T H E WO R L D ’ S L E A D I N G F I N E W I N E M AG A Z I N E S 17 e30 No. THE WINE MAGAZINE 100 Best Champagnes • Ann Colgin • Vega Sicilia 1915–2008 • Cristal Champagne 1953–2009 • FINE Wine 200 Index • Ferrari 1 0 -Y e a r a n n i v e r s a r y i s s u e

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F I N E W N E M A G A Z I N E C O N PAGE 20 FINE Legend PAGE 54 FINE Vintages PAGE 70 FINE Personality PAGE 96 FINE Champagne PAGE 140 FINE Champagne 10 I www.tastingbook.com PAGE 156 FINE Science T E N T

I N E W I N E M A G A Z I N E C O N T E N T FINE Content F PAGE 164 FINE Wine of the Century PAGE 172 FINE Tasting 17 PAGE 178 FINE Investing 19 FineNUIKKI The Inflation of Wine Information 20 FineLEGEND Vega-Sicilia – Wine That Money Can’t Buy 54 70 90 96 140 156 164 PAGE 184 FINE Investing Fineeditorial Fine Ten Years FineVINTAGES Napa Valley 2010 vs 2011 FinePERSONALITY Ann Colgin – From Art to Wine FineGARGETT Fine Wine and Memories FineChampagne The 100 Best Champagnes 2016 FineChampagne Louis Roederer’s Perfectly Cut Cristal FineSCIENCE Bordeaux Wine Vintage Quality and the Weather FineWINE OF THE The Best Australian Wine from century 2000s 172 FineTASTING Bollinger Treasures 178 Fine­INVESTING Decade of Destiny 184 Fine­INVESTING 200 Index 216 FineLIFESTYLE Ferrari PAGE 216 FINE LifeStyle WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 11

F I N E – T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E W r i t e r s FINEMAGAZINES WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen juha.lihtonen@fine-magazines.com Creative Director Senior Editors Photographers Contributors Media Account Manager Translator Financial Manager Price Teemu Timperi Ralf Frentzel, Rajiv Singhal Pekka Nuikki Andreas Larsson, Jan-Erik Paulson, Mario Sculatti, John Kapon, Rajiv Singhal, Ken Gargett, Jeff Leve, Dirk Niepoort, Marie Ahm, Markus del Monego MW, Tuula Hällström, Nora Löfving-Lihtonen, Orley Ashenfelter, David Ashmore, Robert Lalonde Martine Balzani martine.makijarvi@fine-magazines.com AAC GLOBAL Noora Mähönen Single Issue €30 including delivery Single PPDM, Password Protected Digital Magazine, €15 Printing House Queries Publisher pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Fine Publishing Helsinki Ltd Ahti Business Park Ahventie 4 02170 Espoo, Finland www.fine-magazines.com Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki is the founder and Editor in Chief of the FINE-magazines. Pekka is also one of the leading and most productive wine authors in Europe. Several wine themed books of his have been published in recent years, most recently publications in English and German: Drinking History – Stories from Wines, and Vintages 1870–1970, Mouton-Rothschild Art and Wine and “Michelin Guide” of Wine world – 1000 Finest Wines Ever Made, The 100 best Champagnes, The Wines of the Decade and Drinking History part II. Pekka is also the founder of the tastingbook.com, the world’s largest wine information source. He is also a professional photographer and have had numerous solo exhibitions around the world since 1990. Many significant museums and private collectors have his work in their collections. Most recently his wine related work was exhibited at the Bordeaux festival Fête de la Fleur, in Wien at Coburg Palace, in Frankfurt and at Meadowoods in Napa Valley and In New Delhi in India. Pekka lives in Helsinki with his family. Juha Lihtonen Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen is the editor of FINE – The Wine Magazine and its American & Scandinavian editions and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine director of a major cruise line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Essi Avellan MW Essi Avellan is Finland’s first Master of Wine. Recognized as a champagne and sparkling wine specialist, Avellan is the Editor of FINE Champagne Magazine and author of several wine books. She has also recently revised and extended the 3rd edition of Tom Stevenson’s award-winning Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne and Sparkling Wine. For her MW studies she wrote her dissertation on single-vineyard Champagnes and won both the Lily Bollinger Medal for best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award for best overall student. Essi also holds a Master of Science degree in Business Administration. She is a reputed wine judge; in addition to FINE Magazines and The World of Fine Wine tasting panels she had acted as the Chair of Decanter World Wine Awards’ Champagne panel and is a jury member at the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships. She has been awarded the titles Dame-Officier of Ordre de Coteaux de Champagne and Commandeur of Commanderie de Bordeaux. Ken Gargett Ken Gargett first worked as a lawyer, after obtaining degrees in his home town of Brisbane, Australia, and London. He specialised as a banking lawyer, practising in London, Washington DC and Sydney, and then finance, commerce and property back in Queensland. Even though from a family that did not drink, he became obsessed with wine while at university and moved to wine writing as a full time profession nearly twenty years ago. Since that time, he has been a regular contributor to the AGT Wine Magazine for many years. He has also contributed to a number of books, including the Global Encyclopaedia of Wine and his own guide, ”Don’t Buy Wine Without Me”. He won the Vin de Champagne Award back in 1993, and then in 2003 was inducted as a Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. In 2005, he was a recipient of the Len Evans Scholarship and has done extensive show judging in Australia. He was a co-founder of www.spitbucket.com. Outside wine, he also occasionally writes on cigars, fishing, travel and food. Richard Juhlin Richard Juhlin is a world-renowned champagne specialist famous for holding the world record for the number of champagnes tasted. Since 1998 Juhlin has tasted over 8,500 different champagnes. He has also written several books on the subject: Champagneboken in 1995, 2000 Champagnes in 1999, The Great Tasting in 2000, 3000 Champagnes in 2002, 4000 Champagnes in 2004 and Richard Juhlin Champagne Guide in 2008. Beside being an author of champagne books, Juhlin works actively in his champagne club called ‘­The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club’. Stuart George Stuart George is an awarded English freelance wine writer, who is known for his writing for The World of Fine Wine. He studied English and European Literature at the University of Warwick, and has worked as a wine merchant, travelling widely in different wine regions, before turning to wine writing. In his free time Mr. George listens to music, plays the guitar and follows cricket. © Copyright: European Fine Wine Magazine Ltd FINE – The American Wine Magazine ISSN 1799-2222 FINE Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent to us without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Magazines. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 14 www.tastingbook.com Rajiv Singhal Rajiv Singhal is an entrepreneur who pioneered activities in the luxury sector in India. He studied Economics ay Yale, and since then has been simplifying access to the Indian market for international clients. Among other path breaking initiatives, he helped set up the market for wine in India over the last twenty years. Rajiv is the Ambassador of Champagne to India, who loves to challenge himself. Last six years Rajiv has been the Editor of FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine.

the Art of Elegance Palmer & Co. Brut Réserve Alko 938077; 40,00€ www.champagnepalmer.fr

I N E – T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E FINE Editorial F It is March 2007. Tired but proud, I’m raising a glass with Pekka Nuikki and Essi Avellan while looking at our first international wine magazine fresh off the press. The international FINE magazines have been born. They were born out of respect for the people who have sacrificed everything to create and nurture the best wines in the world. They were born out of respect for unique wines that could never have been experienced holistically without knowledge and stories of these wines and their backgrounds. They were born out of respect for moments spent with wine together with family, friends and strangers that we cherished in our memories. By 2007, Pekka, Essi and I had shared many valuable moments with top wines. For each opened bottle, we sought information about the wine, the vintner and vintage, as well as the journey the wine had taken before ending up in our glasses. Although finding this information was often difficult or at least laborious, it was always worth the trouble. The information we found came from wine books and the Internet, and often also directly from the producer. Wine magazines were rarely able to provide information about rare top quality wines. This was one of the reasons for creating the FINE magazines – opening a door into the world of top wines. Another, more challenging reason was to unite wine lovers around the world. Thanks to the fast development of digitalization, the development of the FINE magazines from printed magazines to digital ones has been fascinating. Digital magazines act as interactive entrances into the world of top wines, where the reader can experience the content of the magazines more holistically in an audiovisual and interactive fashion. I’m happy that in our anniversary year, we are able to offer the digital FINE magazines to an even broader audience through the world’s largest wine web site Tastingbook.com. To celebrate our anniversary, FINE magazines participate in organizing The Best Wines of the World, the world’s largest wine contest that will be launched this year at Tastingbook.com. The contest will be organized in collaboration with millions of consumers and thousands the contest will receive this FINE special issue free of charge. We are thankful for the support we have received from around the world over these ten years for all nine FINE publications. To celebrate it, we are publishing this special issue where we also look at the areas of specialty and special subjects of our various publications, such as Fine Champagne Magazine and the wine investing magazine FINEst Wines. > Thank you! Juha Lihtonen Editor TASTE OF FINE of wine professionals. Everyone who voted in WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 17

The World’s Biggest Wine Competition Awards the best wines of the world in 2017 Join in now! www.bestwineoftheworld.com

I N E – T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E The inflation of wine information I was traveling with my friend from San Francisco to the Napa Valley to taste some wines. We talked generally about California and one question we pondered was the population of California. My friend picked up his phone and googled in a few seconds to the United States Census page that said the population at that very moment was 39,250,017 people. On the same site, there was also the population of the whole of the United States and many other facts, such as that a new American is born every eight seconds. I was genuinely impressed by how accurate and up to date the information was. You rarely find an experience that’s comparably positive and confidence-generating when you look for information on the Internet, and in the case of wine information the situation is even rarer. The greatest challenge when looking for information about wines is the enormous amount that is offered. On one hand that’s a strength of the Internet, but also a danger. As the number of producers of information has increased millionfold in comparison to the situation before the Internet, the same thing has happened to information as to any other commodity that is being oversupplied: its value has fallen. Information has suffered from inflation. In the wine world. Traditionally the most important and searched for thing is information about the quality of the wine. Often, it’s presented briefly in numbers or words. I myself have bought numerous books by Parker and Broadbent for the same reason. It has been possible to trust Parker’s 100-point or Broadbent’s five-star reviews because they are based on the writers’ decades of experience and there is always also studied information about the wine itself in conjunction with them. FINE Nu i k k i F Thousands of wine sites bring up just that molehill in the form of simple scoring. I’m personally responsible for one of these thousands of wine information sources – tastingbook.com. It’s the world’s largest in its class at the moment – more than a million pages of wine information. The largest challenge for tastingbook too is to correctness and credibility of the information that is passed on, despite the fact that almost all of our information providers are professionals presenting themselves under their real name. Often, they too are looking for information to support their verdicts from sources that do not check the reliability of the information or its sources, and thus distorted facts can find their way onto the pages of tastingbook. One of our hardest tasks is to prevent the passage of that incorrect and unreliable information. Tastingbook wants to tell consumers reliably and in an up-to-date manner about wines through its thousands of experts, without saving time and trouble. Time, which is wine’s best friend, is the worst enemy of reliable information when it’s missing. Information is in fact enjoyed these days in the same way as most wines – quickly, underripe and undeveloped – without an aftertaste. > * There is only one Château Latour and one Château Pétrus. Nowadays, Parker and Broadbent are less well known by the wider public, but Vivino, on the other hand, isn’t. Incidentally, Vivino is a wine application that’s used by nearly twenty million people, with the figure rising daily. There are also hundreds of other services like Vivino on the Internet. What’s common to all of them is the ‘information’ that is typical of the modern age. Would you trust a site where you can find twenty different kinds of Château Pétrus or Château Latour?* Or would you buy a 99-point wine reviewed by someone calling themselves ‘Little Red Riding Hood’? Even generally, when reading wine reviews, you should think about who has written the review, what the information presented is based on and what they are trying to achieve. After all, media literacy is one of the most important citizen’s skills these days. Understanding information creates significance for things. When there is no desire or patience to deal with even the simplest of wholes, some detail is readily picked up from them and that acquires a disproportionately large importance. Proportions are lost and a molehill becomes a mountain. Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 19

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FINE Legend Text and Photos: Pekka Nuikki WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 21

B odegas Vega Sicilia Unico is still “a prophet in its own land”, Spain, and only a small part of the production leaves the country to be sold abroad. The production of Unico varies from 30 000 to 100 000 bottles depending on the year. The commercial success of Unico is nevertheless decided beforehand regardless of the amount produced, as each vintage is already sold out before the bottling. The list of the privileged subscribers to Unico does not exceed 4000, and they naturally remain anonymous. Pablo Alvarez, manager of Vega Sicilia, is conscientious when it comes to impartiality towards long standing loyal customers, even though the balance between the company’s firm commercial policy and influential quarters outside its customer list is not always easy to maintain. Respecting loyal customers has been a matter of tremendous importance for Bodegas Vega Sicilia throughout its history. When Jesús Anadón was the estate steward the United States’ importer paid a visit and told him that in his faraway homeland the demand was more than 200 000 bottles. As he determinedly insisted that his order be multiplied, the inimitable Jesús stated without blinking an eye that the limit was 500 bottles and no more, and this was his last word. Unico’s desirability and rarity outside Spain have guaranteed a strong increase in price and demand, especially in the United States. Although Unico has a great track record as an investment, the “track record” of quality has been supreme. Is it just coincidence or fate that my first vineyard visit, nearly twenty-five years ago, just happened to be to Vega Sicilia? An estate that does not receive just any guest and, even today, requires those who enter its gates to prove their identity. Back then, the trip to the vineyard took me through the hypnotically flat landscape of the Duero Valley, with only the occasional small village popping up every now and then, before quickly disappearing into the distance as we passed. It’s a different story today: the journey to Vega Sicilia takes us along the same road, but this time the landscape is covered by row after row of grape- 22 www.tastingbook.com vines, stretching as far as the eye can see. The modern main buildings of each vineyard punctuate the green expanses, challenging the traditional perception that tourists have of Spanish wine regions and keeping me alert for the entire trip. It is perhaps this outward appearance that best conveys to an outsider the change which the Spanish wine industry has undergone over the past few decades. Upon reaching Vega Sicilia, the winds of change have calmed and the serenity quietens the arriving visitors. The slow pace of life is further accentuated by the Japanese garden fronting the vineyard’s main building. The soothing babble of the garden’s brook and simple, clean aesthetic of the buildings enhance the visitors’ peace of mind. The garden is a veritable work of art which respects the surrounding environment by expressing the essential. Vega Sicilia’s wines have been made with the same philosophy since the 19th century. A LEGEND IS BORN The origins of the Vega Sicilia estate date back to 1859, when Castilian businessman Don Eloy Lecanda Chaves received two plots – Vega Santa Cecilia and Carrascal – as a gift from his wealthy father. From the very start, he believed in the Tinto Fino, or Tempranillo grapes. In addition to this, he acquired nearly 18 000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir vine cuttings from France’s Bordeaux region. Other varieties, such as Carmenère, Moscatel and Albillo also used to be grown here. In the spirit of the time blends were made at nurseries. The original name of the estate was Bodegas de Leganda. When the Herrero family, a line of prominent bankers, acquired ownership of the estate after Don Eloy declared bankruptcy in 1903, the name was changed to Hijos de Antonio Herrero and then to Vega Sicilia. Herrero’s philosophy did not include the sale of wine: bottles from the first vintages were bestowed upon Spanish royalty and nobility at no charge, with the remainder given to friends and family. This served to create the legend of Spain’s most precious wine, which could only be acquired through friendship. In 1915 the first bottle of Unico saw the light of day, followed that same year by the estate’s “secondary” wine, Valbuena. In the 1920s Vega Sicilia’s wines achieved world renown under the direction of Domingo Garramiola (aka “Txomin”), who was the head of the Herrero winery. It was during that time that Vega Sicilia won a host of international awards.

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FINE Legend Vega Sisilia’s Vineyards WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 25

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Even today, despite the fact that the production of Unico has increased from a few thousand bottles to 50 000–100 000 bottles, depending on the vintage, it is extremely difficult and rare to find a bottle of Unico, particularly outside Spain’s borders. Only 35 per cent of the production volume is earmarked for export. In the 1920s a list, which is still valid today, was created, containing the names of some 4000 lucky FINE Legend “Quality wines must contain all the components and none of its basic elements must override another. It has to be complex and refined. In my opinion, our region produces exactly these kinds of wines. But, as I said before, you can’t do this without a vineyard that gives the wine its personality and structure.” Pablo Alvarez restaurants, merchants and private persons who would receive these wine rarities. Vega Sicilia’s export director, Purificácion Mancebo, explains: “The list is over 80 years old, so there are families on it which have already been receiving their allocation for four generations. The allocation is handed down from generation to generation. The names of those who have not accepted their allocation for two years are removed from the list.” Unico 1962 – perhaps the best wine with which to celebrate your 60th birthday Once upon a time, as I was walking the narrow side streets of Rincon, a seashore town east of Malaga, I spotted a very promising looking wine shop. I had been looking for old Unicos on my previous trips to Spain without success, but once again I decided to try my luck. Inside, I found one Unico 1985 on the shelf, but that was all. I took a little time to look at what other interesting bottles the dusty shelves might hold, and, in a far corner high up on the last shelf, I discovered a small wooden case. On tiptoe I managed to get it down, and as I blew away the dust the text on it revealed: Unico 1962 Magnum – my own birth year. The smile on my face grew even wider as the owner told he had for years assumed the case was empty, and would now happily sell it to me for the original price. The bottle itself was as good as new – as was the buyer. In Spain the climate conditions in 1962 had all the characteristics of a great year: a cold winter and a mild spring with substantial rainfall. During the hot summer there were great thermal fluctuations between day and night, a phenomena which contributes to the mark of a great vintage. The harvest took place under excellent temperature conditions and sunny skies. Because of the excellent climate conditions, the harvesting began at the beginning of October. The result was very good, and it was possible to bottle 87 600 regular bottles and 2000 magnums. “The Unico wine is produced only in exceptional years, that is, in the course of a decade two or three vintages are ‘sacrificed’ in order to maintain the high quality. It is right that the effect of the harvest is present in each wine: the wines of 1981, -74, -75, -66 and -65 are Unicos with aromatical complexity that reaches baroque extremes, and the 1970, -89, -62, -42 and -22 offerings are based on the tannic power reaching to be perpetual wine,” explains Pablo Alvarez when I asked his personal opinion about other vintages that might reach the level of the 1962 vintage. As I turned 40 in 2002 I held a 1962 tasting for my friends. We tasted 26 wines from that year, among them Pétrus, Grange, Latour, Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton. The best wine of the night, with an average of 97 points, turned out to be this very Unico! Let´s see if it is a different story in 2022. It is highly unlikely that this is a common occurrence, as there is a waiting list with some 5000 names on it. The list constitutes 65 per cent of the estates entire customer base and a quarter of the total sales volume. Vega Sicilia’s latest projects – the Alion and Pintia wines – have their own allocation lists. Due to limited availability, it is no wonder that Vega Sicilia wines have such considerable aftermarkets. COMMERCIALISING QUALITY In 1982, when the winery was acquired by the Alvarez family, major investments and the modernisation of its wine production were made in Vega Sicilia. The Alvarez family also questioned the length of maturation times in barrels and bottles, making an effort to shorten them – however, this was done for quality rather than commercial reasons. The head of the family, Pablo Alvarez, is the man who is largely responsible for Vega Sicilia’s current success. He is one of the owners and oversees the estate’s wines. Pablo is a pensive and modest man, whose unassuming way of expressing himself is just as significant as the thing being said. For him, quality and striving to achieve it are essential to the production of wine. Indeed, the inclusion of quality in every aspect of winemaking is sacred to him, as he himself explains: “In my opinion, the philosophy of winemaking and quality are one and the same. But what exactly do we mean when we say quality? In the world of winemaking there are no secrets or magic formulas. As in any profession, you just have to work WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 27

Unico as an investment Regardless of the vintage, Unico has always been an excellent investment, particularly if some effort was expended and the bottle is purchased directly from a small wine shop in Spain. Its desirability and rarity outside Spain have guaranteed a strong increase in price and demand, especially in the United States. Due to its long maturation period at the winery, this wine should not be cellared for much longer, three to five years at the most, in order to maximise the investment. The best way to see a return on the investment is to purchase a vintage immediately upon its release at the right place and then sell it soon after, at a location where it will fetch the highest price. 28 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Legend Price Development Unico 1942 Unico 1953 Unico 1962 Unico 1964 Unico 1968 Unico 1970 Unico 1990 1998 (265€) 1998 (178€) 1998 (123€) 1998 (122€) 1998 (210€) 1998 (163€) 2000 (119€) 2000 (409€) 2000 (221€) 2000 (271€) 2000 (202€) 2000 (327€) 2000 (219€) 2001 (131€) 2002 (589€) 2002 (394€) 2002 (399€) 2002 (341€) 2002 (488€) 2002 (269€) 2002 (144€) 2007 (1003€) 2007 (578€) 2007 (476€) 2007 (398€) 2007 (732€) 2007 (421€) 2007 (200€) 2011 (1380€) 2011 (723€) 2011 (569€) 2011 (521€) 2011 (977€) 2011 (619€) 2011 (298€) 2016 (1530€) 2016 (1126€) 2016 (1260€) 2016 (711€) 2016 (1328€) 2016 (460€) 2016 (375€) A small chapel located in Vega Sicilia’s main building WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 29

to the absolute best of your abilities, which is, of course, easier said than done. In practice it is not a question of having a good site in a prime location or using state-of-the-art wine production equipment – people are also needed in the equation. They not only have to be real professionals – and there are plenty of those to be found – but also something more: they have to be honest and they have to contribute more than just their know-how to the work – they also have to love their work.” Vega Sicilia’s own vineyards are located on the slopes along the right bank of the Duero River, between Valbuena and Quintanilla. It is here that the estate owns 965 hectares of land, approximately 250 of which are covered by vines. “I believe that Vega Sicilia is located in one of the world’s best production regions and that it has truly unique vineyards, which, when you consider the end result, is more important than the production process itself. The climate here is very harsh, almost at the limit of where grapes can generally be grown, and that is why the grapes grown in this area are of such high quality. This comes from all the hard work done on the vineyards year after year. The result is a magnificent grape, which remains virtually unchanged throughout production. The wine must be kept pure and unprocessed – we can do that here. Quality wines must contain all the components and none of its basic elements must override another. It has to be complex and refined. In my opinion, our region produces exactly these kinds of wines. But, as I said before, you can’t do this without a vineyard that gives the wine its personality and structure,” Alvarez says. THE FRUITS OF VEGA SICILIA Vega Sicilia produces three different wines. Unico is the estate’s flagship wine, which has a production of 50 000–100 000 bottles a season. Unico is only produced during excellent years. It is allowed to mature for an exceptionally long time in oak barrels and bottles before being shipped to stores. The process used to take more than ten years, but now it “only” takes ten years (six in oak and four in bottle). For example, the outstanding vintage of 1970 was not released for sale until 1997 and all the Unico magnums with the same vintage, some 2000 bottles, were finally released in 2000, thirty years after the harvest. Best UNICO vintages 1917, 1921, 1929, 1936, 1944, 1949, 1957, 1962, 1964, 1968, 1970, 1975, 1981, 1982, 1985, 1990, 1994, 1998, 2004, 2008. 30 www.tastingbook.com

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32 Winemaking Grape varieties Ageing: Once the process of fermentation has been completed, the wine remains in large-capacity wooden vats for 22 months. It then matures for 22 months in new casks, 28 months in semi-new casks and 24 months in large capacity wooden vats. The remaining time is spent in the bottle until being released. 85% Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) 15% Cabernet Sauvignon (from 1995 vintage) www.tastingbook.com

FINE Legend Weaker vintages of Unico are sacrificed for use in the production of the excellent Valbuena. The production yield of Valbuena 5 ranges between 100 000 and 200 000 bottles. The number 5 in Valbuena’s name indicates the maturation time in the cellar, which is three years in oak vats and barrels and two in bottles. Previously, the repertoire included Valbuena 3, but its production was discontinued after the 1987 vintage. In addition to these wines, Vega Sicilia also produces Unico Reserva Especial. This is the winery’s most expensive and, in their opinion, finest wine. The Unico Reserva does not have a specific vintage; Vega Sicilia has adopted an old Spanish winemaking tradition, where the best old vintages are blended to combine the best characteristics of each, thus resulting in the wonderfully balanced and consistent Reserva Especial – which is arguably the winery’s finest wine. Only the absolute best Unico vintages are used to produce Reserva Especial. The production volume is very small and the price is nearly twice that of the Unico. Puri Mancebo, the export manager of the estate, explains: “The wine vintage concept is itself a newer practice than blending. We produce some 10 000–15 000 bottles of this well-tuned Vega Siciliano-style wine every year, blending both older and newer vintages. Our current blend contains vintages from 1989, 1991 and 1994. Our quality control is very tight in every phase of production; we don’t act on impulse here at the winery. When the Pintia Toro project started in 1995/96, Pablo Alvarez began to buy plots­ (46 hectares of old grapevines, ranging from 25 to 53 years of age) in Toro, wisely neglecting to mention that he was the owner of Vega Sicilia. In 1997 he began researching the output of these plots. It wasn’t until the 2000s that he finally introduced the first official vintage – the 2003.” Vega Sicilia also makes its own barrels, which are used for no more than four years. The amount of French oak used is increasing, and currently accounts for 50 per cent of the wood used. This extremely strict adherence to high quality control standards is also applied to corks. Mancebo mentions that the vineyard had some cork problems in 1994: “After that vintage with the problem corks, we selected 19 suppliers and analysed their corks very closely together with a Bordeaux laboratory. We finally narrowed the field down to two suppliers, whose corks were of a high enough quality to meet our high standards. We still inspect every cork, rejecting about half. We also pay a very high price for them: 1.30 euros per cork.” After the 1994 Valbuena cork taint incident, Pablo Alvarez decided to solve the cork quality problem once and for all by planting 20 000 cork oaks on WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 33

Unico 1922 – the best wine with which to celebrate your 100th birthday I was working as a photographer on a trip to Bilbao, a city whose commercial structure had been successfully changed by the Basques from industry and port trade to tourism, and which was now competing with Madrid and Barcelona for the ever-growing tourist trade. The infrastructure of the city had been improved by the building of a new metro, airport and railway station. Surprisingly, the most important reform for tourism had been the modernisation of the local museum. The timing was most excellent and a true stroke of luck for Bilbao when Guggenheim, which had long been looking for an opportunity to expand in Europe, decided to land in the city. Frank Gehry, an American architect who strongly divided opinions, was chosen to design the museum and his titanium plated Art Museum was both a commercial and visual success. As I packed my photographic equipment into my car, which was in the museum yard, the polymorphic building seemed to change its form and shape in the shadows created by the light of the setting sun. This phenomenon gave no reason for suspicion, for even though the museum had closed its doors an hour ago there were still hundreds of tourists wandering around it. I had just finished a two-day photography session at the museum and was heading for dinner at a restaurant recommended by Frank Gehry himself: Victor Montez at the Plaza Nuevo. Our table reservation was for eight o´clock and I arrived early, contrary to my habit, with my assistant. The lower floor of the restaurant was already packed with people welcoming in the weekend, and we managed to get to the bar counter only with the help of our elbows. On the wall behind the counter was an endless array of hundreds of whisky bottles. Withstanding this impressive scene we ordered Unico 1990 which was available by glass at the bar, and this fact alone raised our expectations of the wine list. This was not in vain, as when the restaurant opened at exactly eight o´clock and we were taken to a charming corner table, there were hundreds of old, patinated best Spanish wines on the shelves of the glass cabinets surrounding us. It felt as if we had walked into a vast, ancient treasure chamber and the feeling was not weakened by the sight of dozens of dusty Vega Sicilia Unicos, the oldest of which were from the beginning of the last century. By now the menu had lost its meaning and it was difficult for us to even concentrate on the biblesized wine list, given the treasures that were demanding our attention. Since the waiter had stood an embarrassingly long time waiting for our wine order I decided to choose as our first wine that which lay closest to me in the cabinet, Unico’s first commercial vintage 1915. The waiter nodded approvingly and I said goodbye to my day’s earnings. After a short while the waiter returned carrying an almost unrecognisable dust covered bottle, and apologetically said that the Unico on the shelf next to me was their only vintage 1915, and that he did not believe it to be drinkable any more due to the storage conditions. Instead, the vintage 1922 was now splendid, according to him, and the dusty bottle he was holding was their last one from this vintage. The next decision was easy. This rare Unico looked very old indeed, but had an admirable top-shoulder level and both original label and capsule. Decanted for 30 minutes. Very dark, with an almost black, deep and healthy looking colour. The bouquet was slightly weak in the attack, but when it gradually opened up during the first 30 minutes in the glass, it was amazingly powerful, sweet, ripe and leathery. No rush! Incredibly youthful and fresh. It had a good structure, sweet fruit and great acidity. The taste was smooth and balanced, which emphasised the harmony between fruit, wood and reduction in the bottle. This 1922 Unico was a round, delicious wine with silky tannins and lovely length. A truly fine wine. 34 www.tastingbook.com

LOOKING FORWARD TO A BRIGHT PAST During the last 50 years time seems to have stood still at Vega Sicilia. It was difficult to see the development, which was constantly advancing the estate’s wine production processes and production equipment, but not anymore. Vega Sicilia has now built a shining new winery to maximize the expression of Vega Sicilia’s different vineyard sites. Construction began in November 2009 and was completed in nine months, just in time for the 2010 harvest. Pablo Alvarez proudly explains: “The new fermenting facility is an important step forward for the quality of our wines, and, without being pretentious, that has always been the main idea behind our work at Vega Sicilia. “We have tried to apply in this new facility all the achievements and mistakes learned in the first 150 years of our history – especially in the vineyards, where, after so many years, we know the characteristics of the grapes in every parcel as well as the diversity of the 19 different types of soils. All these are reflected in the new facility. Although the work took less than a year to complete, it was designed in more than double that time, between 2005 and 2007. Every detail in the process was taken into account: we visited wineries and suppliers, and decisions were made concerning every part of the new building.”   “All of the design was concentrated around one idea: to adapt the vats to each and every parcel, soil and grape variety that we have in Vega Sicilia. This way we can carry out micro vinifications of every characteristic of our wines, we can age them separately and at the moment of the final blend we can select from 40 different lots of wine, allowing us to blend the best quality possible before bottling.”  “The vats can hold 8000 and 6000 kilos, which means going from 23 deposits in the former Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial Traditionally in Spain the few wineries that bottled their wines (most sold their wines from the cask) made two types of wine with each harvest: that of the current year and another wine without a specific harvest, which was called “Reserva Especial”. It was a blend of wines from the best harvests, which came to be the most representative wine of the winery. With Reserva Especial, Vega Sicilia seeks to continue a very old Spanish custom and bring together the balance of different vintages. Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial, released in 1981 – was a blend of the 1960, 1962 and 1968 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1983 – a blend of the 1968, 1970 and 1972 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1984 – a blend of the 1970, 1972 and 1973 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1988 – a blend of the 1960, 1965 and 1972 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1988 – a blend of the 1967, 1965 and 1972 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1990 – a blend of the 1968 and 1970 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1991 – a blend of the 1968, 1970 and 1972 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1992 – a blend of the 1970 and 1972 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1995 – a blend of the 1973 and 1974 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1996 – a blend of the 1973 and 1981 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1997 – a blend of the 1981, 1986 and 1990 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 1998 – a blend of the 1981 and 1990 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 2000 – a blend of the 1981, 1990 and 1994 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 2001 – a blend of the 1990, 1994 and 1995 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 2002 – a blend of the 1985, 1986 and 1990 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 2003 – a blend of the 1985, 1990 and 1991 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 2004 – a blend of the 1985, 1991 and 1996 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserva, released in 2006 – a blend of the 1989, 1990 and 1994 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2007 – a blend of the 1990, 1991 and 1994 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2008 – a blend of the 1990, 1991 and 1996 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2009 – a blend of the 1990, 1994 and 1996 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2010 – a blend of the 1991, 1994 and 1995 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2011 – a blend of the 1991, 1994 and 1998 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2012 – a blend of the 1991, 1994 and 1999 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2013 – a blend of the 1994, 1999 and 2000 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2014 – a blend of the 1994, 1995 and 2000 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2015 – a blend of the 1994, 1996 and 2000 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2016 – a blend of the 1996, 1998 and 2002 vintages Vega Sicilia Especial Reserve, released in 2017 – a blend of the 2003, 2004 and 2006 vintages FINE Legend the estate: two thousand oaks are needed to provide the corks for a year’s worth of production. Due to the region’s widely varying temperatures and cool growing conditions, a cork oak will take ten years to reach production maturity. Alvarez has calculated that he will be able to produce his own corks in 45 years. Talk about longevity! f­ acilities to 75 in the new. Every detail was thought about and then executed. In short, all the investment in the new fermenting facility, which is the third in the history of Vega Sicilia, has been designed with the sole aim of increasing the quality of our wines. Apart from the new fermenting facilities, the cooperage is also new – as are all the agriculture warehouses, winemaking facilities, garages and changing rooms. The total investment was twenty million euros.”  Even though the structure and style of the wine seem to indicate adherence to the decades-old recipe, that recipe is not the same as the one used 50 years ago. Tasting these perfectly elegant and harmonious wines at an oak table in the estate owner’s residence raises questions about the future of the estate. Is there anything more that could possibly be done to improve the quality of these wines? Is it even necessary? After pondering for a moment, Pablo Alvarez answers: “Quality will always come first, both now and in the future. The only way to move forward is to produce vintages, each one better than the next, because that is the very essence of wine – there will never be an absolutely perfect product. However, the quest for that unattainable goal represents our future.” > Bodegas Vega Sicilia S.A. Finca Vega Sicilia Carretera Nacional 122, km 323 47359 Valbuena de Duero Spain Tel. + 34 983 680 147 Fax + 34 983 680 263 vegasicilia@vega-sicilia.com www.vega-sicilia.com WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 35

A Vega Sicilia Time Line 1848 – Acquisition of land The history of this estate began in 1848, when Toribio Lecanda, a landowner of Basque origin, bought a 2000-hectare estate used for agriculture and cattle farming from the Marquis of Valbuena. 1864 – Vega Sicilia founded Eloy, son of Toribio Lecanda, and founder of the Vega Sicilia winery in 1864, bought 18 000 shoots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Noir in Bordeaux, in order to use them in the making of brandy and ratafias. In 1876, at the Philadelphia Fair, Lecanda obtained a quality certificate for his brandies. 1904 – The incorporation of Domingo Garramiola With the estate having been acquired by the Herrero family, it is then rented to Cosme Palacio, who creates the winery with the help of enologist Domingo Garramiola, a person who is crucial to the history of Vega Sicilia. 1915 – The birth of Unico 1915 was the birth year of two new wines: Vega Sicilia Unico and Valbuena. These wines followed along the lines of the Rioja wines of the day: lengthy ageing in vats and wooden casks and bottled to order. The distribution of these first bottles began among the upper class bourgeoisie and the aristocracy, but none were available for commercial purposes. Thus began the forging of the legend of Spain’s most exclusive wine, as it cannot be bought with money – only with friendship. 1929 – A Prize at the World Fair The wines of Vega Sicilia first gained real public recognition thanks to prizes awarded at, among others, the World Fair in Barcelona in 1929. On this occasion, accolades were bestowed on the 1917 and 1918 vintages. 1933 – The Death of Domingo Garramiola Domingo Garramiola died in 1933. The ­responsibility of continuing with his work fell on his closest collaborator, Martiniano Renedo. 1956 – The arrival of Jesús Anadón Jesús Anadón joined the wineries in 1956. He was to be director of the company for several decades. 1982 – The Alvarez family acquires Bodegas Vega Sicilia The current stage began in 1982, when David Alvarez acquired the winery and the vineyards from the Venezuelan businessman Miguel Neumann. 36 www.tastingbook.com

1985 – The retirement of Jesús Anadón The retirement of Jesús Anadón meant the leaving of a man who carried out his responsibilities as director and oenologist of Vega Sicilia in a highly personal way. Upon his departure, Pablo Alvarez took full possession of the general management of the winery; the oenology area was taken on by Mariano García, who had been Jesús Anadón’s assistant since joining the company in 1968. FINE Legend A Vega Sicilia Time Line 1991 – The creation of Bodegas Alión Alión winery was born on the 5th of November 1991. This is a name laden with emotion, as it corresponds to the town of León in which the family patriarch, David Alvarez, was born. 1993 – The Alvarez family arrives in Hungary Tokaj Oremus is founded by Vega Sicilia. 1997 – The purchase and constitution of Bodegas Pintia Bodegas Alquiriz is the new project that has been designed to promote Vega Sicilia. The desire of the Alvarez family is to make the best Toro wine. In order to do this, 70 hectares of vineyard have been bought in different places since the harvest of 1997 within the Designation of Origin. In 2001, after four years of studying the concept of the wine, it was made for commercial purposes for the very first time. 1998 – The consolidation of a team of expert oenologists 1998 saw the incorporation of Xavier Ausás into the technical management of the winery group after six years working as an oenologist in Vega Sicilia. Xavier, together with his sister Mercedes and Begoña Jovellar, is considered to be the father, master and educator of the company ‘s wines. 2000 – Primum Familiae Vini and Vega Sicilia Primum Familiae Vini is an organisation formed by the twelve family-run wineries of the highest international prestige, and which includes Vega Sicilia. The year 2000 was also the year which saw the end of the renovation and modernisation process of the winery. 2001 – Pintia was created in the Toro region further down the Duero River. The Álvarez family’s latest project on the banks of the Duero River has enabled the family to broaden the horizon of its wine-making project. 2013 – A launch of a new winery project in Spain. Pablo Alvarez launches a new joint venture winery with Baron Benjamin de Rothschild in Rioja. A 26-million euro winery is named Macán – in Rioja. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 37

38 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Legend THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 Bottle condition A1: Bordeaux bottle:Wine level by the neck Burgundy bottle: No ullage Influence on the price of the wine: Full price A2: Bordeaux bottle:Wine level bottom neck Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 1cm–2cm Influence on the price of the wine: Full price A4: Bordeaux bottle:Wine level upper shoulder Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 4cm–6cm Influence on the price of the wine: 20–25% 93p 1915 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €2620 A2 Dark, intense, brownish Sweet, open and sound – chocolate, spicy, toasted, mature Palate: Medium-bodied, intense, well- balanced, soft, elegant, harmonious Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Long and silky The beginning of the legend A wine that money can’t buy 3 times, last in 10/2011 30 minutes 1 hour Now No food, please Very low After the Rioja vineyards had recovered from Phylloxera in 1915, the winemaker of Vega Sicilia, Domingo Garramiola, made his first estate bottled wine – first vintage of Unico saw the daylight. Or try this: Bodegas La Rioja Alta 890 1890 Final verdict: There is always something magical when you taste the birth vintage of a great wine – this was no exception. A3: Bordeaux bottle:Wine level top shoulder Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 2cm–4cm Influence on the price of the wine: 10–15% A5: Bordeaux bottle:Wine level mid-shoulder or lower Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 6cm–9cm Influence on the price of the wine: 30–50% 98p 1917 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €2630 A3 Dark, brick-red with orange hue Expressive, intense, leather, spices and old wood Palate: Sophisticated, medium-bodied, elegant, velvety structure, very complex, flavorful, vanilla, cocoa, tobacco, caramel, touch of wood Finish: Multilayered, vivid, lingering In a nutshell: A wine like the Chesterfield vintage couch Buy or not: Absolutely yes, if only you are able to find one Tasted: 3 times, last in 10/2011 Decanting time: 10 minutes Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: The best Pata Negra available Fake factor: Very low Inside information: There is a nice story attached to this particular bottle of Unico 1917. The grandfather of the current owner of a famous Bilbao restaurant was well acquainted with the previous owner of Vega Sicilia, but at that time, in the 1920s, his establishment was not an upper scale restaurant where fine and expensive wines like Vega Sicilia could be sold. The owner of Vega Sicilia, said that as they were friends, he would allocate three bottles of Unico every year to the restaurateur: one bottle that they would drink together, one that the restaurateur could drink when he wanted and the last one he should be kept for his grandchildren. Hopefully this bottle was the one he forgot to drink by himself. Or try this: 1917 Bugatti Type 16 Final verdict: The best Unico produced before the 1960s WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 39

94p 1918 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €2309 A1 Medium intense, tile-red Pronounced and complex – roasted coffee, seductive, toasted, evolved 94p 1921 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, mouth- watering acidity, mellow tannins, low fruit intensity Finish: Long and intense In a nutshell: Stunningly good Buy or not: Absolutely, if only you just can find one Tasted: 2 times, last in 1/2011 Decanting time: 30 minutes Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: Lamb casserole Fake factor: Moderately low Inside information: The 1918 Unico was awarded at the 1929 Universal Exhibition in Barcelona. €2650 A2 light, pale, brownish Wide, mature, ripe, leathery, sweet, focused, coffee, chocolate, tropical fruits Palate: Round, elegant, silky, intense, balanced, firm, silky tannins Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Gentle, silky, warm, medium long A gentle angel Too expensive 2 times, last in 2016 30 minutes 30 min Now Enjoy without food None Château Margaux 1921 Sophisticated Princes Or try this: 1900 Château Mouton-Rothschild Final verdict: Bordeaux meets its match THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 94p 1922 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1816 A3 Dark, healthy, promising Open, exotic, ripe, leathery, sweet, intense, coffee, toffee, plum, dried fruit 94p 1924 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Palate: Fresh, fruity, full, intense, balanced, rich, powerful, well-polished tannins Finish: Round, silky, warm, long In a nutshell: No signs of old age Buy or not: Perhaps the best wine from the difficult 1922 vintage you can buy Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: 3 times, last in 2010 30 minutes 1 hour Now Rabbit ragout with truffle flavored Pappardelle pasta Fake factor: None Inside information: A very good year in Spain – the rest of the world is undrinkable Or try this: Castillo Ygay 1917 Final verdict: A truly fine wine in excellent condition 40 www.tastingbook.com €2390 A2 Dark, bright, deep Tight, refined, ripe, seductive Elegant, complex, full, balanced, rich, powerful, drying tannins, smoky, nutty, dried-fruits, aromatic Finish: Long, lingering In a nutshell: Intelligent Buy or not: Only if you have tasted all the younger Unicos – quite expensive Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 2 times, last in 2016 30 minutes 1 hour Now Lamb Loin with Carrot Risotto None Latour 1924 Opens slowly but worth to wait

1929 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1955 A2 Dark, deep, mystique, healthy Vigor, fresh, attempting, seductive, meaty, coffee, cigar, pistachio, mocha, plum 94p 1936 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1352 A1 Almost black, deep, sound Clean, pure, generous, expressive, dried fig and apricot, cocoa, white truffles, burnt sugar, eucalyptus Palate: Crispy, wide, rich, ripe, multi-layered, Palate: Well-balanced, assertive, full, intense, Finish: Medium-long, pure, complex, round, Finish: Round, ”biting”, extensive In a nutshell: Refined and hearty wine Buy or not: Yes, if possible Tasted: 7 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: Food for thought Fake factor: None Inside information: Undoubtedly the rarest and one of the well-balanced, distinctive warming In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Lots of content Yes, with pleasure 5 times, last in 10/2016 1 hour 2 hours Now Fried rump steak served with rustic potatoes Fake factor: None Inside information: The name Vega Sicilia first appeared in a document from 1601 in the form of “Pagos de Vega Sicilia y Carrascal”, which means vineyard sites on the slopes of Santa Cecilia. Or try this: Haut-Brion 1929 Final verdict: Great, long lasting vintage FINE Legend 95p gentle, multi-dimensional, peaceful best Unicos of the 1930s. While the grapes of this noble wine were ripening under the burning sun, on the hills of the Duero river, the youngest general of Spain, Francisco Franco, was planning a bloody coup d’état, which would lead the country into a civil war. Or try this: Château Pétrus 1937 Final verdict: Michael Bettane, who we had dinner with, said that the Unico 1936 was divinely delicate but had fire in its soul - how right he was. 97p 1941 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1390 A1 (re-corked at the winery) Dark, brownish, clean Ripe, opulent, expressive, eucalyptus, peppermint, coffee, mocha, dried fruits, refined woodiness Palate: Intense, creamy, concentrated, fresh acidity, balanced, sensitive, rich, fragrance Finish: Fragile, silky, lingering, long In a nutshell: A touching presence Buy or not: Yes, but rare and expensive Tasted: 4 times, last in 10/2011 Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: Book of Winston Churchill’s war years Fake factor: None Inside information: The best Vega Sicilia vintage of 1940s. Production is only around 14 000 bottles. Or try this: Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1941 Final verdict: A super wine by any standard 93p 1942 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1530 A1 (came directly from the Bodegas) Fine, tawny, clear, deep Sound, open, full of fruit, perfumed, vanilla, aromatic, meaty, capsicum Palate: Broad, stylish, complex, firm structure, fresh, full-bodied, ample Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Very long, full, youthful No signs of old age Yes, if you turn 80 in 2022 7 times, last in 10/2016 1 hour 1 hour Now Roasted rack of lamb with Manchego potato pure Fake factor: None Inside information: Only 12 150 bottles were produced, using 75% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. The phases in the typical maturation process of the wines in this period included time in large wooden wine vats, followed by a period in 700-liter wooden tanks and then finished off in used casks. In exceptional cases, new casks may have been used to coincide with the replacement of the old casks. Or try this: Inglenook 1942 Final verdict: Wine which flirts with perfection WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 41

90p 1944 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €3180 A2 Garnet, brownish, sound Open, candy-like, spicy, earthy, port-like 91p Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Ample, balanced, medium-full, fine- the price Tasted: 5 times, last in 2014 Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: Vitello Tonnato Fake factor: None Inside information: The Ribera del Duero has a continental-type climate with an Atlantic influence. Rainfall is low, with annual averages below 500 mm, and is concentrated mostly in spring and autumn. Sunshine, which is highly extensive and abundant, reaches an annual average of 2200 hours, and the River Duero favours the morning mists and fogs that provide an additional source of humidity. €1060 A1 Intense, brick-red, bright Wide, pure, dark cherries, leather, nutty, toasty, sweet, vanilla, plum Palate: Concentrated, balanced, intense, grained tannin, a bit narrow, ripe Finish: Spicy, medium-long, warming In a nutshell: Not as great as we expected Buy or not: No, buy instead 1941 or 1942 at half 1947 Vega Sicilia Unico smooth tannins, lively acidity, good fruit Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: A silky, herbaceous, complex A peculiar wine Yes, but very hard to find 10 times, last in 2014 30 minutes 1 hour Now Pan-fried rump steak with green pepper sauce None Very low production – just over 13 000 bottles CVNE Viña Real Gran Reserva 1947 A fascinating vintage – in Bordeaux Or try this: Biondi-Santi Riserva 1945 Final verdict: Getting too pricey THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 90p 1949 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1350 A2 Dark, bright, healthy Open, pure, sound, intense, leathery, cocoa beans, vanilla, toffee Palate: Soft, evolved, balanced, medium- bodied, aromatic, medium-intense, warm, a bit tannic Finish: Plain, alcoholic, medium-length In a nutshell: Decent wine Buy or not: Don’t bother – impossible to find Tasted: 7 times, last in 2011 Decanting time: 45 minutes Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: Grilled filet of venison Fake factor: None Inside information: Super low production – just over 2000 bottles made Or try this: Mouton-Rothschild 1949 Final verdict: One of the rarest, but not the dearest, Unicos 42 www.tastingbook.com 88p 1951 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: €1190 A2 Dark, amber, mature Scented, volatile, cedar wood, earth Medium-bodied, sweet, smooth, fresh Short, aromatic, gentle Restrained No 2 times, last in 10/2016 45 min 45 min 1961 Roasted Garlic with Grass Fed Beef Sliders. Fake factor: None Inside information: One of the worst wine vintage in 1900 century, but not in Spain Or try this: Vina Real 1951 Final verdict: A very fine effort, but still lacks lots of qualities to be recognized as great!

1953 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1126 A2 Dark, deep, mature, healthy Reserved, weak, earthy, walnuts, leathery, aromatic, cedar Palate: Medium-bodied, elegant, cool, a bit 91p 1955 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: dry, velvety, rich, balanced Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Vital, smooth, long Good spirit This is a solid buy 15 times, last in 10 /2016 1.5 hours 1 hour Now to 2025 Venison, served with dark chocolate flavored demi-glace and aged Gouda. Fake factor: Neither seen or heard of Inside information: A low production year – just over 32 000 bottles. Tempranillo 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 5%. Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: €940 A1 Healthy, intense, brick-red Open, evolved, toasty, earthy, coffee Medium-bodied, a bit reserved but with decent balance, low in acidity, sweet red fruits, peppery FINE Legend 93p Round, robust It should be better With 1000 euros you can do better 6 times, last in 10/2016 45 minutes 1 hour Now to 2025 Garlic roasted Pork None 1955 Haut-Brion Graceful but not tasteful Or try this: Mouton-Rothschild 1949 Final verdict: Still A trustworthy choice for the 70year birthday party in 2023, but not in 2033. 94p 1957 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €662 A2 Moderately deep, brick-red Medium-strong, evolved, leathery, ripe strawberries, floral, toasty, esters, tobacco Palate: Refined, medium-bodied structure with satiny tannins, vivid acidity, ripe red fruits, spicy, leathery Finish: Complex, energetic and lively In a nutshell: A surprisingly energetic and seductive style for Unico Buy or not: Yes! Do not think twice Tasted: 5 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 45 minutes Glass time: 45 minutes When to drink: Now–2025 Food pairing: None Fake factor: Neither seen or heard of Inside information: The 1957 Unico, made from 80% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, was commercialized during the seventies in 25 500 Bordeaux bottles. This was the first great wine created by Vega Sicilia’s new director and enologist Jesús Antadón, who revived the esteemed reputation of the famous estate during his long career, which ran from 1956 to 1985. Or try this: DRC La Tâche 1957 Final verdict: Perhaps the world’s best wine from 93p 1960 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €455 A2 Medium-deep, brick-red Rich and open, nutty, leathery, earthy with prune aromas Palate: Pronounced, rich, medium-bodied, supple tannins, vivid acidity, sweet dried fruits Finish: Moderately long, round with tobacco and dried fig flavors In a nutshell: Round and earthy style Buy or not: Yes, if you want to have a still wine from 1960 Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: 7 times, last in 2011 30 minutes 45 minutes Now–2015 Grilled pork ribs with grilled bell peppers Fake factor: None Inside information: Decent production numbers of 61 000 bottles. This was also the first vintage Vega Sicilia officially bottled magnums. Or try this: Penfolds Grange 1960 Final verdict: Not the fanciest Unico, but another great example how good Unicos are, even in off-vintages this vintage WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 43

97p 1962 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1260 A1 Dark, almost black, deep, promising Classic, sound, open, vivid, cherries, blackberries, vanilla, cedar, wood 97p Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Well-balanced, multi-layered, complex, intense, youthful, smooth, perfect Finish: Very long, persistence, flavorful, elegant, intense In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Damn good Absolutely yes. 19 times, last in 10/2016 1 hours 2 hours Now to 2030 Chateaubriand with roasted root vegetables and rosemary potatoes Fake factor: None so far Inside information: In Spain the climate conditions in 1962 had all the characteristics of a great year: a cold winter and a mild spring. During the hot summer there were great thermal fluctuations between day and night, a phenomena, which contributes to the mark of a great vintage. The harvest took place under excellent temperature conditions and sunny skies. Because of the excellent climate conditions the harvesting began at the beginning of October. The result was very good, and it was possible to bottle 87 600 bordelaise bottles and 2200 magnums. 1964 Vega Sicilia Unico €711 A1 Dark, healthy, bright Intense, open, wide, tar, roses, defined, earthy tones, cherries Palate: Perfect balance, opulent, tender fresh acidity, mellow, velvety, elegant, exotic Finish: Extensive broad, seductive In a nutshell: Knock-out Unico Buy or not: Good value Tasted: 6 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 1 hours Glass time: 1 hours When to drink: Now to 2030 Food pairing: Anything grilled Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia released the 1964 vintage between the years 1976 and 1983. Production: 96.000 75cl bottles. Tempranillo 65%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 15% Or try this: Chave Hermitage 1964 Final verdict: A strong wine with admirably finesse Or try this: Hermitage La Chapelle 1962 Final verdict: An absolutely brilliant and royal wine. THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 95p 1965 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €529 A1 Brilliant, fairly deep, bright, youthful Sweet, open, rich, truffles, cedar, smokiness, glyceride Palate: Medium-bodied, intense mount feel, juicy acidity, smooth, energetic Finish: Beautiful, silky, sensitive In a nutshell: This is certainly the best red wine of all made in 1965. Buy or not: Super good price-quality ratio Buy or not: Absolutely yes. Tasted: 9 times, last in 2016 Decanting time: 1 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2020 Food pairing: Rabbit ragôut with fried rice Fake factor: Not today, not tomorrow Inside information: A fairly difficult year in Spain, particularly in Rioja, with heavy rain during the harvest. In Ribera del Duero the winter was relatively cold and rainy, holding the vines back a few weeks. But May and April were warm, and were followed by a successful early flowering and an almost ideal warm and long summer. After a hot and waterless summer some welcome rain arrived in late September. In Bodegas Vega Sicilia the harvest started at the beginning of October in dry and warm conditions. The quantity was high for this vintage and the total production of Unico was 91 000 Bordeaux bottles and 2000 magnums. The 1965 Unico was made from Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) 75%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% and Merlot 5%, and was commercialized from 1984 to 1987. Or try this: 1965 Mustang Cabriolet Final verdict: Difficult to find fault 44 www.tastingbook.com 94p 1966 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €690 A1 Dark, brick red, promising Wide, forward, refined, youthful, tropical fruits, forest floor, pepper, plum, nutty, smoky Palate: Focused, succulent, velvety, well- balanced, multi-layered structure, mature Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Thrilling, pure, long A basic Unico Yes, naturally 5 times, last in 10/2016 2 hours 1 hour Now to 2025 Grilled Lamb with Cucumber Salad None Heitz Martha’s Vineyard 1966 Solid and dependable as a middleaged secretary

1968 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €1328 A1 Intense, red cherry, deep Open, wide, refined, spicy, dry fruit, aromatic, tobacco, dark chocolate 95p Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: balanced, vigor, sweet tannins Forceful, very long, flavorful Still a sensation Very drinkable today – find and buy it 9 times, last in 2015 1.5 hours 2 hours Now to 2030 Fried duck breast served with light Hoisin sauce and polenta Inside information: This vintage spent the first year in concrete tanks, after it was placed in large French oak vats over 5 years. The wine remained in used barrels for 8 years before bottling. The 1968 was an average production year – just over 45 300 bottles and 2000 magnums. Grape varieties: Tempranillo 70%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 10%. Or try this: Sassicaia 1968 Final verdict: This is what 007 should be drinking 92p 1972 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €389 A1 Quite intense, brick-red Complex, evolved, toasty, earthy, smoky Palate: Medium-bodied, a bit reserved but with lovely balance, lively acidity, sweet red fruits, spicy Finish: Balanced, long and gently robust In a nutshell: Blue-blooded Unico Buy or not: Yes, it is hard to find a better wine from the 1972 vintage Tasted: 5 times, last in 2015 Decanting time: 30 minutes Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now to 2015 Food pairing: Aged Manchego cheese Fake factor: None Inside information: During this era Ribera del Duero started to raise its head as a wine production region, and by the mid 1970s Vega Sicilia was accompanied by 30 other wine producers in the region. Production: 65 000 bottles A1 Good, healthy, youthful Full, wide, complex, delicate, coffee, walnut, tobacco, syrup, wood flavor sophisticated In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: It was worth the long wait Very good price-quality ratio 9 times, last in 2017 1.5 hours 2 hours Now to 2030 Jabugo Pata Negra with aged manchego and onions. Fake factor: Because of Parker’s very high points Fake factor: Because of Parker’s very high points there is a chance of faulty bottles €811 Palate: Powerful, youthful, warm, intense Finish: Very long, flavorful, multi-layered, Palate: Full-bodied, ripe, wild, complex, wellFinish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: 1970 Vega Sicilia Unico FINE Legend 98p there is a chance of faulty bottles Inside information: The year started with very cold weather and high rainfall. There was no spring frost and the summer was hot and wet with considerable variations in temperature from night to day. Autumn was mild and an early harvest took place under decent weather conditions. The crop was small, but the quality was superb. This Unico was commercialized in 75cl size (94 500 bottles) between 1995 and 1997, inclusive. In magnum size (2 000 bottles), it happened as late as in 2000. The 1970 Unico is a blend of 70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Or try this: Château Latour 1970 Final verdict: Magnums are even better 92p 1973 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €460 A1 Deep, dark, healthy Pure, elegant, truffles, vanilla, smokiness, exotic spises Palate: Medium-bodied, good balance, sweet, voluptuous, stylish Finish: Pampering, sensitive In a nutshell: Can´t get much better wine from 1973 vintage Buy or not: Absolutely yes, especially if your birth year is 1973 Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 5 times, last in 2016 1 hours 1 hours Now to 2025 Oven baked Pigeon with crepe risotto Not today, not tomorrow 1973 Penfolds Grange Less scare, more flair Or try this: 1972 Sassicaia Final verdict: One of the few wines from vintage 1972 which are really good. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 45

94p 1974 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €592 A1 Bright, intense, deep Youthful, open, mint, tobacco, dark berries, leather 95p Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Well balanced, rich, ripe tannins, complex, opulent Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 1975 Vega Sicilia Unico The second priciest 1974 wine 6 times, last in 8/2015 1.5 hours 1 hours Now to 2030 Beef Bourguignon Not really Heitz Martha’s Vineyard 1974 One of the best 1974’ s ever made A1 Ruby-red-brick, full, deep, promising Accessible, forward, refined, youthful, dried apricot, forest floor, white pepper, plum, fruit-driven, nutty Palate: Distinctive, focused, rich, juicy, velvety, powerful, well-balanced, multi-layered structure Long, delicate, vibrant Excellent ripe Unico €521 Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Flavorful, pure, long, elegant Guilty on all charges Yes, you should 4 times, last in 8/2015 2 hours 1 hour Now to 2025 Roasted pigeon wrapped in bacon and served with olive and ricotta-filled raviolis. Fake factor: None Inside information: The 1975 vintage was released in 75 cl bottles in 1990 and 1999. In Magnum size it was commercialized in 1994. After fermentation, it spent 24 months in large capacity wooden vats. It was aged for 24 months in butyric-fermented casks, sat in the and spent a further 6 years in semi-used and used casks. The rest in the bottle until commercialization. Only 44 750 Bordeaux bottles and 2 000 Magnum were produced. Or try this: Château Trotanoy 1975 Final verdict: Doomed without drinking 94p 1976 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 46 www.tastingbook.com €376 A1 Bright, fairly deep, youthful Toasty, sweet fruit, wide, seductive Medium-bodied, lush, fine-grained tannins, aromatic, fine acidity Good length, balanced One of our favorite “every day” Unico Great value for Unico 4 times, last in 2015 92p 1980 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Now to 2025 Grilled rack of lamb Never seen one 1976 Dom Pérignon As good as any 1976 red wine could be! A1 Deep, ruby, youthful At first closed, needs 45 minutes to open, tar, smoke, lead pencil Palate: Medium-bodied, supple texture, opulent fruit, nicely balanced Finish: Moderate length, glycerin, alcohol In a nutshell: A forgotten vintage? Buy or not: There are not many better wines available from 1980 that are the same price level and more drinkable today. 1 hours 1 hours €400 Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: 6 times, last in 8/2016 2 hours 1 hour 2025–2030 Braised veal with creamy truffle potatoes Fake factor: None Or try this: Caymus Special Selection 1980 Final verdict: A little sister of great 1982

1982 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €511 A1 Dark, dense, clean Impressive, open, wide, perfumed, milk chocolate, defined, earthy tones, cedar, cocoa 95p 1985 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Vigor, creamy, fresh acidity, mellow, well-balanced, velvety, elegant, full In a nutshell: Mouth filling Buy or not: Great value Tasted: 6 times, last in 2016 Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Grilled lamb chops Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia released both the 1968 and 1982 vintages at the same time in 1991, after 23 and 9 years ageing. The wine remained in 20 000-litre wooden tanks for one year, 8 months in new casks of French oak, 4 years in semi-old and old ones and the rest in bottles until being released. Production: 81 500 75cl bottles and 2 000 magnums. Tempranillo 65%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 15%. Or try this: Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1982 Final verdict: A bull with soul A1 Medium-intense, ruby Charming, intense, complex, blackcurrant, tobacco, white chocolate, farmyard aromas, dark fruits Palate: Medium-bodied, good balance, elegant, moderate acidity, supple tannins, polished Finish: Lovely weight, broad, meaty, extensive €312 FINE Legend 96p Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Refined, lingering, long So elegant Great value 13 times, last in 2016 1 hour 1 hours Now Fried duck breast served with light Hoisin sauce and polenta Fake factor: None Inside information: After fermentation, it spent 12 months in large capacity wooden vats. It was aged for 8 months in new casks, 24 months in semi-used casks and 26 in used casks. The rest in the bottle until commercialization in 1996. Tempranillo 70%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 10%. Production: 60 750 75cl bottles and 2 000 magnums. Or try this: Château Palmer 1985 Final verdict: Ready to drink, although they released the Double Magnums just a few years ago. THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 96p 1986 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: €320 A1 Opaque garnet, bright Intense, Opulent, Generous Well-balanced, round, intense, black fruit, smooth tannins, glycerine, complex, full Finish: Long, supple and vivid In a nutshell: Round and opulent wine Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 7 times, last in 2016 Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Roasted venison with grilled beet root Fake factor: None Inside information: After alcoholic fermentation in large wooden vats for 12 months. The following 12 months, in new and semi-new casks. It spent 5 years more in used casks. The rest in the bottle until commercialization in March 1998. This wine was sold in 75 cl bottles from 1998. Magnum size to be sold in 2003, and in 2004 for the Double Magnum size. Or try this: Château Margaux 1986 Final verdict: A wine of the vintage in Spain 91p 1987 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €221 A1 Ruby, intense, brilliant Elegant, volatile, discreet, coffee, dark fruit, menthol Palate: Medium-bodied, gentle, smooth, medium-intense, complex Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Moderate, silky, peaceful Feminine Yes! 14 times, last in 2010 1.5 hour 2 hours Now to 2025 Lamb fillet with garlic potatos and green peas Fake factor: None Inside information: Once the fermentation process had finished, it remained in large-capacity wooden vats for 2 years. It was matured for 16 months in new casks, 2 years in semi-new casks, 3 in used casks, and finally a further 3 years in large-capacity wooden vats. The remaining time was spent in the bottle until its distribution. Grape varieties: Tempranillo 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 10%. Production: 79 500 75cl bottles, 2 050 magnums and 115 double magnums Or try this: Château L’Evangile 1988 Final verdict: Bargain alternative WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 47

THE BEST VEGA SICILA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 90p 92p 1989 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €312 1990 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: A1 Bright, ruby, intense Exotic, elegant, open, fresh, balsamic, black ripe fruits, cherry, fig Palate: Powerful, tannic, persistent, vivid of bite that are the same price and more drinkable today. Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: next 10–15 years. Deep ruby, dark, healthy Pure, elegant, stylish, leather, smoked meat, sweet vanilla, exotic spices Palate: Full-bodied, good balance and density, elegant, moderate acidity, supple tannins, polished Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Silky, elegancy, long, balanced Elegance as opposed to power Great value 15 times, last in 10/2016 2 hour 1 hours Now to 2030 Fried duck breast None Pesquera Janus Reserva 1991 Lovely to drink today 3 hours 2 hours 2025–2030 Pan-fried Beef Sirloin with garlic potatoes and stainless steel vats, malolactic fermentation takes place in large 18 000 to 20 000-litre wooden vats over 2 years, followed by 18 months in new casks and 48 months in used casks. The rest sat in the bottle until commercialization in the years 2 000 and 2001. Production: 109 548 Bordeaux bottles, 2 653 Magnum and 150 Double magnum. Or try this: CVNE Imperial 1989 Final verdict: Promising, but will evolve during the A1 6 times, last in 2015 Fake factor: None Inside information: After alcoholic fermentation in wooden a 75 cl format in 2003. It is not defined yet when it will be released in Magnum format. Tinto Fino: 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon: 20%. Production was 100 000 75cl. bottles, 2500 Magnums and 110 Jeroboams. €405 Closed, lean, cherries, violets, hints of white pepper Finish: Silky, moderate length, still closed In a nutshell: A sleeping giant? Buy or not: There are better wines available In a nutshell: Needs more time Buy or not: Future value Tasted: 13 times, last in 2016 Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020 Food pairing: Beef Wellington Fake factor: None Inside information: The 1990 vintage was released in Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Moderately deep, ruby youthful, brambles, raspberries Finish: Reserved, smooth, warming, a bit 1991 Vega Sicilia Unico A1 Palate: Medium-bodied, lively, supple tannins, acidity, full, a bit volatile, promising 94p €375 Or try this: Pesquera Gran Reserva 1990 Final verdict: A giant frog waiting for his Princess 97p 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €460 A1 Bright, deep, capable Influential, sweet, ripe, expansive, tar, kirsch, black fruits, plum, herbs Palate: Distinguished, well-balanced, opulent, plush, very ripe, multifaceted, intense, voluptuous, firm backbone Finish: Long, intense and captivating In a nutshell: Rich, long, well-balanced, mesmerizing Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: All-embracing baggage Absolutely 11 times, last in 10/2016 2 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes 1994 Inside information: The 1994 Unico is a blend of 80% Tinto Fino, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot (presumably 2% is unknown varieties) that was picked from September 28 Or try this: Try at least once in your lifetime Final verdict: Lovely to drink today 48 www.tastingbook.com

1995 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €365 A1 Deep, garnet red, clear Multifaceted, sweet, exposed, refined smoky, cigar, earthy, fruity, rustic 94p 1996 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Graceful, smooth, tuneful, firm structure, intense, charismatic In a nutshell: A copybook Unico Buy or not: Unconditionally Tasted: 8 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: 2025–2050 Food pairing: Roast duck with fried onions Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia Unico 1995 has been one of the biggest risers in the Liv-ex 1000 during this period, climbing 37%. Or try this: Pingus 1995 Final verdict: Inspiring wine with charismatic edge A1 Deep, ruby, youthful, unblemished Opulent, unguarded, complex, blackberry, vanilla, dark chocolate, mocha Palate: Medium-bodied, well-balanced, supple, mighty, intense, multi-layered, silky Finish: Accomplished, glowing, silky, stretched €328 FINE Legend 96p Finish: Flavourful, good length, persuasive In a nutshell: Seductive Buy or not: If there is no 1994 or 1995 available Tasted: 10 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2030 Food pairing: Aged Cheddar Fake factor: None Inside information: There are barely 4,000 lucky people who can claim to have the privilege of purchasing directly from the winery, without having to go to a store or restaurant, that also increase the price of the wine as they are aware that it is a scarce commodity, where demand is triple the supply. Or try this: Le Pin 1996 Final verdict: Very expressive 97p 1998 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €440 A1 Medium intense, deep ruby Toasty, rich and intense nose with vanilla oaky tones Palate: Full-bodied, intense, rich, jammed, round, moderate tannins Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Long, balanced and energetic finish An overwhelming wine Yes 9 times, last in 10/2016 3 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Grilled rack of lamb with fried sweet potatos Fake factor: None Or try this: Penfolds Grange 1998 Final verdict: Already great for its age and price 95p 1999 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €309 A1 Bright, deep, profound Open, noticeable, passionate, oak, kirsch, exotic spices, vanilla, honey Palate: Medium-bodied, mellow, ripe, wellbalanced, multi-layered, seductive, smooth, velvety, sweet tannin Finish: Warm, long-lasting, intense In a nutshell: Stimulating Buy or not: Good value for money Tasted: 14 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Smoked duck breast Fake factor: None Inside information: Once the process of fermentation had been completed, the wine remained in large-capacity wooden vats for 21 months. It then matured for 20 months in new casks, 17months in semi-new casks and 24 months in largecapacity wooden vats. The remaining time was spent in bottle until being released in 2009. Or try this: Clos Erasmus 1999 Final verdict: Should be even better! WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 49

THE BEST VEGA SICILA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 97p 2000 Vega Sicilia Unico €310 Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: A1 Almost black, deep, promising Open, powerful, intense, sweet black fruits, oriental spices 94p Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Vigour, opulent, fresh, well-balanced, Long, intense, extensive Very youthful but so drinkable already For sure 4 times, last in 10/2016 2 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Fried scallops None Artadi Vina El Pisón Very similar than the best Bordeaux from 2000 vintages. €265 A1 Deep, garnet ruby, clear Multifaceted, sweet, exposed, refined smoky, cigar, earthy Palate: Graceful, smooth, tuneful, firm complex, fleshy, multi-dimensional Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 2002 Vega Sicilia Unico structure, intense, charismatic Finish: Accomplished, silky, stretched In a nutshell: Pleasing Buy or not: You should Tasted: 3 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2040 Food pairing: Truffles risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: Having skipped over releasing a 2001 due to frost damage, the 2002 Unico is a result of a severe selection as attested by the label which shows that just 42,932 bottles were produced instead of 108,536 in 2000. Or try this: Araujo Eisele Vineyard 2002 Final verdict: A restrained classic 92p 2003 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €229 A1 Bright, deep, almost black Open, earthy, rich, sharp, truffle, caramel, tobacco, minty Palate: Medium bodied, high acidity, supple tannins, complex, concentrated, opulent Finish: Balanced, powerful, long-lasting, In a nutshell: Average for Unico Buy or not: Very good price-quality ratio Tasted: 3 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Smoked duck breast Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia’s 2003 Unico, mainly Tempranillo with a balancing 8% of Cabernet Sauvignon, was aged in wood for nearly seven years before being bottled, starting with 15 months in large oak vats, followed by 25 months in new barriques, before being transferred to used ones for another 17 months and ending its elevage with a further 22 months in those large wood vats again. 76,050 bottles and 2,616 magnums were filled (on the low-ish side for Unico), but the magnums will be sold later; they are currently offering 2000 in magnum and 1999 in double-magnum. Or try this: Harlan Estate 2003 Final verdict: Worth to discover 50 www.tastingbook.com 96p 2004 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €310 A1 Youthful, bright, deep Expressive, pure, fresh, mint, herbs, spicy, tobacco leaf, vanilla, truffles Palate: Well-balanced, fleshy, good structure, moderate weight, liquorice, sweet fruit Finish: Multi-layered, forward, clean In a nutshell: Bombshell Buy or not: Superb value Tasted: 4 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2040 Food pairing: Roasted lamb served medium-rare Fake factor: None Inside information: The Vega Sicilia Unico 2004 was described by Pablo Álvarez as a ‘textbook vintage’. With 97 points from the Wine Advocate it is one of the highest scoring recent vintages, praised by Neal Martin for its ‘haunting bouquet of dark brambly black fruit, cassis, honey, a tang of marmalade and bacon fat’. With a market price of £2,000, the 2004 is relatively affordable: a third cheaper than the 98-point 1998 and only 3% more expensive than the 93-point 2000. At £1,800 per 12×75, the 95-point 2002 would also seem to offer relative value. Or try this: Aalto PS 2004 Final verdict: Profound

95p 2005 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €269 Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: A1 Sound, clear, dark, deep Open, seductive, dried fruits, herbs, tea, earthy, tobacco, broad, Palate: Smooth, forceful, well-balanced, fruity, sweet, aromatic, appetizing, complex €234 A1 Medium-deep, brick red Rich, robust, multilayered – blackcurrants, black olives, cedar, pencil shavings, bell pepper Palate: Medium-bodied, mineral twist, firm tannins and ripe black fruitiness Finish: Rich, horizontal, passionate, long. In a nutshell: It’s coming! Buy or not: Great value Tasted: 3 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Grilled Porterhouse Steaks Fake factor: None Inside information: After its fermentation, its goes through Finish: Refined and smoky In a nutshell: Gentle power pack Buy or not: For your cellar Tasted: 3 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Grilled beef with roasted vegetables Fake factor: None Inside information: A blend of mostly Tempranillo with what is probably the world’s longest ageing of a red wine, almost 10 years between wood and bottle. The different stages take place in different types of barrel: American and French wood, new and used 225-litre barrels, 20,000-litre vats, each batch is what determines the type of wood and the time spent in each container. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Unico typically spends seven years aging in large, new and old oak casks, with three years in bottle before release; however, in 2007 it didn’t. In a stunning break from tradition, Vega-Sicilia chose to age it just 64 months, split between barrel and foudre, releasing the 2007 before the 2005. The product of very low yields and old vines, some more than 100 years old. Or try this: Bond Estate St. Eden 2005 Final verdict: Sound choice 95p 2007 Vega Sicilia Unico FINE Legend 94p Or try this: Bond Estate St. Eden 2005 Final verdict: Sound choice 2008 Vega Sicilia Unico Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: €280 A1 Very dark, almost black core Youthful, elegant and complex, blackcurrants, truffles, violets Palate: Medium-bodied, concentrated yet delicate fruit, round and velvety tannins Finish: Energetic, rich and long-lasting with toasty vanilla tones In a nutshell: A silky wine with very refined, classic style Buy or not: At this price – Yes. Tasted: 2 times, last in 10/2016 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Venison Tournedos with truffle risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: 2008 was a challenging vintage in Ribera del Duero, a vintage marked by a severe frost on September 24th. The vineyards of Vega Sicilia were saved by some anti-frost burners, that really made the difference. Even though, there are only some 70,000 bottles of 2008 Único, a wine that will be released around March 2016 after the 2007, and before they sell 2005 and 2006. Or try this: Dominus 2008 Final verdict: Future is already here WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 51

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FINE Vintage s Text: Juha Lihtonen Photos: Pekka Nuikki Napa Valley wine producers are not used to worrying about the sufficient ripening of grapes. However, the growing seasons of 2010 and 2011 gave them cause to do so. The weather conditions of the vintages gave a reminder to wine producers of the conditions with which their colleagues in Bordeaux struggle from one year to the next. The rainy, cloudy and chilly weather that characterized the growing periods forced producers to do their utmost to help the grapes to ripen. Despite the challenging weather conditions, one of the vintages turned out to be highly esteemed, while the other is maligned as one of the poorest of the area. We decided to weigh up the vintages. We collected together the most esteemed red wines and winemakers of the Napa Valley and formed our evaluations of the vintages and their best wines. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 55

A group of wine experts sits in Meadowood Resort’s Wine Library in the Napa Valley. Among the experts, there are the most distinguished wine producers of the valley. They excitedly await the success of their wines in the blind tasting that is soon to begin. Several dozens of wine bottles wrapped in foil are waiting to be evaluated on the side table. A lively discussion is taking place in the room about the quality of the vintages. The wine producers are recounting their experiences of growing seasons. On the basis of their comments, the vintage quality assessments by the American wine medias, Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, generate astonishment. Wine Advocate has classified the quality of the 2011 vintage as 78 points, while the 2010 got 95 points. Wine Spectator is a little more generous, giving the vintage 2011 vintage 86 points with 2010 getting 96 points. On the basis of these evaluations, there would be cause to avoid the wines of the 2011 vintage. In terms of the tasting, no great success in comparisons can be predicted either for the wines of the vintage. However, when listening to the comments of the wine producers, an impression arises that 2011 wasn’t at all as poor as what the assessments may lead one to understand. However, the wine producers conclude that 2010 was more favorable for the wine producer than 2011 when Mother Nature put the ability and nerve of the wine producers to the true test. 56 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Vintage s The virtue of patience Growing conditions in 2010 and 2011 were, except for the fall, largely similar. In both years, the growing season of the vines was delayed because of the cool and rainy weather. The summer of 2010, and particularly July, was exceptionally cold – the second coldest in fifty years, while the summer of 2011 was chilly but also rainy. In 2011, the rainfall in June was a third higher than the average. The chilly weather of the summer and the rains slowed down the ripening of the grapes in both years and added to mold problems at the vineyards. In order to prevent mold problems, the producers thinned out the foliage of the vines to keep the bunches as dry as possible and exposed to sunlight and heat. The thinning out of the foliage done in the summer of 2010 caused concern for the producers in August and September when the rain and clouds were chased away by the parching sun of California and the grapes became under risk of being scorched. The radical change in the weather continued in October when the vineyards were subjected to the fall storms that buffeted the area, as a result of which the producers feared that the crop would get diluted. With the storms, the weather condition declined quickly and this made the night-time temperatures fall below freezing. The producers had to time the moment of the harvest with great care. There was no comparable thriller in 2011. The fall didn’t bring a change from the summer. The chilly weather, extensive cloudiness and rains that had troubled the Napa Valley continued long into the fall. The crop was further wracked by heavy storms in the middle of October. However, patient producers were rewarded as Mother Nature offered relief after the long ordeal. Sunny, dry and warm weather spread into the Napa Valley before the end of October and rescued the crop. In the end, the yield was only ten percent smaller than in 2010. The quality of the crop was generally good, albeit different from normal because the sugar contents of the grapes were lower as a result of the long chilly growing season. Despite the lower sugar levels, the grapes attained their ideal physiological ripeness. As a result the wines are delicate and very aromatic. The phenomenon is rare in the Napa Valley. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 57

The results The wines of the vintages were assessed separately and in two rounds in two different panels. The first assessment was done by the experts of Fine Magazines and the second together with the wine producers. The wines were ranked in order of quality on the basis of the average scores of the assessments. In the assessment, a clear difference in character became apparent between the wines of the vintages and this was also reflected in the scores. The wines of 2010 are concentrated and generally closed. The wines of 2011, on the other hand, are flirtily nuanced and energetic. A lively acidity unites the wines of both vintages. In 2010, the sugar content of the grapes was higher and resulted full-bodied wines. In character, they represent the classic wines of the Napa Valley – rich and full-bodied yet refined, needing bottle ageing to open up. The wines of the 2011 vintage, on the other hand, are delicate in terms of aromas, herbaceous and lighter than traditional Napa wines, more reminiscent of the Bordeaux wines of mature years. Both wines benefit significantly from cellaring. The wines of 2010 require at least another ten years of bottle ageing to peak. The wines of 2011 also improve considerably through cellaring and reach ideal enjoyability in five to ten years. However, 2011s are also already enjoyable now if decanted at least ten hours in advance. Even though in the assessments the best wine was the 2010 Screaming Eagle (95.5 points), the differences in points between the vintages were even. The best wine of 2011, Bryant Family Vineyard, was only half a point behind the 2010 Screaming Eagle. When we look at the Top 20 lists of both vintages and the average scores of the wines, then the wines of 2011 come out in front of 2010 by 0.57 points. The Top 20 wines of 2011 are all within a range of three points, whereas the range for the wines of 2010 was greater; 4.9 points. 58 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Vintage s The results of the assessment were in conflict with the quality of the 2011 vintage that is presented in the wine media. With regard to the results, the disparity is of course also explained by the fact that we’re now evaluating the best wines of the top producers, who have the skills and terroir to produce the great wines even in poorer years. Despite this, the twenty-point difference presented by Wine Advocate between the qualities of the vintages forces one to consider the relevance and interpretability of vintage charts. It’s clear that the 2011 vintage was an extreme vintage in the Napa Valley and in terms of weather conditions it can be considered to be one of the worst growing seasons for decades. In this respect, the scores shown in the vintage charts are justified. However, the problem with vintage charts is how they’re interpreted. The consumer infers the average quality of the wines of the vintage from the charts and doesn’t understand that they describe the quality of the conditions of the growing season. As a result of this, many excellent wines from difficult vintages are left unbought. It is hoped that at least this won’t happen in the case of the Napa Valley’s 2011 wines. In the assessment, the wines did better than the wines of 2010. The year of 2011, which was difficult in terms of weather conditions, put the producers on the spot and required extreme alertness and all possible attention from them. It can be sensed in wines of 2011, which sound like a perfectly tuned instruments and burst with all the energy that the producers have had to devote in order to create the best possible wines. Two challenging successive vintages in the Napa Valley were a great trial for the producers that they passed victoriously. The challenges faced in the growing season of 2010 gave a good rehearsal to producers for 2011. Without the challenging weather conditions and overcoming them in 2010, the producers would perhaps not have been ready for the challenges of 2011. Now they have come out as winners from both of them. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 59

Allison Tauziet, winemaker Colgin Cellars The 2010 was a relatively long, yet cool growing season. At our vineyard sites, the canopies were moderate to higher vigor, which was a blessing in a cooler year as it ensured we had the right size “engine” to ripen the fruit. A healthier canopy also contributed a very nice level of acidity. In 2010 we saw moderate crop levels. The fruit contained extraordinary amounts of flavor and color, which were all preserved beautifully up to the moment of picking thanks to the cooler weather in October. The extraction formed easily. Our focus was in preserving those fresh flavors, as they were just so gorgeous to work with. Flavors spanned the full spectrum in 2010. The fruit achieved those intense dark fruit flavors we love from Napa Valley, but terroir driven earth and rocky notes remained a driving part of the personality in the wines. I love this vintage! The weather in the 2011 growing season was quite far outside the norm. It was a short, yet cool growing season, which felt a lot more aligned with what you’d experience in Bordeaux, than in Napa Valley. That being said, I love what the season taught us about our vineyard sites. Thanks to hillside’s rocky soils, we had a great drainage on vineyards, which gave us an advantage in terms of fruit quality. The crops were quite light, so with a short growing season, we were still able to ripen our fruit fully. The 2011 wines on a whole have fabulous freshness and acidity. They are less fruit forward than a typical Napa Valley vintage, but they make up for it with their earth and savory succulent notes. They are less full-bodied than on average years, but they are bursting with elegance and sophistication. This vintage is very close to my heart as I feel it’s the most challenging vintages that really set apart the greatest terroir. I’m very proud to craft the wines from the IX Estate, Tychson Hill and for Cariad, Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos. Napa Vintage Reports 2010 & 2011 By professionals Marc Gagnon, winemaker Bryant Family Vineyard 2010 Vintage Budbreak began in the last week of March at Bryant. It was about 2–3 weeks later than an average year. Flowering and fruit set followed similarly postponed 2–3 weeks as the weather remained cool through the spring and into the heart of the growing season. With only a few heat spikes in August and September. The berries were small in size and reached an optimal ripeness steadily. At the estate, all blocks were picked within the third week of October. The non-estate Bettina blocks began to be picked the first of October through the end of the third week of October. The overall long cool growing season produced wines of intense density along a brooding more dark fruit and savory spectrum while beautifully expressing varietal nuance and complexity. 2011 Vintage The 2011 vintage had a similarly late bud-break to 2010 being in the last week of March. Onset of bloom pushed back to the end of May and, due to varying cool and hot weather, heavy shatter occurred – reducing yields between 25–35%. Temperatures during the growing season were on par with the preceding 2009 and 2010 vintages. With heavy shatter and another cool year expected to unfold, cluster and canopy management was of utmost importance to maximize photosynthesis and produce optimal quality in the fruit. 60 www.tastingbook.com Patience and intense vineyard management was rewarded as we picked our estate over two weeks: October 17th to November 2nd. The expressions of the different terroirs of our non-estate vineyards were intensified in 2011, with harvest starting in the warmer sites as early as October 3rd, and the cooler sites as late as November 3rd. I find the wines of 2011 with an elegance and grace that harks back to earlier years of Napa Valley; wines that I originally fell in love with and drew me to this region. I love the remarkable freshness and enhanced savory aspects that the 2011s bring in spades and will carry them through their undeniably long lives.

FINE Vintage s Cory Empting, winemaker Harlan Estate & BOND Justin Dragoo, General Manager Gargiulo Vineyards The 2010 was a cool vintage compared to the prior warm vintages – 2007–2009. Unusual rains mixed with heat spikes had our vineyard crews scrambling throughout the growing season. We experienced nearly four inches of rain in October. Our concerns mounted as harvest approached, but after the grapes were harvested and in the cellar, it was clear that this will be an outstanding vintage. The cooler than normal vintage led to a freshness in the wines that has not been seen in years, and despite any prior worries there were no green or under-ripe flavors detected in any varietal. The 2010s continue to be among our favorite wines produced from the estate. We thought 2010 was a cool vintage with unusual rains … until 2011 came along. The 2011 vintage was unusually cool and rainy at level not seen in decades, and provided a challenge for most young winemakers in the valley. Huge rains in March led to multiple issues at fruit set and maintaining high standards for adopted quality throughout Napa Valley. The grapes were carefully selected at harvest and on the sorting table which lead to dramatic drops in the quantity of wines produced in 2011. Initially vintners detected herbal and green flavors in the wines, but at our estate, this early-harvest style has led to complex tobacco and coffee flavors in our reds. The higher acidity of the vintage should lead to an unusually long cellar life, and they are just starting to develop what will become a couple decades of slow evolution. What is interesting about 2010 and 2011 is that they both had almost the exact amount of thermal accumulation throughout the season. So, you cannot say that one was cooler or warmer than the other. The biggest difference between the two was the amount of rainfall and more importantly the timing of the rainfall. In 2011 we had large rain events in the first week of June that coincided with bloom. In many places depending on timing this brought the yield down significantly and temporally disoriented the vines. They were not sure whether they should produce more shoots and leaves or ripen the clusters. The soils that drained more quickly were less affected by this. Both vintages had rain during harvest, but in the case of 2011 the rain was followed by dense fog in the valley. This created ideal conditions for botrytis to develop in many low-lying areas. In 2010 the challenge was all about timing – timing of crop removal, leafing and picking. We knew it was going to be a cool year and that we had a short runway to ripen fruit. We had to thin earlier than normal to ensure the development of fine tannins. We also opened canopies more than normal. This is always a risky maneuver in our climate where the sun can play a powerful role, but in the end nature rewarded us for this gamble. Extraction needed to be moderated in order to find the right balance. The wines are muscular with layer upon layer of fruit, but what makes these wines exciting is the amount of acidity. It matches up to the hedonic density of the wines providing life on the palate and freshness in the nose. These wines are meant for the long haul and I believe they may outlive us all. In 2011, the greatest challenge was to stay mentally strong. We had very low yields and had to take steps to remove even more crop in order to tighten the maturity window. Throughout the season nature was clearly in the driver seat. I say it is a year about faith in place. So many times we proclaim the greatness of site in Napa, but how many times are we truly tested? There were so many times that were mere spectators to the whims of nature and yet the great sites prevailed. Aromatically wines have fruit, minerality and freshness that seems almost floral. They have all of the detail that we normally see in a wine that is at least 10 years old without showing any other signs of age. These wines aren’t about structure and muscle they are about grace and charm at the highest level. I believe that 2011 produced some of the greatest wines we’ve ever made from certain sites, but only time will tell. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 61

1 - 25 The Best Cabernets of Napa Valley 2010 62 www.tastingbook.com Ranking Points 1 95.5 2 94.9 3 94.8 4 94.5 5 94.4 6 94.3 7 93.5 8 93.5 9 93.4 10 93.2 11 92.7 12 92.6 13 92.3 14 91.7 15 91.5 16 91.2 17 91.0 18 91.0 19 90.7 20 90.6 21 90.3 22 90.0 23 89.0 24 89.0 25 89.0

1–25 Ranking Points 1 95 2 94.9 3 94.8 4 94.5 5 94.3 6 94.0 7 93.8 8 93.6 9 93.5 10 93.4 11 93.3 12 93.0 13 93.1 14 92.8 15 92.6 16 92.7 17 92.5 18 92.4 19 92.3 20 92.0 21 91.8 22 91.7 23 91.6 24 91.6 25 91.6 WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE Vintage s The Best Cabernets of Napa Valley 2011 63

NAPA CABERNET TOP 10 2010 1 95.5p Screaming Eagle 2010 Average price € 3,064 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple to ruby Nose: Refined, intense, ripe black currants, violets, licorice, dark chocolate, lovely toastiness, hints of mint Palate: Full-bodied yet delicate, satiny tannins, ripe intense black fruit, great concentration Finish: Multilayered, harmonious and polished In a nutshell: Wine of subtleties Buy or not: Start queing for Screaming Eagle mailing list, if you are lucky to get there the new vintages are ”bargains” (€750–850) Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: 2025–2040 Grilled venison fillet with red wine chocolate sauce Fake factor: Very low risk, but with the wines of this price, there is always a risk of counterfeits Inside information: The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc. Produced 610 cases. Or try this: Pétrus 2010, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: A charming and gentle giant 64 www.tastingbook.com 2 95.0p Colgin IX Estate 2010 Average price € 507 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Rich, spicy, blueberries, licorice, black truffles, complex Palate: Full-bodied, refined, concentrated, polished tannins, dark chocolate, ripe brambles Finish: Concentrated, broad, long-lasting In a nutshell: Full of promise Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: 2030–2040 Food Pairing: Grilled sirloin with parmesan risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot Or try this: Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2010, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: The queen of the hill

Relic Artefact Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Average price € 82 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, ripe black fruit, blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, smoky, spicy Palate: Full-bodied, rich in velvety tannins, round, ripe black fruit, lovely spiciness Round, rich and caressing Finish: Opulent and harmonious In a nutshell: Absolutely yes!! The qualityprice ratio is magnificient! Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 1.5 hours When to drink: 4 Average price € 567 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Bit reserved, refined, focused, aromatic, black fruits, spicy Palate: Full-bodied, rich, roasted, blackberries and raspberries, mineral bite, violets Finish: Concentrated, intense and very stylish In a nutshell: Wine with focus and depth Buy or not: Yes, if you want to taste one of the most esteemed Napa reds Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Grilled wild boar ribs with grilled peppers Fake factor: None Now–2022 Roasted beef fillet with grilled onions and mushrooms Fake factor: None 5 94.4p Realm Cellars Beckstoffer Dr Crane Vineyard 2010 Average price € 143 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Opulent, loads of black fruits, blueberries, blackberries, cassis, touch of burnt wood Palate: Full-bodied, broad and rich, weighty texture, supple tannins Finish: Round, rich and generous In a nutshell: Mouthfilling and tempting Buy or not: Yes, among the best pricequality wines in the tasting Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now–2025 Food Pairing: Bistecca alla Fiorentina Fake factor: None Inside information: Produced 445 cases Or try this: Final Verdict: Monteverro 2009, Tuscany, Italy A wine with big and soft voice 2025–2030 Food Pairing: Food Pairing: Inside information: The 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from 3-acre vineyard plot located in western hills of Oakville. Or try this: Alvaro Palacio Finca Dofi 2009, Priorat, Spain Final Verdict: A wine with humble soul Colgin Cariad 2010 FINE Vintage s 3 94.8p 94.5p Inside information: The blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc. Or try this: Guigal Hermitage Ex-Voto 2009, Rhône, France Final Verdict: A big wine with soul of poet 6 94.3p Blankiet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Paradise Hills Vineyard 2010 Average price € 220 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Refined, intense, perfumey, violets, licorice, black currants, toasty, fine touch of cedar Palate: Full-bodied, satiny tannins, vivid acidity, intense cassis fruit, refined toastiness, broad Finish: Extremely fine, concentrated and persistent In a nutshell: Like a tailor made Cashmere suit Buy or not: Yes, this wine will not let you down Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2025–2035 Food Pairing: Smoked venison fillet with roasted beetroots Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 84.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.4% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 0.5% Petit Verdot. Or try this: Château de Valandraud 2010, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: One of the most seductive Napa Cabs WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 65

7 Tychson Hill Vineyard 93.5p Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Average price € 394 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Rich, complex, cassis, toasty, violets Palate: Full-bodied, intense, sweet tannins, rich in black fruit, cedar, spices Finish: Pure and powerful In a nutshell: A noble wine Buy or not: Yes, it’s a bargain in Colgin portfolio Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: 8 2025–2035 Tournedos Rossini 9 Average price € 587 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby to purple Nose: Complex, tempting, intense blackcurrant and blueberry aromas, new oak, toasty Palate: Full-bodied, mouth-filling, very refined tannins, intense black fruit, dark chocolate, toasty Finish: Profound, refined and lingering In a nutshell: Solid and flawless Buy or not: Yes, Bryant Family wines are like putting money in the bank Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 4 hours When to drink: 2020–2040 Food Pairing: Elk Tournedos with blueberry butter sauce and Duschesse potatos with truffles Fake factor: None Inside information: A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a 13-acre vineyard from top of Pritchard Hill. Or try this: Château Haut-Brion 2005, PessacLéognan, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: The king of the hill 66 www.tastingbook.com Average price € 103 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, seductive, toasty, roasted coffee, cassis, dark chocolate Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, refined tannins, round, rich black fruit, smoky, toasty Finish: Long, round and seductive In a nutshell: Harmonious and opulent Buy or not: Yes, case loads – look at the price! Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours Now–2025 Food Pairing: Bavette Steak With Beurre Rouge & Roasted Potatoes Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Or try this: Château Cos d’Estournel 2009, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: Grand Napa aristocrat Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Gargiulo Vineyards Money Road Ranch 2010 When to drink: Fake factor: None 93.4p 93.5p Inside information: A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a 40-acre vineyard located in the heart of Oakville. Or try this: Château TroplongMondot 2003, StEmilion, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: Smooth as velvet 10 93.2p Gargiulo Vineyards G Major 7 2010 Average price € 206 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Rich, spicy, toasty, roasted coffee, cassis, dark chocolate, hints of mint Palate: Full-bodied, intense black fruit, firm refined tannic structure, toasty spiciness Finish: Concentrated, intense and fleshy In a nutshell: Like jazz music in the mouth Buy or not: Yes, this charms every red wine lover Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2018–2028 Food Pairing: Herb-crusted rack of lamb with tomatos and feta Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot. Or try this: Ben Webster’s Sophisticated Lady Final Verdict: A jazzy wine

FINE Vintage s NAPA CABERNET TOP 10 2011 1 95.0p Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Average price € 521 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, opaque, purple Nose: Lovely intensity, refined, complex, gentle toastiness, ripe black currants, blueberries, cedar, tobacco Palate: Full-bodied, broad, mouthfilling texture, gentle yet firm tannins, ripe black fruit, toasty Finish: Smooth, opulent and satiny In a nutshell: A killer wine Buy or not: Yes, it is worth of every penny Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 4 hours When to drink: 2020–2035 Food Pairing: Wagyu steak with braised chestnuts and onions Fake factor: None Inside information: The production was 660 cases, which was 35% less than in 2010. Or try this: Pingus 2009, Ribera del Duero, Spain. Final Verdict: Absolutely brilliant Bryant 2 94.9p Harlan Estate 2011 Average price € 752 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, dark, ruby Nose: Intense, rich, perfumey, blackberries, cassis, smoky, spicy Palate: Full-bodied, dense, gentle tannins, spicy, licorice, cassis, brambles Finish: Refined, velvety and precise In a nutshell: If this wine was a car, it would be Bentley Bentayga Buy or not: Yes! Don’t hesitate if you find a bottle Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 4 hours When to drink: 2020–2035 Food Pairing: Over-braised beef with black truffle risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: The first vintage of Harlan Estate was 1991. Or try this: Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes 2010, Priorat, Spain Final Verdict: One of the most charming Harlan wine WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 67

3 94.8p Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Average price € 248 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, opaque, purple Nose: Rich, dense, blackberries, cassis, toasty, dark chocolate, violets, spices, smoky minerality Palate: Full-bodied, intense, fresh, powerful, chunky tannins, vivid acidity, rich but supple Finish: Harmonious, full and vivid In a nutshell: A delicate blockbuster Buy or not: Yes, you won’t be let down Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 4 2020–2030 Average price € 330 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby to purple Nose: Concentrated, intense, sweet jammy black fruit, dark raspberries, brambles, plums, spices, licorice Palate: Full-bodied, sweet tannins, opulent ripe black and red fruits, violets, round Finish: Mellow, soft and opulent In a nutshell: Palate pleaser Buy or not: Yes, but buy the entire Bond range if you can Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 5 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now–2025 Food Pairing: Miso cured duck breast with roasted pumpkin Fake factor: None Inside information: Melbury was the first wine in BOND portfolio launched in 1999. A 7-acre hillside vineyard on rocky soils overlooking Lake Hennessey. Or try this: Bond St-Eden 2011, Napa Valley, California, USA Final Verdict: Mellow Melbury is a crowd pleasurer 68 www.tastingbook.com When to drink: 2020–2030 Grilled rack of lamb with roasted garlic potatos Fake factor: None Inside information: The vineyard was originally planted in 1881 by Josephine Tychson, the first female vintner in Napa Valley. Or try this: Podere Il Carnasciale Caberlot 2010, Tuscany, Italy Final Verdict: Seductive and charming Inside information: This 54 acres steep hillside vineyard yielded its first vintage in 1978. Or try this: Achaval-Ferrer Finca Altamira La Consulta 2009, Mendoza, Argentina Final Verdict: An epitome of Napa Cabernet Bond Melbury 2011 Decanting time: Glass time: 4 times, last in 11/2015 8 hours 3 hours Food Pairing: Soba with green beans and beef with crunchy Asian shallots Fake factor: None 94.3p Average price € 350 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, loads of fresh black fruits, touch of herbs, gentle spiciness, floral tones Palate: Full-bodied, silky texture, energetic, vivid acidity, refined and firm Finish: Focused, round and vivid In a nutshell: Sensual Napa Cab Buy or not: Yes, let this wine seduce you Tasted: Food Pairing: 5 Tychson Hill Vineyard 94.5p Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 6 94.0p Colgin Cariad 2011 Average price € 417 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Profound, spicy, smoky, black and red fruits, black olives, licorice Palate: Firm, full-bodied, mineral bite, violets, ripe black and red berries Finish: Long, vibrant and spicy In a nutshell: Palate pleaser Buy or not: Yes, one of the icons in the Napa Valley Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2025 Food Pairing: Grilled Entrecôte with pan-fried green beans Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Or try this: E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 2011, Rhône, France Final Verdict: Wine with great energy and vibes

Gargiulo Vineyards 575 OVX 2011 Average price € 211 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Dark, ruby red Nose: Refined, tempting, cacao, toasty, Bourbon vanilla, black currants Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, blue fruit, refined tannins, polished tannins, warming Finish: Long, persistent and flavourful In a nutshell: Powerful but still refined Buy or not: Yes, you will love it Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 8 2018–2030 Pan-fried deer fillet with roasted garlic and Port sauce Fake factor: None 9 Average price € 2,320 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Dark, ruby to purple Nose: Perfumed, spicy, cassis, toasty, dark chocolate, licorice Palate: Rich medium-bodied, vivid acidity, firm tannins, fresh opulent fruitiness, lovely spiciness Finish: Long, energetic and lingering In a nutshell: Full of vibrancies Buy or not: If you compare it to Screaming Eagle 2010, it is a bargain! Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 5 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: 2025–2030 Grilled duck brest with cherries and Port sauce Fake factor: Very low, but risk is always there when expensive bottles are Inside information: The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc Or try this: Le Pin 2011, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: A classy Screaming Eagle Average price € 113 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, dark chocolate, cacao, ripe black fruits, spices Palate: Full-bodied, smooth, velvety, chocolatey, round, supple, elegant Finish: Lingering, tasty and spicy In a nutshell: Chords with charm Buy or not: Yes, you will love this as well Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours 2018–2028 Food Pairing: Sauteed lamb fillets with broth and chanterelle raviolis Fake factor: None Inside information: Production is approximately 200 cases annually. Or try this: Visit Gargiulo Vineyards Final Verdict: Wine with tension Screaming Eagle 2011 Gargiulo Vineyards G Major 7 2011 When to drink: Food Pairing: 93.5p 93.6p FINE Vintage s 7 93.8p Inside information: Production is approximately 900 cases annually. Or try this: Oakville Sessions Final Verdict: 10 93.4p A great play Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Average price € 154 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Dark, purple Nose: Intense, toasty, jammy, blueberries, brambles, cassis, violets Palate: Full-bodied, chunky but supple tannins, smooth texture, round Finish: Long, rich and velvety In a nutshell: A Napa Cab cowboy Buy or not: Yes, this is one of the icons Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food Pairing: T-Bone steak with fries and aioli Fake factor: None Inside information: The first vintage was launched in 1975. Or try this: Concha y Toro Don Melchor 2011, Puente Alto, Maipo, Chile Final Verdict: Return of glory WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 69

Ann Colgin: 70 www.tastingbook.com A From

FINE Personality rt A to Wine Text: Juha Lihtonen & Pekka Nuikki P Photos: Pekka Nuikki, Tim Halberg eople who have managed to build not one, but two different, yet internationally successful careers and combine them in a way that brings people joy are few and far between. A Californian vintner Ann Colgin, who has conquered the worlds of art and wine, is one of them. She is known in the world’s leading auction houses for her extensive knowledge of art, as well as for the exquisite wines that bear her name. In the wine circles of California, Colgin is also known as an energetic benefactor who has successfully brought together the worlds of gastronomy, fine wines and art. She actively organises events where art and wine enthusiasts come together to enjoy the finest wines and gastronomy. Through her donations wines, she has also raised over ten million dollars for charity. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 71

Tucked away on a steep hillside in the majestic Pritchard Hill area of Napa Valley, Colgin Cellars is protected from unwanted visitors. It is not a place you wander into by accident. You have to find your way to it, and without instructions it is simply impossible. The unmarked, steep and serpentine road starting from Sage Canyon Road near Lake Hennessy puts even invited visitors’ faith to the test. Finally, after miles of rough road and several forks, the traveller may find the winery gate and beyond a beautiful view down to the valley and Lake Hennessy. A driveway, guarded by lines of perfectly trimmed vines, leads to a picturesque building that evokes Mediterranean villas. At the entrance to the house stands radiantly smiling Ann Colgin, “So you found your way here finally!” she laughs, jokingly adding that for her finding the place took several years. She leads us inside the house, where the walls are covered with massive artworks, and beautiful antique objects captivate the visitor’s attention. In the dining hall, however, attention turns from the artworks to a sizeable collection of now empty bottles of the finest wines in the world atop an antique chest of drawers. The collection consists of bottles of different sizes of the most esteemed wines around the world from the 72 www.tastingbook.com legendary vintages of the past millennium. “My husband Joe and I love to share good wines with our friends. Those bottles of legendary wines are memories from some of those beautiful moments”, she says, and continues: “I hope Colgin wines mature over the years as fabulously as these wines did, but to see that we have to wait a couple of decades.” It is time to sit down at the table and taste the famed Colgin wines. As we sip the wines, Ann tells the story of how she became one of the most distinguished wine producers in the United States. Enchanted by art Ann Colgin grew up in Waco, Texas. She was the only child of the family, and the apple of her parent’s eyes. The family lived a very social life, and good food and wine were always part of it. “I recall driving with my dad to Louisiana to dine in great places such as Antoine’s and Galatoire’s. There were also great dinner parties at our place with my parents and their friends around good food and wine”, Ann says. Although gastronomy was highly valued in her home, Ann never considered making a career in food or wine. Instead, the young Ann dreamed of becoming the manager of the luxury department store Neiman Marcus, headquartered in Dallas. These dreams, however, vanished from her mind at the Dallas Hockaday School for girls, where an inspiring teacher showed her a new direction: art history. She applied and was admitted to study art history at the esteemed Vanderbilt University in Nashville. Art history studies eventually took the young woman to London, where she studied with the world-famous Sotheby’s auction house. In addition to art, Sotheby’s trades in fine wines, which soon attracted her attention. Gone with the wine “Although I don’t really recall my first wine experience, I certainly recall my first fine wine experience. It was before moving to London. I had a friend at university whose father was a great art and wine collector, and I remember that he once opened some beautiful old Bordeaux ­including a 1961 Latour, which we had the ­privilege to taste.” During her time with Sotheby’s in London, Ann participated actively in tastings arranged by the auction houses, and she developed her taste

FINE Personality Chief Operating Officer Paul Roberts MS WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 73

IX Estate, Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley 74 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Personality WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 75

in wine with the very best from Bordeaux and Burgundy. When she joined Christie’s in New York in the 1980s, French wines gave way to American ones, and Ann started travelling more frequently to the Napa Valley to get to know the number one wine-producing area in the United States and the wines that are made there. The Napa Valley Wine Auction offered her an excellent opportunity to learn more about the area. Brian Cole, Ann’s colleague and mentor at Christie’s, was one of the Auctioneers invited to the event. Cole helped Ann become familiar knowing the best of the best. The rarity factor gave me an appreciation for top-quality, artisanal wines right away, and it was only natural to want to share something really special with people who appreciate the painstaking process of creating an extraordinary wine.” A wine of her own On frequent trips to the Napa Valley, Ann became acquainted with wine growers and producers, who encouraged her to fulfil her dream and “I ended up using the name Colgin for the wines as a traditional choice. I did not want to use animal names, which seemed to be all the rage at the time. I wanted to cherish my family name, which is a rare and distinctive name. I was also hoping to make something out of this that I can be very proud of, and naming it after my family was natural. The only worry for me has been people pronouncing the name correctly, not mixing it with ‘gin’, as it has nothing to do with the liquor – there is no gin involved”, Ann laughs, reminding us that the name is she embraced the opportunity. As her chief winemaker, she hired Helen Turley. They found the high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes needed for the wine in Herb Lamb’s vineyard on Howell Mountain. Ann engaged in a long-term agreement with the Lambs, and Turley got to choose the best grapes directly from their vineyard. The wine was made in the facilities of The Napa Wine Company. Eventually the only thing that was missing was a name for the new wine. ­pronounced ‘Col­ghin’”. Ann’s dream became reality in 1995, when the Colgin “Herb Lamb” Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1992 was introduced to the market. The wine received plaudits from both the media and collectors, and the entire batch of 250 cases was sold in next to no time. The wine got the attention of wine circles, and Colgin “Herb Lamb” sold like hot cakes, year after year. Ann remembers one of her customers once even ­offering Winemaker Allison Tauziet & Ann Colgin not only with the wines coming from the Napa Valley, but also the region itself and the people who made the wines. “For me, the Napa Valley was the most amazing part of America – not only because of its wines, but because of its people. I used to rent a summer house on the valley floor in between Calistoga and St. Helena. As a passionate consumer, I would visit different wineries and I developed this great passion for Cabernet-based wines. My career in art hinged on 76 www.tastingbook.com

Towards Eden The success of her wines encouraged Ann, and she developed her project further with the intention of producing wine with grapes from her own vineyards. In 1996, Ann Colgin bought her first vineyard, “Tychson Hill” in St. Helena, an award winning historic property originally planted in the 19th Century and removed during Prohibition. The small, historic and idyllic Tychson Hill vineyard had originally belonged to Josephine Tychson, the first female wine producer in the Napa Valley, and was being taken over by another energetic female producer. Now Ann only needed the production facilities and the cellars. She looked feverishly for the perfect place. At this time, Ann also had another role as Director of the Sotheby’s West Coast Wine Department where fate intervened: as Ann was invited to a wine-tasting dinner given by the legendary Burgundy producer Henry Jayer at the famous Spago restaurant in Beverly Hills. The evening was unforgettable, not only because of the wines, but also because of the man who charmed Ann Colgin. This was not Henri Jayer, but one of his guests: the experienced Goldman Sachs investment banker and enthusiastic wine collector Joe Wender. “We shared the same passion for the best wines. He was a lover of classic French wines – and especially Burgundy, like me. Joe was not interested in Californian wines and did not know I was a wine producer. The first time he tasted my wine was actually on our first date at Le Bernardin in New York, when he surprised me by ordering a bottle of it for us. The rest is history!” Ann says. The beginnings of happiness While Ann continued her long search for prime hillside vineyard land and a perfect site for a winery she and Joe began looking in the hills that surround the Napa Valley. When the Long family, a major landowner in the Pritchard Hill area, announced that their property was up for sale in 1998, Ann and Joe embraced the opportunity and bought the most prized parcel. The location was excellent. This plot of land high on the hillside was protected from frost and strong winds, and Lake Hennessy below it created an ideal microclimate for the spot. First, however, Ann and Joe had to clear the land and make it suitable for wine cultivation. The stunted trees and undergrowth were removed using heavy machinery, and a tremendous number of large rocks were removed from the ground. The project took a whole year and the newly born wine site was named the “IX Estate” according to the Long family records, where the site was known as the ninth parcel. While the “IX Estate” was still being developed, David Abreu offered Colgin the opportunity to buy grapes from his vineyards Madrona Ranch vineyard. Ann was grateful for the opportunity and used the grapes to produce a Bordeaux-style blended wine called Cariad in 1999. The following year saw the debut wine from the Tychson Hill vineyard: Tychson Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2000. Before that, while the grapes were still ripening in the Tychson Hill vineyard, Ann and Joe celebrated their wedding at the “IX Estate”. To pay homage to the name of their estate, they picked the ninth of September as the wedding day. The beautiful place was not only a great setting for the wedding, it also symbolised the union of the newlyweds and the beginning of a new happiness that they had both been seeking for a long time. and “IX Estate” along with the “IX Estate” Syrah. In 2007 Colgin produced the final vintage of “Herb Lamb” Cabernet Sauvignon. In twenty years, Ann Colgin has created a brand cherished by both the lucky wine lovers who are on the mailing lists of Colgin Cellars and the ambitious wine making team dedicated to fulfilling and sharing Ann’s dream. A seamless transition in the role of Chief Winemaker has occurred over the past two decades from Helen Turley to Mark Aubert in 1999 and again, in 2007 with Mark handing the mantle to his talented apprentice, Allison Tauziet. Today, Allison leads a dedicated and accomplished winemaking team with great passion. In 2013 Master Sommelier, Paul Roberts joined Colgin as Chief Operating Officer. Roberts is one of California’s most esteemed sommeliers, who became famous for his work with celebrity chef Thomas Keller. Colgin’s twenty-five career as a wine producer has been successful. She has succeeded in creating wines that have charmed wine lovers and critics alike from year to year, and in making them highly desirable. After tasting the Colgin wines of the past two decades, I find it easy to join those who praise them. The wines are consistent, refined, precise and rich, yet elegant. The texture of the wines is satiny, and the tannins are extremely polished. The ripe black fruit flavours are pure and fragrant. While each of the Colgin wines delivers unique terroir characteristics, they have one thing in common – a fragrant violet flavour profile. This feature adds to these big cabernet wines a touch of a great red Burgundy soul. Ann Colgin’s and her team’s inexhaustible quest to push their wines’ quality as close perfection as possible has guaranteed the consistency in Colgin wines’ quality over two decades. Absolute perfection might not be an end in itself for Ann Colgin – but dedication and commitment to her art certainly are, and those are the qualities that have enabled this energetic woman to build a success story that few can rival. > FINE Personality her a brand-new Mercedes-Benz SUV in exchange for a case of Colgin “Herb Lamb” 1994. “Unfortunately, I could only say sorry, it was all sold in a day.” The new Napa Valley cult wine was born, and the name Colgin was included next to other rising stars of Napa Valley wines: Harlan, Screaming Eagle and Dalla Valle. A complete whole In 2002, a state-of-the-art winery was completed at the IX Estate. The excellent facilities allowed the Colgin team to produce even finer wines, thanks to the more accurate selection and monitoring process they could now use. Colgin Cellars had undergone a metamorphosis: in a decade, a project that had started with grapes bought from a single farm made into wine in someone else’s facilities with Ann Colgin in the art world a consultant winemaker had A member of the board and the executive committee become a top-notch indeof the Los Angeles County Museum of Art since 2008 pendent winery that proA member of the board and the executive committee duced no less than five estate of the Centre Pompidou Foundation wines: four Cabernet Sauvignon blends “Herb Lamb”, “Tychson Hill”, “Cariad” WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 77

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A moment with Ann Colgin You explored the world of fine wines through the art world. Do you consider that the two worlds have something in common? “The time that I spent at Christie’s and Sotheby’s really taught me what is the best of the best and why something goes for premium. There are obviously parallels between art and wine. First of all, they both give great enjoyment. Secondly, they are both highly collectable, although as a vintner I do not want to have my wines so collectible that they are left in cellars unopened. I consider that a wine collection should be amassed in order to drink it, as the art of wine can only be experienced by opening the bottle and drinking it. When it comes to producing a great wine, it is a combination of two elements – science and art. If you made wine just by the books, you would not make a great wine. A great wine is made in a vineyard. The process of making extraordinary wines starts in selecting distinct vineyard properties. The next is working with a team who is able to translate everything about the vineyard – the soil, the sun and the essence of the site. Only then does the wine really become a work of art. Do you need vast experience of tasting of the world’s best wines in order to create a masterpiece of your own? I believe that one of the reasons why we have been successful with our wines is because we have had such vast experience of tasting the world’s fi ­ nest wines. We are also lucky to have over 12,000 bottles of the world’s finest wines in our private cellar collection, which we use to do a lot of comparative ­tastings next to Colgin wines. It is important that our team members’ palates are not only trained for Napa wines. They need a broader understanding of the styles of great wines from across the world. You have to have that knowledge to produce great wines. In terms of art, is there an artist who has had a major impact in your life? I am always moved by artists who push our senses and cause us to see the world in a new light. These include Picasso for his creative use of shapes, Ed Ruscha for his use of unusual materials such as gunpowder, and James Turrell for his amazing light installations. I find contemporary living artists, predominantly Californian ones, fascinating. Can you name someone from the world of wine who has had the biggest impact in your life? David Abreu first comes to mind. I would not plant a vineyard without David. He grew up here, he has been growing grapevines here for all his adult life – over 30 years – and he knows this part of the Napa Valley best. ­Another person I would name is Helen Turley, our first winemaker, who is a great a­ rtist and a pioneer. She pushed the envelope in California winemaking at a pivotal moment in time. FINE Personality INTERVIEW What was the very first wine that you recall falling in love with? I really think that a passion for wine is an evolution. I first fell in love with French wines while I was in London studying with Sotheby’s. My first real memorable Californian wines were the 1975 Joseph Phelps “Eisele Vineyard” and the 1968 Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard”. They both really expressed a sense of place. What do you consider to be the most fascinating wines that you have experienced? There are many, but I guess the most fascinating ones have been the 1961 Latour-à-Pomerol, the 1947 Vieux-Château-Certan, and definitely the 1975 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti “Romanée-Conti”, which I had the thrill of drinking with Aubert de Villaine. It is the wine from his wedding year! How would you describe your relationship with wine as a collector and wine lover? I have always bought what I like to experience. When it comes to collecting wines, I think that there should always be an intention of opening the b­ ottles. I am not a fan of buying wine as art or as an investment. If you don’t like something, you should not buy it just for its high appreciation on the market. Do you have other personal “obsessions” than wine and art? In addition to art and wine and great food, it would have to be travel and fitness. I have a very diverse life, and I do different things involving wine and art in different places. Balance is important in every aspect, in both wine and life. In this, fitness plays a great role. By contrast, travelling opens your eyes to different cultures and pushes you to think outside the box. It makes you understand what other people around the world are enjoying, and it gives you perspective on everything. What is needed to succeed in the fine wine business? You need a great vineyard property, followed by intense selection in the vineyard and in the cellar. You must keep your eye on the ball and make the best wine possible, which means a great deal of financial sacrifice – whether it is reducing the quantity by cutting off the fruit in the vineyard to gain better quality, or deciding not to include several barrels of good, but not excellent, wine in the final blend. You must not get greedy, and you must c­ ontinue to strive to make the best. If you have to condense your vinicultural philosophy into a few words, what would those be? It would be caring for our vineyards, followed by selection in the vineyard, and then again in the winemaking process (blending). We are never trying to make the most wine. We are trying to make the greatest expression, which means making quite a few sacrifices. We want our wines to express perfume, minerality, freshness and a definite sense of place. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 79

What have you discovered as the most exciting thing as a vintner? In terms of winemaking, I have to say the vintages. Each vintage is different, with its own mood. This keeps the business very exciting. The other thing is getting to drink and taste great wines – both other producers’ and my own. At the end of the day, the most rewarding part is getting to share great wine with other people. What do you consider that Colgin Cellars represents as a wine brand? At Colgin, we are unique in the world of Cabernet-driven producers in that we follow a Burgundian model, in which each of our wines is tied to a specific origin within the Napa Valley. We make several wines, and we do not sell one wine as a “reserve” or as better than the others. Each wine is intrinsically tied to a single site and should have a unique expression. In this way, our wine is like original art – each wine should have its own unique character. Do you see your brand and wines as luxury items? Absolutely. Colgin can be considered as a luxury brand with wines that are comparable to luxury items in the way they are handcrafted and scarce, with a limited production. It is like making a special handbag – we do every stich individually. We have split the area into one-acre parcels that we monitor and operate exclusively. As a Cabernet-driven producer, you also have one exception in your portfolio: a Syrah from IX Estate. Why? Joe and I have a great love of Northern Rhône wines. We did quite a bit of land and clonal research, ultimately choosing plant material from the Northern Rhône before planting Syrah. Because Syrah is not normally associated with the Napa Valley, it was a big leap of faith, because it was not a proven varietal here, and nobody had planted it in these hills before. I think that the Syrah from this site is drop-dead gorgeous – really sexy. It was a chance worth taking! Do you have a benchmark for your business? We strive to make the best wine possible every year. We can’t compare ourselves to other wineries, because we firmly believe that wines produced are unique to their sites, and that this essence is what should be expressed in the bottle. We do constantly taste wines from producers all over the world, so that we have an intimate relationship with where our wines stand within the world of fine wines. What is it that has made your wines highly esteemed? First of all, without great vineyards, it would have not been possible. I am proud of all the sites where we get our grapes from. They all have their own distinctive personality that makes them different from one another. I love the aspect of these vineyards and their wines, because they really ­express that terroir means something. They also are proof of the Napa Valley ­being distinctive and diverse. Our wines have had a great following since our inception, and I think our reputation has evolved because the wine keeps getting better and better. Each year, we have a better understanding of our vineyard sites – each year, the vines have more age and produce grapes with more complex flavours. How do you maintain the high quality of your wines? I would put emphasis on the word ‘precision’. We are very precise and thoughtful of each individual wine that we produce. All our wines are made 80 www.tastingbook.com in small quantities, and they are highly handcrafted products. We have a great vineyard team who knows our vineyards incredibly well, and we follow our philosophy that the wine is made in the vineyard. Another word to put emphasis on is ‘selection’. What makes phenomenal wine for us is the result of an exclusive selection of fruit in the vineyard and in the winemaking process. So, for instance, we may have a great barrel of Merlot that never makes it into the final cut, just because it does not enhance the final wine. When we do these final tastings of our new vintage we do them blind, so we don’t know how many cases of wine we will finally end up producing. Some people would consider that the wine that we had not chosen for the final cut would go well into blends, but for us that is not an option. We are only satisfied to have the most profound expression in our wines, whether they are single-­varietal ones or blends. This is always a painful economic decision, but it has to be borne in order to make phenomenal wines. Who makes the decision on the final blends? We do it together – Joe and I, our winemaker Allison Tauziet and her ­assistant Mark Kaigas, Paul Roberts and Alain Raynaud, our Bordeaux consultant. We never make the final decision about the blend from one tasting. The wines are tasted several times over several months. We aim always to have a great sense of balance and harmony in the final blend with the sense of place and personality of the vintage and vineyard. We aim always for purity, finesse of power and captivity in all our wines. Do you consider that your IX Estate on Pritchard Hill produces your flagship wines? A number of publications have written stories about Pritchard Hill. I have tried to keep very low key in that, because for me the biggest thing in our wines’ labels is the word Colgin. For me, all of our wines, whichever site they come from, are really reflective of the quality and the place and the vintage. That is what I want people to realize. The most important thing is that we are able to take the best grapes from different sites and create something very special from these sites around the Napa Valley. That is the philosophy that we try to achieve here. The vineyard of “IX Estate” is slightly larger than our other sites and therefore, more people have had the opportunity to experience that wine. What message are you trying to convey through your wines in general? Any great wine should excite the senses and be totally compelling and appealing. I believe that we make one of the top wines in California and I want to make our wines known around the world. We are proud to be part of a group of Napa Valley producers who have helped to put the region on the international map. What do you think that is the prime reason for Napa Valley’s success? In Napa, there is exceptional terroir for red wine varietals. While it is a relatively young region comparatively speaking, there has been a great deal of innovation here, and many old world winemakers have spent time here to learn. There is also a great sense of community. Who would you list as the key people in the Napa wine industry without whom the business would not be at its current high level? Definitely Robert Mondavi as he opened the world’s eyes to California’s potential after the 1960s.

What do you think is the most significant change in the Napa Valley in recent decades? Probably the most significant change is the growth of labels in the Napa Valley, which has exploded. There are now over 500 vintner members of the Napa Valley Vintner Association. I think as a community, we have continued to push the envelope in vineyard techniques. We have discovered the really great vineyards through soil studies and exploration, and we also have a greater understanding insofar as which varietals and clones should be planted in specific sites. Another exciting aspect is the worldwide recognition of outstanding Napa Valley wines. We have done a great job of outreach! What do you find most rewarding about making wine? Sharing it with others! Wine brings people together, and I have met the most amazing people from so many different industries. The greatest part of the wine industry is that the people who are called to it are ever-passionate and interesting, especially with a great glass of wine in hand. Wine is a universal language. I have developed great friendships with people that I never would have met without our wines. I also think the wine industry as a whole is incredibly altruistic, and I am proud to be a part of it. Since I was a young girl, and especially in boarding school, I learned the importance of giving back. Wine for me has been a great vehicle to give back, not only with my time, but also in money. We have raised more than ten million dollars for charity since our founding. We will continue to support tasks that are important for us, such as the charity wine auctions in the Napa Valley and in Naples, Florida. For me, the most important charities are involved with healthcare, education and arts. Art is very important in creating a cultural environment, especially giving underprivileged kids a chance to learn about arts. Obviously healthcare and education are very important for all of us. How do you manage your time? Carefully! I have a diverse life and two homes – in the Napa Valley and in Los Angeles. Apart from the wine business, I still dedicate time to the art world where I am involved with two important museums. I am also an avid collector. I am never too long in one place. Like today, I am here in Napa and tomorrow in LA. Then I fly to Paris and go to Burgundy to visit our Camille Giroud winery. From there, I travel to London to run a tasting event with Berry Bros, and then back home to Napa for a week for a family gathering before I head to Blackberry Farm in Tennessee to host another charity dinner. FINE Personality What do you consider to be the milestones in Napa wine production since you started? I think the most important development in Napa Valley wines has been the surge of quality. This has been due to new developments in technology, better selection and, most of all, farming techniques. When people in the valley replanted a vast amount of vineyards in the 1980s and 1990s, we carefully selected more appropriate clones and rootstocks for each site. Crop-thinning and selection has also led to better wines. You have also found a way to combine wine and art. How? I have been on the board and the executive committee of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art since 2008. We run a major fund-raising event every year called the Collector’s Committee Weekend. It has been held for 30 years, and I have been in charge of it eight times. I added a food and wine ­element to it, and we have organized several special wine dinners around Los Angeles with Napa producers, like us, Araujo, Harlan, Francis Ford Coppola, Dana Estate and Spottswoode. I also bring some of the greatest chefs to these events, including Thomas Keller and Chrisopher Kostow. For me, the greatest thing about wine is how it connects people and how it connects them to art. What do you say to people who are dreaming of having a wine estate? To be really successful, you have to eat, drink and breathe the wine life. It is an all-consuming endeavour. My world revolves around wine – the travelling, participating in wine-tasting groups, etc. You have to be REALLY passionate about wine to enjoy this, and it is not for everyone. What is the prime task they should take into account in it? Patience is the most important factor. If you plant your own Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, it will be seven years at the earliest before you ever sell a bottle of wine from it. Do you think there is still room for newcomers in Napa Valley? Yes, there is always room in any industry for someone who wants to do something great. What do you think of being a woman in the male-dominated wine business? I do not think this is a male-dominated business. There are many women winery owners and winemakers – more every year. There are also women sommeliers throughout the world, and there are many opportunities in wine for women. It is a great industry for women, as we tend to be patient, team players, and are known to have a great sense of smell! Besides, women are humble workers who have a more nurturing and sensitive approach to things than men. What do you find most challenging in your work? Well, in terms of winemaking, it has to be inability to control Mother Nature. Otherwise, I have to say that finding balance in life is difficult, as it is in any industry that you are desperately passionate about. The wine industry, in particular, can be all-consuming, and I would not ever want to change that, yet I do think it is important to find a personal balance. For me, this means continuing to engage my passion for art, and also exercising regularly wherever I am. I love yoga, spin classes and hiking and it is always great to explore a city with a long walk or run! WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 81

COLGIN CELLARS WINE SELECTION Ann Colgin’s one-line description of each of her wines: Tychson Hill This is predominantly a Cabernet Sauvignon from our smallest vineyard (2.5 hectares) planted on iron-rich, gravelly Aiken soil, which offers amazing finesse and minerality along with deep red fruit flavours. Ann’s recommendation for a food accompaniment: Wolfe Ranch quail (especially with older Tychson Hill vintages) Cariad This wine is the most exotic, as it has the greatest proportion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The grapes for this wine virtually all come from the Madrona Ranch in Western St. Helena, and the wine always displays the most Bordeaux-like frame. Ann’s recommendation for a food accompaniment: Broken Arrow Ranch venison 82 www.tastingbook.com IX Estate Red Wine that is made predominantly from Cabernet Sauvignon with quantities of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot. The higher altitude (350 m) of this intensely rocky site allows a great sense of earthy flavours in the wine, with notes of sage and herbs de Provence. Ann’s recommendation for food accompaniment: Elysian Fields lamb IX Estate Syrah This is a smoky and earthy wine with deep dark blue fruit. I consider this an incredibly sexy wine. Ann’s recommendation for a food accompaniment: Texas BBQ, grilled meats

FINE Personality COLGIN CELLARS WINES IX ESTATE 2011 Colgin IX Estate 2010 Colgin IX Estate 2007 Colgin IX Estate 2006 Colgin IX Estate 2005 Colgin IX Estate 2002 Colgin IX Estate 94p 95p 94p 95p 94p 97p TYCHSON HILL 2011 Colgin Tychson Hill 2010 Colgin Tychson Hill 2009 Colgin Tychson Hill 2007 Colgin Tychson Hill 2004 Colgin Tychson Hill 2001 Colgin Tychson Hill 95p 94p 95p 94p 97p 94p CARIAD 2011 Colgin Cariad 2010 Colgin Cariad 2007 Colgin Cariad 2005 Colgin Cariad 2001 Colgin Cariad 94p 95p 93p 95p 93p HERB LAMB 2007 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1999 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1996 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 92p 93p 94p 94p IX ESTATE SYRAH 2009 Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2008 Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2005 Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2004 Colgin IX Estate Syrah 94p 92p 94p 93p WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 83

94p Colgin IX Estate 2011 Average price € 413 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, perfumed, herbaceous, black olives, blackberries Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, energetic, refined tannins, minerally intense Finish: Long, lingering, satin-like In a nutshell: If this wine was a dish on plate, it had to be juicy grilled Wagyu beef with Mediterranean spices Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2025–2035 Grilled venison fillet with bramble sauce None Inside information: The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: A flirty aristocrat 94p Colgin IX Estate 2007 Average price € 564 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, dark ruby Nose: Complex, lovely toastiness, roasted coffee, hint of smoky meat Palate: Full-bodied, elegant, refined tannins, satiny texture, well-integrated Finish: Long, refined and tasty In a nutshell: Power-elegance Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2014 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Sauteed deer fillet with creamy morels None Inside information: This is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Total production is 1500 cases. Final Verdict: Thrill of exuberance 84 www.tastingbook.com 95p Colgin IX Estate 2010 Average price € 507 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Rich, spicy, blueberries, licorice, black truffles, complex Palate: Full-bodied, refined, concentrated, polished tannins, dark chocolate, ripe brambles Finish: Concentrated, broad, long-lasting In a nutshell: Full of promise Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2030–2040 Grilled sirloin with parmesan risotto None Inside information: The blend is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: An uncut diamond 95p Colgin IX Estate 2006 Average price € 524 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, dark ruby Nose: Opulent, charming, ripe black fruits, gently spicy, cedary, violets Palate: Full-bodied, round tannins, satiny texture, multilayered, dark chocolate, blackberries, gentle toastiness Finish: Focused, pure and lingering In a nutshell: Pure charmer Tasted: 4 times, last in 6/2015 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2025–2035 Grilled duck with creamy truffle risotto None Inside information: The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Produced only 1,500 cases. Final Verdict: An epitome of Colgin Cellars

94p Colgin IX Estate 2005 Average price € 346 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, dark ruby Nose: Overt, roasted, smoky, licorice, spices, black fruits Palate: Full-bodied, medium tannins, concentrated, round, silky texture, toastiness, cassis and spiciness Finish: Long, smooth, lingering In a nutshell: Talk of terroir Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2014 Decanting time: 5 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Grilled Entrecôte with fried haricot verts and classic red wine sauce None Inside information: The blend is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Produced 1500 cases. Final Verdict: This wine shows masculin side on Colgin wines. 95p Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Average price € 350 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, loads of fresh black fruits, touch of herbs, gentle spiciness, floral tones Palate: Full-bodied, silky texture, energetic, vivid acidity, refined and firm Finish: Focused, round and vivid In a nutshell: Sensual Napa cab Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Grilled rack of lamb with roasted garlic potatos None Inside information: The vineyard was originally planted in 1881 by Josephine Tychson, the first female vintner in Napa Valley. Final Verdict: Seductive and charming 97p Colgin IX Estate 2002 FINE Personality TASTING NOTES Average price € 607 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, dark ruby Nose: Multilayered, evolving, smoky, Mediterranean herbs, forest floor, black fruits Palate: Full-bodied, supple, harmonious, refined, cassis, gently spicy Finish: Round, smooth, lingering In a nutshell: Divine Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2014 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2018–2028 Grilled sirloin with parmesan risotto None Inside information: The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: This wine reveals the potential of IX Estate 94p Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Average price € 394 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Rich, complex, cassis, toasty, violets Palate: Full-bodied, intense, sweet tannins, rich in black fruit, cedar, spices Finish: Pure and powerful In a nutshell: A noble wine Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2025–2035 Tournedos Rossini None Inside information: The blend is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: Grand Napa aristocrat WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 85

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 95p Average price € 345 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, perfumed, smoky, cassis, blackberry Palate: Full-bodied, velvety tannins, vivid, rich yet elegant black fruit, spices Finish: Long, lingering and concentrated In a nutshell: Liquid elegance Tasted: 4 times, last in 8/2014 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Herb-crusted rack of lamb with tomatofeta couscous None Inside information: Released only 250 cases. Final Verdict: Tychson Hill at its purest. 97p Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Average price € 331 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Open, intense, cassis, cedar, new oak, spices Palate: Full-bodied, velvety texture, ripe tannins, black currants and cedar Finish: Long, subtle and lingering In a nutshell: Total charmer Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2012 Decanting time: 5 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2018–2028 Roasted elk with wild mushrooms and cipollini onions None Inside information: Total production of 168 cases. Final Verdict: Velvet in glass 86 www.tastingbook.com Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 94p Average price € 356 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby red Nose: Intense, seductive, chocolate, cherry, vanilla, tobacco, spices Palate: Full-bodied, rich, round tannins, smooth texture, focused Finish: Round, lingering, long In a nutshell: Smooth and refined Tasted: 4 times, last in 8/2014 Decanting time: 5 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2025–2030 Grilled duck brest with truffled polenta and blackcurrant sauce None Inside information: The production was 221 cases. Final Verdict: Harmony and balance 94p Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Average price € 418 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby red Nose: Evolved, complex, cassis, cigarbox, pencil shavings, floral, leather Palate: Full-bodied, intense, refined tannins, spicy, black currants Finish: Long, persistent and focused In a nutshell: Wine with good tension Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2012 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: Now–2025 Braised beef in red wine and mushrooms None Inside information: Total production of 190 cases. Final Verdict: Pure expression of Napa Cabernet

94p Colgin Cariad 2011 Average price € 417 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Profound, spicy, smoky, black and red fruits, black olives, licorice Palate: Firm, full-bodied, mineral bite, violets, ripe black and red berries Finish: Long, vibrant and spicy In a nutshell: Dense and spicy Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2025 Grilled Entrecôte with pan-fried green beans None Inside information: The blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Final Verdict: Wine with great energy and vibes 93p Colgin Cariad 2007 Average price € 683 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby red Nose: Open, floral, spicy, licorice, cassis Palate: Full-bodied, firm tannins, spicy, warming, concentrated Finish: Firm, intense and long In a nutshell: Warm and spicy Tasted: 4 times, last in 8/2014 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Pan-Seared Rib Eye with grilled Porcini None Inside information: The blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: A harmony of blending 95p Colgin Cariad 2010 FINE Personality TASTING NOTES Average price € 567 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Bit reserved, refined, focused, aromatic, black fruits, spicy Palate: Full-bodied, rich, roasted, blackberries and raspberries, mineral bite, violets Finish: Concentrated, intense and very stylish In a nutshell: Wine with focus and depth Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2025–2030 Grilled wild boar ribs with grilled peppers None Inside information: The blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc. Final Verdict: A big wine with soul of poet 95p Colgin Cariad 2005 Average price € 461 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby red Nose: Perfumed, red and black fruits, fireplace, smoky minerality Palate: Full-bodied, supple, vivid acidity, drying tannins, violets, spices Finish: Long, concentrated and mineral In a nutshell: Vibrant and firm Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2012 6 hours Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2022–2028 Tournedos Rossini None Inside information: Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: Wine with soul of fire WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 87

93p Colgin Cariad 2001 Average price € 392 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby red Nose: Complex, layered, smoke, cedar, slate, black and red fruits Palate: Full-bodied, spicy, supple, perfumed, smoky wood, ripe brambles, espresso Finish: Long, round and spicy In a nutshell: Broad and flavourful Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2012 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: Now–2022 Beef Wellington Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1999 Average price € 338 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby Nose: Complex, perfumed, floral, cigarbox, blackberries, blueberries, cassis Palate: Full-bodied, chunky tannins, vivid, ripe black fruits, toasty Finish: In a nutshell: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: Extensive, smooth and harmonious Rich and round 6 times, last in 7/2016 2 hours 2 hours 2020–2025 Grilled lamb fillet with minty red wine sauce and grilled potatos None Inside information: This wine was aged for 26 months in 100% new Taransaud oak. The production was 200 cases. Final Verdict: Rich and tasty Napa Cab 88 www.tastingbook.com Average price € 365 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby Nose: Rich, opulent, dark chocolate, cassis Palate: Full-bodied, polished tannins, ripe black currants, warming Finish: Broad, high alcohol, volaptuous In a nutshell: Overwhelming Tasted: 4 times, last in 11/2015 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: None Inside information: The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: Aged with grace 93p Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 2007 92p Fake factor: 2025–2035 Beef Coeur de Filet with smooth roasted porcini sauce and creamed garlic potatos None Inside information: The last vintage of Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard. The production was 178 cases. Final Verdict: A big and jammy Napa Cab 94p Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1996 Average price € 502 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, cherry red Nose: Opulent, seductive, complex, leather, coffee, cedar, forest floor, blueberry Palate: Full-bodied, round tannins, vigor fruity, opulent, toasty, roasted coffee, mint Finish: Long, lingering and tempting In a nutshell: Long, lingering and tempting Tasted: 6 times, last in 7/2016 Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2025 Braised beef with Mushroom Marsala Sauce None Inside information: Total production is 250 cases. The wine was aged 100% new Taransaud oak for 18 months. Final Verdict: A wine from the Herb Lamb glory period

94p Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1994 Average price € 517 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, cherry red Nose: Evolved, ripe, refined, earthy, toasty, spicy, black currants, dark chocolate, roasted coffee Palate: Full-bodied, rich, dense, velvety tannins, vivid acidity, chocolatey Finish: Long, complex and bit tight In a nutshell: A serious wine Tasted: 6 times, last in 7/2016 Decanting time: 1.5 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: Now–2022 Assortment of hard cheeses None Inside information: Total production was 500 cases. Final Verdict: Always a pleasure to have 92p Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2008 Average price € 212 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby to purple Nose: Pronounced, smoky, toasty, tobacco, vanilla, black currant, blackberry Palate: Full-bodied, silky tannins, fragrant falvours, harmonious, gentle spiciness Finish: Delicate, lingering, spicy In a nutshell: Charmingly fragrant Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2014 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Grilled wild boar chops with bacon and mushrooms None Inside information: Total production was 300 cases. Aged 19 months in barrels. Final Verdict: Feminine-style syrah 94p Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2009 FINE Personality TASTING NOTES Average price € 188 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, rich, smoky, seductive, toasty, blueberries, perfumed, violets, white pepper Palate: Full-bodied, supple tannins, vivid fruit, lively acidity, floral, spicy, toasty Finish: Long, lingering and seductive In a nutshell: A benchmark syrah Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2014 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2030 Braised deer fillet with roasted beetroots and herbs None Inside information: Total production was 400 cases. Aged 19 months in barrels. Final Verdict: The best new world syrah that challenges the great Hermitages and Côte-Rôties. 94p Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2005 Average price € 187 (Wine-Searcher): Colour: Deep, ruby red Nose: Rich, smoky, black fruits, blackberry, bacon, pepper, dark chocolate Palate: Full-bodied, elegant, vivid acidity, ripe fruit, refined tannins Finish: Long, spicy and lingering In a nutshell: Complete syrah seduction Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2012 Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Food Pairing: Fake factor: 2020–2025 Roasted spicy vension sausages None Inside information: Total production was 400 cases. Aged 17 months in barrels. Final Verdict: A beefy wine WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 89

COLUMN KEN GARGETT Fine Wine and Memories January 27th. A ny winelover knows only too well that a bottle of fine wine, or even a poor one on occasions, is so much more than a drink. A link to a distant place, a connection to another time in history, to memories, friends and families. It can entwine people from around the globe who’ve never met, who never will. I sit here, on January 27th, looking at an empty old bottle. It is all those things and more. My father, had he lived, would have turned 88 today. He was, to me and I believe to many others, an extraordinary man, though I may have a slightly biased view. Full of boundless energy – excelling at sports, senior lawyer, on every committee, board and organisation imaginable. A very keen fisherman, and an exceptional one, and an enthusiastic card player – though perhaps that was not his greatest talent. Dad was not one for relaxation. The very thought seemed an abhorrence to him. He was never happier than when he could get to the office by 4am, as he knew he would not be bothered by staff, clients, friends and certainly family. I think I was always a complete mystery to him, especially as I was always of the view, and remain resolutely convinced of this, that the only reason to rise prior to 10.00am is for 90 www.tastingbook.com fishing or flights, though I was quite happy to study into the small hours. In fact, we often would pass each other at home. Me heading to bed and him to work. I always thought of him as a man who packed ten normal lifetimes into one relatively short one. No one is perfect. Dad had absolutely no interest in wine. He rarely drank (and nor does Mum). This was no religious or health objection and nor did it run in the family – I remember my grandfather as one who enjoyed fine whisky and a good cigar. Dad simply didn’t enjoy it. He’d have a single rum and milk with fishing buddies or a solitary beer at a wedding, but that was about it. My obsession with wine was utterly unfathomable to him. To his credit, rather than dismiss it, he did try (though fail) to understand it. In later years, he’d read pieces I’d written and always had a number of thoughtful questions, though the answers

FINE Gargett usually left him shaking his head at the sheer stupidity of man wasting time, money and lives over something so trivial. He even tried to find some common ground, seeking a wine he might enjoy, with fleeting success. He came home one day after a legal dinner to tell me he’d finally found a wine he quite liked – something called ‘Barsac’. He was not best pleased when I told him that as a diabetic (late on-set – not a good thing for someone who considered himself bulletproof, and who’d smoked, as so many did from that generation, well into his 50’s), he was never to go near it again. Further evidence of the absurdity of wine. On one occasion, in the mid 80’s, it did all become a little much for him. A good friend, Greg Scott, put together a vertical tasting of Chateau Yquem. It was one of the first times anything like this was attempted (according to Richard Olney’s ‘Yquem’). More than 50 vintages, starting with the 1980. It included every release back to WWII, numerous others back to 1900, with every great vintage of the century represented. Greg limited it to 26 lucky attendees. The Comte Alexandre de Lur Saluces and his wife flew out for it. As did Kit Stephens MW. It was the first time I met some of Australia’s most famous wine men – Len Evans, James Halliday and Michael Hill Smith MW. The Comte brought the then unreleased 1981 with him. He managed to top that by, at the end of the day, declaring that twin vintages must always be drunk together (easy for him to say), pulling a vinous rabbit out of the hat (or more correctly on this occasion, his travelling briefcase) by unveiling a bottle of the 1899 to match the 1900. An extraordinary and truly memorable day. I was an articled clerk when first invited – the event was two years in the planning – earning the less than princely sum of $50 a week. But I had time to save and, while the entry price of $500 for the day (all the wines plus lunch and a magnificent dinner) seems absurdly good value now, it was a financial Everest then. When Dad found out, post event fortunately, he was furious that I had “wasted” that amount of money and made his feelings abundantly clear. Dad passed away shortly after his 65th birthday. Over the previous year, he’d had a series of heart attacks, as so much caught up with him. We were told on a number of occasions, after these events, that he would never leave hospital, but they never reckoned on how stubborn he was. More than one doctor was left ­shaking his head in amazement as he headed off home. The gaps between hospital visits became shorter and shorter. We had him home for his final birthday, though I think we all knew that it was simply a matter of time, but we were determined to make the most of it. A few years earlier, I’d been studying in London and subsequently working in a City law firm. The move to London had denied me the chance to share in the great wines that some extremely generous friends so regularly pulled out of their cellars (we picked up where we’d left off when I returned, and are still meeting at least monthly – they are all as bighearted and generous as ever), but it opened up opportunities to try many other wines I’d never WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 91

encountered. I probably put as much effort into attending tastings, visiting vineyards whenever the opportunity arose, reading every wine magazine and book I could lay my hands on, as I did with my studies (actually, probably a lot more into the wine). I also signed up to every mailing list I could find. My favourite was the ‘Reid Newsletter’ from the famous wine merchants run by Bill Baker. Aside from lots of wonderful wines, it was full of titbits, quotes and all sorts of interesting stuff. As a student, I was never able to buy much, but occasionally I managed to cobble together an order. And on rare occasions, I’d include something that any reasonable audit of my dire financial state would suggest was fiscal insanity. I also spent a fair bit of time at Christie’s, buying wine on behalf of the aforementioned friends. They were stored under the bed in my room at London House at Mecklenburgh Square till I could get them home or they came by to collect. Conditions were never an issue. The room was so cold, I’d put things out on the window sill to warm them up. Friends were much more of a problem. Many was the evening that, post bars closing, I had to explain that the bottle of ‘31 Quinta or ‘59 Romanee-Conti was not for them. Nor, sadly, for me. At least not then. One of the bottles of insanity I purchased from Reid Wines was the 1929 Moulin Touchais, the amazingly long-lived wine from the Anjou in the Loire Valley, and that is the bottle in front of me at the moment. I remember it cost me nearly £30 (interestingly, the only mention I could find of this specific wine on the internet was that a bottle was sold in London at auction a few years later, for £90). The vintage on the large punted, blue-green bottle has almost faded but the label is in top condition. I’d had the bottle shipped back to home with my things as I went off around Africa for a year. Dad was not happy to be paying duty on a box of “rubbish” but did so. I’d included instructions on the storage of my wine, but I doubt he took the slightest notice. 92 www.tastingbook.com In any event, 1929 being Dad’s birth year, his final birthday lunch with the family seemed the ideal time to open it. What I remember of the wine is almost irrelevant – though I do ­recall it being pleasant, drinkable, extremely mature, tiring very quickly, interesting but hardly spectacular. What I most remember is the pleasure Dad got from drinking a wine from the year of his birth. It had never occurred to him that anyone did such strange things. Dad loved the wine, not because of the way it tasted – indeed, he had no reference point as to how it should taste and would have had no clue if it was good, bad or indifferent – but rather for the link it represented to his life. I’ve had older bottles and many wines that were better than this one, but none I’ve treasured quite as much. I met Bill Baker quite a few years later, having moved from a legal career to a liquid one. I was in the Barossa and, after a long lunch with a bunch of friends, we decided we’d visit Charlie Melton. As it happened, Charlie and friends, among them Bill, were enjoying their own long lunch. The afternoon dissolved into a longer, and thoroughly enjoyable, evening. Bill was a larger than life character in every way – whoever described him as ‘Pickwickian’ was spot on – and we had a great chat. At one stage, I mentioned that I had bought the 1929 MT from him. He remembered the wine well and he immediately told me that he hoped I still had it. I asked why. “Because it is now worth about a thousand pounds a bottle”, was the response (Dad would have been very grumpy to know I’d opened a bottle of that value, even if to share with him – and as this was well over a decade ago now, who knows its current price). I told him I did not and what had happened to it. Bill thought the bottle could not have had a better fate and I heartily agreed. That was the only time I met Bill, but I read, years later, that he has passed away in 2008. The date? January 27th! >

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FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes in Text: Essi Avellan MW, Juha Lihtonen Photography: Michael Boudot During the seven consecutive years FINE Champagne has produced the ranking of 100 Best Champagnes, we have crowned a glorious set of winners. In 2010 the title was given to Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV, in 2011 to Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, in 2012 to Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000, in 2013 to Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2000, in 2014 to Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 and last year to Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002. This year we award our first multivintaged prestige cuvée, as Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle claims the title of ‘Best Champagne in 2016’. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 97

Best Champagnes in 2016 C hampagne comes in variable types from prestige cuvées to vintages and non-vintages. Its styles range from blanc de blancs to blanc de noirs, rosés, and alternating sweetness levels. In the following we will guide you to make the best picks for each of the types and styles. Our aim with this annual ranking is to taste the entire offering on the international markets in order to select the champagnes that are showing best this very moment. The most important criterion is the quality of the wine and its accessibility today. In fact, we believe these to be the only characteristics that really matter to the consumer. Any champagne making it into the Top 100 in the rigorous tasting can warmly be recommended. After all, reaching an average blind tasting score of 88 points or higher is a fine achievement. We assess the wines on the 100-point scale. We do not give points for future expectations, which is the reason most top champagne’s points are likely to rise as it approaches maturity. As many age-worthy prestige cuvees are released young, they may not be able to show their true character at this early stage. These are the wines the consumer should forget in the cellar for a number of years and we often mention the wine’s cellaring potential in the verbal evaluation Even though we encourage the producers to enter the most recent releases, any release that is still commercially available anywhere in the world can be considered, even if of limited availability. Contrary to many other wine rankings, this list of the 100 best champagnes is not based on a single tasting; instead, we wish to take into 98 www.tastingbook.com account all of the tastings that we had been privy to during the year. This gives us a comprehensive view of the quality and enjoyability of the wines and allows us to eliminate the odd “bad” bottle from our ratings. For the shortlist we had chosen some 250 champagnes and carried out a blind tasting. Results Average score of the wines making it to the Top 100 list was 90,36 points, even slightly higher than last year. Competition for the top position was tight; the wines from 1 to 5 ended up within a two-point range. The deserving winner by a half-a-point margin was Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV with record-breaking average points from us, 95,75. It has been a consistent performer in the ranking, making its way to 24th position last year. It’s toughest competition came from rosés: the built-to-last Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 and the fantastically well-performing non-vintage Rosé Réserve from Charles Heidsieck. Over all, as many as three Charles Heidsiecks made it to the Top 10 with Brut Réserve at 6th and Blanc des Millénaires at 9th position. Prestige cuvées expectedly occupied the majority of the top spots, and made up around 40 per cent of the whole Top 100 list. The non-vintage wines took an approximate third of the positions, with the first of them – Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve – achieving laudable 3rd position. The other top performers were Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (6th), Henriot Rosé Brut (13th), Canard-Duchêne Brut Rosé (27th), and Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Blanc de Blancs (30th).

FINE 100 Best Champagnes The vintage category is represented on this list by some 25 wines, with Henriot Rosé Millésime 2008 (10th), Palmer & Co Vintage 2008 (12th), Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 (17th), and Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 2006 (20th) amongst the 20 best. Our best grower champagne was Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 (40th), followed closely by two Spécial Clubs, José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2008 (43rd) and Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club 2009 (59th). On the cooperative front Palmer & Co had three champagnes in the coop top three, Vintage 2008 (overall position 12th and the best cooperative champagne), Blanc de Blancs (35th) and Amazon de Palmer (44th). De Saint Gall Orpale 2002 claimed the 14th position while Pannier was the third best cooperative champagne with its 28th position. Top vintages A couple of mature vintages shined in our tasting with their aged mellowness and time-built complexity. Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995, which has long pleased our palates on the markets, is fully mature now but keeping in great form, finishing 9th this year. Duval-Leroy’s majestic 1996 Femme in magnum is probably the finest ever Champagne made by the house. Most 2002’s are gone by now, but we still had a few great examples proving the monumental capacity of this generous vintage: De Saint Gall Orpale (14th), Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé (22nd), G.H. Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou (26th). Released many years after the early birds, Dom Pérignon Rosé (2nd) and Krug Vintage (5th) are making many re-assess the hot, disdained 2003 vintage. Only one 2004 made it on the list of 100 Best, Joseph Perrier Cuvée Joséphine at 79th position. The sun-kissed 2005 delivered several highlights in our tasting: Ayala Perle d'Ayala (32nd), Bollinger La Grande Année (42nd) and Charles Heidsieck Vintage (46th). There were a dazzling 22 champagnes from the generous and muscular 2006 amongst our 100 best. The biggest joy was delivered by Dom Pérignon Brut (4th), Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (8th), Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame (10th), Deutz Cuvée William Deutz (15th) and Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé (17th). Contrasingly only five 2007 made it on the list with Dampierre Family Reserve (16th), DuvalLeroy Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée (49th) and Gosset Célébris Rosé Extra Brut (58th) as the three best. The coolly elegant and energetic 2008 had Henriot Rosé Millésime (10th), Palmer & Co Vintage (12th), José Michel & Fils Spécial Club (43rd) and Taittinger Millésime (45th) as its best performers. The harmonious and supple 2009 offered pleasure in the form of Louis Roederer Rosé (23rd), Deutz Vintage (51st) and Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs (56th). 2010’s sole successful champagne was Doyard’s single-vineyard blanc de blancs Clos de l'Abbaye. The same Vertus grower was even more successful with its 2011 Oeil de Perdrix rosé finishing as high as 40th. The annual list of the 100 best champagnes available on the markets is based on tastings and ratings by FINE Champagne Magazine’s editorial team and selected expert guest judges. The final point score of each wine consists of the average of the blind tastings. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 99

100 Best Champagnes in 2016 Ranking 100 1– 25 Points 1 Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV 96 2 Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 95 3 Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV 94 4 Dom Pérignon Brut 2006 94 5 Krug Vintage 2003 94 6 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 94 7 Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne magnum 1996 93 8 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006 93 9 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 93 10 Henriot Rosé Millésime 2008 93 10 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2006 93 12 Palmer & Co Vintage 2008 92 13 Henriot Rosé Brut NV 92 14 De Saint Gall Orpale 2002 92 15 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 2006 92 16 Dampierre Family Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2007 92 17 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 92 18 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2006 92 19 Louis Roederer Cristal 2006 92 20 Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 2006 92 21 Alexandre Penet Millésime Extra Brut 2006 92 22 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 92 23 Louis Roederer Rosé 2009 92 24 Deutz Amour de Deutz Rosé 2006 92 25 Henriot Millésime 2006 92 www.tastingbook.com

Points 26 G.H. Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou 2002 91 27 Canard-Duchêne Brut Rosé NV 91 28 Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2006 91 29 Thiénot Cuvée Stanislas Blanc de Blancs 2006 91 30 Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Blanc de Blancs NV 91 31 Pierre Mignon Année de Madame Millésime 2006 91 32 Ayala Perle d'Ayala 2005 91 33 G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs Mumm de Cramant NV 91 34 De Saint Gall Demi-Sec NV 91 35 Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs NV 91 36 Gosset Grand Millésime Brut 2006 91 37 Krug Grande Cuvée NV 91 38 Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs NV 91 39 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006 91 40 Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 91 41 Deutz Amour de Deutz 2006 90 42 Bollinger La Grande Année 2005 90 43 José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2008 90 44 Palmer & Co Amazon de Palmer NV 90 45 Taittinger Millésime 2008 90 46 Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2005 90 47 Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé NV 90 48 Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV 90 49 Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée 2007 90 50 Pierre Mignon Harmonie de Blancs Grand Cru Millésime 2008 90 WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE 100 Best Champagnes Ranking 26 – 50 101

100 Best Champagnes in 2016 102 Ranking 51–75 Points 51 Deutz Vintage 2009 90 52 Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Prestige 2006 90 53 Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 90 54 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2005 90 55 Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV 90 56 Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2009 90 57 Canard-Duchêne Brut Authentic Vintage 2008 90 58 Gosset Célébris Rosé Extra Brut 2007 90 59 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club 2009 90 60 De Saint Gall Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV 90 61 Boizel Grand Vintage 2007 90 62 Louis Roederer Vintage 2008 90 63 Jacques Rousseaux Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs NV 90 64 Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru NV 89 65 Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Millésime 2006 89 66 Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2008 89 67 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Brut 2006 89 68 Lanson Gold Label 2008 89 69 Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV 89 70 Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial NV 89 71 Ayala Rosé Majeur Brut NV 89 72 Armand de Brignac Blanc de Blancs NV 89 73 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Oger Grand Cru Brut NV 89 74 De Saint Gall Premier Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs NV 89 75 Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV 89 www.tastingbook.com

76 –100 Points 76 Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV 89 77 Ruinart Rosé Brut NV 89 78 Krug Rosé NV 89 79 Joseph Perrier Cuvée Joséphine 2004 89 80 Palmer & Co Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 89 81 Taittinger Brut Réserve NV 89 82 Ayala Brut Majeur NV 89 83 Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut NV 89 84 Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV 89 85 Pommery Grand Cru 2005 89 86 Roland Champion Carte Blanche Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 89 87 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Brut 2007 89 88 Paul Bara Special Club 2005 89 89 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2006 89 90 Alfred Gratien Brut NV 89 91 Deutz Rosé Brut NV 88 92 Bollinger Rosé NV 88 93 Doyard Clos de l'Abbaye Premier Cru Extra Brut 2010 88 94 Collet Millésime 2006 88 95 De Castelnau Réserve Brut NV 88 96 Collet Esprit Couture Brut NV 88 97 Georges Cartier Première Cuvée Brut NV 88 98 Blondel Premier Cru Cuvée Prestige Brut NV 88 99 Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Brut Rosé NV 88 100 Pol Roger Rosé 2008 88 WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE 100 Best Champagnes Ranking 103

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 1 2 96p Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV Colour: Bright lemony Nose: Stylish nose with ample yeastderived complexity. Lovely gunpowdery and toasty nuances. Palate: Super smooth, complex palate. Lots of minerality and sulphitic complexity. Ending: Long, lingering, pure and full of explosive freshness. In a nutshell: Age-built complexity meets impeccable freshness When to drink: 2016–2025 Food pairing: Whitefish Walewska Final verdict: A class act Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV Colour: Developed onion skin Nose: Lovely, wild, evolved Pinot fruit on the exuberant nose. Spicy with baking spices, leather and baked peach. Palate: Full-on satiny palate with so much built-in complexity Ending: Full of fruit and a caressingly textured In a nutshell: Such concentration and integration When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Seared tuna with mushrooms and linguini Final verdict: Essence of complexity 104 www.tastingbook.com Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 Colour: Deep cherry Nose: Rich, generous, plush Pinot nose with lovely spicy touches and explosive raspberry fruit. Full, winey body with spicy richness. Palate: Strong, big palate coming with a notion of tannin. Ending: Long and silky, winey finish with a stylish phenolic bite. In a nutshell: Soothingly evolved and winey When to drink: 2016–2025 Food pairing: Saltimbocca alla Romana Final verdict: All about Pinot 4 3 94p 95p 94p Dom Pérignon Brut 2006 Colour: Youthfully greentoned Nose: Expressive yeast-laden perfumy nose with peaches, vanilla, coffee and cream Palate: Plush, round, satiny, beautifully textured Ending: Sweetly fruity and beguiling In a nutshell: Round and soothing When to drink: 2016–2030 Food pairing: Pan-fried scallops with lime and crispy pancetta Final verdict: Generous and hugely enjoyable

5 94p Krug Vintage 2003 6 Colour: Developing goldtoned lemon Nose: Ample dried fruit nose with lovely spiciness and classy toasty edge Palate: Mouthcoatingly rich and textured Ending: Persistent with vinosity taking the lead role In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 7 93p Nose: Stylish pastry and vanilla-lined nose with lots of ageing richness: coffee, cream and a melangé of spices. Palate: Lovely acidity bites through the rich body Ending: Great, complex length with velvet smoothness In a nutshell: Layers upon layers When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Fettucine with white truffles 2016–2030 Vitello Tonnato As rich as it gets 8 Colour: Bright lemony Palate: Cheerful, playful palate full of energy. Zesty acidity but it is in line with the crisp, pristine fruitiness of the wine. Ending: Persistent, seamless and soft, still coming with a drive. In a nutshell: Pleasurable and building its way to the top. When to drink: 2016–2030 9 93p Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 Colour: Evolving lemony colour with golden hues 93p Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006 In a nutshell: When to drink: Sole Meunier Final verdict: Sheer perfection with ages ahead of it. Final verdict: A whole cellar in one bottle Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Pure, pristine creamy nose with crystal clear fruitiness, lemon, vanilla, white flowers and fireworks Palate: Lovely feather-light fluffy palate Ending: Lemony-floral perfumy length which carries on and on Nose: Charmer nose with beautiful fireworks, peach, marmalade and orange blossom layers Food pairing: Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 94p Colour: Evolving gold-toned lemon Lots of age-built complexity Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne magnum 1996 10 Polished to perfection 2016–2025 Food pairing: Seared Scallops with a ChampagneVanilla Butter Sauce Final verdict: The unbearable lightness of Comtes 93p Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2006 Colour: Evolving lemony color with golden hues Nose: Come-hither toasty nose with generous coffee richness, and impressively intense dried fruits honey and vanilla complexity Nose: Stylishly restrained, mildly toasty nose with toffee, ample red fruit, nuts, herbacious aromas and gunpowdery coolness. Palate: Super smooth palate, beyond velvety Ending: Mouth-coating, sweet and supple In a nutshell: Peaking perfectly Palate: Round and muscular palate with power behind Ending: The palate gets lifted by the fine acidity at the finish In a nutshell: Muscular with style When to drink: 2016–2028 When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Crevettes au pastis et risotto au fenouil Final verdict: Liquid gold FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 Food pairing: Blinis & Caviar Final verdict: All pieces at place WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 105

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 10 93p Henriot Rosé Millésime 2008 12 Colour: Beautifully peachy and evolving Nose: The super toasty coffee-toned nose takes one by surprise in contrast to the delicate colour Palate: Light-bodied yet packed with fruit and flavour Ending: Soft, vibrant and complex In a nutshell: Super stylish When to drink: 2016–2026 Food pairing: Final verdict: 92p Palmer & Co Vintage 2008 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Refined, squeaky clean nose with superb gunpowdery character and opulent toasty generosity. Palate: Plenty of bright succulent fruit on the round, fleshy, smooth, muscular palate with good tension. Ending: Fine fruity length with invigorating freshness In a nutshell: Plenty of potential here When to drink: 2016–2028 Food pairing: Chicken Caesar Salad Lobster Bisque Pure joy Final verdict: Cool and nervy 13 92p Henriot Rosé Brut NV 14 Colour: Medium-deep peachy De Saint Gall Orpale 2002 Colour: Deep golden Nose: Soft, toasty nose with lovely sweet charred notes and delicious ageing characters in opulence. Palate: Layered, mellow palate which still has lovely freshness and energy to it Ending: Long, elegantly lingering Nose: Wooing toasty vanilla-laden nose with dried apricot and honey sweetness. Palate: Sweet super intense palate with brightness of fruit and vibrancy. Ending: Full on life and invigorating In a nutshell: Great harmony of aged and fresh elements When to drink: 2016–2023 Food pairing: 92p In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Tuna Carpaccio with Citrus-Ginger Dressing Final verdict: Peaking now 2016–2021 Crayfish risotto Grandeur Final verdict: Wake up call 15 92p Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 2006 Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Strong, positively reductive nose of a gunpowdery undertone, Asian spices, rich red fruit character and fine toastiness. Palate: Refined creamy-zesty palate full of life Ending: Long and focused with a energising cool breeze to the palate In a nutshell: Fine mix of aromas in harmony When to drink: 2016–2026 Food pairing: Pan-fried swordfish fillet Final verdict: 106 www.tastingbook.com Fresh as a daisy 16 92p Dampierre Family Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2007 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: There is a mild vanilla and cream cheese note alongside crisp white fruit profile with faint toastiness Palate: Creamy, fresh and harmonious Ending: Long, lean and crisp with plenty of drive In a nutshell: Pure When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Grilled Tiger Prawns with Final verdict: Textbook blanc de blancs

17 92p Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 18 Colour: Medium-deep cherry Nose: Lovely, deep, vinous spicy-toasty red berry nose with cherry fruit, coffee, earthy notes and oriental spices Palate: Smoky and for the time being tight, reductive palate with plenty of built-in power Ending: Persistent and winey In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 19 92p Colour: Glossy pale colour with peachy hues Nose: Elegant nose, sweetly fruity with peachy tone prevailing alongside toast, cream and red fruit tones. Palate: Silky, fresh, light-weight-palate, the creamiest soft mousse and textured mouth-feel Ending: Fresh, lingering, purifying finish In a nutshell: Elementally elegant When to drink: 2016–2030 Food pairing: Duck carpaccio with sea urchin foam, romanesco and lotus root crisp Forget it to cellar for a few years 2016–2025 Lobster Benedict Unashamedly Pinot Louis Roederer Cristal 2006 20 Colour: Lemony youthful colour Final verdict: Spot on from the beginning to the end 92p Palate: Impeccably intense yet lightweight on the stylish palate of enhanced acidity. Ending: Long, mouth-watering and squeaky clean In a nutshell: Polished and refined 2016–2036 When to drink: Food pairing: Toast Skagen with caviar In a nutshell: Oozing fruit When to drink: 2016–2025 Food pairing: Final verdict: Transparency Final verdict: 22 92p Alexandre Penet Millésime Extra Brut 2006 Colour: Medum-deep lemon Nose: Lovely rich, toasty and coffeeladen nose with lots of yeasty complexity Palate: Overt, round spicy and turboboosted with fruit Ending: Long fruity length In a nutshell: Fine balance of fruit and ageing characters When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Fresh oysters Final verdict: Shining Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 2006 Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Gorgeous, toasty nose with lovely coffee and cream notes and evolving Pinot exuberance. Palate: Vinous fresh palate with exemplary intensity and richness of texture Ending: Long, plush acid lined finish. Nose: Mild, restrained nose with layers of sulphitic complexity, gunpowder, ripe fresh peaches and toast. 21 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2006 92p FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 92p Pan-fried salmon with chanterelle raviolis Climbing its way up Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Lots of coffee and toasty tones on the intensely fruity nose with animally, spicy and yeasty complexity. Palate: Winey yet tight palate with gorgeous, driven acidity. Ending: Nervy, fresh and lingering In a nutshell: Still in its youth When to drink: 2016–2034 Food pairing: Pigeon with cep risotto Final verdict: Burgundian WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 107

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 23 92p Louis Roederer Rosé 2009 24 Colour: Pale peachy-pink Nose: Elegant, layered nose of peach, vanilla and lemon. Palate: Silky with explosive fruitiness and invigorating freshness Ending: Refined and supple In a nutshell: When to drink: Colour: Medium-deep peach Nose: Stylish fresh berry-lead nose with vanilla, roasted coffee and spices. Palate: Caressingly textured and fleshy, vinous yet crisp. Ending: Pure and fresh In a nutshell: Lovely Pinot exuberance When to drink: 2016–2025 Food pairing: Prosciutto-wrapped fried scallops with truffle-oil flavoured fettucini Truly elegant 2016–2026 Food pairing: Chevre-gratinated portobellos Final verdict: A palate cleanser Deutz Amour de Deutz Rosé 2006 92p Final verdict: Fleshy yet fresh 25 92p Henriot Millésime 2006 26 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Palate: Exuberantly fruity also on the palate that has great energy and zestiness Ending: Long, lean and fresh finish of great purity In a nutshell: When to drink: In a nutshell: Beautiful toast and gunpowder complexity When to drink: 2016–2026 27 Grilled pike-pearch with creamed morels Final verdict: Classy 91p Canard-Duchêne Brut Rosé NV Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Sweet apricot nose with light toasty-smoky undertone. Palate: Fresh, fleshy and lively coming with a good dose of energy Ending: Squeaky clean and elegant In a nutshell: Succulent fruitiness When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Sushi assortment Final verdict: Ease and elegance G.H. Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou 2002 Colour: Deep golden Nose: Mild refined nose with some gunpowdery notes. Soft candy and vanilla sweetness. Palate: Fine intensity on the ample palate that shows a degree of stylish restraint Ending: Fruit-packed and enhanced Nose: Sweet, mouth-wateringly delicious nose on the reductive side. Fragrant and fruity with gorgeous mineral and toasty layers alongside vanilla and coffee tones. Food pairing: 91p Food pairing: Final verdict: 28 91p Plenty of character 2016–2026 Crab cakes with remoulade Impeccable harmony Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2006 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Powerful overt nose with ripe red and white fruit Palate: Strong, spicy taste with a curiously sweet character Ending: Long-lasting voluptuous palate with just enough freshness to breath life to the concentrated fruity palate. In a nutshell: Fine caressing mousse When to drink: 2016–2024 Food pairing: Pan-fried whitefish with lemon butter sauce Final verdict: A character of its own 108 www.tastingbook.com

29 30 91p Thiénot Cuvée Stanislas Blanc de Blancs 2006 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Creamy, stylish vanilla-laden fruity nose with lemon and apple alongside a salty mineral touch. Very light toasty undertone. Palate: Layered, concentrated, round palate Ending: Velvet-smooth and lingering In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 31 91p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: There is a sweet candied tone to the tropical fruity, charred, coffee and gunpowder nose. Palate: Rich, soft, overt palate, a bit loose and fluffy Ending: Gently advancing, mellow finish In a nutshell: Fireworks of aromas When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Crispy king prawns with lime and ginger Great spine and purity 2016–2023 Waldorf salad All you need from a blanc de blancs Pierre Mignon Année de Madame Millésime 2006 Final verdict: Sweet and seductive 32 91p Ayala Perle d'Ayala 2005 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Full-on, charred spiciness-lead nose with gingerbread and oriental notes and a mild oxidative and earthy tone. Palate: Winey and concentrated, speaking of ripeness Ending: Generous and long Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Curious, zesty lemony nose with chalky mineral notes and marmalade richness. Palate: Firm, dry and focused Ending: Zingy with a lemony bite In a nutshell: In a nutshell: Fresh as seabreeze When to drink: 2016–2020 When to drink: Food pairing: Food pairing: Grilled sole with dumplings and lemon sauce Final verdict: Final verdict: Personality of its own 33 Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Blanc de Blancs NV 91p FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 Maturing quickly 2016–2021 Grilled turbot with mushroom canneloni Plush and plump 34 91p G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs Mumm de Cramant NV Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Creamy-toasty nose with vanilla, wax and white flowers alongside sulphitic notes. Palate: Tight, fresh palate with caressing, creamy mousse. Ending: Pure, coolly fruity length In a nutshell: Crispy and zesty When to drink: 2016–2023 Food pairing: Nigiri assortment with sepia, salmon and prawn Final verdict: Beautifully light yet intense 91p De Saint Gall Demi-Sec NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Stylish, candy-toned, refinedly charred with marshmallow and vanilla characters. Palate: Plush, fresh and lively Ending: Medium-long, notably sweet but in a fine balance In a nutshell: Attractive sweet character When to drink: 2016–2019 Food pairing: Foie gras canapés with pickled apricot Final verdict: Sweet but super fresh WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 109

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 35 91p Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs NV 36 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Expressive, bright fruity nose with superb toasty overtone to the plush tropical fruit, gunpowder and cream nose. Palate: Intense, linear, fruit-packed palate Ending: Crispy clean, dry and full of life In a nutshell: Age-derived complexity When to drink: 2016–2023 Food pairing: Final verdict: 37 91p Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Stylish, rich, ripe red fruit, confectionary, toast, spearmint and yeast nose. Palate: Tart, zesty and clean palate with good ripeness of fruit coming with a faint oxidative note. Ending: Energetic with both power and precision In a nutshell: Long and focused When to drink: 2016–2023 Food pairing: Sauteed tiger prawns with lemongrass noodles Truffle profiteroles Polished to perfection Krug Grande Cuvée NV 38 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Palate: Concentrated and velvetycaressing Ending: Persistent, boosted and exuberantly fruity In a nutshell: Seamless Food pairing: 2016–2030 91p Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, fresh white fruit nose with lovely gunpowdery complexity alongside a green positively vegetal tone. Palate: Impressively muscular with softness of texture and fruity opulence Ending: Stylishly long and seamless In a nutshell: Pretty perfumy tones complement the whole When to drink: 2016–2026 110 www.tastingbook.com Food pairing: Prawn pasta with coriander and lime Final verdict: All pieces at place 91p Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs NV In a nutshell: Grilled monkfish with buttery lemon sauce When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: Layered and sophisticated 39 Final verdict: Plenty of delicious fruit. Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Mild refined red fruit nose with apples, spices, honey and apricot, there is an elegant restraint to the nose. Palate: Overt round, fleshy and spicy palate full of exuberant Pinot fruit. Ending: Very long, lingering and plush, perfectly dosed with smooth easiness to it Nose: Strong, oak-complexed white fruit nose with spicy notes, yeast and baked apple. When to drink: Gosset Grand Millésime Brut 2006 91p 40 Final verdict: 91p Instantly appealing 2016–2021 Beetroot-salmon tartar Pinot power Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 Colour: Pretty, pale peachy with a yellow hue Nose: Characterful apricot and apple nose with mild spicy and chalky-earthy undertones and a light oaky note Palate: Fleshy and chewy palate where accentuated acidity brings welcome crispness and firmness Ending: Very dry finish with a touch of phenolics enhancing the gastronomic character In a nutshell: Positively energetic When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Grilled LemonBasil Snapper with Roasted Peppers Final verdict: Elegant and gastronomic at the same time

41 42 90p 90p Deutz Amour de Deutz 2006 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Mild creamy white fruit profile with vanilla-laden fruit and gentle spicy toastiness emerging. Palate: Soft and round, fluffy palate, highly creamy in texture Ending: Elegantly lingering In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: 43 Final verdict: 90p Colour: Medium-deep peachhued colour Nose: Strong, charred, characterful nose with a notable oxidative tone and explosive super-ripe fruitiness. Palate: Full and viscous, oily, concentrated palate Ending: Textured and long In a nutshell: Gastronomic and oak-lined When to drink: 2016–2027 Food pairing: Grilled swordfish in apple-tarragon sauce Attractive with easiness 2016–2023 White asparagus with smoked salmon and hollandaise sauce Beautiful lightness José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2008 Final verdict: Massive and winey 44 Nose: Stylishly charred but mild and creamy nose with plenty of pristine white fruit. Palate: Intense, well-built palate with crispy tension Ending: Long, nicely balanced finish In a nutshell: Fine energy and drive When to drink: 2016–2024 90p Smoked whitefish with potato salad Taittinger Millésime 2008 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Elegantly restrained nose oozing white flowers, lemon and vanilla. Palate: Crisp and zingy, very elegant. Ending: Invigoratingly nervy with saline chracter In a nutshell: Behind the restraint and coolness hides plenty of red and white fruit When to drink: 2016–2030 Food pairing: Fettucine al limone e scampi grigliati Final verdict: Satiny and pure Palmer & Co Amazon de Palmer NV In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: Expressively fruity 45 90p Colour: Medium-deep and gold-hued Nose: Full-on, super toasty nose with an earthy-spicy note, coffee, cream and vanilla. Palate: Opulent, smooth-textured and seamless, coming with a beautiful acid line Ending: Long, velvety and caressing Colour: Pale lemon Food pairing: Bollinger La Grande Année 2005 FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 46 Final verdict: 90p Fully mature and ready to go 2016–2019 Salmon pastrami with Red Cabbage & Green Apple Slaw Burgundian Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2005 Colour: Developing goldhued lemon colour Nose: Pronounced honeyed and dried fruit nose with spice, coffee and yeast complexity. Palate: Lots of evolution on the palate too with mellowness, vinosity and voluptuousness Ending: Concentrated and lingering In a nutshell: Open and generous When to drink: 2016–2025 Food pairing: Sesame Crusted Tuna with Endive salad Final verdict: Come-hither charm WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 111

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 47 90p Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé NV 48 Colour: Medium-deep with cherry tones Nose: Deeply fruity nose with opulent berried richness. Palate: Winey and spicy with silkiness of texture but firmness from a stylish phenolic bite Ending: Fruity, lingering finish In a nutshell: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Vorschmack Final verdict: 49 90p Open and ready to charm Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée 2007 Colour: Medium-deep cherry Palate: Zippy yet ample firm palate with lovely focused fruitiness Ending: Medium-long and full of fruit In a nutshell: Plenty of Pinot depth When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Feta and chicken couscous with vine tomatos and mint Final verdict: Fleshy and firm 50 90p Palate: Full, round and winey palate that surprises with its freshness Ending: Long and concentrated with some tannin kicking at the very end In a nutshell: So much character 51 2016–2026 Food pairing: Truffled veal carpaccio Final verdict: Divides opinion 90p Deutz Vintage 2009 Colour: Bright lemony Nose: Ripe plush yet elegantly subtle nose of apple, yeast and spice. Palate: Friendly, velvety and succulent Ending: Firm fresh and fruity In a nutshell: Plenty of instant appeal When to drink: 2016–2024 Food pairing: Final verdict: Smoked whitefish with green aspargus Caressing Pierre Mignon Harmonie de Blancs Grand Cru Millésime 2008 Colour: Medium-deep lemon colour Nose: Soft and mild, bright fruity nose with white fruit, cream and meadowy fragrance. Palate: Crisp, vibrant palate with lightweight feel but with inherent intensity. Ending: Dry, pure finish with stylish toastiness lingering toasty note Colour: Super deep colour Nose: Boostedly burgundian nose all about highly characterful Pinot fruit, coffee, spice and tea note. When to drink: Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV Nose: Stylish, fruity but a a touch restrained nose, stone fruits, toffee and spice. Lots of hidden power and perfect fruit purity When to drink: 90p In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: 52 Final verdict: 90p Elegance, sophisticated style 2016–2025 Vongole pasta with prosciutto Fine harmonious whole Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Prestige 2006 Colour: Deep lemon Nose: Stylish, layered and refined nose with soft toastiness and gingerbread and fresh ginger notes. Palate: Sweet palate, soft, velvety and chewy Ending: Lingering but on the sweet side In a nutshell: Lovely richness of fruit on the palate When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Jerusalem artichoke soup with bacon Final verdict: Easy to like 112 www.tastingbook.com

53 54 90p 90p Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Beautifully fresh and pure nose with ample pristine fruitiness in absence of any oxidative tones Palate: Fleshy and zesty at the same time Ending: Fruit-forward and invigorating In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 55 90p Colour: Medium-deep cherry colour with emerging onionskin tones Nose: Stylish, spicy-fruity nose with a degree of restraint. The oaky note comes more prominent on the palate with an oxidative notion. Palate: Strong, winey and structured Ending: Persistent, weighty finish In a nutshell: Muscular and masculine. When to drink: 2016–2026 Food pairing: Smoked eel with beetroot chips Lemony and lively 2016–2023 Grilled mackerels with escalivada Generous but super fresh Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV 56 Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Palate: Light-bodied yet intense, fresh palate with a gunpowdery mineral finish Ending: Mellow, fresh with generous, balanced dosage In a nutshell: Polished and pristine Food pairing: 57 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Expressive nose with bright yellow fruit, vanilla, croissant and lemon. Palate: Juicy succulent palate, linear and energetic. Ending: Sweet fruitiness, fine firm body and enough energy In a nutshell: Boosted fruitiness showing some evolution When to drink: 2016–2024 Final verdict: Grilled prawns with lemongrass noodles Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2009 In a nutshell: When to drink: Lots more to come 2016–2029 Food pairing: Jerusalem artichoke risotto with scallops Final verdict: Fine complexity and character evolving Baked whitefish with pea purée Canard-Duchêne Brut Authentic Vintage 2008 Food pairing: 90p 2016–2021 Final verdict: Toasty exuberance 90p Final verdict: Beautifully burgundian Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Stylish, sweet, ripe fruity nose with plenty of character, herbacious layers, toast and cream as well as fireworks. Palate: Firm, chewy yet fresh palate with boosed soft fruity appeal Ending: Long and seamless Nose: Gentle, clean and precise soft white fruit nose with peach, lemon and melon nuances. Beautiful leesy depth and toasty complexity. When to drink: Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2005 FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 58 90p Gosset Célébris Rosé Extra Brut 2007 Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Stylish, evolved, spicy-leathery red fruit and apple nose with plenty of character. Palate: Fresh, vibrant and firm palate full of explosive fruit Ending: Long and very dry In a nutshell: Succulent, delicious fruitiness When to drink: 2016–2026 Food pairing: Whitefish escabeche Final verdict: A great gastronomic rosé Neatly made and beautifully fresh WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 113

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 59 90p Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club 2009 60 Colour: Medium-deep bright lemony colour Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Strong, ripe Chardonnay nose with a tropical fruit profile with ginger, cream and hazelnutty complexity. Palate: Beautifully pristine fruitiness. Fullon from beginning to the end. Ending: Dynamic palate with stylish zestiness but fine-tuned and perfectly harmonious In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: 61 Final verdict: 90p Nose: Stylishly soft and creamy toast enriched nose with lemon curd and mild spicy tones. Palate: Fine, intense palate with stylishly creamy mousse Ending: Long, very dry and nervy In a nutshell: Beautiful mineral salinity When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Shrimp coctail Lots of ageing layers 2016–2029 Final verdict: Linear, driven Chardonnay Fresh oysters Dynamic Boizel Grand Vintage 2007 62 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Palate: Overt, fleshy, round and zesty positively characterful palate Ending: Long with boosted fruitiness In a nutshell: The bold palate much compensates for the bruised notes of the nose. When to drink: 2016–2022 90p Jacques Rousseaux Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs NV Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Ample fruitiness on the lifted, oak-lined nose with Pinot depth and power. Palate: Big, generous palate, voluptuous and smooth-textured Ending: Long lingering and fresh In a nutshell: Muscular power When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Trout with brown butter and almonds Final verdict: Unashamedly bold Louis Roederer Vintage 2008 In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Grilled snapper with caper sauce 63 90p Colour: Bright lemon colour with golden tones Nose: Still somewhat closed nose taking time to open. Pristine white and red fruit emerging lined with a delicious toasty note. Palate: Tight, fruit-packed palate with plenty of energy and tension promising good Ending: Fresh, tart lemony finish Nose: Exuberantly fruity nose with apple, toffee, yeast and spice dominating and there is a muted oxidative layer to the wine. Final verdict: Explosively fruity De Saint Gall Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV 90p Food pairing: 64 Final verdict: 89p Come back to this in a few years' time 2016–2032 Pan-fried sweet bread with spring vegetables Puristic Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru NV Colour: Medium-deep peachy-salmon colour Nose: Beautifully fine-tuned, fresh, elegant toast-complexed nose despite plenty of Pinot character. Palate: Refined zingy palate with supple fruitiness with a fluffy mousse Ending: Crisp, succulent and vivacious In a nutshell: Pleasurable and easy to enjoy but classy When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Pan-fried ray wing with capers and parsley butter Final verdict: Fresh and vivacious 114 www.tastingbook.com

65 66 de Bellefon Cuvée des 89p Besserat Moines Millésime 2006 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, appetite awakening nose with lemon, vanilla cream, coco and toast complexity Palate: Squeaky clean fruit profile with suitable intensity without being heavy Ending: Soft and creamy with lemony freshness and even methol coolness to it In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 67 89p Nose: Soft, vanilla and pastry nose with red fruit opulence and a mild spicy note to it. Palate: There is stylish restraint to the fruity, bold and firm palate Ending: Balanced with good freshness and intense, lingering finish In a nutshell: Still in its youth When to drink: 2016–2029 Food pairing: Fillet of John Dory with globe artichokes, anchovy and capers Fresh and lively 2016–2023 Sushi plate Pristinely crafted Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Brut 2006 68 Nose: There is promising elegant restraint on the nose, lemons and apples with raspberry lemonade and soft spiciness. Palate: The palate has a surprising shyness at this stage Ending: Ripe, bold fruitiness and soothing, balanced dosage In a nutshell: Strong, overt style which still craves some more time When to drink: 2016–2025 69 Grilled lobster with Vanilla Beurre Blanc Final verdict: Generous 89p Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Plush, exuberant, evolving nose of sweet vanilla, lemon and ripe apple coming a light oxidative note. Palate: Sweet generous palate, weighty with an oily smooth character to it Ending: Good freshness on the sweet finish In a nutshell: Easiness combined to pleasurable ageing characters When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Final verdict: Asparagus risotto with smoked salmon Final verdict: Depth and drive 89p Lanson Gold Label 2008 Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Plush, exuberant, evolving nose of sweet vanilla, lemon and ripe apple coming with a light oxidative note. Palate: Zesty and succulent, has character and freshness Ending: Long with fine salinity Colour: Pale lemon Food pairing: Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2008 FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: Positively tart and invigorating 2016–2028 Tempura langoustine tails Welcoming 70 89p Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fragrant and sweetly spicy ripe apple and candy nose. Palate: Fruity and plush, wide, rounded medium-sweet palate Ending: Long, nicely balanced finish In a nutshell: Succulent, sweet and generous When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Thai red curry with prawns Final verdict: Sweet fruit bomb Voluptuous WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 115

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 71 89p Ayala Rosé Majeur Brut NV 72 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Fresh, youthful, invigoratingly clean and crisp nose with elegant red fruit overtone. Palate: Zesty, firm and full of positive energy Ending: Fresh, long and fruit-forward In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: 73 Final verdict: 89p Nose: Some lifted notes on the rich, super ripe nose of white fruit, yellow apple and vanilla. Palate: Strong, characterful palate, winey and viscous and concentrated Ending: Long, sweet and silky In a nutshell: Silky-smooth and caressing When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Fresh oysters, mackerel and apple Nervy and vivacious 2016–2021 Beetroot and goat’s cheese salad with multi-seed biscuit A harmonious whole Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Oger Grand Cru Brut NV Final verdict: A big wine for blanc de blancs 74 89p Nose: Elegantly restrained, cool white fruit profile with chalky mineral tones. Palate: Explosively fruity on the light yet intense palate oozing lemon, lime and white flowers Ending: Appetising lemony bite at the very end In a nutshell: In a nutshell: All about Chardonnay When to drink: 2016–2026 When to drink: Food pairing: Moules marinière Final verdict: Final verdict: So much drive and vivacity 75 89p Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV Colour: Brigh lemon-gold colour Nose: Fresh, exuberantly and brightly fruity nose with apple, lemon, apricot, pastry and honey. Palate: Zesty palate with plenty of fruit Ending: Zingy lemon and lime finish In a nutshell: Pristine and pleasurable When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Final verdict: 116 www.tastingbook.com Shellfish bisque with cream and champagne Fine succulent fruitiness De Saint Gall Premier Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Stylishly creamy floral and citrussy, classic Chardonnay nose. Palate: Elegantly vivacious and smooth textured palate with racy acidity Ending: Long and suitably dosed Colour: Pale lemon Food pairing: Armand de Brignac Blanc de Blancs NV 89p 76 89p Crisp and clean 2016–2019 Deep-fried haddock and mushy peas Textbook material Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Very pure white fruit nose with lovely toasty notes, lemon, flowers and candied tones. Palate: Soft, mellow creamy palate, plush yet fresh Ending: Lovely long balanced length In a nutshell: Essence of purity When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Seared sea bass with lemon and herb butter Final verdict: Soft and velvety

77 78 89p Ruinart Rosé Brut NV 89p Colour: Medium-deep cherry colour Nose: Plush cherry fruit on the expressive nose, youthful with an spicy edge Palate: Velvety and full of fruit Ending: Long, sweet and silky finish with a stylish tannic touch at the end In a nutshell: When to drink: 79 Final verdict: Elegantly berried 89p Nose: Strong oak-laden Pinot nose. Spicy and animally, intriguing. Palate: Rich, voluptuous, velvety palate with a winey structure Ending: Endless with perfect harmony In a nutshell: Muscular and well-built When to drink: 2016–2030 Food pairing: Duck al' Orange 2016–2020 Pan-fried slip soles with spiced brown shrimp butter Joseph Perrier Cuvée Joséphine 2004 Final verdict: Soulful Champagne 80 Nose: Stylishly waxy, raisin, apricot, baked apple, cinnamon and christmas pudding nose. Palate: Has evolved and opened on the substantial, yet still tight palate Ending: Long, focused but tight 89p Taittinger Brut Réserve NV Colour: Bright lemony Nose: Sweetly fruity, youthful nose with peach and apple alongside a perfumy twist. Palate: Straight-forward fruity palate, zingy and lively Ending: Suitably balanced and long enough In a nutshell: An all-round champagne When to drink: 2016–2021 Food pairing: Final verdict: Cold-smoked salmon and green asparagus Dances on the palate Plush and generous When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Pata Negra Final verdict: Fillet of halibut with shellfish raviolo and shaved truffle Final verdict: Tight as a fist Palmer & Co Blanc de Noirs Brut NV In a nutshell: In a nutshell: Much more aroma development than palate When to drink: 2016–2029 81 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Stylish, fragrant red berry, peach and apple nose with superb toastiness and spicy complexity Palate:Round, fleshy and concentrated Ending: Sweetly fruity and caressing Colour: Medium-deep lemon Food pairing: Krug Rosé NV Colour: Medium-deep peachy colour Nervy and vivacious Food pairing: FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 Full of delicious fruit 82 89p Ayala Brut Majeur NV Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Mild, cleanly fruity nose with soft toastiness lining the pure, ripe fruitiness. Palate: Fresh, mellow, creamy palate with sophisticated mousse Ending: Medium-long and suitably dosed In a nutshell: Rather straightforward but pleasurable When to drink: 2016–2019 Food pairing: Confit of ocean trout with celery and apple salad Final verdict: Mellow and harmonious WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 117

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 83 89p Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut NV 84 2016–2020 Food pairing: Gravad lax Final verdict: 85 89p Nose: Clean, soft, bright fruity nose with floral perfumy character and candied nuances. Palate: Sweet, balanced palate of pristine, succulent fruit Ending: Long with the sweet fruitiness carrying on and on In a nutshell: Mellow and pleasurable When to drink: 2016–2019 Food pairing: Strawberries and cream Beautifully reductive and sound When to drink: Purity Pommery Grand Cru 2005 Final verdict: At ease 86 89p Colour: Glossy golden hued lemon colour Palate: Fruity, overt and round palate with sugar coated feeling of ripeness and tropical fruit Ending: Fine freshness and the medium-long finish In a nutshell: Open and ready to drink When to drink: 2016–2023 87 Gratinated greenlipped mussels with Parmesan and walnut crust Final verdict: Plushness 89p Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Brut 2007 Colour: Pale lemon colour Nose: Soft fruity nose of a toasty, leesy tone with a slight lift to it. Palate: Fresh and firm, invigorating and highly youthful on the mediumbodied, focused palate highlighting its Chardonnay side Ending: Very dry ending with a lead pencil finish In a nutshell: Still rather noncommunicative and not yet fully integrated When to drink: 2016–2030 Food pairing: Seafood platter Final verdict: 118 www.tastingbook.com Tight and young Roland Champion Carte Blanche Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: There is a beautiful charred note to the fresh pure white fruit nose. Palate: Lots of lemony floral fruit on the lean, fresh palate Ending: Vibrant and long Nose: Strong, expressive ripe fruit profile with spices, red fruits and plenty of evolution. Food pairing: Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV Colour: Pale lemon-green Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Lovely pure white fruit nose with smoky tones and gunpowdery complexity. Palate: Pristinely fruity, pretty palate oozing coolness and freshness Ending: Zesty and nervy long dry finish In a nutshell: 89p In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 88 89p Appetising but comes with ease 2016–2022 Octopus carpaccio, spring onion and coriander Cheerful Paul Bara Special Club 2005 Colour: Medium-deep lemon-gold Nose: Deep, expanding nose of ripe red fruit, dried fruit and honeyed tones. Palate: Overt, generous palate with rounded, oily feel to it. Ending: Sufficient fruity length and well-balanced dosage In a nutshell: Fresh tingling palate. When to drink: 2016–2024 Food pairing: Sole with mushrooms and vongoles Final verdict: Pleasurable and structured

90 89 89p Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2006 89p Colour: Pale onion skin Nose: Fresh, mild, refined nose of sweet easy-going berry fruitiness. Palate: Voluptuous and caressing on the charming palate of instant appeal. Ending: There is richness to the wine but a certain singularity at least at this stage. In a nutshell: When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 91 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Palate: Fresh and lively on the palate, linear and focused Ending: Intensely fruity, neat and pure dry finish. In a nutshell: Lovely mineral length When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Monkfish and tiger prawn masala with pilaf rice 2016–2030 Sea urchin risotto with smoked caviar Rich and chewy 92 Colour: Pale pink Palate: Succulent and smooth with lemony bite of acidity Ending: Fruity forward and pleasantly subdued In a nutshell: Fresh and fruitpacked When to drink: 2016–2021 88p Doyard Clos de l'Abbaye Premier Cru Extra Brut 2010 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Sweet, soulful nose with punch, charred notes, apple peel and spices, sits slightly on the oxidative side. Palate: Linear, driven palate with lemony tartness carrying thought Ending: Very dry and citric In a nutshell: Butter and cream complexity When to drink: 2016–2023 Food pairing: Final verdict: Sautéed abalone, King Brown mushrooms and bottarga with Maltagliati Pasta 88p Bollinger Rosé NV In a nutshell: Food pairing: Sautéed razor clams with prosciutto and sea herbs 93 Final verdict: Tightly knit and elegant Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Fresh and intense nose with pristine fruitiness with soft spiciness, charred notes and sweet candied tones Palate: Firm and voluptuous but comes with a lifting crispness and coolness Ending: Carries on in a balanced, seamless fashion Nose: Full of appealing fruit: apricot, orange blossom and pastry topped up with cool vegetal and chalky-mineral notes. Final verdict: Pleasurable Alfred Gratien Brut NV Nose: Delicate, smoky minerally nose. Flowers and stone fruit with some toast, fresh ripe fruit and yeasty complexity. Evolving Deutz Rosé Brut NV FINE 100 Best Champagnes 100 Best Champagnes for 2016 When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 94 88p Spicy red fruit style with oak-driven complexity 2016–2022 Hommard en croûte Seriously rosé Collet Millésime 2006 Colour: Glossy lemony colour with golden hues Nose: Super ripe spicy fruitiness on the expressive nose. Palate: There is softness and warmth on the well-built palate. Clean, ripe, maturing fruitiness. Ending: Succulent with good length In a nutshell: Muscular but comes with just enough freshness When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Lobster Thermidor Final verdict: Ready to be enjoyed Highly individual WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 119

100 Best Champagnes for 2016 95 88p De Castelnau Réserve Brut NV 96 Colour: Deep lemon-gold Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fruity, vanilla-coated nose with candied sweet fruitiness. Palate: Round and extremely fresh, pure plush palate Ending: Fine fruity and balanced length In a nutshell: When to drink: 97 Palate: Aged mellowness on the palate of ample fruitiness Ending: Long smooth length. In a nutshell: Generous and instantly impressive When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Pan-fried red snapper with lemon butter 2016–2020 Quiche Lorraine Final verdict: Style above all 88p Nose: There is lots of yeasty depth on the gentle soft yeast-laden nose. Lovely ageing complexity Food pairing: Georges Cartier Première Cuvée Brut NV Final verdict: Comes with benefits of age 98 88p Blondel Premier Cru Cuvée Prestige Brut NV Colour: Bright lemon Nose: Rich evolving yeast laden nose with appley fruit. Palate: Sharp edgy palate with fine energy and tension Ending: Medium-long finish with enough fruit Colour: Medium-deep lemonhued colour Nose: Fresh, lemony chalky mineral white fruit nose, apple, pear and summer meadow. Palate: Fluffy palate with smooth mousse and lovely vibrancy of fruit Ending: Fresh and long, fruitforward finish In a nutshell: When to drink: In a nutshell: Easy to like When to drink: 2016–2022 Food pairing: Collet Esprit Couture Brut NV 88p Food pairing: Steamed spanner crab with black radish Final verdict: Yeast-complexed 2016–2019 Fried calamaris with Romesco Vibrant and fresh Final verdict: Friendly style 99 88p Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Brut Rosé NV Colour: Medium-deep peachy colour Nose: Elegant and fresh, delicate nose with mild strawberry and floral character. Palate: Light-weight palate, suitably dosed, very pure and clean Ending: Medium-long and full of fruit In a nutshell: Appetising and refreshing When to drink: 2016–2020 Food pairing: Miso blackened salmon with seared pak choi and pickled ginger Final verdict: 120 www.tastingbook.com Charmer 100 88p Pol Roger Vintage Rosé 2008 Colour: Medium-deep cherry colour Nose: Full, richly fruity nose with vanilla, spice and fresh red berries, notaby cherry toned. Palate: Strong, round, mouth-filling palate Ending: Carries on and on with a sweet tone at the finish In a nutshell: Lovely energy on the palate When to drink: 2016–2029 Food pairing: Coquilles St-Jacques Final verdict: Young still but with loads of potential

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Non-vintage champagne Non-vintage (NV, sans année) champagne is the backbone of every champagne house's production, typically accounting for 80–90 per cent of the total volume. Hence, it is also their most important product, taking up the most time and effort. Maintaining the consistent style and quality of the house's non-vintage champagne year after year is a challenge, yet it is paramount, because the very idea of non-vintage champagne is that no vintage-related variation can be detected in the taste – thus allowing the consumer to select his or her favourite cuvée with confidence. In the varying climatic conditions of the Champagne region, consistent quality is achieved by using reserve wines from previous years. Moreover, non-vintage champagne must be ready to drink as soon as it has been released – the majority of champagnes 122 are consumed immediately after purchase. Therefore, nonvintage champagnes usually consist of all three grape varieties – which are sourced extensively throughout the region. The cellarmasters of major champagne houses may blend more than four hundred base wines into their classic champagne in order to create a high volume of balanced, subtle champagne. The minimum maturing time of non-vintage champagne after bottling is 15 months, but most prestigious champagne houses mature their non-vintage for 2–3 years or longer in order to achieve the autolytic, toasty aromas typical of champagne. Overall placement NV Blanc Top 10 1 (6) Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 93.5 p 2 (34) De Saint Gall Demi-Sec NV 91 p 3 (70) Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial NV 89 p 4 (75) Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV 89 p 5 (76) Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV 89 p 6 (81) Taittinger Brut Réserve NV 89 p 7 (82) Ayala Brut Majeur NV 89 p 8 (83) Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut NV 89 p 9 (84) Taittinger Nocturne Demi-Sec NV 89 p 10 (90) Alfred Gratien Brut NV 89 p www.tastingbook.com Points

FINE 100 Best Champagnes Vintage champagne Vintage champagne (millésime) is made in better-than-average years and cellared longer than non-vintage champagnes. In other words, it resembles the reserve wine category that is familiar in other styles of wine. Unlike non-vintage champagnes, their vintage counterparts are not meant to be consistent year after year. On the contrary, the cellarmaster composes vintage champagnes from the base wines that best reflect that particular year's characteristics. Despite the variation between different vintages, champagnes of this category are quite easy for consumers to buy: whenever a champagne house releases a vintage champagne, it theoretically indicates that the year is a good one and, consequently, so is the champagne. Furthermore, vintage champagnes contain longer-life base wines, and while they are quite enjoyable immediately upon release, they still have significant development potential. The wines feature certain intellectualism, because they provide us with information about the differences between certain years. Vintage champagne also entails a promise of greater tasting pleasure in the years to come, as it improves with ageing. Vintage champagnes are cellared over fur for a minimum of thirty-six months, and usually for much longer. In spite of this, they are less expensive than prestige cuvées. Points Overall placement Vintage Top 10 1 (12) Palmer & Co Vintage 2008 92 p 2 (21) Alexandre Penet Millésime Extra brut 2006 92 p 3 (25) Henriot Millésime 2006 92 p 4 (36) Gosset Grand Millésime Brut 2006 91 p 5 (39) Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006 91 p 6 (45) Taittinger Millésime 2008 90 p 7 (46) Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2006 90 p 8 (51) Deutz Vintage 2009 90 p 9 (52) Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Prestige 2006 90 p 10 (57) Canard-Duchêne Brut Authentic Vintage 2008 89,75p WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 123

Prestige cuvées Every bottle of champagne is a luxury product, but not everyone wants to settle for the classic non-vintage. The uppermost category in the champagne pyramid consists of prestige cuvée (Cuvée Prestige) champagnes. This category originated in 1873, when Czar Alexander II of Russia found no ordinary champagne to be good enough for him and ordered his own special blend in a crystal bottle from his trusted supplier, Champagne Louis Roederer. Nevertheless, Moët & Chandon was the first champagne house to release a commercial prestige champagne, the Dom Pérignon vintage 1921, which was released in 1936. The Cristal champagne by Louis Roederer as we know it today was launched after World War II. The category started as a niche branch but rose to its current status in the 1950s and 1960s, and it is continuously increasing in significance. In many markets, especially in the Far East, the current demand for luxury champagne clearly exceeds supply. 124 Prestige champagnes are made from grapes harvested from the highest-rating Grand Cru villages, and often exclusively from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay as they have the longest maturation potential. In addition to the premium ingredients, the rich variety of aromas, as well as the intensive structure and small bubbles associated with prestige champagnes, can be attributed to the prolonged ageing in bottles on the lees. Due to its superb acid structure, champagne ages beautifully, and prestige champagnes in particular are at their peak long after release. Nearly all prestige champagnes, especially Cristal, Dom Pérignon, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses and Salon, require long cellaring before they reveal their true, rich, subtle and aristocratically stylish essence. Tasting soon after release may leave questions on the taster’s palate: the champagnes are often very tight and vacuously mineral, with only slight references to their future potential. It is a shame that such champagnes are released and consumed much too young – every year of patient cellaring is like putting money in the bank. Overall placement Prestige Cuvée Blanc Top10 Points 1 (1) Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV 95.75 p 2 (4) Dom Pérignon Brut 2006 94.25 p 3 (5) Krug Vintage 2003 93.75 p 4 (7) Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne mgm 1996 93.25 p 5 (10) Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2006 92.5 p 6 (15) Deutz Cuvée William Deutz Brut Millésime 2006 92 p 7 (19) Louis Roederer Cristal 2006 92 p 8 (26) G.H. Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou 2002 91 p 9 (28) Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2006 91 p 10 (31) Pierre Mignon Année de Madame Millésime 2006 91 p www.tastingbook.com

Even though rosé champagne has allegedly been manufactured in the Champagne region since at least 1775, it has never been as popular as it is today. Pink champagne has a rather girly image, but this does not reflect its actual style. Overall As a matter of fact, rosé champagne is the Non-vintage TOP 10 Points most masculine champagne because of its placement wine-like and often stronger character. 1 (3) Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV 94.5 p Rosé champagne can be made in two alternative ways: by macerating dark grapes 2 (13) Henriot Rosé Brut NV 92 p in the juice (rosé de saignée) or by blending in some red wine from the Champagne 3 (27) Canard-Duchêne Brut Rosé NV 91 p region to a white base wine (rosé d’assemblage). More than 95 per cent of 4 (47) Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé NV 90 p rosé champagnes are products of the latter method, which allows better control over 5 (48) Veuve Clicquot Rosé NV 90 p the outcome, but neither of these methods can be raised above the other. It is often 6 (64) Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Premier Cru NV 89 p impossible to determine the manufacturing method when tasting the wine, although 7 (71) Ayala Rosé Majeur Brut NV 89 p sometimes a saignée wine can be recognised 8 (77) Ruinart Rosé Brut NV 89 p due to its more tannic nature. LaurentPerrier is one of the few Grande Marque 9 (91) Deutz Rosé Brut NV 88 p houses currently using the saignée method in rosé champagne production. 10 (92) 88 p Bollinger Rosé NV Rosé champagne is often approximately 20 per cent more expensive than white champagne, due not only to its trendy popularity but also to higher manufacturing costs. The production of mature, high quality red wines for rosé champagne is difficult and expensive in Champagne. In addition, the arrangements required for the extra vinification and smaller batch Overall Points sizes are costly. Whether rosé champagne is Prestige Cuvée and Vintage TOP 10 placement worth the extra price is a question of style rather than of quality. 1 (2) Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 95.25 p Along with the increased popularity, the quality of rosé champagnes has risen 2 (10) Henriot Rosé Millésime 2008 92.5 p significantly over the past few years. Rosé champagnes are available in a wide variety, 3 (17) Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 92,25 p ranging from fresh berry flavoured to highly developed, champagne-like wines. 4 (18) Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2006 92 p The colours may vary from pale pink to nearly as dark as red wine. 5 (20) Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 2006 92 p The rosé champagnes that belong to 6 (22) Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 92 p the luxury category are the best of the best in the world of champagne. Cristal 7 (23) Louis Roederer Rosé 2009 92 p Rosé, Dom Pérignon Rosé, LaurentPerrier Alexandra, Dom Ruinart Rosé 8 (24) Deutz Amour de Deutz Rosé 2006 92 p and Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé are all wonderful examples of the ageing potential, 9 (40 Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 91 p depth and multidimensionality of rosé Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Rosé de 10 (49) 90 p champagne. These champagnes are true rarities. Furthermore, their prices are often Saignée 2007 twice or three times as high as those of their white counterpasts. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE 100 Best Champagnes Rosé champagnes 125

Blanc de Blancs The term blanc de blancs refers to wines made exclusively from white grapes, so in champagnes the grape is, in most cases, Chardonnay. This is a very common style: for example, the Côte des Blancs region is almost entirely dedicated to this grape and, consequently, local grower-producers automatically concentrate solely on blanc de blancs. Being an elegant and fruity grape, Chardonnay works very well by itself. At a young age, the wines may be markedly acidic and feature a linear, even bony structure. With ageing, 126 Chardonnay soon develops a lovely, toasty and creamy aroma. The young wines can be aggressive, and therefore many producers, such as G. H. Mumm, keep the pressure of Chardonnay champagnes slightly lower. These wines used to be called Crémant – for example, Mumm de Cramant was previously named Crémant de Cramant – but nowadays this term is reserved for sparkling wines made in other wine regions of France using the traditional method. Points Overall placement Blanc de Blancs Top 10 1 (8) Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006 2 (9) Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 93 p 3 (14) De Saint Gall Orpale 2002 92 p 4 (16) Dampierre Family Reserve 2007 92 p 5 (29) Thiénot Cuvée Stanislas Blanc de Blancs 2006 91 p 6 (30) Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Blanc de Blancs NV 91 p 7 (33) G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs Mumm de Cramant Brut NV 91 p 8 (35) Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 91 p 9 (41) Deutz Amour de Deutz 2006 90 p 10 (50) Pierre Mignon Harmonie de Blancs Grand Cru Millésime 2008 90 p www.tastingbook.com Points 93 p

FINE 100 Best Champagnes Blanc de Noirs There is considerably fewer champagnes available in this category compared to blanc de blancs. Blanc de noirs champagnes are made exclusively from dark skinned grapes – Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. They are powerful and broad but occasionally heavy on palate. However, the best have structure and character that reminds more of the Burgundian red wine than champagne. Thanks to their style, they compliment various dishes rather than serve as an aperitif. Overall placement Blanc de Noirs Top 10 Points 1 (38) Armand de Brignac Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs NV 91 p 2 (53) Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 90 p 3 (63) Jacques Rousseaux Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 90 p 4 (80) Palmer & Co Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 89 p 5 (104) Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Meunier 2008 88 p WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 127

Cooperative champagnes There are a great many cooperatives in the region, but at the moment 67 of them make and sell Champagne under their own label. Although cooperatives account for just about 9 per cent of total Champagne sales, they process more than 50 per cent of all the Champagne produced, at one stage or another. The 67 producing cooperatives sell Champagne under an astonishing number of different brand names – 2 234. 128 Still, the direction is towards building strong brands of their own, and the most commercially successful ventures include Nicolas Feuillatte, Jacquart and Devaux. But there are many eager quality-concious cooperatives on the rise: the champagnes of say Palmer & Co, De Saint Gall and Collet represent excellent value for money. Overall placement Cooperative Top 10 Points 1 (12) Palmer & Co Vintage 2008 92 p 2 (14) De Saint Gall Orpale 2002 92 p 3 (28) Pannier Egérie de Pannier Extra Brut 2006 91 p 4 (35) Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs NV 91p 5 (44) Palmer & Co Amazon de Palmer NV 90p 6 (52) Beaumont des Crayères Fleur de Prestige 2006 90 p 7 (60) De Saint Gall Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV 90 p 8 (67) Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Brut 2006 89 p 9 (74) De Saint Gall Premier Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs NV 89 p 10 (75) Devaux Cuvée D Brut NV 89 p www.tastingbook.com

FINE 100 Best Champagnes Grower champagnes As a counterforce to the champagne houses, a number of smaller grower-producers are making and selling their own products. From an international perspective, growerproducers’ champagnes appear to be a secret closely guarded by the French, judging by the fact that only 12 per cent of these wines are exported. Compared to the champagne houses, the growerproducers’ philosophy when it comes to winemaking is very different. Their wines are made from their own grapes, often grown in a small area, making the extensive blending practised by the champagne houses impossible. Grower champagnes typically represent the taste profile of the wines from a particular vineyard, village or sub-region in the area. It goes without saying that not all grower champagnes are excellent – nor are all champagnes from champagne houses – but in recent years with the new generation of growers taking over the reins, a positive trend has emerged with regards to top-quality grower champagnes. Names like Jacques Selosse have paved the way to fame for other grower-producers. Many of the up-and-coming grower-producers have adapted a very natural approach to champagne-making, working intensely in their vineyards in order to maximise the quality of their products. Organic or biodynamic production is not unheard of, even if most growers practice viticulture according to the sustainable principles of lutté raisonnée. Grower-producers concentrate largely on producing terroir wines, i.e. denoting the special characteristics that the habitat has bestowed upon the champagne, often by sticking to natural yeasts and minimising the sulphur dioxide content and the sweetening dosage. The grower community in the Champagne area is undergoing constant changes, and there are still a number of ‘undiscovered’ quality growers in the region. Wine connoisseurs visiting with their eyes open will have a great opportunity to make interesting acquaintances. However, due to the restricted resources of the grower-producers and the lack of a worldwide distribution network, only a small share of the growers sent their champagnes to this tasting. Overall placement Grower champagnes Top 10 Points 1 (40) Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 91 p 2 (43) José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2008 90 p 3 (59) Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Spécial Club 2009 90 p 4 (63) Jacques Rousseaux Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 90 p 5 (73) Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Oger Grand Cru Brut NV 89 p 6 (86) Roland Champion Carte Blanche Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 89 p 7 (88) Paul Bara Special Club 2005 89 p 8 (93) Doyard Clos de l'Abbaye Premier Cru Extra-Brut 2010 88 p 9 (101) Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Fleuron Brut 2008 88 p 10 (105) A. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut NV 88 p WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 129

Previous winners 2010-2015 1 / 2010 96p Armand de Brignac NV Colour: Pale lemony colour. Nose: Smooth peach nose with pear and floral notes. Complex with mineral smokiness, restraint, honey and spicy finesse. Palate: Creamy, foamy palate with good freshness and tropical fruit. Ending: Linear with compact fruit and wonderful length. In a nutshell: Enjoyable today but there is great potential ahead. When to drink: Now–2025 Final verdict: Flirty and seductive 1 / 2012 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 Previous Winners 2010–2015 94p 130 www.tastingbook.com Colour: Medium-deep golden Nose: Soft, rich, layered, coffee, ripe fruit, gun powder Palate: Elegant, fresh, linear, fragrant, fine mousse, appetising, superb balance Ending: Long, intense yet elegant In a nutshell: Charming When to drink: 2012–2020 Final verdict: A great Comtes, ready to be enjoyed but can be kept 1 2014 / 94p Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé Brut 2002 Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Beautifully subdued, pure and elegant nose of ripe peach, gentle spiciness and minerality Palate: Bright fruity, intense yet refined, lacey texture and the softest mousse Ending: Perfectly long, vibrant and mouthwatering In a nutshell: As elegant as it gets Buy or not: Yes, and there is still some around When to drink: Food pairing: Final verdict: 2014–2030 Chicken Bresse Finesse meets power and precision 1 / 2011 95p Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 Colour: Bright, medium-deep lemon colour. Nose: Elegant and layered nose of mocha and toast, vanilla, white flowers and tropical fruits. Palate: Structured, generous and stylish taste with a creamy texture and lively yet soft mousse. Ending: Linear and intense on the palate with a lingering and refreshing, toasty finish. In a nutshell: Still quite youthful and will improve with further ageing. When to drink: 2010–2025 Final verdict: Powerful elegance 1 / 2013 95p Charles Heidsieck Millésimé 2000 Colour: Shiny deep golden Nose: Opulent, giving and evolved nose of roasted coffee beans, sweet tropical fruits and honey Palate: Rich, voluptuous, silky smooth and caressing Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Polished to perfection When to drink: 2013–2019 Final verdict: Mindblowingly rich, seamless and complex 1 / 2015 94p Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé Brut 2002 Colour: Medium-deep salmon-peachy Nose: Immensely refined, layered nose with stylish coffee and seductive perfumy floral toasty notes. Cool breeze with vegetal notes,elegantly reductive style Palate: Crisp, firm, linear and fresh. A touch of phenolics on the back palate. Ending: Long and tight In a nutshell: When to drink: Mineral, spicy, firm and vinous Superb for the long term. Highly youthful for the time being. Final verdict: Heavenly, approaching perfection

FINE 100 Best Champagnes The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 The Best Champagne for 2016 In the year 1812, the Laurent family traded from being coopers in the Montagne de Reims to making Champagne in Tours-surMarne. Decades later their son Eugène Laurent married Mathilde Émile Perrier, who found herself widowed young in 1887. She run the business successfully but had no children and her eventual death brought the house to Marie-Louise de Nonancourt, sister of Victor and Henri Lanson. There was no room for Marie-Louise at the Lanson family enterprise, so she took the courageous step of buying a champagne business in 1938 despite raising four children alone after her husband’s death. The business survived the Second World War in her leadership, after which Bernard de Nonancourt, Marie-Louise’s second son, took up running the business and built it up to be one of the biggest and best-known Champagne Houses. A great Champagne figurehead and believer in the region’s terroir and style of wine, Bernard de Nonancourt made LaurentPerrier to be what it is today. He visioned its style to be one of freshness and elegance and created its celebrated prestige cuvée Grand Siècle, which at the time of its launch in 1959 was one of the first luxury cuvées and the very first multi-vintaged one. Stylistically Grand Siècle is a skilfully crafted melange of vivacity, generosity and age-derived complexity. Laurent-Perrier chooses not to communicate the three vintages used for each multi-vintage wine, but each cuvée is naturally unique. A harmonious blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three fine years, our panel was charmed by the current 2002, 1999 and 1997 blend’s ample yeast-layered complexity, lovely gunpowdery coolness and toasty exuberance. Led by the majestic 2002 vintage, the characterful blend is complemented by the mellow and rich 1999 and finely detailed 1997. Instantly impressive, but built to last, we toast to our Best Champagne for 2016. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 131

The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 The Best Champagne for 2015 Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 – "Blanc de Blancs Rosé" 132 I am sitting in the stylish meeting room at Champagne Ruinart congratulating the house’s chef de cave Frédéric Panaïotis for winning FINE Champagne’s Best Champagne in 2015 title with its Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002. Thrilled of course but the congenial Panaïotis is not taking much credit for it. ‘In fact, it was Bertrand Mure who was the true visionary of the house style’. He is referring to the cousin of Gérard Ruinart, who came to the resque of Champagne Ruinart in the 1940s in the aftermath of the stock exchange crash, the oil crisis and the Second World War. ‘When Mure came to the house, he had to start with nothing. There were only 20 hectares of vineyards and the Germans had taken the entire champagne stock’, remembers Panaïoits. ‘He crafted our pleasurable and inviting style, and it was already in his era that we started using high proportions of Chardonnay, which is our hallmark today.’ ‘We are actually sitting in Bertrand Mure’s old office right now’ Panaïotis surprises me, and suddenly I look at the room differently. ‘Mure had a long career at Ruinart and he was here even when I started in 2007. He came to the office as if it was his house even if it was long past his retirement! He sadly passed away in 2010’, Panaïotis remembers. Both of Ruinart’s celebrated prestige cuvées, Dom Ruinart and Dom Ruinart Rosé, were also Mure’s creations. First came Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs from the 1959 vintage. Taittinger had already made a blanc de blancs prestige cuvée, so Ruinart went about it with a different recipy, one that involved significant amounts of Montagne de Reims grand cru Chardonnay from Sillery, Puisieulx, Verzy, Verzenay and Mailly in addition to the classic Côte des Blancs components. The Ruinart family had historically owned vineyards in the Montagne de Reims and, in addition to paying tribute to this historical link, the enchanced structure and vinosity of Chardonnay from these villages was what Mure was after. For him, Dom Ruinart was to have a Burgundian tone to it, a stylish melange of minerality, power and texture. ‘I love the reductive style in both white burgundy and champagne’, states Panaïotis. And how convenient is it that he is in charge of a house that is famous for its pure, precise, reductive style? Frédéric Panaïotis was actually earmarked as the next chef de cave of Veuve Clicquot, but his predecessor’s sudden passing changed the game plan and moved him from Clicquot to Ruinart. ‘A house of this size and quality level suits me perfectly’ confesses the perfectionist Panaïotis. Even if none of Panaïotis’ own Dom Ruinart have yet hit the markets we can enjoy the fruits of his labour in the non-vintage cuvées. Increased precision is surely one achievement for this house that has been working intensely for perfecting the aromatic maturity of their Chardonnay grapes and on methods to minimize the lactic aromas of the malolactic fermentation in the champagnes. Since 2010 Ruinart has also started to close its Dom Ruinarts for second fermentation with natural cork, which is according to current knowledge the best closure for long term tirage. www.tastingbook.com Chardonnay is hugely important for Ruinart but so it is also for Dom Pérignon and Moët & Chandon, who are part of the same pool of sourcing. Who gets to choose first? ‘Sure, there is a fight for premium Chardonnay, but luckily the house styles and cuvées are built so that each of us has a distinct style we are after. It makes it easier’, explains Panaïotis. Triumphant blanc de blancs rosé But this time, it was not the blanc de blancs that won FINE Champagne’s ultimate title but its rosé version, Dom Ruinart Rosé, first made in 1966 vintage. ‘If any of you have some of the inaugural vintage lying in your cellars, please call me!’, urges Panaïotis, who is eager to get his hands on these rarer than rare bottles that have long been extinct at the house’s cellars. November 2013 brought about a very exiting news for Ruinart, whose archivists discovered proof of shipping ‘oeil de perdrix’ rosé already back in 1764. Thus, not only is Ruinart the oldest champagne house, it is now the first known shipper of rosé in Champagne. ‘And conveniently it summed up to exactly 250 years of Ruinart rosé in 2014, but we only had a couple of months after the discovery to plan it all!’ remembers Panaïotis. Even if Ruinart no longer makes an oeil de perdrix rosé, its Dom Ruinart is a unique piece within the world of champagne rosés. ‘It is a blanc de blancs rosé’, trifles Panaïotis referring to its Dom Ruinart core of 100% Chardonnay, which is completed by addition of some 15 per cent of Montagne de Reims red Pinot Noir. It is surprising how well this unexpected blend works. The Chardonnay soul is still sensible on the wines linear, mineral palate but the nose is one of beautiful Burgundy Pinot Noir, even much more than the presentage added would suggest. Due to the long maceration, the red grapes give a lot of character to the wine and a unique personality of its own. The 2002 white Dom Ruinart is gorgeous in its coffee-toned smoky-mineral and opulently fruity character but this top year’s rosé charmed us even further by its beautiful complexity of struck-match, spice and Burgundian Pinot tones and the firm and vivaceous palate of great class and future potential. Impressive already, but I can’t wait to see all the layers it will develop over time. It should be in full bloom for the house’s 300th anniversary in 2029. Hopefully Frédéric Panaïotis will be there to share a bottle with me then.

FINE 100 Best Champagnes The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 ”I consider myself as ‘grower de luxe’, as at Roederer we are in the unique position to combine the best of both worlds. On one hand I am a grower, looking after the terroir in our exceptional vineyards. But I am also a negociant who follows the philosophy of blending with an aesthetical vision of what a Roederer wine is”, Vineyard Manager and Cellar Master Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon of Roederer begins. Cristal is born in the vineyards. Roederer owns over two hundred hectares of vineyards which cater for two-thirds of their grape needs. According to Lécaillon the majority of recent developments at Roederer have been in vineyard operations. To him intensity in the wine comes straight from the vineyards, resulting in Roederer limiting the crop heavily and focusing on mature vines. As a result, the grapes from their own vineyards produce juice with one percent higher potential alcohol. Most importantly, there’s less tart malic acid in their own grapes. Roederer strives for the highest possible acidity, but it is essential that it is accompanied by a fully ripe fruitiness. The house belongs to the five-percent minority of Champagne producers who do not use malolactic fermentation to soften wine acidity. But they go so much further with the Cristal Rosé. Roederer is the first major Champagne House that has gone into biodynamic viticulture. They currently have 78 hectares converted or in conversion to biodynamic cultivation. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon does not declare himself as biodynamicist but rather ‘a curious person’. He said: ‘This is my personal fascination. Back in 2000, the team believed this would not be possible. Now we can say it is possible, but very difficult. We are all thrilled of this success that opens new horizons for our viticulture and in the end, for the quality of our wines.” Approximately 30 percent of Cristal Rosé’s base comes from the biodynamic Pinot Noir plot in Aÿ. The 70 percent share of extremely ripe Pinot Noir grapes gives the wine its delicate hue. The berries are not crushed, only destemmed and then let to macerate at cool temperature for 5–6 days. When the fermentation begins, the juice is racked off the skins after 2–3 days. Then some 30 percent Chardonnay from Mesnil and Avize is added to this already very pale red wine. A minor amount of red wine is used to fine-tune the colour. The colour of the rosé does not necessarily give any clue to the taste. Cristal Rosé is nearly as pale as its white version. Yet again, the wine is chewy, muscular and extremely vinous and well-built. To Lécaillon it is all about playing with the tannin presence for the structure but without letting it take over the finesse. Fermentation for Cristal wines is carried out 80 percent in stainless steel and 20 percent in large, old oak casks that help to enhance the wine’s structure and complexity. Another Cristal secret is the lees contact encouraged in the vats. After some 5 to 7 years en tirage, the wine is disgorged replacing the lost volume with 8–10-year-old superior Pinot Noir and Chardonnay reserve wines. Dosage is customarily in the 8–11g/l range, varying slightly vintage to vintage. After recorking, the wine is left to rest for six more months in the cellar. Sweet Cristal was first crafted for the Tsar Alexander II of Russia in the late 19th century. However, the Russian revolution crashed the market and no Cristal was produced between 1917 and 1927. In 1928 a small batch – using the current packaging – was produced under a licensed trademark, but the product was not a luxury blend. It was intended more for personal consumption than as a prestige wine. After this, Madame Olry-Roederer began the ambitious development of the house’s flagship champagne. Cristal Rosé was added to the portfolio in 1974. Today, 6,000– 8,000 precious bottles are made on the finest years. Cristal is divinely elegant and restrained, with an astonishingly ripe fruitiness. At the same time it is backed up by an unmatchable acidic backbone. It is the most consistent and long-lived of all champagne prestige cuvées earning it the place on the top of my list. The rosé is more approachable young whereas the white version craves time. The charm of the Cristal Rosé has lot to do with the contrast of the pale colour to such a muscular and vinous texture. The Best Champagne for 2014 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 – A Perfect Cut WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 133

The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 The Best Champagne for 2013 Charles Heidsieck Millésimé Brut 2000 – A Serial Winner 134 A podium position is nothing new to Charles Heidsieck, which has been the number one ranked Champagne brand in major international wine competitions throughout the last decade. But in this year’s FINE Champagne TOP 100 ‘Charlie’ hit the jackpot with its three cuvées – Millésimé 2000, Brut Réserve NV and Rosé Millesimé 1999 – making it into our top four. It is the richness of the Charles Heidsieck style, the wines’ aged, sweet opulence that charms in blind tastings, but it seduces in open tastings, too. With a track record of excellent cellar masters, the founding blocks of Charles Heidsieck’s top form of today were laid by the late Daniel Thibault, who was snatched from Henriot to Charles Heidsieck when Rémy Martin acquired the house in 1985. Rémy Martin supported Thibault’s vision of creating what was targeted to become the best non-vintage on the market. Thibault started collecting an enormous stock of reserve wines, aiming ideally for 40 per cent of reserve wines in the blend. Also, the wines held back for future blends were to be much older than the usual 1–2 years, averaging 4–5 years and including some 12-year-old wines. It is these reserve wines that allow Charles Heidsieck to craft their non-vintage cuvée into a rich, seductively toasty, honeyed wine of great depth. Its toasty nature fools many into thinking there is oak involved in the manufacture. But the wines see only stainless steel vats and are kept for an extended amount of time in the vessels on the lees, which brings the richness of flavour and texture to them. Piper Heidsieck became a part of the group in 1990, and since then a merging of the two houses has taken place. The company is now P&C Heidsieck, with all vinification taking place under the same roof at the new, ultra-modern winery. After Daniel Thibault passed away unexpectedly in 2002, the winemaking responsibility was given to Régis Camus, who had worked together with Thibault for years. If anything, the quality has only increased during Camus’ time, winning him numerous titles as the Sparkling Wine Maker of the Year. In 2012, Thierry Roset, who had been working with the two previous cellar masters for 23 years, was promoted to look after Charlie as the cellar master, while Régis Camus still oversees the winemaking of both Piper and Charles Heidsieck as the cellar master of PiperHeidsieck. Although Charles Heidsieck is the higher ranked of the www.tastingbook.com two, Piper was the obvious choice for Régis, to whom Charles was always Daniel’s baby and Piper his. Unfortunately Thierry Roset passed away and Cyril Brut was selected as his successor in 2015. Simultaneously with the cellar master change from Camus to Roset, the Charles Heidsiecks were dressed in new bottles and labels with some alterations in the wine, too. The assemblage remains as the classic equal blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The blend was reduced from 120 villages to a still outstanding but selected assembly of 60. The blending is followed by a highly respectable eight-to-ten years of ageing on the lees. Even though the non-vintage Brut Réserve is a real masterpiece, the entire range is superb. Our winner this year, Charles Heidsieck Vintage, gets an even longer lees ageing time, extending to over ten years. We have been enjoying the vintage 2000 for years already, with the wine showing divine quality year after year with no signs of tiring. The third superb Heidsieck this year was the Rosé 1999, which, in accordance with the house style, is particularly rich, toasty and gastronomic. But, as Charles Heidsieck has learned, there’s a long way from winning competitions to the shopping baskets of champagne drinkers. P&C Heidsieck’s new owners since 2011, EPI, are still struggling to bring Charles into the limelight, a position deserved due to both the quality and pricing of their cuvées.

FINE 100 Best Champagnes The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 Consistently great but from time to time simply divine, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne has consecutively been an apt contender for the title of the best champagne on the market. All recent vintages have been successful; the intense 1996 being one of the finest of the vintage, the 1998 possessing classic Comtes elegance and the 1999 demonstrating a more softer side of Comtes. But in 2000 Taittinger and its reputed cellar master Loïc Dupont hit jackpot. This warm, overt vintage produced many heavy and overly ripe champagnes, but in Comtes the richness given by the year is bound to a velvet-smooth texture and a fine, fresh acidity that creates an exiting tension one wishes to marvel time and again. Comtes de Champagne possesses a flawless track record all the way down to its inaugural vintage, 1952. It is reputed to be the first prestige cuvée blanc de blancs, if one does not count the then small mono-cru blanc de blancs Salon. Today it rivals for the title of the best blanc de blancs quite level-headedly with Dom Ruinart, Salon and Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires. Why blanc de blancs then? It was already Pierre Taittinger who believed in Chardonnay. Following his instinct, he created the light and elegant Chardonnay-dominant floral and perfumed style as Taittinger’s trademark. Consistent with this vision, the house’s prestige cuvée was to be a 100 percent Chardonnay whose emphasis is on Avize and Mesnil fruit. The wine is produced in a reductionist style in stainless steel vats but since the 1989 vintage a fraction of the wine has been aged in fairly new oak barrels for four months. This gives a boost to the wine’s creamy texture and enhances its hallmark toasty qualities. After bottling the wines are transported to the ancient GalloRoman chalk cellars of Saint-Niçaise to ferment and mature. The St-Niçaise abbey was destroyed in the French Revolution and much later the Taittingers bought the ruins and built their cellars into these monumental historical surroundings. Today, the underground cellar network at St-Niçaise is used entirely for maturing Comtes de Champagne. The rest of production takes place at the modern winery facilities at Rue de la Justice. Great champagnes are traditionally named after people. Taittinger makes no exception having chosen to honour the region by naming their prestige cuvée Comtes de Champagne – Counts of Champagne. The origins of the Counts of Champagne lie in the 7th century feudal society. Originally, before the 11th century, the Counts of Troyes had had the ruling but during the time of Thibault II the power shifted to the Champagne County whose Count had his residence in Reims. Thibault II was a mighty man ranking only second to the king. However, it was especially during the times of Thibault IV Champagne flourished. He arranged famous 49-day festivities that brought prosperity to the region. The story of the Champagne Counts came to an end finally when the crown and the Champagne County were unites as Louis X rose to power. Taittinger, still owning the historical Comtes de Champagne residence today, named their prestige cuvée to honour this history. Complex story but complex is the wine, too. The champagne’s smooth, layered character develops over 10 years’ ageing period in the cellars. This, the wine’s attractive 10 g/l dosage and sufficient post-disgorgement rest make Comtes de Champagne such an attractive champagne already upon release. We toast to congratulate Taittinger. This house that has recently returned back to family hands, has quickly built a strong spirit with Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger at the helm supported by both of his children Clovis and Vitalie. Perhaps it was the family spirit that made Comtes de Champagne 2000 and Vintage 2004, which took a fabulous second ranking, go the extra mile. The Best Champagne for 2012 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2000 – Claims the Crown WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 135

The Best Champagne for 2011 The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 136 This time the title of the World’s Best Champagne is awarded to the Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002. Perhaps in anticipation of its future success, the label of the bottle is a golden crown. The PiperHeidsieck Rare 2002 was unanimously voted as the best in view of all of its qualities, and was the number one wine of both the final and semi-final blind tastings. Piper-Heidsieck is known as a highly communicative, marketing­-oriented champagne that caters to the tastes of the Hollywood élite. Its most renowned champion, Marilyn Monroe, famously claimed to start all her mornings with Piper. Champagne designs from acclaimed artists have always been a part of the Piper selection. The legendary goldsmith Carl Fabergé designed a bottle decorated with diamonds, gold and lapis lazuli to celebrate the house’s 100th anniversary as far back as 1885. Since then, Piper bottles have been clad for instance by Van Cleef & Arpels, JeanPaul Gaultier and Victor & Rolf. In 2009, Piper-Heidsieck rekindled the decadent Russian-Parisian ritual of drinking champagne from a shoe – this time from a crystal stiletto designed by Christian Louboutin. Such marketing tricks often reveal deficiencies in the quality of the wine, but that is certainly not true of Piper. At least not anymore, as the quality has consistently increased since Rémy Martin (now Rémy Cointreau) bought the house in 1990. Today, Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck are one company, but to distinguish between the two houses’ brands, they each have their own styles and marketing approaches. They are like a pair of brothers; the serious, mature, and charming gentleman Charles Heidsieck, and the silly, boyish and lively party animal Piper-Heidsieck. These differences are maintained even in the houses’ basic selections, for which Piper selects open, fruity and light champagnes. The Piper style charms the most inexperienced of champagne lovers but will not bore even a seasoned palate. Despite its easily approachable style, Piper has a depth that develops during ageing. The Heidsieck name is undeniably confusing, as Champagne also contains a third representative: Heidsieck Co. & Monopole. All three houses stem from Florens-Louis Heidsieck. When he died, his nephew Christian Heidsieck took over the firm established in 1785, while another nephew, Henri-Louis Walbaum, started up Walbaum, Heidsieck & Co. in 1834. The son of Florens-Louis’s third nephew, Charles-Camille, went on to establish Charles Heidsieck. When Christian Heidsieck’s widow married HenriGuillaume Piper in 1937, the estate was renamed Piper & Co, although it still sold champagne under the Heidsieck name. The name Piper-Heidsieck was settled on in 1845. www.tastingbook.com Although the Rare champagne was first produced in 1976, it has never found a place as a luxury champagne for the masses. It has not even been produced very often, as the only prior vintages are 1979, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1998 and 1999. The champagne changed course around the turn of the millennium, as for a few years it became the non-vintage blend Cuvée Rare. Even though the Cuvée Rare was charming, it is significantly easier to market luxury vintage champagnes, and their ageing process is more practical to follow. Having spent a while in a dark suit, the Rare is again clothed in a very chic golden bottle. We hope that the gala dress, the top vintage of 2002 and its success in FINE Champagne Magazine’s Best Champagne for 2011 will bring the Rare Millésime to the lips of more and more champagne lovers.

The first ever ’The 100 Best Champagnes” ranking resulted in a surprise winner. The winning champagne was a novelty known by selected few, Armand de Brignac Brut Gold. This flashy golden bottle with an eye-catching Ace of Spades emblem was announced winner just ahead of G.H. Mumm Cuvée René Lalou 1998. This ”bling-bling” champagne appeared in public for first time on rap artist Jay-Z’s music video ”Show Me What You Got” in 2006. It initially was a well-kept secret by its creator, Champagne Cattier, but today it is a champagne of great international following and fame. Cattier has some 20 hectares of vineyards. The family has owned the estate since 1793, though it is only since 1918 that they have produced and marketed champagne under their family name. Patriarch Jean-Jacques Cattier oversees the house’s limited wine production alongside his son and chief oenologist, Alexandre Cattier. Jean-Jacques and Alexandre wanted to create a high-quality prestige cuvée, produced using the most traditional methods. Their idea was to create a multi-vintage blend, with each bottling comprising three distinct vintages from exceptional years. They wanted to pay tribute to the emblematic villages of Champagne, which are known for the high quality of their grapes that are all rated Premier Cru and Grand Cru and located in Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne. Cattiers decided to use only a very small fraction of the first pressing of these grapes. Three distinct vintages are used for each bottling of Armand de Brignac Brut Gold. The dosage is further enhanced by ageing in one-year old Burgundy barrels for nine months, in order to impart a touch of soul to the champagne. Mother and child The ‘de Brignac’ name was registered by the Cattier family in the early 1950s. It was chosen by Jean-Jacques Cattier’s mother, who had been reading a novel featuring a character of the same name. "In 1950, my mother had the idea to create another brand and, by that time, she had already decided to one day do something different to what we were doing at Champagne Cattier. She did not know then exactly what, but she really liked the character in the novel and used his name to create something new. Around ten years ago, we thought that it was time to re-launch this initial project of my mother and pay tribute to her. Unfortunately, she passed away before Armand de Brignac was released. The concept of Armand de Brignac was originally very simple – we just tried to make the best possible champagne with the best possible presentation,” explains Jean-Jacques Cattier. In November 2014 Armand de Brignac brand was acquired by Shawn Carter, aka Jay Z. The Cattier family oversees the production of the brand. The debut blend of Blanc de Noirs was ranked as the best Blanc de Noirs champagne in The Best Champagnes for 2016. FINE 100 Best Champagnes The Best Champagne for 2010 The Best Champagnes 2010-2016 WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 137

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FINE Champagne Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot I t has got it all: aristocratic looks, historic pedigree, genuine character and an abundance of appeal. But behind its desirable image is a wine made with a formidable level of ambition and attention to detail. We paid a visit to Champagne Louis Roederer to bring you a full feature of its unique prestige champagne – Cristal. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 141

“For nine months of the year I am a grower, and for three months a blender.” Cellar master Jean-Baptiste L ­ écaillon 142 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Champagne The bottle has kept its royal looks but the contents are enjoying the fruits of Louis Roederer’s endless research and development efforts, both in the winery and the vineyard. “I call it clear blue sky,” says Jean-Baptiste ­Lécaillon, chef de cave at Louis Roederer since 1999 and the man experienced in making one of the world’s most coveted wines since 1989. “I call it crystal clear,” I reply to him, giving my definition of the pure and bright hallmark characteristic of Cristal. We circle around in the Roederer vat room in their Reims-based cellars tasting the vins clairs of the 2013 vintage. Vat after vat, Lécaillon introduces me to the likely components of the next cuvées of Cristal and Cristal Rosé. It quickly becomes obvious how its refined, high-acid style takes the search for finesse to another level. The bottle has kept its royal looks but the contents are enjoying the fruits of Louis Roederer’s endless research and development efforts, both in the winery and the vineyard. But Lécaillon, cellar master for 15 years, is now ready to take Cristal deeper down to its original roots and reveal a new expression. Let’s take a look into the foundations and future of Cristal. The foundations This prestigious house, whose roots span back to 1776, came to bear its current name when Louis Roederer took over the house from his uncle in 1833. It was he who conquered the Russian market even though his son, Louis Roederer II, received the credit for developing Cristal. The Tsar was indeed taken with Roederer champagne: in 1873, some 666 386 bottles, which amounted to approximately 27 per cent of its entire production, were delivered to the court of Alexander II. In order to formalise Roederer’s status as official purveyor to the Imperial Court of Russia, Alexander II commissioned Louis Roederer to produce a sweet, prestige blend packaged in a real crystal glass bottle in 1876. The legend of Cristal’s genuine crystal bottle is well known but regrettably there is not one bottle left in existence. The bottle was too weak to withstand the pressure and the resulting losses were too much even for the extravagant Tsar, meaning genuine crystal bottles were used only for a year or two. Cristal’s success came to an abrupt end thanks to the Russian Revolution in 1917. Léon Olry-Roederer, who was the head of the house at the time, dramatically learnt the lesson of relying on a single market and the loss of the Russian market was considered a fatal blow to the company as a whole. Russia’s new government did not place any more orders, and outstanding debts went unpaid. Adding insult to injury, Roederer’s cellars were packed with vast numbers of bottles of this sweet sparkling wine, which no one wanted. The company was in dire straits until the 1930s, when the worldwide economic depression also put the market to the test. With the death of Léon Olry-Roederer in 1932 the company was placed in the hands of his widow, Camille Olry-Roederer. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 143

Farsighted Matriarch Camille Olry-Roederer joined the line of strong champagne widows, heading the Roederer champagne house for 42 years until 1975, and putting Roederer back on the path to success in the process. Her achievements were important: she managed to acquire a considerable number of top-quality vineyards, thus building a solid financial foundation for the company. Another breakthrough idea from Madame Olry-Roederer was to properly commercialise Cristal as a prestige cuvée. From 1917 to 1927, no Cristal was made. In 1928 a small batch – using the current packaging – was produced under the licensed trademark. But after the initial vintage, Madame OlryRoederer began the ambitious development of the house’s flagship champagne. The 1970s were a turning point of sorts for Roederer and Cristal. Camille Olry-Roederer’s grandson Jean-Claude Rouzaud joined the house and gradually took the helm. It was a rough start, as TCA, a chemical compound that causes cork taint, infested the Roederer cellars. The young man faced an enormous undertaking. A huge volume of wine had to be taken off the market and disposed of, and the entire production facility had to be sterilised and rebuilt. This was also the period when Roederer worked with its American importer to make Cristal the world’s most in-demand champagne. A key detail of this plan was to double the price. High price and scarcity – alongside uncompromised quality – made Cristal the most coveted champagne in the world. Eventually, the family’s shrewd patriarchs managed to turn things around, and today Roederer is the most solvent of Champagne’s houses and still in family ownership. The company, now headed by Frédéric Rouzaud, is strongly rooted in the allocating business, with importers racing to raise their share of its gems. 144 www.tastingbook.com The company, now headed by Frédéric Rouzaud, is strongly rooted in the allocating business, with importers racing to raise their share of its gems. Back to the vineyards Back in the cool modern-day cellar, my tasting tour through the output of the house’s vineyards continues. Today Louis Roederer owns enough vineyards to cater for 70 per cent of its needs, and it is only the non-vintage which contains purchased fruit. I learn from Lécaillon that the house’s vast vineyard holdings were largely gathered during the time of Louis Roederer and Camille Olry-Roederer – by 1850 they already possessed an estate of 100 hectares. But, whenever opportunity arises, Roederer invests in new vineyards and its estate now comprises over 240 hectares of vineyards, of which over half is precious Grand Cru. Listening to Lécaillon, the vineyard’s significance becomes obvious: “For nine months of the year I am a grower, and for three months a blender.” Many cellar masters might claim the same, but here at Roederer it is the truth. The vineyard team consists of oenologists rather than viticulturalists, because their task is to understand the grapes and the wine from each block rather than just the land or the vine. We stop in front of another vat and Lécaillon hands me a sample of Pinot Noir. It is very tight and tense but comes with the firmest acid line and incredible length. “This is Les Gouttes d’Or from Aÿ, a classic Cristal Pinot Noir,” Lécaillon explains. Roederer has divided its vineyards into four ‘Estates’, each of which is dedicated to producing a given wine. The ‘Cristal Estate’ comprises plots in the villages of Verzenay, Verzy, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avize, Cramant, and Mesnilsur-Oger, and this particular wine only comes from vineyards over 25-years-old. “The lower yields of the older vines have a big impact,” offers Lécaillon. Furthermore, Roederer is the only champagne house which has its own vine nursery. “We no longer use clonal vine material, only off-springs from our own vineyards to ensure natural diversity,” he goes on to say. Lécaillon’s ambition towards viticulture is trailblazing in Champagne. With its 65 hectares, the company is the largest operator of organic or biodynamic vineyards in the region. “We have now stopped organic cultivation and shifted entirely to biodynamics for the 65 hectares. We have found the major difference to be between biodynamic and organic and not between organic and conventional. I find we are getting an elevated acidity and more reduc-

FINE Champagne tive characters from biodynamic wines. Therefore I often choose to use oak vats for their fermentation as it opens them up,” Lécaillon says, moving on to the topic of winemaking. Playing skilfully with fermentation vessels is another art Roederer masters. They use 6000-litre oak vats, not barrels, for a part of the base wines, the effects of which can be felt texturally but never smelt as an aroma of oak. “The north and north-east facing vineyards of Verzy or Verzenay often benefit from the opening effect of oak. However, most Marne Valley wines we customarily ferment in stainless steel to close them a little,” he goes on. Oak does play a large role when crafting styles, which are often described on a continuum of oxidation and reduction. To Lécaillon, the Roederer style is non-oxidative, non-reductive: “Since the 1950s we have flirted with the interplay of oxidation and reduction.” The grapes from Roederer’s own vineyards are cultivated to produce riper than average grapes with less tart malic acid. This is essential for the style as Roederer famously leaves the softening malolactic fermentation largely undone. It is this combination of ripe fruit and accentuated acidity that brings the fruitiness out in the brightest manner and makes the wine so appetising and long-lived. “We sometimes need to carry out some five to 10 per cent malolactic fermentation, even for Cristal. But when we do we make sure, by a very slow, cool process, that we avoid any diacetyl buttery notes and keep the fruit,” notes Lécaillon. The varietal composition of modern vintages of Cristal is slightly Pinot dominant, with customarily 55 per cent Pinot Noir and 45 per cent Chardonnay. “Pinot Noir has a more oxidative tendency and Chardonnay reductive. I have been increasingly impressed by the vintages with high Pinot content, such as 1969, 1964 and 1955. And it was our large Cristal tasting in Helsinki that convinced me to go back to a stronger Pinot dominance in the “Since the 1950s we have flirted with the interplay of oxidation and reduction.” Blender’s hat As we are in February it is the season for Lécaillon to wear his blender’s hat. Here in his kingdom he has 450 tanks for his 410 blocks of vineyards, all of which are separated. Cristal’s share of this is customarily some 60 to 65 different wines. “In 2002, an archetype year, we made more Cristal than ever,” Lécaillon tells me, and I am pleased by this fact as it means there is still plenty of our winning wine around. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 145

f­uture,” Lécaillon foresees. So a subtle yet significant change in the style of Cristal might be in the stars for the future vintage? “It is more classic for Cristal. Pinot Noir was already mentioned in Louis Roederer’s letter to Tsar Nikolai that we have in our archives. He only mentioned ‘white grapes’, and did not specify Chardonnay. After all, Chardonnay was only domesticated in Champagne some 150 years ago, whereas Pinot has been here since the Middle Ages.” Pink dreams As if Cristal was not already decadent enough, there is also the rarer-than-rare rosé version, first born a hundred years after the first Cristal, in 1974. It is an intriguing and particular prestige cuvée rosé, as it has the palest colour, yet a contrastingly fleshy, fruity, well-built palate of amazing freshness. Its secret is in the 60 per cent Pinot Noir from two ­hectares o­ f Roederer’s own old-vine vineyards in Aÿ, Bonotte-PierreRobert and La Côte du Moulin, which are now cultivated according to biodynamic principles. It is these ripe, concentrated grapes that give the wine its delicate hue via the saignée, or bleeding method. Then 30 per cent of Côte des Blancs Grand Cru Chardonnay from Le Mesnil sur Oger and Avize is added to give spine and elegance. Over twice the price of regular Cristal, it is precious and much more scarce. Made in tiny volumes, it is a true collector’s item. 146 www.tastingbook.com Life after disgorgement After bottling, Cristal is left in the cellars on its yeast lees for five to six years. This is a relatively short period for such a long-lived champagne, but Roederer is clever enough to aid its approachability with a relatively long postdisgorgement time of 18 months before shipping. The dosage is high by today’s standards, at around 10 g/l, but Cristal’s crisp style marries perfectly with such a dosage. “For logistic reasons we make several disgorgements of each vintage but all are done within the same calendar year,” confirms Lécaillon. Louis Roederer also proved its up-to-date spirit in 2013 by launching­­ a code system on its Internet site as well as a smartphone application designed to recover technical details such as the disgorgement year of each cuvée. Louis Roederer has recently upgraded the visual of its cuvees – other than Cristal, which is to remain the same. Since the very beginning the bottle has been clear and flat-bottomed. This design was patented and because of and thanks to it, Cristal’s label and appearance have stayed the same since 1928. But the patent also means sticking to its clear-glass bottle, which is technically a catastrophic choice for fine, age-worthy champagne. Roederer’s way of tackling this problem has been the golden cellophane, in use since the 1970s. Although the visual is striking, Cristal should always be sold and stored with the cellophane on and in its box. Cristal is one of the few champagnes with a genuine secondary market and caution should be taken when buying old vintages, as this beauty, as an old lady, does not seem to take bad storage and travelling well. The latest innovation of Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon will bring a small solution to this matter, too, as he aims to release a different expression of Cristal, one that has been aged for a long time both pre- and post-disgorgement. A small release of the 1995 vintage will be released in 2015, or perhaps 2016, which will mean a batch of Cristal that has enjoyed 10 years on the lees and 10 years post-disgorgement. At 140 years of age Cristal is at the top of the wine world and ranked amongst the very best in terms of both quality and reputation. But as we witnessed during our discussion with the cellar master, there is nothing accidental about its success. It has taken a Cristalclear vision. >

94p 1979 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 2007 Louis Roederer Cristal 94p 1977 Louis Roederer Cristal 96p 2006 Louis Roederer Cristal 93p 1976 Louis Roederer Cristal 99p 2005 Louis Roederer Cristal 94p 1975 Louis Roederer Cristal 95p 2004 Louis Roederer Cristal 96p 1974 Louis Roederer Cristal 95p 2002 Louis Roederer Cristal 98p 1971 Louis Roederer Cristal 94p 2000 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1969 Louis Roederer Cristal 98p 1999 Louis Roederer Crista 93p 1966 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1997 Louis Roederer Cristal 96p 1962 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1996 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1961 Louis Roederer Cristal 99p 1995 Louis Roederer Cristal 94p 1955 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1994 Louis Roederer Cristal 91p 1953 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1993 Louis Roederer Cristal 92p 1990 Louis Roederer Cristal 96p 2006 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 95p 1989 Louis Roederer Cristal 95p 2000 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 94p 1988 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p 1995 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 98p 1986 Louis Roederer Cristal 93p 1982 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 96p 1985 Louis Roederer Cristal 92p 1979 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 94p 1982 Louis Roederer Cristal 98p WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM Jean-Baptiste ­Lécaillon and editor Essi Avellan MW toasting to the triumph of Cristal Rosé 2002 FINE Champagne 2009 Louis Roederer Cristal 147

Roederer Cristal 1953–2009 2009 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 4 times D 20 min / G 2 h 94p A continental, sunny year with a real winter that was very cold and dry followed by a glorious sun-filled summer and almost no rain in August and September. All this meant traditional vine growth, excellent health and remarkable grape ripeness for the production of dense, fruity and delicious wines. 2009 is an obvious addition to the select group of brilliant and accomplished Champagne vintages with a light, sunny character. 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay – 16% of wines are matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage. The wines have not undergone malolactic fermentation. Cristal is a blend of Grands Crus from the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. The wine is aged for 6 years in the cellars and left for a minimum of 8 months after disgorging to attain the perfect maturity. The dosage is 8 g/l. An seductive, soft and elegant nose: dried-apple, delicate floral and creamy shade. The ripe citrus aromas lingers perfectly, although the taste is firmer than the nose. It is an already refined yet deep wine with generous mouth-feel and lively mousse. Already delightfully enjoyable now, this radiant wine will benefit from years ageing in the bottle. 2007 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 8 times D 15 min / G 1 h 94p 2007 was a mostly warm year, characterised by unexpected and major weather events. A warm spring was followed by a cool summer. Drought had returned by the end of August. The end of the ripening process was excellent, and the harvests took place in ideal conditions. 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay – 15% of wines are matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage. The wines have not undergone malolactic fermentation. Cristal is a blend of grand crus from the Reims mountain, the Marne Valley and Côte des Blancs. Matured for 5 years in cellars – 8 months’ resting after disgorging. Dosage: 9.5g/l. The nose has aromas of white peach, apple and spun honey. This Cristal with firm minerals and crisp texture is in its opening phase. Aromas of ripe fruits, a hint of nuts and a steely fresh, acid structure. The taste feels harmonious, intense and alive. Drink now if you must but we prefer to wait at least 5 more years. 2006 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 19 times D 15 min / G 2 h 93p Cristal 2006 was a very warm year, characterised by contrasting rainfall patterns. Following on from an unusually cold and rainy August, a warm, dry September hastened up the ripening process producing distinctive, rich, complex grapes. 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay – 20% of wines are matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage. The wines have not undergone malolactic fermentation. Cristal is a blend of grand crus from the Reims mountain, the Marne Valley and Côte des Blancs. Matured for 5 years in cellars – 8 months’ resting after disgorging. An vibrant, flourishing and stylishly creamy bouquet with white flowers, bread and candied fried fruits. The taste begins to open up and it is rich, powerful and has lots of volume. The mousse is very fine and almost imperceptible. A feather light powerhouse, with elegant and harmonious 148 www.tastingbook.com taste with piercing acidity and fine floral notes, clean and long. The wine is becoming enjoyable, but there is no real rush to uncork it. 2005 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 12 times D 15 min / G 2 h 94p The 2005 vintage was a year of marked contrasts between seasons and regions. Following a fairly harsh winter, 2005 had a mild spring with relatively warm temperatures all year long. There was above average sunshine and a slight water deficit, as had been the case throughout the dry cycle of 2005/2004 and 2003. The heat and humidity in July produced larger grapes and bunches, rather unusually for the Champagne region, while the cooler weather in August, followed by a very sunny month of September, led to favourable ripening in spite of heavy parasite pressure. The harvest dates were “typical” of those of the decade: September 12th for Chardonnays and the following day for Pinots Noirs. Open, mineral and airy nose with clean fruitiness and several layers. Velvety and finely detailed texture with very fine mousse. Its cleanly stylistic and cool elegance suggests it will be an interesting wine in future. But as with Cristals, buy now and enjoy much later. 2004 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 10 times D 20 min / G 1 h 96p A classic, generous year, yielding both quantity and quality. 2004 followed the same climatic trends as 2002 – cool, moderate temperatures throughout the season; and a considerably reduced rainfall (by about 30%) during the growing cycle, which, despite a particularly cold and rainy month of August, was fortunately followed by a dry and sunny September, ripening the grapes off impressively. The Louis Roederer vineyard team worked intensively in this period, and by the 20th September the grapes had attained a “vintage” balance, combining maturity and freshness. 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay – 20% of wines are matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage. The wines have not undergone malolactic fermentation. Cristal is produced using harvests from the finest vineyards of Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. Cristal ages an average of 5 years in the cellars and rests 8 months after disgorgement to perfect its maturity. Bit closed but deep with lots of minerals and citrus, roasted nuts, white peach, Japanese pear, yellow apples, honey, curry & coconut. Lots going on, but needs air to open up. Full-bodied but super smooth and elegant, very focused and long with ripe white peach, yellow apples, Japanese pear, minerals, smoke, grilled nuts, coconut, butter. Perfect texture and balance. All ready open and charming but will keep and develop. 2002 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 19 times D 20 min / G 2 h 98p 2002 was a characteristically dry, warm year with outbreaks of heavy rain. August was a month of extremes, with rain followed by scorching temperatures then violent thundery intervals. An anticyclone at the start of September gave way to rain towards 8 September followed by fine weather that lasted throughout the harvest with the exception of light drizzle.

1999 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) 2000 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) A dream-come-true vintage combining volume (10 356 kg/ha), ripeness and remarkable acidity. This is as structured and long-lived as it gets, near immortal. Another positive characteristic is that there are still 1996s around to buy and stock for years to come. Every Cristal vintage requires time, but usually, one should allow the 1996 a further 5–10 years in the cellar. As Cristal has not gone through malolactic fermentation the acidity is phenomenal and to the liking of all high acidity champagne lovers. Persistent and fine small-sized bubbles in the glass. The nose is pure, pronounced and with some signs of development. Ripe fruitiness, lemon, brioche and ripe apple aromas overwhelm the taster. The palate is fresh and tart, slightly tight and closed still, but with remarkable concentration and length. This will undoubtedly develop into one of the best Cristals ever made. Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 28 times D 20 min / G 1 h 97p After growth got off to a flying start at the end of April beginning of May, flowering took place from 9–12 June. Rainfall in July was four times higher than average but August was quite sunny. The vineyards of Verzy, Verzenay, Aÿ and Epernay, were hit by a violent hail storm in July which destroyed approximately 45 hectares of vines. Morale was running low at the beginning of September. The vines were slow to mature due to bad weather. The soil was completely sodden. However, thanks to fine weather that held throughout the month of September the first juices registered 9.5° and even 10°, and acidity between 7.5 and 8. Nothing short of miraculous! For the first time in recorded history, the vintage started in all three regions on the same day: 18 September. The sun shone for the duration of the picking which lasted two weeks, and the harvest remained of remarkable quality from beginning to end. Unflagging attention, frequent quality controls, new picking sequences every day, and exceptionally healthy grapes: all these factors reflect the painstaking work of the growers and their skill in producing grapes capable of yielding great wines. 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. Cristal is produced using only the finest vintages from crus guaranteed to originate from the Louis Roederer vineyard. The wine is left to mature on yeast for an average of five years and spends a minimum period of eight months in the cellar after disgorgement. This wine is elegantly reserved with an intense nose, fresh fruitiness, cherry and almond aromas. The firm and linear structure has a perfect straightforward acidity. The fact that Cristal requires time to open is well known, and the good vintages like 2000, will surely require even more time. Long and crispy finish. Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 16 times D 20 min / G 1 h 93p Intense and ripe fruity nose. Roundness, with some edge on the palate. Great personality, full-bodied and chewy, but still youthful and restrained. Concentrated fruitiness with charm but most nuances are still hidden. Home-grown apples and caramel flavours; not much autolytic aromas at this stage. This vintage should ideally be kept in the cellar at least for another five years. 1997 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 27 times D 20 min / G 1 h FINE Champagne The vintage was marked by the outstanding quality of the grapes, registering a degree of alcohol content rarely achieved in Champagne. Highlights: an early-maturing year brought about by dry soil conditions that accelerated ripening; work in the vineyards to improve the quality of the yield: targeted manuring at the start of the season; pruning to restrict yields; crown suckering of fruit-bearing shoots to remove excess clusters; green harvesting over a total 20 ha area; sunny conditions throughout the month of September. These conditions allowed us to start harvesting on 12 September in the Côte des Blancs, September 13 in the Marne Valley, and 16 September in the Montagne de Reims. Harvesting in each vineyard sector lasted 13 days and pickers were in excellent spirits. From the beginning of the harvest, grapes registered 11–12.2º alcohol with a consistent acidity level of 7g/l. Average yield of 12.280 kg/ha, overall productivity targets. The quality of the grapes was remarkable throughout the vineyard. 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. Cristal is produced using only the finest vintages from crus guaranteed to originate from the Louis Roederer vineyard. The wine is left to mature on yeast for an average of five years and spends a minimum period of eight months in the cellar after disgorgement. A bit closed nose but with layers of roasted nuts, yellow apples, deep and very seductive, Japanese pear, hints of butter, curry and brioche. Perfect Cristal nose but still not completely open. Full bodied, full throttle palate with ripe yellow apples, ripe citrus, Japanese pear, hints of nuts, ripe peach, cane sugar, brioche, white flowers. Very rich mid palate but at the same time very vibrant and long with an amazing grip and lots of mineral notes on the never ending finish. Amazing! 96p The 1997 vintage has been suffering throughout its existence from its unfortunate destiny of being the successor to the superb 1996. It was a good year with less structure but charming fruitiness offering enjoyable purchases for mid-term drinking. Cristal is never a wine that comes around young, and the 1997 is no exception. Bright yellow colour and small-sized energetic bubbles. The nose is somewhat closed. Aromas of green apples and green asparagus and some yeasty notes are detectable. Mouth filling mousse and refreshing firm acidity. Aromas of lemon and herbs complement the rich body. Edgy finish with high mineral and green aroma character. A closed wine that requires more years in the bottle to open and show its full potential. 1996 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 31 times D 25 min / G 2 h 1995 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 20 times D 15 min / G 1 h 97p 94p Youthful medium lemony colour, lively small-sized bubbles. The nose is highly restrained and non-expressive - early in the process of maturation. Classically elegant. Balanced and ripe sweet fruitiness, subtle smoky, mineral and brioche aspects. The ripeness of the vintage is more evident on the rich fat palate, offering impressive weight and roundness. Very pure fruitiness and fresh acidity. Worthy of its reputation. This will come around fairly soon. Give it 5–10 years and it will shine. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 149

Roederer Cristal 1953–2009 1994 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 22 times D 15 min / G 1 h 91p The vintage 1994 was by means one of the best in Champagne. However, Roederer manages to produce great Cristal also on lesser vintages. This wine was fairly open for its age and will not be one of the longest-lived Cristals. However, a great joy to enjoy now and for the next ten years. Attractive bright yellow colour with signs of development. Small-sized elegantly behaving bubbles in the glass. The nose is pure, fruity and focused: apple, dried fruits, toast, acasia and honey. Mushroom notes in the beginning, which faded with some aeration. The medium-bodied palate is structured and linear yet combined to adequate richness. Lacking the charm of riper vintages. The wine is harmonious from the beginning until the long end. A great bottle of champagne, however not a great bottle of Cristal. Drinking well today, but will develop positively for the next 10 years. 1993 Cristal Roederer (Champange) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 12 times D 15 min / G 1 h 92p Youthful lemony colour and long-lasting bubbles. Developing toasty and ripe fruity nose. Apple, honey and brioche. The restrained mouth-feel is fresh and linear, awaking future expectations. Attractive nuances of toffee, coffee and nuttiness. Positive development in the glass. A Cristal for midterm drinking. 1990 Cristal Roederer (Champange) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 17 times D 15 min / G 1 h 96p The very warm March quickened the blooming and due to this the area suffered from some spring freezes. Irregular pollenization and incomplete fruit development were problems. Good weather with intense heat and precipitation at the right moments assured an exceptional maturation. Alcohol and acidity levels were exceptional, yields substantial. A top vintage by any measure! This vintage was very successful at Cristal too producing wine with great ageing potential but an instant charm. Deep developing light yellow colour. Classic nose with refreshing floral aromas combined with ripe apple fruit. Very fresh and crisp palate with youthful character. Delicate creaminess softens the racy acidity. Very long mineral finish. Truly classic wine with great potential. 1989 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 19 times D 15 min / G 1 h 95p Medium-deep yellow colour. Youthful, elegantly toasty nose with fresh floral nuances, nuts and marshmallow. The bouquet is still lean and restrained. Mocha and toffee flavours. Youthful but well-integrated mousse. Harmonious, complex and on its way up. Lovely. 1988 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 22 times D 20 min / G 1 h 97p Roederer blends its prestigious Cristal from 60-65 base wines based on blind tasting only. 55% of the blend comprises of Pinot Noir and the remaining 150 www.tastingbook.com part is reserved for Grand Cru Chardonnay. Cristal’s splendour originates in the vineyards as Roederer still owns a lion’s share of the vineyards that produce Cristal. 25+ year old vines from own parcels produce base wine of 1 degree more potential alcohol compared to the purchased grapes. One of Cristal’s secrets is in its non-maloed nature. Roederer seeks the highest possible acidity, which combines to create a perfectly ripe fruitiness. The 1988 vintage started the 3-year consecutive span of great vintages. Classical year of powerful and fruity wines, whose acidity makes them very fine and long-lived. As Cristal is a true vin de garde, this magnificent 1988 is still waiting to reach its full potential. Developed deep colour with beige tinge and a hint of cloudiness. Ripe delicious nose with honey, raisins, orange marmalade. Fruit-driven, nutty and citrus nose with layers and layers showing after some time in the glass. Some development especially in the nose but the palate remains slightly restrained but packed with future potential. Razor-sharp acidic spine brings elegance and a feeling of lightness to this very concentrated wine with amazing length and depth. The wine is just approaching its prime drinking age, but could definitely benefit from a long bottle-ripening. 1986 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 11 times D 15 min / G 1 h 93p Deep golden colour with lively, long-lasting effervescence. Roasted and toasty, rich nose of dried fruits, floral notes and crème brûlée. Velvety texture with sharpness. Great weight and depth. 1985 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 17 times D 10 min / G 1 h 92p Crystal-clear golden colour with medium depth. Perfectly integrated, miniscule bubbles Youthful nose of fresh herbs, ripe fruit aromas, baked apple, honey and brioche. The aromas are starting to develop towards tertiary. Very stylish palate with lean and long style. Vigorous yet smooth mousse. An excellent bottle of champagne that is still working its way to the peak. 1982 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 13 times D 10 min / G 1 h 98p Bright deep golden colour. A clean, but powerfully mature character: walnuts and toast. Waxy, dried fruit and apricot nose. Harmonious palate with high acididity, lively amazingly smooth mousse and a vinous rich texture. Soft and mellow wine. Long-lasting raisiny and waxy finish. At a great drinking age now but there is no rush. 1979 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 24 times D 10 min / G 1 h 97p Deep golden colour, steady slow flow of bubbles. Strong toasty and mushroomy fruity and round nose. Excellent tight-knitted structure. All elements in harmony, linear acidity bringing a great freshness and youthfulness to the wine. Beautiful wine that is drinking well today. Due to harmonious nature can be kept for 10 more years.

Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 6 times D 5 min / G 1 h 96p Glossy medium golden colour, some effervescence. Harmonious and restrained nose of toast, spice, floral complexity and caramel. Fresh and lean palate with lively stylish mousse. Elegant and fresh champagne, where all pieces fit together. Not one of the greatest Cristals though. Long harmonious aftertaste. Drink now – 10 years. 1976 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2015 / Tasted 11 times D 10 min / G 1 h 99p An excellent looking bottle. The cork opened easily with a lively sound. Bright gold colour. Lots of complexity and class on the nose. Tiny, lively bubbles. Extremely rich, round and complete champagne. Very fresh, mellow, smooth and elegant. A super long, fat and complex aftertaste, which lasts forever. A very special champagne, one of the best Cristals! 1975 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 9 times D 5 min / G 1 h 95p There is a lot of variability in the 1975s. The vintage witnessed a late bud break and hot summer weather. Lack of direct sunshine postponed the harvest, which averaged fairly high at 9082 kg/ha. There was attractive fruit intensity and high acidity, which should account for long-lived wines. Cristal alongside Clos des Goisses are in a remarkably youthful form today with no rush to open them. Clean, pure and fruity attractively developing nose. Fresh spicy and bready aromatics. Lightness of autolytic characters combined with a lemony tartness makes the wine appear incredibly youthful and lively. Smallsized bubbles on the mousse contribute to the feeling of roundness. Elegant, charmingly fruity wine with an acidic spine that can age harmoniously for another 10 years or more. 1974 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2015 / Tasted 6 times D 5 min / G 1 h 95p A very seductive nose of cream and gingerbread. A velvety feel combined with simultaneous strength and extreme cleanliness is brought to life by the good acidity. The taste is unmistakably soft and silkiness. The 1974 vintage’s ensemble is harmonious and is both refined and profound. An excellent wine for the vintage! 1971 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 11 times D 10 min / G 1 h 94p The year was characterized by uneven weather conditions throughout the growing season. Storms in late July and a disastrous hail in August limited the yield. Continuous hot weather in September further contributed to the tiny average crop of 5 100 kg/ha. But in most cases the quality was exceptionally high despite some wines that suffered from medium-low acidity. There is nothing wrong with Cristal’s acidity, however. Developed deep golden colour and lively small-sized bubbles in the glass. The nose is intensely fruity and impeccably stylish: toast, honey, apple and caramelized sugar and some spiciness. Full mouth fell with smooth silky texture and lively elegant mousse. Great example of Cristal that is at its peak, but will keep there for at least five more years. 1969 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 10 times D 5 min / G 45 min 98p Attractive golden colour. Ripe and mature delightful nose. Layered and charming aromas of honey, toastiness, rosemary and caramel. Sheer perfection in the glass with a soft mousse refreshing the rich mouthful. Wonderful acidic backbone with real grip. Enticing flavours of ginger, cinnamon and chiken tikka. Seamless, chewy wine that invites you to taste and drink it. I have recently tasted three bottles of the 1969. One of them was perfect – close to a 100 point wine. The second was very good (94p) and the third disappointingly oxidized. In champagne of this age, the storage conditions are critical and bottle variation is common. 1966 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 4 times D – / G 30 min FINE Champagne 1977 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) 97p Cristal 1966 has a very strong, open and flavourful bouquet. The bubbles were small, typical to Cristal, and they moved in a tight flock - just as small pearls were rising to the surface to give the wine solemnity. The nose was so giving that compared to it the wine felt at first a little reserved on the palate. After a short delay it however almost exploded in the mouth giving an extremely aromatic and abundant tasting experience. A perfectly cultivated, many layered and coolly refined, mature wine! 1962 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2012 / Tasted 5 times D 10 min / G 30 min 97p This was an outstanding wine as an aperitif. Appealing yellow gold with fine but few bubbles. Rich and wide nose showed surprisingly youthful. Absolutely complete wine with creamy, toasty flavours and some fresh ­acidity till left. Enourmously full and intense with good harmony and ­balance – a superb wine. 1961 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 4 times D 15 min / G 20 min 99p The 1961 was a magnificent vintage in most regions of France. Champagne had challenges in the early part of the growing season but eventually ripening proceeded well and yielded some remarkable wines in below average yields but with attractive richness and structured acidity. This vintage is usually awarded 4 stars in Champagne. It is a vintage whose best champagnes are very enjoyable today with fine bubbles still alive in these fully mature wines. Champagne was very different from today in 1961. Surface area under production was 12,033 ha compared to 31,924 ha in 2005. Average grape prices were in the range of 2,90 Fr whereas they were 6,60 € in 2016. Therefore if one manages to find some well cellared bottles there will be some great deals to be made. Cristal was one of the most successful and rarest champagnes of the year, sheer perfection to our senses. Excellent bottle with good level. A glossy medium-deep golden colour with a delicate orange tinge. An extremely vinous nose of dried fruits, brioche and nuts. A very light sparkle remains in the wine, but this champagne has such a great structure and texture that one does not miss the sensation of bubbles. A fine acid structure refreshes this lively and rich wine. A refined and velvety mouth-feel with a full-body and a long harmonious finish. A monumental example of champagne’s capabilities. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 151

Roederer Cristal 1953–2009 1955 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 4 times D 5 min / G 30 min 97p Cristal is one of those rare champagnes that truly blossom after long bottle ageing. It almost hurts to consume Cristal too young, since it really reveals its true character after 20-30 years of age and evolves beautifully decades after that. This wine is again a great proof of that. The vintage 1955 turned out to be a superior vintage that resulted in a large crop of excellent quality grapes. Golden bright colour with small quickly evaporating bubbles. Intense and complex nose that has opened wonderfully. Touch of toastiness, nuttiness, dried fruits, apricots, and apples with honeyed overtones. The still crisp and vinous taste shows lesser mousse but really intense and concentrated minerality combined with nutty dried fruit characteristics. Lovely long finish with lemon tart and brioche flavours. Drink up with good company. 1953 Cristal Roederer (Champagne) Last tasted 2015 / Tasted 5 times D 5 min / G 15 min 97p This 1953 Cristal was in remarkably good condition. Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Decanted 30 minutes before tasting. Very irresistible exotic and sweet, floral nose. Delicate, creamy – lots of class on palate. It has a beautiful silky seduction and gentle, soft finish. Taste went on and on. Great champagne that has held extremely well. 2006 Cristal Rosé Roederer (Champagne) 95p Last tasted 2017 / Tasted 6 times D 20 min / G 1 h 2006 was a very warm year, featuring contrasting rainfall conditions. After an unusually cool and rainy August, September’s warm, dry weather accelerated fruit maturation and produced distinctive, rich, and complex grapes. A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay – 20% of wines are matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage. The wines have not undergone malolactic fermentation. Louis Roederer’s Rosé champagnes are always produced using the saignée (bleeding) process after cold maceration for 5 to 8 days in the liquid phase. The Cristal Rosé cuvée is aged, on average, for 6 years in Roederer’s cellars and left for 8 months after dégorgement (disgorging) to attain the perfect balance. Deep shade of salmon pink colour. A fresh nose: primary shade of fresh fruit with aromas of minerals and roasted almons. Pinot Noir domination is present, but the wine is still very young. Perfectly rich structure and very harmonious mouth-feel hold promises of graceful aging and of a firm and an elegant entity. 2000 Cristal Rosé Roederer (Champagne) 94p Last tasted 2016 / Tasted 8 times D 20 min / G 45 min After growth got off to a flying start at the end of April beginning of May, flowering took place from 9–12 June. Rainfall in July was four times higher than average but August was quite sunny. The vineyards of Verzy, Verzenay, Aÿ and Epernay, were hit by a violent hail storm in July which destroyed approximately 45 hectares of vines. Morale was running low at the beginning of September. The vines were slow to mature due to bad weather. The soil was completely sodden. However, thanks to fine weather that held throughout the month of September the first juices registered 9.5° and even 10°, and acidity between 7.5 and 8. Nothing short of miraculous! 152 www.tastingbook.com For the first time in recorded history, the vintage started in all three regions on the same day: 18 September. The sun shone for the duration of the picking which lasted two weeks, and the harvest remained of remarkable quality from beginning to end. Unflagging attention, frequent quality controls, new picking sequences every day, and exceptionally healthy grapes: all these factors reflect the painstaking work of the growers and their skill in producing grapes capable of yielding great wines. The cuvée Cristal Rosé is produced exclusively from the best grapes of Louis Roederer's "Premier Cru" vineyards, primarily those of Aÿ, Verzenay, Verzy and Cumières for the Pinot Noir and Oger and Avize for the Chardonnay. To make its rosé champagnes, Louis Roederer uses the cold "skin-contact" maceration technique, a traditional method in which the must is left to macerate for several days in the press to extract the natural pigments. To obtain the unique colour and style of this particular rosé, Louis Roederer uses Pinot Noir from the village of Aÿ which yield extremely ripe grapes of outstanding aromatic concentration, and Chardonnay from Le Mesnil sur Oger and Avize. Cristal Rosé requires an average maturation period of 5 years on the lees. Like all Louis Roederer champagnes, after being disgorged, it is left for another six months to allow for perfect blending. Beautiful glowing almost yellow colour with orange hues. Stylish, not very rosé-like nose. Waxy and layered; dried fruits. Stylish, rich and full bodied palate that is already surprisingly open and enjoyable. Chewy and muscular with a great acidic backbone. Well built. Medium autolytic influence and a long finish. Very youthful with more nuances and a better harmony to gain. 1995 Cristal Rosé Roederer (Champagne) 98p Last tasted 2015 / Tasted 6 times D 20 min / G 1 h This is one of the rarest prestige champagnes as barely one thousand bottles are produced. The wine is based on the blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from the best crus. Bright, very pale salmon rosé colour with very refined bubbles. Charming and elegant but still closed on the nose with a touch of orange peel and jasmine aromas. Dry, crisp acidity and very delicate rich mousse in the palate. Very intense taste with lingonberry and wild strawberry flavours. Long lingering mineral finish of outstanding elegance. 1982 Cristal Rosé Roederer (Champagne) 96p Last tasted 2015 / Tasted 5 times D 20 min / G 1 h Light salmon rose colour with refined bubbles. Very delightful nose with strawberries, bisquit and hints of toastiness. Very crisp light-bodied wine with a persistant and mouth-capturing mousse, reflecting marked minerality and lovely brioche flavours that are enhanced by delicate strawberry aromas. Long, lingering finish. 1979 Cristal Rosé Roederer (Champagne) 94p Last tasted 2013 / Tasted 4 times D 15 min / G 1 h Superb magnum. Decanted ten minutes. Full goldish colour, only a little pink. Delicate intense and toasty nose with some perfumed tropical fruit and toffee tones. Very powerful, aromatic wine, full bodied and mouthfilling toasty flavours, redcurrant and strawberry fruit. Good acidity and a long fresh, finish with white chocolate and apple flavours. Very pleasant now but should develop well in the bottle.

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FINE Science BORDEAUX WINE VINTAGE QUALITY AND THE WEATHER “Nor let thy vineyard bend toward the sun when setting” Text: Orley Ashenfelter, David Ashmore, Robert Lalonde Photos: Pekka Nuikki I n this article we show that the quality of the vintage for red Bordeaux wines, as judged by the prices of mature wines, can be predicted by the weather during the growing season that produced the wines. Red Bordeaux wines have been produced in the same place and in much the same way for hundreds of years. When young, the wines from the best vineyards are astringent, and many people find them unpleasant to consume. As these wines age they lose their astringency and many people find them very pleasant to consume. Because Bordeaux wines taste better when they are older, there is an incentive to store the young wines until they are mature. As a result, there is an active market in young wines (similar to “new issues” in the securities markets) and an active market in older wines (similar to the secondary markets in securities). Surprisingly, the weather information that is so useful in predicting the prices of the mature wines plays little or no role in setting the prices of the young wines. We show that young wines are usually overpriced relative to what we would predict based on the weather and the price of the old wines. As the young wines age, however, their prices usually converge to our predictions. This implies that “bad” vintages are over-priced when they are young, and that “good” vintages may sometimes be under-priced when they are young. Rational buyers should avoid bad vintages when they are young, but they may sometimes wish to purchase good vintages. Although the evidence suggests that the market for older wines is relatively efficient, it implies that the market for younger wines is very inefficient. Why don’t the purchasers of young wines wait and buy them when they are mature? And why do purchasers ignore the weather that produced the vintage in making their decisions? Although there are no simple answers to these questions, we discuss one possible explanation in the final section of this article. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 157

BORDEAUX WINE VINTAGE Q The best wines of Bordeaux are made from grapes grown on specific plots of land and the wine is named after the property (or chateau) where the grapes are grown. In fact, knowledge of the chateau and vintage provides most of the information about the quality of the wine. That is, if we imagine 10 vintages and 6 chateaux, there are, in principle, 60 different wines of different quality. However, knowing the reputations of the 6 chateaux and the 10 vintages is sufficient to determine the quality of all 60 wines. That is, good vintages produce good wines in all vineyards and the best wines in each vintage are usually produced by the best vineyards. Although this point is sometimes denied by those who produce the wines, and especially by those who sell the young wines, it is easy to establish its truth by reference to the prices of the mature wines. To demonstrate the point, Table 1 indicates the current market price in London of 6 Bordeaux chateaux from the 10 vintages from 1960-1969. These chateaux were selected because they are large producers and their wines appear frequently in the secondary (auction) markets. (A blank in the table indicates that the wine has not appeared in the market recently. Lower quality vintages are typically the first to leave the market.) The vintages from 1960–1969 are selected because, by the 1990s, these wines are fully mature and there is little remaining uncertainty about their quality. From the table it is obvious that knowledge of the row means and the column means is sufficient to predict most of the prices in the table. (The explained variance from a regression of the logarithm of the price on chateau and vintage dummies is over 90%.) A ranking of the chateaux in order of quality based on their prices would be Latour, (Lafite, Cheval Blanc), PichonLalande, (Cos d’Estournel, Montrose). 158 www.tastingbook.com Price Index Vineyards and Vintages Figure 1. Red bordeaux wines, price relative to 1961 vintage year. In fact, as Edmund Penning-Rowsell points out in his classic book The Wines of Bordeaux, the famous 1855 classification of the chateaux of Bordeaux into quality grades was based on a similar assessment by price alone. Surprisingly, the 1855 classification ranks these chateaux in only a slightly different order: Lafite, Latour, Pichon-Lalande, Cos d’Estournel, and Montrose. (Cheval Blanc was not ranked in 1855.) Likewise, a ranking of the quality of the vintages based on price alone would be 1961, 1966, (1962, 1964), 1967. The remaining vintages (1960, 1963, 1965, 1968, 1969) would be ranked inferior to these 5, but, perhaps because of this fact, many of the wines from these inferior vintages are no longer sold in the secondary market. Real Rate of Return to Holding Bordeaux Wine It is natural to ask why the prices of mature wines from a single chateau, made in the same way from grapes grown in the same place by the same winemaker, would differ so dramatically from vintage to vintage, as is indicated by Table 1. There are two obvious explanations for this vintage variability. First, the older wines have been held longer, and so they must bear a normal rate of return. This fact alone would make the older wines more expensive than the younger ones. Second, the quality of the wines of different vintages may vary because the quality of the grapes used to make the wines varies. Figure 1 provides a test of the hypothesis that the price of the wines varies because of their age. In this figure (and throughout the remainder of the paper) we use as a measure of the price of a vintage an index based on the wines of several chateaux. The chateaux are deliberately selected to represent the most expensive wines (Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Cheval Blanc) as well as a selection of wines that are less expensive (Ducru Beaucaillou, Leoville Las Cases, Palmer, Pichon Lalande, Beychevelle, Cos d’Estournel, Giscours, Gruaud-Larose, and Lynch-Bages).

We construct the index of vintage price from a regression of the logarithm of the price from several thousand auction sales on dummy variables indicating the chateau and the vintages. (The precise composition of the sample has very little effect on the results.) The regression coefficients for the vintage dummies are then used to construct the vintage index. This provides a simple way to construct a vintage index in the presence of an unbalanced sample design. (We compute the antilogarithm of these coefficients and then express the price relative to the index price for 1961. This is merely a convenient normalization and affects only the intercept in the regressions reported below.) Figure 1 is a scatter diagram of the logarithm of the price of the wines of a vintage against the vintage year. (The vintages of 1954 and 1956 are not plotted, as these wines are now rarely sold. These two vintages are generally considered to be the poorest in their decade.) It is apparent from the diagram that there is a negatively inclined relationship. The slope of the regression line through these points is -.035. This is an estimate of (the negative of ) what economists sometimes call the real product rate of return to holding Bordeaux wines. A “real product rate of return” is a number such that its reciprocal indicates how many bottles of wine one would have to keep in the cellar in order to be able to consume one bottle per year in perpetuity. These data indicate that it would be necessary to have about 28 bottles in a perpetual cellar that was intended to support the consumption of 1 bottle per year. With a cellar of this size the proceeds from the sale of the older vintages would be just sufficient to restock the cellar and provide the consumption of one bottle. Since it is denominated in bottles of wine rather than dollars, this measure does not tell us what the return to holding wine denominated in generalized purchasing power (money) is. We have analyzed the relationship between the (log) price of Bordeaux wine and its age for many individual chateaux. So long as sample includes at least 20 ­vintages, we invariably obtain a negative slope to this relationship of around -.03. It is notable that the study of the various FINE Science QUALITY AND THE WEATHER vintages of wine provides so reliable and simple a measure of the real rate of return. As we shall see, most of the remaining variation in the price of the wine of different vintages is due to variation from vintage to vintage in the weather that produced the grapes. Vintages and the Weather It is well known that the quality of any fruit, in general, depends on the weather during the growing season that produced the fruit. What is not so widely understood, is that in some localities the weather will vary dramatically from one year to the next. In California, for example, it never rains in the summer, and it is always warm in the summer. There is a simple reason for this. In California a high pressure weather system settles each summer over the California coast and produces a warm, dry growing season for the grapes planted there. In Bordeaux this sometimes happens--but usually it does not. Great vintages for Bordeaux wines correspond to the years in which August and September are dry, the growing season is warm, and the previous winter has been wet. Figure 2 establishes that it is hot, dry summers that produce the vintages in which the mature wines obtain the higher prices. This figure displays for each vintage the summer temperature from low to high as you move from left to right, and the harvest rain from low to high as you move from top to bottom. Vintages that sell for an above average price are displayed in dark shading, and vintages that sell for a below average price are displayed in light shading. About Average Price Below Average Price If the weather is the key determinant of wine quality, then the dark points should be in the northeast quadrant of the diagram and the light points should be in the southwest quadrant of the diagram. It is apparent that this is precisely the case. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 159

Table 2. Regressions of the (Logarithm of) Price of Different Vintages of a Portfolio of Bordeaux Château Wines on weather Variables Figure 2 the data Stanford University) for informal advice. for the vintages Moses suggested two informal tests. (a) from 1981-1992. Would the last major “out of sample” preTwo things are imdiction have been correct? The idea here is Independent variables to use the past to indirectly test the ability mediately apparAge of vintage 0.0354 0.0238 0.0240 of the relationship to stretch beyond the ent from the fig (0.0137) (0.00717) (.00747) available data. In fact, the last major “out ure. First, all but Average temperature 0.616 0.606 of sample” prediction for which all uncerone of these recent over growing season (0.0952) (0.116) (April–September) tainty has been resolved is the vintage of vintages (1986) Rain in September and -0.00386 -0.00380 1961, which had the lowest August- Sepwas produced by August (0.00081) (0.000950) tember rainfall in Bordeaux history. Just as a growing season Rain in the months 0.001173 0.00115 the unusual weather predicted, the market that was warmer proceeding the (0.000482) (0.000505) (see Table 1), and most wine lovers, have than what is hisvintage come to consider this an outstanding vintorically “normal.” (October–March) tage. (b) Is the warmth of the 1989 and It is no accident Average temperature 0.00765 1990 growing seasons in Bordeaux greater that many Europein September (0.0666) than the normal warmth in other places ans believe global 0.212 0.828 0.828 A2 Root mean squared 0.575 0.287 0.293 where similar grapes are grown? The idea warming may error here is to determine whether the temperaalready be here! NOTES: All regressions use as data the vintages of 1952–1980, excluding ture in Bordeaux is abnormal by compariThis unusual run the 1954 and 1958 vintages, which are now rarely sold: all regressions son with grape growing regions that may of extraordinary contain an intercept, which is not reported: the data (and a readme file) be even warmer. In fact, the temperature weather has almost are also available by anonymous ftp in the pubwine directory of ins. princeton.edu. in 1989 or 1990 in Bordeaux was no highcertainly resulted Standard errors are in parenthesis er than the average temperature in the Bain a huge quantity rossa Valley of South Australia or the Napa of excellent, but Valley in California, places where high Even ­anomalies, like the 1973 vintage, immature red Bordeaux wine. quality red wines are made from similar tend to corroborate the fact that the weathgrape types. er determines the quality of the wines. The Second, the weather that created the vinBased on these two informal tests, we wines of this vintage, which are of sometages of 1989 and 1990 appears to be quite are convinced that both the 1989 and what above average quality, have always exceptional by any standard. Is it appro1990 vintages in Bordeaux are likely to sold at relatively low prices; insiders know priate to predict that the wines of these be outstanding. Many wine writers have that they are often bargains. vintages will be of outstanding quality made the same predictions in the trade Table 2 contains a regression of the when the temperature that produced them magazines. Of course, it is still too early (log) price of the vintage on the age of is so far outside the normal range? Before to determine whether the wines will fulfill the vintage and the weather variables inmaking the prediction for 1989 we did, in their promise. dicated. In practice, the weather variables fact, turn to Professor Lincoln Moses (of are almost uncorrelated with each other and with the age of the vintage. As a result, the regression equation is remarkably robust to the addition of other variables. The second row of the table contains the basic “Bordeaux equation,” while the third row shows the effect on the regression of adding the temperature in September as an additional variable. It is obvious that this variable does not have a statistically significant coefficient and, indeed, in further experimentation we have not found any other statistically significant variables to add to the regression. It is possible, of course, to predict the relative price at which the new vintage should be sold as soon as the growing season is complete. In fact, we have been doing this for several years and publishing the results in the newsletter LIQUID ASSETS: 1952–1980 1981–1991 The International Guide to Fine Wines. The basic idea for these predictions is displayed in Figure 3. Here we have added to 160 www.tastingbook.com

4. Market Inefficiency It is natural to inquire as to the prices at which the wines listed in Table 1 were sold when the wines were first offered on the market. In particular, were the relative prices of the young wines good forecasts of the relative prices the mature wines now fetch? It is difficult to answer this question because the young wines were all sold in different time periods and at prices that are not generally known. Instead, we have explored a closely related question: Were the relative prices of the vintages when they were first sold in the auction market good forecasts of the relative prices of the mature wines? And were the prices of the young wines, viewed as forecasts of the prices of the mature wines, as good as the predictions made using the data on the weather alone? Table 3 reveals the answer to both of these questions. In this table we have listed, for each calendar year from 1971-1989, the price of the portfolio of wines from each vintage relative to the price of the portfolio of wines from the 1961, 1962, 1964, and 1966 vintages. The benchmark vintage portfolio is a simple average of the 1961, 1962, 1964 and 1966 vintage indexes. The second column gives the value of the benchmark portfolio in pounds sterling in the year indicated, and provides a general measure of the overall inflation in wine prices in the London auction markets. The entries for each of the vintages in the remaining columns are simply ratios of the prices of the wines in each vintage to the benchmark portfolio in column 1 of the table. The 1961, 1962, 1964, and 1966 vintages were selected for the benchmark because the weather data in Figure 2 predict they would be good, and the wines from these vintages are, no doubt as a consequence, still widely traded. The vintages that are studied in the table include all those between 1961 and 1972. FINE Science Table 1. London Auction Prices for Selected Mature Red Bordeaux Wines, 1990–1991 (per dozen bottles in $US) Listed in the bottom row of the table is the predicted relative price of the vintage as taken from the “Bordeaux equation” in Table 2. The data in Table 3 confirm two remarkable facts. First, most of these older vintages began their lives in the auction markets at prices which are far above what they will ultimately fetch. For example, the bottom row of the tables indicates that, based on the weather, the wines of a vintage like 1967 would have been expected to sell for about one-half the price of an average of the wines from the 1961, 1962, 1964 and 1966 vintages. In fact, the wines entered the auction markets in 1972 at about 50% more than expected, and slowly drifted down in relative price over the years. Second, the predicted prices from the “Bordeaux equation,” which is fit from an entirely different set of data, are remarkably good indicators of the prices at which the mature wines will ­u ltimately trade. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 161

One interesting way to see the inefficiency in this market is to compare the prices of the vintages of 1962, 1964, 1967, and 1969 in calendar year 1972. As the weather data in Figure 2 indicate, and the prediction in the bottom row of Table 3 confirms, we should have expected (in 1972) that the 1962 and 1964 vintages would sell for considerably more than the vintages of both 1967 and 1969. In fact, in 1972 these four vintages fetched nearly identical prices, in sharp contrast to what the weather would have indicated. By around 1979 the prices of the 1969s and 1967s had fallen to around what would have been predicted from the weather. It is apparent from Table 3 that most vintages are “over- priced” when the wines are first offered on the auction market and that this state of affairs often persists for ten years or more following the year of the vintage. The over-pricing of the vintages is especially apparent for those vintages which, from the weather, we would predict are the poorest. This suggests that, in large measure, the ability of the weather to predict the quality of the wines is ignored by the early purchasers of the wines. An interesting recent example of this phenomenon is the 1986 vintage. As Figure 162 www.tastingbook.com 3 indicates, this is a vintage that, based on the weather, we should expect to be “average.” Compared to the other vintages of the last decade, this vintage should fetch a considerably lower price. In fact, the vintage was launched with great fanfare as among the finest two vintages of the decade. The wines were sold at similar, and sometimes higher, prices to initial buyers than the wines of the other vintages of the past decade. The enthusiasm for these wines has dampened somewhat because they have not fetched auction prices higher than those of the other vintages in the decade. We should expect that, in due course, the prices of these wines will decline relative to the prices of most of the other vintages of the 1980s Conclusion Why does the market for immature red Bordeaux wines appear to be so inefficient when the market for mature wines appears to be so efficient? We think there may be several related explanations. The current Bordeaux marketing system has the character of an agricultural income stabilization system, and this may be its purpose. Com- plete income stabilization for the growers would require that the price of the young wines be inversely related to the quantity produced, and independent of the quality. Although the actual pricing of young Bordeaux wines falls short of this ideal, it is clearly closer to it than would occur if purchasers used the information available from the weather for determining the quality of the wines. The producers do attempt to raise prices when crops are small, despite the evidence that the quantity of the wines (determined by the weather in the spring) is generally unrelated to the quality of the wines. Moreover, it is common for the proprietors to claim that each vintage is a good one, independent of the weather that produced it. Indeed, there is no obvious incentive for an individual proprietor to ever claim anything else! A more fundamental question arises about the motives of the early purchasers of the wines. Why have they ignored the evidence that the weather during a grape growing season is a fundamental and easily measured determinant of the quality of the mature wines? And will they continue to do so as the evidence for the predictability of the quality of new vintages accumulates? >

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Au s t r a l i of the C 164 www.tastingbook.com

F I N E Wine of the Century a’ s ‘ W i n e e n t u ry ’ Text: Ken Gargett Photos: Pekka Nuikki A wine competition with a difference. A quest to seek out the very best wine made in Australia this century. This was not your run-of-the-mill wine show with thousands of entries and panels of judges handing out a plethora of gold, silver and bronze medals. This was winner take all. One wine to rule them all. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 165

F ine’s ‘Best of the Century’ varied from traditional Aussie judging in numerous ways. There was only one panel consisting of five judges. Pekka Nuikki, founder of the Fine Group, and Meri Kukkavaara, publishing editor of Fine Champagne, were the European contingent, with Meri acting as an Associate for the purposes of scoring. Local vineyard/winery valuer, wine auctioneer and winner of the Vin de Champagne competition in the long distant past, Colin Gaetjens, together with writers, Nick Ryan and myself, were the home team. Judges from different countries, let alone hemispheres, do have varying approaches. One man’s 88 is another’s 93, but as long as each judge remains consistent, this becomes less of an issue when scores are tallied and averaged. More relevant is that different backgrounds often lead to different tastes. Nick and myself see an endless parade of Australian wines, usually youthful ones at that (of course, we see many wines from Europe as well), while our Europeans obviously have palates more in tune to the Old World. Colin’s experience probably places him somewhere incbetween. It does mean subtle preferences in varying styles, but this is to be welcomed. 166 www.tastingbook.com A further difference was that the wines were really only broken up into white and red, not different varieties or regions. All Australian wineries were welcome to submit wines. The only restriction was that they be from this century. Hence it meant that Pinot Noir was pitted against Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling matching it with Shiraz and so forth. One could argue that this meant apples were compared with oranges, but in reality, it was little different to the final trophy of most shows – namely, best wine of show. It was simply that this was the only prize on offer here – that said, and if I may invoke the usual sporting clichés, there were no losers. The standard was extremely high across the board. Given the nature of the competition, we had on offer, a far smaller number of wines to judge – somewhere north of 50 wines. All were tasted blind, of course. The aim was to try and keep things to a single wine from each winery, possibly two – this meant that they made the initial choice as to what was the best they had to offer. Some “flouted” this by sending in a number of wines, but in the end, we were happy to consider all entries. Many wineries responded – others, with wines one felt might have been serious contenders, did not, but that is a problem universal to all shows. The top half dozen wines, in both red and white categories, were then re-tasted by all judges to select the overall winner. There was none of the usual ‘horsetrading’. The scores were simply tallied and divided. We judged out of 100, not 20. Of course, when the tasting was held, we were only 10-15% into the wines we will see during this century (10-15% as many reds, from vintages where the whites have already hit the market, are still in winery cellars) and there will be many, many great wines yet to be made. It was never intended as a final statement – indeed, we intend to repeat on the exercise on future occasions. Even in the time since the competition, we have seen many wines, which would rank extremely highly. Penfolds’ stars like 2010 Grange and 2010 St Henri; Brokenwood’s Graveyard Shiraz 2014; indeed, many of the reds from

F I N E Wine of the Century The judging format was very different to that with which most of us were familiar. The Australian Show system has done wonders for the standard of Australian wine over many decades. It works. Basically, for those not familiar, each show has one of more panels of judges, usually winemakers, critics or those involved with the industry. Each panel consists of three judges, often with a few associate judges who can judge and argue but in the end, their scores do not count. The panel will assess an array of wines. They will be blind (masked) but usually slot into a category – so you might be looking at a group of young Shiraz or Rutherglen fortifieds, or if you are unlucky, 150 current vintage sauv blancs. Marking is usually out of 20, but there is a move to scoring out of 100. After each separate tasting has finished, the panel sits down and tallies up their scores. If a wine scores, on average across the three judges, 15.5/20, it will be awarded a bronze medal; 17 and above garners a silver and 18.5 and higher brings home the gold. There is no limit to the number of medals which can be awarded to each bracket of wines. Trophies are assessed later when all of the panels combine and work through the top contenders. One key feature of the Australian system is the debate that occurs when panels sit down to tally – some call it horse-trading. If any judge gives a wine a gold medal score, unless all judges have done so (much rarer than you might think) when it will automatically receive its gold, the wine it will be brought back for further assessment – this can lead to most of the bracket being retasted in some instances. The judge giving gold will either concede it is not worth it or attempt to convince the other judges that they should elevate their scores (the idea of horse-trading came about as there is, in some circles, a feeling that one judge will agree to elevate his score to a gold for a wine if the other judge does the same for his preferred wine, but I am sure that never happens). Once it has all been resolved, the panel then fronts up to the next set of wines. In the old days, it was not unknown for judges to look at more than 200 wines a day, but recently, this number has been reduced, acknowledging the limits of the human palate. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 167

that truly stellar Hunter vintage; and so on. Some entries may have had a touch of the tongue-in-cheek about them. It is hard to believe that Steve Pannell really thought that his 2011 Tempranillo Touriga, nice wine that it is even considering it comes from what might be politely termed a lesser vintage, would be judged the greatest wine made in Australia this century. In the end, you can, of course, only judge what is in front of you. If there was one other difference between this and most Australian shows, it is fair to say that the overall quality of the wines in this show was at a level not seen before or since. If your aim is to be named the best wine made in Australia this millennium, then there is little point in submitting anything other than your very best. Had this been a ‘normal’ show, then you would think that almost every wine would win a gold medal and many would have. Of course, there were inevitably a few wines which did not show at their best on the day. The other danger is ensuring that subtle and 168 www.tastingbook.com elegant wines are not overshadowed by the powerhouses. If a fragrant Pinot is squeezed between bold Barossa Shiraz, there is every chance it could be lost. In other words, we faced similar dilemmas as are faced in almost every wine show. This competition gives us a great deal more than just one top wine. It provides a revealing across-the-board snapshot of what winemakers think are their top wines. If we start with vintages, 2010 was the preferred choice, backing up conventional wisdom that this really was a superb vintage (yes, of course, in a country the size of Australia, it is impossible to get anything like a standard vintage report). Twelve of the wines were from the 2010 vintage. Other highly regarded vintages were also well represented – 8 wines from 2002, six from 2006 and five from 2008. 2005 also had five wines. 2004, 2007 and 2009 all provided four wines, while 2003, 2011 and 2012 each had a single representative. 2000, 2001 and more recent years all failed to appear. Regions? This is marginally blurry, of course. A wine like Grange comes from a number of regions so we have left it aside. The others are listed as best we believe them to have been sourced (the same issue exists for varieties as, of course, we have the 15% rule – for those not aware, you can call a wine ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’, for example, provided there is less than 15% of other varieties in the wine with 85% or more, Cabernet – those other varieties are not required to be named). The Barossa Valley and the Eden Valley are included as a single entity and, not surprisingly, our most famous region dominated with 12 entries. McLaren Vale, with nine wines, was next – it simply confirms what an excellent district this is for top wine, despite so often being overlooked in discussions. The Hunter Valley with six wines, with four each from Margaret River and the Clare Valley, were next. After that, it was a bit of a jigsaw

F I N E Wine of the Century with one or two wines from numerous regions – Mornington Peninsula, the Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills, Gippsland, Macedon, Beechworth, Central Victoria and perhaps most surprisingly, in the sense that it was not better represented, Coonawarra. Finally, varieties. No prizes for guessing that Shiraz dominated. Seventeen of the wines were from this wonderful grape. Perhaps more surprisingly was that Cabernet Sauvignon was a clear second, with nine wines. And that traditional Aussie blend of those two grapes provided a further three wines. There were four from Pinot Noir and single examples of Grenache, Nebbiolo and that Tempranillo/Touriga blend (all those last three were from Steve Pannell, who definitely took the opportunity to push the envelope here). With whites, it was a much more even playing field – four each for Riesling and Chardonnay and three Semillon (also no prizes for picking all three were from the Hunter Valley). There were two Viogniers and a Marsanne. The top wine? Such a close call. The judges were similar but different. We all had two wines equal top – the 2004 Penfold’s Grange and the 2002 Henschke Mt Edelstone. Wonderful to see wines with such lofty reputations justifying the hype. Fascinating to see that the Mt Edelstone edged the Hill of Grace – granted different vintages. The 2004 Grange won the day, when all scores were compiled, by the proverbial whisker. It was a brilliant wine. Anyone who thinks Grange is overrated, overhyped or too expensive would be forced to reconsider if they had the opportunity to drink this cracker. That said, one suspects that the 2010 (not part of the judging this time) is an even better wine. It just makes the idea of the next installment of this competition even more thrilling. > WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 169

THE AUSTRALIAN WINE OF THE CENTURY – TOP 10 WINES A collection of great Australian wine, glittering futures ahead. In the initial tasting, Ten wines scored 96 points or better, so not a bad day at the office, with another half dozen or so, at 95 points and plenty sitting at 94 points and 93 points. Penfold’s ‘Grange’ 2004 – The ultimate winner, by a whisker from the Mt Edelstone. Still opaque with reds and purples. Tobacco, plums, spices and truffle notes. Complex, intense, dense, extremely long and backed by plenty of acidity. There is quality oak. A rich, lengthy conclusion. There is some development, as you would expect (though perhaps not as much as one would think for a wine over a decade old), and it is clear that there are many happy years ahead of this cracking wine. Brilliant. It would be very easy to look at the results and say it was orchestrated so that our most famous wine would take pride of place, however, all the wines were tasted blind and most judges did not even know which wineries had entered, let alone what wines they had submitted. Grange got the top gong purely on its merits. 98.4 points Henschke ‘Mt Edelstone’ 2002 – I will confess that my first note here was ‘do not spit this’. There was a touch of maturity on the edge but otherwise, bright, attractive reds. Then a glorious complex nose. Whacko! Thrilling fragrances – game, spices, warm earth, cigar box, truffles. Wonderfully aromatic. One of those wines that one would be more than happy just smelling but that would be to deny great pleasure. This is seamless and perfectly balanced. It maintains its intensity on a very long and silky finish. A stunner. This was a wine that would not be out of place, matching it with the world’s best. 98.0 points 170 www.tastingbook.com d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ Shiraz 2004 – There is some maturity evident in both colour and nose, with rich toasty notes also noticeable. A layered style. Seamless and concentrated. A nice mix of black fruits and red fruits. Reasonable length and the longer it was in the glass, the more impressive it looked. It would not have surprised to learn there was a dollop of Cabernet here, contributing to the structure, but not so. The only slight issue was the length. It was good, not great, and the intensity faded gently. But a seriously impressive wine. 97.0 points Jacob’s Creek ‘Johann’ Shiraz Cabernet 2005 – Dark centre, bright red edge. This is exuberant, opulent and ripe. Liquorice notes, spices, chocolate, coffee beans, black jelly beans, oodles of aniseed and black fruits. Some oak but it is very well melded. Really concentrated with fine tannins. Lingers beautifully. A lovely example of exuberance and elegance working in harmony. This is Jacob’s Creek’s flagship and proof that they too can make wines that soar above their standard value range. 96.8 points Henschke ‘Hill of Grace’ 2005 – Lovely magenta/red colours. The nose provides characters of cigar box, anise, red fruits, dry herbs and more. Beautifully fragrant. Really exciting. There is some development but also a future. Soft and voluptuous but refined; elegant yet intense. Lovely soft cashmere-like tannins. This was clearly a wine of real class and quality. I didn’t pick it as a Hill of Grace but it was not that big of a surprise when revealed. 96.6 points Wyndham Estate ‘Black Cluster’ Shiraz 2007 – This was a gorgeous wine. The colour was deep purples and plums and there was plum on the nose. Fresh ripe plums. Cherry notes and chocolate as well. Quite an opulent style, generous but well balanced. Very fine tannins. An underlying flick of acidity supports a wine that is supple, seamless and silky. Hard not to love. It may not be particularly subtle, but it is not trying to be. Had one not tasted this blind, I would not have thought we’d hit this high level of quality. That might sound a bit prejudicial but one tends to think of this producer as making very decent wines that represent value. This shows that they can perform at a much higher standard as well. 96.4 points

F I N E Wine of the Century Grosset ‘Polish Hill’ Riesling 2002 Mount Pleasant ‘Lovedale’ Semillon 2007 – A wine that was still delightfully fresh. Still tight and minerally. Beautifully balanced. Lemony notes, spices, citrus. A slate-y note. Very long. Immaculate and complex. This does exhibit a little age but is amazingly fresh and long. A great future is an easy prediction. No real surprise to see what this was when it was revealed. Our leading maker, his most famous vineyard and a truly great Clare Riesling vintage. Hard to beat. – No mistaking this as anything but an utterly beguiling Hunter Semillon. One with some age but still almost an infant. The complexity is building. Lovely notes of lanolin. Balanced and seamless. A wine that lingers. A fabulous Semillon with complexity, great length, a little maturity and a long future. 2007 was a terrific Hunter vintage, especially for whites, which sometimes seems to be overlooked by consumers – I have no idea why. Could it have been lost in the Kiwi sauvalanche? It is no coincidence that two of the three Hunter Semillons submitted were from the 2007 vintage. 96.2 points Bass Philip ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009 – The glass just screamed complexity. A lovely soft, elegant style with a wonderfully alluring nose. Red fruits dominate. It has a juicy freshness and good acidity. Notes of truffles. There is perhaps more on the nose than one finds on the palate but it hardly matters. Fine length. A wonderful example of Aussie Pinot. I have seen grown Burgundy makers literally hugging a bottle of Bass Philip to ensure no one pinched it. When one sees the quality of this wine, it is hardly surprising. Stunning, and how wonderful to see two Pinots in the Top Ten! 96.2 points 96.0 points William Downie ‘Mornington Peninsula’ Pinot Noir 2008 – A pale, light red colour – before going near this wine, it seemed obvious from the colour that this wine would be Pinot or much older than it could be, if from this century. Florals, spices, game. This is a beautifully complex Pinot Noir. Very fine, juicy tannins and good acidity. Excellent length. One of my favourite wines of the day. Confirmation of the sublime skills of pinotphile, Bill Downie. 96.0 points WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 171

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F I N E Ta s t i n g By Richard Juhlin D uring a couple of rainy days at the end of June, we were a small select group of international champagne journalists who was invited to Bollinger to take part in something quite unique. The first night I ended up alone in an old nostalgia awakening restaurant in Reims overlooking the park where my interest in champagne started with a bottle of Bollinger Special Cuvée 30 years ago. I sat there and dreamed myself away over a bottle of Echezeaux accompanied by foie gras and entrecote while the rain flooded the streets outside. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 173

T he next morning we were picked up and driven to Aÿ. I sat myself next to my former mentor and motivator, the ever-vital and elegant queen of champagne - Serena Sutcliffe. Between us we shared what life brought us during the last 10 years. We certainly agreed that this would be mightily exciting because she, in recent years and I never, had tasted any old wines at all from Bollinger in the house’s auspices. Over the last three years, the house has secretly pursued a gigantic inventory of every corner in the cellars. It was decided back in 2010, when they found a forgotten cellar with extremely old bottles, to renovate every single bottle in the form of disgorging and cork replacements, etc. The modern technology of laser aphrometer designed to measure the pressure in the bottles without opening them has been the key to success at work. In the forgotten cellar behind huge amounts of empty bottles they succeeded to find vintages down 174 www.tastingbook.com to the historical inception in 1830 from the foundation of the house in 1829. At the end of this fantastic project they had secured 4,000 bottles. Most bottles were disgorged a la Volée and tasted separately. Bollinger have now created two unique vinoteque galleries – 1829 and La Réserve. The new chef de caves Gilles Descôtes, who led the project, showed us around in the two very impressive cellars. The cellar La Réserve shows something even more unique. Because Bollinger is making its standard cuvée from the amazing collection of reserve wines, stored in magnums under light pressure, they have separate crus in a gigantic amount of vintages to follow. The entire 3000 magnum´s are located in the beautiful and by artist´s ornamented cellar aisle. It was with a slight weakness in the knees of anticipation we sat down at the table to get a taste of what the cellars had to offer. We would never had expected that we would get to taste the top wines Bollinger ever made. To get them served in the best condition made of course the experience even more magical. Here are my tasting notes from the historic tasting in Aÿ. >

2002 Bollinger Verzenay Réserve 90p 100 % PN Reserve wines stored in magnums with half the amount of carbonic. Brilliant, clean and typical of the village with a spiciness and blood orange notes reminiscent of R.Lalou from the same year for obvious terroir reasons. Deep, soft, long and intensely expressive already in the young phase the wine is in now. 1999 Bollinger Verzenay Réserve 100% PN 91p Large, smoky and roasted bouquet with an acidity that made me believe it was the 1996 in the blind tasting. Strong minerality and depth in the aromas with a dry reverberation. 1992 Bollinger Verzenay Réserve 100% PN 90p Developed style with hints of pepper, motor oil and white Burgundy. Strong body structure with mandarin and cream in the finish. 1985 Bollinger Verzenay Réserve 100% PN 93p Depth and majestically aged. Again with notes of engine oil, pepper and mandarin. Rich oily texture and a sleek maturity disguise. 1969 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises Collection 99p 100% PN I just needed to dip my nose for a second before I realized what wine it was. Here you are met by a blast of smells with an equally unmistakable as indescribable crystal clear identity. The volume is huge, but the wine is extremely fresh and acidic thanks to vintage. The aromatic spectrum is ranging from jasmine, passion fruit, sea buckthorn, licorice toffee, black olives, tar and charcoal grilled meat. A perfect bottle from the debut year. 1952 Bollinger RD Collection 75% PN, 25% CH 97p Disgorged for Madame Bollinger´s private cellar in 1969 with 11 grams of sugar. A great depth and at the same time vitality charming with a creamy silkiness. Notes of freshly baked bread, dried fruits and caramel confide the chord. 1945 Bollinger Collection 75% PN 25% CH F I N E Ta s t i n g Tasting notes: 97p Disgorged for Madame Bollinger´s private cellar in 1969. Not as dark and truffle-scented as bottles I previously encountered on the open market. There is a depth and a classic tight construction with a dry basis. Minerals, smoke and spicy funds dominate the overall impression. 1937 Bollinger Collection 75% PN, 25% CH 99p Disgorged for Madame Bollinger´s private cellar in 1969. Fantastic and impressive with juicy nectar notes, oily texture and a quite vibrant color and mousse. Young style with deep concentration and voluptuous overtones. A wonderful beauty filled with the most you can associate to in a champagne. 1924 Bollinger Collection 80% PN, 20% CH 96p Disgorged for Madame Bollinger´s private cellar in 1969. I had never before beheld a 1924, so it was no wonder I guessed on a 1929 when we got to try the delightful treasures directly at the house in Ay. Something lighter than the greatest vintages of Bollinger but still mightily impressive. Hazelnut notes, popcorn, mango, passion fruit and butterscotch take turns on leading the aroma spectrum into a long fresh aftertaste. 1914 Bollinger Collection 75% PN, 25% CH 99p Disgorged for Madame Bollinger´s private cellar in 1969 and now in perfect condition at Bollinger. Made from across 23 crus with Bouzy as WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 175

a main component of 18%. A startling bouquet. Golden light color and a long majestic taste that lasted for hours. Most impressive is the incredibly intense scent which in its complex creation contains diverse and at the same time nicely orchestrated ingredients such as; cardamom, lavender, lilac, vanilla, orange blossom, bergamot, Chinese tea and mandarin. Well thickened fat and at the same time a youthful champion. Probably the house’s most outstanding vintage. 1830 Bollinger Collection 80% PN, 20% CH 88p 1975 Bollinger RD 97p My first great love in Champagne. This is where I realized how great Pinot Noir could taste in a champagne. Hazelnut notes, the mushrooms and the deep dark cocoa note, I will forever remember. 1988 Bollinger RD Jeroboam 1996 Bollinger RD (Magnum) Disgorged 2016 without carbonic pressure and without any dosage. The first vintage Bollinger ever made and obviously a historical great experience to taste one of the 13 bottles that survived in good condition. However, I must point out that, considered objectively, that this wine appeared as the worst bottle the house picked up from the collection in June, 2016. Youthful color even though the bubbles were missing. Oxidative on the nose with great similarities with wine jaune or the finest sherry. Almonds, fallen fruit, figs, dates, and a fiercely refreshing acidity. Clean, very long and holds nicely in the glass. Lovely wine in its almost 200-year-developed style. I have always been very fond of Bollinger 1973 a in any form. The Grande Année bottles are a little lax now and it is the same with the first RD renditions. On Magnum they are deep and nutty, but on Jeroboam ridiculously youthful with floral notes, metal, acacia and freshly laundered sheets. Maybe not in the most impressive phase, but still my favorite size right now. 1966 Bollinger (Magnum) 98p It was a long time ago since I tasted this revelation, but I assume that it must be in a fantastic shape still. 176 www.tastingbook.com 96p It took many years before I completely embraced the grandeur of this magnificent vintage. Today only a couple of years is missing on a Magnum for full bloom in a rich flowing style. 1970 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 99p The most grand and monumental of all vintages of this wine. Almost viscous and colossally dark both in wine as in the aromatic. Surreal concentrated. 1979 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes 1973 Bollinger RD (Jeroboam) 97p Unpleasant that you have to drink it on Jeroboam to get the full impact. It has a fragrant acacia elegance and a marked mineral, almost metallic purity in the acid-based backbone. In between, there flows volatile ethereal perfumes and lifts the wine to sensual highlights. 99p Completely different style than the 1970 with fresh floral and nutty classic appropriations complemented by peach driven fruit. The most elegant edition of this wine along with the debut vintage of 69. 1996 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 97p A little less impressive lately, but trust me, it will come back within 5-6 years! There you go. There we have the essence of almost two hundred years of wine history of absolute world class.

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH. Nestled between the Continental wines with EU-protected designation of warmth and cool Northern currents, origin. You can always spot them by Austrian wines flourish in the heart of the red-white-red capsule tops, and the Europe. These ideal climatic conditions official quality wine check number on foster the growth of noble and elegant the label. austrianwine.com

The Auction report of 2000–2010 178 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Inve sting of Destiny Text: Stuart George As the “noughties” came to an end, the global economy remained in a fragile state. The credit crunch that began in 2008 and spread like wildfire in 2009 forced Greece and Ireland to seek financial aid from the EU and the International Monetary Fund. By January 2011, Portugal was on the brink. The world as a whole is richer than it was in 2000. But stock market investors have spent ten years getting nowhere. The Dow had its worst decade since the 1930s, while the dotcom crash, 9/11 and the financial meltdown all sent shares plummeting. By December 2010, it was up by only 2.2 per cent on its January 2000 level. Apple shares, which are one of the success stories of the decade, were worth less than $30 in 2000; now they are close to $350. In January 2000, a case of Lafite 1982 was worth, according to figures from the London-based fine wine exchange Liv-ex, $3895. By December 2010 it was worth $60 151, an increase of 1544 per cent. In October 2010 the price spiked to $107 248. It has been an unprecedented decade for fine wine, ten years in which where, how and for how much wine is sold has changed forever. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 179

C The China syndrome N A new order There has been a fundamental change in the market worldwide over the last ten years, with growing numbers of people beginning to take an interest in wine, continuing dynamic economies and new emerging markets in Brazil, Russia, India and China – the so-called BRIC nations. In 2000, not a single Bentley was sold in Russia. In 2009, 103 were sold. At the start of the decade there were two million mobile handsets in India. By 2010, there were 545 million. As these figures show, the world has become both richer and taller. In 2000, the world’s tallest building was the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lampur at 452 metres. By 2010, it was the 828-metre Burj Khalifa in Dubai. The fine wine trade is dependent on the rich and, even after the credit crunch, there are plenty of those around. These days, a fine wine trader’s only concerns are likely to be Parker points, theft of his stock and end of year bonuses in the financial sector. Fine wine is booming so much that Tonnellerie Quintessence, one of the leading suppliers of barrels to fine wine producers, has made the Fleur de Quintessence “Premium Barrel”. (It has not yet been proven that it makes the wine taste any better.) 180 www.tastingbook.com In a remarkably short time, China’s economy has blossomed into the second largest in the world. Only five years ago, China’s GDP was half that of second-placed Japan, which the Chinese eclipsed in 2010. Next stop: the mammoth U.S. economy – a milestone that is a decade or two away and yet all but certain. Things have changed since China was cloistered away behind a bamboo curtain and its major diplomatic ally was Albania. The new Chinese embassy that was opened in 2008 is the largest in Washington. Just as all but one national economy has been overtaken by China, the “traditional” fine wine markets in London and New York might feel as though it is the end of their world. They have had to hand over the keys to the cellars of the Quai des Chartrons in Bordeaux to the Asians. In April 2003, the SARS outbreak made Hong Kong a no-go area for everybody, including wine merchants, who mostly serviced Asian clients from offices in London or New York. Now half the fine wine world is there, including all the major UK and US auctioneers and retailers. G Growing pains The prices of top Bordeaux 2000s redefined the en primeur campaign. By 2010 and the aftermath of the 2009 releases, it was no longer a matter of securing the wines at the least expensive price – it was a matter of securing allocations that could be sold on for even higher amounts. Although there was indignation at the release prices of the 2000s, 2003s, 2005s and 2009s, one cannot blame the Bordelais for selling their wines as extravagantly as possible. They make the wine, after all, and if anybody should profit from them it is the producers themselves. The three expensive Bordeaux en primeur campaigns in the first half of the decade created a conundrum: release prices would have to decline or secondary market prices would have to increase. Finally, in 2007, the secondary market exploded like the Tsar Bomba. Suddenly there were more lavish, hardback catalogues than ever before – perhaps increased buyer’s premiums are partly due to the enormous printing bills incurred by the auction houses. Location became the great mantra of wine auctioneers. Location, location, location became the great mantra of wine auctioneers. More attention than ever was being paid by auctioneers, merchants and buyers to criteria that might affect the value of a wine: its provenance, condition, previous sales and drinking form. Prickly consumers forced standards to go higher and authenticity became the priority. “Traditional” collectors, including the wine trade, wine press and enthusiastic amateurs, were overwhelmed by the new money in Asia. Chinese started looking for wines with which to fill their expensively built cellars. Auctions appeal to them because they can acquire a lot of wine in a very short time – over a few hours an entire cellar can be established. Anyone with cash to spend can wave their paddle and buy at an auction. Several hundred free-spending individuals entered the fine wine market and changed it radically.

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G Go east, young man Virginia Woolf wrote in her 1924 essay “Mr Bennett and Mrs Brown”, “On or about December 1910, human character changed.” The fine wine market’s character changed in February 2008, when Hong Kong banished tax on wine. This was even more significant than the reintroduction of wine auctions to New York in 1994. It completely changed the dynamics of the international fine wine trade. Indeed, it has probably been the most momentous (and lucrative) addition ever to occur to the fine wine industry. Hitherto, the most sought-after lots went to New York. During the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, there was a steady flow of wine from Europe to the USA, which became the foundation of the large collections established by Lloyd Flatt, Marvin Overton III and others. But now all that wine started to travel eastwards. To paraphrase the British art dealer Joseph Duveen, America has a great deal of wine, and Asia has a great deal of money. With the addition of an insatiable Hong Kong to the already thriving London and New York, the market was flying. But on 15 September 2008, Lehman Brothers collapsed like Thomas de Quincey’s dissolving palace of snow. With their long lead times, auctioneers were powerless to prevent prices and clearance rates from becoming like Lady Throbbing and Mrs Blackwater’s “portrait by Millais” in Evelyn Waugh’s Vile Bodies, which “made a record in rock-bottom prices.” 182 www.tastingbook.com But sometimes the darkest hour is just before dawn. Thanks to the economic strength of China, which was largely untouched by the credit crunch, the market recovered quickly and it took less than three years for the market’s de facto capital to relocate. 2010 was the first year that auctions in Hong Kong were more valuable than those in the whole of the USA. It is easy to understand the attraction of Hong Kong to wine merchants and auctioneers, as selling wine there is largely painless. There is no import tax, so paperwork is greatly reduced. To hold an auction all you have to do is rent a room and find some wine to sell – but that has become increasingly difficult, with several new auction houses entering the fine wine crucible recently. T The end of the beginning There is no future without a past, so we can perhaps make some fairly random predictions for 2011 and beyond, based on what happened during the previous decade. With old treasures so increasingly rare, auctioneers and merchants need younger wines to ensure liquidity and cash flow. The still unbottled Lafite 2009 made HK$300 000 (US$39 000) at an October 2010 auction in Hong Kong. It is possible that the Bordeaux en primeur campaign could be conducted via auctions in the

Fine wine – like art and property – is, in the long-term, a one-way bet. L Lust, caution The current Asian wine market is like a queen bee fed on royal jelly. But caution is advised. The fine wine market more and more resembles the tulip mania that gripped the Netherlands in the seventeenth century, when the price of tulips reached a level over ten times the annual income of a skilled craftsman but then suddenly collapsed. In 1637, some tulip bulb varieties briefly became the most expensive objects in the world. Logistics in China – the movement and storage of bottles of wine – and the ongoing battle against fake wine will continue to be challenging. Producers will have to resort to sleight of hand to defeat the counterfeiters. Latour, for example, now puts microchips in its labels. The old saying “when America sneezes, the world catches a cold” now seems to apply to China more than the USA – after all, Shanghai’s February air is notoriously fluridden. If the Asian market slipped, the fine wine industry would be in trouble. There has already been a Chinese stock bubble, which burst in February 2007 and caused havoc on global stock markets. There will be a shakeout in Hong Kong at some point. It is close to saturation point and only the most professional and bestplanned wine businesses will survive. China might be the dazzling future of the First Growths but it is not going to be the salvation of the Côtes de Bourg. There is a risk that the market will become like a pan of boiling water and run dry. Asia is interested only in probably a couple of hundred privileged labels that by their very nature are in short supply. Nowadays auction houses need to be as tenacious as the anonymous narrator of Henry James’s The Aspern Papers. Hong Kong is gobbling up wines that might previously have gone to London or New York. Perhaps we might see large private collections of wine from Chinese cellars being sold by 2020. As in any decade, some people became richer and others became poorer. There were visionaries and there were rogues. So was 2010 the end of history as far as fine wine is concerned? No – it was the start. > FINE Inve sting future. The châteaux and negociants could set the reserves and estimates to their satisfaction – that is, as high as they like – and watch a bidding war break out. The short-selling of Lafite 2009 on Liv-ex in June 2010 caused “outrage”. People had better get used to this sort of thing. Wine has become a commodity, albeit nonfungible, and it will be traded as such. The Internet will continue to make “darkness visible”. There might be increasing use of the Internet as a relatively cost-effective way to sell wine that also makes prices more transparent – why pay more in London than New York, or Hong Kong, for that matter? The traditional auction house business plan, with offices scattered across the globe, is looking increasingly anachronistic, its format like a fly trapped in amber. Lafite will continue to be the most sought-after fine wine, though the other Firsts all have stories to tell and will increase their presence in Asia. Lafite begins the new decade working with ASC Fine Wines in China, a company that is positioned to be hugely influential over the next ten years and beyond. What might have seemed like a bubble in Hong Kong has turned out to be an interstellar balloon. China and others will continue to drive growth and demand. There are more wine collectors with deep pockets than ever before, all of them clamouring for the finest bottles. Fine wine – like art and property – is, in the long-term, a one-way bet. In his Wine and Spirit Education Trust lecture in October 2007, Christian Seely of AXA Millésimes said: “In almost every habitable place on the globe there are a growing number of people wanting to consume wine that can only be made in one place. This is a good longterm position if you are the producer and you own the place in question.” WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 183

The fine Wine 200 Index World’s only independent fine wine index Measures the price development of the world’s finest and most drinkable wines from 1865–2009 vintages. The Fine Wine 200 Index represents the price movement of 200 of the most desirable fine and rare wines, which are highly drinkable today and for which there is a solid secondary market. The index is calculated quarterly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux (51,5%) wines from 1865–2003 vintages, but also wines from Burgundy (19%) 1923–1999, Rhone (7%) 1961–1999, Champagne (6,5%) 1961–1996, California (5.5%) 1974–2001, Italy (3%) 1971–2001, Portugal (2.5%) 1945– 1997, Australia (2,5%) 1971–1996 and Spain (2.5%) 1953–1999 are also well included. The FINE Wine 200 Index is calculated using the average price of the fine wines sold in over 20 most important wine auction houses of the world (listed below) and then weighted to account for original production levels and growing scarcity as the wine ages. 184 www.tastingbook.com

€800 000 €749 164 €700 000 FINE Inve sting Fine Wine 200 Index €630 200 €600 000 €505 932 €451 810 €450 000 €424 586 €302 787 €300 000 €204 148 €150 000 2002 2005 2008 2009 2010 2011 2013 2014 2016 The price information given in this index tells the reader the average price of the wine paid at the biggest auctions, worldwide. It is based on information, collected by FINE Publishing Ltd, of the wines’ selling prices in the auctions during 1996 and 2016. The price differences can be considerable between one auction and another, so the calculated average price given here is simply illustrative and should be taken only as suggestive, not as ultimate truth. A price given with a wine tells the average auction price of a singular estate-bottled wine, in good condition. The price of a wine in outstanding condition and with a good storage history is usually higher and, correspondingly, the price of a wine in poorer condition and with unknown storage history lower than the given average price. The price we have given does not include auction costs, varying between 8% – 25% of the price depending on the auction. For the consumer the auction prices usually tell the lowest price paid for the wine. When buying wine from a wine store the prices are generally 30% to 200% higher than the prices at auction we have listed in this index. However there are some wine stores, specially in Europe, which often purchase wine straight from private individuals and can this way sometimes even price their wines below auction prices. Sales in currencies other than euros are converted to euros as of the date of the sale. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 185

Fine Wine 200 Index Bordeaux Index Burgundy Index €349 210 €350 000 €350 000 €307 314 €300 000 €300 000 €233 273 €225 000 €252 086 €192 658 €214 186 €187 330 €185 121 €150 000 €243 039 €205 975 €225 000 €150 000 €157 658 €108 507 €101 609 €75 000 2002 €75 000 2005 2008 2009 2010 2014 2016 2002 Champagne Index 2005 2008 2009 2010 2014 €50 000 €17 234 €12 000 €11 076 €10 915 €11 525 €9646 €9 000 €45 311 €40 000 €30 000 €27 741 €6 000 €27 650 €29 673 €30 280 €19 474 €20 000 €5474 €16 256 €10 000 €2798 2002 2005 2008 2009 2010 2014 2016 2002 2005 2008 2009 2010 2014 Auction results coverage 1996–2016 includes: Edward Roberts International, Chicago, US / Artus Associés Paris, FR / Christie’s-South Kensington London, GB / Wermuth S.A. Zürich, CH / Christie’s NY Wines New York, US, Hong Kong / Sotheby’s London, GB / Acker Merrall & Condit New-York, US / Hong Kong / Chassaing-Rivet-Fournié Toulouse, FR / Tajan Paris, FR / Koppe & Partner Düsseldorf, DE / Sotheby’s New York, US / Christie’s Amsterdam, NL / Lawsons Sydney, AU / LombrailTeucquam Paris, FR / Steinfels Weinauktionen Zürich, CH / Zachys-Christie’s Rockefeller New York, US / Sotheby’s Chicago,US / Christie’s Los Angeles, US / Langton’s Sydney, AU / Sterling Auctioneers Subiaco-Perth, AU/ Morrell & Company New York, US / Butterfield & Butterfield San Francisco & Los Angeles,US / Winebid.com, US / uVine. com UK/ Besch Cannes Auction, Fr. 186 www.tastingbook.com 2016 Rest of the world Index €20 000 €3 000 €75 027 2016

FINE Inve sting WINE Levels vs. Prices The level of the wine is the indicator, which tells most about a singular wine’s condition and its storage history. When a wine ages the evaporating through the cork causes the level in the bottle to drop. The lower the level, the greater the risk the wine is oxidized and spoilt. The level also has a significant influence on the price paid for the wine. In this magazine the levels mentioned are based on the table presented here: Ullage: the space between the cork and the wine. Since bottles used in Burgundy do not have “shoulders”, it is not practical to use the same terms to describe the level of the wine as with the wines of Bordeaux. The level in these burgundy bottles is indicated with centimeters in relation to the cork. The condition of the wine is less affected by the level in the slim bottles of Burgundy than in the shouldered bottles of Bordeaux. For example in a 40-year-old burgundy red wine 5-6 cm can still be considered a good level, and not even a 8 cm drop in the level is necessarily a sign of a wine gone bad, though it has a great influence on the price. The bottle used in Burgundy is also often used in Rhône, in the Loire valley and in Southern France. 1. By the neck / 0–1 cm ullage The normal level of young wines, and often that of older wines recorked at the estate - particularly good for wines older than 15 years. Influence on the price of the wine: full price. 2. Bottom neck / 1–2 cm ullage A good level for wines of all ages - particularly good for wines older than 20 years. Influence on the price of the wine: full price. 3. Top-shoulder / 2–3 cm ullage Normal level for wines from 15 to 25 years old. Influence on the price of the wine: 10-15 per cent. 4. Upper-shoulder / 3–4 cm ullage An acceptable level for wines older than 25 years - particularly good for wines more than 50 years old. Influence on the price of the wine: 20-25 per cent. 5. Mid-shoulder / 4–6 cm ullage A sign of a weakening cork or a warning of the possible deterioration of the wine. If the clarity and colour of the wine and the position of the cork are in good shape, the wine is probably in order - especially if it is more than 60 years old. This is quite a normal level for wines from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Influence on the price of the wine: 30-50 per cent. 6. Mid-low-shoulder / 6–8 cm ullage Already quite a risk, especially for wines not bottled on the estate. This level is not acceptable for wines less than 50 years of age. Influence on the price of the wine: 50-70 per cent. 7. Low-shoulder / 8–12 cm ullage Usually a clear sign of an already spoiled wine, especially if the wine is less than 80 years old. A wine like this is usually on the market if the wine in question, or indeed its label, is particularly rare. Influence on the price of the wine: 70-80 per cent. Wines from the late 18th and early 19th centuries constitue an exception to this rule. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 187

Fine Wine 200 Index 188 1 5 2 6 3 7 4 8 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 190 17 21 18 22 19 23 20 24 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 192 33 37 34 38 35 39 36 40 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 194 49 53 50 54 51 55 52 56 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 196 65 69 66 70 67 71 68 72 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 198 81 85 82 86 83 87 84 88 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 206 145 149 146 150 147 151 148 152 www.tastingbook.com

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Fine Wine 200 Index 161 162 FINE 200-Index Wall 208 163 165 164 166 www.tastingbook.com

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194 195 196 197 198 199 200 FINE Inve sting Fine Wine 200 Index Disclaimer: The information presented here has been gathered with care from sources deemed reliable and has been carefully transcribed. The Fine Wine Index is provided for informational purposes only and does not mount to financial advice or advice as to the value or likely future values of any of the wines it discusses. The opinions expressed are subject to change without notice. Neither FINE nor any of the authors or editors of this magazine accept any liability for the accuracy of its contents. Please acknowledge also that all data and content together with any rights therein, without limitation copyright and database right, are and shall remain the property of Fine Publishing Ltd, and you further acknowledge that such information is provided for your personal use only. Any other use of the information of this magazine, including any commercial use thereof, requires a licence or such other written permission from Fine Publishing Ltd. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 213

OCEAN REEF CLUB Founded on the ideal of gentility and the promise of a unique way of life, Ocean Reef Club has evolved into a small but sophisticated town steeped in tradition, value and a sense of belonging. Emblematic of club-style living, Ocean Reef Club proudly features amenities and services that surpass all imaginable expectations, including a 175-slip marina, two championship golf courses, spa, salon and fitness center, art league, cultural center, pools, lagoon, fully staffed medical center, 4,400’ airstrip, airport with jet fuel on-site, world-class tennis center and Pre-K3 through 8th grade Academy. It is all right here, at Ocean Reef Club, with its superb amenities and uncompromising security. many possibilities ONE CLUB

Plaza Building Offered at $46,625,000, the Plaza Building complex is a three story retail/ office center located in the heart of Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo, Florida. The complex includes 28,979 SF within three buildings, and a courtyard that allows for a fourth building to be constructed in the future. Mary Lee, Sales Agent MaryLee@OceanReef.com +1.305.367.2200 Call me today for a market analysis or to tour your next home North Key Largo, Florida OceanReefClubRealEstate.com William H. Dickinson, Managing Broker Lic. Real Estate Broker, Ocean Reef Club Real Estate Company® is An Equal Opportunity Company, Equal Housing Opportunity. This material is based upon information that we consider reliable, but because it has been supplied by third parties, we cannot represent that it is accurate or complete, and it should not be relied upon as such. This offering is subject to errors, omissions, changes, including price, or withdrawal without notice. Offer not valid in some states.

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FINE Lifestyle FERRARI A fine investment Text: Pekka Nuikki Photographs: Ferrari and Nuikki Y ou have probably heard people say that the value of a new car decreases the minute you drive it off the lot. Many of us know from experience that this is the case. But we only have ourselves to blame: we should have made a better choice. There are cars whose value immediately begins to increase – cars that make a profit for their owner even after decades of use. Out of all cars, a Ferrari is by far the best investment, not to mention a pleasure to drive. According to the Financial Times, the prices of vintage cars have risen at an unprecedented rate since 2000. Their prices have increased by nearly 400 per cent, clearly more than those of gold, art and wines. Over the past three years, Hagerty’s Blue Chip collector car index has increased by more than 50 per cent, and the Rosso Corsa index of Ferraris has doubled. Ferrari has led the way in the collector car market since the turn of the millennium. For example, in the 2013–2014 auction season, more than half of the cars that went for USD 1 million or more were Ferraris with Astons, Porsches and Maseratis trailing far behind. Investors typically choose older models of specials cars, mainly from the 1950s and 1960s. Ferrari is an exception: it has succeeded in making cars whose prices have not started to decrease immediately after leaving the forecourt – on the contrary, their prices have begun to increase and have continued to do so. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 217

1963 Ferrari 250 GT california SWB 1963 Ferrari 250 GT SWB 2dr Spyder (closed headlight) 12-cyl. 2953cc/280hp 3 Weber Carbs 2dr Coupe 12-cyl. 2953.72cc/280hp 3 Weber Carbs Value change over time Value change over time $2,400,000 $2,400,000 $1,800,000 $1,800,000 Values $3,000,000 Values $3,000,000 $600,000 $600,000 $0 $0 Condition 2 Condition 3 Lähde: Hagertin Rosso Corsa -indeksi 218 www.tastingbook.com Condition 4 ec A D ec A D Condition 1 20 pr 06 A 200 ug 7 2 D 00 ec 7 2 A 00 pr 7 A 200 ug 8 20 D ec 08 2 A 00 pr 8 A 200 ug 9 20 Ja 0 n 9 2 A 01 pr 0 A 2 01 ug 0 2 D 01 ec 0 2 M 01 0 ay 2 S e 01 p 1 2 D 01 ec 1 A 20 pr 11 A 2 01 ug 2 2 D 01 ec 2 2 A 01 pr 2 A 2 01 ug 3 20 13 $1,200,000 20 pr 06 A 200 ug 7 2 D 00 ec 7 2 A 00 pr 7 A 200 ug 8 20 D ec 08 2 A 00 pr 8 A 200 ug 9 20 Ja 0 n 9 2 A 01 pr 0 A 2 01 ug 0 2 D 01 ec 0 2 M 01 0 ay 2 S e 01 p 1 2 D 01 ec 1 A 20 pr 11 A 2 01 ug 2 2 D 01 ec 2 2 A 01 pr 2 A 2 01 ug 3 20 13 $1,200,000 Condition 1 Condition 2 Condition 3 Condition 4

The GTO was the pinnacle of the Ferrari 250 GT series, 1961 was a good year for wines. The harvest was small, but even though it was intended as a road car. The early stages the quality of the grapes was exceptionally high, and the of the planning process were kept top secret. Led by Giotgrapes were used to produce some of the best wines ever. to Bizzarrini, the purpose of the secret project was to creaToday, these wines are some of the best investments. The te a car that would challenge and defeat the Jaguar E-Type. year was good for cars as well. Two legendary cars were Bizzarrini understood the importance of aerodynamics at introduced: the Jaguar E-Type and the Ferrari 250 GTO, high speeds and in extreme conditions. The technical dewhich today is the most expensive car in the world. When tails of the GTO were fine-tuned at the University of Pisa’s writing their cheques for USD 9,800 to Ferrari in the auwind tunnel and on the race tracks of Monza. tumn of 1961, the buyers did not know that their cars The 250 GTO (Gran Tourismo Omologato) was first would become the most coveted automobiles on the plaintroduced to the public at Monza in September 1961, net. In September 2013, a Ferrari 250 GTO was sold for shortly before the Italian Grand Prix, and was nicknamed USD 52 million. This price was nearly 50 per cent higher “Il Mostro” (Monster). This was because the car was still in than the previous record, which was also held by a Ferrathe prototype stage, and its design was more or less coarse. ri 250 GTO. FINE Lifestyle 250 GTO – The birth of a legend 1963 Ferrari 250 GT Lusso 1968 Ferrari 275 GTB/4 2dr Coupe 12-cyl. 2953.21cc/240hp 3 Weber Carbs 2dr Coupe 12-cyl. 3285.72cc/300hp 6 Weber Carbs Value change over time Value change over time $3,000,000 $2,400,000 $2,400,000 $1,800,000 $1,800,000 Values Values $3,000,000 $600,000 $600,000 $0 $0 Condition 2 Condition 3 Condition 4 ec A D ec A D Condition 1 20 pr 06 A 200 ug 7 2 D 00 ec 7 20 A pr 07 A 200 ug 8 2 D 00 ec 8 20 A pr 08 2 0 A ug 09 2 Ja 00 n 9 2 A 01 pr 0 A 2 01 ug 0 2 D 01 ec 0 2 M 01 0 ay 2 S e 01 p 1 2 D 01 ec 1 A 20 pr 11 A 2 01 ug 2 2 D 01 ec 2 2 A 01 pr 2 A 2 01 ug 3 20 13 $1,200,000 20 pr 06 A 200 ug 7 2 D 00 ec 7 20 A pr 07 A 200 ug 8 2 D 00 ec 8 20 A pr 08 2 0 A ug 09 2 Ja 00 n 9 2 A 01 pr 0 A 2 01 ug 0 2 D 01 ec 0 2 M 01 0 ay 2 S e 01 p 1 2 D 01 ec 1 A 20 pr 11 A 2 01 ug 2 2 D 01 ec 2 2 A 01 pr 2 A 2 01 ug 3 20 13 $1,200,000 Condition 1 Condition 2 Condition 3 Condition 4 The Ferrari 250 GTO won many international races, incluNevertheless, test-driven by Stirling Moss, the car achieved ding the Tour de France Automobile in 1963 and 1964; record-breaking lap times, much better than those recorthe GT class of the Targa Florio in 1962, 1963 and 1964; ded for the Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta passo corto. Later the GT category of Le Mans in 1962 and 1963; and the in the same year, Bizzarrini found himself replaced by SerNürburgring 1,000-kilometre race in 1963 and 1964. Afgio Scaglietti, who was assigned to finalise the frame of the ter that, Enzo Ferrari decided to focus on Formula One. GTO. He is the man behind its iconic design. The GTO was by far the most intense and most exciting Like many other Ferraris of that time, the GTO had a Ferrari 250 GT car. It was at home in the city, on the road 3-litre V12 engine, with the cylinder heads set at a 60 deand on the race track, and has achieved an iconic status gree angle to each other. The engine had two camshafts, among Ferrari enthusiasts. Its track record in racing – comone in each cylinder head. Designed by Gioacchino Cobined with the fact that only 30 cars were produced – has lombo, the engine was equipped with six Weber carburetalso made it the most appreciated Ferrari among collectors. tors and generated 300 horsepower. The top speed of the car was a dizzying 298 km/h. The car had a 5-speed synchronised gearbox designed by Porsche. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 219

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FINE Lifestyle F50 F50 – The super machine The F50, the Ferrari super machine of the 1990s, was the successor to the F40. It is also a super-profitable investment, much like its predecessor. The owner can drive the car without worry for 15 years and easily get double the original price if they decide to sell the car. The F40 and the F50 were special models, with the latter celebrating Ferrari’s first 50 years as a car manufacturer, albeit slightly ahead of schedule. The new model was introduced in Geneva in 1995. At the launch event, Luca di Montezemolo, Chairman of Ferrari, stated that the company was going to produce only 349 cars, one fewer than they were expecting to be able to sell. The technology was beyond cutting-edge: the car had an ultra-light composite chassis, and its body was mainly made of carbon fibre. Ferrari wanted to create a road car with the performance ability and qualities of a Formula One car. The company wanted nothing to come between the driver and the driving experience and feel of the road. The car was stripped off all electronic driver assist systems, such as anti-skid devices and anti-lock brakes. The engine was Ferrari at its best: the 60-valve 4.7-litre V12 engine was modelled on the Ferrari F1 engine that brought Alain Prost many victories in the early 1990s. It was installed lengthwise in the middle to generate 500 horsepower and a top speed of 325 km/h. The car accelerated from 0 to 100 km/h in 3.7 seconds. These were record figures for Ferrari at the time, but were nowhere near those of the McLaren F1 model, for example, which generated a top speed of 390 km/h. However, in my opinion, the F50 sounded much more powerful than the McLaren. The F50 produced intense sounds, mainly because the engine, differential and 6-speed stick-shift gearbox were located behind the driver’s seat, which had a thin structure made from carbon fibre. Its sound insulation was poor for a road car, which makes it one of the few cars that you do not want to test-drive without wearing a helmet to protect your ears from the noise. The engine has a dualistic soundscape: At low revolutions, it is misleadingly gentle. At higher revolutions, it sounds as if the roaring and thundering engine wants to take control of your brain and make you push the accelerator deeper and deeper in a state somewhere between lucidity and insanity. Designed by Pininfarina, the F50 did not have the raw beauty of the F40, and it had little in common with any other Ferrari models either, except for the satin black indents on the sides and the traditional tail lights. It was characterised by arched and rounded shapes, as well as intakes and outlets, and a rear spoiler even more radical than that of the F40. The design of its frame was intended to be aerodynamic rather than aesthetically pleasing. The F50 is destined to become sought-after by collectors. It marked the end of the mechanical era before the electronic revolution. It is also a Ferrari that causes a severe, lifelong addiction. When the owners of the F50s were asked about selling their cars, only 1 per cent said they were planning to do so over the next five years. Rarity and practically non-existent availability guarantee positive price development. Why buy a small investment apartment in the heart of London when you can get a bright red devil of a car for the same price – a car that will bring you a new zest for life, more visibility, new friends, new experiences and a better return on your investment? WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 221

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Named after the founder of Ferrari, the Ferrari Enzo was created to celebrate Ferrari’s first Formula One championship of the new millennium. Only 399 cars were produced and even though the car was not introduced until 2002, its value has already doubled and is predicted to rise almost fivefold by 2025. The Enzo was designed by Ken Okuyama, former head designer of Pininfarina. It was introduced at the Paris Motor Show in 2002. The company had invited its best customers to the event, especially those who had previously bought a F40 or F50. A total of 349 cars were sold at the event, before production had even begun. The price was EUR 482,419 (USD 659,330). After many requests, Ferrari later decided to manufacture 50 more cars, which increased their total number to 399. The purpose of use had never before affected the design of a Ferrari as much as it affected that of the Enzo. Thousands of hours of testing were carried out in a wind tunnel, on a track and on the road – all aiming at maximum performance ability. The result was perfect and without compromise: a car that deserves to be called a Ferrari. The design and purpose of the front part were inspired by F1 cars. However, the car did not have a F1-type spoiler at the back. Instead, the engineers went for more sophisticated aerodynamics and a strong ground effect. Pininfarina combined these with other functionalities to create an incredibly captivating design. The body was made from aluminium and carbon fibre, weighing just 202 kilos. Perhaps surprisingly, the engine was modelled on the magnificent Maserati V8, while also being based on Ferrari’s experience in F1 racing. The Enzo was equipped with a 6.0-litre V12 engine that generated 660 horsepower. The engine produced a unique combination of amazing power and immense torque, as well as a broad, very flexible range of use, even at low revolutions. The 6-speed semi-automatic gearbox was located behind the engine and was directly connected to the engine. The design focused on producing as short gear shift times as possible (150 milliseconds in the Super Shift mode) to create the perfect sport d ­ riving WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE Lifestyle Ferrari Enzo – In honour of four consecutive F1 constructors’ championships 223

­experience. This was achieved by designing a completely new, computer-guided electronic control unit that adjusted not only the transmission, but also the engine, suspension, anti-skid system and brakes. The brake system was specifically designed for the Enzo by Brembo, making the Enzo the first Ferrari road car with highly effective, lightweight ceramic brakes reinforced with carbon fibre. However, Scuderia had already been using Brembo in Ferrari F1 cars for years. The Enzo accelerated from 0 to 200 km/h in 9.6 seconds, and its top speed was more than 350 km/h. Its cockpit was surprisingly spacious, with relatively good rear visibility. The doors opened upwards, and the F1-style steering wheel had buttons for various functionalities, tachometer indicator lights and shift selectors. The Enzo even had fully automatic air conditioning and 224 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Lifestyle power steering, both of which are useful qualities to have when traffic is stalled and complicated in the city and the hot V12 engine is breathing behind your back. However, the car has very much the feel of racing car, including a few tricks that you need to learn to be able to start the car. First, you need to turn the key and put your foot on the brake. Then you need to put the car into neutral using the paddles behind the wheel and push the red button in the middle console to wake up the engine – which has a more subdued sound than you might expect. It sounds surprisingly soft and gentle. Before my test drive, the owner of the car reminded me to warm the tyres before I put the pedal to the metal. He also recommended that I avoid traffic jams. In normal driving, the Enzo behaves in a sophisticated manner, which may cause the driver to become a WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 225

little complacent. However, it is impossible not to worry about the width of the car in the narrow streets of the city. In true Ferrari style, the steering is highly responsive and accurate. The transmission is highly responsive as well: more so than that of any other car of the same era, but it is also loud. Even in second gear, the car reaches speeds that make the brake very useful on a motorway: other cars appear in the windscreen much more rapidly than an inexperienced Ferrari driver would expect. In fact, I was more impressed with the car’s ability to stop abruptly if needed than its insane acceleration. The Enzo is in a class of its own, even among supercars, and a great display of homage to Enzo Ferrari, the founder and soul of Ferrari. 226 www.tastingbook.com “Enzo Ferrari had the ability to always look forward, even under the most difficult circumstances. He made his dream come true with determination and great passion – qualities that are shared by the people now working for the company that carries his name. I am convinced that he would be proud of the people who represent Ferrari in the twenty-first century. Ferrari is a major resource for motor racing and the automotive industry. The company produces dream cars and continues to be at the top of motor racing, bringing joy to its millions of

FINE Lifestyle fans around the world,” says Luca di Montezemolo, Chairman of Ferrari. The most famous Enzo owners include Tommy Hilfiger, Nicholas Cage, Eric Clapton, Rod Stewart and Michael Schumacher. In addition, Ferrari gave an Enzo as a gift to Pope John Paul II to replace his previous one, which was destroyed in an accident. This was the 400th Enzo, the last one ever produced, and it was auctioned by the Catholic Church and the Pope to help tsunami victims. FXX – The Super Enzo Three years after the creation of the Enzo, the Bologna Motor Show witnessed the introduction of the FXX, a new car based on the Enzo and known as the Super Enzo. The FXX was intended for a small group of Ferrari’s most loyal and passionate customers, and a highly inventive ­cooperation WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 227

programme between the manufacturer and the customers was developed around the new car. The FXX, a pure racing car, is the technologically most advanced Ferrari ever to have been produced by the Maranello factory. The FXX has not been approved for road or race use and can only be driven on tracks. A total of 30 FXX cars were produced. The FXX is the culmination of Ferrari’s expertise in manufacturing limited series of special sports cars using all of its knowledge and skills in motor racing. The new car will serve as a framework for the development of future special models and their qualities. The FXX is exceptionally powerful, even for a Ferrari. Its performance ability is in a class of its own: its free-breathing 6.3-litre V12 aluminium engine generates more than 800 horsepower. Its transmission makes use of F1 technology, producing gear shift times of less than 100 milliseconds. Its aerodynamic design is even more innovative than that of the Enzo, with a 40 per cent higher downforce, even though the Enzo has a very impressive downforce to begin with. Ferrari’s F1 tyre partner, Bridgestone, developed special 19-inch slick tyres for the FXX, and Brembo developed highly effective CCM (Composite Ceramic Material) brake discs. Each buyer of an FXX will be given an advanced driving course by the best professional drivers to ensure that they will be able to control the whole package: the exceptional performance ability, the acceleration from 0 to 100 km/h in less than three seconds, the top speed of 345 km/h and everything else about this unique car. The courses are 228 www.tastingbook.com

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held at the Fiorano Circuit, which Ferrari uses to test-drive its F1 cars. After the seat and pedals have been adjusted to suit the new owner, they will take part in a traditional shakedown test, followed by a lesson about the methods of test-driving. A group of preselected Ferrarists were given the opportunity to buy an FXX at a price of around USD 1.8 million. The car was introduced in 2005, and its value has since increased by a million dollars. The 30th FXX was gifted to Michael Schumacher after he decided to end his F1 career for the first time in 2006. At the time of writing, his black FXX, with a mileage of 900 kilometres, is for sale at a Swiss dealership for USD 2.7 million. 230 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Lifestyle F12 F12 – Rise or fall in three seconds For a long time, I dreamt of buying a 599 GTB Fiorina, as it had everything that a classic Ferrari can offer its owner: a powerful 12-cylinder engine under a long, curved hood, in addition to rear-wheel drive and a delicate yet masculine body design. When I was eventually able to buy one, I was exhilarated – but only for a short while: I found myself disappointed with the car after the first few weeks. With the 599 GTB Fiorina, the tried-and-tested Ferrari recipe did not seem to be working. The car was simply too powerful, and Ferrari had needed to resort to extreme measures in terms of electronics, the chassis and the brakes in order to control its power. The car behaved like a capricious child, even at low speeds, and all the torque and power made the anti-skid warning light flash during the ride to the grocery store. When accelerating on a ramp to the motorway in third gear, I had to concentrate hard on ensuring that the rear tyres did not lose traction. The 599 may be suitable for the racing track but not for dayto-day use. It was the first car that I refused to lend to my daughter. I found it uncomfortable, unstable and dangerous: it was a beast, ­prowling amidst ordinary traffic and putting its driver at risk. For this reason, I did not even consider changing it to a new Ferrari when the company introduced the F12berlinetta, “the most powerful Ferrari ever intended for road use”. I chose a four-wheel drive Lamborghini Callardo instead. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 231

Ferrari F12berlinetta Motor: 65° V12 Maximum power: 740 hv 545 kW Top torque: 690 Nm Acceleration: 0–100 km/h 3,1 s Top speed: 340 km/h coupe Height: 4618 mm Width: 1942 mm Weight: 1525 kg F12 BERLINETTA F12berlinetta – Fighting the g-force The F12berlinetta is equipped with Ferrari’s next-generation, free-breathing, 6.3-litre 12-cylinder engine, which produces 740 horsepower. It is immensely powerful, but more successfully so than its predecessor, the 599 GTB Fiorina. In fact, excluding special series, the F12 is the most powerful car ever to have been introduced by Ferrari for road use, and it has the highest performance ability. It accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in 3.1 seconds and from 0 to 200 km/h in 8.5 seconds, and produces a top speed of 340 km/h. These are impressive, if not scary, figures for a rear-wheeldrive car with the engine in the front. Scaglietti, a master of processing aluminium, carbon fibre and other light car body materials, designed a completely new type of aluminium frame and a revolutionary body using 12 alloys, some of which were being used for the first time in the automotive industry. Scaglietti 232 www.tastingbook.com also employed new installation and joint techniques. As a result of all of this, the torsion of the body improved by 20 per cent, and the weight of the vehicle decreased to 1,525 kilos, which is 70 kilos less than the weight of the 599 GTB. In addition, the distribution of weight between the axles is ideal, with 54 per cent of the total weight resting on the rear. The impressive technologies in the F12berlinetta also include Ferrari’s third-generation carbon-ceramic brakes (CCM3) and the newest version of the SCM-E suspension control system. In current Ferrari style, the control systems for the gearbox, engine, brakes, suspension, anti-skid functionalities and aerodynamics have been integrated. All of these subsystems take one another into account to maximise the total performance of the car. The F12berlinetta is a super coupé with streamlined, aggressive shapes, as well as compact dimensions but an exceptionally spacious and comfortable interior. The Poltrona Frau leather interior accentuates the balance between advanced technology and sophisticated, handcrafted details. The new ventilation grilles in the centre of the narrow, elegant dashboard are made from carbon fibre and aluminium, and were clearly inspired by the world of aviation, as was the entire car, for it makes you feel as if you were flying. Much like other modern, front-engined Ferraris, such as the 550 Maranello and the 575 GTB, the 599 GTB has not retained its value very well. After a few years of use, a 599 GTB has lost a third of its value, and I do not think that the F12 will be much of an exception in this respect. However, the delivery times for new F12berlinettas are currently two to three years. This means that, for the time being, there are used F12s on the market, with a mileage of a few thousand kilometres that have sold for more than new ones.

FF – Ferrari Four The FF offers a new perspective on Ferrari’s traditional Grand Tourer theme. Not only is it the first four-wheel-drive Ferrari, but it also clearly differs from previous models in the sense that it effortlessly combines the extreme performance ability of a sports car with the versatility and high usability of a genuine GT. In addition, it comes with a highly innovative design. In fact, each aspect of the FF oozes innovation, including its engine, the first 6.6-litre V12 engine paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch F1 transmission. The V12 engine generates a massive 660 horsepower. This gives it the performance ability of a sports car: the FF accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in 3.7 seconds, with a top speed of 335 km/h. It intelligently distributes torque between all of the four tyres. This has been achieved by combining all of its dynamic driving control methods (E-Diff, F1-Trac and PTU) under a single CPU. The FF performs better than a considerable number of more powerful supercars, particularly on rainy days and in slippery conditions. Its chassis design ensures an ideal distribution of weight, which is typical of Ferraris. The engine is located in the middle in the front, and the gearbox is located above the rear axle, with 53 per cent of the total weight resting on the rear part of the car. Its third-generation carbonceramic Brembo brakes are lighter and more durable, with practically non-existent wear in normal driving. FINE Lifestyle FF FERRARI FOUR Its elegant interior ensures a comfortable ride for the driver and up to three passengers. It is the first car in the history of Ferrari with an entertainment and information system for the back-seat passengers, with two screens that enable them to watch TV and DVDs. In addition, the car has a 1,280-watt, 16-channel stereo system with Quantumlogic Surround Sound. Its 450-litre boot is also new for Ferrari and can be expanded to 800 litres by folding down the back seats. The FF car is a genuine family car suitable for the conditions in Finland – with a world-class price. Ferrari FF Motor: V12 65° Maximum power: 660 hv 486 kW Top torque: 683 Nm Acceleration: 0–100 km/h 3,7 s Top speed: 335 km/h coupe Height: 4907 mm Width: 1953 mm Weight: 1790 kg WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 233

LA FERRARI LaFerrari – Ooh la la Maranello, 5 March 2013 – The new LaFerrari was finally unveiled. The much-awaited special car by the Prancing Horse team debuted at the Geneva International Motor Show. Only 499 cars will be produced. “We decided to name this model LaFerrari, as it embodies superiority, our core principle,” said Luca di Montezemolo, Chairman of Ferrari. “The new car is superior in terms of technological innovation, performance, visionary design and the sheer excitement of driving. This special car is intended for collectors, and it features highly advanced solutions that will be applied to other models in the future. It is a benchmark for the entire automotive industry. The LaFerrari is the finest expression of our unique, u ­ nparalleled 234 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Lifestyle engineering and design expertise, and also draws on our F1 experience.” Limited series of special cars offer Ferrari an opportunity to try new technological solutions, some of which will later be used in mass-market cars. The introduction of Ferrari’s hybrid system plays a significant role in this respect. Making full use of Scuderia’s knowledge of the F1 Kinetic Energy Recovery System (KERS), Ferrari has developed a solution that highlights the company’s core values: performance and the excitement of driving. The LaFerrari posed a major challenge to the Prancing Horse team in the initial stages of the design process. The challenge was related to the layout of the cockpit: the seat is customised to the driver, while the pedals and the ­steering WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 235

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FINE Lifestyle wheel are adjustable. As the driving position resembles that in one-seat cars, Ferrari’s F1 drivers Fernando Alonso and Felipe Massa contributed to the design. They also played an active role throughout the entire design process. Four grades of carbon fibre are used in the chassis, all of them laminated by hand and shaped at the racing car department. The design and manufacturing methods are the same as those used in Formula One. Headed by Flavio Manzoni, the Ferrari design team created the LaFerrari in close cooperation with engineers to ensure an optimal balance between form and function. This resulted in a highly innovative design that is respectful of brand traditions, which is best evident in the profile: the car has a sharp, sloping front and a very low bonnet that highlights its strong tyre arches – a nod to the luxurious shapes of the Ferrari prototypes of the late 1960s. Overall, the LaFerrari ensures almost unbearable excitement in driving in all situations, with excellent performance. Its new V12 engine is aided by an electric motor, which adds 160 horsepower to the 789 horsepower generated by the V12 engine. LaFerrari accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in less than three seconds and from 0 to 200 km/h in less than seven. Its lap time at Fiorano was less than 1 minute and 20 seconds, meaning that it was five seconds faster than the Enzo and more than three seconds faster than the F12berlinetta. In other words, the LaFerrari is the fastest car intended for road use in the long history of ­Maranello. > WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 237

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