Volume 3 Issue 1 Q1 2024 R 90 Tonic A New Take Cocktail Culture Ruling Trends Nurturing Vines Evolution in India

contents what’s inside India Nurturing Vines Turkey Delight in Delhi 4 Liquid 10 Champagne 20 Wine Champagne is Optimistic Rosé Wines 14 France 22 News Bordeaux Unveiled 16 24

contents Tradition Lassi Legacy Mixer Decoding Syrups Cognac Cognac Chronicles 36 Innovation 44 Cocktail 56 Barrel Bubble Tea Surge Cocktail Culture Nature’s Art of Ageing 38 Mixer 48 Beer 60 Spirit Tonic On Tap Limited Editions 40 52 64 Liquid 5

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publisher’s Volume 3 Issue 1 Q1 2024 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Consulting Editor: Navni Kumar Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Contributing Editor: Bhisham Mansukhani Design: Sandeep Kaul Photographs: Hunesh Ajmani Cover: Shutterstock Digital: Udit Singhal Contributors: Arjun Sachar Brita Dasgupta Nandita Kaushik Nikhil Merchant Radhika Tandon Ranak Singh Mann Saket Joshi Xenia Jamshyd Lam Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. note W e are gearing up for the greatest festival of the world’s largest democracy – the Indian General Elections – that will play out till early June. Around a billion eligible citizens will exercise their right to vote, as enshrined in the Indian constitution. Post-Independence India, the world’s most populous country with the most dynamic growth stories, has emerged as a crucial market with tremendous untapped potential. This is mirrored by the beverage industry, where the seemingly unending demand (especially from the next tier cities) is enticing multi-national corporations to expand their footprint. They are establishing production facilities with a long-term view to counter the crippling import tariffs, integrate into the local ecosystem and gain favour with the authorities. At the same time, the quality of Indian produce is surpassing international benchmarks. ‘Made in India’ products are continuing to dominate international shelves, win awards and wow the global consumer. India has embraced new-age job opportunities. Lucrative careers in the somewhat looked-down-upon alcoholic beverage industry are now emerging, and glass ceilings have been knocked out. At Group Ritu, we are proud to have facilitated this. We have been supporting ‘sommellerie’ since the turn of the millennium. When we brought in the first Sommelier in 2001, it was an unknown job classification in India. Last month, 80 professional sommeliers competed for the BEST of India title! A bright future lies ahead. Rise from your armchair and acquire the indelible mark on your index finger to earn the right to celebrate the choice that you make for the nation. Liquid 7

india Nurturing Vines Evolution in India T he most common oversight regarding wine is that it is essentially an agricultural product. Wine is The response to the visible impact on nature is not born of the land that roots the vines that bear the fruit, nature of the true viticulturists and winemakers. They vintage upon vintage, with inconsistent brilliance. view winemaking as inherently aligned with nature’s It places an existential reliance on nature, whose resources have been harnessed without consent which has drawn a mixed response from the a prudent business decision but rather the innate creative tendency to craft edible marvels rather than engaging in an exploitative enterprise, indifferent to the very source of its recurrent wealth. custodians – sharper in recent decades manifesting The vineyard serves as the foundation and primary in climate change. source for bearing the fruit that makes the wine. 10 Liquid

india Nurturing the vineyard is a priority for any wine company, with the viticulturist taking the lead. Other alternatives such as neem oil and phosphoric acid that were effective against mildew and had no impact on the vines or the soil were brought into play. Farmyard manure played a crucial role in rejuvenating the soil with essential nutrients, while vermicompost enriched by earthworms, was a natural soil revitaliser. Shaw dealt with weeds that crowd under the vines, potentially competing for the soil’s nutrients, by planting legumes and with green manure. He Ajoy Shaw Nurturing the vineyard is a priority for any wine company, with the viticulturist taking the lead. employed pollinating insects and ladybirds to deal with pests. It is important for the canopy to be kept aerated. Consultant winemaker Ajoy Shaw, who oversaw Chandon India takes an equally natural approach several vintages at Sula Vineyards, believes it is all towards viticulture, growing grass in between the vines about consciously caring for the plant and the soil and allowing cattle to feed on it, indirectly warding off it is rooted in, and that growing grapes must be in pests and fertilising the soil. Estate Director Rajesh as natural a way possible so that nature responds Dixit says that the grass also prevents soil erosion positively. “Vineyard maintenance has come a long during the summers when hot winds sweep across way. The early years of the Indian wine industry witnessed the use of chemical pesticides, but a better understanding has led to a change in approach and a concern for the soil which has led to the sparing use and spot application of even relatively organic alternatives like copper and sulphur.” Shaw highlights two main threats to the vines – downy mildew and powdery mildew for which copper and sulphur are respectively sprayed, particularly during the monsoon season when the vines are most vulnerable to disease and rot. In the time leading to harvest, the vines must retain their leaves otherwise pruning must be done earlier which can in turn affect the harvest and by extension, the wine. Conversely, for every day of delay in pruning, harvest will be delayed by five days which can have serious implications for the overall vintage. Hence, a measured spray on the leaves is necessary. Liquid 11

india the region. Chandon focusses on minimum irrigation to let the soil make the vines work hard to extract the moisture and nutrients. The viticulture team enriches the soil with cow dung and mushroom compost, avoiding the use of chemicals almost altogether. No herbicides are used to kill off the weeds – manual labour is deployed to the delicately root them out. while also retaining the soil’s moisture and nutrients during the long dry summer. The mulch protects the soil from erosion and compacting during the monsoons. Manjunath shared more about the extensive water harvesting programme, “vines need an average of 710 mm of water annually to survive and much of this can’t Grover Vineyards has adopted practices along the lines of permaculture with the objective of improving the long-term health of the soil and biodiversity. Vice President, Manjunath VG, explained, “we sow cover crops like legumes and cereals in every alternate vine row. The different rooting habits enliven the topsoil and attract beneficial insects which control vine pests, namely honeybees. This has allowed us to almost do away with herbicides.” Furthermore, a quarter of the manure that is used in the vineyard is decomposed grape waste – from pruning – that improves the soil’s texture. Inter-vine mulching naturally manages weeds The early years of the Indian wine industry witnessed the use of chemical pesticides, but a better understanding has led to a change in approach. Manjunath VG 12 Liquid

india be met by annual rainfall hence water harvesting is critical. We replenish our natural reservoirs and create and maintain underground borewells and open wells to retain the precious liquid resource to ensure yearround availability.” Notably, French-made drones are employed to monitor the health of its vines as well as focus on disease outbreak and enhance the usage of resources. Most recently, UV-B and UV-C radiation is being used as a potential replacement for chemicals to control disease and pests. Over at Fratelli Vineyards, in the microclimate of Akluj, where the estate is quite literally on its own, winemaker Giovanni Masi believes in and executes a noninterventionist policy. “One of the biggest advantages is the availability of manual workers who do the important job of tending to the vines. We don’t use chemicals or tractors, so as not to disturb the delicate ecology. The typical Indian vineyard has a lifespan of 30 years. But we can extend this by introducing good measures and replenishing the soil nutrients.” According to Masi, there are two ways of farming. “You can either spray every five days or with a deep understanding, spray very specifically. At Fratelli, we take a hybrid approach to viticulture which sits between conventional and organic farming. This powers us with the flexibility to respond to the climate and the vines as per the given situation. While our approach is organic for most of the year, the rainy season brings the multiple challenges of pests and downy mildew which necessitates spraying.” Their most recent initiative was to bring purpose-built Spanish machines to de-weed the soil which also helps de-compact the soil into tiny pieces, thereby preventing evaporation of vital groundwater and nutrients. Indian vineyards have undoubtedly come a long way from an era of existential uncertainty and a chemically driven approach to a modern age when the environment and very foundation of winemaking – the soil – takes precedence as the element to be nurtured in order to coax out sublime vintages of which surely, there are many more to come. L Giovanni Masi Bhisham Mansukhani Liquid 13

champagne D avid Chatillon and Maxime Toubart, Co-Presidents of the Comité Champagne CIVC, outlined the AN INNOVATIVE INDUSTRY During his visit to the fair, where the Champagne industry strategic decisions collectively taken by the region’s had converged for very impressive and elaborate vignerons and maisons to support Champagne’s showcase, the French Minister of Agriculture Marc ongoing social Fesneau, hailed Champagne as the ‘the powerhouse responsibility at a press conference during Wine Paris of wines and spirits’. He emphasised, “Champagne is a – Vinexpo in February. The CIVC is the trade association land of innovation and stands out for its ability to reinvent that represents the interests of all stakeholders for the itself.” commitment to excellence and wines of the Champagne region. This long-standing tradition of innovation enables A COMMITTED AND RESPONSIBLE INDUSTRY Champagne to adapt to new challenges and the evolving Toubart informed that a better framework to deal with climate. Champagne combats new diseases and vine some fundamental issues will be progressed in time for decline to ensure long-term survival of the vineyard and this year’s harvest to ensure better conditions for the preserve the distinctiveness and excellence of its wine. 100,000 grape-pickers mobilised during this event. A contractual agreement that governs the grape market in Champagne has been renewed for another five years to secure market supply and consolidate the sharing of Champagne is a land of innovation and stands out for its ability to reinvent itself. value between the growers and the houses. Champagne is Optimistic Priorities 2024 14 Liquid

Charles Goemaere Photo: Benjamin Vautrelle Collection CIVC Photo: Comité Champagne Photo: Benjamin Vautrelle Collection CIVC champagne David Chatillon Maxime Toubart A new-generation ‘insect-proof’ greenhouse for the vines, QANOPÉE, will be inaugurated in the summer of 2024. for any foreign appellation in China, including any writing The new Maison de la Champagne in Epernay will be an expanded research, development and innovation centre which will reinforce the industry’s initiatives for quality and sustainable development, with state-of-theart equipment. Champagne embodies luxury, prestige and elegance The reserve levels are being raised to 10,000 kg/ha to guarantee a stable marketable yield each year and further improve the resilience of the sector. A renewal in consumption trends is evident. Consumers, A STRONG APPELLATION For more than 120 years, the Comite Champagne CIVC has been protecting the appellation and ensuring its worldwide influence. The demand for Champagne Rosé has increased five- The demand for Champagne in the Nordic and Scandinavian countries has risen by 67% over the last ten years and a new Bureau du Champagne will open in Stockholm in April. Exports now account for almost 60% of total sales (171 The Comité Champagne CIVC is committed to its mandate of training and informing and will present ‘Champagne Education’, a comprehensive, certified programme designed for wine professionals, through partnerships with renowned schools worldwide. markets, that find Champagne desirable and exemplary The battle for recognition and protection of the Champagne appellation continues. Recently, Champagne was granted ‘notorious name’ status, a first Champagne remains an exceptional wine,” summarised in Chinese characters. THE BENCHMARK (IPSOS 2023). The consumer associates it with unique memories and emotional connections, choosing it to mark important moments and special occasions. THE CONSUMER AND MARKETS confined to ‘non vintage brut’ for a long time, are looking for greater diversity in blends and dosage. fold in 20 years (20 million bottles exported in 2022). Low dosage variants have increased almost 70-fold in the same period (6.4 million bottles exported in 2022). million bottles exported in 2023) – up from 45% ten years ago. A very insightful statistic was presented – 80% of Champagne is still sold in eight countries – and many but unavailable, are waiting to be conquered. “The continued investments and commitments are an absolute priority to give Champagne the means to ensure long-term market balance, as well as ensure that Chatillon. L Ritu Singhal Liquid 15

Photo: iStock france Bordeaux Unveiled Wines, Union & Terroir M arriages, from rich to poor, from king to commoner, have always played an important role in society. No region has profited from marriage more than Bordeaux in western France, especially when Eleanor of Aquitaine wedded British King Henry Plantagenet and they gave their patronage to the wines regal chateaus lining the banks of the rivers Garonne and Dordogne, offering glimpses of its glorious past. The Bordeaux wine region, with its grand history and prestigious classifications, today has 65 sub regions, 5,660 producers, and produces around 700 in this region. This union elevated the region’s wines to increased recognition on both sides of the English Channel, gaining popularity and wealth. One can still see the vestiges of these riches when strolling around Bordeaux’s Quai, adorned with old stone houses that housed the negociants (wine merchants), and in the 16 Liquid The Bordeaux region has been differentiated as ‘Left Bank’, ‘Right Bank’ and ‘Entre deux Mers’.

france million bottles of wine every year. This is the largest and most diverse region in France producing whites, rosé, reds, sweet and sparkling wine. Most wine from Bordeaux falls under the appellation of Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur. These are very accessible compared with historical appellations like the grand crus classified in 1855 – Saint Emilion, Sauternes, Graves or Pomerol. The ‘negociants’ are still a very important sales channel for Bordeaux wines. In the early 20th century, some producers formed cooperatives. There are 33 ‘cave cooperatives’ bringing together 2,500 producers, contributing to 25% of Bordeaux wine. These structures initially aided growers with technical and economic support and now serve as market regulators, thanks to their capacity for storing and producing large volumes. Traditionally, the Bordeaux region has been differentiated as ‘Left Bank’ – south of the river Garonne, ‘Right Bank’ – north of the river Dordogne and ‘Entre deux Mers’ (in between two seas) – in varietals planted. The wines in each sub-region The topography, soil structure, growing degree days express in their own way the dominant and supporting (a measure to calculate accumulated sunshine) vary varietals to create a diverse style. Right Bank features across these regions, influencing the choice of grape Merlot dominated blends with Cabernet Franc, and Photo: Musée des Beaux-Arts de Bordeaux between these two rivers. View of part of the port and the quays of Bordeaux Liquid 17

Photo: dubos.com france Négociants sometimes Malbec and Petit Verdot, while Left Bank focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Merlot playing supporting roles. Left Bank and Entre deux Mers also produce white wines, usually from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Some make comparisons between Right Bank and Left Bank – these are not really needed. Instead, an understanding of the sub-regions is more relevant. Observing the regions offers clues about the dominance of specific varieties. Left Bank’s welldrained gravely soil suit hardy Cabernet Sauvignon while Right Bank’s clayish limestone soil enhances the brightness of Merlot. The complexity extends to Saint Emilion, known for limestone soils, but featuring chateaus on gravely, iron-rich subsoils. Similarly, there are strips of sandy and clayish soils in the Left Bank The wines in each sub-region express in their own way the dominant and supporting varietals. 18 Liquid

france area in between gravel terrains of the east and west this a ‘poisonous gift’. Some ‘rebels’ are pushing the peninsula, particularly that of Médoc. limits to create something new. This may not be a big Having worked in New Zealand with Marlborough wave of change but it’s an attempt to keep the wines of Sauvignon Blanc, I find the Sauvignon Blanc from this region exciting and something to look forward to. Graves distinctly different. As a winemaker, I am When thinking about French appellations, especially fascinated to observe nature’s influence on stylistic differences, such as fruitier, supple tannins in Right Bank Merlots complemented by the broader, more robust tannins in Left Bank Cabernets. In recent years, the wine producers in Bordeaux have opted for a market driven style that is acclaimed by international critics instead of highlighting the nuances, diversity, and technological innovations that this great wine region offers. This wasn’t aligned with what the new generation of consumers were looking for – they in Bordeaux where I work now, I marvel at the winemakers’ ability to find perfect complementarity between grape varieties and the conditions in the regions, likely through trial and error over generations since the Greco-Roman period. Linearly progressing through nature’s expression, winemaking demands hard labour, patience, and scientific precision before it is bottled and is ready to be judged by the sommelier. Or us. rejected the commercial style that was forced upon So, the next time your friend questions your choice them. of a Bordeaux wine, don’t hesitate to delve into Dwindling demand amidst a series of economic the fascinating narrative that defines Bordeaux’s setbacks forced the Bordelais to rethink their position. winemaking legacy. L As they stared at production surpluses, some vignerons Saket Joshi graduated in Wine Sciences from the University of Auckland and has been working in viticulture and winemaking in USA, New Zealand and France for the last 12 years. took the drastic decision to rip out their vineyards and not pass anything on to the next generation. Some Photo: CIVB Photo: vins-saint-emilion.com could pass on their legacy, but inheritance laws made Left Bank’s gravel Right Bank’s limestone Liquid 19

turkey Turkish Wines Delight in Delhi W ine consultant Tuba Yargıç De Wilde hosted a Turkey ranked as the world’s fifth largest grape grower unique presentation of Turkish Wines in Delhi in 2021. It is estimated that 15% of the grapes are in January. The sit-down tasting at the Art Explore Gallery, with curator Reshma Chordia, engaged diplomats, wine professionals, and enthusiasts dedicated to wine production and the rest to raisins. The event featured a beautifully decorated long table in through an informative ‘did-you-know’ question the central hall, enhancing the impressive art collection series, highlighting the discovery of Vitis vinifera at the gallery. Participants were interactive and shared plantings from the neolithic period in Çayönü near the some interesting experiences and anecdotes. Tigris River in south-east Turkey. Tuba, keen to introduce the diversity and richness of Following several millennia of neglect due to politics, the wines from her homeland to Indian audiences, religion and regulation, the wine industry in Turkey is expressed, “Indians already have Turkey on their now in the phase of reviving its rich heritage. The first bucket lists for tourism. I want to encourage them to commercial production of wine started in the early explore the wines that are made in my country.” 1900s. Today there are more than 180 wineries in Turkey, offering a diverse selection of styles to choose Her crisp yet engaging presentation showcased a from – fresh sparklings, dry whites, heavy reds, representative sample of five wines from different botrytis sweet, rosé, and even ambers. According Turkish wine regions mainly derived from indigenous to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, grapes, emphasising diversity and depth. 20 Liquid

turkey Turkey ranked as the world’s fifth largest grape grower in 2021. Öküzgözü (that resembles a bull’s eye) and Gavdoni from 150 years old vines (Turkey was unaffected by the phylloxera) from a border village in Sirnak in southeast Turkey. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, the wine is very complex, concentrated and maybe closed. Perhaps too young to drink now – many years of further ageing ahead. DOLUCA SAFIR 2021 One of the oldest and largest wineries that was founded in 1926. The third generation built a 14 million HERAKI DELTA V 2020 SULTANIYE Owned by a Turkish-Spanish couple who made their first vintage in 2019. The bright green coloured Sultaniye (Sultana), originating in the Aegean, comes from the Çal-Denizli region with vines that are more than 60 years-old and planted at an altitude of 850m. This complex dry white wine is aged in old oak barrels for nine months and is fruit forward with minerally litres capacity. The semi sweet white wine from the Misket (Musquat) grape from Menderes is charmingly aromatic and offers a balanced sweetness. The Multifarious 5 Art Show Preview and Wine Tasting left a lasting impression on the participants as well as a sense of curiosity to discover more from the Turkish terroirs. L Rajiv Singhal notes. KASTRO TIRELI ELAIA 2022 ROSÉ The indigenous Kalecik Karası grape grown in organic vineyards is blended with Syrah and Mourvèdre. This elegant wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged on lees for six months. A pleasant pinkish colour and very enticing berry fruit. VINKARA RESERVE 2018 This winery in Central Anatolia has an annual capacity of one million litres. The medium-bodied dry red is made from Kalecik Karası – a widely grown versatile grape with blue-black thick-skinned berries that grow in compact conical clusters. Medium bodied wine with red fruit and spicy notes. Tight structure from fermentation for 18 months in French oak. MIDIN BALUTO 2020 A boutique winery with a capacity of 50,000 litres. The wine is a blend of Boğazkere, Raşegurnik, Liquid 21

wine Rosé Wines Trending in India A s I sat at a brunch with friends, sipping some delightful rosé wine, I could not help but think: Not only does the wine uplift the table setting and create a gorgeous picture merely by its striking appearance, but it also tastes amazing! contact, and the juice extracted is colourless because the colour is rendered by pigments present in the grape skin. The Provence region in southern France is the pioneer of rosé wines and paved the way for this delicious Over the next few months, I delved deeper into the wine to make its way to our glasses. Around the rosé wines available in India and discerned the world, winemakers in Italy, Spain, USA, Germany, trend that this style of wine was quietly climbing the and South Africa are also sharing their renders of this popularity charts and creating an unshakeable place style to meet the surge in demand. In India, rosé wines for itself among the wine consumers in India. have been made since the turn of the millennium by Rosé wines are often light and refreshing, which Chateau Indage and then some years later by Sula makes them the perfect choice for the summer (which Vineyards and others. makes it an all-year-round option in India) and are My list – my reward for my exploration – of the Indian usually preferred during daytime. Ideally, rosé wines should be served chilled, allowing the notes to shine. They also owe their popularity to the fact that they can produce is a testament that Indian rosés are carving their own place. easily be paired with a diverse range of foods, as they Sula’s Zinfandel Rosé is a fresh wine with intense tend to enhance the flavours. fruity flavours. Made from Zinfandel grapes, it is The wines can come in many hues of pink, and the intensity of colour is determined by the amount of time medium-sweet and bursting with the flavour of red berries, citrus, and ripe fruits. the grape juice soaks in the grape skins during the Sula’s The Source Rosé is made with Grenache wine-making process. In the ‘pressing’ stage, care grapes. Its Provence pink colour makes for a pretty is taken to delicately crush the grape to avoid skin picture, and it has just the right balance of sweetness 22 Liquid

Photo: Sula Photo: Sula wine and acidity. I loved every minute of this wine – definitely Grover Zampa Shiraz Rosé is award-winning and tops my list. made with Shiraz grapes. This fruity light-bodied wine Fratelli’s MS Rosé is made with Sangiovese grapes. offers intense aromas of cherries, other berries, and It is fresh and fruity with strong aromas of blueberries, sherry. It paired well with stir-fries and mildly spiced strawberries and violets that complement its rose- poultry. and South-east Asian food. Fratelli’s Shiraz Rosé is golden-pink and a comparatively drier rosé made from Shiraz grapes. Aromas of strawberries, oranges, and lemons with a hint of minerality balanced by crisp acidity. A well- from to begin your rosé journey. Here’s to raising a glass to this gorgeous and delicious tipple! L Brita Dasgupta’s love for reading, writing and travel have led her to chronicle her experiences on travel, history, food and beverages for the last two decades. Photo: Fratelli crafted wine that I enjoyed a terrible lot. So there you go, you have many options to choose Photo: Grover Zampa pink colour. The wine is ideal for pairing with Indian Liquid 23

news VIN France in the UK V IN is a trade tasting that showcases the richness and diversity of French wines in the UK – a market where the consumer prioritises high quality and has good taste. Launched by Business France in 2023, the event fosters connections between French producers and UK importers and journalists. applauded the exceptional work of the stakeholders to promote French wine and French Art de Vivre. The show was very well attended by buyers, importers, distributors, sommeliers, and journalists – all keen to explore a representative offer of the wines of France – through the different regions. 45 AOCs from The second edition of VIN was held at the Hyatt Champagne, Loire, Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Regency London – The Churchill in Central London Rhone, Languedoc and Provence were presented. on 1st February, 2024. It was kicked off by the 43 tables were set up in the Chartwell Ballroom for Ambassador of France to the UK, H.E. Hélène Tréheux- the delegation of mainly French producers and some Duchêne. She proudly announced that “France is the importers of French wine. Some pop-up events during leading supplier of wine to the British market in terms the day-long event which included wine walks by Jamie of value, and despite the competition, we intend to Goode to help the visitors discover some special labels remain.” During her walk around the tasting room, she had been thoughtfully planned. 24 Liquid

news Forty five AOCs from Champagne, Loire, Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Languedoc and Provence presented. Pauline Gauthier, Chef de pôle Agrotech for Business France UK & Ireland said, “from famous vineyards to routes less travelled, our winemakers present quality wines at all price points.” She thanked all the British buyers in attendance for their curiosity, dedication, and passion. Her colleague, Pandora Mistry added that there were many business opportunities – some producers were seeking UK representation and some were ready to go on the market. The French Champion Awards were presented by Ambassador Tréheux-Duchêne. Hosted by Libby Brodie, Wine Columnist at City AM, the winners are chosen by a jury of trade professionals for having played a key role in raising the profile of French wine on the UK market. With these awards, Business France was delighted to be able to thank those who help get French wines onto tables throughout the UK. Some wines that caught our attention. Blanc de Noirs NV and Blanc de Blancs 2016 from Champagne Etienne Oudart, a 65-year-old house, that practises sustainable viticulture since 2018. Irresistible 2023 and Empereur 2022 from Domaine de La Croix from the heart of the St Tropez peninsula. AOC Cotes de Provence Cru Classe wines owned by Group Bollore. Le Clos des Sables 2022 and L’Intrépide 2022 from Chateau de Fontenay from Touraine in the Loire Valley. The 350 year old estate has four rooms and three cottages for visitors. Add to your bucket list. H.E. Hélène Tréheux-Duchêne Clos des Menuts Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2018 from the family-owned Maison Riviere from Saint Emilion Bordeaux. L Liquid 25

Styria’s Artisanal Delights S tyria, the second largest federal state of Austria, is guided by the mantra of “New growth. New opportunities. New quality.” Its recipe for success revolves around entrepreneurship, innovation and internationalisation, through research and development. Photo: Adobe Stock news Styria is the most fertile federal state of Austria and produces food of great quality and variety. With a view to strengthen business relations with India, the Internationalisation Centre Styria (ICS) brought a large delegation with 41 participants to Bengaluru, Agra, and New Delhi in March. Mrs. Barbara Eibinger-Miedl, Minister for Economy, high quality of life. Our region is a vibrant economic engine and a hotspot in science, research, and development.” Tourism, Regions, Science & Research emphasised, “Styria, known as the Green Heart of Austria, is Styria is the most fertile federal state of Austria and characterised by its exceptional landscape, safety and produces food of great quality and variety. Amidst 26 Liquid

news maceration in pure grain alcohol for a few weeks and is then distilled once. Suggested to be enjoyed only with water. Very intense. Harmony in juniper and citrus. Persistent length. BARREL AGED DRY GIN Matured in wooden barrels for a year. Juniper is complemented with mandarins and cardamom along with wood and vanilla. Best enjoyed with ginger ale. An overall citrusy-spicy profile. Dominant mandarin peel and vanilla. Subtle hints of juniper. LONDON DRY GIN BERGAMOT PEPPER Infused with Andaliman and Wild-Jungle Peppers along with Bergamot. A the stunning natural beauty and cultural treasures are found traditional delicacies and exquisite wines and spirits. fruity yet peppery expression with a peppery spicy prelude, intense fresh lemon and delicate juniper notes. It culminates in a sweet Herbert Ritter, Vice-President of the Styria Economic Chamber, added, “Our goal is a closer cooperation between Styrian and India” as he guided us through some selected wines and spirits that were presented at a reception hosted by the Austrian Ambassador H.E. Katharina Wieser at her residence. Distillery Kraus, founded by Carmen & Werner Krauss in their garage in 2007, has been offering artisanal spirits that have garnered many awards in international competitions around the world. finish. Suggested to be served with tonic in a 1:5 ratio. Kraus also offered two types of whiskey (with an ‘e’), interpreting the Scottish tradition, with a Styrian touch: PEATED SINGLE MALT WHISKEY Made with barley malt that was smoked during kilning with local Kraus’ gin collection presents the powerful ‘pureness’ of juniper. These include: peat from Koralpe. Three years of ORGANIC LONDON DRY GIN Crafted with the finest botanicals and fresh handpicked ripe lemons, this gin undergoes at cask strength. Very flavourful. maturation, some in new and used American Oak barrels. Bottled Lightly smoked malt is in harmony with wood. Hint of caramel and a balanced long finish. Liquid 27

news SULM VALLEY WHISKEY Made mostly from an ancient corn variety grown specially in “Sulm Valley”. Matured in toasted American White Oak casks. Soft water from Koralpe allows the whiskey to express itself – despite its 48% vol. Sweet with a hint of smoky vanilla and a long finish. management and the preservation of the historic landscape. RIESLING RIED EDELSCHUH 2021 A South Styria DAC from Edelschuh (documented as early as 1322 as one of the best vineyards in Austria). A mineralrich profile. Stone fruit and passion fruit with some honey. Pure texture. Very easy to drink and yet long-lasting. In its wine-growing area of 4,860 hectares, Styria grows grapes for 220,000 to 280,000 hectolitres of wine (about 80 % of which is white wine). Most of the vineyards are family-run and the wineries have a small structure. Two wines from the Wohlmuth Winery, established in 1803 on some of Europe’s steepest vineyards, were also presented. The wines are completely handcrafted; the owner couple Marion and Gerhard J put in up to 1,200 working hours per hectare and focus on elaborate care, careful recultivation and conservation to guide their ‘magic of small steps’ for the next generation and the region. They are members of the Styrian Terroir and Classic Wine Estates (STK) and the Sustainable Austria certification which is committed to sustainable 28 Liquid This is a James Suckling 97 pts wine – “a game-changing dry Riesling dangerously which is refreshing and has enormous ageing potential”. SAUVIGNON BLANC RIED SAUSALER SCHLÖSSL 2021 Another South Styria DAC from Wohlmuth’s highest single vineyard that is open to the Alps. A multi-layered expression of an enchanting bouquet. Juicy tropical fruit – pineapple and orange zest – with smoky spice. Well-integrated structure and very engaging. L

news Chilean Volcanic Wines in Mumbai palate.” Volcanic deposits help the vines withstand high temperatures, retain humidity and offer good drainage. In the first consignment, six wines across entry, mid and premium range have been imported. Three wines are from the grape varietal based Riserva Series featuring a Chardonnay (unoaked), Carmenere and Pinot Noir. There is one barrel aged blend of Grenache, Petit Syrah and Mourvèdre from the estate’s gastronomic Tectonia Series. And one Syrah from The Parinacota Limited Edition, produced in Chile’s extreme north from vines that are more than 60 years old. The selection is topped by Igneo, a blend of Petite Syrah and Petite Verdot, which is barrel aged for 16 months in new and old French oak and then matured in bottle for a year. Flipsydee launched the six wines at a recent event at the JW Marriott Juhu Mumbai. Guiding the tasting, wine writer Suneeta Kanga said, “The wines are a testament to the unique terroir of Chile’s volcanic region, and they should resonate with Indian wine enthusiasts who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship behind each bottle.” Flipsydee founder Shailender Sandha added, “the Mumbai based wines and spirits importer, Flipsydee, has launched a selection of wines from Bodega Volcanes de Chile in major markets in India, including Maharashtra, Goa, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana and Karnataka. Based in the Chilean capital city, Santiago, the winery sources grapes from its own and as well as contracted vineyards mainly in three wine regions – Maipo Valley, Maule Valley and Leyda Valley. Maipo Valley, at the north end of Central Valley, is Chile’s biggest and most significant wine region. Its sloping vineyards sit on soils rich in limestone and clay deposits. Maule Valley is nestled in the south of Central Valley with soils of clay and loam concentrated with calcium and iron deposits. Leyda Valley, part of the southern coastal region of San Antonio, enjoys cool climate and granite subsoils. Chile has over 2,900 volcanoes (both dormant and active) spread across the country and especially in these wine regions. According to Pilar Díaz, Head Winemaker at Bodega Volcanes de Chile, “the volcanic character is an attribute which makes our wines more vibrant and richer with greater complexity in aromas and on the demand for premium Chilean wines has grown substantially in the Indian market which is why we were confident to import the estate’s top end wines as well. The annual production of the Igneo is 2500 bottles and we have imported 450 bottles.” A Slow Sipping Experience in Mumbai The third edition of the Vault Festival, held in Mumbai in February this year, hosted over 60 international and Indian exhibitors across craft spirits, wines, beer as well as curated experiences and master classes. The two-day event attracted audiences from the trade, hospitality, and consumer segments. Founder, Keshav Prakash said, “The Vault Festival highlights the ‘slow-drink’ movement – slow down and savour a diversity of drinks. This is an era of appreciation Liquid 29

news Indian Wine Growers Striding On In a major development in the Indian wine industry, the Wine Growers Association of India has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Pune based National Research Centre for Grapes (NRCG) for research and accredited nurseries. NRCG, which is part of the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) New Delhi, has the official mandate to research safe and sustainable grape production and enable the industry with production technologies. This MoU will translate into the first official national level initiative to research international and local grape varieties as well as establish accredited nurseries that will offer a variety of disease-free grape clones for Indian viticulturalists to acquire. NRCG and WineGAI will also and discovery. We provide an experiential platform that brings together like-minded connoisseurs, explorers, and curiosity-driven consumers.” Many international brands, which are still to enter the Indian market, also showcased their portfolios here. A dedicated UK Craft Pavilion presented gin and rum and featured boutique Irish whiskey. For the first time, the show had a Wine Pavilion presenting imported wines from Sonarys, Wine Park, Aspri and V Bev. Some of the key highlights of the event included the Mumbai launch of the three-year aged Camikara rum, homegrown cold brew coffee liqueur, Bandarful and Cotombi Reserve, a Goan whisky infused with charred coconut shells. The sit-down curated experiences hosted across seven zones included ‘The Pursuit of Smoke’ that delved into Scotland’s famous whisky region of Islay, ‘Tequila Talks’, which saw guided tastings by experts featuring craft tequilas and mezcals as well as ‘Saké Stories’ hosted by international expert, Maaya Takaoka. 30 Liquid undertake extensive research of the soil of various wine regions to assess which grapes would grow best in those respective regions. WineGAI Secretary Ashwin Rodrigues said, “Our ongoing dialogue with the NRCG has led to the MoU being signed in late February. NRCG will now engage

news in an extensive research of wine grapes – those in production and those that could be potentially planted – as part of an effort to create a bank of varietal clones that wineries can purchase as per their requirements.” Rodrigues underlined the significance of the MoU in the context of the region specific research that NRCG will undertake. “Indian wine producers have been planting and vinifying grapes thus far based on their own individual research. Now, NRCG will research the terroir of existing and potential wine regions to assess which grape varieties will be best suited to plant. The ensuing reports will help current and future wine growers make decisions regarding which varieties they want to and should plant.” At the same time, WineGAI has initiated discussions with the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) in South Australia to seek a collaborative framework of international best practices to help the Indian wine industry and translate the recently signed India-Australia Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement (ECTA) in a more meaningful cooperation and engagement between the two countries. An exchange programme is being formalised wherein Indian scientists will be invited to Australia to train at the AWRI while AWRI will send some of its top scientists to India to advise and train Indian professionals. Homegrown Malts Beat Imports In a historic first, the category of homegrown locally closely with policy makers and members to identify best practices for the industry. According to CIABC, domestic whisky producers accounted for 53 per cent of all single malt sales in India which stood at 675,000 cases last year, edging out imported malt. This translates into a 25 per cent growth over last year for the domestic producers. In comparison, imported single malt sales grew by 11 per cent. This confirms the impressive growth and wider acceptability of locally produced single malts. Future estimates in fact suggest this might not be a one off and may well be a trend with year-on-year growth for domestic single malts pegged at 13 per cent compared to 8 per cent for imports. produced single malt whiskies outperformed imported The report named the leading Indian single malt brands – single malts (predominantly Scotch), in sales in India Paul John, Amrut, Indri, Gianchand and, Rampur. Some for the year 2023. This is the first time ever that Indian of these brands have been bringing home international whisky has outsold imported whisky in any category, as accolades – a proud achievement. Radico Khaitan’s per records maintained. This outstanding development Rampur Asava Indian Single Malt Whisky won the Best in the Indian alcohol industry was recently revealed in a World Whisky at the 2023 John Barleycorn Awards report released by the Confederation of Indian Alcoholic while Indri’s Diwali Collector’s Edition won Best in Show Beverage Companies (CIABC) – an industry association at the Whiskies of the World Awards. Interestingly, in that represents domestic alcohol companies and works the last two years, international spirit companies have Liquid 31

news also ventured into the production of domestic single malt whiskies – Diageo launched Godawan and Pernod Ricard recently launched Longitude 77. Vino De Bella presently produces 1,200 cases annually with a presence in Maharashtra and imminent launches in Goa, Delhi, and Karnataka this year. Archana recently hosted a wine and culture festival, in collaboration with Harkaran Singh Sethi, General Manager of the Radisson Blu Mumbai International Airport Hotel, where the wines are listed. Pope Praises Wine as a Gift from God Photo: Mondadori/Getty Images Vino De Bella Wines Launch Catawba in Mumbai The Catawba grape was first known to be planted in the early 19th century in the American state of Maryland and is known to be a late ripener with the capacity of developing rich intense flavours of musk and mango. Vino De Bella is the latest entrant into the Indian wine industry, founded by entrepreneur Archana Singh. Nestled in Dindori within the Nashik region, the winery sources its fruit from vineyards in Ranwara and Dindori. Its range of nine wines across three labels features varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Tempranillo as well as an indigenous American grape Catawba which was launched recently across key Indian markets. According to Archana, the Central Government Addressing Italian wine producers, Pope Francis spoke had specially commissioned the planting of the red on the virtues of wine, hailing it as a gift from God. American grape Catawba across four Indian states in 2021. “As a new and boutique wine producer, I was keen to present the Catawba grape and see how the His remarks, delivered with fervour and reverence, highlighted wine’s spiritual significance and role in fostering joy and communion among people. market will respond. While Indian winemakers have Giving credit where it’s due, he lauded the commitment, been producing wine from a set of four to five grapes, craftsmanship and labour of the winemakers. He also this was an interesting opportunity.” Archana said. acknowledged the challenges faced by wine producers 32 Liquid

news amidst evolving environmental and economic landscapes and offered words of encouragement and solidarity. He emphasised the importance of responsible stewardship of the land, advocating for sustainable practices. The Pope also touched upon the intangible essence of wine and portrayed it as a conduit for joy and celebration, urging individuals to savour each sip not only for its taste but also for the communal spirit it embodies. His address seamlessly integrated biblical references, drawing parallels between the transformative power of wine and its spiritual significance throughout history in sacred narratives: from the Wedding Feast at Cana to the Last Supper. Embracing the rich cultural and religious symbolism associated with wine, the Pope’s words resonated with both wine producers and the larger global audience, transcending geographical boundaries and cultural differences. His message echoed sentiments expressed in diverse traditions, where wine holds a revered status as a symbol of hospitality, conviviality, and shared humanity. The report revealed that an increasing number of consumers are turning their backs on soft drinks, water, tea and coffee with the number of zero or low alcohol options tripling in the last five years. There was a steady increase in alcohol consumers switching to being alcohol-free. An interesting revelation however was that consumers of non-alcoholic beverages like water and soft drinks were trading up to zero-alcohol This tribute to wine transcends mere appreciation for its taste or cultural significance; it embodies a deeper products – the report estimates this conversion rate to spiritual understanding of humanity’s relationship with the divine and the profound interconnectedness of all creation. shifted to zero alcohol options, up substantially from Growth of Non-Alcoholic Drinks alcoholic beverages, but we are now increasingly seeing The international research think tank, International Wine & Spirits Research (IWSR), has tipped the scales in favour of the non-alcoholic drink segment. This was highlighted in a recently published report that focussed on the top ten world markets for low and zero alcohol beverages: Canada, Germany, France, Australia, Brazil, Japan, South Africa, Spain, UK and USA. Moderation is an established trend, with consumers be 44%. By comparison, 29% alcohol consumers had 2022. Susie Goldspink of IWSR confirmed, “Zero and low alcohol drinkers generally come from other nonconsumer migration also from full-strength categories.” Alcohol companies are increasingly recognising the growth potential in the non-alcoholic sector, investing in either developing low-and-no options of their established brands or acquiring ‘pure-play’ non-alcohol brands. shifting from alcoholic beverages to non-alcoholic alternatives. This trend, exemplified by customers switching from beer to 0.0% beer, presents an opportunity for brands to further focus on the noalcohol options within their portfolio, thereby retaining customers and driving incremental growth. L Liquid 33

Photo: Shutterstock tradition Lassi Legacy T Delicious Past & Present he history of Lassi, the humble drink, surpasses many contemporary beverages from around the for having created the ‘ancient smoothie’ circa 1000 world. Its mango variant has been rated the world’s toiled all day under the scorching subcontinent sun, best dairy beverage by Taste Atlas (a renowned online they quenched their thirst with Lassi, made with catalogue of food and drinks from across the globe), yoghurt, water, herbs, spices and fruits of their choice, in the well contended 2023-24 list. BC, in the heartland of then Hindustan. After having cooled to the right degree. Mango was a crowd favourite, and continues to tantalise many taste buds. When dissected, the term ‘Lassi’ means yoghurt and When sweetened with honey, this sweet concoction is water. The farmers of Punjab and Multan are credited often considered to be the successor of God’s nectar. 36 Liquid

Photo: pepperdelight.com tradition The farmers of Punjab and Multan are credited for having created the ‘ancient smoothie’ circa 1000 BC. Lassi can be both sweet and savoury. This gives every consumer control of how they want their lassi to taste. One can use either yoghurt or buttermilk as the base ingredient and customise it in so many different ways. The health-conscious are opting to replace the sugar in their lassi with alternatives, such as jaggery, honey, and fresh or dried fruits. As we are on the brink of our very own hot Indian summer, why not treat yourself to a refreshing Lassi? This recipe below will guide you through making it perfectly. SUMMER SPECIAL Ingredients: However, quenching parched throats was not the sole intention behind the drink. The Indian subcontinent was among the first to make advancements in treatments based on Ayurveda. Lassi has cemented a reputation for itself also due to its healing properties and many Ayurvedic benefits. It is considered to be high in protein and is believed to keep the immune • 1 cup chopped mango (very ripe or frozen) • 1 cup plain yoghurt • 1/2 cup water • 4 teaspoons honey or sugar (optional if the mango is very sweet) • Ice cubes • A few kesar (saffron) strands, almonds and pistachios system strong. Yoghurt, the main base ingredient, Step 1: Pulp the chopped mango in a food processor. serves as an excellent source of probiotics to promote Step 2: Add the yoghurt and your choice of natural good gut health. Additionally, the calcium found in sweetener. Blend it. the drink helps prevent osteoporosis, a condition characterised by weakening bones. Other benefits include some form of weight management, keeping Step 3: Garnish with some shaved almonds and sprinkle a few strands of kesar to add a luxurious touch. the heart healthy and keeping heartburn at bay. Your Mango Lassi is ready! The cooling drink has travelled continents and different Enjoy your first sip and keep treating yourself to variations of the lassi are found across the world, many other variations of this drink that will continue especially in countries connected to the British Empire to stand the test of time, giving the sweet Indian from the past. One of the most probable reasons beverage a well deserved nod and more international for the popularity of this drink is its versatility. While recognition! L Mango Lassi is one of the most commonly consumed Ranak Singh Mann is a writer and designer based in Delhi. He loves sunflowers and sundowners. lassis, there are so many other fruit-based lassis. Liquid 37

innovation Boba Boom The Bubble Tea Surge B ubble tea’s popularity has surged globally, transitioning from its once-niche presence to becoming a ubiquitous trend. This effervescent beverage has not only graced the hands of millennials and Gen Z but has also claimed its spot in the limelight As the beverage went international, shops started offering a wide variety of flavours and customisation options. across various social media platforms. But when and where did it all start bubbling? Bubble tea or Pearl Milk tea (colloquially known as Boba in the US) is a popular refreshing beverage which originated in Taiwanese night markets in the Shortly after, in the 1990s, it made its way to other Asian countries like China, Hong Kong, Thailand and Singapore. It travelled further up to North America in 1980s when tea stalls started experimenting by adding the early 2000s (predominantly in cities with a large sweetened tapioca pearls to iced milk tea. The result Asian population) and subsequently became a global was a unique drink which quickly gained popularity trend. This beckons the question: what exactly fills among the young crowd. that enticing glass? 38 Liquid

innovation Bubble tea typically consists of a base tea (usually black or green tea) mixed with milk, sweeteners, and other flavourings which are shaken together till bubbles form. Another distinct feature of the bubble tea is chewy tapioca pearls aka boba that are added to the drink. Made from cassava root (yes, the same thing sabudana is made from), these sweetened bubbles lend an eclectic texture to the beverage, adding an enjoyable and playful element to the drink. As the beverage went international, shops started offering a wide variety of flavours and customisation options. One was able to choose different tea bases, sweetness levels, flavours and additional toppings which include tapioca pearls (which also come in an array of flavours), fruit jellies, aloe vera and even, ice cream. Today, it has diversified even further into fruitbased bubble teas, alcoholic bubble teas and with topping such as cheese foam! The possibilities are endless. WHICH FLAVOURS SHOULD I TRY AS A BEGINNER? Original milk tea – no better place to start than the original trendsetter. Where: Boba Nation (Delhi), The Boba Club (Mumbai), Bubble n Tea Asian Cafe (Kolkata) Thai milk tea – if you like some spice in your drink. Where: Tea Bear (Delhi), Boba Panda (Kolkata), Easy Boba (Mumbai) Mango milk tea – a mellow not-too-sweet flavour that appeals to most Indian palates. Where: Tea Bear (Delhi), Burma Burma (across all outlets in India), Big Straw Blast (Bangalore), Barako (Mumbai) Strawberry milk tea – a flavour profile quite close to strawberry milkshake. Where: Got Tea (Delhi), Mr Boba Bubbles (Delhi), Bubble n Tea Asian Cafe (Kolkata) Got Tea, Delhi While bubble tea has had a presence in India for several Coffee milk tea – Get the best of both worlds (coffee and tea) in this caffeinated concoction. years, primarily concentrated in specific markets like Where: Tea Bear (Delhi), Green Neko (Delhi), Easy Majnu Ka Tila in north Delhi, there has been a recent Boba (Mumbai) explosion of bubble tea shops across the country, seemingly materialising almost overnight. The flavours and bubble options may be overwhelming at first but we’re here to guide you through experiencing this Matcha/green milk tea – for green tea lovers, this is your true match(a): creamy, vibrant, and full of goodness. unique beverage offering a delightful combination of Where: Got Tea (Delhi), Easy Boba (Mumbai), Boba flavours, textures, and a touch of whimsy. L Cafe - A True Bubble Tea (Bangalore) Navni Kumar Don’t forget to choose your popping boba! Liquid 39

mixer Tonic A New Take I n a market flooded with innovative non-alcoholic beverages, tonic water often goes unnoticed. Once In 1858 Erasmus Bond, owner of Pitt & Co, patented seen as a mere accompaniment to gin, tonic water a century-old Swedish company called Schweppes has experienced a quiet revolution in recent years – stepped in to produce their own ‘Indian Tonic Water’ – one that becomes quite evident when you look for it and went on to dominate the global market. on bar menus, and even at local grocery stores! the first commercial carbonated tonic water. In 1870, It was the marriage to tonic that brought gin Tonic water first made an appearance in India early in respectability. Before the 19th century, gin was the 19th century. British settlers were faced with the considered the ruin of London itself; a scourge of the grave threat of malaria – the only known solution for working classes and a symbol of all things degenerate. which was daily doses of quinine. However, quinine’s Circa 1868, gin and tonic (G&T) found mention for the bitterness made it difficult to ingest. Through trial and error, it was discovered that mixing quinine with sugar and water helped alleviate the bitterness. This mix was added to their daily dose of spirits. Eventually, they hit upon gin as the most flavoursome option. Various ‘quinine tonic waters’ started selling in British colonies as a fever remedy. 40 Liquid The story behind the creation of a limited edition matters almost as much as the spirit inside the bottle...

Photo: Schweppes mixer The herbs and botanicals in gins work well with the bitterness of tonic. Enhanced by carbonation and the chill of ice, the pairing is proof of that old axiom – the classics never die. Cheaper, mass-produced tonic waters contain synthetic quinine whose harsh, rather unpalatable bitterness is often masked by high sugar levels. More premium brands use natural quinine extracted from the cinchona bark for a refreshing, distinct flavour with less sugar used. Instead, ingredients like sea salt, juniper berries, citrus and other herbs and spices are used to enhance the flavours. first time in a publication called The Oriental Sporting Magazine, as a refreshing drink popular with the Photo: Sepoy & Co. Gin has enjoyed a revival in the last decade or so. This coupled with increasingly discerning and healthconscious consumers (a trend accelerated by the horse-racing crowd. The soon-to-be-iconic drink had been legitimised. Tonic water is distinct for a sharp bitterness with a hint of sweet and citrus. Its quality and flavouring matters; the right tonic water can enhance the subtle flavour Photo: Fever-Tree notes in a gin, while the wrong one can bury them. Quinine is an ingredient pandemic), has resulted in a slew of new tonic waters in India. Post-Independence, various local brands of tonic were produced. Schweppes, launched here by Coca Cola in 1999, continues to dominate the market even today. When UK-based Fever-Tree entered the market in 2014, G&T was confined to elite spaces like club bars and luxury hotels. However, Fever-Tree was prescient in spotting the vast potential for tonic water, given the growing popularity of white spirits in India. Made with fine quinine from Africa and Mexican bitter orange, it heralded the arrival of more premium and inventive tonic water brands. Liquid 41

Photo: Sepoy & Co. mixer organic ingredients like cardamom from Kerala, mandarin oranges from Coorg and basil from UP. As the sustainability trend gained momentum, Newtreo Tonic water came in with recyclable aluminium cans. Sepoy, recently rechristened with ‘Sparkling Himalayan Mixers’ tagged to the brand name, has shifted production to a new manufacturing facility in the Himalayan foothills. As Soni explains: “We chose the location specifically for access to pure waters, which gives us a competitive edge locally and globally.” Imported brands find a place along with domestic. The London Essence, voted the No. 2 top trending mixer in 2023 by the World’s Best Bars, is one. Others include the super-premium Seventeen (formerly 1724) that uses quinine from Peru and water from Patagonia, and British brand Fentiman’s which offers the ‘world’s first botanically brewed tonic waters’ in flavours like pink grapefruit and elderflower and rose. to make a mark in the sector were launched – Svami and Sepoy & Co. Between them, they took tonic water in India from its status quo as gin’s sidekick, to a beverage with a host of possibilities. The trio of Aneesh Bhasin, Sahil Jatana and Rahul Mehra poured their combined years of experience into developing recipes for Svami tonic waters. The range includes low-calorie light tonic – the 3 Cal Tonic became an instant bestseller – and flavoured options Logic dictates that the fortunes of tonic water are tied inextricably to that of gin, and currently, India is the 5th largest market for gin in the world. This is echoed by Anand Jangwan of Peer tonic water. “About 70% of the time a consumer will have G&T. As the gin market grows, so does the tonic water market.” But there is more to the tonic’s trajectory. Photo: Sepoy & Co. In 2018, two domestic brands that would soon come like grapefruit and cucumber. Their ‘Zero-proof’ collection includes variants of non-alcoholic gin and tonic. Sepoy’s Angad Soni had a vision for a ‘premium adult soft beverage’ and curated tonic waters with essential oils and spices and naturally derived quinine to craft five flavours of all-natural, low calorie tonic waters. Both introduced a whole new concept – tonic waters as stand-alone beverages. And with that, the floodgates opened. Jade Forest, launched in 2019 by Shuchir Suri and Punweet Singh is now available in 23 Indian cities. Rishabh Gupta’s Bengal Bay followed in 2020, with a spiced orange and basil variant, using a cold blending method with 42 Liquid Angad Soni

Photo: Svami mixer Logic dictates that the fortunes of tonic water are tied inextricably to that of gin. the tonic segment cannot be solely explained by gindrinking alone. It is gaining popularity paired with other spirits, as a key ingredient for cocktails and mocktails, as well as a stand-alone beverage, healthier than many soft drinks. Hibiscus, oriental yuzu, pink rhubarb, elderflower, and mint are some of the exotic flavours that intrigue consumers. Svami has launched a limited edition Pandan tonic and recommend their grapefruit variant with tequila. Malaki offers a coffee tonic water, inspired by the Swedish espresso and tonic that has Photo: Fentimans become a rage in Europe and America. Photo: Jade Forest The global tonic water market is estimated at $1.29 billion this year and is expected to grow at 7.45% CAGR. In India, premium tonic water is forecasted to grow at 15% CAGR between 2022 and 2025. So, while the G&T remains front and centre, the growth of With new flavours and healthier options, tonic water is now holding its ground in two beverage categories – mixers and soft drinks. It seems, Indian tonic water has truly come of age. L Radhika Tandon is a freelance writer (radhikatandon. contently.com), editor-at-large and author of English textbooks who loves travel, stories, and a good G&T. Liquid 43

Photo: Brent Hofacker mixer Decoding Syrups S yrups are the understated heroes hidden in the depths of the swirling exotic drinks they enrich. Be it coffee or frappe, decorative cocktail or mocktail, there is nothing a syrup cannot embellish flavourfully. and Tamarind Masala are options in which syrups are available, which can be used to create completely unique drinks. Starting with the humble sugar syrup, brands like With a base of water and sugar melted together into a Monin, Tastecraft, DaVinci and Mathieu Teisseire gooey molasses-like consistency, this treacle can be offer a mind boggling array of flavoured syrups infused with fruity, floral, spicy, candy, nutty flavours to mixologists, baristas, chefs and the more which range from vanilla, buttercup, chocolate, caramel, tiramisu, popcorn, cheesecake to a plethora of florals like lavender, hibiscus, elderflower, rose and fruity ones like mango, peach, blueberry, raspberry, grapefruit, syrups are becoming a force to be reckoned with. If Pumpkin and Cucumber syrups don’t surprise you, then how about some shockers – Rasam Curry 44 Liquid “We witnessed an upswing in consumer demand during the pandemic when lockdowns forced people to make their favourites at home.”

mixer chocolate, orange with mango – which almost seem like oxymorons in syrup combinations. Amongst businesses, QSRs and cafes are prominent users of syrups. There is a high and growing need for syrups by mixologists and baristas, though some level of customisation is needed to meet their specific needs. Local manufacturing of syrups seems to fit these needs better than procurement through imports. Making a cocktail at home seems easy – keep the ingredient list ready and follow the simple instruction – stir! In the mood for a Blue Curaçao Mojito? Take the Monin Blue Curaçao and the Mojito Mint. Get your hands on some lime juice, soda, ice cubes, crushed ice and cut a few lemon chunks with mint leaves for garnishing. In a tall glass, start with the lemon chunks and muddle them a little, ‘tap’ in the cut mint leaves, Sai Harish add 20ml of the Blue Curaçao syrup and then 10ml of experimentative consumers wanting to replicate the Mojito Mint syrup along with 20ml of lemon juice. exotic drinks at home. For these enthusiasts, Monin Top off with a few ice cubes, add water to taste and has created a dedicated page on its website – ‘Monin crushed ice. Don’t forget the lemon slice on the rim of at Home’ – that provides easy recipes to prepare the glass. Who can resist this beautiful blue delicious bar-like fancy cocktails and mocktails at home. Most concoction? Photo: Monin syrups are easily available online and through leading retailers. While 700ml and one litre bottles are typical for businesses, 250ml bottles are for in-home users. Sai Harish, Marketing Head at Monin, said, “we witnessed an upswing in consumer demand during the pandemic when lockdowns forced people to make their favourites at home.” Sai disclosed the consumers’ top picks – Mojito, Watermelon, Green Apple, Blue Curaçao, Spicy Jamun, Peach, Hazelnut, Vanilla, and Strawberry – fruits dominate. To tap the high potential anticipated from consumers, Monin is focussing on educating, informing, and enabling consumers. Recipes, contests, and other push content are in full swing on social media handles along with increased availability via e-commerce channels. For the uninitiated, Mathieu Teisseire has some discerning tips and unpredictable flavour combinations on its website. For example, orange with almond…really? And then there is orange with Liquid 45

Refreshing and subtle flavours are perfect for mocktails and cocktails, while nutty and dulce notes like hazelnut, vanilla, brown butter and caramel complement coffee. An emerging trend is catching attention: ‘daisy’ flavours such as spiced jamun and saffron add a nostalgic charm to contemporary drinks. If inspired, here are a few tips to enhance your savoir faire while making and serving syrup enhanced drinks to your guests. • Use pour sprouts and jiggers to ensure precise amounts and speed. • Organise your bar with bottles, mixers, syrups in place and ready to be danced into a fanfare of cocktails/mocktails. • Keep a wide range of soft drinks and syrups to make heady mocktails for the non-alcoholic preferences. In case you are still scratching your head and wondering what the big deal with syrups is, here are some reasons. First, syrups cut across all kinds of tastes and flavours – floral, fruity, nutty, spicy, classic etc. Second, their applications are wide and varied – hot, over ice, ice-blended and in all types of drinks and food. Third, they transform the ordinary to extraordinary – Apple, Hibiscus, Bong-Bong, Double-Berry, Fruit Tea, Iced Vanilla Chai – from Monin and DaVinci. 46 Liquid Need I say more? I wave adieu as you speed down the drinks aisle at the supermarket to mesmerise your guests with your newly found syrup panache. Shake a cocktail, pour an icy mocktail, charm your guests – all in a syrupy heartbeat. L Nandita Kaushik is a creative writer, content writer, blogger and a poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Her first book, ‘Rediscover your Midlife Mojo’ has been launched online and at book stores pan India. Photo: Mathieu Teisseire Photo: Tastecraft Photo: DaVinci mixer

cocktail Cocktail Culture Ruling Trends I n today’s vibrant cocktail scene, mixologists are continuously pushing boundaries. It’s the perfect time for enthusiasts (like you and me) to immerse ourselves in the evolving cocktail culture. Enjoy the thrill of bar hopping and sample concoctions infused with storytelling, innovation, and a newfound focus on health and sustainability. 48 Liquid Innovative methods allow us to unlock new dimensions of flavours and aromas.

cocktail Let’s dive into a tall glass of cocktail trends, as spotted by three experts. THE ART OF STORYTELLING Hemali Bendre (Brand Developer, Diageo) in Hollywood, had a roof with the sound of fake rain falling creating a tropical atmosphere. “If you can’t get to paradise, I’ll bring it to you!” was his motto.” Hemali tells us how bars like O Pedro, PCO Bombay, Slink and Bardot, and Sidecar have fully embraced this trend; with cocktails inspired by the essence of perfumes to literary masterpieces of the recent centuries. The art of storytelling thrives, inviting guests to embark on a sensory journey unlike any other. She envisions a “future where each cocktail serves as a gateway to a world of imagination and wonder, where the lines between reality and fantasy blur with every sip.” FAT WASHING & DISTILLATION Gyan Thapa (Mixologist, Bar 1240) Hemali Bendre Hemali’s journey began at The Bombay Canteen, where she discovered the rich tradition of cocktail ‘storytelling’ embedded in the very soul of the establishment. Leafing through vintage cocktail books adorned with tales of vibrant people and art deco buildings on Bombay’s promenades, she realised the power of narrative in enhancing the cocktail experience. She believes, “Storytelling is a way of expressing your Gyan Thapa love for drinks so that your guests forget their worries “We’re passionate about embracing the latest trends of the day when they come to your bar. That is your in mixology, and two techniques that have captured chance to change their mood and transport them into our hearts – and taste buds – are ‘fat washing’ and your world of stories with your cocktails.” ‘distillation’,” Gyan tells us when asked about what has But how exactly does storytelling feature in the realm of cocktails? “You could be at a bar having a drink and been going behind the beautiful vintage bar, 1240 in Anjuna, Goa. listening to the bartender tell you the story behind the But what in the world is fat washing? Simply put, it is a drink – the idea that inspired it, its origins and how they technique where spirits like whiskey or rum are infused made it. For example, Ernest Gantt was the founding with the flavours of say bacon fat or coconut oil. After father of Tiki culture. His bar, Don’s Beachcomber infusing, the fat is strained out, leaving behind a spirit Liquid 49

cocktail Distillation on the other hand, is the art of purifying and concentrating flavours. creating cocktails that are as bold and unforgettable as they are refined and sophisticated.” CLARIFICATION & CONSCIOUS CONSUMPTION Sergej Platonov (Co-owner, Law & Order Bar, Amsterdam) with rich, nuanced flavours, and bereft of the calories that usually accompany fat. Sold yet? If not, Gyan’s recommended Bacon Old Fashioned may convert you – infuse your favourite Bourbon with bacon fat for a few hours (or days, if you have the time). Once done, chill to solidify the fat and strain it out. Pour it in a glass, add maple syrup and bitters and serve over ice with a strip of crispy bacon. Mmm. Distillation on the other hand, is the art of purifying and concentrating flavours by heating a liquid to create vapour which is then cooled to condense it back into a liquid. This is commonly used to create flavoured spirits or distillates using herbs, spices and Sergej Platonov Sergej sheds some light on what’s trending internationally. “In Europe, we are still running with ‘clarification’ – a trend that doesn’t seem to be going away anytime soon. Whether it’s a Martini or a Bloody fruits, which are then used in cocktails to enhance Mary, bartenders find ways to make them clear.” their aroma and taste. So, when you come across a Let’s take a closer look at what this entails. Picture menu which has ‘house-infused gin’, your drink is a result of prior distillation. this: transforming a cloudy or opaque liquid into a crystal-clear elixir, enhancing not just its appearance, Gyan explains that “these innovative methods allow but also its texture and mouthfeel. It’s like giving us to unlock new dimensions of flavours and aromas, your cocktail a makeover! Skilled bartenders employ 50 Liquid

cocktail Photo: Don the Beachcomber Alternatively, bartenders might turn to ‘gelatin fining’ – adding gelatin to bind impurities, which are then removed through filtration. ‘Agar clarification’ is another popular method, in which agar agar traps impurities, allowing their easy removal through straining. Or there’s ‘boiling and straining’, where the liquid is boiled with ingredients like egg whites, which bind to impurities and are removed by straining, leaving behind a clear and refined liquid ready for cocktail crafting. Photo: danmurphys.com.au These methods seamlessly intertwine science and artistry, ultimately elevating the cocktail experience to new heights. various intriguing methods to remove particles and impurities to get a pure clear liquid. Photo: Kevork Djansezian/Getty Images They might start with ‘filtration’, where the liquid passes through a mesh or filter to remove particles and impurities. Another approach involves ‘centrifugation’, utilising high-speed spinning to separate liquid from solids, with denser particles settling at the bottom. Clarification In this pursuit of clear cocktail perfection, a new ethos is fast taking the continent (and, the world) by storm – mindful and healthy drinking. Sergej is all praise for this new movement. “Young bartenders are finding a better life-work balance and as that is happening, you can see more interesting and healthy ingredients go into cocktails. Together with that, the pitch for sustainability is rising as well. It is inspiring to see!” As Europe embraces this paradigm shift, the cocktail scene evolves, resonating with a generation that seeks balance and wellness in every sip. Mixology is clearly in full swing and only promises to get more and more creative. Here’s raising a fatwashed, clear, well-balanced drink with an enchanting backstory to that! L Distillation Navni Kumar Liquid 51

beer On Tap Craft Beer in India B eer has always been a part of my life. At 16, I remember sneaking sips from my father’s nearly THE BEGINNING It was a gradual journey before beer claimed its rightful empty mug of London Pilsner, amidst a bustling spotlight. Terms like IPAs and Wits were entirely household in the sweltering heat. College brought foreign, requiring enthusiasts who had traversed the beach vacations filled with covertly shared pints of globe to broaden the horizons of those around them. Kingfisher. Later, office gatherings were fuelled by clinks of Budweiser cans. I was exposed to iconic brews that defined the American beer scene at the time, during my expedition Looking back, it’s clear that India’s beer culture to the USA circa 2006. Beers like Stone Ruination, predated many global trends. However, there is a Pabst Blue Ribbon (a venerable brew dating back to chasm vis-à-vis the international scene, especially 1844), Michelob Ultra, and Dale’s Pale Ale, opened my around the turn of the millennium. eyes to the aromatic and bitter delights of IPAs. 52 Liquid

beer christened ‘The Brewers Association’, took it upon India’s beer culture predates many global trends but there is a chasm visà-vis the international scene. themselves to shake up the status quo; it marked the beginning of microbreweries crafting bespoke beers. The revolution was spearheaded by Doolally, India’s pioneering microbrewery, established in 2009, by German Brewmaster Oliver Schauf and entrepreneur, Around this time that, group of hustling brewers in the heart of Pune and Mumbai, quietly led a revolution, Suketu Talekar. They embarked on a mission to acquaint Indians with craft beers. which formalised into the craft beer movement around “We launched with a humble selection of three beers the year 2006. and a cider,” reminisces Tresha Guha, Chief Experience This was when I encountered a kindred spirit in Rahul Mehra, an aspiring brewer who had transformed a corner of his home into a makeshift brewery. Our weekends were spent sampling his creations – raw, yet remarkably flavourful. Among them was a saffron- Officer at Doolally. “Our aim was straightforward: to liberate beer drinkers from the clutches of mediocre brews.” With offerings like Greenlandic Ale, Hefeweizen, Rye Ale, and Apple Cider, Doolally swiftly garnered a devoted following. infused brew crafted especially for Diwali. Rahul was In 2011, Rahul Mehra and beer aficionado, Navin Mittal one of many pioneers shaping a community dedicated founded Gateway Brewing Co. with a simple and to pushing brewing boundaries in India, sparking daring mission to craft novel and exhilarating beers curiosity, and laying the groundwork for craft brews in that would tantalise the Indian palate. this nascent market. “Our aim was to create beers that were bold, innovative, A REVOLUTION IN THE MAKING and quintessentially Indian,” recalls Navin. From their In a country accustomed to imbibing mass-produced flagship Doppelganger Ale and Mango Chilli Wit to the light beers laden with glycerine, the notion of better beer intriguing Masala Chai Stout, they consistently pushed was either unknown, overlooked, or simply ignored. the boundaries of brewing, transcending Mumbai, and A group of passionate and determined brewers, captivating adventurous enthusiasts nationwide. Liquid 53

Photo: Gateway Brewery beer In Bangalore, Arvind Raju, Co-Founder of The Biere Club, reflects on their journey. “Advocating and securing the legalisation of microbreweries across India since 2006, we could establish our presence in Bangalore in 2011, pioneering the microbrewery scene in South India.” These somewhat rare community In a country imbibing mass-produced light beers laden with glycerine, the notion of better beer was unknown, overlooked, or simply ignored. efforts revolutionized beer consumption. Emerging breweries like Geist Brewing Co., founded in 2017 by craft beer. Across India, craft beer gained momentum, with over 150 breweries scattered across India – in Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore, and Gurgaon. Hyderabad, Chennai, Kolkata, Chandigarh, and Jaipur are following suit. Bangalore stands out as a craft beer haven with a thriving culture and passionate community. Kolkata too boasts a vibrant beer scene of its own while Mumbai grapples with exorbitant costs. In contrast, Gurugram, is still finding its footing in the craft beer landscape but shows potential for growth. CRAFTING THE FUTURE According to the Mintel Beer Report for India 2020, the beer industry is poised for significant growth, with predicted volumes reaching around 2 billion litres by 2024, despite a discernible shift in consumer preferences towards premium wines, craft spirits, and cocktails. 54 Liquid The brewing canvas in India offers brewers a myriad of local ingredients to play with. The Biere Club and Gateway Brewing Co. have explored locally sourced fruits, spices, and herbs to craft distinct brews that are fruit-forward, expertly balanced, infused with Photo: Geist Brewing Co. Narayan Manepally, made a mark with planet-friendly

Photo: Tapped beer a wider range of styles and flavours. While traditional offerings like wheat beers and lagers remain popular, there’s a growing demand for more experimental concoctions. Bhakti Mehta, Co-Founder of Tapped Beer festival, believes that “craft beers are still very niche. My palate has evolved over the years to appreciate brews like Neipa by Great State and the bold IPA from Gateway Brewing Co.” However, it has not been a journey without challenges. Navin reflects, “Craft breweries have been affected by regulations, taxes, and the apathy of policymakers.” Despite these obstacles, brewers nationwide remain unshaken. Looking ahead, the future of craft beer in India appears bright. As the sun sets over taprooms across the country, the clinking of glasses echoes a toast to the As the craft beer scene in India continues to mature, consumer palates are evolving, and they are embracing enduring spirit of the craft beer revolution. Cheers to that! L Nikhil Merchant a Mumbai born restaurateur, food expert and writer (Nonchalant Gourmand), strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life. Photo: Vishal Thomas tropical fruits and aromatic spices. Rohit Raj, a beer enthusiast, admires breweries like Rolling Mills, which use local ingredients. Liquid 55

cognac Cognac Chronicles V ictor Hugo – the romantically inclined gentleman with a grand repertoire of art under his belt, a wine preserved for travel to its current-day luxury wrote histrionic tales like Les Misérables – referring to a spirit of elegance but also a testament to the art Cognac as the ‘liquor of the Gods’ in his works. I am of crafting fine liquor through meticulous methods most inclined to agree with him. that have been passed down through generations. This godly spirit is regarded as the pinnacle of French brandies – all Cognac is brandy but only those brandies that are from the Cognac region, nestled in status. This luxurious and revered spirit is not only Cognac’s past is nearly as captivating as its taste. Safe to say, without ingenuity, competition, and innovation, we would not have this deep and complex drink we enjoy today. It is probably fair to say that, the heart of South-Western France, not too far from back in the late 18th century and a good chunk of the Bordeaux, can claim this coveted appellation. past century, one might have called the result early Many subtle yet important differences hoist Cognac and bet everything on Cognac. above its brandy brethren. Cognac has had a long, So, let’s go back to where it all began. The wine world illustrious, and fascinating history, from its origins as was left dumbfounded in the late 19th century when 56 Liquid

cognac Cognac has had a long, illustrious, and fascinating history behind its currentday luxury status. by a twist of fate, phylloxera – the pesky root-killing aphid – piggybacked its way across the Atlantic and eviscerated most of Europe’s vineyards putting the French and the neighbours with grape vines down for the count. The origins of Cognac can be traced to the 16th century when Dutch settlers arrived in the south-west of France to purchase commodities like salt, wood and wine. However, they often had difficulty making sure the wine they brought back from France lasted their homebound voyage. This instigated them to start distilling wine in this region – initially, they distilled it only once, perhaps to try to keep it as wine-like as possible. After dabbling a bit, and resorting to trial and A vintage cognac poster Shipping wine on the Charente to La Rochelle Liquid 57

Photo: Rémy Martin Photo: Rémy Martin cognac Sidecar Neat or on ice error, they realised that distilling it twice made for a Now, let me share with you how I enjoy my Cognac. You much more refined and pleasant end result. This is may be pardoned for thinking of white fuzzy slippers how brandy was born and Cognac was crowned. and a burgundy robe, accompanied by a crackling fire. The reputation of Cognac has come a long way from being an ‘old man’s drink’ to becoming one of the It’s impossible to disregard the austerity of this fantasy, but I firmly believe that Cognac shouldn’t be relegated to posh, regal, winter nights alone; a warm chirpy spring most popular luscious spirits in the global market. The day does the trick just as well! Think of Cognac as a resistance to Cognac being mixed in cocktails has new spirit to work into rotation with that aged whiskey also started to gradually thaw. It is frequently forgotten or a glass of gin that one can enjoy perennially. that in the early 1800s, Cognac was among the most widely used cocktail spirits of all. While drinking Cognac on its own – neat – is often the preferred manner – and what I would mostly suggest, it can serve as a brilliant base for mixed drinks too. And we all are perfectly aware that once you’ve opened Pandora’s box, the possibilities are endless. The young ‘purist’ in me didn’t think much of the latter all those years ago. I vividly remember my pipsqueak protest at one of my father’s parties in front of all his guests “Daddy, your friend is ruining your Cognac, he’s put ice in it!” Through the guffaws of the moustached men and cigar smoke swirls, one It is frequently forgotten that in the early 1800s, Cognac was among the most widely used cocktail spirits of all. 58 Liquid

cognac Photo: iStock very embarrassed guest scowled as I self-righteously proclaimed all the Cognac knowledge I had, at the ripe old age of five. Little did I know then, that my Cognac chronicles would only evolve consistently through the coming years of my life. Cut to a few years ago. My brother was meandering through Bordeaux, Burgundy and Cognac and brought back a very special gift. A hand-blown special edition glass bottle of Hennessy Master Blenders from the batch of the very day I was born. My name and date inscribed on the bottle in all its glory – a true treasure. To my brother’s uncanny foresight and love – merci! Whenever I enjoy two fingers of this lovely liquid in my delicately etched brandy balloon, all I care about in that moment is to experience the weight of the Cognac on my tongue, taste its voluptuous flavours, take in its soothing aromas, and feel its amalgamation with the earth. An experience like no other. I am not alone in my affinity to Cognac and this is evident promote biodiversity; ensure quality of water, air and in the way the drink continues to gain popularity. In soil; pilot restrictive vine synthesis treatment; manage response to the ever-evolving consumer preferences, soil life sustainably and aim for carbon sobriety to producers have expanded their offerings to include ensure the longevity of the region’s ecosystem. single vintage releases, experimental blends, limited editions and have even embraced the cocktail culture which incorporates Cognac as a primary ingredient. All hail the Sidecar! These expressions cater to enthusiasts and collectors seeking inimitable and exclusive experiences, driving demand and interest. Many producers have also risen to the occasion to adopt eco-friendly practices for a reduced carbon Cognac stands as an enduring symbol of refined taste and timeless elegance. This venerable spirit representing the epitome of luxury, ensures that its eternal allure is set to captivate newcomers and connoisseurs alike for generations to come. L Xenia Jamshyd Lam has a Masters in Gastronomy from the University of Gastronomic Sciences, Pollenzo. Travelling, writing and art are her passions. Photo: Louis XIII footprint. They are focussing on practices that With its rich legacy of craftsmanship and tradition, Louis XIII The Drop Liquid 59

barrel Barrels Nature’s Art of Ageing M any centuries ago, the oak barrel was regarded merely as a vessel meant to transport wine. a seasoning period before the staves are selected for Today, it has evolved into a key scientific tool from that barrels acquire the tools that provide wine the which one can adapt different parameters such as strength and ability to develop its personality. As the tannin content, flavour content, micro-porosity/pace wine ages in a barrel, its structure is refined and the of ageing, stabilisation etc. It is widely believed that liquid gains complexity while its youthful character is there can be no fine wine without barrels. barrel making. It is during this entire chain of events preserved. The taste softens and the aroma changes Arjun Sachar, India Head for Tonnellerie Demptos, from varietal and fermented notes to a more complex which completes 10 years of its presence in India, bouquet. shares some pointers about barrel ageing and the journey of barrel-aged wine over time. BARREL MAKETH THE WINE It takes more than two centuries for a French oak tree to reach its optimum harvest level. This is followed by a period of more than two years which is defined as 60 Liquid Wood contact during ageing widens the wine’s aromatic and sensory palate and imparts an extra organoleptic dimension.

barrel in a Cabernet Sauvignon, the minty freshness comes from the monoterpenes formed by the transformation of limonene (a chemical most commonly found in the rind of citrus fruits) such as menthol, mint lactones, piperitone and carvone. So, when the wine is aged in barrels, such expressions can persist and even get better over decades. BRIGHT, BIG BOUQUET Wood contact during ageing widens the wine’s aromatic and sensory palate. It imparts to the wine an extra aromatic dimension other than the freshness and fruit, which comes from the grape and the terpene content. Notes like vanilla, chocolate, cloves, allspice to leather, truffle, coffee and cigar box are all notable tertiary aromas associated with barrel ageing. For example, 2-furanemethanethiol is an aromatic compound associated with coffee notes found in wood. This aromatic compound has long been identified as a key molecular indicator in the ageing bouquet of old Bordeaux wines. UNDER OAK WOOD The ageing of wine in the presence of oxygen occurs under the direct effects of ellagitannin which is present in oak. As the wood comes in contact with the wine, it releases ellagitannins, (essentially, a type of ester) which play two important roles: they protect the wine from negative effects of radical oxidation and promote the phenomenon of positive oxidation. Over time, the ellagitannins take on an architectural structure, which acts as an armour for the wine, providing it with colloidal stability – this results in the wine’s flavours coming together and also highlights the longer finish and greater depth in the wine. FLAVOURS WELL PRESERVED A wine’s resistance to deterioration is a direct function of how it evolves – whether it was bottled immediately post fermentation or allowed to age in barrels for some time before being bottled. The fresh fruit notes correspond to the grape varieties used and the terpene content. Terpene is an aromatic compound that accounts for the floral and menthol notes found in the wine. Such aromatic expressions are important for certain grape varieties. For example, Liquid 61

barrel key role in the oxidation process as the wine matures It takes more than two centuries for a French oak tree to reach its optimum harvest level. in the barrel. Notably, wine that is subject to very slow exposure to oxygen becomes more resistant over a period of time, as the wine’s small polyphenols become larger. Hence, micro-porosity is a key determinant in defining the wine’s ageing potential and by extension, OXIDATION PROOF The biochemical path of these aromatic compounds comprises a succession of oxidation and reduction reactions. It is important to control this redox balance in order to preserve such compounds over a period of time. As the wine ages, a fall in pH levels and the resulting acidic conditions can lead to a molecular rearrangement of the terpene compounds. SLOWER THE BETTER Most wine is consumed young since most wines don’t undergo barrel ageing, which makes them vulnerable to the passage of time. Ageing a wine allows it to remain ‘younger’ for much longer. One of the key compositions in the structure of wood is its microporosity, also defined as the grain size. This plays a 62 Liquid its eventual quality. L

spirit Small Batches, Big Stories Limited Editions T here was a time when spirits companies needed to make little effort to hold their consumers in thrall of their core product. Maintaining consistency and reasonable value, with the odd bell and whistle of occasional festive promotions, was all that was needed to keep the wheels turning and sales flowing marketing ideas to impress drinkers rather than just intoxicate. A prime weapon in that arsenal is the emerging niche of limited editions. Not a frighteningly original idea, the limited edition concept 2.0 is almost unrecognisable compared to its age-old version – which for all practical at the reliable speed of a steamer plodding along a purposes, was a mere marketing gimmick. At times, it placid waterway. However, today, that leisurely vessel became the literal embodiment of the cliched ‘old wine may be resting in the murky depths alongside brands in a new bottle’ when hard pressed distillers would fill that stayed complacent. Above, on the surface, roam up bottles of unsold stock and label the lot as a limited swift speedboats, equipped with a cache of modern edition batch that collectors better pick up before it 64 Liquid

spirit supposedly disappeared back into the deadweight inventory. In many cases, it was just about hopping on the festive bandwagon to bump up sales. Today, the limited edition game is played entirely on another echelon. A dedicated strategy and long The story behind the creation of a limited edition matters almost as much as the spirit inside the bottle... process of envisioning and crafting an expression through purposeful distillation and aging in some specifically chosen and treated barrels then becomes but also to add another layer to their trending tipple. part of a larger universe populated by stories told Indri has had a busy three years in which it gained by ambassadors, influencers, enthusiasts et al. a national presence and cult reputation, sealed by The priority is no longer the board room defence of its Diwali Collector’s Edition 2023 which won Best in sales figures but of putting the best foot forward and Show, Double Gold at the prestigious Whiskies of the presenting an expression that in the truest sense of World Awards. Founder Siddarth Sharma reinforces the limited-edition niche, deserves to be collected, the point about limited editions having little to do savoured and prided upon. with sales but rather the opportunity of giving the One whiskey brand that may have ticked all of these market an experiential spirit to savour and appeal to boxes is crafted by Piccadily Distilleries. The launch of the recent limited series was strategically timed not only to coincide with India’s biggest festival, Diwali, the demanding segment of connoisseurs. “We have an advantage as we have several batches of aged whisky still in cask at different points of maturation since 2012.” Siddarth revealed that their success with the Diwali release meant more limited editions were on the anvil. Journalist Rojita Tiwari believes that the limited edition is a vital marketing tool to engage clients. Rojita points out that “releasing small batches creates a hype and the sudden demand invariably outstrips the supply and it definitely sells out. This ‘scarcity’ makes the limited edition release an aspiration which is snapped up the next time around. Some releases are prestige projects that build the brand’s legacy.” Siddarth Sharma Liquid 65

spirit Kasturi Banerjee The scarcity of authentic Indian rum drove Kasturi Banerjee to establish Makazai three years ago in a challenging market overwhelmingly dominated by a legacy brand. Kasturi released 600 bottles under the Mesma (Portuguese for mesmerising) label late last year and sold out within a few weeks. “The objective of creating the Mesma label was to underscore how far Indian rum has come and where it can possibly go – this was a rare opportunity to show the highest standard of quality that could be produced,” Kasturi said. Interestingly, Kasturi didn’t deploy any campaign to promote Mesma. Instead, she ran just one cocktail promotion (very effective indeed) at a pub in Goa, the proceeds of which went to the Sea Turtle Society for according to Arth Shah of Third Eye Distilleries, which conservation of the Olive Ridley turtles that appear on was amongst the first off the blocks with a special the rum’s label. edition only for the awarded Mumbai restaurant, The story behind the creation of a limited edition matters almost as much as the spirit inside the bottle Bombay Canteen. Perry Road Peru, a ready-to-drink cocktail made with its flagship Stranger & Sons gin, was a tribute to a bustling street in Bandra teeming with peru (guava) vendors while the sherry cask aged gin was an ode to the forests of south India from where the honey and coffee bean were sourced as Releasing small batches creates a hype and the sudden demand invariably outstrips the supply and it definitely sells out. Rojita Tiwari 66 Liquid

spirit the key botanicals in this label. “The intent was to tell the story of India through the medium of these unique spirit expressions,” Arth said. Small batch production, he emphasised, allows the company to innovate and touch the upper limits of what they can make. Arth Shah Nikhil Merchant, writer, nods to the point, saying that limited releases are an opportunity to creatively experiment and tap a niche of discerning tipplers who are always keen to try different styles of spirits as well as collect collectors items. “This niche of tipplers blazes the trail for the larger market. It is an important branding exercise and allows the brand to retain and sustain a conversation around itself in what is a competitive and saturated market,” Nikhil commented. This focus on niche consumers at the premium end tends to create a scenario where only a handful are able to experience the expression and general retail consumers may not even be aware about the release and it sells out. Interestingly, if limited editions were targeted to the on-premise space, it would be potentially tasted by a larger consumer footprint which makes the present limited edition strategy feel like a paradox. And it certainly isn’t a given that limited editions are assured to succeed. So the not-so-limited slew of successes that new age spirit brands have notched up portends well for a busy calendar and a trend that is still to peak. L Nikhil Merchant Bhisham Mansukhani Liquid 67