C H A M P A G N E I N D I A FINE Grapes Who invented Champagne? & Photo: CIVC W I N E FINE History F I N E The Champagne Grapes TexT: Jean-Luc Barbier TexT: Bhisham Mansukhani C are two plausible answers to this often asked question. There For most, all the credit for the invention of Champagne goes hampagne is as delectable as it is surprising. Akin to the infinitesimal bubbles in crystal tulips of this sparkling ferment, there’s a bounty of Champagne facts that can give drinkers a moment of pause as they savour their favourite cuvée. There are as many interesting nuggets of these as there are styles. And one that gets most Champagne lovers every time is the number of grapes grown in Champagne. to the ‘Procureur’ of the Abbey of Hautvillers, Pierre Pérignon. For some, Champagne is a discovery by the English physician and scientist, Christopher Merret. Vine and wine historians are divided on the subject. The search for truth requires an examination of each of the two theses. At the outset, both of them are not prima facie convincing. One must go deeper Photo: Shutterstock into the subject and assemble the elements of the puzzle to arrive at an explanation. TEXT: Tyson Stelzer FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 36 The summer heatwave of 2019 burnt grapes on the vines. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE History PAGE 36 text: STILL Special The Other Flairs of Champagne Udit Singhal H text: Bhatia Dheeraj T he enchanting vineyards of Champagne come alive at harvest time with a sparkle of joyousness TEXT: Ch’ng Poh Tiong 37 FINE Grapes FINE Harvest PAGE 30 31 FINE Still Wine 30 istorically, the Champagne region made still wine from grapes first grown in the region in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, long before the saga of sparkling wine began. Sometime in the late 17th century, the first fermentation was evoking centuries of heritage. The usually muted canvas of the terrain is dotted with more than 100,000 migrant pickers who make the fabled soil deliberately continued and the wine was transferred from casks to strong glass bottles. It was not long before the sparkling wines of the Champagne region became very fashionable in of Champagne their temporary home, where they will work in the vineyards for three weeks. Now, in this era, forever more eclipsing the production of still wines. the beautiful sunshine, Champagne is at its liveliest. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 48 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Harvest PAGE 48 49 FINE Still Wine FINE Bubbles PAGE 42 43 PRESSORIA A Sensorial Voyage Champagne – The Science Behind the Bubbles FINE Museum 42 Text: Rajiv & Ritu Singhal N estled in the rolling slopes of vineyards dotted with historic Champagne houses in the grand cru terroir of Aÿ, stands a unique landmark. Deriving its name from two Latin words ‘praesentia’ (presence) and ‘sensōrum’ (of the senses), Pressoria is the realisation of a vision to create a multi-sensory experience concept around Champagne. The five senses – sight, touch, smell, sound and taste – take centre stage in the discovery of Champagne's richly tapestried cultural and historical heritage. Photo: Michaël Boudot Text: Gérard Liger-Belair 56 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 56 6 FINE Bubbles FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 57 66 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 66 FINE Museum 67
W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A FINE Contents F I N E PAGE 82 FINE Vigneron PAGE 88 FINE Co-operative 9 FINEEDITORIAL FINE Maison 104 FINE Event Photo: Shuttertock PAGE 96 Champagne at Versailles FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA PAGE 104 FINE Event Three FINE Decades 10 FINEANNIVERSARY FINE India Twelfth Anniversary 28 FINEHOLSTAINE Who am I? 36 FINEGRAPES The Champagne Grapes 42 FINEHARVEST Confessions of a Vigneron 48 FINESTILL WINE Still Special - The Other Flairs 56 FINEBUBBLES The Science Behind the Bubbles 64 FINEGADGET Coravin - Preserving Champagne 66 FINEMUSEUM Pressoria - A Sensorial Voyage 74 FINEAUCTIONS Champagnes with Exemplary Provenance 82 FINEVIGNERON Gaston Révolte 88 FINECO-OPERATIVE Nicolas Feuillatte T TexT: Ritu and Rajiv Singhal he ‘Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne’ is a world-renowned wine fraternity that celebrates the heritage, tradition, and excellence of Champagne. Its origins can be traced to 1656, making it one of the oldest French guilds. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 96 FINEMAISON Dom Perignon 105 104 FINEEVENT 116 FINESPOTLIGHT Champagne at Versailles Champagne FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 7
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FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Volume 14 Issue 2 Q2 2024 WRITERS Editor Rajiv Singhal Rajiv Singhal is a first generation entrepreneur, who studied Economics at Yale and simplifies access to the Indian market depuis 1993. He has pioneered activities in the luxury sector and built the market for wine – glass-by-glass. Appointed Officier de l’Ordre de Mérite (Luxembourg) and Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite (France), Rajiv is the Ambassador of Champagne to India and loves to challenge himself. Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited Chief Executive Ritu Singhal Editorial Radhika Tandon Contributor Bhisham Mansukhani Bordeaux Correspondent Ch’ng Poh Tiong Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul Digital Media Udit Singhal Photographs Hunesh Ajmani Administration Rakeysh Gautam Cover Photograph Getty Images Editorial Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in T: +91 9810008289 Statutory Information Press Registrar General of India no: DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098 Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001, India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, India. All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing India does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 8 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Ritu Singhal co-founded Delhi based Group Ritu in 1993 and is responsible for its luxury and publishing business. She trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay and as part of her voluntary work, set up a crafts bazaar to empower women artisans. Ritu is the first Dame Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne from India and is up for any gastronomic adventure as long as its vegetarian. Jean-Luc Barbier retired as Director General of Comité Champagne after a 37-year stint. He is President of the Champagne – UNESCO World Heritage Mission’s Scientific Council and teaches at Reims University. Trained as a lawyer in Strasbourg and Reims, Jean-Luc tirelessly protects the ‘universal value’ of Champagne and was conferred the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur in 2016. Gérard Liger-Belair has a PhD in Physical Sciences and is a Professor at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne since 2017. His interests include the science of bubbles and foams in Champagne and sparkling beverages. Author of award-winning science books, Gerard plays tennis in competition and walks a lot to find inspiration in contact with nature. Bhatia Dheeraj is a leading Sommelier who has worked at iconic properties around the world. He received the Judy Hurst Award in 2019, won the Ruinart Sommelier Challenge in 2017 and Best Sommelier at the World Gourmet Summit Singapore in 2011. Bhatia consulted for wine bars across Australia before joining The Lana Dorchester Collection in Dubai as Head of Wine. Anne-Laure Domenichini is the Communications Director for the Group Terroirs & Vignerons de Champagne, behind the Nicolas Feuillatte, Castelnau and Abelé 1757 brands. An award-winning journalist in the UK, she moved back to her native France in 2004 and has been working in – and for – Champagne since. Anne-Laure confesses to being self-obsessed by dramatic scenery and fine eating. Raphaella Holstaine is a luxury afficionado and Gurugram-based blogger. She is French, grew up in Strasbourg and has worked on three continents – Europe, Africa, and Asia. A coloured gems gemologist and GIA graduate, she has a luxury MBA from Shanghai (China) and Firenze (Italy). Raphaella draws graphic stories and writes poetry. Bhisham Mansukhani works at FINE Magazines India alongside a fine wine importer. With 15 years of experience in business journalism in wines, spirits and hospitality, he has focused on India’s nascent wine industry and travelled to wine regions in France, Australia, South Africa, Chile and Argentina. Bhisham explores cuisine and volunteers with student and rural communities. Udit Singhal works in Sustainable Finance in London. At 16, he founded Glass2Sand to convert glass waste into sand so that he could leave the world better than he found it. Appointed one of 17 United Nations Young Leaders for the SDGs in 2020 and the youngest in Forbes India’s 30 Under 30 cohort in 2023, Udit also pursues art, unwinds on the golf course, and looks after his family’s vineyards in Champagne. Tim Triptree MW is the International Director of Wine & Spirits at Christie’s London. An MBA in Wine Business Management, he became a Master of Wine in 2018. A Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Vintners and Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, Tim judges at international competitions and enjoys pairing wines with food that he experiences in his travels.
T hree decades ago, India was a country of about 850 million citizens. Graduates had a FINE Editorial Three Fine Decades Hobson’s choice – the civil services, engineering or medicine. Computer Science was only just beginning to make its way into school curriculums. The bureaucracy’s stronghold on the system was legendary. The government monopolised almost all goods and services – food, oil and gas, phone, travel – causing interminable waiting periods. Excruciating taxes and extortionary licensing discouraged private enterprise. Consumer goods were prohibited for import in ‘protectionist’ India. The economy was growing at a little over 1%. I was an outlier, deciding not to stay in the West to pursue the ‘American dream’. I had a firm belief in India’s untapped potential. A macroeconomic stabilisation and economic reforms package under obligation of multi-lateral agencies was being rolled out. The promise that India would embrace liberalisation presented a big opportunity – albeit laden with inordinate risk. With the support of my partner, who kindly lent her name to our first entrepreneurial endeavour, we ventured into uncharted territory. In those days, the spectre of tax authorities forced consumers of luxury to be extremely discreet. India’s tryst with wine had not yet begun – wine was taboo! The task of building a market for wine in whisky-guzzling India was ambitious and nothing short of monumental. No wonder our vision was written off by nearly everyone at the time. But we were resolute. As we began constructing the wine eco-system from the ground up, we confronted and overcame myriad challenges – navigating inconsistent policy, tackling regulatory hurdles, addressing market irregularities, establishing temperature-controlled distribution, educating consumers and making professionals relevant – whilst adhering to our very strict code of conduct. Today, as we raise a toast to these decades, we are proud of what we have achieved. This would not have been possible without the unstinted support of our team, our partners and most importantly, our consumers – who embraced this new world we dared them to explore. We are optimistic about the FINEr opportunities that lie ahead, ready to chart the course of our next chapter. Rajiv Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 9
The FINE Ambassadors' & High Commissioners' Table Our Twelfth Anniversary Dinner Text: RITU SINGHAL Photos: HUNESH AJMANI & SHIVAM BHATI 10 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Anniversary T he first day of June, two thousand twenty three. Access to the tenth floor of the majestic Leela Palace New Delhi was restricted. The much sought-after and award-winning Le Cirque was ‘closed’ to patrons and guests for a FINE occasion – the twelfth anniversary celebrations of FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine, India’s first and (still) only officially registered wine magazine. Since the FINE launch in 2011, the wine world has been wowed every year with a unique, one-of its kind presentation of world wines – the much-awaited FINE Ambassadors’ and High Commissioners’ Table. This year, thirteen Heads of Mission and their representatives came on board, each presenting a wine that was painstakingly selected for the evening. Australia, Champagne and Portugal maintained their perfect ten on ten attendance record at the FINE Table. They were joined by Austria, Canada, Chile, France, Germany, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary and Luxembourg. Estonia made its debut. Anupam Dasgupta, Area Vice President, The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts and General Manager, The Leela Palace New Delhi, and Atul Tiwari, Executive Assistant Manager Food & Beverage, very kindly agreed to our request to host the FINE Anniversary again this year at Le Cirque, our personal favourite fine dining restaurant. The friends of FINE and the friends of wine whom we had invited were greeted by the Le Cirque hostess at her tenth-floor lobby welcome desk and ushered into the Cellar Room – the designated Reception room. Guests had customary photographs taken against a largerthan-life image of the cover of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine on the photo-wall. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 11
I extended a special thanks to the Leela Palace, where another iconic FINE story was being written. Anupam joined me. “Our Palace shares its birth year with FINE India and we are delighted to celebrate our anniversaries together. We strive for excellence in your experiences and are committed to showcasing only the finest – just like our teams will do this evening.” On cue, the doors of the grand woodpanelled dining room of Le Cirque with its ringside view of the kitchen opened. The tables in a bespoke FINE formation took their names from the Le Cirque restaurant locations around the world – New York, Las Vegas, Dubai, Delhi, Mumbai and Bengalore. Endless platters of delicious, refreshing and artistically plated summer canapés were passed around to accompany the ‘Reception’ wines – this year both the white and red wine were from Europe. The ‘Reception’ white was the Lidérc Riesling 2022. Dr Mariann Erdo, Cultural Counsellor of the Embassy of Hungary, proposed the crisp dry white wine made by her father from their family’s estate just under the ruins of the Somló castle. “I am proud to showcase to you the diversity of Hungarian wine. Last year, I presented a world-renowned dessert wine at the end of our feast. This year, I have been catapulted into pole position with a special aperitif wine.” Alongside was the Cavino Nemea Agiorgitiko 2019 presented by Greece – one of the world’s ancient centres for wine and its trade. Yerassimos Lazaris, Minister Counsellor for Economic and Commercial Affairs at the Embassy of Greece, told us that this easy-drinking dark fruit-flavoured red wine laced with light and velvety tannins was designated as an appellation of origin – the system of stringent guidelines that was born in ancient Greece and has been embraced by the wine world. As Chief Executive of FINE Magazines India, I officially welcomed everyone. “This year marks 30 years of our thrilling journey as entrepreneurs – as we paved uncharted paths and opened some rather stubborn doors, we cemented our pioneering contributions with the support that we have been blessed with. Thank you for being so very kind. Yes, this FINE Table has become a much anticipated landmark on Delhi’s wine calendar.” 12 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Rajiv Singhal, Publisher of FINE India magazines, collated the 13 wines – one sparkling, five white, five red, one fortified and one dessert – and with Beverage Manager Ravi Batra and Sommelier Aman Pandey, seven wine flights were finalised to pair with the five-
We sat down to our pre-assigned seats. The first course Le Cirque Vegetables Garden with Truffle Dressing | Pickled Beetroot | Frosted Walnut | Crunchy Mix Veggies | Green Pea Mint Sorbet was beautifully plated on the equally beautiful Bernardaud plates customised with the ‘juggling joker’ pattern. We were (almost) reluctant to dig into this beautifully plated work of art! FINE Anniversary course menu covering signature dishes meticulously chosen by Executive Chef Karan Thakur and Sous Chef Vashisht. Two glasses were in front of us – one bore the Union Jack and the other, the flag of Estonia. This Baltic country, on the 59°N latitude, is way above the traditional wine belt bounds. But, in extreme conditions, enterprising Estonians have created a wine story in just the last decade. H.E. Katrin Kivi, Ambassador of Estonia, has been on a mission (with Group Ritu) to introduce fine Estonian produce to Indian connoisseurs. At the end of her term, she fulfilled her promise to show an Estonian wine at our FINE Table. Katrin presented Veinivilla Solaris 2021. “I proudly announce the global ‘premiere’ for this wine. It is a very exclusive medal winning wine – only 300 litres were produced.” Deputy British High Commissioner, Christina Scott, accompanied by the Agricultural Counsellor, Amber Chandler, rose to present the single vineyard Rathfinny Cradle Valley Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris 2018 from the chalks of the south east. Sussex county is also the resting place for Sheikh Din Muhammad, the gastronome who created ‘Chicken Tikka Masala’. Christina FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 13
proudly announced that wines from Great Britain are winning international competitions and are beneficiaries of climate change. “As you stroll in the garden on your plate, enjoy the light and delicious English wine. It is perfect for an English summer,” she quipped. I heard a pop – it was time for an exceptional treat from Champagne. Rajiv Singhal, who is also the Ambassador of Champagne, made it possible to present hand-crafted magnums of our own family’s Champagne Challiol & Charmetant for the first time in India. In 2018, the Singhal family became owners of vineyards in Champagne – the region felicitated our newest venture with ‘THE legendary vintage of the century’. Rajiv told us more about this special cuvée. “Our Champagne respects tradition and represents the unique connection between Champagne France, the British Royalty and Calcutta India. Our FINE friends know well that when we have company, it is obligatory to offer Champagne – and what could be better than a magnum!” Our next course was Roasted Butternut Squash Cappellacci | Amaretto Biscuit | Thyme Butter Emulsion | Pumpkin Seeds. Paired with two white wines from two sides of the Mosel – from Luxembourg and from Germany. H.E. Peggy Frantzen, Ambassador of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, selected Clos du Rochers Pinot Blanc 2018 from their most important wine company, Cave Bernard Massard founded in 1921. “Wine has been made along the Mosel dating back to ancient times. The sun has been more kind to the 36 km of the river that runs through the south east of Luxembourg. Today, armed with international recognised AOP certifications, the professional competence of our wine growers is matched only by their unwavering commitment.” H.E. Philipp Ackermann, Ambassador of Germany, presented the crisp and fruity Messmer Einzig & Artig VDP Reisling 2018 from the steep slopes on the 208 km of the Mosel that run through his country. “The Reisling grape is found everywhere in the world – 14 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Anniversary each with a completely different flavour profile – but it traces its roots to Germany. I chose a classic Reisling from Palatinate to highlight the explosion of fruit and underlying acidity. This 250 years old winery is organic, and the French winemaker makes a huge effort to make the wine more and more natural.” The first reds of the evening appeared alongside the next course of Risotto Alla Pollo | Sous Vide Chicken | Natural Jus | Thyme Oil (Risotto Alla Carciofi | Texture Artichoke | Crumb Fired Polenta for the vegetarians). H.E. Katharina Wieser, Ambassador of Austria, selected Magerl Sankt Laurent Wagram 2018. In recent times, it’s very fashionable to grow this difficult and challenging grape that is very sensitive to frost. “This is a special wine from our ‘family winemaker’ from whom we have bought our wine for the last thirty years. Magerl is a very small family business of four generations which are playing in the vineyards – the small ones are really small – in fels am Wagram, only a 45 minute drive from Vienna.” The other wine on this flight had travelled a long way from across the world. H.E. Juan Rolando Angulo Monsalve, Ambassador of Chile, was kind with his words. “Thank you very much Ritu & Rajiv. All of us are grateful for all your efforts to promote wines – not just ours – so well.” To present the Valdivieso Gran Reserva Carménère Rapel Valley 2019, Juan was accompanied by the company’s winemaker. “Spanish settlers have traditionally grown grapes and made wine for many centuries in Chile. With climate change, we are discovering new wines in new areas. This evening shows how much good wine there is in the world – I’m being spoilt. Congratulations to those behind the marriage of the wine with the company and the food – absolutely delicious.” For the main course of Gruyère-crusted Lamb Chops | Vegetable Tian | Confit Aubergine and Purée | Lamb Jus (Three Quinoa Galette | Creamy Tomato Fondue | Saffron Cream Reduction | Fondant Vegetables for the vegetarians), two bold reds were served in bulbous glasses. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 15
Osborne is a little unconventional and decided to reap the fruit of the ‘dead arm’ of the vine caused by Eutypa Lata because the fruit is much more intense, luscious, delicious, very elegant.” We approached the final flight of wines – served with the dessert – Symphony of Chocolate | Manjari Chocolate Crémeux | Saint Martin Whipped Ganache | White Chocolate Marquise | King Mangoes. Representing France, Eric Fajole, Head of Business France in India, congratulated all Indian wine lovers who have been consuming significantly higher quality French wine despite the high taxation and difficulty in getting deliveries (especially in Delhi) in recent times. He shared Chateau Ame de Musset Lalande de Pomerol 2012 from Ambassador Lenain’s cellars. “This appellation in Bordeaux was created in 1936. Ame de Musset means the French poet’s soul and the wine portrays an alliance with romance.” Sarah Storey, Deputy High Commissioner of Australia and Catherine Gallagher, Senior Trade and Investment Commissioner and General Manager South Asia, Austrade, chose an available in market, top-of-the-range big red from South Australia – the d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2015 that had travelled across the Indian Ocean. Sarah proudly shared, “Australia is proud to claim the mantle of being the world's fifth largest wine producer. The wine regions across our continent offer a very diverse range. Winemaker Chester 16 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA H.E. João Manuel Mendes Ribeiro de Almeida, Ambassador of Portugal, had only just arrived in India when he accepted our invitation. Presenting the Niepoort Porto Ruby that was offered by the importer Mohan Brothers, he said, “Douro is the European City of Wine 2023 and the world’s oldest delimited wine area that is famous for its fortified wines. The Niepoort family has passed on its tradition of port making (and wine) through five generations. Port can be enjoyed with all courses of a meal – ours is an ideal marriage with dessert.” All good things must come to an end. I invited Amanda
FINE Anniversary The grapes freeze naturally and are handpicked swiftly to be pressed. A little goes a long way – the tiny drops that are drawn from the grapes are highly concentrated in flavour. The wine is not syrupy or clawing – but well balanced and very refreshing.” Anupam’s team were outstanding, as always. The wines were handled well and the service was impeccable. Atul & Karan both thanked FINE and FINE friends “It has been an honour to serve such a distinguished audience at Le Cirque in one single day.” The real heroes from the kitchen, the cellar and the floor were called out – and they all proudly took a well-deserved bow as they trooped through the dining room. Strohan, Deputy High Commissioner of Canada, to present the final wine in our stellar line-up – Inniskillin Icewine Reserve Cabernet Franc 2017. “This is most definitely the wine evening of the year. It is a tremendous pleasure to me to cap off the night with the world-renowned ice-wine from Canada. The curtains were called on the FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table 2023 – another edition of strong camaraderie around wine. This year, we were privileged to be in the midst of wine makers and wine families who personally shared their wines. We raised a toast to all the Ambassadors & High Commissioners who seized the opportunity to showcase their country’s wine and believed in FINE. Until next year…> FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 17
Tasting Notes Lidérc Riesling 2022 Somló, Hungary. Still White. 100% Riesling. Pale straw. Floral. Green apple, almond and lime. Balanced acidity, fresh and dry. Inside Information: With only 520 hectares of planted vines, Somló is the smallest Hungarian wine region. Perched on a volcanic hill, the vineyards are overlaid with basalt and volcanic ash ‘tuff’. Its wines are notoriously minerally and prized for their medicinal qualities. According to a folk myth, it is the ‘wine of the wedding night’. It is believed that newly-weds who drink it will be blessed with a son. Statistics don’t lie – 30% more male children are born in the region. According to writer Sándor Márai, Somló wines are noble, manifesting the wisdom of the East and the culture of the West. Nemea, Greece. Still Red. 100% Agiorgitiko. Ruby red with purple hue. Aromatic red fruits with floral hints. Palate: Cherry and butter scotch. Light body. Finish: Lean and vibrant. Inside Information: The hills around Nemea were terrorized by a lion. King Eurystheus decided that first of Hercules' ten task would be to bring him its skin. When he located the beast, Hercules tricked it into combat and choked the lion to death in his mighty arms. Hercules is identified in paintings or sculptures with the lion skin he wears. Konstantinos Anastasiou and Ioannis Douskas established the winery in Aigio. Their vineyards are at an altitude of 300m and 800m above sea-level, on the Aigialia slopes, where the mountains combine with the sea and the gorge of Kalavrita to present a special microclimate. Veinivilla Solaris 2021 Rathfinny Cradle Valley Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris 2018 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Palate: Finish: Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Estonia. Still White. Solaris. Light straw. Citrusy. Orange and grapefruit. Palate: Fresh and minerally. Light acidity balances the natural sweetness. Finish: Toasty and light acidity. Inside Information: It is only the second year that Estonia has joined the world wine making community. Valgejõe Veinivilla is the northernmost winery in the country, located in Lahemaa National Park, in a forestry house. The winemakers are the sommelier team – Tiina Kuuler and her son Gregor. Since the area is too cold for grape to thrive, Solaris is grown in Tarvastus Heino Säina in southers Estonia. The wine received a silver medal at the Paris Wine Cup – the first time an Estonian grape wine was awarded in an international competition – which also recognised the label designed by Triin Põllmaa, a village elder. 18 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Cavino Nemea Agiorgitiko 2019 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Region: Sussex, United Kingdom. Style: Still White. Varietal: 52% Pinot Blanc 48% Pinot Gris. Appearance: Pale yellow. Nose: Fruity with hints of honey and pepper. Palate: Complex. Crisp flavours of lime, grapefruit and peach. Soft tannins. Finish: Long and racy. Inside Information: Rathfinny Estate in East Sussex was founded in 2010 by Mark and Sarah Driver. The couple planted the first vines in 2012 in the outstanding natural beauty of the South Downs National Park. Today, the vineyards of about 200 acres that grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris occupy the main part of Cradle Valley, on a south-facing slope that is very close to the famous Seven Sisters cliffs and the sea. The warm semi-continental climate and long summer days ensure perfect ripening, and 2018 was an exceptional year for winemaking in the area.
Champagne Challiol & Charmetant Brut (en Magnum) Region: Champagne, France. Style: Sparkling White. Varietal: 60% Meunier, 15% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Appearance: Golden with persistent fine bubbles. Nose: Fruit forward aromas with floral hints. Palate: Freshness laced with perfect acidity. Lush pear and apple with hints of spice. Finish: Buttery. Long and lingering. Inside Information: Founded in 2018 by the Singhal family, the first Indians that bought vineyards in Champagne, France. This label traces its history back to the 19th century, when it was selected to be showcased at the Calcutta International Exhibition in 1883 in the honour of Queen Victoria. The Meunierrich cuvée from the Marne Valley is classified as a Recoltant Cooperateur and has been aged for 5 years. Finished with a low dosage, it is presented only in handcrafted magnums, which are sealed by hand with a sustainable ‘ancienne’ closure – no metal no foil. Messmer Einzig & Artig VDP Reisling 2018 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Pfalz, Germany. Still White. 100% Reisling. Light gold. Citrusy. Green apple with hints of slate. Palate: Complex. Concentrated Granny Smith apples and lime with pithy acidity. Full-bodied. Finish: Great texture and length. Inside Information: Founded by Herbert and Elizabeth Messmer in 1960 in southwest Germany, close to the French border. The area’s yellow sandstone buildings were home to winemaking for ~250 years. The terroir has different soil types: slate, red sandstone, granite, limestone, loam, sand and 'muschelkalk' – a calcareous soil with substantial deposits of fossilised mussel shells. Messmer uses only organic fertilisers to preserve the health and minerality of the soils. In 2011, they began biodynamic cultivation of some sites. Fermentations are cool, slow and small batch; grapes are partially de-stemmed; and wines are bottled without fining and with only the gentlest filtration. FINE Anniversary Fine India Twelfth Anniversary Clos du Rochers Pinot Blanc 2018 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Palate: Mosel, Luxembourg. Still White. 100% Pinot Blanc. Light gold. Citrus fruits and floral aromas. Lively. White fleshy fruits – pear, apple. A touch of salinity. Finish: Medium and well-made. Inside Information: With the expertise and experience in vineyards since the 19th century, Bernard Massard was founded in 1921. Today, the fifth generation of the family manages Luxembourg’s leading wine company which exploits 22 hectares of vineyards and has a production of around 3.5 million bottles – which are offered within and beyond the borders of Luxembourg. Eager to preserve the unique character of Moselle wines, the Domaine is one of the first to favour low yields, selective harvesting and integrated sustainable cultivation in the terroirs between Grevenmacher and Wormeldange. To receive the coveted AOP Luxembourgeois label. Magerl Sankt Laurent Wagram 2018 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Fels am Wagram, Austria. Still White. 100% Saint Laurent. Dark ruby with violet hue. Dark berries with hints of tobacco. Palate: Juicy red fruit with hints of oak and cocoa. Delicate woody notes and soft tannins. Finish: Full bodied with some natural sweetness. Inside Information: This family business draws on the experience of previous generations. Traditions are maintained whilst new ideas are constantly being discussed and implemented to evolve with the times. The winemaking philosophy brings the unique terroir into the glass and everything possible is done so that this is not disturbed. Wines are matured in the classic way to ensure great drinking pleasure even when held on for some years. By getting certified sustainable in 2017, the foundation towards organic viticulture has been laid. The family is committed to its responsibility towards nature and the future generations. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 19
Tasting Notes Valdivieso Gran Reserva Carménère Rapel Valley 2019 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Rapel Valley, Chile. Still Red. 100% Carménère. Garnet red. Complex. Ripe dark berries. Roast green peppers. Palate: Juicy cherries with hints of oak. Elegant structure with silky tannins. Finish: Seductive and smooth. Inside Information: The winery history dates back to 1879, when Don Alberto Valdivieso founded the first sparkling wine producer in all of South America. His legacy is an invaluable heritage, alive in every bottle and in every corner that they touch. A heritage that invites a celebration, just for fun. It was only late in the 20th century that commercial production of wines began. The fruit comes from the Colchagua Valley, where the low fertility soils allow vegetative control of the vines. This warm valley is ideal for Carménère to slowly develop fully. d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2015 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: McLaren Vale, South Australia. Still Red. 100% Shiraz. Inky red. Explosion of fruits – cherry and blackberry – with oak derived vanilla. Palate: Abundant plum, pomegranate and blueberry with tight spicy tannins and mouth-watering acidity. Finish: Brooding and alluring. Inside Information: The 2015 vintage was one of the earliest harvests on record. Good moisture in a wet winter set up the vines well with healthy canopies. Spring was very dry with above average temperatures, a heavy downpour in January was a welcome relief. Mild conditions during ripening produced wines that show rich character. Small grape batches are gently crushed and transferred to five ton headed down open fermenters with foot treading during fermentation. The wine is basket pressed and matured in a mix of new and old French and American oak for 18 months. No fining or filtration. 20 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Château Ame de Musset Lalande de Pomerol 2012 Region: Bordeaux, France. Style: Still Red. Varietal: 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Alcohol: Bright red with purple reflections. Appearance: Aromas of red fruits and liquorice with hints of tobacco and spice. Nose: Concentrated plum, black currant with some spicy notes. Smooth tannins and balanced acidity. Palate: Long. Aromatic persistence. Inside Information: The chateau has five hectares on the Right Bank, in the heart of the Lalande de Pomerol appellation, decreed in 1925. A welldrained gravel ridge formed on drought-resistant clay with some iron deposits. The average vine age is 25 years. Natural treatments respectful of balance and biodiversity are implemented under the watch of Pascal Delbeck, a firm believer in the truth of the terroir. Harvesting maturity is decided by tasting the berries. Vinification in the gravityfed winery segregates plots in specific small vats. Ageing for 15 months in new and once-used barrels.
Niepoort Porto Ruby Region: Porto, Portugal. Style: Fortified Red. Varietal: Tinta Francisca, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cao. Appearance: Deep red. Nose: Intense fresh aromas of dark fruits. Palate: Explosion of dark fruits with a minerally character. Full bodied. Well balanced acidity. Finish: Long and pleasingly sweet. Inside Information: The Niepoort philosophy has been to innovate, diversify, break taboos, maintain tradition. The grapes come from old vineyards in Cima Corgo region of Douro Valley. The wine ages in large wooden casks at the cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. With early filling, it spends the rest of its time in the bottle, where it is protected against outside influences. A modern young, fresh and contemporary styled wine, it is crafted from a selection of special wines aged for 3 years. Accessible and easydrinking, it retains high quality. FINE Anniversary Fine India Twelfth Anniversary Inniskillin Icewine Reserve Cabernet Franc 2017 Region: Style: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Niagara, Canada. Still Dessert. Cabernet Franc. Golden amber. Aromas of rhubarb and raspberry. Palate: Abundant red fruits – cherry and strawberries. Creamy rich texture. Finish: Lingering sweetness balanced by acidity. Inside Information: Austrian Karl Kaiser and Italian Donald Ziraldo started a Canadian winery with an Irish name, Inniskillin, inspired by the land's former owner, the Colonel of the Inniskilling Fusiliers. On July 31, 1975, it became Canada’s first estate winery when it was given the first license since Prohibition. Internationally renowned for its award-winning wines and for its pioneering role in establishing the Canadian wine industry, the winery came into prominence globally at the 1991 Vinexpo Bordeaux, when its Vidal Icewine was awarded the highest Grand Prix d'Honneur, changing the way the world looked at Canadian wine. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 21
The Fine Ambassadors and High Commissioners Fine Ritu Singhal & Champagne Rajiv Singhal Austria Katharina Wieser & Michael Wieser-Much 22 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Leela Hotels Anupam Dasgupta Luxembourg Peggy Frantzen
FINE Anniversary Estonia Katrin Kivi Chile Juan Angulo Germany Philipp Ackermann Portugal João Ribeiro de Almeida FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 23
24 Canada Amanda Strohan & Ian Hirchfield UK Christina Scott Australia Sarah Storey Australia Catharine Gallagher FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Anniversary France Eric Fajole Hungary Dr. Mariann Erdő Greece Yerassimos Lazaris UK Amber Chandler FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 25
26 Belgium Didier Vanderhasselt Thailand Pattarat Hongtong UN Shombi Sharp & Sarah Watterson European Union Beatrice Arborio FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
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COLUMN RAPHAELLA HOLSTAINE WHO AM I? A long, long time ago, in the chaos of the early middle ages in northern France, the Benedictine monks brought me to life. I come from the earth and am elaborated against all odds with extreme precision by some amazing people. The maze of chalk cellars some 30 metres under the ground is where I age. 28 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA An aura of mystery has surrounded lifestyle. I am the love of life. Any valentine me. But, word about my enticing bubbles not proposing with me is so boring. I am travelled and royals across Europe insisted the essence of extravagance, enchantment that only I witness their coronations. In the and enjoyment at any celebration. I am the 18th Century, ladies in the French Court excitement of a never-ending party. I haven’t prevailed upon King Louis XV to announce ever failed to bring a smile to anyone’s face. me to the world by special royal decree. A Delhi socialite confessed that I am her My reputation precedes me. I am the only companion through the city’s wedding drink for the most alluring, glamourous season, “even after several flutes, I wake up and flamboyant people in all ages. I am a as fresh as a daisy!”
FINE Holstaine I am the chalice full of optimism and Marilyn Monroe took a bath in 350 The first ‘coupe’ for me, before the hope. I am the scintillating sensation bottles of me and I triggered her ‘butterfly modern-day flute, was moulded under that many lucky new borns experience. transformation’. Winston Churchill couldn’t instructions of the King of France from the I flowed freely to celebrate the birth of imagine a day without me because I have a breast of either his Queen Marie Antoinette Maharaja Bhawani Singh of Jaipur, who unique effect. “The nerves are braced; the or Madame de Pompadour, his lady who was nicknamed “Bubbles” since. I bring the imagination is stirred; the wits become more famously complimented me, “the only wine promise of good luck and in ceremonial boat nimble”. that leaves a woman beautiful after drinking christenings only my bottle is broken on the hull of a new vessel. I am white even if my origins are black. it”. I am always a good idea – it is not often that I am selfied with heroes, celebrities, Napoleon anyone can say no to me. I am an immediate and high-fliers and might be perceived as Bonaparte, whom I can call a good friend mood enhancer. The sound of popping cork aristocratic, but you can pick me up in a who visited me often, said about me, “in is so enticing. I am an aphrodisiac and expect supermarket aisle. I am the extra attention victory you deserve it, in defeat you need only to be unrobed by gentlemen – those you never expected. I will make you feel it”. I am an explosion of one million of without finesse may end up an eye short. more important. I make things better than bubbles in a single glass. I am a festival of Otherwise, I am anything but dangerous to they were. I lend confidence. effervescence. I am the bubbly detachment your health. I represent triumph. I am the sparkling girl. I am Champagne. > needed from the surrounding chaos. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 29
Photo: Shutterstock 30 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE History Who invented Champagne? Text: Jean-Luc Barbier are two plausible answers to this often asked question. There For most, all the credit for the invention of Champagne goes to the ‘Procureur’ of the Abbey of Hautvillers, Pierre Pérignon. For some, Champagne is a discovery by the English physician and scientist, Christopher Merret. Vine and wine historians are divided on the subject. The search for truth requires an examination of each of the two theses. At the outset, both of them are not prima facie convincing. One must go deeper into the subject and assemble the elements of the puzzle to arrive at an explanation. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 31
of Dom Pérignon became commonplace in the world of wine and gained momentum in France during the 19th century. The press promptly seized on it, the winegrowers and merchants joined in and it touched a chord with the public too. The Champagne community celebrated the 250th anniversary of the discovery of Champagne in 1932, by taking out a procession in Hautvillers. Christopher Merret's claim Recently, an English journalist came forward to claim that Champagne was a discovery by Christopher Merret, a London physician and scientist. In 1662, in his memoir of a few pages, Merret had suggested that the colour, smell and taste of failing wines could be corrected by adding elderberry, honey, ginger and other ingredients to the barrels. At the end of his memoir, he wrote: English merchants put vast quantities of sugar and molasses into all kinds of wines to make them lively and sparkling. The British press capitalised on the claim, followed by a discussion in the French media. Some historians accepted this thesis without providing any conclusive evidence. Pierre Pérignon's thesis This one is the oldest. It has its origins in a letter dated 25 October 1821 that Jean-Baptiste Grossard, the last ‘Procureur’ of the Abbey of Hautvillers, addressed to the deputy mayor of Ay. He writes: It was the famous Dom Pierre Pérignon who discovered the secret of making sparkling white wine. This claim by an elderly monk, made more than a century after the death of his distant predecessor, is not supported by any evidence. Pérignon was definitely contemporary with the first bottles of sparkling wine produced in Champagne, but none of them came from his abbey. However, he had some great accomplishments. ‘Procureur’ of the Abbey of Hautvillers from 1668 until his death in 1715, he was a pious Benedictine monk with many talents: a builder who enlarged what he built; a winegrower who defined and implemented new and qualitative practices; a winemaker who elaborated renowned wines; and a wine merchant whose wines commanded the highest prices. Pérignon and the Abbey of Hautvillers are part of the historical heritage of Champagne. The seductive legend 32 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE History In the manuscript, several wines are mentioned, but not Champagne. In addition, the practice described applies to wines at the time of service; it is a mode of consumption that is already prevalent in the Netherlands and Spain, but not a technique of elaboration. Before moving forward in the search for the true origin of Champagne, it should be remembered that the natural and spontaneous effervescence of wines undergoing alcoholic fermentation is an ancient and constant phenomenon observed since time immemorial: stopped by the winter cold, fermentation in the barrels resumes vigour and ends with a mild spring season. The wines of Champagne sometimes had this more or less intense – but always ephemeral – sparkle. A collective invention On the contrary, Champagne as we know it today is the result of a deliberately provoked and controlled effervescence. The definition of this long and complex process of elaboration is the work of the people from the Champagne region – the champenois – themselves. First of all, from the middle of the 17th century, some winemakers in the Champagne region abandoned the production of red wines and succeeded in producing an almost white wine, called ‘vin gris’, from the black grapes. It was a technical feat that could only be achieved because of the great care taken at the time of pressing the grapes. This wine was of remarkable quality, and sold at a higher price than all other wines. It was successfully received with some curiosity among small inner circles. Christopher Merret Another Champagne innovation was that instead of storing the ‘vin gris’ in barrels, like all other wines at that time, some winemakers bottled it. If the bottle was passed on while the alcoholic fermentation was continuing, effervescence would be observed when the bottle was opened, and the wine poured into glasses. Some young English dandies advocated the fashion of sparkling Champagne around 1675 – it was but a FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 33
the next. Sometimes the wine remained desperately still, sometimes it escaped in a single gush that left the bottle almost empty. That is, if due to the intense pressure that was created in the bottles, they had not already exploded in the cellars. A decisive step came in the 1770s when cane sugar was added at the time of bottling the wine. But it wasn’t until the work of the pharmacist Jean-Baptiste François from Chalon in 1836 and then that of Professor Edme-Jules Maumené from Reims in 1874, that the exact quantity of sugar required could be determined. Riddling and disgorging were defined at the end of the 19th century. And it was a century later that the use of selected yeasts conducive to the effervescence became widespread. Champagne is a collective creation, the work of generations of hard-working and anonymous people in the Champagne community, each one contributing a very valuable brick to the building under construction. Champagne’s creation lies where empiricism gives way to technique and science; it was their ingenuity and perseverance, from invention to innovation, that defines this original method of making wines. > passing fashion that was picked up in France and grew there. In his treatise published in 1718, the ‘Chanoine’ of the Reims cathedral, Jean Godinot, observed: For more than twenty years the taste of the French has been determined by sparkling wine and we have loved it, so to speak, to the point of fury. To satisfy this growing new demand, several winemakers strove to create effervescence and make it persistent until the wine was presented. After much trial and error, a few things became clear. The bottling of the wine at the beginning of the spring following the harvest was the most propitious time. Underripe grapes with sustained acidity were extremely favourable to the effervescence. The white grapes of the Côte d'Avize, renowned for their greenness, were then sought after (as they are now) to craft the blends. The use of corks, which made it possible to contain the effervescence better, gradually became widespread from the end of the 17th century. And the winemakers designed a specific bottle with special characteristics that were better adapted to the effervescence and the corking. But the effervescence remained uncertain from one bottle to 34 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Jean-Baptiste François
Photo: CIVC The Champagne Grapes TEXT: Tyson Stelzer 36 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Grapes Text: Bhisham Mansukhani C hampagne is as delectable as it is surprising. Akin to the infinitesimal bubbles in crystal tulips of this sparkling ferment, there’s a bounty of Champagne facts that can give drinkers a moment of pause as they savour their favourite cuvée. There are as many interesting nuggets of these as there are styles. And one that gets most Champagne lovers every time is the number of grapes grown in Champagne. The summer heatwave of 2019 burnt grapes on the vines. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 37
Champagne’s meteoric ascendence and focus on quality improvement left little room to risk using all but the two very reliable Burgundian grapes and the lone indigenous varietal. And while most conversation about Champagne hovers over its perpetually sparkling reputation, its delicious palate and the glamorous trappings that surround the premier bubbly, the grapes deserve so much more than cursory attention during tastings or rumination at the vineyards. The grapes are the indispensable soul of Champagne and the region brilliantly vinifies, for a large part, three of them. Chardonnay Chardonnay might as well be regarded as god’s vinous equivalent. It is simply everywhere, in every winemaking country’s vineyards, on any wine list that matters and at the top of the collector’s haul. This white grape has conquered the world but still remains rooted in the haloed birthplace of Burgundy and Champagne. Chardonnay brings vibrance, freshness and acidic brio to the blend, accounting for around one-third of all Champagne vineyards. This grape adapted to the Champagne region with consummate ease. Some vinify Chardonnay letting the white grape sit longer, developing hallmark flavours of stone fruit and crisp acidity. The champenois pick early to extract juice that will Chardonnay ferment into a concentrated and acidic ferment which imbues Champagne with hallmark freshness and sprightly character, and provides the acidic backbone that helps the ageing process. Côte des Blancs is the picturesque source of most of Champagne’s Chardonnay yield and also its most prized. The region's soils abound with chalk and limestone, imparting an acidic rush and intense citrus tones to the grape, and define Champagne’s favourite single varietal style, Blanc de Blancs. The Côte de Sézanne is also a significant grower of Chardonnay, though its fruit is more aromatic than acidic. The popularity of Blanc de Blancs wines is fair tribute to this diverse grape’s potential. Chardonnay It isn’t just the famous trinity of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier that account for the present Champagne blend; there are four more grapes that are officially permissible and allowed to be used to produce Champagne. At the turn of the 19th century, the region’s houses unanimously decided to concentrate on the three aforementioned grapes, while consigning the quartet of other permitted grapes, namely Pinot Gris, Pinot Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Arbane, to tiny parcels or the archives. Evolution towards sustainable practices and better viticultural inputs have resulted in permission to include a new fungus resistant varietal, the eighth permitted grape — Voltis. 38 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Pinot Noir It would not be inaccurate to regard Pinot Noir as a grape in a club of its own. How the thin-skinned grape straddles elegance and complexity on the back of its delicate skin is as much an enigma as how difficult it makes the winemaker’s life. In spite of its international profile, Pinot Noir still gives its best to its birthplace of Burgundy and adopted region of Champagne. Pinot Noir’s history of hundreds of successful harvests is an underrated chapter in Champagne’s ability to make this finicky grape do great things. Much like Chardonnay, the end result for this red is unlike what you’d expect in Burgundy or New Zealand. While these regions strive for finesse and fruity concentration, Pinot Noir’s role in Champagne is nearly workman-like, lending structure, weight and subtle red fruit tones to the blend even as the
FINE Grapes free run juice is devoid of skin contact. The contrasting play between Chardonnay’s citrusy exuberance and Pinot Noir’s complex dimension has come to define the peerless Champagne blend. Pinot Noir parcels get the lion’s share of the region’s one-third vineyard cover, the top of which is from the Montagne de Reims region, where the chalk and loam soils conspire with cool windy afternoons to stretch Pinot Noir’s legs and yield balanced fruit. The southerly sub-region of Aube also grows a rustic version of this red grape that goes into making the Brut sans année – non vintage. Pinot Noir’s presence and importance in the realm of Champagne remains in ascendancy as does the grape’s capacity for greatness. Meunier Meunier Pinot Noir Meunier, often teased as the unsung parallel to Bordeaux’s Cabernet Franc, was long regarded third in rank in the trinity that made the Champagne blend. Referred to unkindly as a mutation of Pinot Noir, the black-skinned grape fell out of favour with many Champagne houses towards the turn of the last century as the duet of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay became the norm. The choice was a curious one though, as Meunier has a lot going for it. An early ripener, the grape is resilient to climatic shocks and turns into a wine that teems with fresh plum and raspberry flavours laced with light structure. As a standalone Blanc de Noirs, Meunier matures at a fair clip into a very drinkable FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 39
Brut non vintage. And that is Meunier’s recent ticket to revival, especially in Vallée de la Marne, west of Epernay along the river. Meunier and Vallée de la Marne are a match made in volatile vinous heaven, given the region’s helpful clay soils nastily tempered by the prevalence of frost. That’s no problem for Meunier which is being hailed as the region’s identity. In fact, Champagne house owner Eric Taillet brought together a set of Champagne houses to form the Meunier Institut, which champions Blanc de Noirs production – exclusively from Meunier. So, the somewhat forgotten grape is just fine going it alone, under pressurized cork. The Fading Quartet While Meunier clawed its way back from existential crisis to single varietal glory, fate hasn’t taken quite the same interest in Champagne’s four other official grapes, cast aside by the houses for myriad reasons but forever featured in the region’s storied history. Petit Meslier Pinot Gris 40 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The abandoned quartet of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and Arbane account for only a little over 0.3% of all planted vineyards – only around 100 hectares in the entire Champagne appellation. Two of them at least have garnered serious credentials in neighbouring French regions and one of them crept into northern Italy to become its bestselling white. Sadly though, while Pinot Gris is an Arbane
FINE Grapes special cuvée, which helps retain and share a fascinating piece of Champagne history. He believes that an emerging niche of Champagne enthusiasts who favour rare cuvées are kindling a demand that might increase production threefold, while global warming could bring the late ripening Arbane back into favour. So hope still floats for the so far ignored grapes that will always remain on Champagne’s prestigious rolls, if not in the misty vineyards. Rave New Fruit indispensable star of Veneto where it was rechristened Pinot Grigio, it’s no good in Champagne where it doesn’t take well to the soils, taking too long to ripen and lacking enough acidity to age suitably. Another white offspring of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc fared relatively better. It mustered quite the reputation in Alsace where it thrives on limestone soils to produce still whites and luscious Cremant. A historic and yet relatively rare Champagne grape variety, Pinot Blanc expresses itself wonderfully on the clay-limestone soils of the Celles-surOurce, where Champagne de Lozey makes it into a single varietal cuvée. Photo: CIVC Pinot Blanc Standing still is not what Champagne does, even though the undertow of tradition keeps the region’s practices in check. The long-standing status quo changed with an addition to the region’s clique of seven permissible grapes – an eighth grape was approved in the summer of 2021. Voltis is the first mildew-resistant grape to be planted in Champagne and this white grape made it through L'Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité’s (INAO) rigorous approval process in 2023. The grape was originally developed by the French agricultural institute INRA along with three other grapes that have not yet made the grade. The region’s regulators have taken an extremely cautious approach with Voltis, allowing for tiny plantings only to those who have planted all seven existing grapes and only 10% is allowed for use in any cuvée. These restrictions will hold for 10 years following which Voltis will be reassessed for quality. The pioneering house of Champagne Drappier is the first to take the lead in planting Voltis, which will officially be part of their range of Champagne cuvées sometime post 2028. > Petit Meslier’s attributes of bright acidity and herbaceous streak made it endearing in patches, but was cut down by a tendency to ripen early and an inability to pull through spring frost. Like Petit Meslier, little is known about Arbane by the rest of the world and yet the grape has historic roots in Aube and Buxeuil. In fact, the house of Moutard-Diligent in Buxeuil still makes a single varietal expression from the Arbane grape. However, the white grape’s obscure fate seems sealed as it requires too much attention on the vine, ripens far too late and yields poorly per hectare. Champagne Drappier’s owner-winemaker Michel Drappier himself hasn’t given up on the fading quartet and still leaves tiny room in the vineyards to harvest them for a FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 41
TEXT: Ch’ng Poh Tiong 42 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Harvest text: Udit Singhal The enchanting vineyards of Champagne come alive at harvest time with a sparkle of joyousness evoking centuries of heritage. The usually muted canvas of the terrain is dotted with more than 100,000 migrant pickers who make the fabled soil of Champagne their temporary home, where they will work in the vineyards for three weeks. Now, in the beautiful sunshine, Champagne is at its liveliest. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 43
The long-standing tradition of harvesting entirely by hand continues in Champagne to this day. Regulation defined by the appellation only allows whole grape clusters to be picked for pressing. Once the starters’ gun is fired by the Comité Champagne CIVC, in consultation with the vignerons and maisons, all vineyards must be scoured thoroughly for grapes. Come rain or shine, the harvest cannot and does not stop. The process is time sensitive and, contrary to bystander belief, is definitely not a walk in the park. breakfast is offered – an array of home-made breads, viennoiserie and charcuterie, accompanied by fresh juices and water to tuck in some much-needed energy for a rigorous day of work. “You will work off whatever you eat!” Wiping off the croissant crumbs, I get a pair of gloves and extremely agile clipping scissors. A graphic, depicting grape-picking guidelines, is shown and some instructions are shared. But To be selected for a team of grape-pickers, there are criteria and conditions – not everyone is allowed. I am honoured to be able to work the vineyards where Champagne is born. All excited, I arrive at the designated vineyard on the appointed day. A rustic 44 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: CIVC The day starts early, with vignerons and pickers sighted in the vineyards at the crack of dawn. The dress code is not the ‘black tie’ one usually associates with invites to Champagne events – but instead, wellpadded attire that one will not be unhappy to discard.
FINE Harvest considering the pickers make a living off this, they know what they need to do. I suspect these are directed to newcomers/ novices like me, even though it is not my first time. The group splits into pairs, one for either side of the vine, and the picking begins. The grapes are tucked deep into the vines under a heavy leaf cover. I must assess these grapes for quality in a split second, before I snip the umbilical cord P icking grapes is a back-breaking exercise. Harvesting is not for the weak-willed. Photo: CIVC joining them to the mother vine. The cluster is placed in the pannier with great care to avoid the grapes being crushed. I move along swiftly. Mouldy or ‘sec’ grapes are left on the vine or readily discarded. I must cut all the grape that is on the vine. The words “don’t leave anything – the grapes are too precious”, are ringing in my ears. As is the warning: “Your fingers are not an extension of the bunch that you cut”. I am let into a well-kept ‘vigneron secret’. If you ever find your hands too dirty in the vineyard, crush and rub a bunch of golden grapes found on Meunier vines into your hands. This is a gift from nature, particularly fitting for the recent pandemic times when it had become essential to wash and sanitise hands every so often. As soon as my basket is full, I head back to ‘point rendezvous’ to dump my ‘winnings’ into the large perforated plastic containers initialled in gold (everything in Champagne sparkles!) that sit neatly stacked at the back of a truck. A clean, whole bunch of mature grapes is the ask; there FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 45
is no room for leaves, long stalks, wood or any other picked-up rubbish in the containers which are no less than coffers carrying precious cargo. After all, the grape yield per hectare is limited. Picking grapes is a back-breaking exercise. With the vines at ground level, I am on my haunches all this while. However, there is no time for tiring – excessive stretching or time-outs are admonished. Occasional drops of energy-giving water are like the magic potion for Asterix. But what truly revives is being surrounded by views to-die-for. The sooner the grapes are pressed after being cut, the better. Keeping this in mind, as soon as the containers are filled to the brim, one team pauses the harvest to drive down to the pressing facilities nearby. The consignment of grapes in our load needs to be delivered swiftly. Manoeuvring through the vineyard paths, village streets and unusually busy roads of Champagne takes far longer than usual – all sorts of vehicles, from dump trucks to lorries and other equipment crowd out the roads, much like in India during the cane harvest season, sans the bullock carts. At the pressing centre, as the tubs are unloaded, the grapes are weighed (this is the basis on which the vigneron is paid), and are inspected for temperature There are criteria and conditions to be selected for a team of grape-pickers – not everyone is allowed. and sugar levels using sophisticated devices. If these metrics aren’t in range, everything brought in can be discarded. Vinification commences with those grapes that conform to the expected standards. After what seems like a year spent harvesting, which has really only been a few hours’ work, we break for a sumptuous lunch. The whole team sits together for a lavish home-cooked multicourse meal, starting with salads and bread, progressing to appetizers, continuing with le plat principal, slowing down at dessert and finishing off with cheese. Photo: CIVC While the urge to snooze after such a hearty meal is real, work needs to carry on. The rest of the day, till the sun goes down on the western horizons, is spent working on what’s left on the vines in the same vineyard, or a new vineyard for a change of scene, as demanded. There are many rules that need to be followed, hence it is vital for any shenanigans to be set aside to work as a vigneron. Harvesting is not for the weak-willed. 46 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA But the end of this hard day of work is cause for celebration. And what better
FINE Harvest Photo: CIVC to celebrate with than Champagne! Bottles are popped, with corks flying all across the vineyards. In Champagne, no one is deprived of Champagne. As glasses are filled, the empty bottles are turned over, and Champagne is poured in the punt. Champagne and the champenois never cease to amaze – the ingenious utility for the punt affords another meaning to ‘bring your own glass’. The harvest is truly a special time for the region of Champagne. A flood of humanity in this otherwise thinly-populated district turns the center of Reims and Epernay into a big ‘wonderland’ carnival, where fun rides and games, thrilling crane-bungee jumping and delicious eats subsume into a melting pot of good times. They say it takes hard work and getting your hands dirty in a rather unglamourous fashion to create something truly chic and uber glamorous. This statement alludes perfectly to Champagne. Vive le Champagne! > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 47
STILL Special The Other Flairs of Champagne text: Bhatia Dheeraj 48 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Still Wine H istorically, the Champagne region made still wine from grapes first grown in the region in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, long before the saga of sparkling wine began. Sometime in the late 17th century, the first fermentation was deliberately continued and the wine was transferred from casks to strong glass bottles. It was not long before the sparkling wines of the Champagne region became very fashionable in this era, forever more eclipsing the production of still wines. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 49
As a Sommelier, I absolutely adore the sparkling wines of Champagne, but I began a quest for the still and sweet wines of Champagne around 2012, while I was working for The Peninsula in Hong Kong. I was curious to dig deep into the history of still winemaking in Champagne. I visited Champagne for the Ruinart Sommelier Challenge 2018 and later a study program in the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne. All the literature and communication for Champagne points to Ruinart (founded in 1729) as the oldest house of Champagne. I learned that Gosset, known for still winemaking since the 16th century, is the oldest wine house in Champagne: from Ay since 1584. In the 16th century, the fame of Aÿ was at its peak. Wines from the regions of Montagne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne were often compared with wines from the King’s own vineyards in Aÿ. The still wines of Aÿ and wines from Bourgogne vied for the attention of the rulers of France. It was once said that Aÿ was ‘the ordinary drink of kings and princes’. According to Henry Vizetell’s history of Champagne, many nobles accepted the expense of having their own special 50 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA buying commissioners stationed in this village to secure the finest vintages of this royal wine. I connected with the local community in Champagne to gain further information on still wines. And got in touch with Olivier Horiot, one of the most profoundly passionate still winemakers today who has continued the tradition and crafts excellent still whites, rosé and great sparkling wines. Over a long phone conversation, we discussed the history, challenges and current trends of Champagne.
FINE Still Wine Once traditionally identified as vins natures de la Champagne, the authorized Appellation d’Origin Controlee (AOC) known as Coteaux Champenois was created in 1974 exclusively for still wines from the region. The Coteaux Champenois appellation is unique. Technically, AOC Coteaux Champenois can be made anywhere in the Champagne region within any of its communes. All whites, rosé or reds can be produced from any or all of the permitted grape varieties in Champagne – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Petit Meslier & Arbane. Coteaux Champenois is more focussed on still reds and some whites, and the communes notable for the still wines are Bouzy, Aÿ, Sillery, Cumières, Vertus, Chouilly & Mesnil. I was introduced to the Rosé des Riceys appellation in Olivier Horiot Champagne, which I believe is one of the best still rosé producing regions. In France, there are only two appellations slopes where the grapes were grown as one of the few spots in that are proudly dedicated to only rosé winemaking: Tavel in the the whole of the extreme cool climate Champagne region that Rhône Valley, and Rosé des Riceys in Champagne. Although received enough sun and heat to ripen Pinot Noir to the point the latter’s reputation has been at stake on several occasions, it where it could be crafted into this perfumed, brightly-coloured has outperformed, improved quality and come a long way. rosé. This unusual still rosé wine from the Champagne region comes Geographically speaking, Les Riceys is south of Aube and is from the Les Riceys municipality and is from three close- only a few miles from the bordering Burgundy region. In the knit villages – Riceys-Haut, Riceys Haute-Rive, and Riceys- past, there were plantings of Gamay and the hybrid Gouais Bas. Wine has been produced in this region since the 12th (which are forbidden today) together with Pinot Noir, Pinot century, made by the Cistercian Monks in the nearby Abbey Blanc and Pinot Gris. Les Riceys was once highly rated, but of Molesme. The monks selected the particular south-facing has been a part of many conflicts. It was considered more a FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 51
It was only when the AOC was formalised in 1947 that quality was controlled. In the 18th century, the production of Les Riceys grew and included whites, rosés and reds. In the 19th century, Jules Guyot, an official expert, put this region into Centre North, hoping it would become a part of Burgundy. In 1860, the wines of Riceys gained recognition at the Paris Expo and the wines of Aube in general were competing with Reims & Marne. The beauty of Les Riceys was that it had so much diversity to offer in range of styles compared to other zones that were solely focussing on sparkling wine. Back in the day, the Gamay grape was crucial in the mix, but eventually this grape had to be excluded once the appellation came into existence and it didn’t find a place in the approved grape varietals. As of today, the AOC Rose des Riceys has an approval for 350 hectares of which 100 hectares are used for production of Rose des Riceys. There are strict controls in place; the harvest has to be declared two weeks before picking and undergo inspection. Only Pinot Noir can be planted and if in a given year (cooler vintages) it has not achieved the required ripeness levels, then the grapes are not used. Terroir is a big factor here with limestone, clay and marl. The best parcels are known as Contree's (very much like Climat in Bourgogne). Its unique pale pink colour is known as Oeil de Perdrix (eye of a partridge). Ratafia Champenois is a spirit from Champagne that has fascinated me. I discovered it in 2012 when Jocelyn Yot, owner of Champagne Asia, gave me my first taste of Ratafia from Vilmart & Co. which blew me away. I immediately knew that this would do very well in my wine pairing menus and guests would be delighted to try something else from Champagne. Ratafia has an 800-year history of production. Ratafia Champenois Burgundy wine than Champagne. The aristocrats of Reims always considered the Aube, and the South in general, as ‘outsiders’. Before the Sun King sipped Champagne at Versailles, he was a fan of the rare still rosé of Pinot Noir known as Rosé de Riceys – produced in the extreme south of the Champagne region. Louis XIV is said to have discovered this aromatic and lightly tannic rosé when a group of workers from the village of RiceysHaut arrived at the construction site of the Palace of Versailles, bringing a supply of their local rosé along with them. The king was a big fan of the rosé from Provence, so he asked to try a bottle. He liked the wine so much that he soon dispatched the workers back to Les Riceys to procure more Rosé de Riceys for the royal court. 52 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA was produced alongside still wines, when grape growers began to fortify their grape juice to help preserve its fruitiness.
In the Australian market, where I have worked, many still wines from Champagne are to be found. Producers such as Egly Ouriet, Larmandier-Bernier and Bollinger (La Cote aux Enfants) are exploring the potential for these wines in a market that understands Champagne quite well and where customers are willing to seek the differentiators. The ones to watch out for are Charles Heidsieck and Louis Roederer. I have listed Oliver Horiot, Robert Moncuit, and Jacques Lassaigne on some of my wine lists. The future of these still wines from Champagne is certainly very bright and they are constantly evolving. > FINE Still Wine concur) that global warming will certainly benefit the still wines in Champagne. While one hopes to see more gems emerge, it is uncertain if it would make economic sense for the houses to produce one. After the sparkling wine production took over, most growers stopped making this golden liquid, but some persevered. It can be enjoyed as an aperitif or with fruit-based desserts, which I prefer. For cigar lovers, it adds to the experience on a sunny afternoon. Ratafia is recognised as a Protected Geographical Indication since 27 August, 2015. This new status was made possible when a group representing distillers, wine growers, and wine producers in the Champagne region created an organization known as the Association of Producers of Spirits of the Champagne Geographical Indication (Boissons Spiritueuses Champenoises). Among the goals of the group was to obtain PGI status for Marc Champenois (similar to Grappa) and Ratafia Champenois. The regulations for Ratafia Champenois PGI specify that it can only be produced using the three main grapes of the Champagne region – Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay. Only juice from the final (rebèche) pressing can be used for Ratafia, which is fortified with the grape-based brandy of the region, also distilled from the rebèche collection. Production of Ratafia Champenois is limited to 15 million bottles – about 5% of the total production of the AOC Champagne – per year. I have had the opportunity of interacting with Champagne experts and have learnt a lot. I also had the pleasure of being introduced to Château Saran by Jiles Halling, a former Moët et Chandon Ambassador. This still wine from the LVMH portfolio was served only at one of the iconic homes of the largest Champagne house. Jiles shared his point of view (and I FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 53
Champagne – The Science Behind the Bubbles Text: Gérard Liger-Belair 56 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
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M arie Curie, famous French physicist and twice winner of the Nobel Prize once said: I am among those who think that science has great beauty. A scientist in his laboratory is not only a technician. He is also a child placed before natural phenomena which impress him like a fairy tale. As a Doctor of Physical Science, I totally subscribe to the Marie Curie school of thought. Since I started academic research, many people have told me that I have seem to have landed the best job in all of physics, having built my career around bubbles in After more than three centuries and continuous refining, Champagne has become the most renowned sparkling wine, a world-wide symbol of chic and glamour praised for the fineness of its bubbles. Nevertheless, few are aware of the wonderful processes hidden right under their nose each time they enjoy a glass of Champagne. From a strictly chemical perspective, Photo: Equipe Effervescence a lab full of top-notch Champagne – and I would be inclined to agree! Champagne is a complex aqueous solution made of water, alcohol, hundreds of organic compounds and dissolved carbon dioxide, which gives Champagne its highly sought-after sparkle. Unveiling the strong interplays between the various parameters at play in a bottle and in a glass of Champagne has been my area of expertise for about two decades. My pleasure stems from the fact that I still have the same child-like fascination for blowing bubbles and studying them that I had when I was a kid. Let me guide you through a Champagne tasting – but from a scientific perspective – to help you discover the fascinating science hidden in every glass of Champagne. A blue haze when the cork pops During a second in-bottle fermentation process promoted by adding yeasts and a certain amount of sugar in hermetically sealed bottles, gaseous carbon dioxide forms together with alcohol. Champagne and sparkling wines elaborated through the traditional method are therefore subject to a very strong 58 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Figure 1
FINE Bubbles Photo: Rémi Wafflart Figure 2 Champagne down the side of a tilted flute was found to have jet mainly composed of carbon dioxide freely expands out of significantly less impact on the concentration of dissolved carbon the bottleneck through ambient air. A recent study shows that dioxide than pouring Champagne straight down the middle of this gaseous jet could, surprisingly, turn blue (Figure 1). Why a vertically oriented flute, simply because the ‘beer-like’ way such a blue fumarole when uncorking the bottle? This can be of serving Champagne is gentler (Figure 2). We could treat explained through a process called ‘adiabatic expansion’. The Champagne a little more like beer – at least when it comes to jet of carbon dioxide expanding out of the bottleneck cools by serving it. several tens of degrees. However, for bottles with temperatures higher than about 12°C, it turns out that the jet reaches a glacial temperature below minus 80°C, which lies below the freezing point for carbon dioxide. Blue haze is therefore the signature of the diffusion of ambient light on tiny dry ice crystals. This flash Photo: Gérard Liger-Belair internal pressure. During the cork popping process, a gaseous of colour, unfortunately invisible to the naked eye because it is far too ephemeral, is caused by the same light diffusion process that colours the sky with its blue hues. The best way to pour Champagne Have you ever wondered how best to pour Champagne into a flute to preserve its precious fizz? The concentration of dissolved carbon dioxide in Champagne and sparkling wines is the real key to the production of bubbles. As a rule of thumb, the more dissolved carbon dioxide in Champagne the longer the fizz in your glass. But the act of pouring Champagne into a glass is far from inconsequential, in terms of its effect on the level of dissolved carbon dioxide remaining in the glass. Pouring Figure 3 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 59
Photo: BBC and aromas was investigated through gas chromatography (a technique which allows us to accurately measure the various chemical components in a gas mixture). Gaseous carbon dioxide was found in nearly twice the concentration above the flute as above the coupe. Our results suggest that the narrow flute ‘funnels’ the carbon dioxide, and therefore the aromas, more effectively, whereas the broader coupe ‘dilutes’ them. Nevertheless, gaseous carbon dioxide is well-known to irritate the nose if too concentrated – this is the very unpleasant and so-called carbonic bite. Our results are consistent with sensory analyses conducted by human tasters. It is now generally accepted that the smell of Champagne, and especially its first nose, is more irritating when Champagne is served in a tall Counting the bubbles in the glass Sommeliers, wine journalists, experienced tasters, and many naturally curious people have wondered about the complex phenomena at play in a glass of bubbly and how many bubbles are likely to form in the glass. Closer inspection of glasses poured flute than when it is served in a wide coupe. A tulip-shaped wine glass, which is a bit shorter than a traditional flute and Photo: Reims University Figure 4 with Champagne revealed that bubble trains rising elegantly from the bottom of the glass towards the surface originate from tiny dust particles that are attached to the wall of the glass, such as the one in Figure 3. We have recently attempted to provide an accurate scientific answer to the question of how many bubbles are likely to form in a Champagne glass by using models that combine both the dynamics of bubble ascent and mass transfer equations. A theoretical relationship has been derived, which provides the whole number of bubbles likely to form per glass, depending on various parameters such as temperature, glass shape, ambient pressure, etc. If about hundred millilitres of Champagne are poured straight down the middle of a vertically oriented flute, nearly one million bubbles are likely to nucleate – if you can resist drinking what’s in your flute! Otherwise, Champagne poured gently in a tilted flute – a technique that better preserves the dissolved carbon dioxide – will yield so many more bubbles before your drink goes flat. The ideal glass to drink Champagne When one tastes Champagne, gaseous carbon dioxide and volatile aromatic compounds progressively invade the ‘headspace’ above the glass, thus modifying the taster’s global perception of aromas. The role of glass shape on the perception of gases 60 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Figure 5
FINE Bubbles Photo: Alain Cornu/Collection CIVC Photo: Reims University Figure 6 curved slightly inwards at the top (Figure 4), would be the best to provide the best overall sensory experience. Flow patterns augment the aromas Effervescence in your glass of Champagne goes far beyond aesthetics. Ascending bubbles drag along fluid particles in their Figure 8 interplay between ascending bubbles, which continuously drive some fluid across the Champagne surface and the circular glass wakes. Unlike non-effervescent flat wines at rest in your glass edge, confining the fluid circulation around its interior boundary. (unless you swirl them), sparkling wines are in constant motion. Bursting bubbles provide an aromatic A technique called laser tomography was used to reveal what the naked eye could not. The photographs displayed in Figure 5 show boost the beauty of the flow patterns found in Champagne glasses. Flow A new approach through high-speed imaging was conducted patterns continuously renew the air/wine interface, allowing the recently to decipher the fascinating processes behind bursting precious volatile aromas to escape from the wine surface much bubbles. A typical high-speed video sequence displayed in more efficiently over a longer period. By increasing the diffusion Figure 7 show various steps of a single bubble bursting at the of aromas, flow patterns driven by ascending bubbles are a Champagne surface, including the production of a high-speed wonderful gift to the Champagne taster. There is no reason to jet which quickly breaks-up into several tiny droplets. During swirl a glass of Champagne or sparkling wine to enjoy the subtle Champagne tasting, the myriad of ascending bubbles radiate mix of scents and flavours, since the bubbles simply do the job a multitude of tiny droplets above the free surface as they for you. Moreover, self-organized two-dimensional vortices were collapse, in the form of refreshing aerosols (Figure 8). Ultra- captured through long-exposure photography at the Champagne high-resolution mass spectrometry, a technique which allows us surface (Figure 6). These vortices are the result of the subtle to identify the various chemical components in a liquid mixture, Figure 7 Photo: Institut Jean Le Rond d’Alembert FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 61
Photo: Emmanuel Goulet Photo: Gérard Liger-Belair Figure 9 Gérard Liger-Belair was used to screen the chemical composition of droplets ejected of Champagne bubbles could have implications for other areas by bursting bubbles. Tens of chemical compounds showing of science where bubbles and dissolved gases play a major aromatic properties were found to be over-concentrated in the role (for example, in marine science where the production of Champagne aerosols. This very characteristic fizz considerably sea spray aerosols is very similar, in its principle, to the fizz in enhances the flavour release in comparison with that from Champagne), I have ‘uncorked’ many curiosities about the king a flat wine, thus supporting the idea that rising and bursting of wines. > bubbles act as a continuous elevator for aromas in every glass of Champagne. Bubble flowers in a glass High-speed photography was used to closely observe the dynamics of bubbles collapsing at the free surface of a glass poured with Champagne, thus revealing another unexpected and lovely phenomenon. After the collapse of the foamy head following the pouring of Champagne, the surface of a glass is covered with a thin layer of bubbles – a kind of bubble raft where each bubble is surrounded by several neighbouring bubbles. When a bubble ruptures and leaves an open cavity at the free surface, adjacent bubble-caps are sucked towards this empty cavity and create unexpected and short-lived flowershaped structures, unfortunately invisible to the naked eye (Figure 9). Unveiling the strong interplays between the various scientific parameters at play in a bottle and in a glass of Champagne has been my area of expertise for about two decades, in our small laboratory at the University of Reims (in the heart of the Champagne region). Not only have I discovered that the study 62 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Gérard Liger-Belair unravels the science behind Champagne bubbles in his book, Uncorked. Published by Princeton University Press, Uncorked is available on Amazon India.
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FINE Gadget Coravin Preserving Champagne In the world of wine, few experiences rival the mesmerising handheld charger unit, this easy-to-use system fills the empty charm of bubbles rising in a glass. However, the fleeting nature head space in the bottle with carbon dioxide – the very gas of the sparkle has presented a challenge for aficionados – until responsible for the prise de mousse – elbowing out any oxygen now. that would damage the remaining Champagne in the bottle. Pouring spoiled wine down the drain when his wife and wine This system is highly versatile, and its ergonomic design and drinking partner was away pained Greg Lambrecht, an MIT intuitive interface make it easy to operate. The stopper has a graduate and passionate wine lover. Frustrated by the universal fit that self-adjusts to lock securely and fits most wastefulness, he invented a device in his home workshop that bottle sizes, from demi to magnum. The pressure indicator on would soon change the way he – and the world – enjoyed wine. the compact portable charger tells you when the charging is complete. ‘Any wine, any amount, any time, without having to think about when you’re going to drink from that bottle again, independent Coravin Sparkling was in development for eight years, to of closure, still or sparkling’, is the mission statement of ensure it met the standards of the most discerning connoisseurs. Coravin, Inc., the Boston-based startup that Greg founded. Maintaining both flavour and effervescence in an open bottle The name comes from the Latin words Cor for heart and Vin was the key challenge – as was the need for the system to be for wine – ‘Coravin gets to the heart of wine’. simple enough not to intimidate the end user. With Coravin Sparkling, the once fleeting delight of Champagne transforms into prolonged pleasure. The trust that Coravin has inspired in wine producers and top sommeliers globally (Robert Parker was an early fan) has been passed on to the everyday wine consumer and collector, helping spread the joy of drinking good wines. This innovation also makes it possible for restaurants to expand their by-the- The patented Coravin™ Technology allows consumers to pour glass options and allows Champagne lovers to savour opened, and enjoy wine without disturbing its natural ageing process unconsumed or having to worry about consuming the whole bottle – consumption practices are promoted and wastage is minimised. bottles in their own time. Responsible because sometimes you just want one glass! With Coravin Sparkling, the once fleeting delight of Champagne Typically, when a bottle of Champagne is opened, its transforms into prolonged pleasure. Consumers can enjoy effervescence rapidly diminishes and the wine’s taste and their favourite Champagne with confidence, knowing that texture alters significantly. The recently launched Coravin every sip will be as delightful as the first. “I’ll drink whatever is Sparkling Wine Preservation System offers a solution to open” is a thing of the past. As Coravin continues to push the perfectly preserve the integrity of Champagne and sparkling boundaries of innovation, the future of wine preservation looks wines for upto four weeks. Using a unique stopper and a brighter – and bubblier – than ever before. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 65
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FINE Museum PRESSORIA A Sensorial Voyage Text: Rajiv & Ritu Singhal N Photo: Michaël Boudot estled in the rolling slopes of vineyards dotted with historic Champagne houses in the grand cru terroir of Aÿ, stands a unique landmark. Deriving its name from two Latin words ‘praesentia’ (presence) and ‘sensōrum’ (of the senses), Pressoria is the realisation of a vision to create a multi-sensory experience concept around Champagne. The five senses – sight, touch, smell, sound and taste – take centre stage in the discovery of Champagne's richly tapestried cultural and historical heritage. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 67
In 2008, the idea was seeded by the municipality of the region, the Communauté de Communes de la Grande Vallée de la Marne, who enlisted the support of experts from the region and several champagne houses whilst drawing on financial support from the French State, Region Grand-Est, Department of Marne and generous sponsors. “We were able to collate the energies of our local community into making Pressoria an amazing educational and entertainment gateway dedicated to the excellence of Champagne – its landscapes, heritage, know-how and traditions,” said Dominique Leveque, Mayor of Aÿ-Champagne and President of CCGVM. An unused pressoir (pressing house) of Champagne Pommery, steeped in history since 1869, was chosen as the location for Pressoria. In the 19th Century, architects Alphonse Gosset and Charles Gozier were tasked by Madame Pommery to reflect the grandeur of her estate in Reims. Inspired by Anglo-Saxon influences, they used red brick to contrast with bluishgrey plaster on the walls, towers and turrets, with 68 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Museum Pressoria is the realisation of a vision to create a multi-sensory experience concept around Champagne dentil ornamentation in the cornices and high, narrow windows under Tudor arches. They created a majestic memory of the Pommery estate on this site at the top of the Saint-Nicaise hill, that was a working facility till it stopped receiving grapes in 2001. In the restoration for Pressoria, care was taken to complement the natural surroundings and seamlessly integrate into the lush landscapes of the UNESCO World Heritage Champagne region – its hillsides, houses, and caves – with minimal intervention. The sleek historic exterior gives way to thoughtfully crafted interiors that enhance the visitor experience. Fittingly, the site is on Boulevard Pierre Cheval in Aÿ, named in the memory of the man who led Champagne's inclusion into the UNESCO World Heritage in 2015. This contemporary space transcends conventional museum experiences and is not confined to a mere display of artifacts behind glass walls. Instead, visitors are invited to immerse themselves in this interactive and playful self-paced tour, to explore the secrets of the king of wines and the wine of kings. It is designed to appeal to the young and old as well as amateurs and connoisseurs, as they indulge in the pleasurable discovery of effervescence. Pressoria is divided into thematic zones, each dedicated to one of the five senses. Room by room, visitors uncover the fascinating evolution of Champagne and explore the different facets of the vine and the wine through innovative exhibits, interactive multimedia presentations, storytelling sessions and playful technological devices. The sensorial journey transports visitors through the history of the Champagne region and the production of the most sought-after beverage in the world. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 69
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Visus Zone (See): Visitors engage with stunning visual displays, using innovative technology, to showcase the incomparable richness of the vineyards, the meticulous viticultural processes, and the artistry involved in vinification and capturing the effervescence in the iconic bottles. Tactus Zone (Touch): Visitors are encouraged to touch and feel various materials to get a tactile understanding of the elements associated with Champagne production Visitors are invited to immerse themselves in this interactive and playful self-paced tour, to explore the secrets of the king of wines and the wine of kings – from the velvety texture of grape leaves to the cool touch of aged oak barrels. Olfactus Zone (Smell): Visitors immerse in the aromas that define Champagne. Dome-shaped aroma stations allow guests to take in the subtle fragrances of the different grape varieties, fermentation, and inhale the delicate notes found in different Champagne blends. Auditus Zone (Hear): Visitors are transported into the auditory world of Champagne. This zone enhances the experience through carefully curated sounds, from the 72 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA rhythmic footsteps of vineyard workers to the gentle pop of a Champagne cork. Gustus Zone (Taste): Undoubtedly the highlight, visitors savour the diverse flavours of Champagne. Through guided tastings, experts lead guests through an exploration of the nuances of the Champagne styles – from crisp, fresh and citrusy to rich, mature and toasty.
FINE Museum The tasting room opens onto a very expansive terrace where Champagne flute in hand, you can take the time to contemplate the cascade of vines before you – a postcard backdrop for a special photo – and a very popular destination for special private and public events. A uniquely captivating destination, Pressoria is a tribute to the remarkable story of the men and women who have for centuries tamed this austere land, dealt with its harsh climate and transmitted their precious treasures of passion and knowledge from generation to generation, to craft an iconic wine that is itself celebrated the world over. Visitors can live the moment. The knowledge and lingering sensations of the history, culture and heritage of the region are imprinted on their senses, creating a deep sense of appreciation for the art and science behind this wine. It will make you fall in love with the region of Champagne even more. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 73
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text: I FINE Au c t i o n Champagnes with Exemplary Provenance Tim Triptree MW n my role at Christie’s, I get to deal with many of the world’s finest wines, from Burgundy and Bordeaux to Cult California to Australian Icons to vintage Port and Madeira. But the region that holds a special place in my heart is Champagne. I have had incredible visits to this region at different times of the year to understand the various stages of the methode champenoise. These visits have cemented my love for Champagne. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 75
Photo: Perrier-Jouët Maison Belle Epoque At Christie’s, I am fortunate to be involved with exceptional sales direct from the Champagne Houses. These sales have been highly successful largely due to the exemplary provenance of the bottles that are drawn directly from their cellars. Collectors are keen to acquire these vinous gems as opportunities like this do not come around very often. This creates a buzz around the auction and the high demand results in competitive bidding that can lead to unprecedented winning bids. A notable highlight was in December 2021 when Christie’s sold a collection direct from the cellars of Perrier-Jouet that included an extremely rare bottle of their vintage 1874, which had a special connection for Christie’s. Previously sold in 1888 at Christie’s London, this bottle set the longstanding benchmark for the most expensive Champagne ever sold at auction from 1888 right up until 1967. 1874 was an outstanding vintage, which created huge interest in the wines from Champagne during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This rare bottle sold for over £42,000 against an estimate of £10,000 to £15,000, far exceeding expectations. Other notable auctions and another highlight of my Christie’s career were the London and New York auctions 76 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA in December 2017, of rarities direct from the cellars of Champagne Charles Heidsieck, which represented the launch of the Collection Crayères from Charles Heidsieck. This auction also exceeded expectations with exceptional prices particularly for the 1979, 1981, 1982, 1983 and 1985 vintages of their Prestige Cuvée, Champagne Charlie and the rarely seen Charles Heidsieck Cuvée Royale 1966, 1975 and 1981. Champagne Perrier Jouët 1874
FINE Au c t i o n Photo: Compagnie Champenoise PH-CH As vintage Champagnes become increasingly popular with wine aficionados, their market has shown impressive growth in recent years. A major reason is the age ability of these vintage expressions, which the 1874 demonstrates. The lucky buyer of the Perrier-Jouet 1874 tasted this in the Maison Belle Epoque on Avenue de Champagne in Epernay and reports were that it was sublime. Champagne is now considered a fine wine that can age and evolve, and not just the vintage expressions. Christie’s has seen impressive prices for matured Krug Grand Cuvee produced before the introduction of Krug ID and Editions, as Champagne connoisseurs compete to acquire these complex and richly evolved mature expressions of Champagne. Prices for top Champagnes showed impressive growth from mid-2020 until 2023. Most recently, there has been a slight softening in the prices, also reflected in other fine wine regions, which is creating buying opportunities for collectors. Photo: Compagnie Champenoise PH-CH In April 2023, I visited Champagne Lanson for an exceptional tasting of older vintages with Cellar Master Herve Dantan. During the Covid lockdowns when visitors were not allowed, Herve started a project to preserve the heritage of Lanson by reconditioning their library collection of older vintages and creating new Lanson Collection releases. We tasted the Lanson vintages 1949, 1964, 1971 and 1975, which were in the distinctive ‘Le Quille’ sloping shoulderedshaped bottles. They were all superb and demonstrated how well Champagne can age when stored correctly, developing multi-layered complexity while retaining the refreshing, crisp, vibrant acidity that it is famous for. The 1949 had been Collection Crayères FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 77
Photo: Christie’s Images Limited 2023 opened one week before I tasted and was holding up very well, with an intense toffee nose with mocha and truffle, mouth-watering citric flavours with pineapple and mango – altogether a superb Champagne. The Lanson 1964, that had been disgorged in 2019 with a pressure of 1.28 and three grams per litre dosage, had an explosive nose with intense dried orange peel, honey, saffron and subtle vanilla pod nuances. Creamy textured mouthfeel and mouth-watering acidity with a long saline citric, pineapple and ripe apple finish. Perfectly judged dosage and another superb Champagne. The Lanson from the 1971 vintage was disgorged on 7 June 2022 with a slightly higher pressure of 1.72 and again dosage of three grams per litre. lt had a complex nose with mushroom and toast and coffee grounds, over nuances of brioche and a fully-matured nutty caramel character. Full bodied with delicate fine mousse and vibrant acidity, citrus and red fruit flavours with a long lingering finish, and opened up further with time in glass to reveal rich apricot and honey nuances – delicious! Photo: Champagne Lanson Finally, there was the Lanson 1975 that had been disgorged on 28 June 2022 with the same dosage of three grams per litre and pressure of 1.06. A blend of 52% Pinot and 48% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Oger & Chouilly. Explosive aromatics of rich honey and toasted brioche with dried apricots, pineapple, ginger and mango and subtle nuances of truffle and mocha – very complex and refined and with time in glass it developed more of the mocha and Herve Dantan 78 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Au c t i o n Photo: Christie’s Images Limited 2023 Photo: Rajiv Singhal coffee and even liquorice and toasted hazelnuts. Delicate fine mousse with vibrant acidity and intense citrus flavours. Linear and long with a great silky texture and a pleasant bitter Seville orange on the finish. Excellent. At the Finest & Rarest Wines & Spirits auction held in London on 30 November, Christie’s offered these exceptional Lanson vintages of 1964, 1971 & 1975 in both bottles and magnums, released specifically for the auction from the Lanson cellars. Also included in the auction was a single bottle of the Lanson 1921, the lucky buyer of which got a special VIP visit to the Lanson cellars in Reims to taste this piece of their vinous history. If you would like to acquire incredibly rare Champagnes, make sure you keep an eye on Christie’s website to register for upcoming Wine & Spirit auctions and put your paddle up. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 79
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FINE Vigneron Text: Bhisham Mansukhani | Photos: Champagne Gaston Révolte I n the vinous lexicon, few words have as many connotations as Champagne. It is the world’s highest standard for sparkling wine, it is a region, and above all, it is an aspiration. For Champagne Gaston Révolte, Champagne has been life’s abiding purpose, central to a present when the prominence of grower Champagne has never been more significant. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 83
The journey began in 1961, when Gaston Révolte purchased a parcel of six hectares in Avenay Val d’Or, a Premier Cru classified Perhaps it is important here to highlight the difference between Champagne from a 'maison' and from a 'vigneron'. village in the Vallée de la Marne known for growing some of Champagne’s best fruit. The vineyards carpet some of the region’s best slopes. While there are a sprinkling of Chardonnay vines, the producer most identifies with Pinot Noir, working diligently to nurse this delicate and difficult grape towards consistent, if not perfect, brilliance. From the onset, the patriarch chose to focus on crafting an artisanal style in the vein of trusted champenois traditions, along with his wife Hélène, and son Hubert who joined the family business in 1980. In 2021, Gaston Révolte’s third generation came aboard in the shape of Alexandre and Nicolas who bring modern verve to a deeply traditional house. The evolving philosophy of the grower Champagne house is to create a unique expression that reflects the terroir of Avenay Val d’Or as well as highlight the attributes of a grower Champagne. 84 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The use of Ardennes horses to harness the vineyards is just one key element. Going back a few centuries, Champagne’s growers would supply fruit to the large Champagne houses, with a handful of exceptions that set aside some tonnage for their own production. This template was severely disrupted in 1994 when French wine guide Gault Millau recognised Anselme Selosse, a small grower Champagne producer from Avize, as the country’s best winemaker. This accolade triggered an aspirational change for many independent growers. Cut to today, when enthusiasts keen on small batch Champagne are more curious than ever to go beyond the marquée brands. It is a good time to be a grower Champagne.
FINE Vigneron All of these trending elements have placed Gaston Révolte in an especially prominent position. Nicolas makes a case for the increasing popularity of the grower Champagne niche. While conducting a masterclass in Mumbai titled ‘The Irresistible Rise of Grower Champagne’, he highlighted some of the key advantages that grower Champagne brands enjoy over other Champagne brands: a close connection between the work in the vineyard and winery, an artisanal approach with regard to vineyard management and deeper attention to individual bottles. The prominence of grower Champagne has never been more significant. Gaston Révolte has pushed the envelope on the distinction of being a grower Champagne maker. In 2006, it reintroduced Ardennes horses to plough the vineyards as well as pull the FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 85
grape wagons during harvest. Deploying horses to work the vineyard is exponentially more expensive than tractors (the region’s modern norm), but the Révoltes believe it is a price worth paying to retain their ancestral viticulture. Ardennes horses are draught horses from the Ardennes region spread across France and Belgium, and ideal for farm work. The wild Ardennes horses were first employed in farm work in the Roman era. Nearly all Champagne growers used these horses until the more economic mechanized options became standard. Gaston Révolte has retained this agrarian tradition which does a lot to aerate and enliven the soil, maintain a delicate balance and improve the vine’s resistance, while making the soil itself less compact. The tireless and obedient horses have an instinctual understanding of the ecology and in their own way, do a lot to nurture the vineyard. They are integral to producing the house of Gaston Revolte’s stellar Champagne expressions and the Révoltes regard them as part of the family. The illustration of the horses on the bottles bears out that genuine emotion. 86 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
one key element of Gaston Révolte’s overriding philosophy of manual intervention that pervades the house’s approach from Champagne houses touch the bottle by hand only twice, at Gaston Révolte the bottle is touched at least 12 times. The house underlines its belief that it is important to be as grape to bottle. Apart from the investment in Ardennes horses, close as possible to the Champagne terroir in which it has been the family employs at least six permanent employees to tend manipulated. With an annual production of just over 40,000 to individual vines. As required by the appellation, all grape is bottles, Gaston Révolte has the enviable dilemma of choosing handpicked. The handcrafted philosophy extends to bottling between connoisseurs and the vanilla consumer. In an era as well. Every step, including ridding, disgorging, dosage and populated by a generation thirsting for grower Champagne, final packaging, is done by hand in the 16th century cellars Gaston Révolte is at the top of its game, thriving in the purple of the house. Nicolas emphasized that while on average most patch of the niche whose time is now. > FINE Vigneron The use of Ardennes horses to harness the vineyards is just Tasting Notes BRUT TRADITION 1ER CRU BRUT CUVEE SPECIALE 1ER CRU Blend of Pinot Noir 80% and Chardonnay 20% with dosage of 7 g/l. Gold hues with canary reflections. Lively effervescence. Fresh citrus, notably lime, gingerbread with a touch of honey. Round and supple. Blend of Pinot Noir 50% and Chardonnay 50% with dosage of 6 g/l. Brilliant bright gold and limpid. String of fine bubbles in the glass. Aromas of dried fruits underlined by a touch of biscuit. Yellow fruits like apricot dominate. In the finish, notes of morello cherries. Elegant maturity. ROSÉ ÉGLANTINE BRUT 1ER CRU CUVÉE DU 3E MILLÉNAIRE BRUT 1ER CRU A 100% Pinot Noir (blanc de noirs) with a dosage of 9.5 g/l. Deep pink with light amber reflections. Fresh aromas of red fruits like raspberry and cherry and some hints of candied fruit. Rich palate with a lot of fresh fruits. Long and full finish. Very fresh. A 100% Pinot Noir (blanc de noirs) with a dosage of 6 g/l. Lustrous old gold. Vegetal and floral with some gingerbread, candied fruit and vanilla. Powerful and instantaneous, showing pleasant expression of maturity. Nice length and a smooth thirst-quenching finish. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 87
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FINE Co-operative Enchanting Champagne Giant Text & Photos: Rajiv Singhal N estled in the Côtes de Blancs, the grand cru commune of Chouilly is home to a co-operative that has ascended the ranks. Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, in under four decades, has attained an enviable position among the Champagne houses. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 89
Nicolas Feuillatte’s story begins with the daring and flamboyant French businessman who channelled his post-war fortune from African coffee into Champagne vineyards in the 1960s. Feuillatte lent his name to the ‘Cuvée Réserve Particulière’, which soon became the toast of an elite American circle of his friends. A collaboration with Henri Macquart in 1986 led to the founding of the Centre Vinicole – Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte. In the 1970s, Macquart had mobilised vignerons into a ‘union co-operative’, successfully 90 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA securing consistent year-on-year returns on the grapes as well as significant negotiation power during bumper harvests. Building on the founders’ values of audacity, creativity and generosity, Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte has grown ten-fold in the last two decades alone. Today, despite being among the youngest of the Grandes Marques Champagne houses, it is the best-selling brand in France and ranks third in the world by volume, producing around 11 million bottles annually.
FINE Co-operative This success is rooted in a unique model that draws on the commitment of 4,500 growers – almost one in three of the whole Champagne region – who collectively contribute 2,100 hectares of area under vines. And in part to being ‘disobedient’ and bold. The brand is positioned as accessible luxury – playful and informal and ‘No Occasion Necessary’. Transparency, commitment, boldness, trust and humanism are the values at the heart of the cooperative’s philosophy. Members are urged to be daring and innovative, fostering a spirit of transformation that keeps the brand at the forefront of the industry. This vision is embodied in the ‘Espace de Nicolas Feuillatte’, inaugurated in 2017 to showcase the brand’s contemporary signature. Anchored to the vineyards and blending harmoniously into the landscape, the striking curves of its façade evoke the image of the gently rolling hillsides – its vast spaces offer breathtaking panoramic views of the Côte des Blancs and vineyards along the Vallée de la Marne. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 91
In the same year, Christophe Juarez was appointed Managing Director. He has accelerated the premiumisation and internationalisation of the brand. The new emblem of Nicolas Feuillatte represents the intricate relationships at the heart of the brand: people (the grower adherents), vines (its leaves and grapes), hearts (symbolising emotion), and a star (for international excellence). At Nicolas Feuillatte, the art of assembling blends has been perfected. Guillaume Roffiaen, who took over as Chef de Cave in 2017, commands access to an exceptional selection of crus that includes 11 of the 17 Grands Crus, 26 of the 42 Premiers Crus and 145 of the 260 remaining Champagne Crus. The mosaic of soils (sandy, marl and limestone, chalk) that they represent allow for wonderful nuances to emerge. The incredible array of flavours pay homage to these multiple terroirs. A large library of reserve wines – the backbone and precious spice that support the wines’ aromatic and structural potential – helps the winemakers meticulously express their cuvées with their desired personality, regardless of the weather in the vintage. A recent addition to the creative palette is the ‘temple’ that holds oak barrels acquired for experimentation. With all these exceptional crus, soil types, reserves, and oak at his disposal, Guillaume has the liberty of infinite blending possibilities – and with it comes tough decisions. Each time a new cuvée is launched, another has to be killed to make room. Each element must come together in a perfect harmony – making it a work of great precision for Guillaume and his team. This dedication to craftsmanship and innovation is evident in every aspect of the production process. I had the privilege to be guided through the facility by AnneLaure Domenichini, Director of Communications. The tour combines sensory experiences with digital technologies, and is as fun as it is educational and informative. The state-of-the-art and very artistically designed tank room has many regulated thermo-cooled tanks, most with a capacity of about 350 hectolitres. Led up a metal staircase, I got the view ‘from the top’. The familiar, enchanting aromas of fermentation – sugar and yeast bonding with each other – engulfed our senses. The instrumental music played to have a calming effect – not on me but on the wines in the tanks! 92 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Co-operative White canopies on the tanks and balloon-like noise cancelling contraptions further save the wines resting in the tanks from any noise pollution. The walls of the tanks serve as screens projecting the chemical reactions taking place during fermentation, and in this silence, the wine team explain some process highlights like the formation of the prise de mousse. At such a large operating facility, the various steps of the methode champenoise are mechanised – automation and robots have taken on the iterative tasks to assist the 250 workers. As harvest time approaches, the normally bustling bottling line, capable of producing 20,000 bottles per hour, falls silent. Quality cannot be hurried. The ageing cellars are lined with neatly and scientifically stacked bottles, resting undisturbed until enriched by lengthy contact with the lees. The gyropallets – rows of them as far as the eye can see – are sweating away all hours of the day, riddling the millions of bottles that will proudly be dressed in the Nicolas Feuillatte ‘robes’. The relationship between all stakeholders is strong. Close collaboration ensures quality on every step of the way – from the grapes nourished in the vineyards to the winemakers who create the inimitable house style that is defined by precision, elegance and finesse. Sustainable viticulture, vineyard mechanisation, harvesting protocols and soil analysis are on the agenda for periodic – sometimes weekly – updates and trainings. The impact of global warming, environment and wine tourism on the vineyards are issues discussed at the annual ‘Vignoble and Qualité’ (Vineyard and Quality) day. Even the logistics are handled with precision, with drivers trained to navigate strict regulations to ensure that every drop of the right must is collected from the right place at the right time and is transported back to home base. The result of all these scrupulous processes is nothing short of magical. These masterpieces are created over time, reflecting the balance, finesse and freshness of the famed terroir. Every element aligns to create these Champagnes. Nicolas Feuillatte promises enchantment with every sip. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 93
Réserve Exclusive Brut Réserve Exclusive Rosé Varietal: 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay. Varietal: 45% Pinot Noir, 45% Meunier, 10% Chardonnay. Appearance: Pale straw. Appearance: Salmon pink with amber hues. Nose: Pear and apricot. Palate: Light, fresh and vibrant. Expressive fruit with a touch of maturity. Finish: Lingering citrus. Inside Information: The signature style of the house that is aged 3-4 years, and uses around 30-40% reserve wines to guarantee the intrinsic style. In a nutshell: Easy going. Versatile. Nose: Light summer y aromas. Redcurrant and raspberry with a hint of Gariguette strawberries. Palate: Basket of red and summer pudding fruits. Finish: Clean and delicate. Inside Information: This rosé is made in the ‘assemblage’ (blending) style with 11% of still red wine from Pinot Noir. Aged for 2-3 years. In a nutshell: Nuanced for the summer. Vintage Collection Blanc de Blancs 2012 Vintage Collection Brut 2009 Varietal: 100% Chardonnay. Varietal: 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Meunier, 33% Chardonnay. Appearance: Bright golden. Nose: Intense aromas reveal fresh honey, with mint and coriander. Palate: Elegant and graceful. Purity underpinned by fresh spring flowers. Finish: Crisp freshness supports the delicate minerality. A generous finish. Inside Information: Aged for at least 6 years. This is the ‘return of the Ice Age vintage’. The temperatures went lower than the 10-year average. Reims recorded -20.9°C on 3rd February. In a nutshell: An absolute blast. Appearance: Pale gold. Nose: Perfectly harmonious. Aromas of honeyed apricots develop and linger. Palate: Intensely ripe Mirabelle plums, with a hint of pastry. Finish: Releases a great flourish of energy for perfect balance. Inside Information: Aged for at least 7 years. The vintage was very ripe with well-defined contrasting seasons – cold winter, wet spring and hot summer – that gave aromatic and concentrated juicy wines. In a nutshell: Impulsive, yet majestic. 94 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
Grand Cru Millésime Blanc de Noirs 2010 Varietal: 100% grand cru Chardonnay. Varietal: 100% grand cru Pinot Noir. Appearance: Medium golden. Appearance: Bright straw. Nose: Subtle, but accomplished delicate white flower aromas. Nose: Intense. A spicy dimension. Palate: Silky. Fresh citrus fruits with spicy hints of clove. Palate: Rounded. Subtle fruit flavours in a framework that brings depth with finesse. Finish: Long, light finish, accentuated by lively chalky minerality. Finish: Powerful and vigorous. Perfectly rounded. Inside Information: Aged at least 6 years. This was a miracle vintage – eventually excellent in very challenging weather conditions. The old saying “August makes the harvest” was so true. Great ageing potential. Inside Information: Aged for 9 years, released in 2019. The vintage was generous and sunny, characterised by weather extremes. The intensity will temper and age well over time. FINE Co-operative Grand Cru Millésime Blanc de Blancs 2012 In a nutshell: Pinot Noir power. In a nutshell: An unconditional delicacy. Palmes d’Or 2006 Palmes d’Or 2006 Rosé Varietal: 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay. Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir Appearance: Golden. Nose: Fine honey, bees wax, dried and tropical fruits with a touch of toast. Palate: Exuberant. Fleshy and creamy body. Appearance: Salmon pink. Nose: Rich and mature crushed strawberries. Juicy and full bodied. Palate: Adorned with sumptuous maturing red fruit and delicate peppery spice. Insane balance. Finish: A harmonious burst. Finish: Delicious till the last drop that unveils sensual pleasure. Inside Information: Palmes d’Or is a work of art – this prestige cuvée Champagne is for those seeking the finer things in life. This is one of three great vintages of the decade – powerful and remarkably well balanced. Inside Information: Typifies Pinot Noir to perfection and is an exemplar of the perfect balance of powerful Bouzy fruit and its subtly perfumed Ricey counterparts. Made by ‘saignée’ method, bleeding colour from black grape skins. In a nutshell: Intimate and timeless. In a nutshell: To-die-for at the end of the meal. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 95
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FINE Maison Tasting Dom Perignon with Vincent Chaperon Text: Suchet Singhal M any don’t believe me when they learn that my very first taste of an alcoholic beverage was Champagne. Essi Avellan MW tutored me through a glass of Taittinger at the launch of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. Since then, I have tasted some very fine examples of what this renowned appellation has to offer. Some are more special than others, but a couple of tastings guided by Vincent Chaperon, Chef de Cave of Dom Perignon, stand out for me as memorable. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 97
I had the rare privilege of being invited to a private one-on-one tasting at the Abbey of Hautvillers, the private property owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH), where Vincent guided me through a to-die-for line-up that took off from where the last one left. Previously, I had been guided by him at Annabel’s in London, when star sommelier Clement Roberts MS put together a line-up of Dom Perignon Plénitude for a small group of fellow members. Historians record the Abbey of Hautvillers in the Champagne region as the birthplace of the magical bubbles. Its cellars were the playground of the 17th century Benedictine monk, Dom Pierre Perignon, who perfected pioneering winemaking into specially crafted bottles. Fast forward three and a half centuries, in the same setting now meticulously restored, Vincent leads his 98 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA team to piece together the iconic cuvées of the brand that bears the name of the ‘Father’ of Champagne. The free-wheeling tête-à-tête with Vincent (some of which will stay off-the-record) furthered my appreciation of the effort that goes into creating these masterpieces, as each of the seven labels enchanted my senses. The bar is very high at Dom Perignon because only the best can be bottled. Vincent crafts what has been widely regarded as one of the world’s most prestigious Champagnes with an infectious passion. I gained insight into the very strict protocols that are in place and the artistry that he brings to winemaking. Born in Bordeaux, Vincent started his Champagne journey in 2000 at Moet & Chandon (also owned by LVMH) and moved to the iconic brand Dom Perignon in 2005, where for 13 years he was mentored by the
The Tasting the harvest of intuition and viticultural mastery. It was generous and well-structured with an exuberant maturity. 2008 was grey and overcast. Dom Pérignon 2008 was somewhat reluctant to open up and struck a balance The long table with a breath-taking view of the estate was set for two with seven bulbous glasses on linen table mats, and napkins crested with the golden keys to the Abbey. A monogrammed card and a spittoon (just in case) sat beside each place setting. between floral and fruity layers with some hints of First up was a trio of the recent Dom Pérignon vintages – 2012, 2010, 2008 – as if to whet the appetite. 2012 threw up challenging winemaking paradoxes. Dom Pérignon 2012 was fresh and rich, mature and concentrated, vibrant and explosive with a dominating energy that was etched in my memory from the Annabel’s tasting. And harmonious overall. This comparative had been presented at Annabel’s Spring 2010 was late and the hot summer expressed itself in the ripe tropical fruit. Dom Pérignon 2010 was intensity, retains precision and presents exceptional FINE Maison finest in the business, Richard Geoffroy. In 2019, he took over the reins of the flagship from Richard when he was appointed Chef de Cave – he was just 43 years old. spice. Backbone of integrated acidity and promising persistence. Then the stars were brought out – the P2 2004 and 2003 vintages poured by the liveried personnel. as well; at the time P2 2004 was an exclusive prerelease tasting. Vincent told me that Plénitude was born under Richard’s watch with a vision to leverage a continued evolution through extended ageing and elevate the wine to a new summit of expression. “The P2 (Deuxième Plénitude) enhances aromatic freshness.” FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 99
2004 was a standout year. Moderate conditions allowed good vine development and perfect ripening. Dom Pérignon P2 2004 exuded the sublime signature maturity. Longer ageing lent depth and density. Surprising boldness stood out on both occasions. Persistent and elegant. 2003 was a very early harvest imposed by the scorching summer. Dom Pérignon P2 2003 revealed a balanced personality. Fresh with toasty minerality just like the previous occasion. Creamy candied fruit. Sensation of salinity. Intense maturity and concentrated structure unfolded. In between flights, I asked Vincent about the challenges he faced. “We are expected to be consistent in very difficult conditions that are changing all the time. We try to retain our creativity and maintain harmony. I decide three key dimensions: Does the 100 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
We wrapped up with the flight of rosés. 2006 contrasted between warm-dry and cool-damp with short heat waves. Dom Pérignon 2006 Rosé was characterized by fruit ripeness and striking fullness. It packed a punch of flavours and was round, smooth, generous, lingering. FINE Maison year merit a vintage? Will we make a Rosé? Can we put away some bottles for the Plénitude project?” 2008 was deprived of light and warmth with a grey overcast summer, which was more than compensated by an unusual pre-harvest sun. Dom Pérignon 2008 Rosé was a bursting bouquet of red berries and well-structured acidity. Bold and full bodied. Persistent finish. A truly exceptional experience in a historic location. It was indeed a very special opportunity to have ‘tasted the stars’ with the creator in his lair. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 101
Photo: Shuttertock 104 Champagne at Versailles FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
FINE Event T Text: Ritu and Rajiv Singhal he ‘Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne’ is a world-renowned wine fraternity that celebrates the heritage, tradition, and excellence of Champagne. Its origins can be traced to 1656, making it one of the oldest French guilds. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 105
The French Revolution took its toll on Les Trois Coteaux as they were known, and it was not until 1956 that some champenois revived this guild as the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne (OCC). Over the years, the Ordre has become instrumental in the protection and promotion of Champagne. It presents the wines of Champagne in all their diversity; highlights their specificities and everything that contributes to their prestigious image; honours the traditions and meticulous craftsmanship; and supports the cause of the Designation of Origin. Every year, many chapters are rolled out around the world to further fuel the global influence of Champagne through a network of members who are conferred with ranks of Chevaliers, Dames Chevaliers, Officiers and Chamberlains. For the historic Chapitre de la Fleur de Vigne 2023, the dignitaires and the OCC team were able to secure the landmark world heritage and monument historique in France – Château de Versailles. Four hundred years ago, King Louis XIII built a modest hunting lodge in the village of Versailles secluded in the middle of the marshes and abounding 106 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: Ayo Ogunseinde/Unsplash Three noblemen at the Court of King Louis XIV – the Marquis de St Evremond, the Marquis de Bois Dauphin and Comte d’Olonne Mortemart – were particularly fond of wines from three Champagne coteaux (communes), Aÿ, Avenay and Hautvillers. They inspired the guild’s coat of arms, with three grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier) on either side of the pomponne – the stemless glass that was placed upside down in a cooler to taste the wine that some early Champagne makers had begun to sublimate with a sparkling process at the right temperature.
FINE Event in game – Saint Simon called it ‘the gloomiest and most barren of all places’. An ode to four centuries of history, this modest pavilion was embellished by the best to become a perfect expression of French art in the Grand Siècle, to enhance the glory of the king. Its 2,300 rooms spread over 63,000 sq. m were embellished with the very best by royal decree. The wines of Champagne have been associated with the long history of the Château de Versailles. Wine from Les Riceys was given to the workers on the hunting lodge site. King Louis XIV was an early patron of this sparkling wine which was becoming fashionable – striking the senses, sharpening wit and awakening gallantry. At his coronation on 25 October 1722, the 12-year-old King Louis XV drank a little of this enchanting wine diluted with water – sparkling Champagne was presented at the sovereign’s coronation for the first time ever. The King preferred solitude to escape the burdens of protocol. Champagne – an excellent disinhibiting agent in moderation – was his perfect companion. Louis XV took a liking to it and accounts share that the libated king would be a cheerful and brilliant conversationalist within the relaxed company of a few guests. Champagne was welcomed with a place of prominence in the royal courts and on the tables of the powerful and influential alongside the great wines. It was to such a majestic power table, laid out for the friends of Champagne in the private quarters of His Majesty the Sun King in Versailles, that we had the singular honour and pleasure of being invited by Charles Goemaere of the Comite Champagne. The FINEst wines from the FINEst region in the world were celebrated at the FINEst venue with the FINEst selection of guests on a very special date for a FINE couple. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 107
On a bright sunny evening, we arrived at the Royal Gate of the Palace, which was destroyed during the French Revolution and restored in 2008. As we were ushered through security it was as if we were teleported into history to experience the pomp and grandeur of a golden era. The forecourt had come alive with the symphony of bugles, trumpets and drums. We were welcomed into the grand home of French Kings by their ‘troops’ dressed in the centuries old traditional attire in vibrant colours. We felt like the royal couple as we were photographed against the imposing backdrop of the Palace – at the same spot where President Macron welcomed King Charles III some months later. We made our way to the Orangerie with a very strong breeze and several musicians keeping us company. And we couldn’t control our urge to capture the expansive landscapes and manicured gardens with intricately chiselled sculptures on our phones, despite gentle reminders from the ushers that our walk to the venue was not short. Photo: M Jolyot The setting sun bathed the rotunda entrance where all the Champagne cuvées that would be on offer that evening were presented in all their glory – in magnums and some in jeroboams. We made our way to the presentation area and took our front row seats for the intronisation ceremony. 108 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
The formal ceremonies over, the fountain gardens were thrown open and the first Champagne selection was presented by the owners or officials of the brand. Guests were free to make their choice of brands – the nimble ones managed to taste more than the ones who got caught up in conversations or the newly minted Chevaliers who were busy with this once-in-alifetime photo opportunity. FINE Event yet out of his teens when he was inducted at the Chapitre des Vendanges 2019, also at the Palais du Tau. We were guided back into the Orangerie, where the gala dinner had been laid out for nearly 400 guests from 20 countries. All tables had communes as their names. We were seated at Vertus at the top of the seemingly endless long hall which was pillar-free – an architectural marvel. A toast was raised to the Grand Siècle, or ‘Great Century’, during the reigns of Louis XIII and Louis XIV, that was marked by significant developments in art and letters and a Commandeur Christophe Juarez of Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte welcomed all guests to the very special evening and emphasised the commitment of Champagne and the champenois to devote resources to safeguarding this French heritage, and inviting the world to discover the cultural riches that were on offer. He paid tribute to Louis XV, the first monarch to have served Champagne at his table. The Château de Versailles is highly symbolic for any maker of ‘the wine of kings and the king of wines’. The dignitaires, each an iconic personality in Champagne, flanked the Commandeur in their flowing white robes on the stage draped in the OCC crest. The Commandeur raised the pomponne – a ritual object of the Ordre – to induct the diligently selected members who pledged their allegiance to Champagne amidst fanfare reminiscent of the Renaissance. Intronisation into the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne is a mark of distinction for those who have made a significant commitment to Champagne and its values. Ritu saved her induction as the first Dame Chevalier from India for this very special Chapitre de la Fleur de Vigne 2023 at the Château de Versailles. It was a very special honour for the Singhal family, as she became the third from “the most champenois of Indian families” to be intronised – Rajiv was inducted into the Ordre as Chevalier at the same Chapitre de la Fleur de Vigne 2012 at the historic Palais du Tau in Reims. Our son Suchet was not FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 109
powerful global position. Gratitude was expressed to those who honour gastronomy and the wines of Champagne. The elaborate four course menu was presented by Frédéric Anton, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, three stars at the Guide Michelin since 2007, Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, who has been at Le Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower since 2020. The service by the Maison Lenôtre team was perfect – Ritu got her vegetarian options with the rest of the table – and the cloches were raised simultaneously for all the guests at the table. The grand finale was the captivating fireworks display in the gardens – a fitting end to a royal evening. For this special day, we were treated like royalty by the OCC Teams – a big thank you. Champagne and all its talented producers glittered through this evening that was a celebration of the French art de vivre in the very setting that birthed this phrase. Champagne is a lifestyle that represents excellence, celebration, sophistication and achievement. The Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne stands as a testament to its enduring allure that radiates around the world. > 110 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
Champagnes Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 1996 Disgorged in January 2012, this low dosage cuvée is made from a selection of Chardonnays originating from the Grand Crus vineyards of Oger and Le-Mesnil-SurOger. It shows a deep golden colour with green hues and very fine bubbles. The nose presents notes of iodine – almost salty on opening followed by an opulence of candied fruits with some aeration. On the palate, the wine is ample, with unbelievable power yet persistent freshness. Chalky minerality and exceptional depth complete the finish. The label was created by Italian artist Sandro Chia on the theme “Profondeur”. FINE Event The Canard-Duchêne Cuvée V 2012 Brut Nature V for Victor Canard – this cuvée pays tribute to one of the founders of the House. During the 2012 harvest, Cellar Master Laurent Fédou, was charmed by the quality and character of certain terroirs of Pinot Noirs and Meuniers. Pale gold in hue, the wine reveals an initial brioche nose, with aromas of ripe yellow fruit such as mirabellle plum, then on aeration elegant raspberry aromas. As the wines develops, light notes of cedar wood appear. A certain minerality and salinity sublimate a beautiful structure and a lot of freshness in the mouth. The finish is persistent and long, with a slight hint of grapefruit zest. Deutz Amour de Deutz 2011 Devaux Cuvée D Millésime 2008 Made exclusively from Chardonnay, mainly from Avize, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger and Oger. The wine displays a crystal-clear golden hue, delicately supported by smooth effervescence. On the nose, it shows a rich and complex intensity: the deep distinct bouquet reveals notes of stone fruit (apricot and peach) accompanied by subtle aromas of pastry almost like ‘tarte tatin’. The wine wraps the palate in a velvety lace complemented by long-lasting aromas. The silky, lingering finish is prolonged by a fine touch of fresh butter. A blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay coming from the Côte des Blancs. To the eye it shows a deep golden colour with pale straw yellow hues. The nose reveals aromas of white peach, zests of citrus fruit and brioche notes. In the mouth, the attack is fresh and straightforward over citrus notes which offer a persistent elegance. The finish reveals dried fruit and pastry aromas. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 111
De Venoge Princes Blanc de Blancs 1999 This vintage, made of 100% grand cru Chardonnay, perfectly reflects the House style: finesse and elegance. On the palate, it is powerful and refined, with a certain minerality and a perfectly balanced acidity. The ripe fruit flavours such as apple are complemented by notes of cream and toasted brioche, adding depth and complexity to this outstanding wine. Drappier Millésime Exception 2012 A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. The very complex, rich nose reveals hints of white fruits, almond and fresh ginger. On the palate, it is lightly creamy with good lightness and suggestion of brioche. A floral touch testifies to the high proportion of Chardonnay while the depth of the Pinot Noir is expressed in the form of red fruits and appealing bitter notes. G. H. Martel Millésime 2012 A blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. Its colour shows honeyed golden hues. A fresh nose of white fruit, especially pear: subtle notes of nuts, vanilla and a mineral touch. A fresh, elegant palate, with citrus on the entry. The structure is solid, grainy and very pleasant. G.H. Mumm RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2013 Reserved to a privileged circle of Maison Mumm’s friends and produced in limited quantities, this cuvée is exclusively made from Chardonnay grapes from Cramant, a grand cru. The 2013 harvest was late and exceptional with very good quality ripe grapes. The vintage is rich in sugar revealing a both creamy and lively wine. Relatively low pressure of 4.5 bars enables the wine to fully express its minerality as well as its subtle sparkle. To the eye, it shows a light and luminous hue and the nose expresses fresh flowers, lemon and fresh fruit flavours. The attack is elegant and is followed by lively and expressive finish. 112 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
Henriot Millésime 2002 A blend with a majority of Pinot Noir. that creates fruit and structure, complemented by Chardonnay, which provides a fresh, elegant finish. It displays a bright paleyellow hue with extremely fine bubbles. This luscious and elegant wine expresses notes of pastry (nougat, frangipane) and aromas of fresh fruit (orange and mirabelle plum). A delicate note of Passe-Crassane pear bringing a hint of Poire Williams liqueur can be detected as the wine warms up. On the palate, an energetic wine with nice tension and fresh fruit aromas (nectarine, yellow peach). The finish is clean, saline and mineral, leaving a lovely hint of bitterness and verbena. A unique interpretation of a singular year, this blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay is a particularly expressive Champagne made of charisma and character. The notes reveal yellow fruits accompanied by roasted and toasted dried fruits. On the palate, the power is channelled by an airy profile, persistent freshness and citrus notes on the finish. FINE Event Gosset Grand Millésime 2015 Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Vintage 2012 A blend of 54% Pinot Noir and 46% Chardonnay that originates mainly in the grand crus of Ambonnay, Mailly, Chouilly and Cumières. To the eye, the wine shows a bright and shiny golden colour. The first nose recalls aromas of brioche, followed by some spicy and peppery notes. The entry is gentle followed by a fine and elegant acidity. Complex and balanced notes of camomile, dried apricots and dates follow, ending on a delicate, mineral and refined length. Lanson Le Vintage 2012 Imagined by Hervé Dantan, Chef de Caves of Maison Lanson, this vintage is characterized by its aromatic intensity and complexity. Fruit of a unique year that was full of contrasts, this wine reveals an exceptional sense of harmony. It presents an almost perfect balance between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from only Grands and Premiers Crus. It has a yellow colour with golden tints and fine and persistent bubbles. On the nose, notes of candied fruit, dried apricots and almonds are punctuated by aromas of acacia honey and sweet spices. On the palate, density, texture and freshness come together in wonderful harmony. The texture feels generous, offering notes of honey, brioche and dried fruits. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 113
Thienot Cuvée Alain Thiénot 2008 Michel Gonet Les 3 Terroirs 2017 This cuvée is made up of 100% Chardonnay that come from the vineyards of Le-MesnilSur-Oger; Montgueux and Vindey. The wine shows a beautiful golden colour; as well as fine, persistent bubbles. The nose displays great complexity with subtle aromas of white flowers, stone fruit and citrus, followed by notes of toasted almond, brioche and butter. On the palate, it is lively, escorted by mineral purity. The nose evolves on pastry fragrances, it is a smooth, rich and velvety. Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or 2005 Brut This prestige cuvée expresses the vast diversity of Champagne soils in a powerful wine, with a complex and distinguished structure. The blend champions a selection of 100% grand cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims as well as 100% grand cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. It shows a unique and defining character brought by the addition of 70% of Chardonnay from Montgueux, more intense and aromatic. The eye presents a deep jewellery gold colour and the nose is marked by a beautiful maturity with notes of dried fruits and orange pekoe. During the tasting, the palate is ample, dominated by creamy apricots and a touch of nut, followed by a more rounded mouthfeel of mild spices such as nutmeg. A very long finish enhances the experience. 114 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir that has aged twelve years in the House’s cellars. To the eye it shows a delicate pale gold colour. The nose is complex and expressive with notes of fleshy yellow fruits, mango, dried flowers and lightly toasted bread. The palate is suave and fresh with silky effervescence and exceptional length. Billecart-Salmon Vintage 2009 This is a deeply sculpted vintage with an exquisitely distinctive character. A blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 27% Meunier, mainly originating from grand and premier crus. The yellow colour has soft golden undertones. The nose is intense with citrusy and nutty notes (grapefruit pulp, slivered almonds), complemented by pastry scents. The palate is a tactile delight (chestnut cream, fresh blueberries and shortbread). The wine rises to a distinguished complexity with a persistent finale.
Perrier-Jouët Cuvée Belle Époque Rosé 2012 Beyond rare vintages, Grand Siècle aims to recreate the perfect year, one that nature alone cannot provide, through blending three exceptional vintages chosen for their complementarity. Since its launch in 1959, only 25 blends, known as ‘Iterations’, have been released. Iteration No 23 in magnum is composed of the vintages 2006, 2004 and 2002. The Chardonnay in majority and the Pinot Noir in balance is sourced from a selection of 11 grand crus. This iteration benefitted from a long ageing time on less of 14 years. Its expression is of a fine champagne having developed depth, an intense and complex aromatic whilst retaining its freshness and vivacity. This is the House’s deliciously unexpected interpretation of the genre: a floral vintage yet also rich and voluptuous. Although marked by difficult weather conditions, 2012 nevertheless produced wine with promise. This cuvée characterized by the aromatic richness and freshness of Chardonnay, balanced out by frank, lush pinot noir and fruity Meunier grapes. Delicate in appearance yet extravagant in taste, it unleashes alluring notes of rose and peony and small red fruits. To the eye, it shows a pale pink robe with coppery reflections and the frank attack is followed by a beautiful roundness with a long silky finish. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Event Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Iteration No 23 115
SPOTLIGHT Champagne Photo: Naiim de la Lisière Text: Anne-Laure Domenichini 116 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA
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elcome to the Kingdom of Bubbles. Champagne is a delimited wine region of only 34,000 hectares along the Marne river in La Region Grand Est. The region has built a stellar global reputation as the eponymous birthplace of a wine that was legalised by special Royal Decree three centuries ago. With its hillsides bejewelled with vineyards, the houses where generations of talent express the terroir in its sublime effervescence under very challenging conditions, and the historical cellars network dug into the chalk soils (Coteaux, Maisons et Caves de Champagne), the region was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 2015. Only a short fast-train ride from Paris, the Champagne region offers cultural and historical heritage, scenic natural beauty, and the unique experience of exploring the world of Champagne with the champenois. The ‘Route Touristique du Champagne’ is marked out for visitors to discover stunning landscapes in a land where for centuries, French kings were crowned in ancient cathedrals. The importance of cuisine cannot but be emphasised and pairings with Champagne are much sought after. Thoughtful cafés and cozy bistros add to the charm of the dining offers. Many chefs in the region have earned their Michelin stars and other global distinctions and captivate diners with their artistry. The Editors of FINE are grateful to a dear friend, AnneLaure Domenichini. who has highlighted a few of her favourite restaurants scattered across the region, all with one thing in common – the views. > 118 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: Naiim de la Lisière W
This discreet restaurant is far off the beaten track, sitting in a square in the pretty village of Chenay, in the Massif de St Thierry, 15 minutes from the hustle and bustle of Reims – and just 5 minutes from home! It is an address merely known to locals – and to visitors on a road trip along the Route Touristique du Champagne – and a real treat. The setting, a restored farmhouse, is ultra contemporary and spacious, showcasing clean lines and natural materials such as wood and stone, in an elegant and intimate atmosphere flooded with light. For the main features of the dining room are its large windows overlooking grapevines. It feels like eating out in the middle of the hillsides, in a rare communion with nature. The carte is precise and minimalistic: it offers two interesting menus (three or five courses) and options only available for diners with allergies or dietary requirements. It is a welcome change not to agonize over what to choose and to be guided only by Chef Benoît Merot’s savoir-faire. He pledges for a 100% French and seasonal cuisine, with locally sourced produce. The result? Beautifully laid out plates, tasteful and creative. I particularly like his take on cheese: not just slices served on green leaves, but a full-fledged dish. The wine list has more than 250 references, including a fair share of Champagnes from my Meunierled neighbourhood. Give them a try! Attis 3 Place Boisseau, 51140 Chenay Dinner Monday to Thursday. Lunch Friday and Saturday. Booking essential. +33 3 26 04 06 33 www.restaurantattis.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Spotlight ATTIS 119
LE BOCAL Close your eyes and listen. Can you hear rolling waves, the seagull’s calls and feel the gentle breeze bringing the salty smell of the sea? Open your eyes. Le Bocal (The Fishbowl) is the nearest you can be to the seashore while in the heart of Reims’ famous Boulingrin foody district, opposite the marketplace. This tiny boutique restaurant offers the largest collection of oysters amateurs can dream of, from all coastal corners of the country (Fine de Claires from Oléron island; the haute couture Gillardeau; Creuses from Brittany; Fines de Gouville from Normandy – you name it, they’ve got it). Why not start with a Happy Oyster, every day from 6pm to 7pm? The concept is original and ensures the freshest sustainable ingredients: Le Bocal is located at the back of the city’s most celebrated fishmonger stall, La Poissonnerie des Halles. Depending on daily deliveries, the Chef Anaïs Bonnard takes her pick 120 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA and creates dishes that change every day, according to the catch of the day. Yearnings for a taste of the ocean can be satisfied with a large selection of smoked fish, tartares (organic salmon, swordfish, red tuna, cod, blue shrimp), fish paste and roe, and caviar, bien sûr. But the pièce de résistance are the amazing seafood and seashells platters taking pride of place on the cute little tables. Each is made to order, according to your likings: crab, lobster, crayfish, shrimps, prawns, clams, whelks – and more oysters, please! The experience wouldn’t be complete without a glass (or two) from the thoughtfully selected wine list: each entry has been chosen to pair specifically with your choice. Take the plunge! Le Bocal 27 rue de Mars, 51100 Reims Closed Mondays and Sundays. Booking essential. Tel: +33 3 26 47 02 51 www.restaurantlebocal.fr
FINE Spotlight CAFÉ DU PALAIS We’ll always have Paris. Well, we’ll always have Reims, rather! Forget the Café de Flore on the romantic Left-Bank in the chic and arty Saint-Germain des Prés. Reims has its own Café du Palais, opposite the Tribunal (Palais de Justice), a beautiful café turned curiosity cabinet and art gallery where all the city’s intellectuals, journalists, lawyers, artists, fashionistas, and students alike flock to see quirky statues, installations, extravagant mirrors, and portraits scattered on walls and shelves in an elegant bric-abrac. The family-owned café, founded in 1930, holds a special place in my heart as it is where my future husband invited me on our first date. We started chatting timidly at the back with a cup of tea; we can now reminisce with a glass of champagne in the Art Deco conservatory. It is also possible to have light lunch: the menu offers regional delicacies (Langres, Chaource cheeses, Boudin Blanc de Rethel white sausage salad, Reims ham cuts) and a trolley topped with home-made desserts: try the floating island with its generous serving of vanilla sauce or my favourite ice cream made with the famed biscuits rosés and a slice of indulgent lemon cake. Delicious! Café du Palais 14 Place Myron Herrick, 51100 Reims Closed Mondays and Sundays. +33 3 26 47 52 54 www.cafedupalais.fr FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 121
LA GRANDE GEORGETTE On the lookout for a room with a view? Introducing La Caserne Chanzy, the only luxury hotel located in front of the impressive Cathédrale de Reims, where France’s Kings were crowned until Charles X in 1825. The hotel’s Art Deco building is steeped in history too as it used to host the city’s central fire station (la caserne in French). Its bistronomic restaurant, La Grande Georgette, takes its name from the original fire engine, which, according to tradition, would bear the name of the captain’s wife. This very chic brasserie’s industrial design is also inspired by the firemen’s uniform (red and blue) and wine coolers are antic fire buckets used to extinguish fire. Well, to quench your thirst, a sommelier (one is a retired Premier League football player) is on hand to talk you through the great wine list where Champagne houses are in the front line, many by-the-glass from magnums, which is always a good idea. The open kitchen is a fascinating show when eating indoors: watching the brigade in pristine white aprons cutting, slicing, sizzling, and dressing is like watching Swan Lake at the Opera House. In warmer days, the terrace overlooking Notre-Dame is the place to be. It’s breathtaking. The chef’s proposals are inventive and delicious. His watermelon and cucumber infused in verbena was a dream starter on a hot summer day, and looked just as pretty on the outside as it tasted fresh and cooling on the inside. Signature 122 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA dishes include roasted sweetbread with parmentier, pollack and cauliflower, Brie de Meaux stuffed with walnuts and chocolate tart. Service is impeccable, efficient, and friendly. You will leave with a smile on your face – just like the famous Smiling Angel fronting the Cathedral. La Grande Georgette 18 rue Tronsson ducoudray, 51100 Reims Open daily, lunch and dinner. +33 3 26 83 18 18 www.lacasernechanzy.com
Nestled in the 17-acre leafy park of Les Crayères in Reims, Le Jardin (The Garden) is the acclaimed ‘small’ address of of the Michelin-star Chef Philippe Mille, one of the most talented craftsmen of his generation. Protocol is left at the door to offer a cuisine free from the codes of structural rules, without compromising on service and the same demanding quality. Le Jardin offers a two-fold ambiance between its bucolic terrace in SpringSummer, which can be heated on cooler days – and there are a few, we are not on the French Riviera – overlooking a vegetable patch where the chef grows his culinary herbs, and an immense loft-like conservatory designed around an open-kitchen. The staff is the friendliest and most attentive of the city, despite the affluence. This hot spot is extremely popular for its great value, generous servings, feel good factor of easy art de vivre à la Française. The carte reflects the chef’s commitment to sourcing the finest local ingredients (there is a dedicated regional set-menu) while delivering high standard brasserie’s classics: foie gras, pâté en croute (meat pie) – crab mayonnaise, braised lamb, filet of beef in pepper sauce, sole meunière and fingerlicking good French fries, sprinkled with parmesan or fresh thyme. The best in town. Did I tell you that one of my never-go wrong Champagne pairings is actually with chips? FINE Spotlight LE JARDIN DES CRAYÈRES The award-winning wine list is fine-tuned and impressive – not just with Champagnes from across the appellation but also Bordeaux and Burgundy. Le Jardin is Eden. It ticks all the boxes and is open seven days a week, no small feat in France’s restaurant desert on Sunday evenings and Mondays! Le Jardin 7 Avenue du Général Giraud, 51100 Reims Open daily, lunch and dinner. +33 3 26 24 90 90 www. lescrayeres.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 123
This new kid on the block – the complex opened in 2022 – is already making quite an impression on locals and visitors alike. A tell-tale sign is when you are still struggling to book a table once the surprise effect has disappeared. Location is key and this one does not disappoint: set at the edge of a deep forest in Mutigny, on the outskirts of Aÿ, Loisium Wine & Spa Champagne Hotel sits on a scenic hill overlooking expansive vineyard views. It is soothing – and 50 shades of green wherever you look at. Its design is ‘brut nature’, with floor to ceiling windows and wood to blend in with the landscape. The setting is ideal to enjoy a relaxed meal in the spacious restaurant, decorated like a chic eco-lodge. The chef is committed to supporting a sustainable development policy in the kitchen and is resolutely locavore. For each dish, you know exactly who the producer is and how far it has travelled before ending on your plate: vegetables from La Borde farm (7.1 km), tagliatelle and penne made of wholegrain wheat flour from Christophe Nomine (11.5 km), poultry from Champagne lowlands (28 km), Argonne goat cheese (66.5 km). Reading the menu feels oddly familiar, like being introduced to an extended family of long-lost relatives. 124 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA But the menu is anything but rural. It is creative, infused with herbs and delicate spices. Everything is fresh, delicate, pretty as a picture. Each dish is totally Instagramable, even if the clientele is not made of influencers but of like-minded people in search of an authentic experience. The Chef’s Table, available exclusively on bookings for small parties, offers a more intimate and gastronomic relationship with nature. A breath of fresh air! Loisium 1 Allée de la Sapinière, 51160 Mutigny Open daily, lunch and dinner. +33 3 10 01 82 00 www.loisium.com Photo: Alexandre COUVREUX LOISIUM
Once upon a time when carriages were a luxury reserved to Kings and a handful of aristocrats, the Royal Champagne was a much-appreciated stop on the way between Reims and Paris. Nowadays, it is a single purpose destination, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, where you DO feel like royalty indeed. FINE Spotlight LE ROYAL CHAMPAGNE It is best to enjoy the Bellevue restaurant at dusk when the thousand crystal pendants suspended from the dining room’s ceiling are lit. Truly mesmerizing. I feel like Cinderella entering the fabulous ballroom before her dance with the Prince. As its name suggests (Bellevue means ‘beautiful view’ in French), the panorama promises to be… beautiful. But it is an understatement. For the view from the restaurant’s commanding terrace must be the best the region can offer. Whatever the season. There are Champagne hills, designated as World Heritage Site by UNESCO, as far as the eyes can see, spanning the prestigious Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne and skimming the Montagne de Reims on your left. It is awe-inspiring to marvel at picturesque villages clinging on top of historical vineyards such as Hautvillers – of Dom Perignon fame – on your right. On clear days, I can see my state-of-the-art office at Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte in the far end, in (grand cru) Chouilly. I just adore having a lazy lunch or informal dinner on the spot – the menu serves French classics and Italian creations by the newlyappointed Executive Chef Paolo Boscaro. But I think I equally love sipping a glass of Champagne at sunset in autumn, when the landscape seems on fire with 50 shades of browns, reds, oranges and yellows. You then truly apprehend the richness of this glorious changing nature that produces a wine fit for a King. But the King of wines. Le Royal Champagne 9 rue de la République, 51160 Champillon Open daily, lunch and dinner. +33 3 26 52 87 11 www. royalchampagne.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 125