Grey Glacier in Patagonia CHILE WHERE NATURE IS A DREAM C hile is a unique long and narrow territory in the far south of the American continents, protected by majestic natural barriers such as the Andes Mountains, the Atacama Desert and the Pacific Ocean, which not only give it wonderful landscapes that attract travelers from across the world, but also allows it to be a fertile land for a great variety of products, of an incredible quality and incomparable flavour. Often referred to as the “last place on Earth”, Chile enjoys a dynamic geography. The driest desert in the world, skies fit for space observation, fertile lands that grow sweet fruit, seas that harvest some of the most renowned catch in the world, and a Patagonia that enchants all those who dare to accept the adventure of exploring this destination. Santiago Chile is a box of surprises that invites you to travel through this long and narrow territory. Be one

advertisement of 24 million passengers arriving in Chile at the Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez Airport in the capital city, Santiago. Open the box full of most diverse experiences that will trigger your senses to new cultures, scenic beauties, colours and aromas, and in turn show the spirit of this country that stands out for the warmth of its people and for the identity stamped in its historical sites and emblematic places of its territory. Enjoy unforgettable postcards in the absolute everyday life. You can enjoy beautiful sunrises in the Andes, enjoy activities in the ski resorts and enjoy the exquisite culinary tradition of the central region. You could break the geographical barriers, strengthen cultural ties and explore everything that it has to offer. Vineyards Cumming Street, Bismark Square, Alegre Hill, Concepción Hill and the Port of Valparaíso. Colchagua: The Gran Chamán valley is well known for its vineyards, wineries, and the Museum of Wine. Take a cable car to Chamán Hill and delight your sight at the local constellations’ observatory. Torres del Paine: In the Patagonia, the extensive infra-structure developed in this UNESCO biosphere reserve national park makes it a much demanded destination for MICE tourism. Visit Chile, Enjoy Chile. Salar de Aguas Calientes The experience begins with extremes. Starting in the north, in the Elqui Valley, engage in a mystical stargazing experience at the world’s first International Dark Skies Sanctuary. Venture south and hike or sail through the Southern Patagonian ice fields – the largest remnant of the ice sheets that covered south Chile in the last glacial period. All this accompanied by the best gastronomic offer and an incredible wine heritage. Some destination ideas include: Valparaíso: The artistic and cultural attractions include Bellavista Hill, La Sebastiana, Cárcel Hill, Valparaiso

F I N E PAGE 10 PAGE 62 FINE Food PAGE 100 6 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Event FINE Best Indian W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A PAGE 34 PAGE 68 FINE Gallery FINE Sport PAGE 134 FINE Bordeaux

A N N I V E R S A R Y I S S U E FINE Contents T E N T H PAGE 142 FINE Celebrity PAGE 154 FINE Films 9 FINECHIEFEXECUTIVE A FINE Decade PAGE 162 PAGE 190 FINE Travel FINE Store 10 FINEEVENT A FINE Launch 18 FINEANNIVERSARY FINE India Eighth Anniversary 34 FINEGALLERY Les Arts de l’Effervescene - Champagne 44 FINEHISTORY Champagne Charlie 52 FINECHAMPAGNE Bubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble 62 FINEFOOD Sushi & Champagne - The Perfect Pairing ? 68 FINESPORT The Perfect Start to…(Wimbledon) 76 FINE100BEST 100 Best Champagnes in 2016 98 FINEGADGET The Secret of Everlasting Champagne 100 FINEBESTINDIAN The Best Indian Wines 2012 106 FINEREVIEW The Wines of India 108 FINEGEORGIA Georgia - Cradle of Wines 114 FINEJAPAN For Goodness… Sake! 124 FINESPARKLING Nothing But Delight - Franciacorta 134 FINEBORDEAUX Le Clerc Milon 142 FINECELEBRITY An English Man in Chianti 152 FINEIRVIN Movies and Wine 154 FINEFILMS Buying in Bond 162 FINETRAVEL Rail Royalty - The Maharajas’ Express 170 FINELIFESTYLE Lamborghini 182 FINESPOTLIGHT Budapest 190 FINESTORE Wine Paradise - Hedonism 202 FINEHOTEL Royal Champagne 212 FINEDESTINATION Castles, Capital, Cuisine - Luxembourg FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 7

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WRITERS FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Volume 11 Issue 3-4 Q3-Q4 2021 Editor Rajiv Singhal Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited Chief Executive Ritu Singhal Bordeaux Correspondent Ch’ng Poh Tiong Wine Manager Radhika Puar Marketing Devyani Aggarwal Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul Digital Media Udit Singhal Photographs Hunesh Ajmani Administration Ankita Thapa Cover Photograph Tim Mossholder Editorial & Business Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in Subscriber Information T: +91 11 23359874-75 RNI no. DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098 Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001, India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, India. All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing India does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 8 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Ritu Singhal co-founded Group Ritu, which has interests in publishing, international consulting, marketing, brand building, e-learning and private equity. Trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay, Ritu is up for any gastronomic adventure as long as it is vegetarian. Rajiv Singhal studied Economics at Yale and is a first generation entrepreneur who simplified access to the Indian market for international clients. Rajiv set up the market for wine in India over the last 25 years and is the Ambassador of Champagne to India. Tyson Stelzer is an award-winning wine writer, television host and producer and international speaker. Chief Editor of the Halliday Wine Companion and co-creator of The Great Australian Red Competition, Tyson is the author of 17 wine books. Amanda Regan has a Master’s degree in Wine Technology, Management & Marketing, experience of making wine in Champagne, Burgundy and Victoria and a background in art and design. Amanda is a wine judge in major international competitions. Pekka Nuikki is one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe and has published acclaimed wines and art books. Pekka is an award-winning photographer and a very lucky man, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Juha Lihtonen is a renowned Finnish sommelier who was Best Sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Juha is a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, and the Editor of FINE magazines is his day job! Adam Lechmere has been writing about wine for about 17 years, including at BBC Online, and now contributes freelance to international publications. Adam travels frequently, judges wine competitions and lives in London with his wife and three daughters. Meri Kukkavaara studied art in Florence and is an interior designer, with interests in art and education. Meri is a keen student of life and in her few time enjoys taking up courses such as drumming, Indian cooking and tango. Richard Juhlin is a champagne connoisseur and expert, who is envied for the number of champagnes he has tasted – 12,000 – in his lifetime, and whose champagne books are much sought after. Richard was appointed Chevalier de Legion d’Honneur by the French President. Mary Kae Irvin is a wine educator and an accomplished actor and voice talent. Mary Kae enjoys quality time with friends, has never met a stranger and is committed to changing the world – one glass at a time. Stuart George founded Arden Fine & Rare Wines to offer a fine and rare wine experience to private clients. Privileged to have tasted vintages back to 1780, Stuart lives in London, plays the guitar and follows cricket in his free time. Lara Cowen is highly qualified – WSET Diploma holder, Certified Educator, Sake Educator; Certified Specialist of Wine; Certified Sherry Educator – and trained as a pastry chef. Founder of Cru Classe Hospitality Corp, Lara lives in Vancouver with her family. Ch’ng Poh Tiong trained as a lawyer and is a consultant, judge and writer in the wine space. Author of many books, he specialises in Bordeaux. Poh Tiong plays the 7 string qin and is happiest when he laughs together with his daughter. Andrew Caillard founded the Langton’s wine auction house and the very prestigious Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine. A prolific writer, influencer and Master of Wine, Andrew is a wine marketing graduate of Roseworthy Agricultural College. Essi Avellan is the first Master of Wine from Finland and holds a Master of Science degree in Business Administration. A champagne and sparkling wine specialist, Essi judges at several wine competitions and received Chevalier l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole from the French Agriculture Minister.

t seems like just yesterday when we first “uncorked” and “decanted” our “vintage” at The Aman New Delhi with friends of FINE and friends of wine. Sixteen iconic wines from India’s independence vintage of 1947 and the 1907 Heidsieck & Co Monopole ship-wrecked champagne stood in ovation and Champagne Taittinger flowed freely through evenings of celebration that paid homage to this historic occasion. FINE Chief Executive I A Fine Decadee Our luxury magazine, FINE Wine & Champagne India, has best complemented the pioneering work that we have done to build the market for wine – glass by glass – in a scotch guzzling India since 1997 – much before the garrulous appeared on the wine scene to follow in our footsteps. With FINE, we dared to go where none had chosen to go before – our year-long painstaking journey through a multitude of government offices was finally rewarded – and we are very proud that ours is the first, and still the only, wine magazine in India that is officially recognised by the government and is duly compliant with Indian law. Page by page, we laid the foundation to a ten-year milestone that is cherished by the FINE India team. We put our hearts into what we do as we can bundle all our resources into another issue for your reading pleasure. We are widely recognised as the benchmark and have set the bar quite high. And, perhaps this is why we have been blatantly (and unflatteringly) plagiarised. Our team feels that our focus on quality is borderline fanatic. This is what has helped us create the masterpieces that have wowed all who go through our magazine cover to cover. FINE is a must-read for all those who settle for nothing short of the best. The world of fine wine was an unknown and we have hand-held new people as they took on this journey – many became supportive loyalists and (sadly) some waywards remained guided by their own short-term interests as they punctured the interest of global majors in our market. Hopefully, all will fall in line and wine will win. Navigating bumpy roads and speed breakers, we have stayed focussed on delivering on our promise to feature the FINEst from around the world for you. Through these ten years, FINE has captured timeless moments across vintages, regions, people, experiences and luxury offerings in its pages. What an eventful and inspiring learning experience this has been! Reliving these just wouldn’t be the same without you. Our Anniversary Specials have been meticulously curated to bring those special moments back – so that we can drool over the treasured wines and unforgettable experiences together! As we waltz into another year, we pray that some dreadful years of isolation are now behind us. Let this be the FINEst year ever for our FINE friends, fuelled again by the fun and excitement of in-person experiences. Join us to raise a glass to a FINEr decade as we enhance the “aromas” in the fine wine space! R itu Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 9

A 10 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Finec

FINE Summer 2011 Launch Text: Ritu Singhal Photos: Some Name I n true Finn tradition, we shook hands at Helsinki’s Vaanta International Airport to seal a deal for what would be India’s first “real” wine magazine. We had been introduced to Pekka Nuikki, the flamboyant founder of the world’s finest wine publishing house, by Dhruv Sawhney, a wine connoisseur, collector and fellow aficionado. The Champagne cuvées that had given us “highs” got us started and were the common ground for our first meeting in our offices in New Delhi. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 11

and laying the foundation of the market for wine in India. It was imperative that more from India joined the handful who played in the fine wine arena! We had been prodded. A discussion that began with an offer for a new publication title, culminated with a first-of-itskind joint venture agreement with OY Fine Publishing Helsinki Ltd for a unique luxury magazine – FINE Wine & Champagne India – to educate, inspire & initiate its readers into the world of fine wine. FINE India's quarterly issues would offer fascinating insights into The Finnish visitors gave us FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA privileged exchanges with wine moguls, much to chew on. It had been commentaries on exclusive wine tasting, pioneering much more... over a decade that we had been 12 vineyards, wine activities drinkability of rare & fine wines and

FINE Summer 2011 We had no background in publishing, still we decided to accept the challenge to stitch together a world class publication on fine wine that would propel more oenophiles into the fine wine space. India is fabled for its complex myriad of regulations. Those that govern magazines are even more stringent. International collaborations are frowned We patiently worked through the process – attracts more layers of scrutiny. of our government – and succeeded in Without any experience to draw upon, wine magazine in India wholly compliant upon. Any connection with alcohol we were banking on peers and similar publications who, we naively assumed, would’ve obtained the requisite permissions. It came as a shocker that the plethora of existing publications focusing on alcoholic beverages were not completely cleared for business – some had not even bothered to get themselves registered. helped along the way by visionary officers registering the first officially recognized with the laws of the land. The grand launch was at The Aman New Delhi, a 6 acre oasis of contemporary luxury with views on the world heritage Humayun’s Tomb in plush Lutyen’s Delhi. Traditional aesthetics embody simplicity and intricate jaali work in sandstone synthesize into an architectural delight, which our guests FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 13

soaked in as they the wound their way through the long corridors of The Aman. Fitting to the momentous occasion and to enhance the mood of the evening, Champagne bearing the family name of the very generous Clovis Taittinger flowed through the entire evening. All guests – friends of FINE, wine lovers, wine enthusiasts, wine professionals, diplomats, journalists, celebrities and well-wishers – enjoyed a rare treat. Our partners from FINE Helsinki – Pekka Nuikki, Juha Lihtonen and Essi Avellan MW – were in India to launch FINE India and re-iterate their commitment to evolve the landscape of fine wine in India. It was a proud moment for all partners as the Guest of Honour, Dhruv Sawhney, unveiled the FINE India masthead and released the inaugural issue. He was extremely generous with his praise, “Wine lovers like myself have been waiting anxiously for the launch in India of one of the world’s best wine magazines, which are bringing about a quiet revolution. FINE will fill a long awaited need in the market. We will derive immense pleasure from reading FINE. This 14 incredibly FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA informative

and consumption in India.” The evening also witnessed an exhibition of critically acclaimed photographs of wine landscapes by Pekka Nuikki, photographer and passionate wine lover from Finland atmosphere of battle between sanity and dark depths of the soul! In Wine Views by Nuikki, he presented his relationship with wine scenery – depth, absence of time, nature confronting man. The intensity of these images almost fades the boundaries between nature and art. which was inaugurated in the presence The stunning rendition inspired by Slav of France. Nuikki´s work is often cover wowed all guests as they thumbed of H.E. Jerome Bonnafont, Ambassador characterized by his singular use of surrealistic views to achieve a special FINE Summer 2011 magazine will increase appreciation culture by Minna Liukkonen on the their way through the pages of FINE – and they gave FINE a thumbs up! > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 15

The FINE Ambassadors' and High Commissioners' Table Our Eighth Anniversary Dinner Text: RITU SINGHAL Photographs: HUNESH AJMANI 18 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019 T he twelfth day of May, two thousand and nineteen marks yet another milestone for FINE Publishing India. Launched in 2011 as India’s first and only officially registered wine magazine – FINE Wine & Champagne India still remains the only one that is compliant with the guidelines of the Government of India! And to celebrate its 8th anniversary, Team FINE is delighted to welcome thirteen Ambassadors and High Commissioners of wine producing countries. They have selected a wine each – that they believe represents their country and one that they have agreed to defend – to present to this very unique and now much awaited annual wine showcase. Australia, Champagne and Portugal continue their perfect attendance record – eight on eight! In this eighth edition, these three are joined by Canada, Greece, Hungary, Japan, Mexico, New Zealand, Spain, United Kingdom and the United States of America. Luxembourg makes its debut. This year, FINE has accepted a very kind invitation from Rohit Khosla, Executive Vice President – Operations (North, West and East India), Indian Hotels Company Limited and Satyajeet Krishnan, Area Director (North) and General Manager, Taj Mahal Hotel New Delhi to host our anniversary extravaganza at the landmark Taj Mahal Hotel on Mansingh Road that was firmly studded back in the Taj FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 19

jewels in the preceding months. We have chosen Varq’s modern Indian melange of artistic and culinary excellence to reiterate FINE’s belief in “local”. Each wine has been diligently paired by Executive Chef Arun Sundararaj with the delectable fivecourse meal that will highlight flavours of incredible India. At the appointed hour, our FINE guests make their way down the steps of the sweeping majestic white Makrana marble staircase to be greeted in the Reception room which has sweeping views of the venerable mango trees (that pre-date the hotel) in the sprawling gardens that reflect Moghul grandeur. Guests do their customary click against the larger-than-life image of the cover of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine on the photo wall. And, then are treated to the beautifully laid out delicious bites with the “Reception” selection from both shores of the Atlantic. The “Reception” red is from the United Kingdom. The easy-drinking Gusbourne Pinot Noir 2016 is presented by Sir Dominic Asquith, British High Commissioner, who announces that his year-long preparation for this moment of glory for English wines has, yet again, been upstaged by royalty – the baby boy, born to the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, who is seventh in the line of succession to the British throne! Extremely optimistic, as perhaps the circumstances demand, Sir Dominic is convinced that many English wines are competing with their better established counterparts and the rest will only be better in the future. The other “Reception” red is from the United States of America – the full-bodied Chateau Ste Michelle Syrah 2014 – presented by MaryKay L Carlson, the Deputy Chief of Mission and Jeanne F Bailey, Minister Counsellor for Agricultural Affairs. Twinning in immaculately draped black sarees, both ladies recite a piece of poetry that Jeanne has written specially for this evening! The wine is fine, the guests divine And while we sit and talk and dine Remember that all nations share A heritage of drink and fare That binds our hearts across the miles So raise a glass, with tears and smiles To toast the night, our hosts, all guests Who make this evening truly blessed 20 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

The bar has, indeed, been raised with this heartwarming poetry – and what a lovely pairing for the wine. In my role as Chief Executive of FINE, I rise to welcome our guests and thank the heads of all the participating missions for their support. A special mention is reserved for Ambassador Gyula Pethő (Hungary) and High Commissioners Harinder Sidhu (Australia) and Nadir Patel (Canada) for spoiling us with their generosity for four consecutive years. FINE Winter 2019 Bernardaud show-plate that accentuates the design (the distribution of Bernardaud porcelain hotelware in India is now handled by Group Ritu). Alongside is a glass which carries the tag – Luxembourg – making its debut at the FINE Table as part of the FINE Novelty Showcase. “Blessed with the sunny side of the Mosel, Luxembourg has been producing wine for over 2000 years. Bernard Massard is one of our largest wine producers with a strong historic connect. Victor Hugo, the famous French writer, poet, dramatist and artist, stayed in the Chateau de Schengen when he was exiled by Napoleon III. Here, he painted the Chateau and Bernard Massard took the rights to use a painting on their label”, says H.E. JeanClaude Kugener, Ambassador of Luxembourg as he defends his choice of the Chateau de Schengen Riesling 2016. “The Schengen Treaty was signed in 1985 near the Schengen village on-board the liner ‘Princess Marie-Astrid’ at the spot on the river Moselle where the international borders of Luxembourg, France and Germany meet. This wine has a connect with all Indians who aspire for a visa to several European countries”. Bhavna Mehta, Director PR & Marketing for the Taj Mahal Hotel steps in for General Manager Satyajeet Krishnan, who is under the weather. “It’s the Taj Mahal Delhi’s 40th anniversary and we are so proud to be able to keep our doors open for at least another 33 years.” Drawing attention to the imposing wall-to-wall mural in the restaurant that was created and completed by the celebrated artist, Anjolie Ela Menon, she adds “Varq celebrates art. The plates offer visual delight and authentic flavors please the palates”. As we settle into our pre-assigned seats in the Varq dining room, the amuse bouche is served on the exquisite FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 21

how the Grandes Marque Piper Heidsieck partnered with Christian Louboutin to create the red-soled crystal stiletto in homage to the ancient custom of drinking champagne from a woman’s shoe! Rajiv is grateful. “Because of connoisseurs like you, champagne is steadily growing in India. Thank you for appreciating our bubbles!” The first course of Tandoori Bhatti Prawn (Beetroot Galouti for the vegetarians) is served with the next flight of wines – Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2018 from New Zealand and De Bortoli Woodfired Shiraz 2017 from neighbouring Australia. “Today, we are celebrating International Sauvignon Blanc Day”, H.E. Joanna Kempkers, High Commissioner of New Zealand reminds us. “So, I present Sauvignon Blanc, a grape that New Zealand is best known for in the wine world. The founding winemaker of Cloudy Bay, Kevin Judd, made his own label which has been securing top awards.” Australia has stormed the market for imported wine in India in recent years. High Commissioner H.E. Harinder Sidhu and Trade Commissioner Mark Morley present a wine made from the iconic Shiraz grape from the Heathcote district in Central Victoria. De Bortoli is introduced as one of the few, still family owned, large wine businesses with a history dating back over a 100 years to the Italian migrants in the continent. Ambassador of Champagne, Rajiv Singhal, raises a FINE toast – the extra brut Piper Heidsieck ‘Essentiel’ is so lively and refreshing and rounded despite its four years aging – and shares 22 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Murg Methi Malai Soufflé (Flower Chaat with Pumpkin Mash for the vegetarians) accompanies Monte da Ravasqueira Touriga Franca 2013 – the wine chosen by the Ambassador of Portugal, H.E. Carlos Pereira Marques – who had to delegate the task of presenting the wine to Charge d’Affairs, Sofia Batalha, and the Economic and Commercial Counsellor, Luisa Lino. A family owned company of three generations works with the indigenous varietal, Touriga Franca, in the Alentejo wine region that is gaining on the fashion quotient with wine-lovers. Varqi flavours from the south of India are laid out next – Kerala Duck with Caramelised Onion Quinoa Pulao and Paniyaram (Jackfruit Pepperfry with Alleppey Curry and Appams for the vegetarians). The ancient civilisations of Greece and Japan constitute this wine flight.

FINE Winter 2019 H.E. Panos Kalogeropoulos, Ambassador of Greece, has brought in the Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton from the Peloponnese region near the Gulf of Saronici in Macedonia. A unique blend of indigenous varietals “Avaton is an old Greek word that means a place that is inaccessible and unapproachable, endurable and sacred. The unique blend of three ancient and indigenous grape varietals – Mavroudi, Mavrotragano and Limnio (mentioned by Aristotle in the 5th Century BC) – inspired the producer to christen it, thus”. The accompanying wine on this flight has travelled far – from the land of the rising sun. The Ambassador of Japan, H.E. Kenji Hiramatsu, and his spouse Patricia, share the Suntory Japan Premium Merlot 2013. “Very gentle touch, very nice and very Japanese! This is a true Merlot made by the beverage giant, Suntory, in the Yamanashi-ken prefecture”. The evolution of winemaking in Japan is a story of perseverance in challenging climatic conditions – very hot, very humid with a lot of rain – which are countered by European trained wine teams that have planted vineyards that are 700 metres above sea-level. It’s time for the mains – Dahi Gosht with Kashmiri Pulao and Modern Breads (Subz Chhena for the vegetarians) – and with it a line-up of big bold reds from Spain, Canada and Mexico. We welcome back Spain to the FINE Table. Ambassador H.E. José Ramón Barañano Fernández sends his apologies through his representative – the Cultural and Press Attaché, Ignacio Vitórica Hamilton – but with the delicious Beronia Crianza 2013. “A wine for Sunday lunch with my parents; a wine for dinner at home; a wine with friends over a relaxed evening at a nice Madrid bar; a wine that brings many together; a wine to be shared with good company – this is why we bring to you this Rioja, which needs no prior introduction.” Canadian High Commissioner H.E. Nadir Patel doesn’t mess with tradition and passes the baton onto Deputy High Commissioner Soyoung Park and his “much much better half ” Jennifer Graham to present Laughing Stock Vineyards Syrah 2012 from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. The Enns chucked cushy jobs in the financial world to establish this winery and everyone around them thought they were completely foolish, silly and stupid – the ridicule prompted them to call their offering “Laughing Stock”. The bottle is quite unique. It has no label – just FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 23

believes so and thanks all for patiently waiting for his chosen Hungarikum. Tokaji was proclaimed as “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings, King of Wines) by the French King Louis XV. And, Gyula picked from my FINE wine notes on the designated origin Tokaj Nobilis Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2008 to announce, “you don’t need dessert”. Yet, this liquid gold is in perfect sync with the trio of Mango Kheer, Jalebi and Custard Apple Kulfi with the Varq signature – a divine pairing. The FINE Anniversary’s new address this year brings back special memories of the last four decades at this magnificent property. An ambitious endeavor to showcase spicy Indian food might have challenged Chef Arun and his team a bit – but, the post-pairing balance was testimony to our collective success. a string of alphabets that wrap round to let you decipher the message! An inspiration to follow your dreams. “This is a great opportunity for those countries like mine that don’t necessarily have a representation of wine in India”, says H.E. Melba Pria, Ambassador of Mexico, thanking FINE. Expectations run high as the mic (and floor) is handed over to her. And she doesn’t disappoint. Wandering in the dining room to greet everyone, she compares the Tempranillobased Adobe Guadalupe Jardin Secreto 2016 to herself – a little wild! The wine from the Valle de Guadalupe packs the zest, body and joy that is so characteristic of Mexico and evokes a connect to the many secrets that the beautiful mystical breezy gardens hold. Did we keep the best for last? The Ambassador of Hungary, H.E. Gyula Pethő, definitely 24 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA As our guests choose between tea, coffee or yet another glass of their favourite wine of the evening, some marvel at our new environmentally friendly initiative – Glass2Sand – based on an innovative technology from New Zealand that crushes the empty bottles into sand to create a zero waste eco-system. At the Cinderella hour, Rajiv and I draw this evening of several celebrations to a FINE end and extend our gratitude to all who had made this evening so so special – year after year.

FINE Winter 2019 The Fine Ambassadors and High Commissioners Rajiv Singhal (Champagne) & Ritu Singhal (Fine) Hungary Gyula Pethő & Annamari Somogyi Canada Nadir Patel & Jennifer Graham FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 25

26 Japan Kenji & Patricia Hiramatsu New Zealand Joanna Kempkers & Tim Markwell UK Sir Dominic & Lady Louise Asquith Mexico Melba Pria FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019 Luxembourg Jean-Claude Kugener & Pascale Kugener Barbier Saint Hilaire Australia Harinder Sidhu USA Marykay L. Carlson Portugal Sofia Batalha FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 27

28 Greece Panos Kalogeropoulos Taj Hotels Rohit & Maya Khosla Taiwan Tien Chung-Kwang & Jeannie Tien Czech Republic Milan Hovorka & Jarmila Hovorkova FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019 Canada Soyoung Park USA Jeanne F. Bailey Portugal Luisa Lino Spain Ignacio Vitórica Hamilton Australia Dr Mark Morley Taj Arun Sundararaj Taj Bhavna Mehta FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 29

Fine India Eighth Anniversary Gusbourne Pinot Noir 2016 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Kent, UK. Pinot Noir. Pale ruby. First aromas of classic strawberry and red fruits and delicate earthy notes. Palate: Layers of mixed red berries and tropical fruit. Some smokey notes. Soft acidity. Supple tannins. Vibrant. Finish: Definitive. Dry. Spicy. Inside Information: In 1410, the will for the estates of John de Gosborne’s estate in Appledore, Kent was filed. The name “Goosbourne” carried through inheritors as did the three geese crest seen on the local church and all bottlings at “Gusbourne”. In 2004, the founders ventured to make English sparkling wine. This is the only red still wine made – the fruit is from the 777-828 Burgundian clone plantings in the Boot Hill vineyard (which some centuries ago, would’ve been on the edge of the Channel, before it changed course and receded almost 6 miles to leave behind ancient escarpments of clay and sandy loam). In a nutshell: A Burgundian in Kent. Chateau de Schengen Riesling 2016 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Schengen, Luxembourg. Riesling. Pale yellow-green. Citrusy, floral, minerally and some spice. Palate: Lime, apricot and honey with hints of salinity. Strong acidity. Finish: Medium length, very smooth. Inside Information: The Chateau is located in the picturesque village of Schengen, known better for the eponymous visas, and the best terroirs in the region. The wine is produced by Domaine Thill which is managed by Caves Bernard Massard since 1986. One of the larger domains in Luxembourg Moselle, the owning Classen family aims to keeps the authentic character of the terroirs. The original label is a drawing of the 14th century Chateau de Schengen by the famous French poet, novelist and artist Victor Hugo who stayed there in the 19th century. In a nutshell: As sought after as the visas. 30 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Chateau Ste Michelle Syrah 2014 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Palate: Columbia Valley, USA. Syrah and a drop of Viognier. Brick red. Pepper and blackberries. Jammy. Brimming with red and dark berry flavours. Finish: Notably fruit forward. Inside Information: Built on the 1912 estate owned by Seattle lumber baron Frederick Stimson, the winery dates back to the Repeal of Prohibition in 1919. Chateau Ste. Michelle celebrates decades of winemaking based on the combination of Old World traditions with New World innovation. All owned vines are planted on their own original vitis vinifera rootstocks, which are resistant to the dreaded phylloxera. The syrah fruit is sourced from vineyards in the Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills and Yakima Valley. Winemaking is differentiated by colour – the whites are made at the Chateau in Woodinville, while the reds are made at the Canoe Ridge Estate winery. In a nutshell: Easy on the go. Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Marlborough, New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc. Pale green straw. Ripe stone fruits with lemon zest laced with nuances of fresh rose. Palate: Packed with tropical fruits – nectarine, peach, mango, mandarin – and crunchy acidity. Finish: Dry, long, lime, stony. Inside Information: It is believed that the Sauvignon Blanc grape has found its home in Marlborough, New Zealand – the origin of some of the finest wines – and contributes to almost 85% of the country’s wine export. Kevin Judd is best known as the founding winemaker of Cloudy Bay, which he propelled to global recognition and created a whole new style of New Zealand wines which caught the fancy of wine-lovers around the world. In 1993, Judd created his own label, Greywacke. Besides, Judd is a renowned photographer and his frames have graced the FINE magazine. In a nutshell: An artists’ expression.

De Bortoli Woodfired Shiraz 2017 Region: Heathcote, Victoria, Australia. Varietal: Shiraz Appearance: Dark red with hints of purple on the rim. Nose: Plums, currants, dark fruits, spicy notes of fennel. Palate: Dense, bold and generous. Flavours of dates, blackberries and vanilla. Grippy tannins. Finish: Balance of spice and fruit. Inside Information: A love-struck couple, Vittorio and Giuseppina De Bortoli, fled war-torn Italy to settle in the flat plains of Griffith. In 1928, Vittorio bought mixed fruit farms and crushed grapes that he got for free in the shiraz glut that prevailed. The dry table wine he made was welcomed by the native Italians – De Bortoli wine was born with the motto “Semper ad Majora” (always striving for better). And with it a powerful Australian winemaking dynasty who consider good wine, good food and good friends to be among the true pleasures in life. In a nutshell: Authentic Heathcote terroir, bottled. FINE Winter 2019 Tasting Notes Piper Heidsieck Essentiel Region: Champagne, France. Varietal: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Appearance: Lustrous Golden Nose: Pure. Well-defined citrus aromas of fresh green apples and a hint of toasted almonds. Palate: Crackling fine bubbles. Crisp white fruits – grapes, apples… Notes of sweet fruitcake. Intensely nutty. Finish: Very lively, refreshing and long. Inside Information: Founded in 1785 by Florens-Louis Heidsieck, Piper Heidsieck was an early player in champagne. The new site outside Reims is testimony to modern champagne making by the team of much awarded chef de caves, while the ancient crayeres were, thankfully, saved from destruction. In partnership, Christian Louboutin created the famous red-soled shoe shaped crystal stilettos to revive the ancient ritual of drinking champagne from a ladies’ shoe. This cuvee symbolizes the essence of the house – hence the name. Aged for four years, it is extra dry with a dosage of only 6 g/l, and has an unfussy charm. In a nutshell: Shameless flirting. Monte da Ravasqueira Touriga Franca 2013 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Alentejo, Portugal. Touriga Franca Dark opaque red. Dense. Exuberant dark fruit. Oaky aromas yield spicy clove notes as the wine opens up in the glass. Palate: Sweet ripe cherry and black olives. Very bold, well-rounded with a touch of minerality and spice. Finish: High intensity, long lasting. Inside Information: Owned by Grupo De Mello, one of Portugal’s biggest corporate groups, the wine foray began in 1998 when the first vines were planted – the first wine was released in 2003. A couple of years ago, the brand re-positioned itself to realise the commercial vision to become a household name in the production and consumption of Portuguese wines. Monte da Ravasqueira is one of the two main ranges of wine produced. From the rather fashionable Alentejo, which is a large wine region in Portugal, Touriga Franca is an important locally grown cultivar in Portugal that has been used in Port wine blends extensively. In a nutshell: An indigenous mono-varietal. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 31

Suntory Japan Premium Merlot 2013 Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton 2013 Region: Macedonia, Greece. Varietal: Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano. Appearance: Deep red colour. Nose: Enchanting bouquet of raspberries and raisins with hints of coffee. Palate: Gentle tannins complement the ripe dark fruits. Full bodied. Finish: Dry and tangy. Inside Information: The geographic indication “Epanomi” wine is from the region of Macedonia and a blend of three indigenous native Greek grape varietals – Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano. Limnio from Limnos Island is the oldest attested Greek grape variety mentioned by comic dramatist Aristophanes in the 5th century BC. Mavroudi is grown in the Gulf of Saronici area in the Peloponnese region and Mavrotragano is from Santorini Island. Avaton is an ancient Greek word that means a place that is unapproachable, endurable and sacred. The unique blend of this wine inspired the producer to give the name Avaton. In a nutshell: Oak aged fruit forward wine. Laughing Stock Vineyards Syrah 2012 Region: Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. Varietal: Syrah and a bit of Viognier. Appearance: Deep red garnet Nose: Very complex. Dark cherries, blackberries, cedar, cocoa with hints of dust and violets. Palate: Dry. Masculine. Chewy. Berries, olives, chocolate and pepper. Structured tannins. Finish: Full. Warm. Inside Information: The name “Laughing Stock” reflects the decision of the David and Cynthia Enn to quit high-earning comfortable financial sector jobs and to put all earnings in this risky wine project. Their pinstripe peers thought they were completely foolish, silly and stupid – the founders were ridiculed. With this name, the Enn’s are motivated to not live upto their name and create much demanded and much awarded wines – which they do. What’s special about this wine is that it is very limited quantity – only 642 cases were made in 2012 which was a great vintage. In a nutshell: To make a million in wine… 32 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Yamanashi-ken, Japan. Merlot. Deep red. Gentle and soft. Distinct aromas of dark fruits, black cherry and plum. Palate: Smooth and mellow. Well balanced and well-structured from the oak aging. Fruit triumphs the tannins. Finish: Long after taste. Light and breezy. Inside Information: The global giant, Suntory, is better known for the iconic whiskies in its portfolio. In the wine space, they import fine wine to Japan and make some very fine wine in challenging conditions. Japan is hot and humid with torrential rains and this doesn’t make it the most hospitable for wine production. But the winemakers have trained with the best in Europe and have adopted new traditions to overcome the adversities. The Merlot vineyards are 700 metres above sea level, much higher altitude than Bordeaux where the highest planting would be 100 metres above sea level – the outcome is very different, but much liked. In a nutshell: The gentle Japanese touch. Adobe Guadalupe Jardin Secreto 2016 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose: Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico. Tempranillo, Grenache. Bright ruby red. Very expressive. Blackberries and vanilla with smokey and spicy hints. Palate: Full bodied. Fruity with traces of elderberry and raspberries. Elegant tannins and balanced acidity. Finish: Not so long. Pleasing. Inside Information: In 1998, retired banker, Donald Miller and his wife Tru, planted vines and founded the Adobe Guadalupe company in memory of their son Arlo, who died in a tragic car accident. The Guadalupe Valley was chosen for its south-west France like conditions. Winemaker, Daniel Lonnberg, uses the 60 acres of vineyards and many varietals to create several unique assemblies of which Jardin Secreto is one. The label Archangels embodies aspects of Mexican culture that had fascinated Arlo throughout his life and are favourites across Mexico for their very high quality oldworld-style wines. In a nutshell: Secret pleasures.

Beronia Crianza 2013 Region: Rioja, Spain. Varietal: Tempranillo, Grenache, Garciona, Mazuelo. Appearance: Bright cherry red. Nose: Fresh herbaceous aromas of thyme with blackberry and cherry. Develops into orange and cinnamon with a hint of cedar. Palate: Delicious. Cherries and blackberries. Milk chocolate and vanilla from the American oak. Some leathery notes. Finish: Full bodied. Smooth. Long. Inside Information: Bodegas Beronia is named after the Berones, a Celtic tribe who inhabited La Rioja in the 3rd century BC. The winery was founded in 1973 by Basque businessmen whose great love for food and wine drew them to make their own. Today, wine maker Matias Calleja produces wines in Ollauri – the heart of Rioja Alta – from a large holding of 900 hectares of vineyards that surround the winery. Of these, 50 hectares are pre-phylloxera vineyards that are more than 100 years old. Totally committed to protecting the environment, Beronia uses sustainable farming techniques and the most environmentally friendly techniques in winemaking. In a nutshell: Complex Rioja with character. Region: Tokaj, Hungary. Varietal: Tokaji blend of Furmint and Kövérszőlő. Appearance: Golden Yellow. Nose: Layered maturity. Chamomile, quince and white fruit with some vanilla. Palate: Brilliant. Rich and velvety texture – very clean. Peach and vanilla dominate with a hint of morels. High sugar levels delicately balance the acidity. Finish: Terrific precision that almost lingers to the next day. Residual Sugar: 220 grams/litre. Inside Information: Owner and winemaker Sarolta Bárdos dreamt of building a small artisan winery producing sophisticated wines of great character. Vineyards of 6 hectares were bought in Tokaji Nobilis in 2000 that were too “slopey” for the Russian tractors and replanted with specifically chosen clones at high density. Traditional vaulted cellars were built into a 200 year-old house in the village. She still does many tasks by hand to avoid any extraction during pumping and harvests only gold grapes – very ripe with higher alcohols. And wouldn’t make an Aszú unless the berries are of the right quality – 2004, 2005 and 2009 were missed. In a nutshell: High degree of human intervention. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Winter 2019 Tokaj Nobilis Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2008 33

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FINE Summer 2012 Les Arts de l’effervescence Champagne!! Champagne Text: Amanda Regan Photos: Musée des Beaux Arts de Reims As Champagne bottles are opened all over the world, 370 works of art depicting champagne have been assembled from 85 international private and public lenders at an exhibition about Champagne, in Champagne. This premier exhibition at the Musée des Beaux-arts de Reims discovers the intimate relationship of the arts with Champagne, which has been an ode to limitless joy and has been the symbol of celebration, luxury and publicity. The positive energy and ‘joie de vivre’ of the Champagne region lie behind the works of great artists. Famous names such as Picasso, Toulouse Lautrec and Alfred Hitchcock present the history of Champagne imaginatively, from the first bubbles in the 17th century to today. They have shared their passion for Champagne and conveyed dreams, the surreal, happiness and rebirth, which transcend the chaos of human history through the range of artistic disciplines and periods: painting, decorative arts, design, architecture, cinema, advertising and publicity, literature, music, glass and accessories. A tour in four parts through the history and styles exposes changes in fashion regarding how to serve, drink and enjoy Champagne. Art de vivre, cultural myths and legends show how Champagne developed in the arts through promotional appropriation, via the surreal, abstract and contemporary movements. The exhibition Les Arts de l’effervescence – Champagne! at Musée des Beaux Arts de Reims, 14 December 2012 – 16 May 2013 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 35

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FINE Summer 2012 Parcours 1 Champagne and Aristocracy: From Reality to Myth Prestigious Champagne clients developed as aristocratic nobility married into Champagne families – from the Regent period all the way through to the era of Marie Antoinette at the end of the 17th century. Champagne became rare and expensive – a symbol of an aristocratic life reserved for the elite. In the 1730s, it was portrayed as a luxury in “The Oyster Lunch” painting commissioned by Louis XV and carried out by Jean-François de Troy for a private dining room in the Château of Versailles, as well as in a Nicolas Lancret’s painting for the Château of Versailles. Furthermore, crystal glassware, designed for the sole purpose of drinking Champagne, and the architecture on the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay and La Butte Saint Niçaise in Reims all reflected aristocracy. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 37

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FINE Summer 2012 Parcours 2 Ivresse La Fête Champagne was the 19th century symbol of pleasure and celebration, effervescence and decadence. The exhibition identifies the second Empire with images of entertainment, frivoloity, vanity and seduction, depicting festive and fashionable restaurants, cafés, concerts and cabarets in Paris. In the party atmosphere, Champagne was being consumed by women, who embodied it. Artists and writers found new inspiration in the fizz of Champagne. “Les Dixeuses” cabaret singers became the models for Mucha posters, creating advertising and publicity for Champagne. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 39

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FINE Summer 2012 Parcours 3 Art Nouveau and Art Deco Modernity arrived at the end of the nineteenth century. Commercial and industrial production of Champagne was shown in spectacular fashion at the World Fairs in 1889, 1900, 1925 and 1937. Champagne houses sought graphic brand images through artists like Toulouse Lautrec, Pierre Bonnard and Mucha, and embraced the curves of Art Nouveau as an aesthetic match with bubbles. In 1890 Henri Vasnier, Director Champagne of Pommery, commissioned Emile Galle to create a dining room in Reims with poetic symbols of grapevines. Champagne Mercier made the first cinematic publicity in 1895 with the Lumiere brothers’ Vie d’une bouteille de Champagne depuis la grape jusqu’a la coupe (The Life of a Champagne Bottle from Grapes to Glass). Champagne stars in Charlie Chaplin’s A Night Out film of 1915, and Alfred Hitchcock’s first film in 1928 was called Champagne.The energy of bubbles were captured by photography and painted by Severini in1911 during the Italian Futurist movement. From 1914–1920 access to Champagne was democratised through reproductions. Until then, interest was only in the display of bubbles depicted in 18th and 19th century paintings, and not in a brand. After 1918, Reims was restored during the Art Deco era with symbolic designs in the Cathedrals and the Town Hall. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 41

Parcours 4 Avant Garde 20th Century Champagne Destabilized by wars and chaos in the 20th Century, art became a metaphor of resurrection for artists - a magical elixir that was aimed at conserving the “pathway to life”. In the 1920s, Champagne was synonymous with luxury, celebration and decadence. Picasso made a series of prints in 1933 depicting Bacchus and Minotaures drinking Champagne. From 1945, Surrealist and Abstract artists incarnated Champagne as a symbol of peace, rebirth and optimism. In Jean Lurçat’s Apocalypse series, Champagne symbolised rebirth. Turning to humour for the millennium, Marteen Baas deconstructs the heritage of Champagne with a table setting of melting Murano glass and bottles reminiscent of Dali. 42 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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FINE Winter 2013 A Winner Text: Juha Lihtonen It is 1857. A severe storm batters a fleet of cargo ships on their way from France to New York. On board one ship huge waves crash over the deck with a force that shakes the whole vessel. 35-year-old CharlesCamille Heidsieck monitors the situation on deck with alarm.­ He has every reason to be concerned, as within the fleet’s cargo lie three hundred thousand bottles of Charles Heidsieck champagne. The loss of this, the largest ever shipment of champagne to the United States, would mean inevitable bankruptcy for CharlesCamille Heidsieck’s six-year-old family business. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 45

T wo days later the ship arrives in port at New York where it is met by crowds eager to greet the renowned champagne hero and his unprecedented cargo. Charles-Camille Heidsieck, who five years earlier captivated the people of New York with his charm and his champagne, has finally returned, and this time with a boatload of his heavenly elixir. The newspapers sing the praises of the man and his return under the headline “Charlie is back again” and the nickname “Champagne Charlie” is born. Over the following five years he successfully lives the American Dream until fate takes a hand, dealing him a blow from which it would seems impossible to recover. The newspapers sing the praises of the man and his return under the headline “Charlie is back again” and the nickname “Champagne Charlie” is born. YOUNG BUSINESSMAN The story of Champagne Charlie started in 1846 when Charles-Camille Heidsieck returned home to Reims after studying commerce at the University of Lübeck. The 24-year-old enthusiastically threw himself into champagne manufacturing, learnt about the different champagne styles and soon spotted opportunities to develop and improve the quality of champagne. In 1851, with his brother-in-law Ernest Henriot, Charles-Camille founded the champagne house that bears his name. As well as making champagne, he also dedicated himself to marketing his champagnes and seeking out new customers. Unlike other champagne producers, he explored the potential offered by the New World. New markets were found across the pond in the United States, where little, if anything, was known about champagne at the time. To ensure his position as a forerunner in the US market, Charles-Camille travelled to Boston the very next year, from there continuing his US marketing tour inland as far as Niagara Falls. His final stop was New York, where his reputation had preceded him. The popularity of his delectable beverages also attracted the attention of a local wine agent, and before returning home Charles-Camille entered into an agreement under which the 46 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2013 agent would distribute his champagnes in the United States. Sales got off to a flying start and Charles Heidsieck’s effervescent drinks gained growing popularity in America. WEAPONS IN THE MARKETING GAME While in the United States, Charlie observed the American penchant for guns and decided on his next visit to take with him not only champagne, but the latest handguns and hunting guns from Paris. The ploy guaranteed press attention and saw him hailed as a great shot and a weapons expert, as well as a champagne specialist. He became a familiar face on the New York social scene and, when walking the streets of New York, was dogged by pressmen and photographers reporting his every move. Champagne Charlie soon left New York society behind and spent the next nine months travelling the US, as far afield as Ohio, Texas, Missouri and Mississippi, marketing his wine. In the space of ten years, Charles Heidsieck had managed to create significant markets for his champagne in the United States while other champagne producers were focused on Europe and Russia. Concentrating on a single market also has its risks, however, and this was a strategy which was almost to cost him his life. DIRE STRAITS In spring 1861, while in France, Charles-Camille became aware of unrest breaking out in the United States. Soon the country was in the midst of a bloody civil war. This was a worrying situation for the Charles Heidsieck firm as the company’s assets were tied up in thousands of champagne shipments in the US which had not yet been paid for. Charles-Camille rushed to New York to see his agent. On arrival he found that a law had been passed absolving purchasers from all their bills to the South. Citing the new law, the agent refused to pay for the champagne ordered. Champagne Charlie’s appeals to the agent’s honour were to no avail and he was in a desperate predicament. Without the payment for the champagne, the company was on the verge of bankruptcy. Charlie, however, knew that shipments of his champagne had been sent to New Orleans and he headed south to collect the payments directly from the purchasers. The journey through the battle lines was a perilous one. After many detours and much danger, Charlie arrived in New Orleans, where he found that no-one could afford to pay for the champagne. Dejected, he agreed to exchange his champagne for cotton. After all, cotton was highly valuable in Europe. However, he ran into problems trying to get the cotton out of the United States. Due to the war, the harbours He became a familiar face on the New York social scene and, when walking the streets of New York, was dogged by pressmen and photographers reporting his every move. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 47

and sea routes were blocked. One exception was the port of Mobile in Mississippi, where ships were dodging the blockade. Charlie hired two vessels to carry the cotton, telling the captains to take different routes to make sure that at least one of the shipments reached its destination. His caution was justified, as only a few days after the ships set off, Charlie heard that one of the vessels had been wrecked. DEADLY PAPERS Word that troops from the North were fast approaching Mobile saw Charlie sign up as a barman on a ship leaving Mobile for New Orleans. He promised to take with him documents from the French embassy to the French consulate in New Orleans. Four days later the ship arrived at its destination. It was too late, as the city was now occupied by Union forces. Troops led by General Benjamin Butler took the vessel’s occupants prisoner, with Charlie among them. The documents from the French consulate were found on his person, revealing that French textile manufacturers were supporting the Confederates in the South by providing them with weapons. Champagne Charlie was accused of espionage and, despite his protestations, was flung into the notorious Fort Jackson prison in Louisiana. The Heidsieck case created a diplomatic incident between France and the United States, in which negotiators included Napoleon III, a great friend of Charles Heidsieck’s champagnes. He ordered Abraham Lincoln to overturn the decision to imprison Charlie. In the meantime, Charlie, incarcerated in a muddy cell in the midst of the swamps, had incurred the wrath of General Butler, who was in charge of the prison. Butler cancelled Charlie’s visiting permits. He hoped to hang the Frenchman and said that not even an appeal from Napoleon III would save him. Finally, the French consul was granted permission to visit, but the message was far from encouraging. Everything that could be done had been done and Charlie should prepare for the worst. The consul also told him that the other ship carrying cotton had been burned. During the hot summer, conditions in the prison only deteriorated. Yellow fever was rife in the dampness and the heat, and the prisoners were dropping like flies – Heidsieck’s cellmate included. Hungry crocodiles attempting to get in through the cell’s open windows during the Mississippi floods constituted a further hazard. After three months, starving Charlie was battling for his life. Finally, after six months in prison, the skeletal Heidsieck heard that Abraham Lincoln had granted him a pardon. His return home to France had to wait, however, as his health was so poor that it was months before he had recovered sufficiently to withstand the long sea voyage. ROCK BOTTOM On returning home in spring 1863 a bleak prospect awaited him. Other than the company’s bankrupt estate, his wife had had to sell most of the family’s property to survive. Charlie was now 41 years old and facing a huge dilemma. What next? Start again from scratch? And if so, with what? 48 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2013 The answer appeared as if out of the blue, when one night there was a knock at the door. There stood a messenger, holding in his hand a letter addressed to Charlie. The letter was from a missionary from the United States who had arrived in Champagne and was staying with relatives in a neighbouring village. The letter said that the missionary had an important matter to discuss with Charlie and wanted to see him immediately. That very night Charlie met the man, who gave him a bunch of papers and a map and said they were Charlie’s property. The papers were from the brother of Charlie’s former US agent. The writer said he felt greatly ashamed of his brother’s behaviour in failing to pay his champagne debts. He hoped to recompense Heidsieck for his suffering in the form of land – the deeds to which he hereby granted to Charlie. Examining the map and the areas of land assigned to him, Charlie saw that he owned a third of the city of Denver. With the proceeds from selling plots of land in the city, by then the largest and richest in the west of the US, the Heidsieck family were not only able to safeguard their future but also to restore the fortunes of the once successful Charles Heidsieck champagne house. CONTINUED SUCCESS And so the people of New York were soon once Champagne Charlie was accused of more able to raise glasses of Charles Heidsieck’s espionage and, despite his protestations, champagne and celebrate the survival of popular Champagne Charlie. Although the US market was flung into the notorious Fort was still important to Heidsieck, Charlie also Jackson prison in Louisiana. looked elsewhere; in 1864 he travelled to Russia to convert Tsar Alexander III to his champagnes. Charlie did not market his wines, however. With their incomparable quality, they marketed themselves. Demand spread from the Russian court to other royal houses of Europe and Charles Heidsieck’s champagnes became the favourite of European royalty. On his death in 1893 at the age of 71 Champagne Charlie left the company, by now producing almost a million bottles a year, in the hands of his two sons. The company continued in family ownership under Henriot until it was bought by international giant Rémy-Cointreau in 1985. This year the company changed into the French EPI’s ownership. Under the new ownership the quality and marketing of Charles Heidsieck’s champagne continues in line with Champagne Charlie’s motto: “champagne speaks for itself ”. And so it does, as first prize in countless wine contests, organised by top wine professionals and the international press, go to show. > References: Champagne – Don & Petie Kladstrup (2005) Memories for Tomorrow – Charles Heidsieck (2007) FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 49

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FINE Spring 2021 Champagne’s fight against climate change intensifies D oes global warming spell certain doom for the region that has built a wine style around its cold climate? Things have hotted up in Champagne since I unravelled the climatic drama that has played out over the past 30 years in The Champagne Guide 2014–2015. The region has responded in force, and it’s time for a sequel. The summer heatwave of 2019 burnt grapes on the vines. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 53

‘How can we manage and anticipate these spectacularly chaotic climatic events?’ Charles Heidsieck chef de cave Cyril Brun commented to me in dismay mid-way through the harrowing 2017 harvest. In a region that has devoted centuries to refining its viticulture and winemaking to build ripeness and generosity – not to mention a wine style conceived in answer to cold seasons – there is much that is being done. The Champenois have rallied and launched a concerted response that encompasses everything from where, how and which grapes are grown, to the methods of vinification and even the fundamental style of the wine itself. Pick earlier ‘We started harvest in August in 2003, 2007, 2011, 2015, 2017 and 2018,’ observes Ruinart chef de cave Frédéric Panaïotis. ‘There were only two August harvests in the last century and already six this century, so if this isn’t a sign of global warming, what is?!’ In the past 30 years, Champagne harvest dates have moved forward by a fortnight. ‘When I arrived in Champagne 25 years ago, the harvest was at the end of September, and now it is mid-September, and one year in three it is at the end of August,’ observes Veuve Clicquot chef de cave Dominique Demarville. “ “ The weather in Champagne has become dramatically more extreme and unpredictable over the past three decades, and this is a bigger concern for the region’s vineyards than an increase in temperature of close to 1.2 degrees Celsius. The 2016 season brought catastrophic frost, hail and rain, inflicting the most widespread devastation in history, only to be outdone by the toughest season in living memory the very next year, decimated by the worst rot Champagne has ever seen. There was rejoicing in the streets when 2018 brought record yields of clean fruit of unprecedented ripeness, but enthusiasm waned when vins clairs lacked acidity and endurance. Just weeks before harvest, an all-time record late-July heatwave of 42 degrees Celsius shrivelled the 2019 grapes to raisins. ...we must change how we cultivate the vineyards Accelerated ripening during August has introduced a new challenge in determining the optimum date of harvest. ‘This is the new issue, waiting for flavour and phenolic ma- Glistening frost blankets the grand cru of Aÿ during a frozen sunrise in the depth of winter 2019 54 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Spring 2021 A spider basks in the final rays of sunset in Rizaucourt-Buchey in the Haute-Marne department of Champagne Harvest faster Harvesting during the warmer weeks of August means that ripeness is moving faster, as is the risk of the onset of rot. Péters picked his entire 2017 crop in one week rather than two. ‘It’s not just enough to decide when you want to harvest, you need to have the resources to do it!’ points out Charles Heidsieck chef de cave Cyril Brun. In the village of Vertus, brothers CharlesHenry and Emmanuel Fourny invested in a second press in 2018 to keep up with the new pace of harvest. Send in the robots A faster response calls for both infrastructure and a workforce, and Champagne is facing a new crisis of manual labour. ‘The challenge for us is to find the workers in the vineyard, because the young generation would rather work in an office,’ says Demarville. This is exacerbated in August, when most of Europe would prefer to be sunning itself on a faraway beach. ‘I think we will have robots harvesting sooner than expected, because it’s too hard to get pickers today,’ predicts Sophie Déthune at Paul Déthune in Ambonnay. ‘It’s hard to imagine that 20 years ago we had to get an answering machine for the phone because everyone was calling us offering to pick! Now we don’t get a single call.’ Demarville believes robots will be very important for the future of Champagne. ‘We introduced robots in the wineries and the cellars 20 years ago, and now the next step is to use them in the vineyards,’ he suggests. Numerous robot trials are currently underway in the region, but not everyone is convinced. ‘I fight against the robots, because the more you go in that direction, the more you lose contact,’ says Louis Roederer chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. ‘The story of wine is about going into my terroir, not with satellites and robots, but staying in touch with the soils and the vines and the wines.’ “ ...we will need more chardonnay, less meunier, and pinot noir with more freshness “ turity while the sugar level continues to rise,’ reveals Rodolphe Péters, who took a risk against rising rot by holding off harvesting his Pierre Péters chardonnay in Le Mesnilsur-Oger until it achieved flavour ripeness at a high sugar level of 11.5 degrees potential in 2017. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 55

Harvest 2014 on the slopes of the premier cru of Mutigny in the hills behind the grand cru of Aÿ With increasingly warm and early harvests, it’s not uncommon for afternoon temperatures to reach 30–35 degrees Celsius. Warm grapes oxidise much faster than cold grapes, so Demarville is negotiating with his vineyard teams to pick during the cooler hours of the day, by contrast to the traditional French work day. ‘We can have people picking from 5am to 1pm,’ he suggests. ‘And we must learn how to pick at night.’ Some have attempted night picking with head-mounted mining lamps, but this has proven challenging and increases the cost of the grapes. Robots may be the answer. Chill the grapes In 2019, Billecart-Salmon was the first in Champagne to build a cold room to chill the grapes, with capacity to chill 40–45 tonnes to 5 degrees Celsius overnight. The afternoon’s harvest is ready for cold pressing at 5am the following morning. ‘Instead of chilling the musts, we chill the grapes!’ exclaims Antoine Roland-Billecart. ‘We have done trials, and overnight chilling makes a big difference in acid retention in the grapes.’ Others in the region are contemplating the same, from growers as small as Veuve Fourny to houses as large as Dom Pérignon itself. 56 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA ‘We can’t chill prior to pressing like they do elsewhere, because we have such a huge volume harvested in such a short time,’ suggests Dom Pérignon chef de cave Vincent Chaperon. ‘And it is also a question of energy.’ More precise viticulture ‘To keep sufficient acidity and freshness, we must change how we cultivate the vineyards and ensure the roots go deeper and deeper,’ Demarville emphasises. This necessitates a much more eco-friendly approach in the vines. The extremes of recent seasons have prompted an imperative for sustainable viticulture across Champagne like never before (see The Champagne Guide 2020-2021 pages 62–65). Péters suggests that even Champagne’s low, closely spaced vineyard rows might need to be reconsidered. ‘It’s very hard to grow low vines close together without fungicides and herbicides,’ he points out. ‘We will have to change our method of cultivation and find ways to enlarge the rows and train higher canopies.’ Brun suggests a detailed, individualised approach to each vineyard site. ‘I feel we are going to enter into an era of viticultural precision,’ he says, ‘by treating groups of plots in particular ways and working more “ The 2016 season brought catastrophic frost, hail and rain... “ Pick at night

chef de cave Gilles Descôtes. ‘We don’t need them now, but we might in 20 years!’ Plant new varieties The Comité Champagne has a project underway to create hybrid varieties that will mature slower, hold their acidity longer and exhibit greater resistance to disease in warmer seasons. Such extreme measures are more than controversial. ‘I’m not sure they are true to the champagne tradition,’ suggests Charles Philipponnat, president of Philipponnat. ‘Personally I think we should maintain the best of what we have.’ Champagne’s warming climate has spurred a renewed interest in the region’s ‘old’ varieties of pinot gris, pinot blanc and, most of all, petit meslier and arbane. In the very warm 2018 vintage, Bollinger harvested petit meslier and arbane at a full ripeness of 12.5 degrees potential and fantastic acidity of 7g/L. ‘The old varieties are interesting for us in the wake of global warming,’ says FINE Spring 2021 “ A warmer climate threatens to challenge even the fundamentals... precisely. Different sites, different clones and different varieties respond differently.’ Lécaillon agrees. ‘It is completely crazy to suggest we should change the varieties in champagne!’ he exclaims. ‘I make sparkling wine from chardonnay and pinot in California, and I have done so in Tasmania, and you can adapt the way you grow and make wines to suit the climate. I think the biggest mistake we could make is to change the varieties – we would lose all that we have built in history. We don’t have pinot, chardonnay and meunier here because someone decided it would be good, but because these varieties are suited to the soils and suited to the place.’ “ Create new clones A more sensible response is to play with clones rather than varieties. Lécaillon shares a nursery with other like-minded estates, including Pierre Péters, to cultivate a wide selection of clones. ‘Some clones are better suited to warm weather than others,’ points out Rodolphe Péters, who evolves his clonal selection according to changes in climate, pressure of disease and even evolving popular tastes. Meanwhile, the freshening influence of chardonnay has never been in higher demand in champagne blends, and many are replanting meunier and pinot noir to chardonnay. ‘In the future, we will need more chardonnay, less meunier, and pinot noir with more freshness,’ says Brun. Plant new areas Harvest 2019, premier cru of Chigny-les-Roses, northern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The push to expand the Champagne appellation has been on hold for a decade, ever since the global financial crisis put a dampener on sales growth, but the opportunity for the region to reconsider sites better suited to warmer temperatures is compelling. ‘Maybe there are some current lands that are no longer suitable?’ postulates Brun. ‘And maybe there are some areas that we need to plant? We are moving further north.’ FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 57

Harvest 2019 at Fleury in the Côte des Bar. Of all the strategies to counter warmer seasons in the winery, blocking malolactic fermentation is the one that many houses and growers are increasingly trialling. ‘To maintain energy, balance and finesse, if we need to increase the malic acidity we will,’ reveals Alice Paillard of Bruno Paillard. ‘Everything needs to change for everything to stay the same!’ Many houses who have traditionally always carried out malolactic fermentation are blocking it in more and more parcels. ‘With malolactic and with oak, it does not have to be everything or nothing, it could be in between,’ suggests Brun. ‘We need to be globally more flexible in everything we do, to be able to do a lot of work in a short time, and 58 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA to deal quickly with emergencies. We have to be quite pragmatic and ready to learn from our mistakes. The Champenois can be perceived to be quite arrogant. But we need to keep our feet on the ground and to redefine what is champagne.’ Use fresher reserves For the little house of AR Lenoble in Damery, climate change has fundamentally turned the role of reserve wines on its head. ‘In the past, reserves were about adding complexity and depth to a blend,’ says head of the house, Antoine Malassagne, ‘but after four of the earliest harvests in history this century, acidity levels are much lower than they used to be, and we are now talking about how we can use reserves to enhance freshness.’ “ “ Block malolactic ...we must change how we cultivate the vineyards

A warmer climate threatens to challenge even the fundamentals of what defines the champagne style and its ageing potential. ‘We are probably at the end of a cycle where we had only to rely on the acidities for longevity,’ Brun suggested disconcertingly as we tasted his 2018 vins clairs, with but half the malic acidity of a normal year. Chaperon has been contemplating this since 2003, the vintage that recorded the lowest acidity on record. ‘Freshness, vibrancy and tension are more important to Dom Pérignon than acidity,’ he discloses. ‘And we have more levers to achieve this than acidity – we have minerality, phenolics, bitterness and aromatics. In particularly ripe seasons like 2009, we have to play with other dimensions like phenolics to maintain freshness.’ Release vintages earlier Many houses made the astute decision to release the fast-maturing 2009 vintage before the enduring 2008, and such dexterity This is exacerbated by the recent decline in sales of vintage champagne, now the surprise poorest-performing category of all. ‘We have a problem in Champagne, a big problem,’ declares Duval-Leroy chef de cave Sandrine Logette-Jardin. ‘Because of climate change, we have the ability to make more and more vintage cuvées, but we don’t have the ability to sell all of them.’ In response, Duval-Leroy has made the bold and unexpected decision to market its vintage cuvées and prestige Femme de Champagne as non-vintage in all but the very finest vintages. Pierre Péters has done the same with its Millésime L’Esprit and Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV. “ FINE Spring 2021 Play with phenolics is increasingly important as Champagne’s vintage extremes become ever more pronounced. “ Such progressive change of thinking applies not only to the small players. ‘For me, the new challenge in Champagne is selecting the reserves,’ reveals Moët & Chandon chef de cave, Benoît Gouez. Not to be a prisoner to our own rules... Declining sales push vintage releases out – a great virtue for enduring seasons blessed by extended lees age, but a pitfall for vintages without the stamina to go the distance. ‘Most Champenois think the 2018 vintage will perform well, but I don’t expect it will age at all well, and if they release it in order, it will be too late,’ Brun warns. ‘But it would be daring to release 2018 before 2014!’ Harvest 2014 on the slopes of the premier cru of Mutigny in the hills behind the grand cru of Aÿ FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 59

Make coteaux champenois Warming to climate change This year I have made two sojourns to Burgundy, the place that provides more context and perspective for the future of Champagne than any other. Not only in warming climates and trends in viticulture, vinification and single-site bottlings, but in the production of chardonnay and pinot noir as still wines. Climate change to date has been a blessing for Champagne. ‘For now, the weather in Champagne is for the better,’ says Francis Egly, Champagne’s finest grower at EglyOuriet in Ambonnay. ‘Twenty or thirty years ago, we sometimes had very difficult years in which it was very hard to achieve good ripeness, but now this is easier.’ Coteaux Champenois still wines have long been an interesting curio, largely constrained to smaller players and little production volumes, but recent warmer vintages have enticed many houses to come out to play. The 2015 and especially 2018 harvests marked a turning point, and I have seen sneak previews of stunning new Coteaux Champenois in development for the first time at Louis Roederer, Veuve Clicquot, Charles Heidsieck and André Clouet. ‘One day it might be for the worst if it goes too far,’ foresees Jean-Hervé Chiquet at Jacquesson, ‘but for now we are eliminating the worst vintages of the past, like 1972, 1977 and 1984.’ ‘Coteaux Champenois is innovating backwards,’ proposes Lécaillon, ‘because whenever they had lunches here in the 1950s they had a glass of champagne, a glass of Coteaux Champenois blanc and a glass of Coteaux Champenois rouge. And in 20 years’ time we might do super white wines or red wines! Champagne’s handicap until now has been ripeness, so we created sparkling wine because we didn’t have the climate to make still wine, and if we no longer have that handicap, then we will do something different. Climate is changing, and it has always changed, and it is the ultimate job of farmers to adapt to the changes. Let’s not complain about it, but embrace it and find the tricks and the wine styles that can make the best possible wines in this place at this time. Before 1850, there was more still wine than sparkling wine produced in Champagne. And maybe history will reinvent itself and we will go back to that? Maybe in years to come we won’t make sparkling wine anymore. That wouldn’t be a problem.’ Such radical suggestions would change the game for Champagne. But don’t fear, the bubbles are here to stay, and Coteaux Champenois will remain in their shadow for at least the foreseeable future, if for no other reason than economic necessity – great Coteaux Champenois demands half the yields of champagne, and the region can’t afford this en masse just yet. 60 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Even on the warmest site in all of Champagne, Charles Philipponnat agrees. ‘It is true that on average grapes are riper, but so far this has been a good thing for Champagne,’ he says. ‘Clos des Goisses is a good case study, because technically it is too warm by Champagne standards, but it hasn’t been a problem yet. I believe the soil and the slope and the regime are more important than the temperature. Our wines today are grown in warmer conditions than 20 years ago and we have gained precision, so what is the problem?’ In spite of the challenges facing Champagne today, the ultimate measure must always come down to the quality of the wine in the bottle. For Champagne’s top houses, who rigorously uphold fanatical attention to the finest detail in their vines and their wines, while maintaining an adaptable dexterity in the wake of the frenzy of changes around them, that quality has never been higher than it is today. ‘It’s time to move further,’ invites Chaperon. ‘To stay true to what champagne is, but to move beyond. Not to be a prisoner to our own rules and our strict appellation, but to change and reinvent. What will be the champagne of 2050? This is the question.’ This article is an excerpt from The Champagne Guide 20202021 by Tyson Stelzer. Available now in hardback and ebook at https://www.tysonstelzer.com/ online-store/.

FINE Spring 2021 The moulin (windmill) of Verzenay stands sentinel over a blanket of snow, veiling grand cru soils in the winter of 2013 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 61

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F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4 SUSHI & CHAMPAGNE The perfect pairing? Te x t : Ju h a L i h t o n e n M any purists about Japanese kitchen think that the only appropriate drinks for sushi are tea, sake and Japanese beer. These traditional Japanese drinks are an undeniable match for sushi, but in the last decades, they have gotten some contenders with the fusion of sushi culture into western gastronomical patterns. Most western sushi lovers enjoy sushi with wine or champagne instead of sake. A growing number of champagne bars are serving sushi and modern sushi bars, in turn, offer champagne with sushi. Is it just a passing trend or is there something in champagnes that makes them even better drinks to sushi than the traditional Japanese options? FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 63

A lthough in terms of cultural heritage, sushi and champagne are as remote as pizza and sake, there are natural grounds for combining them. First of all, both are the results of centuries of evolution and represent unique, pleasure-inducing lifestyle products in western everyday culture today. Champagne offers a break from daily stress and sushi, in turn, gives pleasure as a healthy food low in calories. Champagne and sushi connect also in terms of ingredients that they are combined with. Sushi is most often laced with seafood – roe, shellfish and fish – while in the Western culture, these delicacies are traditionally enjoyed with crispy white wines and champagnes. A third reason that makes champagne and sushi a good match is their mutually supporting qualities in taste. A technically perfect combination In terms of the compatibility of champagne and sushi it must be said that few food items compliment the taste of champagnes as well as sushi. The rice wine vinegar used in sushi softens the sharp acidity of champagnes, while their mineral nature accentuates nicely the fresh and mild ingredients of sushi. Salty soy sauce and piquant wasabi used to flavor sushi may create an imbalance with the driest champagnes, but sweeter styles often work well. Champagnes with residual sugar also work with gari – ginger pickled in vinegar, salt and sugar – offered to clean the taste buds when enjoying sushi. Although champagne and sushi present good taste pairs in general, there are features in both sushi and champagnes that are good to know to find the perfect combinations. SAKE OR CHAMPAGNE – THE RIGHT DRINK WITH SUSHI? Sushi means sour-tasting in Japanese. The name comes from the first ever sushi in the Nara period, when fish was soured in salt and fermented rice. The goal was to preserve it longer. The souring process broke the fish proteins into amino acids, which gave the fish a strong umami taste. Umami underlines the aggressive flavors in drinks, accentuating sharp acids, possible tannins, spices and bitterness. This is why traditional sushi is better suited to soft beers, mild tea and fruity sake. The sushi popular in the west represent the so-called Edo sushi, in which the taste is defined by fresh ingredients and vinegar-flavored rice. ANDREAS LARSSON Creative Sommelier at PM & Vänner, Växjö, Sweden “The Best Sommelier in the World 2007”, ASI “I consider champagne a great partner for sushi, mostly because I do have a weak spot for this intriguing and fun beverage. My analytical side would say that a lot of flavours such as scallops, crab, the Japanese omelet, sea urchin, etc. are quite sweetish in taste and the combination of vibrant acidity and a hint of sugar are most adaptable to this. Thus if we opt for champagne with sushi, I would not go for extra brut, rather a normal level of dosage and I do have a slight preference for blanc de blancs and fresher Chardonnay driven styles. The notion of Pinot Noir or sensation of red wine together with fish doesn’t appeal to my palate.” 64 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Since the Edo period, the fish used in sushi has been raw and the accompanying rice has been flavored with rice wine vinegar to emulate the taste created traditionally by the souring process. Since raw fish has less umami than sour fish, even more aggressive champagnes go with the Edo sushi now popular in western countries. The vinegar used in Edo sushi also cuts the most aggressive edge of the acidity in champagnes, making them at least an equally good match to Edo sushi as sake is.

Champagne to different sushi F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4 It is good to know the most common sushi types in order to combine different champagnes with them. They are maki, nigiri, inari and uraki and to a lesser degree, oshi and chirasi. Maki Maki is a roll wrapped in seaweed, nori, and filled with vegetables, fish or shellfish. The seaweed highlights the bitter qualities of the drinks, such as oakiness and tannin. In terms of harmonious taste combinations, it is best to avoid oaky and oxidative style wines and champagnes with maki. Since the nori seaweed gives structure to the taste of the sushi, a stuctured Pinot Noir dominant champagne may form a good match with it. Maki is best accompanied by brut or sec champagnes with more than six grams of residual sugar per litre. The slight sweetness of the champagne also supports the sweet ingredients, carrot and crab, often used as maki fillings. GERARD BASSET MS, MW, MBA, OBE Hotelier, Hotel TerraVina, Hampshire, UK “The Best Sommelier in the World 2010”, ASI “Of course, there are many types of sushi. However, for the classic tuna, salmon or other firm fish sushi a blanc de noirs champagne or any other energetic champagne can be wonderful.” Nigiri Nigiri sushi differ from maki sushi, because instead of rolls they are like sushi cakes topped with fresh ingredients ranging from fish to scallops and boiled crabs. Although nigiri sushi do not have seaweed, which brings out the bitterness in wines, the ingredients on top of the sushi rice represent a mild sweetness, which is why brut champagnes with some residual sugar are a better match to them than dry champagnes. A nigiri subtype is the gunkan sushi, a rice cake wrapped in seaweed with roe or tamago, an eggroll sushi wrapped in nori seaweed. With them it is advisable to select a sec champagne with slightly more residual sugar. Uraki Uraki can be counted as maki, because it is also a roll wrapped in seaweed, but the rice is around the seaweed. The best known uraki sushi is the California roll said to have been developed in the United States in the 1960s by Chef Ichiro Mashita from the Tokyo Kaika sushi bar in Los Angeles. California rolls, flavored with toasted sesame seeds and avocado, are best paired with slightly creamier champagnes, such as blanc de blancs or chardonnay-dominant champagnes. Again, it is better to favor champagnes with some residual sugar. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 65

HISTORY OF SUSHI Sushi has a long history. The traditional Japanese treats hark back to the 7th century, when it was customary in Far East Asia to preserve fish by salting it and curing it with fermented rice. The fish were cleaned, salted and filled with fermented rice, until months later they were eaten without the rice. This food became popular in the Nara period and there are still some slightly modified sushi, the nare sushi, made in the same fashion. Today the fish are salted and put under a weight in wooden containers to cure without rice. Finally the salt-matured fish are served with rice. The nare sushi served today are a mixture of two eras in Japanese sushi culture, merging the pickled fish of the Nara period and the fermented rice that became popular in the Muromachi period. In the Muromachi period in the 15th century were born the nama nare sushi, which combined fermented rice and fish, unlike before. The flavor of the ingredients became more important than preservation of the fish. One of the most popular sushi treats was fresh fish wrapped in rice called seisei sushi. The kind of sushi increasingly popular in western countries in the past few decades can be traced back to the Edo period in the 19th century. Fermented rice was no longer used in Edo, current Tokyo, and its taste was imitated by adding rice wine vinegar to the cooked rice. There was a need for fast food in the busy city and stalls selling easy-to-eat finger food, rice treats, filled with fresh fish and vegetables, began to appear on the streets. The traditional sashimi, raw fish and meat, were combined with rice for the first time in Japan in the late 1820s. This gave birth to the Edo sushi, the most popular sushi in the world today. Hanaya Yoheini, a Tokyo chef in the early 19th century, is said to have developed them. ENRICO BERNARDO Restaurateur, Il Vino & Goust Restaurants, Paris & Courchevel, France “The Best Sommelier in the World 2004”, ASI “Champagne and sushi is a great combination. The effervescence of the champagne balances perfectly the sweet taste of raw fish. The purity of the champagne aroma (unlike wood-aged wines) respects and exalts the delicacy of sushi.” Inari Sec champagnes are also good matches to inari sushi. The fried tofu lining the rice cake brings out the sweetness and to balance it out, it is good to choose a champagne with more than ten grams of residual sugar. Sec-type champagnes are safe choices, but sweeter brut champagnes also work with inari. ISA BAL MS Head Sommelier at The Fat Duck, Berkshire, UK “The Best Sommelier of Europe 2008”, ASI “My past experiences tell me that when it comes to sushi there is nothing better than a good sake, hot or cold, whichever you prefer. Champagne of course would be a natural choice when I don’t have the opportunity to drink sake.” 66 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4 Oshi The preparation method of oshi sushi, popular in Japan’s Osaka, differs from that of the sushi rolls and cakes best known in western countries. There is more rice in these tightly pressed sushi and the dominating taste is sour rather than sweet. This is why even the drier extra brut champagnes work with oshi. ALDO SOHM Head Sommelier at Le Bernardin, New York, US “Best Sommelier in the World 2008”, World Sommelier Association Chirasi Chirasi is a sushi portion served in a large bowl with a host of various fresh ingredients from fish to shellfish and vegetables on a bed of rice. There is no nori in chirasi and crispy dry blanc de blancs champagnes high in acidity would be a good match for them. “I do like champagne with sushi very much. However, it’s not as super easy to combine the two as it seems. As a general rule, brut champagnes work better than extra brut or brut nature champagnes. It depends on how much soy sauce is used – the more soy sauce is involved, the better it works with aged champagne. The type of fish used in Sushi is also relevant. For Uni (sea urchin roe), Otoro (supreme tuna belly with high fat content) and scallop I use richer champagnes, such as vintage bruts or non-vintage ones with higher content of reserve wines.” SUSHI VERSATILITY The internationalized sushi culture has given champagne an opportunity to stand out as not just an incomparable drink for special occasions, but also an outstanding wine for meals. Sushi served as snacks bring many flavors to the table and offer a wide variety of choices in matching them with champagne. When selecting a champagne to sushi, residual sugar is a better guide than champagne type. The driest champagnes are best served as aperitif, since they are too tart for sushi. Beyond that it depends on how much money one wants to spend on the champagne. There is plenty of choice in non-vintage, vintage and prestige cuvée champagnes. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 67

Photo: 68 Singha l 2018 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2018 The Perfect Start to… Text: Rajiv Singhal ...the Championships Wimbledon 2018 upon the grounds of the All England Lawn Tennis Club. This year is the 132nd – making it the oldest and arguably the most prestigious Grand Slam tennis tournament. This year celebrates the 150th anniversary of the Club that was better known in the day for croquet mallets than tennis racquets. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 69

Traditions take centre-stage The Grounds in London’s SW19 Played over two weeks in July, at Wimbledon – lawn tennis neighbourhood are revered for 674 matches are scheduled in 13 should be played on grass; it still the soles that have tread on them days to cover 16 events. In the references Ladies and Gentlemen; – the legendary champions who unfortunate event of washed the all-white dress code is strictly have inscribed their names on the out days during the first week of enforced; strawberries and cream prized trophies year after year – the tournament, in exceptional are gluttoned; the Royal Box is hundreds of thousands of tennis years, ‘People’s Sunday’ is rolled for the monarch, nobility and lovers and pros, first timers and out with unreserved seating and celebrities; the shade of Green regulars, young and old, students inexpensive access – last in 2004. hasn’t changed and Centre Court and professionals, commoners isn’t drowned in the clutter of ad and royals alike turn the stiles to banners. pay obeisance at Wimbledon with an electric exuberance! 70 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA It’s Day 9 – the Gentlemen’s Singles Quarter-Finals – the formidable trio of Roger Federer,

FINE Winter 2018 Rafael Nadal and Novak Djokovic will step out to progress their bids to add a 14th Wimbledon title to their names and claim this year’s purse of £2.25 million. Our ‘prized’ Centre Court tickets won’t let us see the icon we have come all the way to see – top seed Federer has not been assigned to Centre Court. Thankfully, a ‘swap’ is organised and we get our space under the Court No. 1 sun! In a clinical display of what has become his trademark, Photo: AEL TC David Le venson Federer extends his record 32 set winning streak and swiftly races to a match-winning lead of two sets to love. The lanky South African, Kevin Anderson, serves to save match point in the 10th game of the third set. A very casual backhand lobbed return from the eight-time champion drops wide of the base (and side) 18 nghal 20 Photo: Si lines! This is the turning point of the match – enough to prompt an end to my pilgrimage – I don’t want to warrant eviction for jeering and can’t bear to watch further. The challenger fights back and takes the game in a five-setter. Game, set, match… Mr. Anderson! years, have been selected by the All-England Club as the “Official Champagne at Wimbledon” since 2001. At the very stylish Lanson Marquee in the VIP Village, I Inspired by Emperor Napoléon pick a smartly jacketed piccolo Bonaparte, in ‘my’ defeat, I need (with a straw – paper not plastic) Champagne! over a flute of the Lanson Black Lanson, the Reims-based champagne house which has been around for a little over 250 Label – truly refreshing and delicious enough to overpower my horrifying experience. Photo: Sing hal 2018 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 71

/Lanson 2018 Photo: Ben Fisher “Champagne Lanson embodies of Wimbledon”, Robinsons created 1977. Ralph Lauren kit all on-court and the recipe for Lemon Barley Water officials and the ball boys and girls celebrates achievements. It is an to quench players’ thirst and is the in navy and cream outfits as the honour that our relationship has Official Still Soft Drink since 1935. Official Outfitter since 2006… been extended for another five “When your traditions are known to years – till 2023. Such relationships all, you’ve made history”, Rolex has set Lanson apart from the other been the Official Timekeeper since Champagne houses”, announces 1978. IBM is “making the unmissable, Paul Beavis, the Managing Director unmissable” of Lanson UK & Export. Official exce l l e n ce, i n n ova t i o n Continuity is the big mantra at the All England Club for Wimbledon, whose unique image and character is maintained through long-term commitments and the decision not to commercialise overtly. 72 of as Supplier Information Te c h n o l o g y s i n ce 1990. “Since 1977, the perfect start to The Championships, Wimbledon”, Lanson is the Official Slazenger is “the ball that has Champagne since seen it all” – the Official Ball since 2001 building on a 1902 – the longest partnership in relationship since the history of sport. “A real taste the centenary year FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA the In the hospitality district, guests from around the globe are taken through a guided tasting experience of the Lanson labels –

FINE Winter 2018 Photo: Ben Fishe r/Lanson 2018 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 73

Photo: Singhal 201 8 from the Brut Black Label to the White Label, I head to Centre Rose Label to the White Label Court for the Rafael Nadal – Juan Sec (to meet the dress code on Martin Del Potro power slugfest the grounds) to the Green Label armed with Lanson piccolos to Organic (that commemorates the quench my thirst and 150th Anniversary of the Club shades to on its special label) to the Cuvée cover the Extra Age. Anton Hobbs, Export scorching Director, explains “Our unique s u m m e r style of Champagne is liked sun. I didn’t and enjoyed by customers. The anticipate neoprene bottle cooler jackets that that this would are fun, collectible and cherished be were hugely popular and have five-setter of been repeated on demand.” epic proportions After a delectable Champagne Lanson afternoon tea with the 74 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA another (had to go back for my piccolos) – Photo C : AELT

A very eventful day with its open again – for more Lanson, – Game, Set, Match… Mr. Nadal own highs and lows, but thankful more strawberries and cream was the final call by the chair for the calming influence of and more action-packed tennis umpire – sets him up for the semi- delicate bubbles rising in glasses – the quintessential Wimbledon finals against Mr. Djokovic. marked with the Maltese Cross! experience! > Till next summer, when the doors FINE Winter 2018 it hung in balance till the very end 2018 Photo: Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 75

76 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2016 100 Best Champagnes in Text: Essi Avellan MW, Juha Lihtonen Illustration: Minna Liukkonen In the years that FINE has produced the ranking of the 100 Best Champagnes of the year, a glorious set of winners has been crowned. In 2010, the first year in which these muchsought-after rankings were launched, the title of Best Champagne was awarded to Armand de Brignac Brut Gold, in 2011 to Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, in 2012 to Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000, in 2013 to Charles Heidsieck 2000, in 2014 to Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 and in 2015 to Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002. The multi-vintage prestige cuvée, Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle, joins this elite list as it is awarded the “Best Champagne in 2016”. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 77

100 Best Champagnes in 2016 C hampagne is pre-dominantly non-vintage (sans année), with vintages released only in exceptional years. The styles of Champagne range from blanc de recent releases, any release that is still commercially available blancs to blanc de noirs, rosé, and several dosage levels. limited availability. For this year’s shortlist, we had received Every champagne label has a uniqueness to it and we taste around 250 eligible champagnes, which were blind tasted by the the entire offering that is available on the international FINE team. markets so that we can guide you through the best picks. anywhere in the world can be considered, even if it may have We do not give any points for future expectations, which is the reason why the points for most top champagne’s are likely to rise as the bottle approaches maturity. As many age-worthy The Methodology Our aim with this annual ranking is to select the champagnes that are showing best and give the consumer drinking pleasure – this very moment. The most important criterion is the quality of the champagne and its accessibility today. In fact, FINE believes these to be the only characteristics that really matter to the consumer. We assess the champagnes on the 100-point scale. Contrary to many other rankings, our list of the 100 Best Champagnes is not based on a single tasting; instead, we take into account all of the tastings that we had been privy to during the year. This gives us a comprehensive view of the 78 Even though we encourage the producers to enter the most prestige cuveés are released young, they may not be able to show their true character at this early stage. These are the bottles that the consumer should forget in the cellar for a number of years… Any champagne making it into the Top 100 in the rigorous tasting can be warmly recommended. After all, reaching an average blind tasting score of 88 points or higher is a FINE achievement. Results The average score of the champagnes making it to the Top 100 list was 90.36 points, which was slightly higher than last year (90.2 points). Competition for the top position was tight; the champagnes that took position 1 to 5 ended up within a two-point range. quality and enjoyability of the wines and The deserving winner by a half-a-point margin was Laurent- allows us to eliminate the odd “bad” Perrier Grand Siècle with record-breaking average points from us – bottle from our ratings. 95.75! It has been a consistent performer in the rankings over the FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2016 years, making its way up from the 24th position last year. Its toughest competition came from rosés: the built-to-last Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 and the fantastically showing non-vintage Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve. Over all, as many as three from the Charles Heidsieck cellar made it to the Top 10 with Brut Réserve at 6th and Blanc des Millénaires 1995 at 9th position. Prestige cuvées expectedly occupied the majority of the top spots, and made up around 40 per cent of the whole Top 100 list. The non-vintage champagnes took an approximate third of the positions, with the first of them – Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve – achieving laudable 3rd position. The other top performers were Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (6th), Henriot Rosé Brut (13th), CanardDuchêne Brut Rosé (27th), and Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Blanc de Blancs (30th). The vintage category is represented on this Top 100 list by 25 champagnes, with Henriot Rosé 2008 (10th), Palmer & Co 2008 (12th), Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 (17th), and Charles Heidsieck Rosé 2006 (20th) amongst the 20 best. Our best grower champagne was Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 (40th), followed closely by two Spécial Clubs, José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2008 (43rd) and Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club 2009 (59th). From the cooperatives, Palmer & Co 2008 was the best coop champagne (12th). Orpale 2002 from De Saint Gall was second (14th), while Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut was third (28th). We had a few great examples of the 2002’s, proving the monumental capacity of this generous vintage: De Saint Gall Orpale (14th), Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé (22nd), G.H. Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou (26th). Released many years after the early birds, Dom Pérignon Rosé (2nd) and Krug Vintage (5th) are making many reassess the hot, disdained 2003 vintage. Only one 2004 made it on the 100 Best – Joseph Perrier Cuvée Joséphine at 79th position. The sun-kissed 2005 delivered several highlights: Ayala Perle d'Ayala (32nd), Bollinger La Grande Année (42nd) and Charles Heidsieck Vintage (46th). There were a dazzling 22 champagnes from the generous and muscular 2006 amongst our 100 Best. The biggest joy was delivered by Dom Pérignon Brut (4th), Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (8th), Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame (joint 10th), Deutz Cuvée William Deutz (15th) and Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé (17th). Only five 2007’s made it to the list with Dampierre Family Reserve (16th), Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée (49th) and Gosset Célébris Rosé Extra Brut (58th). The coolly elegant and energetic 2008 vintage had Henriot Rosé (joint 10th), Palmer & Co (12th), José Michel & Fils Spécial Club (43rd) and Taittinger (45th) as its best performers. The harmonious and supple 2009 offered pleasure in the form of Louis Roederer Rosé (23rd), Deutz (51st) and Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs (56th). 2010’s sole successful champagne was Doyard’s single-vineyard blanc de blancs Clos de l'Abbaye (93rd). The same Vertus grower was very successful with his 2011 Oeil de Perdrix rosé (40th). Top vintages A couple of mature vintages shined in our tasting with their aged mellowness and time-built complexity. Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995, which has long pleased our palates, is fully mature now and keeping great form – finished 9th this year. Duval-Leroy’s majestic 1996 Femme de Champagne in magnum (7th) is probably the finest ever Champagne made by the house. . The annual list of the 100 Best Champagnes is based on tastings and ratings by FINE Magazine’s editorial team and selected expert guest judges. The final point score of each wine consists of the average of the many blind tastings. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 79

The BEST CHAMPAGNES in 2016 Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle In the year 1812, the family of Alphonse Laurent traded from being coopers in the Montagne de Reims to making Champagne in Tours-sur-Marne. Decades later the son, Eugène Laurent married Mathilde Émile Perrier, who was widowed as a young 29 year old. But, she did not lack ambition or enterprise and took over the champagne house, whose name she changed to Veuve Laurent Perrier. She ran the business successfully but had no children and her eventual death in 1925 brought the house to a champagne heiress, Marie-Louise de Nonancourt, sister of Victor and Henri Lanson. There was no room for Marie-Louise at the Lanson family enterprise, so she took the courageous step of buying a champagne business in 1938 despite raising four children alone after her husband’s death. Under her leadership, the business survived the Second World War, but Marie-Louise’s succession plans had to change. The house was meant to be left for her oldest son, Maurice, who was active in the resistance movement. He died in a concentration camp. Bernard de Nonancourt, MarieLouise’s second son, who also held a high position in the resistance movement, survived and took over the business to build one of the biggest, most respected and best-known Champagne Houses, ranked among the five biggest sellers. A great Champagne figurehead and firm believer in the region’s terroir and style of wine, Bernard de Nonancourt made Laurent-Perrier to be what it is today. Appointed Chairman of the Board of Champagne Laurent-Perrier in 1949, he worked at the house till his death in 2010. Bernard de Nonancourt focussed on the Chardonnay-oriented, fruity and light style for the house instead of the once-predominant Pinot Noir. His vision for the house style was to be one of freshness and elegance and he led his team to create the celebrated prestige cuvée Grand Siècle. The creation of this luxury cuvée has been a significant accomplishment of de Nonancourt. At the time of its launch in 1959, Grand Siècle was one of the first luxury cuvées and the very first multi-vintaged one. Stylistically, Grand Siècle is a skillfully crafted melange of vivacity, generosity and agederived complexity. Laurent-Perrier chooses not to communicate the three vintages used for each multi-vintage wine, but each cuvée is naturally unique. A harmonious blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three fine years, our panel was charmed by the current 2002, 1999 and 1997 blend. Led by the majestic 2002 vintage, the characterful blend is complemented by the mellow and rich 1999 and finely detailed 1997. Instantly impressive, but built to last, we toast to our Best Champagne in 2016. 80 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

96p Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle FINE Winter 2016 1 2 95p Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut MV. Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Bright lemony. Colour: Deep cherry. Nose: Stylish nose with ample yeast layered complexity. Lovely gunpowdery and toasty nuances. Nose: Rich, generous, plush. Lovely spicy touches and explosive raspberry fruit. Full, winey body with spicy richness. Palate: Super smooth, complex palate. Lots of minerality and sulphitic complexity. Palate: Strong, big palate coming with a notion of tannin. Ending: Long, lingering, pure. Ending: Long and silky, winey finish with a stylish phenolic bite. In a nutshell: Age-built complexity meets impeccable freshness. In a nutshell: Soothingly evolved and winey. Food pairing: Whitefish Walewska. Food pairing: Saltimbocca alla Romana. Final verdict: An exuberant class act. Final verdict: All about Pinot. 4 3 94p Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve Style: Rosé Brut NV. 94p Dom Pérignon 2006 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Developed onion skin. Colour: Youthfully green-toned. Nose: Lovely, wild, evolved fruit, exuberant. Spicy, leather and baked peach. Nose: Expressive yeast-laden perfumy nose with peaches, vanilla, coffee and cream. Palate: Full-on satiny palate with builtin complexity. Palate: Plush, round, satiny, beautifully textured. Ending: Full of fruit and caressingly textured. Ending: Sweetly fruity and beguiling. In a nutshell: Such concentration and integration. Food pairing: Seared Tuna with Mushrooms and Linguini. Final verdict: Essence of complexity. In a nutshell: Round and soothing. Food pairing: Pan-fried Scallops with Lime and crispy Pancetta. Final verdict: Generous and hugely enjoyable. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 81

5 6 94p 94p Krug 2003 Style: Brut NV. Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Evolving gold-toned lemon. Colour: Developing gold-toned lemon. Nose: Stylish pastry and vanilla-lined, with lots of ageing richness. Coffee, cream and a melange of spices. Nose: Dried fruit nose with lovely spiciness and classy toasty edge. 7 Palate: Rich and textured mouth coating. Palate: Lovely acidity bites through the rich body. Ending: Persistent with vinosity taking the lead role. Ending: Great, complex length with velvety smoothness. In a nutshell: Lots of age-built complexity. In a nutshell: Layers upon layers. Food pairing: Vitello Tonnato. Food pairing: Fettucine with White Truffles. Final verdict: As rich as it gets. Final verdict: A whole cellar in one bottle. 93p Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Magnum 1996 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. 8 Nose: Charmer. Fireworks. Peach, marmalade and orange blossom layers. Colour: Pale lemon-green. Palate: Fluffy and feather-light. Ending: Persistent, seamless and soft – still coming with a drive. Ending: Lemony-floral perfumy length which carries on and on. In a nutshell: Pleasurable and building its way to the top. In a nutshell: Polished to perfection. Food pairing: Sole Meunier. Food pairing: Seared Scallops with Champagne-Vanilla Butter Sauce. Final verdict: Sheer perfection with ages ahead of it. Final verdict: Exceptional unbearable lightness. 93p Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 199 10 93p Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2006 Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Evolving lemony colour with golden hues. Colour: Evolving lemony color with golden hues. Nose: Toasty. Generous coffee richness. Impressively intense dried fruits honey and vanilla complexity. Nose: Stylishly restrained. Mildly toasty with toffee. Ample red fruit, nuts, herbacious aromas and gunpowdery coolness. Palate: Super smooth – beyond velvety. Palate: Round and muscular palate with power behind. Ending: Mouth-coating, sweet and supple. In a nutshell: Peaking perfectly. Food pairing: Crevettes au Pastis et Risotto au Fenouil. Final verdict: Liquid gold. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006 Nose: Pure, pristine creamy nose with crystal clear fruitiness. Lemon, vanilla, white flowers. Palate: Cheerful, playful, full of energy. Zesty acidity in line with the crisp, pristine fruitiness. 82 93p Style: Prestige Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage. Colour: Bright lemony. 9 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve Ending: Lifted by the fine finishing acidity. In a nutshell: Muscular with style. Food pairing: Blinis & Caviar. Final verdict: All pieces in place.

12 93p Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Refined and squeaky clean with superb gunpowdery character and opulent toasty generosity. Colour: Beautifully peachy and evolving. Nose: Surprisingly toasty coffee-tones given the delicate colour. Palate: Plenty of bright succulent fruit. Round, fleshy, smooth, muscular with good tension. Palate: Light-bodied yet packed with fruit and flavour. Ending: Soft, vibrant and complex. Ending: Fine fruity length with invigorating freshness. In a nutshell: Super stylish. In a nutshell: Plenty of potential here. Food pairing: Lobster Bisque. Food pairing: Chicken Caesar Salad. Final verdict: Pure joy. Final verdict: Cool and nervy. 14 92p Henriot Rosé 92p Style: Rosé NV. De Saint Gall Orpale 2002 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Colour: Deep golden. Nose: Toasty vanilla-laden. Wooing with dried apricot and honey sweetness. Nose: Soft & toasty with lovely sweet charred notes and delicious ageing characters in abundance. Palate: Sweet and super intense. Vibrancy of fruit. 15 Palmer & Co 2008 Style: Brut Vintage. Henriot Rosé 2008 Style: Rosé Brut Vintage. 13 92p FINE Winter 2016 10 Ending: Full on life. Invigorating. Palate: Layered and mellow. Lovely freshness and energy. In a nutshell: Great harmony of aged and fresh elements. Ending: Long, elegant, lingering. Food pairing: Tuna Carpaccio with CitrusGinger Dressing. Food pairing: Crayfish Risotto. Final verdict: Wake up call. Final verdict: Grandeur. 92p Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 2006 Style: Brut Vintage In a nutshell: Peaking now. 16 92p Dampierre Family Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2007 Colour: Medium-deep lemon-gold Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage. Nose: Strong and positively reductive. Gunpowdery undertone. Asian spices, rich red fruit and fine toastiness. Colour: Pale lemon. Palate: Refined creamy-zesty palate full of life. Ending: Long and focused with a energising cool breeze. In a nutshell: Fine mix of aromas in harmony. Nose: A mild vanilla and cream cheese note alongside crisp white fruit profile with faint toastiness. Palate: Creamy, fresh and harmonious. Ending: Long, lean and crisp with plenty of drive. In a nutshell: Pure. Food pairing: Pan-fried Swordfish Fillet. Food pairing: Grilled Tiger Prawns. Final verdict: Fresh as a daisy. Final verdict: Textbook blanc de blancs. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 83

17 18 92p 92p Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Style: Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Glossy pale colour with peachy hues. Colour: Medium-deep cherry. Nose: Elegant, fruity with peachy tone prevailing alongside toast and cream tones. Nose: Deep, vinous, toasty, spicy red berries with cherry and earthy notes. Palate: Silky, fresh, light-weight. Creamy soft mousse. Textured mouth-feel. Palate: Smoky and reductive with plenty of built-in power. For the time being tight. Ending: Fresh, lingering, purifying finish. Ending: Persistent and winey. In a nutshell: Regally elegant. In a nutshell: Forget it in the cellar for a few years. Food pairing: Duck Carpaccio with Seaurchin Foam, Romanesco and Lotus Root Crisp. Food pairing: Lobster Benedict. Final verdict: Spot on from beginning to end. Final verdict: Unashamedly Pinot. 19 92p Louis Roederer Cristal 2006 20 92p Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Nose: Mild and restrained with layers of sulphitic complexity, gunpowder, ripe fresh peaches and toast. Nose: Gorgeous, toasty with lovely coffee and cream notes and evolving exuberance. Palate: Impeccably intense yet light-weight. Enhanced acidity yet very stylish. Palate: Vinous and fresh with exemplary intensity and richness of texture. Ending: Long, mouth-watering, squeaky clean. Ending: Long, plush acid-lined finish. In a nutshell: Oozing fruit. In a nutshell: Polished and refined. Food pairing: Toast Skagen with Caviar. Food pairing: Pan-fried Salmon with Chanterelle Ravioli. Final verdict: Hugely transparent. Final verdict: Climbing its way up 92p Alexandre Penet Extra Brut 2006 92p Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Medum-deep lemon. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Nose: Lovely rich, toasty and coffee-laden nose with lots of yeasty complexity. Nose: Lots of coffee and toasty tones. Intensely fruity with spicy and yeasty complexity. Ending: Long fruity length. In a nutshell: Fine balance of fruit and ageing characters. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 22 Style: Extra Brut Vintage. Palate: Overt, round spicy and turboboosted with fruit. 84 Charles Heidsieck Rosé 2006 Style: Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Lemony youthful colour. 21 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2006 Palate: Winey yet tight with gorgeous, driven acidity. Ending: Nervy, fresh and lingering. In a nutshell: Still in its youth. Food pairing: Fresh Oysters. Food pairing: Pigeon with Cep Risotto. Final verdict: Shining. Final verdict: Burgundian.

92p Louis Roederer Rosé 2009 24 92p Style: Rosé Brut Vintage. Deutz Amour de Deutz Rosé 2006 FINE Winter 2016 23 Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Pale peachy-pink. Colour: Medium-deep peach. Nose: Elegant, layered nose of peach, vanilla and lemon. Nose: Stylish fresh berries with vanilla, roasted coffee and spices. Palate: Silky with explosive fruitiness and invigorating freshness. Palate: Caressingly textured and fleshy, vinous yet crisp. Ending: Refined and supple. Ending: Pure and fresh. In a nutshell: Truly elegant. In a nutshell: Lovely exuberance. Food pairing: Chevre-gratinated Portobello. Food pairing: Prosciutto-wrapped Fried Scallops with Truffle-oil Fettucini. Final verdict: A palate cleanser. Final verdict: Fleshy yet fresh. 25 92p Henriot 2006 26 Style: Brut Vintage. 91p G.H. Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou 2002 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Deep golden. Nose: Sweet, mouth-wateringly delicious – on the reductive side. Fragrant and fruity with gorgeous mineral and toasty layers alongside vanilla and coffee tones. Nose: Mild and refined. Soft candy and vanilla sweetness. Palate: Fine intensity shows a degree of stylish restraint. Ample. Palate: Exuberantly fruity with high voltage energy and zestiness. Ending: Fruit-packed and enhanced Ending: Long, lean and fresh finish of great purity. In a nutshell: Plenty of character Food pairing: Crab Cakes with Remoulade. In a nutshell: Beautiful toast and gunpowder complexity. Final verdict: Impeccable harmony. Food pairing: Grilled Pike-perch with Creamed Morels. Final verdict: Classy. 27 91p Canard-Duchêne Rosé Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Sweet apricot with light toasty-smoky undertone Palate: Fresh, fleshy and lively with a good dose of energy Ending: Squeaky clean and elegant In a nutshell: Succulent fruitiness When to drink: 2016-2020 Food pairing: Sushi Final verdict: Ease and elegance 28 91p Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2006 Style: Extra Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Powerfully overt with ripe red and white fruit. Palate: Strong, spicy taste with a curiously sweet character. Ending: Long-lasting voluptuous with just enough freshness to breathe life into the concentrated fruit. In a nutshell: Fine caressing mousse. Food pairing: Pan-fried Whitefish with Lemon Butter Sauce. Final verdict: In a character of its own. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 85

29 91p Thiénot Cuvée Stanislas 2006 30 91p Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage. Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut NV. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Stylish, creamy, fruity, vanilla-laden with lemon, apple and a salty mineral touch. Very light toasty undertone. Nose: A sweet candied tone to the tropical fruity, charred, coffee and gunpowder. Palate: Layered, concentrated, well rounded. Palate: Rich, soft, overt. A bit loose and fluffy. Ending: Velvet-smooth and lingering. Ending: Gently advancing, mellow finish. In a nutshell: Great spine and purity. In a nutshell: Fireworks of aromas. Food pairing: Waldorf Salad. Food pairing: Crispy King Prawns with Lime and Ginger. Final verdict: All you need from a blanc de blancs. Final verdict: Sweet and seductive 32 31 91p 91p Pierre Mignon Année de Madame 2006 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Pale lemon. Nose: Curious, zesty, lemony with chalky mineral notes and marmalade richness. Nose: Full-on, charred spiciness with gingerbread and oriental notes. A mild oxidative and earthy tone. Palate: Firm, dry and focused. Palate: Winey and concentrated, very ripe. Ending: Zingy with a lemony bite. Ending: Generous and long. In a nutshell: Fresh as seabreeze. In a nutshell: Maturing quickly. Food pairing: Grilled Sole with Lemon Sauce. Food pairing: Grilled Turbot with Mushroom Canneloni. Final verdict: In a personality of its own. Final verdict: Plush and plump. 34 33 91p G.H. Mumm Mumm de Cramant Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut NV. Colour: Pale lemon-green. Nose: Creamy-toasty with vanilla, wax and white flowers alongside sulphitic notes. Palate: Tight and fresh with caressing, creamy mousse. 86 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Ayala Perle d'Ayala 2005 91p De Saint Gall Demi-Sec Style: Demi-Sec NV. Colour: Pale lemon. Nose: Stylish, candy-toned, refinedly charred with marshmallow and vanilla characters. Palate: Plush, fresh and lively. Ending: Pure and fruity length. Ending: Medium-long, notably sweet but in a fine balance. In a nutshell: Crispy and zesty. In a nutshell: Attractive sweet character. Food pairing: Nigiri with sepia, salmon and prawn. Food pairing: Foie gras canapés with pickled apricot. Final verdict: Beautifully light, yet intense. Final verdict: Sweet but super fresh.

36 91p Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs Gosset Grand Millésime 2006 Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Blanc de Blancs NV. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Pale lemon. Nose: Stylish, rich, ripe red fruit, confectionary, toast, spearmint and yeast. Nose: Expressive, bright and fruity with superb toasty overtone to the plush tropical fruit. Palate: Tart, zesty and clean with good fruit ripeness. A faint oxidative note. Palate: Intense, linear and fruit-packed. Ending: Energetic with both power and precision. Ending: Crispy clean, dry and full of life. In a nutshell: Long and focused. In a nutshell: Age-derived complexity. Food pairing: Truffle Profiteroles. Food pairing: Sauteed Tiger Prawns with Lemongrass Noodles. Final verdict: Polished to perfection. Final verdict: Plenty of delicious fruit. 37 38 91p Krug Grande Cuvée 91p Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Style: Prestige Cuvée Blanc de Noirs MV. Style: Prestige Cuvée MV. Colour: Medium-deep lemon-gold. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Mild refined red fruit with apples, spices, honey and apricot. An elegant restraint. Nose: Strong, oak-complexed, white fruit with spicy notes, yeast and baked apple. Palate: Concentrated and velvety-caressing. Palate: Overt, round, fleshy and spicy – full of exuberant fruit. Ending: Persistent, boosted and exuberantly fruity. Ending: Very long, lingering and plush. Perfectly dosed. Smooth easiness. In a nutshell: Seamless. 39 91p FINE Winter 2016 35 In a nutshell: Instantly appealing. Food pairing: Grilled Monkfish with Buttery Lemon Sauce. Food pairing: Beetroot Salmon Tartar. Final verdict: Layered and sophisticated. Final verdict: Pinot power. 91p Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006 Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Soft, fresh white fruit with lovely gunpowdery complexity alongside a positively vegetal tone. Palate: Impressively muscular with softness of texture and fruity opulence. Ending: Stylishly long and seamless. In a nutshell: Pretty perfumy tones complement the whole. Food pairing: Prawn Pasta with Coriander and Lime. Final verdict: All pieces fit right in. 40 91p Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru 2011 Style: Extra Brut Vintage. Colour: Pretty, pale peachy with a yellow hue. Nose: Apricot and apple with mild spicy and chalky-earthy undertones and a light oaky note. Palate: Fleshy and chewy. Accentuated acidity brings welcome crispness and firmness. Ending: Very dry finish with a touch of phenolics enhancing the gastronomic character. In a nutshell: Positively energetic. Food pairing: Grilled Lemon Basil Snapper with Roasted Peppers. Final verdict: Elegant and gastronomic at the same time FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 87

42 41 90p 90p Deutz Amour de Deutz 2006 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Medium-deep peach-hued colour. Nose: Mild, creamy, white fruit profile with vanilla and gentle spicy toastiness emerging. Nose: Strong, charred, characterful with a notable oxidative tone and explosive superripe fruitiness. Palate: Soft and round, fluffy, highly creamy in texture. 43 Ending: Textured and long. In a nutshell: Attractive with easiness. In a nutshell: Gastronomic and oak-lined. Food pairing: White Asparagus with Smoked Salmon and Hollandaise Sauce. Food pairing: Grilled Swordfish in Appletarragon Sauce. Final verdict: Beautiful lightness. Final verdict: Massive and winey. 90p José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2008 44 90p Palmer & Co Amazon de Palmer Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Brut NV. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Medium-deep and gold-hued. Nose: Stylishly charred but mild and creamy with plenty of pristine white fruit. Nose: Full-on, super toasty with an earthyspicy note, coffee, cream and vanilla. Palate: Intense, well-built with crispy tension. Palate: Opulent, smooth-textured and seamless, coming with a beautiful acid line. Ending: Long, nicely balanced finish. Ending: Long, velvety and caressing. In a nutshell: Fine energy and drive. In a nutshell: Fully mature and ready to go. Food pairing: Smoked Whitefish with Potato Salad. Food pairing: Salmon Pastrami with Red Cabbage & Green Apple Slaw. Final verdict: Expressively fruity. Final verdict: Burgundian. 46 90p Taittinger 2008 Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Elegantly restrained. Oozes white flowers, lemon and vanilla. Palate: Crisp and zingy – very elegant. Ending: Invigoratingly nervy with saline character. In a nutshell: Behind the restraint and coolness hides plenty of fruit. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Palate: Full, viscous, oily and concentrated. Ending: Elegantly lingering. 45 88 Bollinger La Grande Année 2005 90p Charles Heidsieck 2005 Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Developing gold-hued lemon. Nose: Pronounced honey and dried fruit with spice, coffee and yeast complexity. Palate: A high stage of evolution with mellowness, vinosity and voluptuousness. Ending: Concentrated and lingering. In a nutshell: Open and generous. Food pairing: Fettuccine al Limone e Scampi Grigliati. Food pairing: Sesame Crusted Tuna with Endive Salad. Final verdict: Satiny and pure. Final verdict: Come-hither charm.

90p Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé 48 90p Style: Rosé Brut NV. Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV Style: Rosé NV. Colour: Medium-deep with cherry tones. Colour: Medium-deep cherry. Nose: Deeply fruity with opulent berried richness. Nose: Stylish, fruity but a touch restrained. Stone fruits, toffee and spice. Palate: Winey and spicy with silkiness of texture but firmness from a stylish phenolic bite. Palate: Zippy yet ample and firm with focused fruitiness. Ending: Fruity, lingering finish. Ending: Medium-long and full of fruit. In a nutshell: Lots of hidden power and perfect fruit purity. In a nutshell: Plenty of depth. Food pairing: Vorschmack. Food pairing: Feta and Chicken Couscous with Vine Tomatos and Mint. Final verdict: Open and ready to charm. Final verdict: Fleshy and firm. 49 90p Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée 2007 50 90p Pierre Mignon Harmonie de Blancs Grand Cru 2008 Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage. Colour: Super deep pink. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Very Burgundian with highly characterful Pinot. Coffee, spice and tea notes. Nose: Soft, mild, bright with ample white fruit, cream and meadowy fragrance. Palate: Crisp and vibrant with light-weight feel but with inherent intensity. Palate: Full, round and winey that surprises with its freshness. Ending: Dry, pure finish with stylish toastiness lingering toasty note. Ending: Long and concentrated with some tannin kicking in at the very end. In a nutshell: So much character. In a nutshell: Elegance and sophisticated style. Food pairing: Truffled Veal Carpaccio. Food pairing: Vongole Pasta with Prosciutto. Final verdict: Divides opinion. Final verdict: Fine harmonious whole. 52 51 90p Deutz Vintage 2009 90p Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Prestige 2006 Style: Vintage. Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Deep lemon. Colour: Bright lemony. Nose: Stylish, layered and refined with soft toastiness and gingerbread and fresh ginger notes. Nose: Ripe, plush yet elegantly subtle. Apple, yeast and spice. Palate: Friendly, velvety and succulent. Ending: Firm, fresh and fruity. FINE Winter 2016 47 Palate: Sweet, soft, velvety and chewy. Ending: Lingering but on the sweet side. In a nutshell: Plenty of instant appeal. In a nutshell: Lovely and rich expression of fruit. Food pairing: Smoked Whitefish with Green Asparagus. Food pairing: Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Bacon. Final verdict: Caressing. Final verdict: Easy to like. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 89

53 54 90p Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Blanc de Noirs Colour: Medium-deep cherry with emerging onionskin tones. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Stylish, spicy-fruity with a degree of restraint. Nose: Beautifully fresh and pure with ample pristine fruitiness in absence of any oxidative tones. Palate: Fleshy and zesty at the same time. Palate: Strong, winey and structured. Oaky notes more prominent with an oxidative notion. Ending: Fruit-forward and invigorating. Ending: Persistent, weighty finish. In a nutshell: Lemony and lively. In a nutshell: Muscular and masculine. Food pairing: Grilled Mackerels with Escalivada. Food pairing: Smoked Eel with Beetroot Chips. Final verdict: Generous but super fresh. Final verdict: Beautifully Burgundian. 90p 56 Henriot Blanc de Blancs Colour: Medium-deep lemon-green. Colour: Pale lemon. Nose: Gentle, clean and precise soft white fruit with peach, lemon and melon nuances. Beautiful lees depth and toasty complexity. Nose: Stylish, sweet, ripe and fruity with plenty of character, herbacious layers, toast and cream. Palate: Light-bodied yet intense, fresh with a gunpowdery mineral finish. Palate: Firm and chewy yet fresh with boosed soft fruity appeal. Ending: Mellow, fresh with generous, balanced. Ending: Long and seamless. In a nutshell: Lots more to come. Food pairing: Jerusalem Artichoke Risotto with Scallops. Final verdict: Fine complexity and evolving character. Final verdict: Toasty exuberance. 90p Canard-Duchêne Authentic Vintage 2008 Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Pale lemon. Nose: Expressive with bright yellow fruit, vanilla, croissant and lemon. Palate: Juicy and succulent. Linear and energetic. Ending: Sweet fruitiness, fine firm body and enough energy. In a nutshell: Boosted fruitiness showing some evolution. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2009 Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage. Food pairing: Baked Whitefish with Pea Purée. 90 90p Style: Blanc de Blancs NV. In a nutshell: Polished and pristine. 57 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2005 Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Style: Blanc de Noirs Brut NV. 55 90p 58 90p Gosset Célébris Rosé Extra Brut 2007 Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Extra Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Nose: Stylish, evolved, spicy-leathery red fruit and apple with plenty of character. Palate: Fresh, vibrant and firm full of explosive fruit. Ending: Long and very dry. Food pairing: Grilled Prawns with Lemongrass Noodles. In a nutshell: Succulent, delicious fruitiness. Final verdict: Neatly made and beautifully fresh. Final verdict: A great gastronomic rosé. Food pairing: Whitefish Escabeche.

90p Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club 2009 60 De Saint Gall Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Medium-deep bright lemony. Nose: Strong and ripe tropical fruit profile with ginger, cream and hazelnutty complexity. Nose: Stylishly soft and creamy toast enriched with lemon curd and mild spicy tones. Palate: Beautifully pristine fruitiness. Full-on from beginning to end. Palate: Fine and intense with stylishly creamy mousse. Ending: Dynamic palate with stylish zestiness but fine-tuned and perfectly harmonious. 61 90p Ending: Long, very dry and nervy. In a nutshell: Lots of ageing layers. In a nutshell: Beautiful mineral salinity. Food pairing: Fresh Oysters. Food pairing: Shrimp Cocktail. Final verdict: Dynamic. Final verdict: Linear but driven Chardonnay. 90p Boizel Grand Vintage 2007 62 90p Louis Roederer 2008 Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Bright lemon with golden tones. Nose: Exuberantly fruity with apple, toffee, yeast and spice dominating. A muted oxidative layer. Nose: Still somewhat closed. Pristine white and red fruit emerging lined with a delicious toasty note. Palate: Overt, fleshy, round and positively zesty character. Palate: Tight and fruit-packed with plenty of energy and tension. Promising good. Ending: Long with boosted fruitiness. Ending: Fresh, tarty lemon. In a nutshell: A bold palate more than compensates for the bruised nose. In a nutshell: Come back to this in a few years time. Food pairing: Grilled Snapper with Caper Sauce. Food pairing: Pan-fried Sweet Bread with Spring Vegetables. Final verdict: Explosively fruity. Final verdict: Puristic. 64 63 90p Jacques Rousseaux Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs 89p Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru Style: Rosé Brut NV. Style: Blanc de Noirs NV. Colour: Medium-deep peachy-salmon. Colour: Medium-deep lemon-gold. Nose: Complex. Beautifully fine-tuned, fresh, elegant toastiness. Plenty of Pinot character. Nose: Lifted and oak-lined. Ample fruitiness with depth and power. Palate: Big, generous, voluptuous and smooth-textured. Ending: Long lingering and fresh. FINE Winter 2016 59 Palate: Refined and zingy with supple fruitiness with a fluffy mousse. Ending: Crisp, succulent and vivacious. In a nutshell: Muscular power. In a nutshell: Pleasurable and easy to enjoy but classy. Food pairing: Trout with Brown Butter and Almonds. Food pairing: Pan-fried Ray Wing with Capers and Parsley Butter. Final verdict: Unashamedly bold. Final verdict: Fresh and vivacious. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 91

65 66 89p Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines 2006 89p Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Soft, vanilla and pastry with red fruit opulence and a mild spicy note. Nose: Fresh, appetite awakening with lemon, vanilla cream and toasty complexity. Palate: Fruity, bold and firm with stylish restraint. Palate: Squeaky clean fruit profile with suitable intensity without being heavy. Ending: Balanced with good freshness and intense, lingering finish. Ending: Soft and creamy with lemony freshness and an even menthol coolness. In a nutshell: Still in its youth. In a nutshell: Fresh and lively. 67 89p Food pairing: Sashimi. Food pairing: Fillet of John Dory with Globe Artichokes, Anchovy and Capers. Final verdict: Pristinely crafted. Final verdict: Depth and drive. Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Brut 2006 68 89p Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Style: Brut Vintage. Nose: Promising elegant restraint. Lemons, apples, raspberry lemonade and soft spiciness. Colour: Pale lemon. Palate: A surprising shyness at this stage. Nose: Plush, exuberant, evolving. Sweet vanilla, lemon and ripe apple with a light oxidative note. Ending: Ripe, bold fruitiness and soothing, balanced dosage. Palate: Zesty and succulent – has the character and freshness. In a nutshell: Strong style which still craves some more time. Ending: Long with fine salinity. In a nutshell: Positively tart and invigorating. Food pairing: Tempura Langoustine Tails. Final verdict: Welcoming. Final verdict: Generous. 69 70 89p Armand de Brignac Gold 89p Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut MV. Style: Demi-sec NV. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Intensely exuberant and evolving. Ripe apples with hint of vanilla. Nose: Fragrant and sweetly spicy ripe apple and candy. Palate: Sweet, generous, weighty with an oily smoothness. Palate: Fruity and plush, wide, rounded medium-sweet. Ending: Good freshness on the sweet finish. Ending: Long, nicely balanced finish. In a nutshell: Easiness combined to pleasurable ageing characters. In a nutshell: Succulent, sweet and generous. Food pairing: Asparagus Risotto with Smoked Salmon. Food pairing: Thai Red Curry with Prawns. Final verdict: Voluptuous. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Lanson Gold Label 2008 Colour: Pale lemon. Food pairing: Grilled Lobster with Vanilla Beurre Blanc. 92 Veuve Clicquot 2008 Final verdict: Sweet fruit bomb.

89p Ayala Rosé Majeu 89p FINE Winter 2016 72 71 Armand de Brignac Blanc de Blancs Style: Rosé Brut NV. Style: Prestige Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Brut MV. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Fresh, youthful, invigoratingly clean and crisp with elegant red fruit overtone. Nose: Rich, super ripe. Some lifted notes of white fruit, yellow apple and vanilla. Palate: Zesty, firm and full of positive energy. Palate: Strong, characterful, winey, viscous and concentrated. Ending: Fresh, long and fruit-forward. Ending: Long, sweet and silky. In a nutshell: Nervy and vivacious. In a nutshell: Silky-smooth and caressing. Food pairing: Beetroot and Goat Cheese Salad with Multi-seed Biscuit. Food pairing: Fresh Oysters, Mackerel and Apple. Final verdict: A harmonious whole. Final verdict: A big wine for its category. 74 73 89p 89p Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Oger Grand Cru Style: Brut NV. De Saint Gall Premier Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut NV. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Elegantly restrained, cool white fruit profile with chalky mineral tones. Nose: Stylishly creamy, floral and citrussy. Palate: Light yet intense. Explosively fruity oozing lemon, lime and white flowers. Palate: Elegantly vivacious and smooth textured with racy acidity. Ending: Appetising lemony bite at the very end. Ending: Long and suitably dosed. In a nutshell: Crisp and clean. In a nutshell: All about Chardonnay. Food pairing: Moules Marinière. Food pairing: Deep-fried Haddock and Mushy Peas. Final verdict: So much drive and vivacity. Final verdict: Textbook material. 76 75 89p Devaux Cuvée D Style: Brut NV. Colour: Bright lemon-gold. Nose: Fresh, exuberant and fruity with apple, lemon, apricot, pastry and honey. Palate: Zesty palate with plenty of fruit. Ending: Zingy lemon and lime finish. In a nutshell: Pristine and pleasurable. 89p Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie Style: Brut NV. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Very pure white fruit with lovely toasty notes, lemon, flowers and candied tones. Palate: Soft, mellow, creamy, plush yet fresh. Ending: Lovely long balanced length. In a nutshell: Essence of purity. Food pairing: Shellfish Bisque with Cream. Food pairing: Seared Seabass with Lemon and Herb Butter. Final verdict: Fine succulent fruitiness. Final verdict: Soft and velvety. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 93

78 77 89p Ruinart Rosé 89p Style: Rosé Brut NV. Krug Rosé Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut MV. Colour: Medium-deep cherry. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Nose: Expressive. Plush cherry fruit and youthful with a spicy edge. Nose: Strong oak-laden. Spicy and animally – intriguing. Palate: Velvety and full of fruit. Palate: Rich, voluptuous, velvety with a winey structure. Ending: Long, sweet and silky finish with a stylish tannic touch at the end. Ending: Endless with perfect harmony. In a nutshell: Nervy. In a nutshell: Muscular and well-built. Food pairing: Pan-fried Slip Soles with Spiced Brown Shrimp Butter. Food pairing: Duck a l'Orange. Final verdict: Soulful. Final verdict: Elegantly berried. 79 89p Joseph Perrier Cuvée Joséphine 2004 80 89p Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Style: Blanc de Noirs Brut NV. Nose: Stylishly waxy, raisin, apricot, baked apple, cinnamon and Christmas pudding. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Palate: Evolved and opened up substantially, yet still tight. Nose: Stylish, fragrant red berry, peach and apple with superb toastiness and spicy complexity. Ending: Long, focused but tight. Palate: Round, fleshy and concentrated. In a nutshell: Aroma far more developed than palate. Ending: Sweetly fruity and caressing. In a nutshell: Plush and generous Food pairing: Fillet of Halibut with Shellfish Raviolo and Shaved Truffle. Food pairing: Pata Negra. Final verdict: Tight as a fist. 89p Taittinger Brut Réserve 89p Ayala Brut Majeur Style: Brut NV. Style: Brut NV. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Bright lemony. Nose: Mild, cleanly fruity with soft toastiness lining the pure, ripe fruitiness. Nose: Sweet, fruity, youthful with peach and apple alongside a perfumy twist. Palate: Straight-forward, zingy and lively. Ending: Suitably balanced and long enough. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Final verdict: Full of delicious fruit. 82 81 94 Palmer & Co Blanc de Noirs Palate: Fresh, mellow, creamy palate with sophisticated mousse. Ending: Medium-long and suitably dosed. In a nutshell: An all-rounder. In a nutshell: Rather straight-forward but pleasurable. Food pairing: Cold-smoked Salmon and Green Asparagus. Food pairing: Confit of Ocean Trout with Celery and Apple Salad. Final verdict: Dances on the palate. Final verdict: Mellow and harmonious.

89p 89p Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut Taittinger Nocturne Style: Brut Nature NV. Style: Sec NV. Colour: Pale lemon-green. Colour: Pale lemon-green. Nose: Lovely pure white fruit with smoky tones and gunpowdery complexity. Nose: Clean and soft with floral perfumy character and candied nuances. Palate: Pristinely fruity and oozing coolness and freshness. Palate: Sweet and balanced. Pristine, succulent fruit. Ending: Zesty and nervy long dry finish. Ending: Long with fruitiness carrying on and on. In a nutshell: Beautifully reductive and sound. In a nutshell: Mellow and pleasurable. Food pairing: Gravad Lax. Food pairing: Strawberries and Cream. Final verdict: Purity. Final verdict: At ease. 85 86 89p 87 FINE Winter 2016 84 83 Pommery Grand Cru 2005 89p Roland Champion Carte Blanche Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Style: Brut Vintage. Style: Blanc de Blancs Brut NV. Colour: Glossy golden hued lemon. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Nose: Strong, expressive ripe fruit profile with spices, red fruits and plenty of evolution. Nose: A beautiful charred note to the freshness and pure white fruit. Palate: Fruity, overt and round with sugar coated ripeness and tropical fruit. Palate: Lean and fresh with lots of lemony floral fruit. Ending: Fine freshness and medium-long finish. Ending: Vibrant and long. In a nutshell: Open and ready to drink. In a nutshell: Appetising but comes with ease. Food pairing: Gratinated Green-lipped Mussels with Parmesan and Walnut Crust. Food pairing: Octopus Carpaccio, Spring Onion and Coriander. Final verdict: Plushness. Final verdict: Cheerful. 89p Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2007 88 89p Paul Bara Special Club 2005 Style: Prestige Cuvée Brut Vintage. Style: Brut Vintage. Colour: Pale lemon. Colour: Medium-deep lemon-gold. Nose: Soft and fruity with a slightly lifted toasty, leesy tone. Nose: Deep, expanding ripe red fruit with honeyed tones. Palate: Fresh and firm, invigorating and highly youthful. Medium-bodied and focused. Palate: Overt and generous with rounded, oily feel. Ending: Very dry ending with a lead pencil finish. Ending: Sufficient fruity length and wellbalanced. In a nutshell: Rather communicative but not yet fully integrated. In a nutshell: Fresh tingling palate. Food pairing: Seafood Platter. Food pairing: Sole with Mushrooms and Vongoles. Final verdict: Tight and young. Final verdict: Pleasurable and structured. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 95

89 89p Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2006 90 89p Style: Brut NV. Style: Prestige Cuvée Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Pale onion skin. Nose: Fresh, mild, easy-going berry fruitiness. Nose: Delicate, smoky, minerally. Flowers and stone fruit with some toast, fresh ripe fruit and yeasty complexity. Palate: Charming and instantly appealing. Voluptuous and caressing. Palate: Fresh and lively, linear and focused. Ending: Intensely fruity, neat and pure dry finish. Ending: Richness to the wine but a certain singularity at least at this stage. In a nutshell: Lovely mineral length. In a nutshell: Evolving. Food pairing: Monkfish and Tiger Prawn Masala with Pilaf. Food pairing: Sea-urchin Risotto with Smoked Caviar. Final verdict: Tightly knit and elegant. Final verdict: Rich and chewy. 91 92 88p 88p Deutz Rosé Brut Style: Rosé Brut NV. Colour: Pale pink. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Nose: Full of appealing fruit: apricot, orange blossom and pastry topped up with cool vegetal and chalky-mineral notes. Nose: Fresh and intense with pristine fruitiness, soft spiciness, charred notes and sweet candied tones. Palate: Succulent and smooth with lemony bite of acidity. Palate: Firm and voluptuous but comes with a lifting crispness and coolness. Ending: Fruity forward and pleasantly subdued. Ending: Carries on in a balanced, seamless fashion. In a nutshell: Fresh and fruit-packed. In a nutshell: Spicy red fruit style with oakdriven complexity. Food pairing: Hommard en Croûte. Final verdict: Pleasurable. 88p Doyard Clos de l'Abbaye Premier Cru 2010 Style: Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Vintage. 94 88p Collet 2006 Style: Brut Vintage. Nose: Sweet, soulful with punch. Charred notes, apple peel and spices sit slightly on the oxidative side. Colour: Glossy lemony with golden hues. Ending: Very dry and citric. In a nutshell: Butter and cream complexity. Food pairing: Sautéed Abalone, King Brown Mushrooms and Bottarga with Maltagliati Pasta. Final verdict: Highly individual. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Final verdict: Seriously rosé. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Palate: Linear and driven with lemony tartness carrying through. 96 Bollinger Rosé Style: Rosé Brut NV. Food pairing: Sautéed Razor Clams with Prosciutto and Sea Herbs. 93 Alfred Gratien Brut Nose: Super ripe spicy fruitiness and expressive. Palate: Softness and warmth. Well-built, clean, ripe, maturing fruitiness. Ending: Succulent with good length. In a nutshell: Muscular but comes with just enough freshness. Food pairing: Lobster Thermidor. Final verdict: Ready to be enjoyed.

FINE Winter 2016 95 96 88p Collet Esprit Couture 88p De Castelnau Réserve Brut Style: Brut NV. Style: Brut NV. Colour: Medium-deep lemon. Colour: Deep lemon-gold. Nose: Fruity, vanilla-coated with candied sweet fruitiness. Nose: Gentle soft yeast-laden. Lots of depth. Palate: Aged mellowness of ample fruitiness. Palate: Round and extremely fresh, pure and plush. Ending: Long and smooth. In a nutshell: Generous and instantly impressive. Ending: Fine fruity and balanced length. In a nutshell: Lovely ageing complexity. Food pairing: Quiche Lorraine. Food pairing: Pan-fried Red Snapper with Lemon Butter. Final verdict: Style above all. Final verdict: Comes with benefits of age. 97 98 88p 88p Georges Cartier Première Cuvée Style: Brut NV. Blondel Premier Cru Cuvée Prestige Style: Brut NV. Colour: Medium-deep lemon-hued. Colour: Bright lemon. Nose: Fresh, lemony chalky mineral white fruit, apple, pear and summer meadow. Nose: Rich, evolving, yeast laden with lots of apple. Palate: Fluffy with smooth mousse and lovely vibrancy. Palate: Sharp and edgy with fine energy and tension. Ending: Fresh and long, fruit-forward finish. Ending: Medium-long with enough fruit. In a nutshell: Easy to like. In a nutshell: Yeast-complexed. Food pairing: Steamed Spanner Crab with Black Radish. Food pairing: Fried Calamaris with Romesco. Final verdict: Friendly style. Final verdict: Vibrant and fresh. 99 100 88p Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Rosé Style: Rosé Brut NV. Colour: Medium-deep peachy. Nose: Elegant, fresh, delicate with mild strawberry and floral character. Palate: Light-weight, very pure and clean. 88p Pol Roger Rosé 2008 Style: Rosé Brut Vintage. Colour: Medium-deep cherry. Nose: Full, richly fruity with vanilla, spice and fresh red berries, notaby cherry toned. Palate: Strong, round, mouth-filling. Ending: Medium-long and full of fruit. Ending: Carries on and on with a sweet tone at the finish. In a nutshell: Appetising and refreshing. In a nutshell: Lovely energy. Food pairing: Miso Blackened Salmon with Seared Pak Choi and Pickled Ginger. Final verdict: Charmer. Food pairing: Coquilles St-Jacques. Final verdict: Still young but loads of potential. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 97

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Perlage F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 3 The Secret of Everlasting Champagne: Text: Pekka Nuikki Most of us enjoy champagne – its bubbles, its character and its taste. Its positive associations with celebrations of special occasions and successes does nothing to lessen its desirability, although it does make the threshold higher for opening a bottle. Usually, a champagne cork is popped only for a special reason, it is not done just for its excellent taste but for the occasion. The openability of champagne is also significantly reduced by the fact that, just as when opening the bottle you can literally hear and feel the liveliness of the drink, you simultaneously realise that it is already passing and dying out. Champagne loses its best qualities very quickly – its structure and nature fade soon. A glass of champagne is one of my favourite pleasures. This is why I often favour demi bottles: one wouldn’t want to open a bottle just for one glass, as the rest will no longer be enjoyable very soon. I am not alone with my problem; it is an annoyance for many people, not least restaurateurs. But although the dream of eternal life is thus far unattainable for us humans, it no longer is for champagne. Its secret has been divined – the Perlage system. It doesn’t just keep champagne artificially alive overnight, but gives it an “everlasting” life. The secret to the sparkling nature of champagne are its millions of bubbles. They endow champagne with its most important, refined quality. The bubbles release quickly from an open bottle, gradually depriving the drink of its signs of life. The Perlage System acts quickly and easily to prevent this from happening. The process is simple: an opened bottle of champagne is locked into a bottle-shaped safety enclosure, the bottom of which is removable via a quickrelease “twist break”. A threaded cap on the top of the enclosure is tightened to create a seal against the lip of the bottle. High-pressure carbon dioxide from a refillable gas cylinder with a regulator is then injected through a one-way valve in the cap, pressurising the headspace of the bottle. From experience, I can tell you that this process only takes about fifteen seconds. This is not the first time that I have tried to find a solution to champagne’s longevity problem. Many solutions have been presented, from placing a silver spoon at the mouth of the bottle to the spring-loaded pressure cap but so far this has been the most effective. Perlage is not perfect, but it is the most effective of the solutions currently on the market, and easiest to use, as well as being safe, because the repressurised bottle is protected by a transparent foil. Perlage is most effective on young vintage champagnes, and least on the ordinary, lowpriced sparkling wines. The quality of a wine is always a factor in its durability, and this is also true of sparkling wines. If the wine is modest in character, it will lose what few properties it has in one day. Naturally, Perlage ensures that it still sparkles after that time, but the bubbles are, in a way, empty. However, the best vintage champagnes, such as Krug, Dom Pérignon and Cristal, can retain a large part of their properties for up to a week. Perlage will also significantly increase the life of more mature vintage champagnes that have already lost some of their bubbles, from a few hours up to a few days. Although the Perlage System is effective, it cannot completely stop the lethal effect of oxygen on wine and the eventual oxidisation of the drink. But, depending on how often the bottle to be is opened, Perlage can keep the champagne alive from two days up to two weeks. In theory, if a bottle is only opened once, it will keep “forever” inside its “time capsule”. But, as we all know, champagne is at its best enjoyed, not preserved. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 99

The Best Indian Wines 2012 Text: Madhumita Bhattacharyya & Juha Lihtonen Photos: Juha Lihtonen & MERI KUKKAVAARA 100 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Sp r ing 20 12 I t was the last hurrah of spring when a group of wine professionals gathered under the watchful eye of a banyan tree for a grand Indian wine tasting. There are harder ways to spend a lovely afternoon than in the company of wine lovers, on the balcony of the graceful residence of the Portuguese Ambassador to India, Jorge Roza de Oliveira, in New Delhi. But the task at hand was an important and delicate one, charged with equal measures of expectation and apprehension. For the editors of FINE – the world’s leading fine wine magazines – it was time to set the benchmark ranking for Indian wines. FINE Wine & Champagne India had invited ten wine professionals from Europe and India to participate in this grand tasting. The five Europeans approached the exercise with a blank palate, having seldom, if ever, tried Indian wines. The Indian contingent was slightly less optimistic, having had a mixed experiences with Indian wines in the past. Every major winery in India was invited by FINE Wine & Champagne India's publisher, Rajiv Singhal to participate in the tasting with their wines. Requests were made for the true varietals – Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon – and one winery choice option to cover the blends. 12 major wineries (one from Karnataka and, all the others from Indian wine country, Nashik) responded to the invitation to this tasting and sent 54 wines. It was going to be a monster of a tasting. The first matter of business involved a question of principle: should these wines, the product of a young industry in a country without a long tradition of making wine, be compared on the same scale as wines from evolved regions which have had FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 101

time to perfect their craft? And should the intended consumer be kept in mind in a scenario where at least some wineries were bound to be making wines to suit the preferences of a relatively immature market? While a few voices did favour a more lenient approach, the majority view was that the wines had to be appraised at an objective level, on the merits of each effort, without making significant allowances for ground realities. This, it was agreed, would be of greater use both to the industry, which is short of this kind of constructive criticism, and to the wine drinker in India. If it was necessary to be cruel to be kind, then so be it. Juha Lihtonen's Overview categories according to my experiences of sparkling roses: on one side you had wines that were unbalanced, over-sulphured or coarse, while the other consisted of lean, delicate and neutral offerings. “It rarely happens that I get to sit in a wine tasting where I have no expectations whatsoever from the wines that are poured into my glasses. Neither is it often that I get to taste wines in such beautiful surroundings, so I was thrilled to be involved in this unique and exclusive event. Sadly, the five-hour tasting turned out to be less than fascinating, as majority of the wines scored under 80 points, with none achieving anything higher than 86. The tasting was organised and executed as blind. The ground rules for scoring were established according to the FINE Magazines’ international standards on the 100-point scale. The scores of FINE’s editors were counted in the final ranking and 80 was set as par for the course, only those wines which scored more than 79 points were published. The first flight of the two sparkling roses reflected the general level of wines that we tasted. The Sula Rosé Brut was clumsy, unbalanced and austere, possibly due to a heavy dose of sulphur, while the Zampa Soirée Rose Brut (83p) stood out as lively and delicate but very modest and neutral. The next 50-plus wines on next nine flights could have been split between the two 102 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA As we left the round table on the Ambassador's balcony gridlocked with wine glasses, foil wrapped numbered bottles and the so-needed crachoirs, there was no joy in having endured this marathon. We were sorely disappointed to find so few wines that could hold up to scrutiny against an international yardstick, even though some were heartened that there were at least a few wines that they could enjoy. Almost two-thirds of the wines ended up under 80 points and regrettably, for this reason alone, were not included in this magazine. According to the results, the Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz wines performed best, while the Chardonnays and Merlots were nothing to write home about. No matter how much the Indian wine producers would talk about their terroir, I felt it was missing from most of the wines. This was one of the main reasons why the wines did not gain higher scores. It must be said, however, that the best wines did show signs of good quality winemaking, though they lacked soul. However, with this very objective blind tasting, FINE Wine & Champagne India could set a benchmark for Indian wines. From now on, while we balance bouquets and brickbats, we will be monitoring the evolution of Indian wines with an annual tasting and ranking, which will be run similar to this year’s event. We would also look forward to creating an opportunity and on-going process for the wineries to have the quality of their wines assessed in an independent, objective manner by the world’s leading fine wine professionals.” >

F I N E Sp r ing 20 12 Tasting Notes - Top 18 86p Good Earth Brio Shiraz Reserve 2009 Appearance: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, jammed, liquorice, spicy Palate Rich, full-bodied, jammy, bramble, floral, fresh and vivid Aftertaste: Energetic, full of life, moderately long In a nutshell: A seductive soul Food pairing: Just by itself 84p York Chenin Blanc 2009 Appearance: Light, bright strawyellow Nose: Closed, one-dimensional, mineral Palate: Dry, crisp, moderately low acidity, sulphuric Aftertaste: Moderately short, mineral In a nutshell: “Iodine wine” Food pairing: Amritsari fish 83p Zampa Soirée Brut Rosé Variety: Syrah Appearance: Light, rose Nose: Delicate, simple, red berries Palate: Off-dry, light, delicate, fresh Aftertaste: Short, balanced, nice In a nutshell: A cute bubbly Food pairing: Aperitif 85p Zampa Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Appearance: Bright, watery Nose: Light, fresh, passion fruit, nettles Palate: Dry, fresh, tartaric Aftertaste: Moderately short In a nutshell: Lean and fresh Food pairing: Tandoori Prawn 84p Grover Vineyards Sante Shiraz 2009 Appearance: Moderately deep, purple Nose: Elegant, floral, violets, black fruits Palate: Light-bodied, vivid, fresh, delightful style Aftertaste: Short, one-dimensional In a nutshell: Simple but delightful Food pairing: Crab in lemon butter garlic sauce 83p Grover Vineyards Art Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Appearance: Bright, medium-intense yellow Nose: Rich, buttery, reserved Palate: Off-dry, moderate acidity, overly-ripe honeyed fruit Aftertaste: Medium length, quite rich In a nutshell: A voluptuous wine that is willing to impress Food pairing: Prawn curry FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 103

Tasting Notes - Top 18 83p York Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Appearance: Bright, light, watery Nose: Ripe, tropical, floral, grassy Palate: Dry, crisp, perfumey, floral Aftertaste: Shortish, delicate, floral In a nutshell: A wine that flirts Food pairing: Murgh malai kebab 83p Good Earth Basso Concerto Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009 Appearance: Moderately deep, ruby Nose: Ripe black fruits, toastiness, spicy pepper Palate: Medium-bodied, intense, powdery tannins, vivid acidity, fresh, nice cassis Aftertaste: Medium-long, spicy In a nutshell: Classic cabernet sauvignon style Food pairing: Makai paneer ka salan 82p Sula Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Appearance: Bright, watery Nose: Fresh, green leaves, grassy Palate: Dry, fresh, mellow, balanced Aftertaste: Moderately short, fresh, watery In a nutshell: A school sample of a grassy sauvignon blanc Food pairing: Reshmi kebab 104 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 83p Four Seasons Barrique Collection Shiraz 2009 Appearance: Dark, deep, purple Nose: Intense, jammy, black fruit, vanilla, toasty Palate: Medium-bodied, intense, ripe black fruit, refined tannins, vivid acidity Aftertaste: Medium length, dark chocolate In a nutshell: Bow to the sophisticated style of shiraz Food pairing: Guchchi khumb (morel) 83p Zampa Syrah 2010 Appearance: Deep, opaque, ruby Nose Smoky, spicy, jammy black fruit Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, firm tannins, ripe black fruit, spicy Aftertaste: Moderately long, toasty In a nutshell: Simple, pleasing syrah Food pairing: Raan 82p Fratelli Chenin Blanc 2011 Appearance: Medium-intense, strawyellow Nose: Intense, ripe tropical fruits, floral, citrus Palate: Dry, firm, intense fruit, good structure, refined, rich Aftertaste: Medium-long, fruity, nice In a nutshell: A sound wine Food pairing: Hare matar ki tikki (green pea)

Grover Vineyards Art Collection Viognier 2010 Appearance: Intense, yellow Nose: Pronounced, mineral, tropical fruit, a touch of toastiness Palate: Off-dry, oily, sweet tropical fruit, buttery Aftertaste: Short, rounded by alcohol In a nutshell: A solid, simple viognier Food pairing: Fried arbi (yam) 82p Fratelli Sette Appearance: Deep, ruby Nose: Closed, black fruits, cassis Palate: Medium-bodied, tannic, ripe black fruits, a bit austere Aftertaste: Medium length, stalky In a nutshell: A wine with some arrogance Food pairing: Kacche ghosht ki biryani (lamb) 82p Nine Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Appearance: Moderately deep, ruby to purple Nose: Spicy, blackcurrants, rubber, smoke, violet Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid acidity, bell pepper, spicy, a bit green Aftertaste: Moderately short, leafy In a nutshell: Fresh and spicy Food pairing: Baingan bharwan (aubergine) 82p Sula Chenin Blanc 2011 Appearance: Bright, watery Nose: Smoky, oyster shells, a touch of sulphur Palate: Off-dry, crisp, vivid fruit, intense, lean Aftertaste: Medium-long, lively, happy In a nutshell: A cheerful wine Food pairing: Tandoori chicken 82p F I N E Sp r ing 20 12 82p Four Seasons Barrique Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Appearance: Deep, purple Nose: Pronounced, Bourbonlike, toasty, jammy black fruit Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, greenish, gentle tannins, mineral touch Aftertaste: Medium length, mineral, lean In a nutshell: A cool style Food pairing: Bhuna ghosht (lamb) 81p Aryaa Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Appearance: Bright, medium-intense yellow Nose: Rich, intense, honeyed Palate: Dry, oily, concentrated, spicy, oaky Aftertaste: Refined, yet austere In a nutshell: White bordeaux in mind Food pairing: Masala dosa with tomato chutney Ten years is a fairly long time and much water has flown under the ‘Indian Wine’ bridge since this benchmark tasting that FINE did in Spring 2012. Today, we would not be able to get many of these bottles to put together the same spread and to evaluate the evolution over time. Some wineries are going strong, some wineries have closed operation, some have new ownership, some are merged entities, some don’t make the labels they presented any more. Consider this a record of what was, rather than what is. Editor. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 105

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FINE Winter 2015 A Companion to Indian Wine The Wines of India, a Concise Guide was published in Great Britain in late 2015 by The Press Publishing Limited. The Hungarian author, Peter Csizmadia-Honigh, received the 2014 award from the trustees of The Geoffrey Roberts Trust and Vintners’ Company, to publish a fully illustrated and comprehensive guide about Indian wines. According to Peter, “with 30 years of modern wine-making history and over 50 wineries, it is indeed time to start to tell the story of Indian wine and put it on the map”. With an “infinite passion and enthusiasm for Indian wine”, Peter took the ambitious responsibility to taste, review and evaluate ‘all’ the wines produced in India. He has profiled 49 wineries covering the biggest producers to the smaller ones and the lesser known (as indeed, some of the wineries like Ambi Vineyards in Ratlam and Cumbum Valley Winery in Theni are). Hungarian photographer Gábor Nagy’s specially commissioned the-quirkiness-of-India-amazes-me photographs reflect the author’s travels covering the entire breadth and depth of the entire of the contemporary Indian wine scene. The book is intended for wine consumers and wine professionals, both in India and overseas. Peter hopes it will be the “authoritative compass and indispensible companion to guide wine-lovers in their vinous adventures in India”. This 451 page book is “dedicated to the wonderful work of all winery owners and their staff. It celebrates their passion for crafting amazing wines and developing India into the most exciting wine producing country of Asia”. Peter traces the roots of the still-nascent wine industry in India to Bosca, the Indo-Italian venture near Hyderabad in 1966, and underlines the efforts of Shyamrao Chowgule and Kanwal Grover, who were able to overcome the challenges to produce wines on Indian soil. Chowgule’s Chateau Indage launched the Indian sparkling wine “Omar Khayyam” (Champagne Piper Heidsieck provided technical consultancy) in London in 1986, and this caught the world’s attention about the wine making in India. India’s geographic location does not conform to the conventionally established world “wine zones”. In a rather lengthy (but detailed) chapter on Subtropical Winegrowing: Viticulture & Winemaking in India, Peter lends perspective to the suitability of India’s ‘terroir’ to vines and wines. In another chapter on Grape varieties, Peter brings to fore the somewhat controversial capacity-boosting Bangalore Blue, Bangalore Purple and Thomson Seedless varieties, that are widely used but most wineries swear against. Peter is candid that quality is not an objective absolute and there is intense subjectivity and relativity in the host of factors – the wine, the location, the infrastructure, the people and the taster – that influence a wine rating. He puts his neck out and introduces a Classification System based on a combination of origin and terroir, intrinsic wine quality, quality of the wine portfolio, reliability of quality, stylistic and philosophical integrity. All the profiled wineries are classified, even if he seems to have played safe by putting most of the active ones under 4 stars. Juxtaposed against “Peter’s Picks” (recommended wines that either excel or he finds enjoyable), the classification exposes the problems that the landscape is fraught with. Peter is optimistic. “Winemakers have been challenged in every possible way, but they have proved their resilience. The wine business is an intricate art and science in India. The future wine in India is bright.” Peter Csizmadia-Honigh has not acknowledged FINE Wine & Champagne India – the first and only wine magazine in India that is officially recognised by the Government of India. He has also, sadly, ignored the pioneering contributions made by a very small group of individuals, who laid the first foundations of wine culture in India in the nineties. However, the editors of FINE share Peter’s optimism! FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 107

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FINE Winter 2019 The Cradle of Wine W ith a history of over 8,000 vintages and accomplished records of viticulture and vinification, Georgia is the oldest winemaking nation in the world. Folklore has it that the Georgian alphabet takes the shape of the curly offshoots of the vines. The western words vin, vino, wine could possibly be derived from the Georgian word, gvino. In Georgia, wine is the oldest tradition, is ingrained in local culture, is the holy of holies... FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 109

R e s e a rc h e r s a n d historians have found evidence of species of grape seed in clay vessels that point to the existence of local vitis vinifera cultivars that can be back traced to locations in Georgia to as far back as 6000 B.C. The ancient farming practices to tame and raise the first vines, that would be known as viticulture today, have fascinated many who travelled on the fabled “Silk Route” and find mention in legends and manuscripts from the time. Modern day Georgia is the intersection of history and culture at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, and this is where wine was born! The southern slopes of the Caucuses near the Black Sea offer a very favourable micro-climate and terrain that has facilitated the numerous grape varietals that are domiciled here – over 500 local origin indigenous varietals are grown across ten distinct wine-growing regions in Georgia. Saperavi is the most abundant red grape while Rkatsiteli, Chinuri and Mtsvane are the popular white grapes. Historically, a large clay vessel decorated with ornamental patterns of grape bunches called a Qvevri was buried underground to maintain constant temperature. And this heritage is still drawn upon by the winemakers to ferment and mature the grape juice to give a very special amber pantone and distinct flavour profiles with integrated tannins. In 2013, “Qvevri Winemaking” was 110 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA recognised by UNESCO in its list of “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”. “Origin Lives” is the focus of the international campaign of the Wines of Georgia. Progressing through history, wine growing and wine making techniques have been preserved – these are being sustained and still being used by the few thousands of family wineries that work on the 50,000 hectares of vine yards. Internationally trained Georgian winemakers are juxtaposing modern techniques on age-old winemaking practices, the diversity in indigenous grapes available and their own enduring spirit to offer an unparalleled range of tastes: some pioneering, some familiar, and some nearly impossible to describe. Family traditions are deep – both in wine making and wine drinking. The Ambassador of Georgia to India, H.E. Archil Dzuliashvili shared, “Wine is national pride in my country. Every Georgian has had a taste of their grandfather’s wine. Almost everyone grows their own vines, and many – like me – produce their own wines at home. Inspite of the many threats to our country, we have the distinction of the world’s longest unbroken tradition of winemaking”. H.E. Archil was extremely kind to open his wine cellars for FINE Magazines to cohost the firstever tasting of Georgian wines in New Delhi. A representative range of ver y unique and distinct wines of Georgia were shared with the wine trade.

Georgian Wine Tasting Notes Marani Sachino “Mtsvane” 2017 Region: Kakheti Appellation: Napareuli Style: White Dry Varietal: Mtsvane, Rkatsiteli Appearance: Deep Amber Nose: Aromas of tropical fruits. Distinct litchis. Palate: Very fresh. Mouth-watering. Finish: Bone dry. Medium to long. Alcohol: 13.5% Inside Information: Established in 2016, Marani Sachino is a family-owned boutique winery that prides itself on its strong heritage of winemaking traditions that follow the ancient practices in Georgia. The knowledge and experience passed down from generation to generation is the inspiration to passionately craft natural, premium quality wines. They propose a “collection of masterpieces” to inspire wine enthusiasts from around the world. Tbilvino “Tsinandali” 2015 Region: Kakheti Appellation: Tsinandali Style: Dry White Varietal: Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane Appearance: Light straw yellow Nose: Aromas of citrus stone-fruit and quince. Palate: White flowers on centre-stage, refreshing acidity and dense texture. Finish: Lasting combination of oak and vanilla. Alcohol: 12.5% Inside Information: First made in 1999 by an Australian wine maker from vineyards that are 300-760 meters above sea level. Carefully balancing the ancient traditions of winemaking with the quest to integrate new technologies – the winemakers create much awarded wines with amazing creativity, commitment, strict quality control, professionalism, and complete dedication. “This is the body of experience gained through the years… we put our soul into making our wines”. FINE Winter 2019 ღვინის შეფასების ბარათი Tinatin “Chinuri” 2018 Region: Kartli Style: Unfiltered Dry White Varietal: Chinuri Appearance: Bright medium yellow Nose: Classic flowery aromas Palate: Gentle and fresh. Moderate acidity. Finish: Medium. Very pleasant. Alcohol: 12% Inside Information: Tinatin, the winemaker, was inspired to create her own line at the Kabistoni Wine School. While learning winemaking in great detail, she appreciated the importance of labour and love in making an excellent wine. Her subtle and delicate wines are bottled with the etiquette of a dancing lady. This wine is organic and estatebottled with a painting by Anna Chikovani on the label. Only hand-selected premium grapes from vines that are resistant to phyloxera and other fungus’ are used to make this wine. Besini Rose 2017 Region: Kakheti Style: Rose Semi-Dry Varietal: Merlot Appearance: Salmon pink Nose: Ripe red berries and subtle aromas of flint Palate: Very flavourful. Watermelon, peach, grapefruit and rose. Finish: Balanced acidity. Light and sweet. Alcohol: 12.5% Inside Information: A very easy drinking wine that could be perfect for the gruelling Indian summer. The winemaker not only follows the ancient traditions of winemaking, but carefully combines them with modern technologies. They control every stage of winemaking beginning with vine plants from our nursery until the final stage of bottling. Classical vinification with 24-hour maceration in stainless steel. The word “Bessini” in Georgia was used to describe sacrificial wine. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 111

ღვინის შეფასების ბარათი Madamwine “Savardo” Rose Region: Kakheti Style: Rose Semi-Dry Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano, Syrah Appearance: Light pink Nose: Aromas of pomegranate with peach. Palate: Elegant and silky with abundant rose. Finish: Well-rounded and syrupy. Alcohol: 11% Residual Sugar: 9-12 grams/ litre Inside Information: Founded in 2010, Madam Wine is one of the first women winemaking companies in Georgia creates wine from the oldest traditional Georgian grape varieties. An attempt to play out the similarities between the wine and the woman – playfulness, fun, severity, mysteriousness… For this cheerful wine, the grapes are hand-picked. Soft de-stemming and crushing is followed by controlled fermentation at 18°C in stainless steel. Upon reaching the optimum sugar and acidity balance the fermentation is arrested by cooling to retain natural sweetness and freshness of the wine. Kakhuri Gvinis Marani “Akhasheni” 2015 Region: Kakheti Appellation: Akhasheni Style: Red Semi-Sweet Varietal: Saperavi Appearance: Dark pomegranate Nose: Rich bouquet of mature fruits Palate: Velvety and chocolatey Finish: Harmonious and lasting Alcohol: 12.5% Inside Information: Located in the Kakheti region in eastern Georgia, the winery has sweeping views on the Caucasus Mountains with the Alazani River Valley in the north. Established 9 years ago, the company was built on the foundation of tradition, consistency, dedication and professionalism – all of which have been passed down from the founders’ forefathers. Vineyards are in the Tsinandali, Teliani, Akhasheni, Mukuzani, Manavi, and Gurjaani micro zones. The wines have received numerous international accolades for their quality. 112 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Friends’ Cellar “Saperavi” 2014 Region: Kakheti Appellation: Kindzmarauli Style: Red Dry Varietal: Saperavi Appearance: Deep rich ruby Nose: Black fruit with pepper and some vanilla. Palate: Jammy. Very rich and powerful with spicy and oaky undertones. Finish: Smooth tannins. Light and flavourful. Alcohol: 13% Inside Information: In 2009, Friend’s Cellar was founded as an endeavour of companions from 11 countries around the world, united in their appreciation for Georgian wine. Their own vineyards that were planted in 2001 yield about 7,000 kg per hectare each vintage. The delicate grapes are carefully handpicked in the harvest using a selective method and small wooden baskets with a capacity of 7-8 kg are used for the transportation to the winery. At the Nelkarisi winery, tours through the ancient city, workshops on Georgian cuisine, and wine tasting sessions are offered. Shilda Winery “Kindzmarauli” 2017 Region: Kakheti Appellation: Kindzmarauli Varietal: Saperavi Style: Red Semi-Sweet Appearance: Deep purple Nose: Well-defined bouquet of wild berries and cherries Palate: Exotic fruity flavour and balanced acidity Finish: Lingering minerality Alcohol: 12% Residual Sugar: 35 grams/ litre Inside Information: The Shilda winery was founded in 2015 by Mikhail and Natia Chkhartishvili drawing on the history of winemaking in the village that dates back many centuries. The founders’ love and respect for wine, which they thought of as “divine” drink, motivated them to invest in the most modern Italian and French equipment to create wines that they showcased unashamedly in international markets – and were rewarded with a high level of acceptance.

Katewine “Rkatsiteli” 2017 Region: Kakheti Style: Qvevri White Dry Varietal: Rkatsiteli Appearance: Golden orangy yellow Nose: Ripe yellow fruit and quince with hints of petroleum. Palate: Mouthful of flavours. Buttery. Finish: Subtle and gentle on the senses Alcohol: 13.5% Inside Information: A lot of attention has been given to the packaging. A very interesting antique label with hand-written details is placed on the bottle and wax seals the cork. Ketevan Aladashvili is a young winemaker who studied wine technology at the University of Tblisi. She followed her passion for wine and decided to challenge the idea that wine making is reserved only for the men, despite the difficulties encountered. Katewine, her company, produces only Qvevri wines. And is well awarded at international competitions. Twins Wine Cellar “Kisi” Folio FINE Winter 2019 Georgian Wine Tasting Notes Region: Kakheti Appellation: Napareuli Style: Qvevri White Dry Varietal: Kisi Appearance: Dark straw Nose: Citrus tropical fruits Palate: Harmonious. Ripe mango and hints of orange. Finish: Robust Alcohol: 12% Inside Information: Established by the Gamtkitsulashvilis brothers, Gia and Gela. The family's ancient wine cellar that could date back to the 19th century was renovated into a lovely 12 room hotel in Napareuli with stunning views and a restaurant, Qvevri Mze that offers authentic north-east Georgian cuisine. This village is on the left bank of the river Alazani and boasts of 16th and 17th century ruins. The Kisi grape is a rare species of local Georgian grape, which was not common in the Soviet era. Twin Cellars works with 107 Qvevris, each with a capacity of 4 tonnes. Schuchmann Vinoterra “Saperavi” 2016 Demi’s Marani “Tavkveri” 2017 Region: Kartli Style: Qvevri Rose Dry Varietal: Tavkveri Appearance: Darkish rose Nose: Light floral Palate: Cranberry and hibiscus Finish: Breathtaking and harmonious Alcohol: 11% Inside Information: The Tavkveri grape produces medium to large conical bunches of large, juicy berries. It is a high-yielding variety, although this depends on the pollination level. The winery, Chateau Demi, allows visitors to take in the refreshing beauty of the green and clean environment and a rustic rural experience of tasting authentic food and natural wines that respects the local Georgian traditions – all within a half hour drive from Tbilisi. Region: Kakheti Style: Qvevri Red Varietal: Saperavi Appearance: Very deep ruby Nose: Ripe cherry, coffee, tobacco, dark fruits. Palate: Smooth and harmonious mix of black fruits, black pepper, black currants with silky tannins. Finish: Intense and long Alcohol: 13% Inside Information: An unfiltered natural wine made in a Qvevri, large clay jars buried underground for fermentation, maceration and ageing. After open air fermentation and masceration, the wine was racked in an airtight Qvevri and aged for 6 months with skin contact. This vintage did not see any oak barrels. Winemaker Gogi Dakishvili founded Vinoterra which has become Georgia's largest Qvevri wine producer. An ancient tradition from about 80 centuries ago has been revived as has the Georgian wine industry. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 113

FOR GOODNESS... Photo: © Japan National Tourism Organisation SAKE! 114 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017 Text: LARA VICTORIA F or most of us, our earliest memories of sake may involve a sharply stinging, highly alcoholic drink that was served alongside a roll of sushi at an izakaya partitioned up like a bento box. This sake, may likely have been served warm too and the experience may have indelibly been imprinted to memory (albeit, unpleasantly). Now who could blame you, if you resisted the thought of re-visiting that experience? … however, I am here to urge you to reconsider that. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 115

You see, sake has travelled history from its genesis in China around 4000 B.C. to its present flourish in Japan since 300 B.C. While dates might be argued upon, the general consensus seems to rest around that time, because it was sometime then that wet rice cultivation also began in Japan. Rice became the staple for food and not surprisingly, was the key ingredient in producing a local alcoholic beverage. Since those days of yore, its style has evolved, interchanging from sweeter expressions to drier ones and back and forth. In the colder months, sake was indeed served warm to heat up one’s “body and soul”. Of course, the lack of refrigeration in those days meant that in warmer weather, sake was simply served at room temperature or cooled in water that melted down from the snow on the mountains. Photos: © Tokubee Masuda 116 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA It was only after World War II that the sophisticated and efficient ricepolishing machine, as we know it today, was created. The ability to polish rice closer to the grain’s core led to the creation of Ginjo style of sakes, which seem to favour cooler serving temperatures. Not only could these delicate, refined and elegant sakes be produced now, but thanks to mechanization, they could be produced in large volumes. While the world reveled in the evolution of wines, not much was known of this exquisite libation of Japan. Those who looked at sake as nothing more than a travel token of Japan, brought in the lesser, commercial versions of sake and introduced them as a novelty drink for thematic Japanese meals. It seems, sake merely served as a westernized reference to the world’s most eastern country, instead of being appreciated for what it really was. Small Japanese restaurants opened up across the world, and most poured what we would call commercialized versions of sake alongside their popular offerings of sushi. Needless to say, sake was not given the attention it deserved or that wine enjoyed. Instead, it only got buried further away from the CITIES OFof THEexcellence WORLD recognized mark it truly deserved. TOKYO It is believed that sake is enjoyed by gods, and even today, some offer it to the deities first, during festivities before consuming it themselves.

FINE Winter 2017 In Japan, however, sake-making continued to grow more precise. Science uncovered better and more efficient methods to improve on the final product. Ultimately, technology and human creativity enjoyed its union in producing some of the best sake this world had ever known. Something this good, however, could no longer stay hidden. Towards the latter part of the last century, Japan seemed a lot more relaxed in terms of its international engagement and eventually, the world started to murmur about sake! Today, its stately and elegant versions are no strangers to culinary meccas all over the world. Small, über chic dining establishments and many a Michelin star restaurant carry impressive sake lists to complement their wine offerings. It would be most incredible to note is that sake is not restricted to sushi or Japanese food alone. It complements international cuisines like Persian, Italian, Malaysian or Moroccan fare just as well as English pub grub. In fact, the versatility and adaptability of sake makes it the ideal companion to the varied expressions of Indian cuisine. From dosas to daal makhani, sake supports the Indian palate with Japanese precision! Another noteworthy benefit that sake scores, is that it does not contain sulfites. Those who cringe about the inclusion of sulphur in wines will find this a redeeming option. What’s more …being rice based, it is even gluten-free! It’s time to step out and experience the refinement of sake as we are privileged to know now. It will shatter your apprehensive memory of those alcohol-forward harsh offerings. Shying away from the sakes of today is simply denying yourself the right to experience the best of contemporary gastronomy. Now why would you want to do that? So, here’s a call out to all of you of good taste…extend your repertoire with sake. Trust me. You’ll wonder what took you so long! The first historical recording of sake was in the legend of Kojiki, the oldest Japanese chronicle, published in the year 712. The legend goes that an evil eight headed dragon attacked Shimane village (considered the birth-place of sake) year after year, each time devouring a girl. But Susano-o, the Shinto god of sea and storms, came up with a rather ingenious solution to stop the dragon – he asked the villagers to prepare a strong sake, filled eight cups with sake and waited for the dragon. The dragon arrived for his prey, but drunk from the cups and fell asleep… and Susano-o slayed the dragon to save the village. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 117

UNDERSTANDING SAKE Sake is basically made of 4 ingredients: rice, kōji (a rice mould), yeast and water. Since rice takes centre stage here, the first key to identifying a particular sake style, is understanding its seimaibuai (the polishing ratio of the rice). It is indicated as a percentage – 50%, 60%, 70%... and so on. A sake label carries a number, which indicates the percentage of the grain remaining after polishing. For example, a polishing ratio of 60% means that each grain of rice, used to produce that sake, had only 60% of it remaining, or 40% of that grain had been polished or milled away. Photo: © Japan National Tourism Organisation Now, why is this important? It is, because the outer surface of the grain contains minerals, fatty acids 118 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA and proteins. These could develop off-flavours in the resulting sake that is produced. Therefore, the closer the grain is polished to its starchy core, called shinpaku (which expresses the purest qualities of the grain), the more elegant its expression tends to be. Another important term to understand and keep in mind is “Junmai”. Remember those 4 ingredients that make sake? Well, there is a 5th “optional” ingredient: brewer’s alcohol. This is distilled alcohol that brewers can add to sake to enhance its aromatics or to produce a particular style. A sake with no added distilled alcohol is called “Junmai” which means “pure rice”. SERVING SAKE Traditionally, sake would be poured into a ceramic decanter called a tokkuri. You do not, however, need any fancy apparatus to enjoy sake perfectly. If you wish to enjoy your sake warm, simply place the tokkuri in a glass or even place the bottle itself in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes and that will suffice. As for serving glasses, while the traditional ochoko keeps things authentic, your classic wine glass has proven to offer the best tasting experience!

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STYLES OF SAKE Photo: © Lara Victoria In Japanese, sake actually means alcoholic beverages in general and the particular drink sake is better known as Nihon-shu 日本 酒, which has been designated a Geographical Indication since Christmas Day, 2015. Futshushu 普通酒 At the bottom of the sake style pyramid is this mass-produced quaffer. It has a polishing ratio of up to 80% or higher, which means only 20% or less of each grain would be polished away. Besides distilled alcohol, the addition of other flavours are permitted in this style. While it may not be the highest quality level of sake, it still serves as a delightful companion to a 'take-out' meal. 120 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Futshushu Honjozo 本醸造 This style has a polishing ratio of at least 70%. In other words, to qualify as a Honjozo, at least 30% of each grain must be polished away. These sakes tend to have higher acidity and umami characteristics making it a great match for rich, fried foods. Honjozo sake can be served at room temperature or warmer (up to 55°C). Honjozo

FINE Winter 2017 Junmai Ginjo Photos: © Lara Victoria Junmai 純 米 This is actually a Honjozo, but without the addition of distilled alcohol. Junmai sake is generally full-bodied, rich in umami, with notes of cereal or grain, fennel, fenugreek or other spices. This is a great choice alongside pastas with umami-rich tomato sauces, or earthy mushrooms. This too, can be served at room temperature or warmer (up to 55°C). Ginjo 吟 醸 A Ginjo has a polishing ratio of 60% or higher, meaning that at least 40% of each grain must be polished away. Ginjo sakes are essentially the gateway to refinement in taste. Fruit expressions with herbaceous notes lead the way here, making them great companions to aromatic dishes of South Asian cuisine. Serve chilled or if preferred warm, try to stay under 40°C. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 121

Junmai Ginjo Junmai Ginjo 純 米吟 醸 Same as a Ginjo, except that no distilled alcohol is added to the sake.. Junmai Daiginjo SAKE ETIQUETTE One does not serve oneself sake in company. Always be attentive to your companions and top their glasses. Just hope that karma kicks in and someone pours you some sake too! 122 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Daiginjo 大吟醸 This is the pinnacle of premium sake! It must have a polishing ratio of at least 50%. This means no less than 50% of each grain must be polished away. It is quite possible to find ratios of 29% and even 1%! Daiginjo sakes are aromatically expressive with ripe banana, crisp apple, fennel and a soft floral bouquet. They are medium to light bodied and express lower acidity. Yet, the flavours are rich, crisp and perfectly harmonious! To have lived life without tasting a Daignjo, would be akin to have lived but never have been loved. This is a must-have experience for anyone seeking gastronomic excellence. It may seem contrary to everything one was made to understand about food pairing, but you can confidently pair a light and elegant Daiginjo with a hearty steak! Try a Daiginjo with an aromatic Chicken Biryani and savour the elegant bounty of this union with every bite! Best served chilled or up to 35°C. Junmai Daiginjo 純 米大吟醸 Yes, you got it right…pretty much the same as Daiginjo, except that there is no distilled alcohol added here.

must be stored and served chilled. Roasted root vegetables and soft, crumbly cheeses seem to like its company. Remember, since the sake is not pasteurized, store it chilled and consume within a year. Koshu 古 酒 Koshu is an aged sake and the colour ranges from pale yellow to amber. This can be an acquired taste with aromatics that can either impress or intimidate the olfactory nerves! Its best expressions, however, have ripe aromatics of dried fruit, nuts and exotic spices that can be paired with desserts. Best served chilled. Genshu 原酒 In this style of sake, no water is added to the final step of production. Genshu sake can often seem fullerbodied and sometimes exhibit a stronger alcohol structure. Pair with savoury pies or hearty stews and serve it warm, or at room temperature. Nigori Photo: © Lara Victoria Nama 生 酒 This style of sake, which is also called Nama-zake, is not pasteurized. It FINE Winter 2017 Nigori 濁り This sake is coarsely filtered making it look cloudy with unfermented rice solids, which could either appear fine-grained or chunky. A Nigori sake is generally full-bodied with generous lactic notes making it a great option to accompany creamy desserts (think: a comforting rice pudding), rich soups or risottos. Kimoto or Yamahai 生/山 廃 These are 2 distinct methods of making shubo, both of which are traditional methods which manipulate and multiply the yeast cells over extended periods of time. This often incorporates ambient yeast cells that add acidity and umami to the resulting sake. Such sakes therefore are excellent companions to earthy mushrooms, mature cheese and other savoury, umami-forward foods. Both these styles of sake can be served at a range of temperatures, from warm to chilled, but its best expressions are revealed at about 40°C to 45°C (just slightly above body temperature). Genshu Photo: © Lara Victoria Sparkling Exactly what you can expect: bubbles! Great as an aperitif, a palate cleanser between courses or with desserts. You definitely want to serve this chilled! The serving temperatures above are a safe bet for most sakes in those categories. Culinary pundits in Japan and other parts of the world have experimented with serving Ginjo and Daiginjo sakes heated with varying degrees of success. That discussion however is for another day. For now, just introduce yourself to sake and get ready to fall in love! Kampai! Sparkling FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 123

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FINE Winter 2017 Nothing but Delight Text: Adam Lechmere Photos: Consorzio Franciacorta T he writer and critic Amit Chaudhuri, reflecting on the work of the nearly-forgotten novelist Henry Green, recently suggested that his sole purpose “was to fashion a language with which to communicate joy”. Explaining Green’s complicated appeal, he said, “He has nothing to offer us but delight.” FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 125

It’s a neat phrase. What could be words, you can’t communicate joy Franciacorta is a tiny corner of a sweeter emotion for an artist without a bit of salt in the mix, and Italy, a pocket-handkerchief-sized to evoke, but delight? It applies that’s as true of wine as of anything appellation tucked into Lombardy. to composers and painters and else. Consider the difference between It’s bordered to the north by Lake poets from Chopin to Rothko to mass-produced Chardonnay and Iseo, while the city of Brescia Tagore. But Chaudhuri is describing Puligny-Montrachet, or Liebfraumilch brings up its south-eastern limit. something more complicated than and the finest Mosel Riesling. It’s barely 20 kilometres across, a simple hedonistic pleasure. Green’s Controllata (DOC) producing some is no more exquisitely sad poem The sparkling wines of Franciacorta than The Gardener – “You are the The sparkling wines of Franciacorta 5000ha of vineyard (Champagne, by evening cloud floating in the sky of are lean, fresh, seemingly contrast, is a bit over 34,000ha). my dreams”. uncomplicated, their dryness novels aren’t an easy read, and there 17.5 million bottles from less than mitigated by delicate fruit flavours Not only is Franciacorta small To say one has nothing to offer (pearskin and white cherry, (there are 116 producers), but it has but delight also implies something honeysuckle and hawthorn), been seriously producing sparkling hidden. We don’t see the mechanism effervescent mousse and juicy wine for no more than a couple of by which the artist achieves that acidity. They are joyous wines indeed, decades. While its pedigree as a wine sensation, but you can’t have delight and you’d be forgiven for reducing producing region is as distinguished without the grinding of gears and your assessment to that one simple as Burgundy’s – vineyard records pulling of levers; whether you can formula: they have nothing to offer from the 13th century have been sense that machinery or not, you but delight. found – the first modern, traditional have to know it’s there. In other 126 vino a Denominazione di Origine FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA method sparkling was produced

saying. When the DOCG rules were 1961. It was received enthusiastically, put together, they were as strict as It is different in Franciacorta investment followed, and DOC status those of Champagne. All harvesting There are other singularities. for still whites and reds as well as must be done by hand, dosage levels Franciacorta is one of the richest for sparkling was awarded in 1967. It for brut, extra brut and so on. Most areas of Italy – land is so expensive wasn’t until 1995 that Franciacorta importantly, more stringent minimum that expansion is out of the question, sparkling was given its own vino a times for ageing on lees for the so the wines have to be distinct. Denominazione di Origine Controllata different categories were set out. “We can’t compete with giants e Garantita (DOCG). Basic Franciacorta is required to sit like Champagne or Prosecco that 18 months on lees, Franciacorta Rosé have many hundreds of times our “We don’t use the traditional method, and Satèn 24 months; Millesimato, or production,” says Silvano Brescianini, we use the Franciacorta method,” vintage 30 months, and the Riservas the vice president of the Consorzio. cellar masters here are fond of not less than 60 months. “So our unique selling proposition FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Winter 2017 by the house of Fratelli Berlucchi in 127

is our difference. We have different soils, climate and our approach is quite different.” To take one example, average yields in Franciacorta are ten tonnes per hectare. Another idiosyncrasy is bottling pressure. The Satèn style is bottled at between 4.5 bars instead of the usual 6. This gives the best examples a delicate mouthfeel which contrasts pleasingly with the acidity – “satin”, indeed. The sparkling wines of Franciacorta are now made almost exclusively with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There is some Pinot Bianco, but it tends to make a less complex wine. There’s also the indigenous white grape Erbamat, which is being saved from extinction in some areas. Franciacorta sparkling is only DOCG, though there is a still wine, Curtefranca, that is a DOC, which produces red and white wines from Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The sparkling wine of Franciacorta is so stellar that the still wines tend to be seen as poor relations, but they too can be excellent. Bellavista produces a particularly fine Chardonnay, the SS Annunciata. Their reds can be charming, though rustic. In either case, you won’t see many of them outside Italy. Soils are glacial in origin – very welldrained sand and silt – and climate is sub-Alpine, protected from the cold of the north by the Alps. Locally, vineyards are sheltered by the warming influence of Lago d’Iseo and by the rolling hills at three corners of the appellation. A glance at a relief map shows just how sheltered this compact little amphitheatre is – it’s easy to see how temperatures are on average 2.5° C higher than the rest of the north. Such topography makes for perfect sparkling wine terroir, with warm, sunny days during the growing 128 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

mature quickly without losing acidity; harvests take place generally in the last week of August. Franciacorta is small yet varied The appellation is small, but it can be FINE Winter 2017 season, and cool nights. Grapes very varied. In the south, for example, on the low, five-kilometre range of hills known as Monte Orfano, olive trees and other Mediterranean plants flourish on the southern slopes. There six or seven wineries growing grapes here, among them the self-styled “garagistes” Daniele Gentile and Gigi Nembrini of Corte Fusia. “We’re warmer down here which gives a nice edge to the wines,” Gentile says. Corte Fusia is a highly focussed operation. They produce some 35,000 bottles from seven hectares of vineyard, some of which was abandoned before they took it on (in many rows the vines are still in recovery). There are no reserve wines (“we never have enough grapes. We could buy from outside Monte Orfano but we don’t”), so all wines are vintage but only labelled as such in the very best years. On our visit we sit surrounded by flat-packed boxes and full palettes in a tasting room which doubles as a packing shed. The wines are astonishingly accomplished: I note wet stones, sweet pear, poached pear, apricot, stone fruit, samphire, white pepper and brioche, minerality. Gentile and Nembrini use no oak and no dosage. A certain ripeness and delicacy of fruit, piercing acidity and dryness are the hallmark of Franciacorta. “Residual sugar tends to be very low,” Brescianini says. “We have more sun than Champagne, but we also have the acidity and this excellent balance.” Sommeliers love Franciacorta for the precision of the wines, and acidity that makes them naturally food-friendly. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 129

At Castello Bonomi, in the south of the appellation, sales manager Francesca Cavalli notes that their brut has just 4-6 grams per litre dosage. “We could call it extra brut.” Their wines don’t go through malolactic fermentation, adding further acidic bite. “This is what we regard as most important: minerality, acidity, low dosage and extended periods on the lees,” she says. Over and over again, I have noted, “this is a food wine”. This might imply a certain austerity, but the wines are quietly warm and exuberant. They have an “Aube-like sunshine character”, in the words of Tom Stevenson, the founder and chair of the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships. It is perhaps the lees ageing that sets Franciacorta apart. It brings many attributes to the wine, not least bestowing extraordinary longevity. Most producers take the compulsory ageing times and add a few years – or decades – for good measure. Ca’ del Bosco’s Cuvée Annamaria Clementi 1986 has spent a generation in bottle: they disgorged it last year after 30 years on lees. The result is a wine that is as lively as it’s seductive. It’s an astonishing feat, and one that is repeated throughout the appellation – the Majolini Aligi Sassu 2007, for example, has also just been disgorged after more than 80 months on lees. The aged wines retain their acidity and dryness while the fruit becomes opulent, even luscious, gooseberry and “greener” flavours turning to guava, apricot becoming ripe and sweet, classic pear skin flavours turning to poached pear and muscovado. Franciacorta has an experimental streak These producers are farming land that was planted to vine, centuries before the invention of the printing press, 130 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

case, the most gifted proprietors Franciacorta is one of those wine sparkling is one of the youngest indulge in experiments that have you regions that is beloved of the wine appellations in Italy, there’s a strong, scratching your head in wonder. Ca’ trade and little known by consumers. even eccentric, experimental streak del Bosco’s owner Maurizio Zanella, But, all you have to do is open here. At Bellavista, for example, for example, invested €6 million a bottle, says the appellation’s winemaker Mattia Vezzola is in a grape washing system that Ambassador in the United Kingdom, working out how to use oxygen to was inspired by industrial lettuce Tom Harrow: “The only thing that aid longevity, adding it to the must, before fermentation. It is an article of faith, he tells us, that a wine must have acidity in order to age. “There are two things which make a great wine: longevity and digestibility. Because of our terroir we can achieve digestibility through perfect ripeness – but we need to look for longevity.” Franciacorta’s micro-climate allows ripeness but acidity is generally low, so Vezzola has come up with the production. Every bunch is washed in a “jacuzzi” – a shallow bath with 360 degree water jets – before being dried and transported off to the sorting tables. The idea is to remove dust, soil, insects and heavy metals, as well as all traces of indigenous yeast. The equipment, housed in a vast open fronted hangar, looks like the cooling system of a nuclear power station. The point is this, exceeds people’s unfamiliarity with Franciacorta is their enthusiasm once tasted. The natural ripeness afforded by the region’s climate, low dosages and long lees-ageing give wines of great balance, depth and freshness.” It’s not a simple wine. To taste even the finest Prosecco (and there are many) alongside a Franciacorta, is to see instantly what you’re missing. Prosecco offers a simple, trick of adding oxygen to the must. however: washing the grapes might “Pasteur told us that oxygen is the be a splendid waste of money, but requires thought. Like all the most enemy of wine,” he tells us. “But no Ca’ del Bosco unquestionably makes sophisticated pleasures it is not one said it was the enemy of must.” some of the finest and longest lived instantly appreciable; its attractions wines in Franciacorta. They must be come by way of layers of complexity doing something right. and contrast. Then, in the end, it has Sometimes the pioneering spirit can turn to eccentricity: as is often the FINE Winter 2017 but perhaps because Franciacorta unadorned thrill, while Franciacorta nothing to offer us but delight. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 131

Franciacorta Recommendations 132 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Bellavista SS Annunciata Fratelli Berlucchi Freccianera Satèn 2012 100% Chardonnay This is DOC Curtefranca, a still wine aged for a year in neutral oak. Lovely creamy perfumed nose with hints of sandalwood and dried rose petal. Beautiful freshness on the palate, more than a hint of tropical fruit, delicate apricot and then piercing acidity carries through to a fine finish. 100% Chardonnay 6.5gsl dosage 45 months on lees (3 years 9 months) Meaty savoury nose with notes of gooseberry and salty tang of cheese rind. Tiny bubbles dance in the mouth. Sweet briar and hawthorn on the palate, concentration, that hint of salt brought through with precise acidity and wonderful length. Balanced and delicious. Ferghettina Rosé 2012 100% Pinot Noir 36 months on lees (3 years) Raspberry nose with dusting of white pepper. There’s a character of restrained generosity to this wine, the palate has red fruit as well as a whiff of samphire tempering cherry and sweet pea. Ethereal and classy. Corte Fusia Brut NV 70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Bianco Zero dosage Powerful nose with brioche and salinity. Wet stones on the palate with ripe apricot fruit, fine mousse, sharp acidity; the whole gives impression of tightly-controlled energy. Excellent. Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Millesimato Dosage Zéro 2010 50% Chardonnay 50% Pinot Noir Fresh bright mousse with citrus, pear skin, river mud and sea grass. Spiky acidity. Toasted, saline palate developing a sweet creaminess, a fine blend of vanilla and grapefruit. Pre-eminently a wine for food. Excellent.

Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Annamaria Clementi 1985 100% Pinot Noir 101 months on lees (8 years 5 months) There is precise, powerful acidity here. The mid-palate is intensely dry, but washed with juice which releases flavours of guava and tropical fruit. Austere and elegant. Chardonnay 55%, Pinot Bianco 25%, Pinot Nero 20% 360 months on lees (30 years) Disgorged 2016 Deep straw/ gold colour, scents of hay and stable floor, intimation of elegant rot. Fresh, bright effervescence, tropical fruits, spice, acidity that releases welcome splashes of juice; a really luscious and seductive and above all sprightly wine. Alive and vibrant. FINE Winter 2017 Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Collection Dosage Zéro Noir 2007 Majolini “Aligi Sassu” Pas Dosè 2008 100% Chardonnay 82 months lees (6 years 10 months) Disgorged 2016 Amazing floral, honeysuckle aromas leap out of the glass. The palate is full, bright, dense and dry at the end, with a parsimonious trickle of juice. Despite the nose this is slightly closed, but it is reined-in rather than austere. It has many years ahead. Barone Pizzini Bagnadore Franciacorta DOCG Pas Dosè Riserva 2009 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnnay 72 months on lees (6 years) Incredibly concentrated with bright, textured acidity and delicate pear-scented fruit leading to fine raspberry and hints of redcurrant. Overall impression of power and finesse. This needs robust grilled or barbecued fish as a match. Superb. Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnnay 48 months on lees (4 years) 2 gms /l dosage Intensely fresh nose with brioche aromas and then a saline edge on the attack. Real power here with a sour cherry end palate and fine wash of juice to finish. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 133

134 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: M. Anglada - Saison d'Or Photo: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

A NEW APPROACH FINE BWinter 2018 RENAISSANCE & TEXT: Ch'ng Poh Tiong C hateau Clerc Milon came to be as a result of the French Revolution (1789-99). Originally part of the seigneury of Lafite, it was parcelled out of that huge estate and sold off as a 'national asset' in 1789. The buyer was the Clerc family who join their name with that of the hamlet of Milon to usher in the birth of Chateau Clerc Milon. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 135

Photo: M. Anglada - Saison d'Or The quality and reputation of the World War I (1914-18), the Great almost half of its original size. The wine grew with the passing vintages Depression (1929-39), and World baron knew potential when he saw and in 1855, Clerc Milon was ranked War II (1939 -45). it. Clerk Milon, apart from being a a Fifth Growth in the Classification of the Médoc. At that time, the size of the vineyard was 30 hectares. The modern renaissance of Chateau Clerc Milion took place in our neighbour of Mouton, is practically across the road from Lafite. On the same side, farther up the road Then, phylloxera struck in the second lifetime. In 1970, convinced of the half of the 19th century and, in its wine's potential, Baron Philippe de wake, decimated the vineyards Rothschild bought what was by then of France and those of the rest of a pretty run down estate. At the time In 1983, Clerc Milon was given a new Europe. Recovery was tedious and of the purchase, Clerc Milon was label which depicts a pair of dancers. drawn out. Then, of course, came just 16.5 hectares, having shrunk by The motif is an art piece made from is Saint-Estephe's Chateau Cos Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix d'Estournel. 136 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

to a rudimentary vat house and vats, all gravity fed in order to reduce German goldsmith. This striking the cellars located some distance the need for handling and pumping new label is taken directly from an away in the town of Pauillac. As for which, in turn, makes it easier to intricate work of art that belongs the 'chateau', it was really no more to Chateau Mouton Rothschild's than a small village house. Baroness keep the grapes intact, thereby Museum of Wine in Art. Philippine de Rothschild set out What Baron Philippe de Rothschild started when he acquired Clerc Milon, his daughter Philippine de to complete what her father had inspired when he first bought Clerc Milon. retaining all their aroma and flavour. The technical winemaking concerns FINE Winter 2018 precious stones by a 17th century addressed, the next stage was no less important. In 2008, the Rothschild proprietor Rothschild completed in a series of A vat room, gravity-fed, was added investment to the physical introduced in 2007. This had been form of the estate. In 1988, on designed to accommodate the the passing of Baron Philippe, patchwork of parcels in the vineyard the consolidation of the vineyard and to be as flexible as possible was already well under way and when the manual harvest is brought director of winemaking for all three the reputation of Clerc Milon on in. After further hand-sorting, the properties, and also one person a steady rise. On the other hand, grapes are transferred to the vats in overall in charge of viticulture for the technical facilities were limited mobile bins. There are a total of 40 those three chateaux. family separated the winemaking at Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Clerc Milon and Chateau d'Armailhac. Prior Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix to that, there was one over-seeing FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 137

Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix 'Previously, the organisation was then each estate must become horizontal,' explains Jean-Emmanuel entirely focussed on just its own Danjoy, who had joined as winemaker terrior. It's not just winemaking that at Clerc Milon after having spent 10 is involved because we work in the years at Opus One in Napa Valley. vineyard too. Clerc Milon alone has 'The new idea was for each chateau to be independent. And, although part of the old team continued to be here, my first vintage with the new team was 2009. ' of the soil is gravel, limestone, and with some clay. Clerc Milon attains freshness easily from those soils which is a challenge because if we don't have enough ripeness, the As a result of the change, Erick freshness becomes acidity. There Tourbier became in charge of must be commensurate ripeness to winemaking at Mouton; Jean-Paul harness that freshness,' elaborates Polaert at Chateau d'Armailhac; and Danjoy. Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy at Clerc Milon. The person who oversees all three properties is Philippe Dhalluin, who joined in 2003 following the retirement of Patrick Leon. 138 247 blocks of vines. The majority The consequence of the new approach is that the new team and regime at Clerc Milon now gets a better picture of their terroir and all the varietals in their vineyard. 'The family realised that if they want The Pauillac Classified Growth is to have the best from the estates, quite special in that it is planted to FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix The proprietors of Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Clerc Milon. From left, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild. ‘The majority of the soil is gravel, limestone, and with some clay. Clerc Milon attains freshness easily from those soils which is a challenge because if we don’t have enough ripeness, the freshness becomes acidity,’ Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy spent 10 years at Opus One in Napa before being lured back to Bordeaux.

soil is made up of two-thirds deep In 2011, Chateau Clerc Milon Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 12% sandy gravel over a clay-limestone unveiled a striking 3,600-square Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit-Verdot, base. The average age of the vines is metre complex comprising a half- and 1% Carmenere. Planting density almost 55 years, one of the highest in is between 8,500 and 10,000 vines underground barrel hall, a cellar, the Médoc. and reception and tasting rooms. per hectare. Chateau Clerc Milon has 41 hectares of vines in the north- The strive for a deeper east of the Pauillac appellation, on understanding of the vineyard has the Mousset crest overlooking the given Danjoy and his team a clearer, Gironde. The gentle slope favours crisper, more resonant picture. It's as natural drainage and exposure if they have become more bonded to sunlight, while the nearby river with their charge. creates a microclimate that protects Power is provided by 300 sq m of FINE Winter 2018 the five varieties of 54% Cabernet photovoltaic cells on the roof, such is the concern for the environment. As for the chateau, that's a rectangular building in the form of a temple, encircled by a spacious terrace giving an uninterrupted view onto the 'Our understanding of our terroir has vines and the surrounding estates. reduces the risk of hail, and brings gone from 5,000 to 5 million pixels,' A Pauillac classified growth was a nippy coolness in summer. The Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy sums up. reborn. > Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix the vines from frost in spring, FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 139

Photo: Ch'ng Poh Tiong TASTING NOTES I asked my host for me to approach the 10 wines in three flights. From experience, you get much more from each wine this way as we are better able to focus on three or four wines at any one time than have your mind range back and forth 10 of them. Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy then asked in what order I wanted to taste the wines. I asked to be guided by him. The tasting notes are in the sequence in which Danjoy arranged the vintages in the tasting on Monday 8 January 2018. 140 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

2007 This was the first vintage to be vinified in the new cuverie. The aromatics are delicate and include a whiff of mint, soft sandalwood, a dab of tobacco, and light blackcurrant fruit. Mediumplus-ish in body, the wine shows an early maturity. Now to 2025. 2008 More closed on the nose than 2007. And equally tight on the palate. The structure is in front of the fruit at the moment. Blue/black fruit is detected. This needs to be re-tasted in the future when the wine will become more expressive. No rating given. 2009 Immediate sensation of generous fruit: blackcurrant and cassis. The succulence is matched by ripe, rich tannins. Still very youthful. The firm finish is wrapped in freshness. This buoyancy is quite remarkable given that 2009 was a heat-ravaged vintage. Then again, this is the northern Médoc where Pauillac borders St-Estephe. And, as Danjoy alluded to in the first part of this article, freshness is a forte of Clerc Milon. (Chateau Clerc Milon is located practically opposite of Lafite-Rothschild and, just farther up the road on the same side is StEstephe's Chateau Cos d'Estournel). 2010 A much more complete wine than 2009. The intensity and concentration of fruit - including cherries - is cocooned in an atom of vivacity. Bright, lifted, and with great length. The tannins are very polished. Incredible balance and energy. Flight II 2011 - Delicately smoky and vanilla on the nose. Peppery/capsicum/blue fruit. Fresh, fine tannins. Elegant. Mediumplus bodied. Danjoy informs that spring was warm and dry and the vines struggled for water. The small berries had thick skin and the wine has more tannins and minerality but is less aromatic. Médoc harvest was 'like in Napa where you could wait and not worry about rain and come back anytime to harvest the grapes in optimum ripeness'. 2012 FINE Winter 2018 Flight I Considerably more aromatic than 2011. Delicious, vivacious red and blue fruit. Lots of freshness. Texturally not as silky as 2011 but the fruit has more vitality. There's just a touch of sappiness on the finish. Mediumplus body. Danjoy informs that 2012 is the total opposite of 2011. 'Spring was very wet and the vine grew a lot. There is a lot less tannins which is why it is so much more aromatic.' 2013 The red fruit, although light, is very elegant. So too the tannins. Lovely balance. Feminine. Danjoy informs that some of the fruit 'was not in good shape in 2013'. As a result, the maceration was shorter. So too the extraction which was also more gentle. Flight III 2014 Floral and whiff of violets (for Danjoy, it's irises). Ripe red fruit and blueberries. Silky tannins. Marvellous texture. Very polished and classy. Clerc Milon 2014 is truly impressive and over delivers for the vintage which is already regarded as a good to very good year. Danjoy informs that the end of August was completely overcast and that there were small showers. The temperatures were not very high. The general opinion, at the time, was that the vintage would not be very good. Nature then sprung a surprise. The gift was a belated but much appreciated long and dry Indian summer. The harvest started on September 22nd on a few young plots of Merlot and only finished on October 17th for the Carmenere. Reflecting on the 10 years he had spent in California, Danjoy remembered that the 2014 2015 The 2015 was somewhat closed up when I visited on January 8th. But not entirely. The undoubted quality of this stunning vintage simply would be denied. On the nose and palate, there's just richer, riper blue fruit, and riper, richer tannins. The wine has more density, concentration, and power. What makes all that so impressive is the unyielding freshness that accompanies the bounty of fruit and tannins. 2016 Nature smiled on Bordeaux in 2015 and 2016 and delivered two magnificent wines. The fruit of 2016 is considerably more exuberant, forward, and upfront. I remember, in April 2017, tasting La Fleur Petrus in the Pomerol chateau with Christian Moueix, how I described it to the proprietor as 'the Beaujolais Nouveau vintage of Bordeaux', so juicy was the fruit at that youthful curve of the wine. Since then, 2016 has closed up considerably. Still, there's the whiff of violets. Tight but very rich fruit and tannins.The texture is very impressive. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 141

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FINE Winter 2012 e an C in man hianti Text: Petri Nevalainen Photography: Pekka Nuikki & Jaime Travezan H aving lost his heart to Italy, Sting had resigned himself to the fact that his family was unable to find a suitable home in the country. They had gone on one fruitless exploration after another and there seemed to be no hope. Then Trudie Styler told her husband of a new house up for sale close to the medieval town of Figline Valdarno in Tuscany. To their amazement, Trudie and Sting walked along a cypress-lined avenue right up to the saffron-yellow house of their dreams. They found a home for their family and obtained a farm into the bargain. Its main produce is packed into tens of thousands of bottles each year. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 143

Film producer, actress Trudie Styler and her husband, world-renowned musician Sting, have been producing organic red wine in the Chianti wine region of Tuscany, Italy, since 2007. They are always looking to improve the quality of their wines. When FINE visited Il Palagio for this exclusive interview, the atmosphere at the estate was expectant. The closing lunch of the Divino Tuscany festival, which celebrates winemaking excellence, good music and dear friends, was to be served under marquees on Trudie and Sting’s property. With hundreds of guests about to arrive, the host couple still had time to recall the early days of their wineproducing career and the events leading up to their decision to start growing wine. The Red House is a two-story building situated near the main villa, with a centuriesold door leading to a cosy downstairs hall. A heavy table holds diverse wine-related books, music magazines and novels. There is a selection of Il Palagio Chianti wines, as well as honey and olive oil. These are all products from the estate. Not to forget Sting’s music, which in its own way is also a “product” of Il Palagio. It appears to permeate the air somehow. This is where FINE met Trudie and Sting. IL PALAGIO Il Palagio has always been farmed. In the late 1700s the Martelli family purchased the property and as their wealth grew, so did the estate. In 1819 they sold to the Countess Carlotta Barbolani of Montauto, the widow of the Duke of San Clemente and it remained in this family’s hands for some 150 years. At the beginning of the twentieth century Duke Simone Vincenzo Velluti Zati di San Clemente commissioned several new buildings including a grain store, oil mill and wine production area. 144 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA LEARNING ABOUT WINE At Il Palagio, everything which is intended for sale is grown on site, and ensuring proper harvests requires a lot of hard work combined with a pinch of good luck. Neither of the hosts were originally wine people. Trudie grew up in rural Worcestershire, while Sting (originally named Gordon Sumner) is originally from the northern metropolis of Newcastle. Neither family particularly favoured wine while they were growing up. At Trudie’s house, traditional British drinks were enjoyed on holidays. “I think the closest my parents ever got to drinking wine was a glass of sherry at Christmas. I became interested in wines when travelling around southern Europe before the age of twenty. I can’t drink red wine because I am allergic to it, but I do enjoy whites and rosés,” Trudie says. Her husband, meanwhile, acquired his drinking customs from the cradle of British male culture: the pub. Wines were not traditional favourites in his hometown. “Newcastle is an old ale region. When I started touring the world with The Police in the late 1970s, quality wines were always placed in my dressing rooms. Not knowing any­thing about wines, I used to give them to my roadies. Gradually my bass technician Danny Quatrochi grew as a wine expert and collected quite a good wine cellar from the wines I had given him. With his help I started learning about wines in my thirties,” Sting recalls. SPIRITUAL HOME IN ITALY Trudie and Sting ended up as owners of an Italian wine estate mostly by accident. They

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“We wanted to find a home for our family in this country. Trudie and I had each separately fallen in love at first sight with Italy, but it took us about ten years to find the right place.” 146 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

“Our dream house existed in our minds, but would we be able to find it in real life? Arriving here, we met Estate Manager Paolo Rossi, who was born at Il Palagio. He took us around the estate; we saw the lakes and explored the house with its humanly sized rooms. It felt like home,” she says. already had strong personal links to the Mediterranean country, after their daughter Coco was born there in 1990 while Sting was creating his first album of the decade, The Soul Cages. The daughter’s arrival and the father’s creative effort indelibly rooted the family in the Italian soil. “It was a happy time which is forever in our memory. A lot of the themes for The Soul Cages came from the life and death of Sting’s parents. Meanwhile, the birth of our daughter symbolised the continuation of life and made us feel we had reached our spiritual home,” Trudie says. In Britain they moved to the Lake House estate in Wiltshire in 1992. In their hearts, however, they also hoped to establish a permanent base in Italy. “We wanted to find a home for our family in this country. Trudie and I had each separately fallen in love at first sight with Italy, but it took us about ten years to find the right place. We went to see several houses, but none of them suited us for one reason or another. I was starting to lose hope and felt I’d had enough of it. Trudie mentioned one more place that had just come up for sale close to Figline Valdarno in the Florence region, though,” Sting says. He protested for a while before agreeing to go once more on the house hunt. He feared it might be pointless. Walking along the cypress-lined avenue, Sting and Trudie were suddenly faced with the yellow main building at Il Palagio. They experienced its irresistible charm and a feeling of life having been lived there. “We immediately knew we had found our home. We settled on the deal that same day.” According to Trudie, the house had not really been on the market before, so they had no clear preconception of what Il Palagio was actually like. The Il Palagio estate is 300 hectares in size. In addition to the villa it has outbuildings for wine production, the vineyards themselves, olive groves, a forested area with lakes and, naturally, a recording studio for Sting. The home has also been used for tour rehearsals with his solo band and The Police, who in 2007 reunited for a couple of years for a world tour. At Il Palagio Trudie can concentrate on her film production work and her duties in the Rainforest Foundation, which the couple founded together, and in UNICEF, for which Trudie has raised millions of dollars as a Goodwill Ambassador. They became farmers and wine-producers thanks to the traditions of the region and the history of the estate, where wine had been grown for a long time. “Running a farm was not at the forefront of our minds when we found Il Palagio; it came with the house. I was served wine by the Duke of San Clemente, who sold us the estate, and it was delicious. I swam in the lake, I enjoyed the olive grove and, above all, I loved the house. We recruited the people who were at Il Palagio when we arrived. Paolo and his sister stayed in the house. All this would have been impossible to achieve without them. They knew the history of the place and the necessary local people, so they have been priceless to us,” Sting says emphatically. The family moved into the house in 1997. After living there for a couple of years, Sting asked his estate manager why the wine served by the duke had been better than that which was being produced by the estate. It turned out that the duke’s wine had been French. Soon afterwards, Trudie and Sting began to plan how to improve the quality of the estate’s wines. “It was all thanks to Trudie’s energy. She suggested delving more closely into wine production and investing in it. We would also FINE Winter 2012 “We do our best to produce our wines as naturally as possible. We are not yet officially registered as an organic producer, but we are continuously working on creating a better wine. My father has been a role model for me in farming. You have to start by cleaning the land, and continue doing that all the time. When the soil is healthy it makes everything else possible.” THE DUKE AND HIS WINE FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 147

need to consult winemaking experts. We thought perhaps eventually we might be able to send the duke some of our wine as thanks,” Sting laughs. And so they did. OLD AND NEW The estate did not give up all of its old wine customs, however. Sting and Trudie wanted to keep some of the old style but combine it with new ideas. Growing the wine organically was one of these ideas. Trudie explains that taking on organic farming practices forms a part of a larger process related to biodynamic agriculture. “We do our best to produce our wines as naturally as possible. We are not yet officially registered as an organic producer, but we are continuously working on creating a better wine. My father has been a role model for me in farming. You have to start by cleaning the land, and continue doing that all the time. When the soil is healthy it makes everything else possible,” Trudie says. The owners of Il Palagio say that they are constantly learning more about wine production from real professionals in the field. They admit having been on the receiving end of some doubts and criticism for only making it in the business due to their celebrity. “I see where they are coming from, but the truth is that we are doing this together with genuine experts. The bottom line is the taste and quality of the wine,” Trudie says. One of their advisors is the internation148 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA ally renowned organic winemaker Alan York, who is especially known for his contributions to the Californian producer Benziger. Il Palagio’s oenologist is Paolo Caciorgna. “This year, crops have been affected by the weather. It rained a lot in the spring. Still, we believe that we can create better and better quality every year. The “This year, crops have been affected by the soil is in much better shape now then weather. It rained a lot in the spring. Still, when we started we believe that we can create better and this new producbetter quality every year. The soil is in much tion phase a few better shape now then when we started this years ago,” he says. Sting feels that new production phase a few years ago.” organic wine production is a good choice of direction, because Il Palagio is not able to compete with non-organically farmed products coming from the world’s biggest wine districts. Their production volumes and marketing machines are too large. “We decided to make a wine that is nongeneric, and typical only of us. We wanted people to be able to enjoy characteristic Il Palagio wine. I don’t think our wines taste the same as other producers’ wines. We can only compete in the wine world by having products with their own fingerprint,” Sting explains. In Sting’s view, most non-organic wines are quite homogeneous, with very similar tastes and characters. He compares wines to music.

THREE RED WINES Most of the grapes grown at Il Palagio are of the Sangiovese variety, but there are also Canaiolo, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes here. “I work on diverse production principles, All in all, Il Palagio will produce around 30,000 methods and all the stages of operation at bottles in 2012, conIl Palagio. I discuss things with Paolo and the sisting of three differwines: Sister Moon others and I want to be a part of the team. ent (10,000 bottles), When I like that,” Trudie says. We Dance (5,000 bottles) and Casino delle vie (13,000-15,000 bottles). The first two are named after songs by Sting. The couple has a clear distribution of duties when it comes to winemaking. “I drink it and appreciate it,” Sting hastens to say with a smile. Before him is a glass of When We Dance. “I work on diverse production principles, methods and all the stages of operation at ll Palagio. I discuss things with Paolo and the others and I want to be a part of the team. I like that,” Trudie says. At the estate, Trudie and Sting came to realise that building an irrigation system is one of the most challenging things, requiring both expertise and money. Watering plays an important role together with the other ways to look after the soil. According to Estate Manager Paolo Rossi, vines yield for around 25 years. “They have to be watered correctly from the very start. Otherwise their production as a whole may be compromised,” he says. FINE Winter 2012 “Anyone can compose a song. For a star to be born you need originality, for your song or performance to be instantly recognisable – your voice, your sound, your rendering should be completely unique. We want to create a star in the wine world which is not mass-produced but completely unique.” “Sometimes a song may be written in a minute, but there is a lot of work that has gone into it beforehand. Speaking of creativity, I like to quote golfer Arnold Palmer, who said ‘The more I practice, the luckier I get’.” PROGRESS THROUGH COLLABORATION Il Palagio works together with other wineries in Tuscany in order to keep abreast of the times and trends in wine production. None of these wineries are experts on each detail of the process, so working together they can achieve better results. Comparing experiences and sharing new ideas is important for all. Some of Sting and Trudie’s Italian musician friends are also in wine. “Andrea Bocelli and Zucchero at least are in the business. Of course we compare our wines, and naturally ours is the best,” Sting quips, accompanied by amused laughter from Trudie. In future, work will be done at Il Palagio to investigate growth opportunities and rec- FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 149

ognise some of the challenges in the sector. Il Palagio wines can currently be bought in the United States, China and many European countries: Italy, as well as the UK, Belgium, Luxembourg and Poland, among others. Negotiations concerning new markets are under way. “My band was recently invited for dinner in Poland. The host served all of our wines with a fine meal. Also in Las Vegas we were served Sister Moon at 250 dollars a bottle. I asked if the sommelier could bring us something cheaper,” Sting chuckles. FINE tells Sting and Trudie that the hotel close to their estate is also sold out of Il Palagio wines. Trudie seizes the opportunity with a smile, asking Paolo to call them and ask if they need more wine. As his all-time favourite wine, Sting cites Pétrus. “I have always liked it. Trudie has bought it for my birthdays and it is delicious. I have also received some wine training at a cellar at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. If I order wine at a restaurant, I usually go for Brunello.” One of Trudie’s favourite white wines played an important role on the couple’s big day. “At our wedding in 1992 we served Antinori’s Cervario, which was delightful.” Lunchtime approaches at Il Palagio. After a photography session Sting and Trudie step out with style and ease to greet their friends and guests. The estate has been producing excellent wines and wonderful music, and will continue to do so in the years to come. That’s not a bad combination. > 150 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA STING, TRUDIE & IL PALAGIO 1997 The couple buys the Il Palagio estate in Tuscany. 1998 The film Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels, directed by future ‘Mr Madonna’, Guy Ritchie, is released by Trudie’s production company, Xingu Films. It meets with great success. 1999 Sting releases the album Brand New Day. 2002 Trudie produces and co-directs with John-Paul Davidson the documentary The Sweatbox, featuring John Goodman, Tom Jones, Eartha Kitt and Sting. 2003 Sting completes his next album, Sacred Love. 2006 Release of Songs From The Labyrinth, combining 16th century lute music with Sting’s vocals. 2007 First vintage of Il Palagio wine. 2009 If on a Winter’s Night…, featuring a very different style of music, reaches no. 6 on the Billboard chart. 2009 Production of Il Palagio’s first wine, Sister Moon. 2010 Symphonicities is released with symphonic arrangements of Sting’s most celebrated songs. 2011 Sting celebrates his sixtieth birthday with festivities including an all-star benefit concert in New York. 2012 Il Palagio stages its first three day cookery classes with brilliant chef Alba di Papi showing select groups of eight how to make the most delicious traditional dishes from Tuscany’s finest harvested produce during their stay at Palagio. 2012 The free iPad app STING 25, a first-of-its-kind ‘appumentary’ exploring Sting’s enduring solo career, is awarded the prestigious Cannes Lion for Best Design/Aesthetic at the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity.

93p Sister Moon 2008 IGT Toscana, Italy Tenuta Il Palagio Deep, ruby red Intense, rich, ripe black fruits, plums, earthy, gently toasty, brambles, licorice Taste Harmonious, silky texture, toasty finish with some licorice Aftertaste Long, joyful, flirty, rich In a nutshell Smooth as Sister Moon Buy or not Yes Decanting time 6 hours Glass time 3 hours Food pairing Roasted Wild Boar with Roasted Rosemary flavoured Potatoes Fake factor None Or try this Enjoy the song alone Food pairing Roasted wild boar with roasted rosemary flavoured potatos Fake factor None Or try this To enjoy the song alone Inside information: Named after Sting’s song “Sister Moon” this was the first IGT Toscano wine produced at Il Palagio. With an alcohol content of 14.9% it is aged for 24 months in new French barriques. Two vintages are available, 2007 and 2008. Final verdict The Sister Moon will be my guide Region Producer Appearance Nose 91p 90p Casino delle Vie 2009 FINE Winter 2012 THE IL PALAGIO PRODUCTS IGT Toscana, Italy Tenuta Il Palagio Medium intense, cherry red Pronounced, toasty, oaky, spicy, floral, ripe black fruit, dark cacao Taste Medium-bodied, rich, gentle tannins, vivid acidity, refined, bit oaky Aftertaste Oaky, spicy, vivid In a nutshell Pimped by oak Buy or not Yes Decanting time 4 hours Glass time 2 hours Food pairing Grilled Venison with Morel Sauce Fake factor None Or try this Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2009 Food pairing Grilled Venison with morrel sauce Fake factor None Or try this Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2009 Inside information: This wine is named after a property on the estate and when translated it means “little house by the roads”. Colloquially, this can also mean “the muddling of the ways” suggesting philosophical musings on the paths we all take in life. Final verdict Knocks you down if you are an old school Chianti-lover Region Producer Appearance Nose When We Dance Chianti 2010 Chianti Classico, Italy Tenuta Il Palagio Moderately intense, ruby red Pronounced, floral, dark cherries, toasty Taste Medium-bodied, vivid acidity, gentle tannins, toasty and dry spicy, wild strawberries Aftertaste Full-bodied, intense, rich, velvety, fleshy, lovely toasty, energetic, round In a nutshell Wine like jive Buy or not Yes Decanting time 3 hours Glass time 2 hours Food pairing Rabbit Ragoût with Creamy Truffle Pasta Fake factor None Or try this Carnasciale Rosso 2009, Podere Il Carnasciale Food pairing Rabbit ragoût with creamy truffle pasta Fake factor None Or try this Carnasciale Rosso 2009, Podere Il Carnasciale Inside information: The most recent addition to the Il Palagio cellar is this every day chianti, again named after a Sting song When We Dance. With 95% Sangiovese blended with Canaiolo and Colorino grapes, the alcohol content is 13%. Final verdict A modern chianti wine with edge Region Producer Appearance Nose The il Palagio Oil The olive trees which grace Il Palagio’s landscape date back for many hundreds of years and have been sensitively restored to full productivity. This is largely thanks to the care and dedication of Estate Manager Paolo Rossi, who insists that the orchards are not irrigated, a system which is labourintensive but which greatly improves quality. Paolo sites his trees right at the limit of the optimal growing area at 360 feet above sea level. This is the best situation to escape the natural pest of the olive fly. Finally, the fruits are collected by hand, as they have been for centuries, ensuring only the very finest are selected. The oil is then cold pressed, and the resulting Extra Virgin first pressed oil is as pure as you can imagine. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 151

COLUMN MARY KAE IRVIN MOVIES WINES W AND hen I was first introduced to the wine industry in the United States, the year was 1985. I was a newly minted 21 year old – just barely legal to enjoy alcohol. On route to a job interview, I took a wrong turn (both literally and figuratively) that led me to what would become a major change of course in my life. I stopped for directions in a beautiful park like setting surrounded by fountains, flower, trout ponds, beautiful trees and a French Empire style Chateau. “Now this,” I thought, “is lovely! I’d love to work in a place like this!” The place was the Chateau Ste Michelle Winery, a fairly young and upcoming enterprise at the time. They offered me a job, and my wine journey began. Though I was a quick study, there was much to a la Natalie Portman – think French Chablis. learn. What better way to catalogue information But, showcasing her varietal character with or in my newfound interest than to marry it to without the mantle of oak – she’s typically the things I already knew? I loved movies and acting most complex of the Divas – she’s Meryl Streep, so in an effort to help myself better understand Susan Sarandon, Katherine Hepburn, Audrey and remember wine styles I set about casting a Hepburn... Elegantly crafted and intelligent, movie with wine: she has warranted the most care and attention Chardonnay is my Leading Lady (Best Actress) – smart, sophisticated and sexy. She 152 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA to detail in her handling. Sauvignon Blanc would be my Best might be curvy and voluptuous like Marilyn Supporting Actress – along with Semillon, Monroe – think barrel fermented California Pinot Gris, and Viognier – not quite as complex ageing ‘sur lees’. She might be lean and sinewy or layered. She’s the best friend, witty side-kick

FINE Winter 2017 and likeable support – she’s Allison Janney, find your aesthetic, and run with it. For me, both grow and craft, we’re always in search of Laurie Metcalf, Helena Bonham Carter CBE. a well crafted ‘Cab’ is one you’d love to have the memorable ones. At its best, he is a perfectly When you burn out on Chardonnay, she’s the dinner with today, but would be even sexier and suave and easy – he’s Mathew McConaughey company you long for, the welcome respite. desirable in 20 years. complete with polished shoes. A spicy, smoky and hedonistic Syrah – think Antonio Banderas Which leaves us our ingenues – Riesling, Best Supporting Actors – each have a Chenin and Gewurztraminer – the Sweet- personality of their own. Take Merlot. He’s Young-Things. They are Baywatch Babes of the Albert Brooks, James Corden, John Goodman – wine industry – simple, lovely, vivacious – enjoy he’s got the love handles, is approachable, non- Rosé is my Disney Channel young adult star them now as they may not last the test of time. threatening, congenial and almost everybody of the day – simple and certainly palatable at likes him – he’s the “fun guy” in the room. “that” moment on a picnic or on the water, but My Leading Man (Best Actor) is Cabernet in Zorro – offers a mealtime sizzle factor while never taking itself too seriously. not a lot of depth – unlikely that some years Sauvignon or any wines using ‘Cab’ as a Other Best Supporting’s include wonderful backbone in the blend. Again, he is sexy, blenders – like Malbec – alone he’s very Johnny muscular, assertive, a bit of swagger, hair-on- Depp – a chameleon – depending on where the Of course, there are many other wines that his-chest, yet elegant – he’s Harrison Ford, Paul grape is grown, it presents differently subject don’t show up on this cast list, but an overview Newman, Anthony Hopkins, Sean Connery to terroir. In a blend, it fills in all the gaps like for those folks just logging wine styles into their – they age gracefully. Just when you thought grout on a mosaic. Then there’s Cabernet Franc. mental rolodex (if you’re my generation) or they’d hit their peak, they just continued to get He’s Gregory Peck with a firm tannin core – he smartphones. I find this very helpful. Hope you better. Granted, not every Cabernet is going gives gravitas and depth just like the grape to the do to! > to be George Clooney in a tux – some might Bordeaux blends. Pinot Noir is the stand-alone present more like Jeff Bridges in True Grit – so Supporting Actor and while temperamental to from now, you will remember the name. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 153

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FINE Winter 2017 Buying in Bond James Bond and Bordeaux Fine Wines TEXT: Stuart George C reated by the novelist Ian Fleming in 1953, James Bond “007” is a fictional British secret agent working for MI6 (the offices of which are close to my London home). Bond appeared in twelve novels by Fleming. Since 1962, there have been 27 Bond films, with Bond portrayed on screen by Sean Connery, Roger Moore, and Daniel Craig, among others. In the novels and in the films, Bond is depicted as a handsome secret agent who has several vices, including drinking fine Bordeaux wines. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 155

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FINE Winter 2017 Château Angélus C hâteau Angélus – a red wine from Saint-Émilion in the Bordeaux region – appeared in the James Bond movies Casino Royale (2006) and Spectre (2015). In Casino Royale, Angélus – apparently the 1982 vintage but my eyesight is not that good – is seen while Bond (played by Daniel Craig) dines with Vesper Lynd (Eva Green) in a railway dining car on his way to the Casino Royale in Montenegro. Angélus 2005 – still beyond my eyesight – is featured in Spectre (again on a train) when Bond dines with Madeleine Swann (Léa Seydoux). The de Boüard de Laforest family that owns Angélus has been there for seven generations, with roots in Saint-Émilion going back to 1564. Until the mid 1980s, L’Angélus (it became plain Angélus in 1990, to place it under “A” rather than “L” in computerised lists) was a well-regarded Saint-Émilion estate that consistently produced good wine – 1934, 1952, 1964, 1966, 1970, 1979, 1980, 1982, and 1984 were excellent examples – but seldom made anything special. New oak barrels were not used until 1980 – before then vats were used – with 2/3 new oak from 1980 on. However, since his first vintage in 1985, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, aided by his cousin by marriage Jean–Bernard Grenié, has propelled Angélus to the forefront of “modern” Saint-Émilion, with promotion from Grand Cru Classé to Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1996 and then to Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) in 2012. Jean–Bernard Grenié has stated that the laws that prohibit wine advertising in France led Château Angélus to pursue a strategy of product placement in movies. Angélus’s agent in Paris had a connection to the Broccoli family – producers of the Bond films – and sent them a case of wine. An arrangement for Château Angélus to appear in James Bond films was subsequently agreed. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 157

Château Cheval Blanc I n Never Say Never Again (1983), James Bond – played for the final time by the late Sean Connery – drinks a bottle of Château Cheval Blanc from a well-stocked hamper (in bed, with a friend – exactly how wine should be enjoyed). www.jamesbondlifestyle.com says, “Unfortunately the year of the wine can’t be seen clearly. It looks like 1982, the year before the movie was made, but it could also be a different year.” Filming of Never Say Never Again began on 27th September 1982. Cheval Blanc is aged in barrels for 18 months or so, so the earliest vintage that could appear in the film is 1980 – perhaps the best wine of an underwhelming vintage at the beginning of a golden decade for Bordeaux. 158 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Like Angélus, Château Cheval Blanc is a wine estate in Saint-Émilion in the Bordeaux region of France and is one of only four to receive the highest rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé (A). Cheval 1979 and 1978 are also good wines. Indeed, Cheval was good throughout the 1970s, with the exception of the execrable 1972, 1973 (11.8% alcohol!), and 1974 (my vintage, unluckily for me; Sean Connery does no better with 1930). From the 1960s and before, Cheval Blanc was exceptional in 1966, 1964, 1961, 1959, 1955, 1953, 1952 (one of the finest old red wines that I’ve had), 1949, 1947, 1943, 1934, 1929, 1928, 1924, 1921…

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007, James Bond and related logos are trademarks of Danjaq, LLC. 160 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

I n The Man With The Golden Gun (1974), James Bond (played by Roger Moore) enjoys 1934 Château Mouton Rothschild in the company of Mary Goodnight (Britt Ekland), served by Nick Nack (Hervé Villechaize) at lunch with Francisco Scaramanga (Christopher Lee). Mouton 1934 comes from the best (and largest) vintage of an otherwise difficult decade for Bordeaux. With the possible exception of Cheval Blanc, Mouton is the best of the ’34s. It was described by the late Michael Broadbent MW as “Lovely and – for Mouton – relatively low-keyed”. Château Mouton Rothschild is a wine estate located in the village of Pauillac in the Médoc region, 50 km north-west of the city of Bordeaux. This vintage of Mouton comes from the era before its bespoke artist labels and only a year before the Comité National des Appellations d’Origine was created to manage and control the region and commune in which a wine was produced. In 1973, Mouton was elevated to Premier Cru (“First Growth”) status – the only change to the original 1855 classification. FINE Winter 2017 Château Mouton Rothschild An Art Deco label was commissioned from the poster artist Carlu for the 1924 Mouton vintage. To commemorate the end of the war, 1945 was the second vintage of Mouton to feature a bespoke label, based on Churchill’s “V for Victory”, by a young French artist called Philippe Jullian. Every vintage since, Mouton has enlisted an artist to design a new label. Although the artists are never paid for their work, they do receive ten cases of wine – five of that year’s vintage, plus five of their own vintage. Mouton ’34 doesn’t appear in Ian Fleming’s 1965 novel The Man With The Golden Gun but it does feature in Moonraker (1955) when James Bond and M are having dinner at Blades: “’Then what?’ asked M. ‘Champagne? Personally I’m going to have a half-bottle of claret. The Mouton Rothschild ’34, please, Grimley. But don’t pay any attention to me, James. I’m an old man. Champagne’s no good for me.’” In Diamonds Are Forever (1971), James Bond (played by Sean Connery) is served 1955 Château Mouton Rothschild by Mr Wint (Bruce Glover). 1955 comes after the execrable 1954 – one of the worst Bordeaux summers on record – and before the catastrophic 1956, when the February frost froze the sap in the vines and destroyed some vineyards. Michael Broadbent mentions Mouton 1955 as being “spectacular” but “very expensive” at 36 shillings per bottle when it was released. In 2021, 36 shillings equates to £1.80. Allowing for inflation, it’s about £68. Not very expensive. Described by Mouton Rothschild as “The first artist of international stature to illustrate a Mouton Rothschild label”, Georges Braque (1882-1963) was, with Picasso, one of the originators of Cubism. His drawing for the 1955 Mouton label shows a glass of wine on a table – a nice setting in which to enjoy Mouton Rothschild. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 161

Rail Royalty– The 162 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017 Maharajas’ Express Text: RITU & RAJIV SINGHAL Photographs: MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS W hen the journey itself becomes the destination, luxury travel is redefined. The uber lux offering of the Indian Railways – the Maharajas’ Express, an ode to the royal heritage of India – has firmly established itself amongst the fabled most luxurious trains that have run the tracks around the world as the “World's Leading Luxury Train”. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 163

In a highly praise-worthy initiative, the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Limited (IRCTC) brought the Maharajas’ Express back to life in 2010 to protect the rich royal legacy for future generations, redefine luxury travel on tracks and allow guests to experience the luxury lifestyle just like the erstwhile royals did in the bygone era. Deluxe Suite The indulgence of Indian Royals in the FINEst that was on offer (from all around the world) is legendary. Whimsical as they were, anything that caught their fancy was acquired for them – by hook or by crook – no one was willing to invite the wrath of hukum. Fascinated by the first passenger train in India that was flagged off with a 21gun salute on a 34 kilometer route between Bombay’s Bori Bunder and Thane in 1853, the royals of various princely states began to vie with each other to stay “one-up” and present ostentatious custom designed personal luxury coaches that showcased novelties and rarities like strips of ivory, solid gold hardware, sycamore wood, telephones, air coolers over ice or anything else that the makers in England could do to amuse their patrons. Delhi Safdarjung Railway Station, tucked away into a relatively unknown quarter of the capital’s Diplomatic Enclave, is home for the Maharajas’ Express. The sleepy station kicks into a flurry of activity as the station master is alerted by flashing panels in his control room of the yesteryears that royalty is approaching. 23 ornate and glossy burgundy coloured coaches of this nearly half a mile-long train are pulled by modern locomotives (that have sadly replaced the steam engine) to the platform. Turbaned and royally liveried stewards roll out the red carpet around the aesthetic flower and diya arrangements, rangolis and local folk artists in elaborately coloured dresses that deck the platform. Guests are led to Rajah Club lounge coach – which, as per an elaborate security protocol, is the only entry and exit point – where they are welcomed on to the train with a grand traditional Indian ceremony replete with marigold garlands, tilak and aarti. The guests’ anticipation and excitement of the fascinating Presidential Suite 164 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017 mystical excursion ahead is palpable. No ordinary train journey this one – the Maharajas’ Express is a modern palace that defines luxurious comfort – on wheels. The rich ethnic designs, motifs and arts in the coaches stun the visual senses. The tasteful interiors including, but not limited to, wooden carvings and mirrorwork take inspiration from the elegance and grandeur from the age of Raj – the whole experience is a grand tribute to the regal lifestyle of that era. On the train, 88 guests are accommodated in 43 suites which range in classification from Deluxe suites, Junior suites, Maharaja suites and the show-stopper Presidential suite, Navratna (nine gems). Precious stones name the guest coaches (whose number varies depending on trip occupancy) – Moti, Heera, Panna, Neelam, Firoza, Moonga, Pukhraj and so on. The walls and ceilings of the lodgings carry the theme around the stone from which its name is derived and depict different bright hues of the gems (each one more striking than the next) – the insides of Moonga are ocean deep coral, while Heera proudly glistens in fiery and sparkling white. Every cabin has large panoramic windows – an engineering design marvel – just so that the guests can savour every bit of incredible India through their journey and see the landscape evolve from plains to desert to forest as they connect with nature in a way they haven’t done before. While one might expect compactness in living on a train, quite the contrary. Guests retreat to their own private sanctuary which, like any luxury hotel, is fitted with all modern amenities and have well sized en suite bathrooms. Design and planning has ensured that there isn’t an aspect where this special train lacks excellence. That the train is constantly on the move did not deter the Indian Railways’ engineers from providing live satellite television, direct dial telephone and Wi-Fi to keep guest au courant. A special effort has been put into curating the food and wine offer on the train, and a more than special effort goes into ensuring that the kitchen is stocked with all requirements – there is no corner shop from where the missing ingredient can be bought during the journey should they be missed! Two dining cars are dedicated to the two speciality restaurants – Mayur Mahal (the palace of the national bird of India, the colourful peacock) and Rang Mahal (the palace of colours) – both decorated with special Presidential Suite Junior Suite FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 165

Mayur Mahal Safari Bar 166 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017 hand painted fresco ceilings that exemplify the characteristic decor. The Maharajas’ Express crest adorns the bespoke gold-filled chinaware which is specially imported. Complemented by the intricately etched glassware, the table settings spell luxury, on which the chefs serve their very elaborate menus of diverse Indian and international specialities. And a carefully chosen list of champagne, wines and spirits gives guests an opportunity to enjoy pairings with food, or just to unwind with fellow guests over drinks at the Rajah Club or at the Safari Bar! “King size beds that are studded with jewels, cabins that stand up to luxury hotel shame, hospitality that the royals of yore would envy. Maharajas' Express is not just a journey, but a lifestyle – godly bliss”, the management proudly claims. The Maharajas’ Express is quite special, to say the least. Emphasis is on bringing an out-of-this-world experience to the guests and to maintain a very high standard throughout the journey. And with that, an additional self-imposed focus on guest expectation, satisfaction and accessibility that has been seen as a game changer in the travel world. A multi-lingual personal butler is assigned to each residential coach. “The domain of our ever-attentive butler, who appears, genielike, a shy smile on his face, every time we enter the coach – no matter the hour. It would be rare to find this level of service in a conventional luxury hotel but in the close confines of an evermoving train, it’s truly impressive,” reads a guest testimonial. Personalised levels of service add to the pleasures of the high-maintenance traveller. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 167

Agra first-thing-in-the-morning to the natural grandeur of the big cats of Ranthambore or the tranquillity of the historical ceremonies on the ghats of the Ganges in Varanasi. Off the train, cultural experiences are re-inforced – this is a well-planned immersion that deep dives into the world of diversity that India has to offer – an exhibition elephant polo match in the historic courtyards of a monumental fort, lunch or high tea with the royals in their palaces or a sundowner flute of champagne among the sand dunes of the Thar. And so that this may be offered effortlessly to each travelling guest, the accommodation capacity is capped at 88. IRCTC officials claim that they have never failed to provide complete satisfaction to their guests in all the runs till date, something that they are very proud of – and rightly so. Another feather in their cap – Maharajas’ Express bagged the title of the “World's Leading Luxury Train” at the World Travel Awards each year from 2012 to 2016. 168 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The star of the show is still the journey itself. A blend of rich cultural heritage, ancient testimonies and local artefacts that all blossom under the modern lifestyle, which gracefully adds a special dimension to the already extraordinary experience. The “streak of burgundy” as the train is named by passersby who see it race along the perimeter of what were 12 former princely states – from the romantic splendour of the Taj Mahal in Maharajas’ Express is listed to be the among the most expensive luxury trains in the world. Yet, the supreme sophistication and the general sense of the traditions and grand history of India does not take away from the great carnivallike atmosphere on-board. It is a mesmerising Indian odyssey which the royals would surely approve – a unique experience that the world could surely know more about. The pure indulgence that Maharajas’ Express offers is true to its style and name, and is, without a doubt, beyond gold standard that can make the guests feel like “Maharaja’s and Maharani’s for a week”. >

LAMBO Lamborghini Aventador 170 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Summer 2014 O RGHINI Success through Persistence Text: Pekka Nuikki Photos: Lamborghini C ompetition is a good thing. It generates new things and creates progress. It produces winners. In the world of car manufacturers, competition is the bread and butter. It keeps product development going and ensures the creation and adoption of innovations. Audi wants to top Mercedes-Benz and BMW aims to be better than the others put together. The most classic example of competition between auto makers is the Mercedes S Class, which is seen as a watershed in automotive quality and product development. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 171

Whenever the latest model in the series is released, competitors work to surpass it by coming out with even more advanced models. This in turn makes the engineers at Mercedes-Benz work even longer days and so it all goes round. This results in ever better, safer, more ecological and more forward-looking cars. There are many winners and one of them is the consumer: you. But what happens when a tractor manufacturer decides to challenge the sovereign of the automotive world – no less than Ferrari, the pioneer of motor racing – and build a sports car to top them all? If the excellence of a car were measured simply by what people will pay for it, then the Ferrari 250 series from the 1960s must contain by far the best cars in the world. The prices paid for these specimens are on an entirely different plane to those of other vehicles. Not everyone has always agreed on their superiority, however; perhaps least of all the Italian diesel tractor manufacturer Ferruccio Lamborghini. 172 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Summer 2014 Lamborghini 350 GT On a warm spring morning some fifty years ago, Ferruccio turned up on Enzo Ferrari’s doorstep to knock insistently on the door. He had decided to express his dissatisfaction with his car in person, directly to the CEO. Enzo, who was well aware of his position and for whom clients were just a tool for funding the company’s racing cars, gave the guest a frigid welcome. Ferruccio was not satisfied with the quality of his Ferrari. Especially the clutch and the power transmission were continuously causing problems. Enzo, amused, responded that Ferruccio seemed to know much more about tractors than he did about sports cars, and casually showed him the door. This caused Ferruccio’s Italian blood to boil as he exited. He swore to himself he would build a better sports car than Enzo’s. This gave birth to a competition that has benefited many, but above all Ferrari­– because they if anyone needed a challenger. That challenger remains its arch enemy to this day. Ferruccio kept his promise and set up a car factory bearing his own name, next to his trac- tor plant. His objective was simple: to beat Ferrari and to do it soon. He decided to build better sports cars and to treat his customers better, whatever the cost. The first Lamborghini sports car was presented already in the following year’s Turin Auto Show. It was no coincidence that the model number of Lamborghini’s first road car followed but had to surpass Ferrari’s model, being named 350GT. On its release in 1964, it was better made, faster, quieter and more controllable than the similar yet more expensive Ferrari 250 GT. Unfortunately, Ferruccio himself paid the highest price for the car, as for every model 350 that was manufactured, he lost USD 1,000. Ferrari’s Tamer The 350 GT is the precursor of all later V12 Lamborghini supercars. Motor engineer Giotto Bizzarrini, who had designed Ferrari’s legendary GTO engine, now created a completely new, 12-cylinder aluminium engine to go beneath the bonnet of the 350 GT. Its performance was completely breath-taking in relation to the standards of the day. With 3.5 litres, it was bigger and more powerful than the comparable Ferrari. It produced a full 360 hp, which was enough to give the concept car a top speed of 280 kilometres per hour. The 350 GT production model, launched the next year, was slightly tamer at 280 hp, but even that was enough to beat Ferrari with a top speed of 256 kph. In addition to the superior engine, the car had a modern five-speed transmission (the Ferrari only had four gears), as well as four camshafts (compared to Ferrari’s two). Ferruccio could quite confidently claim to have won the first round. In the next round, Ferruccio went straight for the knockout by presenting one of the most beautiful cars that had ever been seen. The sleek styling of the Lamborghini Miura captivated the audience at the 1966 Geneva Motor Show. Its power characteristics followed the same principles of the 350 GT, but the now four-litre, 12-cylinder V engine was placed transversely behind the cockpit, while the transmission and differential formed a single unit mounted onto the FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 173

Lamborghini 400 GT Jamara Lamborghini Espada chassis beneath the engine. In this way the car could be very low, measuring just over one metre in height. Its 350 hp made the Miura the fastest production car of its time, with a top speed of 280 kph. It was the first real supercar. With further development over the years, the most powerful version of the engine, the SV, produced 385 hp and was the first Lamborghini to reach speeds of 300 kph. The V12 engine from the Miura was also used in the front-engined Islero, presented in 1968, as well as in the Jarama 400 GT (where it produced 350 hp) and the futuristic Espada (325 hp). In 1974, the Espada was the first Lamborghini to have an automatic transmission. Lamborghini Countach 174 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Leap into Space The first proper generation shift after the Miura took place in the early 1970s. Expectations were high after the sensational Miura. The prototype of its successor, the Countach, was first shown at the Geneva show in 1971, and it was as if it had dropped from another planet. The aggressively angular and dramatic shape drew another gasp from the audience. Ferruccio knocked out not only the public but also Ferrari, whose newest cars looked modest and outdated beside the Countach. (Appropriately, the Piedmontese word countach means an astonished intake of breath upon seeing a beautiful woman). The sharp, wedge-shaped form of the Countach Lamborghini Countach

FINE Summer 2014 Lamborghini Espada would resurface forty years later in Lamborghini’s newest supercar, the Aventador. The ultra-modern design by Marcello Gandini, who had also drawn the Miura, suited an expanded five-litre version of the V12 engine. That version blew up during a test drive, however, so Gandini decided to stick to refining the more reliable four-litre model. The 1973 Countach was airy and beautiful without the later 1980s wing or spoiler. The engine was mounted longitudinally behind the driver, producing 375 hp and giving the car a maximum speed of 300 kph. Over the following years the Countach engine underwent a number of modifications based on the initial V12 engine. Many consider the 1985 Quattrovalvole (four-valve) model to be the best and most harmonious Countach. It had an impressive 455 hp. It was also the first Countach I ever got to drive. That moment in all its awfulness has been branded in my memory as an example of how far expectations based on preconceptions can be from actual reality. A friend of mine in London had offhandedly let me have his Lambo for the weekend, even leaving the keys to the kerbside vehicle on top of the back left wheel. Such 80s innocence! Having opened the scissor door, it took me a while to work out how to lower myself into the one-metre-high missile. The sense of claustrophobia increased with the tight grip of a two-point seat belt, which did not come as standard in the Lambo. At least I had a direct FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 175

Aventador: named after one of the bravest bulls in history Following in the company’s tradition, Lamborghini’s new flagship bears the name of a bull – this time a particularly brave specimen from the Spanish world of bullfighting. Aventador entered the fray in the bull ring in Zaragoza in October 1993, earning the “Trofeo de la Peña la Madroñera” trophy for its extreme courage. and immediate connection with the car – contrary to that with the outside world. Visibility from the car was terrible, and there was no rear visibility at all, really, despite a periscope-like rearview mirror. The car also lacked air conditioning, for which I would soon curse it. Key in the ignition, a few taps on the gas and off I go – or so I imagined. The V12 started up with a laborious wheeze, after which the cockpit was filled by its deep growl. Now I was completely sealed off from the outside. Clutch down, into gear and kick away from the kerb; easier said than done. I am still ashamed to admit it took me a whole twenty minutes to get the Lambo out of the parking space and into traffic. The clutch was incredibly heavy and, according to my friend, would not put up with any slippage. Depressing it took a whole lot of strength, and no matter how much I stood on the clutch I couldn’t get the car into reverse. When I finally got the car to shift, I had a problem with the steering. At first I thought the steering wheel lock must still be on, because the wheel wouldn’t turn an inch. The over two metres of width in the body of the car and the wid- 176 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA est tyres available for ready money made sure I was drenched in sweat before I could get any enjoyment out of the Lambo. The Call of the Motorway The nearest motorway was ten kilometres away. Navigating the narrow suburban roads, having to stop at countless traffic lights and dodge the gazes of curious onlookers, I managed to stall the car over a dozen times. The clumsy and outlandish Countach was like an escaped circus elephant in the city. All comfort and driveability had been sacrificed at the altar of performance and extreme design, leaving the driver with a knife at his throat. In my mind’s eye I could picture my overheated blood running from my veins into the depths of this mechanical monster and boiling around me twice as fiercely. I felt I was at the heart of an erupting volcano. When, an eternity later, I saw the light in the form of the motorway opening before me, I let it all out by putting the gas pedal down with all my remaining strength. Molten lava burst out from the bellowing engine’s core, as if following orders from the god of thunder, leaving a long black scorch mark on the road. The rev counter spun and the world exploded into infinite atoms around me. My field of vision narrowed and my mind focused as the pressure on my chest was relieved and my breathing became easier. I managed to bring the raging beast under control and started trying to tame it. The steering closely obeyed my orders and the engine reacted sensitively to every movement of the gas pedal. The only thing I could not subdue was the roaring of the engine, which I could still hear the next day. We learned to trust each other, but that is all. This was no love story beginning, the journey home through the darkening, congested London evening made sure of that. Anyone dreaming of a real sports car should experience the Countach once. After that they might be more than happy with their Mondeo. The Bravest Bull in History A quarter of a century later, I approach Lamborghini’s latest “Countach”, the Aventador, with slight trepidation. Again, it has been parallel parked. The memories come flooding back and

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which carries the name of the bravest bull in history. The ignition envelops the surrounding world in a far-ranging low, rumbling sound. The futuristic dashboard, which dominates the interior, also comes to life. Indicators come up on an innovative, state-of-the-art TFT LCD monitor, which is reminiscent of modern airplanes. Having placed the gearbox safely in automatic, I set off. The soundscape is complex and totally selfassured. The sound waves seem to emanate directly from the heat of the 6.5-litre V12 engine, rippling with all of its 700 horsepower. This time, there is air conditioning to keep their scalding glow from distracting the driver. Each of the elements of the Aventador is superior to those of the Countach, the acceleration and speed being from a whole different world (0–100 in 2.9 seconds and maximum speed exceeding 350 kph), but still my memory of the Countach is that it felt faster. In a way it is no wonder, because without the Countach there would be no Aventador. “The Aventador LP 700-4 brings the future of supercars to today. This exceptional package of innovative technologies is completely unique, and its performance is simply unrivalled,” says Stephan Winkelmann, President and CEO of Automobili Lamborghini. “In terms of design and technology, the Aventador skips a generation. It is a totally new kind of Lamborghini, but at the same time a direct and consistent continuation of the values of the Lamborghini brand. It is extreme in both design and performance; uncompromising in its quality and technology, and clearly Italian in its style and perfection. All in all, the dynamic nature and technical superiority of the Aventador LP 700-4 make it an entirely matchless specimen in the arena of supercars.” Every Lamborghini is a purist’s dream – a core pared down to essentials. The Countach was an extreme manifestation of that, and the Aventador follows in this tradition but on modern conditions. With this car, the Lamborghini designers have taken their philosophy to a whole new level. Its razor-sharp forms represent a kind of precision and purposefulness that cannot be found elsewhere in the automotive world. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Summer 2014 a shiver raises the hairs on my arms. I circle the car tentatively, like a matador. The Aventador is aesthetically imposing. Design at Lamborghini means the aggressive beauty of power and the elegance of breath-taking dynamics. From the first glance the Aventador is clearly a Lamborghini, dressed in the brand’s characteristic and uniquely sharp style. It has extremely strong proportions, clean lines and impeccable surfaces, and every detail is distinguished by intense muscularity. It is an avant-garde artwork, an unbelievably dynamic sculpture all the way from its sharp nose, along the very low hood, up to the unusual back. Every line has a clear purpose and every shape is determined according to the need for speed. The overall look is impressive. Unable to resist the temptation, I lower myself into the car. The Aventador is surprisingly spacious. Unlike my first Lambo, a Gallardo, this one surrounds me with high-quality materials, beautifully finished Italian workmanship, and the latest technology. The most important switch – the ignition – is hidden beneath a red flap. It immediately brings to life the V12 engine of this car, 179

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FINE Summer 2014 p. hel to ms e se us ref disas are s er t o t r t a t of e la ers sp t th ngine of it e kind u b y erlo, am is e man e s onsid nel ets h t h a a t r h a c g t is uild ter, rM ini ds ll h nea borgh nd fin s to b h bet ing a ari r e d a c r Lam e GT decid t mu spen as Fe bu th . He ut ng ( e l , o f e b l l b ith ci ta rd imse da it w tor ra , profi h n s a r e st ca mo new do rts a ve he spo at if pensi into it x th e n g r in on d tu ul ney N mo he co OR , ) S B r com .A, I did ess. D a n . c N Sp si s A bu BR ed hi ghini lly R t r ica CA bo tar TS hini s Lam 3. Typ n R O io rg 96 ll tow SP bo y1 ucc 3: A Lam i Ferr in Ma a sma efully 6 19 ccio obil car plant na, on in ru m as i og Fer Auto , Bol locat na w ction e du ata log ny, pa nt’Ag ini, th d Bo n pro in the for r h a e g an m es in S mbor ena -mod metr f roo ctor d o a a a e o r r L t t y l M a t s r u of squ plen ner ’ n the een . His 0 w d w i t 0 d a o be dere 50,0 th he cated r s. I si ot of eld ose t lso lo moto as con sted fi l h si sa sc the such lus con le of wa . It wa ri” – d ses o n s d a rie i Mot o hou o mid sion t c t d an r fa erra me exp eate ad “T so ho i. e h yh l t th str aries s a Duca u and le of a w ind , sal l d at nd s ve nci mid ry th rati a oti orker l cou t m n o a se aut illed w e loc ange cou ri, Ma k a the th exch r s r e h v nd Fe ug i ga d in ho da Alt alifie rghin ee an qu mbo rant a a hly hig low. L nt gu re oyme e w pl em an he n. T lders i loa u e ar. eb fre st- on th t a ye e r e e us int n in j sur ha erm pres eted t wit ry l t g p u d n e p e a lo tor com lazon the v b ved direc t was n i e o e m h rec tient and i e, e ready der t mdg a t ba nd al rn un ull sy imp plan y n ou r. Bo he b ing pa the ef of com uld b rts ca ved t hrust e t o lo Th l, co wn er i sp l bu rghin ound his o y r f d o r. ang amb s, the sente racte t L auru epre ha s c r fi f T , it r uous no t sig or him impe ed l. F imes low o b fol k tt s a wa wea and 0s T EN e 196 rom a ned M E f th ing f ghte r TIR RE cess o , aris nd ti tracto : 3 a s s c 7 e a 0 s – u g 7 s 2 w te 197 eady the 19 ispu . A hu ment d t p h n l e n e hel is i ver ark tria Th cris indus US m an go 72. To rruca i , e 9 by my n the Boliv e in 1 ss, F n the no e i o t e eco ation ith th minu busin take rges s o y w t st ul e r n a g e e l re in ce tor G e ad h h r t c e m s a t p e al 51 da inv the gm de elle rmin old a wiss sold ague c n s a S e le ca his f ini the ter h ’s col lso d rgh to la ti a t r e fun mbo urer e a t a t ye Ross me h tha c L e a i f d n o t l o u t ci O o e n s t i. , m ma nd ett on cen e sa s, a orati car Ross per th s e i d p 9 n 4 nr sin cor e. He ning . Arou r bu ME al nam r to ai A e c S m a m n r re Lei his t talian origi I né in its g Re h r n i t i e t t fa mpe t und i los co s n e th l ru to stil ich h w s nes usi b er com n eat is h valve is so h h on ter ng ung d wa ointi patrih ly he App the , . i on , rita blis hin esta mica latter a Fio he g r a y L bo dt ntl the tate, din live Lam rece Oleo or of s e e , h a t d c re are ola and name dire ect 1. He nicar ned a h e 7 a 2 e th ny pa o as a 3 t in 19 r in P d op to n e h in a g d w n , e u o o r To eti ad bo ne-gr imen hr i life e h hy w e Tras arc h his l t h l l k d a a a ic ho wh a we to L olle . i, w ves r is se seum of n i o l e e h lif le rg oh a, c e mu is s bo kt bri t am ith h t bac tradiUm priva L cio me w wen all the ay, ruc o sm n, ith Gam is w Fer t at h actio ds s se, n. H mo t the is lan iove igno li t l s l fe dh ng ang auv Co had amo tivate s of S net S ame l r n n e i ) u i ” , e be up . He c ariet e Ca eno r th v nd unde rasim angu ts e a o p t a S ro r T o d l s g f r e s a Me arket cks o own nal ini’ tio iolo, rgh ound m ne y kn o e s l g b f t a t ie rl Cil ine w (“Bo pula ”. Lam have o . w eno ra p u d and ands i e re r f M ards sim ecam b o a r d w ty the r di T oon b Bloo ral a quali e ted t s , i.e. “ seve topn u a Ord r b ra on fine, s g d the He u i w a w . di M have ong rde ini ro) am rgh d awa Lavo ebrues o n e i b l w n lac de 0F am ea ir p io L ator aliere k on 2 wn of c the c d ru to av ac en Fer omm ur (C rt att home o a C s b e i f a ah in h rL eo titl rit fo from ried u e y b M wa was of da sse , and a p 3 199 ary zo. naz Re FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 181

182 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: Corinthia Hotel Budapest

FINE Winter 2018 SPOTLIGHT FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 183

T he landmark Chain Bridge on the River Danube links the glory of the past on the Buda side and that of the future on the Pest side in Hungarian Capital Budapest – the “Pearl of the Danube” – a stimulating blend of tradition and contemporary culture which is at the heart of Hungarian creativity. The natural setting of the city, its inspired architecture that say their piece, bustling and diverse culture, glorious heritage dating back many centuries – all string together to create an unparalleled offer to take a pick from. Photo: Singhal 2018 The ‘Spa City’ for a good part of the post war years, its world famed thermal baths were identified by the Roman legionaries almost 2000 years ago. It is estimated that almost 70 million litres of thermal waters gush out of 123 natural hot springs and drilled wells – the healing powers are legendary! 184 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA A culinary revolution has not been far behind. The celebrated creations of Hungarian cuisine can be savoured in the fingerlicking street food and the fusion menus at haughty establishments. From Michelin starred restaurants to vibrant bars to cruise boat restaurants on the river to pubs – an ultitude of gastronomic delights are precious treasures that make the soul of the city tick. >

FINE Winter 2018 © Bock Bistro BOCK BISTRO THE NEW YORK CAFÉ Much awarded chef Lajos Biro is notorious for being straight-forward and very outspoken – his first book is titled “I’m too much”. He leased the boulevard facing west wing of the Corinthia Royal Budapest Hotel to set up Bock Bistro, where the fare is a modern take on local dishes – a fusion of Spanish tapas inspired by traditional Hungarian cuisine – served in a casual, inviting and friendly ambience with an outstanding wine list selected by the acclaimed winemaker József Bock from only the best Hungarian local varieties. Dating back to the turn of the 20th century, this eclectic Italian Renaissance-style edifice headquartered the New York Life Insurance company – hence the name, the New York Palace – and was home to nobility and artists. Restored to its original grandeur in 2006, this café on the Erzsébet Korut on the Pest side of the city, has earned the title, “The most Beautiful Café in the World”. “No one has gone broke just because he tried to please his guests”, the team focusses on the basic tenets of hospitality – create excellent dishes of high quality, use only the finest and local ingredients, and serve them with style. Beautifully plated, generously large servings paired with an enjoyable glass by the in-house Sommelier and live accordion music wow diners. The awards have also come through – recommended by the Michelin Guide and Bib Gourmand among a whole cabinet of awards – but the “most important thing is still the guest’s satisfaction”. Bock Bistro Erzsébet körút 43-49, 1073 Budapest T: + 36 1 3210 340 • E: info@bockbisztro.hu Magnificent frescoes dating back to the mid 19th century adorn the ceiling. Venetian glass, marble columns, rich brocade and gilded stuccoes complete the ornate décor – the place has a lovely Belle Époque charm – an inspiration for intellectuals and cultural visionaries. Actively part of the city’s gastronomic renaissance, the menu pays tribute to the multi-cultural cuisine of the AustroHungarian monarchy with classic dishes like Beef Goulash, Fishermen Soup and Chicken Leg Paprikash-style, not to forget famous desserts such as the Eszterházy cake. New York Café Erzsébet körút 9-11, 1073 Budapest T: +36 1-8866-167 www.newyorkcafe.hu © The New York Café FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 185

186 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Photo: Arvydas Venckus/unsplash.com

It could well be largest wine bar in Budapest – 360 wine references with a wide selection from Hungary and the world of which a constantly changing selection of 60 wines are offered by the glass! And to top that, almost any bottle is opened at the request of the guest. FINE Winter 2018 VERITAS WINEBAR Tucked away in a vibrant district off Erzsébet körút on the Pest side, Veritas is a cool and stylish place. A place where wines can be discovered by wine virgins or dissected by wine lovers or flaunted by the wine snobs. The owner, István Pátzay, believes that “frequenting a wine bar is a lifestyle choice..”, and has tried to make sure that prices don’t come in the way of vinos becoming regulars at any time of the day. Keeping up with modern and healthy eating trends, the food offer is mostly curated with local, artisan and organic ingredients. © Veritas Winebar Veritas Wine Bar Dohány utca 58-62, 1074 Budapest VII T: + 36 30 471 0748 • E: info@veritaswinebar.hu www.veritaswinebar.hu GERBEAUD Gerbeaud is among the most treasured gastronomic assets of Hungary. Traditions have been preserved through the two wars, a revolution and many owners, even if the business has required evolution from when it was founded in 1858. Gilded interiors, lavish chandeliers, polished marble and intricately carved wooden features adorn the Maison Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty tér which was reopened in 2010 following a grand make-over. This is where Budapest converges to sin on finger-licking desserts at the opulent café on the square or the laidback terrace or onthe-go. Hailing from a family of pâtissiers, Emile Gerbeaud, made his brand a landmark – the cakes were immortalized by popular songs and the packaging was a work of art. The name-sake Gerbeaud cake is synonymous with the city. No visit is complete without it. Not content to sit on laurels, current owners Katalin Pintér and Anna Niszkács have carried forward the spirit of innovation and introduce new flavours and textures to their patrons. The signature Gerbeaud 160 created by Chef Tamás László – for the 160th Anniversary – was such a creation. Gerbeaud Confectionery Vörösmarty Square 7-8, 1051 Budapest T: +36 1 429 9000 © Gerbeaud FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 187

Vibrant and inspiring. Glamorous and timeless. Relaxed and very affordable. These adjectives would usually not be taken in the same breath. Kollázs Brasserie & Bar is the contemporary brasserie at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace. Derived from the Hungarian word for “collage”, the understated experience mirrors the creative permutations in the warm welcoming design that bridges the old and the new, the eclectic blend of local and international flavours, and the presentations that span authentic rustic to contemporary. All well thought of, by the chef, Árpád Győrff. Photo: Csaba Barbay KOLLAZS – BRASSERIE AND BAR The Gresham Palace was built in a “Secession” style for the aristocracy at the turn of the century. A near perfect site at the foot of, and almost in alignment with, the Chain Bridge on the east bank of the Danube River. The palace embodies historic grandeur and youthful exuberance. Diligently restored to bring together almost two million mosaic tiles, an ornate Preciosa chandelier, grand stairways and winter gardens, it opened as a Four Seasons Hotel in 2004. The Funicular 188 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA © Kollazs – Brasserie and Bar Photo: Singhal 2018 Kollazs – Brasserie & Bar Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest Széchenyi István Tér 5-6, 1051 Budapest T +36 1 268 5408 • E: reservations@kollazs.hu www.kollazs.hu

FINE Winter 2018 CAVIAR & BULL The most recent entrant has taken the Budapest restaurant scene by storm. “The minute you stand still, you automatically move back”, very thoughtful words of the very eminent Maltese Chef Marvin Gauci who has focussed on successfully raising the bar, ‘one incredible dish at a time’ – and seized the lease to open in the Corinthia Royal Budapest Hotel. Marvin hops tables, engaging his guests in tales about his restaurants and capturing valuable feedback from them – careful to sit down with only those who might be keen to share a conversation. An insider view of the kitchen is the special treat for a seat at the Chef’s Table. The menu is a delicious combination of colour, texture, scent and taste. Largely Mediterranean, it has a strong Hungarian imprint and is based on local produce as it targets the coveted Michelin rating. Served in a fine fine-dining setting, one is advised to ignore the cutlery and enjoy eating with hands! A unique experience that is based on views, hues and symphony of taste. © Caviar & Bull Caviar & Bull Erzsébet körút 43-49, 1073 Budapest T: +36 30 8 32 32 32 www.caviarandbull.com ONYX Onyx Restaurant was born when Katalin Pintér of the Gerbeaud Gasztronómia Kft. set out to give Hungary a haute cuisine restaurant of international acclaim. The 55 cover restaurant is housed on the first floor of Maison Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Square. The interiors share a glimpse into the cuisine – the ornate palatial interiors blend with the modern cabinets showcasing the wine. Building on the legendary traditions, Chef Ádám Mészáros, focusses on innovation and new techniques to create the dishes on the menu using the finest regional ingredients. The “Within Our Borders” menu emphasizes the highest quality domestic components and the “Beyond Our Borders” menu focusses on the creativity and imaginations of the chefs. A unique culinary indulgence and adventure through re-interpreted, extravagantly executed Hungarian dishes. Onyx was awarded the first Michelin star in 2011 (and every year since). The second star in 2018 made it uniquely the very first Two Michelin Star restaurant in Hungary. © Onyx Onyx Restaurant Vörösmarty tér 7-8, 1051 Budapest T: +36 30 508 0622 • E: onyx@onyxrestaurant.hu www.onyxrestaurant.hu FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 189

Text: Some Name 190 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017 Wine Paradise TEXT: Rajiv Singhal PHOTOS: Hedonism Wines As you fleet past the big toy boys on Mayfair’s Berkeley Square, a brightly painted cycle cart decorated with fresh flowers on the pavement outside a large glass walled store calls out for your attention. It could be the Westminster City Council’s new art installation or a new designer who’s found home in London’s Golden Mile – but it isn’t. The name board above reads Hedonism Wines, and inside are shelves and shelves loaded with bottles and bottles of wines and champagnes (and spirits). FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 191

Yevgeny Chichvarkin Tatiana Fokina 192 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Alistair Viner

FINE Winter 2017 Y evgeny Chichvarkin, made his fortune (and a rather large one) in the business of mobile phones retail with more than 5200 outlets in various states of the Russian Federation and neighbouring countries – he had made his place on the billionaire oligarchs list but had to exile himself (and his family) in unfortunate circumstances to London, where some years were spent “sorting out” but he emerged. Retailing runs in his blood. Once a retailer, always one… Done with mobile phones, he thought of fashion. But somewhere between his own quirky fashion sense and the short expiry dates on seasonal collections, he dumped the thought in favour of wine – he is a hedonist in everything food and wine – an avid wine drinker who identified a gap in what was the domain of the St. James’ gents. “My dream was to create a one-stop shop – far better than what existed at that time – with knowledgeable, friendly and faster customer service and the largest range of fine and rare and everyday wines available off the shelf – that would make modern Londoners appreciate a completely new level of experience in wine”, recalls Yevgeny. He neither had the property nor the wine, but to realise this daunting dream of creating “the best wine shop in the world”, he hired young Tatiana Fokina – a perfectionist who shared his work ethic and passion for wine (though not his fashion sense) – as the first employee and Chief Executive. To get a grip on the wine trade, they both approached Alistair Viner, who had been with Harrods for the last 15 years. A genuine, forthright and instinctive conversation between them led to an instant connect that put to rest any thoughts about a pipe dream that was never going to happen. “From the very hour, we were all singing the same hymn sheet”. Alistair traded the limitations and restrictions that he was working in (even if very secure) with the excitement of painting a plain he is a hedonist in everything food and wine FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 193

white canvas with a high level of flexibility and independence to join as Head Buyer. “It's not just a job, it's not work...it's life” With his dream team in place, Yevgeny choosing not to drive Hedonism but collaborate with Tatiana and Alistair on the path forward. In realizing his dream, he identified Service and Assortment as the key influencers for reputation leading to sales leading to success. In the market, they were met with “unbelievable scepticism” – the wine trade, licensing authorities, press, and even the residents who insisted on taking matters to court. But nothing dithered Yevgeny, Tatiana and Alistair from their belief in the founding vision. They zeroed in on a really large 700 square metre location (Yevgeny absolutely insisted upon this) on Davies Street and started to build the venture brick-by-brick, quite literally – each one has laid their own and remembers where! “The venture has a very strong Russian character – it is big, bold, beautiful and forward looking. I inherited the brand name Hedonism, which raised some eyebrows – but it defines us”, says Tatiana. Hedonism – the wines and spirits store – opened in 2012 as a destination where wine lovers could spend time, taste wines and buy what they wanted without intimidation. It is an unusual wine store for London – private, dark, cold, cobwebbed cellars have given way to bright and shiny, open racks waited upon by friendly staff. Hedonism could be mistaken for a furniture shop – the seemingly endless lines of interesting security tagged bottles that come in all shapes and sizes lend to a very welcoming, lively, cordial ambience and temptation to stop and browse. Built on two levels, the store has no windows – only glass walls. The showpiece chandelier custom created from 125 hand-blown Reidel wine goblets; the antique look staircase custom built by a Welsh company that has started to show signs of aging with peoples’ footmarks; and an old vine add to the vinous character. The wines treasures include the Sine Qua Non cellar where the bottles are held by Mickey Mouse, Octopus, Dinosaurs hands; the Chateau d’ Yquem glass showcase that holds an impressive and envious collection of vintages lit by motion sensors; the vaults that hold the oldest and most precious (mostly Bordeaux) including in large formats; the collections of old vintage Champagne 194 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017 and Montrachet; and the £120,000 Penfolds Ampoule of which only 12 were ever released from Australia. The tasting area downstairs has a row of Enomatics that dispense upto 48 wines by the glass that are specially selected, are always changing and are priced very sensitively. Alistair explains, “it's a great tool to encourage people to drink the right wine, better wine and, just like your FINE magazine, educate them to hone their tastes”. The large wooden tasting table in this area has colourful spittoons, wine spills and tasting notes scribbled all over giving it a distinctive character – the handprints of Yevgeny, Tatiana and Alistair on the surface seem to “stamp” their involvement! Hedonism is a different experience, one where people who enjoy wine, enjoy wine. A wine lover proposed to his wine lover girlfriend at Hedonism. He chose a wine shop to be this special spot and the Chief Executive of Hedonism felt blessed. The very regular tastings are steadily embedding into the London wine calendar – after all Harlan Estate, Screaming Eagle, Haut Brion, Dom Pérignon don’t hop over the pond(s) that often. Tatiana thinks that for makers and owners, it is an opportunity to understand drinking preferences and build relationships. “They notice how educated about wines (and spirits) our customers are”. Hedonism counts students, office goers, anyone keen to learn about a new wine, regular shoppers, international vinos, royal families and A-list celebrities (some come with an entourage and many just walk in discreetly to be recognised only when they take off their glasses) as customers. Yevgeny also makes a very meaningful contribution to sales! Alistair takes pride in the fact that the service levels at Hedonism are the same irrespective of who you are and what you buy. “We tend all our customers without getting into their way and help them find what they may be looking for. It’s all about creating an experience. It’s like finding your tailor or your butcher – when you do, you don’t move.” For Alistair, the most difficult task has been to work on the product range that is interesting, eclectic and diverse because his brief was to have something for every Hedonism customer, alongwith quality being the first and foremost driver. Alistair succeeded in sourcing some good wine from some reliable sources and focused on buying great wine in the great vintages as opposed to an easier option of great It is an unusual wine store for London FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 195

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“Our focus is on the experience” wines in the off vintages. 10,500 products ranging from £10 to £20,000 are in stock in what Alistair calls “a relatively industrial type space with a feeling of warmth” – over 25,000 stock-keeping units have been created since the doors opened, even then, Hedonism sometimes can not offer what the customer is after. Provenance, specially in today’s day and age, was of critical essence for the fine wine story of Hedonism to play out – the bottles had to be perfect examples of what they were supposed to be. “Often, I’m off to the United States to meet the private collectors and see who the bottles were bought from and how the bottles have been stored – and only then, I sign the business.” Relations have also been built with the big auctioneers. “We stand by what we are selling,” announces Tatiana. Inspite of all the checks at the time of purchase, if there are issues with the provenance or the condition, it doesn’t matter if it is a magnum of 1961 198 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Bordeaux or a Napa Cab. “The amount is refunded (of course the case is investigated – you won’t get a refund if you walked in with an empty bottle of a wine that was bad). It is very important for us that the customer has confidence in Hedonism.” The management team at Hedonism has bitterly fought the clichéd perception of being a glitzy store for the elite/ billionaires, and the criticism of being a “hobby of the rich Russian owner” business. Both Tatiana and Alistair are visibly unhappy that this still persists, despite the fact that around 900 products in the store are priced at £30 or less, a glass of wine in tastings is about £2 and Champagne Moët et Chandon is cheaper than Waitrose. Many lines are price-matched individually and reviewed on a daily basis. I ask Alistair and Tatiana to pick their favourites in the shop. Alistair gives me an expected stock reply, “I like all my products. It’s difficult to say that they are better than others.” Tatiana is more forthcoming. “My favourite was a magnum

FINE Winter 2017 of the Krug Collection 1937 signed by the Krug brothers, Henri and Remi. We had had it since the opening and it was sold last year. It was good to see it go… I realized I had to be careful not to get attached to anything in store”. The venture has a very strong Russian character - big, bold… It makes Tatiana sad when a bottle of a 60 year-old grand vintage merely changes location from a bond house to the other, untouched and unseen by wine lovers, “clearly it was not made for that. Our customer, typically, buys for drinking now. It was so nice to receive a thank you email for the brilliant and so fresh magnum of Petrus 1961 that was bought from us the previous week.” Alistair is in agreement, “everything that went into the bottle was meant to be drunk for enjoyment, but people lost sight of that as tradability made it a commodity”. Would I get hired as a Wines & Spirits Adviser at Hedonism? Unlikely, because one needs to be knowledgeable, experienced a few years in the trade or retail or hospitality and qualified (at least a Level Three or Diploma), and have the “right” attitude for customer service, share the founders’ ethos and the ability to work independently or as a team with natural enthusiasm. And the team is small and not many leave. Tatiana emphasises, “our focus is on the experience and our staff adhere to pretty high standards to make our customers happy”. Designated members of the team are assigned to regulars, to anticipate and take care of their wine needs. But that does not hold her from stepping in – it is all about going that extra mile. On Christmas day a few years ago, she serviced a £200,000 order – the customer was flying out that very day and she opened the shop, packed everything and took it to the airport herself ! FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 199

Two Guinness world records are written to Hedonism’s name 200 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA “No other shop in London is as obsessed with customer service as we are,” Tatiana announces rather proudly. All mails addressed to Hedonism reach Tatiana’s inbox and are replied to very shortly. A customer complaint is taken very seriously and dealt with immediately. “A little bit of me dies when something goes wrong”. A very substantial investment (which no one was willing to disclose) was made in the lease and premium on lease, fit out, and the wines. Alistair recalls that, for all practical purposes, he had been given a blank cheque book to buy what he wanted, but hastened to add that he was very very prudent. In 2015, Hedonism hit break even and in 2016, even the rather ambitious financial targets were met – the business is showcased as the Top 100 Fastest Growing in the United Kingdom. “Last year, following Brexit, was our best year and best Christmas”. Two Guinness world records are written to their name – for the price of a bottle of Cognac sold at £220,000 and for the price of a bottle of Chateau d’ Yquem 1811 at £98,000 – last summer, which is also when the tills at Hedonism rung their largest single transaction touching a million pounds. Alistair laughs, “if you told someone at Chateau d’ Yquem in the early 19th century that more than two hundred years later this bottle of wine being bottled now would go on sale in London, they would have probably thrown you in the river to see whether you could float or not. And if you told them that it would sell for ninety eight thousand pounds, they would have classed you as being completely mad”. Having shocked the trade and forced some in the neighbourhood to change, Hedonism has steered the evolution of the wine retail landscape in London to more openness. Longer working hours and

FINE Winter 2017 weekend openings have received complete customer endorsement. The possibility of buying fine wine off-the-shelf is a reality. Wine lovers no longer need to have planned for weeks in advance to drink a particular bottle of a particular wine of a particular vintage from a particular region for a particular occasion. The spontaneity (and fun) of buying wine has been restored. Hedonism doesn’t afford a typical working day to Tatiana. “It’s not just a job, it’s not work, it’s my first baby, it’s life. It’s a tough one that takes some passion, drive and devotion. It has aged me mentally. No day is the same, but there are always exciting finds, excited customers, and excited tales. When I spot a Hedonism bag being carried in the streets, I still love it and get overly excited.” Looking back, Alistair is of the opinion that, “we have got a fairly big global reach with customers from around the world in a very short space of time. We are probably beyond where we possibly dreamt we could be by this time.” Tatiana confirms that “Hedonism has grown organically, and we are on course to our goals.” Yevgeny expects Hedonism to be the point of reference in wine retail. Our customer, typically, buys for drinking now. What will Hedonism look like on its 10th anniversary in 2022? A rare divergence in thought emerges. Tatiana thinks that opening another Hedonism doesn’t make sense, whereas Yevgeny would be happy to see lots of Hedonism’s around the world. Very cautious when they opened, Hedonism have cemented a position in the wine world as game-changers! > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 201

Putting the Royal in Champagne text: Ritu Singhal • photos: Royal Champagne 202 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019 C ocooned in the dense greens of the Parc Naturel Régional de Montagne de Reims, the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is the new luxury lodging under the Relais & Châteaux umbrella in the kingdom of bubbles that offers unparalleled panoramic views on the world heritage Vallée de la Marne from its vantage position. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 203

About an hour and a bit from Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, I am changed when the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa emerged from being driven on the D951 Voie de la Liberté, the arterial connection a long-winded fifty month re-construction in Fall 2018. between Reims and Epernay, by my charioteer in Champagne – the very ‘effervescent’ Tunisian born Mohammed aka Momo who co-owns the highly recommended limo service, Navette Doua. A detour through Champillon “...enjoy uninterrupted panoramic views...” with a royal connect – French Emperors would halt to rest the horses en route to the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims for their coronation. Napoleon Bonaparte stayed over a couple of times. The logo of Royal Champagne, that takes me to my destination – the rue de la république has been is widely used throughout the resort, pays homage to its loyal recessed to create a grand driveway and welcome area that befits celebrity guest – historically it depicted Napoleon’s horse and the 100,000 square feet edifice on four levels. Sandwiched between according to Parinaud, in its new avatar, the horse is related to the two Point de Vue of the village, Royal Champagne ticks all the great military statesman and his army. boxes on location! The architect, Giovanni Pace, let loose his creative expression In 2014, the Boston-based Champagne Hospitality Collection to strike a harmonious and playful balance between opacity and managed to secure the trade of this property from Baglioni Hotels, transparency with the Champagne landscape. He believes that the Italian luxury chain. Vincent Parinaud, the General Manager, “the building respects local materials that embrace nature; the who has been at the helm of the reincarnation since the very façade is finely carved out to let in light and the open spaces are beginning, recalls, “we tried really hard to retain some of the a window onto the landscape.” Pace’s signature style shows off history associated with the old property, but the structure was crumbling – sadly, there was pretty much nothing left to keep. We succeeded in salvaging two of the original façades at the entrance. 204 The site was an ancient coaching inn freedom of movement in grand spaces that lift the mood. Parinaud is so grateful that for once in his distinguished career, he isn’t struggling, “it’s the first time that I am opening a hotel which has We kept the name, the logo, and the view…” The locals eyed the more space than it actually needs”. And he only has 49 keys! project with suspicion, specially when the original structure (even The four levels in the main building arc around the ‘edge’ of the if decrepit and dilapidated) was pulled down. But, that seemingly hill – almost like an amphi-theatre – the guest accommodation is FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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FINE Winter 2019 on Levels 0 and 1, the restaurants and bars are on Level 2 as are the grapes are literally just a few metres away – we wanted our guests terraces and the wellness district is on Level -1 complete with an to experience the blending. The trees in the main garden line up outdoor infinity pool that almost embraces the vines. Every nook like in the vineyard so that continuity is maintained between the and corner of the resort offers its own special view – for me, those forest, the hill and the vines.” “...vines and grapes are literally just a few metres away... from the hanging gardens are most calm and tranquil. “Our idea is that whether our guests are in the room, the restaurant, the spa or in the swimming pool, they will enjoy uninterrupted panoramic views that they came to us for”, elaborates Parinaud. Champagne is considered an epitome of radiance and brilliance. The lighting is contemporary – bubbles and pendalogues (chandelier crystal drops) are individually suspended and seem to float in the air – till they come together into an optical illusion that reveals the avant garde design that reflects the abundant sunlight. The pièce de résistance is the grand chandelier that was put together with 37 gold-plated branches and flowers in white, blue, silver and gold with some clear crystals thrown in – it starts to unfold to those in the lobby and covers a vast expanse of the Salon Fines Bulles. To accentuate the cultural heritage of the region, the themes This Salon on Level 0 is my cosy living room during my stay. A of sparkling gold, seductive blush of rosé, and sophisticated butler is on call to serve my chosen champagne and top up flutes effervescence are unified in the design of the resort. The revered to quench my (and my guests’) thirst – if that is even remotely vines of the region have become the muse – the motif of the possible! A centre-piece glass cellar with a large well-fitted tasting grapevine’s twigs, leaves and flowers adorn the resort with a table make this Salon the place to be to experience the finest changing pallet of colours. Parinaud adds, “since we are right tastings by the sommeliers – they share exciting bottles (mostly between the reserve forest and the vineyards – the vines and champagne) and enticing tales about them. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 207

Limoges. Le Royal earned its own Michelin Star in its early days, and recently got its second. Executive Chef Jean-Denis Rieubland, Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, was seduced by the atypical challenges of a new luxury property in the middle of the champagne vineyards. Focussed on preserving traditional French know-how despite infusing a contemporary touch, Rieubland is blending the freshness of South of France flavours into the local cuisine. The menus change with every changing season, and the guests get a (delicious) onslaught of flavours. Parinaud continues, “we have to give the guest an experiential stay, which will be the differentiator. They come back not only for the bed and the pillow, but also for the service. Even when we are very busy, our guests never feel cramped. My team is open to serving food to the guest where he would like – actually on the bar counter if a guest wants – this is beginning to make a difference! We recognize that fixed hours just force guests to come up for breakfast. We encourage guests to order a traditional roast for lunch on Sunday – we prepare the chicken in front of the guest – we want to keep the tradition alive.” I take advantage of the extended hours at the restaurants, bars, and terrace to enjoy meals whenever, and wherever, I feel like. Late night hunger pangs are left to room service to satiate and they don’t disappoint. My ‘Tasting’ with the Sommelier was at the Chef’s Table – amidst all the tea time action in the squeaky clean stainless-steel kitchens – a privilege and a delight for the senses. “We didn’t inherit any cellars from our predecessors. So, we started from scratch to build our list. For now, we have got roughly 250 references of Champagne - from Reims, from Epernay, from Ay, from everywhere… We must represent the region of Champagne – this is very important for us – so the showcase champagne houses move on the champagne list, almost week, where possible”. Parinaud laments, however, that he has to balance his wish list with overall stocks and guest preferences. Fine food with great wine is an invincible combination – it can conquer all. Parinaud chooses to boast a bit, “we are a connoisseur’s fantasy and offer meals to remember for a long time in spectacular settings.” Le Royal is the gourmet table set beneath a gold-leafed ceiling from which 36 spheres of blown amber glass are suspended – all part of a modern light installation! Portraits of women who played a formative role in Napoleon’s life: Josephine, Marie Louise of Austria, Countess Marie Walewska and Désirée Clary (his first love) are placed in the four corners of the dining room. The calligrapher, Nicolas Ouchenir, pulled words directly from poems in Napoleon’s letters to these ladies to create a tableware collection that was custom produced by Mary Castel’s Maison Fragile in 208 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019 Local produce is widely used in every element of the food and very All rooms are large – of course they are, since space is not at a carefully chosen to grace the tables at Royal Champagne – it has to premium – and tastefully decorated in a classic French style. In be grown and cared for by someone who is a friend of the resort! neighbouring Paris, the size would categorise them as Junior The asparagus is from Chalons; goat cheese from the Laluc family Suites! Inspired by nature, pastel hued graphic renditions of the in the neighbourhood; lamb from the Pyrenees; fish from anglers in fleur de vignes adorn the walls, subtly different from the other. Brittany; and eggs from its own chicken coop! The honey is also made by the resort’s kitchen garden bees with the nectar of the champagne flowers. Biodynamically grown produce – a dozen varieties of tomatoes, classic purple “...we want to keep the tradition alive." Intricately crafted leather coffrets onthe-go enhance the guests’ pleasure – they can pop a bottle of their chosen champagne when they please. Guests can sink into their sofas and chaise loungers and enjoy the little room treats that the eggplant, carrots, lettuce, and more exotic black/ white eggplant, chefs send over. The private balcony (or terrace, depending on the fragrant peppers in all colours, Jerusalem artichokes – all that the level the room is on) is secured by glass panels – again to ensure chef could ask for. I couldn’t make the trip, but guests are invited unhindered views – the rays of the champagne sun stream into “to roam the groves, pick chestnuts and snack on strawberries in a the room and the postcard views are for the frames. one of-a-kind garden experience.” The stationery in the room hasn’t escaped the luxury touch. “The That the Royal Champagne management keeps its eye on local, is so guest directory in the rooms is Filofax, the pencil is different, the critical. Because, when fully occupied, the number of bodies in the paper in the little booklet to write notes is from a French company resort threaten to outnumber the mere 500 inhabitants in the village that makes the paper just for us, and the tasting journals are of Champillon that lends its address to the Royal Champagne Hotel leather wrapped with the long tie – it has all been thought through & Spa. very well,” Parinaud tells me. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 209

Decorated with custom-made fleur de vignes ceramic tiles that are boxing courses. Attention is paid to the welfare of the tiniest a mix of relief and embossing, the modern baths are well equipped, guests – children, as young as 7 years old, accompanied by adults complete with large purpose-built limestone sinks and spacious are welcome to take advantage of treatments to stimulate the body counters. Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès amenities pamper the and mind. guests. Snug robes, immaculately laid out salts and the inviting Parinaud is very proud that he works with a very passionate team bath-tub are indulging – homely comforts are being thrown into the stay. rest on his laurels. “We have brought something different, which “In the champagne region, the average stay of guests is just over we created this from nothing. We are actually quite happy that we one night. This we wanted to change and needed to give the guest have got people excited, but we will not stop here. It is important to a reason to stay for a little longer. So, we created a getaway from the hustle and bustle of daily life. But, even with all the comforts 210 “who bring the place alive” by giving their best. But he isn’t one to keep that momentum going. I must try to shake off the reputation (of being aloof) that I had when I arrived and make sure that the in the room, we needed a spa. This is our cherry on the cake – a locals are greeted on their special occasions, more often.” big cherry”, Parinaud shares with me. The world class facilities The Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is the piece that the Champagne spread over 15,000 square feet and offer swimming (in outdoor and region was missing – a luxury resort with a different identity where indoor pools), hammam, sauna, and fitness training. Salon Rose is guests can immerse in the ultimate Champagne lifestyle – the the welcome area for guests who dive into the French Biologique place to unwind. Another trip to find moments of quiet reflection Recherche skin treatments and other treatments. Salon Namaste in the Champagne region’s only destination spa and luxury five is the Indian connection, where yoga lessons are popular as are star hotel is already in planning. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

CASTLES CAPITAL CUISINE Text & Photos: Visit Luxembourg T he Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is a cosmopolitan and multi- cultural country in the heart of Europe, sharing borders with Belgium, France, and Germany. Luxembourg is a fairyland destination which offers unique sights for visitors of must-see remnants of the country’s illustrious past. There is something for everyone food and wine... a range of authentic experiences that move people and touch their hearts. 212 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA ©LFT_ThomasLinkel – heritage, culture, nature, industry,

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© Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT Useldange Castles Luxembourg has often been referred to as the "Gibraltar of the North", because of the strong and impregnable fortifications built by Louis XIV's fortress builder, Vauban. More than 50 castles that dot its landscape have been restored to their former beauty to reflect the rich heritage. The 17th century Renaissance Castle, Beaufort, in the Mullerthal region (Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland), is built on a medieval fortress from the 12th century. This castle is magnificently lit up when it is the backdrop for a very popular annual Rock Classic Festival in July/ August. Vianden 214 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA © Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT The oldest parts of the Clervaux Castle date back to the 12th century. Post-restoration, the castle is home to "The Family of Man" exhibition curated by the Luxembourg born and worldrenowned photographer Edward Steichen that was included in the UNESCO Memory of the World Register in 2003. The Bourscheid Castle from the 11th century impresses with its size – with its 12,000 square meters it is the Grand Duchy’s biggest castle in terms of surface. Bourscheid is perched 150 meters above the river Sûre and the castles 8 towers offer stand-out panoramic views. Towering above the Our valley, on the left bank of the river Rhine, the castle of Vianden (11th -17th century) is one of the greatest historic fortifications in Europe. Its silhouette impresses from far. The steep hike to reach the castle is well worth it – the castle is one of the most magnificently and intrinsically restored fortresses of the Grand Duchy. From

These are just some of the castles and fortresses, the plethora of remains from the medieval era, spread out across the heights of the Ardennes or the green slopes of the Guttland. The informative circular trail set up by the Service des Sites et Monuments Nationaux is another great way to discover life during that era and explore the ruins from close-up. It is unlikely that one will be disappointed with the historical relics that Luxembourg has to offer. F I N E Fa l l 2 0 2 0 the colourful chapel to the archaeological crypt, the knight hall to the weapons room without forgetting the banqueting hall, Vianden is perfect for those interested in medieval traditions and architecture. © Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT © Jos Nerancic/LFT Capital Built amid deep gorges cut by the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers, the city of Luxembourg is a modern city with very deep roots. The real mix of styles between the remnants of the past and contemporary architecture presents a rich tapestry of contrasting urban experiences. Beaufort The remains of the Lucilinburhuc Castle acquired by Count Siegfried of the Ardennes in 963 on the "Bock" promontory in the heart of the present-day capital city Bourscheid FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 215

highlight the more than 1000 year old history. Equally fascinating is what is below the surface – a 23 km long network of casemates (tunnels and galleries) that were built as a subterranean defence – these famous ruins of medieval fortifications were classified by UNESCO in 1994 as World Heritage Sites. The lively and bustling capital, rich in landscaped green spaces, is historically renowned as an established financial hub. In the present day, besides hosting several European Union institutions, Luxembourg offers an ideal platform for dynamic business activity in very diverse sectors. 216 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA © Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT The national motto is Mir wölle bleiwe wat mir sin, which is Luxembourgish for “We want to remain what we are”, alluding to the many attempts of various nations wanting to take control of this country. This is inscribed on the beautiful façades from the Flemish Renaissance era in the old city, where people enjoy terrace time – specially in the summer – on the picturesque, quaint, cobbled streets. © Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT Venues for artistic expression, like the stunning Philharmonie Luxembourg, abound and a creative, multi-lingual, multi-cultural, and eclectic cultural offer is representative of the city’s dwellers – more than 170 different nationalities call Luxembourg home.

© A.Schösser/LFT F I N E Fa l l 2 0 2 0 © A.Schösser/LFT Cuisine beans). Bouneschlupp (green bean soup), Iertsebulli (pea stew), Traipen (black pudding served with potatoes and apple sauce) are typical Luxembourgish traditional dishes – simple, hearty and wholesome – that are being reimagined by the young culinaires. Life is too short to drink bad wine and to eat without pleasure – and you’ll do neither in Luxembourg! From a geographical point of view, Luxembourg is one of the smallest countries in Europe. But, from a gastronomy point of view, this tiny nation ranks among the biggest. per capita of its population, Luxembourg boasts the highest number of starred restaurants that have convinced the gourmet jury of French Guide Michelin to be awarded with at least one star. This gastronomic success is the result of the emphasis on quality of local products, attention to the highest standards and the diversity in the range of sustainable produce. The national dish is Judd mat Gaardebounen (cured and smoked collar of pork served with broad ©ORT Région Moselle What is considered typical Luxembourg cuisine? Home to over 170 nationalities, Luxembourg is a genuine cultural melting pot whose myriad foreign influences and home recipes have also found their way into the nation’s kitchens to add value to the local heritage of cuisine. Luxembourgish gastronomy is especially cosmopolitan. The gastronomical journey through the cultures of the world offers foodies and gourmets what their heart desires. To enjoy all on offer, why not bring in bottled poetry to make a meal outstanding and memorable. Celts, Gauls and Romans have all cultivated vines on the steep slopes in the Moselle valley and the know-how has been handed down and improved successfully over the centuries. The Grand Duchy’s renowned crémant is much awarded in international competitions. This is the Luxembourg "good life". Immerse yourself and discover this enchanting little country – let it captivate you. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 217