Volume 2 Issue 4 Q4 2023 R 90 Indian Wine The Great Nashik Terroir Handia A Brew of Tradition Premium Waters Cause and Effect

contents what’s inside Water Premium Waters Tradition Warm the Winter 4 Liquid 10 Water 22 Chocolate A Cultural Connect Hot Chocolate Indulgences 14 Water 26 Tea Swiss Secret The Makaibari Experience 18 29

contents News Tradition Handia Wine The Great Nashik Terroir 32 Launch 46 Cocktail 58 Wine Be Different Be Bold Savoury Seduction Subtle Flavour of the Vine 38 Spirits 50 Bar 62 France 40 CAPture the Night An Evening at a Library Bar Ban des Vendanges 54 66 Liquid 5

advertisers 72 BLND_MAGAZINE AD - FINAL PRINT.pdf 1 04-01-2024 17:32:25 Volume 2 Issue 4 Q4 2023 R 90 Indian Wine The Great Nashik Terroir Handia A Brew of Tradition Premium Waters Cause and Effect Cover PRINT REV.indd 1 2-3 TLPND_Library Bar_Liquid Magazine Ad_336X225mm_01_cc REV.pdf 1 06-01-2024 19:48:45 Liquid 06-01-2024 11:20:41

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advertisers R Drink responsibly, dispose responsibly. ecycling of glass bottles has become unviable. Empty glass bottles are being dumped into already scarce landfill space - where they won’t decompose for a million years! Glass2Sand is an environment-friendly project that addresses this growing menace and creates a “zero waste” eco-system. Using an innovative “Made in India” technology, these bottles are crushed into silica-rich sand. Pledge your empty glass bottles to Glass2Sand. Call: +91 9810008289 | Mail: info@glass2sand.in glass2sand.in An initiative of the Liquid

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publisher’s Volume 2 Issue 4 Q4 2023 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Managing Editor: Radhika Tandon Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Contributing Editor: Bhisham Mansukhani Design: Sandeep Kaul Photographs: Hunesh Ajmani Cover: freepik.com Digital: Udit Singhal Contributors: Anita Rao Kashi Brita Dasgupta Lovleen Banga Nandita Kaushik Navni Kumar Nikhil Merchant Saket Joshi Uday Varma Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. note W e ring in the new year 2024 with renewed energy and fresh hope. The year gone by has been trailblazing for both the alcohol and non-alcohol segments of the vibrant beverage industry – encompassing imported and domestically crafted options – which maintained its upward trajectory. Changing tastes, preferences and lifestyles of diverse consumers, backed by disposable incomes growing ever northwards, have catalysed a wave of innovation. An influx of new start-up led brands launched an appealing array of drinks to take on the incumbent giants. These trends are being welcomed by global and local companies whose appetite for investment is being re-ignited, considering the potential in the sector still remains largely untapped. Recent disruptions have altered the economic landscape. The surge in consumption of alcoholic beverages during the lockdowns altered the fortunes of the industry – another billionaire has been minted. The justannounced relaxation in decades of prohibition bodes well. Perhaps the industry’s substantial contributions to the government treasury have been impossible to ignore, inspiring a recalibration in its stance towards this sector. At the same time, the non-alcoholic beverage sector has kept pace. Its growth has been fuelled by the spotlight on health conscious consumption, and the most tangible of all reasons, an easing of regulations. Liquid thanks everyone who has supported us as we navigated through an obstacle course to achieve so much in such a short time. Let’s raise a toast to the continued progression of the Indian beverage market. May the year upon us be filled with health, innovation and prosperity. Liquid 7

water Cause and Effect Premium Waters T he bottled water industry is one of India’s fastest growing sectors, having ballooned by 40-45% in filtration systems, and even boiling tap water were the last five years alone. India is the world’s 12th largest but nowadays water testing sometimes reveals (by value) consumer of bottled water, according to a extreme pollutants even in RO-filtered municipal recent UN report. So, how did we get here? water. Consumers have had no choice but to turn to India now holds the unfortunate distinction of being once standard methods to make tap water potable, bottled water. home to 14 of the most polluted cities on the planet. Rising This has caused large swathes of India’s groundwater and lacunas in maintenance and infrastructure are – the main source of drinking water – to be infected related factors. The growth in tourism, domestic and with both pathogens and chemicals. A BMC Public international, further pushes up demand. Today, there Health Journal study estimated that each year water- are hundreds of brands of water available, roughly borne diseases affect nearly 38 million Indians and 80% of which are small and local manufacturers, 73 million working days are lost. RO systems, home but the industry is controlled by large corporations 10 Liquid urbanization, increased industrial output

water such as Parle (Bisleri), PepsiCo (Aquafina), Coca Cola (Kinley) and Tata (Himalayan). Water is redefined, as something to be inhaled and appreciated much like wine. Having to pay for bottled water has filtered into India’s psyche as a necessity. But there’s a booming subindustry that is not borne of need – that of luxury mineral water. Not all packaged water is created equally. Mineral and bottled water are two different beasts, though the terms are often and incorrectly interchanged. Increasing health consciousness (especially postpandemic), and rising awareness and globalization of the Indian consumer are major forces behind the Mineral water, unlike regular bottled water, does not growth of mineral waters. For consumers already undergo chemical processing. It is obtained by bottling accustomed to buying bottled water, it is not such mineral-rich waters from pristine natural sources. a leap. Higher disposable incomes, health and As the name suggests, it contains high quantities ecological concerns, and a market flooded with fake of essential minerals like magnesium, calcium and mass-produced bottles on one hand, with improved sodium that are a good source of nutrients and can prices, choices and better distribution channels on the support bone and digestive health, and reduce blood other, lead consumers to consider more exclusive, and pressure. It is sometimes called spring water because expensive, options. Both in cost and consciousness, it is drawn from natural springs. Mineral water is mineral water is almost a logical step-up from ordinary bottled water. be aerated with carbon dioxide to create ‘sparkling’ Ever since a 2021 magazine article revealed that water. Recent evidence suggests that carbonated cricket icon Virat Kohli only drinks Evian spring water mineral water can benefit heart health and improve from France, high-end, 100% natural mineral and cholesterol levels. Mineral waters may also be created sparkling waters have captured public imagination. artificially by adding salts to distilled water. International brands have made their way onto shelves Photo: glensummitspringwater.com Photo: Ashley Waldron/City of Englewood Utilities naturally carbonated to different degrees, but may Spring water source Water tasting competition Liquid 11

water in upmarket grocery stores, while home-grown options have proliferated. The pioneer was Dadi Balsara, who set up a natural mineral water plant in Dhaula Kuan, Himachal Pradesh and launched the Himalayan brand back in 1991. The Flavoured mineral water has gained popularity as a healthy alternative to sugary soft drinks. brand was bought by the Tata Group in 2001. Mulshi Springs, sourced from a natural spring in the Sahyadri range by Naveen Luthra, was the first to use glass and packaging. It boasts of recycling more PET than bottles in 2008. Another early entrant was Veen, a it produces. Responsible Whatr, from a source in Finnish company owned by Aman Gupta that initially Himachal Pradesh, launched in recyclable aluminium bottled from a source in the Nilgiris and then brought cans and recently announced its milestone of a million pure Himalayan water from Bhutan. Kelzai offers cans sold. India’s ‘first volcanic water’, also from a source in the Sahyadris. With growth comes innovation. Flavoured mineral water has gained popularity as a healthy alternative Vadodara-based Evocus, India’s first ‘black water’, is to sugary soft drinks. Catch has a range of low-calorie a pH-balanced alkaline water that gets its dramatic sparkling waters with natural fruit flavours such as colouring from more than 70 trace minerals. Nu by blackberry and peach, while Wild Water offers four Clear Premium Water has sourced water from the flavours of water-based, preservative-free Vitamin Himalayas and positions itself as ‘tailored to the Drinks. ‘Blending waters’ such as BLND launched discerning tastes of the elite consumer’. Four-year- by Indian start-up Fultariya Beverages offer special old Laangza Water, from an aquifer in the Himalayan waters crafted as mixes for whisky, single malt, gin Sivalik range, plays up its purity as an ideal drink for and vodka. BLND waters use the ‘art of blending’ to new mothers and infants. enhance the balance and flavours of the spirits. Some brands appeal to the eco-friendly buyer. Behram The Indian market has huge potential for growth. Per Mehta’s Aava has won international awards for taste capita consumption of bottled water currently stands 12 Liquid

water at only five litres/year, well below the global average water sommeliers (a first in India), are growing around of 24 litres/year. The brands are alive to this. In 2023, the industry. Fine waters are added to the mix at high- Bisleri introduced a sparkling version of its premium end tables to elevate the entire dining experience. Himalayan spring water line Vedica, which ‘combines Water is being redefined, as something to be inhaled effervescence with a perfectly balanced mineral and appreciated much like wine, with different grades composition’. Himalayan embraced the direct-to- of taste, quality and refinement. consumer approach by developing their own online platforms or partnering with delivery apps. Vedica It’s a story riddled with contradictions. While many Sparkling is available through the Bisleri@Doorstep continue to struggle for access to safe drinking water, App. Veen’s focus is on luxury hotels and restaurants. premium waters have carved a niche in the luxury Exotic, far-away sources and the promise of purity and health create a certain mystique around highend mineral waters. Practical considerations like transportation and bespoke packaging also make sector. The Indian bottled water market was valued at over $22 billion by 2023, with a projected annual growth of 6%. Clearly, this story is just getting started. Irony, or simple cause and effect? Perhaps, it’s a little them many times costlier than regular bottled water. of both. L Institutes like the Fine Water Academy that certifies Radhika Tandon Liquid 13

water Water A Cultural Connect W ater has an enormous connect with humanity – ecological, social, economic, cultural and Archaeologists have confirmed the importance of psychological. This undisputed source of power in Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa unearthed wells and and wealth has been a catalyst for countless global step wells which were a source of fresh drinking water. friendships and geopolitical wars. Many vessels have also been found, such as wide- Culturally, water connects the human timeline from water as a beverage. Excavations and discoveries mouth ceramic containers, jugs with handles, storage jars with elongated spouts, and cup-like vessels in ancient civilisations to the modern day. It is intertwined terracotta and metal. These give invaluable insights with spirituality, divinity, purification, health and about the consumption of water dating back at least emotions and has been reflected in art, theatre, the to the Indus Valley civilisation. Perforated vessels for performing arts and literature. brewing and straining that were used to prepare sura 14 Liquid

Photo: Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya Photo: Sandeep Kaul water Harappan well, Dholavira – a rice and barley-based alcoholic drink – were also found. Harappan storage jar were earmarked only for the Emperor. Water (or lack of it) was the reason that the capital city of Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned by Mughal Emperor Akbar between 1571-1585. Photo: Vssun Water will always be vital to human existence, regardless of how our connect to it changes. In ancient Indian vedic scriptures, water is seen as a divine and spiritual drink. The holy waters of rivers like the Ganga are believed to wash away evils, sins and illnesses, and allow people to attain moksha (salvation). Gangajal (holy water from the Ganga) travels the world to be consumed by Hindus for purification of mind, body and soul and by priests for blessing people, places and objects during religious ceremonies. In 1902, Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II of Jaipur carried this sacred water in two large silver urns when he travelled to England for the coronation of King Edward VII, to keep him healthy and safe. My grandmother’s generation would carry water when visiting the homes of their married daughters for a different reason – so as not to be a burden on them. The fabled water source of ‘Chasme Shahi’ in Srinagar is an example of a Royal Spring whose health benefits Silver urn of Maharaja of Jaipur Liquid 15

Photo: Gasteiner Mineralwasser water Water is a universal symbol of hospitality – in many cultures, guests are served water on arrival. Offering drinking water at a pyau (water kiosk) is considered a noble act of kindness. A few sips of water are often Photo: sharbori.org Spring water, Austrian Alps used to break a religious fast. Water also assumes a part in celebrations. Rose-infused water is often sprinkled alongside petal showers to welcome guests in traditional ceremonies. The Unity Water Ceremony is popular in the West – a new couple pours water from two separate glasses into a pitcher at the same time on their wedding day, as a symbol of their unity. The water is usually carried back to the couple’s new home and used to water the greens. Water is an important element of the human diet, crucial to maintaining overall health and well-being. Beyond mere hydration, it is also the canvas which shapes the flavour, texture, and cultural identity of so many drinks, weaving a narrative of traditions that have withstood the test of time. 16 Liquid Chasme Shahi, Srinagar

Photo: Daderot water extraction of flavours from tea leaves, making it an essential factor in the quality of tea. Water is a universal symbol of hospitality – in many cultures, guests are served water on arrival. It has been scientifically proven that water, when added to alcohol, tea or coffee, frees up the aroma molecules faster, enhancing their fragrance and flavours and making the drink more enjoyable for the consumer. Traditional processes in breweries Water will always be vital to human existence, regardless of how our connect to it changes. Perhaps, the fact that water is so unassuming and integral to our lives is the reason that we forget to value it. We need to protect this all-important resource from our highly polluting ways of life and urbanisation. Water is abundant, and yet under threat. There is no substitute for water – at least so far! L Ritu Singhal Photo: Blind Photography Rosewater sprinkler rely heavily on water’s transformative properties. The mineral content of water can impact enzymatic reactions, yeast activity, and the overall fermentation process. For example, Belgian breweries credit their region’s mineral-rich waters for the distinctive taste of their Trappist ales. Similarly, the crystal-clear springs of the Austrian Alps play their part in producing schnapps, a fruit brandy. A USP of the new age gins from Estonia is that they are made from the pure fresh waters of the region’s bogs. The temperature, quality, and mineral composition of water affects the Unity Water Ceremony Liquid 17

Photo: rolandsteffen.com water Swiss Secret Valser Water V als is a tiny village in the canton of Graubunden, in southeastern Switzerland, filled with pretty half- timbered houses, distinct for their stone-tile rooftops made of Vals quartzite, the beautiful green-grey stone Vals is iconic for one reason: it is one of the few places with a 30°C thermal source, a rare phenomenon which springs straight from the heart of the Alps. found in the area. Located at an altitude of 1,250 Vals’ thermal springs and their benefits have been metres, this mountain village is postcard perfect. known for centuries, the water consumed for its Surrounded by the Swiss Alps, it skirts the Vals valley enormous medicinal properties. Bottled as Valser (a through which the electric-blue Valser Rhine flows. brand owned by Coca-Cola since 2002), the calcium- 18 Liquid

water The water is tingly, a bit salty and leaves a distinctly earthy and metallic taste in the mouth. It serves to stimulate the senses! rich mineral water is a Swiss secret and a bottle can provide half the daily requirement of calcium. According to legend, mineral water from a spring named St Petersquelle in Vals is believed to have nourished the Romans since ancient times, though it was only in 1622 that it finds written mention. St Petersquelle The bottling of Valser water began about six decades ago when two entrepreneurs rediscovered the impressive mineral properties of the St Petersquelle spring. Later, a second source called St Paulsquelle was discovered, about 1,815 metres above Vals. Together, the two springs are the mainstay of the Valser Photo: abroadathome.com At the core of the water’s goodness is its journey. It travels for several years from its source through the mountains before it surfaces, carrying with it the minerals contained within the rocks, which are supposedly both revitalising and relaxing for the body. It is known to contain ‘balanced natural mineralisation’, primarily calcium and magnesium. Naturally pure and entirely untreated, it is said to provide the body with ‘vital elements without putting any strain on it’. Public fountain in Vals Liquid 19

Photo: Fernanado Guerra water Vals is iconic for one reason: it is one of the few places with a 30°C thermal source. both outdoor and indoor, which are maintained at a temperature range of 30-36°C. Soaking in the mineralrich water is incredibly relaxing. The outdoor pools offer spectacular views of the snow-clad mountains in winter and lush slopes of meadows carpeted with alpine flowers in the spring and summer. The baths are accessed by a series of passages along which pipes bring in the water from the mountains. It is an experience to cup one’s hands to collect from one of many trickles and taste the water. It is tingly, a bit salty and leaves a distinctly earthy and metallic taste in the mouth. But it certainly serves to stimulate the senses! It feels apt that Vals literally bottles this feeling and sends it all over the world. L brand. At the plant, an experience centre guides visitors through the history and science behind the water. The brand claims it is ‘low in sodium and nitratefree’ and that it is ‘recommended by doctors and nutritionists as a valuable source of fluid and calcium’. It also comes with a stamp of goodness from Swiss Climate, a renowned consulting company in CO2 management, sustainability, climate protection projects and energy, making it the first climate-neutral mineral water in Switzerland. Vals has taken another step towards sustainability with bottles made from 100% recycled materials. Vals’ springs are known for both their external and internal goodness, a part of which can be experienced at the 7132 Therme, an architectural masterpiece. Inside is a series of sprawling baths that take inspiration from the green mountain quartz and appear like jewelled rooms, with the shimmering water throwing sparkling shadows. This is the same stone through which the water flows and picks up essential minerals. The heated water collects in several different pools, 20 Liquid Anita Rao Kashi is a Bangalore-based journalist and writer who enjoys the unexpectedness of travel and the adventure of tasting new food and drink. Photo: Coca-Cola Schweiz 7132 Therme Spa

tradition W inter opens the door for so many warm beverages to walk in like comforting blankets that slay the cold. It’s a time to get cozy, surrounded by fireplaces, friends, and family. Globally and in India, Photo: Whisk Affair Warm the Winter some drinks are best had in the cold season. Take your pick from our list of some of these exotic yet traditional ones. Let’s first look at some drinks close to home… BADAM KESAR MILK A traditional Indian Ayurvedic drink made using almond paste, milk and sugar, its distinct flavour comes from saffron strands and cardamom powder. Add jaggery instead of sugar to make it even healthier. This glutenfree, vegetarian drink is high protein and heavy on nutrition. Garnished with rose petals, chopped pistachios and saffron, it makes for an inviting drink. Badam kesar milk is best had before bedtime to enjoy a restful sleep. The compounds present in saffron 22 Liquid Badam Kesar Milk

tradition have natural sedative properties that are believed to stimulate serotonin production, a neurotransmitter The real fun is in preparing these drinks yourself. Photo: Chloe Ting that regulates mood and sleep. HONEY TULSI GINGER TEA This tea with a twist keeps away the winter blues. Each of the three ingredients in this tea are heavyweights – honey traps with its sweetness while ginger and tulsi ensure an instant pick-me-up. Not to mention its antioxidant and digestive properties. Photo: Chloe Ting Bypass the packaged options and make this elixir fresh – allow a long, slow brewing of tea leaves along with grated ginger and tulsi leaves, and pepper or turmeric if desired. Add a dash of honey and you are all set for this delicate brew in front of your heater. Avoid adding milk to retain natural benefits and its engaging aroma. Turmeric Latte TURMERIC LATTE This is an exotic drink that defies all known combinations. While its relationship to the word latte is nebulous as no coffee is involved, being a milk-based frothy drink possibly justifies the title. The trick is to add a bevy of spices – turmeric of course, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, pepper, nutmeg, ashwagandha – all ground to maximize the flavour and boiled in hot water. Add milk, sugar or maple syrup and a hint of vanilla essence. Whisk till a heavy froth is formed. Garnish with rose petals and serve in your favourite cup for a warm, rich and intense drink. Turmeric latte has immense nutritional properties – it’s an anti-inflammatory detoxifier, aids digestion, calms stress and boosts immunity. This drink is also great as a sleep-time ritual. Soothing and warm, it hits just the right spot to lull you into a sleepy daze. Honey Tulsi Ginger Tea Liquid 23

Photo: cocktailwave.com tradition Nothing beats the scent of a simmering pot of delicious, spiced apple cider when walking in from the cold. with his special coffee to relocate to the US to serve up his perfect ‘Irish coffees’. Thus was born this now all-time classic. Irish Coffee And now the global beverages – some are a mainstay of Christmas but can be enjoyed through winter. Photo: Little Sunny Kitchen IRISH COFFEE This drink has an interesting story. In 1943, a horrific storm forced a Pan Am flight bound for New York to return to Limerick county, Ireland. A local chef, Joe Sheridan, provided food and drinks to the stranded passengers, adding some high-quality Irish whiskey to the coffees for good measure. Joe Sheridan was later persuaded by a travel journalist who fell in love Photo: Minimalist Baker The recipe is simple – make strong coffee, pour into a pre-heated cup with brown sugar, add a slug of Irish Whiskey and top with cream. The whiskey must be Irish and remember, the cream has to have just the right consistency – thick enough to sit on top but thin Spiced Apple Cider enough to sip coffee through it. Do not use whipped cream. Peppermint Hot Cocoa 24 Liquid PEPPERMINT HOT COCOA Another drink that is pure indulgence, this rich beverage has the ideal ratio of chocolate to peppermint – 5 ounces of prepared hot cocoa to 1

tradition ounce of peppermint schnapps. Toast marshmallows EGGNOG over a cooking range or with a butane torch to garnish Finally, no Christmas would be complete without the the drink and you are good to go. ubiquitous eggnog, a drink that originated in medieval This drink is reminiscent of those little towns where the community inaugurates the town’s Christmas tree bolstered by their peppermint hot cocoa. Ideally had post-dinner, beside a campfire amidst snow; nothing like a chill to bring the heat of the drink alive. Britain as ‘posset’, a comforting healer that mixed hot milk with wine or ale and spices. In the 13th century, some monks added whipped eggs and figs – but the scarcity of expensive ingredients like eggs and sherry made this proto-eggnog a luxury reserved for the elite. Here is a simple recipe: make the eggnog base by SPICED APPLE CIDER Another Christmas favourite, nothing beats the scent of a simmering pot of delicious, spiced apple cider when walking in from the cold. Mulled or spiced cider is either sweet or hard (with alcohol) apple cider, heated with spices and citrus to infuse flavour. The typical spices thrown in include cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Some stylish variants are star anise and beating egg yolks with sugar until light and fluffy. Then slowly whisk in hot milk that’s been infused with cloves, nutmeg, vanilla extract and cinnamon. Warm on the stovetop until it thickens and resembles a custard. Spike with bourbon or rum for the adults and top with freshly-grated nutmeg and cinnamon sticks. A great tip? Prepare the mixture (minus the alcohol) a day in advance so the spices infuse completely into Photo: Kale Junkie the eggnog. Be warned, this drink is not easy to make and inspires strong reactions – some hate it and some love it. Makes you almost wish that winter stayed a little longer, right? The real fun is in preparing these drinks yourself. So, skip the packaged look-alikes, roll up your sleeves and bowl guests over with your warm winter drinks. An added benefit? Your home will be filled with delightful spicy aromas that will linger as long as the winter. L Nandita Kaushik is a creative writer, content writer, blogger and poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Eggnog orange slices. When you invite people over the holiday get-together, turn the slow cooker to the ‘keep warm’ setting and set a ladle and cups or mugs next to the pot, so guests can serve themselves. Liquid 25

chocolate Hot Chocolate Indulgences I t’s the most wonderful time of the year. Come winter and we’re all craving something warm, sweet and beverage in the early 16th century and brought it back delicious. When it’s a bit frosty outside, nothing hits sugar and milk. This evolution led to hot chocolate the spot like an indulgent mug of hot chocolate. Today, becoming a beloved beverage in European cultures the drink has countless versions made with cream, and beyond. alcohol, Nutella, peanut butter, and a multitude of We have rounded up five favourite ‘traditional’ variants spices. to Europe, where it underwent a transformation with from across the globe. Get experimenting! However, the roots of hot chocolate are far from the COLOMBIAN HOT CHOCOLATE familiar, contemporary rendition of cocoa powder and It is a common practice in Colombia to throw pieces milk that many of us grew up with. Hot chocolate is of soft white cheese into their hot chocolate. It is believed to have originated in Mesoamerica (covering parts of Mexico and Central America today) where the Aztecs and Mayans consumed a frothy, bitter beverage made from roasted cacao beans, water, chili peppers and spices. The Aztecs created Xocolātl, a precursor to modern hot chocolate. Spanish explorer Hernán Cortés discovered the indigenous cacao 26 Liquid When it’s a bit frosty outside, nothing hits the spot like an indulgent mug of hot chocolate.

chocolate Photo: fatgirlhedonist.com This one might sound a little outlandish at first but don’t trash it before you try it. Think of sweet and salty flavours that combine to create some of your favourite dishes – caramel popcorn, bacon with maple syrup, pineapple pizza. You get the drift. HUNGARIAN HOT CHOCOLATE The Hungarians use a bar of chocolate to create this versatile drink (above 66% cacao). However, just like the Colombians, they too have a surprise ingredient which will both shock and please your palate – paprika. Colombian Hot Chocolate Photo: vanillagarlic.com made with an unsweetened chocolate bar, cinnamon, cloves, water, Colombian cheese, and sugar (to taste). Want to try this unique beverage for yourself? Whisk together all the ingredients (except the cheese) over a medium flame until the chocolate is completely melted and becomes a bit frothy. Now cut up the cheese and toss it in the cup, pour the liquid over it and dig in with a spoon. As the cheese melts, it tastes even better with the delicious chocolate liquid. Photo: Nunu Chocolates Bring one cup of milk to a boil along with six cloves and a pinch of Hungarian hot paprika. Once it gets frothy, add 70 grams chopped chocolate, stir to perfection, and enjoy a sweet and spicy cup of thick hot chocolate. Viennese Hot Chocolate VIENNESE HOT CHOCOLATE From the city of delicious pastries and Sacher-Torte comes a hot chocolate with yet another twist. Called Wiener Schokolade or Heibe Schokolade, this one is made with chocolate, milk and egg yolk. Why egg, you may wonder. If you have travelled to southeast Asia, you will have come across egg yolk in many dishes including cream buns, ice cream and coffee. The egg yolk adds a velvety consistency to the hot beverage and gives it a creamy mouthfeel. Hungarian Hot Chocolate Start by heating together 1¼ cup milk with 170 grams chopped semi-sweet chocolate in a saucepan. Stir Liquid 27

chocolate frequently and add sugar to taste. Take it off the heat once it’s smooth. Let it cool slightly, then whisk two tablespoons of the mixture with the egg yolk (if you add the egg to the full mixture, it will get cooked). Then stir into the rest of the hot chocolate and let it simmer over . Hot chocolate is believed to have originated in Mesoamerica (covering parts of Mexico and Central America). low heat. You can also spike it with rum and garnish with whipped cream and powdered cinnamon. This recipe serves two. Pour and enjoy! IRISH HOT CHOCOLATE An alcoholic makeover for a classic – this one packs a punch. There are different variations of the recipe, but we have chosen one which uses both cocoa and solid chocolate, and two types of alcohol. Heat your milk over a medium flame and add in cocoa, sugar, salt and chopped chocolate and whisk it all together. Once it’s smooth, take it off the heat. Add a shot of whiskey and a shot of Irish cream liqueur and mix with a spoon. Top it up with cream and sprinkles. Then, start drinking. We hope you will conquer each of these heartwarming recipes while the days are still chilly. Which one will you start with first? L American Hot Chocolate Photo: The Busy Baker Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach). AMERICAN HOT CHOCOLATE/ HOT COCOA This is the version we’re probably most familiar with. It’s made with five main ingredients: milk, water, sugar, salt and cocoa powder. It can be whipped up in minutes and will transport you right back to your childhood. The method is simple – combine the dry ingredients (two table spoons cocoa, one-two tea spoon sugar, pinch of salt) into a saucepan, pour boiling water over it and whisk till smooth. Then add a cup of milk and keep stirring till it gets frothy. Add a dash of vanilla extract to take it to the next level. Some also throw in a sprinkle of chocolate chips or a marshmallow to make it extra rich and chocolate-y. 28 Liquid Irish Hot Chocolate

tea The Makaibari Experience A s a proud, self-proclaimed tea adherent, visiting the Makaibari tea estate in West Bengal was a the estate owners in partnership with the plantation treat. Situated on the rolling hills surrounding Darjeeling on the land for generations and have an innate and and its neighbouring town Kurseong, Makaibari is one profound knowledge of the terrain and its flora and of the finest producers of Darjeeling teas. fauna. The synchronicity of the villagers and the Growing up in a Bengali household, tea was paramount in our lives. Not for us the over-boiled, milky, sweet tea made with CTC (‘crush, tear and curl’ black teas) which is commonplace all over India. Most Bengalis view themselves as tea enthusiasts and prefer their tea leaves steeped in hot water for no more than three minutes and taken without milk. workers. The latter are village folk who have lived owners is amazing – both consider it a privilege to nurture this plantation. They view it not only as their livelihood but also as something magical and divine that they are fortunate enough to take care of. They believe that the plants are nurtured by the forest and this brings the distinct flavour to the tea. The estate practices permaculture, where the tea bushes co- It is fascinating how most Indians consider their own versions of tea sacred. No wonder the best teas in the world are cultivated in India! The Makaibari plantations are located amidst 550 acres of lush forest. It is not an easy task to cultivate Darjeeling First Flush refers to the best leaves harvested during the first season of leaf-picking. tea here, yet the near-impossible is achieved by the Liquid 29

tea exist alongside local trees and plants as well as the animals of the forest. The estate was founded and owned by the Banerjee family for over a hundred years. Rajah Banerjee, who was born on the estate, recently gave up his last shares to its workers’ welfare committee. In 2014, the company was sold to the Luxmi Group owned by the Chatterjees. An enthusiastic manager gave us a thorough tour of the oldest tea factory in the world. It balances modern craft-driven methodology with using old machinery and age-old practices followed by the workers from the local community. We took a guided tour of the plantation through lovely verdant hills and learnt more about the landscape, villages and tea plants, and interacted with some plantation workers. Understanding the labour-intensive and careful practices made us appreciate what goes into our daily cup of comfort. are younger, more tender and packed with nutrients and antioxidants, providing this tea with its unique aroma and distinct light colour. Its flavour profile is We rounded off our tour with a sampling of some of more delicate compared to the other flushes. Since the famed Makaibari teas. The highest grade is the harvesting of tea leaves ceases during winter, the first Darjeeling First Flush, which refers to the best leaves flush is highly anticipated and in great demand among harvested during the first season of leaf-picking, connoisseurs, making it the most expensive tea to be between late winter and early spring. The leaves sold at auctions. 30 Liquid

tea It is now quite common to see people sipping a cup of Darjeeling tea rather than a mug of coffee in New York. Oolong. For Oolong tea, the leaves are plucked and allowed to wither and then fermented before drying. Makaibari tea is available worldwide through their website. Apart from the traditional blends, a plethora The second flush is harvested during the months of June and July. This tea is more vibrant in colour and has a more robust flavour as it grows in sunlight and warmth. Its amber colour makes it attractive. While the first flush has an astringent taste, the second flush has a sweetish aftertaste. It commands its own fan following. The third flush, or Autumn flush, is harvested in October and November. No matter the flush, Makaibari Darjeeling tea is known the world over for its complex bouquet and its invigorating taste. of variations and flavours are available. A large part of the produce is sold at the tea auction in Kolkata and then exported. The estate goes from strength to strength under the aegis of the current owner Rudra Chatterjee who said, “The world over, people are beginning to understand the value of tea as a health drink. It is now quite common to see people sipping a cup of Darjeeling tea rather than a mug of coffee in New York.” Reeling with all this knowledge, we bid adieu to the fascinating world of Makaibari. Not only did we gather a deeper understanding of the tea leaf journey, but The estate now also produces and sells green tea, in also an appreciation for the efforts of the people who keeping with modern demands. Green tea leaves are lovingly nurture and produce this fine tea. L not allowed to be oxidised so remain unfermented, and are high in antioxidants. Between black and green tea, there is yet another type of tea produced called Brita Dasgupta’s love for reading, writing and travel have led her to chronicle her experiences on travel, history, food and beverages for the last two decades. Liquid 31

news Masterclasses by Cellar 33 between viticulture and vinification, an artisanal approach to vineyard management that avoids use of mechanization (to the extent of using horses in the vineyard), and deeper attention to each bottle. A bottle at Gaston Revolte is touched by hand at least 12 times. Cellar 33, a wine import-export and marketing agency The masterclass ‘Vines in the Forest’ by Lydia and Claude Bourguignon took us through their fascinating journey from being microbiologists and soil consultants to wineries across four continents, to their agricultural project in Cahors, southern France, focused on harmonizing their vineyards with the ecosystem. Claude shared insight on sustaining the health of soils. “An overuse of chemicals and treatments dramatically reduces the soil’s capacity to nurture vines so that roots go no deeper than the top soil, leading to mediocre wine in the bottle,” Bourguignon said. based in Bordeaux, showcased the 21 producers from six countries in their portfolio at their pavilion during the recently concluded Prowine Mumbai, their third trade show in India in two years. Founders Amrita Singh DipWSET, a Master of Wine candidate and Sommelier Mattia Antonio Cianca, a Master Sommelier Tastin’ France in India contender, led the delegation of eight producers and six international sommeliers. Preceding the exhibition, some of the producers led the privately organised Cellar 33 Masterclasses Series at the JW Marriott Sahar. The masterclasses offered up fascinating insights into practices employed by historic and traditional wine-growing families that make some sought-after wines. Michele Ciani, owner of Aquila del Torre from Friuli’s eastern hills in northern Italy, kicked off the series by shedding light on ‘The Secret to Exceptional Wines’. Presenting the story of his 30-decade-old organic wine family estate, Michele emphasized the importance of organic viticulture and natural fermentation through indigenous yeasts, that has enabled the Ciani family to turn out a distinctly fresh style of local grape Fruilano and a herbaceous style of Sauvignon Blanc which thrives in Friuli’s cool terroir. Nicolas Revolte, owner of Champagne Gaston Revolte, made a case for ‘The Irresistible Rise of Grower Champagne’. He highlighted some key advantages of this important niche: a close connection 32 Liquid The seventh edition of Tastin’ France held in November 2023 marked a milestone for French wine in India. In the previous year, the export of French wine to India increased by 23% in volume and a remarkable 100% by value. Tastin’ France was organized by Business France under the aegis of the French Ministry of Agriculture and Food Sovereignty and the French Embassy in India that has also launched the international campaign ‘Make It Iconic, Choose France’. Trade professionals were invited to a special expo at the Main Hall of the Embassy in New Delhi, which was followed by participation at a French Pavilion at ProWine Mumbai.

news This edition saw the largest delegation so far; 21 producers and professionals from the French wine and spirits industry showcased more than 200 labels of wines and spirits that represented several French regions – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Languedoc Roussillon, Loire Valley, Provence, Rhône valley and South West. The delegation was definitely upbeat based on success stories from the past editions, and interacted with visitors to discuss opportunities and taste the wines. Notable wines were Dumnacus Vignerons Coteaux du Layon 2022, Champagne Jeeper Blanc de Noirs, Chateau La France 2016 and Same River Twice Vin de France Blanc 2022. Despite very high tariff barriers, French vintners are increasingly looking to India as a major market. The just-arrived Ambassador of France to India, Thierry Mathou said, “France’s savoir-faire is acknowledged across the world. Our continuous efforts to promote French producers of wines, champagnes and spirits in India are bearing fruit, and I thank the Indian importers and distributors for their support to further strengthen the bonds between France and India.” Tastin’ France is held each year in 50 countries. Business France’s Fabienne Le Goc referred to ‘long and complicated’ issues that remain on logistics and tariffs, while reiterating France’s keen interest in the Indian market based on the increasing demand. “Through Tastin’ France, we reinforce our efforts to develop the business in India. We have to be here to help our producers to ‘feel’ the pulse of the market.” ECTA), that came into effect in December 2022, as well as a valuable long-standing bilateral relationship. The South Australian Minister for Trade and Investment, Nick Champion MP, led a delegation to Mumbai in November 2023. Supported by the State for the second year running, ten South Australian wineries presented at ProWine Mumbai. A masterclass on the region’s wines was conducted and inductions were made into the South Australian Wine Ambassadors Club. The Wine Export Recovery and Expansion Program is allowing stakeholders in both India and Australia to build strong relationships. This program has leveraged the foundation that was laid by Group Ritu with the South Australian Government since 2016. South Australia’s India Focus Benefitting from these wine interventions, South South Australia has sharpened its focus on the market to premium wine, the tariff concessions will further for wine in India. The initiatives of the Malinauskas enhance their appeal and support the growth of wine Labour Government come on the heels of the landmark exports to India. Champion said, “We will be pulling reduction in tariffs on wine under the Australia-India every lever at our disposal to ensure South Australia is Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement (AI- front of mind when the Indian consumer chooses wine.” Australian wineries Wirra Wirra from McLaren Vale and Metala from Langhorne Creek have been successful in adding to the South Australian wine exports that are valued at AUD 9.5 million annually and are almost 85% of the total Australian exports to India. It is expected that as the Indian consumer trades up Liquid 33

news Indian Wine Vintage 2023 The newly formed Wine Growers Association of India Source labels, Fratelli and Reveilo’s signature collections. Two masterclasses were hosted by the visiting Peter Csizmadia Honigh, author of the award-winning The Wines of India. Peter handpicked wines from across the Indian estates that were presented and tasted at the masterclasses. (WineGAI) held its maiden 2023 vintage preview for the hospitality trade and media at the Taj Landsend in Mumbai. It brought together India’s biggest wine companies as well as boutique wineries on a single platform to showcase Indian wine. The objective of the event, according to WineGAI, was ‘to highlight the quality and diversity of Indian wine as part of a larger thrust to promote Indian wine as a collective community’. Coca-Cola Gets Boozy WineGAI represents some of the major Indian wineries including Sula, Grover, Fratelli, Good Drop, and Reveilo and is focused on ‘fostering the sustainable development of the Indian wine industry in the facets of technical, marketing, policy advocacy, and social responsibility’. Goa and parts of Maharashtra. Made from a mix of Coca-Cola India has made its first venture into the Indian alcohol space with Lemon-Dou, an alcoholic ready-to-drink beverage which is being pilot tested in shochu (a distilled liquor) and lime, Lemon-Dou was the first alcohol beverage from Coca-Cola’s international portfolio that launched in Japan in 2018, as part of the brand’s repositioning as a ‘total beverages company’. This first ever vintage preview, according to WineGAI Secretary Ashwin Rodrigues, is one of the many initiatives that WineGAI has organised, including hosting delegation visits from Australia and Chile as well as workshops pertaining to regulations. “It is important for the wine industry to come together on a single platform to showcase to the hospitality industry how far Indian wine has come and that the producers are keen to work together.” As India’s largest soft drinks company, Coca-Cola’s Indian portfolio includes soft drinks Coke, Sprite, Thums Up, Fanta, Limca, Maaza and Minute Maid Juices, as well as Kinley water, Honest tea, and Costa Coffee and Georgia coffee. The company has stated that it plans a gradual expansion into the heavily regulated alcohol sector. “We are committed to offering people more of the drink choices they want across a range of Next year, it is likely that a multi-city roadshow will categories. We take the responsibilities that come with include Pune, Delhi, Kolkata and Bengaluru and some our products in the alcohol ready-to-drink space very tier two cities like Lucknow. The tasting notably featured seriously as we grow our brands in a responsible and Grover’s latest range of Signet wines, Sula’s Rasa and sustainable way.” 34 Liquid

news The company has emphasised that Lemon-Dou in India is being prepared and distributed in dedicated facilities separate from those producing non-alcoholic beverages. The beverage has been priced at T230 for a 250ml can for the test run. Coca-Cola has also announced a collaboration with Pernod Ricard to launch a pre-mixed cocktail made with Absolut vodka and Sprite, that will be launched in the UK, Netherlands, Spain and Germany in 2024. Reishi Sour with shiitake cordial and reishi dust; Oakwood Old Fashioned that added shiitake liqueur to the classic whiskey cocktail; and Piglet Negroni, another gin cocktail featuring porcini-infused gin and mushroom caviar. “Working with mushrooms is a challenge. We use sous vide, infusion and seeping methods to extract the delicate, complex mushroom flavours and have tried to understand the profile of each mushroom in order to know which spirits to pair it with,” Mekal explained. All-Mushroom Mondial du Cocktail Menu Rhum Paris 2024 The inaugural edition of World of Rum will be held at the Palais Brongniart in Paris from 13-15 February 2024. This three-day event is slated to be a first of its kind for the global rum eco-system, affording an opportunity for buyers and stakeholders from over 20 countries around the world to meet and discuss the major challenges and opportunities that will shape the future of this industry. Perch Wine and Coffee Bar has introduced an allmushroom cocktail menu. The curated menu features seven cocktails that incorporate nine different types of mushrooms including porcini, shiitake, king oysters and reishi. The cocktails were collectively created by Perch bartender Namrata Mekal, the bar’s junior sommelier The event will bring together diverse stakeholders from producers, distributors, manufacturers, harvesters and international buyers to influencers, manufacturers of bottles, casks, yeast, packaging, etc. Exceptional artisanal rums, agricultural rums, arranged rums, amber rums, white rums, old rums and many more will Sam Ali Ahmed and Hemali Bendre, brand developer be showcased. at Diageo. The conference programme will hinge around four This was Perch’s first attempt at creating a mushroom themes: Public Affairs, Business, Innovation and cocktail menu which, Mekal said, was about putting the Education. More than 35 leading speakers and focus on “an interesting yet underrated ingredient that professionals from the wines and spirits industry is challenging to work with due to volatile flavours, but will share their knowledge and success stories. brings the umami flavour dimension to cocktails”. The Internationally renowned bartenders will highlight Perch team extensively researched the ingredient as the evolutions in mixology, which are contributing to the theme for their autumn food menu, and subsequently development of rum, especially in Asian countries. mushroom-themed cocktail and coffee menus were also curated. Host country France is emerging as a pioneer in the rum industry with new distilleries in the heart of The cocktails feature gin, whisky, tequila and wine. Paris. In recent years, rum has emerged as the only Some of the stand-out offerings were the gin-based spirit to record growing demand for the age group of Liquid 35

news bourbon with maple syrup and corn smoke; and Antidote, a blend of whiskey, pomegranate juice and ginger syrup. The bar menu includes an exhaustive list of single malts and infused spirits. The calendar of live music events and jazz nights, according to Merchant, will add another dimension to 29-45 years. Event partner Business France, the national agency supporting the internationalisation of the French economy, will be supporting companies in its pavilion and sees the event as a unique opportunity to promote young French distillers. Organizer Patrick Loger stated: “Given the worldwide craze for rum, our first international edition is an opportunity for all the players in the ecosystem to explain and understand the market for this spirit and its strong growth.” Larrikin Targets the Young China Gate recently opened Larrikin, a beachside restobar in Mumbai with retro-style décor, a focus on modern cuisine and classic cocktails. Ankit Tamang, founder of the chain, described it as a ‘blend of old- Larrikin’s unique offering. Champagne Award 2023 world charm and modern elegance’, Larrikin’s food and Comite Champagne CIVC recently announced the cocktail menu is inspired by European cuisine and pays inaugural edition of The Champagne Award 2023 in homage to Mumbai, using locally popular ingredients. India in collaboration with FINE Foundation. Savio Writer and influencer Nikhil Merchant, who hosted the opening, said: “This restobar caters to a growing niche of young adults who seek a sophisticated bar experience and not just a run-of-the-mill night out. The Samson Cardoza, Sommelier at Atlantis The Royal, was declared the winner, bagging an immersive study tour of Champagne with a special itinerary that includes visits to the vineyards and houses and tastings. food, cocktails and the ambience are consistent with A robust online selection process, put in place for that sense of sophistication.” the Award, was kicked off in October 2023. Indian Larrikin lays emphasis on the ‘smoke’ element, incorporating smoked meats and smoked cocktails on the menu, and has a dedicated cigar lounge – the preserve of five star hotels until now. Larrikin’s bar has a vintage theme both in design and the cocktail menu created by resident mixologist Chetan Gangan. The nationals were invited to participate in a four-stage application process. 40 applications from professionals with wide-ranging profiles were received. All eligible candidates sat for an online multiple-choice exam. The top percentile were invited for a zoom interview and the 2023 winner was announced on December 31. signature cocktails include B-tel Negroni that gives the The Comité Champagne is a joint trade association classic cocktail a spin with betel leaf-infused gin and of all the houses and growers and as custodian of the gulkand; Timeless Geezer that marries spice-infused Champagne appellation, works towards the balance, 36 Liquid

news stability and promotion of the region’s wines. FINE Foundation, established in 2010, has been following through its commitment to support wine education amongst professionals in India. Rajiv Singhal, Ambassador of Champagne to India, has led the promotion and protection activities for Champagne since 2006 to educate and engage with professionals and stakeholders across India. This new CIVC initiative was conceptualized to recognize the role of trade professionals in building awareness around Champagne and is the only one of its kind in India to be supported by any wine region. Thanking all applicants, Singhal said “We are grateful to the professionals for what they help us achieve. This award acknowledges and wine still accounts for a miniscule percentage of the their contribution to our cause and hopefully motivates alcohol consumption in India. Despite this, 169 wines them to further their engagement with Champagne.” are detailed in the wine list with an unprecedented Taj’s Captain’s Cellar 46 of them offered by the glass – a concept that was The Taj Mahal New Delhi on Mansingh Road has R1,400-3,000 for 50 ml multiple pours. launched Captain’s Cellar, a lounge that is all about wine. The newest offering from this iconic property coincides with its 45th year celebrations. introduced to India by Group Ritu around 15 years ago. This could well be the most elaborate wine list in any wine serving establishment in India. And the wine is thankfully quite affordable – between R600-2,500 for a 150 ml glass, and interesting wine flights between This is made possible by the best technology for wine preservation available today – 20 nozzles of the Italian Enomatic wine serving systems have been installed to A contemporary space inspired by traditional wine dispense some of the wines-by-the-glass, alongside cellars, Captain’s Cellar has been designed with arches, the many wine coolers and the Coravin system that is exposed brick work, cast iron details and timber. Wine brought into play for the top-end wines. The Enomatics photos, bottles and barrels interplay with modern art on dispense three measures – 15, 50 and 150 ml. The the walls. Dionysus, the Greek God of Wine, approves smallest pour is free to sample – to encourage guests from his perch on the central pillar. to explore and settle on what suits their mood the best. The lounge takes guests on a journey around the world The cheese and charcuterie platters and the tapas- with spaces named after famous wine regions – Napa, style plates imagined by Chef Arun Sundararaj are a Mosel, Rhone, and Akluj. Two fully-equipped private modern rendition of celebrated culinary traditions, spaces are aptly named Old World and New World. authentic recipes integrate into a convivial experience A snug cigar lounge offers a large selection of smoky for the guests. pleasures. An attempt has been made to make wine less Wine takes centre stage at Captain’s Cabin. Curated intimidating and less daunting – Captain’s Cellar is across countries, grape varietals, colour and styles, about enjoying wine. Satyajeet Krishnan, Area Director the wine list highlights the essence of this space and is and General Manager of Taj Mahal New Delhi, said: an impressive feat in itself. Very few labels of wine are “Captain’s Cellar is a haven and a voyage, to celebrate registered with excise authorities in the State of Delhi cuisine, camaraderie and all things wine.” Liquid 37

launch I n 2018, AR Spirits was born in the Charente in the heart of the Spirits Valley – the French spirits basin in Cognac in the South West of France. Cyrielle Rigaud, founder of AR Spirits, carefully imagines and develops all the recipes. “We create exceptional premium spirits manufactured in the famed terroir of France with the pure local spring water from Gensac-LaPallue that is gluten-free and vegan and entirely organic to keep only the purest, most aromatic and balanced core whilst maintaining the alcohol content at around 70%. Maturation in French oak barrels contributes to the aromatic development. A tasting committee of five people tastes, selects and blends samples that have been freshly distilled or aged in different casks. Blending ensures that the rich and elegant style of the House of AR Spirits is expressed. – this is in our DNA. We strive to offer serious, elegant Cyrielle crafts spirits with strong personalities whilst and friendly brands that are engaging and aspirational, upholding a strong commitment to sustainability that at an affordable price.” Small traditional copper Charentais stills of 25 hectolitres are used to get an intense spirit with depth, richness and consistency of flavour. With each distillation, the first and last condensates (heads and tails) are discarded in order Environmental impact and carbon footprint is limited as much as possible. Be Different Be Bold 38 Liquid

launch should leave a positive impact on people and planet. ‘Be Original, Be Natural, Be Different’ – this is about a unique taste, no additives and an eye-catching look and design which remains respectful of the environment. The company does its ‘little’ bit with solvent-free paint, recycled wood stoppers, mineral fibre and stone powder labels. Each bottle is numbered (for unique traceability). part of the new on-board experience in premium cabins. Environmental impact and carbon footprint is limited as much as possible by working with the raw materials and processes within a small zone as close as possible to the facilities. AR Spirits donates significantly to Reforest Action that fights deforestation by conserving forests and planting trees. They create value by allowing all partners and employees to grow together towards a shared success. malt whisky. Organic Charente malted barley distilled in The collection of Madame Vodka, Monsieur Gin and Monsieur Fernand Whisky have taken to the skies via a partnership with Air France. They are poured as a before being reduced with water from the local spring of The collection also has the honour of being selected by the Head Sommelier of the Elysee to be included in the Presidential Cellar. Excellent references and now imported in India by Empire Spirits India. TASTING NOTES: Monsieur Fernard Whisky: A 100% French blended a Charente still and aged for four years in old barrels of Pineau des Charentes. Floral notes, creamy texture and underlying walnuts, cinnamon and honey. Opulent and harmonious. Madame Vodka: Carefully handwrought, made from organic, gluten-free and allergen-free quinoa that is grown in the Loire Valley. Distilled in a Charente still Gensac-La-Pallue. Supple and well balanced. Notes of chestnut blossom. Gracious length. Monsieur Gin: An expression of ancestral French know-how. Made with organic juniper, coriander seeds, lightly lemony organic Charentaise verbena leaves and elderflower. Final distillation in a Charente still in the Spirits Valley. Lot of freshness. Smooth texture. Elegant and generous. L Repurposed stoppers Rajiv Singhal Liquid 39

spirits CAPture the Night I n mid-2014, a taxi dropped me off on an unfamiliar Kyoto road around midnight. The city lights dimmed, casting a serene glow over the alley. I walked up to what seemed like residences and was ushered through a red door into a dimly lit bar. There, I met Akio, act of slowing down and relishing the fleeting beauty of the moment with spirits that spill richness and balance, before a good night’s rest. TRAVELLING THROUGH CULTURES the barkeep of this speakeasy named Bar K6. Seated Over the years, whenever I travel I seek out the cities’ on a barstool, I received a delicate cup of warm sake nightcaps. A cozy bistro in Paris introduced me to which paid homage to the ancient yozakura tradition – the heady mix of French cognac and Italian amaretto. the viewing of cherry blossoms at night. As I savoured This the sake’s smooth warmth, I reflected on nightcaps. It origins that lie somewhere in the 1970s with a Gene isn’t just about the drink but the ritual – the intentional Hackman movie of the same name. Its sweet, nutty 40 Liquid nightcap, called French Connection, has

flavour profile along with the warmth of cognac, has the power to lull one into a deep stupor. The patrons around me debated the ideal nightcap – some swore Photo: Fonseca spirits by Bordeaux’s depth, others by the smoky allure of a single malt. Preferences varied, each claiming their chosen concoction as the key to unlocking the perfect night’s rest. cube. Discussions here centered on moderation – the fine line between celebration and excess. The nightcap, they insisted, was a nod to life’s joys, not an escape from its challenges. While trawling Europe’s beautiful drinkscape, Italy stood out with its citrusy offerings. As I raised my Flying to the bustling metropolis with a glittering skyline, New York, I explored a trendy rooftop bar glass to the stars on a moonlit terrace overlooking the Mediterranean, a glass of limoncello chilled to perfection awaited. Onwards to Portugal where old bottles of Port were poured into tiny crystal glasses, making for a sweet post-supper interlude – my tryst with nightcaps had begun in the most effervescent way. Next was the prohibition cocktail Mecca – New Orleans, with historic taverns lining the streets; where jazz melodies mingle with the scent of spices. A Sazerac, the city’s soul in a glass, was presented – a delicate balance of absinthe, rye whiskey and a sugar Post-dinner, it’s rare to find many Indians continuing with alcohol consumption. Sazerac Liquid 41

spirits air carried the rich scent of peat and the sound of bagpipes. Guiding me was an aged distiller, who poured a sip of the finest single malt. He smiled knowingly, emphasizing the importance of savouring each sip. Amidst the stone walls, questions arose about the science behind nightcaps and their impact on dreams. With a twinkle in his eye, the guide shared Photo: indiaphile.info tales of mythical spirits said to visit those who enjoyed Espresso Martini where mixologists pushed the boundaries. Tequila infused with hazelnut and made into Espresso Martinis, followed by gins blended with floral essences of lavender, soothing yet perky – here, the latest trends for 2024 were on full display. The evolution of nightcaps, the mixologist explained, lay in exploring the unexpected. In the misty Scottish highlands, I stepped into a distillery surrounded by barrels of aging whisky. The Hot Toddy a dram before bedtime. Whether grounded in science or wrapped in folklore, the experience stays with me till date, while I occasionally enjoy a wee dram before bed. My journey concluded in our very own Indian kitchen, where masala chai infused with cardamom and cinnamon holds a special place in our hearts – it is highly reminiscent of Hot Toddy, made with bergamotinfused Earl Grey Tea, sweet spices and a shot of brandy – a little boozy bedtime treat. The stories woven through these nightcaps are as diverse as the spirits that grace glasses around the world, each adding a unique note to cultural affiliations. 42 Liquid

INDIA AND NIGHTCAPS India, for the most part, doesn’t embrace an extensive drinking culture beyond two familiar habits. The first Photo: Lillet spirits involves the pre-dinner drinking session that sets the tone for the evening. The second involves sipping wine with a meal – perhaps at a brunch or an elegant dinner. While the latter practice has recently gained traction, it remains somewhat niche and modern. Post-dinner, it’s rare to find many Indians continuing with alcohol consumption. More often than not, the reason cited is being too full after the meal or having consumed a satisfying amount earlier in the evening. In recent times, however, there’s a subtle shift in this narrative. With the growing influence of global trends and the emergence of more diverse beverage options, a younger generation is exploring a broader spectrum of drinks and drinking occasions. Many liqueurs have been introduced to India, ranging from the popular Baileys Irish Cream to the lesserknown French aperitif Lillet. While not explicitly marketed as nightcaps, they align with the concept, and are influential in shifting drinking habits. The essence of Indian drinking culture remains rooted in socializing with family, friends or at business parties. Within this though, young millennials and GenZ are increasingly open to the idea of a well-intentioned nightcap, one which extends beyond conventional drinking habits, perhaps as a way to unwind or savour The essence of Indian drinking culture remains rooted in socializing with family, friends or at business parties. the quietude of the night. L Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai born food and beverage expert, restaurateur & writer (Nonchalant Gourmand) who strives to wed the flavors of food to the myriad moods of life. Liquid 43

tradition Handia A Brew of Tradition H umankind was built on beer. From the world’s first writing to its first laws, in rituals social, Rice beer is the oldest brewed liquor in the history of civilisation. In India, its variants are Sekmai Yu in religious, and political, civilization is soaked in beer, Manipur, Apong in Assam, Bangla in West Bengal, says William Bostwick, beer critic for the Wall Street Lugdi in Himachal Pradesh, Kiad Um in Meghalaya, Journal. While some may vehemently contest this and statement, it certainly holds true for many of India’s Chhattisgarh. In Madhya Pradesh’s Bastar region, the tribal communities. Munda and Santhal tribes (both of which claim to be 46 Liquid Handia in Bihar, Orissa, Jharkhand and

tradition thick gruel called Handia, and rasi, its liquid top layer. Handia is ascribed with benefits that range from alleviating stress to improving digestion and immunity. The crucial fermentation process can last anywhere from a few days to a couple of weeks, depending on the desired taste and potency. During fermentation, natural wild yeast and bacteria present in the environment initiate the transformation of rice sugars the inventors of Handia) regard it as a sacred drink. In into alcohol, resulting in the production of the beer. the Indian tribal beverage rainbow, Handia is arguably TRADITION IN HISTORY Handia’s roots burrow deep into history, dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization. The Vedas speak of a rice beer-like drink called sura that was a favourite of Indra, the leader of Gods. Kautilya has documented two intoxicating beverages made from rice called medaka and prasanna, and his treatise on statecraft discusses the use of such liquors in the art of diplomacy. Around the same time, Megasthenes, the Greek Ambassador to the court of Emperor Chandragupta Maurya, observed in his book Indica that Indians made a wine from rice instead of barley, which they drank during sacrifices. the brightest hue. CRAFTING THE ELIXIR The term Handia originates from the Hindi word handi, meaning a wide-mouth earthen pot, the vessel in which this elixir is brewed. Its preparation is an alchemical process involving bakhar or ranu tablets — a fermenting agent comprising equal quantities of the roots of samarkani, ankanadi, chaulia, kanga alu, patal garuda, habin jhad and bark of sal bisal, kuluchi, with the whole plant of kalibahu ground together and sun- Photo: Taste Different dried into tablets. The result is a divine concoction of a Ready for brewing Liquid 47

Photo: Titobabu tradition Handia at a haat Handia is a cultural pivot resonating in tribal festivals, ceremonies and daily life. IN CULTURE AND FOLKLORE In tribal culture, Handia is a symbol of hospitality, friendship and celebration, connecting people with their roots and history. For example, Santhals believe in one supreme being whom they call Thakur Jiu (Life Giver) or Maran Buru (Great Mountain). According to their myths, this supreme deity taught the first pair of humans, Pilchu Haram and Pilchu Budhi, how to prepare Handia. In tribal folklore, Handia is an elusive spirit, embellishing cultural narratives with mythical tales. It becomes a symbol of resistance, unity and jubilation – a guardian in times of adversity. HANDIA AS A HEALER Over time, Handia has been endowed with medicinal 48 Liquid properties rooted in tribal beliefs. Folk tales passed down in the communities reveal the deep integration of Handia into their health narratives. While the scientific gaze may not have fully embraced these claims, Handia is ascribed with benefits that range from alleviating stress to improving digestion and immunity. It is also used as a tonic for liver health, a guardian against blood pressure imbalances, and a shield to ward off the spectres of malaria and jaundice. EVOLUTION INTO COMMERCE Handia now finds a niche in the daily commerce of tribal communities, with some venturing into its smallscale commercial production to supplement their modest means. Tribal women, guardians of tradition, grace the roadsides during weekly haats (markets), purveying the elixir to curious passers-by. SEEKING NEW HORIZONS Despite its seamless evolution, challenges linger. The unregulated production of Handia sometimes treads perilous grounds, raising questions about quality and safety. There have been tragic consequences,

tradition Photo: Counterview leading to recent endeavours that seek to standardize production. A renaissance is unfolding, as entrepreneurs and organizations embrace the allure of traditional and indigenous beverages. Handia, once confined to tribal domains, now beckons markets both within India and across borders. As the wheels of commerce turn, challenges of regulation, quality control, and packaging loom. If able to overcome these hurdles, Handia stands poised to enchant a global audience, a cultural emissary from the heart of tribal India. Handia is a cultural pivot resonating in tribal festivals, ceremonies and daily life. More than just a drink, it’s a tradition, a social adhesive, and an economic beacon — a sip of authenticity in a world thirsty for heritage. L Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as Secretary to Government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog. RED ANT CHUTNEY: AN IDEAL ACCOMPANIMENT Handia is best relished with the exotic chapda chutney (red ant chutney). Prepared from the larvae and eggs of red ants, it has been endorsed by celebrity chefs like Gordon Ramsay, who terms it ‘among the best chutneys in the world’. Idiosyncratic in taste and flavour and vibrant in its fiery appearance, the chutney delivers a spicy punch. The raw larvae provide a delightful medley of sweet and sour, while the fiery kick is attributed to the formic acid present in the ants. Ground in a paste of red chillies, this culinary creation is a hot and spicy delicacy, embodying the spirit of tribal lands. Ready to serve Liquid 49

Photo: Shutterstock cocktail Cocktails with a Twist Savoury Seduction I was seated with Shweta Kaushik, the visionary behind one of Goa’s freshest spots. Housed in an ancient villa in Assagaon, Barfly promised a unique experience. Curiosity led me to the Caprese on the menu. “It’s like a salad in a glass, but has the core of a proper classic,” Shweta explained. The drink arrived in a rocks glass with a basil leaf, a dehydrated tomato chip, and a delicate slice of mozzarella. Strong umami of clarified tomato merged with tequila’s vegetal finesse, accentuated by basil’s herbaceous notes and innovation thrives. Today, it has made its mark from Mumbai to Goa and onwards to Delhi. REINVENTING CLASSICS At the core of this mixological transformation lies the marriage of tradition and innovation. Consider the iconic Bloody Mary, a trailblazer in savoury cocktails. It’s the perfect balance of tomato juice, vodka and spices and sets a precedent for many likeable piquant elements in a drink. a martini-like boldness. A sip unravelled wonder. Often confined to the realm of sweet and fruity, or the good ol’ classics, the savoury cocktail phenomenon is making its way across the seven salty seas. This trend first flourished in New York, London, and Tokyo, where 50 Liquid At the core of this mixological transformation lies the marriage of tradition and innovation.

cocktail Photo: Shutterstock Contemporary mixologists are pushing boundaries even further with inspired creations that blur the lines between food and drink. Enter the Cucumber Basil Smash, a refreshing concoction where muddled cucumber and aromatic basil join forces with gin or vodka. And the Umami Martini, where a dash of Worcestershire introduces an intriguing undertone, elevating the classic cocktail to new dimensions of complexity. Another standout is the Gibson, where a martini gains depth with the infusion of onion brine, creating an unforgettable sipping experience. Notably, Stranger & Son’s, a Goan distillery, takes pride in offering a gin that celebrates its Indian heritage by infusing spices like pepper, mace and coriander – ideally suited for an exquisite Gibson. Photo: Absolut Drinks As bartenders continue to redefine the art of cocktails, a medley of unconventional ingredients finds its way into shakers and glasses. Today’s bar counters have a palette of ingredients ranging from brines, fermented liquids and even savoury condiments like miso paste, balsamic reduction, and soy sauce. Saline solution (a Cucumber Basil Smash 1:16 solution of salt and water) is gaining popularity as a staple amongst bartenders, along with nuanced spirits like aquavit, gin and sherry. Smoky spirits, such as mezcal and select Scotches, lend a smouldering depth to cocktails. THE INDIAN FACTOR India, with its kaleidoscope of spices and flavours, brings its own distinct charm to the world of savoury cocktails. A perennial fusion favourite is the Curry Leaf Martini, the fragrance of which instantly transports you to a warm, homely Indian kitchen. Masala Margarita couples Tequila with the warmth of cardamom and clove, perhaps kissed by the tanginess of tamarind? Saffron Spice Sour marries the opulence of saffron with the zing of a sour-style cocktail, creating a visual and gustatory libation. The world of savoury cocktails is a playground of taste and imagination, drawing in both seasoned enthusiasts and adventurous newcomers. Cocktails are serious business, but sometimes, they just need Gibson to be taken with a pinch of salt. Liquid 51

Photo: The Bombay Canteen cocktail Brilliant Brews Tsuki, Pune: The quirky cocktail menu features Wabi-Sabi, their hot-seller. Tequila is washed in pungent wasabi and stirred with clarified passion fruit, creating a delicate balance between sweet and salt. Photo: Prateek Swadesh & Chirag Patnaik Stolen Kiss Sly Granny, Bangalore: Osaka Mary is a nod to the classic Bloody Mary, with its own unique blend of vodka tossed with tomato, citrus, celery salt, pepper and wasabi. The Bombay Canteen, Mumbai: The Stolen Kiss, a tequila-based concoction with pickled starfruit and pineapple, is their take on the Pickled Margarita that evokes the sensation of a passionate kiss. The chilisalted rim adds another layer of spice. PCO - Pass Code Only, Mumbai: Kalamkari features vodka, ginger, raw mango brine and lime acid, and is an ode to the ancient art of painting on cotton and silk with a tamarind pen. It’s crisp, spiced, tangy and briny. Photo: PCO Mountain Margarita Slink & Bardot, Mumbai: Pizza Rita is an off-menu, Margarita-style cocktail that marvellously blends charred red bell pepper and pickled red jalapeños with the tart umami flavours of cherry tomatoes, fresh lime and agave. Kembara, Hyderabad: The Water of Life is a tequila-based cocktail with bird’s eye chilli, clarified watermelon juice, saline and fizz. Loya, Taj Palace New Delhi: The Mountain Margarita celebrates North India’s rivers, senses and elements, and Loya’s cocktail philosophy. It blends tequila, mango purée, lime, rose-chilli syrup, and homemade pisyu loon (a Pahadi spiced salt), giving an Indian twist to a revered classic. L Kalamkari 52 Liquid Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai born restaurateur, food expert and writer (Nonchalant Gourmand) who strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life.

An initiative of the

bar An Evening at a Library Bar A s the disc of molten gold begins its daily descent behind the endless expanse of turquoise sea, Cayman, it is the library that dominates the bar. One can the sky above and the water below reflect the rapidly ambience, the air, the sight, the smell and the mood; it changing hues of the setting sun. It is at this time that all comes together with a subtle sensuality, offering an the Library by The Sea, the iconic bar at the Kimpton experience both unique and unprecedented. Seafire Resort + Spa, comes alive. nurse a cocktail while leisurely perusing a classic. The DÉCOR LIBRARY BARS A traditional fisherman’s boat dominates the ceiling. The concept of Library Bars is not a novelty. They can Lined with bookshelves made of rich woodwork, the be found in London, Paris, Amsterdam, New York, tomes are tastefully displayed, carefully curated and Charleston, even in New Delhi. But mostly they are cover subjects that range from local history to regional libraryesque bars where books are relegated to a well- literature and classics. The furniture, layout and mood appointed, often ornate, nook. At Seafire in the Grand prioritise the needs of a serious reader in a library 54 Liquid

bar over those of a tipsy reveller at a bar. Even the gaily decorated bar counter, the most popular spot to hang around, chooses to represent its local craft and colours in dignified elegance. ART, LITERATURE, HISTORY & ALCOHOL Woven around famous fictional and real characters and their drinking proclivities, the descriptions of drinks on offer ignite your curiosity and tempt you to sample as many of their creatively crafted cocktails as possible. The beverages invoke authors and artists, poets and painters, men of letters and women of substance. The Hemingway Special is an ode to Hemingway, with his recommendation of daiquiri with double rum and no sugar. Alexandre Dumas, the prolific French writer, is commemorated through the Monte Cristo cocktail, a concoction of Cognac, Rye, Benedictine, Curacao and Library Bars can be found in London, Paris, even New Delhi. But, at Seafire in the Grand Cayman, it is the library that dominates the bar. other delights. And Singin’ & Swingin’, created out of hickory rum, chicory coffee and spiced butter-creme caramel foam, pays tribute to Dr Maya Angelou, writer, The list is long and the associated descriptions revealing poet and civil rights activist. Agatha Christie, the fabled and enlightening. Sample this one, of a local sugarcane and whimsical mystery queen, finds remembrance in spirit infused with island botanicals, celebrating Quarrel, Murder in the Afternoon, combining Pear Eau-de-vie, a character from Ian Fleming’s spy novels and short cassis, strawberry, mint, citrus oils and Champagne. stories, whom any avid Bond film fan will recall: Liquid 55

bar library, excited as schoolchildren as they explain their Woven around famous fictional and real characters and their drinking proclivities, the descriptions of drinks on offer ignite your curiosity. concept and vision for this unusual bar. A WALK IN REVERIE As I step out of the library on my final evening in the Caymans, the early December moon is already up the horizon. I saunter towards the beach. The moonlight dappled surface light up in slivers of molten silver and “Quarrel was a Caymanian fisherman and master of the seas, who took a young James Bond under his wing and taught him the ways of the ocean. The Caribbean was a massive influence on Fleming, who wrote most of his books in Jamaica and set numerous stories amongst the people and places of the islands.” JIM AND ANDREWS Jim and Andrews is not some local twist of a classic cocktail, but the two men who constitute the soul of this bacchanalian library. Hailing from the UK, they bring with them expertise, experience, and a strong motivation to create a compelling and captivating setting. Their passion is infectious, energy abundant, and commitment unmatched. Few aficionados could rival their understanding and intuition of this esoteric avocation, or their mastery of the science and art of creating palate-tingling innovations. Despite years given to the craft, they can be regularly found at the 56 Liquid the waves dance bewitchingly on the shore. I am in an intoxicatingly good mood. It is only sometime later that I realise I have not had a single drink all evening. L Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as a Secretary to the Government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog.

cocktail Doing it the Italian Way H erbal liqueur Vecchio Amaro del Capo marries twenty-nine herbs, flowers, fruits and roots planted across Italy’s southerly region of Calabria. Over 118-years-old, Caffo Distillery has produced this complex and intense liqueur in a style that teems with the bittersweet taste of oranges, the delicacy of orange blossom and chamomile, and the intensity of liquorice, peppermint and aniseed. All combined in a unique, secret recipe. Typically Amaro is consumed chilled and in a shot glass - we urge you to get creative and try these cocktails at home with an Italian favourite. NEGRONI DEL CAPO STALLION 25ml gin 25ml Vecchio Amaro del Capo 25ml red vermouth 10ml Aperol 25ml Vecchio Amaro del Capo 20ml Luxardo rosso 5 drops of aromatic bitters 25ml mezcal Stir all ingredients together and serve in a rocks glass with ice and garnish with a grapefruit slice. A layer of candied fruit and mint in this modern spin on Negroni. Stir all ingredients together and serve in rocks glass with ice and garnish with an orange peel twist. Amaro smoothens the contours of mezcal and adds luscious fruity character. CAPO SOUR CAPO SPRITZER 40ml Vecchio Amaro del Capo 30ml Vecchio Amaro del Capo 15ml fresh lime 15ml Aperol 10ml sugar 25ml white wine 25ml egg white Top up with soda water 5 drops of Celtic salt and smoke bitters Stir all ingredients together, serve in a stemless wine glass with ice and garnish with an orange peel twist. A can’tgo-wrong DIY cocktail with a backbone of intense bitter fruit and spice. Dry shake ingredients, add ice and shake again. Double strain into a rocks glass and garnish with a green lime quarter. A surge of honeyed fruit contrasts smoky bitters. Liquid 57

wine Photo: Rishabh Verma The Great Nashik Terroir Igatpuri view T erroir is that vital word that defines the story of every vinous phenomenon, be it the more wines that show a unique local style. Most of that wine, traditional Old World giants or their inventive New produced in one region – Nashik. An oddity given the World competition. As the sum of climate, soil and enormity and diverse geography of the subcontinent, human input that eventually yields ferment, terroir verdant Nashik is on a 20° north latitude and sits at unites all winemaking countries as the key element a cool 600-metre altitude in Maharashtra’s northern of their unique narratives – and India is no different. reaches, balancing a curious profile of heavy industry as in the case of New World compatriot, Argentina, is The Indian wine story is recently minted in the context with the country’s largest grape supplies. of the ferment’s history, though this New World The region’s rugged acreage of vineyards is rooted country has slowly become a reliable producer of almost entirely in volcanic soils ranging from clay, very drinkable and even award-winning red and white basalt, weathered basalt and red laterite, that tends 58 Liquid

wine harvest. Interestingly, one of Nashik’s key, unique One of Nashik’s key, unique attributes is the time of harvest. attributes is the time of harvest. While most other New World countries harvest in autumn, grape in Nashik is picked at the end of winter, from December to March. That time of harvest, especially the first month, is ideal not to retain much water and exerts hydrate stress on the fruit, making the vines work hard but elevating their quality. The location of vineyards around the hills and in proximity to the Gangapur Dam on the Godavari river results in very different microclimates, thus making a big difference in wine qualities. The trellis system deployed by viticulturists is also an important aspect of the terroir. In Nashik the Y-shaped trellis system is employed, which provides constant air flow, important during the damp and humid monsoons which can lead to mildew on the grapes. Autumn and winter temperatures that can drop to as low as 10°C are ideal and the altitude advantage translates to a drop of 6°C, both of which are ideal. for white wine grapes, as the cold nights enhance the grapes’ acid levels while the contrasting warmth during the day leads to optimum ripeness. Nashik is a great region for white wines such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Chenin Blanc, the latter in particular. Cool conditions and heat just at the cusp of harvest bring on the tropical fruit palate. The same does not hold true for the red grapes, especially Cabernet Sauvignon. This is because red grapes develop parazines that impart herbaceous flavour characteristics which in the European context melt away during a patch of heat just before harvest. These parazines present a challenge with regard to red wine production in Nashik. For a time, Gangapur was a significant sub region and night temperatures – allows white wine grapes to though it is now widely urbanized and vineyard retain vital acidity and flavours leading up to a winter acreage has declined. Its riverside clay-rich soils Photo: Nilam Farm Nashik’s diurnal effect – significant differences in day Y trellis Liquid 59

wine were good for wines like Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz. The region of Niphad is Nashik’s coldest – at least 2°C cooler than the average. The soils here are predominantly loam and rich in clay with a sprinkling of rocky soils. Niphad’s extremely cool nights allow Nashik is on a 20° north latitude and sits at a cool 600 metre altitude in Maharashtra for the development of a number of lesser-known varieties, notably the Sicilian grapes Nero d’Avola and Grillo as well as Sangiovese and Chardonnay. Sinnar, an extension of Niphad, is well liked for its cool nights, growing plentiful white grapes. in most of Nashik but comes into its own in Dindori, yielding a style of upfront fruit and supple tannins. Dindori’s Shiraz style exudes ripe dark berries and Dindori is far and away Nashik’s most coveted subregion, that enjoys the fortuitous convergence of thin, free-draining soils and a diurnal climate that collectively conspire to produce some of India’s best wines. The region sits at an elevation of 70 metres above Nashik city and is the recipient of generous rainfall and temperatures almost as cool as Niphad. Ambient temperatures are consistent and the ripe fruit is abundant in textural complexity. The hills moderate the heat, helping retain acidity. Hence, Riesling thrives in Dindori, its freshness laced with citrus and lemon zest notes. Red laterite and clay soils dominate the complexity that can impress international palates. Igatpuri receives a lot of rainfall and is regarded as the ‘Cherrapunji’ of Maharashtra. Due to this, a lot of the vineyards are planted on slopes to ensure drainage of water. The soils here are mostly laterite and basalt, both of which are free-draining. While the rainy season can be a challenge, the climate leading up to harvest is cool and windy which keeps the grapes in good health. Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier do well in Igatpuri as does Tempranillo, which only grows in a few parts of Nashik. region. Red grapes grow well on the laterite soils, As with many of the world’s major wine regions, especially the parcels in proximity to the hillside. The Nashik has been brushed by the creeping impact of roots go much deeper into Dindori’s free-draining global warming. The monsoon season has become soils, enhancing the concentration of the eventual increasingly unpredictable. In the past few years, it has fruit’s flavours. The Cabernet Sauvignon struggles spilled into late August, pushing the pruning towards Red laterite soil Clay soil 60 Liquid

wine Nero d’Avola Grillo September, which then impacts the hang time for the terroir to bear with smart canopy management. By fruit and final harvest. Worryingly, the 2022 monsoon considerably reducing the size of the canopy, grapes season was one of the largest on record in 17 years are being given more sun exposure. Fewer leaves while 2023 was the smallest. Unseasonal rain leading mean less loss of water through evaporation, hence up to harvest remains a looming threat. cutting back on irrigation which is good for the vines The unpredictable weather, particularly the milder winters Nashik has recently experienced, is a portent that winemakers may someday have to focus exclusively on vinifying early ripening varieties and uproot mid-to-late ripeners. That bridge might lie ten years down the road, but wine estates will have to cross it at some point. For now, Nashik’s viticulturists are bringing the human intelligence aspect of and the environment. The terroir of this westerly Indian region is not without its challenges, nor the shortage of conviction to keep delivering remarkable vintages. L Bhisham Mansukhani with inputs from Ajoy Shaw, Consultant Winemaker; Karan Vasani, Chief Operating Officer and Chief Winemaker, Sula Vineyards; and Manjunath VG, Vice President, Grover Zampa Vineyards. Liquid 61

wine Subtle Flavour of the Vine W ines can be categorised by country, grape, colour, effervescence, style, sugar content and winemaking techniques, making the sheer variety available in stores and restaurants sometimes overwhelming. The five broad categories of wine are red, white, rosé, sparkling and dessert. Deepening our knowledge can help in selecting wines for different occasions. In this article, we delve into the fascinating world of one very special wine – Ice Wine. vinification, and is an artform in itself. Its production involves a long and complex process. The grapes are allowed to freeze – naturally – on the vine well past harvest time, which separates the water from the sugars. Typically, when the first frost hits the northern hemisphere in December-January, the frozen grapes are harvested by hand, and crushed without allowing them to thaw. The window of picking, therefore, is very short and labour-intensive. The HOW IT IS MADE grapes (both red and white) are handpicked in the Making ice wine is an exacting science that has early hours of the morning at temperatures at which birthed a whole amazing subsection of viticulture and the water turns into ice crystals, optimally between −8 62 Liquid

wine to −6°C, resulting in highly concentrated and sweet juices. When these frozen grapes are crushed, the tiny amount of juice that is released is ultra-rich both in sugars and acids. After filtering for seeds, skin and grape or vine residue, the juice is fermented. Again, A lot less wine is eventually produced than would be from grapes that are harvested unfrozen. due to the low temperatures, the fermentation takes three to six months to retain the delicate flavours. The process is very s..l..o..w! HOW IT ALL BEGAN WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL The story of ice wine can be traced to Germany. In Ice wine is notoriously difficult to make – it’s a rigmarole 1794, an unexpectedly early and harsh winter froze of labour and precision – requiring not only specific the grapes before they could be harvested, and the meteorological conditions but also painstaking skill and craftsmanship, investment in time, cooperation from nature – and considerable financial risk. The forced delay in picking means that if it does not get cold enough in the winter, that year’s crop may rot and be wasted. Additionally, a lot less wine is eventually produced than would be from grapes that vintners chose to crush the frozen grapes rather than drop the crop. The wine thus produced had a sweet taste balanced well with acidity – it gained a lot of popularity. What a happy accident! When the Germans migrated to Canada and the U.S., they carried their Eiswein (ice wine) traditions with them. And the rest, as they say, is history! are harvested unfrozen. Thus, wine enthusiasts may WHERE IT IS FOUND need to pay upwards of a few hundred dollars for a Ice wine is limited to vine-growing regions where the bottle of ice wine. It is often sold in small bottle sizes required sub-zero temperatures can expect to be (375ml or 200ml), in luxurious packaging, all of which reached with some regularity. Canada (notably the has contributed to ice wine being positioned at the top provinces of Ontario, British Columbia, Quebec and end of the wine choices. Nova Scotia) is the leading manufacturer. Ice wine is Liquid 63

wine German ice wines are Riesling-based, characterized by a zesty, fruity bouquet. WHAT TO ENJOY IT WITH Owing to its sweetness, ice wine is delicious with cheeses like brie or goat cheese, foie gras and salty snacks. It can be served with desserts such as ice cream, cheesecake and pound cake. A more traditional after-meal pairing is to serve it with baked or poached fruit. Ice wine is not for everyone, and not just because it is rather expensive. Some people find the ultra-rich sweetness off-putting. Like with everything else, appreciating ice wine is about personal preferences. But given its interesting journey, this novel wine is certainly worth trying. Cheers!. L Lovleen Banga is an author and editor of textbooks who studied science at St Stephen’s College, Delhi. She loves literature, creative writing, movies, travel – and experiencing different cultures. also produced in Austria, Slovenia, Lithuania and the U.S. as well as Japan and New Zealand. HOW IT TASTES Ice wine is sweet, creamy and delicious with beautifully concentrated flavours — refreshing like none other! The grapes most often used are Riesling, Vidal Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner and Cabernet Franc. What they have in common is greater acidity levels. White ice wines retain the freshness of the base grape, whereas red ice wines have lightly spicy fruit flavours. Ice wine tasting notes are specific to their origins. For instance, German ice wines are Riesling-based, characterized by a zesty, fruity bouquet with juicy peach, apricot and honey notes. Canadian ice wines made with Vidal Blanc and Cabernet Franc are known for their fruity notes of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Most ice wines age beautifully over time. 64 Liquid

france Saint-Émilion Ban des Vendanges O f all the seasons, farmers feel a special enthusiasm for harvest. The summer’s demanding work is almost done, and it’s time to reap the benefits. It is not surprising that different cultures across the world celebrate harvest through festivals, and wine regions are no exception. In my coup de coeur - favourite - region, Saint-Émilion, there is a long- 66 Liquid standing tradition of ban des vendanges or the official lifting of the ban on picking fruit. Associated with royal celebrations and aristocracy, it was abolished during the French Revolution and revived by passionate locals in 1948. This celebration always falls on the third Sunday of September and marks the official beginning of the harvest.

france Studies throughout the wine-growing regions show that the recent increases in temperatures have accelerated the phenological processes of the vines. Photo: Palauenc05 This date was designated by the ‘jurades’ to ensure the best quality of grapes, and by extension the quality of wines from Saint-Émilion. The brotherhood of jurade was established when Saint-Émilion came under the dominion of the English. John Lackland, then King of England, acknowledged and recognised the growing spiritual and religious influence of SaintÉmilion and gave its eight parishes administrative, legal and financial autonomy. Wines from SaintÉmilion were highly sought after across the English channel and in other European kingdoms at that time, and this made it imperative that its reputation was maintained. To protect against poor winemaking, the picking or harvest date was never left to public decision and experts were sent into the vineyards to check the quality and ripeness of grapes. By tradition, harvest is proclaimed from the top of the very imposing medieval King’s tower, overlooking the southern slope of Saint-Émilion village. This festival is marked by a procession led by the marguillier (master of ceremonies), followed by the seal bearer carrying a vintner seal, and the grand vintner. Then come the chancellors and the ladies of the jurade. Liquid 67

Photo: La Grande Maison Younan Collection france Associated with royal celebrations and aristocracy, ban des vendanges was abolished during the French Revolution and revived in 1948. England and France - it bears both the Lilies of France and the Lions of England. As they walk in the footsteps of their predecessors, the members carry on the tradition of protecting the quality of wines, and also bring awareness to the effects of changing times. As the vagaries of climate change become increasingly unpredictable, their implications for the harvest have left the growers in a conundrum. Estimating the ‘ripeness’ of the grapes to set the harvest date has become more and more complicated. Completing the procession are the guests of honour, new members and deputies. It is a joyous occasion, as the parade makes its way through the narrow, winding, cobbled streets of the village, accompanied by a brass band. At the end of this musical procession, new members are inducted in the crypt of the monolithic church and take an oath to be ‘always loyal to Saint-Émilion’. This is followed by a feast fit for kings accompanied by the much sought after wines of Saint-Émilion. The jurades wear a cherry red robe and cap with a white jabot, gloves and cuffs. The village lights up with dots of bright scarlet that stand out against the beige of the limestone streets and architecture. The vintner seal carried in the parade is a symbol of the complicated, entangled history of relations between 68 Liquid Photo: vins-saint-emilion.com Berries accumulate sugars quite rapidly due to hotter weather throughout the season, but phenolic ripeness (the compounds that give aroma and colour

to red wines) may need more time. So, on one hand waiting for phenolic ripeness could mean too-high sugar levels, increasing the alcohol content. On the other hand, picking too early to limit the accumulation of sugars may result in a flabby, less intense wine. Various studies throughout the wine-growing regions show that the recent increases in temperatures have accelerated the phenological processes of the vines, making it necessary to bring harvest dates forward. I see this effect in Saint-Émilion too. Are we at risk of losing our traditions to climate change? Or is it an opportunity to modify and accommodate changes in this ever-changing world? I ponder this question as the band plays casa nova tunes from the Place du Marché in Saint-Émilion village, watching the red robes descend through ancient streets as I sip on the finest nectar of this region. L Saket Joshi graduated in Wine Sciences from the University of Auckland and has been working in viticulture and winemaking in USA, New Zealand and France for the last 12 years. Photo: Jean-Bernard Nadeau Photo: Ric’s Wine Journal france Liquid 69