Volume 2 Issue 1 Q1 2023 R 90 The Power of Coffee Traditions and Variations Tequila Symbol of Mexico India’s Milk Story The White Revolution

contents what’s inside Milk India’s Milk Story Wellness Karlovy Vary 4 Liquid 8 22 Milk Non-Dairy Milk Coffee The Power of Coffee 12 Tradition 26 News India’s Traditional Drinks II 18 32

contents Insight Women & Alcohol in India Wine Welcombe to our Table Vietnam When in Vietnam 38 Gin 50 Tequila 60 Bar Good Times in Goa Symbol of Mexico Gastropubs & Chefologists 42 Wine 52 Brazil Experimental Wines Caipirinha 46 56 66 Liquid 5

advertisers Volume 2 Issue 1 Q1 2023 R 90 The Power of Coffee Traditions and Variations Tequila Symbol of Mexico India’s Milk Story The White Revolution Liquid

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advertisers R Drink responsibly, dispose responsibly. ecycling of glass bottles has become unviable. Empty glass bottles are being dumped into already scarce landfill space - where they won’t decompose for a million years! Glass2Sand is an environment-friendly project that addresses this growing menace and creates a “zero waste” eco-system. Using an innovative “Made in India” technology, these bottles are crushed into silica-rich sand. Pledge your empty glass bottles to Glass2Sand. Call: +91 9810008289 | Mail: info@glass2sand.in glass2sand.in An initiative of the Liquid

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publisher’s Volume 2 Issue 1 Q1 2023 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Managing Editor: Radhika Tandon Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Design: Sandeep Kaul Photographs: Hunesh Ajmani Digital: Udit Singhal Contributors: Anita Rao Kashi Annamari Somogyi Chris Boiling Nandita Kaushik Nikhil Merchant Shalini Virmani Stuart George Uday Kumar Varma Xenia Lam Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. note I t is my pleasure to share with you that in the last weeks, I secured the official endorsement that confirms and completes our acquisition of ‘Liquid’! I took a leaf from our own ‘How to enter the Indian market’ manual and patiently persevered through the labyrinth of bureaucracy to seek permissions. The process took a little over a year. Putting so many signatures to paper, at least I felt like a celebrity! Liquid has ushered us into an entirely new dimension within the dynamic world of beverages. This space is buzzing… collaborations and acquisitions are bettering the product offer across the drinks spectrum to meet the changing preferences of the very upwardly mobile consumer. Several studies point to a very significant opportunity in the world’s most populous nation – whose 1.4 billion inhabitants are known to drink a lot. The trends that we discern are premiumisation, back-to-the-roots, healthy drinks and ‘low or no’ alcohol. I can’t help but wonder if Liquid is already making its impact felt! In the quarter gone by, Team Liquid quenched our thirst with new discoveries and relished good old favourites – and has captured them in our pages. Our esteemed contributors have shared their insights, perspectives and experiences. I hope that you will enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together. In our everlasting pursuit of unlocking the immense potential within the beverage industry, I invite you to forge new partnerships. Liquid 7

Photo: Gaon Connection milk India’s Milk Story 8 Liquid

milk M ilk has been a part of our gastronomic culture since time immemorial and can be traced back at least 5000 years to the Indus valley civilisation. Many of us may recall a childhood love-hate relationship with this nutritious white liquid that forms an essential part of our daily lives today. India is the most populous country and also the fastest growing economy in the world. The demand for dairy has been growing substantially with India taking the lead Board launched ‘Operation Flood’, to replicate Amul’s professionally-managed dairy cooperative model across the length and breadth in India. Firmly entrenched at the district and state level, these cooperatives have stood the country in good stead and helped in taking the country from milk scarcity to selfreliance. India became the largest producer of milk in 1998 surpassing the United States. Soon after, India started exporting milk and milk products. as the world’s largest dairy producer and consumer. According to the Indian government’s Economic Survey 2021-22, India recorded an annual production of 221 million tonnes valued at US $100 billion. The pre-independence era in India was marked by milk We are spoilt for choice with the various distribution channels available at our doorstep. scarcity and very tight regulations that caused spoilage, and unfair cartelisation. This seeded the formation of a cooperative in Anand, Gujarat, when a few farmers led by Tribhuvan Das Patel came together to fight the cause – and Anand Milk Union Ltd. (Amul) was founded in 1946. Dr Verghese Kurien joined forces with Patel and became the architect of the ‘White Revolution’ in India. For The production of milk has grown from the small farmers and co-operatives to government undertakings, and more recently private companies and international players. Many investors and entrepreneurs have entered this lucrative industry, some drawing on international expertise, applying their skills to introduce new concepts and build brands. Investments in product some decades, Amul flourished alongside imported milk. In 1965, the National Dairy Development improvement and adaptation of best practices to local conditions have benefitted partner farmers. Liquid 9

milk I have observed the evolution in milk packaging and then came the plastic bottles and the emergence of delivery systems prevalent across the country. The new-age sustainable packaging. ubiquitous doodhwala carrying milk cans on his cycle was the first person I would see in the morning. Over the years, the cycles upgraded to bikes and even vans. The self-service token system was a novelty and containers of all shapes and sizes queued up outside Over the years, scientific innovations have increased the shelf life of this perishable and very valuable commodity, allowing for milk to be transported and consumed in varying temperature conditions. We are spoilt for choice with the various distribution packs made delivery easier, as did tetra packs, and channels (milk booth, neighbourhood grocer, direct-to- Photo: Gaon Connection milk booths, waiting for the opening hour. Plastic poly 10 Liquid

milk INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR Young professionals have floated their own startups to offer adulteration-free milk to more conscious consumers. Binsar Farms, with its state-of-the-art private dairy venture setup near Delhi, broke ground in 2016. Deepak Raj and his partners collaborated with reputed New Zealand dairy professionals, to offer good quality milk from a sustainable dairy farm, well-aligned to international standards and food safety norms set by the Indian government. A platform was created at the base of the pyramid to uplift the rural ecosystem through a farming community-commerce collaboration and lend structure to the informal sector. Binsar Farms have focussed on infrastructure to enable a smooth supply chain that ensures the customers get the quality they expect and deserve. Following scientific animal husbandry practices and international standards, the cows are kept healthy. Green fodder is grown inhouse along with other feed components so that a nutritionally-balanced diet is given to cows. The quality of milk is tested regularly in their inhouse lab and periodically in the partners’ New Zealand lab. Environment-friendly recycled glass bottles help reduce plastic wastage. Their target audience are young new-age families who are more aware of the nutritional parameters and don’t just look for more fat in milk. “Our milk tastes far better and there is no aftertaste or smell, due to good practices and freshness of the milk.” Proud of the ecosystem that has been set up, Deepak says: “Unlike large brands, our farm-fresh quality milk is untouched by hand, produced, processed and supplied in a single inhouse chain without any middlemen, and delivered to the customer in less than a day.” Dr Verghese Kurien home subscription companies, e-commerce platforms, etc.) available at our doorstep. And also spoilt for the types of milk (buffalo, cow, goat, camel, sheep), the treatment they undergo (farm fresh, pasteurised, homogenised, sterilised, UHT, evaporated, condensed) and even the amount of fat content (whole milk, reduced fat, low fat, fat-free/skimmed milk, powder). New innovations like ready-to-drink flavoured milk are getting popular. Each type offers a distinct taste and quality and is suited to specific flavour profiles. The health benefits of milk are inscribed in our scriptures. Milk has rich nutrients – calcium, phosphorus, vitamin D, proteins, essential fats and carbohydrates. It is an effective remedy for acidity; a cup of cold milk or yogurt helps neutralise the pH in our system and brings almost instant relief. It hydrates our body, and the richness of proteins and nutrients can help rejuvenate skin, clear spots and delay ageing when used as an application. Intake of milk and derivative products improves cardiovascular health if swapped with vegetable fats or polyunsaturated fats. So don’t hesitate to dig into some butter for your toast or ghee for your food – but remember, moderation is key. Milk and milk products are integral to our culture and a staple of our diet. And for milk lovers, there has never been a better time to enjoy it! L Ritu Singhal Liquid 11

Photo: Getty Images milk Choices, Choices! Non-Dairy Milk W hile many of us were raised to believe that milk is an essential daily staple, a fundamental shift The factors are multiple. Plant-based milks have health in thinking has been witnessed in the last decade, friendly, usually low in fats, rich in nutrients and easier to evidenced by the rapidly-growing market for milk digest than dairy. Studies have also found that a large substitutes. A recent report shows that the Indian dairy part of India’s population has some degree of lactose alternatives market stood at nearly US$95 million in intolerance. With growing awareness, consumers are 2021, and is projected to more than double by 2027. consciously seeking alternatives. During the pandemic, So, why are milk substitutes becoming so popular? many people looked to explore healthy, ethical and 12 Liquid benefits – they are gluten-free, cholesterol-free, vegan-

milk sustainable alternatives – and this boosted demand. Companies spotted an opportunity to connect with consumers and offered them alternatives. Plant-based milks are gluten-free, cholesterol-free, vegan-friendly, low in fats, rich in nutrients and easier to digest than dairy. A frustrating lack of transparency in the dairy industry which was eased somewhat by stringent food safety and labelling declarations; some reports of misuse of hormones and antibiotics; and unscrupulous adulteration of milk by ingredients ranging from water to detergents, chemicals, formalin and even white paint, has made consumers think about their choices. Farmfresh, organic, additive-free milk options are becoming increasingly available with many entrepreneurs having ventured into this space. But they are not so easy to find and their subscription models can be more expensive than the commercial options. This paves the way for plant-based milks to co-exist and make a dent on market share. However, not all milk-substitute brands are equal. They, too, can be laced with additives, thickeners and preservatives. They may not have the equivalent amount of protein, vitamin B12 and calcium as a glass of regular milk. Some nut-based milks are made from the nut pulp, which is strained and mixed with water, causing them to lose much of their nutritional value. It is, therefore, very important to read the ingredient list and nutritional value on the labels before making your choice of milk. Soya milk Almond milk Here’s a quick guide to the most popular milk alternatives. Soya Milk: Arguably the oldest and most widelyavailable milk substitute in India, its protein content is equivalent to cow’s milk. Mild and creamy, it’s ideal for use in savoury dishes, and with coffee and cereal. It is rich in fibre and antioxidants and has Isoflavone compounds which can boost bone density, lower cholesterol and reduce menopausal symptoms. Walnut milk Liquid 13

Photo: cook2nourish.com milk Making coconut milk Almond Milk: A mild-flavoured milk, made with either almonds or almond butter and water, this is one of the lowest-calorie milks available and a good source of calcium and Vitamin E. For the best quality, look for brands that contain a higher percentage (around 7-15%) of almonds. It is very important to read the ingredient list and nutritional value on the labels before making your choice of milk. Coconut Milk: Made from the white flesh of coconuts and water, it comes closest to the flavour and texture of dairy milk. Creamy with a subtle sweetness, it is a traditional favourite for many Indian dishes, and is also good in soups, puddings and vegan ice cream. Coconut milk contains no protein, few carbohydrates, and is high in potassium and fats. Oat Milk: Made from a mixture of oats and water, it is naturally sweet and mild, and can also be used in cooking. It is naturally high in fibre and protein, has 14 Liquid

milk about the same number of calories as cow’s milk, and can help to reduce cholesterol. Rice Milk: The least allergenic of all milk substitutes, it is ideal for those with intolerances to soy, gluten, nuts and dairy. Mild, slightly watery, and easy to digest, it is low in protein and fat but high in carbohydrates. Its high glycemic index can raise blood sugar levels rapidly, hence it is not recommended for diabetics. Cashew Milk: This milk is rich and creamy with a sweet, nutty flavour. Cashews are a good source of zinc, copper and magnesium. Cashew milk is particularly good in tea, soups, dressings and sauces. It is low in protein but high in calcium. Photo: savoryspin.com Rice milk Peanut Milk: With a distinct flavour and smooth, milky texture, it tastes delicious chilled. A great source of protein and healthy fats, it’s also one of the most planetfriendly milks, as peanuts have the lowest water footprint and a low carbon footprint compared to other nuts. Walnut, hemp, hazelnut, pistachio and macadamia are more exotic entrants to the market. Variants like flavoured, sweetened, fortified and organic continue to appear on shelves. Some options – notably almond, peanut, cashew and oat milk – are easily made at home. Photo: thenutr.com Pistachio milk The healthiest milks will have the fewest listed ingredients on their labels, and zero or minimal added sugars and sodium. You can choose milks fortified with things like Vitamin D, calcium and Omega-3s. Peanut milk is among the most planet -friendly milks, with the lowest water footprint and a low carbon footprint. Milk alternatives usually come in hygienically-packed and transparently-labelled tetra packs, which also gives them the advantage of a longer shelf life. The good news is that they are available everywhere from the neighborhood grocery store to the online shopping portals. The Indian consumer now has an unprecedented choice. L Peanut milk Radhika Tandon Liquid 15

Photo: thedailywrite.net tradition India’s Traditional Drinks Part II 18 Liquid

Photo: theculinarykashmiri.com tradition Noon Chai n the previous issue, we unearthed some classic traditional drinks of India. There is such a wealth of these that it was impossible to fit them all in one article! So, here we go again, plunging back into the ‘stream of the unusual’ from around the country. Noon Chai - the tea that is pink Buransh - the miracle flower The Buransh (Rhododendron) tree is found in the Himalayan forests. The juice comes from its red flowers (declared as the State Flower of Uttarakhand) that set the mountains of Uttarkashi, Almora and Pithoragarh ‘on fire’. Photo: Masala Monk I Ice-draped Kashmiri winters are warmed by delicious Noon Chai, named not for the time of consumption but an unexpected ingredient – noon or salt. This milk-based beverage uses special Kashmiri tea leaves brewed with a dash of salt and baking powder, which turns it pink. Added to this concoction are cinnamon, cardamom, almonds and pistachios. The tea leaves are crushed in the palm of a hand. A cup of water with a pinch of baking powder is boiled till it turns burgundy, making a concentrate which can be consumed over several days. Milk, salt and other ingredients are then added. Noon Chai, also called Sheer Chai or Gulab Chai, is best accompanied by the Kashmiri bread Tsot, made by local bakeries called Kandurs. The tea is served in a Kashmiri Samovar, a traditional tea kettle of Russian origin, which has a compartment for coals, and another for water in which the tea leaves and accompanying ingredients are brewed. Here’s a tip – for a richer taste, add malai (cream) or a dollop of butter into the cup. Buransh Liquid 19

tradition Growing at altitudes ranging from 1,200-2,300m, Buransh is described as a miracle flower thanks to a multitude of therapeutic and curative benefits. The juice is good for the skin, heart, liver and for respiratory problems, and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Three parts water are added to one part of the Buransh nectar. The flower has natural sweetness, but sugar might need to be added to the juice. Commerciallyavailable brands are often loaded with sugar and preservatives so choose locally-made versions. Aam Panna – mango twist Travelling along, we take you to Gujarat from where Aam Panna originates. While aam is vernacular for mango, panna roughly translates to ‘tangy drink’. Also known by the names Aam Jhora or Kairi Panha, Aam Panna proves why mango is the king of fruits. Yet another drink to protect against the Indian sun, it helps refresh and rehydrate. It is also a rich source of iron and vitamin C, and helps with acidity and Photo: quichentell.com indigestion. The flavours vary depending on how the Aam Panna 20 Liquid mango is treated and the kind of spices added. There are three ways in which the raw mango (green, non-pulpy, hard-to-the-touch can be ‘cooked’ to make the drink. 1. traditional – Raw mangoes are roasted on wood charcoal or in a clay pot, with a coconut placed in the center of the burning wood. 2. roasting – Raw mangoes are roasted on a stove flame till the skin gets black and the pulp is soft and cooked. The roasted pulp gives a subtle charred flavour to the drink. 3. boiling – For the original untarnished mango flavour, the mangoes are boiled instead of roasted. Aam Panna is vegan and gluten-free, and a spicy treat when seasoned with warm cumin, cardamom, and sulfurous black salt (kala namak). Jaggery gives a dark yellow façade and a sweet-tangy taste. Aam Panna proves why mango is the king of fruits.

Photo: hellomangaluru.com tradition flavonoid high in antioxidants) and yellow carrots were cultivated traditionally, till the Western orange-colored carrots took over. Do not lose heart, the health benefits are the same. Ground mustard seeds, red chili powder and black salt are added to the chopped vegetables and mixed in boiled cooled water. A ceramic or glass jar is filled with the mixture and exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days to ferment. Like many fermented drinks, Kanji is an acquired taste and a superb probiotic. The doors to colours have been flung wide open – red, green, pink, brown, blue – hopefully you will relish them! In the process, these historic, rich and complex liquid presentations will pour good health down your veins. L Goli Soda – the Tapori drink One of the oldest drinks of India, Goli Soda is mostoften sold on street carts around the country. This carbonated drink is served in a special neck bottle, sealed with a glass marble (goli in Hindi) to contain the fizz. Nandita Kaushik is a creative writer, content writer, blogger and poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Photo: supaintsonplates.com Goli Soda Goli Soda is produced in various flavours – lime, orange, cola and blueberry. The Codd-neck bottle was first designed and patented in 1872 by British inventor Hiram Codd of Camberwell, London. Unfortunately, Goli Soda lost its popularity due to poor hygiene levels and the difficulty in cleaning the bottles and keeping the marble intact. A few enterprising individuals are trying to bring it back – till then we admire it from a safe distance. Kanji – the red drink Kanji is consumed traditionally on Holi, but is also a popular winter drink all over north India. Traditionally made with black carrots, some recipes call for a mix of carrots and beetroot. Historians trace its origins to the Indus Valley era. Black carrots, rich in Anthocyanin (a Like many fermented drinks, Kanji is an acquired taste and a superb probiotic. Kanji Liquid 21

Photo: Shutterstock wellness Karlovy Vary Springs of Life J ust over 100 km west of Prague, Karlovy Vary is a 14th century Czech spa town famed for its punctuated by giant ancient stone buildings here and natural and man-made drinks. Surrounded by the I headed into the historic centre on foot and turned Slavkov forest, full of bogs, lush green meadows and a rather sharp bend in the river to enter Stara Louka. pine woods, its historic centre lies on either side of the The street skirts the river and is stacked with stunning river Tepla, lined with beautiful medieval buildings and 18th and 19th century buildings. They are beautifully colourful facades. But most importantly, much of life maintained and house swanky boutiques, swish here revolves around its astonishing number of thermal showrooms, restaurants, bars and cafes, which were mineral springs – 13 major and some 300 minor ones – swirling with tourists. that are scattered all over. there. But its true charms became quickly evident once At the end of the street, the river continues on another Following the river from outside of town, Karlovy Vary bend, but at its crook lies one of city’s most iconic doesn’t look like much. There’s a lot of greenery, locations – the Mill Colonnade, a neo-Renaissance 22 Liquid

wellness building built in the late 19th century. Statues on the rooftop showcase the months of the year and a bandstand. A longish building, it stretches more than 120 metres and is supported by over a hundred Corinthian columns. And all this elaborate architecture supports five main springs that spurt water at various temperatures ranging from 53°C to 65°C, each supposedly with their own mineral and therapeutic properties. Before stepping in, I got myself a spa cup, a tiny white porcelain jug that could hold less than 100ml. It had a mini spout, handle and mouth from which to collect water from the springs. On the sides were etchings of the town in blue. It was pretty, and almost everyone walking around had a version. I was told all the springs are safe to drink from and I used the cup to try the water. Each was warm to varying degrees and tasted marginally different but all of them had a very strong On the way to the next set of springs, I got a brief mineral taste; for some reason, they tasted better when lowdown on the town. Also known as Carlsbad, cooled down. Karlovy Vary literally means ‘Charles’ hot baths’ and was named after Charles IV, the 14th century Roman Emperor who was cured of his knee pain after a stint here. But it was only in the 18th century that it shot into prominence when Russian Tsar Peter the Great was treated here. Other well-known visitors included Goethe, Beethoven, Chopin and Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. It is believed that the thermal springs have incredible medicinal properties ranging from relieving muscular and gastrointestinal problems to curing gout and even obesity. For me though, it was the individual tastes that were fascinating, a factor of all the minerals that the water encountered on its way to the surface. The Mill Colonnade supports five main springs that spurt water at various temperatures. At the Hot Spring Colonnade nearby, it was a bit surprising to see a rather plain concrete-and-glass structure; it is relatively new, built about 50 years ago and dedicated to Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin. Inside I saw the spectacular geyser – Pramen Vřídlo, which Liquid 23

wellness spurted up for more than ten meters. At over 74°C, it is also one of the hottest of the springs. The covered building was dense from the vapours of the spring, the air smelling of minerals, tickling the nose. Against the wall were a row of taps from which one could sample the water – it was rather hot and pungent, and probably the only one I recoiled from. Elsewhere, there is also the wood-built Market Colonnade, located in the historic centre, Castle Colonnade and the Park Colonnade. Some tasted a bit fizzy, owing to the carbon dioxide content, and one had a distinct sulphur taste. In addition to these natural phenomena, Karlovy Vary is known for another drink – Becherovka. Supposedly 24 Liquid Photo: praguexplorer.com Karlovy Vary means ‘Charles’ hot baths’ and was named after Charles IV, the Roman Emperor.

wellness created in 1805 by a pharmacist, Josef Vitus Becher, Becherovka probably began life as medicine, specifically for gastric problems. But soon it acquired a reputation as a liquor, popular as an aperitif or digestif. At a little bar on Stara Louka, I sipped from a shot glass and flinched from the assault on the palate. Heavy gingery and cinnamon notes competed with a strong menthol flavour; it was sharp, and at close to 40% strength, it packed a wallop. But subsequent sips revealed subtler flavours like citrus and other spices and herbs, and I started to enjoy it. I was told that as many as 20 ingredients go into the making. As night fell and I headed back along the Tepla, the colourful lit facades and their reflections in the water turned the city into something straight out of a fairyand the Becherovka. Either way, it made for a lasting impression. L Anita Rao Kashi is a Bangalore-based journalist and writer who enjoys the unexpectedness of travel and the adventure of tasting new food and drink. Photo: Becherovka | Cocoon Photo: Becherovka | Cocoon Photo: Rolf Dietrich Brecher tale. Or, it may have been the water from the springs Liquid 25

coffee The Power of Coffee E spresso, cortado, ristretto, latte, flat white, cappuccino, macchiato, Americano, French years! In the 17th century, London wives blamed their press, drip, cold brew… today there are many variations while in Germany it was thought that coffee made of coffee, which was once simply called ‘black water’. women infertile. Yet, coffee eventually conquered the The first written records of coffee date back over world. a thousand years. Avicenna, the famous Persian doctor, used it as a medicine. Coffee’s journey from its birthplace, Ethiopia, through the Arab peninsula husbands’ impotence on excessive coffee drinking, In Europe, the first coffee houses opened five centuries ago, and some of the most famous of these became and to the rest of the world was accompanied by centres of intellectual life. In my country, Hungary, prohibitions and false beliefs. The Catholic Church Budapest, was once a coffee-house capital. In the first condemned coffee, calling it the ‘devil’s drink’ – late 19th and early 20th centuries, our famous poets until one of the Popes developed a taste for it, after and writers did their best work while sitting in coffee which nothing could halt the spread of its popularity. houses, sipping coffee which they sometimes paid for Voltaire’s doctors warned the philosopher that coffee with a 4-line rhyme. Even now there are coffee shops was poison. Voltaire answered that it must be a very where the regulars have their own coffee cups with slow-acting poison as he had been drinking it for 80 their name on it. 26 Liquid

coffee The first written records of coffee date back over a thousand years. The Turks brought coffee to Hungary. In the 17th century, Turkish occupiers captured a Hungarian chief by luring him to lunch at their camp. Sensing danger, he wanted to leave but was told, “Don’t rush, try the black soup (coffee)”. As soon as he drank it, he was captured. Even today, the phrase ‘black soup’ carries the connotation that something unpleasant is looming. Coffee drinking has many different traditions around Coffee owes a lot to the Hungarians, or at least to one the world. In Turkey, the bride-to-be both made and particular Hungarian, Ferenc Illy (1892-1956), who later served the coffee for the bridegroom’s parents, and moved to Italy and became known as Francesco Illy. if either was judged not good enough, the wedding He invented the pressurization system for packaging might be called off! Turkish wives would show their coffee, which allowed it to travel worldwide whilst affection (or displeasure) to their husbands by the keeping its aroma and freshness. In 1935, Ferenc quantity of sugar they added to the coffee. Illy invented the first high-pressure espresso coffee Though cappuccino was invented in Italy in the 1930s, machine, the Illetta, predecessor of today’s espresso the name was adopted from the Austrian Kapuziner, machine. The ‘illy’ brand is now synonymous with a coffee with cream and sugar, named after the light- premium Italian coffee around the globe. brown robes of the Kapuzin friars in early 19th century Liquid 27

coffee Have you heard of café sospenso? It is not a drink but an act of goodwill in Naples, Italy: you buy two coffees, one for yourself and one, ‘suspended’ and consumed later, by a person who couldn’t afford it. Though cappuccino was invented in Italy in the 1930s, the name was adopted from the Austrian Kapuziner. Don’t complain if you always make the coffee at home. Most of the time you just push a button. Imagine, in Ethiopia, if anyone asks for coffee, it must be made from scratch – roasting the beans, preferably on an open fire, then grinding, boiling, and sweetening it before serving. Since time immemorial, Coffea Arabica L. has grown in the wild forests of the Southwestern highlands in Ethiopia’s Kaffa and Buno districts. In Café sospenso receipt box Vienna. Vienna’s grand old cafés are often described as ‘public living rooms’. Elegantly decorated, the menus list a variety of coffees (Fiaker, Maria Theresia, olden times, coffee was served with butter and salt. Even today, a two-three hour-long coffee ceremony is the most important social occasion in many villages, and it is a sign of respect and friendship to be invited. Kaisermelange, Biedermeier, Melange – to name a Qahwa is an Arabic coffee made from green coffee few), Viennese pastries and international newspapers. beans. It is a strong and fragrant coffee, thanks to It is perfectly acceptable for a guest to linger for hours, a heavy dose of spices. Arabic coffee is meant to reading newspapers and enjoying the charming taste robust and bitter. It is made and served from ambience, after ordering a single cup. a traditional vessel called dallah and is often served Qahwa 28 Liquid

coffee Ethiopian coffee with dates (or another sweet treat) to counter the bitterness. Coffee is to Germany what tea is to England. The traditional afternoon ritual of drinking coffee with sweets is called Kafeekuchen. In Finland, they drink coffee on cheese (juustoleipä) – the cheese is cut into small pieces and placed in the bottom of the cup, which is then filled with hot coffee. In Morocco, spices like black pepper and nutmeg are mixed with coffee. In China, coffee is mixed with tea in a welldefined proportion. In Greece, they drink frappé, a cold coffee with ice or vanilla ice-cream. The French love their café au lait. For Americans, the classic espresso was too strong, so they added hot water to create the Americano. In Australia and New Zealand, people seem never to be parted from their take-away coffee mugs. Always a tea aficionada, I only discovered coffee recently, and eventually was so enchanted that I took a barista course to learn to make it properly. I can make a decent espresso and latte, though am not qualified enough (yet!) to prepare 3D latte art, like the cute foam creations swimming in the crema that are so popular in Japan. L 3D latte art Annamari Somogyi, a diplomat, is the wife of the former Hungarian Ambassador to India. She started the T-Club in India in 2017. Liquid 29

news The World’s Largest Scotch Market to smaller producers who are effectively locked out by the substantial barriers to trade.” SWA analysis pointed out that easing the tariffs would boost market access and could allow for an additional one billion-pound growth over five years, also giving Indian consumers more choices. Some reciprocal concessions could benefit Indian whisky makers. In terms of value, the Indian market for Scotch is worth £282 million and ranks fifth worldwide. The Asia-Pacific region overtook the European Union in 2022 as the industry’s largest regional market, with double-digit post-pandemic growth also seen in Taiwan, Singapore and China. USA held on to its position as the largest market by value at £1,053 million. Photo: moodiedavittreport.com The Best Sommelier of the World 2023 India has overtaken France as the largest market by volume for Scotch whisky, with a 60% increase in imports in 2022 over the previous year. The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), Scotch’s industry body, reported that India imported 219 million 70cl bottles of Scotch compared to France’s 205 million last year. The Indian market for Scotch has grown by more than 200% in the past decade. SWA was quick to point out that despite this enormous bump, Scotch whisky still comprises a mere 2% of the very high-potential whisky market in India, mainly due to high tariffs. This is a key focus in the India UK Free Trade Agreement negotiations. Mark Kent, Chief Executive of SWA was quoted: “Tackling the tariff and state-level regulatory issues would open the market up 32 Liquid Raimonds Tomsons, from the non-wine producing Latvia, has made waves in the wine world, beating out competition from 67 countries to bag the title of Meilleur Sommelier du Monde at the La Défense Arena in Paris in February. Second and third place went to Nina Jensen from Denmark and Reeze Choi from China. Raimonds Tomsons is wine director of Barents Wine Collectors and Co-Founder at WineTeach, and regularly hosts tastings and education events in Latvia. The 42-year-old from Riga finished third at the last edition of the competition in Antwerp in 2019. William Wouters, President of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) that hosts the contest said, “Tomsons will be a fantastic representative of ASI, and an inspiration to the global sommelier community.” Ahead of the final, Tomsons stated that growing up in a country without a typical wine-making culture had been an advantage. “We don’t have a history and our minds are freer. In classic wine countries, they find it harder to

news open up to the wines of the world, because they are very proud of their own.” The competition comprises three rounds over a week. Competitors must demonstrate exceptional skills and knowledge through a variety of tasks including written theory, blind-tastings and service. This year, contestants endured an obstacle course of events including identifying five non-alcoholic beverages, imagining vegan pairing menus, and creating cocktails by introducing substitutes for missing ingredients. The final included blind-tasting, pairing wines with dishes, and finding errors in menus. Sustainability Rules at Prowein 2023 Started by ASI in 1969, this competition is held every three years. The announcement of the three finalists itself created a buzz, as it guaranteed that the outcome would bring a first – the victor was to be either the first woman, the first from China or, as it turned out, the first from the former Soviet Bloc to win the event. This year’s edition of ProWein (March 19-21), the world’s largest international wine and spirits trade fair held annually in Dusseldorf, Germany, emphasised sustainability. Themes ranging from wine-packaging alternatives to sustainable winemaking as well as low and zero-alcohol choices predominated. An entire hall was dedicated to the ‘World of Zero’ and celebrity singer Kylie Minogue launched an alcohol-free sparkling rosé. The post-show audit revealed that nearly every second visitor evinced interest in this category. ProWein 2023 hosted over 6,000 exhibitors from across 60 countries in 13 halls of the Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre. Notably more than 86% of exhibitors were from outside Germany. The show clocked 49,000 visitors from 141 countries and registered a jump in participation from Asia, especially India. The transport strike during the show didn’t seem to deter the visitors. Sumit Sehgal, co-founder of Aristol, said that the system of pre-fixed meetings was very conducive for business meetings and relevant networking. “I was able to meet the specific exhibitors I had wanted to. Post-show, I could visit the German wine regions of Rheinhessen Liquid 33

news and Pfalz.” Sumedh Singh Mandla, Chief Executive of V Bev, was able to meet his primary objective to connect with existing partners and explore new trends. ProWein hosted its first edition in 1994. Over the last three decades it has evolved into a key networking platform for wine estates, spirits companies, importers and wine professionals. “We have once again done our best to not just be good but better,” said Erhard Wienkamp, Managing Director of Messe Düsseldorf. The dates for ProWein 2024 have been confirmed for March 10-12. Liquid tip: book your stay now, even before you decide to attend the show! New Launches From Bira ‘Grizly’ Hard Seltzer Ales are all-natural, low-sugar alcoholic blends infused with herbs and fruits available in three flavours – Peach and Black Tea (4.5% ABV, 120 calories), Blueberry and Rosemary (4.5% ABV, 120 calories) and Pineapple and Okinawa (7.5% ABV, 180 calories). For now, it is retailing in Bengaluru, in 330ml pints and 500ml cans. ‘Hill Station Hard Cider Ales’ were introduced in late 2022, in time for new year celebrations. It includes three variants: Himalayan Apple Original (5.3% ABV), Himalayan Apple Strong (7.5% ABV), and Himalayan Apple Berry Twist (5.3% ABV). Made from a blend of Himalayan apples and mountain barley, the ciders are dry and mildly sweet with a base of orchard-fresh apples and a hint of malt. Earlier in 2022, ‘Imagined in India’, a set of four limitedrelease beers – Bollywood IPA, Kokum Sour, Brown Ale, and Mango Lassi – was launched. The company said its ‘Imagined in India’ beers are made with indigenous ingredients and inspired by ‘the raw creativity of today’s India led by emerging artists, entrepreneurs, and startups’. Milk Prices Rise Milk prices in India have risen by 15% in the last 15 months, a surge that industry experts believe will continue until October this year. India may be forced to import milk products for the first time in over a decade. India’s fastest-growing beer company, Bira, established in 2015, has completed a hat-trick of new products with its latest launch, ‘Grizly’ Hard Seltzer Ales. Ankur Jain, Founder and CEO, explained the avowed aim to move beyond beers with new flavours and tap into a growing young consumer base which is eager to The Consumer Price Index (CPI) of milk products has risen from 3.81% in February 2022 to 9.65% in February 2023. As milk holds a 6.5% weightage in the CPI, these price rises will leave an impact, according to Upasna Bhardwaj, Chief Economist at Kotak Mahindra Bank. experiment, and is discerning about choosing healthier Speaking of the various factors affecting milk inflation, options. “With ‘House of Bira 91’, we are looking to the Secretary, Department of Animal Husbandry and explore beverage categories that are gaining popularity Dairy, Rajesh Kumar Singh said that milk production to recruit more consumers in the 550 cities across 18 remained stagnant in the 2022-23 fiscal year due to an countries where we have a presence.” outbreak of the rare lumpy skin disease in cattle, while 34 Liquid

news Eco-friendly Tea Bags India’s first-ever 100% compostable tea bags have been introduced by Seven Spring from Gujarat, founded in 2020 by Sejal Purohit, with the vision to create all-organic teas that are ‘authentically real’. Purohit said: “We have reached a point where absurdly large amounts of single-use plastic are being used in tea bags. There are laws to eliminate the use of singleuse plastics. Seven Spring’s product range comes with sustainable and eco-friendly packaging.” These tea bags contribute towards reducing pollution. The new environment-friendly packaging cuts back on carbon emissions and has zero plastic consumption. The sachets are completely plant-based and can dissolve in water or mud. domestic demand grew by 8-10% in the same period. A 39% surge in exports of dairy products such as fats, butter and ghee also reduced stocks. Singh also cited higher fodder prices as a factor. He clarified that there was no overall constraint as such in milk supply, with adequate inventory of skimmed milk powder. Milk shortages might not be felt in North India, where Conventional teabags are not only environmentallyunfriendly, but may also pose significant health risks to unsuspecting consumers as they can be a source of microplastics, which cause damage to the immune system. In startling research, McGill University found that a single tea bag can release around 11.6 billion micro-plastic particles, and 3.1 billion nano plastic particles, when submerged in hot water. This is the flush season for milk production has been extended due to cooler temperatures after unusually heavy rains in March. While this has helped maintain profitability for dairy farmers, the steady rise in retail prices of milk has affected household budgets and is causing concern among consumers. India last imported dairy products in 2011. Generally high-value milk products like casein or specialty cheese are imported and not mass-consumed items such as butter or ghee. Singh stated that the government would take a call on importing mass-consumed products, keeping the interests of dairy producers at the forefront. He added that news reports were “causing apprehension among stakeholders”, and confirmed that no decision had been taken yet on any importation of dairy products. Liquid 35

news thousands of times more plastic than found in other foods and drink. Currently, Seven Spring’s compostable teabags are available on their website, Amazon, Big Basket and at partnering luxury hotels. Purohit aims to convert packaging for all products to compostable ones. Hopefully, more companies will follow this lead and offer healthier products. by bringing together Tequila and Sparkling Sake. The distinctive smoky flavour of fruit-driven Margaritas “pair well with citrus, herbs, and spices, which the Indian palate loves,” Singh observes. Mezcalita’s Cantina menu, created by Chef Pablo Bentiez, is an immersion in traditional Mexican fare including regional and street-side delights, which has so far eluded India. While known favourites like nachos, Mumbai’s First Mezcal & Tequila Bar tacos, guacamole and quesadillas will resonate with Mezcalita serves up a dedicated list of Mexican spirits murals painted by Mexican artist Senkoe and Aztec- and signature cocktails with authentic Mexican cuisine. Opened mid-March in Mumbai’s Churchgate by Rizwan Indian diners, some traditional stand outs include Aguachile Jícama, a spiced broth. The Portobello AvoBurger replaces the bread with avocado slices, while Habanero Prawns let loose Mexican spice. Mezcalita’s emphasis on authenticity extends to its generously colourful and busy interiors that feature print table tops. The bar itself is styled as a sacred limegreen homage to the Agave plant. Amlani and Vicky Singh, Mezcalita is the answer to the Vicky Singh says: “Mezcalita is the first dedicated visibly rising trend of an interest in all things Mexican. Tequila, Mezcal and Agave bar in India. We’ve There’s a special emphasis on Mezcal cocktails – the signature cocktails are ‘Cha-Chinga’ with herbs and showcased more than 30 well-known and small batch brands on the menu. We’ve come a long way from thinking about tequila as just a shot or an ingredient for chillies, while ‘La Pomela’ interplays a sharp base spirit a Margarita. Mezcalita taps into this evolving perception with intense grapefruit and Campari salt. ‘Oaxaca to of Mexican spirit and gives it a dedicated local space.” Osaka’ tips the hat to Mexico’s Japanese connection 36 Liquid L

society Women & Alcohol In India W omen in India have never shied from alcohol – though until recent generations, most female A study by global research firm UBS found that of drinking took place behind closed doors. Now, from Suntory India’s consumer survey for 2021 put women’s consumers to CEOs, women are a driving force in potential participation in drinking in India at as high as India’s rapidly expanding alcohol beverage industry. 45%. According to the Centre for Alcohol Studies, the Medical journal, The Lancet, puts the number of female women’s alcohol market in India is expected to grow by drinkers in India at 5.39 million, with women drinkers 25% over the next five years. India’s alcohol consumers, just 7.5% are women. Beam making up only 2% of the total population, as against 22% of men, and more women drinking in rural areas. They claim that, officially, India is among the lowest alcohol-consuming countries of the world where alcohol sales have increased by just 8% in three years. Women drink at par with men and are often better drinkers: they stay on their feet and behave better. It seems that these figures do not factor in that around two-thirds of the alcohol sales in India go unrecorded, thanks to the unorganized sector and bottles that are privately brought in. 38 Liquid There is a clear gap between reported numbers, and the industry trends that are being seen. Increasingly sophisticated liquor retail spaces are friendlier to

society wine companies approach the market. Bars, pubs and restaurants, as well as retail outlets, are targeting the female drinker with special offers and events such as ‘ladies’ nights’ and BOGO (buy one get one free) offers. Gaurav Soral, founder of Turquoise Cottage, Delhi’s first pub outside of a 5-star hotel where women could drink openly and safely, confirms this: “We now see almost equal numbers of men and women come in. Women drink at par with men and are often better drinkers: they stay on their feet and behave better!” Urban women no longer face as much stigmatization for drinking, and women going out to watering holes alone or in allwomen groups are also commonplace. women, who are the primary decision-makers when it comes to grocery shopping. Female shoppers are buying alcohol in numbers inconceivable even a decade ago. New rules that have made home-delivery of alcohol more widespread post-pandemic, have also driven up availability and consumption. The exposure through travel, increased societal acceptance, the availability of quality liquor, and events like tastings, are factors for the increase in women’s alcohol consumption. This has impacted how spirit and • • • • • Community Against Drunken Driving Survey Findings 37.6% said their alcohol use had increased 77% said friendlier retail spaces and special offers make buying alcohol easier 38.1% consume alcohol twice a week and 19.1% imbibe 4+ times a week 43.7% women aged 18-30 drink as a habit or for pleasure 41.7% women aged 31-45 drink due to occupational needs and social norms. Survey of 5,000 Delhi women aged 18-70 Liquid 39

society Women are making their presence felt in every arena of the alcohol space. men are drinking them too, and women are drinking traditionally ‘male’ drinks like whisky and tequila,” said Singh. Added exposure to alcohol comes with added health risks. Alcohol has long been classified as a Class 1 Old stereotypes around what women drink no longer apply. AD Singh, founder of the Olive Restaurants, has seen the drinking scene evolve in India over nearly three decades. “Women used to drive cocktails but now Ipsita Das, Moet Hennessy India 40 Liquid carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. An equivalent amount of alcohol has greater impact on women than men, due to their different body structure and chemistry. A World Health Organization Varna Bhat, Rahasya Vodka

Photo: Getty Images society study found that about 4% of breast cancer cases worldwide are attributable to alcohol use. As entrepreneurs too, women are owning the space, bringing fresh energy and innovation into the industry. Increasing awareness of health risks along with a worldwide trend towards healthier drinking, has led to a push towards non-traditional alcohols. Women consumers have for years comprised a significant market for traditionally ‘feminine’ alcoholic drinks like gin, rosé, and wine. Industry experts confirm that the demand for low-alcohol, non-alcoholic, gluten-free, and low-sugar beverages has gone up. The upsurge in newer offerings Increasingly sophisticated liquor retail spaces are friendlier to women, who are the primary decision-makers when it comes to grocery shopping. like hard seltzers, canned cocktails and flavoured beers signal these trends. This view is echoed by bar owners and bartenders. “Women tend to be more experimental in their drink choices.” Recent years have also seen a slew of women come into the industry. At every level, women are smashing glass ceilings in this traditionally male-dominated industry. Change has been long overdue, but it is here. As recently as 2007, the Supreme Court overturned a 1914 British-era law prohibiting women from tending bar in New Delhi. As entrepreneurs and creators, at managerial levels, in guest relations, marketing and design, as mixologists, bartenders and on the floor – women are making their presence felt in every arena of the alcohol space. Ipsita Das was recently appointed MD of Moet Hennessy India. Hina Nagarajan took over as CEO and MD of United Spirits Limited, Diageo’s Indian subsidiary. It is no coincidence that the arrival of women in leadership roles in the alcobev industry has dovetailed with increased access for, and acceptance of, women drinkers. There’s Yoginee and Ashwini, both doctorates from Mumbai’s Institute of Chemical Technology, who came together to launch Cerana Meads in Nashik. Or there’s Varna Bhat, a serial entrepreneur who launched Rahasya, a spiced vodka. The list is long, and growing by the day. The earliest written records of soma or alcohol in India are found in the Rig Veda. From the epics and Puranas to medieval texts and art, from queens to courtesans to village dwellers, one finds references to women who drank alcohol throughout Indian history. But, India’s relationship with alcohol has always been dichotomous in nature – indulgence and censure go hand-in-hand, and women, in particular, have historically borne the brunt of the latter. In the age of Manu, it was believed that women who consumed soma would be reborn ‘as jackals or other lowly animals’. It has been a long road from there to here, and that alone is worth drinking to. L Radhika Tandon Liquid 41

gin Photo: Adventurist Spirits GINaissance Good Times in Goa I n Let the Good Times beGIN, I shared with you my experience of gins from across the globe. Now, I’d they found a recipe that they loved enough to share with like to share the stories behind some fine Indian gins. or ‘>’ – which uses juniper and citrus from Macedonia Yes, that’s right... the country where gin and tonic was and Spain and fennel, coriander and ginger from Goa invented and where exotic gin botanicals are found in and Delhi. most home kitchens, only began to make its own gin not too long ago. others. Thus was born India’s first gin – Greater Than They wanted to introduce a premium variant, and next came Hapusa, which means juniper in Sanskrit. The Professionals gave up very successful and lucrative berries used in this gin are sourced from the Himalayan careers to become entrepreneurs and create their own region. The recipe is completed with turmeric, mango gin brands. Many of them decided that Goa would be and almonds. This gin has floral notes and a spiced the place to do so. finish. In 2015, bar owners Anand Virmani and Vaibhav Singh In 2018, another gin called Stranger & Sons was founded Näo Spirits. They got themselves a copper pot launched. This was produced by Third Eye distillery still and experimented with spices, herbs and fruits till which was co-founded by Sakshi Saigal, her husband 42 Liquid

Photo: Nao Spirits Photo: Adventurist Spirits Distillery gin Rahul Mehra (who also co-founded SVAMI tonic water of their signature cocktails accompanied by a cheese to offer better mixers) and her cousin Vidur Gupta. It platter and assorted munchies. has a hint of black pepper, nutmeg and mace. Angelica, Tamras is owned by a screen writer and ad-film maker liquorice and cassia add to the rich flavours of juniper. couple, Devika Bhagat and Khalil Bachooali. Tam is short for tamba which means copper and ras means Professionals gave up very successful and lucrative careers to become entrepreneurs and create their own gin brands. extract. As its name suggests, Tamras is a copper distilled, small batch, hand-crafted gin made with 16 botanicals. Seating us at their hammered copper bar, Devika led us through her craft distillery and engaged us as she talked about the distillation, production and bottling With my interest piqued (and because I was travelling process as well as the history of the brand. After all, with the family to Goa for Christmas), I wanted to see the she has written the scripts of the web series Four More process behind how gin is distilled. A few enquiries later, Shots Please as well as the films Ladies vs Ricky Behl we booked a gin-tasting tour online with Adventurist and Bachna Ae Haseeno. Spirits Distillery, makers of the fabulous Tamras gin. The Like many stories that begin over drinks, so did fee includes an in-depth tasting session with guidance Tamras’. In Devika’s words, she and Khaleel were on how to nose and taste the spirit, followed by a slew stranded in London one rainy day in 2018, and went Liquid 43

Photo: Nao Spirits gin on a gin-tasting spree with a bartender. After two years are distilled individually due to their differing boiling of backpacking in the gin universe, hunting down points. The five distillates are then combined slowly botanicals and gathering knowledge and wisdom and reduced to the bottling strength of 42.8% over 28 along the way, they dropped anchor in Goa in 2020 days, ensuring their extended stay on the palate. So, at the height of the pandemic’s first wave, and set up it takes at least two months before a bottle of Tamras their distillery with help from Julia Nourney, an award- Gin is ready. winning distiller from Germany. This is the first and only gin brand in India to open its The ingredients used in Tamras are a complex premises to the public. The distillery is so beautifully combination of botanicals, handpicked from across designed – Odysseus, their Mueller copper still made in the globe: Juniper berries from Macedonia, coriander Germany is the jewel in their crown – it could pass off seeds, lemon verbena and orris root from Morocco, for a boutique hotel or bar. The experience is any gin angelica root from Poland, black cardamom and cubeb lover’s delight. pepper from Indonesia, grapefruit from Egypt, fennel, green cardamom, lotus flower, lotus seed, mausambi, lemon, mint and Nilgiri tea from India. Well, I so enjoyed the storytelling over sips of Negroni and lazy martinis, that I just had to share all I had learnt with you. Here’s to fine Indian gins that are made in A five-step production process is used that makes the Goa… I will continue my Indian gin discovery and come gin stand out. The finest basmati rice from Punjab is back with more. L used to make the base spirit. The base gin is distilled with 12 of their 16 botanicals while the whole citrus fruits, Nilgiri tea, mint and lotus seeds and flowers 44 Liquid Shalini Virmani is a hotelier by choice, interior designer by profession, poet and author by passion, and wine & spirit aficionado for love.

wine Experimental Wines A Unique Collection S tuck in my attic (aka working from home) during the COVID crisis, I daydreamed of travel; of making Frustrated that I couldn’t make a great wine with wines from rare grapes in ancient, lesser-known wine Slovenia – because it’s difficult to grow healthy grapes regions. and monitor vinifications from thousands of miles away My adventure in wine began 13 years ago. I’d finished paying the mortgage, the kids had gone off to university, and I realised I hadn’t made any provision for my old age. So, I did what any sane, beer-loving person would do: I bought a small vineyard in Slovenia, where I couldn’t speak the language, and when I knew little about this land, growing vines or winemaking. my own grapes in the promised land of Jeruzalem, in a foreign country – I decided the best way was to use other people’s grapes, wineries and know-how. I took my chance to fulfil my dream in the vintage of 2022. My adventure began with harvest in Hungary and ended in a qvevri in Georgia, near the birthplace of wine. It involved modern disease-resistant grapes in Austria and steep-terraced vineyards maintained by goats in Slovenia. The neighbours showed me what to do but I wanted I tried to work with winemakers whom I admire and to raise the quality level, so I signed up for a part- respect – they would increase the chances of producing time degree in wine production at Plumpton College, something surprising and scrumptious. I challenged finishing top of my group. them: “No copycat wines. Nothing bland or insipid. 46 Liquid

wine skin contact in dry ice. Additional complexity and even deeper flavours come from a cool, slow fermentation (nearly five weeks at 17-18°C) while some of the richer mouthfeel, creamy texture and fuller body come from four months on lees and eight months in a third-fill French oak barrique. I bought a small vineyard in Slovenia, where I couldn’t speak the language, and when I knew little about this land or winemaking. Something special, showcasing historical grapes, neglected varieties – with experimental winemaking techniques thrown in to showcase the grapes’ full potential.” In 2021, I teamed up with Slovenian winemaker Leon Gjerkeš Goričko, near the Austrian border, to make my first wine – a Pinot Grigio that showed a different side of this much-maligned grape. A Pinot Grigio made for maximum flavour and colour. The copper colour – and the lifted aromas and deep flavours – come from Yes, an oaky Pinot Grigio is not going to appeal to the masses. But, like the rest of my collection, it is for adventurous wine lovers who want to try something completely different. And I eased my way into working with professionals to create, market and sell experimental wines. Altogether, I made six more wines in four countries – co-productions with talented teams that grow supremely healthy grapes and carefully monitor the wine’s development. I helped with the harvests and Liquid 47

wine steep-terraced vineyard, and Gewürztraminer from a vineyard near Maribor. • A Blaufränkisch made in a very traditional way in the highly underrated northeast Slovenia. The grapes were trodden by foot, fermented in an open vessel and then put in an old oak barrel. Nothing has been added so far! • A totally unique sparkling wine featuring the grape variety Pearl of Victoria (a hybrid created in Hungary in the 1960s), plus Grüner Veltliner (fermented in oak and steel). No one else in the world is using this combination of grapes. There may be a reason for that, but the base wine, that has been put into bottles for the second fermentation, tasted amazing – on the cusp of being a lovely still wine. An oaky Pinot Grigio is not going to appeal to the masses, it is for adventurous wine lovers. blends, made crucial decisions about the direction, and pushed everyone to push boundaries. All the winemakers have exceeded my expectations. The wines are tasting fantastic, but there is still time for me, nature, or leaky barrels to ruin them. Some wines still require blending or more time in their chosen vessel – but they are all showing tremendous promise. These six wines, that will be called Crazy Experimental Wines, are: • An unusual Kadarka (light and spicy with producers in two very different parts of Hungary who favour two very different technologies (one likes oak and the other likes stainless-steel tanks). The red wine will be a blend of the two. • A modern qvevri wine to showcase two of Georgia’s oldest aromatic white grape varieties, Kisi and Khikhvi. The amber wine was taken off skins, after six months, and will be topped up and left in the qvevri (under a blanket of nitrogen) until August. • An amber blend made in Austria using amphorae and Souvignier Gris and Muscaris. Souvignier Gris was made in three ways (in amphora, oak barrel and stainless-steel tanks with different lengths of time on skins) and the Muscaris in two ways (amphora and stainless steel, again with different skin contact). The final wine will be a blend of all five components. These will all be limited-edition wines – a small quantity of only 300-400 bottles each will be available when they are released later this year and in 2024. Prices could be $20-30 for the still wines and $45 for the sparkling wines. In the future, limited-edition wines from other countries, such as Italy, Spain, Moldova and Croatia are expected to be added to this range of unique, notseen-before wines. L • A white from Slovenia’s Haloze region. The wine is a co-fermentation featuring the workhorse variety, Laški Riesling (Welschriesling), from a stunning Chris Boiling is a journalist, editor and scriptwriter who shares his off-beat wine adventures and leads wine tours with yoga, kayaking or learning about wild bears! 48 Liquid

R Drink responsibly, dispose responsibly. ecycling of glass bottles has become unviable. Empty glass bottles are being dumped into already scarce landfill space - where they won’t decompose for a million years! Glass2Sand is an environment-friendly project that addresses this growing menace and creates a “zero waste” eco-system. Using an innovative “Made in India” technology, these bottles are crushed into silica-rich sand. Pledge your empty glass bottles to Glass2Sand. Call: +91 9810008289 | Mail: info@glass2sand.in glass2sand.in An initiative of the

Welcombe to our table W elcombe Hills Vineyard, in Warwickshire, England, is owned and managed by husband- and-wife team Jonathan and Nichola Kelsey. In 2017, a job change moved the Kelsey family 100 miles from London to this rural idyll, where they settled in a house on the Welcombe Hills just three miles north of Stratford-upon-Avon. The land surrounding the house, overlooking Stratfordupon-Avon where Shakespeare was born, was once farmed by the bard’s family. More recently, it was part of the Snitterfield Fruit Farm; the land still has plum and apple orchards and a strawberry field. The house also came with a small vineyard on rocky clay soil, sloping down to the River Avon. In 2001, the previous owners replanted the vineyard with half an 50 Liquid Photos: Welcombe Hills Vineyard wine

wine acre of Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, and Bacchus grapevines. grape varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and then In 2003, the vineyard was extended with 1200 more aged for five years on its lees. The characteristic cherry vines of Bacchus, Auxerrois, Chardonnay, and Pinot flavours of Pinot Noir are apparent, with redcurrants Noir Precoce. The first wine was made in 2007. suggested from the Pinot Meunier. Perfect with fish and Under the ownership of the Kelseys, more Chardonnay chips. and Pinot Noir Precoce was planted in 2010 and in The Tempest Bacchus 2021 2020. Another 3500 Chardonnay, Bacchus, and Pinot Bacchus is a wine grape that is well-suited to cooler Noir vines were planted, taking the total vineyard area climates and is widely grown in the UK. Bacchus white to 6000 vines in 4.5 acres. wine is similar to Sauvignon Blanc – elderflower aromas Today, Welcombe Hills has nine different grape varieties planted in its small vineyard, which allows it to create and very crisp and dry. Fine by itself, but goes well with light fish dishes, seafood, and goat’s cheese. blends that are not commonly found in English wine A Rose by any other name English Rosé 2021 production. With a nod towards the illustrious prior A pink blend of Pinot Précoce and Dornfelder, ‘A Rose by owners of the land, the wines are named after characters any other name’ smells of watermelon, redcurrants, and and phrases from William Shakespeare’s plays. cherry blossom. Pinot Noir Précoce is an early-ripening A selection of Welcombe Hills Vineyard wines Othello Pinot Noir 2020 mutation of Pinot Noir that is well-suited to the cooler UK climate. This fruity rosé can be enjoyed with salmon. It is a challenge to grow Pinot Noir grapes this far north, Titania Solaris & Seyval Blanc 2021 but Welcombe Hills’ Othello has typical Pinot Noir Seyval Blanc is a hybrid white wine grape variety that aromas of cherry, cranberry, and liquorice. Best enjoyed ripens early and is suited to cool climates. It has a with duck, venison, steak tartare, or mushroom dishes. characteristic citrus aroma and taste. Solaris is another Ophelia English Rosé Sparkling Wine 2014 Made from white Chardonnay and Auxerrois wines blended with red Dornfelder – a German grape variety – to make a pink sparkling wine that smells of raspberries, apples, grapefruit, and orange. Enjoy it with strawberries ‘n’ cream. Ophelia English Sparkling Blanc de Noirs 2014 A white sparkling wine made from the juice of the red early-ripening variety with good resistance against fungal diseases and frost – useful in chilly Warwickshire. It produces crisp, fruity, aromatic wines. ‘Titania’ is characterized by bracing acidity and freshness. An easy apéritif wine, or it can be had with fresh salads and fish dishes. L Stuart George graduated from Warwick and is a WSET Diploma in Wines & Spirits since 2000. His Arden Fine Wines sells fine and rare wine. Liquid 51

tequila Tequila Symbol of Mexico One Tequila, A Symbol of Culture Two Tequila, Tequila is steeped in culture and tradition. The legends Three Tequila of Don Juan Santiago or Pancho Villa are drenched in Floor!” tequila, as is the scary prospect of seeing the ghost T he lyrics that have immortalized this delicious liquid speak volumes of tequila, a delectable gift to Bacchus’ followers across the world. of La Llorona if you happen to consume a little too much. Tequila is both a symbol of and a tribute to the cumulative and collective Mexican heritage, history and identity. Many drinks, be they scotch, champagne, vodka or The legendary Don Juan Santiago was a man so sake, have interesting stories to tell. But how about passionate about tequila that he made a deal with a drink that served as a currency, or is presented the devil for an endless supply of the spirit. The devil with a worm at the bottom of the bottle? A drink that agreed, but warned Don Juan that he would have may drive you to sell your soul to the devil? With such to pay the price. Eventually, Don Juan lost his soul unusual distinctions, tequila’s reputation as a toast to and was doomed to spend eternity in hell, where he splendid folklore remains unmatched. continues to drink to this day. 52 Liquid

tequila So what is in this drink? Tequila is a symbol of the collective Mexican heritage, history and identity. Tequila is a unique spirit with a rich history, intricate production process, and a wide range of flavours, making it a favourite among drinkers worldwide. Originating from the Mexican region of Jalisco, it is The story above could be apocryphal, but this next one is true. Historically connected to the Mexican Revolution, tequila was drunk by the soldiers who also produced from the indigenous blue agave plant and has been enjoyed in the region for centuries. Tequila was considered sacred by the Aztecs, who believed used it as a form of currency. This connection to the that the agave plant was a gift from the gods. They revolution also makes tequila a symbol of Mexican also believed that pulque, a pre-Columbian beverage heritage and identity. made from the sap of blue agave, had medicinal and And the lore of the tequila worm dates back to the 19th century, when folks held the belief that a worm found at the bottom of a tequila bottle possessed magical properties and could bring good luck to whoever found it. In present times though, this old tale is largely spiritual properties. According to Mexican folklore, the agave was once a beautiful woman who was turned into a succulent plant by the gods to protect her from the advances of mortal men. The Blue Agave perceived as a marketing ploy. The worm is actually a The blue agave plant (Agave tequilana) is native to larvae of the Hypopta agavis moth, which infests the Mexico and is the only type of agave that can be used agave plant from which the spirit is distilled. to produce tequila. The production of tequila begins Liquid 53

Photo: Shutterstock/Jose de Jesus Churion Del tequila by harvesting the mature agave plants, which can take for a minimum of three years in oak barrels and is between seven to twelve years to grow. The leaves considered to be the finest form of tequila, with a of the plant are removed, revealing the heart or piña, which stores the majority of the plant’s sugars. The piñas are then roasted, mashed, and fermented to produce the alcohol. The distillation process involves distilling the fermented liquid twice to produce the clear, crisp, and smooth spirit that is recognized as complex and well-rounded palate. The blue agave plant is native to Mexico and is the only type of agave that can be used to produce tequila. tequila. Tequilas and Tequilas There are several types of tequila, each with its own unique flavour profile. Blanco or silver tequila is the purest form, with a clear, crisp, and clean flavour. Reposado tequila is aged for between two to eleven months in oak barrels, which imparts a golden colour A similar but distinct local spirit is Mezcal, an agavebased spirit made from the cooked and fermented heart of the maguey plant. Mezcal has a smoky, earthy flavour that sets it apart from tequila, and is often enjoyed straight or as a cocktail. and a smooth, slightly woody flavour. Añejo tequila is The Protocol aged for a minimum of one year in oak barrels and Tequila is most commonly enjoyed as a shot, but it is has a dark amber colour and a rich, smooth, and also used in a variety of classic cocktails, such as the complex flavour. Finally, extra añejo tequila is aged Margarita, Paloma, and Tequila Sunrise. A tequila shot 54 Liquid

tequila is traditionally served with lime and a pinch of salt. These accompaniments, it is believed, enhance the flavours of the tequila and create a balance between the salt and acidity. In addition to its delicious flavour, tequila is also said to have various health benefits. It is a low-calorie alcohol made from all-natural ingredients, which makes it a relatively healthier option compared to other alcoholic beverages. It is said to have antibacterial properties, which may help prevent illness, and has been shown to have a relaxing effect, which may reduce stress and improve sleep. Challenge of Authenticity Despite being enjoyed by millions across the globe, tequila still faces challenges in terms of regulation and authenticity. In 2019, the EU added tequila to its Register of Geographical Indications. The Mexican government regulates the production of tequila and has established strict guidelines. In order to be called tequila, the spirit must be produced in certain regions of Mexico and must be made from a minimum of 51% blue agave. These rules ensure that consumers receive only authentic, high-quality product. The Indian Connection There is a growing demand for tequila in India as consumers become more interested in premium spirits and international flavours. In recent years, a number of global tequila brands have entered the Indian market. Some bars and restaurants in India now offer a selection of tequilas, and a number of tequila-focused events and festivals take place in the country. Interestingly, there has been a growing trend in India towards using tequila as an ingredient in Indian cuisine, with chefs incorporating tequila into traditional dishes and drinks to create unique and innovative flavour combinations. Tequila’s appeal to men and women across the world and the pure joy and exhilaration that it brings when you consume it is legendary. As poet Juan Oliver put it: ‘A shot of Tequila can generally be. An enlightening experience you see, With lemon and salt, You’ll be devoid of fault, If forever after, you defer to green tea.’ L Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as a Secretary to the government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog. Liquid 55

brazil F ew countries can boast of a national cocktail – Caipirinha (pronounced kai-pi-rin-ya) is just that – as synonymous with Brazil as carnival, soccer and beaches. What began as a locally-produced drink of was declared an intangible heritage of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. So what is a caipirinha? Quite simply, it is a cocktail made with lemons, sugar and cachaça – the Brazilian Sao Paulo’s hill folk, has evolved into a chic cocktail, liquor derived from sugar cane. The lemons and sugar found in bars and restaurants around the world and are ‘muddled’, or lightly mashed to release the right mentioned in the International Bar Association’s list blend of flavours and textures. Internationally, cocktail of contemporary classic cocktails. In 2019, Caipirinha muddlers, shakers and crushed ice are used to build Cocktail of a Nation Caipirinha 56 Liquid

brazil the drink, but the authentic caipirinha is a simpler affair. A Brazilian, and caipirinha enthusiast, Lunds Carvalho, describes the traditional way of making this cocktail at home: “Cut the lemon in half and then slice into thin half-moons. Lightly muddle the lemon slices with sugar in a lowball glass. Remember, too much can make the Some believe that the cocktail was born when sailors, who mixed rum with citrus juices to ward off scurvy, switched to cachaca upon arriving on Brazilian shores. drink bitter. At home, we use a wooden spoon so the lemons can be pressed. Then, fill the glass with ice and add the cachaça, stir and finish with lemon slices. For proportions, our recipe is one lemon + one shot of cachaça + two teaspoons of granulated sugar.” Original recipes enlisted the ‘galeguinho’ lemon, a small yellow-green lemon that grew freely in the Sao Paulo countryside and in people’s backyards. Nowadays in Brazil, the ‘limão Tahiti’, a lemon about three times the size of an Indian nimbu, is more commonly used as it’s freely available, less bitter and has less seeds. The drink is built in the glass, or in a large jug, depending on the quantities being served. There are several stories about caipirinha’s origins. The Limão Tahiti word ‘caipirinha’ means ‘country girl’. It is derived from Liquid 57

Photo: Helder Prado brazil In 2019, Caipirinha was declared an intangible heritage of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. caipira, which in Brazilian Portuguese means ‘people from the countryside’. The city of Piracicaba, in the state of Sao Paulo, is a centre for the production of several big brands of cachaça, and its people are known for Piracicaba their distinctive country accents, so it is probable that the name originated here. A popular story is that it was created in 1918 by with sugar added as a sweetener instead, and thus caipirinha was born. the farmer Paulo Vieira, who popularized it among While historians generally agree that the cocktail first landowners and workers of the Sao Paulo hills as an became popular in the interiors of the Sao Paulo state, antidote for the Spanish Flu, that was ravaging the there are other versions of its origins. Some believe countryside back then. Even today, cachaça is used as that the cocktail was born when sailors, who mixed a remedy for the common cold. Vieira’s original recipe rum with citrus juices to ward off scurvy, switched to included garlic and honey, which were later dropped, cachaça upon arriving on Brazilian shores. Others say it is based on the Portuguese Poncha, an alcoholic drink from Madeira, brought over when the Portuguese came to Brazil to establish sugarcane plantations. Caipirinha is sweet and refreshing in the Brazilian climate, and is often made specially for gatherings such as soccer games, barbeques, festivals and dances, as well as being popular in bars and restaurants. Popular variants in Brazil are made using cachaça with fruits such as passion fruit, mango and pineapple. Several cocktails use the same trifecta of ingredients (lime, sugar, and spirits), but caipirinha stands a notch above, perhaps because it comes preloaded with its own distinct history, culture and tradition. Some popular examples of these ‘caipirinha cousins’ are the caipiroska, where vodka is used in place of cachaça, or the rum-based daiquiri. While these cocktails claim no particular national affiliation, caipirinha, thanks to its key ingredient, cachaça, is unequivocally Brazilian, no matter how far it travels. The availability of topquality cachaças in international markets has led to the popularity of caipirinha all over the world. L Radhika Tandon 58 Liquid

brazil THE CACHAÇA STORY In 2002, cachaça was included in Brazil’s impressive list of Geographical Indications (GI), an internationally-recognized form of protection given to products whose reputation and quality is inextricably linked to their place of origin. This began its journey from a locallyproduced, largely informal-sector drink, to a premium, globally-exported liquor. In Brazil, cachaça is often consumed in shots, before or after meals. Artisanal, high quality cachaças are reserved for drinking this way, while other cachaças can be used in caipirinha. One brand that has been an inextricable part of cachaça’s journey is the family-owned Engenho Dom Tapparo. It was started by current owner Giovanni Tapparo’s grandfather, with a dream – to put cachaça on the international map. Giovanni explained that as cachaça was primarily a locallyproduced liquor, the recipe was not standardized. A big part of the journey was to research and develop recipes that represent the best version of the liquor. Refined, high-end bottling was another aspect of cachaca’s transformation. “A good cachaça is better than many bourbons and whiskies,” says Giovanni, adding, “the older the product, the better and smoother it becomes.” Cachaça is aged in oak barrels, which affects its colour, flavour and smoothness. Giovanni has experimented with oak barrels from America and Europe, creating aged and mature premium versions of the drink. Cachaça Cabaré is a premium cachaça that retails at around US $200. Aged for 15 years in European oak barrels, it is the oldest cachaça sold by Dom Tapparo. With the company at the forefront of brands to have captured the US and European markets, the founder’s dream is being fulfilled. Engenho Dom Tapparo is generating interest in India and with the Indo-Brazil Chamber of Commerce, is gearing up to introduce its entire range in India, including its premium cachaças, several ready-to-drink cocktails such as Caipirinha and Tangerina, and liqueurs with flavours such as mint and chocolate. The products should be available in India later this year. Liquid 59

Photo: Shutterstock vietnam Mot! Hai! Ba! When in Vietnam A melange of cultural complexity and staggering natural beauty, complete with diverse hill world go by, surrounded by Vietnamese young and old. tribe villages and spirited megacities, Vietnam is the cycle rickshaws rumble in the near distance. While unconditionally and incredibly compelling. As are its sipping the same thing everyone else is sipping, just in plethora of beverages from the humble cup of coffee, varied glasses and flavours. to tea steeped in tradition, and trendy cocktails in the Vietnamese world of mixology. Teenagers giggle and the cacophonic symphonies of Cà Phê Vietnam is the world’s biggest producer of Robusta Perched on a little wooden stool no higher than my knee, coffee, with its acrid and bitter tendencies. I learnt that I have the most coveted seat in the house. Watching the the coffee beans are roasted with butter and fish sauce 60 Liquid

vietnam to bring out various chocolatey notes in the final brew. da – my favourite! A few ounces of the finely ground It’s impossible to walk a block of any street or alley in the Robusta is spooned into an aluminum phin, a small tin country and not see someone enjoying a cup of coffee. cup with tiny holes at the bottom. The phin is placed Coffee sailed to the shores of Vietnam in the mid19th century along with cheese, French baguettes and imperialism. In the highlands, the mountain range running down the county’s spine, the French discovered the perfect coffee-growing climate. over a glass lined with a one-third inch of sweetened condensed milk. Hot water is poured into the phin and the coffee drips into the condensed milk. When it’s done, the coffee and sweet milk are stirred together to make the addictive, caramelly cafe sua da. The list of coffee styles are endless, from coconut coffee Ask for ca phe Hanoi and you’ll get your coffee the to iced coffees, but the national jewel is their speciality, way northerners prefer it, a short coffee with a thick Egg Coffee. This weird combination of coffee served consistency. Ask for ca phe Saigon and you’ll be with whipped-up egg and condensed milk is a sweet drinking it the southern way. This is a long coffee — delight. The overall taste is similar to an egg custard, or think of a highball glass filled with ice and served with an extravagantly creamy and egg-heavy tiramisu. It was a straw. If you have a sweet tooth then it’s the cafe sua first created in Hanoi in 1946, by Nguyen Van Giang. In Vietnam is the world’s biggest producer of Robusta coffee, with its acrid and bitter tendencies. response to a milk shortage caused by the French War, Giang whisked in egg as a much-needed substitute while bartending at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. Giang’s signature drink became such a hit that he opened Café Giang in the wake of its success, and Egg Coffee mushroomed around the country. Liquid 61

vietnam Trà As a hopeless romantic and with my new found love of classic Vietnamese coffee houses, with their little plastic stools and old men playing checkers, I am enamoured by the artistic and creative energy that permeates coffee culture in modern Vietnam. That being said, tea culture here is as deep and opulent. Tea drinking is a social ritual in Vietnam. Through the sultry mornings and afternoons, people sit near old brick sidewalks and colonial shops adorned with art deco tiles exuding heritage and grandeur. There are a plethora of flavours, from the humble green tea to lotus tea. While visiting an apiary, I got my hands on a neverending glass of pandan leaf tea, with a dash of freshly harvested honey and a kumquat to add that bit of zingy umami, served with a caramelised banana wafer. Rather rejuvenating, despite the hot Vietnamese sun. Nuóc Dùa I scoured the country for more delectable beverages and discovered that the coconut is a form of religion dating back to the 1960s, when people worshipped and consumed nothing but coconuts. The Mekong Delta, accreted by its alluvial soil, known for its sampan rides and floating markets, bears some of the most bountiful and sweet coconuts to refresh your soul. Coconut fruit plays a vital part in Vietnamese cuisine. The insanely delicious taste of the coconut water made it a no-brainer to drink as much as I could. Tea drinking is a social ritual in Vietnam with a plethora of flavours, from the humble green tea to lotus tea. Bia These days, Vietnam’s love for cheap beer has become as significant in the culture as spring rolls and pho. So if you’re really looking to ‘go local’, you need to try the locally brewed Bia Hoi – a draft beer that is well-known for being tasty, cheap and delicious. Here, cold beer is seen as a delicacy and beer served with ice cubes is rather common across the country! Canned beer too 62 Liquid

vietnam is popular, and Beer 333 and Bia Hanoi are favourite local brands. The best places to find these are old towns, riverbanks, and local residential districts. In the evenings, you will see both tourists and locals in large groups, pick up a ubiquitous red plastic chair and sit around tables, catching up and enjoying some tasty cold beer, whilst listening to the chants of Mot! Hai! Ba! Dzo! (One! Two! Three! Drink!) Conviviality at its best! Pha Chế In Vietnam, eating and drinking possess a syntax and language of their own. Vietnamese people do not just drink and eat, they nhậu. To nhậu is to drink and to eat socially, to release oneself of daily burdens through communal imbibing, and to revel in the quaintness of life. Set amongst the inner city stalls of the Cho Cu wet Market, NHAU NHAU on 50 Best’s Discovery List, occupies an intimate space on the second floor of the famous Anăn restaurant (The Best Restaurant in Vietnam 2021), overlooking the street. Here, it’s as much about elevated street food, as the drinks. A large mural and a sign reading ‘don’t go home ’til you’re drunk’, by graffiti artist Suby One, introduces the retro-cool space with sixties’ vinyls framed on the curvaceous back bar – decked head to toe in octopussucker style tiles. True to its name, NHAU NHAU explores the flavours of central and northern Vietnam through its liquor. Spirits and homegrown rice wines are the highlights of the bar alongside a neat curation of whiskies, wines and innovative tropical cocktails. Full marks go to the Tra Da, gin-infused black tea with honey and soda and Ha Noi, a prosecco laden with lemongrass, gin, orange and lime. Despite a long history of foreign rule and exploitation, Vietnam’s resilient people have taken pieces of culture brought from their conquerors and moulded them into something entirely their own. So this is how you drink in Vietnam: You sit and savour and sip. And wherever you sip and whatever you sip, remind yourself – as I often do – that you’re in Vietnam. Sip it slowly. L Xenia Lam is passionate about travelling, writing and art. She has a Masters in Gastronomy from the University of Gastronomic Sciences, Pollenzo. Liquid 63

Photo: Shutterstock bar Of Gastropubs and ‘Chefologists’ T here is a new wave of chef-owners emerging from the kitchens of their restaurants to make their way menus speak volumes conceptually, there is an equal behind the bar – to create an added appeal for their trained milogists to an exceptionally robust collection patrons. Even pre-pandemic, food establishments had of spirits, right down to mixing up classic yet trendy been struggling to stay afloat. It has taken this worldwide libations. incident to put things in perspective, especially in highly service-driven spaces. concentration on investing well in their bar – from Chef/Owner-driven concepts which have escaped unhurt from the pandemic’s clutches, have re-moulded Popular Mumbai restaurants which were christened the way they are attracting diners. “Mumbai has the ‘high energy’ – think Olive, Bastian, or chef-driven highest restaurant rentals in India. Sufficient revenue Masque and Americano – have synchronized a fine must be generated from both food and drink for balance between their drinks and food. While their hospitality concepts to deliver highest profitability,” 66 Liquid

bar says Pankil Shah of gastropub Woodside Inn, a classic example of food-meets-drink under one roof. His latest outlet in Bandra churns out classics as well as riffs, consistently dishing out exciting drink concepts – Craft Beer Tastings, Cocktail Guru, Happy Brunch, Wednesdays Live, and bar takeovers. Inability to travel and isolation during the pandemic led to ‘Revenge Dining’. Hotel chains noticed that guests had a higher propensity to pay and chose to provide a Aviation diners throng to them, turning into loyalists. Seefah’s in Bandra is an Asian kitchen run by Chef Seefah and her husband Karan. An unexpected change of location due to the pandemic changed the couple’s original plan Not a Hot Chocolate to get a bar license after four years. The new space already had a bar license and that was their cue to complete meal experience. At JW Marriott Sahar, the introduce a bar program. “Post-pandemic, we definitely classy mezzanine bar at Romano’s provides a veritable needed a bar,” says Seefah. platform for their mixologists as much as their chefs, as does the high-energy Dashnzi at JW Marriott, Juhu. Together with newly-hired Head Mixologist, Sunil Prathab, who brought his vast knowledge of mixology Some restaurants are doing fabulously well in the food gained working around the globe, signature cocktails department; their menus speak for themselves and using Asian condiments and ingredients from the Garnishes from the kitchen are duplicated in the bar to create a recall of the entire experience. kitchen were conceptualized. Their favourite is the ‘Seefah Cocktail’ using her Somtam salad dressing with elderflower, and a starfruit brine from their kitchen, for their take on a martini. Hitesh Keswani of Opa, a Greek-themed restaurant since 2015, has been in the hospitality business long Liquid 67

bar enough to know that a bar brings in cash-flow that keeps a restaurant running comfortably. ‘Opa Signature’, a concoction of gin, clarified coriander cordial, fernet branca and gherkin brine, is well-appreciated, as is the whisky cocktail ‘Opa!’, a nice twist on a bourbon mule made with blended whisky, falernum and ginger syrup, apple cider vinegar and soda. Many garnishes from the The planning of SAZ at Jio World evolved during and after the lock-downs. Their unique bar program, which clocked in a marked 10% increase in sales, focuses on classic cocktails using new techniques including fermentation, pickling, barrel aging, hydrosol… their end-goal is to educate customers on new techniques, using less-familiar but now readily-available spirits. Be it the need to ramp up sales or a desire to engage their diners in a complete experience, restaurants are doing their bit by innovating, experimenting and changing the way guests experience bars. L Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food expert, restaurateur & writer (Nonchalant Gourmand) who strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life. Opa! Popular Mumbai restaurants have synchronized a fine balance between their drinks and food with menus that speak for themselves. kitchen are duplicated in the bar to create a recall of the entire experience in synergy. Opa’s bar program has increased sales by 15-25%, says Hitesh. “One has to identify the guest’s palate and upsell accordingly.” 68 Liquid Love & Lace