& C H A M P A G N E I N D I A FINE Anniversary W I N E FINE Event F I N E T he heat of the Indian general elections and unexpected ‘dry days’ prompted the decision to postpone the celebrations of the thirteenth FINE anniversary of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine, the first and (still) only officially registered wine magazine in India. The Holy Grail The FINE Ambassadors' & High Commissioners' Table At The Connaught Our Thirteenth Anniversary Dinner FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The new date chosen – the 23rd of July – is very special for Rajiv Singhal, co-founder of Group Ritu, and me. Our first entrepreneurial venture was founded on this date in 1993. Since then, the Singhals have been pushing frontiers to bring the finest luxury goods to India. This year, ten embassies and high commissions came on board to present 11 24 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Event PAGE 24 FINE Germany Château Beauregard: 25 FINE Anniversary FINE Bordeaux PAGE 10 The magnificent Leela Palace New Delhi is from the same vintage as FINE and has given us the privilege to call it our home – many of our iconic wine events have been hosted here. Anupam Dasgupta, General Manager and Area Vice President (North India), and Atul Tiwari, Executive Assistant Manager Food & Beverage, consented to host our FINE Anniversary at the award-winning Le Cirque for the third consecutive year. Text: RITU SINGHAL Photos: HUNESH AJMANI & SHIVAM BHATI TEXT: Rajiv Singhal Photos: The Connaught 10 Since the FINE launch in 2011, the wine world has been wowed every year with a unique, one-of its kind presentation of world wines – the FINE Ambassadors’ and High Commissioners’ Table. Participating Heads of Missions of wine-producing countries are keen to present their best-kept treasures and the FINE Table is much sought after – in May-June, when it is normally scheduled, we had some query us on whether they had missed the invitation! Gateway to Pomerol A Red Wine Country? TexT : Dr. Enno Lippold Germany after the Millennium C hâteau Beauregard is a historic 11th century estate in the Pomerol appellation of Bordeaux in south-west France, where wine has been made since the 12th century. It is the first foray into the wine world by the Moulin family of the Galeries Lafayette Group. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 44 45 52 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Bordeaux PAGE 52 FINE Germany The Beauty of the Blend FINE South Africa Where Old World MEeTS New H S TexT & PhoTos: Vidya Narasimhan FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 60 6 FINE South Africa FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA TEXT: Christopher Burr FRSA MW aving been in the wine business for fifty years, I cannot count the number of times I have heard so many people say in a disparaging tone, “But it’s only a blend!” or ask, “Is it a cheap blend…?” For some reason, I know not why, the image of blended wine is that it is somehow inferior to one from a single place or grape varietal or even vintage. Slightly irritated by this perception, I decided to write my dissertation for the Master of Wine Examination, back in 1995, on the importance of blending. I called it ‘The Beauty of the Blend’. outh Africa is often referred to in the wine world as the oldest ‘new world’ country. While most wine in the world is made within the 35° and 55° latitude North or South of the equator, in South Africa it is made between the 32° and 35° latitude South. 60 53 FINE Wine Text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal Photos: Château Beauregard 44 I f you were to go to top wine websites and look for Wines from Germany, you would probably read something like these lines from Justerini & Brooks: Led by theTaristocratic Riesling grape, Germany exT & PhoTos: Vidya Narasimhan produces some of the world’s finest, most age-worthy wines. 61 76 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 76 FINE Wine 77

& C H A M P A G N E FINE Au c t i o n The EconomIcs of Timeless Treasures I N D I A Kamal Malik MS A journey he won’t want to end TEXT: Francesca Bridgewater FCIM T he inaugural Grand Chiswick Wine Auction on 20th November 2024 transcended the realm of rare bottles and delivered a compelling masterclass on the synergy between fine wine and investment. Curated with expertise and flair, Christopher Burr Master of Wine described the event as showcasing ‘some of the most rare and collectible wines ever to come to light’. Beyond the allure of exceptional vintages, the auction highlighted the thriving appeal of wine as both a lucrative asset class for collectors and a window into the fascinating world of heritage and value. 82 Text: Bhisham Mansukhani | Photos: Kamal Malik MS T he brilliant wine professional responsible for the most celebrated achievement in modern India’s wine story is as unassuming as his remarkable journey is ambitious. Certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) in Austria in August 2024, Kamal Malik is India’s first Master Sommelier, and the 278th MS worldwide. He reflects on his journey, its milestones, and the thing that preoccupies him far more than the high vinous honour he has received – the road ahead. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 82 FINE Contents W I N E FINE Personality F I N E 83 FINE Auction 92 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 92 93 FINE Personality Beyond Tariffs FINE Store 9 FINEEDITORIAL Shopper's 100 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Paradise PAGE 100 TexT: Ritu and Rajiv Singhal | PhoTos: Galeries Lafayette A trip to the fashion, culture and gourmet capital of the world would be incomplete without a pilgrimage to this historic landmark: when in Paris, Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussman in the 9th arrondissement is a must-see for all, including celebrities and royalty. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 101 10 FINEEVENT The Holy Grail at The Connaught 24 FINEANNIVERSARY FINE India Thirteenth Anniversary 44 FINEBORDEAUX Château Beauregard: Gateway to Pomerol 52 FINEGERMANY A Red Wine Country? FINE Store FINE Spotlight 60 FINESOUTH AFRICA Where Old World Meets New SPOTLIGHT 108 Dubai FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 108 FINE Spotlight 76 FINEWINE The Beauty of the Blend 82 FINEAUCTION The Economics of Timeless Treasures 92 FINEPERSONALITY Kamal Malik MS 100 FINESTORE Galeries Lafayette: Shopper’s Paradise 108 FINESPOTLIGHT Dubai 109 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 7

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FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Volume 15 Issue 1 Q1 2025 Editor Rajiv Singhal WRITERS Rajiv Singhal is a first-generation entrepreneur who simplifies access to the Indian market for international clients. He studied Economics at Yale, and pioneered activities in the luxury sector. Since 1996, he has helped establish the market for wine and Champagne in India. Appointed Officier de l’Ordre de Mérite Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited Chief Executive Ritu Singhal Editorial Radhika Tandon Contributor Bhisham Mansukhani Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul Photographs Hunesh Ajmani Administration Rakeysh Gautam Cover Photograph Michal Osmenda Editorial Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in T: +91 9810008289 Statutory Information Press Registrar General of India no: DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098 (Luxembourg) and Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite (France), Rajiv is the Ambassador of Champagne to India and a vigneron in the Marne Valley, who loves to challenge himself. Ritu Singhal co-founded Group Ritu, which has diverse interests in publishing, international consulting, representations, luxury brand building, e-learning and private equity, in 1993. Trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay, she set up an annual craft bazaar to empower women artisans as voluntary work and is from the first cohort of wine professionals in India. Ritu is the first Dame Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne from India and up for any gastronomic adventure if it’s vegetarian. Christopher Burr mw has been part of the international wine community since the 1970s. As a student, he spent holidays picking grapes and working in cellars. In 1995, he passed the Master of Wine examination on his first attempt. Prior to founding his own advisory business, he was International Head of Wine at Christie’s. He has received many honours: Fellowship of the Royal Society of Arts, Commandeur du Bontemps, Chevalier du Tastevin... Christopher lives in a Grade II Listed building in Windsor. Francesca Bridgewater fcim is a vibrantly commercial wine and travel writer, brand strategist and judge with over 20 years of experience. European Editor for Andes Wines, she founded Drinks Network, Wine Jobs Global and Volcanic Wines of the World. A Dame de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, core member of Libération Tardive Foundation and British Guild of Travel Writers, she leads World Chardonnay Day. Fran is multilingual and shares her expertise on stage, screen and through her advocacy of ancestral vines. Vidya Narasimhan dip wset is a wine consultant and communicator who has completed many wine certifications with honours but continues to learn. For her, wine appreciation is an adventure – fun, approachable and accessible. She judges wine competitions and is an advisory board member for Be Inclusive Hospitality. An MBA from the Ross School of Business, she worked in management consulting and banking across 3 continents. Vidya loves to travel and eats and drinks local to appreciate culture. Dr Enno Lippold was introduced early in life to the local Riesling by his wine-loving father and became Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001, India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, India. All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing India does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 8 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA a lifelong Riesling devotee. A former Riesling Ambassador worldwide for Deinhard, he came back to Ürzig in 2006 to craft ‘authentic Mosel wines’. As one of Germany’s few true parcellaires, he champions old vines, terroir and ageing time in crafting both still and sparkling wines that encapsulate the true expression of the Mosel. Dr Lippold also grows Spätburgunder in Hessische Bergstrasse. Bhisham Mansukhani calls himself a passionate wines and spirits enthusiast. A graduate of HR College in Mumbai, he started his career in business journalism with a focus on beverages and hospitality. With over 15 years experience, he closely follows India’s growing wine industry and has been invited to wine regions in France, Australia, South Africa, Chile and Argentina. Bhisham enjoys reading, exploring different cuisines and volunteering with student and rural communities.

rotection has been fundamental to the Government of India’s trade policy. For decades, FINE Editorial P Beyond Tariffs I have heard international negotiators lament that their Indian counterparts are tough and discussions on tariff are very reluctant, even while they claim that liberalisation is active work-in-progress and the country is open for business. With the world recognising the power of almost one-sixth of its population domiciled in its fourth largest economy, there is a growing demand for preferential market access in exchange for benefits which include immigration and access to public procurement, which was unimaginable not so long ago. In international trade, ‘tariff ’ is defined as the charge imposed on the movement of goods and services across borders. This innocuous economic term has taken on much weight, as it is most frequently used by the newly inaugurated President of the United States to ‘trump’ the world order. The financial market meltdown on Liberation Day was an ominous sign of the turbulence and uncertainty that may become the new normal. Minister Jaishankar revealed the complexities: “In trade negotiations, nothing is decided till everything is.” The politically sensitive alcohol sector was freed up for the first time ever in the landmark agreement with Australia – wine tariffs were slashed in 2023. Our Prime Minister gifted immediately-effective concessions to bourbon ahead of his visit to the White House. The justminted free trade agreement with the United Kingdom expects to open the door to a very lucrative Scotch whisky market. Ambitious timelines to conclude trade agreements with the European Union and the United States have been set. The strategic intent is loud and clear. These bilateral agreements create the opportunity to localise global best practices. As an architect of the landscape of the market for wine in India, I have long advocated for the need to dismantle significant barriers to entry – inconsistent licensing, discriminatory regulations, multiple tax regimes and delayed processing, for instance – rather than just debate the headlinegrabbing high tariffs. We should learn from others’ experience. The nationalist euphoria that is the call to self-reliance is now seen in more and more countries around the world – but re-inventing the wheel is a futile cost that the world can ill afford. Rajiv Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 9

The Holy Grail TEXT: Rajiv Singhal Photos: The Connaught 10 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Event At The Connaught FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 11

T he officer at the UK Border at London Heathrow raised an incredulous eyebrow when I said my purpose of visit was a wine dinner, before waving me through the barrier. This was an invitation that could not be turned down. An officially endorsed Domaine de la RomanéeConti dinner was being hosted by The Connaught in London at the 3-Michelin-star Hélène Darroze. The few thousand miles I had travelled were my tribute to the holy grail of wine. London was bright with Christmas festivities, and I worked my way past the crowds that had gathered in Carlos Place to revel in the beauty of The Connaught Christmas Tree 2024, created by the British artist Conrad Shawcross RA. At Home in London It is always a delight to be at The Connaught – its warmth is welcoming. I was led to the majestic Maple Room, the wood-panelled private dining area with mirrored ceilings, that had been chosen to pamper the 30 odd fanatics that had signed up. And was greeted with welcoming flutes of Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François 2008, In the presence of Sandeep Bhalla, General Manager of The Connaught, we were welcomed by Daniel Manetti, Global Director of Wine for the Maybourne Group. “We are honoured to host this very special celebration of culinary artistry and vinous 12 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: Rajiv Singhal served from magnum with delectable canapes.

FINE Event Aubert de Villaine excellence. And are incredibly proud to present shareholdings. Bertrand, nephew of the legend these extraordinary wines, all directly provenanced. Aubert de Villaine, and Perrine Fenal, daughter of This evening represents the true culmination of Lalou Bize-Leroy, are now co-managers. Under two years of meticulous planning with Adam Brett- their leadership there remains a fundamental Smith, Managing Director of Corney & Barrow.” respect for tradition allied with a restless pursuit The Legend Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has established itself as a legendary wine estate that represents the pinnacle of unparalleled viticulture and winemaking excellence. Each bottle whispers a different story of terroir, tradition and heritage. On 19 February 1584, the monks of the Priory of of perfection through experimentation, reinvention and innovation. It is a power, without power. It is a weight, without weight. The wines are terrestrial and atmospheric, almost spiritual. Saint Vivant, sited on a hill behind Vosne-Romanée, In 1993, Adam convinced Henry Frédéric Roch sold a tiny vineyard of 1.8 hectares called Cros and Aubert to give them exclusivity for import and des Clous which they had received three centuries distribution for the UK. A relationship between the previously from the Dukes of Burgundy. Thus, the families based on trust, respect and a deep affection Church gifted to the world the piece of land that has been carried forward through the decades. later became known as Romanée-Conti. Wine has been made on this hill for well over 1,000 years. Adam was tasked with the presentation of the wines for the evening. Almost immediately a question Since 1942, the Gaudin de Villaine and Leroy-Roch popped up for him: What defines Domaine de la families have co-owned the vineyard with equal Romanée-Conti? “It is a power, without power. It is a FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 13

weight, without weight. It is a combination of wines producing region in the world. “For the Burgundians, which are sometimes terrestrial, in other words, Pinot Noir is not an end in itself – it is merely a tool rooted in the ground and sometimes atmospheric, to translate the specificities of the particular plot, almost spiritual.” that ‘sense of place’ into your glass.” Sense of Place The Star Chef Adam continued. “Aubert called his six plots – Michelin-star Chef Hélène Darroze personally Échézeaux, Grands-Échézeaux, Romanée-Saint- crafted each dish to harmonize with the exceptional Vivant, Richebourg, La Tâche and Romanée-Conti wine line-up. Hélène was very brief. “It is with a – a magical necklace of vineyards. All within almost spitting distance of each other, all yielding the same grape, all husbanded and viticultured in almost exactly the same way, all harvested around the same time, all made in the same way with only some variations here and there. Yet, six fundamentally different wines.” He emphasized the importance of a ‘sense of place’ and the ‘sense of person’ that is perhaps epitomized wines like the ones we will have this evening. Enjoy this evening, enjoy the dinner, but most of all, enjoy the wines.” Each vintage remains a mystery until the wine is run off into barrels to age. It is like waiting for a child to be born without being able to predict its future. Photo: Rajiv Singhal a bit more in Burgundy than any other great wine lot of humility that we cook this evening in front of 14 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Event Mirko Benzo, Lucas Reynaud-Paligot, Hélène Darroze, Marco Zampese, Daniel Manetti Her menu reflected the philosophy of her eponymous restaurant, where creativity on the plate is focused around one main ingredient that is carefully chosen and sourced directly from the farms. The six courses showcased her approach, elevating the wines and dishes and resulting in harmonious pairings that enhanced and complemented each other perfectly. Excellence in Glass & on Plate The first course – caviar – was paired with the Montrachet Grand Cru 2014. Exquisite ‘Daurikus’ caviar from Thousand Islets Lake was enhanced by delicate dashi jelly, sea herbs, oyster, and sea urchin, creating a symphony of marine flavours. Adam set the tone with a bold claim, “Montrachet is the greatest dry white wine in the world – end of story.” The exceptional minerality and saline qualities of the wine, which displayed remarkable precision and depth, perfectly mirrored the oceanic elements of the dish. The white flower and citrus notes in the wine complemented the briny caviar whilst presenting the structure to balance the rich sea urchin and oyster. Few had tasted this rare wine, but all agreed that it was a wonderful wine to Adam Brett-Smith start with. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 15

parsnip and toasted rice, with Vin Jaune d’Arbois creating complexity. The Grands-Échézeaux Grand Cru 2010 was a classic – pure and fresh – with complex and evolved tertiary aromas that displayed perfect maturity and mirrored the nutty, earthy elements of the dish. The wine’s silky texture and refined tannins complemented the creamy sweetbread without overpowering the subtle flavours. Aubert described the vintage as ‘A Homeric epic’ – the spectre of defeat throughout the growing season was absolutely terrifying. Adam compared the chaotic 2010 to the historic Battle of Marengo – arguably Napoleon’s greatest victory which ‘was lost at 5 o’clock and won back at 7’. In the fourth course, turbot from Newlyn, Cornwall was presented with black pudding, creating an intriguing surf-and-turf element, balanced by topinambur (Jerusalem artichoke) and bright sorrel with final touches of Jerez vinegar. The RomanéeSt-Vivant Grand Cru 2005 showed off its two Next up, the typical Cévennes onion from France was highlighted by the subtle smokiness of lomo ibérico and brightened by lemon thyme. The VosneRomanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 2019, in the prime of its youth, showcased vibrant red fruit and subtle earthiness that harmonized beautifully with the sweetness of the caramelized onion. The fresh acidity of the wine cut through the rich ibérico while its delicate structure complemented the dish’s refined flavours. A wine of profundity and power that was subliminally graceful. In the third course, delicate veal sweetbread from Corrèze in France was complemented by earthy 16 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

decades of maturity, with the power to stand up to the black pudding and an elegance that deferred FINE Event to the delicate turbot. The wine’s complex bouquet enhanced the dish’s umami elements while its acidity complemented the Jerez. “Little by little the terroir is taking over. These wines detest the imprisonment of bottling.” Aubert was obsessed about upping this ‘black sheep’ – which he did. It is compressed, clenched, concentrated yet captivating and is an easy pick, blind. For the mains, organic venison Wellington from Rhug Estate Organic Farm in the north of Wales was enriched with smoked eel, balanced by sweet-tart quince and earthy beetroot and topped with poivrade jus. This perfectly crafted dish was elevated by spectacular wines: the Richebourg Grand Cru 2011 brought power and structure to match the venison. ‘General’ Aubert admitted that the quality was born a bit by luck. Of the 46 vintages that he had worked on till 2011, this was THE most difficult. Adam described this wine as Porthos, one of the Three Musketeers: he swaggers, he’s big, he's got slash velvet, he's rich, he's sort of chunky – he is always Richebourg. A guest chimed in, “I sense the density from the soil – on the nose and on the palate too.” The La Tâche Grand Cru Monopole 2006 added layers of complexity with its developed bouquet and refined tannins. A little bit more available and hence perhaps the best known and highly prized – corroborated by the gasps in the room when La Tâche was presented. It is terrestrial with a serenity and calmness about it. Adam likened it to David Gower, an ultra-elegant and graceful English left FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 17

ratte potato, puntarelle and tardive for the final course. It was liberally topped with Périgord black truffle by Hélène at the table. The wine showed very youthful with extraordinary complexity and finesse that paired beautifully with the rich cheese and earthy truffle. Its perfect balance of power and elegance created a harmonious finale to the savoury courses. Adam’s fittingly described the wine. “Unearthly – seemingly atmospheric and ethereal – is perhaps an inadequate word for this wine. An extraordinarily rare perfume grows in power even as you run out of breath. The opulent palate is so light, supple and delicate – the wine collates the very greatest qualities of all Grand Crus and takes them weightlessly to heaven.” The evening concluded with Marc de Bourgogne 2000, offering a traditional and elegant finish to this exceptional meal while providing a historical perspective. hander, whose quality is inborn, not of training A Glorious Selection or coaching. Some people thought it was almost The wines for the evening were thoughtfully curated. flawless. Daniel very carefully chose the wines – all classified As La Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 2015 was being poured, Adam urged us. “This is the greatest wine in the line-up and is being presented last after we have enjoyed so many different wines. Please taste it in its absolute purity – by itself, in isolation, without anything.” Adam’s eloquent comments and stunning insights into wines that have garnered so much respect around the world, had been so informative and entertaining, that his suggestion was met with instant acceptance. The Connaught wine program is a crown jewel and a living library of vinous history that is internationally sought after. 18 Grand Crus – in partnership with the team at Corney & Barrow, to showcase the breadth and depth of the portfolio in its complete glory. Each one presented in the line-up had an element of rarity or was much looked forward to. Established vintages like 2010 were balanced with more nuanced years such as 2006, each chosen to demonstrate different facets of their mastery. The very rare Vosne-Romanée could be presented because it was bought on release and cellared by The Connaught. For some obsessed by ratings, there can be created a kind of rising scale of these wines (which is a very personal thing) that in a sense may be right. But, all of these wines are equal in the eyes of god. Wine Legacy The Connaught wine program is a crown jewel – The creamy Vacherin Mont d'Or cheese from Jura a legacy of excellence that represents decades of Vaudois in Switzerland was complemented by the dedication and expertise and where exceptional FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

service and bespoke experiences in an atmosphere of understated luxury remain paramount. There FINE Event are over 100,000 bottles of 3,500 different labels, with an estimated value north of £6 million. A substantial part remains in bond, ensuring continued availability of precious vintages. This is not just a meticulously curated collection of bottles but a living library of vinous history for which The Connaught is recognised internationally as a leading wine destination of the world. The dinner was conceived in response to numerous requests from distinguished guests and fine wine aficionados, who share an appreciation for special and rare wines and sought an experience that would be both unique and memorable. The decision to present Domaine de la Romanée-Conti at the endof-the-year wine dinner was particularly fitting, as these wines have consistently been among the most sought-after and best-selling selections – there are more than 1,000 bottles from this prestigious producer in the cellar. This very special evening was delivered with clinical precision by Head of Wine Lucas ReynaudPaligot and Executive Chef Marco Zampese with their teams. The pouring (and re-pouring) was quite generous and went through 24 bottles of wine of astronomical value along with some magnums of Champagne. Though we had been invited to discuss, criticise, praise or opine about the wines, we ended up mostly listening and being charmed. It turned out to be a sit-down tutored masterclass of enormous depth – each wine was commented on, and the backstory gave some exceptional insights, leaving those at the table in awe. Everyone left with a lasting memory – a book that was signed by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti codirectors with the dinner’s date to commemorate this historic occasion – and a favourite wine that had impressed them the most from the to-die-for line up. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 19

Tasting Notes MONTRACHET 2014 DRC owns only 67 ares and 59 centiares of Le Montrachet divided into three plots. The first parcel, acquired in 1963, was the first to be planted with Chardonnay. The second plot was purchased in 1965, and the adjoining third plot, acquired in 1980. The average age of the vines is 60 years, with the oldest being planted between 1936-1938. Aubert described this wine with the statement: “Le Montrachet has a feminine caress”. Adam added, “Six months after bottling, it is beautiful and 25 years later, it is still beautiful.” VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU CUVÉE DUVAULT-BLOCHET 2019 In the stellar vintage of 1999, the Henry Frédéric and Aubert couldn’t bear the thought of selling anonymously the surpluses from the grand crus. An exceptional decision was taken to bottle these declassified grands crus as Vosne-Romanée that would be only made in years when exceptional yields permit. It was named after Jaques-Marie Duvault-Blochet, the de Villaine family's ancestor, who purchased the Domaine in 1869. It is rarely offered, and this contributes to its ‘cult’ reputation. GRANDS ÉCHÉZEAUX 2010 Originally larger than Les Échézeaux du Dessus, it belonged to the Abbey of Citeaux for centuries. After the Revolution, the influential Marey family owned it. DRC cultivates about 3.5 hectares, lying directly east to the lieux-dits of Echézeaux du Dessus and Les Poulaillères, where it borders Clos de Vougeot to the west. “It's no coincidence that we simply call it Le Grand,” said Aubert. ROMANÉE-ST-VIVANT 2005 The name Romanée-St-Vivant was first used in a document in 1765. It belonged to the Saint-Vivant de Vergy monastery who received this stunning gift from Alix de Vergi and christened it Le Cloux de St-Vivant. After confiscation in the Revolution, it was purchased in 1791 by Nicholas-Joseph Marey and CharlotteEmilie Monge. Acquired outright by DRC in 1988, the MareyMonge name is still honoured on the label. It lies at the bottom of the slope, beneath Richebourg and Romanée-Conti, adjacent to the Estate. It is feline, insinuating, atmospheric. 20 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

RICHEBOURG 2011 FINE Event The Abbey of Citeaux was the main landlord for Les Richebourgs climat. It sits right next to La Romanée-Conti and across the road from Romanée-St-Vivant. There are two main lieux-dits within Richebourg, ‘Les Richebourgs’, of which DRC has 2.51 hectare, and ‘Véroilles’, where they have just under 1 hectare. The average age of the vines is 50 years old. Something exotically spiced in its aroma, and quite the flamboyant wine. Richebourg has a suggestive name, generous structure and wealth of fruit, with unbelievable breadth and robust strength. LA TÂCHE MONOPOLE 2006 La Tâche is the furthest up the Côte, rising just above Richebourg to the west. DRC owners traded many of their holdings to purchase this iconic vineyard at an auction held on 31 August 1933. Aubert said, “La Tâche can be quite homogenous, but that's La Tâche; it always gives us great wines.” The average age of the vines is around 60 years. In 2011, part of the vineyard was replanted with young sprigs from the La Romanée-Conti vineyard. It is a monopole – the entirety of the vineyard is owned. It's renowned for its intensity and rusticity with a spectrum of aromas including floral, red fruit, tea, tobacco, spices and mocha. ROMANÉE-CONTI MONOPOLE 2015 The 'Pearl of Burgundy’ is gracious, delicate and as soft as silk. Originally, the vineyard was called Le Clux des Cinq Journaux and was part of Les Cloux de Saint-Vivant. While the name RomanéeConti became famous, the current site was only officially confirmed in 1835. It is the second of the two monopoles. The vineyard was mostly replanted in 1947 and 1948 from a massal selection from La Tâche, and three-quarters of the vineyard is still made up with those plantings, resulting in an average vine age of around 70 years. As difficult to get in the 17th century as it is now! MARC DE BOURGOGNE 2000 This is a product of the distillation of the marcs de raisins – the cake of fermented pulp after pressing of the estate’s grapes. The distillate is aged for at least 15 years in oak vats from Tronçais. Extremely complex with exceptional finesse and roundness. Intense floral aromas and earthy mushrooms alongwith apricots and honey that coat the palate. The 45% vol gives a long and lingering finish. Extremely small production, with only about 600-800 bottles made in the years that it is produced. Bottled on 7 December 2017. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 21

The FINE Ambassadors' & High Commissioners' Table Our Thirteenth Anniversary Dinner Text: RITU SINGHAL Photos: HUNESH AJMANI & SHIVAM BHATI 24 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Anniversary T he heat of the Indian general elections and unexpected ‘dry days’ prompted the decision to postpone the celebrations of the thirteenth FINE anniversary of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine, the first and (still) only officially registered wine magazine in India. Since the FINE launch in 2011, the wine world has been wowed every year with a unique, one-of its kind presentation of world wines – the FINE Ambassadors’ and High Commissioners’ Table. Participating Heads of Missions of wine-producing countries are keen to present their best-kept treasures and the FINE Table is much sought after – in May-June, when it is normally scheduled, we had some query us on whether they had missed the invitation! The magnificent Leela Palace New Delhi is from the same vintage as FINE and has given us the privilege to call it our home – many of our iconic wine events have been hosted here. Anupam Dasgupta, General Manager and Area Vice President (North India), and Atul Tiwari, Executive Assistant Manager Food & Beverage, consented to host our FINE Anniversary at the award-winning Le Cirque for the third consecutive year. The new date chosen – the 23rd of July – is very special for Rajiv Singhal, co-founder of Group Ritu, and me. Our first entrepreneurial venture was founded on this date in 1993. Since then, the Singhals have been pushing frontiers to bring the finest luxury goods to India. This year, ten embassies and high commissions came on board to present FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 25

a wine that they had so carefully selected for this occasion. Australia, Champagne and Portugal maintained their perfect attendance record at every FINE Table – eleven on eleven. They were joined by Austria, Chile, France, Great Britain, Hungary, Luxembourg and New Zealand. Group Ritu has engaged with each of these countries in a pioneering activity and we share a special bond. Ten wines were collated – one sparkling, three white, five red, one fortified – and with Beverage Manager Manish Kumar and Sommelier Aman Pandey, Rajiv finalised six wine flights to pair with the five-course menu, covering signature dishes meticulously chosen by Executive Chef Karan Thakur and Sous Chef Vashisht. That evening, access to the Le Cirque floor was restricted for our FINE guests only. Each guest was handed their designated table card by the hostess at the welcome desk before being ushered into the Cellar Room, designated for the Reception. Guests had customary photographs taken against a larger-than-life image of the cover of the FINE 26 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Wine & Champagne India magazine on the photo-wall. Endless platters of delicious, refreshing and artistically plated canapés – Chicken Liver Pate & Butter Brioche Bun; Shrimp Arancini with Lime Aioli & Caper Flower; Goat Cheese & California Grapes Lollipop; and Pachino Tomatoes &

FINE Anniversary Presenting the first wine for the evening – the Magerl Gelber Muskateller 2020, H.E. Katharina Weiser, Ambassador of Austria, was delighted that she had pole position. “It could be an advantage. This single varietal wine is actually my personal favourite – it is from a family winery that has been making wine for the last 200 years in the heart of Lower Austria, in Fels am Wagram, north of the Danube and not far from Vienna.” She shared more about how the rare grape varietal, Gerber Muskateller, had historically originated in the Mediterranean and contributed to only 3% of Austrian wine. The other wine was Pannonhalmi Foapatsag Hemina 2021 from neighbouring Hungary. Dr Mariann Erdo, Cultural Counsellor of the Embassy of Hungary, thanked FINE for lending a platform so that Hungarian wines could be showcased. “I chose this wine because of its historic connect. The Pannonhalma Abbey was built as the first Hungarian Benedictine monastery in 996, at which time the tradition of wine-making was important for the monks. In the years following WWII, the communists confiscated many wine assets. In 1996, exactly 1,000 years after its founding, the abbey was declared a UNESCO world heritage site. In 2000, Bocconcini Crostini – were served. Along with glasses of this year’s ‘Reception’ wines – an elegant white from Austria and a dry red from Hungary. When the glass ‘bell’ rang, it was time for me as the Chief Executive of FINE to officially open the proceedings. “On this special date for Rajiv and me, I will indulge you in a walk down memory lane to mark the many firsts specifically in the wine and Champagne (and luxury) space to our credit in notably difficult conditions – all because of the unstinted support of friends like you. It has been very satisfying to be able to change perceptions around India in the last three decades. This evening, please hold on to your wine glasses and have fun as we travel through many countries to discover the treasures that have been shared by our friends.” I extended a special thanks to the Leela Palace New Delhi team, where yet another FINE story was being written. Anupam was delighted to host this landmark dinner at his Palace and welcomed everyone, “Ritu & Rajiv are hosts extraordinaire and always bring something amazing to our tables. Greeks and Romans forefathers said in vino veritas – in wine lies the truth.” FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 27

Table obliges me to follow her advice and offer the quintessential celebration drink. I congratulate the FINE team for putting together FINE Wine & Champagne India – a truly world class publication that has been turning many heads in the world of wine.” Champagne was offered with the first course Peruvian Asparagus & Buffalo Burratina | Pea Emulsion | Cherry Tomatoes. the monastery repurchased their confiscated vineyards and followed their motto ‘pray and work’ to make a very good wine from a 20-year-old vineyard that is worthy of being presented at this FINE evening.” At the appointed hour for the sit-down, the doors of the grand wood-panelled dining room of Le Cirque opened. The tables, set up in a bespoke FINE formation, took their names from the Le Cirque restaurant locations around the world – New York, Las Vegas, Dubai, New Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru. Guests were invited to take their preassigned seats. As we sat down, we raised a toast with Champagne to this FINE evening. This year again, I had the pleasure of raiding the cellars of Rajiv, who is also the Ambassador of Champagne to India since 2006, and pulled out Champagne Charles de Cazanove Tête de Cuvée Brut. This house was founded in 1811 and was given a new lease of life when it was acquired by the Rapeneau family around the turn of the millennium. Rajiv quoted the famous Lily Bollinger, “When I have company, I consider it obligatory to share Champagne – and this FINE 28 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The second course Ravioli Stuffed with Rock Lobster | Rock Lobster Bisque | Zucchini Ragout | Pachino Tomatoes (Casoncelli Stuffed with Potato & Mushroom Fricasse | Zucchini Velouté | Onion Chips | Truffle Essence was the vegetarian option) accompanied our next flight of two white wines from Luxembourg and the United Kingdom. H.E. Peggy Frantzen, Ambassador of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, selected the very aromatic Domaine de l'Etat Gewurztraminer 2022. Congratulating FINE for the evening, she shared, “Vineyards in Luxembourg on the upper banks of the Mosel River. The Gewurztraminer grape was introduced in the seventies and thrives here – the harsh northern continental climate is balanced by the reflection of the sun in the river waters.”

The next course of Poulet Cacciatore & Parmesan Riso | Wilted Peppers | Olives Dust (Symphony of Riso | Extra Virgin Olive Oil for the vegetarians) was served with the first flight of reds from either side of the Pacific Ocean – from New Zealand and Chile. H.E. Patrick John Rata, High Commissioner of New Zealand, had only recently presented credentials to the Hon’ble President of India when he FINE Anniversary Christina Scott, Deputy British High Commissioner, and Anna Shotbolt, Deputy Trade Commissioner South Asia, defended the Bolney Estate Lychgate Bacchus 2021 from Sussex. “Imagine drinking this earthy wine when eating fish and chips on the pier in Brighton, while enjoying the crisp air and the seaside during the British summer… The one upside to climate change is that the wines from the UK are getting better and better by the year. Our wine exports are growing rapidly at around 70% in the last few years and so that there is plenty, the British wine growers are planting another 75% of our existing vineyards.” accepted our invitation to present a New Zealand wine. He selected the Babich Syrah Hawkes Bay 2022 from the North Island for what he described as the Olympics of wine in India. “My country is very proud of the reputation we have garnered, even if our production is a tiny 1% of the global production of wine. Our wine makers emphasise innovation and sustainability.” The other red wine on this flight was from the sliver-shaped country in the far south-west. H.E. Juan Rolando Angulo Monsalve, Ambassador of Chile, was kind with his words. “Thank you very much Ritu and Rajiv, for this unique opportunity to present our wines to wine lovers, who seem to be very willing to try and explore, and for all your efforts to promote wine in India in the last three decades – because the market in the future is here.” Presenting the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 from the Colchagua Valley, south of Santiago, he added. “For five centuries, wine in Chile was made by the church for the mass. Chile remained phylloxera-free, and the ungrafted vines, bound by the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, bear fruit in climatic conditions that mirror FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 29

the Mediterranean with strong diurnal temperature variation.” It was time for the main course of New Zealand Lamb Lion | Summer Peas | Mushroom & Pea Tartlet | Caponata (Pumpkin & Goat Cheese Croustaillant | Maple Jus | Spicy Granola for the vegetarians). Two bold reds were chosen from Australia and France – both of whom often face off as the main course wines at the FINE Table. H.E. Philip Green, High Commissioner of Australia and Dr Monica Kennedy, Minister Commercial and Head of Austrade South Asia presented the Metala William Formby Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 from the Langhorne Creek in South Australia – a wine that is a beneficiary of the concessions under the landmark India-Australia Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement that came into force in December 2022. H.E. Philip congratulated us, “Bravo Rajiv and Ritu, for what you do for wine in India, with such style and sophistication.” He reminded the room that Australians like it simple. “In our parlance, this is a cab sav. Metala was founded at the end of the 19th century by William Formby. This wine is made in his honour by his great great grandson, Guy Adams. It has a wonderful bouquet and is rich and opulent – even if not as much as a recent Indian wedding!” Damien Syed, Deputy Ambassador of France, rose to present the Chateau Pavillon Beauregard Lalande de Pomerol 2020 that was very kindly offered by the Houzé family of Galeries Lafayette, who are the co-owners with the Cathiard family of Château Smith Haut Lafitte. “The French are reputed to be pretentious. I will not say that French wines are the best ones in the world – it’s true! This wine is from a highly reputed appellation in Bordeaux, which has a long connect with India and is well known here. I will let you judge.” We approached the final wine of the line-up that evening. It was served with the dessert – Exotique Savarin | Yeast Cake | Spiced Pineapple Rum | Passion Fruit Gel | Vanilla Crème. H.E. João Manuel Mendes Ribeiro de Almeida, Ambassador of Portugal presented the Quinta do Noval Porto Late Bottle Vintage 2016. “Quinta do Noval, one of the most traditional Port houses, was founded in 1715 in the UNESCO World Heritage Douro Valley – which also is a fantastic tourist destination. 30 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Anniversary Here, the landscapes are unique – the terraced vineyards on the deep slopes plunge into the river. In these challenging conditions, the wines produced are of the highest quality.” Anupam’s team led by Ashish Arora, Director of Food & Beverage, made sure that the bar set in the previous years was raised. Chef Karan had shared his belief that food should speak for itself and the chefs brought the planning to reality. I believe that the entire meal defended itself extremely well. All the wines were handled with utmost care by Manish and Aman, appearing in the right glasses bearing the flags of each country, in the right measure, in the right sequence and at the right time. Post-dinner, the entire team of heroes from the kitchen, the cellar and the floor – who were key to allowing us to enjoy what we had enjoyed – proudly took their well-deserved bows. We learnt that Le Cirque would be under renovation during the summer of 2025. Rajiv and I and many friends of FINE have framed delightful memories of some iconic events here. I thanked all the participating Ambassadors and High Commissioners for their continued participation and support to make this annual wine showcase a success. Next year, the FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table will have a new address, and we are delighted that many have pledged to join us again. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 31

The Fine Ambassadors and High Commissioners 32 Champagne Rajiv Singhal & Fine Ritu Singhal Leela Hotels Anupam Dasgupta Australia Susan Marks & Philip Green Portugal João Ribeiro de Almeida FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Anniversary Luxembourg Peggy Frantzen Austria Katharina Wieser & Michael Wieser-Much Chile Jorge Loyola & Juan Angulo New Zealand Patrick John Rata FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 37

38 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA France Damien Syed United Kingdom Anna Shotbolt & Christina Scott Hungary Mariann Erdő Australia Lawrence Pratchett & Monica Kennedy

FINE Anniversary Portugal Claudia Matias Estonia Marje Luup UN Sarah Watterson & Shombi Sharp Finland Pia Kaikonen & Kimmo Lähdevirta FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 39

The Fine Ambassadors a 36 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Anniversary and High Commissioners FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 37

Tasting Notes Pannonhalmi Foapatsag Hemina 2021 Magerl Gelber Muskateller 2020 Wagram, Austria. Still white. 100% Gelber Muskateller. Light yellow. Citrusy. Hints of hay. Burst of flavours. Apricot. Melon. Balanced acidity. Finish: Lean. Lingering. Inside Information: This family business draws on 200 years of experience in winemaking. Traditions are maintained whilst new ideas are implemented to evolve with the times. The winemaking philosophy includes doing everything possible to bring the special climatic and geological conditions into the glass. Wines are matured in the classic way to ensure great drinking pleasure even when held onto for some years. Certified sustainable since 2017, a strong foundation towards organic viticulture has already been laid. The family is committed to its responsibility towards nature and the future generations. In a Nutshell: Youthful radiance. Region: Pannonhalma, Hungary. Style: Still red. Varietal: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. Appearance: Dark ruby red. Nose: Fruity. Spicy. A little woody. Palate: Lush. Rich blackberries coat fine tannins. Finish: Structured. Substantial. Inside Information: A PDO designated wine from an ancient Benedictine monastery, this wine originates from the brown woodland soil on the south slopes of the Babszökő Vineyard that was planted in 2003 with a density of 5,210 vines per hectare. The grapes were harvested in the first fortnight of October. After destemming and selection through the optical sorting machine, the grapes were cold macerated in 60 hl chilled stainless-steel tanks and then fermented in controlled conditions. Malolactic fermentation was completed. The Bordeaux blend wine was aged for eight months in Hungarian oak that had been used several times. 36,000 bottles were produced. In a Nutshell: Flavours steeped in history. Champagne Charles de Cazanove Tête de Cuvée Domaine de l'Etat Gewurztraminer 2022 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Palate: Region: Reims, Champagne, France. Style: Sparkling white. Varietal: 45% Pinot Noir, 38% Meunier, 17% Chardonnay, 37% reserve wines. Dosage: 10 g/l. Appearance: Light gold. Nose: Green apple. Peach. Brioche. Palate: Lovely freshness. Well-balanced. Finish: Precise. Fine. Inside Information: Charles Gabriel, a descendant of a master glassmaker, founded Cazanove in 1811 and named it in tribute to his grandfather. His family made their brand the choice of presidents of the Third French Republic and Edward VII of the United Kingdom. Post WWII, the family had to cede control in a series of takeovers. Anchored in Reims’ historic quarter, the house was acquired in 2004 by the Rapeneau family, winegrowers and landowners in Champagne since 1901. The last two decades have marked the renaissance of the brand – which is a symbol of family and passion. In a Nutshell: Chic elegance. Charming. 40 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Mosel, Luxembourg. Still white. 100% Gewurztraminer. Bright yellow. Aromatic. Pronounced blossom. Sweet spice. Palate: Explosive lychee. Vanilla. Rose petal. Finish: Long. Dry. Inside Information: The people, tradition and terroir shape the wines of Luxembourg, which is well known for its quality premium offerings that demonstrate a unique character. This national treasure is protected by the regulatory certification – ‘Appellation d’Origine Protégée Moselle Luxembourgeoise’. The framework for this indication of origin was created by the Institut viti-vinicole established in 1925 under the aegis of the State. The Domaine de l’Etat are its research vineyards, which translate theory into practise as the highest quality standards are set. The pink Gewurztraminer grape was introduced in Luxembourg in the seventies and thrives on the banks of the Mosel River. In a Nutshell: Perfume in your glass.

The Bolney Estate Lychgate Bacchus 2021 Babich Syrah Hawkes Bay 2022 Sussex, United Kingdom. Still white. 100% Bacchus. Pale gold. Granny Smith apples. Elderflower. Freshly cut grass. Palate: Ripe grapefruit. Minerally. Finish: Clean. Crisp. Light bodied. Inside Information: Rodney and Janet, who shared a passion for wine, had the idea to run a vineyard of their own on British soil. They founded Bolney Estate in 1972 in the warmer southern county of Sussex, where the white cliffs stretch a long way and the gulf stream influences are important. Their daughter, Sam, now runs the estate and produces award winning wines with sustainable practices that present high quality and show the future of English winemaking. Named after the Roman god of agriculture, wine and fertility, Bacchus is now the third most grown grape in the England. In a Nutshell: Subtle sophistication. Region: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. Style: Still red. Varietal: 100% Syrah. Appearance: Ruby red. Nose: Light. Floral. Touch of pepper. Palate: Plum. Raspberry. Earthy. Spicy. Finish: Voluminous. Young tannins. Inside Information: This wine is from the estateowned and certified sustainable vineyards in the Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa Triangle in Hawke’s Bay on the North Island. Founder Josip Babich was born in 1985 in Dalmatia (now Croatia). He emigrated to New Zealand at the age of 14 and made his first barrel of wine at the age of 21. The Babich family have made wine since, making them the most experienced family-owned winery. Three generations of innovation, achievement and winemaking excellence are spread across three regions. “It’s not just our passion, our livelihoods and our future. It’s our way of life.” In a Nutshell: Result of hard work and ingenuity. Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Metala William Formby Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Region: Colchagua Valley, Chile. Style: Still red. Varietal: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Appearance: Deep ruby red. Nose: Blackberry. Leather. Traces of cayenne pepper. Palate: Complex. Ripe fig. Dark chocolate. Vanilla. Finish: Soft structure. Promising tannins. Inside Information: Montes was born out of a bold vision to elevate wines from Chile. Since 1988, mastery and excellence has guided every step, blending tradition and innovation to create wines that express their origin and their land, with sophistication and deep respect. The winery in Apalta is a sanctuary designed according to the principles of feng shui. Every space enhances the balance and connection with its surroundings and energy flows in harmony with nature. In the barrel room, Gregorian chants resonate day and night, creating a serenity that elevates the expression of the wines. Viña Montes is an experience. In a Nutshell: Subtle sensation. Region: Langhorne Creek, South Australia, Australia. Style: Still red. Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Appearance: Dense garnet red. Nose: Intense bouquet. Plum. Hint of eucalyptus and liquorice. Palate: Bold. Full-bodied. Blackberry. Tobacco. Textured soft tannins Finish: Firm. Persistent. Inside Information: Metala stands as a beacon amongst the great vineyards of Langhorne Creek. In 1891, founder George Formby planted 21 rows of Shiraz and 14 rows of Cabernet Sauvignon on the flood plains of the Bremer River, upon rich alluvial soils lined with river red-gum. The plantings were on single wire trellises – a cutting edge viticultural practice for that time. Most of those original vines still bear fruit and are carefully hand pruned and harvested. Winemaker Brian Dolan sketched out the Metala label in 1959 and its 1961 vintage won the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show. In a Nutshell: Explosion of historic fruit. Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: FINE Anniversary Fine India Thirteenth Anniversary FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 41

Tasting Notes Chateau Pavillon Beauregard Lalande de Pomerol 2020 Region: Lalande de Pomerol, Bordeaux, France. Style: Still red. Varietal: 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Appearance: Deep ruby red. Nose: Vibrant. Strawberry. Vanilla. Palate: Lush. Black cherry. Rounded tannins. Trace of mint. Finish: Memorable. Inside Information: Château Pavillon Beauregard has taken advantage of the technical enhancements made by the Moulin and Cathiard families. Since 2015, it has been vinified in the exceptional vat room Château Beauregard in Pomerol. The eight-hectare vineyard in Néac is planted on a clay-gravel plateau with hardpan subsoil containing iron deposits. The vineyard was hand harvested in September. Alcoholic fermentation was controlled at around 26°C with short pumpovers (2-4 times a day). The Merlot was vatted for three weeks and the Cabernet Franc for two weeks. Ageing was in French oak barrels (20% new) for 14 months. In a Nutshell: L’art de vivre à la française. 42 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Quinta do Noval Porto Late Bottle Vintage 2016 Region: Douro Valley, Portugal. Style: Fortified red. Varietal: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão and Sousão. Appearance: Purple red. Nose: Fragrant. Red currant. Strawberry jam. Toasty. Palate: Well structured. Meaty. Spicy. Hint of balsamic. Finish: Concentrated. Long. Inside Information: Quinta do Noval first appeared in land registries in 1715. In 1894, it was acquired by António José da Silva, a port shipper, whose son-in-law, Luiz Vasconcelos Porto, authored a programme of innovations to transform the terraces. Since 1993, Noval is in the AXA Millésimes portfolio and became the first port maker to consolidate all activities in the Douro Valley. Drawing on its 192 hectares of vineyards, the wines have unique complexity and depth. Grapes are trodden by foot and the must macerated in lagares, traditional stone vats. The LBV is matured for four years in tonéis, large wooden casks. In a Nutshell: The brilliance of indigenous grapes.

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FINE Bordeaux Château Beauregard: Gateway to Pomerol Text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal Photos: Château Beauregard C hâteau Beauregard is a historic 11th century estate in the Pomerol appellation of Bordeaux in south-west France, where wine has been made since the 12th century. It is the first foray into the wine world by the Moulin family of the Galeries Lafayette Group. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 45

At Château Beauregard, we were warmly welcomed by Augustin Belloy, General Manager of the family-owned Motier Domaines, the arm that manages the Group’s wine and real estate business. Augustin is the son-in-law of Chairman Philippe Houzé and grandson-in-law of Ginette Moulin and is responsible for all the Châteaux now owned by the Group in Pomerol. We walked up the gravel path set within neatly manicured greens with a central water body, leading to the two-storied Château dating back to Napoleon’s reign. It was redesigned in the early 18th century by a student of Victor Louis, the architect of Bordeaux’s Grand Théâtre, in the then trending architectural style of Gironde chartreuse. The Château opens onto a terrace with two dovecotes overlooking a moat fed by a freshwater brook. Its centuriesold façade has been kept intact, but the interiors have been refurbished to include five luxury bedrooms on the first level, each overlooking the beautiful gardens spread over a hectare with the vineyards around it. “Our aim is to restore the prestige of the vineyard and reveal the charm of the estate. Drawing on our values of sharing, tradition and transmission, we are committed to develop our estates and, in so doing, spread l’art de vivre à la française” Over a coffee at the rustic dining table, Augustin told us about his first visit to this estate on a sunny day in April 2014. “It was a love at first sight,” he said. The Moulins’ long-standing friendship with the Cathiard family, noted winemakers and owners of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte in Bordeaux, led to a partnership in which together, they acquired Château Beauregard (17.5 hectares) and Château Pavillon 46 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Franc. Vincent told us, “In Pomerol country, the early-ripening Moulin's themselves acquired Château Petit-Village (10.5 Merlot is the king. Eight years ago, I planted some Cabernet hectares) in Pomerol. Sauvignon on a hectare of gravel soil to create an option for a He went on to share a bit of the rich history of Château B d. little more complexity with more acidity and freshness – just The origins of the present estate date back to the 11th century, to have around 5% in the blend in a few years time.” when the Order of the Knights of the Hospital of Saint John The age of the vines is 35 years on average. At Château of Jerusalem was active in the Pomerol region. Beauregard’s emblematic Templar Cross traces its origins to these knights. They owned a small manor and were already farming these lands. The manor was acquired by the Beauregard family, and five centuries later they built their first house which was replaced by the present structure a few centuries later. Gradually, around the middle of the 18th century, the farmlands across the property were completely transformed into vineyards. Vincent Priou, General Manager of Château Beauregard, took the time to join us in the midst of marshalling his team of FINE Bordeaux Beauregard (8 hectares) in Lalande de Pomerol. In 2020, the Beauregard, the traditional ploughing of soils is complemented by employing horses for the youngest plots – it is an attempt to preserve time-honoured practices and retain the unique character of the vineyards as differentiated from more modern, mechanized vineyards. Manual harvesting allows for optimal ripening for each lot. All these factors contribute to the complexity, richness and overall quality of the wines produced. Each parcel is grown and tended individually according to 30 for the many activities that make up the harvest period. Augustin and Vincent both cautioned, “Normally, we don’t take any visitors during the harvest period. It is very busy here and we don’t want any accidents. But, you will be very careful and alert.” Terroir Château Beauregard’s vineyards and winery lie north-east of Libourne in the Pomerol appellation, which despite being one of the smallest appellations in Bordeaux (just 800 hectares of vineyards), is among the most prestigious. Beauregard’s vineyards are spread across 35 parcels on the south-eastern edge of the famed iron-rich soil plateau of Pomerol – crasse de fer – and are among the larger holdings in the appellation. It is in a great neighbourhood with renowned neighbours – Petrus, Le Pin, L’Evangile, Lafleur, Gazin, Vieux Château Certan… The soils are predominantly gravel, clay and sandy and the slightly warmer subsoil enhances the ripening of the grapes. of almost 9,200 vines per hectare, higher than the norm in Pomerol, to increase the competition between the vines so that they are forced to explore all soils. The mix of grapes planted is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Photo: Rajiv Singhal In the last decade, the vineyards have been planted at a density FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 47

their specificities. The plots are mapped to identify the subtle A conveyor belt takes the berries through mechanised sorting physio-chemical differences in the soils. This attention to detail lines. Advanced laser optical densiometric machines have been ensures that each parcel is cultivated and managed according programmed to select only ripe berries with optimal density to its specific needs, further enhancing the quality and typicity and good maturity. Those berries that don’t have the intensity of the wines. or colour required are ejected. At the end of this very intense The decision to use environment-friendly inputs is supported sorting, a manual check is done to ensure that no below-par by the owner families, who are sensitive to environmental berries or unwanted elements erroneously get past the eagle concerns and consumer expectations. Organic viticulture and eye of the picker. Vincent told us, “To maintain the quality of vinification has been embraced since 2009. Different seeds the wine, sorting is very important for us so that we only have are used to create biological diversity. The flora and fauna on nice ripe berries and generous maturity.” vine pests naturally. Tree canopies also serve the purpose of keeping the grapes cool. The vines are exposed to sunlight with good ventilation and well looked after. Balanced crop loads are enforced – all to be able to get the very best fruit that truly reflects the terroir. As we stepped out into the vineyards, the changing colour of the sky and the looming threat of rain kept Vincent somewhat distracted on his portable. He explained, “I have the forecast for the next 30 minutes and it is usually very accurate. So, our actions are far more precise than in the times when we had to stop harvest because of an unexpected shower.” Winemaking Philosophy As it was harvest time, the machine motors were whirring and all processes were being executed. We didn’t have to depend on what we were told – we could observe the meticulous vinification being followed at Château Beauregard. The hand-harvested grapes are collected in 10 kilogram plastic bins that are branded Château Beauregard so as to ease identification. These bins are brought on trolleys to the large high ceiling reception areas at the winery. These new reception areas with lots of natural light have a dual purpose – during the year when the winery is less busy, they serve as a perfect venue to host banquets for upto 200 guests. A lot of emphasis has been put on the grape handling – the reception and sorting – which is done by a combination of manual and mechanised methods. After going through a high frequency de-stemmer, the berries are sorted at different levels, shaking off excess light ones and draining off any juice. 48 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA In winemaking, tradition is balanced with a modern outlook. The beautifully ripe and mature berries are put into specially designed mobile trolleys that hold three hectolitres, to transport them to the vats. At the time of the acquisition, 22 unique tronco-conical pure concrete tanks replaced the much larger steel tanks in the vat room in which natural sky lights were installed – good for the wine and for the mood of the winery Photo: Rajiv Singhal the estate attract beneficial insects and birds, which control

FINE Bordeaux Photo: Rajiv Singhal personnel. Each vat has a digitised integrated temperature control system which is monitored and controlled for precision by the winemakers through computers. These concrete vats range from 60 to 80 hectolitres – each marked for a specific parcel of the vineyard so that the blending team is given more options. The mobile trolleys carry the grapes to the top of the vats via a lift, and the berries are then tipped into the secured opening at the top using gravity flow. Augustin emphasised, “Concrete vats provide better temperature control and consistency compared to steel tanks, FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 49

and dedicated to preserving and enhancing its legacy – with the aim to make this one of the finest growths in Pomerol. The Wines After a wonderful tour of the vineyards and the winery, it was time to taste the wines. We sat down in the tasting room in the shop. As the wines were being poured, we asked Vincent what has changed in the last 35 years that he has been at Beauregard. “We now win a lot of precision in the vineyard and in the cellar with technology,” was his reply. The wines are an elegant expression of Merlot and Cabernet Franc – full of flavour and character – and present purity, freshness and ageing potential. Greater volume and length on the palate show through. Château Beauregard Grand Vin, Pomerol 2016 – the Grand Vin – is organic and produced from grapes grown on the blue clay gravel soil on the south-east edge of the plateau. A blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. Aged 65% in new oak barrels for 18 months. Velvety and rich, with voluptuous black fruit and truffle along with well-integrated oak. According to Vincent Priou, “A demanding vintage that required constant vigilance, but which turned out be one of the greatest wines produced.” which helps us to achieve the highest quality for our wines.” The vat room was built with some excess capacity. This comes handy in high production years, when they can accommodate other parcels of other group brands. The wines age under strict rules in two redesigned cellar rooms. Depending on the vintage, the wines are aged for 15 to 18 months allowing them to develop structure and finesse. A gravity-flow air conditioning system has been installed in the cellar room to prevent the barrels from drying and liquid from evaporating. The cellar rooms hold a large inventory of barrels, which are a mix of seven different coopers that supply new French oak barrels. We had the privilege of being guided through a very well planned and executed viticulture and vinification operation. As we observed the team at work, it was clear that every decision was being made with a deep respect for the land. The passion of the people was palpable. They were knowledgeable 50 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Bordeaux Le Benjamin de Beauregard, Pomerol 2021 – the second wine – is produced from grapes carefully selected from plots on sandier soils. Aged for a shorter period in no more than 30% new oak barrels. An earlier drinking option based on moderate extraction and short vatting. Ripe and fresh, with complex red fruit and liquorice. A silky mouth feel, well-integrated oak and long balanced finish. Château Pavillon Beauregard Lalande de Pomerol 2020 is from another family-owned estate in Néac, a commune in the adjacent Lalande de Pomerol appellation. Produced from grapes on a clay-gravel plateau with hardpan subsoil in the Beauregard vat cellars since 2015. A blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. Intensity of ripe fruits, with chocolate and spice. Rounded tannins and lingering spicy finish. Château Beauregard has been reborn from time-honoured savoir faire to become a Pomerol great. Its wines are being revered among collectors and critics, and after our visit, we understood why. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 51

Germany after the Millennium 52 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Germany A Red Wine Country? Text : Dr. Enno Lippold I f you were to go to top wine websites and look for Wines from Germany, you would probably read something like these lines from Justerini & Brooks: Led by theTaristocratic Riesling grape, Germany ext & Photos: Vidya Narasimhan produces some of the world’s finest, most age-worthy wines. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 53

Granted, that sounds familiar. Scroll a little further down and you may be surprised by this: In the red corner, the rise and rise of German Spätburgunder continues apace and the best wines are now rightfully respected and desirable as genuinely world class Pinot Noirs. It is a well-known fact that Pinot Noir has a very long history in France, first and foremost in Burgundy. But the grape has early historical roots in neighbouring Germany as well. The Cistercian order is indelibly linked to its geographical spread from the centre of its cultivation in Burgundy. Under Bernhard de 54 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Clairvaux, the Cistercians popularly known as the ‘white monks’ founded numerous monasteries including Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau region, some 500 km north-east of Beaune. already some 80 years after the first plantings in the famous Clos Vougeot in Burgundy. Although the name of the variety is not known, what else could it have been other than their Pinot Noir? They brought cuttings with them and in 1170 began planting the Steinberg vineyard in Hattenheim, In German-speaking countries, the grape is known as Pinot Noir as well, but there are several synonyms to describe the noble varietal. The most commonly used Spät (late) burgunder differentiates from the Früh (early) burgunder and Blau (blue) burgunder for the dark blue skin. Statistically, Pinot Noir in Germany occupies 3rd place worldwide, with approximately 12,000 hectares dedicated to this noble grape. Some sources indicate even earlier arrivals of the Spätburgunder grape, including referring to Charlemagne while staying in

FINE Germany Photo: Deutsches Weininstitut GmbH Spätburgunder Ingelheim from Christmas 787 to Easter 788 watching the snow melting early on the opposite bank of the Rhein. Coincidentally, the Rheingau region in central Germany was a unique kind of microclimatic 'island'. This was most suited to the grape varietal, which is very demanding in terms of location and vintage conditions, and allowed it to ripen in most years. This was not the case in other regions of Germany, which meant that the grape did not spread further to any significant extent. However, in the 15th century, there are references to the grape in the valley of the Ahr and in Baden, as monasteries were involved in viticulture and had built links with each other for sacramental wine. But the real breakthrough in cold Germany, better known for its white wines, did not come until 800 years after the planting in Steinberg. From around 1990, the area under cultivation for red grapes expanded dramatically due to the demand from domestic consumers for quality red wine. In 2010, an area of just under 12,000 hectares was reached. Since then the surface planted remained stable. Statistically, Pinot Noir in Germany occupies 3rd place worldwide. France leads by far with 30,000 hectares. But if one deducts the 13,000 hectares of Pinot Noir that are used for the production of base wines in Champagne, the area for production of still red The world’s attention to this red wine phenomenon from Germany was drawn when Meyer-Näkel’s Pfarrwingert won the 2008 Decanter World Wine Awards. wines made from Pinot Noir is approximately just 17,000 hectares in France as compared to 12,000 hectares in Germany. N.B. In Germany, known for white wines, one third of the acreage is planted to red grapes for domestic wine consumption. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 55

PRINCE‘S CAMP Spätburgunder Reserve Exceptionnelle The grapes for this wine originate from the "Prince´s Camp" Vineyard, formerly the property of the Grand Duke of Hesse. Over 50 years old vines with low yield contribute to this pure bred Pinot Noir with classical elegance, depth of fruit, great length and matured harmony 2018 Auerbacher Fürstenlager Spätburgunder Auslese · Hessische Bergstraße RED WINE, PRODUCT OF GERMANY BOTTLED BY DR. LIPPOLD, BENSHEIM-AUERBACH A.P. Nr. 2 907 884 3 20 Alc. 13 % by vol. 750ml The Cistercians founded monasteries in Rheingau and brought cuttings to plant the Steinberg vineyard in Hattenheim in 1170. The majority of the Spätburgunder vineyards, which total about 6,000 hectares are located in the Baden region (across from the Alsace region) in the warmer climes of the south-west corner of Germany. But in the course of the recent expansion, the variety has spread to all growing regions in the north. Global warming was the conditio sine qua non for the ripening of this grape. Jean Marie Fourrier reported from Burgundy: The cold areas of the past becoming the pearls of today. This holds true for Germany as well. 56 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA With this ‘red wine miracle’ which was hardly recognised outside of Germany, a handful of ambitious growers have raised the quality of their wines higher, setting an example for thousands of fellow producers including a number of progressive cooperatives. All those planting Spätburgunder are aiming to exploit the grape’s unique quality potential. The author himself acquired a parcel with old Spätburgunder vines on the Rhein in Hessische Bergstrasse. This parcel was once owned by the Grand Duke of Hesse and was near his summer residence known to the locals as ‘Fürstenlager’ (Prince’s Camp) which gave its name to the wine that was served at fashionable picnics in the park of the princely mansion. The world’s attention was first drawn to this red wine phenomenon in Germany when Meyer-Näkel´s Pfarrwingert won the 2008 Enthält Sulfite contains sulphites contiene solfiti Decanter World Wine Awards ahead of the regional bests from New Zealand, Chile and France (a 2006 Chambertin from Camille Giroud). It soon became obvious that this was no flash in the pan. In an interview in 2021, Jancis Robinson was asked with whom she would like to drink a glass of German wine. Her answer: I would like to drink a glass of the many great Spätburgunders produced right now with Lalou Bize-Leroy to show her that there is life beyond Burgundy. In the meantime, German winemakers continue to strive for an ‘own identity’ for Spätburgunder wines with an even stronger cool climate character. Elegance, finesse, good acidity and pure fruit instead of power and wood is the motto everywhere. In the 19th century, the northern part of the Mosel, around the 50th parallel south of Koblenz was heavily

in fact the leading variety in the lower Mosel. The cultivation on narrow terraces with dry stone walls and the resulting microclimate favoured grape ripening. However, top quality was only achieved in rare, exceptional vintages as the focus was too heavily on volume yields. This contributed to the decline of red wines from this region because Riesling fetched higher prices at the time. In 1934, a government ban put an end to the planting of red varieties on the Mosel altogether. It needed a group of vintners to protest against this in the 1980s – they may have been somewhat selfish, because by then red grapes expansion to over 400 hectares. Currently, Spätburgunder ranks No. 4 in the Mosel varieties. And the formerly ‘red’ Untermosel is also slowly awakening. The best results are once again on the terraces but the climate is no longer so harsh to the ‘diva’. This allows growers to concentrate on developing a distinct profile, based on the right genetics from low yielding old vines planted With the lifting of the ban only in 1986, a new chapter of success began for the Spätburgunder on the more southerly Mittelmosel around Bernkastel. Early pioneers like Markus Molitor started in 1988 with mass-selected German and French plants. The demand in Germany and more recently from overseas is reflected in the further in the finest slate soil parcels – traditionally reserved for Riesling. In the cellar, reductive vinification takes precedence with no oak influence – just pure, precise red berry fruit, brimming with tension, energy and length. A true cool climate wine that serves as the perfect food companion – a Riesling in red! > Photo: Deutsches Weininstitut GmbH fetched better prices than whites. The rise and rise of German Spätburgunder continues apace and the best wines are now rightfully respected and desirable as genuinely world class Pinot Noirs. FINE Germany planted with Spätburgunder. It was FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 57

Where Old World MEeTS New 60 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE South Africa S Text & Photos: Vidya Narasimhan outh Africa is often referred to in the wine world as the oldest ‘new world’ country. While most wine in the world is made within the 35° and 55° latitude North or South of the equator, in South Africa it is made between the 32° and 35° latitude South. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 61

Growing grapes at such low latitudes is particularly challenging given the exceptionally dry and arid conditions inland in the country. It is made possible by the moderating influence of the winds over the cold north-bound Benguela ocean current and the coastal mountain ranges. The contrast between the cool wind and the warm land results in coastal fog. These cooling influences extend the growing season, giving the grapes a balance of acidity and ripeness. In 1652, vines were introduced to the country by Dutch settlers. In 1778, almost a century after the Constantia wine estate was established by Governor Simon van der Stel just outside Cape Town, the grower Hendrik Cloete made the very popular dessert wine, Vin de Constance. Under the British, exports of inexpensive wine thrived until 1861, when the preferential tariffs for South African wine were removed. 62 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA When phylloxera struck devastation, the high yielding Cinsaut, Colombard and Chenin Blanc grape varietals were planted to make up for lost time. But soon, there was a surplus of inexpensive, poor quality, bulk wine which was poured into the local rivers. The giant co-operative, Koöperatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika (KWV), was founded in 1918 as the first producer of commercially made brandy that was also exported. Back then, around two thirds of the grapes grown were intended for brandy production. Only about a third of the grapes was for wine production. Once South Africa became a democracy in 1994, the world opened up to South African exports. In the post-apartheid era, there was a focus on better quality viticulture, sustainable practices, higher planting density and thoughtful wine making practices, with

Cape blends, Pinotage based red Cape blends and red Bordeaux blends; black Rhone varietals; single varietals; dessert and fortified wines; as well as traditional method sparkling wines referred to as Cap Classique wines. I had the opportunity to discover the distinctive wine districts of Constantia, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek – all of them not far from Cape Town – and spent some time in the stunning vineyards to experience what makes the wines of South Africa so unique! FINE South Africa South Africa's unique terroir and long winemaking history defy simple categorization. younger winemakers getting exposure from working harvests in the northern hemisphere. Experienced and young winemakers in South Africa crafted a distinctive range of wines that kept with the times in terms of sustainable practices, while also adopting bold innovations that result in a clear expression of the South African terroir. KWV was reconstituted as a company and its statutory powers were removed in the late 1990s. It evolved to improve the quality of wine making, winning many awards such as the Veritas Wine awards and World’s Top 50 Most Admired Brands. In 2021, KWV’s viticulturalist Marco Ventrella was named Viticulturalist of the Year by Tim Atkin MW in his annual South Africa Special Report. Today, more than 85% of the grapes grown in the country are used to produce wine while the rest produce brandy. While Chenin Blanc continued to be the dominant white grape variety grown (almost double the plantings of Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley, France), Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were also widely planted. Since 1994, more black grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz/Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Pinotage were planted. Pinotage – a cross between two black varietals (Cinsaut/Hermitage and Pinot Noir) developed by the University of Stellenbosch a century ago – has emerged as South Africa’s signature grape. Wine in South Africa is made in a range of styles – blends such as Chenin Blanc dominant white FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 63

Constantia The birthplace of viticulture and winemaking in South Africa, Constantia – a short 30-minute drive from Cape Town – was famous in the early 18th century for a high demand dessert wine enjoyed by European royalty – Vin de Constance. Constantia is a cool and wet region with about 1,000 mm of annual rain, hence irrigation is unnecessary. Vineyards are on the east-facing slopes of the Constantiaberg mountain overlooking False Bay, from which the cooling sea breeze favours the production of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon as well as Methode Cap Classique sparkling wines. The soils are a combination of Table Mountain sandstone and decomposed granite, which along with the heavy rainfall, contribute to vigorous growth of vines that require regular trimming, canopy management and crop thinning. These labourintensive practices produce disease-free grapes with optimum ripeness and freshness. The cool maritime climate also lends itself to the production of vibrant and elegant red wines from Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Steenberg: Back in 1682, a courageous lady, Catharina Ras, registered a farm, now called 64 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Steenberg. The original farm has changed ownership several times over the centuries. In 1976, it was developed into a vineyard with a boutique hotel. In 2005, it was bought by Graham Beck, and the 100 hectares of protected land were transformed into a luxury boutique hotel, with a golf course and an award-winning winery. Winemaker Elunda Basson

FINE South Africa prides herself in the technical precision in winemaking that ensures high quality wines from the 50 hectares of vineyards. Steenberg is known for its range of Sauvignon Blanc wines – 23 blocks have been planted at different altitudes and exposures to light and wind, with different trellising and canopy management techniques – some blended with Semillon, and some barrel fermented and aged. The younger plantings are used for the Cap Classique wines. The must-try wines are the flagship Black Swan (the label is an ode to the wild spur-winged geese, some of which are still found on the property, that Catharina Ras mistook for swans from her native Germany) and the iconic Magna Carta, a Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend made only in the best vintages, that has stood upto some of the finest from Graves and Pessac-Leognan. Constantia's Vin de Constance dessert wine was once adored by European royalty. Constantia Glen: This wine estate was born in 1813, when the 60 hectares of land on Constantiaberg (next to Table Mountain) overlooking False Bay were registered as a farm. Between 1843 and 1851, it was called Glen Alpine and became a renowned wine estate drawing the attention of many, including Queen Victoria’s son Prince Alfred. Over the next century, it became a farm with fruiting trees, a dairy farm and a small vineyard, but became overgrown with forest vegetation. In 1960, the Waibels from Austria bought the land but did not commercially farm it until 1995 when they bred Red Angus cattle. Dieter Waibel wanted to bring the farm back to its original purpose. After a devastating fire in the Western Cape in 2000 destroyed much of the farm, extensive soil analysis led to the planting of vineyards on about 30 hectares in 2001. The first wine was produced in 2005 and the farm was renamed Constantia Glen. The vineyards, at an altitude of 130-270 metres above sea level on north-east facing slopes, get plenty of late afternoon sun due to a gap between the mountains, allowing for slow ripening of the grapes. The cool maritime breeze further keeps the temperature low with the average daily temperature of 16°C. The soil’s top layer comprises decomposed granite and sandstone – both lend a distinct mineral edge to the wines. Clay subsoil with high water retention permits sustainable dryland cultivation. Biological insect and pest control is used by employing natural predators. The terrain of undulating slopes necessitates manual labour for pruning, canopy management and harvesting. Winemaker Justin van Wyk focusses on producing high quality wines and maintaining continuity – majority of the workforce have been with the estate for two decades. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 65

Nek. Originally a goat farm, the fire in 2000 destroyed everything, leaving alien vegetation. The Du Preez family purchased this farm in 2002, cleared the vegetation, established a fire break around the farm, did extensive soil analysis on the decomposed granite and Table Mountain sandstone and planted lowyielding vines in 2003. Beau Constantia: Not all of Constantia follows traditional viticulture and wine making. Beau Constantia is a boutique wine farm of 12 hectares with vineyards nestled between the Helderberg and the Stellenbosch Mountain ranges and a futuristic glass-encased tasting room on the steep Constantia 66 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Beau Constantia takes a minimum intervention approach to viticulture and vinification to produce high quality grapes and wines. Labour intensive canopy management and fungicide spraying allows for adequate air circulation to deal with the mist, high humidity and rainfall as well as the high heat on the steepest slopes in the Western Cape that are part of the estate. Grapes are hand harvested, manually sorted and gently destemmed to ensure that only the highest quality grapes are used for winemaking. Natural fermentation is often adopted with no added yeast, the juice/must is gravity drained, grapes are vinified separately and blended subsequently, the wine is unfined and bottled. The resulting wines display fresh fruit and earthy characteristics yet have well-integrated 14.5% alcohol. Stellenbosch The historical town of Stellenbosch, 45 km east of Cape Town, is the business, educational and research hub of the wine industry in South Africa. It’s one of

Post-apartheid South Africa improved grape growing and eco-friendly winemaking. Kanonkop: A fourth-generation family-run wine farm, Kanonkop has about 95 hectares of vineyards planted at the foothills of the Simonsberg mountain. The farm leverages technology and research to determine the choice of rootstock. Vineyard management practices are labour intensive with manual pruning, canopy management of high-density vines ensures low yield high-quality grapes and juice to make structured and elegant wines. Cover crops are used to maintain moisture content in the soil and leftover grape skins, stems and seeds are used as compost for the vineyards. While grapes are hand harvested, Kanonkop doesn’t shy away from using mechanisation and technology in many other tasks like optical sorting to ensure that only top-quality fruit is used in the automated punch down of crushed grape skins (every couple of hours) during open top concrete fermentation that mimic manual punch downs for better tannin and colour extraction. FINE South Africa the oldest wine regions in South Africa. Early settlers in this region were encouraged to plant oak trees, and today, Stellenbosch’s oak-lined streets and its other name, Eikestad, meaning ‘village of oaks’ bear testimony to this. Surrounded by the Helderberg, Simonsberg and Stellenbosch mountains, there are many valleys among them. The soil is varied with sandy loam on the valley floor to deep decomposed granite that retains water. The climate is moderated by cooling breezes from False Bay, that is only a 15 minute’s drive away. The mountainous terrain, well drained soils, the cooling breezes, and good rainfall contribute to exceptional quality wines. This region is reputed for its premium Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine blends produced by the mix of historic estates and contemporary wineries. The Stellenbosch Wine Route established in 1971 is the oldest and the largest wine route in all of South Africa. in the region to build housing with electricity for its farm workers and engage with them on improving their conditions. Adjacent to the tasting room is a former oak maturation room that showcases library wines of special vintages and an art gallery with rotating exhibits by contemporary artists. Waterford Estate: Established in 1998 by the Ord family, the 120 hectare estate in the Blaawklippen Valley has about 50 hectares under vine. It is surrounded by waterfalls on the slopes of Considered to be the pioneer of Pinotage, this grape contributes about half the estate’s annual production. Kanonkop was one of the first wine farms FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 67

the Helderberg mountain with the remaining land dedicated to preserving the natural flora and fauna. Waterford’s philosophy is to create best quality wines which truly and consistently express the terroir of the Helderberg mountain, while using environmentally responsible techniques and practices for grape growing and wine making. Regenerative viticultural practices employed include the use of cover crops to prevent soil erosion, improve soil health and maintain the quality of water available for vines. Cows roaming among the vineyards allow for aeration of vine roots (cows do not compact the soil like tractors do) and ladybugs protect the vines from other pests. Water used in wine production is judiciously recycled, stored in a dam, and further treated with oxygen before being sprayed in the vineyards. The cellar with over 1,400 oak barrels has exposed soil under each row of barrels to assist temperature regulation. Many of the dedicated farm workers have lived and worked in the estate for several years, retaining critical knowledge in farm operations. Viticulturalist David van Schalkwyk and Cellar Master Mark Le Roux ensure high quality grape production and craft authentic, unpretentious yet award-winning wines. The estate offers experiences such as a porcupine trail to showcase the vineyards and fynbos (the local word for native flora and fauna, from an old Dutch word meaning ‘fine bush’ which includes heather-like trees and shrubs), or a threehour wine safari. DeMorgenzon: Originally a farm in the late 17th century, DeMorgenzon was established in 2003 as a garden vineyard. The name stands for ‘the Morning Sun,’ as the vineyard is the first in the Stellenboschkloof valley to receive sunlight at dawn. The property has plenty of slopes between 200-400 metres above sea level, with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and ocean, as well as aspects that enable the growth of different grape varieties on 55 hectares of planted vines. Satellite and historical data, soil analysis of the complex soil types in the vineyard and topographical studies were carried out to match the grape variety to plot, to determine the choice of rootstock, vine spacing and exposure. Cypresses, roses, lemon fig and olive trees between vines and many other carefully chosen flowers such as cornflowers, Shirley poppies and California poppies reflect the biodiverse and ecologically sensitive environment the owners have invested in. Some of the initiatives undertaken to make wine in an ethical and responsible manner include the use of green sources of energy; cover crops to retain soil moisture and prevent soil erosion; drip irrigation of vineyards to conserve water; dedicating 10% of 68 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

increasingly plantings have been on higher elevations of the area (Renosterveld); deployment of predatory (600 metres) with a slightly cooler climate, resulting in insects instead of pesticides to control mealy bugs the grapes having higher acidity; hence, grapes from that spread the leaf roll virus; and employee support Franschhoek are often used as blending partners by setting up transport and schools. DeMorgenzon to add freshness and vibrancy. Rainfall is about believes that music influences the growth of a vine 800 mm a year and the soils are fast draining, so and the grapes it bears and has played classical music irrigation is often required. Given the cooler climate, in the vineyard, winery, and cellar since 2009! Franschhoek is a leading Cap Classique producer. Franschhoek The most widely planted white-wine varieties are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – there Franschhoek (the French Corner) is located are some Semillon vines over 100 years old. Cabernet northeast of Stellenbosch and southeast of Paarl. This Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot are the leading red wine region has the Groot Drakenstein, Klein Drakenstein varieties. The region is recognized for the quality of its and Simonsberg mountains on three sides with varied Cabernet Sauvignon and Semillon. topography and warmth. Multiple small streams from these mountain peaks converge to form the Berg River that flows down the valley. French Huguenots were the early settlers here in the late 17th century and Franschhoek retains its French character to date in the names of wine farms, guesthouses, and restaurants. In fact, Franschhoek is regarded as the ‘culinary capital’ of the Cape. Initially grape growing was focused on the valley floor at 300 metres above sea level, however, FINE South Africa vineyard area for restoration of the natural habitat GlenWood: In the Robertsvlei valley, not far from the town of Franschhoek, this award-winning wine farm was established in 1984 on 52 hectares. Plenty of baboons, birds and leopards frequent the farm, which is surrounded by indigenous fynbos. GlenWood’s passion for preserving its natural environment is reflected in its sustainable farming and cellar practices – it was recognised as a WWF Conservation Champion. The Cellar Master (also the General Manager now) has been with the winery for 34 years. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 69

To maintain its premium quality for the future, 36 hectares of vineyards were replanted in 2023 with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, with the exception of a Chenin Blanc parcel planted in 1965. Wine maker Neil Bruwer practices regenerative viticulture, ensuring that the wines reflect the estate’s respect for the environment in which the grapes are grown – vines are dry-farmed, organic compost and mulch are ploughed back, green harvesting prevents overproduction by the vines, grapes are hand-harvested, etc. The winery uses techniques like wild fermentation with natural yeast and no artificial acidification. Pinotage is a distinctive South African grape born from Cinsaut and Pinot Noir. Visitors can enjoy a walk or a drive to experience the fynbos in a 20-minute route around the winery. Those keen to learn about the vineyard and wine making practices can book a 'Vine to Bottle' tour that starts in the vineyard, covering viticultural practices, moving on to the cellar to cover wine making steps (wild yeast, open top fermentation, careful manual punch downs etc.) with winemaker Natasha Pretorius and finishing with a barrel tasting. The Tasting Room is a vine covered pergola on a terrace that also serves gourmet sushi. Chamonix: One of the largest wine farms of Franschhoek on 238 hectares, Chamonix dates back to the 17th century. It is a member of Certified Heritage Vineyards, by the Old Vine Project. The estate, established in 1991, was acquired a couple of decades ago by German-born entrepreneur Chris Hellinger. Nestled in the cool southwest-facing slope of Mont Rochelle, 36 hectares of vineyards on mostly clay (and some stony) soil are at an altitude of 400-600 metres above sea level, where the cool afternoon breezes in the summer aid optimal fruit development. Improvements were made to reflect its philosophy – to keep processing to a minimum and embrace the natural environment to showcase the terroir. 70 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The tasting room is located in the 19th century Blacksmith Cottage with access to the cellar, which is likely the first underground cellar in South Africa set up in the early nineties. The restaurant on site offers elegant fine dining that showcases seasonal local ingredients.

FINE South Africa Haute Cabrière: Established as a farm in the Franschhoek Valley in 1694 by French Huguenot Pierre Jourdan. The farm on the eastern and western slopes of Franschhoek was bought in 1982 by the Achim von Arnim family, of German descent, and is now in its second generation of leadership under Takuan von Arnim supported by Cellar Master Tim Hoek. The grapes grown on the 30 hectares of vineyards have a balance between mineral expression, given the altitude, higher than average rainfall and fruit expression due to the late morning sunshine and the afternoon sunlight. Haute Cabrière has multiple plots at varying altitudes – the higher-lying vineyards have sandstone at different stages of weathering, reminiscent of Burgundy and hence planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Haute Cabrière is founded on values of family, community and innovation. The farm was among the first producers of Cap Classique traditional method sparkling wines, which are labelled ‘Pierre Jourdan’ as an ode to the original owner of the farm. Haute Cabrière’s tasting room offers unique views of the underground cellar as well as exquisite views of the surrounding mountain slopes. The restaurant and deli have a sun-kissed terrace facing the mountains. Some of Achim von Armin’s private artworks collection is on display in the Tasting Room. South African wine producers (historic and boutique) are leading the production of awardwinning wines by adopting technology, showing respect for the environment in this era of changing climatic conditions, preserving old vines, and making bold choices in the vineyard and cellar. The future continues to shine bright for the exceptional wines produced here that are a pure expression of South African terroir! > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 71

Tasting Notes constantia black berry, blue berry, dried herb, cedar, cocoa and Steenberg Flagship Semillon 2023 The only producer of the Semillon varietal in Constantia. Barrel fermented and aged in a blond toasted French oak barrel. Pale gold colour with aromas of orange blossom, dried apricot, vanilla and flavours of nectarine and custard. Waxy texture. palate. Full bodied with firm tannins. Steenberg Flagship Catharina 2017 A Merlot dominant Bordeaux style red blend with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Fresh, with plenty of red and black fruit expression from the long hours of cold maceration. Soft tannins and a gently spicy finish. graphite. Characteristics of the same fruits on the Van Wyk Family Wines Syrah 2020 Cool climate wine made with 50% whole bunches, aged in second fill French oak barrels for 13 months. Lavender, violet and black pepper aromas with black currant and black berry on the palate. Medium bodied with fine tannins. Constantia Glen Two 2021 A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (73%) and Semillon (27%). Grapes selected from best vineyards are handharvested. Sauvignon Blanc is destemmed, crushed Constantia Glen Five 2020 A blend of Cabernet Franc (28%), Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), Merlot (21%), Petit Verdot (17%), and Malbec (10%). Aged for 19 months in French barriques (72% new). Unfined, though lightly filtered before bottling. Aromas of dark cherry, black plum, blackcurrant, 72 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA and left to have skin contact for 6 to 18 hours, while Semillon is added whole bunch. Barrel fermentation in 600 litre demi-muids (10% new, 90% second to sixth fills. A mix of French and Austrian, French acacia and clay-amphora) for 12 months on lees. White blossom, citrus and green fig aromas, a rich texture and salinity.

FINE South Africa Pas de Nom Creative Batch 2022 A blend of Chenin Blanc (65%), and a smattering of other Southern French origin grapes – Viognier (6%), Roussane (15%), Colombard (8%) and Clairette Blanc (6%). An orange-style wine made by natural skin fermentation in concrete vats and aged for about 6-8 months in old French oak barrels. Very aromatic with honeysuckle, ripe peach and apricot characteristics. Beau Constantia Constantia Stella 2020 Northern Rhone style blend of predominantly Syrah (99.5%) and Viognier (0.5%) that has been aged in French oak barriques for 18 months. Spicy, meaty, herbaceous, fresh, yet balanced with ripe almost jammy cassis. A savoury palate finishing with coffee and dark chocolate flavours. Tannins are fine and chalky with well-integrated alcohol. Stellenbosch Kanonkop Estate Paul Sauer 2019 A Bordeaux style red blend first made in 1981 from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in homage to owner, Paul Sauer. Aged 24 months in new French oak barrels. Remarkable intensity and complexity in aromas and flavours – cassis, black plum, black cherry, vanilla, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, cigar box, leather, mushroom. Well-structured with firm, fine and ripe tannins. 100 points from Tim Atkin MW. Smoky, saline, yet fresh crisp acidity. Abundant citrus fruit, pear and stone fruit. Kanonkop Estate Black Label Pinotage 2020 A varietal Pinotage made from a single vineyard of old vines first planted in 1953 and aged 18 months in new French oak barrels. First vintage in 2006. Deep purple colour, with intense aromas and flavours of red cherry, black plum, sweet spice and dark chocolate. Velvety tannins that are well-integrated. Waterford Estate Stellenbosch, The Jem 2014 A Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) led blend with other grapes – Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, Mourvedre and Barbera. An ode to owner, Jeremy Ord (affectionately called Jem) to showcase the estate’s best fruits. Fresh and juicy. Blackberry and dark cherry dominant with cedar, cigar and earthy aromas. The whole is definitely more than the sum of its parts. Won top awards in South Africa and rated in the top 1% wines in the world! Waterford Estate Chardonnay (Single Vineyard) 2019 Grapes grown on old vines planted in 1988 on gravel top soil and clay subsoil. Whole bunch pressed, barrel fermented, minimal malolactic fermentation, lees stirred for 3 months of the 11 months of ageing in French oak barrels (of which 15% new). Complex. Kevin Arnold Ashleigh Anne, Shiraz 2018 A blend of Shiraz (96%) and Mourvedre (4%). Aged for 20 months in a combination of old 225 litre and 500 litre French oak barrels. Homage to the previous wine maker. Elegant. Plum aromas. A fresh and spicy palate with liquorice finishing with hints of leather. Fine and ripe tannins. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 73

DeMorgenzon Maestro Red 2017 A Bordeaux style blend of Merlot (36%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Cabernet Franc (14%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Malbec (5%). Whole berries spontaneously fermented and macerated for two weeks to extract colour and flavour, before maturation for 18 months in 300-litre and 3,000-litre French oak barrels. Ripe cassis, rich red fruit, dried herb, blackberry and cigar box aromas and flavours accompany a silky palate. DeMorgenzon Stellenbosch, Reserve Chenin Blanc 2020 Grapes from old bush vines planted in 1972 are hand harvested at the optimum level of ripeness. Whole bunches selected in the vineyard, cooled and gently pressed. Fermented spontaneously in French oak barrels (20% new) with 20% going through malolactic fermentation. Aged on lees for 10 months. Zesty, rich, saline, yet with white blossom, honey, stone fruit, toast aromas, and pear, orange blossom, caramel on the palate and a creamy body. DeMorgenzon Stellenbosch, Reserve Syrah 2017 Grapes are hand harvested grapes (about 20% whole bunch), fermented with wild yeast, gently pumped over and punched down to extract tannins and colour and ageing in a 300 litre French oak barrels for 10 months followed by further ageing in 3,000 litre foudres for 74 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA another 10 months. Deep purple colour with rich ripe black berry, black pepper, vanilla, cinnamon, clove on the nose and palate. Full bodied with vibrant fresh acidity and well-integrated fine ripe tannins. Franschhoek GlenWood Franschhoek Grand Duc Chardonnay 2021 Small batch production. Grapes of the oldest plot in the vineyards (about 30 years old) are whole bunch pressed. 100% malolactic fermentation and aged for 12 months in high toast new French oak barrels. Plenty of citrus, orange peel, butter, vanilla, toast and spicy characteristics in a rich full body and a long finish. GlenWood Franschhoek Grand Duc Syrah 2021 Small batch production with grapes from select parcels (25% whole bunches). Ageing for 24 months in 50% new French and 50% in American oak barrels. Intensely dark ruby colour with concentrated fruit and floral aromas – rose, lavender, candied bacon, juicy black berry, dark plum, black pepper, cedar and smoky characteristics. Full bodied with well-integrated fine tannins. Chamonix Reserve Chardonnay 2021 Made in a limited quantity from carefully selected

FINE South Africa grapes. Fermented in French oak barrels and matured in a combination of new French oak (45%), second fill French oak barrels (35%) and concrete vats (20%). Nose and palate are rich and complex with an array of citrus, tropical fruit, salted almond, hazelnut, vanilla, ginger, buttered toast. Creamy, savoury and refreshing mouthfeel. Chamonix Estate Reserve Troika 2020 A complex Bordeaux style red with a blend of classic Bordeaux grapes – Cabernet Franc (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (31%), Petit Verdot (10.5%) and Merlot (3.5%) – grown at 450 metres above sea level. Fermented in French oak barrels and aged for 18 months in French barriques (40% new). Deep ruby colour with hints of garnet. Aromas of peppermint, vanilla, red and black fruit, leather and mushroom with a rich savoury palate with black currant, blackberry, plum, dark chocolate, mushroom. Full bodied with fine ripe tannins and a long finish. Pierre Jourdan Belle Nectar Demi-Sec Rosé NV Recently introduced in the range. Made from 100% Pinot Noir with 59 grams per litres of residual sugar, created in the Cap Classique method. This is a wine for celebratory times! One can’t feel the sugar given the vibrant acidity. Rich and balanced with fresh rose petal aromas accompanying fresh strawberry on the palate. Haute Cabriere Arnim Family Reserve 2019 A unique South African blend of Syrah (80%) and Pinot Noir (20%), this is a family favourite honouring an age-old idea from Burgundy; aged 12 months in French barriques. Deep ruby coloured. Spicy on the nose with red and dark fruit and cedar aromas and red fruit and blackberry on the palate. Full bodied with smooth tannins and a lingering finish. Haute Cabriere Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2022 A top seller, this wine is made from Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%) and is fermented in stainless steel tanks. It’s refreshing with citrus and red berries on the palate and a long finish. ‘Heritage 30’, a limited release, was made in 2024 for the estate’s 30th anniversary. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 75

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H FINE Wine The Beauty of the Blend TEXT: Christopher Burr FRSA MW aving been in the wine business for fifty years, I cannot count the number of times I have heard so many people say in a disparaging tone, “But it’s only a blend!” or ask, “Is it a cheap blend…?” For some reason, I know not why, the image of blended wine is that it is somehow inferior to one from a single place or grape varietal or even vintage. Slightly irritated by this perception, I decided to write my dissertation for the Master of Wine Examination, back in 1995, on the importance of blending. I called it ‘The Beauty of the Blend’. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 77

Clearly, I could have examined the most armies. They met again after the war, famous of blended wines, Champagne, when father was a brewer and Director a mix of different grape varieties, often of Charrington and Co at the Anchor from different sites, and achieving even Brewery on Mile End Road, London. further complexity by the addition Victor came to sell his Champagne to of reserve wines from older vintages. them. The result was that the friendship Probably the most blended wine there was renewed and we would often stop in is, and yet one of the greatest. Reims on our summer holidays, on our way to the Black Forest or Switzerland, Or Bordeaux, similarly using different or even heading to the south of France grape and Italy. varieties to add different dimensions and attributes to provide complexity. Or Port, the same. But no, I decided to look at single vineyard great Burgundy, and a single site German Riesling from the Mosel. 78 I remember one occasion when Victor invited us into his tasting room, to show us his most recent creation, the famous ‘Black Label’. I now know he was showing my father a vins clairs featuring My interest in blending wine started young still wines from many different when I was six-and-a-half. My father had vineyards with different Champagne met Victor Lanson from the well known grape varietals, then the addition of Champagne family during the war, when some older (reserve) wines, to create the Allies reached Paris. Victor was something complex, balanced and with liaison officer for the free French under potential to age and become gentle and De Gaulle with the British and American beautiful. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

a wonderful, complex, balanced wine. I took me as a schoolboy to pick grapes still think Grande Cuvée is Krug’s finest and help in wineries, I ended up working wine, not a vintage which they make in Margaux, and with the port blending only in top years, or a single great site at and like Mesnil, which they also make, but Château Mouton Rothschild, when they a blend, including around 50% reserve put the blends together in the tasting wine. Remi, Henri’s brother, insisted room with samples from every barrel, quite rightly on calling it a blend of some Cabernet Sauvignon from various vintages, a multi-vintage rather than a plots, Merlot, Malbec (which they call non-vintage. Cot in the Medoc, and of which they I went on to become the importer of have minuscule amounts), and small Ruinart, then to be Managing Director quantities of the difficult to ripen but of the UK business that was owned by spicy little Petit Verdot (in blending, like Bollinger. With all these and visits to adding a touch of salt and pepper to other Champagne houses, I was lucky good cooking). and interested enough to be able to both Château Lascombes My first real job other than as a trainee, was at Hedges and Butler, where I was made Brand Manager for Krug Champagne. I used to spend hours in the FINE Wine Years later, when my interest in wine discover how they put together their blends. I am not sure whether to describe the skill in blending as artistry, but it is certainly masterful and inspirational. tasting room with Henri Krug who was I also came across this artistry in the head of winemaking, and learnt so much Douro Valley, when I worked with from him about the artistry of creating Taylors and Fonseca Ports. Bruce FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 79

Guimareans, who was the wine maker, wines from different clones and younger was an absolute master of blending, vines; wines from the top most exposed again using different grape varietals part of the slope and the bottom of and vineyard sites to create something the site – different exposure and often very special and so much greater than the individual parts. He always told me that the greatest vintage blends, built to last, were always so tough and intense as to be undrinkable when first blended, oak and old oak; wines from free run juice and wine from gently pressed grapes... I could go on. needing up to fifteen years before Michel Chapoutier showed me how, for starting to show their best. white Hermitage, apart from selecting So when it was time to write my and vinifying parcels separately, he also dissertation, I decided to research some ferments some protectively in tank and of the great wines I was working with. some in cask, to be able to create a blend From the Côtes d’Or in Burgundy, I chose of some oxidatively made and some the single vineyard de Vogue Musigny reductively made wine. – 100% Pinot Noir. From the Mosel in Germany, I chose Egon Muller’s single Guess what? When it came to producing site Scharzhofberger – 100% Riesling. the finished wine, these winemakers and In these great vineyards, and working with the wine makers, I discovered 80 drainage; wines fermented in tank, new their teams line up samples of all these different wines and create a wonderful that ‘different’ wines were generally ‘assemblage’. I would go so far now as to fermented separately. ascertain that for my taste, no great wine Theircould be wines from different is not the result and beneficiary of the parcels or soil types within the vineyard; winemaker’s mastery in blending. > and FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA held

The EconomIcs of Timeless Treasures TEXT: Francesca Bridgewater FCIM T he inaugural Grand Chiswick Wine Auction on 20th November 2024 transcended the realm of rare bottles and delivered a compelling masterclass on the synergy between fine wine and investment. Curated with expertise and flair, Christopher Burr Master of Wine described the event as showcasing ‘some of the most rare and collectible wines ever to come to light’. Beyond the allure of exceptional vintages, the auction highlighted the thriving appeal of wine as both a lucrative asset class for collectors and a window into the fascinating world of heritage and value. 82 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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Held in the vibrant London district of Chiswick, the Dom Pérignon 1980, celebrated for their elegance and event featured an extraordinary selection of fine finesse. Other notable offerings included eight bottles wines from six historic cellars, each with impeccable of Dom Pérignon 1995, from the private collection of provenance. Among the treasures were bottles a historically significant London home. “A ripe vintage previously owned by iconic figures, their origins which, now nearly 30 years old, is supremely complex only recently revealed to unveil a gripping vinous with great length, yet still has bright fruit and a creamy narrative. “These vaults unravelled a treasure trove mousse. At its peak,” enthused Burr. of history, with plot twists spanning the last century and beyond,” noted Richard Crowther, a member of Chiswick Auctions’ Wine Department. Wines from the meticulously climate-controlled cellar of a prestigious South of France estate were a standout inclusion. While the conditions ensured exceptional quality of the wines, Burr acknowledged the inevitability of some label deterioration – a testament to their decades-long journey through 84 These vaults unravelled a treasure trove of history, with plot twists spanning the last century and beyond. Adding to the allure, the collection of bottle-aged Pol Roger showcased exceptional craftsmanship. Bottled time. in 2001 and 2003, these wines benefitted from two Champagne: Elegance and History in Every Bottle gentle balance of fruit and acidity. “Pol Roger is made Among the highlights was a remarkable collection ones from the House's Premier Cru vineyards. A true of Champagne, headlined by Lot 2 – three bottles of example of the beauty of the blend, and with extra FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA decades of bottle ageing, delivering complexity and a very traditionally, using old oak to pre-oxidate the must and blending older reserve wines with young

Richebourg 1919 and a Corton 1921, as well as white glitterati at the preview evening. Burgundy treasures such as a Meursault 1er Cru 1934 and Corton Charlemagne. Bordeaux: A Showcase Bordeaux, as anticipated, commanded centre stage with an astonishing lineup of historic vintages from legendary estates. Château Lafite-Rothschild Port: A Journey Through Craftsmanship The extraordinary ensemble of eleven Ports offered impressed with vintages from 1858 to 1929, while a captivating glimpse into the evolution of fine Château Margaux offered treasures like a 1926 winemaking, showcasing vintages spanning the magnum and bottles from 1892, 1905 and 1947. 19th and early 20th centuries. Among the standout Château Latour's iconic 1959 and 1961 vintages highlights were two coveted bottles of Quinta do captivated bidders, alongside Château Haut-Brion's Noval Nacional from the legendary 1947 and 1955 1921 and 1957 selections. Château Mouton Rothschild vintages – widely regarded as benchmarks of their contributed exceptional bottles from 1929 and 1947, era and the pinnacle of any collector's dream. Other complemented by a magnum from 1926. The Pétrus rare gems in the collection included two bottles of 1979 further elevated Bordeaux’s prestige at the Quinta do Noval 1941, a Croft 1922, a Taylor’s 1923, auction. two bottles of Dow 1890 that were complemented Burgundy: Icons of Pinot Noir FINE Au c t i o n age, superb!” Burr affirmed to delighted guests and by the 1908, and a Sandeman 1904 alongside a rare Sandeman from the 1930s. Burgundy enthusiasts were treated to an exceptional The meticulous care invested in preserving these offering, including red Burgundy gems like a historic bottles underscores their enduring value. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 85

As the learned Master of Wine explained: “Many of from Companhia Vinícola da Madeira and a Malmsey the 19th and early 20th century vintages had been 1790, its provenance shrouded in mystery yet its recorked to maintain their quality. In a fascinating significance undeniable. Adding further intrigue and rather innovative touch, glass marbles have been were a Sercial 1825 from an unnamed producer used to top-up fill levels, ensuring the wines remain and an enigmatic 1800s Blandy’s vintage, each a in optimal condition. Having sampled one of these unique time capsule of Madeira’s celebrated past. meticulously preserved bottles, I can attest to their exceptional quality.” 1893, distinguished by its high shoulder ullage Unsurprisingly, this remarkable lot commanded a and lack of marbles, a remarkable feat of natural well-deserved sale price of several thousand pounds, preservation. This captivating lot, steeped in history a testament to its historical significance and the and craftsmanship, commanded an impressive sale timeless appeal of fine Ports. price of over £4,000, underscoring its extraordinary Madeira: Centuries of Excellence Equally 86 Rounding out the collection was a Blandy’s Verdelho impressive was the Madeira selection appeal to collectors. This landmark auction not only celebrated the enduring appeal of historic Madeira and legendary Port but also underscored their spanning over two centuries of winemaking mastery standing within collections of note. in a volcanic region. Among its treasures were three bottles of Blandy’s Boal 1815, a historic wine bottled Alsace and Loire: Age-Worthy Greats to commemorate the Battle of Waterloo, and a single Alsace was represented by Lot 23, which included bottle of the Blandy’s Boal 1860. Additional highlights magnums of Zind-Humbrecht 1993, a testament to included a Blandy’s Verdelho 1900, a Verdelho 1856 the region’s biodynamic viticulture and exceptional FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Au c t i o n ageing potential. The Loire Valley contributed saffron – a nod to ancient Greek winemaking traditions historical gems such as the Vouvray 1928 and 1947, and its reputed health benefits, “not to mention that showcased the age-worthiness of Chenin Blanc. the alleged aphrodisiac qualities,” said Burr with a Highlighting the Vouvray 1921 from Mark Bredif wry grin. This wine exemplified the innovation and as one of the standout offerings in this sale, Burr heritage of Greek viticulture. Offered as a charitable commented, “This Moelleux wine – a slightly sweet gift by the producer, the lot was auctioned in support style that typifies the Chenin Blanc-based wines of the of The Drinks Trust UK, adding a philanthropic touch era, though sadly now a rarity in an increasingly dry to this remarkable event. world – is truly extraordinary. It retains a remarkable freshness and vibrancy, while also showcasing layers of tropical fruit and wild honey notes. I feel genuinely honoured to have so many bottles of this fabulous wine to offer,” he mused. Croatia, Germany and Greece: Global Rarities Croatian heritage shone through with Lot 169, featuring Prošek 2018 from Korčula, while Germany’s Many of the 19th and early 20th century vintages had been recorked to maintain their quality. Enduring Legacy: The Power of Collectible Wines Such successes really do highlight both the resilience Egon Müller Scharzhofberg Spätlese and Auslese from and sophistication of the current global fine wine 2009 and 2010 highlighted the elegance of gracefully market in increasingly challenging times. The big ageing Riesling. A unique highlight of the auction ticket lots from iconic regions including Bordeaux, was the Sparkling Chimera 2014, the first bottling of Burgundy, Champagne, Napa Valley and Madeira an extraordinary Assyrtiko-Chardonnay blend from went to prove the enduring economic power of Rhodes. Bottle-fermented and infused with pure collectible wines at auction. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 87

The results of the Grand Chiswick Wine Auction align with these trends, showcasing an increased demand for fine and rare wines, particularly those with impeccable provenance. With a core focus on unearthed collectibles, Burr’s meticulously curated lots highlighted the fine wine category's growing status not merely as a luxury indulgence, but as a serious and sophisticated investment asset. Wine as an Alternative Asset Class In recent years, wine has gained worldwide recognition as an alternative asset class. Rare bottles such as the Château Latour 1959 and historic Madeira vintages are sought after not just for their unique tasting profiles, but for their long-term value potential. Collectors view these wines as tangible assets that can markedly appreciate over time, much like fine art or Without doubt, the global wine auction market has witnessed significant growth in recent times, with global live and online wine auctions reaching an impressive $524 million in 2022 according to the ‘World of Fine Wine’, of which $79 million came from online sales. Despite the trials of oversupply from standout vintages in regions such as Napa Valley and Bordeaux, the fine wine investment market continues to thrive. While certain markets may face pricing pressures due to abundant stock from exceptional vintages, fine wine as an asset class remained strong, with experts forecasting a robust recovery and continued growth in 2025. 88 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

rare antiques. Fine wine, with its inherent scarcity and FINE Au c t i o n historical value, has proven itself to be a safe haven during periods of economic uncertainty, drawing interest from collectors and investors alike. Auction Trends: Insights into Market Demand A closer look at the auction lots themselves helped provide valuable insights into the current state of wine market economics. Without a doubt, the most soughtafter bottles, particularly those with a rare pedigree or notable provenance, were seen to be driving the highest bids with visible runs on treasured gems. Wines from prestigious regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa Valley continued to fetch top dollar, with bidders willing to pay a premium for bottles that are prized for their quality, are difficult to source or have unique ageing potential. For example, rare Bordeaux bottles like the Château Lafite Rothschild 1961, which reached record-breaking auction prices, exemplified the growing demand for wines with a proven track record of ageing gracefully. As wine auctions continue to cater to a global market, pricing trends will reflect the ongoing evolution of wine as a sought-after luxury asset. Wine is no longer solely viewed as a consumable product; it is now an investment, a luxury asset and a cultural symbol. Niche Markets and Emerging Regions increasing diversification of the wine market. As wine collectors become more sophisticated, the demand for hard-to-find wines from less traditional regions is on the rise. Consequently, this trend is reshaping the auction market, with collectors expanding their portfolios to include regional varieties and indeed vintages that may have been overlooked in the past. The growing interest in wines from regions such as the Balkans, which offer distinctive and as yet relatively undiscovered profiles, further exemplifies how the wine auction industry is evolving and attracting new buyers into the fold. Auctions Shape Wine Economics While Bordeaux and Burgundy wines dominate The role of auction houses in wine economics cannot the high-end market, the auction featured wines be overstated. With experts like Christopher Burr MW from niche markets, such as Californian wines from Beaulieu Vineyard and emerging regions, such as Prošek from Croatia. curating these rare collections, auction houses are poised to play a pivotal role in driving both market demand and pricing trends. Their ability to identify and present sought-after lots to potential buyers These burgeoning terroirs are certainly starting to has a direct impact on the direction of the fine wine capture the attention of collectors, reflecting the market. They also serve as trusted intermediaries, FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 89

bidding, auctioneers are proactively contributing to the overall success and growth of the fine wine sector. A Cultural and Economic Intersection The Grand Chiswick Wine Auction represents more than just a marketplace for rare bottles – it is a microcosm of the broader economic shifts occurring in the luxury goods sector. Wine is no longer solely viewed as a consumable product; it is now an investment, a luxury asset and a cultural symbol. As the market for fine wine continues to evolve, auctions like this will play an integral role in shaping the future of the industry. From Churchillian Champagnes and Napa greats to emerging regional varieties, the world of wine auctions continues to grow, offering collectors and investors alike a chance to participate in this dynamic and increasingly valuable market. In the end, it is this very intersection of culture, investment and the truly unique appeal of collectible wines that will ensure that wine auctions continue to Christopher Burr MW 90 capture the imagination and buying power of wine ensuring that wines with impeccable provenance enthusiasts, worldwide. “Each bottle carries its own and history receive the attention they deserve and, story of craftsmanship, tradition and the timeless with the presence of knowledgeable wine experts, allure of fine wine, offering a rare chance to taste the collector experience is only enhanced. In shaping and truly experience history in a glass,” concluded consumer preferences and guiding the direction of Christopher Burr MW. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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FINE Personality Kamal Malik MS A journey he won’t want to end Text: Bhisham Mansukhani | Photos: Kamal Malik MS T he brilliant wine professional responsible for the most celebrated achievement in modern India’s wine story is as unassuming as his remarkable journey is ambitious. Certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) in Austria in August 2024, Kamal Malik is India’s first Master Sommelier, and the 278th MS worldwide. He reflects on his journey, its milestones, and the thing that preoccupies him far more than the high vinous honour he has received – the road ahead. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 93

Some of the most inspirational success stories begin innocuously with no expectations or ambitions of grandeur, just an earnestness and genuine passion. fondly recalled that he tasted his first ever wine – Hugel Gentil from Alsace – during a training session with Sanjay Menon. Vikram cajoled Kamal to join him at Taj Rambagh Palace in Jaipur. Which is where his love for wine had to share space with Sajitha, a young food and beverage colleague from South India who later became his wife. Vikram shared insights on how to make a proper ‘wine list’ that catalogued different types of wines across countries, regions and producers. They collaborated to create a very unique list for the Palace Cellar – one that covered 150 wines at a time when most lists offered at most a few dozen – and it was fittingly bound in regal red silk. A copy of this masterpiece adorns the shelves of the FINE archives. Some of the most inspirational success stories begin with earnestness and genuine passion, not expectations or ambitions of grandeur. That was the simple premise for a trajectory that has culminated in a watershed moment for Indian wine professionals. Knowledge was the primary spur for Kamal long before his palate became acquainted with wine. When he first stepped into the world of hotels armed with a degree in hotel management from IHM Chandigarh, wine wasn’t even a top-of-mind pursuit for Kamal – he was a teetotaller. He resisted the many temptations of university and chose to spend his time in the library in the company of voluminous books like the World Atlas of Wine and Sotheby’s World Wine Encyclopaedia. Though wine was introduced in the second year of his degree, there were no tastings back in the day. It was knowledge that set him apart from his peers and his first job was as bartender at the soon-to-open Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur. Vikramaditya Singh, a certified sommelier, was appointed as Food & Beverage Director and he mentored Kamal into the world of wine. Kamal 94 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

the Maldives assignments were the greatest source of would stand out in India even today, but also learning learning. He could proudly claim a ‘working’ knowledge of about each wine to the extent that it could be presented nearly all of these wines and he hosted close to 200 wine to the guests. Personally, the Palace Cellar list was a major dinners in that cellar – it felt like a significant step in the landmark for me. I was the only one who could locate the right direction. Notably, Kamal found that the wines in the wines in the cellar and talk about them to the guests – my initiative was appreciated and I felt more valuable.” Maldives were more refreshing and vibrant compared to the same labels back in India – an observation that made Kamal and Sajitha next chose to step into the BPO world in him embrace the importance of wine storage. the Millenium city, Gurgaon – it offered more money and His purple run did not wrongfoot Kamal, who continued more time for themselves. But Vikram ‘rescued’ Kamal back to hospitality when he invited Kamal to join his team at the Taj Exotica in the Maldives. Sajitha joined him in this new location that they had to look for on a map! to train his sights on the most critical pillar of a successful career in wine – education. Moving on from Vikram’s tutelage, he decided to pursue the WSET pathway and enrolled for Intermediate Level 2 in Mumbai. He was Kamal married Sajitha in 2007. As per company policy, a the highest achiever and went on to become the proud married couple could not work in the same department recipient of the 1st WSET CIVC Champagne Scholarship. of the hotel. She made the sacrifice and allowed Kamal to This earned him the opportunity to visit a wine region for pursue his passion for wine – the world of wine thanks her! the very first time – he explored Champagne vineyards When Kamal joined Waldorf Astoria Maldives and Conrad Rangali Island Maldives, the climb only got steeper. Curating the Palace Cellar list felt like it happened a long FINE Personality “The challenge was not just compiling a selection that and houses and met the people who make a wide range of cuvées. He was also invited to Château de Beaucastel for a harvest and winemaking internship. time ago when he was put in charge of a cellar of 3,500 His experience in Mumbai convinced him that it was wines. Kamal admits that he was sometimes overwhelmed better to pursue wine certifications abroad – the choice of by the sheer number of wines available, but believes that wines was better, the bottles weren’t ‘cooked’, the training FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 95

Photo: FINE Wine & Champagne India was excellent and the outlook was broader. He chose Hong Kong because it was visa-free and quickly wrapped up the WSET Advanced Certificate (level 3) in Wines & Spirits with Distinction. Sonny Cheung, his manager, suggested the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) courses and introduced him to Tommy Lam, who conducted the Certified course in Hong Kong. Kamal was one of only five in a group of 40 to clear the exam. “This was transformational for me – I realised that this pathway was more relevant as a source of knowledge and skill. Its on-trade, hands-on focus was what I wanted to master.” At this point, Kamal made CMS his primary focus because it was an intelligent pathway that connected theoretical knowledge with the practical experience of wines. His son, Samar, was ready to go to school, forcing a move from the resort island. Keen to stay in the country that he knew well, Kamal chose to switch roles and work for MMI, 96 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA a distribution company. “I became the salesman who used to sell to me in my previous job as sommelier.” Eight years on, he believes he made the right decision. Anyone familiar with the CMS and WSET programs would know that the next levels are not a walk in the park. Kamal breezed through the WSET Diploma Level 4 with Merit, but he needed an extra attempt to clear the CMS Advanced Level 3 certification – his theory wasn’t good enough. During the pandemic, CMS invited Kamal to join the certification process for the coveted title of Master Sommelier. It was here, for the first time, that he experienced a defining failure. “Hotels are very hectic and leave little time to study the vast scope of this very difficult certification, where nothing is ‘out of syllabus’. I failed my first attempt and this repeated in the next attempts. I began to think that it was time to stop.” But Sajitha was unequivocally supporting and encouraged Kamal

to better himself – “if you quit, you can never succeed.” In August 2024, he summited the steepest challenge for an international wine professional and was pronounced India’s first Master Sommelier at the ceremony in Austria. Kamal’s vinous journey is far from complete. He remarks with bemused weariness, “The MS team at the award ceremony told me that that I need to study harder and learn even more now that I am a Master Sommelier. The pursuit of learning in the wine realm never ends.” The road ahead entails a newly minted role as a mentor. “I’ve demonstrated what needs to be done to overcome the challenges to become a Master Sommelier, starting at the beginning and building up from there. I believe that I have to help develop and empower young sommeliers.” Unsurprisingly, Kamal’s 10-year-old has taken to reading the many wine books on dad’s shelf. “At dinner time, Samar described the Solera system to us,” a proud father tells us. FINE Personality Curating the Palace Cellar list seemed distant when he took charge of a 3,500-bottle cellar. He proudly had ‘working’ knowledge of nearly all these wines and hosted almost 200 wine dinners there - it was a significant step up and felt like the right direction. Kamal concludes, “I am India’s first, but definitely not last, Master Sommelier. I want to hold the door open for more sommeliers to come in, and when they do, to hold their hand through this obstacle course and groom them to the highest standards of wine proficiency.” A master’s work is never done! > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 97

Shopper's 100 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Paradise

FINE Store Text: Ritu and Rajiv Singhal | Photos: Galeries Lafayette A trip to the fashion, culture and gourmet capital of the world would be incomplete without a pilgrimage to this historic landmark: when in Paris, Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussman in the 9th arrondissement is a must-see for all, including celebrities and royalty. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 101

Photo: Rajiv Singhal Spread across 70,000 square meters, the maze of three buildings with 18 floors houses merchandise ranging from haute couture to accessories, cosmetics, jewellery, home decor and gourmet foods. Around 3,000 staff members present 3,500 brands to the 35 million visitors (more than the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre combined) that walk through its doors annually. In 1894, the cousins Théophile Bader and Alphonse Kahn from Alsace opened their very first store of only 70 square meters at the corner of rue La Fayette and rue de la Chaussée d’Antin in the vicinity of the Garnier Opera House and the grand boulevards. The success of this haberdashery store fuelled their expansion plans. Within a decade, more stores and spaces were acquired, including the building on Boulevard Haussman that houses the “ “ When in Paris, Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussman in the 9th arrondissement is a must-see for all, including celebrities and royalty. 102 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA present-day flagship store which is home to the world’s most renowned fashion brands, who have ensured that their presence is unique. Architects Georges Chedanne and Ferdinand Chanut created the legendary Coupole – the art nouveau stained glass dome that stands 43 metres above the ground. A

FINE Store more recent attraction is a nine-metre long Glass Walkway that is suspended under the Coupole at a height of 16 metres – many queue up to experience this ‘selfie’ point. Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann is reinventing the shopping experience, offering each visitor a unique stress-free experience with a wide range of services that are designed for your comfort. With hands-free shopping, you have the option to collect your purchases from a single point, so that you can stroll through the floors unencumbered! Experience made-to-measure elegance with the personal shoppers team, who are dedicated to making your every whim their command. Based on your desires, they select exceptional pieces to enhance your silhouette and reflect your personality. Photo: Rajiv Singhal Take advantage of the Le Concierge desks to respond to all your requests: information, taxis, personalized assistance, setting up payment cards or gift cards, and deliveries of your prized purchases... Through haussmann.galerieslafayette.com, you can geolocate your favourite brands, the nearest restaurant or book an activity. International shoppers can benefit from a very cost-effective shopping experience and process immediate, paperless VAT refunds through dedicated terminals in the Tax-Free zone or in the comfort of private salons. The UPI payment option for Indian customers is a first for France. For gourmet lovers and gourmands, an entire building has been dedicated. Le Gourmet, a very important part of the Galeries Lafayette offering since 1990, puts “ Galeries Lafayette is reinventing the shopping experience, offering each visitor a unique stress-free experience with a wide range of services that are designed for your comfort. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 103 “

Photo: Rajiv Singhal together products ranging from fresh produce, seafood, meat, cheese and dairy to bread, pastry, chocolate and wine that celebrate the makers – the artisans, houses and brands. You can explore and treat yourselves to a carefully curated selection of the finest products at what is reputed to be one of the most famous food courts in the world. Let the aromas guide you through the aisles and let the other senses join in for guided tastings. Enjoy the incredible talent of the greatest artisans of taste. With more than 20,000 references, your taste buds will continue to travel! In collaboration with the Ferrandi Paris culinary school, cooking classes and workshops are regularly offered for those visitors who are keen to learn more. And if time is not a constraint, you can enjoy a wide range of culinary delights at the cafes and restaurants, some powered by internationally acclaimed chefs. The best of French gastronomy is celebrated here every day. The Paris icon prides itself on a global reputation and has expanded its footprint with a network of 67 stores in France and several countries around the world – a flagship store in Mumbai is expected to be launched later in 2025. The founders’ vision of daring to innovate, passion for clients and taste for excellence has been upheld for the last 130 years – Galeries Lafayette embodies French elegance and hospitality. > Wine Gate is an innovative bar with seating ‘under’ the Coupole. Guests enjoy amazing views as they choose from over 100 labels of Champagne and wines from around the world. The offer is by-the-glass to enjoy – with the option to buy the bottles to take away. Guests can be guided in their choice of wine. Each glass of wine served has a QR code offering information about the estate, vineyard, vintage and tasting notes. Videos and even augmented reality tours of the cellars and estates can be accessed. A pairing dish is proposed for each wine listed, in case the guest wishes to enjoy the food – the menu has been devised by Chef Tom Vickers. Wine Gate is an invitation to discover and enjoy the world’s greatest wines. 104 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Store L La Cave's Democratic Universe a Cave is the ultimate address in Paris for all wine lovers – from amateurs to connoisseurs and collectors. The 450 square metre area on the first floor of Lafayette Gourmet has been developed as a dedicated wines and spirits space by Duclot, the fine wine merchant historically rooted in Bordeaux since 1886. up – locks and alarms are eschewed. And when you seem in need of attention, there are 17 members of staff, including experienced sommeliers, who can communicate in five languages (French, English, Chinese, Spanish and Portuguese) to guide you. Over 3,800 references of wines, champagnes and spirits – carefully selected by a dedicated buying team – are displayed on well-laid out shelves that don’t cramp the customer. The spacious layout allows patrons to walk around comfortably without the fear of bumping into a very expensive bottle. Le Cave is open to all and caters to the wine needs of a very wide range of customers. The wines range from €7.50 to several thousand euros for a bottle. Opening hours are long – 9.30 am to 9.30 pm all days of the week. And if this still doesn’t suit you, a selection of wines, spirits and champagnes can be ordered online. There's never a quiet moment. Customers are encouraged to browse the wines in the well-marked regional sections and are free to pick them The Duclot network has long standing and privileged links with wineries, supply partners and stores, and trades FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 105

Photo: Rajiv Singhal several million bottles. La Cave leans on this to be able to offer the big guarantee on traceability of each bottle and optimal storage conditions. All bottles are sourced from the winery direct, no intermediaries, no secondary purchases. Clearly the main focus is the incredible range of Bordeaux wines – grands crus, confidential estates, exclusives, winemaker vintages, large formats… all the diversity of the Bordeaux terroir is available. With almost 1,200 wine labels from the region, this is the most beautiful selection of Bordeaux wines in the world. The Bordeauxthèque is the sanctum sanctorum. The greatest grand crus are showcased in their glory – the classified châteaus line the ‘left bank’ and the ‘right bank’ with Château Yquem taking the centre of the display. The collection is further accentuated by top vintages (including rare vintages dating back to the 19th century) and large format bottles, which range from a 200 ml piccolo to a 15 litre Nebuchadnezzar. For some old and rare vintages, the corks could have been replaced at the winery clinics. Photo: Rajiv Singhal The Champagne cellar is very beautifully designed with the large houses and the most talented grower artisans taking place of pride – in many formats including large 106 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Store formats specially for Christmas. While it’s commonplace to find rare and prestigious labels, there is the opportunity to discover gems from smaller producers. The best wines of Burgundy, Rhône, Loire, Alsace from France and other world wines and spirits are also at your fingertips. You can choose home delivery across Europe. International buyers can claim tax free, and shipping across continents is available based on the customs rules of the destination. A few years ago, La Cave carved out a bar where you can sit and enjoy a wine by-the-glass offer with cheese, charcuterie, pâte, as well as caviar. In a list that changes every month, there are 14 wines – four whites, four reds, one rosé, three champagnes (no sparkling wines) and a mystery/ discovery wine. The Grands Cru selection offer another two whites, four reds and a Champagne – just in case you are missing your daily dose of Mouton Rothschild or Haut Brion. In the last decade, drawing on the strategic partnership between Galeries Lafayette and Duclot, La Cave has established its credentials as the definitive wine retail destination in Paris. You don’t even have to utter the magic words, ‘Open Sesame’. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 107

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FINE Spotlight SPOTLIGHT Dubai FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 109

R ising like a mirage from the sands of the Arabian Peninsula, Dubai stands as a testament to human ambition and architectural wonder. Bordering the azure waters of the Persian Gulf and the endless desert, it is the jewel in the United Arab Emirates’ crown. The city struck oil in the sixties and the world took notice of its meteoric rise. Visionary leadership from the Al Makhtoum family has been the catalyst for many pioneering initiatives that have transformed Dubai into an international hub for finance, innovation, scientific research and tourism. What was once a quiet fishing village around the Dubai Creek has transformed in just a few decades into a global metropolis of superlatives – home to the world’s tallest building, largest mall, and most luxurious hotels. 110 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Tradition and ultramodern ambition balance each other in a captivating duality. Dhows still sail the creek as they have for centuries, while futuristic skyscrapers pierce the clouds in the immediate neighbourhood. Sundrenched beaches vie for space on the coastline with expansive manmade islands. Entertainment options inside climate-controlled havens defy imagination and keep getting bigger and bolder – from indoor ski slopes to aquariums to desert safaris. Over 150 nationalities co-exist in Dubai, which is viewed by many as the most progressive Emirate, and they create a kaleidoscope of customs, languages and cuisines. This multi-cultural tapestry is the foundation of Dubai’s vibrant and now internationally acclaimed dining scene. With authentic flavours, innovative concepts and best practices, decorated world-class chefs have veered the focus away from culinary gymnastics and over-the-top extravagance to create a gastronomic paradise that rivals any culinary capital in the world. >

For Swedish chef Bjorn Frantzen, it all started with a steak, served with French fries and béarnaise… The decision to bring his boundarypushing minimalistic Nordic cuisine to the very opulent Atlantis The Palm seemed incongruous, but revealed fascinating parallels between Scandinavian and Middle Eastern traditions, particularly in preservation techniques necessitated by harsh climates. FZNs 27 seats are spread over two floors. Clean line furniture crafted from pale woods and natural stone reinforce the Scandinavian connect. Geometric patterns in the ceiling reference Islamic design. The central firepit, where much of the cooking happens, is a feature that connects Viking cooking and Bedouin tradition. Kitchen timers buzz at 5:30 a.m. A row of century-old wooden barrels holds Koji – a fungus at the heart of Nordic-Asian fermentation – that requires stirring every four hours regardless of human convenience. Ingredients can spend months undergoing transformation before reaching diners’ plates, creating nuanced depths of taste. ‘Carrot, 120 Days’ is a manifestation of the humble root vegetable, sourced from an organic farm in the Emirates mountains, that is sealed in beeswax and aged for months to develop a complexity rivalling the finest protein and served with preserved lemon (a Middle-Eastern staple) and Swedish brown butter aged in the same manner as traditional Scandinavian surströmming. FINE Spotlight FZN BY BJÖRN FRANTZÉN As the multi-room journey unfolds, diners move from bite-sized servings to more substantial courses and back again, creating a natural rhythm. Servers step in as cultural translators to navigate diners through the conceptual framework of the tasting menu. The food is pure class with a balanced taste structure, refinement and individuality. FZN focuses on intellectual curiosity and technical excellence. What’s on the plate is a dialogue between two cultures that mastered innovation in preservation. FZN by Björn Frantzén @ Atlantis The Palm Jumeirah +971 4 426 2626 www.restaurantfzn.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 111

TRESIND STUDIO Twenty seats in an intimate rooftop dining room – minimalist design with neutral tones – set the culinary theatre for the visionary chef Himanshu Saini whose narrative exploration of Indian cuisine begins not with a menu, but with a question: What if tradition were merely a starting point rather than a destination? In his culinary laboratory, that is ranked amongst the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and has two Michelin stars, locally sourced organic ingredients are amplified to showcase flavours, both familiar and new, through a creative lens. Guest expectations are systematically dismantled and reconstructed through technique, imagination and precision. Each dish in the ‘Rising India’ tasting menu, that spans tastes and flavours from all four compass points of India across 17 courses and is widely acclaimed for originality, is artfully plated and painstakingly presented as a provocation to delight. It is Himanshu’s ode to the culinary legacy of his homeland. The ‘saffron risotto with lamb kofta’ marries Italian methodology with Indian aromatics, creating a cross-cultural dialogue on a single plate. At the chef’s table, the culinary wizards engage guests in the context – cultural history, regional significance, personal memory, or conceptual inspiration – of the dish to create intellectual engagement and transform dining into immersive performance art. Italian mixologist, Dom Carella, runs a botanic bar program and uses unused byproducts to bridge the gap between what is known, and what is yet to be discovered. The wines are carefully selected so that they 112 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA can play in harmony with the complex spice profiles. Tresind Studio is a diligent thesis on the evolution of Indian cuisine – where it has been, where it stands currently, and most importantly, where it might venture next. Reservations require both planning and persistence – slots disappear within minutes of opening – creating mythical scarcity among the gourmet meal fanatics in Dubai and beyond. Tresind Studio @ St. Regis Gardens, Palm Jumeirah +971 4 455 9989 www.tresindstudio.com

FINE Spotlight STAY BY YANNICK ALLENO Set in a colonial-style property, the Dubai outpost of Yannick Alleno’s culinary empire offers an experience that is reverential and pushes boundaries. Awarded two Michelin stars for three consecutive years, Stay builds on Yannick’s success with Michelin stars. He has a suit of 14 stars in France. Moroccan-born designer Khalid Shafar has struck a masterful balance – sophisticated but not stuffy, opulently luxurious without ostentation, and form and function in perfect harmony. Yannick’s signature ‘extraction’ technique – the concentration of flavours to their purest essence – takes centre stage. The ethereal ‘mushroom consommé’ is a prime example, where the humble wild fungi foraged from the Al Hajar mountains are transformed into a crystal-clear liquid of extraordinary depth and complexity. Or the signature ‘date soufflé’ – an inspired technical tour de force that transforms the most available local fruit into an impossibly airy cloud of sweetness – shows the crosscultural dialogue at its most delicious. And exemplifies Yannick’s respect for local ingredients and traditions while applying transformative techniques that intensify rather than mask natural qualities. The menu is not just classic French with token Arabic influences, but reflects a deep understanding of the influence of heat, spice and acidity in the desert climate. The ‘salt-crusted local sea bass with saffron extraction’ creates a microclimate around the fish, allowing it to essentially steam in its own concentrated essence. Diners can create personalized tasting journeys – ‘Emotions’ or ‘Experience’. The warm and personable yet attentive and professional service staff guide them with their encyclopaedic knowledge of techniques and ingredients. In Dubai, spectacle is often prioritised over substance. Yannick has stayed focused on purpose. Every element in the meal has been considered not for its appeal, but for how it will contribute to a deeper understanding of taste, place and culinary fundamentals. Stay by Yannick Alleno @ One & Only The Palm, Palm Jumeirah +971 4 440 1010 www.oneandonlyresorts.com/the-palm/ FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 113

ROW ON 45 Acclaimed British chef Jason Atherton has carved out this intimate culinary experience in a penthouse-inspired dining room (that seats only 22 guests) with an open kitchen on the 45th floor of The Grosvenor House. The name combines the acronym ‘Refinement Of Work’ and the stunning location. Very soon after opening, Row on 45 made it to the Michelin guide – and went straight in with two stars. The elevator ride builds anticipation as guests step into an unrivalled realm of opulence, 45 floors above the city. The Ottoman-inspired archways frame Dubai’s skyline. Handcrafted Sicilian majolica tiles line the kitchen. The glaze of the ceramic plates, made by a Palestinian artisan collective, mimics the desert landscape. 114 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Jason’s 17-course tasting menu showcases a playful fusion of flavours that are central to his travels and discoveries. It is so bespoke that it is unveiled only as the pre-booked guests sit down, never in advance. Led by the stars – chefs and sommeliers – each course is presented with a unique anecdote and a story of provenance and passion. The signature ‘sea urchin custard with preserved lemon and sea succulents’ is the bridge between Sicily and the Emirates. The ‘slow-cooked octopus with smoked paprika and Santorini capers’ shows how chefs respect tradition. Tableside preparations add to the theatrics. A unique collection of fine and rare wines is focused on family-owned vineyards. The sommeliers passionately describe them in such vivid detail that one can almost smell the cedar trees surrounding the vines! Row on 45 offers a moment of perspective, a rare opportunity to see culinary techniques through fresh eyes, elevated in every sense of the word. As moonlight bathes the Gulf, the boundary between earth and sky seems to fade away when the taste buds reach new heights. Row on 45 @ Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina +971 56 832 4545 www.rowon45dubai.com

FINE Spotlight AL MUNTAHA As you step into the Gault & Millau awarded and Michelin-starred Al Muntaha on the 27th floor of the iconic Burj Al Arab, you are greeted by a view of the seemingly endless Arabian Gulf merging into the sky in a seamless horizon. Its maritime settings are mirrored in the elegant interiors. By day, sunlight dances across the dining room; by night, the brilliantly lit Palm Jumeirah appears like a constellation below. Welcome to chef Saverio Sbaragli’s theatre in the clouds. He draws on his Italian and French culinary heritage to orchestrate sensory experiences that reflect his commitment to bold flavour architecture. Each dish on a concise menu is a statement of intent – modern Mediterranean expressions with textural contrasts. The ‘ravioli del plin’ is deceptively simple: handmade parcels are stuffed with black truffle and guinea fowl and bathed in a light Parmesan cream. One bite unravels the disciplined technique that lies beneath. For those keen to experience the creative culinary action up close, the Chef’s Table offers a front-row seat. The meaningfully curated wine list deserves special mention – the cellar has been stocked since the opening in 1999 and includes carefully selected vintages and rare finds. A team of sommeliers are on hand to guide the diners through regional expressions and prestigious labels with equal enthusiasm. The Champagne selection has been praised for its precise balance between historically reputed houses and acclaimed vignerons. hospitality that focuses on ‘greatness’ and arguably the most spectacular vista in Dubai – absolutely. Al Muntaha has maintained its position as more than just a much-awarded restaurant with a to-die-for view; it is a gastronomic destination where the cuisine stands as tall as the visionary sail-shaped building that houses it. Is it expensive? Unquestionably. Is it worth it? For a culinary experience that combines technical excellence, quality ingredients, Al Muntaha @ Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah +971 800 323232 www.bit.ly/al-muntaha FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 115

ORFALI BROS The Syrian siblings – Mohammad, Wassim, and Omar – realised a dream and founded this bistronomy concept that has evolved from a local secret to one of the finest and most highly-awarded restaurants not just in Dubai, but the world. The unassuming storefront belies the revolution brewing within. A light, airy and unpretentious space is dominated by a striking, two-storey open kitchen that allows the connect with chefs. Industrial concrete floors contrast with Damascus mother-ofpearl inlay tables salvaged from the family home. The menu reflects the founders’ roots, extensive travels in search of culinary wonders, and the multicultural avant garde 116 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA local setting. Original, playful Mediterranean small plates with global influences are at its core. The signature ‘Come with Me to Aleppo’ transforms humble kibbeh into a multi-textured exploration of memory and displacement. The playful ‘Guess What?’ corn bomb introduces an element of surprise – the sweet corn custard in a trompe de l’oeil challenging expectations of even the most jaded diners. In the kitchen, the Orfalis frequently erupt – rapid-fire Arabic punctuated by some French words – this creative friction challenges and refines each other’s ideas. Their mantra is to give customers ‘guaranteed satisfaction – no stress, no fuss.’ The guests’ dining experience is backed by endless curiosity, personal perseverance, and brilliant storytelling – Mohammed often comes to the table to detail how the dish came to be. Boundaries are constantly pushed to discover new flavours – the brothers believe that rules are meant to be bent and broken and choreograph their masterclass based on taste, texture and ingredients. Their cuisine invokes a sense of creativity, pride and joy. They are not just chefs, they are a family. Orfali Bros is about accessibility. Price points remain reasonable, service strikes the perfect balance between precision and friendliness, and the overall experience is very inclusive. Every day is a celebration of the journey. Orfali Bros Bistro @ WASL 51 Mall, Jumeirah 1 +971 4 2592 477 www.orfalibros.com

whole reflects the Giorgio Armani approach to hospitality. evolving menu, so that freshness and flavour don’t surrender to trends. Located in Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, Armani Ristorante is the often awarded and Michelin-starred Italian outpost at the Armani Hotel Dubai. Like the fashion empire that bears its name, it pursues perfection. True artistry unfolds on the plate. Chef Giovanni Papi’s inherited passion and innovative talent brings to life the essence of Italy – showcased in the luxurious symphony of traditional Italian flavours and contemporary flair – to leave gastronomes wanting more. The immaculately dressed teams cover the dining room with ballet-like precision – present when needed, invisible when not. The sommelier’s selections offer regional terroir and the extensive Champagne list of more than 150 carefully selected cuvées enhance the dining experience. Centre stage is its glass-fronted open kitchen, where chefs may be observed meticulously plating dishes, while floor-toceiling windows frame downtown Dubai’s urban tapestry. The tables on the expansive terrace offer patrons prime ringside views of the Dubai Fountain in poetic motion, and are reputed to be the most romantic tables in the city. Sleek interiors in warm caramel and muted gold complement the marble floors. The understated sophistication of the ‘Risotto alla Milanese’ arrives at the table glowing with the warmth of saffron, each grain perfectly al dente, topped with delicate shreds of ossobuco – a textbook execution of Lombardy’s signature dish that presents intense depth of flavour. Or the simple and elegant ‘La Sfera’, gold-leaf burrata, Black Angus carpaccio, glazed blue lobster… Seasonal ingredients are central to the ever- FINE Spotlight ARMANI RISTORANTE Armani Ristorante champions clarity of flavour and respect for tradition. And impresses with its confidence as it prioritises substance over spectacle and delivers a quintessentially Dubai dining experience without pretention. Armani Ristorante @ Armani Hotel Burj Khalifa +971 4888 3666 www.armanihotels.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 117

BOCA A revolution is brewing at Boca, an awardwinning Michelin Green starred modern Spanish restaurant in the heart of Dubai’s bustling financial district. Founder Omar Shihab follows a ‘people, planet, profit’ approach and envisioned a world class farm-to-table ‘go local’ restaurant that had a very strong commitment to sustainability – so much so that it has even published its ‘sustainability manifesto’. The funky and rustic dining room itself offers initial hints: reclaimed materials, wine crates for bottle storage, energy-efficient lighting, levellers cut from cork, tables crafted from sustainable wood. But the real statement is the menu which reads like a comprehensive guide to locavore dining in a faraway desert. In a metropolis that traditionally imports nearly everything, ingredients are sourced primarily from local UAE farms and regional producers. Maps on the menu trace ingredients to their origins: tomatoes from Abu Dhabi greenhouses, seafood from Fujairah’s waters, herbs from vertical farms within city limits… This is exemplified by the grilled octopus – locally caught, prepared with house-made romesco sauce and dressed with microgreens grown less than 20 kilometres away. This is an ecosystem on a plate – a sign that sustainability in a desert isn’t oxymoronic but achievable. The wine cellars bring together over 250 producers and champion like-minded 118 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA organic, biodynamic and low-intervention producers besides embracing the oftenignored neighbouring Mediterranean regions: Lebanese mountains, Syrian coast, Moroccan slopes, Greek islands. Cocktails follow the same philosophy of respect for ingredients and awareness of provenance. Community engagement is a priority – workshops on sustainability, zero-waste cooking demonstrations, and partnerships with environment agencies transform the restaurant into an educational platform. Farmers and producers are frequently invited to connect and interact with consumers. The team embodies the core philosophy that conscious dining doesn’t need to sacrifice flavour, comfort or sophistication – locally sourced is great tasting and eliminates hefty import premiums to be bottom-line friendly! Boca @ Dubai International Financial Centre +971 4 323 1833 www.boca.ae

FINE Spotlight TAKAHISA Sushi master chef Takaaki Yokoyama and Wagyu master chef Hisao Ueda combined their first names to christen their restaurant, giving Dubai a truly Japanese fine dining experience. Its minimalist décor with Japanese art is inspired by upscale Tokyo diners. The sushi counter, crafted from a single block of hinoki wood, is Takaaki’s stage. With the rhythmic tapping of the knife and movements passed down through generations, he transforms glistening slabs of otoro into translucent petals. At the teppanyaki iron plate, Hisao showcases his theatrical flair and the Wagyu surrenders its essence to release an aroma that primes the senses for the tasting ahead, its marbled fat rendering down to a sizzling golden liquid. The omakase is the best showcase – the counter seat is the best to watch chefs address their tasks. Personalized attention is given to each diner – the chefs willingly adjust flavours and textures to individual preferences without compromising on originality. Opt for the signature nigiri with a whisper of house-aged soy or the theatrical flame-kissed Wagyu – each bite reveals a story of craftsmanship that transcends cultural boundaries. Rare seasonal ingredients are sourced. The chefs absolutely insist on quality and traceability of ingredients, sourcing seafood from the Toyosu fish market in Japan and the beef directly from trusted producers in Kobe. TakaHisa boasts a selection of rare and premium wines and sake which emphasize small-batch producers devoted to their craft, and create delightful pairings. Traditional age-old techniques blend with contemporary elegance and innovation to accentuate authentic flavours. The philosophy embraces perfect timing – knowing exactly when to act and when to let ingredients speak up. The experience nourishes both body and spirit through unwavering dedication to craft. TakaHisa @ Banyan Tree Dubai, Bluewaters Island +971 4 556 6688 www.takahisa.ae FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 119

LING LING The first impression of Ling Ling isn’t visual but aural – conversations, laughter and the clinking of glasses create an energy that pulls you through the moon gate entrance on the 23rd floor of Atlantis The Royal. This culinary destination doesn’t whisper; it announces itself confidently. What is a much sought after Asian dining destination by day morphs into one of Dubai’s most coveted social playgrounds by nightfall. This duality is so representative of Dubai itself – a city that preserves tradition while constantly reinventing its future. Ling Ling is Dubai’s social ecosystem captured in microcosm. Designed by Tihany Design, discrete zones were created that allowed the transition from dining to socialising. Hand-painted murals depicting Chinese mythology provide the narrative to the stylish setting, while the expansive terrace frames the 180-degree panoramic views of the Palm, the Arabian Sea and Dubai’s captivating skyline. 120 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Acclaimed for its fusion of modern Cantonese cuisine and stylish ambience, the must try signature dish is the crispy duck salad – the skin is brought to a glass-like brittleness, the succulent, tender meat tossed with fresh herbs and citrus that accentuate its richness. The sommeliers propose from a classic wine list that complements such divine dishes. The bar team approaches mixology with culinary sensibility. The Sakura Spritz brings cherry blossom elements to Japanese whiskey, creating a glass that is both visually striking and complex in flavour. Each drink is a mini production, garnished with dramatic flourishes, that insist on social media documentation. As night falls, the transformation accelerates – tables make way for designated dance areas, lighting dims, music volumes increase incrementally, and attention gravitates to the bar. The resident DJ guides the evening with eclectic soundtracks that create an alluring ambiance for wherever the night might lead. Ling Ling @ Atlantis The Royal, Palm Jumeirah +971 4 426 2600 www.linglingdubai.com

High Society represents the evolving nightlife in Dubai – a space where revelry and relaxation co-exist in equilibrium – and where stunning views, a vibrant atmosphere, great company and playful innovative bites come together to help create evenings that will live long in your memory. FINE Spotlight expectations with practiced efficiency, ensuring glasses remain filled and small plates appear just as previous ones have nothing left on them. High Society @ The Lana Dorchester, Business Bay +971 4 541 7755 www.dorchestercollection.com/dubai/the-lana/ HIGH SOCIETY As the sun begins its descent against downtown Dubai’s jagged skyline, a serene and picturesque poolside undergoes a metamorphosis into High Society – the city’s very exclusive (and newest) rooftop phenomenon with majestic Burj Khalifa views – quite simply ‘the place to be’. a menu of sophisticated small plates based on simple but authentic recipes. Delicate zucchini flowers are stuffed with ricotta and herbs, while the signature croque-caviar reinvents the French classic with decadent oceanic pearls. The food is for sharing, and to gather your loved ones around. Perched atop the recently opened Lana Dorchester, this is where Dubai’s many identities – as a business hub, a playground for tourists from around the world, and a haven for expatriates – converge. As night falls, the potent energy here shifts gears. Live music performances – carefully chosen to enhance rather than overwhelm – are the soundtrack for a very cosmopolitan social scene. The real showstopper is the very exciting Champagne library – a collection of 118 labels that range from the not-so-easy-to-get-yourhands-on icons to not-so-well-known growerproducers. The rising bubbles in the flutes catch the ambient lighting as the evening progresses, creating a golden glow that complements so well the stylish guests. Mixologists craft cocktails with theatrical flair – their signatures incorporate local elements and are dedicated to the sun-worshipping civilisations. Chef Jean Imbert, voted among the 50 Most Influential French People by Vanity Fair, crafts Service balances the fine line between attentiveness and intrusion, anticipating FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 121