Volume 3 Issue 2 Q2 2024 R 90 Jamun Summer Cooler Schlenkerla Smoked Beer Grape Growing Part Nature, Part Robot

contents what’s inside Technology Part Nature, Part Robot Tradition Jamun 4 Liquid 10 Wine 22 Health Oceanic Vineyards Protein Beverages 14 Port 26 Tea World of Wine Matcha 18 28

contents News Sustainability Sustainable Spirits Bar Reka:Bar 31 Whisky 48 Beer 60 Bar Moods & Moments Schlenkerla Smoked Beer Library Bar - Liquid Literature 38 Gin 52 Cocktail India’s Gin Evolution Planter’s Punch 44 56 66 Liquid 5

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publisher’s Volume 3 Issue 2 Q2 2024 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Consulting Editor: Navni Kumar Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Contributing Editor: Bhisham Mansukhani Design: Sandeep Kaul Cover: Lakeview Vineyard Equipment Digital: Udit Singhal Contributors: Brita Dasgupta Inder Raj Ahluwalia Nandita Kaushik Nikhil Merchant Ranak Mann Saket Joshi Uday Varma Xenia Jamshyd Lam Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Press Registrar General of India (PRGI) Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. note T his summer, the Indian capital was gripped by a severe heatwave. We were treated to intolerable record-breaking high temperatures that consistently threatened to breach the 50°C barrier – maybe the mercury was nudged over by the political heat from the results of a hotly contested general election. Disruptive extreme weather conditions are forcing us to stay ‘protected’ in temperaturecontrolled areas – as if we were bottles of treasured vintage wine! We may well be, but we need to preserve ourselves for our long lives ahead. As we seek relief, we are beginning to pay attention to the past, when we lived happily in the pre-air conditioning era. Grandma’s recipes are being dusted, and traditional concoctions that have been known to boost immunity and relieve ailments, are being rediscovered. Some creative thinkers are crafting humble and ignored ingredients into lip-smacking beverages with the help of advanced technology. Healthy products with a longer shelf life in attractive user-friendly (and ecofriendly) packaging are on offer. These innovative launches are vying for shelf space with traditional favourites. Consumers are spoilt for choice and by prices in downward spirals. Constantly challenged to keep the share of throat of the consumers, some start-ups are being chased with eye-popping valuations. But is their profitability a concern for their shareholders? Let that be another discussion for another note. I remain confident that the potential in India for beverages (which Liquid has been highlighting for the last two years) is unparalleled – after all, we need to quench the thirst of 1.4 billion people! Liquid 7

technology Grape Growing Part Nature, Part Robot G rape growing has an 8,000-year history in Europe and has been a very traditional affair. In the beginning, most of the tasks in the vineyards were done manually. Then, vineyards multipied and vignerons looked for support for these tasks. Animals were commissioned, before they leaned on the industrial revolutions that brought more machines into play. Some estates pride themselves on the and the wine making process. Recent developments in machine learning, GPS, and the internet of things have fuelled innovations in automated agriculture which is being effectively extended into vineyards. The robots are performing simple tasks such as deweeding under the vines as well as more advanced tasks such as mapping vineyards for pests and soil continuity of these traditions even today. They nurture the vines by hand, harvest the grapes by hand and process them into wine – mostly by hand. However, the scarcity of labour poses some concerns here. In addition to machines, precise technologies are now encompassing various tasks in vineyard management 10 Liquid The growing cycle is intense and stressful for farmers, who have to take care of disease management, workflow, and unpredictable weather.

technology type. Traditionally, the de-weeding was done with to harvest their fruit within the window declared by the help of horses, ploughing close to vines, before the appellation, if not the quality (and quantity) is lost. the explosion of glyphosate and such harmful This created opportunities for companies such as chemicals. I resist saying those were the olden Pallenc who design machine harvesters. Evolution days: some ancient practices are coming back. On of these machine harvesting mechanisms has been my way to work, I enjoy a beautiful juxtaposition of extraordinary – from sorting by berry sizes to optical machines working in vineyards and horses doing lasers fine tuning the selection process. These robots the same job in neighbouring parcels. Growers are have revolutionised large scale processing. And now looking for alternative methods because consumers there are robots for almost all the tasks that the grower are becoming more aware of ecological and needs to do, such as spraying, removing rocks, environmental damage intensive agriculture does. mowing under the vines, etc. Tractors were a god-send for the growers, but tractor use can lead to compaction of the soil, that can harm The drive towards sustainability is irresistible for the root development. farmers. But, just as with any other new technology that Companies such as Naio and Bakus have been at expensive and out of reach for small-medium scale the forefront of fabricating robots. These automated robots drive along the rows of vines carrying discs to cut the weeds close to vines. The mechanism is very sophisticated and relies on detectors so that vines are not damaged. has been introduced in the past, these robots are quite farmers. The nineties generation would remember the excitement of the internet, CD ROMs and the bricksized Nokia phone which could be accessed by only a few who had the means. Fast forward, and all these technologies and gadgets are affordable, robust, and tiny compact. I dare say, it may take a few years of need a reliable team to be available on short notice groundwork, feedback and adaptation for these Photo: E. Petitclerc Harvesting is a labour-intensive process. Growers Liquid 11

technology weather conditions. Like in all other business activities, The challenge will be how to modernise yet maintain the charm of human touch in the vineyards. there is the need to build a team of loyal workers, train them and hope for the right results. Growers are under constant pressure to find such workers. There is the romanticism of working in vineyards, being in the sun, close to nature but when the mercury in the vineyard management technologies to become more affordable and accessible. vineyards breaches tolerable levels, it is not pleasant to work in these conditions. The desire to engage in these back breaking jobs in erratic weather conditions is fast reducing in the new generations. The availability the manual labour workers in vineyards, whose of the labour force in the growing seasons can be a livelihood is dependent on these jobs. It is true that headache. These automated technologies present an with technological advancement, the need for human alternative and at the same time take out the human labour will be reduced. There are two sides to every errors in maintaining quality. story and this one is no exception. We have seen the impact of technological revolution on the labour force in the past. There is a window of opportunity, to have a vision for our labour force so that they are Photo: Pellenc That also raises the question of what happens to not dependent on these hard, physically demanding jobs given the harsh reality of global warming. Maybe machines and technology won’t replace humans in vineyards or farms completely, but it will surely affect the scale of it. The other side is the changing climate and change in work culture post pandemic. The growing cycle is intense and full of stress for the growers who have to worry about disease management, 12 Liquid workflow, and the unpredictable Pellenc harvesting machine

technology Photo: Naio Artificial Intelligence (AI) is playing a role in other areas of the wine industry. Recently, the University of Geneva was able to detect wine composition so precisely using AI that it could pinpoint the year of the wine and its producer from Bordeaux. This is expected to impact the sommeliers – robotic tasters could be the future. AI is also fuelling data driven winemaking and monitoring. Cameras and sensors are being deployed throughout the winemaking process to maintain the quality, eliminate the errors and ensure that the process remains compliant. The challenge for the wine industry – both winemakers and vineyard managers – is going to be how to be modern and use resources most efficiently yet Naio robot maintain the familiar charm of human touch in this industry without becoming a Chinese factory. As automation continues to evolve, so will the industry. The need for automation shouldn’t be at the cost of human jobs. There is a middle ground here of developing technologies and automated machines that will assist the existing labour force in their tasks future, I will see robots doing their jobs in vineyards alongside humans – a win-win for all. L Saket Joshi graduated in Wine Sciences from the University of Auckland and has been working in viticulture and winemaking in USA, New Zealand and France for the last 12 years. Photo: Shutterstock and not replace them outright. I sincerely hope that on my way to work in the near Liquid 13

wine Oceanic Vineyards T he term ‘terroir’ might well be the most used in the wine lexicon but definitely not without merit. with cool climate characteristics, rich flavours and a The delicate balance of nature and human influence a commonality of breezy climates, tempered by the in the creation of wine cannot be overstated. Some protection of stark mountains, that lends them a wine regions benefit from an additional natural unique advantage. element that occupies 71 per cent of the planet: the ocean. distinct maritime character. Oceanic vineyards share This advantage has its roots not just in the natural attributes that coastal vineyards enjoy but in human While oceans themselves can’t sustain vineyards, history as well. Going back centuries, many of the the human endeavour of planting vines near these world’s coastlines were historically studded with vast bodies of water has led to the creation of grapes vines to facilitate the trade of wine and satisfy the 14 Liquid

wine appetite of seafarers. Notable examples include the regions makes them stand out, challenging the belief Western Cape and Bordeaux. While some plantings held by inland wine estates that contrasting day night faded due to unhelpful conditions or redundancy, the temperatures are essential for making good wine happy combination of proximity to a oceanic trading as the grapes develop flavours under the sun while route and great terroir, sealed their destiny as a retaining vital acidity by night. seaside vineyard. Coastal vineyards, however, are heavily influenced The maritime influence isn’t without its challenges, by ocean currents, which can potentially influence key among them the absence of the diurnal advantage specific climate zones. These currents, depending on and the creeping impact of global warming which geography, create either cool afternoons and balmy might lead to the permanent immersion of the very nights or the opposite, with no extreme change in vineyards the seas presently benefit. That said, temperature. Warm currents result in warm nights coastal wine regions are endowed with the gift of and vice versa. Consequently, the grapes develop elegant and generous expressions that they keep on a concentration of flavours and more distinctively, giving, vintage after vintage. a balance of the elements that make up the wine. To begin with, the saltiness of sea spray imbues the grapes with a tinge of sodium chloride which shows up on the palate as a layer of minerality. Delicate red wines especially benefit from oceanic fog that moderates alcohol levels and softens the tannins. The anti-diurnal characteristic of coastal wine The vines by the sea thrive on the generous maritime influence, and continue to deliver stellar vintages. San Antonio Liquid 15

Photo: South African Tourism wine The Western Cape The saltiness of sea spray imbues the grapes with a tinge of sodium chloride which shows up on the palate as a layer of minerality. mountain ranges and on the vines. Sonoma Valley’s famous Pinot Noir owes its near-perfect polyphenolic ripeness to the cold Pacific Ocean whose breeze descends on the delicate grapes, relaxing them after a long day under the sun. Oceans also extend the grape’s growing season, thanks to moderate temperatures. The fallout, at This is a fair trade-off for the slight loss of acidic times, can be reduced yields but coastal winemakers backbone due to the absence of different day night attest that the resulting balance and concentration of temperatures. flavours make the sacrifice worthwhile. Daytime breezes from the Mediterranean Sea While climate change has already begun showing contribute to the elegant Sicilian styles tinged with its adverse effect in key wine regions and has been salinity while the Western Cape lines a coast, serviced driving viticulture further north, coastal vineyards by currents from the Indian and Atlantic Ocean, still enjoy relative stability of weather, albeit with which absorb the relentless summer heat and deliver the hanging sword of rising sea levels which might the wind which bounces back off the protective someday breach the vineyards. The vast oceans have 16 Liquid

wine tended into something grand for the ages. For now, appreciation of old world approach, owes much of its the vines by the sea thrive on the generous maritime success to the confluence of the Antarctic Benguela influence, and continue to deliver stellar vintages. Current of the Atlantic and the Agulhas Current of the KEY COASTAL WINE REGIONS San Antonio, Chile Indian Ocean. These currents generate an arsenal of incoming winds, lovingly referred to as ‘Cape Doctor’. Driving down the smooth asphalt towards Chile’s Sonoma Valley, California rugged coast is pleasant enough, with the promise Napa Valley is the synonymous first among equals of breezy styles of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The when it comes to edifying American wine excellence. sight of the rolling vineyards has had many a tourist The Sonoma Coast is not far behind, offering rubbing their eyes in disbelief due to the striking its aficionados the delight of sumptuous wines similarity with the French regions. Leyda Valley lines and surreal views of the restless ocean from the the Pacific coast, windswept by the ocean and manicured vineyard perch. Sonoma’s superb Pinot livened enough by cool currents that help produce Noir is undoubtedly a gift from the raging Pacific that the country’s finest examples of the twin Burgundian mothers the finicky grape every night of the growing grapes and floral Rieslings. season, with cool breezes, extending its growing The Western Cape, South Africa season and creating a style that regales with flavour, body and impressive length. L winemaker, embracing oenological freedom and an Bhisham Mansukhani Photo: Shutterstock South Africa’s status as a peerless new world Sonoma Valley Liquid 17

World of Wine Exploring Port I Photo: Shutterstock port t was a glorious sunny day, with clear blue skies and a mild breeze. We were walking in the charming always at war with France, found their wine reserves Ribeiro neighbourhood of Porto, in Portugal. We wine needs and Portugal came to their rescue. The crossed the traditional quaint colourful houses on wines that sailed from Porto and Douro, would often narrow cobblestoned roads, leading to the river Douro. be found unfit for consumption by the time they arrived The atmosphere was relaxed and lively. We were in Britain. Truly, necessity is the mother of invention. heading towards Dom Luis 1, one of the many bridges Some clever merchants decided to fortify the wine to cross the river to Villa Nova de Gaia, the hub of port with brandy to arrest the fermentation. Thus, was born production and warehousing. Historically, here were Portugal’s most famous export – port! the ports from where port was transported to European markets. depleting. They looked to other countries to fulfil their Port can be made only with grapes grown in the Douro – its fertile vineyards yield some of the best indigenous Vinho do Porto or Port, is a fortified sweet wine grapes like Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinto produced only in Porto in Portugal. Its creation was Roriz and others. Some grapes are still pressed by quite by accident. In the 17th century the British, the traditional method of foot-treading or stomping by 18 Liquid

port humans, which is done in wide, open-top tanks called lagars. The short fermentation process is halted by the addition of grape spirit brandy (a lot of which is imported). This gives port its sweetness and very high alcohol content. Wine tourism is becoming important in Portugal. We headed to the newest offering for wine enthusiasts – World of Wine (WoW) – in the wine quarter on the Douro’s south bank. It puts the spotlight on Porto’s rich cultural and historical traditions of wine making. This newly created cultural district includes seven museums, twelve restaurants, many shops, a temporary exhibition space, event spaces and a wine school. Walking the narrow, maze-like roads, one hardly expects the scale of WoW as it emerges There are four styles of port – Ruby, Tawny, White and Rose. Ruby port is a deep red colour like the stone. Choose between Vintage – aged for two years in a barrel, bottled and aged more (best after 20-40 years), Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) – aged for four-six years in barrels and meant to be drunk young; and Reserve – similar to Vintage but meant to be drunk young. The typical flavour profile would be berries, spices and chocolate. Ruby ports are served below-room-temperature. Our first tasting was the wonderful Quinta Do Infantado Ruby NV, made with Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. The Class A vineyards are family-owned. This port had more natural alcohol and less sugar. Photo: Interamerican Network Vinho do Porto or Port, is a fortified sweet wine produced only in Porto in Portugal. almost suddenly – a large, spectacularly designed series of old wine warehouseconversions set on a slight slope. World of Wine Liquid 19

port Less ‘aguardente’ or grape brandy was used which made it drier and so more ‘wine-like’, making it a favourite for those like us who don’t enjoy the cloying sweetness of ports. Contrary to common belief, it can be Tawny ports are made with red grapes and aged for at least two years in barrels. They are sweet and a bit nutty. The common flavour profile is caramel, hazelnut, clove and fig and they are served slightly chilled. We tasted the Niepoort 10 year aged Tawny. It was clearly a dessert wine – sweet and fruity – and very refreshing. profile is strawberry, violet, raspberry, of the meal. Rose port is the new style made by maceration like rosé wine. The flavour cranberry and caramel. Served ice cold, they make for excellent hot weather, day-time wines. Port pairs wonderfully with rich cheese, more so blue cheese, and perfectly accompany chocolate and caramel desserts, salted and smoked nuts and even meats cooked in sweet sauces. Port wine is a handy ingredient in cooking, especially in making reduction sauces, chocolate sauces and in chocolate cakes. After our port binge, we tottered back to Porto. Did I mention the atmosphere was relaxed and lively? L Brita Dasgupta’s love for reading, writing and travel have led her to chronicle her experiences on travel, history, food and beverages for the last two decades. Photo: Shutterstock White ports are made with the indigenous white grapes like Rabigato, Viosinho, Gouveio and Malvasia. Apricot, citrus peel and roasted nuts is the flavour profile shown. There are two styles of white port: Standard and Reserve. Standards are lighter, less sweet, more citrusy. Reserves are bolder, nuttier and sweeter having been aged for seven years. White ports are served cold. We were offered the Fonseca Siroco – crisp, dry and fruity. served as an aperitif not just at the end 20 Liquid

An initiative of the

tradition Summer Cooler A Jamun s the summer temperatures touched intolerable highs this year beating all records, the humble Indian summer berry ‘jamun’ took centre stage. clothes – the indelible stains infuriated me – and on the ground, creating more work for the cleaners. Like all seasonal fruits, the chunky black jamun It brings back memories for many of us who grew up berries were a part of our daily meals and my mother in India. I remember the jamun, coconut and mango ensured that I always had some to keep healthy. trees in my home in Mumbai. Jamun stood out as Jamun was initially not my favourite as I found it it was the only one that I had this love-hate relation very puckery, and it stained my teeth and tongue. with. The fruit would drop down on my bicycle and But under pressure, I soon realised that the softer 22 Liquid

tradition and plumper ones were sweeter, flavourful and tasty compared to the hard and leaner ones, especially with a pinch of black salt. Popularly known as Indian blackberry, Java plum or Malabar plum and scientifically called Syzygium Photo: Krish Dulal cumini, jamuns grow abundantly across the Indian Jamun seed powder subcontinent. The most known variety of this fruit is the oblong shaped dark purple fleshy berries with a light violet pulp and a centre stone while white jamun – white flesh with hints of green – is the lesser-known Photo: Arogyasathi1984 variety. Liquid 23

Photo: thecrmblestories.com tradition Jamuns can be consumed in several ways – whole fruit, pulp, juice or dehydrated jamun seed powder. In ancient times, Ayurveda practitioners attributed jamun with the medicinal virtues of healing, cooling and revitalising. This health packed power fruit is rich in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals and can be used to manage diabetes, and digestive imbalances, and improve cardiac, respiratory, oral, skin and hair health. It appeals to weight watchers as it has a low glycaemic index and high fibre that keeps hunger pangs in control. Jamuns can be consumed in several ways – whole fruit, pulp, juice or dehydrated jamun seed powder. Dark jamun is often used to make juices, smoothies, syrups, sorbet and sauces while the white one is sweeter and is ideal for making jams, preserves and jellies due to the natural thickening agent called pectin. The seed powder has a subtle nutty flavour, mild sweetness with a touch of bitterness and is used 24 Liquid Photo: ASAV Jamun preserve

tradition often for medicinal purposes to treat metabolic, liver wines. ASAV Winery from Telangana and Resvera and kidney disorders. Winery from Nashik have both been creating their Jamun based beverages are getting increasingly variants of jamun wine. popular, whipping up nostalgia for some and a wellness story for others. The highly astringent fruit with its pleasant and powerful flavours is being used by mixologists to infuse cocktails and mocktails and it has even found its way into the range of Indian fruit I strongly urge you to also enjoy this versatile fruit in your drink. I have some recipes for you try out below. Sante to your good health! L Ritu Singhal Photo: chews_n_chuckles JAMUN SHOTS Ingredients: De-seeded jamuns 250g, crushed ice, pinch of black salt, sugar to taste Garnish: Mint, salt, lemon Preparation: Rub the lemon on the rim of the glass and dip the rim in a plate of salt. Chill the glass. Blend all ingredients well. Pour this liquid fruit into a shot glass and garnish with mint leaves. You can turn this JAMUN BELLINI Ingredients: Monin Spiced Jamun Syrup 20 ml, lime juice 10 ml, sparkling wine 60 ml Garnish: Jamun slice Preparation: In a wine glass, add all the ingredients and stir. Gently pour the sparkling wine and let it sit for one minute until all the liquids have blended or stir gently with a stirrer. For mocktails, sparkling water or sparkling juices are your go-to. Garnish with a slice of jamun and lime. Photo: eatingbirdfood.com Photo: kannanskitchen.com into a cocktail by adding 10-20 ml vodka. JAMUN LASSI Ingredients: Deseeded jamun 1/2 cup, yoghurt 1/2 cup, honey 1 tbsp, crushed ice Garnish: Jamun slice, mint leaves Preparation: Slice the washed jamuns and discard the seeds. Chill the sliced fruit and yoghurt in the freezer for 30 minutes. Blend all ingredients. Pour the lassi in a tall glass and garnish with jamun slices. Serve immediately. Liquid 25

health Protein Beverages A Whey of Life W hey isn’t new. It was accidentally discovered by farmers making cheese in Poland, around remained a popular ingredient until the 18th century. 5500 BC. When goat milk was treated with acid, it to whey being discarded as a by-product, sometimes would split into two parts: solids and liquids. The used as fertiliser. liquid part was whey protein in its purest form, which would serve as a starter for the next batch of cheese. As time went by, its usage evolved. That was when industrialised cheese production led It was not till the early 20th century that whey’s composition was officially studied, and its high protein content came to light. This was a major In ancient Greece, Hippocrates started prescribing milestone and shortly after, people started drying it for many ailments including boosting the immune whey to make it into the powder we are familiar system. He referred to it as a ‘serum’. In Europe, whey with today. Until very recently, whey protein was 26 Liquid

health an ungodly amount of protein to build and sustain their 6 (or 10) packs. Fuelled by a growing fitness culture, the demand for protein beverages has skyrocketed in recent years. The recommended daily protein intake is 0.8g per kilogram of body weight for adults but increases to 1.1g for those who exercise regularly (FYI, a single whole egg packs about 13g of protein). Consuming enough protein is essential for building muscle, managing weight, and maintaining overall health. As more people become aware of their protein needs, many discover they fall short. Since diet alone often can’t meet these requirements, protein shakes have become increasingly popular. Supermarkets now dedicate entire sections to whey powders, offering a rainbow of flavours, protein content levels, and even vegan plant-based options. Fitness enthusiasts often grab a scoop of their chosen powder for a post-workout shake. But for those on-the-go or short on time, a plethora of ready-to-drink bottled protein beverages line the shelves, offering an instant protein punch. Most of these contain 12-24g of protein per portion and can cover an entire meal’s protein requirement. But is all that glitters gold? Protein shakes can be a valuable addition to your Prioritise products with clean ingredients and explore the exciting variety of flavours and protein sources. By making informed choices, you can ensure your protein shakes complement your diet without compromising your health. L Navni Kumar LIQUID PICKS The Whole Truth Light, clean, sweetened with monk fruit. Comes in cold coffee & light cocoa variants. 24g protein. Raw Pressery Protein Milkshake Banana-honey, mint coco and cold coffee. Comes in a nifty 200 ml bottle. 18g protein. Cosmix No Nonsense Plant Protein Not whey. Made with pea and rice isolate. Comes in mint cacao and Mahabaleshwar strawberry flavours. 24g protein. Muscle Blaze Comes in chocolate and unflavoured variants in 500g and 1kg packs. 12g protein (in the Beginner’s variant). Photo: Getty Image/ Shutterstock associated with serious bodybuilders who needed diet, but they shouldn’t replace whole meals. Replacing a meal with a protein drink can leave you missing out on essential nutrients like healthy fats, fibre, and vitamins. While protein shakes offer undeniable convenience, concerns surround their content. Some brands have been criticised for containing excess sugar, calories, and hidden ingredients like artificial sweeteners, fillers, and even traces of metal! With such potential drawbacks, it’s crucial to weigh the pros and cons before incorporating protein shakes into your diet. Consulting an expert can help you determine your specific protein needs and choose the right product. You can navigate the ever-expanding world of protein shakes and find the perfect option for you. Liquid 27

The Reali-tea of F Photo: Shutterstock tea Matcha irst sipped in monasteries of ancient China, Zen Buddhist monks discovered that green tea aided their meditation and resulted in a zen state of mind accompanied by an alertness. The same tea is now seen in the hands of glamazon models on the streets returned to Japan after finishing his Buddhist studies in China and was unaware that he was at the brink of creating a global cultural phenomena. Matcha means grounded tea. The act of preparing of Los Angleles, health influencers on social media matcha and consuming it, is considered to be a and on menus of trending cafes. Matcha has had a form of meditation to this day. However, it was not modern revival but its roots trace to soils of Ancient only limited to the monks. Matcha permeated the China and Japan. Centuries ago in 1191, with a palm palates of Samurais in the 14th and 15th centuries. full of seeds, Myoan Eisai, a Zen Buddhist monk The Samurais believed the same tea rituals performed 28 Liquid

As the beverage went international, shops started offering a wide variety of flavours and customisation options. Photo: Shutterstock tea by the monks helped them develop discipline, mental fortitude and a heightened sense of awareness. The cultural evolution of matcha continued to grow in Japan and was consumed by the elite, proving to be synonymous with luxury and sophistication. But like all good things, its popularity started to wane, giving way to cheaper alternatives. Matcha brewed in the forgotten corners of comestible history until it witnessed a resurgence in the late 20th century. The tea came into the limelight for its health Photo: Shutterstock benefits such as improved heart health, metabolism, Iced Matcha latté DID YOU KNOW? • In ancient China, tea leaves were harvested, steamed and compressed into bricks for transportation. • To make tea, a piece was broken, pulverised and then mixed with hot water. • In Japan, there are 30,000 tea farmers of which 500 produce only matcha. • Matcha is a form of green tea but is made by grinding an entire tea leaf. • The highest grade of matcha is grown in near darkness. • A good matcha is made with granite stone, which produces the finest powder. • Ceremonial matcha is now being grown in India. Matcha powder • Matcha can be had with milk, water or in desserts. Liquid 29

tea creating their menu solely based on it. Many matcha based recipes are being successfully served in India. In Delhi, consider visiting The For’est, Harajaku Tokyo Cafe, Burma Burma and Kampai. In Mumbai, Kofuku, Origami, Yazu and Heng Bok are popular spots. If in Bangalore, drop by Sante Spa Cuisine, Azuki Travel Bistro, Kawaii Mochi Bar or Harima for a nice cup of matcha. L Photo: downshiftology.com Ranak Singh Mann is a writer and designer based in Delhi. He loves sunflowers and sundowners. Harajaku Tokyo Cafe reduced inflammation, rich antioxidants and the presence of L-theanine, an amino acid believed to promote relaxation. As interesting as the history of this drink may be, the harvesting is equally intriguing. Grown in shade, the leaves of matcha are further shaded by bamboo three-four weeks prior to harvesting. This process boosts the nutrients levels and helps chlorophyll work harder in colouring the plant to the distinct green that is visible. There are two kinds of matcha – ceremonial and culinary. The former is rich in taste, loaded with antioxidants and is said to be grown in Uji near Kyoto, MAKING THE PERFECT MATCHA AT HOME What you need: Matcha powder (1/4 teaspoon) Small stoneware bowl Fine mesh strainer (to sift clumps) Bamboo whisk Hot water (1/4 cup) Japan. The latter comes from the second or the third Additional hot water (1 cup) harvest, is less rich in antioxidants, not as vibrant in Optional: Honey, maple syrup or an alternative sweetener to taste. colour and tastes bitter. Ceremonial matcha can be purchased from brands like Glow Glossary Matcha, Tasse de Thé, Karma Kettle, Heapwell Japanese, Luxmi Estates and KimiNo. Culinary matcha is available to purchase from Vahdam and Tencha. The popularity of matcha has been increasing by the year and cafes (and even bars) around the world are 30 Liquid Step 1: Sift the matcha into a mug or small bowl. Step 2: Pour the 1/4 cup of hot water and use a matcha whisk and whisk in a “W” pattern until frothy. You can do this in a mug. Step 3: Add the remaining hot water and sweeten it if needed.

news Nespresso in India Nespresso, the renowned brand synonymous with premium coffee experiences, will set foot in India by the end of 2024. Delhi will boast a dedicated boutique, offering a luxurious and convenient way to experience the coffee brand. Nespresso’s presence goes beyond this boutique. The brand will also be available online through e-commerce platforms, catering to a wider audience across India. Customers can look forward to indulging in a variety of coffee blends, the signature coffee capsules, coffee machines and a range of accessories. While the Nespresso machines themselves are manufactured in Switzerland, the coffee beans that are used have a special connection to India. Nespresso has been a strong supporter of Indian coffee farmers since 2011, working directly with around 2,000 of them. This commitment extends beyond simply sourcing beans. Through the Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality Program, the brand empowers farmers with training and resources, ensuring the highest coffee quality, farm productivity, and sustainable practices. This program has demonstrably improved the lives of coffee farmers around the world, and Photo: Cyril Zingaro | William Gammuto Sarl Indian farmers have not been an exception. Over 93% of Nespresso’s coffee comes from the AAA program, guaranteeing premium beans and ethical sourcing. This commitment ensures that every cup of Nespresso coffee you enjoy not only tastes exceptional but also contributes to a sustainable future for coffee production. The arrival of Nespresso in India will be a win-win for coffee lovers and farmers alike. The boutique will offer a coffee destination, and India can look forward to enjoying their coffee at home or on-the-go. With its focus on quality, sustainability, and local sourcing, Nespresso promises to be a welcome addition to the ever-growing Indian coffee scene. Cricket icon invests in India Sri Lankan cricket icon Muttiah Muralitharan has set his eyes on a business venture in the beverage industry in India. The cricketer turned entrepreneur set up ‘Muttiah Beverage and Confectionery Private Limited’ and bought 46 acres in the Badanaguppe-Kellambally industrial area of Chamarajanagar district in Karnataka for this project. Recently, Karnataka’s Minister of Medium and Large Industries M. B. Patil announced the scaled up project with an investment of about Rs. 1,400 crore and an assurance that the officials have been ‘instructed’ to sort out some issues being faced at the earliest. Liquid 31

news The company will produce a range of non-alcoholic beverages in cans from soft drinks, energy drinks, flavoured milk and chocolates with production scheduled to begin in early 2025. Muralidharan’s Ceylon Beverage International, one of Sri Lanka’s largest can and filling companies, has a tie up with Reliance Consumer Products (RCPL) to co-pack and manufacture the cans for Campa soft drink. This new venture in India marks a diversification of Muralitharan’s career beyond cricket, reflecting his commitment to leveraging India’s industry-friendly environment and contributing to regional economic development. Central, the World’s Best, in Mumbai from produce that reflect the land, the eco system and the terroir. Wines also precisely do that and are inherently connected to the food by way of texture and flavour that can only be described by the palate experience.” He also highlighted Peruvian wines, which have been underrated, using indigenous grapes namely Torontel, Quebranta and Tannat as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Pisco and Mezcal cocktails are also an essential part of Central’s cocktail menu and the cocktails use infusions of local vegetables and herbs. Emphasising his food philosophy, Chef Martinez mused that when it comes to Peru, it’s not about just cooking ingredients, but rather, cooking attitudes with produce sourced from the depth of the Pacific Ocean to the heart of the Amazon forest and the heights of the Andes. Australia Collaborating with Indian Wine Industry The Masters of Marriott Bonvoy and Culinary Culture hosted Central, the restaurant from Lima Peru, which was rated top of the World’s Best Restaurant 2023 list at the St Regis Mumbai recently. Central’s head chef Virgillo Martinez, who founded the restaurant in 2008, interacted with media and some food writers. Speaking exclusively to Liquid about the integral role of wines and cocktails to the Central ‘experience’, In a landmark initiative, Australian Grape & Wine and Chef Martinez said, “Much like the key ingredients of a Australian Wine Research Institute have begun a dish, wines and cocktails play a vital role in delivering Joint Dialogue on Wine (JDW) with the Wine Growers a uniquely crafted sensory experience that we as a Association of India (WineGAI) under which the restaurant aim to do. All the dishes at Central are made Australians will provide technical expertise and explore 32 Liquid

news collaborations to help the Indian wine industry. This is the realisation of what was conveyed in letters exchanged between Dan Tehan, Australia’s Minister for Trade, Tourism & Investment and Piyush Goyal, Minister for Commerce T Industry, Government of India when the historic Australia-India Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement was inked in December 2022. Lee McLean, CEO Australian Grape and Wine spoke to Liquid about the JDW which he emphasised was moving in a positive direction. “While promoting Australian wine and growing its market in India is a priority, we believe it’s important to help the Indian wine industry improve the quality of its wine. There’s room to make the production more efficient and manage the vineyards,” McLean said. He added that Australia was uniquely positioned for this collaboration given its resources of research, expertise and infrastructure for wine production, that have been developed over decades. Ashwin Rodrigues, Secretary WineGAI shared more on the collaboration with the Australians. “We have been engaging in a dialogue on technical and regulatory matters. A wine research institute for viticulture and oenology in India with technical insights from the Australians is being discussed as is a wine analysis laboratory in Nashik. Tie-ups with Australian universities will aim to provide wine education degrees in India.” In a significant first, Indian and Australian wine delegations will make a joint presentation at the 45th World Congress of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine in France later this year. According to organiser Gargi Kothari, consumer tastings are key to the growth of wine – international and domestic – especially in a relaxed setting where consumers can discover and taste a diverse range of wines as well as interact with wine producers and experts to learn more about the wines that they like. Gargi also highlighted the importance of a conducive environment to taste multiple wines at ideal serving temperature and good quality wine glasses, so that the consumer tasting experience is not diluted and they can taste wines at their best. For the wine companies and importers, this was an ideal space to understand the Indian consumers, their palate and perception of wine. They felt that the event was distinct from other tastings. The consumers did not feel shy or intimidated in asking questions and expressing their preferences. These conversations were very valuable and can go a long way in helping the wine companies tailor their wine portfolios for the long term. Gargi also pointed out that the selection of wines was positioned for several wine drinker profiles, right from beginners to enthusiasts, not to forget connoisseurs. Mumbai Consumers Sip & Savour Fratelli’s New ‘Master Selection’ Magic Cellar launched its Sip & Savour wine and cheese Fratelli Vineyards recently re-introduced its popular tasting for consumers at the Sahara Star Mumbai in Master Selection (MS) range with new labels, which April. The ticketed event featured over 75 wines from were unveiled in late May by Puja Sekhri, Executive around 30 leading Indian wineries and importers. Director & President of Fratelli Wines with Sonal Holland Liquid 33

news An American Spirits Showcase MW. Head Winemaker Giovanni Masi spoke to Liquid and described the relaunched MS range as an elegant and approachable style, reflective of the estate’s unique terroir in Akluj. “The white from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc has a layer of complexity and depth apart from a refreshingly fruity palate. The Sangiovese rosé wine plays up a red fruit expression. The barrel aged MS red marries Shiraz and Cabernet Franc to create a medium bodied red where Shiraz brings intense fruit and spice and Cabernet Franc’s soft tannins give the wine a smooth, long finish,” Giovanni said. Cheers! Spirits from the US – this campaign for American The late harvest is the latest addition to the range, Whiskey was organised by the Distilled Spirits Council produced from Chenin Blanc using the Vin Santo of the United States (DISCUS) in Mumbai in June. The process which entails picking grapes at good acidity tasting by US Department of Agriculture was conducted levels and leaving the grapes in the shade for a month, by Nikhil Agarwal. It featured seven American distilleries, facilitating water loss and concentration of sugar. The seeking to enter the Indian market with Bourbon, juice is fermented in open barrels using wild yeast from Tennessee Whiskey, Rye and interestingly, single malts the atmosphere and then barrel aged for a year. Giovanni also revealed the possibility of adding late harvest rosé from Sangiovese – this will be a first of its kind from India. Puja Sekhri shared the story behind the new labels that feature a local bird. “Hariyal is Maharashtra’s state bird and is often seen atop trees near the vineyard. Interestingly, it never lands on the ground which is an and salted caramel and peanut butter whiskeys. The participating distilleries included Stone Ledge, Ole Smoky, Two Trees and Uncle Nearest and had a geographical footprint beyond the mainstay whiskey states of Tennessee and Kentucky with Missouri, Connecticut, North Carolina and Virginia joining in. aspiration for the MS label and the estate as a whole,” Rhiannon Elms of USDA spoke to Liquid, “This is the Puja said. start of a concerted effort to make American whiskey 34 Liquid

news more visible and accessible in India, which is a large consumer of whisk(e)y. Our whiskey has just two per cent of the imported market and has the potential to grow its market share. Jack Daniels and Jim Beam are well-known, we want to focus on small batch boutique Suntory Opens India Office distilleries with great whiskeys and interesting stories.” Rhiannon spoke about Uncle Nearest, a Tennessee distillery named after a former slave and the first African American Master Distiller Nathan Green who in fact trained Jack Daniels in distilling and perfected the Lincoln Country process that makes Tennessee whiskey unique. The Indian consumers can expect more choice. Allied Blenders & Distillers IPO Japanese spirits group Suntory Holdings announced the formation of Suntory India Private Limited and the office in Gurgaon opened in early July. Masashi Matsumura has been appointed Managing Director. Tak Niinami, President & CEO of Suntory Holdings said, “India is a remarkably attractive market and a key geopolitical player on the global stage. Suntory will enhance our presence as a multifaceted beverage company in this vital market to build foundations in India through investments and partnerships.” Allied Blenders & Distillers (ABD) saw its stock price debut Suntory presently produces Oaksmith whisky locally at Rs. 320, in its post-IPO listing on July 2. This represents and exports its iconic Japanese whiskies Yamazaki and a 13 per cent premium over the upper band price of Rs. 281 in the company’s IPO which was valued at Rs. 1,500 crore. The IPO was, notably, oversubscribed 23 times. Established in 2008 by liquor tycoon Kishore Rajaram Hibiki to India. Some other brands such as Jim Beam and Marker’s Mark also have an Indian presence. The new venture in India will aim to accelerate growth in its existing spirits business and build a firm business Chhabria and his family with associates, ABD is a major foundation. Indian made foreign liquor maker with brands including This thrust by the legacy Japanese spirits brand is Officer’s Choice whiskey, Sterling Reserve and Zoya Gin. focussed on expanding its brief beyond spirits into the In the IPO launched in June, shares worth Rs. 1,000 crore were issued and an offer-for-sale (OFS) of Rs 500 crore in the form of equity shares was made. According to the company, the funds collected from the IPO would soft drinks, health and wellness segment in India. The India office may see the launch of non-alcoholic brands Orangina, Lucozade, Tennensui water and V energy drink. be used to close debts and focus on expansion and The company’s history goes back to 1899 when it was boosting market share. The share price at the time of established as a family business and today operates print was Rs. 300. across Europe, Americas, Africa, Asia and Oceania. Liquid 35

news A Colour India’s Priciest Changing Gin Dram Goa, renowned for its stunning beaches and lively nightlife, has added another feather to its cap, reinforcing its status as the gin capital of India. This time, it’s with the introduction of Nisaki, a colour-changing gin created by Sanchit Agarwal, Nidhi Kedia, and Akhilesh Rajan, who founded Project Peacock earlier this year. Distilled at Goa’s Adinco Distilleries, Nisaki distinguishes itself as one of only two colour-changing gins available in India. These gins, after being distilled with botanicals, are infused with the butterfly pea flower, which imparts a blue colour that transforms upon contact with citric acid. With different mixers, the colours are different – it turns indigo with soda, pink with tonic, and electric blue with water. This interactive feature not only enhances the drinking experience but also educates consumers about their preferences. Rampur Signature Reserve Single Malt has secured its place as India’s most expensive whisky. This ultra-luxury spirit, priced at a staggering Rs 5 lakh per bottle, signifies a landmark achievement for Indian single malts. The Signature Reserve was crafted to celebrate Radico Khaitan distillery’s 75th anniversary. Aged in American oak barrels, it endured the challenges of India’s diverse climates. Notably, some of the oldest malts ever produced in India were blended. In the final maturation stage, selected PX Sherry Butts from Jerez, Spain were used. The limited-edition bottle is a collector’s item – each is individually numbered and signed by the Rampur Master Maker and Chairman, Dr. Lalit Khaitan, further emphasising its exclusivity. The Signature Reserve sits at the pinnacle of Rampur’s single malt collection which includes Rampur, Rampur Double Cask and Rampur Asava, recognised as the Best Nisaki achieves the required balance by distilling 16 World Whisky in 2023. botanicals, including Macedonian juniper, jasmine, and Abhishek Khaitan, Managing Director, expressed his orris root. The resulting gin is a harmonious blend of enthusiasm: “This represents not just a whisky, but a citrus notes, floral hints, and a grassy finish. Nisaki legacy of Indian craftsmanship and heritage.” The limited- is poised to become a vibrant addition to festive edition Rampur Signature Reserve is a testament to the celebrations. exceptional quality that India has to offer. 36 Liquid

launch G Glen Victory len Victory is a classic blended Scotch whisky produced at the Glen Turner distillery in the iconic an amber golden hue and a delectably expressive nose Highlands region of Scotland. This distillery is steeped laced with smoke. The palate begins with a generous in history of over four decades of distilling quality single wave of fruity (citrus and tropical fruit), dry fruit, honeyed malt and blended whiskies. It also lays emphasis on the toast, spices and a smoky finish that lingers along with meticulous craft of charring the barrels used to age the well-rounded character. The finish is moderate and goes whisky, imparting distinct roasted and grilled character down smoothly. to the malt. This blended whisky, now launched in Delhi, Haryana, Water is a critical determinant of the whisky’s quality – Maharashtra, Goa and airport duty free, endears itself to whisky is derived from the Celtic word ‘uisge’ – which those still sitting on the fence. Enthusiasts would find this in the case of Glen Victory comes from the River Lossie approachable Highlands style a comfort tipple to drink which imbues the whisky with the region’s indigenous entirely on its own with the slightest sprinkling of water. L authentic character. Bhisham Mansukhani The grain and malt whisky distiller and blender, Glen A FUN COCKTAIL Turner Company, was established in 1981 by the French Group La Martiniquaise to consolidate its scotch whisky operations which were focussed on the best-selling that interplays floral notes with touches of citrus and spice 1 oz Glen Victory 3/4 oz lime juice, freshly squeezed international brand, Label 5. The company also owns Chilled ginger beer Glen Moray single malt distillery in Elgin and Starlaw Lime wedge grain distillery in Edinburgh. Ice cubes This Scotch blend doffs the hat to the classic Highlands Add the Glen Victory and lime juice in a highball glass style that generously stretches out on spicy and fruity full of ice. Top up with ginger beer. Stir gently. Garnish flavours and subtle smoky element. Glen Victory shows with a lime wedge. Enjoy the smoothness! Liquid 37

whisky Whisky Moods & Moments “ W hisky is not just an alcoholic beverage – it is a statement. There are layers, nuances, complexity of class, origin, grain and tastes that make it so. And then there is a range of brands, price points and types of whisky catering to different age groups and life stages.” An avid whisky proponent looked down his nose as he made this grand announcement. Feeling duly humbled and chastened, I decided to dive deeper and take a closer look at this drink. One of the 38 Liquid first trivia I noted on the Edinburgh Whisky Academy website: “India consumes more whisk(e)y than any other country; nearly one in two bottles is sold in India, Whisky is typically consumed in a relaxed, intimate setting, with close friends or when celebrating special events.

whisky average consumption per capita is 2.6 litres.” Surely, there must be some versatility in this spirit that makes it the popular go-to drink. I put my experience in market research to good use and several discussions, conversations and short surveys with an identified target group revealed strong preferences and brand loyalty. Overall, I inferred that whisky is perceived to suit all occasions and moods. On the one hand, whisky accompanies moods of relaxation and peace and on the other, it is needed to counter stress, loneliness and exhaustion; a companion for the weary. One respondent confided, “when I’ve had a bad day at work, I just treat myself to a peg or more of whisky.” Yet, like any of its contemporaries in the spirits category, brown or white, whisky needs a place, time, occasion and ambience. Typically consumed in a relaxed, intimate setting, with close friends, it fosters atmosphere to be drunk.” It is also ideal to be enjoyed in close, intimate settings or when celebrating special events. Contrary to my own perception, an overexcited, boisterous accompaniment, it is not. a little unrestrained ribaldry that strengthens bonds. Many saw whisky as a journey. As a person grows To cite the fans, “whisky is classic like wine, needs and gains stature, their choice of whisky reflects Liquid 39

whisky this. Motivations, needs and expectations change with prolonged enjoyment of the drink. The young admitted to enjoying their Jack Daniels with coke and the slightly older scoffed – they appreciate only its undiluted finesse. Conversations with connoisseurs revealed The perception that whisky just beckons post-twilight is fast changing – millennials are enjoying their chosen brands at daytime gatherings. that whisky, more so Scotch, has an image of its own. It is described as a classic, acquired and sophisticated drink personified as the ‘gentleman’s drink for those or picnics with the sun accentuating the hues in the glass. who have arrived in life’. However, the flaunt factor The responses also revealed that the whisky palate from the brand conscious nouveau rich was, “the is not an easy one to break into. Though generally a brand should reflect my stature”. smooth drink, its complex palate took some getting Another mood for whisky is nighttime – by yourself, relaxing after an exhausting day and price has a role used to. Younger age groups needed to be eased into it, to acquire a taste for the controlled ‘high’. to play. A regular patron confirmed, “whisky is a night There is patience, delayed gratification and a leisurely drink at home. I can get my authentic bottle duty climb to the alcoholic stupor. Hence the mood is free and savour it.” This perception that whisky just also of quiet, firelit, contemplative solitude or relaxed beckons post-twilight is fast changing – the millennials conversations with a chosen few. It is also one of the are enjoying their chosen brands at daytime gatherings best accompaniments for conversations of quality and 40 Liquid

whisky depth, and a chairperson remarked “wherever one can sit quietly, or talk, whisky fits the best – savour the drink and enjoy the silence or talk.” Another mood for whisky is intellectual – when the knowledge about whisky is flaunted with single malts claiming this space. Considered the gold standard, just deliberation on the drink is an occasion in itself. Here is a passionate hyperbole: “there is whisky and then you have the single malts. They are a category on their own. Many connoisseurs have evenings dedicated to single malt, nothing else. This is their chance to share their exclusive experiences and show off what they know about the drink – how it was made, how it has matured, why the specific taste profile… These people can talk for hours.” It is very evident that the single malt enthusiast is unlike to meld with the crowd. In his words, “single malt is experiential: you appreciate it a little more. When you sit and have a chat with someone while enjoying a nice storied single malt, it’s a special experience.” Blended whisky, Bourbon and other whisky enthusiasts would be entitled to their disagreement. Of course, this is not to say whisky is not versatile. The range is so wide and deep that there is always an option for parties and fun times. Some compared whisky to George Clooney and Tom Cruise – whisky is universally popular but like the two actors, not everyone can relish them similarly. “It is a sophisticated drink for those who have graduated in their taste.” L Nandita Kaushik is a creative writer, content writer, blogger and poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Her first book, ‘Rediscover your Midlife Mojo’ has been launched online and at book stores pan India. Liquid 41

India’s Gin Evolution C Photo: reddit/pankan76 gin olonial legacies can be a problematic subject at the best of times, especially in an era into the growing international thirst for gin that had where national pride surges. One exception is the dint of being the ‘thing to do’. The Indian market was overwhelmingly popular choice of tipple perpetuated ripe for an alternative to the trinity of whisky, vodka and left behind by the British. In fact, there was some and rum. gloating when India was recognised as the world’s Nao Spirits was the first enterprise on the block, largest consumer of whisky. Another legacy from the followed by Stranger & Sons. The first batch of the British is gin, which, unlike whisky, fared poorly as a homegrown white spirit was received with such spirit, often left ignored on the shelf. Indian drinkers enthusiasm and acclaim that the segment quickly begun creeping into the Indian market on the sheer never really took to gin for several reasons, not the least of which was the lack of a drinkable domestic option, modest imports notwithstanding. EARLY CHANGES & GROWTH All that changed in 2017 when a clutch of young entrepreneurs and beverage professionals tapped 44 Liquid The modern Indian gin market still has a long way to go and a wider market to soak in the white aromatic spirit.

gin tempered in the face of a fundamental question: have Indians embraced gin for the long term? Nao Spirits co-founder, Anand Virmani, believes the growth story for the white spirit remains intact and continues to evolve. He contextualises the modern Indian gin story by noting that before 2017, gin sales were dominated by imported gin and cheap, juniper essence flavoured local spirits and pegged at 12,000 cases while in 2022, the figure stood at 3,20,000 cases – this several fold growth was driven almost entirely by new age domestic gins. “When we launched Greater Than, there was certainly a trend across the world that seeped into India as well. Along with the latent demand, however, there was no guarantee that our brand and the segment would take off. There wasn’t a single domestic spirits segment that had niche production – all production was at a mass scale. I was surprised that no legacy company had launched a gin up to that point. The key was to create something authentic and indigenous, using locally sourced botanicals alongside juniper and build witnessed exponential growth, drawing in a flurry of new brands. Goa became the de facto production a narrative around it that consumers connected with,” Anand explains. base for nearly every gin being produced. Ironically, the pandemic was a shot in the arm for the nascent gin market, leading to the launch of more than 30 gins post 2021, in a market that had no authentic domestic gin till 2017. Hotels and restaurants weighed in with their endorsement overhauling cocktail menus to include dedicated G&T lists and in some cases, gin cocktails. The domestic gin segment also played a significant role in cementing the role of mixologists as brand ambassadors, telling the story and driving the sales. GIN BOOM & ITS CHALLENGES However, a hangover is beginning to form, with ominous questions looming. The ‘gin rush’ saw a flood of brands, some of which have quietly faded away. That said, there are new launches around the corner, albeit the pace of these has markedly slowed. Forecasts and expectations of growth have also been Liquid 45

Photo: Nisaki Gin gin Nisaki changes colour Sanchit Agarwal EXPERT PERSPECTIVES The relatively short production time (no ageing) and the availability of turnkey production facilities and expertise aided the mushrooming of many gin brands and also the subsequent demise of some. The first batch of the homegrown white spirit, received with enthusiasm and acclaim, witnessed exponential growth. Mixologist Nitin Tiwari agrees. “At the height of the gin boom, I received several calls daily, asking for unique recipes to create gin. Some of these individuals were hobbyists who had been infusing vodkas and were convinced they could make a good gin on their own. But that is not how the spirits industry works, even in the craft segment. There needs to be a sustainable business plan and a better understanding of the consumer.” This point is echoed by Karina Aggarwal of Gigglewater Beverage Concepts who helped launch Terai Gin. Karina emphasises the importance of a comprehensive roadmap, starting with a narrative behind the gin which resonates with Indian tipplers who want to know the story as much as appreciate its quality. Marketing, distribution and a long term vision is essential, which Karina says, some brands simply didn’t think through. She also points to a certain fatigue in the market. “One Karina Aggarwal 46 Liquid of the compelling factors about gin is the potential to

gin pricing (in some cases higher that imported gins).” Anand however cautions that a purely premium focus for the domestic gin segment is not sustainable. Sanchit believes that the trickle down effect over time will ensure that more Indian gins will be accessible across high and mid segments in the long term. He revealed that Indians on an average, spend at least one per cent of their disposable income on alcohol, and 13 million people of drinking age are added to the market annually. An international parallel that bodes well for the segment shows that while the first craft gin was launched in the UK in 2007, eleven years later there were over 750 brands and a market worth US$ 3 billion. Anand Virmani Whirlwind growth and the recent wobble of a shakeout create riveting cocktails which is mostly in restaurants aside, there’s little doubt that the Indian appetite for and not at home. A dip in home consumption could gin has extended beyond the ‘fad’ phase and the affect the market,” Karina adds. pioneering distillers have created a captive audience FUTURE PROSPECTS to absorb the aromatic white spirit. The jury remains While the initial rush to market trend, that drove so out on the long term future of the modern Indian gin many young entrepreneurs into the gin business market. The passage of time and copious gin cocktails and then out of it, has cooled down, the stream of sit in between now and Indian gin’s eventual fate. L new entrants has not ebbed, neither has the faith in the ‘ginessance’ as Sanchit Agarwal, co-founder of Bhisham Mansukhani Nisaki puts it. This recently launched gin is the first that changes colour, depending on what the spirit is mixed with. “The objective is to associate colour with one’s identity. This makes Nisaki distinct. The Indian gin market has become a bit crowded, making it daunting to understand and discover gin, especially for those who are unfamiliar with the spirit,” Sanchit stresses. The three founding partners went through 45 iterations of the gin before finalising the expression. Nisaki targets the premium end of the market, using rice spirit and Macedonian juniper. Premium positioning pervades nearly all of the new age Indian gin distilleries which Anand points out is not entirely a bad thing. “Indian gins have earned recognition both at home and abroad for their high quality and the cost of ingredients justify premium Nitin Tiwari Liquid 47

sustainability Sustainable Spirits A New Revolution I n India, the demand for ethically produced products is driving significant strides in the spirits market. As consumers become more conscious of environmental and social issues, brands are responding by adopting greener practices and communicating their Although the agave industry is nascent in India, its brands are embracing sustainability as an ethos. sustainability efforts. This shift is not only shaping the future of the industry but also accelerating the THE GLOBAL CONTEXT adoption of responsible production methods. Globally, the spirits industry is striving for carbon Practices such as recycling grains, reducing waste, neutrality. Innovations include plant-based materials adding value to by-products, reusing biomass and using renewable energy are being adopted. On this path to embracing sustainable practices, challenges are being faced. Local sourcing is an advantage, but replacing single-use plastics, water recovery systems, and biofuels use. Distilleries are growing their own botanicals and refurbishing oak casks to reduce their carbon footprint. manufacturing processes need further automation, The tequila industry in Mexico, for example, focusses and the conversation on fair wages needs more on fair wages and good working conditions for farmers. momentum. Organic practices are being encouraged. The agave 48 Liquid

sustainability Photo: Desmondji waste is being used for compost, biomass, and even to produce eco-friendly products like mats. INDIAN BRANDS Let’s look at some brands which have embraced this spirit of sustainability. DesmondJi was the first to realise that the Agave americana plants growing on the borders of field and railway tracks could be transformed into premium spirits. In the sun-drenched Deccan Plateau, Agave India founded by Desmond Nazreth, is dedicated to crafting exceptional beverages while minimising their environmental footprint. At their state-of-the-art distillery, the region’s only facility Photo: Pistola specialising in agave, all electrical devices, including Lit furnace heavy machinery, are powered by solar energy harnessed from rooftop panels. Their commitment to sustainability extends beyond energy use. The fibrous waste from juicing agave plants fuels their boilers, and an advanced effluent treatment facility purifies and repurposes wastewater for ferti-irrigation. The remains of the legendary mahua flower, after distillation, are composted to enrich the soil of their verdant 44-acre facility. In addition, social responsibility initiatives empower local farmers and tribal communities, enhancing their livelihoods and creating value throughout the supply chain. All to demonstrate that quality and responsibility can go hand-in-hand. Maya Pistola has an innovative multi-dimensional approach to agave spirits. The facility is zero-waste, where waste agave fibres fuel the distillery operations. All packaging materials is sourced locally, celebrating the spirit’s Indian origins while minimising carbon footprint. The raw material is sourced from within a 200 km Agave plantation radius of the distillery, supporting local communities Liquid 49

sustainability Established in 1977, their distillery is the first in Asia to achieve the Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) Core Certification and Platinum Accreditation. Utilizing locally sourced ingredients, the distillery features hydro-panels for water extraction and a solar rooftop system powering ~ 55% of its operations, showcasing the commitment to sustainability. Geist Brewing Co., South India’s first production brewery in Bangalore, operates a zero-liquid discharge brewery, investing in advanced technologies like a biological effluent treatment plant with Upflow Anaerobic Sludge Blanket (UASB) technology and a disc tube reverse osmosis (RO) system to treat wastewater. Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) and Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) is reduced. And the water is recycled for various uses, including utilities and gardening. Geist also collaborates with initiatives like Saving Grains to upcycle spent grains into flour for baking and provides spent grain to small livestock farmers. Local producers are dedicated to crafting exceptional beverages while minimising their environmental footprint. and lowering transportation emissions. Founder Rakshay Dhariwal notes, “India is a cost-driven market. It is difficult to justify expenses made in the name of sustainability, as it increases the product price.” Interestingly, although the agave industry is nascent in India, the brands associated with it are advanced in embracing sustainability as an ethos. Godawan, the single malt from Rajasthan, takes a unique approach towards sustainability. The critically endangered Great Indian Bustards find refuge in areas protected by Godawan. For every bottle sold, Godawan contributes to habitat conservation, partnering with local organisations for safe habitats, water provision, and protection from predators and poachers. 50 Liquid Zero liquid discharge brewery

sustainability ACROSS THE GLOBE Highlights of what some spirit companies are doing. Talisker has partnered with ‘Parley for the Oceans’ to restore underwater forests, enhancing marine ecosystems. They have also redesigned their packaging to contain only 0.77 grams of plastic per bottle, increasing recyclability to 99.8%. Don Julio earned the Environmentally Responsible Agave Certification from the Regulatory Council of Tequila of Mexico, confirming its tequila production is deforestation-free, promoting sustainable agriculture. Ketel One’s ‘Garnished with Good’ initiative encourages bartenders to adopt sustainable practices and recognises exceptional contributions with the ‘Ketel One Most Sustainable Bar of the Year’ award at the 50 Best Bars awards. Baileys, in collaboration with Glanbia Ireland, launched Ireland’s first Sustainable Farming Academy to teach sustainable farming practices. They also introduced paper bottles, piloted at the Time Out Festival in Barcelona, Spain. energy was honoured with the 2020 Green Awards Flor de Caña, a carbon-neutral and Fair Trade ‘Sustainability Award’. Their distillery in Nicaragua certified premium rum, distilled with 100% renewable operates with a zero-waste philosophy. To truly embrace sustainability, the industry must look beyond zero-waste production and consider the entire lifecycle of their products. This includes Photo: Desmondji a look at new marketing practices, waste reduction beyond the distillery, and meaningful corporate social responsibility initiatives. This also calls for stronger regulations and genuine commitment to sustainability, emphasising that true progress requires collective effort. “What is missing is the emotional connection of individuals to follow sustainable practices. If each of us puts our minds to it, we can live in a better environment. If you want miracles in real life, they do not happen overnight!” says Hemali Bendre, Brand Developer at Diageo. The distillers must go beyond slogans; sustainability should be a way of life. L Agave waste being dried Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food and beverage expert, restaurateur & writer (Nonchalant Gourmand) who strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life. Liquid 51

beer Smoked Beer B Schlenkerla rands rule, and, as the saying goes, ‘the juice flows’. In question is just good, old-fashioned beer. The Germans call it ‘Rauchbier’ – Bamberg’s very own specialty, and one of this German town’s many claims to fame. Smoked beer has been around diners converge to savour traditional offerings. Ruling supreme, is the ‘smoked beer’. “Even if the brew tastes somewhat strange at the first sip, don’t stop, because soon you’ll realise that your thirst will not decrease, and your pleasure will for some four hundred years and is enjoyed by beer increase,” so proclaim the experts, and very few lovers with a ‘refined taste’. disagree. Thanks to its somewhat fermented flavour, There are several varieties but the one that instantly springs to mind is Schlenkerla – the most visited, most original, and most savoury Smoked Beer Fountain in Bamberg. Nestled in the shadow of the mighty cathedral in the Old Town, it is a half-timbered house in which the geraniums glow in the summer, and eager 52 Liquid Bamberg is often referred to as the ‘City of Beer’, with brewing activity here first mentioned in 1122.

beer it’s an acquired taste which one gets used to rather quickly. What does Schlenkerla mean? Its roots lie within the vernacular ‘Schlenkern’, an old German expression for ‘walking with a drunken lurch’. Allegedly a former brewer had a funny way of walking owing to an accident (or was it the beer?), and so the brewery he established in 1678 was called Schlenkerla. Today, the sixth generation of brewers tap the beer, and the name covers the smoked beer, the tavern and the brewery. It is a ‘one-off’, an original amongst beers, even amongst the large collection of Bavarian beers. It is a dark, aromatic, bottom-fermented beer with 13.5% original extract, equivalent to a ‘middle of the road’ alcohol content of 4.8%. No doubt there’s stronger mixing it with high-class hops in the brew, it matures in a cold cellar deep down in the Bamberg Hills, and finally becomes a mellow, tasty beer, best drunk beer going about, but it would be folly to underestimate directly. this, as old-timers point out – it can make you ‘dangle’ Every drink has connoisseurs, though it took a while quite a bit. for them to rise to this beer type in large numbers. There’s quite an elaborate manufacturing process It’s drunk slowly, steadily and with relish, knowing that involved. Getting the smoky flavour is no easy feat, the second ‘Seidla’ (half-litre) tastes better than the as any brewer or maltster worth his salt, will proclaim. first, and the third even better. Not surprisingly, this The process involves exposing the malt to the harsh, leads to rather copious bouts of drinking. They drink aromatic smoke of burning beachwood logs. After during the ‘morning pint’ and the afternoon break; in Liquid 53

beer traditions of brewers, maltsters and coopers. It features Schlenkerla smoked beer is a ‘one-off’, an original amongst beers. historical equipment from the area’s breweries, keg manufacturers, and malt factories and shows the entire process of brewing, from the initial production of malt to the final beer product. the evenings; alone; and especially with company, as the beer makes one talkative and exuberant. Attaining a social outlook, the beer connects locals with strangers, which works out just fine as it is common in Franconia to share your table with others. Smoked beer couldn’t have had a better home. Bamberg is often referred to as the ‘City of Beer’, with brewing activity here first mentioned in 1122. So loved is beer here, that they even have a museum. A s a lasting tribute, some master-brewers founded the Franconian Brewing Museum in 1979, which tells the story of the 54 Liquid There is variety for imbibing the famous drink. One can drink it in the ‘Altes Lokal’ at white, scrubbed wooden tables, or underneath an old ceiling even darker than the beer. One can also drink it in the ‘Klause’, a former monastery built in 1310, or in the inner court next to a 500-litre wooden keg. Talk about savouring the good things in life. All this is the legend called Schlenkerla. L Inder Raj Ahluwalia is an award-winning travel journalist and author. Besides extensive feature writing for magazines and newspapers, he has also authored five books.

Planter’s Punch P Photo: Shutterstock cocktail A Journey Across Oceans lanter’s Punch is an iconic Caribbean cocktail that holds a special place among rum enthusiasts. Its story is intertwined with sugar plantations in Jamaica, where British colonial planters created this concoction using the abundant local rum, citrus, spices, sugar, and other ingredients emphasising the balance of sour lime, sweet syrup, rum and water. The name itself September 1878 in Fun – a magazine published from London. A wine glass with lemon juice fill, of sugar the same glass, fill twice. A wine glass with lemon juice fill, of sugar the same glass, fill twice. pays homage to the plantation owners, and in less Then rub them together until measure, to the workers, who enjoyed this refreshing the mixture looks smooth, soft, and nice. drink amid the tropical heat. Of rum then three wine glasses add, A Rhymed Recipe Its recipe gained fame through a catchy rhyme, and four of cold water please take. A drink then you’ll have that’s not bad. which was not uncommon around the 18th and early A few decades later, shortened versions began 19th centuries. The first printed recipe appeared in appearing in American newspapers. In 1903, the 56 Liquid

cocktail Photo: DesignedbyMandD An Expanding Horizon As global travel increased in the 20th century, tourists encountered and enjoyed Planter’s Punch in the Caribbean and brought its recipe home, making it a staple in their own cocktail culture. Some believe that Planter’s Punch was created at the Planters Inn in Charleston, South Carolina. Nothing is further than the truth – it’s a clever minting of an urban legend. With its close and old connection with Barbados, Planter’s Punch became popular in Charleston – and a few other places in the south – perhaps a reflection of the historical ties and the proud cultural connection of the city with the Caribbean that were facilitated by the trade routes to the tropical ports. It was adopted into Charleston’s hospitality traditions and drinking culture, and became synonymous with Kansas City Star condensed the rhymed recipe to the following short and sweet lines: One of sour One of sweet Two of strong And one of weak. leisurely gatherings, embodying a lifestyle steeped in tradition yet open to new influences. The Indian Connection Planter’s Punch was introduced to India by the British. In India, the generic concoction of punch, seems steeped in history. Punch is a time-honoured tradition that can possibly connect the modern consumer But the one recipe that became popular world-wide, with imbibers across history from Colonial India, was carried by the New York Times in 1908. It ran thus: Dickensian London, and the Antebellum South. This recipe I give to thee, Dear brother in the heat. Take two of sour (lime let it be) To one and a half of sweet, Of Old Jamaica pour three strong, And add four parts of weak. This recipe laid out a formula: Lime juice for sour, sugar syrup for sweet, Jamaican rum for strong, and water (or ice) for weak. The water, presumably, was added because the rum back in those days, came in at a smoking hot scorch-your-moustache-off proof. Today, in a globalised food and drink scene, Planter’s Punch holds promise in the evolving beverage landscape. Liquid 57

Photo: Achim Schleuning cocktail Sceptics may find this connection a little far-fetched, even apocryphal, yet it does suggest a link that is not entirely illogical or lacking in possibility. A Future of Rich Possibilities While its origins may be debated, the broader context of colonial trade routes and cultural exchanges explains its presence. The British Empire played a significant role in disseminating drinks that they believed were valuable to their folks in the colonies. Today, with a globalised food and drink scene, Planter’s Punch holds promise in India’s evolving beverage landscape. The synergy between Planter’s Punch and India’s own sugarcane-based beverages and rum highlights a potential for exploration and innovation which would resonate with the Indian palate, offering a bridge between tradition and experimentation. This presents an exciting opportunity for mixologists to delve into uncharted territories, tapping into the cultural affinity and evolving tastes of a diverse audience. Planter’s Punch is a symbol of historical connections Different types of punch were made with rum and and global exchange. Its journey from the Caribbean some other spirits to be enjoyed by drinkers across to Charleston to India mirrors the interconnectedness those different places across different time periods. of our world, inviting us to celebrate diversity while But punch in India is arguably far more ancient. Dave embracing new flavours and possibilities. L Wondrich, the authority on beverages, and particularly Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as Secretary to Government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog. on punch, mentions in his book ‘Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl’, “nobody can invented” but then goes on to suggest India as a likely THE CLASSIC PLANTER’S PUNCH RECIPE Ingredients: answer for the question of where. Punch emerged 2 parts Banks 7 Golden Age Rum there as a misspelling of panch – the Hindi word for 3/4 parts pineapple juice five and a reference to the number of ingredients used. 3/4 parts cranberry syrup (equal parts fresh cranberry juice and simple syrup) say precisely when, where or by whom punch was In terms of when it was invented, Wondrich mentions a letter written in 1632 by an Englishman stationed 1/2 parts orange juice in India as the first reference to the libation known as 1/2 parts lime juice punch. A few years later, a German in the port city 1 dash of Angostura Bitters of Surat explained the ingredients, “punch is a kind Mint sprig of drink consisting of aqua vitae, rose-water, juice of Cranberries citrons and sugar.” This along with the etymological Preparation: Shake with ice and strain into a terracotta cup filled with pebble ice. Garnish with a mint sprig and three cranberries. connection, strengthens the case for India’s role in the birth of the punch. 58 Liquid

bar Reka:Bar An Immersive Experience M y mood was just like the weather in Kuala Lumpur that day – grey and dismal from battling an incessant cold the entire week; but that quickly dissipated the moment I crossed the threshold into Reka:Bar. design, including the addition of Braille to make the concept more inclusive. The name is derived from the amalgamation of the words Reka: creation in Malay and Eureka: the joy of discovery in Greek. The concept of the bar is to Nestled in a sleepy zone of Bukit Damansara; veiled in provide guests with a spectrum of modern flavour and a quiet stairwell surrounded by iridescent blue light – a sense experiences, taking them on an expedition of black door was my portal into a world sublime and the mind and palate. ethereal. “Reka was conceptualised during the depths of the It took a minute or two to get over the initial awe; the pandemic.” Nick Choo, the very affable and soft- longitudinal expanse of innovation, experimentation spoken co-owner, went on to explain, “during a and elegance. All elements artistically and cleverly period of restricted travel, we wanted to create an merged to create a calming yet futuristic sense of extraordinary experience for guests, where we could 60 Liquid

bar take them on a multifaceted journey of flavours from the moment they stepped into the bar.” And that’s exactly what they did! Reka:Bar has mastered the art, as well as the The concept of the bar is to provide guests with a spectrum of modern flavour and sense experiences. science of mixology with its inventive cocktail list – casting a special spotlight on elevating indigenous ingredients and local produce. The current signature If you think your mind has been put to enough work menu, ‘The Domino Effect’ highlights ideas of in a cocktail bar, it doesn’t stop there. Reka:Bar’s permutation, transformation and evolution. Moving in Spotlight menu is called ‘Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat’, as an anticlockwise direction, every cocktail in this menu described by Samin Nosrat in her seminal book. The is linked to another via a common ingredient, except menu comprises four drinks and four dishes, one per in a completely different preparation. “A key element element, and is designed in a way that you can pick of each concoction then provides the highlighted and choose the different food and drink combinations. garnish for the next cocktail, resulting in a chain reaction of delicious wonder,” Joel Poon, Partner and the Manager passionately explained. One of the core tenets of the bar is also to present sustainability in an enjoyable format to guests. With the Domino Effect and Spotlight menus, the team tries to creatively use every component of each fruit, herb, vegetable or protein. Pistapple Passion I sampled two of these elixirs and one from the signature menu. I’m partial to pistachio so obviously that was my pick. The ‘Salt’ themed Pistapple Passion was made with a pistachio distillate and Calvados, clarified coconut, lime and garnished with a pistachio yogurt spread crisp. It was rather refreshing and delicious, leaving a subtle saltiness on the lips with each sip. The combination of pistachio and Calvados harmoniously balanced the coconut and citrus notes. Its ‘Salt’ food counterpart was a dessert aptly named Olive, made with olive ice cream, olive tille, olive brine foam, olive oil and adzuki beans (yes, that’s a lot of olive!). This dessert was as stellar as the cocktail. Liquid 61

bar Pet Nat with Collar Me Black For the second cocktail, I went a bit rogue: the ‘Acid’ With glasses in hand, Nick led me to ‘The Playground’, drink, Pet Nat, was made with Hendrick’s Gin, Blue the intimate chemistry lab of Reka:Bar where all the Pea flower, pear Grappa, Tio Pepe Sherry, apple- magic unfolds. Xun, the head bartender, gave me a lemon Cordial, and Pandan grape kombucha. The tour. The back wall was dotted with ferments and initial sourness of the drink served as the perfect distillates neatly lined up in bottles and jars, whilst a stimulant, while the kombucha acted as a great palate centrifuge and a glass distillation apparatus amongst cleanser. I paired this drink with the ‘Fat’ dish, Collar Me Black, which was a marinated lamb collar with other things sat waiting for the boys to come out to play. burnt eggplant puree, and roasted potatoes – a win- They explained that the methods of fermentation win. Thank heavens I paid attention to all the rules and distillation occurring on-site do not produce any attributed to menu planning in hotel school. One of the alcohol but are used to extract the purest forms of commandments – acid cuts fat – repeatedly played flavours. The liquids are then added to or infused with in my mind, hence the pairing. The effervescent and various alcohol bases like gin, vodka and tequila. Their tarty notes of Pet Nat perfectly sliced through the methodology was captivating, and all three gentlemen viscosity of the lamb and resulted in a flavour bomb. were knowledgeable and passionate about what they Bubble Trouble was our elegant muse from the Domino Effect menu harbouring two of the twelve ingredients – fig leaf air which was the garnish and Genmaicha tea. This gin-based cocktail made with Bombay Sapphire, Mancino Vermouth, Bianco Ambrato, marjoram and citrus was an ode to simplistic beauty in a glass. 62 Liquid One of the core tenets of the bar is also to present sustainability in an enjoyable format to guests.

bar do, in turn sharing their enthusiasm with interested guests. Nick and Xun offered me two taste tests – a chilli pepper distillate that was spicy on the nose but tasted as sweet as candy, and a Colombian coffee pour-over that tasted like strawberry jam! The wholesome and immersive experience at Reka:Bar is for those who aspire to be more and do more. With every detail thoughtfully exuded, each cocktail presents an entirely new encounter. This team is happy to push gastronomical boundaries and create symphonies where contrasting elements become cohesive companions, traversing the new and unknown. The experience was truly spectacular, filled with many eureka moments in an ultramodern yet classic spaceship cantina. Reka:Bar is not just a destination but a journey. L Bubble Trouble Xenia Jamshyd Lam has a Masters in Gastronomy from the University of Gastronomic Sciences, Pollenzo. Travelling, writing and art are her passions. Liquid 63

Liquid Literature Photos: The Leela Palace New Delhi bar A Novel Concept T he Library Bar at The Leela Palace New Delhi has been a Delhi institution for more than a decade, The innovative Literary Mixology Program, spearheaded by Siya Negi, Head of Bar Program, and gracing the city with classic cocktails and premium Atul Tiwari, EAM Food & Beverage, is a culmination drinks since 2011. This popular bar has evolved into a of the entire team’s creativity. Siya says, “It was a more inclusive space that caters to a wider audience journey that spanned over six months, involving in the past few years. While the wine list (which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for eight consecutive years) remains a testament to their dedication to quality, their newest program takes countless recipe trials and refinements. We began with collecting books and immersing ourselves in their stories, which inspired us to explore specific directions for our cocktails.” Atul adds, “Looking back, it’s clear that it was a collaborative effort, with the entire team things a step further – offering a literary twist on the contributing a multitude of ideas, book names, and cocktail experience. recipes.” 66 Liquid

bar The Library Bar at The Leela Palace New Delhi has been a Delhi institution for more than a decade. Instead of a traditional menu listing the offer, the eight unique cocktails, each inspired by a classic novel, are presented on white bookmarks adorned with charming illustrations. Scattered across the tables, you’ll find the very books that inspired these creations. To place an order, simply slip your choice through the slot nestled within a book, much like the quiet thrill of checking out a novel at the library. You are ready to embark on this literary adventure. SONG OF SOLOMON A tribute to Toni Morrison’s poignant tale. Just as the protagonist Milkman Dead navigates life’s challenges with limited resources, Siya crafts a complex and characterful drink using unexpected ingredients, which may have otherwise gone to waste. A centrifuged concoction representing a clear conscience, it features savoury wine, citrus vodka and intriguing hints of herbs and lavender. This sustainable creation embodies the novel’s themes and promises a refreshingly smooth experience. Around the World in 80 Days AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 DAYS This vibrant cocktail is an explosion of flavours featuring a medley of international ingredients: Peruvian pisco, Venezuelan cacao, Italian Campari, Indian gin, Japanese yuzu, Egyptian chamomile, and strawberries from New Zealand. Each sip is a subtly sweet and fruity one, capped by a delightful foamy finish that evokes a fairytale-like quality. As Atul describes it, “The cocktail is a true celebration of international flavours and adventurous spirit, perfectly embodying the Jules Verne novel that inspired it.” CARIBBEAN MYSTERY A delightful concoction that captures the essence of protagonist Miss Marple’s tropical vacation, offering a harmonious blend of bananas, cinnamon, citrus, and bubbles. PABLO PICASSO A tequila-based masterpiece featuring a touch of Atul Tiwari spiced brine, grapefruit, and a small chunk of charred Liquid 67

bar This new menu is a resounding success, leaving us eager to explore the remaining literary concoctions. The bites are a delightful selection from the Leela Palace’s renowned restaurants – The Qube, Jamavar, Le Cirque, and Megu – ensuring a perfectly paired culinary experience. Gone are the days when the Library Bar catered solely to hotel guests. Today, it welcomes a diverse crowd, including Delhi’s younger generation. Weekends offer a vibrant ‘outdoor’ seating option, allowing patrons to soak in the beautiful property. Whether it’s a romantic date night, a fun evening with friends, or a power business meeting, the Library Bar offers a versatile and unforgettable experience. But the story doesn’t end here. The team hints at a new program on the horizon, ‘Secrets of the Library,’ promising to unveil even more unique and exciting concoctions. L Navni Kumar Caribbean Mystery pineapple. The proper way to enjoy this? Take a bite of the fruit followed by a sip of the drink. RAYMOND CHANDLER Takes a page from the renowned author, the only one that is named after a writer and not a book. This potent and much stronger libation pays homage to the author’s two-week stint in jail where he lived on bourbon. This interpretation comprises a mix of coconut bourbon, Campari, Amaro Montenegro, and a touch of coffee bitters. The perfect indulgence after a long, hard day. GRAVITY’S RAINBOW Tradition is seamlessly blended with modern mixology techniques in drinks. This clarified cocktail boasts a complex mix of blended malt, pineapple, lactose, coconut, caramel, and citrus, topped with a luxurious layer of vanilla Campari foam, resting on top much like a cloud. This one will appeal to those who enjoy the taste of milkshakes. 68 Liquid Raymond Chandler

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