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Amos Rex Lasipalatsi Square Welcome to Helsinki Dear reader, I’m happy to welcome you to Helsinki – the most functional city in the world. Like you, many people from all corners of the world choose to visit Helsinki for business, pleasure or events. We aim to provide you with the experience of a functional, fun and open city that provides the best possible conditions for urban life. We hope that you experience the city like a local. Everything is within a walking distance or a bike ride away. Urban environment is combined with the closeness of the countryside and the islands of the most beautiful archipelago in the world. The world-class Helsinki restaurant scene offers unique surprises for even the most seasoned foodie. A vibrant art and culture scene offers much to see – recently the world media has specifically noted the new art museum Amos Rex and the new central library Oodi. Everyone speaks English. Travellers are invited to join the community of Helsinki – regardless if you’re here for a day or a lifetime. ways in which you can take part. We’re committed to smart and sustainable travel that promotes open society and cultural understanding. You will come to the city as a visitor, but we hope to make a friend for life! Helsinki is an active member of the international community and takes its global responsibility seriously. We offer many Jan Vapaavuori Mayor of Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 2019–2020 CON T E N TS 10 The Finnish way 18 Visitor information 30 Getting around Helsinki 44 Attracted to Helsinki – Sights and attractions 52 Helsinki with children 62 Helsinki – Never far from water 72 Architecture in Helsinki – A mixture of east and west 78 Oodi Library – Helsinki’s Cool New Living Room 80 Lapinlahti – Hidden history in Helsinki 82 Art treasures of the city 92 Reason to make a song and dance 98 Get Sporty in Helsinki – Sporty daughter of the Baltic 106 Finnish design 112 Shop ‘til you drop in Helsinki 126 Restaurants and dining – A Cavalcade of Four Gastronomic Seasons 140 Fresh and local – Restaurants in Helsinki 160 Bars and nightlife and no dress-codes 170 Map of Helsinki ALL AD´S ARE INTERACTIVE! Download the app for an amazing experience that makes this book come alive! www.discoverhelsinki.fi DISCOVER HELSINKI 22ND EDITION Welcome to Helsinki. Discover Helsinki 2019–2020 will take you on a magical tour of this magnificent city. The editorial and photographic content takes you where you want to go, shows you how to get there and is designed to make your visit more enjoyable. Use it as your guide. An edition of 25 000 copies is published every spring. Discover Helsinki is available almost in every hotel room in the Helsinki metropolitan area and in the suites and first class cabins of cruise ships a year at a time between 15 June 2019 and 15 June 2020. >> www.discoverhelsinki.fi Published by Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy PrePress & Printing by PunaMusta Oy 2019 ISBN 1455-7312 Cover photos by 1. Jussi Helsten / Helsinki Marketing 2. Mika “Micke” Lilja 3. iStockphoto 4. Discover Helsinki 5. Hannu Tarvainen / Visit Finland 6. Elina Manninen / Kivet / Visit Finland Although the authors and publisher have tried to make the information as accurate as possible, they accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book. All contents copyright ©2019 by Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. For all advertisement enquiries and book orders please contact Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy.

T H E CITY I N YO U R PO CK E T The city of Helsinki has a lot to offer to people of all ages. So much so, that a city trip that lasts only a few days is not enough to take in everything that the city has to offer. This book in your hands is not just any book. It’s a book filled with special features, surprises and extras, all aimed at helping you to find your way around Helsinki and have a lot of fun while doing so. Download The Discover Helsinki Mobile Application You can access the written content of this book for free by via the Discover Helsinki mobile application. This might help to save you time and money (see discounts at discoverhelsinki.fi). You will also get direct access to helpful essential services such as the official Helsinki Service Map and how to use public transportation. The Discover Helsinki app is available from both the Apple App Store and Google Play Store, just search for ‘Discover Helsinki’. Access the augmented reality par t of the book Download Free App Should you be interested in finding out more about the advertisements in this book, magic awaits you! Simply download the ‘Made in Finland’-app ‘Arilyn’. With this application you can scan the pages of the Discover Helsinki book while you read it, to be surprised and find additional videos, social media links and route descriptions to places of interest. The Arilyn app is available from both App Store and Google Play Store and needs to be installed before you start scanning the pages of the book. Free without registration Discover Helsinki app(s) are free of charge, and registration is not required. We want to hear from you! We also want to hear about your experience(s)! We welcome your stories, pictures, videos and feedback, which we will take into account during the future development of Discover Helsinki. To share your story, use the #DiscoverHelsinki - ‘hashtag’ on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter, or send your email to: email@goeshere.com Discover Helsinki 5

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Ring of the Year 2012 How will you remember your loved ones? Ring of the Year 2016 Ring of the Year 2018 Finalist F I N N I S H J E W E L L E RY H A L L O F F A M E S TO C K M A N N G RO U N D F LO O R , H E L S I N K I | W W W.OJ L . F I | + 35 8 9 1213 8 6 6

WE LCO M E T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N The Finnish way Congratulations! You have chosen to visit Finland, the safest and most eco-friendly country in the world. Finland is a nation that loves silence but has some quirky festivals and curious habits. YOUR GUIDEBOOK may already have told you all the serious stuff Finns are proud of. Our nature is pure, we have thousands of lakes and wonderful delicious wild berries. The books are also always happy to tell you about the nation’s high-tech achievements with Nokia, Linux and the likes. Then we have a superb education system – ranked the best in the world – and excellent free health care. Finland is the world’s least corrupt country, the country with the freest press and comes first in the international prosperity index. To make the nation even prouder, Finland has been named the world’s safest country for holidaymakers to visit. Yes, it is a good country to live in and has been consistently ranked by major international media as one of the best destinations to visit. Perhaps this long list of high standards gives an impression of seriousness. But Finland has another side, one which is fun and at times quirky, and for holidaymakers hoping to find a bit of adventure, our unique country has a lot to offer. A land of one million saunas Start your Finnish adventure with the most quintessentially Finnish tradition of all – a trip to the sauna. The only Finnish word to have entered the world vocabulary, sauna is an important part of Finnish culture, tradition and everyday life. The age-old tradition still has an important role in the lives 10 Discover Helsinki

Everyone is free to enjoy and explore Finland’s beautiful and pure nature. KARI YLITALO / VISIT FINLAND Discover Helsinki 11

WE LCO M E Sauna is an institution and an important part of Finnish culture, tradition and everyday practices. Tip! Helsinki Sauna Day is the day to visit one of Finland’s one million saunas. 12 Discover Helsinki of most of the Finns, who bathe there once a week or even more often. There are approximately one million saunas in Finland – one for every 5 inhabitants – and you can see it for yourself: there is one in every fitness centre, hotel and public swimming pool. There are even bars and restaurants with saunas. A popular but, sadly, untrue saying goes that there are more saunas than cars in Finland! There is now even an event called Helsinki Sauna Day (www.helsinkisaunaday.fi) that opens the doors to the city’s saunas for everyone willing to visit them. Traditionally, sauna has been a place for silence. We have a high tolerance for silence – you will probably witness this when using public transportation or at any similar public gathering place. Finns do not generally have a great need for small talk. Do not be put off by this, because nearly everyone speaks good English and the overall willingness to help tourists is great. A Finnish sauna is a heated room where people gather on wooden benches to enjoy the warmth of 70 to 150 degrees Celsius. Traditionally, this is done completely naked, but if you’re shy it’s ok for you to wear a bathing suit or towel. In one corner of the room, there is a stove that generates the heat. Cold water is thrown on the hot stones of the stove to generate steam. An important part of Finnish culture for thousands of years, sauna keeps finding new ways of keeping itself alive in spite of urbanisation. It is not only a place to wash yourself or to relax, it is also a meeting place for friends, business colleagues or even political decision-makers. There is now even a sauna society in the Finnish embassy in Washington D.C., introducing high-temperature lobbying to the powers behind the scenes of Washington. In winter, the sauna experience is heightened by a roll in the snow or a dip in a hole in the ice. Ice swimming is popular in Finland, and there is also an ice swimming society, and ice-swimming holes are maintained by other organisations, as well, even in the Helsinki area. Try it out for yourself at the centrally located Kulttuurisauna (Hakaniemenranta 17). The minimalistic and modern sauna can offer you a zenlike experience. The latest addition to the city’s public saunas is a newcomer called Löyly (Hernesaarenranta 4). Run by two Finnish celebrities, Löyly has three saunas and a restaurant right by the seaside. The amazing wooden building has attracted a lot of media attention around the world.

There are one million saunas in Finland – one for every 5 inhabitants! HARRI TARVAINEN / VISIT FINLAND Discover Helsinki 13

W E LCO M E To par ty or not to par ty? If visiting a sauna left you cold or didn’t give you enough insight into the Finnish mentality, perhaps you should witness Finnish holidays or festivals. The increased amount of light in spring makes the nation come out of its deep thaw. The most important holiday in spring is the two-day carnival-like celebration of the first of May (in Finnish vappu). May Day eve is especially celebrated, with boisterous drinking and funny costumes. People have picnics in parks, drink sparkling wine and eat cold, salty dishes like pickled herring. The nation, at other times seemingly introverted and silent, shows its playful and exuberant side. While the overtly social May Day carnival fills the streets and parks of the city, the Finnish midsummer celebration makes Helsinki feel a bit like a ghost town. This is the time that locals go to the countryside and burn bonfires at the lakeside or by the sea. There are approximately half a million summer cottages in Finland (nearly one for every 10 citizens), and each and every one of them is in use in Midsummer. Again, it is the eve that has the bigger role in the celebrations. A typical Midsummer’s Eve includes a sauna bath, swimming, grilling and having a few drinks. Competition? It is no horseplay but a serious sport with rules and referees. Finland’s hosts the European Championships in Kemijärvi in Northern Finland in April. This intensely tactical sport, which originated in Kemijärvi’s twin city of Sobetsu, Japan, now has a summer version, in case you’ve missed the winter variant. Seems like the further north that you go, the wackier the events become! Tango, karaoke and lots of garlic Then there is the Finn’s love for the tango. Tango? The hot, sensual and passionate dance usually associated with Latin America? Not exactly what comes to mind when you are thinking about a cold, northern country. Actually, the Finnish tango is a melancholy cousin in the tango family, with mournful lyrics and minor keys to match. You can see (and hear) the tango phenomenon for yourself at the Seinäjoki Tango Festival, a large annual Finnish summer festival. The event gathers some 130,000 tango fans every year to witness the election of the new Tango Queen and Tango King and to have a tango on the streets. Sadly enough, all the festivals and happenings listed above take place a good distance away from Helsinki and thus are not available for all visitors. Happily enough for those eager to study the Finnish mentality, there Wife-carrying and mobile-throwing are a couple of great places to go Finn-watching in the Helsinki area. Finland is home to some of the most eccentric festivals in the world. You could try one the nation’s favourite pastimes, karaoke, at Karaoke What’s more, a number of them have world championship status. Take, Bar Pataässä (Snellmaninkatu 13). The bar is one of the most famous kafor example, the Wife Carrying World Championship, taking place now raoke restaurants in Finland. The legendary bar offers you karaoke fever for the 23rd time in Sonkajärvi in July. Today, it is a two-day event with every night of the week. Another popular choice is the centrally located a team competition alongside the main wife-carrying championship. and very busy Erottaja Bar (Erottajankatu 15–17). The bar offers over The rules are simple: the fastest man carrying his wife on his back is the 28,000 songs to choose from. If you want to sing, make sure you are there winner, plus there are special prizes for the most entertaining couple, early enough, because the place is often packed. the best costume and the strongest carrier. After karaoke, you may be feeling a bit peckish. JasBelieve it or not, Finland has great aspirations kan grilli (Dagmarinkatu) is highly recommended. You in football. In swamp football and snow football, can mingle with local celebrities and politicians while at least. The origins of swamp football are a bit standing in line for a greasy, extra garlicky snack in the obscure, but if the Finns are asked, it is a Finnmiddle of the night. If you are lucky and original enough ish invention. At least the first Championship was you can get an item on the menu named after you; there Did you know that it played in Finland. It’s the same story with snow are quite a few named after local politicians and other is ’everyman’s right’ football – from a humble tournament into a Eufrequenters to the place. Jaskan grilli isn’t any old hot ropean Championship and finally into a World dog stand, but has become legendary during the years. to walk through the Championship. Both sports have their home in It has even earned an article in the New York Times! forests and collect Kainuu in northern Finland. Go ahead and visit it – you might even learn something berries? If you are interested in winter sports, maybe more about Finland. ••• you’d like to visit the Yukigassen Snowball Fighting Tip! 14 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 15

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I N FO RMATION T E XT BY M A RKU S LE HT I PUU Edited by Maritta Jones Visitor information Business and Shopping Hours Shop opening hours were deregulated in 2016 and shop owners are allowed to set their opening hours freely. Department stores and many chain stores are typically open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 6 or 7 p.m. on Saturdays, and from 12 noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Many stores close at 6 p.m. on the days before public holidays. On Finnish public holidays, many stores are closed. There are several supermarket groups with stores ranging from smaller grocery stores to large hypermarkets. These often have long opening hours, with a few which are open for 24 hours such as the S-Market at the Sokos Department store (Mannerheimintie 9) or the K-Citymarket at the Ruoholahti Shopping Centre (Itämerenkatu 21). For basic essentials, you can visit an R-Kioski, a small convenience store with numerous outlets throughout the city. R-Kiosks’ opening hours vary, but they are generally open very early and close quite late. Open-air markets begin trading at 6.30 a.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and close at 4 or 6 p.m. The Helsinki Market Square stays open until 4 p.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and it is also open on summer Sundays. Alcohol Groceries, convenience stores and service stations are permitted to sell drinks with a maximum alcohol content of 5.5%. Alcoholic beverages which exceed that level can only be purchased at Alko stores, or at licensed bars. Photo ID is often requested when buying alcohol. The minimum legal drinking age in Finland is 18 for drinks with an alcohol volume of up to 22%. You must be 20 years or older in order to buy drinks with an alcohol content in excess of 22%. Sale of alcohol cease at 9 p.m., except at bars, where service stops at 1:30 a.m. and at nightclubs where service stops at latest 3:30 a.m. Climate and Weather Helsinki has four distinct seasons, spring, summer, autumn and winter. The high season for tourists spans from May to September, when the days are long and the temperatures generally comfortable. However, because of its geographic position, Finland has a mixed climate, which means that the weather can vary from torrential rain to long heat waves. Be prepared for anything! 18 Discover Helsinki

Biking is an ideal way to explore Helsinki, and cycle tracks are built alongside all the major roadways. JULIA KIVELÄ / VISIT FINLAND Discover Helsinki 19

MONEY EXCHANGE Summer is warm and light-drenched, which contrasts sharply with the dark, cold winter. In summer, the average temperature ranges from 15 to 25 °C , and may reach up to +30 °C, with the warmest days usually occurring at the end of July However, rain and northerly winds can cause the temperature to drop suddenly. Winters are typically long, with the mean temperature usually below zero, but there are also temperate days. The proximity of the sea makes Helsinki a humid city, so take this into account and dress accordingly! Currency Finland is one of the European Union countries using the euro. Notes are issued in the following denominations: 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 euros. The coins are 2 and 1 euros, and 50, 20, 10 and 5 cents. You can exchange your currency into euros at any bureau de change. It is also possible to exchange currency through an ATM by using your credit card. Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Diner’s Club Cards are all widely accepted in Finland. 0% C u s t o m s Re g u l a t i o n s Customs checks tend to be minimal if you are arriving from another EU state, but restricted goods must be declared. If you have goods to declare or you are unsure about what regulations apply, go through the red channel at customs and they will assist you there. Remember that failure to declare restricted items can result in double the import tax! Please note that strictly defined restrictions apply to the import of alcohol and cigarettes. Comprehensive information can be found on the Finnish Customs Department website (Tulli) and information is also available at transit points. COMMISSION WITH THIS ADVERT E m e rg e n c i e s Find us at: PohjoisespForum Kamppi lanadi Shopping Mall Shopping Mall 21 Mannerheimintie 14B (E-Floor) ¥ € $ Travel Money Travel Money and Tax Refund € Tax Refund changegroup.fi The general emergency number for police, fire and ambulance services is 112. M e d i c a l C a re 24-hour emergency service is available at Haartman Hospital, Haartmaninkatu 4, (tel. 09 3106 3231). You can also contact the Helsinki University Central Hospital (HYKS, tel. 09 4711), which will direct you to the appropriate hospital. You can find more information about emergency medical services and treatment locations on the city’s website at www.hel.fi. Medical services in Helsinki are efficient, but the cost and waiting times vary considerably. Travellers are advised to take out comprehensive travel insurance. This will allow the quickest and most appropriate

Everyone speaks English! Though Finland is officially bilingual most people in Helsinki can understand and speak English pretty well. treatment in private clinics, which can otherwise be quite expensive. Holders of the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) are covered for emergency treatment, although they are still required to pay the standard fees. For non-urgent medical problems, contact the nearest health centre (terveysasema). Dental Care Emergency dental care can be reserved by phone (09 310 51400) from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and is provided at Ruskeasuo Dental Clinic at Mannerheimintie 172. Outside of those hours service is provided at the Surgical Hospital, Kasarmikatu 11 -13 (entrance U). To make an appointment on evening or weekends call 09 471 71110; during holidays call 09 310 10023. Some private services also provide 24-hour dental emergency care, such as Stardent (tel. 0600 065 000, Mannerheimintie 62 and Vilhovuorenkatu 3). Internet Citizens of Finland have a legal right to basic internet access, and Finland is considered to be a world leader in that regard. The airport and public libraries and many other places, such as cafés and shopping centres, allow you to surf the net free of charge. Look for “Helsinki City Open WLAN” , which is a safe and secure WLAN connection, with no sign-in required. Language Finland has two official languages, Finnish and Swedish. English is the most commonly used language for international communication. However, a number of Finns also speak German and French. The Finnish language is reputed to be extremely difficult. Indeed, as a non-Indo-European language, it does present a challenge to new learners. However, Finns will be pleased if you can master even just a couple of words. Have a go and make someone smile! Pharmacies Postal Ser vices “Apteekki” is the Finnish word for pharmacy. There are more than one hundred pharmacies in the Helsinki metropolitan area. The pharmacy located at Mannerheimintie 5 is open daily from 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m. to 12 p.m on weekends. There is a 24-hour pharmacy further north at Mannerheimintie 96. For postal services, look for Posti, which is the name of the Finnish postal service. There are many post offices in the city centre. Post offices usually open at either 8 or 9 am and close between 6 to 9 pm on weekdays, depending on the location. There is also a 24-hour Posti located in Jätkäsaari, Helsinki. The main post office is located in the large yellow Postitalo building between the central railway station and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma at Elielinaukio 2 F (tel. 0200 71 000). It is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturdays and noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays. Lost Proper ty There is a lost property office at the central police station which is located at Pasilanraitio 13 (tel. 0295 417 922). All lost property found on city-operated public transport is sent to the lost property service which is located at Mäkelänkatu 56 (tel. 0600 41006). It is open Monday to Friday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and on Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Public Toilets You can find free restrooms at Sofiankatu 2, Stockmann Department Discover Helsinki 21

I N FO RMATION store (Aleksanterinkatu 52) and Forum shopping centre (Mannerheimintie 14–20, ground floor). The City of Helsinki also maintains a number of automatic toilets at several locations, for example in Esplanade Park and in Sibelius Park, that are free of charge. Ta p Wa t e r Ta x Re f u n d s Price tags and prices displayed include all taxes. International plane tickets represent the only exception: so-called airport taxes are usually added to the price of the ticket. Even the prices on restaurant menus already include the service charge. Tips are not expected or required. Should you, however, wish to tip your waiter, the gesture will of course be appreciated! There is no need to tip taxi drivers, but you can naturally tip them for good service. Travellers are eligible for tax-free returns on goods bought in Finland, provided that they are not citizens of an EU country or Norway. The minimum purchase amount is €40 in order to qualify for a refund. Shops participating in the VAT refund scheme display the Tax Free Shopping sign or the Global Blue sticker. You will be given a special receipt which you need to present to customs when claiming your refund. Remember that the goods must remained sealed and unused at the time of departure from the EU in order to be eligible for the refund. S h o e Re p a i r s If you have broken a heel or your shoes need new heel tips or some urgent stitching, you can get your shoes repaired at the Forum and Kamppi shopping malls or at the Helsinki Main Railway Station. Tap water in Finland is amongst the highest quality in the world, and it is quite safe to drink. Ta xe s a n d Ti p p i n g Te l e p h o n e Most Finns use mobile phones and the use of landline services is largely disappearing. There are several GSM operators in Finland and the range of coverage is approximately the same in the Helsinki area. In practice, you can use all the European mobile phone frequencies in Helsinki. You can also consider buying a pre-paid SIM card for The oldest souvenir shop in Helsinki opposite the Temppeliaukio Church • Knitwear • Finnish knives • Moomin items • Handicrafts • Målerås crystal • Souvenirs Since 1980 ANNE’S SHOP Fredrikinkatu 68 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 445 823 OPEN EVERY DAY 9–18 (winter 9–17) www.annensoppi.com facebook.com/Annensoppi

Tap water in Finland is amongst the highest quality in the world! use during your stay. These are available at R-Kiosks and the larger supermarkets or directly from the mobile network operator stores. The international dialing code for Finland is +358. For outgoing international calls, the prefix is 00. You can also choose different telecom operators, as the rates charged for calls may vary from country to country. Finland has 13 area codes. Each area code starts with a zero. The area code for Helsinki is 09. For directory enquiries, phone 118. Shop Helsinki Gift & Souvenir Factory Shop Tourist Information Tourist information service points can be found at several locations, from which you can get information and tips about events and attractions, as well as obtain maps and brochures. The main Tourist Information Centre is located at the Central Railway Station at Kaivokatu 1 in downtown Helsinki. Here you can also visit Strömma Finland, which is an agency where you can purchase tickets for various sightseeing tours and activities. Additional service points can be found at the Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, at the digital MyHelsinki service point at the Stockmann Department store at Aleksanterinkatu and also at the mobile info container which is located at the Market Square, close to the Havis Amanda statue. The city also employs a team of “Helsinki Helps”, guides who patrol the streets in teams of two. These friendly guides will assist you if you need information about the city and they also carry useful literature. You will recognise them by their green uniforms. For telephone service, contact Helsinki Tourist Information at 09 3101 3300, or alternatively you can e-mail your questions to Helsinki.touristinfo@hel.fi. ••• For more information visit our website at www.discoverhelsinki.fi 5 Prices from € Shop Helsinki is a souvenir shop in the heart of Helsinki. We are located on the ground level in the gateway from Kamppi shopping centre to Forum shopping centre. Access also from Narinkkatori square. Address: Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki, tel. 0400-724633. Find directions from Google Maps, just search Shop Helsinki - Mikebon

И н ф орма ция Информация для гостей города Часы работы магазинов Часы работы магазинов были пересмотрены в 2016 году, и теперь их владельцы имеют право свободно регулировать график работы. Универмаги и торговые сети обычно работают с 9 утра и до 9 вечера с понедельника по пятницу, с 9 утра и до 6 или 7 вечера по субботам, а также с 12 дня и до 6 вечера по воскресеньям. Накануне официальных выходных многие магазины закрываются уже в 6 вечера, а в праздничные дни большинство из них не работает. Исключением являются некоторые сети супермаркетов, представленные как небольшими магазинами, так и крупными гипермаркетами. Они часто работают допоздна, а некоторые из них открыты 24 часа в сутки, как например: S-Market в универмаге «Сокос» (Mannerheimintie 9) или K-Citymarket в Торговом центре Руохолахти (Itämerenkatu 21). Предметы первой необходимости можно приобрести в небольших магазинчиках R-Kioski, расположенных в большом количестве по всему городу. Часы работы R-киосков различаются, но, как правило, они открываются очень рано и закрываются довольно поздно. Уличные рынки открыты по будням и субботам с 6.30 до 16.00 или 18.00. Торговая площадь Хельсинки, в свою очередь, работает до 16.00 с понедельника по субботу, а летом также и по воскресеньям. Алкоголь В продуктовых магазинах, круглосуточных магазинах и на автозаправочных станциях разрешается продавать напитки с содержанием алкоголя не более 5,5%. Алкогольные напитки, превышающие этот уровень, можно приобрести только в магазинах Alko или в лицензированных барах. Часто при покупке алкоголя просят представить удостоверение личности с фотографией. В Финляндии алкоголь разрешено употреблять только с 18 лет, при этом крепость напитка не должна превышать 22%. Напитки с содержанием спирта свыше 22% разрешено покупать и употреблять только лицам в возрасте 20 лет и старше. Продажа алкоголя прекращается вечером в 21.00, за исключением баров, где обслуживание останавливается в 1:30 ночи, и ночных клубов, где обслуживание прекращается не позднее 3:30 ночи. Климат В Хельсинки отчетливо выражены четыре времени года: весна, лето, осень и зима. Туристический сезон в основном длится с мая по сентябрь, когда световые дни длинные, а температура воздуха вполне комфортная. Однако из-за своего географического положения Финляндия имеет смешанный 24 Discover Helsinki

HARRI TARVAINEN / VISIT FINLAND климат, и это означает, что продолжительные жаркие периоды могут сменяться проливными дождями. Будьте готовы ко всему! Солнечное теплое лето резко контрастирует с холодной зимой, когда световой день очень короток. Летом температура варьируется от +15 до +25 °C, поднимаясь иногда до +30 °C. Самые жаркие дни обычно приходятся на конец июля. Однако во время дождя и при северном ветре температура может резко упасть. Зима обычно длинная и морозная, но бывают и относительно теплые дни. Из-за близости моря климат в Хельсинки влажный. Об этом следует помнить и одеваться с учетом климатических особенностей! Валюта Финляндия принадлежит к числу стран Европейского Союза, которые ввели у себя единую валюту – евро. Существуют банкноты достоинством в 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 и 5 евро, а также монеты достоинством в 2 и 1 евро, 50, 20, 10 и 5 центов. Евро можно купить в любом обменном пункте. Вы можете поменять валюту в банкомате, используя кредитную карту. Карты Visa, Mastercard, American Express и Diner’s Club широко используются в Финляндии. Таможня Таможенные проверки, как правило, минимальны, если вы прибываете из другого государства ЕС, но не забывайте заявлять о товарах, подлежащих декларированию. Если у вас есть товары для декларирования, или вы не уверены в отношении применяемых правил, то проходите через красный коридор, где вас проконсультируют таможенные работники. Помните, что если вы не заявите о товарах, подлежащих декларированию, то это может привести к удвоению налога на импорт! Следует обратить внимание на ограничения, касающиеся ввоза алкоголя и сигарет. С полной информацией можно ознакомиться на веб-сайте Таможенного департамента Финляндии (Tulli), а также в пунктах транзита. Куда обращаться в чрезвычайных ситуациях Единый номер телефона экстренных служб (полиции, пожарной службы и скорой) — 112. Медицинское обслуживание Неотложную медицинскую помощь можно получить круглосуточно в больнице Haartman по адресу: Haartmaninkatu 4 (тел. 09 3106 3231). Discover Helsinki 25

И н ф о рма ция Вы также можете позвонить в Центральную клинику Хельсинкского университета (HYKS, тел. 09 4711), где вас направят в нужную больницу. Более подробную информацию о медицинских услугах в чрезвычайных ситуациях и о расположении больниц и клиник можно получить на сайте города www.hel.fi. В Хельсинки вам окажут эффективную медицинскую помощь, однако стоимость услуг и время ожидания могут сильно различаться. Рекомендуем приобретать полную страховку для выезжающих за рубеж. Это даст возможность оперативно получить надлежащее лечение в частных клиниках, без страховки его стоимость будет достаточно высока. Владельцы Европейской карты медицинского страхования (EHIC) застрахованы на случай неотложной медицинской помощи, но при этом им необходимо оплачивать стандартный взнос пациента, установленный в государстве. При возникновении проблем, не требующих неотложной медицинской помощи, обращайтесь в ближайший медицинский центр (terveysasema). Аптеки По-фински “аптека” будет Apteekki. В столичном регионе насчитывается более ста аптек. Аптека на Mannerheimintie 5 открыта ежедневно с 7.00 до полуночи в будние дни и с 8.00 до полуночи в выходные дни. Севернее, на Mannerheimintie 96, находится круглосуточная аптека. Бюро находок Бюро находок расположено в Центральном отделении полиции по адресу: Pasilanraitio 13 (тел. 0295 417922). Всё потерянное имущество, найденное в городском общественном транспорте, отправляется в бюро находок по адресу: Mäkelänkatu 56 (тел. 0600 41006). Бюро открыто с понедельника по пятницу с 10.00 до 18.00 и в субботу с 10.00 до 14.00. Интернет Граждане Финляндии имеют законное право на доступ в интернет, и Финляндия считается мировым лидером в этой области. Бесплатный доступ в Интернет имеется во многих местах, в том числе в аэропорту и в общественных библиотеках, кафе и торговых центрах. Helsinki City Open WLAN – это надежное и безопасное WLAN-соединение, не требующее авторизации. 26 Discover Helsinki Язык В Финляндии два государственных языка: финский и шведский. Английский – наиболее распространенный язык международного общения. Некоторые финны также говорят по-немецки и пофранцузски. Финский язык считается очень непростым: он не относится к индоевропейским языкам, и начинающим изучать его приходится трудно. Но любому финну будет приятно, если вы запомните хотя бы несколько финских слов. Попробуйте обрадовать кого-нибудь! Услуги почты Если вам необходимы почтовые услуги, то ищите Posti, так называется почта в Финляндии. В центре города много почтовых отделений, которые обычно работают по будням и открываются в 8.00 или 9.00 и закрываются между 18.00 и 21.00, в зависимости от месторасположения. Круглосуточная почта расположена в Jätkäsaari, Хельсинки. Главный почтамт находится в большом желтом здании Postitalo, расположенном между Центральным железнодорожным вокзалом и Музеем современного искусства Киасма на Elielinaukio 2 F (тел. 0200 71 000). Часы работы — с 8.00 до 20.00 (понедельник — пятница), с 10.00 до 16.00 (суббота) и с 12.00 до 16.00 (воскресенье). Общественные туалеты Бесплатные туалеты находятся на ул. Sofiankatu 2, в универмаге «Стокманн» (Aleksanterinkatu 52) и Торговом центре «Форум» (Mannerheimintie 14–20, первый этаж). В некоторых местах поставлены городские автоматические туалеты-кабины, например, в парке на Эспланаде и в парке Сибелиуса, которые тоже бесплатные. Возврат налога Покидая страну, туристы из стран, не входящих в Европейский Союз и не являющиеся жителями Норвегии, могут получить возврат налога с покупок, сделанных ими в Финляндии. Возврат НДС не производится при стоимости товара менее 40 евро. Магазины, сотрудничающие с системами возврата налога, вывешивают надписи Tax Free Shopping или используют стикеры Global Blue. При покупке вам выдадут специальный чек, который необходимо будет предъявить в окно возврата НДС на таможне при выезде из страны. Помните, что товар должен оставаться

SINCE 1928

Водопроводная вода в Финляндии самого лучшего в мире качества и безопасна для питья. запечатанным и неиспользованным до момента выезда из ЕС, чтобы вы не потеряли право на возврат налога. Починка обуви Если вам нужно починить сломавшийся каблук, поставить набойку или заплатку, вы найдете обувные мастерские в торговых центрах Forum и Kamppi, а также на Центральном железнодорожном вокзале. Водопроводная вода Водопроводная вода в Финляндии самого лучшего в мире качества и безопасна для питья. Налоги и чаевые Объявленные цены включают в себя все налоги. Единственное исключение – билеты на международные авиарейсы: к их цене обычно прибавляется так называемый аэропортовый сбор. В настоящее время даже цены в меню ресторанов включают в себя плату за обслуживание: чаевых никто не ждет и не требует. Если вы, однако, решите отблагодарить официанта, ваш жест будет оценен должным образом. Таксисты также не просят чаевых, но, разумеется, их можно дать в качестве благодарности за хорошую работу. Телефонная связь Большинство финнов пользуются мобильными телефонами, а стационарные телефоны быстро выходят из обращения. В Финляндии есть несколько мобильных операторов, использующих стандарт GSM. Зона покрытия каждого из них в районе Хельсинки приблизительно одинакова. В Хельсинки можно использовать телефоны, подключенные в других странах Европы и работающие на любой частоте. Вы также можете купить местную SIM карту на определенную сумму (prepaid) для использования во время вашего пребывания в стране. Такие карты можно приобрести в R-Kioski, в крупных супермаркетах или напрямую у мобильных операторов. Международный телефонный код Финляндии +358. Для звонков за границу используется код 00, при этом вы можете выбрать различных операторов, стоимость звонка при использовании каждого из них слегка различается. В Финляндии есть 13 телефонных кодов, соответствующих различным регионам страны. Каждый из них начинается с 0. Код Хельсинки 09. За справками по поводу кода обращайтесь по тел. 118. Туристическая информация Информационные точки для туристов расположены в самых различных местах. Здесь вы можете получить информацию и советы, касающиеся городских событий и достопримечательностей, а также воспользоваться картами и проспектами. Главный Туристический информационный центр расположен на Центральном железнодорожном вокзале по адресу: Kaivokatu 1. Здесь же находится и Strömma Finland - агентство по продаже билетов на различные экскурсии и мероприятия. Дополнительные точки обслуживания расположены в аэропорту Хельсинки-Вантаа, в дигитальном центре MyHelsinki в универмаге «Стокманн» (ул. Aleksanterinkatu), а также в мобильном информационном пункте на Торговой площади, недалеко от скульптуры Хавис Аманда. Город располагает службой под названием ”Helsinki Helps”. Дружелюбные гиды, передвигающиеся по городу группами по двое, всегда готовы помочь и проконсультировать, если вам нужна информация о городе. Гиды также имеют при себе полезные для туристов печатные материалы. Туристических помощников можно опознать по зеленой форме. Вы можете также связаться с Туристическим информационным центром Хельсинки по телефону: 09 3101 3300 или задать вопросы по эл.почте: Helsinki.touristinfo@hel.fi. ••• Для получения дополнительной информации посетите наш сайт www.discoverhelsinki.fi Discover Helsinki 29

TRA N S PO RT T E XT BY M A RKU S LE HT I PUU Edited by Maritta Jones Getting around Helsinki Exploring the city is easy with Helsinki’s efficient public transportation system. The entire Helsinki region is covered by an integrated network that is operated by HSL, the Helsinki Regional Transport Authority. HSL tickets are valid on the bus, metro, tram, commuter trains and the Suomenlinna ferry. There are also private transportation options available, such as inter-city buses and taxi services. Getting To And From The Airpor t Helsinki International Airport is located in Vantaa, thirty minutes from the city centre. Finnair buses leave every 25–30 minutes from Elielinaukio, which is in front of the central railway station in Helsinki, starting at 5 a.m. and ending at midnight. The last bus leaves from the airport at 00.45. One-way adult tickets cost EUR 6.80 and are valid for 90 minutes. The local buses take slightly longer to get to the airport and single tickets cost EUR 4.60 (EUR 6.50 when bought from the bus. Note: no card payments, preferably exact change or under 20 euros notes.) Bus nos. 615, 415, 617 and 561 take you to the airport from different points in the city. Conveniently, you can take bus no. 615 from the stop located across from the Central Railway Station. The new Ring Rail Line provides a train connection between the airport and the city centre. From the Helsinki Central Railway Station, you can take either the I or P trains. The modern, low-floor trains run every 10 minutes in the daytime. The journey from the airport to the central railway station takes about 30 minutes. For more information about the bus and train schedules visit www.hsl.fi. Tickets are not sold on board the trains, but can be bought on board buses, or through the HSL app, or from an HSL ticket machine. At the airport, ticket machines are located at the train station entrance between Terminal 1 and Terminal 2, in the baggage claim hall in Terminal 2 and at bus stops. Additionally, tickets are available at the Tourist Info booth, R-Kioski and from the Alepa grocery store. Journeys between the airport and the Helsinki city centre require an ABC ticket. Minibus services, including Airport Taxi (tel. 0100 4800) and Yellow Line Airport Taxi (tel. 0600 555 555), charge a lump sum for a whole group travelling from the airport to a single destination in the city. An ordinary taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost approximately 50 euros, depending on the exact destination. 30 Discover Helsinki

Trams are the main form of public transport in the inner city. The reliable and extensive tram network has 10 lines, and it connects the different parts of the inner city to each other. OMAR EL MRABT / HELSINKI MARKETING

CITY TRA N S PO RT SYST E M Buses and Trams Helsinki Region Transport (HSL) provides an integrated service throughout the city. Timetables and route maps are available from the HSL information offices free of charge. The main office, located at the central railway station, is open Monday to Friday from 7.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tickets can be purchased from the HSL ticket machines which are located at travel transit points. HSL also has a mobile ticket app for smartphones. The free app allows you to buy tickets directly from your phone. The mobile tickets are valid on all modes of transport. Ticket prices are based on zones. Four new zones (A, B, C, D) were introduced in April 2019, replacing the previous system. An AB ticket will allow you to travel within Helsinki and partially Espoo and Vantaa. A single AB ticket (adult) costs EUR 2.80 when purchased through the app or from a ticket machine, and EUR 4.00 when purchased from the bus driver. A day ticket is useful if you plan to make several journeys during one day or more, as you can buy a ticket that is valid from 1 to 7 days. AB tickets are valid for 80 minutes and ABC tickets for 90 minutes; however, tickets that are bought from ticket machines are valid for ten minutes longer. If you travel by tram remember to obtain your ticket beforehand, either from a ticket machine or through the app, as tickets are no longer sold on board. For more information of zones and ticket fees, see www.hsl.fi/en. Metro A modern, immaculately clean metro runs from Ruoholahti in the south-west to Mellunmäki and Vuosaari in the north-east of Helsinki. The last train leaves the centre approximately at 11.30 p.m. The network remains modest with a straight-line, east to west design, which makes it extremely easy to navigate. Uniquely, the metro will also drop you off at the gates of the Rastila camping site in Vuosaaari, which is maintained by the city of Helsinki. The new Western Metro Extension has added eight stops after Ruoholahti and currently ends at Matinkylä, Espoo.


Trains The local trains all depart from the Helsinki Central Railway Station. There are three main lines: Riihimäki via Tikkurila (Tampere line), Kirkkonummi via Espoo (Turku line) and Ring Rail Line from Helsinki to Airport via Myyrmäki and from Helsinki to Airport via Tikkurila. There are both fast trains and local trains that call at every station on the way. The Helsinki Card and tickets issued by HSL are valid within the greater Helsinki area. If you are travelling beyond the municipalities of Helsinki, you will require a commuter train ticket. Tickets are not sold on board the trains, but can be bought from VR offices, ticket machines, the VR webshop or through the VR mobile app. (www.vr.fi) Taxis Taxi regulations were eased in 2018, removing previous controls on who could provide the service and for how much. Taxi prices are typically not cheap, but since the deregulation of pricing, fares now depend on the company or individual providing the service. The driver’s policy on fares should be stated before the start of the journey or should clearly visible otherwise within the vehicle. If you require a taxi, phone 0100 0700, it is a local taxi service. You can also call Kovanen, a private taxi and limousine company with 24/7 customer care (tel. 0200 6060, www.kovanen.com). You can also call a taxi directly through the free Discover Helsinki mobile app. (www.discoverhelsinki.fi) By car Renting a car is a good way to explore the area surrounding Helsinki. Several major international car rental companies operate at both the airport and in the centre of Helsinki. Traffic is right-handed and headlights are mandatory at all times while driving. If you are arriving with your own vehicle, remember that winter tires are required by law from December to February. Bicycles A relatively flat landscape and excellent bicycle routes makes Helsinki an ideal place for cycling, and tours to its outer suburbs are recommended. Helsinki has a shared-use bicycles that you can borrow for a small fee. You can use the City bike for 30 minutes, or up to 5 hours for an extra charge. After your ride, the bike must be returned to one of the 345 bike stations which are located throughout Helsinki and Espoo. For those who enjoy cycling, this is an excellent way to explore both cities. Bicycles can also be rented from various locations in Helsinki, including Greenbike at Bulevardi 32 (greenbike.fi) and Ecobike at Savilankatu 1 B, next to the football stadium (ecobike.fi).

Boat Ser vices Don’t overlook one of Helsinki’s main attractions: its extensive archipelago, which is perfect for summertime island-hopping. From May to September, several boat tours operate from the Market Square. For instance, JT-line (jt-line.fi) offers a tour that takes you to Vallisaari, Suomenlinna and Lonna islands, allowing you to explore each island at leisure. Stromma Finland also offers a combo tour which includes a sightseeing cruise with the mainland hop-on hop-off bus tour. (stromma.com) A regular ferry service to the fortress island of Suomenlinna, run by HSL, departs from the Market Square approximately twice an hour. This service operates all the year round. HSL public transport tickets (AB, ABC and ABCD) are valid on the ferry, or you can purchase 12hour ticket to Suomenlinna for EUR 5, which is only valid on the ferry. Alternatively, the Helsinki Card includes travel on the ferry to Suomenlinna and holders of the card can also travel for free on the boat to Korkeasaari, a pretty island that is home to the Helsinki Zoo. P R E M I U M B Y I T S N AT U R E TAXI 24/7 Airport transfers Private sightseeing Charter service Customer care 24/7 +358 (0)200 6060 3,09€/answered call + 0,30€/min kovanen.com Visiting friends or family, attending an event or taking a break to relax? Pack your bag and explore the beautiful landscape with Hertz. At time of booking please use the following discount code (CDP) 760968 and get up to 10% off on car hire. Book your car on hertz.fi

TRA N S P O RT 36 Discover Helsinki

Sightseeing Beyond Greater Helsinki There are several companies arranging hop-on hop-off sightseeing tours in Helsinki. Most of the tour bus routes include a stop at the Senate Square or nearby, although the routes vary. City Tour, for instance, shows you the best sights in Helsinki on board their double-decker buses. (www.citytour.fi) If you are interested in a personalised private tour for a smaller group, Kovanen offers you a luxuriously comfortable and easy way to experience Helsinki with a driver-guided tour (tel. 0200 6161, www.kovanen.com). A guided bike tour is a nice and eco-friendly way to discover Helsinki. Bike Tours Helsinki, among others, arranges sightseeing tours by bike. See www.biketourshelsinki.com for more information. Finland has an excellent public transport network. There are three competing airlines on the domestic routes, Finnair, SAS and Norwegian. The train services are efficiently run by the Finnish State Railways (VR). The network links Helsinki to all the major cities in Finland, including outlying towns in Lapland. National bus services are coordinated by the Matkahuolto company. In practice, all population centres are accessible by bus. There is also a budget bus company called OnniBus that offers cheap inter-city fares starting from just 1 €. In summer, a more exotic form of transport is available in the form of dozens of vintage steamboats! Although many have relinquished steam in favour of a modern engine, a few genuine old-timers continue to ply the waves. The lakes used to be a major transport route in Finland. Every summer, this tradition is revived – you can sail from Helsinki far into the north by steamer. The best way of travelling to Turku, Tampere and Hämeenlinna is by rail. For Porvoo, the bus is most convenient. For travellers heading for Lapland, there are daily flights to Rovaniemi, Ivalo and other destinations. If you plan to tour Finland, a thorough travel guide and a book of timetables are essential. Tailored excursions are also easy to arrange by contacting a travel agency. St. Petersburg in Russia is now closer to Helsinki than ever before – the new Allegro train connection will take you to St. Petersburg in three and a half hours. The train has four departures a day, and border formalities are operated conveniently aboard the moving train. Private Flights Helsinki has no skyscrapers, so the only way to get a bird’s-eye view of the city is by private plane. You can also hire a private plane to fly to other parts of Finland and even abroad – certainly worth considering for urgent trips to the Baltic States or Russia. Espoo And Vantaa If you are travelling beyond the Helsinki area by public transport, you will need either an ABC ticket which covers Helsinki-Espoo-Vantaa, or an ABCD ticket which extends to the outer areas of Kirkkonummi, Siuntio, Tuusula, Kerava and Sipoo. Timetables and route maps for buses and trains to Espoo and Vantaa are available free of charge from the HSL offices and information about zones and ticket prices are also Cruises beyond Helsinki available on their website (hsl.fi). Helsinki is the busiest passenger port in Europe. Nearly 300 cruise ships Tikkurila, home to the Finnish Science Centre with nearly 500,000 passengers visit Helsinki every Heureka, is also accessible by local train. To go to year. The cruise quays are located in Hernesaari, Nuuksio National Park, take bus no. 245 from Espoo West Harbour, South Harbour, and Katajanokka. Center (Espoon Keskus). Vast luxury ferries to Stockholm depart daily from Flamingo Leisure World is the largest entertainSouth Harbour, in the centre of Helsinki, at 5 or 6 p.m. ment centre in Scandinavia with a shopping centre, The Viking Line terminal is located at Katajanokka, With over 4000 kms cinema, spa, nightclub and various restaurants. It is and the Silja Line terminal is near Kaivopuisto Park. of cycling tracks in located in Vantaa, quite nearby the airport. You can The car ferries to Tallinn, however, depart from West Helsinki, biking is take the buses 415 or 614 from Helsinki bus station, Harbour, near Ruoholahti metro station (exception a great way to get although there is a short walk from the bus stop to Viking Line). The terminal is also used by Moby SPL around the city. the leisure centre. You can ask the driver for in(formerly St Peter Line) that has a regular ferry constructions. nection to St. Petersburg. ••• Tip! Discover Helsinki 37


Helsinki Cathedral Senate Square MyHelsinki.fi Your local guide to Helsinki. #myhelsinki

Events in Helsinki 2019 JUNE 5–13.6. URB, urban festival, Kiasma 6–8.6. Sideways Festival, music festival, Nordis 7–8.6. Helsinki Samba Carnaval, Senate Square 8.6. Helsinki Half Marathon 12.6. Helsinki Day, birthday events throughout the city in Esplanade Park, Senate Square etc. 21.6. Midsummer Bonfires, Seurasaari Island 24–30.6. Helsinki Pride 28–30.6. Tuska Festival, metal music festival, Suvilahti Espafolk Event, folk music and dances, Esplanade Park Les Lumières – Enlightenment Cultural Festival, Suomenlinna MeriViapori, boating event for wooden vessels, Suomenlinna Sea Fortress June–July Summer in Alppipuisto, park concerts during weekends, Alppipuisto Park June–August Helsinki Organ Summer, in churches JULY 3–6.7. Helsinki Chamber Music Festival 4–6.7. Craft Beer Helsinki, festival, Railway Square 5–6.7. Visio Festival, music festival, Suvilahti 8–13.7. Helsinki Cup, international junior soccer tournament 19–20.7. Weekend Festival, techno music, Suvilahti 19–22.7. Helsinki Fashion Week 24–27.7. Big Beers – Small Breweries, beer festival, Kaisaniemi Park 26–28.7. Ropecon, role play event AUGUST 3.8. Children’s Festival, programme for children, Töölönlahti 5–14.8. Etno-Espa, music event, Esplanade Park 9–11.8. Flow Festival, urban festival, Suvilahti 15–25.8. Poetry Moon, poem festival 15–24.8. Art goes Kapakka, cultural happenings in bars throughout the city 15.8. Night of the Arts, throughout the city 16.8–1.9. Helsinki Festival, throughout the city 17.8. Viapori Trophy, sailing competition off of Suomenlinna 20–24.8. Viapori Jazz, jazz festival, Suomenlinna 24.8. Helsinki Marathon, running event Cleaning Day, flea markets all over the city Jazz-Espa, jazz concerts, Espa Stage, Esplanade Park SEPTEMBER 5–15.9. Helsinki Design Week, design event 7–8.9. Helsinki Comics Festival 11–15.9. Habitare, interior design fair, Messukeskus 13–22.9. International Grand Market, delicacies from all over the world 19–29.9. Love and Anarchy Film Festival Helsinki Handicraft Fair, Wanha Satama iik!week, Halloween event, Linnanmäki OCTOBER 4–6.10. Superwood Festival, Vuosaari 4.10–3.11. Sirkus Finlandia, traditional circus, Kaisaniemi Park 6–12.10. Herring Market, Helsinki’s oldest traditional event, Market Square 12–13.10. Retro & Vintage + Design Expo, Cable Factory 18–20.10. I love me, beauty&fashion fair, Messukeskus 23–27.10. Helsinki International Horse Show, Helsinki Ice Hall 24–27.10. Helsinki Book Fair, Wine & Food, Messukeskus Carnival of Light, Linnanmäki Amusement Park NOVEMBER 1–9.11. Moving in November Dance Festival 2–10.11. Etnosoi!, world music festival 15–17.11. GoExpo Winter, OutletExpo, Messukeskus 21–22.11. Slush, startup event, Messukeskus 23.11–22.12. International Christmas Market Baltic Circle – International Theatre Festival 24.11. Opening of the Christmas Street, Aleksanterinkatu November–January Helsinki Christmas Cribs November–January Winter Circus, Dance Theatre Hurjaruuth DECEMBER 1–8.12. We Jazz, jazz festival 3–4.12. Studia, education fair, Messukeskus 6.12. Finnish Independence Day 7–8.12. International Dog Show, Messukeskus 13.12. Lucia Parade, starts from Helsinki Cathedral 15.12. Seurasaari Christmas Path, Seurasaari Open-Air Museum until 22.12. International Christmas Market, Senate Square 31.12. New Year’s Eve celebrations, music, fireworks Helsinki Christmas Market, Senate Square Helsinki Christmas Market Senate Square

More events: myhelsinki.fi 2020 Via Crucis – Ecumenical Easter play Senate Square JANUARY 16–19.1. Matka Nordic Travel Fair, Messukeskus 17–19.1. Caravan Fair, Messukeskus 27.1–2.2. DocPoint – Helsinki Documentary Film Festival 31.1–2.2. MP, Motor Cycle Fair, Messukeskus Helsinki Antique, Art & Collector Fair, Cable Factory Lux Helsinki, light festival Helsinki Sauna Day FEBRUARY 7–16.2. Vene Båt, Helsinki International Boat Show, Messukeskus Red Pearl Women’s Clown Festival, Dance Theatre Hurjaruuth Side Step Festival, dance festival, Cable Factory MARCH GoExpo, Helsinki Horse Fair, Messukeskus Helsinki Handicraft Fair, Wanha Satama Helsinki Ink, international tattoo event, Cable Factory Helsinki Sauna Day APRIL 11.4. Easter Bonfires, Seurasaari Open-Air Museum 30.4. May Day Eve Celebration – students give Havis Amanda a wash and her graduation hat at 6pm, Market Square American Car Show, Tuning Car Show, MC Heaven, Motorsport, Messukeskus Animatricks Festival, animation films Child, ELMA, Hupicon, fair, Messukeskus Helsinki Beer Festival, Cable Factory Helsinki Coffee Festival, Cable Factory Ruutia! Dance Festival for Children and Young, Dance Theatre Hurjaruuth Spring Fair, Own Yard, Own Home, Own Cabin, Interior Decoration Fair, Local & Organic Food, Messukeskus Via Crucis –Stages of the Cross, Kaisaniemi Park – Senate Square Easter Bonfires, Seurasaari Open-Air Museum MAY 1.5. May Day, student and national celebrations, including traditional picnics in Kaivopuisto Park Cirko – Helsinki Contemporary Circus Festival, Cirko Centre Cleaning Day, flea markets all over the city Helsinki City Running day, running event Lovely Helsinki, city festival Marimekko Fashion Show, Esplanade Park Women’s 10K Fun Run – from Töölö Sports Hall World Village Festival, Kaisaniemi Park Marimekko Fashion Show Esplanade Park JUNE 12.6. Helsinki Day, birthday events throughout the city in Esplanade Park, Senate Square etc. 19.6. Midsummer Bonfires, Seurasaari Island Espafolk Event, folk & and dances, Esplanade Park Helsinki Pride, festival for sexual minorities Helsinki Samba Carnaval, Senate Square Les Lumières – Enlightenment Cultural Festival, Suomenlinna MeriViapori, boating event for wooden vessels, Suomenlinna Sea Fortress Tuska Festival, metal music festival, Suvilahti June–July Summer in Alppipuisto, park concerts during weekends, Alppipuisto Park June–August Helsinki Organ Summer, in churches

12.6. День города В свой день рождения Хельсинки очаровывает как горожан, так и гостей города. Это настоящий городской праздник, расцвеченный весёлыми мероприятиями для всех возрастов. helsinkipaiva.fi 28.–30.6. Музыкальный фестиваль Tuska Tuska - cамый крупный в Северных странах фестиваль тяжелого металла. На фестивале выступят известные исполнители как из Финляндии, так и мировые звезды хеви-метал. tuska-festival.fi в ти ич на бна ар ка © Ee t u Aha я я рм ne n 16.8–1.9. Хельсинкский фестиваль Хельсинкский фестиваль – это крупнейший в Финляндии фестиваль искусств, который включает концерты от классической до популярной и этнической музыки, предлагает сценические представления от классического театра до перформанса современного танца, разнообразные детские мероприятия. helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi 22.8. Ночь искусств В ночь искусств во многие музеи Хельсинки вход свободный. Режим работы художественных галерей и музеев продлен. На улицах города проводятся бесплатные выставки и выступления. helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi 8.–13.7. Молодёжный футбольный турнир Helsinki Cup Helsinki Cup – один из крупнейших европейских молодёжных футбольных 5.–15.9. Helsinki Design Week турниров, в котором участвуют сотни команд Helsinki Design Week – это настоящий праздсо всего мира. Июльское футбольное зрелище ник для любителей дизайна, моды и архизаполнит улицы столицы тысячами молодых тектуры. Уже традиционными стали такие игроков и болельщиков. мероприятия, как Design Market, Open House helsinkicup.fi Helsinki и Pecha Kucha Night. e H l l s i t s e s n © Ju helsinkidesignweek.com l ow F ь 9.–11.8. Фестиваль Flow ал Музыкально-культурное 6.–12.10. Столичная рыбная столичное мероприятие ярмарка Flow Festival наводнит Столичная рыбная (а точнее район Сувилахти – салачная) ярмарка – интереснейшими финSilakkamarkkinat – старейшее скими и иностранными традиционное событие исполнителями и произфинской столицы, ведущее ведениями визуального свою историю с 1743 года. искусства. На множестве прилавков и flowfestival.com прямо с рыболовных судов вам предложат маринованную салаку Фе с Ст ол Основные мероприятия в Хельсинки в 2019–2020 годах ы яр под разными соусами и другие деликатесы. stadinsilakkamarkkinat.fi 21.–22.11. Slush Slush – это мероприятие для стартапов и технологических компаний, помогающее молодому бизнесу установить контакты с влиятельными международными фирмами, инвесторами и СМИ. slush.org Рождественские ярмарки Давней рождественской традицией является открытие базаров, в том числе и рождественской ярмарки (Ярмарки Туомаса, Tuomaan markkinat) на Сенатской площади. tuomaanmarkkinat.fi В начале января Фестиваль света Lux Helsinki Фестиваль света Lux Helsinki станет незабываемым впечатлением для всех органов чувств в самое тёмное время года. Бесплатный общегородской фестиваль расцветит улицы яркими огнями зрелищных световых произведений и инсталляций. luxhelsinki.fi

Amos R ex © Mi ka H Мо рс ко й an sm ui ба нA ей сс l las orit Salutskij © D ЧЕМ ЗАНЯТЬСЯ В ХЕЛЬСИНКИ ль о т ек а «Оо ди» © Tuom as U u sh ei m o нт ра на бл и -с а Новый художественный музей Amos Rex с августа 2018 года является многофункциональным культурным центром сердца Хельсинки. Музей и выставочные залы расположены на подземном уровне под площадью за зданием Стеклянного дворца (фин.Lasipalatsi) Mannerheimintie 22-24 amosrex.fi йн Ди за Дизайн-сауна Löyly открыла свои двери весной 2016 года, расположившись в центре города по адресу: Hernesaarenranta 4. В современном комплексе разместился ресторан финской кухни, с обширной террасы которого приятно наслаждаться не только едой, но и потрясающими морскими пейзажами. Сауна Löyly стала настоящей дизайнерской достопримечательностью и ярким образцом современного деревянного зодчества. loylyhelsinki.fi Морской бассейн Allas - это новая концепция спа, вдохновленная историческим наследием здравниц Балтийского побережья. Комплекс расположен по адресу: Katajanokanlaituri 2a в двух шагах от Торговой площади Хельсинки. Купание, сауна, культурный досуг, развлечения и ресторан с отличной едой ждут посетителей круглый год. allasseapool.fi и яб Це В декабре прошлого года в центре Хельсинки рядом с железнодорожным вокзалом открылась новая центральная библиотека Oodi. Это не столько книгохранилище, сколько живое и функциональное место для встреч и досуга горожан и гостей города. На первом этаже имеется кафе, кинотеатр на 150 мест, институт кино и многофункциональный зал. Второй посвя¬щён обучению: разнообразные кружки, мастерские, а также гордость библиотеки Oodi – полностью оснащённая студия звукозаписи. На третьем уровне расположены тради¬ционная библиотека на 100 000 книг, а также балкон-смотровая площадка.Töölönlahdenkatu 4 oodihelsinki.fi ун öy аL ly © Pek ka Ker änen Туристическое бюро Хельсинки +358 (0)9 3101 3300 | myhelsinki.fi/ru Центр Билетный зал Центрального ж/д вокзала VR Аэропорт Helsinki Терминал 2 – Зона прибытия 2A Работаем ежедневно

ACT I VI T I E S T E XT BY T I M B I R D Attracted to Helsinki – Sights and attractions Helsinki is a pocket-sized city and its sights are almost all within walking distance. Still, there is plenty to see in Helsinki. IF YOU ARRIVE in Helsinki on one of the enormous cruise ferries from Stockholm, you will disembark in the South Harbour, in the heart of Helsinki and walking distance from many of its attractions. Set off in a straight line in almost any direction, and before long you will find yourself on a stretch of coast. Much of the city’s parkland, including the central favourite, Kaivopuisto, also spills down to the rocky shorelines of the Gulf of Finland. The historical area close to the South Harbour is also a good place to start your exploration of the city. When Finland was transferred from Swedish to Russian rule in 1809, the Tsarist rulers of the new Grand Duchy decided to switch the capital from Turku, which is in the southwest, to Helsinki. The architect Carl Ludvig Engel was commissioned to design a new city centre that would be fitting for a capital; the cluster of majestic neo-classical buildings that resulted, surrounding the Senate Square and close to the Market Square, remains Helsinki’s distinctive historic centre. The blindingly white Lutheran Cathedral, with its green domes and wide, sweeping steps leading down to the ample Senate Square and the statue of Alexander II, is probably Helsinki’s best-known and most admired symbol, while the columns and facades of the surrounding 19th century buildings are reminiscent of the imperial centre of St. Petersburg. Between the Senate Square and the Market Square are the Tori Quarters, historical buildings that have been recently renovated. There are restaurants, shops and an indie movie theatre. When you arrive at the Market Square, you will meet the fountain statue of Havis Amanda - the focus of student partying on May 1st - and the Kappeli restaurant and café at the eastern end of the Esplanade park are to your right as you approach the waterfront. Across the road to your left, the main Market Square – a bustle of colourful stalls in summer, and a huddle of canopies in winter – spills out across the cobbled quayside, while across the harbour to your right is the indoor Market Hall, where culinary delights are waiting for you. 44 Discover Helsinki

Completed in 1868 in the Katajanokka district of Helsinki, the Uspenski Cathedral is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. ALEX BAO / HELSINKI MARKETING

ACT I VI T I E S The fortress island of Suomenlinna is a UNESCO World Heritage site and attracts over 800,000 visitors a year. BRUEV / ISTOCKPHOTO 46 Discover Helsinki

From the Market Square, you can turn and admire the line of pastelcoloured historical buildings, from the calm blue of the City Hall to the creamy yellow of the Presidential Palace. Nearby, and visible from the Market Square on the edge of the Katajanokka promontory, the red brick and golden cupolas of the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral are another reminder of Helsinki’s eastern heritage. This Cathedral has the most richly decorated interior of any church – and possibly any building at all – in the city, and makes a memorable and rewarding detour. The SkyWheel Helsinki opposite the Cathedral is the newest landmark of Helsinki. A ride takes approximately 15 minutes and costs 12 euros. There is a new outdoor sea pool complex called Allas Sea Pool next to the SkyWheel Helsinki. The spa’s pools and saunas are open year-round, and there are a couple of bars in the complex. The area has developed in the past few years and it has become quite interesting. Just across the street from Allas on a street called Kanavaranta there are several idyllic restaurants and bars. It is a great area for partying hard on a warm summer evening and a romantic setting for a candle-lit dinner on a darkening autumn night. Island beauty On the seaward horizon from the Market Square, you’ll catch a glimpse of the church tower that doubles as a lighthouse on the island fortress of Suomenlinna, and it is also from the Market Square that the passenger ferries depart for the fortress. Suomenlinna is Helsinki’s top tourist attraction and worth a visit at any time of the year. Another island attraction brimming with Finnish history, and also worth a visit in any season, is Seurasaari. North of the city centre, the island holds Helsinki’s Open Air Museum of historic rural buildings, collected from around the country and reconstructed in a peaceful woodland setting. Here, most motor vehicles and even bicycles are prohibited, and the forested island is a relaxing haven from the bustle of the city. Watch out for the hungry and very tame squirrels as you explore the maze of footpaths crisscrossing the island. Windmills, granaries, entire mansions and manors, boathouses and other meticulously reassembled structures are dotted through the woods. Seurasaari is also the traditional home of the Finnish Midsummer festival, with bonfires, dancing and other celebrations. The old church is a popular venue for weddings both then and throughout the summer. Some sightseeing cruise boats that depart from the Market Square stop at Seurasaari, but by land you can reach it along a wooden causeway, close to the final stop of the no. 24 bus. You can combine your visit to Seurasaari with a tour of the former home of the late President Urho

ACT I VI T I E S Kekkonen, the architect of Finland’s post-war political policy. Today it serves as a museum, and its renovated interior has been preserved in the 1970s style that existed during the President’s term of office. There are a couple of charming cafés in the area, including the Tamminiemi Café, the interior of which is like an elegant scene from a play by Chekhov. E xplore architectural showpieces Heading back from Seurasaari, you will pass close to several other main Helsinki attractions. One of these is the Sibelius monument, a tribute to Finland’s best-loved composer, made from silver tubes that evoke the pipes of an organ. The monument is in the small Sibelius Park, close to a picturesque stretch of shoreline. The no. 24 bus back into town also goes through the Töölö area, close to the Temppeliaukio church, known in English as “the Church in the Rock”. The romanticism of the art nouveau Jugendstil theme is expressed in the turrets, rural motifs and quirky granite detail of the National Museum on Mannerheimintie 34. The National Theatre at the Railway Station Square is another such example, fronted by a statue of Finnish poet and playwright Aleksis Kivi. As for the main Railway Station itself, no rail terminus in the world can match this creation by Eliel Saarinen for character and idiosyncrasy. Its arched façade, guarded on either side by two lamp-holding granite figures, has reminded more than one observer of an early radio set. On the opposite side of the Railway Station Square, is the highlyvenerated Ateneum Art Museum, one part of the Finnish National Gallery which houses Finnish works dating back from the 18th to the mid-20thcentury. Contemporary art of the Finnish National Gallery is housed in the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma, one of Helsinki’s more controversial and modern structures, adjacent to the main Post Office and the statue of the horse-borne Marshal Mannerheim. The space-age transparent cube of Sanomatalo, the headquarters of Finland’s biggest media group, is also nearby, and next to it the Helsinki music centre Musiikkitalo. The stern edifice of the Parliament, also on Mannerheimintie, was also extended with a modern annex. This whole area has undergone dramatic developments in recent years, and these changes to the city’s central profile are continuing, underlying Finland’s forward-looking dynamism. The newest addition to the area is the Central Library Oodi that opened its doors in 2018. Oodi is not just a place to borrow books. It is public space open to all, featuring spaces for working and meeting others as well as a cinema, a café and an urban workshop. 48 Discover Helsinki ff! o e k a t r o f e Prepar /h of air flow most 300km of freefall, al th or ÖNI.FI w FÖ s er Six kilomet at Fööni! iving feelings yd sk g in az and am Kalasatama

• OUTDOOR HEATED POOL, SEA WATER POOL, KIDS POOL • TRADITIONAL FINNISH SAUNA • WELLNESS CLASSES AND COURSES • NO RESERVATION NEEDED L O O P A E S S ALLA ry day from e v e n e p O i. k heart of Helsinsseapool.fi e th in a e s e by th w.alla A unique oasisening, all year round. ww morning to ev • ALLAS WINE & DINE (2ND FLOOR): OUTSTANDING LUNCH AND DINNER • ALLAS CAFÉ & TERRACE: OPEN DAILY ALL DAY Stunning views over the Baltic Sea and historical Helsinki. Biggest terraces in Helsinki.

ACT IVI T I E S Further along Mannerheimintie are a few more landmarks on the central Helsinki skyline. First is the Finlandia concert and congress hall, whose graceful white lines on the edge of the Töölönlahti Bay and Hesperia Park are the work of Finland’s most celebrated architect, Alvar Aalto. The perhaps less graceful, but no less striking Opera House is a short distance further along the shore. A little way to the north is the white tower of the Olympic Stadium, the stage for the Helsinki 1952 Olympic Games and still the top outdoor sports venue. Your reward at the top of the tower is one of the best views of the city, from the dome of the Cathedral to the south to the administrative blocks of Pasila in the north. ••• HELSINKI WINTER GARDEN Neighbouring the Helsinki Olympic Stadium in Töölönlahti is a quiet and delightful garden called the Talvipuutarha, or Winter Garden. Beautiful and serene, the garden is housed in a striking glass building comprised of three rooms that contain a variety of exotic plants. The Garden was founded in 1893 and has been a recreational meeting spot for Helsinki residents for over a hundred years. There are over 200 different plant varieties, with some displays varying according to season. During the winter, the hot tropical interior makes for a calm and warm respite from the often freezing cold outside. Bring snacks or a book, or just relax while admiring the greenery. Cactus and palms, orchids and other flowers fill the rooms, and a French-style balcony in the central room gives a lovely view overlooking the pool with its gentle fountain and barbels swimming lazily below. In the summer the outdoor gardens are a wonderful place to have a picnic. The Rose Garden is in bloom during summer and into fall, usually until September. At Christmastime, traditional seasonal flowers like hyacinths and azaleas are displayed, and at Easter you can see the daffodils and Easter lilies in bloom. An idyllic and ideal spot to have a moment of quiet relaxation during your visit to Helsinki! Address: Hammarskjöldintie 1A, 00250, Helsinki Opening hours: Tuesday 9 – 15; Wed – Fri 12 – 15; Sat – Sun 12 – 16; Mondays closed. Entry is free! MARITTA JONES / DISCOVER HELSINKI

Enjoy the city of Helsinki up from 40 meters SkyWheel Helsinki offers you amazing views over the sea, city and surrounding islands Try our special experiences: • Veuve Clicquot VIP Experience • Original SkySauna open all year round Katajanokanlaituri 2, 00160 Helsinki I +358 40 480 4604 info@skywheel-helsinki.com I www.skywheel.fi

ACT I VI T I E S T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Helsinki with children Helsinki is a child-friendly city with several public playgrounds, free museums and exciting experiences like tree-climbing or hanging out with the Moomins. COMPARED TO MANY other capitals Helsinki is a very calm city, which makes it very attractive to families travelling with children. The traffic is relatively light and it is easy to move around with children. To top it all, you are entitled to free travel on buses, trains and trams when you are travelling with a child aged 6 or younger in a pram or pushchair. Most of the department stores and shopping centres have play areas and childcare facilities. You can change diapers, heat up food and let the older kids play on the 6th floor at Stockmann, the 3rd floor of the Kamppi shopping centre or the newish 3rd floor of Forum shopping centre. Main attractions for children The amusement park at Linnanmäki is Finland’s most-visited attraction, and its spring opening is a major annual event on the calendar of Helsinki children. As well as a selection of rides and attractions of varying degrees of scariness, Linnanmäki houses Sea Life, an excellent aquarium and marine education centre. If you still have some energy left after a day at Linnanmäki, Tropicario, a tropical animal house is near by at Sturenkatu 27. Another major Helsinki attraction for children takes us back to the sea and over to the island zoo of Korkeasaari, which you can reach by ferry either from the Market Square orthe square at Hakaniemi, as well as by footbridge from Kulosaari in eastern Helsinki. Animals indigenous to the north, including elk, lynx and reindeer, are well represented, but there is a generous selection of exotica, such as camels, lions and snow leopards. The Natural History Museum at Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 13 is the third most popular museum in Finland. You can stop at the feet of a dinosaur or listen to the sounds of wild African animals. The Tram Museum (Töölönkatu 51 A) is located at the oldest tram depot in Helsinki. The museum, for which entry is free, houses a small but interesting collection of trams, and there are also old uniforms and tram tickets on show. You may step inside some of the old trams. 52 Discover Helsinki

The Helsinki Day celebrations will begin on June with a special programme especially for families and children. JUSSI HELLSTEN / HELSINKI MARKETING

ACT I VI T I E S The recently renovated Lasten Kaupunki / Chlidren’s Town Museum (Aleksanterinkatu 16) is open every day and the entry is always free. Children can learn more about the city’s history through doing and experiencing things for themselves. The museum is a small gem and a visit there is highly recommended. The Finnish Toy Museum Hevosenkenkä (Ahertajantie 5, Espoo) is a toy museum for the whole family located in the WeeGee Exhibition Centre in the neighbouring city of Espoo. Playing is definitely allowed as there are numerous play areas including a very popular indoor slide. Take the metro to Tapiola and the museum is a short walk away. Activities for the whole family There are several free playgrounds in central Helsinki. The most centrally located are quite small (for example, the ones at Vanha kirkkopuisto, Lönnrotinkatu 6 or Kaisaniemi park), but a few bus stops away from the centre you’ll find nice parks by the sea. At Kaivopuisto park (Puistokatu 4) there is a fairly large playground with a sea view. If it should rain during your stay, try one of the indoor adventure parks. The ones nearest to the city centre are HopLop at the Ruoholahti Shopping Centre (Itämerenkatu 21, metro station: Ruoholahti) and Helsingin leikkiluola / Helsinki Playground (Sörnäisten rantatie 6). The little ones can release their energy by running, bouncing, jumping and climbing. Salmisaaren Liikuntakeskus at Ruoholahti has indoor climbing, indoor beach volley, bowling and several other sports facilities. The Redi shopping centre (Hermannin rantatie 5) houses an indoor climbing wall and also has a free play area where you can let your kids loose while you relax. The new Central Library Oodi (Töölönlahdenkatu 4) in the heart of the city has a small indoor play area. A recently opened indoor miniature golf centre, Hohtogolf West Coast (Yrjönkatu 24), offers unique excitement right in the heart of central Helsinki. A crazy set of special effects creates an atmosphere of laughter and horror while putting through a number of tracks that you’ve never played before. A perfect break, especially if the weather is not at its best, for a family or group of friends. The newest addition to the Helsinki area’s adventure parks is the Dudesons Activity Park at the Iso Omena shopping centre in Espoo. The activity park has bagjump and foampit jumping areas, a ninja track and a large freestyle area. Rush Trampoline park (Valimotie 25) has 2,800 square metres dedicated to jumping adventures. The park has a large free jump area as 54 Discover Helsinki Have a great summer adventure at Korkee Park. Located in Mustikkamaa, only 4 km from city center and NEW park at Paloheinä, near by the airport. Kids trail’s 3–6 yrs 15 € • Youth/Adult trail’s 25 € More information www.korkee.fi

toyshop Climate friendly wooden toys and fair trade products. www.tingeling.fi yrjönkatu 34, helsinki Children’s Shop Le Bunuell Children’s Brand Clothing shop Le Bunuell is located in downtown of Helsinki. Brands are: Karl Lagerfeld, little Marc Jacobs, Lapin House, Colmar, Monnalisa, Il Gufo, Lili Gaufrette, Kenzo, Ver de Terre, Billieblush, Boss, Timberland and etc. Bulevardi 5, 00120 Helsinki Opening hours: Monday–Friday 10.15–17.00 Saturday 10.15–15.00 Tel. +358 45 801 4140, Email: info@lebunuell.fi www.lebunuell.fi ZICCO Playful and colourful children`s store. Mon-Fri 10–18, Sat 10–15. Fredrikinkatu 24 @ziccohelsinki

ACT I VI T I E S well as special areas for extreme dodgeball, trampoline basketball and the like. If it is outdoor adventures that you are looking for, there are three tree-top parks in Helsinki. The two branches of Adventure Park Korkee (Mustikkamaanpolku 2 or Pakilantie 124) have several adventure trails both for adults and for small children, ranging from easy to very challenging. Adventure Park Zippy (Huopalahdentie 28) challenges you to go through the course from tree to tree using climbing walls, ladders, swings and trapezes. See also page 98 for sports activities in Helsinki. Eating and shopping Although practically all restaurants in Helsinki are very child-friendly with efficient service, high chairs and menu options for kids, it can still be hard to find a perfect restaurant for the whole family. Among the most child-friendly options is Skidilä, a café for children located at the Annantalo children’s culture centre (Annankatu 30). Try this lovely place for lunch, a cinnamon roll or just hanging out with your children. Don’t miss a chance to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate with Moomintroll and friends at Moomin Café (Fabianinkatu 29) located just a stone’s throw away from the Helsinki Cathedral. This adorable café is the only one of its kind in Europe. Café Köket (Aleksanterinkatu 28) serves breakfast, lunch and brunch, and has a playroom for the smallest visitors. If you wish to shop for something original for your kids, try Punavuoren Peikko (Uudenmaankatu 15) for ecological and stylish Scandinavian clothes. Fiilinki (Fredrikinkatu 57 & Lasipalatsi, Mannerheimintie 22-24) sells maternity clothes and quality clothes for children. Zicco (Fredrikinkatu 24) is a colourful and stylish children’s lifestyle store selling toys, clothes and gifts. Kruunukirppu (Mariankatu 12) has a very nice selection of toys and children’s second hand clothes. Do you have a LEGO fan travelling with you? Pii Poo Helsinki (Albertinkatu 46), specialising in LEGO, is just the place for you. The shop has a large selection of LEGO sets as well as loose bricks. A children’s book by a Finnish author is an excellent souvenir from Finland. You can find a large selection of books in English at the Akateeminen kirjakauppa bookstore (Keskuskatu 1). The independent Nide bookstore (Fredrikinkatu 35) has a lovely, well-curated selection of international children’s books. •••


Amusement park in the middle of Helsinki! Experience the classic wooden Roller Coaster or one of over 40 other rides and delicious foods with the whole family. Visit the Panoraama sightseeing tower and admire Helsinki’s scenery. Open every day, entrance to the amusement park is free of charge. Come and spend your vacation’s merriest day! Linnanmaki.fi/en

IPPU FUN TOUR -L Tornimäentie 10, 02970 Espoo 4 1 , 50 € Vähikkäläntie 11, 12400 Tervakoski

S E A T E XT BY A R I L AH DE N MÄK I Helsinki – Never far from water The coastal waters off Helsinki are dotted with islands of all shapes and sizes. It is not without reason that Helsinki is often dubbed “the Daughter of the Baltic”. THE TRADITIONAL WAY to arrive in Finland’s capital is by sea. Solitary, rugged islets and skerries, often inhabited only by the gulls, come into view long before reaching the harbour. Larger islands gradually appear to port and starboard, hinting that the mainland is close. It is perhaps the best way to arrive in Helsinki, as it allows you to observe the beauty of the archipelago at leisure. Discover living history The main fairway into Helsinki’s South Harbour passes through the narrow strait known as Kustaanmiekka (“Gustav’s Sword”). To the right, the landscape of Vallisaari, which is owned by the Finnish Defence Forces, looks practically untouched but it can be quite a different scene when you look left, to the island of Kustaanmiekka. On warm summer days both tourists and locals fill the pathways alongside the striking fortress walls of Suomenlinna, which is spread across Kustaanmiekka and the surrounding group of islands. The naval fortress of Suomenlinna is one of Helsinki’s most popular sights, and its fascinating history and unique military architecture led to its recognition in 1991 as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Work on the construction of Suomenlinna began in 1748, when Finland was still a part of the burgeoning kingdom of Sweden. Sweden wished to have a naval fortress to protect its eastern outpost from Russia, which posed a threat to Swedish dominance in the Northern Baltic. Helsinki in those days was a small and largely irrelevant town. The fort was given the name Sveaborg, and in Finnish it became known as Viapori. It was a city of its own, with a population considerably larger than that of Helsinki on the mainland. The 62 Discover Helsinki


On a fine day, the Walhalla terrace offers wonderful views S E A out to the open sea and the outer islands. cosmopolitan officer class at the garrison also maintained a lively cultural life on the islands, which still flourishes today. In 1808, despite their greater numbers and the relative impregnability of the fortifications, the forces on Viapori surrendered to the Russians. Next year, Finland became incorporated into Russia as an autonomous Grand Duchy. The fortifications and artillery, designed to guard against a threat from the east, would now look westwards instead. Under Russian rule, there was a large military garrison stationed on Viapori, with more than 13,000 soldiers at its highest point. Helsinki underwent a dramatic change, too: from 1812 it was made into the Grand Duchy’s new capital city. The former capital Turku was suddenly seen as “too close to Sweden for comfort”. Viapori witnessed yet more construction work, including a church. The original church was to serve the Orthodox faith, but when Finland declared herself independent in 1917 the traditional onion domes were removed and it was reconsecrated as a Lutheran place of worship. Interestingly, the church tower also contains a lighthouse, which still guides ships and aircraft into Helsinki. In 1918 the fortress islands were re-named Suomenlinna.The military importance of the fortifications gradually declined, and in 1973 Suomenlinna passed into the hands of a civil administration. Suomenlinna today These days Suomenlinna is home to families and artists and is a part of the City of Helsinki, with a total year-round population of about 800. Access to the islands is possible from Helsinki’s South Harbour, with a ferry plying the short distance from the mainland from early morning until late at night. In the summer a number of waterbuses also include Suomenlinna on their itineraries. Suomenlinna remains an important cultural centre, with museums, galleries, restaurants, and cafés. The old shipyard is active in restoring wooden sailing vessels. Among the many museums worth looking into is the Doll & Toy Museum, which has a delightful collection of doll houses and toys dating from the 1830s onwards, and is as attractive to adults as it is to children. 64 Discover Helsinki On Kustaanmiekka, the southernmost part of the island group, you can find Pizzeria Nikolai and Walhalla, a gourmet restaurant. Walhalla got its name from the famous Walhalla-orden, one of Viapori’s many secret societies during the Swedish period. On a fine day, the Walhalla terrace offers wonderful views out to the open sea and the outer islands. At around six in the evening, you can also watch the colossal ferries on their way to and from Sweden. They pass through what seems to be an impossibly narrow channel towards the open sea, so close that you might be tempted to reach out and touch them! Some may argue that the best panoramic views in Helsinki can be found at the terrace of Café Piper, which is on a gentle hill with a beautiful summer garden on neighbouring Susisaari. Here you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Gulf of Finland, and enjoy a cold beer while indulging in endless ship-spotting. Suomenlinna also boasts a brewery of its own. Suomenlinna Brewery Restaurant, located only a few steps from the ferry, serves food made from fresh Finnish ingredients and their own beers. Magpie and other hidden treasures The area immediately to the south of the city itself is littered with small islets, many of which have scheduled boat connections in the summer months. One of the most interesting is Harakka (“Magpie”), a birdwatchers’ paradise just a few dozen metres from the quay known as Merisatama. Numerous artists’ studios here also guarantee that Harakka offers interesting, often avant-garde exhibitions and events around the year. Boats to Harakka leave from Ullanlinna near Café Ursula. The most recent island attractions in Helsinki are Vallisaari and Kuninkaansaari, former military islands that haveonly been open to visitors since 2016 . These enchanting islands share a combination of aging military fortifications and wild nature, with the richest range of species that can be found in the Helsinki metropolitan area. The islands can be reached by waterbus from the Market Square during the summer season. Another newcomer is Lonna, whichopened to visitors a few years ago. The small island has a restaurant, café and waffle bar where you can even buy a ready-packed picnic basket.

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A sightseeing trip by boat is one of the best ways S E A to get to know Helsinki and its history. Pihlajasaari is one of the most popular islands, due to its sandy beaches that make for great sun-bathing and swimming. It has an official nude beach on the eastern side, and camping is allowed on weekends at a cost of EUR 15/day. Boats to Pihlajasaari leave from Eira, near Café Carusel. In the summer it is possible to eat out away from the noise of the city, with several island restaurants to choose from. One of the best known is Saaristo, which is housed in a lovely wooden villa on a small island next to Kaivopuisto Park and the Olympia Terminal, where the large white Silja Line ferries dock. It is only a short boat ride away from the Olympia Terminal. Särkänlinna (on the little islet known as Särkkä) is housed in an old arms store that can accommodate 120 people. Don’t be alarmed here if the floor of the restaurant dining room seems to be sloping towards the kitchen. This is a remnant from the previous use of the building: the floor was constructed with a slight slope so that cannon balls could easily be rolled from the storage to the guns. Close to this popular restaurant you can also find Uunisaari (literally “Oven Island”), which is known for its beach and its saunas. Here, too, there is a pleasant restaurant with a busy summer terrace. From the Merisatama quay a quick hop by boat takes you to Sirpalesaari where there is a summer restaurant, Saari. This place is highly popular in the late summer when the crayfish season is in full swing. Swinging back towards the South Harbour, the yacht club NJK has a restaurant on the island of Valkosaari, right in the heart of the harbour. The large panoramic windows of the building, which date from 1900, provide a dazzling view of the Market Square and the passenger vessels coming in and out of the harbour. Ships ahoy For anyone looking for solitude, there are lots of places around the coast to choose from if you know how to get there. Renting a boat makes it possible to find an undisturbed spot for a picnic all by yourself or just with your group. Boat rental outlets also offer fishing trips to proven waters in the Helsinki area. A sightseeing trip by boat is one of the best ways to get to know Helsinki and its history. As mentioned earlier, there are several places from which you can get on-board. You can choose between a number of com66 Discover Helsinki panies and routes for archipelago cruises. Some companies offer lunch or dinner cruises like Royal Line, and the ticket prices generally start at around 20 euros. Summer Helsinki is a dream destination for anyone who is into sailing. Local yacht clubs have numerous marinas and harbours with guest facilities, in the south, west, and eastern parts of the city, and there are also chandlers and boat supplies stores close by. Beach life With all this talk of boats, it might seem that they are a necessity. Not so! There are many beaches that can be enjoyed without having to cross the water to get to them. Hietaranta, or “Hietsu” as it is called by the locals, is the city’s best-known and most popular beach and it is easily accessible from downtown Helsinki Expect a lot of company on hot July days! Outside the city centre, there are also a number of attractive and unspoilt beaches that are worth checking out as the mercury rises. For instance, the beaches in the eastern districts of the city make it difficult to imagine you are in a highly-populated metropolitan area. Try the one at Kallahdenniemi for starters, down at the end of a gravel path fringed with spruce trees. Buses no. 560 and 816 will get you there from the Vuosaari metro station. From the Vuosaari metro station, you can also get to the Aurinkolahti beach. Aurinkolahti is informally known as the “Riviera of Helsinki” and is a nice place to visit on a sunny day. A 700-meter swimming beach and a marina are two of Aurinkolahti’s best features. The Pikkukoski swimming beach, which is arguably Helsinki’s most interesting beach, is rather ironically not by the sea at all. It is located onthe banks of the Vantaa River, in the district known as Oulunkylä. You can get there from downtown by bus or by train in around 45 minutes. After walking down a somewhat steep hill, the visitor is rewarded with an impressive sight: the river makes a small bay in the shelter of a high rock outcrop. The boldest jump into the water from a platform built on the top of the sheer cliff! The beach is not your only option for a refreshing swim in the city. You can head to the Helsinki Swimming Stadium (Hammarskjöldintie 5),

Spend a great day in Tallinn, Estonia. Day cruise departs from Helsinki every day. Seven hour stopover – explore the amazing city. m/s FINLANDIA 2019 HELSINKI TALLINN TALLINN HELSINKI 06.00  08.15 MON–SAT DAILY 09.00  11.15 12.00  DAILY 15.15  17.30 18.30  21.00 SUN–FRI 21.40  23.50 14.15 eckeroline.com Travel time 2 h 15 min (the 18.30 departure from Tallinn 2 h 30 min). Discover Helsinki 67

e a b m o o ard c l e W Step on dock you will meet the Capitan and crew of your private yacht. It is well prepared and has all necessary conveniences on board. Cruising route will be combined according to your preferences. It is wonderful opportunity to see the city from the waterside. Delicious meals (on request) will be prepare and serve for you during the trip, so you just need to relax and enjoy the signs and fresh air of Baltic Sea. Read more about Private yacht cruise at: www.aquablue.johku.com Choose our classic schooner, motor yachts or luxurious catamaran. which is a popular outdoor swimming venue near the Helsinki Olympic Stadium. Alternatively, you can visit the Kumpula Outdoor Swimming Pool (Allastie 1), which was built as a practice pool for the 1952 Summer Olympics. If you are looking for something special, try the Allas Sea Pool (Katajanokanlaituri 2), which is an outdoor pool complex with both warm-water and sea pools. It is located a stone’s throw away from the Market Square and is open all year round. The Baltic Sea – a Unique Ecosystem Today, the sea continues to play an important part in the lives of Helsinki residents. For example, the Helsinki Baltic Herring Market is held religiously every October, a long-standing tradition since 1743. The week-long event, which is held in and around the Market Square, continues to be a great favourite among visitors, with entertainment and lots of local fish delicacies to sample. Some of the fish on sale there will have had their origins in fish hatcheries, which place a burden on the fragile ecology of the Baltic Sea. The Baltic Sea is important to Finland, from both an economic and symbolic perspective, and efforts are being made to help this damaged sea recover and to prevent further damage from occurring. One of the first international environmental agreements was the Helsinki Convention of 1974, thereafter renewed in 1992, under which a number of countries agreed on undertaking measures to protect the Baltic marine environment. While a lot of work still needs to be done, there have been significant improvements over the past few years. Only one out of ten pollution “hotspots” in Finnish waters remains, and Finland continues to fight the battle for a cleaner, ‘greener’ Baltic Sea through both local and international initiatives. ••• Tip! Helsinki is surrounded by Stockholm (Sweden) in the east, St Petersburg (Russia) in the west, Tallinn (Estonia) in the North, and the Gulf of Finland in the south. @aquablue.fi Discover Helsinki 69

Helsinki – a place where you can be yourself To m An na Ju lia You might want to pay a visit also to Nudge, In Helsinki you can rest your head on a the downtown area. The Suomenlinna sea which offers stylish, ethical and ecofriendgreen pillow, wherever you are. Crowds are fortress, a UNESCO World and it Finl ly clothes and accessories for adults, only steps away from the forest, so your Heritage Site, is one of Vis / lä jewellery, interior decoration, natural mind has space to breathe. Though Helsinki Finland’s most popular ve i K cosmetics and gifts. is more happening than ever, its quietness tourist destinations nudge.fi – the utter lack of noise – is exceptional. The as well as home to energetic, growing city hasn’t surrendered around 900 HelsinEnjoy Helsinki on a plate its tranquility, silence and clean air. Helsinki kians. breathes the sea with a shoreline of Juuri is a pioneer in local The former military o / Grön 130 kilometres. There are many and organic food in isal island of Vallisaari lm a S public saunas to experience the Helsinki. The restauis situated near magic of an authentic Finnish rant was created Suomenlinna was sauna and a marine spa right to promote the use opened to the public at the heart of the city. of authentic Finnish in 2016 and has quickly flavours and Finland’s become a firm local favouYour local guide to a unique culinary culture. Don’t rite for a day trip. The combisustainable city go away without tasting their nation of old fortresses and the abundance experience specialty: sapas – like tapas of different species that have evolved in the only Finnish! What if making sustainable area over the centuries tell a unique story juuri.fi choices was as easy as using your of the coexistence of man and wild nature. favourite app? In summer 2019, Helsinki Visitors can explore the island of Vallisaari IPI is one of the most stylish cafés in Helsinis rolling out a service under MyHelsinki.fi only on marked paths. A cafe is open from ki, making it a joy to visit. There is seating on website called “Think Sustainably” that will May until September at the harbour. three floors, and natural light floods in enable users - locals and visitors alike - to from the huge windows. It serves niemi / Lonna s e The small and sympathetic Lonna is find the city’s most sustainable restaurants, or t a very popular brunch on SatiK located between the island group m shops, events and accommodation. This urdays and great breakfasts of Suomenlinna and the Market new digital service is based on sustainability and lunches on weekdays. Square. The former demining criteria that have been tailor-made for Helipikulmakuppila.fi island is now a wellness oasis. sinki and it helps locals and visitors to have The 1.5 km ferry trip from the a more sustainable city experience. Experience the Market Square takes around islands Shop design that lasts 10 minutes. The island can be Pack a day trip bag and enjoyed by sitting on the rocks When shopping, choose timeless Finnish dehead out to discover seaside or by getting acquainted with the sign. Garden – Center for Finnish Fashion, Helsinki. The city area includes island’s history in the museum spaclocated in the Kämp Galleria, which showaround 300 islands, many of which es. There is a restaurant, a popular waffle cases the best of Finnish fashion for both can be reached via ferries in just 10–20 minbar, and a public sauna. Helsinki locals and visitors. Garden includes utes. Some you can even walk to over bridgsuomenlinna.fi also three restaurants and TRE Gallery & es. Four popular island destinations can be vallisaari.fi Books store. reached with a ten-minute ferry ride from lonna.fi kampgalleria.com/garden

© City of Helsinki | Kuvio Community garden Vallila MyHelsinki.fi Your local guide to Helsinki. #myhelsinki

ARCH ITECTU R E T E XT BY MON A SCHA LI N Architecture in Helsinki – A mixture of east and west What does Helsinki have to offer visitors interested in architecture? Both architecturally and culturally, Helsinki is an idiosyncratic mix of eastern and western influence. The main theatres, museums, and concert halls are all centrally located, and many public and commercial buildings manifest outstanding architectural quality. HELSINKI IS YOUNGER and smaller than most of the other European capitals, and its spacious town plan gives it a horizontal skyline. There are plenty of parks and squares, and almost everywhere you sense the presence of the sea. The old centre was built on a narrow promontory, and the modern city has fanned out onto the mainland, where you can detect distinct layers of development in the stylistically unified zones, which alternate like year rings. The actual city centre is concentrated along Aleksanterinkatu and the main north-south thoroughfare Mannerheimintie. It star ted as a modest town Finland was part of the Swedish empire until the early nineteenth century. Helsinki was founded in 1550 by King Gustavus I Wasa at the mouth of the Vantaa River, to compete with the Hanseatic port of Tallinn across the Baltic, and to boost trade with Russia. In 1640, the town was shifted close to the area that is now Senaatintori (the Senate Square), which offered a better harbour. For another hundred years, Helsinki remained a very modest trading town. None of the buildings erected before 1750 managed to survive, having either burned down or been demolished to make way for subsequent development. The town received a sudden boost with the founding of the sea fortress of Sveaborg in 1748. It is presently known by its Finnish name, Suomenlinna. 72 Discover Helsinki

Baana, a walking and cycling path, leads directly to the recently opened Library Oodi. MARITTA JONES / DISCOVER HELSINKI

ARCH ITECTU R E Pastel-colored buildings line the picturesque street of Huvilakatu. TUOMAS UUSIHEIMO / VISIT FINLAND Tip! The characteristically yellow buildings of Helsinki date from the 19th century. Many of them were designed by C.L. Engel. 74 Discover Helsinki The yellow city is born In 1808, Russia invaded Finland. One year later Finland was ceded to Russia, and Helsinki was destroyed by a huge fire. More importantly, in 1812, Czar Alexander I declared Helsinki the new capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland. All this paved the way for a new town plan drawn up by Johan Albrecht Ehrenström. New buildings were designed by the Prussian architect Carl Ludvig Engel. When Engel first arrived, Helsinki had a mere 4,000 inhabitants. By the time he died in 1840, the figure had risen to 18,000, and the new townscape was dominated by light-coloured, plastered brick buildings and low, timbered log houses. The centrepiece was the new Senate Square around which were arranged the key institutions of government, religion, and higher learning. On the northern flank soared the Lutheran church of St. Nicholas, or Helsinki Cathedral. To this day, travellers arriving in Helsinki by sea are faced with this historic, Empire-style city centre. The wooden houses that once surrounded it have long since disappeared. However, the street layout between the Senate Square and Eteläsatama (the South Harbour) and Kauppatori (the Market Square) dates from the Swedish era,

as do some of the buildings, although many of the facades have been altered. Many of the characteristically yellow buildings you see in Helsinki date from this era, too. Towards metropolitanism The hectic construction that took place in the closing decades of the nineteenth century is everywhere in evidence in central Helsinki. Fourand five-storey commercial buildings and residential blocks were erected on Pohjoisesplanadi, Bulevardi, and Erottaja, designed in a style that emulated the architecture of Vienna and Berlin. The so-called period of Eclecticism produced many richly decorated buildings including Theodor Höijer’s Ateneum (which now houses the Museum of Finnish Art) and, by Gustaf Nyström, the National Archives of Finland, the House of Estates, Helsinki Market Hall, and the greenhouse of the Botanical Gardens. On an elevation just east of the Empire-style city centre, A. M. Gornostayev designed the Uspenski Cathedral, whose Byzantine silhouette makes a prominent contribution to the skyline of the South Harbour. The Bank of Finland (designed by the German architect Ludwig Bohnstedt), the National Archives of Finland, and the House of Estates form an imposing square of their own just north of the Senaatintori. Nouveau ideas Helsinki’s architecture offers many examples of turn of the century Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) and the classicism that followed. These styles can be studied in numerous public buildings. The National Museum, the National Theatre, and Eliel Saarinen’s Central Railway Station are some of the landmarks of this period. Of the original interiors that still survive, it is worth noting the Jugendsali on Pohjoisesplanadi 19, which is currently used for exhibitions, the restaurant of the Hotel Seurahuone, designed by Armas Lindgren, and the glazed atrium of the Helsinki Stock Exchange building on Fabianinkatu, designed by Lars Sonck. East of the Uspenski Cathedral stands the unique Katajanokka district, whose picturesque older streets are dominated by Art Nouveau features: massive stone gates, bay windows, and dreamlike turrets. Other early 20th-century Jugendstil delights can be found in the areas of Kruununhaka and Eira. Boldly modernist Finland declared independence in the aftermath of the Russian Revolution in 1917. In the first years of independence, architects entertained futuristic visions, dreaming of an American-style city centre. The nearest they got to a skyscraper was the 14-storey Hotel Torni (“Tower”) of 1931. To this day, the planning policy has been to maintain an unbroken, horizontal skyline. The most important public building project of the 1920s was the Finnish Parliament, designed by J. S. Sirén. Finally completed in 1931, the Parliament building stands on an elevation, and is an imposing, granite cube conceived in a classical idiom. The Stockmann department store further south on Mannerheimintie was completed around the same time. The Kunst-halle, or Taidehalli, by Jarl Eklund and Hilding Ekelund, is on Nervanderinkatu 3 and offers an elegant example of socalled Nordic Classicism, the predominant style of the 1910s and 1920s. Many examples of this restrained classicist idiom survive in the domestic architecture of the period. The suburb of Puu-Käpylä, with its colourful timber houses and leafy gardens, is one of the finest examples of the style, built on the scale of a small town. The Modern Movement entered Finnish architecture quite smoothly, without rancorous debate. The Lasipalatsi (“Glass Palace”) building on Mannerheimintie 22–24 still appears as a fresh Modernist statement. Initially intended as only a temporary structure, this two-storey complex is now a lovingly restored Functionalist shrine. Another glittering Modernist interior that has been restored is the famous Karl Fazer Café on Kluuvikatu. Finally, Alvar Aalto’s distinctive, sensuous brand of Modernism can be experienced at the Savoy restaurant on Eteläesplanadi 14. Today Modern Movement architecture is regarded as an integral part of our heritage. A g row i n g c i t y Finland suffered great hardship during the World War II, and the post-war reconstruction effort was not completed until the 1950s. With the burgeoning growth of the city in the 1950s and 1960s, the focus of new building shifted to the suburbs. Tapiola Garden City was built among pristine forests and meadows in Espoo, west of Helsinki. Tapiola became internationally famous for its spacious layout and meticulous landscape design. Public building in Helsinki escalated in the 1950s, the “Golden Age” of Finnish architecture. Numerous buildings were commissioned, among them the Helsinki School of Economics (Runeberginkatu 14–16) and the Porthania Building of Helsinki University (Yliopistonkatu 3). Discover Helsinki 75

ARCH ITECTU R E Because of the presence of buildings resembling St. Petersburg, many Hollywood films were shot in Helsinki. Can you name any? The renowned architect Alvar Aalto, who had already made his name in the 1930s, designed the main office of the National Pensions Institute of Finland, the House of Culture (Kulttuuritalo), and the socalled Rautatalo (“Iron House”) office building with its Marble Hall. Anyone who steps inside one of these interiors will sense Aalto’s special gift for creating fluid spatial sequences. A late Aalto masterpiece, the white, marble-clad Finlandia Hall (Mannerheimintie 13 E), also impresses with its foyer, auditorium, and congress wing. Amongst tourists, the best-known building in Helsinki is almost certainly the church at Temppeliaukio (Lutherinkatu 3). It is often known simply as “The Church in the Rock”, and is partially embedded in a granite outcrop. The gently-domed copper roof, large skylight windows, and impressive rough-hewn stone interior draw large crowds to the church, which was designed in the 1960s by two brothers, Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. The late 1970s represent a statistical watershed: approximately half the buildings in Finland have been completed after that time. The population of Helsinki multiplied as people from the country’s outlying regions inexorably moved south. and glazed shopping precincts have been created among the masonry buildings erected in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. A piece of original architecture is the Museum of Contemporary Art (Kiasma) by the American Steven Holl, which has won plaudits and stimulated debate. The newest addition to the area is Oodi, the Central Library that was opened in 2018. Combining traditional and contemporary architectural elements, its impressive design resembles an iceberg, visually resonating with its iconic neighbour Finlandia Talo. The library is located at Kansalaistori, next to Sanoma House and the Helsinki Music Centre. ••• AN ARCHITECTURAL GEM! Weekly Evening Service in English Helsinki today Various schemes to develop the area surrounding the inland bay of Töölönlahti have been aired during Finland’s independence. Three major cultural buildings have been completed on the shores of this inlet of the sea: Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall, Timo Penttilä’s Helsinki City Theatre (1967), and the Finnish National Opera (1993) by the Hyvämäki-Karhunen-Parkkinen partnership. The area is constantly developing. Facing Parliament on the other side of Mannerheimintie and next to the main Railway Station is the bastion of Helsingin Sanomat, the country’s largest daily newspaper. This large nine-storey cube has brought fresh glass architecture and a new scale of building to the heart of the city. It was designed by Antti-Matti Siikala and Jan Söderlund from SARC Architects. During the past few decades, major new developments in the city centre have taken place behind the historic facades, as new pedestrian routes 76 Discover Helsinki TEMPPELIAUKIO CHURCH 50 YEARS Lutherinkatu 3, Helsinki • temppeliaukionkirkko.fi

REMEMBER THESE TREASURES The Pohjola building (Aleksanterinkatu 44) with its abundant decorative sculpture is worth a stop during your shopping spree. For inner peace, spend a few quiet moments at the National Library of Finland (Unioninkatu 36) designed by C.L. Engel. For a peek of a different side of Helsinki, take the tram no. 7 to The Church of Rock was designed by the two brothers, Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. They started their work in 1968 by exploding a rocky outcrop. From the aerial view it appears like a UFO has collided with the ground. KUVIO / HELSINKI MARKETING Mäkelänkatu and visit the idyllic Puu-Vallila area, famous for its old wooden houses dating back to the early 20th century. Take a walk in the Linnunlaulu area around the Töölönlahti Bay for Chekhovian moments. The beautiful villas in the area were built between the 1870’s and 1880’s. Discover Helsinki 77

A R CH I T EC TU R E T E X T BY M A R I T TA J O N E S Oodi Library – Helsinki’s Cool New Living Room Helsinki’s new central library Oodi opened on December 5, the eve of Finland’s 101st Independence Day, a fitting celebration for one of the most literate nations in the world. LOCATED AT KANSALAISTORI Square in the heart of the city, Oodi is a transformative and multi-functional space, defying any notion of the library as a dated public institution. Viewed from the outside it is a work of architectural beauty, with an exterior comprised of elegant lines in wood, glass and steel. What’s Inside Equally impressive is what is found within. Oodi offers a contemporary take on the library, not merely providing the traditional, silent refuge for readers, but by allowing visitors to engage in a wide range of activities across its three floors. Each floor is designed with different functions in mind, with the overall goal of creating a public ‘living room’ that can be utilised by visitors in a variety of ways. The first floor comprises a spacious lobby area where one can visit the info desk and return book loans. It is a mutable space, with a multi-purpose hall capable of being extended into the lobby area for large events, as well as a cinema and restaurant and a Fazer café, which is also located on the 3rd floor. The second floor is a creator’s paradise, containing studios for music and film makers, a ‘Maker’s Space’ featuring 3D printers and a range of other tools, as well as rooms dedicated to study, work and children’s play. Traditional library services are located on the third floor, with 100,000 books on the shelves and over 3 million more available through the library’s advanced service system. The design of this floor captures the timeless beauty of Finnish nature, the pure colours of the wood flooring punctuated by well-placed trees, white walls and shelves and a view to the surrounding cityscape seen through softly tinted glass. Cosy corners and wide-open areas, under an undulating white ceiling that reminds one of the winter snow, create a wondrous space for reading and relaxation. In the summertime stunning views of the city can be enjoyed from the Citizens’ Balcony, including an exceptional view of the Finnish Parliament Building which is located directly across from Oodi. 78 Discover Helsinki

MARITTA JONES / DISCOVER HELSINKI In the Cultural Hear t of Helsinki The public’s enthusiasm for the new library can be seen in the astounding number of people it has welcomed, having received over one million visitors between it’s December opening. The development of Oodi has been an admirable exercise in democracy, involving the citizenry in the entire process, from the design of the building and its contents to the final selection of its name. It stands in excellent cultural company, neighboured by Finlandia Hall, Kiasma art museum, Sanoma media house and the Helsinki Music Centre. In the words of Helsinki Deputy Mayor Nasima Razmyar, “Oodi is situated in the heart of Helsinki surrounded by the institutions of a modern, liberal democracy: Parliament, free press, art and museums. I hope that Oodi will bring people and institutions together and generate a new kind of interaction and understanding.” Oodi is open weekdays from 8 am – 10 pm and on weekends from 10 am – 8 pm. ••• Discover Helsinki 79

A R CH I T EC TU R E T E X T BY M A R I T TA J O N E S Lapinlahti – Hidden history in Helsinki The Lapinlahti former psychiatric hospital stands poised on the edge of Lapinlahti Bay, a naturally beautiful site noted for its richness in biodiversity. Much like the rare butterfly (Depressaria Chaerophylli) that can be found in the area, its future is uncertain, but its history certainly deserves preservation. 80 Discover Helsinki

<<< The main building of Lapinlahti Hospital in the winter. MARITTA JONES / DISCOVER HELSINKI THE LAPINLAHTI ESTATE is comprised of several structures, of which the main building was designed by Carl Ludvig Engel, the architect responsible for many of the stately buildings occupying Helsinki’s historic centre. Of all his buildings it is the one that retains most of its original character, having been left mostly untouched. This, together with its historical significance, explains why the conservation of the building has become a topic of national interest. The building was completed in 1841, and until 2008 served as Finland’s (and one of Europe’s) oldest and longest functioning mental hospitals. The hospital was built at the initiative of the Grand Duke of Finland, and in many ways it was forward-thinking in the approach taken towards mental health. Not only was it the first hospital in Finland created singularly for psychiatric care, but the natural environment was taken into account when founding the hospital. This was based on the reasoning that it would play a beneficial role in the treatment of the patients, which in those days was quite unconventional. Dedicating such an expansive and well-cultivated site to the treatment of mental illness (which was still highly stigmatised at that time) was quite unusual. The Lapinlahti estate was significantly larger then, comprising much of what is the present-day suburb of Ruoholahti. Today, what remains is a smaller but still beautiful estate, its solemn buildings surrounded by the large city park. It is the second largest park in Helsinki, surpassed only in size by Kaivopuisto. Residents at the Lapinlahti hospital have included several note-worthy persons. Aleksis Kivi, who is considered to be the father of Finnish prose, was treated at the hospital in the last years of his life, which sadly seems to have caused far more harm than good. Celebrated composer Jean Sibelius, whose brother Christian was head doctor at Lapinlahti, also stayed there in hiding during the Finnish civil war. Lapinlahti hospital has survived through several wars, though it was not left untouched. There are visible marks on the red brick walls of the younger Venetsia building, created by the impact of bombs which were dropped during the Second World War. The Venetsia building earned its name from its position at the water’s edge, surrounded on three sides by the bay. After the psychiatric hospital was relocated to new facilities, the buildings at Lapinlahti fell into abandonment and until 2015 was occu- pied only by squatters, who left the interior of the Venetsia building in graffiti-scrawled dereliction. Salvaged from this sad condition the buildings now house a number of cultural and social activities. These efforts earned a nomination for the European Heritage Award, which is intended to recognise outstanding achievements in conservation and enhancement of European cultural heritage. This new sense of purpose can be attributed largely to the activities of the Lapinlahden Lähde, a citizens’ initiative which has championed the cause of making the former hospital a place for the development of social and cultural enterprise and for the benefit of the local community. The Mental museum is one such activity, and is dedicated to recalling the hospital’s history as a psychiatric facility. It is an eerily fascinating display, with photos of the children who once resided there, and artefacts such as a straightjacket hung conspicuously in one of the rooms, a vivid reminder of how far we have progressed in the treatment and understanding of illnesses of the mind. The museum is unique – an opportunity to experience an unpolished aspect of Finnish history in a nearly original setting and it is an experience which is certainly different to the norm. At present, the future of the hospital is uncertain, as the city wrangles with the delicate issue of finding the right path forward in light of the many challenges faced in the management and maintenance of the 178-year-old building. An idea competition is underway, out of which it is hoped that a suitable proposition for the use of the property will be found, the result of which is expected later this year. For now, there is much for visitors to see and enjoy. Guided walking tours are available for those wishing to learn more about its history and the evolution of mental healthcare in Finland. In addition to the mental museum, there are various shops and eating places. The oldest operational public sauna in Helsinki is also located there, which is quite fitting given that maintaining the former hospital area as a centre of wellbeing has been central to the efforts of its current tenants. It is open to the public from Tuesdays to Fridays, and private bookings can also be made. Without doubt, the invigorating effects of the sauna combined with the natural scenic beauty of Lapinlahti can do wonders for anyone’s sense of wellbeing. ••• Discover Helsinki 81

A RT T E XT BY S U SA N N A PE TT E RSON Art treasures of the city The history and present state of Finnish art can be studied intimately in the various art museums, galleries and special collections in and around Helsinki. The city has an active art life with over 150 museums and art galleries – more than enough for even the most avid art lover. A HUNDRED YEARS ago, Finland’s artistic life was utterly different. Helsinki had just one art museum, the Ateneum, which had opened to the public in 1888, and was solely charged with meeting all the city’s artistic needs. It took several decades before a wider range of art galleries and alternative exhibition spaces emerged, the first serious contender being the Helsinki Kunsthalle, which was inaugurated in 1928. A r t t a k e s ro o t Finnish art is comparatively young. Prior to the eighteenth century, Finland did not have a single fulltime professional artist. The first art school was only founded in 1846. Finnish art history has roots in religious work. From the Middle Ages, the church began to commission occasional works of art. Finland had no affluent élite to compare with that which provided employment to portraitists and other artists in Central Europe. The turning-point came in the early eighteenth century, when the fortress of Viapori was founded, leading to a large influx of Swedish officers to oversee the building works. Trade received a boost, enriching the local population, and there was an upsurge in the demand for portraits among the élite. Artists travelled all the way from Stockholm in search of work. Finnish art burgeoned forth in a variety of forms. 82 Discover Helsinki

Eero Järnefelt (1863-1937) Under the Yoke (Burning the Brushwood) 1893 Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum YEHIA EWEIS / FINNISH NATIONAL GALLERY Discover Helsinki 83

A RT Akseli Gallen-Kallela: The Giant Pike, 1904 Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum PIRJE MYKKÄNEN / FINNISH NATIONAL GALLERY AKSELI GALLEN-KALLELA Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865 – 1931) is one of Finland’s most esteemed artists. His early paintings depicted Finnish landscapes and its people, but he is perhaps best known for his paintings that portray the tales of the Finnish national epic, the Kalevala. Gallen-Kallela re-told the stories of Finland’s folklore powerfully through these paintings, and they are considered an important part of Finnish identity and culture. Akseli Gallen-Kallela: Kullervo Cursing, 1899 Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum JOUKO KÖNÖNEN / FINNISH NATIONAL GALLERY 84 Discover Helsinki

The educated pro-Finnish contingency had a growing appetite for works of art. From rococo to realism Profane (or secular) art, had its hesitant origin in Finland in the 18th century Isak Wacklin’s rococo portraits and in Nils Schillmark’s paintings, which employed the Neoclassical idiom. Elias Martin’s landscape paintings documenting the fortification of Viapori represent a unique curiosity from the same period. At the turn of the nineteenth century, Finnish artists absorbed influences from the Romantic movement, and began to produce soulful portraits as well as genre paintings that idealised nature. The most famous Romantic artists included Gustaf Wilhelm Finnberg, Alexander Lauréus and Robert Wilhelm Ekman. In 1809, when Finland was severed from Sweden and brought under Russian rule, the educated classes were divided into three groups: proSwedish, pro-Russian and pro-Finnish. Those who aligned themselves with the idea of a distinct Finnish nation wanted Finland to have its own history and identity reflected in its artwork. Painting was seen as an excellent means of serving these nationalistic ambitions. In the mid-nineteenth century, a handful of Finnish artists studied in Düsseldorf, and soon applied the lessons they had imbibed to the depiction of the ideal Finnish landscape. The most famous landscape painter of the Düsseldorf School in Finland was Werner Holmberg, whose career was cut short by tuberculosis. The Düsseldorf group also included a woman artist, Fanny Churberg, whose paintings evoked a mysterious country filled with harsh tracts of wilderness. The educated pro-Finnish contingency had a growing appetite for works of art. They now wanted historical paintings as well as idealised landscapes. It was decided that Albert Edelfelt, the most promising young artist studying at the Finnish Art Society’s drawing school, should be sent to Antwerp to study history painting. He duly painted a few historical subjects to satisfy his patrons, the most famous being Kuningatar Blanka (Queen Blanca, 1877), which is now in the Ateneum Art Museum. However, Edelfelt also felt drawn irresistibly to Paris, the centre of plein-air painting, where a colony of Nordic artists was forming. The so-called Parisian period began, and realism was launched in Finnish art. National fer vour and symbolism The adoption of the plein-air method drove Finnish artists out into the midst of the peasantry and into the natural landscape.. Artists, who usually had an upper-class background, began to make excursions into the “original Finland” that was supposed to lie in the forest wilderness of Karelia. Landscape painting and realistic depictions of ordinary folk led to the development of National Romanticism, a movement which also pervaded literature, music and architecture. The most determined and undiluted National Romanticist was Akseli Gallen-Kallela, whose life’s ambition was to illustrate the entire Kalevala, Finland’s national epic. By Finnish standards, Gallen-Kallela is something of a Renaissance artist, best known for his oil paintings and prints, but also a designer of stained-glass windows, furniture and textiles. He designed his own studio-home, as well as uniforms for the Finnish army, and a proposal for the Finnish flag. If the National Romantic movement focused on the soul of the people, Symbolism was preoccupied with the basic questions of human existence. Life and death were strongly present. Hugo Simberg gave death human embodiment, and his black-cloaked skeletons are among the best-loved figures in Finnish art. Magnus Enckell approached the central concerns of Symbolism through his ageless and universal studies of boys. However, there were also notable artists who worked outside the stylistic movements of their day. Helene Schjerfbeck deserves separate mention. Among the work she completed is a series of dozens selfportraits, which charts the course of her long life, from the self-assured face of youth to the elderly woman confronting death. Discover Helsinki 85

Lately the most prominent Finnish artists A RT have come from the field of video and photography. Colour, power and the break-up of form In the early twentieth century, all Finns had an opportunity to study art – at least in theory - as admission to the drawing school was free. There were fears that the artistic community, once equated with the bourgeoisie, would become proletarian, thereby endangering the Finnish national spirit. Young Finnish artists kept a close eye on international developments, and Impressionism, Expressionism and Cubism found northern echoes in Finnish studios. The new movements included Magnus Enckell’s colour painting school Septem, and the Expressionistic Novembrist Group led by Tyko Sallinen. Meanwhile, the Cubists were preoccupied with the idea and nature of form. After Finnish independence in 1917, the Surrealists began to put forward works which playfully subverted the laws of the visible world. In the years immediately after the Second World War, non-figurative art played a significant role in the construction of Finnish national identity. Finnish abstract art, industrial design and architecture helped to project an image of a modern nation that was looking to the future after the war. In the early 1960s, the non-figurative aesthetic was challenged by anartistic movement was called Informalism. Jaakko Sievänen, among others, filled his canvases with powerful, freely-formed planes of flaming colour. Instead of traditional oil paint, the artist might use thick plaster, rags and sacking, as seen in the paintings of Ahti Lavonen, or cloths and scraps of paper, as in Anitra Lucander’s collages. Sculptors such as Eila Hiltunen made welded metal constructions, while Kain Tapper worked in wood and Ukri Merikanto used stone. The 1980s were dominated by ideas of the modern, postmodernism, and feminism, with strong painters like Marika Mäkelä, Marjatta Tapiola, and Leena Luostarinen. In the 1990s, increasing emphasis was laid on the relationship between the self and the surrounding society, crossover between the arts, and various technical concerns. Interest in the surrounding society brought art to the street level, tackling social questions like multiculturalism or poverty, as in the experimental works of Minna Heikinaho. Lately the most prominent Finnish artists have come from the field of video and photography. Filmmaker and video artist Eija-Liisa Ahtila’s triumphant career has focused the art world’s interest on the work of the younger generation. Other rising stars include visual artists like Salla Tykkä, Laura Horelli, Liisa Lounila, Elina Brotherus, installation artist Tea Mäkipää and sculptor Lotta Mattila. For these talented Finnish women, the entire world is their home. Their motivation comes from various sources and the issue of nationalism in art is no longer considered relevant. Now, it is all about their art and nothing more. ••• 86 Discover Helsinki

S E LECT I ON OF POPU L A R M U S E U MS AMOS REX HAM, HELSINKI ART MUSEUM HELSINKI CITY MUSEUM The re-invented Amos Rex museum is a meeting The Helsinki Art Museum, HAM, looks after an art At Helsinki City Museum, visitors are whisked off on a place for art and urban culture, located in the centre collection that belongs to the people of Helsinki, which journey to discover Helsinki’s past. Entry to the museum of Helsinki. includes over 9,000 works of art. HAM also houses an is always free. exhibition of Tove Jansson’s art. Mannerheimintie 22-24, 00100 Helsinki Aleksanterinkatu 16, 00170 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 684 4460, museum@amosrex.fi Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 8, (Tennis Palace) Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 3103 6630 Open: Mon 11 am – 6 pm; Wed & Thu 11 am – 8pm; Tel. +358 (0)9 310 1051 Open: Mon – Fri 11 am – 7 pm; Sat – Sun 11 am –5 pm. Fri 11 am – 6 pm; Sat & Sun 11am – 5 pm; Tue closed. Open: Tue – Sun 11 am –7 pm, Mon closed www.helsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi Admission: General 18€; reduced price 12€; Admission: Regular 12€; reduced 10€. Children under students and under 30: 5€; under 18: free entry. 18 free entry. MUSEUM OF TECHNOLOGY www.amosrex.fi www.hamhelsinki.fi Follow the progression of Finnish technology and ATENEUM ART MUSEUM MANNERHEIM MUSEUM The Ateneum Art Museum is one of three museums A museum depicting the life of Baron Gustaf past to its high-tech present. The museum is located forming the Finnish National Gallery and has the Mannerheim, Marshal of Finland (1867–1951). next to the scenic Vantaa river, in buildings which once largest art collection of classical art in Finland. Mannerheim’s home has been preserved almost housed the first waterworks in Finland. industry at this one-of-a-kind museum. The collection includes technology that spans from Finland’s agrarian in its original state. Kaivokatu 2, 00100 Helsinki Viikintie 1, 00560 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)294 500 401, ainfo@ateneum.fi Kalliolinnantie 14, (Kaivopuisto) Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 7288 440 Open: Tue & Fri 10 am – 6 pm; Wed & Thu Tel. +358 (0)9 635 443, info@mannerheim-museo.fi Open: Tue – Wed, 9 am to 5 pm; Thur 9 am to 7 pm; 10 am – 8 pm; Sat & Sun 10 am – 5 pm; Mon closed Open: Fri – Sun 11 am – 4 pm; other times by prior Sat – Sun, 11 am to 5 pm. Admission: Normal 17€; discount 15€; children arrangement. Admission: Adults 8€, concession 5€, under 18 free entry. Admission: Adults 12 €; children under 12 free entry; children ages 7 – 17: 2€, children 6 and under free. www.ateneum.fi pensioners, students and groups of over Free entry on Thursdays. 10 persons 10 € per person. www.tekniikanmuseo.fi DESIGN MUSEUM www.mannerheim-museo.fi Founded in 1873 as The Museum of Applied Arts, the Design Museum is now an internationally recognised museum that specialises in Finnish design. MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART KIASMA SUOMENLINNA MUSEUM The 18th-century fortress at Suomenlinna island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. Part of the Finnish National Gallery, Kiasma aims to make The main museum is open throughout the year and Korkeavuorenkatu 23, 00130 Helsinki contemporary art accessible to all. Experience thought- features a permanent exhibition about its history. Tel. +358 (0)9 622 0540 provoking exhibitions at one of the Nordic region’s Open: (Wintertime) 1. 9 – 31.5: Tue 11 am – 8 pm; leading museums of contemporary art. Wed – Sun 11am – 6pm; Mon closed. The museum is located at the Suomenlinna centre, Suomenlinna C74, 00190 Helsinki. (Summertime) 1.6 – 31.8: open daily 11 am – 6 pm. Mannerheiminaukio 2, 00100 Helsinki Open: Summer season (May 2 – September 30) Admission: Adults 12€; pensioners 10€; Tel. +358 (0)294 500 501, info@kiasma.fi 10 am – 6 pm. students 6 €; children for free. Open: Tue 10 am – 6 pm; Wed – Fri 10 am – 8:30 pm; Winter season (October 1 – April 30) Museum card, Design evenings: free entry on the last Sat 10 am to 6 pm; Sun 10 am – 5 pm; Mon closed. 10:30 am – 4:30 pm. Tuesday of every month during the winter period, Admission: Adults 15€; reduced 13€; children under Admission: Adults 8€, students/retirees 5€, from 5pm to 8pm. 18 free entry. Free entry on 1st Friday of the month. children 7 – 17: 4€, children under 7 free entry. www.designmuseum.fi www.kiasma.fi www.suomenlinna.fi/en 88 Discover Helsinki

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Popular with adults and children alike, the museum features impressive collections of taxidermied animals, dinosaur bones and dioramas of Finnish nature and nature from around the world from biological and historical perspectives. Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 13, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 294 1911 Open: Wintertime (1.9 – 31.5): Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am to 4 pm; Thur 9 am to 6pm; Sat 10 am to 5 pm; Sun 10 am to 4pm; Mon closed. Inspiration - Insight - Innovation Summertime (1.6 – 31.8): Tue-Wed, Fri-Sun 10 am to 5 pm; Thur 10 am to 6 pm; Mon closed. Admission: Adults 15€, children (7–17) 7€. www.luomus.fi/en/natural-history-museum SINEBRYCHOFF ART MUSEUM Finland’s most significant collection of paintings by old foreign Viikintie 1, 00560 Helsinki I +358 (0)9 7288 440 lipunmyynti@tekniikanmuseo.fi I www.tekniikanmuseo.fi masters and an interior museum. The museum is a part of the Finnish National Gallery. Bulevardi 40, 00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)294 500 460 Mannerheim Museum Open: Tue, Thur, Fri 10 am – 6 pm; Wed 11 am – 8 pm; Sat – Sun 10 am – 5 pm; Mon closed. Admission: Normal 15€; reduced 13€, children under 18 free entry. Free admission on the first Wednesday of the month at 5–8 pm. www.sinebrychoffintaidemuseo.fi WEE GEE EXHIBITION CENTRE The Wee Gee Exhibition Centre in Espoo houses four different museums – the Espoo Museum of Modern Art (EMMA), The Finnish Toy Museum Hevosenkenkä, the Finnish Museum of Horology and the Espoo City Museum KAMU. The former home of Baron G. Mannerheim, Marshal of Finland (1867-1951). Objects related to his life and the history of Finland. Ahertajantie 5, Tapiola, 02100 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)9 816 31818, weegee.info@espoo.fi Open: Tue, Thu 11 am – 5 pm; Wed, Fri 11 am – 7 pm; Open: Friday, Saturday and Sunday 11 am–4 pm and by appointment. Sat – Sun 11 am – 5 pm; Mon closed Admission: Adults 12€; concession 10€; Free for under 18s and over 70; free admission on Fridays 5 pm – 7 pm. www.weegee.fi Kalliolinnantie 14, 00140 Helsinki tel: +358-9-635443, info@mannerheim-museo.fi www.mannerheim-museo.fi

Welcome to discover fine art, design and architecture! i la Добро пожаловать в мир современного искусства, высококлассного дизайна и архитектуры! m ne n om la T : El o t o h P iK : Ar Photo t art u Photo: Ari Karttunen AHERTAJANTIE 5, ESPOO, FINLAND +358 (0)9 816 31818 WEEGEE.INFO@ESPOO.FI WWW.WEEGEE.FI

THE RE ARE N UME ROUS ART MUSEUMS AND GALLE RIES I N HELSI NKI WH ICH SPECIALISE I N DIFFE RENT AREAS, FROM OLD ART TO CONTEMPORARY WORK AMA Gallery Rikhardinkatu 1 www.ama.fi Gallery G Pieni Roobertinkatu 10 www.taidegraafikot.fi Kirpilä Art Collection Pohjoinen Hesperiankatu 7, 6th floor www.taidekotikirpila.fi Collection Lauri and Lasse Reitz Apollonkatu 23 B 64 www.reitz.fi Gallery Heino Uudenmaankatu 16–20 www.galleriaheino.fi Kunsthalle Helsinki Nervanderinkatu 3 www.taidehalli.fi Collection Päivikki and Sakari Sohlberg Kauppiaankatu 11 A 7, (by appointment only) www.pss-saatio.fi Gallery Huuto Tyynenmerenkatu 6, Uudenmaankatu 35 www.galleriahuuto.net Make Your Mark Garage / Gallery Kaasutehtaankatu 1 (building 6) www.makeyourmark.fi Didrichsen Art Museum Kuusilahdenkuja 1 www.didrichsenmuseum.fi/eng/ Gallery Kajaste Bulevardi 32 / Albertinkatu 30 www.galleriakajaste.fi MUU Kaapeli Tallberginkatu 1 C 97 www.kaapelingalleria.fi www.muu.fi Finnish Aviation Museum Karhumäentie 12, Vantaa www.ilmailumuseo.fi Helsinki Contemporary Bulevardi 10 www.helsinkicontemporary.com Forum Box Ruoholahdenranta 3 A www.forumbox.fi Gallery Laterna Magica Rauhankatu 7 www.laterna.net Galleria Bronda Annankatu 16 www.bronda.fi Gallery Katariina Kalevankatu 16 www.helsingintaiteilijaseura.fi Galleria Dix Uudenmaankatu 19 www.galleriadix.fi Gallery Luova.fi Suvilahdenkatu 10 A, 5th floor www.luova.fi Galerie Anhava Fredrikinkatu 43 www.anhava.com Gallery Sculptor Eteläranta 12 www.sculptors.fi Gallery Alkovi Helsinginkatu 19 www.alkovi.linnake.net Gallery Sinne Iso Roobertinkatu 16 www.sinne.proartibus.fi Gallery Forsblom Lönnrotinkatu 5 / Yrjönkatu 22 www.galerieforsblom.com Glass Gallery Mafka&Alakoski Iso Roobertinkatu 19 www.mafka.fi www.karialakoski.com Photographic Gallery Hippolyte Yrjönkatu 8–10 www.hippolyte.fi The Finnish Museum of Photography Tallberginkatu I G www.valokuvataiteenmuseo.fi The Gallen-Kallela Museum Gallen-Kallelan tie 27, Espoo www.gallen-kallela.fi The National Museum of Finland Mannerheimintie 34 www.kansallismuseo.fi Tm Galleria / Finnish Painter’s Union Erottajankatu 9 B www.painters.fi Villa Gyllenberg Kuusisaarenpolku 11 www.villagyllenberg.fi Discover Helsinki 91

MU S IC T E XT BY AU LI RÄSÄN E N Edited by Maritta Jones Reason to make a song and dance For a city of only half a million inhabitants, Helsinki enjoys a remarkably rich mix of cultural fare, offering the sort of variety available in larger European or North American metropolises.  Tip! Helsinki Festival, the largest arts festival in Finland, aims at making art accessible to all. 92 Discover Helsinki IN HELSINKI, theatre and opera productions are well attended. The most popular shows are often sold out for months in advance, and for good reason. The standard of local productions is exceptionally high and in many ways Helsinki can be described as an important cultural meeting-point. Positioned between East and West, Finnish culture has been influenced by Russia and continental Europe, but has developed and maintained a distinctive Finnish identity all its own. Not surprisingly, its cultural fare is mostly concentrated in indoor venues during the cold, dark winter months. When the sunshine and warm temperatures return, events head out of doors, although ironically many of the locals disappear at this time of year as they make for their summer cottages or take off abroad for the holidays. Summer time delights Helsinki buzzes with activity during the summer months. The Helsinki Festival, which is the largest festival in Finland, takes place this year from August 15th to September 1st, 2019. The warm, dusky evenings of late summer are perfect for enjoying the festival at its locations throughout Helsinki, when the seaside town is filled with traditional Scandinavian-style crayfish parties and yacht regattas.

The Helsinki Festival is the largest cultural event in Finland and showcases performances from local and international artists in a variety of genres. JULIA KIVELÄ / VISIT FINLAND

MU S IC The Music Centre has excellent acoustic solutions designed by a top Japanese designer. The two-week festival, with its concerts, dance and theatre productions, and art shows, is dotted throughout the entire city. The festival kicks off with the immensely popular “Art Goes Kapakka” (kapakka = pub), in which artists strut their stuff in downtown restaurants and watering-holes. Having brightened Helsinki’s August nights since 1995, the festival continues to delight its audience through its multisensory art experience. The Helsinki Chamber Music Festival’s third iteration happens from July 3rd to the 6th, 2019. This relative newcomer to the Helsinki festival scene brings classical music to the heart of the city, with three days of high quality concerts set in the idyllic surroundings of Helsinki’s Senate Square and the historic city centre. URB (Urban Art Festival) celebrates urban art and culture, leaning strongly towards street arts and dance. For one week in June (7 – 14.6.2019) a series of shows and concerts, seminars and workshops highlight the dynamic effect that urban and youth culture has on contemporary art. It is a production of Kiasma Theatre, which is part of the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art. Just outside of the city proper is the fortress island of Suomenlinna that (besides its significance as a UNESCO World Heritage Site) also serves tourists and Helsinki locals with theatre productions, concerts, exhibitions, and restaurant soirées. Jazz enthusiasts should take note of the annual Viapori Jazz Festival at Suomenlinna which happens on August 20 – 24, 2019. Opera for a song Comprised of a 110-member orchestra and an 80-strong ballet company, the Finnish National Opera and Ballet presents a wide range of classic operas, blockbuster musicals, concerts and ballet performances. The National Ballet is a high-class ensemble, and its repertoire provides a mix of classical and contemporary works. The opera and ballet season runs from August to June, with presentations that cater to various age groups. Having shrugged off its elitist label, opera in Finland is widely appreciated, with around 30 new local operas having been produced within the last three decades. Music for the masses On leaving the Opera House, if you continue along the main thoroughfare Mannerheimintie in the direction of the city centre, you will come across Finlandia Hall. This large, white marble-clad edifice is a concert and congress hall, with 1,700 seats in the main auditorium. The concert wing was designed in 1971 by Alvar Aalto, one of Finland’s most distinguished architects. While Aalto was indisputably a great architect, he paid scant heed to his acoustic experts and as a result the large auditorium is not overly popular with local orchestras, due to its somewhat dry sound. Nevertheless, the building is worth the visit, as it is an iconic example of the modernist architecture for which Aalto is famous. 94 Discover Helsinki

Embrace beauty. SEE OUR REPERTOIRE AND PURCHASE OPERA AND BALLET TICKETS: oopperabaletti.fi/en Discover Helsinki 95

96 Discover Helsinki

Aalto was also responsible for the red-brick Kulttuuritalo (Cultural Hall) that was built originally for the Finnish Communist Party in 1958. Here the acoustics are a great deal more satisfactory, though the building is slightly smaller with seating for just under 1,400. In any event, both of these venues now have a serious rival in the Helsinki Music Centre which opened in 2011. Primely located opposite the Parliament Building, the Music Centre possesses excellent acoustics, designed by a top Japanese designer. Open year round, it hosts between 70 to 100 concerts and events every month between September and May. The Music Centre houses both of the city’s big resident symphony orchestras – the Helsinki Philharmonic and the Finnish Radio Symphony – and the country’s music university, the Sibelius Academy of the University of the Arts. Cosy and contemporary venues The atmospheric Alexander Theatre on Bulevardi 23–27 was the home of the Finnish National Opera from 1917 until 1993. The Alexander Theatre is a former Russian garrison theatre with a fairly small 473- seat auditorium. It is also a busy dance centre, providing a platform for many of Finland’s top contemporary dance troupes, including the Tero Saarinen Company and Nomadi Productions. The stage is also as a venue for small operatic groups like the Finnish Chamber Opera. The Zodiak Center for New Dance is a contemporary dance community that has taken up residence in Kaapelitehdas (which means “Cable Factory”, the building’s original usage), a large cultural center located in the suburb of Ruoholahti. Zodiak produces the work of progressive young choreographers and more than a dozen independent dance groups. The Savoy Theatre, just off the Esplanade and not far from the Market Square, has developed into a popular stage for ethnic music and dance productions. The cosy Savoy is also popular with small-scale modern circus troupes and drama companies. Helsinki’s most popular concert church is Temppeliaukio Church. Completed in 1969, it is often referred to as “The Church in the Rock”, since it was built directly in a granite outcrop. It is covered with a 25-metre circular copper dome and steel-framed skylight windows. ••• URBAN FESTIVALS IN HELSINKI Although a large number of Finnish music festivals take place Sideways (June 6 – 8) is a newish 3-day festival with a wide variety of outside the capital, there are still some interesting festivals in the cool music, street food and entertaining sideshows. It takes place in central Helsinki area. central Helsinki in an area called Nordis next to the Ice Hall. >> www.sidewaysfestival.fi Flow Festival, the hippest festival in Finland, takes place on August 9 – 11, 2019, in the historic power plant area of Suvilahti in central The World Village festival brings music, dance and theatre to Helsinki. In the past few years the event has pulled record crowds, Kaisaniemi, Helsinki, May 25 – 26. The free event is open to all and with around 75,000 eager party-goers. The line-up this year includes promises to offer world views and possibilities on top of the various Erykah Badu, Robyn and The Cure. music genres, art and circus performances. >> www.flowfestival.com/en >> www.maailmakylassa.fi/english/home In late June, you’ll see long-haired people wearing black In August the Helsinki Festival takes over town, with its exciting line-up everywhere. It’s time for the Tuska Open Air Metal Festival, of performances across genres. Experience classical and world music, the largest metal-related music festival in the Nordic countries theatre, visual arts, circus acts and more at the largest festival in taking place in Helsinki on June 28 – 30. Finland, from Aug 15 – Sep 1, 2019. >> www.tuska-festival.fi/en >> https://helsinkifestival.fi/en/ Discover Helsinki 97

S PO RT T E X T BY S A A R A K E K Ä L Ä I N E N & M A R I T TA J O N E S Get Sporty in Helsinki – Sporty daughter of the Baltic Helsinki has much to offer to the sports-loving visitor, from fun recreational activities to traditional spectator sports. Sports and athletics have always been important to Finns. Staying active is encouraged, and good health and well-being are highly valued in Finland, an approach that is surely a factor in Finland’s consistent top ranking as one of the happiest countries in the world. HAVING ALREADY earned a reputation for athletic excellence, Finland was ready to step onto the international sporting stage by hosting the Summer Olympic Games in 1940. Helsinki was prepared to host the Games after the original host Japan stepped aside, until the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939 led to the cancellation of the Games. It was not until 1952 that Helsinki finally hosted the Games, becoming the smallest city ever to have that honour. Venues for record-breaking Construction of several world-class facilities for the Games began in the 1930s, including the Olympic Stadium, the Rowing Stadium and Velodrome. With their elegantly simplistic construction and unadorned white exteriors, they exemplify the zeitgeist of the 30s and form an integral part of Helsinki’s architectural landscape. Notably, the buildings continue to serve the public to this day. The Olympic Stadium and its 72-metre Stadium Tower are a significant landmark in the city. After the completion of major renovations that are currently underway, it is expected that the Stadium will be the most modern and versatile facility in the city, serving as a multi-purpose venue for sports and entertainment. Located just north-east of the Olympic Stadium is the open-air Swimming Stadium. This was the first outdoor swimming complex in Finland and there are several separate swimming pools, including a 50-metre pool and a diving pool. It is open to the public from early May to mid-September. 98 Discover Helsinki

Helsinki’s many beaches and swimming pool facilities make for a fun way to get active during your visit, regardless of season. EETU AHANEN / HELSINKI MARKETING

Kullo Golf Club is located only about 30 minutes east from Helsinki. Kullo Golf offers enjoyable settings for golfers at any level of skills. The charming landscape of the golf course varies from hilly pinery to a manor environment surrounded by oak trees and to a beautiful view to the sea. The fairways are built on a wide area and are separated by forests. This brings a nice feeling of privacy to the game. The golf course ends at the manorlike golf club, which offers pleasant and spacious premises for both individual players and occasions arranged by companies. As a magnificent end for the golf round you can enjoy a tasty lunch or á la carte with beverages at the restaurant or it’s terrace with a beautiful view to the 12th and 18th fairways. GREEN FEES Weekdays 55€ Weekend 69€ (Prime time from 8:00 – 13:00) Weekend 55€ (Before 8:00 and after 13:00) Public holidays 69€ Paloheinä Golf is the most popular golf centre in Finland and is based on the principle of pay and play. It is located eight kilometres from the centre of Helsinki next to its Central Park. There is a full size nine hole golf course and a popular driving range. Paloheinä Golf is also well known for its golf school. Pay & Play - Big Nine at Paloheinä Golf The Big Nine is open daily from early morning until dusk. The green fee is 26 euros (18 holes 42 euros), juniors pay 16 euros (18 holes 22 euros). Please book your tee time with our caddiemaster, phone 010 292 7060 or via our website paloheinagolf.fi. The Best Driving Range in Finland Paloheinä´s driving range is the most popular in Finland. There are many interesting targets (painted on the artificial greens) on the range. You can hire a big bucket of balls (112) for only 5 euros. We hire clubs to you for your range practice and lend them free for under 22 years old. Popular Training Courses Paloheinä Golf organizes popular Green Card courses for beginners twice a week. You can choose either three weekday evenings (Monday and Tuesday 17.30-21.30) or two weekend mornings (Saturday and Sunday 9-13). The price of the training course is 169 euros including equipment and the Green Card which gives you the right to play at all the golf courses in Finland. Our teachers speak Finnish, Swedish and English. KULLOO GOLF CLUB Golftie 119, 06830 Kulloonkylä, Tel. +358 19 522 0451 Email: caddiemaster@kullogolf.fi www.kullogolf.fi 100 Discover Helsinki PALOHEINÄ GOLF Kuusmiehentie 13, 00670 Helsinki, Tel. 010 292 7060 Buses 66 and 67 from Helsinki Railway Station www.paloheinagolf.fi

Just a five-minute walk from the Stadium is the Eläintarha Sports Field, which is now a popular training ground for track and field athletes. Here, in June 1924, a small piece of running history was made, when Paavo Nurmi, the greatest Olympian of the time, calmly broke the world records for the 1500 metres and the 5000 metres, in the space of the same hour. He set a total of 29 world records in his career. Icemen and oth er stars Nearby is the Helsinki Ice Hall, which is the oldest ice hall in Helsinki, and around 2 kilometres away from that is the even larger Hartwall Areena; these are home to the largest ice hockey clubs in Finland, HIFK and Jokerit respectively. Ice hockey is Finland’s most popular spectator sport, and many Finns actively participate in the sport, often starting from an early age. Finnish ice hockey talent is recognised internationally, and successes on the international stage include the 2019 IIHF World Championship, which was Finland’s third time winning the tournament. Many local stars play for teams in the NHL, the best-known being Saku Koivu and Teemu Selänne who have both recently retired. Look out for rising stars in the under 20 group – Finland has also won the IIHF Junior World Championships in 2014, 2016 and 2019. Finnish winters are long, so it should come as no surprise that Finland can boast of stars in other winter sports such as snowboarding, having World Championship winners and medallists Antti Autti and Markku Koski, and Olympic medallists Enni Rukajärvi and Peetu Piiroinen. Finland has also produced world-class talent in motor sports. Former Formula One champion Mika Häkkinen consistently ranks amongst the greatest F1 racers of all time and, nowadays, drivers Kimi Räikkönen (the ‘Iceman’) and Valtteri Bottas are household names. Summer is the prime season for water sports and there are many other options besides swimming. Stand-up paddle boarding is an increasingly popular activity and there are several spots along the shoreline of the city which are perfect for the sport. Canoeing and kayaking can also be enjoyed at Helsinki’s many sheltered bays, such as Töölönlahti Bay, which in the very heart of Helsinki - only a ten-minute walk from the central railway station. Helsinki is a green city, with at least a third of the city area consisting of parks and other green areas. The fashionable district of Kaivopuisto is home to the embassies of several nations and also boasts the largest park in the city. The road that winds around the edge of Kaivopuisto by the seafront is a favourite with rollerbladers and joggers in the summer. During the summer months, there are often free or inexpensive outdoor workouts in Kaivopuisto. Your Wellness hotel in Helsinki Go spor ting For visitors who don’t want to sit on the sidelines, Helsinki offers variety of ways of getting some exercise. In the summertime the Swimming Stadium mentioned earlier is a magnet for swimmers and sun-worshippers alike and pulls a large crowd on hot July days. In winter, there are several indoor swimming pools around the city. For more information about where you can go swimming in the city see page 66 (“Beach Life”). hotelhaaga.fi

S P O RT Wellness and Walking, the Finnish Way If you are into yoga, look out outdoor yoga events that frequently pop up at Kaivopuisto or other parks, once the weather is suitable. There is also the Helsinki Yoga Festival, which is held at the Cable Factory (Kaapelitehdas) in Ruoholahti and which is scheduled to take place on 29.2. to 1.3.2020. Wellness has long been a major facet of the Finnish lifestyle, even before it became trendy. There are many yoga and wellness studios in Helsinki, as well as hotels which provide spa and sauna wellness packages. Hiking and rambling in the woods is another great option, regardless of season Although Helsinki is the capital city, one does not have to travel far to find completely unspoilt areas, such as the Nuuksio National Park in neighbouring Espoo. You will also find the Finnish Nature Centre Haltia at Nuuksio, where you can experience Finland’s wide spectrum of nature, from the snowy hills of Lapland to its green, southern forests, all under one roof. Haltia partners with a number of expert guides who organise tours so that you can enjoy the very best of the national park; visit haltia.com for more information. Canoeing excursions and mushroom and berry-picking trips can also be booked through feethenature.fi. If you prefer to stay within the city, you could try Nordic walking, a sport developed in Finland. It is a type of fitness walking in which specially designed poles, similar to ski poles, are used for a full body workout. In the Töölönlähti area, you can find supervised Nordic walking sessions, as well as other free fitness classes and activities at Helsinki’s many outdoor fitness sites. To mention a few, there is an obstacle course at Kivikko, a pump track for biking at Roihuvuori and number of other track and field facilities. Visit hel.fi for more info. In the wintertime you can go ice-skating in the middle of the city, at the popular skating rink at Rautatientori next to the railway station or in Kallio, which is just a few tram stops away from the centre. Skiing in the city is also possible, as Helsinki boasts a year-round indoor skiing hall, Kivikon Hiihtohalli (Savikiekontie 4). Or, just a few kilometres away from the city centre, you can go cross-country skiing at Paloheinä. The area has several kilometres of skiing tracks and a ski rental shop. During summer, Paloheinä is a great option if you are into golf – there is a ninehole golf course and a driving range, together with a popular golf school where you can get personalised training. •••

Rejuvenate your body and mind at the Helsinki Day Spa, one of Finland’s largest and best-known beauty salons. With 16 treatment rooms, we offer a comprehensive range of facial and body treatments, including advanced skin-rejuvenation techniques and authentic Indian, classic and spa massages. Prepare to be pampered by our qualified beauticians and massage therapists, as you enjoy the spa’s stylish and historic setting in the heart of Helsinki. See our complete dayspa menu at www.dayspa.fi. Helsinki Day Spa, Erottajankatu 4, Helsinki, Tel. +358 9 685 0630 Opening hours: Monday to Tuesday: 12pm – 8pm, Wednesday to Friday: 9am – 8pm Saturday: 10am – 6pm, Sunday: closed


Hämeenkylä Manor is a unique manor hotel situated just 25 minutes away from Helsinki. Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy our beautiful surroundings, delicious food and excellent service. Relax in our beautifully decorated rooms and enjoy the tasty cuisine prepared by our renowned chefs. Come and enjoy! Juustenintie 1, FI-01630 Vantaa | www.hameenkylankartano.fi | Reservations: 08.30am–04.00pm on weekdays, tel. +358 10 540 7500, sales.hotels@sodexo.fi | Other times, tel. +358 10 540 8350, hameenkylankartano@sodexo.fi

DE S IG N T E X T BY J O H A N N A LU H TA L A Edited by Maritta Jones Finnish design Finnish design is known for clean lines, practicality and timeless minimalism, although young designers can be surprisingly playful. Helsinki was designated World Design Capital in 2012 in recognition of its use of design to build a better city for its inhabitants. THE STORY OF FINNISH DESIGN begins with the founding of the Finnish Society of Crafts and Design in 1875, a time when the not-yet independent nation was striving to define its own national identity and culture. At the forefront of this movement were multi-talented designers like artist Akseli Gallen-Kallela and architects Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren, and Eliel Saarinen, partners who designed the Helsinki railway station and the National Museum. They also designed Finland’s first national pavilion at the Paris Exposition in 1900, which earned widespread acclaim. The best of Finnish design was displayed at the fair and included furniture by Akseli Gallen-Kallela, along with his ryijy rug, entitled Flame, a pioneering work of Finnish textile design. The Iris ceramics factory exhibited wares made out of Finnish red-burning clay designed in the Art Nouveau style. When Finland became independent in 1917, Finland’s design evolution continued in full force, with designers shifting away from earlier Russian and Swedish influences and into a more distinctive Finnish style, which frequently utilised natural motifs reflecting the Finns’ close ties to nature. Enduring classics of Modernism The use of natural materials, unadorned surfaces, and bright primary colours characterised the work of the 1930s. Young architect Alvar Aalto was particularly responsive to the demands of functional design, creating light bentwood chairs, tables and shelves that have become enduring classics of Modernism. In 1935, the Artek Company was set up in Helsinki, to produce and disseminate Aalto’s furniture, which had become popular abroad. The company is still going strong today, and the Artek collection now includes products by other designers as well. 106 Discover Helsinki

Finnish shoe designer Minna Parikka is known for her playful and fun contemporary designs in vibrant colours. JUSSI RATILAINEN / VISIT FINLAND Together with his wife Aino, Alvar Aalto was also an important glass designer. In 1932 Aino Aalto designed her Aalto glassware series, and in 1936 Alvar Aalto created his Savoy vase, by far the best-known example of Finnish design internationally. Another modern classic by Alvar Aalto is the Artek Stool 60, a three-legged stool that has been copied endlessly. The heyday of ar t glass Handicraft skills and traditional materials became important during and immediately after the Second World War, when there was a shortage of materials. Among the central figures of the 1940s were the interior designer Ilmari Tapiovaara and the glass designer Gunnel Nyman. Tapiovaara was a pioneer in the field of ergonomic seating design. A well-known example is his Domus chair from 1947. During her short career, Gunnel Nyman (1909–1948) designed a series of art objects of glass that augured the heyday of art glass in the 1950s. With the resurgence of industrial production in the 1950s, design suddenly took on a central role in Finnish cultural life. Glass design, particularly art glass, rose to prominence. Tapio Wirkkala, Timo Sarpaneva, Nanny Still, Saara Hopea and Kaj Franck designed high-quality glassware in a streamlined modern idiom. The textile industry recovered and responded to the strong post war demand for fabrics. Traditional ryijy rugs were designed in increasingly rich colours, and absorbed influence from abstract painting. Major expositions such as the Milan Triennial gave Finnish design a place in the international limelight. Finland garnered several major prizes at that time, and the victorious designers were lionised like Olympic champions in the press. Finnish glass art continues to thrive, and a new phenomenon is the emergence of a number of glass hot shops, at which you can see the glass artists at work. At Glass Gallery Mafka & Alakoski, you can find fresh and contemporary Finnish glass art designs in the city centre. Discover Helsinki 107

DE S IG N P l a s t i c , f i b re g l a s s a n d t e x t i l e s Yo u n g f a s h i o n d e s i g n e r s The 1960s saw increased prominence worldwide for Finnish design. The designs of textile and clothing company Marimekko was placed in the spotlight when Jackie Kennedy wore several of their designs during the 1960 US presidential campaign. Marimekko, which was founded in 1951 by Armi Ratia, became popular for their vibrant printed fabrics, jolly Tasaraita jersey cloths, and liberal ideals. The 1960s also saw a strong backlash against the cult of the individual designer. Suddenly, the design trend was to produce anonymous, universal objects instead of exclusive art objects. New synthetic materials such as plastic and fibreglass posed novel challenges and facilitated, for instance, wider and faster furniture production. Eero Aarnio’s eyecatching fibreglass chairs, Pallo and Pastilli, illustrated the possibilities offered by the new materials. Even now well into his 80s, Eero Aarnio is still actively creating new designs, including lamps and a children’s collection. The orange scissors by Fiskars are another Finnish design classic that was born in the 1960’s. The ergonomic scissors are now sold all over the world. They are a great example of Finnish functional design. The scissors have registered sales of more than one billion. The dreams of the 1960’s were shattered by the 1973 oil crisis. Henceforth, increasing emphasis was placed on the constructive social role of designers. Handicraft collectives and ceramic workshops were set up in empty schools and factories. Meanwhile, the profile of industrial design was raised by a generation of newly graduated designers specially trained in the field. Iconic design house Marimekko continues to put on its annual fashion show every May in Helsinki. Maija Louekari is one of the company’s top designers, with joyful, colourful textile prints and tableware designs. Designer Satu Maaranen also began her career at Marimekko, and her work has been featured in Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and other leading international publications. In the fashion business, the retro-boom brought several young designers to the fore. Paola Suhonen designs for her IVANA Helsinki label, which was the first Nordic fashion house to have its own show at the Paris Fashion Week, and Suhonen was the first Finnish designer to feature at the New York Fashion Week in 2010. Paola Suhonen has also done print and concept designing for various companies like Google, Canon, HP Sauce, Swarovski and Coca Cola. There are several upcoming Finnish designers, such as menswear designer Rolf Ekroth, whose work was featured at the prestigious Pitti Uomo fair in 2019. Fashion designer Laura Juslin and architect Lilli Maunula have collaborated to create the clothing and accessory company Juslin Maunula. Their work is distinguished by the use of uncon- Postmodernism and recycling The 1980s saw the breakthrough of international postmodernism in Finland and elsewhere. All the styles and movements of the twentieth century were freely reworked and juxtaposed, resulting in superficial, sensationalist design, but also in joyful and daring new departures. Several young designers were discovered in the late 1980s. The versatile Stefan Lindfors in particular has won wide acclaim. Two trends may be discerned in the design of the 1980’s and 1990s: experimental art handicraft which is moving closer to the visual arts, and design that utilises recycled materials and information technology, often in a commercial vein. In the 1990’s data communications technology, and especially mobile phones comprised an important part of the industrial production of Finland. Nokia’s mobile phones have, as never before, exported Finnish know-how around the world. 108 Discover Helsinki HERNÉ & VILMURI are based on ecological and ethical values sustainability carries through in all our design processes. Turbans, earrings and hand-printed tights are here to complete your unique look! SHOP Rauhankatu 7 Helsinki www.herne.fi www.vilmuri.com

DE S IG N ventional materials and a cross-disciplinary approach to design. Juslin Maunula has found fans internationally, including international superstar Lady Gaga who wore one of their designs in October 2016. New classics In the field of furniture design, new models have begun to be produced by young designers,, such as Sari Anttonen’s Kiss-chair for Piiroinen and Samuli Naamanka’s Clash-chair for Martela. The multi-talented Harri Koskinen has designed a wide range of products including tableware, furniture, lighting, watches, and textiles. He earned international renown in 1996 with the Block lamp which has become a modern design classic, now part of MoMa’s collection. His clients include Alessi, MUJI, Swarowski and Issey Miyake. fashion brand and Issey Miyake’s A-Poc, and has worked for brands like Adidas, Microsoft, Diesel and Lacoste. Designer Lotta Nieminen was selected by Forbes on the “30 under 30” list of young talents. Her clients include Hermès, The New York Times, Volkswagen, Google and Newsweek. Artist and designer Klaus Haapaniemi has been busy for the past few years. Best known for his dishware collections Taika (Magic) and Satumetsä (Storytale forest) for Iittala, he also has designed garment prints and furniture, worked in fashion and books, and planned exhibitions and events such as the pop-up restaurant Hel Yes. Haapaniemi has also designed the visual concept for the opera ‘The Cunning Little Vixen’. ••• Folklore and magic The past few years have seen the rise of Finnish illustrators. The hottest names now include Sanna Annukka, whose colourful work uses Finnish folkloristic themes. You may have seen her work in products by Marimekko, Mark & Spencer’s and Vogue. The Amsterdam-based Kustaa Saksi has designed illustrations for Jennifer Lopez’s Justsweet READY FOR FINNISH DESIGN? A good starting-point to see Finnish design is the Design Museum (Korkeavuorenkatu 23), one of the earliest in its field in Europe. The museum has a collection of Finnish and foreign design, including fashion, industrial design and graphic design. See www.designmuseum.fi for Contemporary Scandinavian design presented to you by formverk more information. The annual Helsinki Design Week (September 5–15, 2019) is the largest design festival in the Nordic countries. The multidisciplinary festival presents design from a number of fields. Design X Finland (Unioninkatu 27) is devoted to the best of Finnish design. They sell an excellent selection of smaller Finnish design brands. Lokal (Annankatu 9) is a concept store that showcases the works of Finnish artists and designers. The shop places strong importance on the timeless value of handmade items. For a more intensive introduction to design, join a guided tour to the Design District. See www.designtourshelsinki.com for more information. Formverk - Annankatu 5 - Annankatu 23 - Helsinki - www.formverk.com

Stool 60, Alvar Aalto, 1933 ColoRing, Jo Nagasaka, 2019

S HOPPI NG T E XT BY H E LI-M A R IA W I I K Edited by Saara Kekäläinen Shop ‘til you drop in Helsinki Shopping in the centre of Helsinki is a pleasant experience, since the department stores and small design boutiques are all located within convenient walking distance. The best-stocked shopping streets in the downtown area are Mannerheimintie, Aleksanterinkatu, Kaisaniemenkatu, Iso Roobertinkatu, the two Esplanades (Pohjoisesplanadi and Eteläesplanadi, divided by the park), Bulevardi, and Fredrikinkatu. Opening Hours Department stores, many chain stores and the large supermarkets are normally open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturdays, and from 11 a.m. or noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Depar tment stores The department stores in the heart of the downtown area are Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52 B, on the corner of Mannerheimintie, and with access from Keskuskatu and Pohjoisesplanadi), Sokos (Mannerheimintie 9), and Aleksi13 (Aleksanterinkatu 13). If your time for shopping is restricted, then Stockmann and its immediate environs on Aleksanterinkatu and Mannerheimintie is a sensible choice. The imposing edifice of the Stockmann store contains within its several floors a comprehensive selection of Finnish fashion and design articles. Located within the cosmetics department on the ground floor is the flagship outlet for the renowned Finnish cosmetics manufacturer Lumene. The store also has an extensive array of products by Finnish brand names such as Fiskars, Iittala and Arabia, and souvenirs from Finland can be found in abundance. Stockmann’s basement contains the Herkku Food Market 112 Discover Helsinki

82 From big brands and local designers to vintage and pre-loved shopping, Helsinki’s vibrant shopping scene offers something for everyone. HARRI TARVAINEN / VISIT FINLAND Discover Helsinki 113

S HOPPI NG and delicatessen, with an assortment that will satisfy the needs of even the most demanding culinary aficionado. Renowned for high quality, jeweller’s Esko Lindroos Oy serves customers on the seventh floor of Stockmann. The extensive selection includes jewellery and diamonds of the highest quality, watches, and Finnish and international top brands. Next door to Stockmann on the other side of Keskuskatu is Academic Bookstore (Akateeminen Kirjakauppa), located in a building designed by the celebrated architect Alvar Aalto. The bookstore is one of Europe’s largest, and has Helsinki’s most comprehensive assortment of foreign-language literature and a large press section. An underground passageway links the two establishments, or you can just step across the street. Shopping centres Should you want to shop and spend some time indoors, then the 150 outlets of the Kamppi Center (Urho Kekkosenkatu 1) offer a perfect opportunity under one roof. If you are looking for fashion, designer brands, sportswear and sports equipment, or products for teens and young adults, they can all conveniently be found here. Forum (Mannerheimintie 20) is a modern classic. It offers shoppers several floors of stores, cafés, and restaurants. Forum has an exceptional selection of jewellery, fashion and children’s clothing stores. Stylish shoppers might well want to browse the Finnish fashion store Marimekko, while Moomin fans should check out the Moomin Shop for products based on author Tove Jansson’s endearing characters. Forum has recently been recognized both as the Best Shopping Centre in the Nordic countries and as Finland’s Best Shopping Centre by the Nordic Council of Shopping Centres. Thanks to a successful renovation, Forum is now bigger, brighter and better than ever – with more fashion, leisure and dining options for shoppers. Kämp Galleria (Pohjoisesplanadi 33) is located below the luxurious Kämp Hotel, with entrances from the four surrounding streets. It is home to a fine selection of Nordic design. Garden, the second floor of the Kämp Galleria shopping centre, is dedicated to Finnish fashion and houses The Terhi Pölkki Flagship Store selling high-quality shoes, and TRE <3 Nide, a stylish store offering books, fresh flowers and Klaus Haapaniemi interior design objects. Kluuvi Shopping Centre (Aleksanterinkatu 9) has about 35 businesses, including several sports stores. The shopping centre offers a mix of interesting international brand stores, Finnish retail concepts and restaurants. Outside the centre of town, there are a number of large entertainment and shopping complexes reachable by public transportation, such as Itis (the largest shopping centre in the Nordic region, located on the Helsinki Metro in the eastern suburbs), Sello (in Espoo, by the Leppävaara rail station), Iso Omena (Matinkylä in Espoo), the newly extended Jumbo (in Vantaa, close to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport) and the newish Kaari (Kannelmäki in western Helsinki). The malls in the Helsinki area, as in anywhere in the world, are their own shopping microworlds. They are mainly occupied by the big chain stores. REDI is a large new shopping centre just a couple of metro stops away from the city centre in the trendy and urban Kalasatama area. One of the special features is a park-like rooftop garden for art exhibitions, easy walks or just gazing at the view over the city and sea. Opening in 2019, Mall of Tripla is an urban centre that offers everything from the hottest Finnish and international brands to food halls and entertainment services. 114 Discover Helsinki

DOWNTOWN SHOPPING Do you love fashion, food and urban life? We have a Forum for you. Forum is a genuine and original local shopping centre in the downtown of Helsinki. Over 140 shops and services, domestic and international brands and a variety of cafés and restaurants. INTERNATIONAL BRANDS: FINNISH BRANDS: H&M, Mango, Victoria’s Secret, Timberland, Vans Finlayson, Marimekko, Moomin Shop, Pentik, Reima RESTAURANTS AND CAFES: SCANDINAVIAN FASHION: Bik Bok, Björn Borg, Carlings, Change Lingerie, Cubus, Dinsko, Gina Tricot, Glitter, KappAhl, Jack & Jones, Monki, Nilson Shoes, Scandinavian Outdoor, Vagabond, Vero Moda, Vila Classic Pizza, Espresso House, Fazer Café, Fuku, Hanko Sushi, Kaarna Bar & Kitchen, Suburritos Fresh Mexican Kitchen MANNERHEIMINTIE 14–20, HELSINKI FORUM.FI OPENING HOURS MON–FRI 10–21 SAT 10–19 SUN 12–18 Helsinki 115 And much Discover more: FORUM.FI

S HOPPI NG T h e E s p l a n a d e s a n d t h e i r c ro s s s t re e t s The two Esplanades, running west from the Market Square and the South Harbour, act as a magnet for fashion and design outlets: Marimekko (Mikonkatu 1) is a world-class Finnish brand, founded in 1951 by Armi Ratia. The brand is particularly known for the bold and distinctive textile designs drawn by Maija Isola, such as Unikko, Kaivo, and Lokki. In the early 1960s, Marimekko was in the international trend vanguard, when style icon Jackie Kennedy took a liking to the Mari prints. Artek (Keskuskatu 1 B) is another internationally recognized quality design brand, founded in 1935. One of the founders was architect Alvar Aalto, one of the pre-eminent names in modern architecture. Aalto’s timeless designs and a rigorous attention to quality have kept Artek furniture and fittings in demand around the world for more than 70 years. A few years ago Artek started to collect old Aalto chairs from flea markets and wanted to give these classics a new lease on life. Artek 2nd Cycle (Pieni Roobertinkatu 4–6) sells these iconic second-hand chairs and vintage classics by designers like Charles and Ray Eames, Ilmari Tapiovaara and Arne Jacobsen. The Iittala Group is a leading homeware design firm and a pioneering name in modern Scandinavian design. The company’s roots lie in the Iittala Glassworks, where the world-famous Aalto vases are blown (design by Alvar Aalto). The Iittala store at Pohjoisesplanadi 23 also the place for top-quality Hackman cookware and cutlery, and the design gift items and tableware from Arabia (for instance Kaj Frank’s Teema collection). Nanso is a popular Finnish clothing line. These days it is particularly known for its young designers. Nanso is also a trailblazer in ethical, sustainable fashion, through its Fair Trade cotton collection. The Nanso store is at Mikonkatu 2. Vuokko (Korkeavuorenkatu 4) is a clothing brand founded by the celebrated Finnish textile and garment designer Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi. Vuokko’s clothes represent the classic Finnish design idiom. Before setting up her own company, Eskolin-Nurmesniemi was one of the front-line designers with Marimekko. Kalevala Koru / Lapponia Jewelry (Pohjoisesplanadi 25–27) design and manufacture bold and yet timeless jewellery items leaning heavily on Finnish culture and the national epic, Kalevala. The shop is located at a renovated historical block between the Market Square and the Senate Square. Aarikka’s (Pohjoisesplanadi 27) design is famous for its clear Scandinavian lines, round forms and use of wood as primary material. Aarikka presents two seasonal collections of both home design and beautiful handmade jewellery. Boutique Kaarina K. is an outlet specialising in the top names in international fashion for women (such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Cartier, and Versace), and is located at Annankatu 11. Louis Vuitton has a magnificent emporium in Helsinki, on the corner of Pohjoisesplanadi and Mikonkatu. The LV-monogrammed bags and trunks of this French luxury fashion and leather goods name are known all over the world. For luxury eyewear, try Alain Mikli Boutique (Mikonkatu 2). The shop offers “frames to see as wells as to be seen”, as their slogan goes. 116 Discover Helsinki


S HOP PI NG Design & culture Design District Helsinki is a large cluster of stores, restaurants and more, with creativity as the common factor along with their location, spreading out from the hub of the Diana Park in Erottaja, at the south end of Mannerheimintie, extending in all directions from the park. The DDH blocks embrace some 25 streets and 200 stores, from jewellery workshops to tapas bars, from galleries to clothing shops and design agencies and interior architects, and even a couple of boutique hotels. There is no precise boundary to the area, and DDH is a kind of living work in progress. The distinctive black circular “Design District” logo, displayed on their street-front doors, make the DDH shops easy to identify. Fashionistas should check out the Katri Niskanen shop (Bulevardi 15), the Anna Ruohonen Concept Store (Uudenmaankatu 15) and shoe designer Minna Parikka’s shop at Aleksanterinkatu 36. It is a wonderland for women who love super-feminine, high-heeled shoes. Parikka’s shoes are often playful and seductive and have a retro feel. Samuji (Erottajankatu 9 B) is one of Finland’s most successful fashion brands. Samuji’s high-quality garments represent a simple practicality. MAKIA designs simple and functional clothes that aim to stand the test of time. Makia Clothing’s flagship store is located centrally at Mannerheimintie 22-24, next door to The Karhu Concept Store selling trainers and sportswear by the iconic Finnish sports brand. For something unique, visit Costo (Yrjönkatu 34) for their colourful hats and other accessories. Fredrikinkatu, familiarly known as ”Freda”, is one of the Design District Helsinki shopping streets, and along both sides of its impressive length there are dozens of small boutiques selling fashionwear and home decoration items. Check out Casuarina (Fredrikinkatu 30) for timeless east-meetswest furniture and Pino (Fredrikinkatu 22) for the most charming small design items. It is also worth exploring the streets that branch off Fredrikinkatu. Bulevardi, for instance, is a great location for art galleries and antique shops, and where Bulevardi meets the sea at Hietalahti there is a large and bustling flea-market in the summer months. See the boxed text on page 120 for more information. E xplore your hip side Kallio and Hakaniemi represent Helsinki’s young, hip and urban side. The area has been ranked as one of the 20 most hipster neighbourhoods in the world. The streets round here have a lot of small design 118 Discover Helsinki and vintage/retro shops. One interesting walking-route is to head along Porthaninkatu towards Karhupuisto (”Bear Park” in English, and yes, there is a red granite sculpture of a bear, as well as a delightful kiosk café in the summer), and then through the park to Helsinginkatu. Kallio has treasures for those who keep their eyes open! Along the way it is worth stopping off at Ansa (Agricolankatu 5), a little boutique that specialises in second-hand, vintage, and recycled and “redesigned” clothes, and then just around the corner at Tapettitalo (Fleminginkatu 4), with a collection of 2,000 design wallpapers, including designs by Finnish designers Maaria Wirkkala and Ilmari and Annikki Tapiovaara. A few doors down you’ll find another delightful vintage store, Fargo Vintage, at Fleminginkatu 20. Quite nearby at Kaarlenkatu 12 Wanha Kaarle sells the most fabulous colourful design items from the 1950–70’s. Taste Finland The Market Square occupies a great site in the South Harbour at the eastern end of the two Esplanades. The market sells Finnish delicacies like crisp tiny muikku or vendace (from the salmon family), loi-mulohi or “blazed” salmon cooked over an open fire, and berries in season, like Arctic cloudberries, and of course strawberries galore. See the next article for further information on traditional Finnish food. There are also plenty of stalls selling handicrafts and souvenirs. On a fine day, it is worth dropping in for coffee at one of the market’s tented cafés. Many of the locals will be doing likewise, and tucking into sticky jam doughnuts or a hot meat pie. A few steps from the open-air market is the Old Market Hall (Wanha Kauppahalli), which is a big draw for gourmet shoppers. There is also a nice small restaurant by Michelin-level chefs and pastry chefs. Browse the hall for Finnish delicacies such as rye bread or cold-smoked salmon or go for international flavours. This is a good place to fill your picnic basket for a daytrip to Suomenlinna. One of the best places to shop for organic food is Ruohonjuuri (Keskuskatu 6 / City-käytävä or Salomonkatu 5, next to the Kamppi shopping centre), an ecoshop with a large selection of organic products. Located a 10-minute walk away from the city centre, Anton&Anton (Museokatu 19) is well worth the walk. This stylish shop sells organic food from local producers and some of the coolest international eco brands. For those in a hurry, the Herkku food store at Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52) is always a safe bet. For a sweet treat, a highly recommended option is to grab a traditional Finnish ‘voisilmäpulla’ bun from Patisserie Teemu & Markus (Yrjönkatu 25).

Flagship store: Through the Rough Seas Mannerheimintie 22-24, 00100 Helsinki M A K I AC LO T H I N G . C O M FUR OUTERWEAR & ACCESSOR I ES HAND MADE IN FINLAND iɸšȺ̋ɕɝˍ̴ø̻ʯ̂Ǚ ¤ɸͦͦΕɝɱš̴̻ͦȦ yǙɸ̋ɝʕɱɝ ΝˣȺǙʈʈɝˣȑ ƑȺǙʈʈɝȷ̂ɕʯͦ̋Ǚ

S HOP PI NG Off the Centre The Marimekko factory outlet is located at Kirvesmiehenkatu 7 in Herttoniemi, which is two stops before Itäkeskus on the same metro route. Expect plenty of company – the place is a pilgrimage spot for Marimekko fans. The Iittala & Arabia Design Centre at Hämeentie 135 A, the location of the Arabia ceramics factory, has Arabia, Finlayson, Opa, and Pentik outlets. Discerning shoppers have a chance here to pick up some kitchenware, textiles, and ceramics finds at special prices. The Outlet at Hämeentie 135 A also sells Fiskars products. The Fiskars name is probably best associated with the company’s distinctive orangehandled scissors, which have been manufactured for 40 years, with over 900 million sold worldwide. ••• HIT THE FLEA MARKETS! Hietalahdentori flea market (Lönnrotinkatu 34), also known as Hietsu, is open from May to September Mon–Fri from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sat from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sun from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. A Helsinki classic, Hietsu is a great place for fun finds or just hanging out. It now has a serious contender in Kattilahallin kirppis at the Suvilahti area, a popular monthly flea market a few bus stops off the centre, and Konepajan Bruno, open on Saturdays and Sundays (Aleksis Kiven katu 17 A). Siivouspäivä (Cleaning Day) turns Helsinki into a big second-hand market, where anyone can sell or give away their old things. It takes place every May on the Saturday of the week 21, and every last Saturday of August. Vanha kirkkopuisto in the heart of the city is one of the most popular spots with 100+ sellers. For more info, see siivouspaiva.com. Dandy Helsinki is a clothing store and a tailor shop located in Shopping Center Kluuvi. The boutique is specialised in premium suits and clothes that are made in Italy and has a collection of high-quality Italian accessories and bags. Dandy Helsinki can also alter your own clothes to fit you better by, for example, shortening trousers or sleeves. Dandy Helsinki, Shopping centre Kluuvi, 1st floor Aleksanterinkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki +358 45 2122 866, tailor@dandyhelsinki.fi www.dandyhelsinki.fi

Shopping Centre at Your Service! Kamppi Shopping Centre is located in the heart of Helsinki. Over 150 stores and services over six floors offer a large selection for every shopper. Domestic and international brands, glorious cafés and restaurants make Kamppi a perfect destination. Welcome! Urho Kekkosen Katu 1 00100 Helsinki Mon–Fri 9–21, Sat 9–19, Sun 12–18 Kamppi.fi

EN RU JP CN Above the ordinary Больше чем обычно 店舗の紹介 高质享受 11 restaurants, hairdresser, beauty salon, yogastudio and nightclub with spectacular views on the 5th floor. Open every day from early morning till late evening. 11 ресторанов, салон красоты, парикмахерская, студия йоги и ночной клуб с великолепным видом на пятом этаже. Торговый центр открыт каждый день с раннего утром до позднего вечера. 11軒のレストラン・美容室・ ビューティーサロン・ヨガス タジオ・地上5階からの見晴ら しの良さも楽しめる、ナイト クラブ等。 毎日早朝から深夜まで営業し ています。 11间餐厅,理发店,美容院, 瑜伽中心和五楼的夜总会里可 饱览窗外美景。 营业时间为每天清早至深夜。 KORTTELI — Kamppi Shopping Centre, 5th floor — Urho Kekkosen Katu 1 — kampinkortteli.fi

Tagliatore L.B.M Berwich Incotex Gran Sasso Herno Carmina Shoemaker Drake´s E.Marinella Acqua di Parma Mismo Buttero Vaatturiliike Sauma - high quality multibrand menswear store in the heart of Helsinki. Vaatturiliike Vaatturilii ke Sauma Sauma- - high qualit y multib rand menswearst ore in the hear tof Helsinki .(Rus) Vaatturilii ke Sauma - high qualit y multib rand menswearst ore in the hear tof Helsinki .(CHI) Vaatturiliike Sauma -

G A STRONO MY T E X T BY J U H A TA N T T U Restaurants and dining A Cavalcade of Four Gastronomic Seasons Finnish cuisine reflects the country’s location between east and west. You can also taste the endless summer days and the long winters in what Finnish cuisine has to offer. THOSE IN SEARCH of Finnish cuisine make their way to the market halls and market squares, which can be found in almost every locality. In Helsinki, the Market Square, or Kauppatori, is much used by the city’s residents, and many statesmen have savoured smoked Baltic herring bought fresh from fishing boats moored along the picturesque waterfront, or enjoyed their morning coffee with a fritter or a meat pie from a market stall. Lo c a l d e l i c a c i e s The four seasons and local specialities create a colourful display across the markets of Finland. In Tampere, for example, they sell hot black sausages, in Finnish (‘mustamakkara’) and lingonberry sauce; in Turku, ‘rusinamakkara’, or raisin sausages, while in Pori in the autumn, fresh grilled river lampreys are sold in the market square. The traditions of pasty-making in Finland come from the east. In Savo, for instance, the kalakukko, a Finnish fish pasty, is a traditional dish, best bought fresh from the market squares in Kuopio. The kalakukko pasty is a plump round loaf of rye bread crust filled with slices of fish and pork, and baked slowly in an oven. Another popular variety of pasty is the Karelian rice pasty, karjalanpiirakka, which originates in Northern Karelia. A thin rye dough crust is filled with rice 126 Discover Helsinki


G A STRONO MY <<< Most Finns love fresh berries and salty liquorice. HARRI TARVAINEN / VISIT FINLAND pudding, and served warm with butter. The shape of the pasty, as a tourist once pointed out, resembles a moccasin! These pasties are hugely popular and sold in every supermarket. As many Finns will say, rye bread is for the locals what spinach is for Popeye. Rye bread has been recently chosen as the national food of Finland by almost 10,000 votes. The dark brown, mildly sour bread is traditionally made of sourdough to which only water, salt and flour are added. The traditional shapes are a loaf or a circular shape with a hole in the middle. Incidentally, the original purpose of the hole in the middle of the loaf is that people used to hang them to dry on poles that stretched across the ceiling. The mild sour tang typical of Finnish rye bread results from lactic fermentation and it has been used to flavour Finn crisps, thin and crispy rye breads baked with sourdough that are now a successful export product. In southwestern Finland and in the archipelago offshore, sour-sweet breads and malted breads are a speciality. There is also a black bread, called saaristolaisleipä; it is also found in northern parts of Finland, where blood may be added to produce a local variety of the recipe. Some Finnish breads are more like cakes. Pulla, a very popular Finnish bun, is usually enjoyed with coffee. Then there are cinnamon cakes, twists and rings (korvapuusti). And pies too filled with seasonal produce: in winter with curd cheese, in spring with rhubarb, in summer with fresh berries, and in autumn with apples. A va r i e t y o f f i s h d i s h e s A survey of a Finnish buffet table will give a fair impression of the variety and range of Finnish cuisine. Although quite similar to the Swedish smörgåsbord, the Finnish buffet has its own traditions, an important part of which is salted fish, including lightly salted whitefish and salmon, along with herring and Baltic herring in different kinds of sauces. The roe of whitefish and burbot is Finnish caviar at its best. Finns eat fish with boiled potatoes. A popular way of preparing fish is to smoke it. Salmon, whitefish and Baltic herring are both hot-smoked and cold-smoked, but it is popular to cook fish over an open fire too. A smoke bag, which is a Finnish idea, has come onto the market, making the smoking of fresh fish much easier. When eating salted or smoked herring people often 128 Discover Helsinki

have a small drink of Koskenkorva or Finlandia vodka – to toast your companions in Finnish you say kippis; the more Scandinavian way is to say skål. After the fish course, it is time to savour smoked reindeer or ham, meat in aspic, a beetroot salad called rosolli, and home-made cheese. A nice way to enjoy the Finnish buffet is on a sightseeing dinner cruise. You will find several companies offering a number of routes in the Market Square. Modern Nordic cuisine. Sea view from every table. C a s s e ro l e s a n d s t e w s The main course on the Finnish buffet-table is usually roasted meat. There are also different kinds of meat pots, such as karjalanpaisti, or Karelian stew, which is prepared using different kinds of meats, and simmered for a long time in the oven. The stew or hot pot is a Finnish classic and came second when the national food of Finland was recently chosen in a public call of votes. Casseroles of liver, macaroni, carrots or swedes are usually served as a side dish to the main meat platter. Other side dishes include pickled beetroot and cucumber, or lingonberry jam. Dishes from the Arctic are probably some of the most distinctive recipes to be enjoyed in Finland. After a hard day skiing on the fells of Lapland poronkäristys, or sautéed reindeer, takes some beating. It is a simple but very tasty dish served piping hot on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes, and enjoyed with a glass of chilled Lapin Kulta beer. This traditional dish is quite often seen on the menus of Helsinki’s many Finnish and Lapp restaurants. See the next article for more information on the restaurants. Modern Nordic cuisine. Sea view from every table. Kellosaarenranta 2, Helsinki +358 (0) 10 424 9830 Charmed by berries The most popular Finnish desserts are made of berries. Many tourists have been charmed by the combination of cold, part-frozen cranberries covered with a hot caramel sauce. Another distinctively Finnish dessert from the north is juustoleipä (known elsewhere as bread cheese or squeaky cheese). It is usually warmed in the oven and topped with cloudberry jam. Finnish pancakes are characteristically small, and served with strawberry or raspberry jam. In summer, however, the lucky tourist may be invited to a party where they cook giant pancakes (muurinpohjaletut) in a large cast-iron pot outside in the garden. ETELÄINEN RAUTATIEKATU 4 00100 HELSINKI Bistro Manu invites modern masters and everyday heroes to pop in. Manu is the meeting place of everyday heroes, like you and me, to enjoy good service, food and drinks. Food for all seasons Finnish cuisine also reflects the passage of the four seasons: cold, dark winters and long, warm summer days, the freshness of new spring growth and the abundant harvests of autumn combine in a rich variety of recipes and dishes. www.raflaamo.fi/fi/helsinki/bistro-manu

G A STRONO MY A real delicacy in January is burbot roe, and blini, a kind of pancake, topped with whipped or sour cream and chopped onion. During the blini season, several restaurants run blini theme weeks that take place for several weeks during January and February, depending on the restaurant. Many people think a winter burbot soup is the best soup of the year, done with potatoes, melted butter and chopped onion. Incidentally, the addition of milk or cream is characteristic of many Finnish fish soup recipes. In February, it is very cold outside, so people eat rather heavy foods such as thick soups. Curiously, pea soup has traditionally been eaten on Thursdays, and this dish is typically followed by pancakes with jam. Pea soup and pancakes should also be eaten on Laskiaistiistai, or Shrove Tuesday. 5th February is Runeberg’s Day, which commemorates Finland’s national poet, Johan Ludwig Runeberg (1804–77). The Finnish flag flies across the land and the little Runeberg sponge, called Runebergin torttu, are sold in confectioneries everywhere. Joys of spring The arrival of Eastertide is a sign that the long winter is coming to its end. Mämmi, a malt-based pudding served with cream and sugar, is probably the most well-known. You either love it or hate it as it tends to be an acquired taste. Roast lamb is another traditional Easter dish, as are eggs and chicken. The Orthodox tradition brings sweet dishes such as pasha, kulitsa and baba, and children wait eagerly for Fazer’s Mignon chocolate eggs: a real eggshell filled with the finest chocolate. According to most Finns, the first of May heralds the real arrival of spring. It is not just a public holiday it is the carnival day of the year throughout the country. With it comes Finnish doughnuts and tippaleipä, a pastry of sweet batter fried in hot oil. Sima, a type of mead is traditionally drunk on this day, and sparkling wines consumed enthusiastically. Sausages and potatoes The summer in Finland starts on 1st June. Most Finns leave their city apartments for the tranquillity of the countryside and their summer cottages, which are usually situated by lakes. Barbecues are very popular, and smoked and grilled foods are prepared in the sunshine. Herbs, such as dill and parsley, are picked fresh from the garden to add flavours to the summer recipes. The lakeside sauna is another very important part of the Finnish summer experience, and after sauna, it is time for hot grilled sausages and cold beers. 130 Discover Helsinki Ateneum Bistro is located in the historical building that houses Ateneum Art Museum right next to the central railway station. Stop by for a steaming plate of traditional Finnish salmon soup or sit down for afternoon tea. Our cafe & restaurant offers a peaceful oasis to enjoy some Finnish delicacies in the bustle of the city. Ateneum Art Museum Kaivokatu 2, 00100 Helsinki #ateneumbistro ateneumbistro.fi ateneum@soupster.com +35840 5638430

By June it is possible to buy fresh home-grown strawberries and small new potatoes, delicious when served with a dab of butter and fresh chopped dill. Rhubarb pies are another favourite. The highlight of the summer season is the Midsummer holiday, celebrated at the last weekend of June. Midsummer Eve means bonfires on the shores of lakes and sea alike, and naturally eating too: sausage, pancakes and smoked fish among others. The gastronomic culmination of the summer is 21st July, when the crayfish season begins. Even Finns living abroad like to come to home at this time to join their friends at the crayfish parties held all over the country. Har vest food Harvest time in Finland comes in August and September. People catch Baltic herring and flatfish from the sea, hunters shoot wild ducks and elk, and the forest yields its rich crops of edible mushrooms, lingonberries and cranberries. A bit later, seaside towns bustle with activity as the fishermen bring their catches to market: pickled fish, salted fish, and Baltic herring. The most popular Finnish desserts are made of berries. The roes of vendace, whitefish and Baltic herring appear on the stalls too. This red caviar is one of the best in the world. In December, Finns get together probably more often than during the other winter months. They share a hot Christmas toddy, glögi, which is a hot spicy blackcurrant beverage in the tradition of glühwein. In restaurants they serve different kinds of herrings, salmon, ham and casseroles and dried codfish, of course. This Christmas dish is eaten with a thick milky sauce, melted butter and potatoes, and spiced with pepper. A typical dessert at Christmas time is the joulutorttu, a starshaped plum tart, and from kitchens everywhere there is the wonderful aroma of spicy ginger biscuits cooking in hot ovens. ••• 116

ENJOY A TR UE CLASSIC! For decades, Restaurant Lehtovaara has been renowned for serving Finnish and international dishes of the highest quality. Lehtovaara is famous for its cosy atmosphere, exquisite dishes and its warm, customer-friendly service. The restaurant has 120 seats. Our year-round glass patio is particularly popular. Our wine list includes a comprehensive selection of high-quality wines representing various wine-growing areas and grape varieties, not forgetting a number of fascinating specialities. Lehtovaara is among Helsinki’s longest-established restaurants. Founded by Confectioner Emil Lehtovaara in Vyborg in 1916, it was sold to Stockholm-born Ragnar Hansson in 1922. When the Winter War (1939) began, most of Vyborg’s citizens were evacuated and Hansson moved Lehtovaara to Helsinki in 1940. The restaurant has occupied the same premises ever since, in the Taka-Töölö neighbourhood next to the Sibelius Park. Restaurant Lehtovaara, Mechelininkatu 39, 00250 Helsinki www.lehtovaara.fi, Table reservations: (09) 440 833 Welcome Karljohan serves traditional Finnish food and well known classics with a personal touch. Our vorschmack, slowly braised pork chuck, sweetbread and other offal delicacies have found us many loyal friends over the 32 years. After the busy lunch, the restaurant opens again at 5 pm for dinner. A cosy atmosphere invites you to enjoy the seasons specialities and well prepared classics with a friendly and easygoing service. Yrjönkatu 21, 00100 HELSINKI Tel. +358 9 612 1121 karljohan@karljohan.fi www.karljohan.fi

WELCOME TO SOFIA RESTAURANTS! The old town of Helsinki is full of new life! Sofia is located next to the Senate Square and offers a charming place to spend time during your stay. WANT TO ENJOY AN AMAZING VIEW WHILE EATING A MOUTH-WATERING DINNER MENU? Sofia Gastro, Unioninkatu 27 C FANCY A CUP OF COFFEE OR TEA IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS IN HELSINKI? LOOKING FOR A QUICK, HEALTHY AND TASTY LUNCH? Sofia Bistro, Aleksanterinkatu 28 Tea Salon, Sofiankatu 4 C Helsinki Cathedral & Senate Square Sofia Future Farm, Sofiankatu 4 C Sofia Wine, Unioninkatu 27 Visit WWW.SOFIAFUTUREFARM.FI/EN for more info. Pohjoisesplanadi Sofia Tea LOVE THE GRAPES? RELAX WITH A GLASS OF RED OR WHITE IN OUR WINE BAR. SOFIANKATU 4 C NEED A PLACE TO WORK FOR A DAY OR TWO? CHECK OUT OUR COWORKING SPACES! UNIONINKATU 27 ALEKSANTERINKATU 28 Market Square

Lönnrotinkatu 18, 00120 Helsinki Puh +358 50 310 2722 info@bacco.fi WWW.BACCO.FI Modern Italian enoteca & pizzeria set in the heart of downtown Helsinki. Bacco offers true delicaties from different regions of Italy. Highly digestible pizzas made with long maturation method and fresh ingredienst. The food is simple and changes frequently determined by the freshest available seasonal products. Whether you’re craving a traditional Italian gourmet pizza, an unforgettable “polpetta al sugo”, a melt-in-your-mouth “risotto alla milanese” or simply a plate of “salumi e formaggi”, Bacco is sure to have your back. The Italian word, enoteca, literally means “place to enjoy wine” and when it comes to wine restaurant’s wide selection is sure to satisfy. There’s something for all tastes and budgets with reasonably priced quality wines for any occasion. Stop by for glass of wine and a “spuntino” or a delightful pizza dinner in good company. Seasonally inspired fresh food Our food concept is inspired by Italian and French food culture. We focus on sourcing high quality ingredients directly from Italy and France, but we also want to support Finnish local producers as much as possible. The traceability of our ingredients is a fundamental aspect of our concept. We want to create a delicious, casual and easily approachable dining experience for everyone who wants to enjoy great food and good company! Tehtaankatu 25, 00150 Helsinki phone: +358 10 3370750 groups and catering: +358 10 3370755 info@fabrikhelsinki.fi WWW.FABRIKHELSINKI.FI

THE ONLY REAL STEAK HOUSE IN HELSINKI GOODWIN THE STEAK HOUSE HELSINKI Ma - Su 11:00 - 23:00 Eteläranta 14, 00130 Helsinki Tel.: +358 50 4198 000 E-mail: info@steak.fi Web: www.steak.fi GOODWIN THE STEAK HOUSE TALLINN Ma - Su 12:00 - 23:00 Viru 22, 10140 Tallinn Tel.: +372 661 5518 E-mail: info@steak.ee Web: www.steak.ee

Restaurant Kolmon3n offers modern high quality home cooking. Our dishes are created using clean flavours sourced from the best local and Scandinavian ingredients. Lunch is served Monday to Friday from 11am until 15.30pm. À la carte Monday to Friday from 16.30pm until 23pm and Saturday from 15pm until 23pm. Sori Taproom & Eatery Helsinki • Vuorikatu 16, 00100 Helsinki www.soritaproom.com • +358 44 243 8404 varaus@soritaproom.com Step inside and enjoy dining with us in the heart of Kallio at Restaurant Kolmon3n. Restaurant Kolmon3n Kolmas linja 11, 00530 Helsinki +358 44 775 3333 varaus@kolmon3n.com www.kolmon3n.com Our modern American styled kitchen with all favorite foods including the best smoked and grilled meats. We use a lot of organic and locally produced ingredients in order to bring you a prime gastronomic experience. Serious eats for not so serious people. Mon-Thu 11-24 Fri 11-02 (Lunch Mon-Fri 11-14) Sat 12-02 Sun 16-22.30 Enjoy high-quality seafood at our seafront restaurant in Helsinki. Join us for lunch on weekdays and brunch on weekends. Welcome! På Kroken Helsinki, Hietalahdenranta 11, 00180 Helsinki, p. 044 986 9732, www.pakroken.fi På Kroken Helsinki @pakrokenhelsinki

À la Carte BAR&Terrace Lunch Get ready for relaxed backyard atmosphere at the center of the city! Opening hours: Mon - Fri 7.30 am - 10 pm Sat 12 noon - 10 pm 010 205 3217, ravintola@backyardpick.fi Salomonkatu 1, 00100 Helsinki backyardpick.fi

EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND • EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND • EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND S T E A K  H O U S E S I N C E 1 9 8 6 CHARCOAL GRILL Welcome to enjoy the best pizzas in Helsinki and Italian inspired pastas and risottos in a cozy and relaxed atmosphere! EXQUISITE WINE LIST You can find us at GROOVY MUSIC FRIENDLY STAFF LAID BACK ATMOSPHERE LUNCH MON-FRI  SAT 10.30-16.00 11.00-15.00 AND OF COURSE... Bulevardi 32, Helsinki 020 7768481 www.dennis.fi Benvenuto! Eteläesplanadi 24, HELSINKI www.manhattansteakhouse.fi

R E STAU RA NTS T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Fresh and local – Restaurants in Helsinki Take a culinary trip around Helsinki and fall in love with the versatility and pureness of Finnish cuisine. For a small city, Helsinki can offer a wide range of restaurants catering to every taste. THE CULINARY SCENE of Helsinki is booming and the city takes food seriously. The preference for locally produced food is a global trend which is evident here in Helsinki, along with a passion for creating an authentic Finnish food culture. The best restaurants in Helsinki have taken pride in using Finnish ingredients with a seasonal approach. Using the best local raw materials, many top chefs blend traditional Finnish cuisine with French, Mediterranean or other international influences. The trend is now towards street food and relaxed, bistro-style small restaurants. Stars and classics Helsinki has its share of Michelin stars – there are six restaurants currently with that distinction – but broadly speaking, high standards are the norm in Finnish restaurants, not the exception. Visitors will enjoy the varied menus available at Helsinki’s many top-rated restaurants, most of which are located either in the city centre or within walking distance of it. During the high season, it is advisable to make a reservation in the top restaurants. Main dishes will cost anything from 20 up to 80 euros. Ask (Vironkatu 8, www.restaurantask.com) is an intimate restaurant with 26 seats offering a daily set menu. They source their produce from small organic farmers and producers. Ask has now an easygoing little sister in Jord (Urho Kekkosen katu 1), which is located on the 5th floor of the Kamppi shopping centre. Olo (Pohjoisesplanadi 5, www.olo-ravintola.fi) serves up New Nordic food. This owner of a Michelin star is renowned for their seasonal thinking and ambitious food. Have a drink before dinner in the stylish inner courtyard. 140 Discover Helsinki


Created by Top Chef winner Akseli Herlevi. Get 20 % off all burgers on the menu with the Discover Helsinki app. Find us at Lönnrotinkatu 13. 142 Discover Helsinki HEALTHY TASTES GOOD. NAUGHTY TASTES BETTER.

Savoy (Eteläesplanadi 14, www.ravintolasavoy.fi) is a classic established in 1937. It hasn’t rested on its laurels since then, either. The Sunday Times Travel Magazine has named Savoy the most romantic dining spot in Helsinki. The restaurant makes the finest healthy food in town and also serves signature dishes like vorschmack, a salty meat dish prepared out of minced meat, herring and onions. Juuri (Korkeavuorenkatu 27, www.juuri.fi) serves food that is proudly Finnish. The small restaurant is best known for its sapas, tasty Finnish tapas bites. The rustic yet polished interior makes a great setting for the food that is contemporary but remembers its roots. Demo (Uudenmaankatu 9–11, www.restaurantdemo.fi) has kept its Michelin star for ten years in a row. The bistro-styled smallish restaurant draws ideas from the French and Scandinavian cuisines and mixes it with the unexpected. Ora (Huvilakatu) opened in late 2017, and gained a Michelin star just a few months after that. The small restaurant that seats only 23 people serves seasonal, locally produced food. St y l i s h a n d i n d e p e n d e n t Inari (Albertinkatu 19 A, www.ravintolainari.fi) is one of the brightest new stars in the Helsinki restaurant scene. This unique gem of a restaurant defies categorisation combining Finnish ingredients with Japanese philosophy and techniques. Muru (Fredrikinkatu 41, www.murudining.fi) is a tiny restaurant owned by Finnish celebrity chefs. It has been praised for its focus on quality ingredients. The menu changes daily and the service is friendly. Baskeri & Basso or BasBas (Tehtaankatu 27–29, www.basbas.fi) is one of the most interesting newcomers in Helsinki. They serves excellent Italian-inspired food in an urban setting. This is the place to come if you feel peckish in the late hours as their kitchen stays open until 2 a.m. Just round the corner, Kitchen and Bar by Maannos (Telakkakatu 5, www.maannos.fi) serves vegetarian-focused food with meat and fish on the side. Maannos emphasises innovation and sustainability and is very reasonably priced. Another good option in the same area is Sikke’s (Tehtaankatu 34, sikkes.fi), a cosy new restaurant offering traditional food made from good local ingredients. Street food Summer brings street food trucks and food bikes to the streets of Helsinki. One of the most original is the Blueberry Milk Bike (Mustikkamaitopyörä) that sells a delicious Finnish alternative to frozen yoghurt. You can often find the moving stand on a bike at the Esplanade park on a warm summer day. Continuing to keep things cool is Jädelino, a mobile ice cream bar that sells delicious Italian-style artisanal gelato, usually in the area around the Hakaniemi Market Square. You can also visit their parlour at Teurastamo to get their freshly hand-made and additive free gelato. If you’ve worked up an appetite from all that sight-seeing, grab some spicy grilled cheese sandwiches to go from Warung Chili & Cheese. This food truck takes delicious Javanese-style street food all around Helsinki so that you don’t have to be hungry while exploring. You can also find street-style food if you want to go indoors for a while. Step into the Hietalahti Market Hall (Lönnrotinkatu 34), the antique Old Market Hall of Helsinki that has come to life again with small restaurants and cafes, serving everything from ramen to the best burgers in town. Alternatively, there’s the 6K Foodmarket at the Kamppi Shopping Centre, which is a popular hub of small street food restaurants including fish and chips shop Fisu & Ranet, Indonesian-style Bali Brunch and the very popular Street Gastro (www.streetgastro.fi) that was once just a food truck owned by two ambitious chefs. Now it is a chain of four restaurants serving delicious gourmet sandwiches. Fafa’s (www.fafas.fi) has several branches around Helsinki. Loved by vegetarians and meat-eaters as well, this fast-food restaurant is known for its delicious falafel – their pita with falafel and halloumi is a huge favourite amongst customers. Their branch at Iso Roobertinkatu is very popular in summer because of its location near to Diana Park, where customers like to hang out and enjoy their food. Döner Harju (Fleminginkatu 23, Kallio district / Citycenter shopping centre, Kaivokatu 8) was created when its owners wanted Helsinki to have a place that served good kebab similar to that found in Berlin. Its cool, minimalistic interior is often packed with eager fans of kebab. If you are looking for gourmet hamburgers try Naughty BRGR. This stylish place is run by the first Finnish Top Chef winner and offers a short menu of superb handmade burgers and delicious sides. Hernesaaren Ranta is a summertime outdoor event and sunbathing area with a terrace that has several kiosk restaurants that serve street foods such as sushi, Thai food, skewers, crepes and trendy bowls. If you head out of the city centre towards the Kalasatama district, you will come across the Old Abbatoir in its new incarnation as Teurastamo. Re-opened in 2012, it has become a centre for culinary and urban culture. Keep an eye out for events like Street Food Fridays and the Black Food Festival, which have been hosted at the Kellohalli venue located at Teurastamo. Discover Helsinki 143

R E STAU RA NTS Ethnic food is one of the hottest trends right now. Ethnic flavours Ethnic food is one of the hottest trends right now and Helsinki has several upscale ethnic restaurants. You can grab a quick sushi in numerous small sushi places in Helsinki. For a more intimate dinner, try Kabuki (Lapinlahdenkatu 12, www.kabuki.fi), favoured by local celebrities. Another favourite is modern Raku Ya (Eteläranta 14, www.rakuyarestaurant.com) serving izakaya style Japanese food. Farang (Ainonkatu 3, www.farang.fi) is a modern Asian restaurant with a simple and stylish décor. The food is contemporary, fresh and innovative. Gaijin (Bulevardi 6, www.gaijin.fi) by the same owners offers modern North Asian flavours. Most of the dishes are meant to be shared. Both Gaijin and Farang have gained a Bib Gourmand rating for offering good food at moderate prices. Hidden inside the Forum shopping centre, Ônam (Mannerheimintie 14) offers authentic Vietnamese dishes. For Korean cuisine, try Korea House (Mariankatu 19, www.koreahouse.fi) or Giwa (Bulevardi 19, www.giwa.fi). If you crave for Mexican food, Fridas (Lönnrotinkatu 18) is a modern contemporary Mexican cuisine, rooted in Mexican flavors. Brunch Brunch is a safe bet when you are hungry and craving for comfort food, as prices are generally affordable and you can count on getting lots of hearty food. One of the first to serve up brunch in Helsinki was Dylan (www.dylan.fi), now a chain of casual eateries. They have several popular branches in central Helsinki, for example, Dylan Marmoripiha (Keskuskatu 3 A) and Block by Dylan (Eteläesplanadi 2) that serve only breakfast, lunch and brunch. Making a reservation for the brunch is highly recommended. The stylish yet informal Block has nice views over the market and sea. Sandro (Kolmas linja 17 & Urho Kekkosen katu 1, www.sandro.fi) is one of the most popular brunch places in Helsinki. The brunch is often fully booked weeks beforehand, so make a reservation. The serve excellent North African food and the atmosphere is relaxed. For something a bit different, try Moko Market (Perämiehenkatu 10 & Vilhovuorenkatu 11, www.moko.fi), a bohemian restaurant in a cool and rustic home décor shop. They serve brunch on Saturdays from 10 a.m. onwards. A reservation is not mandatory, but guarantees you a table. Ru s s i a n c u i s i n e Russian restaurants are great for a good meal in warm and cosy surroundings. The top picks are Šašlik with its private rooms and Russian troubadours (Neitsytpolku 12, www.ravintolasaslik.fi) and Bellevue (Rahapajankatu 3, www.restaurantbellevue.com), the oldest Russian restaurant in Helsinki. Troikka (Caloniuksenkatu 3, www.troikka.fi) has been around since the 1920s. The restaurant has a unique atmosphere and serves classic Russian dishes like Chicken Kiev. A few tram stops off the centre in the Kallio area, Blinit (Sturenkatu 9) is a café serving delicious and inexpensive Russian pancakes and soups. 144 Discover Helsinki

Rivoli is a little piece of France and classic in the heart of Helsinki city. This brasserie has been at the corner of Albertinkatu and Kalevankatu since 1962 and still being run by the founding family. Rivoletto is one of the first pizza restaurants in Helsinki. Since 1971, it has been serving some of the city’s best Italian pizzas, pastas and antipastos. Albertinkatu 38, 00180 Helsinki • Tel. 09 643 455 rivoli@rivolirestaurants.fi • www.rivolirestaurants.fi Vietnamese restaurant Ônam was created in June 2016, with a new concept that aims at revolutionising the offering of Vietnamese food in Helsinki. Our food is inspired by the vibe of Vietnamese street and menu that combines the freshest ingredients with time-honoured family recipes passed down through the generations. Gluten free dishes are available and most of dishes are vegan. We are using locally produced organic tofu in our vegan dishes. Keep calm and eat juicy burgers SHOPPING CENTER FORUM Mannerheimintie 14, main street level, 00100 Helsinki MALL OF TRIPLA (Due to open in October 2019) Fredikanterassi 1, 2nd floor, 00520 Helsinki Hernesaarenkatu 15, 00150 Helsinki - 040 555 0958 www.thedockyard.fi - @thedockyardhelsinki WWW.ONAM.FI Reservation: info@onam.fi • Tel: + 358 44 988 0738

Pohjo isrant a Railway St. n Ma Bus st. im rhe ne Aleksanterinkatu ie int 6 Summer restaurant Kesä lautasella hyvän tuulen saaressa Taste of Finland by the open sea Makuja & maisemia paraatipaikalla Scandinavian tastes & magnificent sea views Mökkitunnelmaa Krunikan edustalla Taste of the season on your plate in 214-year-old log cottage Sirpalesaari island tel. +358 (0)9 7425 5566 Klippan island tel. +358 (0)9 7425 5590 Tervasaari island tel. +358 (0)9 7425 5574 e ine e inti öm nstr e Ehr 2 u ytpolk 7 Summer restaurant Lin L ja 5 Neits Tehtaankatu Vik Sil Kasarmikatu tu ka n ini rik d Fre 4 Market place ing i ard lev Bu 3 ta nran tama a Meris 1 Fish Buffet on wooden boat Lapin lumoa keskellä Helsinkiä Magic of Lapland in the heart of Helsinki By the Senate Square Makumatka tsaarin aikaan A culinary trip to Czarist Russia Suominostalgiaa sisulla ja sydämellä Real Finnish food & Finnish milieu Pieni pala iloista Ranskaa A piece of cheerful France Perheyritys josta jää hyvä maku Seven unique restaurants in the centre of Helsinki A&S Ravintoloiden myyntipalvelu / Sales: +358 (0)9 7425 5505 Bulevardi 36 tel. +358 (0)9 7425 5544 146 Discover Helsinki Neitsytpolku 12 tel. +358 (0)9 7425 5500 Aleksanterinkatu 22 tel. +358 (0)9 7425 5588 Tehtaankatu 21 tel. +358 (0)50 3212 168 sales@asrestaurants.fi www.asrestaurants.fi

For an authentic Finnish dessert, try Lapland bread cheese! A taste of Finland gohan_92x92.pdf 1 Lönnrotinkatu 22/05/2019 15.39 Hietalahti Market Hall, 34, 00180 Helsinki C M Y CM MY CY SAKE, WINE & DINE A sake & wine bar serving great food and carefully sourced artisan wines and sakes. We embrace quality ingredients, Finland’s four seasons and organic produce. Gohan is located in the historic Torikorttelit district in the heart of Helsinki. CMY K SOFIANKATU 3, 00170 HELSINKI GOHAN.FI Truly traditional Finnish food can be hard to find in Helsinki, as most of the fine dining places have French or Mediterranean influences. You can try the restaurants listed below for Finnish and Lapp favourites. Another good way to have a taste of Finnish delicacies is to try them at lunchtime – a number of restaurants serve Finnish classics like pea soup, casseroles or meat balls for lunch. Savotta (Aleksanterinkatu 22, www.ravintolasavotta.fi) is located in the heart of Helsinki by Senaatintori square. Decorated with old wood and serving its dishes on traditional Finnish china, everything matches the menu that includes lake fish, casseroles and game. If you are feeling particularly adventurous, try their tar-flavoured Sisu ice cream. Aino (Pohjoisesplanadi 21, www.ravintolaaino.fi) uses domestic seasonal ingredients and seeks inspiration from traditional Finnish cuisine. The decor is upmarket and classy, with a great view of the Esplanade Park from its street level restaurant area. Saaga (Bulevardi 34 B, www.ravintolasaaga.fi) serves Lapp food. The Lapp cuisine has been based on what the rough nature and short summer can offer; thus, the flavours are intense and the dishes are simple but alluring. The menu here includes reindeer, fish, bear and berries. Established some 20 years ago and thus the first Lapp restaurant in Helsinki Lappi (Annankatu 22, www.lappires.com) gives you a taste of Northern flavours. You’ll find all the Lapp staples from salmon, reindeer and elk to cloudberries here in an interior imitating a log cottage. Kolme Kruunua (Liisankatu 5, www.kolmekruunua.fi), established in 1952, serves traditional Finnish food. Their signature dish is meatballs with mash, and the popular herring dish is also delicious. Konstan Möljä (Hietalahdenkatu 14, www.konstanmolja.fi) serves an abundant Finnish buffet with traditional herring, reindeer and other fish and meat dishes. It is a great value at 22 €. Design restaurant Eevert (Ratakatu 9, www.eevert.fi) offers a meeting point for everybody who wants to enjoy elegant Scandinavian food and Finnish design. The menu consist of the pure ingredients from the Northern forests, fields and lakes prepared with a modern twist. Discover Helsinki 147

WELCOME TO FINNISH DESIGN RESTAURANT EEVERT WITH WONDERFUL PURE FLAVORS F�OM THE NORTHERN NATURE FIND US ON THE MAP More information and reservations: www.eevert.fi sales: +358 20 741 3011 | sales@eevert.fi Mon–Sat 17–23 | Ratakatu 9,00120 Helsinki 700m from the Corner of Stockmann 148 Discover Helsinki

The Finns are the greatest coffee drinkers in the world. Your daily dose of coffee The Finns are the greatest coffee drinkers in the world, with about ten daily cups each. You can start your introduction to light-roasted Finnish coffee in the middle of Helsinki at Pohjoisesplanadi, which is home to several cafés. Try the Café Esplanad (Pohjoisesplanadi 37) for a huge cinnamon roll or a fresh salad. Café Aalto at Akateeminen Kirjakauppa (Keskuskatu 1) is a stylish and minimalistic café in a sedate bookstore setting. A great place for browsing through your purchases! Fazer Café (Kluuvikatu 3) is a Helsinki classic established in 1891. Try the café-deli for a nice cup of coffee and hand-made chocolates or cakes made by their own bakery. You can also visit them at Helsinki’s newly opened Central Library Oodi at Kansalaistori. For a coffee break after sight-seeing, it is worth heading out of the city-centre to the famous Sibelius monument. A short walk across the FOOD FESTIVALS TAKE OVER THE STREETS Sibelius Park will find you at the cosy Café Regatta (Merikannontie 10), which has itself become famous for paying you back for your coffee – 5 cents for every refill! Naturally, the seaside has a huge pull in sunny summer days, and Kaivopuisto park is one of the most popular spots. Enjoy the view over the sea at Café Carusel (Merisatamanranta 10). It has outdoor tables crowded with locals and travellers alike trying to catch a few rays. What better way to spend a summer day doing absolutely nothing! From there, take a leisurely walk to the more trendy and upmarket Mattolaituri (Ehrenströmintie 3 A) that allures passers-by to enjoy champagne and coffee with a great view. Grab a drink and watch sailboats pass by. Or visit the traditional seaside café and restaurant Café Ursula (Ehrenströmintie 3). Café Ekberg (Bulevardi 9) is a classic. It is highly recommended for a coffee and a cake, but you can also try their lunch or breakfast. ••• Taste of Helsinki takes place in mid-June in the Töölönlahti park area in central Helsinki. This food festival calls itself a boutique picnic Restaurant Day is an original Finnish idea, a food carnival where where the best Finnish restaurants prepare the food for you. This anybody can open a pop-up restaurant for a day. The restaurants can year the festival takes place June 14th–17th. be anywhere – at a park, at a private home or a workplace – and serve anything from cakes to intestines, from organic specialities to ethnic Dinner in the Sky is an international event that visits Helsinki for dishes. Restaurant Day is celebrated four times a year, in February, the fifth time this year. A table with 22 guests is suspended at May, August and November. See www.restaurantday.org/en/ for a height of 50 metres to enjoy a dinner cooked exclusively for more information. them by local top chefs. The event takes place at Rautatientori, in August. Discover Helsinki 149

ADVE RTIS E M E NT Restaurant Muru Award-winning bistro that’s fun at heart SINCE ITS OPENING in 2010, Muru has earned a stellar reputation as one of Finland’s finest restaurants. Muru’s kitchen is headed by top chef Henri Alen, who has appeared on Masterchef and American Food Battle, and their incredibly expansive wine cellar is under the care of highly experienced sommeliers Samuil Angelov and Taneli Lehtonen. Located in the heart of Helsinki, ‘fun-dining’ is the motto of this award-winning bistro. Keeping the mood relaxed, in true bistro style, while serving food that maintains fine-dining standards, has been key to accomplishing this goal. Charming and offbeat in style, with a delightfully crafted wine-bottle chandelier and lampshades made from repurposed wine boxes, the restaurant’s mood is light-hearted yet intimate. This is reflected in the teams’ approach to their restaurant, where their focus is on the experience of their customers, whom they prefer to consider as friends. The hallmarks of their menu are simplicity, seasonality and quality. Because of this, their four-course menu changes daily, underscored by the philosophy that they only serve what is perfect today. The menu is rooted in Gallic tradition but also has a Nordic twist. While the four-course menu is standard, there is also a small a la carte list to choose from, and options are available for diners who have special requirements such as vegan or gluten-free dishes. While the menu might be short, the wine list is certainly not, with some 850 labels in their collection. Overseeing their collection is sommelier Samuil Angelov, who is currently the President of the Finnish Sommelier Association. Angelov has previously held the role of Chef Sommelier at both the Brasserie Kämp and the Savoy Restaurant, both of which are prestigious restaurants in Helsinki. Together with Taneli, their combined experience, knowledgeability and passion for wine has earned the restaurant the Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator in 2017, the first time the honour was given to a Finnish restaurant. Muru is the only holder of ‘two glasses’ in Finland, a ‘glass’ being akin to the Michelin star in the wine industry. Their cellar has a wide selection of French as well as New World wines and the cellar holds some intriguing finds, including their oldest vintage from 1772, as well as unexpected surprises such as wine from China, which is a relative newcomer to the Western markets. Muru’s drinks menu also includes non-alcoholic options for diners who prefer not to indulge and, of course, for kids, who are also welcome to dine there, in keeping with the laidback and relaxed vibe of the bistro. Expect uncompromising food, warm service and a good time when you visit Muru! They are open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Restaurant Muru Fredrikinkatu 41, 00120 Helsinki Tel +358 300 472 335 varaukset@murudining.fi www.murudining. fi

SEASONAL PRODUCE! FRESH IDEAS! DELICIOUS FOOD! Telakkakatu 5, Helsinki 050 505 6875 www.maannos.fi @maannos

Latin American CUisine 134 fACebook/MAyA.HeLsinki instAgrAM: @MAyAbArAndgriLL MAyA.fi Lönnrotinkatu 11, 00120 Helsinki MikonkAtU 18, 00100 HeLsinki

MAMMA ROSA No bullshit. POPULAR FAMILY RESTAURANT SINCE 1980 There really is a restaurant open every day of the year all night long in Espoo. We get excited over visually stunning, hand made and abundant food. We grill, we smoke, we fry and constantly bake new ideas while our genuine italian wood-oven bears handsdown the best pizzas in all of Espoo. To top that we lined up the sickest and largest selection of Fat Lizard and other craft breweries’ beers. International cuisine with fresh fish every day. Menu also includes pizza and pasta. Located next to the Töölö market square. Indoor seating and covered terrace seating even when it´s (sometimes) raining. Welcome to our place! www.mammarosa.fi Tel: +358 9 4342760, Address: Runeberginkatu 55, 00260 Helsinki Tietotie 1, 02150 Espoo otaniemi@ravintolafatlizard.fi +358 20 127 7710 Sun-Thu 10.30-24.00 Fri-Sat 10.30-02.00 Bank holidays open at 12.00 How does that sound for a worthy visit? TOKYO55 AUTHENTIC JAPANESE RESTAURANT WITH JAPANESE SUSHI CHEFS SERVING TOP CLASS SUSHI WITH A UNIQUE TWIST For lunch times we also serve a very popular sushi buffet. When you visit Tokyo55 you will want to book again. Welcome to Tokyo55! ravintolafatlizard.fi www.tokyo55.fi Tel: +358 9 43427640, Address: Runeberginkatu 55 B, 00260 Helsinki

We have two wonderful terraces, one with a view to Helsinki Market Square and one at the courtyard 2nd Floor Ristorante Handmade fresh pasta & Italian à la carte with a wonderful view Your Delicious Greek Friend El Greco is your friendly neighbourhood Greek restaurant with a twist. Sure we’re a family-run establishment, but we’re not that typical Greek tourist taverna. 1st Floor We pay homage to our classic roots while giving it all a subtle contemporary vibe. We’re not talking about fine-dining or other fancy gimmicks, but honest food made with love and passion to make you happy. Taverna Italian artisan Pizza & a relaxed atmosphere There’s no customers at El Greco – just guests. We welcome you to El Greco like we welcome a guest to our home. A restaurant is just a feeder without hospitality. @vaelsahelsinki To book a table please call us at +358 10 320 4410 or email: varaukset@elgreco.fi We’re open: Mon - Thu 11:00 - 23 Friday 11:00 - 24 Saturday 16 - 24 RESTAURANT EL GRECO Vaelsa Taverna Ristorante Vaelsa www.vaelsa.fi I info@vaelsa.fi +358 9 698 0012 Pohjoisesplanadi 9, Helsinki Ludviginkatu 3-5 00130 Helsinki www.elgreco.fi Discover Helsinki.indd 1 6.5.2019 9.13

Pastor Drink&Dine offers food and cocktails inspired by the Peruvian-Japanese Nikkei cuisine - the Helsinki way. Dining in a casual setting turns into drinks with a DJ playing long into the night on weekends. Book a table or pop by for dinner in the lounge! PASTOR DRINK & DINE Erottajankatu 4, 00120 Helsinki • +358 400 344 700 info@pastorrestaurant.fi • pastorrestaurant.fi

“Georgian House” is the first Georgian restaurant in Helsinki. Tastefully decorated, cozy, and a good quality of home cooked food with a nice background music selection allows you to experience the beauty of Georgia. Georgian House I Hämeentie 62, 00500 Helsinki, I Table Rerservation: www.georgianhouse.fi , Tel. +358 (0) 40 515 8815, info@georgianhouse.fi

T H E R ESTAU RAN T O F T H E Y E A R 2019 CHOS E N BY S U OM E N GASTRONOM IE N S E U RA alahti Harbour. staurant in the Hiet Verna is a floating re where else. nce Helsinki like no Here you will experie e from the very to serve dishes mad Our kitchen is proud on the upper deck gredients. The bar best and freshest in rm sunny day. enjoy drinks on a wa is a perfect place to 11 TH PLACE IN THE LIST OF 50 BEST RESTAURANTS IN FINLAND W E LCO M E O N B OARD! R ESTAU RA NT C HA PT E R OFFE R S N E W TAST I NG E X P E R I E NC ES I NSP I R E D BY LOCA LLY P RODU C E D I NG R E DI E NTS. CHAPTE R’S W INE & COCKTAIL BAR AND FIN E DINING RESTAU RANT IS LOCATE D IN THE HE ART OF HE LS INKI, IN TORIKORTTE LIT. R AV I N T O L A L A I VA RAVINTOLALAIVA VERNA Hietalahdenranta info@ravintolalaivaverna.fi 044 237 4779 www.ravintolalaivaverna.fi A L E KSA N T E RI N K AT U 22 - 0 0 170 H E L S I N K I H E L LO @ CH A PT E R. F I - +358 50 356 4875 WWW.CHAPTER.FI

Yeti Nepal – The Nepalese restaurant at Ruoholahti EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND • EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND • EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND S T E A K  H O U S E S I N C E 1 9 8 6 Welcome to enjoy and feel yourselves comfortable to have an original Nepalese meal in a great atmosphere! YETI NEPAL Nepalese Cuisine Itämerenkatu 12, 00180, Helsinki, Tel/fax 09-6933010 Mon-Fri 10.30-22, Sat 12-22, Sun 12-21 www.yetinepal.fi Restaurant Mount Kailash team is delighted to bring you an eclectic range of authentic Nepali cuisine. Our menu offers you a choice of contemporary Nepalese dining, along with Chicken, Lamb, regional seafood and vegetarian dishes. Moreover, Naan breads and various Tandoor dishes have also been included in our menu. FORUM SHOPPING CENTER Mannerheimintie 20, HELSINKI www.manhattansteakhouse.fi RESTAURANT MOUNT KAILASH Tyynenmerenkatu 5, 00220 Helsinki Email: mountkailash.nepal@gmail.com Table reservations: Tel. +358 44 449 6050 www.mountkailash.fi

FRIDA’s Welcome to Frida’s - Modern Mexican cuisine and mixology Debuting the latest concept from restaurateur Manu Torchio & Carlos Pezzia and the talented team behind the Restaurant Frida’s. Executive Chef presents a modern contemporary Mexican cuisine, rooted in Mexican flavors and traditions that also celebrate local and seasonal ingredients. A vibrant Mexican restaurant and Tequila-Mezcal bar led by the best. Located on the heart of Helsinki. Restaurant embodies the best of contemporary Mexican cuisine, with market-fresh food and authentic flavors paired with truly welcoming hospitality and a great terrace garden bar. Lönnrotinkatu 18, 00101 Helsinki +358 10 209 0470, www.restaurantfridas.com

N IG H T L I F E T E XT BY A R I L AH DE N MÄK I & SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Bars, nightlife and no dress-codes Helsinki has a lively bar culture catering for every taste. The nightlife warms up for the weekend with eager partyers swinging from bar to bar. BARS IN HELSINKI open their doors at 9 a.m. or later; the licensing laws prohibit anything of an alcoholic nature being sold before then, so early liquid breakfasts are out. At the other end of the dial, the latest of the nightclubs serve their last drinks by 4 a.m. If you are out late in Helsinki, particularly at the weekend, you can prepare yourself for some queuing, both to get in for a drink and to secure a taxi-ride home. However, the good news is that Helsinki is nearly free of the sort of places that you find across Europe from Stockholm southwards – the ones that pay strict attention to the attire of their prospective customers. Just as long as you don’t turn up in a jogger’s tracksuit and drip sweat all over the doorman’s shoes, the doors to a Helsinki restaurant will open to you. How long you may have to wait rather depends on the day you choose. Going out is weighted towards the weekends. On Friday and Saturday nights the bars and clubs are jumping, but from Sunday through Tuesday you might wonder how it is possible to operate a capital city with so few people to work with. On Wednesday and Thursday things start warming up again for the weekend. Even at the weekends, the Helsinki locals do not tend to stay long cooling their heels in the same place. The custom is to swing from bar to bar in the course of an evening, and to wind up at a nightclub in the small hours. As Helsinki is a small city, many of the bars are within a walking distance from each other. Here are some of the best places, among them cocktail bars, music venues and some Helsinki specialities. 160 Discover Helsinki

Understated on the surface, Helsinki’s nightlife may surprise first-time visitors with its dynamic energy and range. JUSSI HELLSTÉN / VISIT FINLAND Discover Helsinki 161

N IG HTLI F E Finland is the heavy metal capital of the world, as the saying goes. Cocktails Finns have had a reputation of hard drinking. The nation’s favourite drinks have been beer and vodka, but there is a rapidly growing cocktail culture with a handful of bars that take cocktails seriously. Goldfish (Korkeavuorenkatu 21) is a new and ambitious cocktail bar next door to the Design Museum. Their very creative cocktails are served at the table. Liberty or Death (Erottajankatu 5) is a small and dark bar that serves only cocktails. Their skilled bartenders, dressed in 1920s attire, can create the most amazing drinks for you. The dimly lit tiny bar has an feel of a secretive hideaway to it. Grotesk Bar (Ludviginkatu 10), a few doors away from Liberty or Death, is all about well made cocktails with an easy-to-approach atmosphere. They are also specialists in hand-cut clear ice and they have a thing for gin. Trillby and Chadwick (Katariinankatu) is a bar with first-rate service and great cocktails – and a bit of mystery. It is a “secret” bar that does not reveal even its exact address, although the street it is on is very short. Decorated like an English gentleman’s club, this is a place to sit down and enjoy a top-notch drink. Beer and more beer Finland used to have – basically – one beer. All the breweries used to make the same type of lager with almost no alternatives. Now, luckily, the trend has changed and Finns have a growing interest in beer in its many varieties. There are several new beer-serving bars with a large selection of craft beers. Bier Bier (Erottajankatu 13) aims to make beer-tasting easy. The cosy and dark bar places emphasis on European craft beers. There is also a selection of Finnish beers. Bryggeri Helsinki (Sofiankatu 2) is located conveniently next to the Helsinki Cathedral where the tourist buses stop, so you can refresh 162 Discover Helsinki yourself after a good day’s sightseeing. The brewery restaurant serves also pub food and a la carte dishes. You can watch the brewmaster at work while enjoying your beer. Brewdog (Tarkk’ampujankatu 20) was born when the Scottish Brewdog brewery asked their blog followers where they should open their next bar. The answer was Helsinki and so this bar, with an industrial vibe, was opened. They have 20 taps and feature some of the best Finnish beers alongside their own. Tommyknocker Craft Beer Bar (Iso Roobertinkatu 13) is a small, stylish bar bar named after an American microbrewery. It is the first branded American craft beer bar in Finland. They have an impressive selection of 60+ American craft beers and some of the best Americanstyle Finnish beers. Panema (Helsinginkatu 11), which is located in the trendy Kallio disctrict, is a brewery pub with some 20 craft beers on tap. Helsinki Rock City Finland is the heavy metal capital of the world, as the saying goes, and Helsinki is a rock city with lots of rock bars to keep you rocking all night long. Loose (Annankatu 21) simply reeks of rock-cred. This is where everybody from the local rock scene loves to hang out. The bar has live gigs and hosts popular parties and clubs, and the jukebox carries a broad selection from Iggy Pop (who has actually visited the bar) to Tom Waits, via The Who, James Brown, and local talent. Enough said. Bar Bäkkäri (Pohjoinen Rautatienkatu 21) is a rock bar with some serious attitude. Bäkkäri (“Backstage” in Finnish) has a live music venue upstairs and a bar with a hard rock vibe downstairs. They have lots of rock memorabilia, screens playing music videos and all kinds of theme nights. Located centrally next to the main railway station, On the Rocks (Mikonkatu 15) is a two-story rock bar and live music club with several live music nights every week.

Go out with your friends! Helsinki’s biggest and ballsiest rock-club Tavastia gets the hottest acts that haven’t gone on to the arena circuit, and at the smaller, steamy Semifinal in the same block at Urho Kekkosen katu 4–6 you can catch promising, rising artists and the best names in the underground scene. Outside these rock venues, live music can be heard at Korjaamo Culture Factory (Töölönkatu 51 A–B), a venue for smaller bands from rock to jazzy soul. Kuudes Linja is an underground club (Hämeentie 13) with DJs and live acts playing anything from electronica to reggae. Nosturi (Telakkakatu 8) is operated by the local live music association. The venue has a capacity of 900 and offers a broad variety of music genres from black metal to hip hop. If you would like to catch a glimpse of the metal and rock scene, try the Helsinki Heavy Walk (www.happyguidehelsinki.com), a guided walking tour into the coolest hang-out spots of rockers in Helsinki. VISIT FINLAND WHEN HUNGRY AS THE DEVIL OR THRISTY AS HELL Our kitchen serves you until the end of the night, every day. Dagmarinkatu 2, +358 9 5807 7707, www.manala.fi MON–THU 16–01, FRI 16–02, SAT 14–02, SUN 14–01 @manalabotta Discover Helsinki 163

Cocktail nightclub located in the heart of Helsinki AUTHENTIC APRÈS-SKI ATMOSPHERE Butchers helsinki HEIDISBIERBARHELSINKI BUTCHERSHELSINKI HEIDI’S BIER BAR HELSINKI PATAÄSSÄ Open every day until 05 Snellmaninkatu 13 00170 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 626 076 E-mail: pataassa@sijo.fi www.karaokebar.net Erottaja Night EROTTAJA NIGHT Open every day until 05 Erottajankatu 15-17 00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 611 196 E-mail: erottaja@sijo.fi www.karaokebar.net Beer? – DO YOU LIKE – SO DO WE. ACTUALLY WE LOVE IT. AND THAT IS WHY WE KEEP MORE THAN  150 KINDS OF IT COLD ALL THE TIME. WELCOME. KAUPPARAVINTOLA ÖL UT Fleminginkatu 12, HELSINKI www.kaupparavintola.fi

Hop in the finest tram in Helsinki! The SpåraKOFF pub tram is one of a kind - a historic tram that has been converted into a pub, operating along the main tram routes in Helsinki past the city’s most famous sights. JULIA KIVELÄ / VISIT FINLAND LOOK I NG FO R SO M E TH I NG S PECIA L? …where the hip people are? Siltanen (Hämeentie 13) is a bar/club/restaurant with live music and DJs, a big terrace for sunny summer days and a dance floor for wild partying with cool arty types. …watching a movie while having a drink? Riviera (Harjukatu 2) is movie theatre with a bar, or a bar with an excellent movie screen. They have a short snacks menu and a comprehensive drink list. …great views? A must meeting-point in good weather is up at the Ateljee Bar (Kalevankatu 5). You can find this place by heading for the Sokos Hotel Torni (that’s the building that looks like a mini-skyscraper in the centre of town) and taking the elevator up to the 12th floor and then the tiny spiral staircase up one more level. There’s art on the walls but the main event is outside: the view from here over the city centre is magnificent, and on warm days they open up the rooftop terrace. The Clarion Hotel (Tyynenmerenkatu 2) is one of the tallest buildings in Helsinki, and at the top of one of its towers there is a bar called Skybar that is open to everybody. You can enjoy the astonishing view while having a drink or a small dish. If you feel restless just sitting in one bar, but a pub crawl is too much for you, Spårakoff the pub tram is the answer. You can order a drink and enjoy Helsinki’s best sights for an hour. You can hop on the tram at five marked stops: at the central railway station, Linnanmäki, Opera House and Market Square tram stops. …par tying hard the Finnish way? What happens if you combine Octoberfest and Finnish-style Mayday celebrations? The answer is Rymy-Eetu (Erottajankatu 15-17), which is a bar where singing is not only allowed but encouraged. There are also brass bands and waitresses sporting German milk-maid type clothes. If that’s a bit too much for you, Raffaello (Aleksanterinkatu 46) and its neighbouring bars and restaurants have outdoor tables along the Wanha Kauppakuja courtyard. Known as Mummotunneli, “the Granny Tunnel”, this is a hot party hub for the well-to-do over-30 set. ••• Discover Helsinki 165

Welcome to ALCATRAZ EROTIC POLE DANCE • DJ • VIP-LOUNGE OPEN EVERY DAY 20.00-04.00 Eerikinkatu 3, Helsinki, info@alcatraz.fi

S E LECT ION OF N IG H TCLU BS I N H E LS I N K I KAARLE XII MILLIKLUBI If you are looking for the place to be on The latest R&B and dance hits fill the dance floor a weekday night, Thursdays at Kaarle XII at Milliklubi. The bar’s specialties include Black- are hugely popular year after year. The bar jack and Roulette tables for entertainment. Party APOLLO LIVE CLUB has been on the ‘Best place to party’ top 5 every night 10 pm – 4 am.! Located in a former movie theatre in the heart of the list of the City magazine for nearly 20 years. So many nightclubs, so little time! Here are our top 12 nightclubs to help get your party started when you’re in Helsinki. Kaivokatu 12, city centre city, Apollo is a unique nightclub with live performances and karaoke in the basement on weekend. Kasarmikatu 40, city centre Open: Every day 10 pm – 4 am. During weeknights, you can enjoy a variety of events Open: Thur – Sat 8 pm.–4 am. www.milliklubi.fi such as theatre performances and stand-up comedy. www.kaarle.fi Mannerheimintie 16, city centre KAIVOHUONE Skohan, which opened in 2017, is located in the Open: Fri – Sat 10 pm – 4 am. Located in the Kaivopuisto park, this summer heart of the city opposite the central railway www.apolloliveclub.fi restaurant has seven bars inside and over 400 seats station. This large club (which can accommodate outdoors. Built as a spa in the 1830’s, this grand old a 1,000 party-goers!) has a heated terrace that is lady has recently been restored to its former glory. open all year round. large night club offers club nights and live artists. Iso Puistotie 1, Kaivopuisto Keskuskatu 8, 3rd floor, city centre For those who feel like singing, The Circus features Open from May to August: Wed, Fri, Sat Open: Wed–Sat 10 pm – 4 am. enclosed karaoke cubicles. www.kaivohuone.fi www.skohan.fi Salomonkatu 1–3, Kamppi MAXINE TAVASTIA www.thecircus.fi A dancefloor with an incredible view of Helsinki! Have The most legendary rock music club in Finland. a drink at Maxine’s heated terrace and enjoy a sum- Live gigs and popular Saturday disco. SKOHAN THE CIRCUS Open to the public mainly in the weekends, this CLUB CAPITAL mer night in Helsinki. The club has a lounge area and Enjoy EDM, hiphop and the latest hits at Club Capi- hall and the Happy End karaoke room. Urho Kekkosen katu 6, city centre Open: Open on gig days Sun–Thu 8 pm–1 am, Fri– tal, which boasts the largest dance floor in Helsinki. You can book a table beforehand if you prefer to sit Kamppi Shopping Centre, 6th floor, city centre Sat 8 pm–4 am (unless otherwise indicated) back and enjoy the vibes. Open: Fri – Sun 10 pm – 4 am. Tel. +358 (0)9 774 67 4200 www.maxine.fi www.tavastiaklubi.fi Open: Fri – Sat 10 pm – 4 am. MANALA / BOTTA TEATTERI www.clubcapital.fi Manala Kellari (or ‘Cellar’) is where the dance action Night Club Teatteri is one of the oldest restaurant- is, with a mix of club nights and live performances of nights clubs in Helsinki. Downstairs there is a DTM jazz, disco and more. Find their event program here. restaurant and a lounge-pub, upstairs a night club Dtm is the largest gay night club in Scandinavia. More than a nightclub, Manala doubles as a restau- and a very popular VIP-space. They host parties from club nights to drag shows. rant and pub. At St. Urho’s pub you can find a great Frequented by local celebrities, straight couples and variety of beers. Restaurant Botta’s menu features Pohjoisesplanadi 2, city centre gays alike, this is one of the hottest spots in town for Finnish classics and their kitchen has the longest Club Open: Thur–Sat 10 pm–4 am. the open-minded. opening hours in the city. www.teatteri.fi Mannerheimintie 6 B, city centre Dagmarinkatu 2, city centre Open: Mon–Sun 9 pm – 4 am. Open: Mon – Thur 10:30 am – 2 pm; Fri 10:30 am – Tel. +358 (0)10 841 6969 4 am; Sat 2 pm to 4 am; Sun 2 pm – 2 am. www.dtm.fi www.manala.fi Fredrikinkatu 51, city centre

F I N D OU R B OO K AT T H E FO L LOW I N G E XCLU S I V E H OT E L S : Airport Hotel Pilotti Veromäentie 1 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 329 4800 hotel.pilotti@airporthotelpilotti.fi www.airporthotelpilotti.fi Hilton Helsinki Airport Lentäjänkuja 1 FIN-01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 73220 helsinkivantaa.airport@hilton.com www.hiltonhotels.com Hotel Arthur Vuorikatu 19 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 173 441 reception@hotelarthur.fi www.hotelarthur.fi Hotel Indigo Helsinki – Boulevard Bulevardi 26 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9032 hotel@hotelindigohelsinki.fi helsinki-boulevard.hotelindigo.com Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo Tasetie 8 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 605 flamingo.vantaa@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa Kalastajatorpantie 1 FIN-00330 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 45811 helsinkikalastajatorppa@hilton.com www.hiltonhotels.com Hotel Crowne Plaza Helsinki Mannerheimintie 50 FIN-00260 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 2521 0000 helsinki.cph@restel.fi www.helsinki.fi Hotel Klaus K Bulevardi 2 - 4 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 770 4700 sales@klauskhotel.com www.klauskhotel.com Clarion Hotel Helsinki Tyynenmerenkatu 2 FIN-00220 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 850 3820 cl.helsinki@choice.fi www.nordicchoicehotels.fi/Clarion/Helsinki Holiday Inn Helsinki-Vantaa Airport Rälssitie 2 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 870 900 airport@holidayinnhelsinki.fi www.finland.holidayinn.com Hotel Fabian Fabianinkatu 7 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 9 6824 2820 sales@hotelcfabian.com www.hotelfabian.com Hotel Kämp Pohjoisesplanadi 29 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 576 111 sales@hotelkamp.fi www.hotelkamp.com GLO Hotel Kluuvi Kluuvikatu 4 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4400 kluuvi@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Holiday Inn Helsinki – Expo Messuaukio 1 FIN-00520 Helsinki Tel. +358 (09 150 900 expo@holidayinnhelsinki.fi www.finland.holidayinn.com Hotel Haaga Central Park Nuijamiestentie 10 FIN-00320 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 5807 877 hotel@haaga.fi www.hotelhaaga.fi Hotel Seurahuone Helsinki Kaivokatu 12 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9035 Seurahuone@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.com GLO Hotel Airport Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, Terminal T2 FIN-01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)10 3444 600 airport@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Holiday Inn Helsinki City Centre Elielinaukio 5 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 5425 5000 hihcc@holidayinnhelsinki.fi www.finland.holidayinn.com Hotel Haven Unioninkatu 17 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 9 6824 2840 sales@hotelhaven.fi www.hotelhaven.fi Hämeenkylän Kartano Juustenintie 1 FIN-01630 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)10 540 8350 hameenkylankartano@sodexo.fi www.hameenkylankartano.fi GLO Hotel Art Lönnrotinkatu 29 FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4100 art@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Holiday Inn Helsinki West Ruoholahti Sulhasenkuja 3 FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 4152 1000 hihw@holidayinnhelsinki.fi www.finland.holidayinn.com Hotel Lilla Roberts Pieni Roobertinkatu 1-3 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 9 6824 2860 sales@lillaroberts.com www.lillaroberts.com Hotel Rivoli Jardin Kasarmikatu 40 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 681 500 Info@rivoli.fi www.rivoli.fi GLO Hotel Sello Leppävaarankatu 1 FIN-02600 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4200 sello@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Hotel Anna Annankatu 1 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 616 621 info@hotelanna.fi www.hotelanna.fi Hotel Helka Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 613 580 hello@hotelhelka.fi www.helka.fi Radisson Blu Aleksanteri Hotel Albertinkatu 34 FIN-00180 Helsinki +358 (0)20 123 4643 info.aleksanteri.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi 168 Discover Helsinki

Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel Mikonkatu 23 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 703 info.plaza.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Scandic Kaisaniemi Kaisaniemenkatu 7 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9026 kaisaniemi@scandichotels.fi www.scandichotels.fi Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Yrjönkatu 26 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 604 torni.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Vantaa Hertaksentie 2 FIN-01300 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 618 hotelvantaa.vantaa@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Runeberginkatu 2 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 701 info.royal.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Scandic Kallio Läntinen Brahenkatu 2 FIN-00510 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9036 kallio@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Albert Albertinkatu 30 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 638 albert.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Primehotels Hotel Katajanokka Merikasarminkatu 1 a FI-00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 686 450 sales@hotelkatajanokka.fi www.hotelkatajanokka.fi/en Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Ruoholahdenranta 3 FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 707 info.seaside.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Scandic Marski Mannerheimintie 10 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 68061 marski@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Helsinki Kluuvikatu 8 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 601 hotelhelsinki.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Primehotels Hotel Rantapuisto Furuborginkatu 3 FIN-00980 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 319 1110 sales@rantapuisto.fi www.rantapuisto.fi Scandic Espoo Nihtisillantie 1 FIN-02630 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)9 43 520 espoo@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Scandic Meilahti Tukholmankatu 2 FIN-00250 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9028 meilahti@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Pasila Maistraatinportti 3 FIN-00240 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 613 pasila.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Scandic Grand Marina Katajanokanlaituri 7 FIN-00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 16 661 grandmarina@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Scandic Paasi Paasivuorenkatu 5 B FIN-00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 231 1700 paasi@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Presidentti Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 4 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 608 presidentti.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Scandic Hakaniemi Siltasaarenkatu 14 FIN-00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9034 hakaniemi@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Scandic Park Helsinki Mannerheimintie 46 FIN-00260 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 47 371 parkhelsinki@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden Tapionaukio 3 FIN-02100 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 616 tapiolagarden.espoo@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Silja Line Serenade Symphony Scandic Helsinki Aviacongress Robert Huberin tie 4 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 6899 9031 aviacongress@scandichotels.fi www.scandichotels.fi Scandic Simonkenttä Simonkatu 9 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 68 380 simonkentta@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Vaakuna, Helsinki Asema-aukio 2 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 610 vaakuna.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Moby SPL ALSO AVAILABLE AT: Viking Line M/S Gabriella M/S Mariella Viking XPRS Tallink Superstar Star Eckerö Line M/S Finlandia Discover Helsinki 169

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