Volume 2 Issue 3 Q3 2023 R 90 FIRST ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL Salphi Bastar’s Exquisite Nectar Shark Tank Spotlight on Liquids Bitters Revolution A Unique Harmony

contents what’s inside Bitters A Bitters Revolution Insight The New Brand Ambassador 4 Liquid 10 Bitters 20 Tradition Udaipur Sling Bastar’s Exquisite Nectar 14 Personality 23 Mexico Blah & Lama Mezcal Traditions 18 26

contents Gin Beefeater Gin Newsmaker Shark Tank Liquids Coffee Unexpected Brews 30 Bar 48 Tea 60 Tea Kolkata Musings New Wave Iced Teas Iranian Cafés 34 News 40 52 Juice 56 Fruit Power 66 Liquid 5

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advertisers THE STORY OF THE RAFFLES ICONIC BARS For a sophisticated and discreet experience, immerse in intimate conversations or book reading at The Writers Bar while indulging in bespoke artisanal and classic cocktails. In contrast, the iconic Long Bar stands as a testament to Raffles’ excellence, providing a perfect space for socializing and relaxation with libations and our signature Udaipur Sling. From enchanting rendezvous to lively celebrations, our bars offer the perfect backdrop to paint your evenings with memories that linger forever. For more details, connect with us hb068-re@raffles.com + 91 294 2779000 R Drink responsibly, dispose responsibly. ecycling of glass bottles has become unviable. Empty glass bottles are being dumped into already scarce landfill space - where they won’t decompose for a million years! Glass2Sand is an environment-friendly project that addresses this growing menace and creates a “zero waste” eco-system. Using an innovative “Made in India” technology, these bottles are crushed into silica-rich sand. Pledge your empty glass bottles to Glass2Sand. Call: +91 9810008289 | Mail: info@glass2sand.in glass2sand.in An initiative of the Liquid

advertisers GREAT COFFEE, MADE EASY Helping craft your perfect cup, at home, at work, and at any hotel or café PRESS HERE FOR COFFEE DELICIOUSNESS With the festive season upon us, we’re already being inundated by delicious looking coffee adverts - hazelnut infusions, espresso soaked gelatos, drunken marshmallows, a sprinkle of spice, or cool peppermint – the list is endless. And very often so is the list of artificial flavours, sweeteners, and preservatives that go with them. But tis the season to give in to temptation – and Cohoma Coffee brings you an easy way to craft your perfect coffee creations, without the fuss. Without the junk. Iced Honey Cinnamon Latte: A cold version of one of our most popular coffees! Use our Cinnamon Hazelnut capsules, made of single origin coffee infused with real Sri-Lankan Cinnamon and Hazelnut. Fill a tall glass with 4-6 ice cubes. Add 30 ml of organic honey to it. Pour a long shot of our Cinnamon Hazelnut coffee capsule on the ice to flash chill it. Top with~120 ml of cold milk. [Pro [P tip: A good frother often has a cold foam option that works perfectly here] French Vanilla Affogato: A crowd pleaser and a simple way to make an impression! Take a scoop of your favourite authentic vanilla ice cream or gelato in a cup. Brew a longer shot (Lungo) of Cohoma’s French Vanilla coffee capsule in a shot glass or demitasse – enjoy the waft of AA Grade Arabica infused with pure, aromatic vanilla bean. Gently pour over the ice cream on the table and soak in the oohs and aahs from your guests! f Organic Peppermint Marshmallow Latte: Nothing says holidays more than peppermint and marshmallows! Brew deliciousness with our Peppermint Capsules infused with real, organic peppermint. Pour a long shot with our capsules and top with ~150 ml of steamed milk. Add regular or toasted marshmallows and enjoy this holiday special. Molten Chocolate Mocha: Take a square / piece of your favorite artisanal milk chocolate and put it in a coffee cup. Put in a capsule of Cohoma: Original Custom Roast and brew a longer shot (Lungo) in your machine allowing the coffee to fall on the chocolate, melting it into gooey deliciousness. Top with ~150 ml of steamed milk. [Pro tip: An inexpensive automatic frother can give you [P café-like frothy milk at home]. Garnish with chocolate chips. For a twist, replace the chocolate with natural peanut butter and enjoy a peanut butter latte in a flash. Want to skip dairy? Substitute it with Oat, Nut, or Almond milk. Almond milks specially crafted to texture and blend better with coffees are also available. A nice warm cup late evening or at night curled up with a book or your favorite movie is truly a treat. Craving a late night coffee fix but don’t want to stay up all night? Select Cohoma’s Colombian Decaf capsules – made with certified decaf coffee from Colombia and fresh roasted for you at our roastery! 100% taste. 0% caffeine. So, this festive season be the barista and brew up a storm of deliciousness! A great cup of coffee can transport you to a better place. Come join our community on Instagram [@cohomacoffeecompany] or sign up for great recipes, new coffees, and much more. Whether you’re starting out or already a connoisseur, text us with any questions on 9654392165 and we’ll help you curate your perfect coffee experience! Our Liquid readers can now enjoy a limited time 15% OFF on www.cohomacoffee.com [Code: Liquid15]. 70-71 Imperial DS bleed white border 20231021 21 October 2023 17:38:58 Liquid

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publisher’s Volume 2 Issue 3 Q3 2023 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Managing Editor: Radhika Tandon Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Contributing Editor: Bhisham Mansukhani Design: Sandeep Kaul Photographs: Hunesh Ajmani Cover: freepik.com Digital: Udit Singhal Contributors: Amit Aggarwal Angeles Sanchez Brita Dasgupta Manasvi Kalra Navni Kumar Nikhil Merchant Stuart George Uday Varma Xenia Lam Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. note L ast week, the elevator in my office block beeped ‘overload’. It struck me that this was the first time in over three years I had experienced this otherwise rather ordinary occurrence. While once a crowd waiting outside its doors might have been an annoyance, I felt a wave of relief to realise that life has somewhat ‘normalised’. People around the globe seem to have learnt to cope and adapt to the umpteenth avatar of the virus, territorial conflicts, natural calamities and economic shocks. Perhaps they have even drowned their sorrows in their glasses? We love to celebrate in India, and the festive months of this last quarter of the year afford a chance to rejoice with friends and family. The festivities may be slightly delayed this year because of the tri-annual recalibration of the lunar and solar calendars, but we have another reason to cheer – Liquid turns one! It has been a very exciting journey into the fascinating world of beverages and the appetite for better is clearly palpable. Team Liquid is grateful to all those who have supported our steady progression to pole position. But our toast may well be ‘dry’ – with the left hand as directed by President Biden – as the political storm over alleged corrupt practices in policy making has brought all liquor vends in Delhi under government control, leaving an extremely lean selection on retail shelves. FINE Magazines unequivocally supports any steps to end ‘patronage for special benefits’. As an anniversary wish, we hope that regulatory authorities for the Indian publishing industry will also swing into action against unregistered, unlawful and unscrupulous magazines without further delay! Liquid 7

Photo: Achim Schleuning bitters P A Bitters Revolution icture a dimly lit, oak-panelled bar, flickering candles and the heady aroma of classic cocktails stirring the imagination of those who sought refuge from the mundane. Among the myriad ingredients that adorned classic cocktails in early 1800s USA, bitters stood out as an elixir that added aroma, depth and complexity to the libations they graced. availability of spirits was limited. After the 1933 In 1920, when Prohibition came into effect, the use of bitters continued, though in a different context. As the sale of alcoholic beverages was illegal, bartenders and mixologists used bitters as medicinal tonics or flavourings for non-alcoholic drinks. While the popularity of bitters in cocktails persisted, the possess medicinal properties. They comprise of an 10 Liquid repeal of Prohibition, cocktail culture, and the use of bitters, experienced a revival that spread globally and continues to evolve to the present day. Roots of an Ancient Tradition Bitters can be traced back to ancient times when they were first crafted as herbal tinctures believed to intense combination of herbs, roots, spices and bark whose flavours are extracted with high-proof alcohol and mellowed through an ageing process, resulting in a potent aromatic concoction. Monastic orders and alchemists carefully guarded the secrets of these

bitters potions, passed down through centuries. While they originally became popular as digestive aids mainly in Europe, they eventually found their way into the burgeoning cocktail culture in the United States and beyond. making. Thus, bitters became a staple in modern mixology and continue to be cherished by cocktail enthusiasts and bartenders alike. Embracing a Global Trend During India’s colonial era, culinary and beverage traditions were heavily influenced by British expatriates who brought over their drinking customs and ingredients. Initially, bitters were primarily used as tonics or digestive aids. The Indian community took to bitters quite easily, finding similarities to Ayurvedic traditions which utilize herbs and spices for medicinal purposes. Angostura, one of the most popular bitters, was created in the early 1800s by Dr. Johann Siegert in Angostura (now Ciodad Bolivar). A versatile formulation, its distinctive blend of herbs, spices, and bitter orange peel became an essential ingredient for many classic cocktails including the Old Fashioned and Manhattan, and went on to add an upgrade to exquisite cocktails such as Vieux Carré, Martinez (predecessor to Martini) and the New Orleans classic, Sazerac. Local herbal concoctions were often blended with imported bitters, leading to the creation of unique elixirs that embraced both Indian and Western traditions. Soon, bitters became an integral part of the Indian The revival of these classic recipes allowed people to cocktail culture, as bars and lounges began to flourish in reconnect with the nostalgic flavours of the past. It also urban centers. Indian mixologists started experimenting coincided with a renewed interest in craft bartending, with various bitters, including classic formulations like leading to a broader appreciation for the art of cocktail Angostura, Peychauds, and Fee Brothers Bitters. In recent years, as the global cocktail renaissance As the global cocktail renaissance reached India, bitters have gained even more popularity and found a niche in the Indian bar community. reached India, bitters have gained even more popularity and found a niche in the Indian bar community. But the international brands are difficult to procure and rarely seen in retail stores. Occasionally, one might chance upon them on e-commerce websites, but such listings Liquid 11

bitters are illegal because with this alcohol content (it can classic and contemporary. Umeshu bitters made from exceed 44%), these products must be registered the maceration of Japanese plum, add a delicate with the State Excise. Given this dearth of supply, and fruitiness to fine Japanese libations. Bixa bitters take despite the history of botanicals and herbs in India, center stage in Brazil. Derived from the annatto seed, there are only a handful of locally-made bitters that they infuse cocktails with a brilliant reddish hue and are yet to significantly permeate our markets. Bab earthy, smoky notes. In Scandinavian countries, Viking Louie have developed alcohol-free aromatic bitters, Birch Bitters, made from the essence of birch leaves thus bypassing the need for alcohol registrations. and bark, pay homage to the region’s lush forests. Bar consultant Valentine Barboza makes Valentino’s Bitters are not only restricted to aromatics. The Italians Premium Bitters whose range has Meyer Lemon, Pink Grapefruit and Coffee, but are export-oriented. Campari, all with varying degrees of bitter components. New Frontiers Across continents, The Germans have a popular digestif called Underberg, visionary mixologists are experimenting with an extensive array of bitters, both Umeshu bitters 12 Liquid have their Amaros, Vermouths, Fernet-Branca and a tonic meant to be had in one shot, and the party favourite Jägermeister.

bitters Indian cocktail drinkers are looking for characterful, nuanced drinks, and bitters play a key role in this. Gulkand for unique bitters, while the tart and vibrant kokum fruit found in the western coastal regions, possesses untapped potential with its tangy and earthy profile. Cardamom, with a complex and effervescent profile reminiscent of menthol, would be another excellent foundation for bitters. These Indian treasures are capable of shining in the world of mixology, infusing cocktails with a touch of home and our cultural heritage. Luxardo, a prestigious European liqueur house, has a range of digestifs and bitters. Their most popular, yet elusive creation Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur, is a clear digestif made with intense marasca cherries, sourced from their own orchards. As are their Bitter Bianco, Bitter Rosso and Aperitivo, all with unique herbs, spices, citrus and wormwood. Luxardo are now available in India through Chenab Impex. Anmol Chandhok, Vice President, explains that Indian cocktail drinkers are looking for characterful, nuanced drinks, and bitters play a key role in this. “As a country steeped in spice traditions, the integration of complex, aromatic flavours into cocktails is a natural evolution.” So, next time you find yourself at a cocktail bar, remember the unsung hero that brings it all together – bitters, a timeless ingredient which is here to reign. L Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born restaurateur, food expert and writer (Nonchalant Gourmand) who strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life. A Kaleidoscope of Possibilities From locally sourced botanicals to the revival of ancient recipes, the palette for experimentation in India is boundless. Imagine a cocktail infused with bitters made from rare Himalayan herbs, or perhaps an infusion of exotic African spices. With the advent of craft cocktails gracing bar menus, I feel a need to look at more local flavours for inspiration. The traditional Gulkand (rose petal preserves infused with aromatic spices) remains surprisingly underutilized as a base Liquid 13

bitters An Odyssey of Bitters Udaipur Sling F rom the ancient elixirs of the Egyptians to the modern mixologist’s creations, bitters have This grand country estate is laid out within perfectly journeyed through the ages and transcended cultures on Udaisagar Lake, where the Aravalis are as yet to become a sought-after elixir for discerning palates. untouched by commercial activity. manicured Baroque gardens on a private island Crafted from a blend of aromatic plants, such as herbs, spices, flowers, roots, bark, fruit, nuts and even Our host and dear friend Rajesh Namby, General cocoa and coffee beans, these medicinal bitters find Manager, insisted on an immersion in the cocktail a unique harmony that when combined with any spirit, experience. “Our cocktails are a harmonious blend of yield brews that go beyond the ordinary. nature’s finest, with bitters sourced from our organic In the world of bespoke mixology, every establishment tells its own tale, much like Raffles Udaipur – the first Indian outpost of the legendary Raffles Hotels gardens. These bitters add depth and character to our drinks and reinforce the magic that lies within each sip.” & Resorts – which is fast emerging as a destination Obeisance is paid at the world-heritage Long Bar, for celebration, and a lifestyle for connoisseurs. where the iconic ‘Sling’ is the magnet. The Udaipur 14 Liquid

bitters Maas bitters delicately adds that certain something to the Udaipur Sling, creating a symphony of rich, spicy and floral flavours. Perhaps inspired by this alchemy, The Long Bar boasts over 30 exclusive bitters, each with its own unique blend of spices, fruits, nuts and botanicals. Most of the bitters served are homegrown by the Raffles horticulture team. The craft of homemade bitters has been embraced, infusing delightful aromas and character into a variety of timeless cocktails. We raise our glasses to the ancient wisdom of herbal infusions, and let the spirit of discovery and craftsmanship guide us through this captivating realm of flavours, paying tribute to the enduring legacy of medicinal bitters, where each drop narrates a story as old as time. L Rajiv Singhal Sling is an inspired imagination of this iconic cocktail, and the thread that weaves the Raffles experience. History meets innovation in each sip, as the exquisite blend of locally-inspired ingredients tells a tale of opulent heritage while invoking the very spirit of Raffles. The Udaipur Sling features local treasures like fennel, coriander, rose water and guava on a base of northern Indian gin. But the true masterpiece is the vegan bitter ‘Lal Maas’, inspired by a dish that celebrates the regal traditions of Rajasthan. Much like a skilled conductor, the nuanced complexity of the Lal “Our cocktails are a harmonious blend of nature’s finest, with bitters sourced from our organic gardens.” Liquid 15

personality Putting India on the Map... Indian bar on the list. This year, 11 bars from India and Nepal made the list. The international acclaim for Indian bars has made international bartenders take note, and draws in bar enthusiasts. Indian bars are raising their game, incorporating sophisticated techniques in crafting cocktails, concocting bitters and infusions and focusing on the experience delivered. Bartenders have also understood the importance of connecting with guests who are no longer impressed by bar menus crammed with options. Cocktail menus consistently reflect the identity and expression of the bartender. Cocktail programmes at fine dining restaurants now get almost as much attention as the food – Bombay Canteen and Masque are thriving examples of restaurants using this modern template. Priyanka Blah T he Indian bartender has come a long way. The evolution which has brought them to a world class standard and led to the presence of Indian bars on the World’s 50 Best Bars and Asia’s 50 Best Bars lists is testament to that journey. My own love affair That said, there is a tangible paucity of professional bartenders here. Unlike with other matured disciplines, India has few institutions dedicated to training and no formal certificate course. Most aspiring bartenders are on their own, their saving grace the emergence of My love affair with the Indian spirits space began with being drawn to the cocktail culture. with the Indian spirits space began with being drawn to the cocktail culture through my travels and when working with a UK spirits firm. I also created a website, The Dram Attic, to review and feature cocktail bars from around the world and put the spotlight on bar personalities and bar culture. Being appointed Academy Chair for Asia’s 50 Best Bars for South Asia plunged me headlong into some of the most exciting and challenging times of the bar space. My responsibility as Chair is to select voters for South Asia. These universally respected lists shine a light on the real bar experience, and the anonymous voters play a key role in assessing bars on many counts. During my first year as Chair, Sidecar was the only 18 Liquid a plethora of internet content and courses. Another significant challenge the segment faces is the success so many Indian mixologists have enjoyed abroad. Some of them have made a major impression in competitive cities like London and New York. Put that in context of the fact that there’s already a dearth of good bartenders here and the lure of international success could make it harder to find and retain good professionals behind the bar. The rise of women bartenders is heartening, while the overall exodus of Indian bartenders in a market already suffering from slim pickings remains a concern. However, the profession has never been better placed in terms of potential and from the looks of it, is headed to being rated among the world’s best.

personality ...Raising the Bar T he bar was a space I instinctively gravitated to, when I first started working at the Hyatt Regency, Delhi, in the late 90s. The privilege of learning the skills under one of the best mentors (an international bartender who visited the hotel annually) coupled with the clarity of knowing that this was what I wanted to do led me to becoming an ‘accidental bartender’. Four and a half years later when asked to move to the Italian restaurant, I took it as a sign that it was time to take my passion for bartending to the next level. I became a freelancer, workings gigs at residences, farmhouses and weddings. This was an important phase when I learned that people’s preferences, body language and behaviour are key to understanding how to enhance their cocktail experiences. In 2002 I opened my first bar, Cocktails & Dreams. Back then most bars resembled nightclubs, dominated by loud music and throbbing lights. I wanted mine to be a place where one can simply enjoy Yangdup Lama made it to the Asia list again, this time recognized for The clarity of knowing that this was what I wanted to do led me to becoming an ‘accidental bartender’. jumping up the most spots. International recognition has brought with it a stellar reputation that we have to retain and nurture while continuing to do what we do. It has led to global collaborations where I showcase Indian flavours and a good cocktail. I took a keen interest in creating the represent the evolution of bartending in this country. cocktail menu and designing the space and furniture. I believe I have contributed to this with the academy Some of the elements I focussed on in the initial years I started early in my career, knowing that I could give contributed to the trends we see today. Recognising back to the industry by mentoring young professionals. the acute shortage of liqueurs on the market I decided The profession has undergone a sea change in to create my own, notably Limoncello and a number perception. The bartender is no longer just a staffer – of infusions. I learned to always use hard rather than s/he is the face of the establishment, and oftentimes hollow ice, which held its form thereby making the a partner. Parents are now supporting their children cocktail consistent for longer. All these little things put to become bartenders – something unimaginable 20 together added up to something great. In 2020, I was pleasantly surprised to find my second bar, Sidecar, made it to Asia’s 50 Best Bars and World’s 50 Best Bars extended list. It clearly wasn’t a one-off – Sidecar years ago. The Indian bartending story still has a long way to go, but it will thrive and pleasantly surprise like a perfectly stirred cocktail. In conversation with Bhisham Mansukhani Liquid 19

insight A ny producer of spirits tries to go beyond selling as much of it as possible to obliging customers. their profile for over two decades, believes there’s Spirits have a distinctly higher purpose – it’s not perception of the brand ambassador in India. “During just about getting the customers to buy, but getting the initial surge of promotions, either an international them to buy into and savour an experience. In the brand ambassador was flown in, or celebrities and days of old, this was a task for the business owners socialites were temporarily commissioned to host themselves, marrying the passion for what they events. But there was no representative or face for any created with making the spirit as visible as possible. spirits brand in India.” Over time, the role passed on to some in their teams, The and as some spirits became a part the luxury industry (earlier dominated by couture, jewellery, watches, cars been a sea change in the qualifications and general change happened incrementally, directly proportional to the rise of high quality standalone bars that were driven by mixologists who had raised their and the like), it came to those christened as Brand game – many of them had international experience Ambassador. This role is one of a sophisticated and or were self-taught. This generation of bartenders knowledgeable custodian and representative of the caught the attention of both legacy spirit companies brand. and the new age homegrown brands. It was the latter India’s brief history of brand ambassadors in the spirits industry has played out in somewhat unique that took the lead in employing and identifying them as brand ambassadors. circumstances, against a backdrop of largely undefined Ashish Dev Kapur, Director of Moods Hospitality, marketing, and total bans on alcohol advertising. Food who has worked with many of these mixologists at and wine writer Antoine Lewis, who has observed his restaurants and bars, believes that “ambassadors The New Brand Ambassador 20 Liquid

Photo: iStock insight aren’t merely pushing their brands, they are enriching the industry with skill and creativity, training bartenders and creating successful cocktail menus.” Feruzan Bilimoria of Third Eye Distillery (makers of Stranger & Sons gin) went from being a mixologist to brand ambassador, to heading the company’s brand India’s history of brand ambassadors for spirits has played out in unique circumstances, against a backdrop of bans on alcohol advertising. ambassador program. “With a hotel background and being the company’s third employee, I had the leeway to define the role for which there were no specific to bring together all the elements that go into making expectations. I worked to create unique experiences, that happen,” she asserts. connect with trade and consumers, and focus on brand advocacy.” the approach of the modern brand ambassador. It isn’t merely about making the brand look good communicating emphasis on consumer education and engagement has never been more important than The term ‘advocacy’, Bilimoria believes, defines but The the essence and holistic understanding of what the product is about, and how to best and most responsibly experience it. As mentor to brand ambassadors, she expects them at the least to be professionally-trained and in the present moment, according to Bacardi brand ambassador Ishrat Kaur. “The Indian consumer today is well-travelled, discerning and willing to pay more for a premium drink, but wants to know its story, what makes it compelling and how best to drink it. And this is the role of the brand ambassador today – to tell that story and define the brand’s consumer-facing experienced bartenders. “You have to build and strategy,” Kaur said. She believes mentoring up-and- sustain relationships with the stakeholders to make coming bartenders and proliferating the cocktail them notice and connect with the brand, so they buy culture in key markets is also an essential part of her it because they prefer it. The brand ambassador has role. Liquid 21

insight Feruzan Bilimoria Ishrat Kaur Another key attribute that’s almost indispensable for locally produced spirits in India, for both consumers and trade.” Dhariwal also points to the diversity of profiles already forming with the emergence of trade ambassadors, who focus on training and brand education. brand ambassadors today is that of social media influence. Gaurav Sareen, brand ambassador for Monkey Shoulder, says that a ‘dark market’ like India where advertising is prohibited and social media is the most relatable channel for the target audience, creates a perfect storm that makes an Instagram profile a must, not just a peripheral part of the job. “It’s a platform to showcase the brand and communicate with the consumer, which is an essential complement to the offline role we play as the face of the brand,” he Clearly, brand ambassadors have taken on a significant proportion for the spirits industry as a whole, and for individuals for whom this modern and still-fluid profile could well be aspirational. L Bhisham Mansukhani observed. This role has evolved from being a conspicuous form of indirect sales to the point that it bears no resemblance to the fleeting notion of it two decades ago, and as it continues to take shape, has already proved vital in the continual success of Indian brands. Rakshay Dhariwal, owner of Agave spirits maker Pistola, believes brand ambassadors have been key to creating visibility and appeal for the new-age brands and “have fundamentally changed the perception of Brand ambassadors have been key to creating visibility and appeal for the new-age brands. Gaurav Sareen 22 Liquid

Photo: bastariya.com tradition Salphi Exquisite Nectar from F Bastar rom the mystical hills of Manali to the serene backwaters of Kerala; from the lush hills of regions. It is a mystical potion that transcends its Sikkim to the arid deserts of Rajasthan, India boasts a profound communion with sacred, time-honoured a rich tapestry of indigenous beverages, each with its traditions and institutions. unique cultural significance. These elixirs have defied A Tradition Rooted in Culture societal taboos associated with alcohol, integrating themselves into the fabric of their respective societies, where festivals and celebrations intermingle with capacity to refresh and intoxicate; rather, it embodies These beverages are best enjoyed when shared amongst a convivial assembly, often amid bustling marketplaces, where individuals of all ages, genders libation. and backgrounds partake from leaf cups, locally known The Trifecta as chipdi. Here, perpetual festivity reigns, and the air At the heart of India, Bastar, with its lush forests and is laden with the light-hearted banter of friends and tribal heritage, is home to a triumvirate of traditional strangers. These elixirs also play a pivotal role in all brews: Mahua, Handia, and the reigning champion, rites of passage. Whether the exultation of birth, the Salphi. Mahua, derived from the blossoms of the Mahua tree, holds socio-religious significance in Bastar’s folklore. Handia is a rice-based beverage fermented merriment of marriage, or the sombreness of loss, they are integral components of both joyous and melancholic occasions, acting as conduits for shared with an assortment of herbs, revered for its modest experiences and expressions of unity and connection. alcohol content and invigorating properties. Salphi, The Essence of Salphi the effervescent nectar of natural fermentation, takes Salphi centre stage, particularly in the Bijapur and Dantewada alcoholic beverages with its rapid preparation. It is distinguishes itself from other traditional Liquid 23

tradition The outcome is a refreshing elixir with a mild flavour, reminiscent of coconut water but with subtle undertones of bitterness and a hint of pungency. Salphi does not have a long shelf life and must be drunk fresh, preferably within an hour of its collection. Overfermented Salphi can cause severe indigestion. Bastar is home to a triumvirate of traditional brews: Mahua, Handia, and the reigning champion, Salphi. derived from the sap of the Salphi tree which thrives in The Remarkable Tree Bastar’s climate. The process of extracting Salphi is as Caryota urens, the Salphi tree, is a unique species within the palm family. Indigenous to regions such as Sri Lanka, India, Myanmar and Malaysia, this arboreal the Salphi tree, suspending an earthen pot from a sturdy branch. With deft precision, they incise the tree using a tool known as Haasiya, permitting the sap to flow into the waiting vessel. The yeast in the air starts the fermentation of the sap as soon as it begins to drip from the branch, and more often than not, the left-over yeast at the base of the container also aids the process. The sap is typically collected at sunrise, sometimes Photo: Anjar Nabi around sunset. Tapping the sap 24 Liquid giant boasts an impressive stature, featuring a solitary trunk with distinct leaf-scar rings, culminating in a magnificent leaf crown that measures an imposing six metres in both width and height. The leaves of the tree are triangular and vividly green, extending to impressive lengths of three-and-a-half metres, tethered to petioles measuring 60 centimetres. These leaves give rise to inflorescences bearing pendent Photo: Vivante Creations captivating as it is straightforward. Tribal men ascend Bastar’s Dhokra art

Photo: exploreindia.tv tradition Ghotul The Salphi tree takes 15-20 years to reach maturity and yields sap for 5-10 years of its lifetime. not dens of debauchery. Rather, they serve as sanctuaries, where young unmarried boys and girls congregate to partake in the arts of dance and song, liberated from the constraints imposed by society. Here, they not only learn tribal customs, rituals, and life skills but also explore their emotions and affections clusters of white, unisexual flowers, which mature into for one another. Salphi assumes a pivotal role in the small, round drupes (fruit), displaying a vibrant red hue Ghotul experience. A few sips of this enchanting elixir and encasing a solitary seed. unshackles tongues, emboldens consciences, and The Tree’s Bounty enhances articulation to foster an atmosphere of The Salphi tree proffers more than just sap for the crafting of Salphi. Its trunk conceals a cache of starch, romance and levity, enabling the young boys and girls to express their feelings with candour and authenticity. and juice extracted from its tender flower shoots can More Than a Libation be condensed to produce a saccharine syrup. The Unsurprisingly, Salphi remains enigmatic beyond the tree’s cabbage is edible and may be enjoyed raw or confines of Bastar’s tribal lands, probably due to its cooked. In Sri Lanka, where it is known as kithul, the ephemeral nature and reliance on natural fermentation. Salphi tree is renowned for its kithul treacle – a dark, In the words of Greek poet Homer, “The wild wine sets viscous syrup used as a sweetener in both Sri Lankan the wisest man to sing at the top of his lungs, laugh and Western gastronomy. The Salphi tree takes 15-20 like a fool – it drives the man to dancing…tempts him years to reach maturity and yields sap for 5-10 years to blurt out stories better never told.” Salphi does all of its lifetime. Its contribution to the income of Bastar’s this to the Bastaris, perhaps more. families is substantial, providing sums ranging from R10,000-12,000 annually. A Mesmerizing Union with Ghotuls Salphi shares an intimate connection with another remarkable tribal institution in Bastar – the Ghotuls. Contrary to common misconception, Ghotuls are Let us raise a toast to Salphi – an elixir that symbolizes the deep-rooted culture of Bastar and the bounty that nature has bestowed upon its tribal denizens. L Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as Secretary to Government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog. Liquid 25

mexico Mezcal Traditions Going Back in Time I n Mexico, plants are part of our culture. Our ancestors understood and celebrated their spiritual Varieties like Espadín, Arroqueño, Cenizo, Bicuishe and healing powers. Among many such plants is the a unique taste and aroma. Agave loves altitude; it agave. The word ‘agave’ means admirable or noble. grows mostly in areas that are part mountains, part Mezcal, which means ‘cooked agave’ in Náhuatl desert, with very hot days but cool nights. There (an indigenous language), is a spirit produced from are twenty estates in Mexico where agave grow, the agave that has travelled around the globe in the last most popular being Durango, Tamaulipas, San Luis decade. More than a spirit, mezcal is the essence Potosí, Guanajuato, Puebla, Guerrero, Michoacán and representation of our ancestors. and most famous of all, Oaxaca. Mezcal is made from several species of agave, which One such area is Nombre de Dios in Durango, where differ due to soil, altitude and sunlight conditions. decades ago, I discovered my love for mezcal. Going 26 Liquid and Mexicano can be used, each one expressing

mexico Agave loves altitude; it grows mostly in areas that are part mountains, part desert. back in time, I recall visiting some tiny, picturesque palenques (mezcal distilleries) in Durango. We would watch the families involved in the production – cutting, smashing plants and cooking them. The environment was mellow and full of sweetness and smokiness. Waiting for our taste of the amazing spirit they produced was the best part – mountains, people, wood smoke, dogs, fog and a lot of kindness surrounding us. still remaining green and strong, strongly influenced these precious plants up in the mountains while they their culture. They learned to use agave in different were walking and hunting. Perhaps the magnificent ways, extracting fibres to build huts and tools, and development of a lonely plant in the middle of eventually making tepache which is the fermented nowhere, surviving hot days and dry weather and juice of the plant. Photo: Jose De Jesus Chorion DelShutterstock The ancestors of these indigenous families discovered Agave farming Liquid 27

Photo: mezcalistas.com mexico Here the agave is cooked in pit ovens, fashioned with river stones covered by a mix of firewood from oaks, banana leaves and agave fibers. This stage can last many days; the longer the cooking time, the smokier the final flavour! Once the hearts are soft and perfectly cooked, they become golden and shiny in colour, releasing the fragrance of melaza (molasses) and piloncillo (brown sugar) – aromas of earthiness and pure tradition. The agave wedges are placed in a round circle on the floor. A huge stone tire called Tahona is pulled by horse or donkey to crush the wedges and extract the juice. The whole family helps, using small vessels to collect this valuable liquid into a wood container, in which it is fermented. Traditionally, fermentation takes one to four weeks, depending on the local temperature and producer style, and is carried out without any external or laboratory yeast. Agave needs many years to grow and develop the right amount of starch to produce alcohol. The heart of the plant or ‘pineapple’ grows for many years in darkness beneath the earth. Most plants need 7-12 years and some around 20 or even 30 to develop completely. For instance, the rare Tepeztate, a subspecies of a Marmorata agave, grows only in the wild under very specific conditions, making this varietal very unique and expensive. The ‘Maestros Mezcaleros’ (traditional mezcal producers, who Photo: ProtoplasmaKid Tahoma pulled by a horse Finally comes distillation, the moment to extract ‘the soul’ of the agave. The fermented juice is placed into a copper alembic, a mechanism introduced to the American continent by Arabian alchemists. The spirit produced from the first distillation has around 20% ABV and is called ordinario. The majority of producers distil mezcal twice to avoid losing aromas learned from their ancestors how to make this spirit) manage one or two Tepeztate harvests in their whole lifetime, if they are very lucky! In our culture, it is believed that the agave plant is sacrificed to give birth to mezcal. Harvest or Jima is a beautiful but sad stage when this magnificent plant dies in the anxious wait to kiss our lips with its liquid soul. Harvest usually takes place in the early mornings. The leaves are stripped away and the hard and fibrous hearts are gathered. The mountainous landscape makes it hard for modern vehicles to go through, so traditionally, horses and donkeys are used to carry the agave hearts to the palenques. 28 Liquid Distillation

mexico and flavours. The more distillations, the higher the alcohol content. Traditional mezcal has an average of 35-55% ABV and is bottled after distillation without any oak ageing. ‘Puntas de Mezcal’ has the strongest alcohol content (over 60% ABV). Purists tend to favour the crystalline and non-aged mezcal, deeming this style to be the most authentic. But there are also more exotic styles made by introducing into the distillation alembic a range of living and non-living elements – spices, fruits and even hens and turkeys! One might also find bottles that contain a worm or a scorpion. The belief behind these additions is that they introduce the spirit of different elements from nature to the drink. Today there are hundreds of brands of mezcal, made by a range of producers – large and small. International sommeliers and experts extol its flavours, mezcal features in international events and Puntas de Mezcal competitions and even rare and expensive bottles I see mezcal as a ‘meditation spirit’, one we partake have a huge demand in the market. of both in sorrow, when we drink to our departed, and also in noisy and happy celebrations. We, as Mexicans, are pleased and proud of what this industry and tradition represents. L Ángeles Sánchez is a sommelier, WSET diploma holder, educator and restaurateur who loves wine, mezcal and all things Mexico. Photo: Triff/Shutterstock Traditional mezcal has an average of 35-55% ABV and is bottled after distillation without any oak ageing. Mezcal with scorpion Mezcal with worm Liquid 29

gin T behind The Oval cricket ground) in 1958, at a site once occupied by the Haywards Military Pickle Factory. In 1908, the production of Beefeater moved to Lambeth. Needing more space to keep up with demand, Beefeater finally moved to its present home in Kennington (just By 1963, Beefeater accounted for three out of every four bottles of gin imported into the USA and was the gin selected for the maiden voyage of the Queen Elizabeth II ocean liner from Southampton to New York. After almost 100 years of family ownership, the Burroughs sold Beefeater to Whitbread in 1987. And in 2005, Beefeater was acquired by spirits conglomerate Pernod Ricard. he first record of Beefeater Gin dates back to 1876, noted in the company papers of James Burrough Ltd, alongside other brands then made by the company such as James Burrough London Dry and Ye Old Chelsey gin. Originally established as John Taylor & Son at the Chelsea Distillery in London in 1820, the company was renamed after its new owner in 1863. Beefeater Gin A Brief History 30 Liquid

Photo: BBC gin Beefeaters Grand Duke of Tuscany, who visited the English Court The Yeomen Warders of His Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London are known popularly as ‘Beefeaters’. The name is thought to derive from a reference to the Yeomen by Cosimo III de’ Medici, (of Charles II) in 1669. He wrote: “A very large ration of Photo: SonnySix What’s a ‘Beefeater’? beef is given to them daily at the court, and they might be called Beef-eaters.” As depicted on the Beefeater Gin label, Yeoman Warders wear a distinctive uniform of a royal red tunic with purple facings and stripes and gold lace ornaments; red knee-breeches and red stockings; flat hats; and black shoes with red, white, and blue rosettes. How Gin is Made Gin is a distilled alcoholic drink that derives its flavour from juniper berries. It is produced by macerating juniper and other botanicals in neutral spirit. The spirit is made from a base of grain, such as wheat or barley, which is fermented and then distilled (as with whisky). By 1963, Beefeater accounted for three out of every four bottles of gin imported into the USA Gin Still Liquid 31

gin other added ingredients other than water; and has a minimum alcoholic strength by volume of 37.5%. Gin is commonly mixed with tonic to make a ‘gin and tonic’, or used as a cocktail base. It is rarely drunk neat. The Perfect G&T Desmond Payne was Master Distiller at Beefeater for 27 years. This is his ‘perfect’ gin and tonic recipe: • 3 lumps of ice • 1 part Beefeater London Dry Gin • 3 parts unflavoured, chilled tonic water • Lemon wedge garnish (not squeezed and definitely not rubbed round the rim of the glass) • Keep the tonic in the fridge – you don’t want to melt the ice too quickly • When Seville oranges are in season they make a wonderful substitute for the lemon garnish. Cheers! Kennington Most of Beefeater’s gins are made in the London Gin/ London Dry style, which emerged in the 19th century with the invention of the Coffey still that enabled production of a highly rectified (nearly pure) spirit. The high distillation strength removed the unpleasant flavours found in other gins so the new spirits could be sold unsweetened or ‘dry’. Since 2009, the London Gin/London Dry style has been legally defined by the European Union (EU Spirit Drink Regulation 110/2008) as a type of distilled gin that does not contain added sweetening exceeding 0.1 gram of sugar per litre of the final product; does not contain any Most of Beefeater’s gins are made in the London Gin/London Dry style 32 Liquid

gin A Selection of Beefeater Gins with the classic Beefeater Gin aromas of juniper and citrus. London Dry Gin The 1895 Beefeater recipe book specifies that nine botanicals are essential for its London Dry: juniper; Angelica root; Angelica seeds; coriander seeds; liquorice; almonds; orris root; Seville oranges; and lemon peel. The recipe remains unchanged. A full-bodied, clean-flavoured gin that London Garden A herbaceous twist on the classic Beefeater London Dry Gin, using the standard nine botanicals with the addition of lemon verbena and thyme. L Stuart George graduated from Warwick and is a WSET Diploma in Wines & Spirits since 2000. His Arden Fine Wines sells fine and rare wine. smells of juniper and citrus. 24 A blend of 12 natural botanicals that results in a rich, smooth style of gin. Pink Strawberry A strawberry gin made using the same recipe as Beefeater London Dry, plus an infusion of natural strawberry flavouring to give it a fruity strawberry twist. Burrough’s Reserve Distilled and then rested in red and Bordeaux white wine oak casks. Unusually for a gin, Burrough’s Reserve is best drunk neat. Blood Orange In 1876, James Burrough hand-selected oranges from London’s Covent Garden market to create an orange gin. Over 140 years later, this recipe inspired the creation of Beefeater Blood Orange. A bold, finely-balanced gin with the fresh citrus flavours of blood orange contrasting Liquid 33

bar M any of you would be familiar with the centrality of club life in Kolkata. There is a vast array of them, a club as ‘adda’, which he believes is a natural part including the Calcutta Club, The Tollygunge, Saturday where one belongs, where one can count on congenial Club, Royal Calcutta Golf Club, The Bengal Rowing company and interesting conversation. Or as Manish Club, etc. While many of these are sporting clubs, one Narain, committee member of the Saturday Club puts thing all of them have in common is that they all have it, “The club bars are our local watering holes, where bars, and these club bars are the hubs for Kolkata’s people stop to chat and relax with friends before thriving social life. heading home after the day’s work.” Many of Kolkata’s clubs go back to the British Raj. Another major reason that people favour the club bar is What began as safe, contained social spaces for the simply that the price of alcohol is so reasonable (in most British, akin to the local pub back home, in time evolved cases just over the Maximum Retail Price) relative to into neutral arenas where Kolkata’s landed gentry came restaurants and hotels. Also, beverage companies vie to mingle with the ruling class. Raja Mookerjee, a senior to provide promotions and schemes to these bars and member of the Calcutta Club, explains the concept of the ready and willing ‘captive market’ that they provide. of the local Bengali psyche. ‘Adda’ refers to a place Club Bars Kolkata Musings 34 Liquid

bar Light Horse Bar, Saturday Club Each club bar has a unique personality, and like-minded people tend to gravitate towards a specific bar, almost as though it chooses them rather than the other way around. The clubs have thus continued to flourish and bring vibrancy to Kolkata life. The Saturday Club There is a bar at the Saturday Club that I have had the opportunity to visit on multiple occasions. Very informal, it has flexible seating and relaxed casual wear is permitted. People start the evening in their own small groups and the age-group ranges from 25-75 years. Over the course of the evening, the different groups morph into a large common party, spilling out into the lawns of the club, quite like an extended living room. In addition, members can connect their phones via Bluetooth to the sound system and play DJ, getting different party moods going from early evening through closing time. The Calcutta Club A very different example is the Men’s Bar at the Calcutta Club. This club counts the landed gentry and bureaucrats of Bengal in its membership. The bar here These club bars are the hubs for Kolkata’s thriving social life. Calcutta Club Liquid 35

bar Cruickshank Bar, Tollygunge Club is more formal; members tend to dress up, jeans are not allowed after 7pm and briefcases and laptops are not permitted at any time. The Men’s Bar has a Friday night tradition where members meet from 8-9 pm to discuss matters of consequence – including politics, literature, books and football. Bollywood discussions are frowned upon. It is said that in the days of yore, on Friday evenings, every time a member walked in to the bar, he would say “Sabko Poocho” (ask everyone); and a round of chhota (small) pegs would be served to other members standing at the bar. The Tollygunge Club The sports centric Tollygunge Club has one of the best golf courses in the country along with facilities that include horse-riding, swimming, squash, tennis, etc. Their 18th Shamiana is an outdoor bar that was originally set up for players to gather after a game of golf. Here you are likely to find a mix of people in different sports gear enjoying a ginger-barley lemonade, a chilled draft beer or a G&T, accompanied by delectable snacks and invariable discussions on who played better and who won. The Twain Often Meet Many of Kolkata’s club bars have a dart board (who decided that a small, sharp flying object mixes well with alcohol is anyone’s guess – but that’s Kolkata for you!) and on an average weekday evening you will inevitably The Calcutta Club counts the landed gentry and bureaucrats of Bengal in its membership and the bar here is more formal. Darts League 36 Liquid

bar Nagaraj Bar, Bengal Club see a bunch of people playing darts at the bar. As sport is central to most of these clubs, it’s unsurprising that this fun indoor pastime has now evolved into a highly competitive and keenly followed ‘Darts League’. Some have become so skilled that they compete outside the home state. A friend of mine commented that the loss of sales from reduced consumption by the dart players has been more than made up for by the large crowds that gather to watch the games! What’s in a Name? Another interesting facet of the bars is their names. The Nagaraj bar at the Bengal Club is said to have acquired its name after a cobra was found coiled at the bar many decades ago. For readers interested in a quiz, try and guess the ‘why’ for the following: the Cruickshank bar at the Tollygunge Club; the Maharaj Dhiraj of Burdwan Lounge at the Calcutta Club and the Light Horse Bar at the Saturday Club. Here’s a hint – there is a Victoria Cross that hangs at the Light Horse Bar whose authenticity is endlessly debated by members – but that is a whole other story! Some bars are named for popular brands – such as the Johnnie Walker bar and the Antiquity bar. Growing up in Kolkata, the Saturday Club where I swam every day was intrinsic to my childhood. I stay here during my annual winter visits to Kolkata and the bar is where I meet old friends and acquaintances and revisit that way of life. And every time I leave, I find myself wishing someone would open an annex to a Kolkata club bar in Gurgaon, where I now live. L Amit Aggarwal lis a Kolkata lover who also enjoys adventure travel, yoga and Adda. Calcutta Club Liquid 37

news Preiner Wine Comes to India After extensive tastings in Austria organised by Advantage Austria, Palash short-listed Preiner, and with some hand-holding by Group Ritu, signed up with Preiner Wein for India. “Robert is a talented new-generation winemaker, passionate about quality and innovation. With Andrea, they have a professional approach to building their brand in India.” Palash has chosen to launch two somewhat difficult-topronounce indigenous grape varietals – Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt. “They may not be so well-known, but they are representative of the wine offer from Austria.” Their simple labels reflect their terroir. The Gruner Veltliner label depicts the reed from Lake Neusiedlersee while Zweigelt shows the salt aster plant whose bluish-purple hues mirror the colour of their wine. Palash is a young entrepreneur with a rapidly growing portfolio focused entirely on wines. He offers a wide selection of reasonably-priced quality wines and is optimistic: “Indian wine consumers are becoming more and more interested in trying new and different wines.” These two variants reached the retail shelves and wine lists in September 2023 and are gaining popularity with Mumbaikars and visitors to the city eager to try new offers. Priced in retail at T2,600 for the Gruner Veltliner and T2,800 for Zweigelt, the wines are also available at some Bandra restaurants. Preiner Wein from the Burgenland in Austria exported their first ever consignment to India in May 2023. The family-owned wine company is helmed by Italian Soirée by Aristol young couple Andrea and Robert Preiner, who New entrant to the world of wines and spirits in traded jobs in finance and law to take the family India, Aristol, hosted a gastronomical experience vineyards to the next level. The launch has been at Shangri-La New Delhi to showcase Piccini, one facilitated by Preiner Wein’s Indian importer distributor of the most popular wine brands in their portfolio. partner, Hover Barrel, founded by Palash Vaswani. Co-founded by Sumit Sehgal and Ratik Singal, Aristol’s The Preiners believe that “a new, dynamic and mission is to bring fine wines and spirits to India. Sumit growing market is a good opportunity for our wines,” has been a wines and spirits importer and brand builder and their enthusiasm for India is undimmed by high for over 15 years. Ratik brings the experience of a tariffs. Creative and willing to experiment, Robert decades-old family business in wines and spirits. Sumit is forever pushing boundaries, and this is evident is excited: “The delightful spectrum of Italian flavours in their unique, complex and flavourful wines. under one trusted name is a hit with our clients. We are 40 Liquid

news Middle East. The company features a collection of ten premium Californian wine brands including their flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, Decoy, Goldeneye and Calera, and has been exporting to India for over two decades now. Coveney emphasized the company’s overarching philosophy for The Duckhorn Portfolio: “The wines are produced with a restraint reminiscent of the Old World. The wines express a balanced style – they aren’t overly heavy and the yields in the vineyard are low while in the winery, there wasn’t overextraction.” Interestingly, Coveney explained that the company ages most of its dedicated to nurturing the affection for the Piccini family and their magnificent wines.” wines in old French oak rather than local American barrels, which allows their integral flavours to shine through rather than be dominated by the predictable and overpowering Wines from some selected Piccini estates – Piccini notes of new oak. Touching on the terroir of Californian Prosecco, Piccini Pinot Grigio 2022, Torre Mora Etna wine country, he said the vineyards benefit from maritime Rosso 2018, Valiano Chianti Classico 2018, Piccini fog that arises from the ocean and drifts inland to sit atop Brunello di Montalcino 2018 – were paired with Chef the vineyards, cooling the fruit after a long day under the Sawhney’s delectable six-course spread. sun and allowing it to ripen and develop its flavours. Lorenzo Beconi, Piccini’s Asia-Pacific and Middle East Arguably their most famous winery, Duckhorn Vineyards Head, was very optimistic. “Despite the operational is based in Napa Valley. Founded in 1976 by Dan and challenges and high taxes, we have been growing here for Margaret Duckhorn, it was the region’s first estate to the last 10 years. India is a market of ambitious millennials bottle and sell a premium Merlot at the time. “45 years and there is untapped potential to be harnessed.” ago, the vision of Dan and Margaret Duckhorn was to make the market believe in the potential of a high-end Piccini began its journey in 1882 in the heart of the Merlot. Today it is still right up there,” said Coveney. Chianti Classico region and is the fifth largest winery in Tuscany. The visibly identifiable orange colour on its Speaking labels symbolises dynamism, innovation and originality. engagement in India for The Duckhorn Portfolio, about Still family-owned, the 4th generation Mario Piccini has Coveney said he had met with USDA and American led the brand’s expansion to more than 100 countries. Embassy officials potential who trade work and closely consumer with the Duckhorn Masterclass in India The Duckhorn Portfolio hosted a series of masterclasses across India in early October, showcasing wines shipped to India by importer Rad Elan. The Mumbai leg, held at The Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai, was conducted by Karl Coveney, director of sales for Asia Pacific, Africa and the Liquid 41

news Californian wine industry, as a result of which tastings and events in upcoming months are in the works. The three wines tasted included The Decoy Sauvignon Blanc 2021, which was an easy drinking white wine, expressing tropical fruit, crisp acidity with traces of flint and minerality, while the Duckhorn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, aged for 16 months in new and old French oak, tasted of black fruit, dark chocolate and firm tannins. The Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot 2019, produced from the iconic Three Palms vineyard fruit, has a palate of plum, cherry, blackcurrant compote, blueberry and crushed rose petal, with floral tones and rounded tannins flowing to a long, elegant finish. Two Hands Tasting in Mumbai is the champion, and we focus on nurturing the vines and the soil with an organic approach.” He guided the tasting of seven wines – Angels’ Share, Shiraz 2020; Brave Faces, GMS 2020; Gnarly Dudes, Shiraz 2020; Sexy Beast, Cabernet Sauvignon 2022; Bella’s Garden Shiraz 2021; Tenacity Old Vine Shiraz 2022; and Holy Grail Shiraz, 2021. Two Hands has featured 13 times over the last 20 years in the Wine Spectator Top 100; Sexy Beast Cabernet Sauvignon and Bella’s Garden Shiraz have garnered the most attention. Holy Grail Shiraz is the top wine of the estate and is produced from grapes picked from a single vineyard (where clones from parcels across vineyards in the state are planted) and aged for 18 months under French oak. “Two Hands is up there with the best. Our journey to position premium Australian wines has been very rewarding,” said Vishal Kadakia, co-founder of Wine Park. Court of Master Sommeliers in India The Court of Master Sommeliers organised its Introductory and Certified Sommeliers programmes in September this year at the newly opened Grand Hyatt Gurgaon. The call for enrolment was responded to by 45 students (28 for Introductory and 17 for Certified) and included candidates from India, Nepal, Qatar, Singapore, Dubai, Russia and the Maldives. As in the past years, the course was entirely run by Two Hands Wines from Barossa Valley in South Australia four Master Sommeliers. Dimitri Mesnard MS, Ronan and their importer, Wine Park, hosted a tasting of their Sayburn MS, Gearoid Devaney MS, and Edouard Oger wines for the hospitality and retail trade at the Four MS travelled to India to conduct the courses over a Seasons Mumbai. For the last two years, three wines of span of three days. The certification involves a written the Picture Series label have been sold in India. theory exam and practical wine service exam. That the students came impressively well prepared, having done The visiting proprietor, Pierre-Henri Morel shared his plenty of pre-course study, was observed by the MS philosophy: “We have always focused on highlighting Tutors. 21 qualified as Introductory Sommeliers and 11 the regional identity of the Shiraz grape. The vineyard earned the Certified Sommelier pin. 42 Liquid

news Commerce & Industry, collaborated to host the fifth edition of the World Coffee Conference in Bengaluru from 24-28 September 2023. It was held in Karnataka, India’s coffee heartland and largest coffee-bean producer. This was the first time the WCC has been held in India – the seventh largest producer of coffee in the world. CMS has become the premier examining body for Sommeliers worldwide. It was established with education as its charter. Only 269 candidates have earned the prestigious title of Master Sommelier since the first examination was held in London in 1969. The letters MS are coveted and much sought after. In 2017, Akshay Gharat and Viraj Sawant, founders of Indian School of Beverages, started to deliver the Introductory and Certified Sommelier levels of the fourlevel programme. “Our mission was to bring international qualifications to India so that aspiring sommeliers could benchmark against global standards.” More than 240 students have embarked on this journey in India. 125 of them have passed the Introductory Course and 52 new Certified Sommeliers have been minted. CMS in India elevates the standards of sommelier education and empowers professionals to navigate the world of beverages with confidence and finesse. A new generation of skilled sommeliers are being groomed. They will contribute to the landscape of the wine industry in India and help it grow exponentially. India hosts World Coffee Conference The four-day congress brought together the who’s who of coffee from over 80 countries, including global decision makers, brand representatives, producers, roasters, exporters, specialty coffee experts, small farmers, entrepreneurs and policy makers. It was inaugurated by Hon’ble Minister of Commerce, Piyush Goyal who was proud that India was hosting WCC – a unique distinction and recognition for Indian coffee. This year’s theme focused on ‘Sustainability through Circular Economy and Regenerative Agriculture’. The WCC schedule included field visits to coffee plantations, skilling workshops, wide-ranging seminars, a coffee museum and networking events with B2B exhibitions. Sunil D’Souza, CEO of Tata Consumer Products, highlighted the changes in the landscape of coffee technology and consumer preferences. “Technological advancements are making coffee farming more like science fiction,” he said. Suresh Narayanan, Chairman of Nestle India, stated that every cup of Nescafe served UK-based International Coffee Organisation and Coffee Board of India, a subsidiary of the Indian Ministry of anywhere across the globe has an India connection. Speaking at the occasion, Dr KG Jagadeesha, CEO Liquid 43

news of the Coffee Board, said that “changed perceptions around our coffees should propel exports, helping India build a strong brand in global markets.” Biddenden. Julia Trustram Eve of WineGB was proud: “This tasting is the landmark event on our calendar, and it’s exciting that it’s bigger than ever before.” WCC was a vibrant and memorable show which facilitated crucial discussions about the future of the coffee industry. India has made its pitch to the global coffee world. Individual exhibitors had separate tables. Some larger producers custom designed their table space. Regional vineyard associations took some of the new and smaller commercial producers under their umbrella. Highlighting the overall current emphasis on sustainability, this was the theme chosen for a free pour table. A tangible step to reducing carbon footprint was the tasting booklet powered by Bottlebooks, a digital-only offering. The trophy winners from the WineGB Awards 2023 featured at a focus tasting table. WineGB Trade & Press Tasting in London The diversity on offer reflected the vibrancy of the wine industry in England and Wales. The tasting highlighted the growth and the potential of these wines, which are consistently showing better quality. Producers were unanimous about the benefits to their wines as climate becomes more favourable to the vines. Sam Linter, Chair of WineGB, summed up: “English sparkling wine has established itself as a category and there is interest in what else is on offer. The industry is growing up, but there is still a long way to go.” Sula’s Tryst with Tourists This year, Independence Day marked a landmark The Wines of Great Britain Trade & Press Tasting was held at the Battersea Arts Centre, London, this year. This much-awaited annual event that takes place on the first Tuesday of September, this year saw 67 producers occasion in India’s wine tourism history. Sula Vineyards reported its highest ever numbers for visitors, tastings and revenues over a weekend at both its Nashik and Bengaluru facilities. representing 75% of the overall industry showcase Revenues over the three days of the 12-15 August around 300 wines. extended weekend touched R2.08 crore, an astounding The Tasting presented a unique opportunity for trade and 40% higher than the previous record of R1.47 crore, media professionals to taste the best wines of the country with 13 August setting a new single day record for and discover the ever-expanding range and scope of revenues at R82 lakhs. 11,670 visitors flocked to styles, besides meeting the producers themselves. the two sites over the weekend. A final tally of 4,700 Giants like Nyetimber, Chapel Down, Gusbourne and individual tastings was reported, a massive jump on Balfour co-exhibited with pioneering Vranken Pommery the 3,600 tastings recorded for the same period in the and Coates & Seely, and the historic Hambledon and previous year. 44 Liquid

news dustbins were distributed to the retailers. In the first month of the pilot, a daily average of 50+ kilograms of plastic waste was sent for recycling. Tidy Trails aims to ensure that all shop-generated plastic waste goes to waste collectors for segregation before being recycled into useful items like benches and chairs to be distributed across parks and offices. The campaign in Agra was inaugurated by Minister of State for Environment, Forests and Climate Change Ashwini Kumar Choubey. Appreciating the global giant’s initiative, the minister stated: “By combining the innovation and resources of the private sector, Shares of the publicly-listed Sula Vineyards also saw a rise of 4% in this period. A big contributor to the new wave of wine tourism in India, Sula’s wine-tasting terrace in Nashik set the stage for the company in 2005 when they began with an average of ten visitors a day. Wine tourism has since grown from a rarefied niche interest to a year-round tourism attraction. Better air connectivity to Nashik has allowed wine tourists to pour in from around the country. The recently completed Mysuru expressway has also brought the Domaine Sula facility to within an easy two-hour drive of Bengaluru. Pepsi Cleans Up Agra the government’s administrative strength and public responsibility, we can forge a path towards a cleaner, greener India.” Pepsico India has expanded its eco-initiative Tidy Trails to Agra, UP in August this year. Focused on education and awareness around plastic waste management, the drive has been launched in partnership with The Social Lab (TSL) and with support from the Agra Nagar Nigam. The initiative was kicked off with a dedicated mobile van deployed to collect plastic waste from over 500 shopping establishments across five market associations in the city. Over 500 specially branded Pepsico has launched various initiatives around plastic waste management in Uttar Pradesh to ‘help build a world where plastic never becomes waste’. The Tidy Trails campaign was first launched in 2021 in MathuraVrindavan, to encourage local citizens to keep their environment clean and set an example for other communities. As part of the program, 25,000 kilograms of plastic was collected from 800 establishments across the city. Awareness drives, events, nukkadnataks (street theatre), and competitions were used Liquid 45

news to successfully reach 6.2 lakh people and drive behavioural change toward responsible plastic waste management. Ahmed Elsheikh, President Pepsico India, stated that the company’s ‘purpose philosophy’ is to keep sustainability front and centre of their business. “We are celebrating the Hon’ble Prime Minister’s call of accomplishing through determination (Sankalp Se Siddhi) to make India clean and safe,” he added. AG Barr Fizzes in Mumbai cream soda. “Cream soda is a soft drink many Indians grew up with decades ago and we’re bringing it back along with six other flavours,” Dewani said. The Irn Bru range being shipped in includes Irn Bru, Irn Bru Sugar Free and Irn Bru Extra. Dewani revealed that Irn Bru’s new line of energy drinks will also be imported to India soon. The first year of AG Barr imports will total over 6000 cases of 24 units each, all imported in can units. While the initial focus will be premium and mid-market retail and the online platforms Amazon, Big Basket and Blinkit, standalone restaurants and bars will be subsequently targeted. The Barr label is priced at T149 and Irn Bru at T159, available nationwide from September 2023. Mahua Goes Mainstream AG Barr, Scotland’s popular carbonated drinks brand, launched its flagship ranges of soft drinks Barr and Irn Bru in India in August this year. The 148-year-old brand made its India debut with Gujarat-based Vinod Beverages that will sell the range across India, through retail and online platforms. The products were launched by Harjinder Kang, British Trade Commissioner For South Asia and Deputy High Commissioner, Western India. Vinod Beverages proprietor Himanshu Dewani said the India’s first official mahua liquor, Mond has been objective of launching AG Barr’s product range was to launched in Madhya Pradesh as part of the state address the latent demand for flavoured carbonated government proposal to bring this heritage spirit into drinks. It will include modern flavours like bubblegum the organized sector. As part of a tribal empowerment and lemonade as well as classic ones like American drive, two indigenous tribal self-help groups, one in 46 Liquid

news Kathiwada, Alirajpur district and another in Bhaka Mal, Dindori district are involved. The former were responsible for choosing the brand name Mond which means ‘Mahua Spirit’ in their local dialect. The latter are currently developing another mahua-based liquor called Mohulo. Members of the groups were given special training on the basics of distillation. Once the units are fully functional, they will be handed over to the tribal groups to run independently. Mahua spirit, made from fermented mahua flowers, is a centuries-old traditional beverage produced by the Bhil and Bhilala tribes of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and parts of Maharashtra. Banned in colonial times as a threat to public health, the liquor continued to be produced and consumed as a ‘country liquor’ in independent India until this exciting new development. Mond production follows the traditional principles used by the tribals, but the modern techniques will help with temperature control, quicker fermentation and a longer shelf life, to make commercial production and distribution viable. Aniruddha Mookerjee, the state government’s advisor for heritage alcohol, explained: “This homegrown organic spirit has no additives or artificial flavours and is made by people who understand the essence of its flavour.” The drink is smooth with earthy and floral notes and has 38% ABV. It can be consumed by itself but also goes well with tonic, lemon and crushed ice or ginger ale. Mond is currently available at all Ambi Wine shops across Madhya Pradesh in 180ml and 750ml bottles, priced at T200 and T800 respectively. Your Own Whisky Concierge Courtyard by Marriott Mumbai International Airport has launched the Whiskey Wall, Mumbai’s first whisky concierge service. Housed in Ark 2.0, the hotel’s primary bar, the Whiskey Wall houses premium whiskies priced upward of T50,000. To take a berth on the Whiskey Wall, guests are being encouraged to pre-purchase the bottles to access whenever they visit the hotel in the course of a year, along with personalized bar service and the attention of the ‘Master of Whiskey’, who will guide and advise patrons of the Whiskey Wall about the available whiskeys, as well as conduct guided tastings. The launch event was hosted by whiskey connoisseur Nikhil Merchant. “Whiskey appreciation has come a long way in Mumbai and the Whiskey Wall takes things to another level,” he said, adding that ARK 2.0 provided the perfectly intimate environment in which fine whiskies are best enjoyed. Speaking at the launch, General Manager Victor Chan said the Whiskey Wall was created with the objective of “offering our guests an unparalleled whiskey experience through a selection of premium whiskeys in a highly personalized manner.” L Liquid 47

newsmaker Shark Tank Liquids B usiness reality show and Indian franchise of the American hit show, Shark Tank India was broadcast for the first time on Sony TV in December 2021. Shark Tank has a compelling premise – shortlisted entrepreneurs get the opportunity to pitch an idea or product to a panel of investors, or Sharks. If they can pique the Sharks’ interest, a deal is negotiated involving investment in exchange for equity. Destinies are made or broken in one heart-stopping hour, which explains why Shark Tank currently airs in 27 countries! Here’s a peek at some Indian ‘liquids’ which had their moment under the Shark Tank spotlights. Some came for funding, others as a marketing strategy, some were perhaps brought on as entertainment. In one way or another, their journeys were shaped by the show. Shark Tank has a compelling premise – shortlisted entrepreneurs get the opportunity to pitch an idea or product to a panel of investors, or Sharks. 48 Liquid Beyond Water Siblings Devang and Shachi Singhania’s innovation, Beyond Water, is a ‘water enhancer’. A few drops, available in different flavours, is said to transform water into a tastier, healthier drink. The concept takes on the flavoured drinks market with an economical zero-calorie, vitamin and electrolyte-augmented alternative. Founded in 2020, Beyond Water had sold

newsmaker Emcure Pharmaceuticals). Currently valued at R18.5 crores, Beyond Water is expanding and has recently introduced a range of ready-to-drink iced teas. Blue Tea Blue Tea was a well-established player in India’s herbal teas market and available in 12 countries, when founders Nitesh Singh and Sunil Saha made their Shark Tank pitch. They wanted capital to establish themselves as global market leaders. All publicity is good publicity – Shark Anupam Mittal called them out for misleading the panel about being the world’s first blue tea brand, causing other investors to drop out. However, Blue Tea eventually brokered a deal of R50 lakhs for 3% equity with Aman Gupta. Since their appearance on the show, Blue Tea has seen a significant increase in sales and distribution. From a revenue of R33 lakhs two years ago, the brand has already generated over R7.4 crore in only about 1,000 bottles when the founders appeared the current financial year. on the show. Available on e-commerce platforms and InACan retail stores in Kolkata at the time, it had already run Arguably Shark Tank India’s greatest ‘liquid’ success, into trouble with fake clones in the market. On Shark InACan was dreamt up during the pandemic by two Tank, the siblings struck a deal for 15% equity in friends, Sameer Mirajkar and Viraj Sawant. InACan exchange for R75 lakhs with Sharks Aman Gupta (Co- produces low-calorie, ready-to-drink canned cocktails founder, BoAt) and Namita Thapar (Executive Director, with flavours like G&T, Whisky Collins and Rum Latte. The Sharks Liquid 49

newsmaker Shark Tank allowed us to take the brand into people’s homes, during prime time. For free. Moonshine In 2014, childhood friends Rohan Rehani and Nitin Vishwas began experimenting with flavoured meads (an ancient alcoholic beverage made from fermented honey) in a Pune garage. They launched Moonshine with five flavours in 2018. On Shark Tank, they asked for R80 lakhs in exchange for a 0.5% stake. Their unique product resulted in a rare all-Sharks offer of R1 crore for a 2.5% stake. “As an alcohol brand, we would never get the opportunity to do a TV ad. Their product, new to the Indian market, sparked interest from all the Sharks. The young entrepreneurs walked away with a whopping R1 crore (twice their original ask) all-Sharks deal, in exchange for 10% equity. “Alcohol is a cluttered market and we were trying to build a whole new category,” said Viraj. “Shark Tank gave us exposure and visibility.” The company grew four times in the following year, and expects to double its revenues this year. InACan is now available in Goa, UP, Maharashtra and Pondicherry, and exports to Australia, Bhutan and Papua New Guinea. Malaki Brothers Ashish and Mohit Bhatia launched Malaki in 2018 to produce premium beverages with locallysourced ingredients. The brothers developed the technology for their alkaline waters, which underpin the entire range, from scratch. Their selection of niche beverages includes 24-carat gold-flavoured water, coffee tonic water and spiced ginger ale. Before Shark Tank, Malaki already had considerable success under its belt, available in various hospitality and retail spaces and on e-commerce platforms. The Mumbaibased duo closed a deal for R50 lakhs in lieu of 3% equity with Sharks Aman Gupta and Peyush Bansal (Co-founder, Lenskart). Malaki’s sales nearly doubled in the financial year that followed, and they expect sales of R9 crores in the current one. 50 Liquid Shark Tank allowed us to take the brand into people’s homes, during prime time. For free.” said Rohan. Clear upfront that visibility was the prize, and unwilling to compromise with the Sharks on their valuation, the duo turned down the offer. The episode ended with ‘insulted’ Shark Anupam Mittal (Founder, People Group) theatrically tearing up his cheque on air, which only fuelled more media attention. “We’ve grown 4x since Shark Tank, launched in new geographies (Karnataka, Gurgaon & the UAE) and have had a

newsmaker greater brand recall with consumers,” Rohan mused contentedly. NOCD NOCD (pronounced ‘knocked’) is a zero-carbohydrate, zero-caffeine and vitamin-enhanced energy drink, brought to Shark Tank by founders Siddharth Mishra and Vinay Kumar from Bengaluru. NOCD’s canned drinks were available in Karnataka and Maharashtra at the time, and the company was moderately successful with a R10 crore valuation. Shark Vineeta Singh (CEO, Sugar Cosmetics) offered them R20 lakh for 15% equity, with a further debt line of R30 lakh, on condition that the branding and packaging change. The exposure from Shark Tank saw their monthly sales jump from R7-8 lakhs to R50-60 lakhs, and their valuation skyrocket to R60 crores. “We made a strategic decision not to give away equity,” said Siddharth. Today, NOCD has added new products and expanded its market into other states. Theka Forte This coffee chain that offers a variety of cold-brewed coffees was pitched by founder Bhupinder Madaan, whose backstory is television gold. He first launched Theka in 2017 on the streets of Ahmedabad, by selling three variations of his own brews out of his car. By 2020 he had 14 outlets, but twin setbacks of his partner pulling out of the business and then the pandemic, brought the company to its knees. Post-pandemic, with a more cautious level of investment, Madaan had managed to rebuild to four thekas (kiosks), when he appeared on the show in January 2022. None of the Sharks took his bait, but following the show, VC firm Zenith Multi Trading backed him with an investment of R2.5 crores. The company has grown exponentially since then. Today, Theka Forte has headquarters in Ahmedabad, franchisees in 40+ cities and a revenue of R16 crore in the last financial year. L Radhika Tandon Liquid 51

tea New Wave Iced Teas A dmit it, the lure of masala chai or any hot tea is compelling during the monsoons and winters. Come summer (especially the Indian summer) – and all you can think of are cool drinks. But then comes the dilemma – what if you are a tea fan and are missing your daily chai kick? Wait, you have been rescued – iced tea in a tall glass coming your way, replete with ice cubes and a dash of lemon. Face the sizzling summers with iced tea powders and widely available ready-to-drink bottles from brands like Nestle and Lipton. The branded category has been accelerating at a CAGR of 17.43% (Technovia 2021) but consumers still leave it to individual cafes and restaurants to explore flavours beyond the standard, off-the-shelf peach and lemon. There seems to be a nascency to consumer preferences, unlike with cold coffee where people have clear choices and tastes. Face the sizzling summers with iced tea powders and widely available ready-to-drink bottles Head over to the nearest café to discover the sheer variety available, almost as if every conceivable flower or fruit has been infused into these delicious concoctions. Hibiscus, jasmine, chamomile, rose – a few examples of floral buds enveloping your senses 52 Liquid

tea with taste and aroma. In the US, an uncommon brew has been created with jasmine pearls. Fresh jasmine flowers are steamed with green tea leaves to ensure that the leaves are impregnated with an overwhelming jasmine aroma. These jasmine-green tea hand-rolled pearls are then soaked overnight in cold water and refrigerated. The residual brew is filtered and served as a delicious, fragrant iced tea. Minus the sugar syrup, these cooling blends are also beneficial in myriad ways – caffeine free, stress relieving, immunity boosting and packed with antioxidants. The Indian community has added its own twist with herbs and spices like ginger, tulsi, mint and cardamom. There are a few new additions to the world of iced teas, popularised largely by the younger generation. The effervescent ‘bubble tea’ and the exotic ‘matcha’ are late entrants that are rapidly gathering pace. Matcha originates from Japan, not China – from Jasmine increases the chlorophyll production and boosts the amino acid content in the tea, giving the plant a dark where green tea emerged. Even though both matcha green colour. The preferred first pick harvest yields the and green tea are from the same source, the Camellia finest quality and a vivid green colour. The real magic sinensis plant, that’s where the similarity ends. begins thereafter. Matcha is produced by covering the tea plants 20-30 Matcha is distinct from other teas – the word itself days before harvest so as to avoid direct sunlight. This means ‘powdered green tea’. The leaves are steamed, Hibiscus Chamomile Liquid 53

tea Photo: Creativechef Tea steeped with milk and sweetener/sugar forms the base of bubble tea and it is normally served over ice. You can forgo milk for a fruity base to make it less creamy. Nothing very exciting so far, right? Bring on the tapioca pearls and watch the fun temperature rocket. These pearls originate from South American cassava root that is processed to create tapioca starch, which in turn is boiled for about an hour. The bland, mild pearls are then soaked in brown sugar syrup to ramp up the taste quotient, but the real fun is in the chewy, soft texture. Not only are you drinking iced tea, now you can eat it too! This new wave of exciting iced tea recipes make cold coffee seems almost passé in comparison, don’t you think? Oh well, I am off – my daily order of matcha from Dunkin Donuts has arrived. L Matcha washed, dried and sorted to remove impurities and Manasvi Kalra is a student of journalism and economics at University of Massachusetts, Amherst. She enjoys reading and writing and is always down for a matcha run. keep leaves of similar colour, size, and uniformity. Once the stems and leaf veins are removed, the leaves are cut into smaller pieces and then ground into a fine powder. The drink tends to have a bitter yet earthy taste, without any astringency, and has a distinct umami flavour. Matcha powder is usually mixed with different kinds of milk, emerging in the form of sweetened and unsweetened lattes, and hence has a thick, frothy texture. To enhance the uniqueness of this trendy beverage, some flavour the sweet grassy notes of matcha with orange, vanilla or bittersweet berries, or opt for a healthy matcha smoothie recipe. If you’re getting hooked on matcha, how about some bubble tea? Also known as Boba tea, this drink originated in Taiwan in the early 1980s. Brought into the US by Taiwanese immigrants, it spread from there across the world. Made by blending a tea base with milk, fruit and fruit juices, the flagship ‘bubbles’ are tapioca pearls that descend to the bottom of the drink. Their jelly-like, chewy texture makes them tasty and adds a fun element. 54 Liquid Bubble Tea

Fruit Power Photo: alekasgettogether.com juice Seasonal Drinks M ost parts of India have four distinct seasons, each with their own seasonal fruits which can Summer – was especially memorable. It consisted be used in beverages. The fact that these are available garnished with a couple of jamun berries. Also called aplenty make them an economical option to expensive Indian Blackberry or Java Plum, the sweet-sour jamun non-native fruits. Adding fresh fruit both elevates the with a sharp astringent aftertaste is not my favourite. presentation of drinks and makes them a tad healthier. But in this cocktail, it was lovely to behold and even And when we add it to the ‘poison’ of our choice, it is better to taste! a clever and inspiring way to taste fruits that we might otherwise shy away from. of gin, jamun syrup, chilled soda and lemon juice, An interesting non-alcoholic recipe I tried out was made with jamun juice or pulp, Grenadine syrup, castor sugar, Any cool drink would have made that scorching hot lemon juice, and black salt for some extra punch. The summer evening bearable, but my cocktail – Indian drink proved to be an uplifting winner for a hot and 56 Liquid

Photo: Monin juice There are so many exciting and imaginative ways to use seasonal fruits in beverages. Another seasonal fruit commonly available across India is the humble litchi. Litchis have a limited season from May to August. Siya, Head Bartender at The Leela Palace, New Delhi, accepted my challenge to come up with a litchi-based cocktail and to my surprise, (this fruit doesn’t score too many points with me) I couldn’t get enough of it! Attractive in a feminine and delicate way, it carried a robust and interesting flavour. It was created with passionfruit vodka, litchi cordial, lime juice, orange bitters and egg white – presented in a Nick & Nora glass garnished with rosemary. Photo: foodbyjonistercom humid evening party. Synonymous with summers, this purple powerhouse has a host of health benefits: it’s packed with antioxidants, helps regulate blood sugar levels and supports heart health and immunity. Litchi An amazing internet find was a light and refreshing non-alcoholic recipe which uses fresh litchi juice, elderflower cordial, and mint leaves blended with soda. The result is an unpretentious, yet delicious Photo: mydiaryofus.com Jamun Grapefruit Spritz Liquid 57

Guava drink. Litchis are low on calories and naturally sweet, making it possible to create drinks without adding extra sugar. They are also packed with Vitamin C and high on fibre. Guavas are available in India mostly during September and October. If anyone tried to convince me that a guava-based cocktail was worth trying, I’d scoff at them; until I tried a Guava Cosmopolitan. I literally had to swallow my words after that! A regular Cosmopolitan made using guava juice tasted so much better! The earthiness and evergreen taste of guavas gives the drink a surprising twist. For those who find the distinct odour of fresh guavas off-putting, canned guava juice might do the trick. I concocted a tasty non-alcoholic drink by blending Come winter and our Indian grocery markets are flooded with different varieties of citrus fruit. One such fruit is grapefruit (chakotra). With its whitish, pink or even red pulp and varying degrees of sweetness, the grapefruit is beautiful to look at and pairs well with most spirits. I tasted Grapefruit Spritz at a Christmas party. Grapefruit juice was mixed with Aperol, topped with a dash of Prosecco and garnished with grapefruit zest. Stirred with ice and served in a chilled coupe glass, it looked and tasted delicious, with the perfect balance of sweet and sour. I tried a few non-alcoholic brews with grapefruits and my efforts paid off handsomely. The easy-to-make Grapefruit Virgin Paloma was a personal favourite. To make it, I added lime juice and agave syrup (a great natural alternative to sugar) to fresh grapefruit juice. I topped it with soda water and a garnish of grapefruit slivers. The salmon-pink drink was both gorgeous and mouth-watering. Grapefruits are loaded with benefits: high on Vitamin C, they are great for weight management and immunity building. Also, as they are low on calories, we can gorge on grapefruit drinks without an ounce of guilt! There are so many exciting and imaginative ways to use seasonal fruits in beverages. And, as I learned, it is a great way to consume fruits that we might normally avoid! L Brita Dasgupta’s love for reading, writing and travel have led her to chronicle her experiences on travel, history, food and beverages for the last two decades. Photo: Getty Images/500px Plus Photo: cookingchew.com juice guava juice, lemon juice, mint leaves, sugar and some salt. I sprinkled chilli powder and salt on the rim of a martini glass and poured my blended concoction on a bed of ice cubes. This quick-to-make guava soft drink was a huge hit! Bursting with Vitamin C and a host of other antioxidants, guavas aid diabetics and contribute to heart health and weight management. 58 Liquid Grapefruit Virgin Paloma

R Drink responsibly, dispose responsibly. ecycling of glass bottles has become unviable. Empty glass bottles are being dumped into already scarce landfill space - where they won’t decompose for a million years! Glass2Sand is an environment-friendly project that addresses this growing menace and creates a “zero waste” eco-system. Using an innovative “Made in India” technology, these bottles are crushed into silica-rich sand. Pledge your empty glass bottles to Glass2Sand. Call: +91 9810008289 | Mail: info@glass2sand.in glass2sand.in An initiative of the

Unexpected Brews Photo: Alamy Stock coffee Exotic Coffees M any of us lack the fortitude to confront mornings without our customary dose of caffeine. Coffee consumption has continually evolved over the years, presenting us with many choices and methods to savour these adaptable beans. Every coffee drinker has their preferred concoction – with or without milk or cream, sweetened or flavoured, instant or freshly roasted – and so on. Mushroom Coffee Our journey had us venturing beyond these familiar territories into far corners of the world in search of the eclectic. The result is a remarkable collection of unusual brews to add to your personal coffee bucket (err… cup) list. body and mind. 60 Liquid The rich flavours of coffee are harmonised with the potent benefits of medicinal mushrooms, bringing the benefits of the latter to your daily cuppa. These include stress and anxiety management, better immunity and brain and heart function. If you’ve ever experienced post-coffee jitters, it might be worth giving this drink a shot, as it possesses a soothing effect on both the You won’t be tossing just regular button mushrooms into your morning brew. Instead, varieties like Reishi, Cordyceps, and Lion’s Mane are commonly harnessed

coffee Believed to have originated in Hong Kong, Yuenyeung is a delightful fusion of brewed coffee and Hong Kong-style milk tea. for their health-giving qualities. They impart an earthy, rustic, and subtly nutty flavour profile that complements, rather than overpowers, the coffee. You can start your mushroom coffee journey in India with brands like Four Sigmatic, Ace Blend or Cosmix. Yuenyeung For those who have an uncommon love for both tea and coffee and are perpetually torn between the two, Yuenyeung offers a unique solution. Believed to have originated in Hong Kong, Yuenyeung is a delightful fusion of brewed coffee and Hong Kong-style milk tea. Typically prepared using Ceylon tea, it is often sweetened with condensed milk, resulting in a brew creamy, sweet notes of milk tea. Yuenyeung Photo: Shutterstock that combines the rich, bitter flavours of coffee with the Mushroom coffee Liquid 61

coffee Avocado coffee natural creaminess and thickness of avocados lends in a multitude of ways. The coffee-to-tea ratio can be a velvety texture to the cup and creates a robust tailored to suit individual tastes; some prefer a bolder mouthfeel. You might assume the avocado would coffee essence, while others lean towards a more tea- overshadow the pure essence of coffee, but in reality, it centric experience. You can experiment with different enhances the bold coffee flavours of even a light roast. proportions of milk, sugar and condensed milk till you find a version that gets a ‘yes’ from your palate. You can enjoy it hot or chilled. The best part? You can effortlessly whip this up in the comfort of your home. Photo: CNN Just like any other cup, Yuenyeung can be customised Avocado Coffee We’ve all indulged in the avocado toast craze, but have you ever considered avocado in your coffee? Known as Jus Alpukat or Kopi Alpukat, this beverage has gained popularity in Indonesia and Vietnam. Crafted from ripe avocados, strong brewed coffee and sweet condensed milk, it is enjoyed for its sweet, earthy flavours. The The natural creaminess and thickness of avocados lends a velvety texture to the cup and creates a robust mouthfeel. 62 Liquid Elephant dung coffee

coffee Why give it a try? Some savour avocado coffee for its refreshing taste, while others see it as a convenient means to incorporate the fibre and healthy fats for which avocados are renowned. What’s more, it provides a clean energy boost and can help stave off an unwanted caffeine crash. Dung Coffee & Monkey Spit Coffee You may have heard of Kopi Luwak, an Indonesian coffee that’s famously produced from the faeces of Asian civets that have consumed coffee cherries. It might sound unappetizing, but is considered a delicacy and fetches a hefty price tag of $1,300 per kilogram. Thailand’s Black Ivory Coffee Company takes a similar approach with their Elephant Dung Coffee. Elephants are fed coffee beans mixed with rice, bananas, and fruit water. After about half a day, when the elephants naturally excrete the beans, these are carefully collected, cleaned, and processed. The result? A flavourful cup of coffee with robust nutty notes. A single cup goes for around $50, while a kilogram will set you back $2,000. Coffee enthusiasts around the world swear by its unique taste. Taiwan and India also boast Monkey Spit Coffee, made exactly as the name suggests from rare coffee beans that have been chewed and spat out by monkeys. The regurgitated beans are gathered and transformed into a sweet, complex coffee, priced at about $45 for a cup or $300 per kilogram. However, finding this variety can be quite a challenge. In the world of coffee, these unconventional brews offer a tantalising departure from the ordinary. Embark on your own coffee odyssey. Cheers to discovering the extraordinary in every sip! L Monkey spit coffee Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach). Liquid 63

Photo: SodaBottleOpenerWala tea Chai Time Iranian Cafés I n Japan and the east, a tea-house is for tea. In Europe, a café must serve coffee. But only in Hyderabad would you go to a café for Irani chai. And therein lies a tale. Submerged in history, buzzing with commerce and thronged by people, the city of Hyderabad was included in the UNESCO’s culinary heritage list as a Creative City of Gastronomy, and rightfully so! One of India’s most evocative metropolises, impressive Islamic architecture is interspersed with meandering bye-lanes; local restaurants and spice merchants are housed amidst the chaotic daily hustle whilst Irani chai cafés forever immortalize the simple cup of Irani Chai. What has now become a way of life was introduced by Persian settlers many moons ago. Legend has it that the settlers arrived almost a century ago at a Bombay port in search of a better life, and later made their way Irani cafés found the perfect conditions to flourish giving rise to a unique new culture in Hyderabad. into Hyderabad along with their cup of Irani chai. As luck would have it, in the early 20th century, orders were disseminated permitting the establishment of tea stalls all across Hyderabad, a directive to help diminish alcohol intake and substitute it with the tea 66 Liquid

tea drinking culture called chai-noshi. Irani chai cafés, that had already found popularity in Bombay, thus found the perfect conditions to flourish, giving rise to a unique new culture in Hyderabad. Over the years and until not long ago, these Irani cafés were hubs where intellectuals would gather to discuss the world and its politics; and students would drown their time, hearts and sorrows in a cup of chai. Be it a government clerk, taxi driver, political activist, poet or unemployed youth, chances are they would spend extensive hours in an Irani café, seated on a bentwood chair, in front of a marble-topped table with a cup of tea before them. In Iran, from where this style of tea-making originated, tea is made with only leaves and water, with no addition of milk. It is sweetened by a large grain of sugar tucked inside the cheek, through which the tea is sipped slowly. for Irani chai, the tea and milk are boiled separately. Tea dust and sugar are heated in a sealed airtight container using a cooking technique called dum, whereby the flavours concentrate within the pot to create a strong, lustrous and tannic concoction. Among the plethora of Indian teas, Irani chai holds its This style of tea-making has managed to preserve its own coveted space, paired perfectly with a side of bun distinct taste and flavour with remarkable consistency maska or an Osmania biscuit. Unlike traditional Indian through the centuries, along with a slice of the city’s chai, where tea leaves and milk are boiled together, history. Liquid 67

tea Being a Bombay girl, I have a soft spot in my heart for the charm and no-nonsense attitude of Irani cafés. I was told that Hyderabad has one on every street corner between the city’s Charminar and Secunderabad. In a fit of nostalgia and a longing for Bombay, I decided to visit some recommended Irani cafés in Hyderabad. The chais served in Hyderabad predominantly come in little white ceramic cups and saucers. As the tea has been brewed for hours and is served piping hot, forget the fancy, and look at the utility. The saucer is the traditional way to cool it down – pour the tea into the saucer and then sluurp! I believe it is more enjoyable sipped in this way as, similar to wine, the aerating helps release flavour and aromas. I was hoping to be transported to another era, to connect with the bentwood chairs and hear the walls whisper, but sadly I did not get to go back in time. I didn’t find the authentic style of Irani chai. With new trends in the coffee and commercial world, and what seems to be an Americanization of the eating 68 Liquid

tea no students with greasy fingers plotting revolutions, This style of tea-making has managed to preserve its distinct taste and flavour with remarkable consistency through the centuries. nor poet ink on napkins, though the bun maska and cup of chai I ordered was definitely a treat. This brown rich liquid has its own way of warming the soul. The Irani chai territory has weakened. Nevertheless, old souls and loyalists patronize what they forever hold dear – their traditions. And with each café grew out culture, Irani cafés have been replaced by places a culture rich with its own vocabulary, food and drink; that call themselves fast food restaurants and hotels, a whole repository of stories. Ralph Waldo Emerson the word ‘café’ itself getting lost in the shadows of time. once said, “Some people will tell you there is a great Even though they serve the authentic Irani chai deal of poetry and fine sentiment in a chest of tea,” and Osmania biscuits, items like chilli cheese toast and this statement holds true for the love of Irani chai. sandwiches and south Indian snacks have been So when next in Hyderabad, come wallow in not just a merged into the menu. The lazy ambience of the past cup of chai, but a sentiment of tradition. L is gone, filled with high strung activity devoid of any Xenia Lam is passionate about travelling, writing and art. She has a Masters in Gastronomy from the University of Gastronomic Sciences, Pollenzo. emotion. It is ‘fast food’ alright. Everyone is in a hurry to order, eat, drink and go. To my dismay, there were Liquid 69