T H E WO R L D ’S L E A D I N G F I N E W I N E M AG A Z I N E S 17 e30 No. THE WINE MAGAZINE Champagne of the Decade 2000s • Jacquesson • 100 years of Australian Wines • Taylor’s 1924–2007 • Jaguar B O R D E A U X 2 0 1 5 V I N TAG E

FOUR DOORS. FOUR SEATS. SHARE IN THE LUXURY OF ASTON MARTIN. Official government fuel consumption figures in mpg (litres per 100km) for the Aston Martin Rapide S: urban 14.5 (19.5); extra-urban 31.0 (9.1); combined 21.9 (12.9). CO2 emissions 300g/km. The mpg/fuel economy figures quoted are sourced from official regulated test results obtained through laboratory testing.

A STRIKING LOOK. INTENSE PERFORMANCE. ELEGANT LUXURY. PEERLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP. The Rapide S is a compelling evolution of the world’s most beautiful four-door sports car. Powered by our 6.0-litre, 560 PS V12 engine – it’s the most potent and dynamic Rapide to date. Stylish, spacious and hand-crafted from the finest materials the Rapide S is a car to share, delivering an unforgettable experience for you and your passengers. Discover the Aston Martin Rapide S at www.astonmartin.com They are for comparability purposes only and may not reflect your real driving experience, which may vary depending on factors including road conditions, weather, vehicle load, and driving style.

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I N E W I N E M A G A Z I N E C O N T E N T FINE Content F PAGE 94 Fine TASTING PAGE 112 Fine REGION 11 15 16 26 34 FineVINTAGE The 2012 Bordeaux: A Winemaker’s Vintage FineLEMIRE Column FineCOLLECTING Mornington Peninsula Top 10 FineEVENT FINE India Ambassador’s Dinner 54 FineChampagne Daniel Lorson Book Review 88 FineWine of the Champagne of the Decade 2000s Decade 94 PAGE 26 Fine DOCUMENTARY Fineeditorial The best restaurant experience FineAVELLAN Column 98 FineChampagne Jacquesson 108 FineGARGETT Column 112 126 128 128 FineTASTING Taylor’s – The Ports from the First Growth FineREGION Sherry Fine­ Red Obsession Review Documentary FineLIFESTYLE Jaguar PAGE 126 Fine LIFESTYLE WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 9

F I N E – T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E W r i t e r s FINEMAGAZINES 100 Pall Mall St James, London SW1Y 5HP United Kingdom WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM Tel: +44 (0) 20 76648800 fax: +44 (0) 20 73213738 Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen juha.lihtonen@fine-magazines.com Creative Director Teemu Timperi teemu.timperi@fine-magazines.com Senior Editors Charles A. Banks, Rajiv Singhal Photographer Pekka Nuikki Contributors Essi Avellan MW, Stuart George, Andreas Larsson, Jan-Erik Paulson, Mario Sculatti, John Kapon, Rajiv Singhal, Ken Gargett, Jeff Leve, Dirk Niepoort, Marie Ahm, Markus del Monego MW Media Account Manager Martine Mäkijärvi martine.makijarvi@fine-magazines.com Translator Financial Manager Price Printing House Queries Publisher AAC GLOBAL Noora Mähönen noora.mahonen@fine-magazines.com Single Issue €30 including delivery Single PPDM, Password Protected Digital Magazine, €15 Edita Prima pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Fine Publishing Helsinki Ltd Ahti Business Park Ahventie 4 02170 Espoo, Finland www.fine-magazines.com Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki, founder and editor-in-chief of FINE Magazines, is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He has published over twenty international wine and art books, among them In Vino Veritas, a book on investing in wines, Drinking History on fine wines and their vintages between 1870–1970, a book about the Château Mouton-Rothschild – Wine and Art 1924/1945–2003 and most recently a book about The 1000 Finest wines of the world. Mr Nuikki is also an award-winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and he has worked as executive creative director of advertising agency group. He is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Juha Lihtonen Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen is the editor of FINE – The Wine Magazine and its American & Scandinavian editions and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine director of a major cruise line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Essi Avellan MW Contributor Essi Avellan is the editor of FINE Champagne magazine. She was awarded the Lily Bollinger Medal as the best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award as the best overall student in the Master of Wine examination. Ms Avellan contributes to several newspapers and wine magazines internationally. She judges at several wine competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Wines of Argentina Awards. Ms Avellan has been awarded the title of Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Ken Gargett Contributor Ken Gargett first worked as a lawyer, after obtaining degrees in his home town of Brisbane, Australia, and London. He specialised as a banking lawyer, practising in London, Washington DC and Sydney, and then finance, commerce and property back in Queensland. Even though from a family that did not drink, he became obsessed with wine while at university and moved to wine writing as a full time profession nearly twenty years ago. Since that time, he has been a regular contributor to the AGT Wine Magazine for many years. He has also contributed to a number of books, including the Global Encyclopaedia of Wine and his own guide, ”Don’t Buy Wine Without Me”. He won the Vin de Champagne Award back in 1993, and then in 2003 was inducted as a Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. In 2005, he was a recipient of the Len Evans Scholarship and has done extensive show judging in Australia. He was a co-founder of www.spitbucket.com. Outside wine, he also occasionally writes on cigars, fishing, travel and food. David LeMire MW Contributor David LeMire MW is a wine business professional with experience in retail, distribution, and brand management. A two year stint in London in the mid 90s gave him a ‘eurocentric’ palate, which he further developed in Australia in his roles with a leading importer of fine wine to Australia. From 2000–2007 he was overseeing a portfolio that included many of the great names, such as Vega Sicilia, Gaja, Guigal, Antinori, Leflaive, Coche-Dury, Roulot, Bonneau du Martray, Roumier and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. After importer business, David established an own business of brand management for wineries and importers. He is also a regular contributor to the Australian Wine Business Magazines and a wine show judge. © Copyright: European Fine Wine Magazine Ltd Andrew Caillard MW Andrew Caillard MW is a wine marketing graduate of Roseworthy Agricultural College, South Australia (1984) and passed the Master of Wine examination (winning the prestigious Madame Bollinger Medal for excellence in wine tasting) in 1993. In 1989 he founded Langton’s Sydney and played a key role in establishing Langton’s as Australia’s leading wine auction house. Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine, now in it s6th edition, is regarded as the reference for wine collectors and observers of the ultra-fine wine scene. Andrew is a longstanding columnist and tasting panellist for Australia’s Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine. He chairs Shanghai’s Wine 100 competition, judges at the Japan Wine Challenge and has participated in various shows including the Adelaide Wine Show’s provenance prize. He is the author of the reference book Penfolds “The Rewards of Patience” now its seventh edition. His work as an author, writer and influencer was recognised in 2011 when he won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award. Paper: Galerie Art Silk Rajiv Singhal FINE – The American Wine Magazine ISSN 1799-2222 Ritu Singhal 002 FINE Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent to us without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Magazines. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 10 www.tastingbook.com

I N E – T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E The best restaurant experience tres on analysing the wines instead of simply taking pleasure in them and carrying a spirit-raising conversation at the table. Another thing that can kill the atmosphere of “fine dining” restaurants is the spirit of the staff, distant and cheerless. In a highly rated restaurant, rare are the moments when you can meet a waiter that acts in a spontaneous and relaxed way and shows enthusiasm towards his or her work and product. It is to be deplored that it often seems that only the restaurant owner or the chef have the right to do so, if they happen to make an appearance in the dining room to greet the customers. I had a talk on the subject with a friend who is a top chef and restaurateur. He shared his impressions about the burden occasioned by Michelin stars, the importance of the atmosphere in a restaurant and being able to feel the passion of the staff. I find it easy to agree with his opinions. It was interesting to hear that although he had turned his back on fine dining restaurants and had instead created successful bistros, he still believes that fine dining will see a new resurgence in the near future. The idea is not too far-fetched, because surely the time will come when the customers of relaxed bistros where the kitchen is part of the restaurant space will again want more from their restaurant experiences. If the relaxed atmosphere and feeling of the bistros can be combined with the scene of fine dining restaurants, I believe that our best and most memorable restaurant experiences still lie ahead of us – that concerns me, too. Of course, we should keep in mind that even in that case, what determines enjoyment and experience is good dining company. Here too, one should go by the words of the famous Greek philosopher Epicurus: “Before you think about what to eat and what to drink, think who you are going to do it with.” > TASTE OF FINE Recently I had dinner in Oslo, at the restaurant Maaemo that has received three Michelin stars. I was a guest sitting at the table with other people, many of which I did not know. By my side, there was a man who professed that he was a passionate restaurant buff. He told me that he would save money in order to travel to and eat at the world’s best restaurants and that he kept a diary of his best experiences. Our conversation drifted towards restaurant experiences, and we noticed that we shared multiple instances of having visited the same restaurants. During our conversation, he asked me what had been my best restaurant experience. I was perplexed because I realised that I could not give a direct answer to that question. After a short reflection, I mentioned that my best recent restaurant experience, as far food was concerned, had been the Restaurant at Meadowood in Napa Valley. However, his question continued to gnaw at me: was the Restaurant at Meadowood, with its three Michelin stars, really my best restaurant experience for other aspects too, not only for food? The answer is no. I have had several such experiences, but not in starred restaurants. I have had lunch or dinner at many of the most highly rated restaurants in the world, but when it comes to singling out my best restaurant experience, I realise that none of those experiences come to my mind as something special. Instead, my mind is taken over by many moments full of feeling spent in good company in good bistros and pizzerias. Among those, I can name a lunch with friends at the fish and seafood restaurant O Gaveto in Porto, a hilarious dinner at the pizzeria Napoli Mia in Avignon, a grazy wine feast soiree at Ma Cuisine in Beaune and a relaxed Tuscan lunch at the picturesque Enoteca Tognoni in the village of Bolgheri. The moments I experienced in those restaurants still bring a smile to my face. I no longer remember the dishes I had or even the names of all the wines, but I remember that the food had soul, the wines were good if not great and the people had a good time. If I close my eyes, I can still feel myself sitting at those restaurant tables, I can hear the enjoyment and sense the warm atmosphere of those places. That kind of feeling was absent, with a few exceptions, from many of the restaurants that have been awarded Michelin stars. Why is this? The reason is not the restaurant itself, not the food or the drink, but the people – the company, the other customers and the restaurant staff. In restaurants with Michelin stars, the atmosphere is often not relaxed and things do not happen spontaneously during the course of the evening. People come to those restaurants full of expectations set by the Michelin stars, and each client watches if his or her expectations are fulfilled. People mostly pay attention to the food, the service and how perfectly the wine recommended by the sommelier matches the flavours of the dish, instead of enjoying being together. The rigid atmosphere is maintained by the staff, which rarely bothers to take care of the customers’ well-being, but rather worries about serving the food at the right time, in the correct manner, exactly as the chef demands. The service is executed in the manner of a technical performance. The waiters present the ingredients used for preparing the dishes with a quick speech, after which they leave the customers alone to study the dishes and evaluate if the meal corresponds to their expectations. This can be seen and felt in the restaurant’s atmosphere. The diners at their tables concentrate on analysing their dishes, the room becomes almost silent and the atmosphere becomes rigid. The evening continues in the same rigid manner, one dish after another being analysed. These dinners are like too serious-minded wine tasting parties where each taster cen- FINE Editorial F Juha Lihtonen Editor WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 11

2015 “en-primeur” Text: Andrew Caillard MV Photos: Pekka Nuikki The Bordeaux en primeur tasting in 2015 has echoed great applauds on wine markets. The wine professionals around the world have been convinced that 2015 completes the line of a great series of vintages; 2000, 42 www.tastingbook.com 2005, 2009 and 2010. Some wine professionals speaks it as the vintage of the decade. Andrew Caillard MW shares the overview of the vintage according to his experience of en primeurs.

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2015 Bordeaux “en-primeur” report 2015 is a wonderful Bordeaux vintage without the hype or hysteria associated with 2009 and 2010. The wines are generally expressive and generous with marvellous concentration and structure. Give another year in barrel, the wines should gain more fruit complexity and volume. The Châteaux, across all sub-regions, are excited by the beautiful fragrance, clear fruit flavours and brisk energy of the wines, and believe the vintage to be the best since 2010. More than a few times the phrase “a vintage of the decade” has been mentioned. I have tasted through most of the top wines, some on more than a few occasions, and feel confident that this is a vintage worth supporting. It is a very successful vintage. The perfect season Weather conditions were generally ideal with perfect flowering and set during Spring. A hot dry and sunny spell during June and July kept the vines in balance; the near-drought conditions resulted in excellent cluster development. Veraison (in which the grape berries turn from green and hard to coloured and fleshy) began towards the end of July. Light rains refreshed the canopies and hydrated the clusters. Cooler weather arrived in August with above average rainfall. The northern Medoc was exposed to 44 www.tastingbook.com Force Tranquille,”and Château Petrus were my top two right bank wines followed by Château Ausone. All have a buoyancy and precision that augers well for the future. heavy rains, but no berry splitting or significant disease pressure was reported. The cooler conditions running up to harvest in September allowed the grapes to conserve their aromatic potential and ripen relatively evenly. Right Bank vs Left Bank The red wines across the right bank and the left bank are generally impressive in concentration, vigour and freshness. While all the wines are tasted extremely young, it is easy to see the quality and dimension of the vintage. Merlot performed particularly well, with many Châteaux picking intermittently over a three-week window to achieve optimal freshness, fleshiness and ripeness. Cabernet Franc, its companion in many of the wines, gives an attractive “tannin seam” and structural vigour. Already observers are calling it a right bank (St Emilion & Pomerol) year. Ch Vieux Château Certan, described as “La The southern left bank (Margaux and PessacLeognan) also stumped up some beautiful concentrated wines. The alcoholic strength and tannin ripeness seem to correlate with this imChâteau Pétrus pression. Cabernet Sauvignon, typically ”needing to takes its time”, brought wines of lovely aromaticity, concentration and vitality. The success of this variety has been dependent on the sophistication of harvesting and selection at blending. Château Margaux and Château Palmer are amazing wines. Château Haut Brion and Château La Mission Haut Brion made dense chocolaty styles. Château Haut Bailly is particularly refined and beautifully balanced. At Château Batailley, the introduction of a second wine and closer attention to differentiation, led to one of the best vintages in its history. Many of the small refinements and decisions in the vineyard and winery allowed several top Châteaux in St Julien, Pauillac and St Estephe to make beautiful wines too. The hard selection process is particularly evident on the left bank. Château Margaux and Château Cos d’Estournel chose to rigorously defend their first wines by very detailed picking and selection. Only 35% and 39% (respectively) of the harvest went into their Grand Vin. St Emilion’s Ch Cheval Blanc on the

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FINE Vintage other hand comprised 95.1% of the harvest, leaving no reason to make Petit Cheval in 2015. First Growth advantage Attention to detail in the vineyard, especially after the August rains, and huge investment in optical sorting machines (at a cost of around 200,000 Euros each) at harvest ensured the grapes were in good condition before vinification. It is quite incredible how the fruit arrives into the winery these days. Meticulous attention to detail has become the norm within the Grand Cru Classé community. The First Growth Estates with their huge financial investments in vineyard and cellar practices, all made impressive wines this year. Per- haps the most evocative of all is Château Margaux. The death of the estate’s longstanding winemaker Paul Pontallier, on Easter Sunday from cancer, rocked Bordeaux’s wine community. He was a man for all seasons. He brought the best out of his people and his wines, whatever the vintage offered. 2015 Château Margaux, in all likelihood, will be the greatest vintage of its modern history. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 47

Despite the sombre mood at this year’s 2015 En Primeurs tastings, the energy of Spring brought a sense of renewal. Budburst in the vineyards, white and pink blossom in full bloom, the pure chirrup of fledglings and the vibrant new wines of the vintage promised the animation and maturation of life. The colours, densities, flavours and tannin quality of the young red wines all suggest a great vintage in the making. It is one of the wine trade’s most curious practices to make comment on unfinished wine, yet somehow the predictions become more or less right. Over the next year the wines will develop 48 www.tastingbook.com more fruit complexity, richness and volume in barrel. The tannins, oak and fruit will further integrate. Gorgeous sweet wines The sweet aperitif/ dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac have also fared extremely well. The combination of even ripening and optimum outbreaks of botrytis cinerea has brought some magnificent wines. Some are calling it the best vintage since 2001, arguably the greatest vintage in recent memory. While Ch d’Yquem looked gorgeous, the elegantly styled Ch Climens, still in many parts, will be wonderful. Typically this wine is tasted out of several barrels, and my notes are a composite of eight different elements. The fragrance, vibrancy, freshness, and line are amazing. The dry whites, mainly Sauvignon Blanc or Gris dominant are refreshing styles with attractive freshness and drive. Ch Haut Brion Blanc is an amazing wine, but its release price will reflect its rarity.

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The summary The Châteaux will likely bring out the vintage in two tranches to capture the appetite of the world’s wine trade. The first offers will probably be a touch higher than last years opening prices. This will be against the advice of the negociants who have been running on very low margins for many years now. The weakening of the British Pound and the Australian Dollar against the euro may be a stumbling block for some buyers, but there will be value and opportunity in this forthcoming primeur campaign. This is absolutely the best way to buy Bordeaux. Provenance is guaranteed, allocations confirmed and the price will still be less than future imports, by virtue of the structure of the Place de Bordeaux. Better market conditions in China and the US, together with a significant vintage in both quantity and quality, will see momentum return to Bordeaux after a four-year period of stagnation and uncertainty. The cat and mouse game between the Châteaux, the negociants and wine trade now begins. Regardless of the outcome, Bordeaux will continue to be the fine wine reference for many decades. There is something utterly unique, invigorating and evocative about mature Bordeaux wines. The best of the 2015 will be transformative and delicious to drink. All you need is patience, moderately deep pockets and the will to buy! > 50 www.tastingbook.com

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FINE Vintage Bordeaux 2015 sub-regions overview Margaux Beautiful wines with gorgeous fruit density and fine sinuous tannins. Its is some years since Margaux shone so brightly. Ch Margaux, Ch Palmer, Ch Rauzan Segla, Ch Rauzan Gassies, Alter Ego de Cg Palmer. Ch Pavillon Rouge, Ch Malescot de St Exupery, Ch D’Angludet, Ch Kirwan, Ch Cantenac Brown and Ch Brand Cantenac are highlights. St Julien Pessac-Léognan & Graves Powerful wines with density and strength. Both Ch La Mission Haut Brion and Ch Haut Brion are standouts with amazing concentration and vigour, accompanied by relatively high alcohols. The superb Ch Haut Bailly, Ch Smith Haut Lafitte, and Domaine de Chevalier are my personal favourites. Pomerol Fragrant and well concentrated with slinky textures and inky length. Ch Leoville Lascases, Ch Ducru Beaucaillou and Ch Leoville Barton were top performers. But I also liked Ch Beychevelle, Ch Branaire Ducru and Ch Lagrange, Croix de Beaucaillou and Ch Lalande Borie, both connected to Ch Ducru Beaucaillou, are beneficiaries of meticulous selection. Wonderful fleshy wines with superb concentration and chocolaty textures. It is one of the most impressive Pomerol vintages of the last twenty years with ”lots of shoulder and length.” Vieux Chateau Certan and Ch Petrus were profound standouts. The list is long but Ch Latour-à-Pomerol, Ch La Fleur, Ch Lafleur Petrus, Ch Trontanoy, Ch Hosanna and Ch Bon Pasteur were also highlights. Pauillac St Emilion The very top estates made great wine. The First Growths all made very fine wines. There is a debate about which is best. I like Ch Mouton Rothschild the best and admired Ch Latour for its precision and potential for longevity. The latter won’t be released en-primeur so ist academic. Ch Lafite is excellent too. Ch Pontet Canet is outstanding, as you would expect from such an enlightened and eccentric estate. I was also immensely impressed with Ch Batailley and Ch Lynch Bages. Ch Clerc Milon, Ch Grand Puy Lacoste, Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and its opposite neighbour Ch Pichon Longueville Baron. St Estephe Classic wines with aromatic complexity and muscular drive. A little more variable than other sub-regions, probably because of its exposure to heavy rains and Atlantic weather. Ch Montrose and Ch Cos’ d’Estournel made beautiful wines, by very careful selection of the crop. Their associate wines were very good too; La Dame de Montrose, Ch Tronquoy-Lalande and Pagodes de Cos. A very strong year, many wines having superb fruit generosity, freshness and line. Ch Angelus, Ch Ausone, Ch Canon, Ch Cheval Blanc, Ch Figeac, Ch Trottevielle, and Ch Troplong Mondot are very top performers. Highlights also include Ch Beauséjour, Ch Canon La-Gaffelliere. Ch Gracia, Ch La Couspaude, Ch La Dominique, Ch Larmande, Ch Pavie Macquin, Quinault L’Enclos, Clos Fourtet, La Chapelle d’Ausone and Clos Cantenac. Ch Chantecaille Clauzel, lying like a shag on an encrusted diamond rock, is not particularly well known, but its story is remarkable and the wine worth buying for the conversation alone. Sauternes & Barsac A very strong year. The wines possess beautiful fragrance, clarity, viscosity, richness and acid line. Ch Climens, Ch Coutet and Ch Guiraud are wonderful standouts. Ch de Rayne Vigneau, Ch Doisy Daene, Ch Doisy Vedrines. Clos Haut Peyraguey, Ch La Tour Blanche, Ch Rabaud Promis, Ch Rieussec and Suduiraut all produced fine examples too. The lesser known Ch Broustet, Ch Caillou, Ch de Myrat and Ch Suau were exemplary. Ch d’Yquem is of course impressive, but next door neighbour Ch Guiraud, offers a very similar quality and style. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 53

TOP 50 WINES 2015 Vieux Chateau Certan – Pomerol 100p Deep colour. Fresh aromatic musky dark plum aromas with praline, fine espresso, vanilla oak. Sweet dark cherry, musky plum praline violet flavours, beautiful long fine chalky silky tannins, superb savoury oak complexity and mid palate viscosity. Fine dry grainy finish with beautiful flavour length. A very sophisticated wine with lovely freshness and line. Finesse and elegance. Petrus – Pomerol 100p Medium deep colour. Fragrant inky dark plum, dark cherry aniseed aromas with touch of praline, espresso oak. Beautiful concentrated wine with inky dark plum dark cherry fruit, supple vigorous graphite textures, generous smooth yet juicy rich mid palate, cedar mocha oak notes and slinky firm tannin finish. Perfectly balanced and integrated with lovely energy vibrancy and juiciness. A great Ch Petrus in the making. Château Margaux – Margaux 100p Medium deep colour. Lovely cherry, cola, herb aromas. Silky smooth beautifully balanced wine with red currant, red cherry plum flavours with graphite, espresso, chinotto notes, fine loose knit lacy slightly graphite textures and roasted coffee mocha notes. Fruit expands towards the back palate with light graphite plume at the finish. One of the great wines of the vintage and an evocative salute to Ch Margaux’s great winemaker Paul Pontallier (22nd April 1956 – 27th March 2016). Château Palmer – Margaux 99p Deep. Very attractive wine. Intense cassis, dark plum, inky fresh aromas. Richly flavoured and rounded with elemental inky cassis dark plum fruit, extra fine grainy long perfectly ripe tannins and espresso, roasted chestnut oak complexity. Finishes firm and tight yet long and sweet. Gorgeous ”Power and finesse”. A long haul wine. Will last a hundred years. Château Ausone – St Emilion 99p Dark plum, roasted chestnut aromas. Substantial and involved wine with concentrated ripe dark plummy blackberry fruits, brambly yet spinuous tannins and plenty of mocha oak. Powerful and generous yet lovely precision and line. Elemental and richly flavoured with al dente grippy firmness. Paneforte plum flavours at the finish. 54 www.tastingbook.com

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Vieux Chateau Certan – Pomerol 100p Château Mouton Rothschild – Pauillac 98p Deep colour. Fresh aromatic musky dark plum aromas with praline, fine espresso, vanilla oak. Sweet dark cherry, musky plum praline violet flavours, beautiful long fine chalky silky tannins, superb savoury oak complexity and mid palate viscosity. Fine dry grainy finish with beautiful flavour length. A very sophisticated wine with lovely freshness and line. Finesse and elegance. Deep colour. Intense pure cassis, mulberry herb aromas with praline mocha notes. Well concentrated and elegant with a rich saturated robe of cassis redcurrant, flavours, cedar ginger oak and plentiful tannins. Supple yet muscular and gravelly. Has strength and finesse. Very fine wine this year. Petrus – Pomerol 100p Medium deep colour. Fragrant inky dark plum, dark cherry aniseed aromas with touch of praline, espresso oak. Beautiful concentrated wine with inky dark plum dark cherry fruit, supple vigorous graphite textures, generous smooth yet juicy rich mid palate, cedar mocha oak notes and slinky firm tannin finish. Perfectly balanced and integrated with lovely energy vibrancy and juiciness. A great Ch Petrus in the making. Château Margaux – Margaux 100p Medium deep colour. Lovely cherry, cola, herb aromas. Silky smooth beautifully balanced wine with red currant, red cherry plum flavours with graphite, espresso, chinotto notes, fine loose knit lacy slightly graphite textures and roasted coffee mocha notes. Fruit expands towards the back palate with light graphite plume at the finish. One of the great wines of the vintage and an evocative salute to Ch Margaux’s great winemaker Paul Pontallier (22nd April 1956 – 27th March 2016). Château Palmer – Margaux 99p Deep. Very attractive wine. Intense cassis, dark plum, inky fresh aromas. Richly flavoured and rounded with elemental inky cassis dark plum fruit, extra fine grainy long perfectly ripe tannins and espresso, roasted chestnut oak complexity. Finishes firm and tight yet long and sweet. Gorgeous ”Power and finesse”. A long haul wine. Will last a hundred years. Château Ausone – St Emilion 99p Dark plum, roasted chestnut aromas. Substantial and involved wine with concentrated ripe dark plummy blackberry fruits, brambly yet spinuous tannins and plenty of mocha oak. Powerful and generous yet lovely precision and line. Elemental and richly flavoured with al dente grippy firmness. Paneforte plum flavours at the finish. 56 www.tastingbook.com Château Latour –Pauillac 98p Deep colour. Classic powerful Pauillac with beautiful clear blackcurrant herb aniseed cedar aromas. Concentrated cassis, dark plum, cedar, flavours with chicory notes, fine muscular tannins and cedar complexity. Finish brambly firm but long in both flavour and minerality. Very precise, über-cool and for the long haul. Lengthens out at the finish. Compared to 1982. Bloody good wine. Château Figeac - St Emilion 98p Deep colour. Intense liquorice, cassis, pastille, praline aromas. Fresh sweet fruit flavours, pastille, dark chocolate flavours, fine plentiful ripe velvet tannins and underlying savoury oak. Graphite finish. Lovely balanced wine with vigour and dimension. A great Figeac - totally controlled and balanced. Gorgeous wine. 29% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon. Château Canon - St Emilion 98p Deep colour. Beautiful black cherry, plum herb aromas with praline notes. Lovely sIinky black cherry plum flavours, fine graphite, slinky textures, midpalate richness and generosity. savoury oak notes and mineral length. Lovely balance , strength and texture with superb fruit density and suppleness. Superb energy and drive. Still elemental but balanced for the long term. Château d’Yquem – Sauternes 98p Pale colour. Intense honeycomb, ginger, grapefruit glacé aromas. Beautiful ripe grapefruit pineapple flavours with ginger marzipan notes, fine looseknit slinky textures and lovely mineral length. Very tangy yet incredibly well concentrated. Lovely weight and texture. Not heavy nor light. Very good wine. Picked four times between 3rd September and 21st October.

FINE Vintage Château Climens – Barsac 98p Château Sigalas Rabaud – Sauternes 97p Pale colour. Fresh dried apricot, white flowers, pineapple, grapefruit aniseed aromas and flavours with honeyed marzipan notes. Superb luscious yet perfectly weighted fruit with underlying ginger oak, light chalky textures and superb mineral cut. Tasted several barrels, each from different tries. The best way to taste an unfinished wine. Medium pale colour. Lemon curd, tonic water with floral aniseed notes. Generous lemon curd, ginger oak, beautiful lime verbena notes, fine al dente textures and superb mineral line. Very expressive wine with the slightly sappy bitter notes giving dimension, expression and freshness. Château Smith Haut Lafitte - Pessac Leognan 97p Deep colour. Fresh dark chocolate, dark cherry, with hint of musky Turkish Delight notes. Generous and supple with lovely rich dark cherry, blackcurrant pastille fruit, mocha oak and chocolaty tannins. Finishes chalky, long and juicy. Lovely richness, depth and length. Powerful yet graceful wine. Impressive wine. Château Pontet Canet – Pauillac 97p Medium deep colour. Dark cherry, chinotto, cassis, ginger notes. Lovely supple and fleshy wine with cassis cola, fine sinewy touch grippy tannins bit lovely buoyancy and weight. Underlying ginger, savoury nutty notes. Lovely mineral length. Château Montrose - St Estephe 97p Medium deep colour. Elderberry, blackcurrant herb garden aromas with savoury graphite, black olive notes. Plush richly textured wine yet very balanced WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 57

and fresh with cassis chocolate, vanilla graphite notes, plentiful ripe tannins, savoury biscuity oak. Finishes chalky firm with and inky long finish. Still elemental but very attractive with plenty of cellaring potential. More volume than Lafite Château Latour a Pomerol 97p Beautiful wine. DC. Fragrant dark cherry plum, boysenberry aromas with mocha oak and garrigue notes. Superb density of fruit. Delicious redcurrant, boysenberry fruit, plentiful chocolaty tannins, some cola notes and mocha oak. Rich and generous wine. Firm chocolaty finish. Great cellaring potential. Château Lafleur – Pomerol 97p Medium deep colour. Expansive and expressive wine with intense mulberry plum star anise aromas and savoury biscuity oak nuances. Vigorous yet seem less with generous mulberry plum fruits, touch of praline and vanilla and hint of graphite. Tannins are lacey and dry. Inky fruit pastille notes plume towards the end palate. Chalky al dente firm with a bitter chinotto kick at the finish. Understated yet gorgeous. Château Lafite – Pauillac 97p Medium deep colour. Cassis, dark chocolate espresso violet aromas with graphite notes. Well concentrated wine with cassis blackberry fruit, graphite nuances, fine gritty tannins touch Al-dente. Attractive inky complete its. Build up velvety firm and tight. Lovely mineral length. Classical and well balanced. Light but heavy. Lafite style. Château La Mission Haut Brion - Pessac Leognan 97p Deep colour. Attractive dark plum, dark chocolate paneforte aromas with herb notes. Rich and chocolaty with deep set dark plum, elderberry fruit, fine chocolaty textures and mocha oak. Generous and vigorous with inky density and brambly dry aldente finish. Elemental but impressive with high pigmentation. Château Haut Bailly - Pessac Leognan 97p Deep colour. Lovely aromatic complexity. Beautiful perfumed strawberry black cherry violet praline. Supple and silky with beautiful pristine Dark cherry, strawberry inky flavours, fine grained simplistic tannins and lovely mineral length. Finishes al dente firm with lovely sweet fruit notes. Lovely density. 58 www.tastingbook.com Ginger oak notes. Not powerful but has a graceful structure. A cracker. Showing First Growth quality. Château Guiraud – Sauternes 97p Medium pale colour. Floral, beeswax marzipan honeyed aromas. Crystalised grapefruit, tonic water dried apricot, honey flavours, lovely silky viscosity, underlying savoury vanillin oak and superb mineral length. Touch of al dente, gives attractive bitterness and depth. Lovely wine with beautiful persistency of flavour. Lovely balance of botrytis and fruit. Domaine de Chevalier - Pessac Leognan 96p Medium deep colour. Intense expresso, mocha blackcurrant aromas with cedar complexity. Supple and creamy with sinuous dark berry, blackcurrant pastille notes, fine looseknit chalky tannins and lovely roasted chestnut vanilla oak. Finishes minerally with long cassis aniseed notes. Very well balanced wine. Heading towards first growth like quality. Château Rauzan Segla – Margaux 96p Deep colour. Fresh dark berry cassis, liquorice with cedar notes, Substantial buoyant wine with wonderful density fruit power, chocolaty tannins and balanced new oak notes. Finishes chocolaty, al-dente firm. Very good wine. Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc – Bordeaux 96p Lemon lime grapefruit aromas ginger spice notes. Well concentrated grapefruit, lime lemon tonic water flavours, crisp acidity with juicy notes. Supple and voluminous with excellent length. Château Lynch Bages – Pauillac 96p Deep colour. Intense fresh elderberry cassis aromas with liquorice, aniseed notes. Sweet fruited and densely packed with lovely cassis, praline flavours, fine grainy tannins and plentiful new vanilla oak. Finishes firm with lovely mineral length. Very good wine. Château Leoville Lascases – St Julien 96p Deep colour. Elderberry, liquorice, graphite aromas. Sweet, dark chocolate, liquorice, blackberry fruit, very dry tannins, savoury oak complexity. Finishes long with al dente notes. Very savoury wine with graphite dusty notes. One for the long haul.

Château Cos d’Estournel - St Estephe 96p Medium deep colour. Fragrant inky cedar plum liquorice aromas Swish and plush on the palate with buoyant dark berry fruit, plentiful velvety tannins and attractive new savoury, vanilla oak. Finishes chocolaty and long, Powerful yet refined, dense and chocolaty yet precise and minerally. Deep colour. Dark berry cassis, pastille like aromas with herb garden ginger spice notes. Fresh supple inky wine with cassis fruit, fine muscular but precise tannins. Finishes firm but the fruit has outstanding persistency. Al dente finish. Lovely precision, muscular drive and mineral length. 13.4 alcohol Château La Fleur Petrus – Pomerol 96p Château Batailley – Pauillac 96p Medium deep colour. Redcurrant plum floral star anise aromas. Supple sweet fruited wine with dense red currant plummy fruit, fresh sinuous fine tannins, savoury oak notes. Lovely persistence. Aniseed kick at the finish. Still elemental but will develop very well. Deep colour. Fresh dark cherry cedar cola aromas. Well-concentrated dark cherry cola chinotto flavours, fine looseknit chalky dry textures and some vanilla elements. Finishes gravelly firm with persistent cassis fruit. Some lovely roasted notes in the background. Very good density, richness and vinosity. Château Hosanna – Pomerol 96p Medium deep colour. Attractive red plum redcurrant aromas with inky notes. Elegantly styled yet rich and voluminous with red plum redcurrant inky flavours, balanced savoury oak, long grainy slightly al dente tannins and superb mineral length. Lovely vinosity and freshness. FINE Vintage Le Bon Pasteur – Pomerol 96p Château Angelus – St Emilion 96p Deep colour. Fresh dark berry ginger, herb aromas. Dark cherry, dark plum ginger, fine sweet fine tannins, savoury oak notes. Lovely vanilla finish with al dente, slightly grippy textures. Excellent wine with generosity and freshness. Château Palmer Alter Ego - Margaux 96p Deep colour. Blackberry, elderberry aromas with savoury oak notes. Inky blackberry cassis creamy flavours, silky extra fine graphite textures, and underlying vanilla, mocha ginger oak. Finishes firm and chewy at the finish. Elemental but in perfect symmetry. Lovely wine. Château Valandraud – St Emilion 95p Château Haut Brion - Pessac Leognan 96p Deep colour. Dark plum graphite aromas with black olive mocha notes. Rich and voluminous with dark plum graphite elderberry flavours, plentiful chalky/ gravelly textures, supple almost velvety mid palate and plenty of flavour length. Al dente grippy finish. Very good potential. Château Doisy Daene –Barsac 96p Medium pale colour. Lemon grapefruit pith honey aromas with savoury oak notes. Well concentrated wine with honey lemon glacé flavours, superb viscosity and ginger oak flavours. Finishes chalky with plenty of lemon glacé notes. Some al dente, bitter, tonic water notes add to the complexity and interest. Bloody good. Deep colour. Intense dark cherry, dark chocolate, ginger, sweet fruit aromas. Rich dense, chocolaty, with brambly textures. Finishes long and minerally. Very good. Generous and substantial yet with finesse and balance. Château Trotanoy – Pomerol 95p Medium deep colour. Blackberry pastille, graphite aromas with savoury oak complexity. Sweet plum, inky blackberry flavours with liquorice notes, fine plentiful chalky slightly sappy tannins and marked acidity. Juicy firm wine with density and length. Elemental and vigorous. 95 points Château Troplong Mondot - St Emilion 95p Deep colour. Fresh intense Dark plum liquorice herb aromas with dark cherry notes. Sweet plummy fruit with ginger oak notes, perfectly ripe tannins and lovely mineral length. Ripe and expressive with an alcoholic kick. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 59

Château Suduiraut – Sauternes 95p Medium deep. Lemon marzipan aromas with herb notes. Fresh supple wine with rich marzipan grapefruit ginger flavours, silky viscous mid-palate and lovely fresh acid line. Impressive wine with chalky firm touch bitter finish. Very good length. Château Rauzan Gassies – Margaux 95p Château Haut Brion Blanc -Pessac Leognan 95p Pale colour. Intense lemon curd, white flowers, grapefruit aromas with vanilla nuances. Beautiful roundness and density. Lemon curd, grapefruit flavours, fresh long mineral acidity. Pure lemony finish with aniseed notes. Very attractive wine with plenty of potential. Alcohol quite high at 15.3%. Deep colour. Intense dark cherry, cassis aromas with musky Turkish Delight notes. Well balanced wine with rich cassis plum fruit, supple long fine firm tannins. Lovely mineral length and fruit persistency. Delicious wine. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – Pauillac 95p Cassis, roasted cedar aromas with mocha notes. Richly flavoured and elemental with ripe blackcurrant aromas, ginger, savoury biscuity oak and round generous tannins. Finishes firm with attractive tannin plume. Plenty of substance yet balanced. Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge – Margaux 95p Medium deep colour. Red cherry, dark berry aromas with vanillin notes. Supple red cherry, strawberry, red cherry fruits, sinuous looseknit lacey tannins, underlying mocha oak and persistent chalky plume. Lovely mineral length. Château Pavie Maquin - St Emilion 95p Deep colour. Intense plum, Turkish Delight violet aromas with savoury vanilla oak notes. Richly concentrated wine with bitter sweet chinotto notes, fresh dark cherry musky flavours, vanilla oak complexity and chalky al dente textures. Elegantly styled wine with balance and freshness. Château Pape Clement - Pessac Leognan 95p Deep colour. Intense dark cherry, praline aromas. Rich chocolaty wine with plenty of dark cherry, dark plum fruits, mocha oak complexity and plentiful fine looseknit tannins. Classic Michel Rolland wine. Modern and well balanced wine with fine grippy aniseed length. Very well suited to the Australian palate. 60 www.tastingbook.com BORDEAUX 2015 BY MARKUS DEL MONEGO MW It will be one of the excellent vintages however hardly to compare to 2009 and 2010 or 2005. In 2015 the region played a major role, terroir was the key to success. For red wines, the limestone plateau in SaintEmilion performed extremely well as there was water available during the hot summer days and drainage proved to be ideal during rainy August. Therefore the best wines of Saint-Emilion come from limestone soils. The sandy parts of the appellation produced a quite heterogeneous result. In Pomerol it looked the same with very successful wines from the central plateau and more heterogeneous qualities from the areas around. In Fronsac it was not only the terroir which proved important, the vintners decision had a major impact. Pessac-Léognan did extremely well in this vintage with a homogenous quality. The Médoc was divided. The southern part, mainly Margaux and the southern part of Saint-Julien have seen less rain and produced more powerful wines. The northern part of the Médoc, especially Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe have produced a very fine and elegant style with excellent persistence. On the good terroirs, theseeds were ripe which results in very ripe tannins with a silky or velvety expression. In addition the cooler conditions of autumn provoked a very pure and fresh fruit. For the dry white wines the quality depends very much on the origin again. Due to the hot and dry growing season, a lot of white wines show very mild, almost soft acidity but also some phenolic hints in the aftertaste. A few dry white wines are standing out, having preserved freshness and acidity. The sweet wines are remarkably good, very rich in character and the best of them have a crisp acidity balancing the opulent sugar. The tasting conditions were rather good, however the weather was quite mixed affecting the presentation of the wines. The wines were tasted blind where possible and open. The final decision on the rating is based on both tasting types.

Château Ausone 99p A truly great wine. Dark purple red colour with violet hue and black core. Powerful yet elegant nose with complex approach. Blackberries, elderberries, hints of sloe, elegant spiciness. On the palate rich yet elegant with great length, freshness and excellent tannins. A wine with a very persistent character, excellent complexity and finesse. Vieux Château Certan 98p Dark purple red colour with violet hue and almost black core. Pure fruit, elegant style with discreet spiciness and hints of minerality. Opening up very slowly, blackcurrants and dark berries, vanilla and hints of toasted gingerbread. Perfect maturity, excellent tannins and marvellous length. Great purity of fruit in the nose and on the palate. A great wine in its classic splendour with elegance, freshness and great aromatic depth. Pétrus 98p Dark purple red with violet hue and almost black core. Great nose, initially quite closed, with very elegant and pure fruit, elderberries, blackberries, black cherries, ripe plums, vanilla and hints of roasting aroma, A nose opening up slowly. Complex and rich with persistence and elegance, freshness and hints of minerality. Expressive and juicy fruit, mild spices in the aftertaste. A great wine for Pétrus, opulence, elegance and persistence. Château Mouton-Rothschild 98p Dark purple red with violet hue and black core. Gorgeous wine with complex character, excellent nose with ripe blackcurrants, hints of graphite, vanilla, dark chocolate and cocoa, hints of toasted aromas. With some oxygen opening up very well. On the palate perfectly ripe tannins, elegant freshness, juicy fruit in the background. A great Mouton, one of the best ever tasted en primeur . Château Margaux 98p Dark purple colour with almost black core. Very complex and expressive nose, elegant fruit, mild spices, hints of minerality, in the background dark chocolate and floral notes. A wine with very complex character on the nose. On the palate mild spices, ripe and silky tannins, a wine aromatic start, complex mid-palate and great length, creating an extraordinary tension on the palate. This wine is the perfect definition for elegance and persistent. Château Haut-Brion Blanc 98p Bright yellow with green hue. Elegant but persistent nose with pure fruit, fresh grapefruit and tangerine, hints of lime-zest. In FINE Vintage TOP 1o Wines BY MarKus del moneGo mW the background tropical fruit, passionfruit and mango, hints of vanilla and slightly mineral character. On the palate rich fruit in combination with freshness and elegant acidity, excellent length. A great wine with class, Sauvignon-Blanc driven, with very complex character. Château Lafite-Rothschild 98p Dark purple red with violet hue. Very attractive nose, multi-layered, with pure fruit, very precisely structured, discreet hints of spices. On the palate great depth and length with pure fruit, fine acidity, silky tannins and long lingering fruit in the finish. Attractive and approachable fruit in the first moment, well structured mid-palate and never-ending length in the finish. A complex and great Lafite. Château Cheval-Blanc 98p Dark purple red with violet hue and almost black core. Well concentrated nose with typical Cabernet-Franc character, raspberries and hints of violets, blackcurrants in the background as well as hints of dark cherries. Excellent palate with great length, freshness and minerality, fine fruit, complex flavour. A wine with depth, ChevalBlanc back at its own style and great character. Château Haut-Brion 98p Dark purple red with violet hue and black core. Initially quite closed character, opening up towards complex aroma reminiscent of blackcurrants and elderberries, distinct minerality, graphite and elegant roasting aroma, hints of dark chocolate in the background. On the palate well structured with precise tannins, well matured, velvety character on the palate with excellent length and complex finish. A great wine with freshness, complexity and appetising tension of flavours. Château Latour 98p Dark purple red with violet hue and black core. Densely woven nose, still closed fruit, discreet spiciness, multi-layered character. On the palate very fine and mature tannins, excellent depth and length, well structured ripe fruit and hints of mild spices. Château de l’Evangile 98p Dark purple red with violet hue and black core. Aromatic nose reminiscent of fresh crushed grapes, gingerbread spices, hints of roasting aroma. On the palate well structured with opulent start but fresh finish, good mid-palate with balanced tannins and sweet fruit. Very opulent but also fresh character with excellent length and very accessible style. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 61

TOP 50 BORDEAUX by .COM Name Tb Producer Location 1 Pétrus 97.9 Château Pétrus Pomerol, France 2 d’Yquem 97.7 Château d’Yquem Bordeaux, France 3 Château Margaux 97.4 Château Margaux Bordeaux, France 4 Château Ausone 97.2 Château Ausone Bordeaux, France 5 Vieux Chateau Certan 97.1 Vieux Château Certan Bordeaux, France 6 Château L´Evangile 97.0 Château L´Evangile Pomerol, France 7 Château Climens 97.0 Château Climens Sauternes, France 8 Cheval Blanc 96.7 Château Cheval Blanc Bordeaux, France 9 Lafite-Rothschild 96.7 Château Lafite-Rothschild Bordeaux, France 96.5 Château Latour Bordeaux, France 10 Château Latour 96.5 Château Mouton-Rothschild Bordeaux, France 12 La Mission Haut Brion 11 Château Mouton-Rothschild 96.5 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France 13 Moulin a Vent Clos de Rochegrès 96.5 Château des Jacques Burgundy, France 14 Château Haut-Brion 96.5 Château Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France 15 Château Angelus 96.4 Château Angelus Bordeaux, France 16 Château de Figeac 96.4 Château de Figeac Saint-Emilion, France 17 Château Canon 96.3 Château Canon St. Emilion, France 18 Château Palmer 96.2 Château Palmer Bordeaux, France 19 L’Eglise-Clinet 96.2 Château L’Eglise-Clinet 20 Tertre Roteboeuf 96.0 Château Tertre Roteboeuf Bordeaux, France Bordeaux, France 21 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 96.0 Château Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France 22 Château de Valandraud 96.0 Château Valandraud St.Emilion, France 23 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 95.9 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Bordeaux, France 24 Château Pichon Longueville 95.9 Château Pichon Longueville Bordeaux, France Comtesse de Lalande 95.8 Château Trotanoy Comtesse de Lalande 25 Trotanoy Pomerol, France 26 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 95.8 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Bordeaux, France 27 Lafleur 95.7 Château Lafleur Bordeaux, France 28 Montrose 95.7 Château Montrose Bordeaux, France 29 Domaine de Chevalier 95.5 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac Leognan, France 30 Léoville-Las Cases 95.5 Château Léoville-Las Cases Saint-Julien, France 31 Château Trottevieille 95.3 Château Trottevieille Bordeaux, France 32 Clos Fourtet 95.3 Clos Fourtet Bordeaux, France 33 Château Rieussec 95.3 Château Rieussec Sauternes, France 34 Pavie 95.3 Château Pavie Bordeaux, France 35 Château Troplong-Mondot 95.2 Château Troplong-Mondot Saint-Emilion, France 36 Château La Fleur-Pétrus 95.2 Château Lafleur-Pétrus Bordeaux, France 37 Château La Conseillante 95.2 Château La Conseillante Bordeaux, France 38 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 95.0 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 39 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 95.0 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Bordeaux, France 40 Château Hosanna 95.0 Château Hosanna Bordeaux, France 41 Bélair Monange 95.0 Château Bélair Monange Bordeaux, France Bordeaux, France 42 Château Rauzan-Ségla 95.0 Château Rauzan-Ségla Bordeaux, France 43 Château Laplagnotte-Bellevue 95.0 Château Laplagnotte-Bellevue Bordeaux, France 44 Chateau Beausejour Duffau-Lagarosse 95.0 Château Beausejour Duffau-Lagarosse Bordeaux, France 62 45 Château Pavie-Macquin 95.0 Château Pavie-Macquin Bordeaux, France 46 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 95.0 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac Leognan, France Bordeaux, France 47 Sigalas-Rabaud 95.0 Château Sigalas-Rabaud 48 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese 95.0 Weingut Willi Schaefer Mosel, Germany 49 Château Calon Ségur 95.0 Château Calon-Ségur St.Estèphe, France 50 La Mondotte 95.0 La Mondotte Bordeaux, France www.tastingbook.com

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COLUMN DAVID LEMIRE MW WHOLE BUNCH F our staggeringly good red Burgundies stole the show at a recent dinner at Celcius in Adelaide, which I attended with 10 young South Australian winemakers. Leroy ­Latricières-Chambertin, Rousseau Chambertin, and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanee-St-Vivant, all from 1999, and Comte George de Vogüé Bonnes Mares from 2009. Given that two of these wines were made from completely de-stemmed grapes – the Rousseau and the Vogué – and two were from ‘whole bunch’ ­ferments, the subject of stems was hard to ignore. Fermenting with whole bunches is the winemaking trend of the moment, spreading from its most entrenched territory in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley to diverse regions and varieties. The most famous examples are, of course, those Burgundians mentioned above, along with the hugely influential Domaine Dujac, where stems have always been part of the winemaking routine and the personality of the wines. But for many other producers, working with stems represents a step back in time. De-stemming was rare in Burgundy prior to the 1980s, when the influence of Henri Jayer, who popularized the technique, coupled with the demand from the USA for plush, opulent styles of Burgundy, saw it become widespread. Including stems, normally by way of whole uncrushed bunches, but sometimes via destem- 120 www.tastingbook.com ming and then returning some stems to the vat, will normally add tannin to the wine, and reduce colour as some is absorbed by the stems. The wine’s pH will rise, due to the potassium in the stems; the temperature of the ferment will be moderated, and the ferment will tend to be longer as it is less efficient, and slightly less alcohol will be produced. The impact on flavor can be significant, and using stems that have sufficient ripeness is crucial if green stalky notes are to be avoided. And of course, with the whole bunches having completely intact berries, some carbonic maceration can add to complexity. Ironically, for most people using stems, the aim is not to make more tannic wines. In fact, whole bunch ferments work well with another key trend in Burgundy, that of gentle maceration. On a recent visit to Burgundy, several producers told me that rather than doing one or two pigeages per day, for the 2009s they did one or two during the entire three weeks or so on skins. Less extraction by agitation, and more, gentler, extraction by an extended ferment, with stem tannins contributing. In Australia, whole bunch has been widely practiced for Pinot Noir, with Garry Farr (who has done 20-odd vintages at Domaine Dujac) perhaps the most successful exponent. For Shiraz, though, it is a more recent phenomenon, but one that is gaining currency each year. The wines of leading cool climate Shiraz producers,

FINE Column Clonakilla (up to 30% whole bunch) and­ Mt Langi (up to 40% whole bunch) make a compelling case for the technique’s appropriateness for Shiraz in Australia. Perhaps the most important thing to understand about this trend is the changes in philosophy that it reflects. Certainly there is the move away from high levels of extraction, with less desire for plush and inky wines. But working with whole bunches also fits the ambition to make wines of more personality, and less homogeneity. Whole bunches also fit the aim to make wines with less intervention, more clearly expressing the site, and less reflecting the winemakers stamp. There’s no doubt that whole bunch ferments fit well with the spirit of winemaking in many parts of the world, not least Burgundy, where so many producers abandoned it. But don’t expect everyone to follow suit. Burgundy’s best winemakers have strong views on the best way to make wine at their domains, and won’t be easily swayed. I suspect there’s as much chance of Francois Millet at Comte de Vogüé embracing stems as there is of the team at Domaine Dujac eschewing them. But when one considers the beauty that these styles at each end of the spectrum can achieve, and the myriad variations between them, hopefully polite disagreement, rather than furious agreement, continues to thrive. > WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 121

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FINE Collecting M ornington Peninsula is part of what has become known as the dress circle of wine regions around Melbourne in Victoria (along with Macedon, Geelong and the Yarra Valley). Like most of these surrounding regions, a number of varieties excel but none more so than the Burgundians – Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Some of Australia’s best examples of both are found here. Text: Ken Gargett Photos: Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 17

Port Phillip Estate T he universal problem with any Top Ten list is that if you are asked for the same list the following day, there is every chance that it will change. A Top Ten list of Mornington Peninsula wineries is tough enough to compile in the first place, but every time I find ten with which I am happy, I think of a few more deserving of a place. So, before we get into the top ten, here are some cracking wineries, all worth visiting and definitely worth drinking – Port Phillip Estate, Dexter, Polperro, Quealy, Scorpo, Elgee Park, Montalto, Willow Creek, Dromana, T’Gallant, Crittenden Estate, Ocean Eight and Principia. And that doesn’t include ‘outsiders’ who source fruit from the region, such as William Downie. If you ask me tomorrow, half of these are just as likely to be on my list. And I’ll have thought of a few more. Pinot Noir seems especially at home on the Peninsula, though there are very different styles. They range from fragrantly elegant to rich, full-flavoured, complex efforts. The cooler sub-regions tend to the softer tannins with gentle red fruits, cherries, strawberries and raspberries. The warmer sub-regions are giving Pinot that is more tannic with darker fruits, not least plums. Chardonnay can be wonderfully complex with great intensity and a lingering persistence. Alluring, supple texture and with citrus and stonefruit notes. They also have the knack of ageing extremely well, which must be partly attributed to the high level of natural acidity found in the ripe 18 www.tastingbook.com grapes. Thus malolactic fermentation is the rule. It appears that the Peninsula is one of the better regions for Pinot Gris and even some stunning Shiraz. The sub-regions are, at this stage, unofficial and commonly referred to as ‘down the hill’, which is more northerly, and ‘up the hill’, the more southerly. The ‘north’ includes places such as Main Ridge, Red Hill and Moorooduc and sits at the higher altitudes. Altitude ranges between 25 and 250 metres above sea level. The seasonal The wines listed here are not all current vintages but all are recent and most should still be found if you search hard or check cellar door. The producers and wines are listed in alphabetical order. Eldridge Estate The focus of this winery in the Red Hill subregion is very much on Pinot Noir, though David Lloyd also produces one of the country’s more interesting Gamays. Sadly, David’s very popular wife, Wendy, passed away a few years ago. She was an integral part of the Estate but after some time, David is back and focusing on his fascinating wines. Eldridge is always tinkering and experimenting, often in cahoots with the team at Paradigm Hill. The wines tend to the subtle end of the spectrum, elegance rather than brute force. The vines are some of the oldest in the region. Pinot Noir 2014 ($60) 93 points rainfall sits between 12 and 15 inches. So much surrounding water ensures a maritime climate. This maritime influence may mitigate any serious climate change that may occur in the forthcoming years to a degree, but the ultimate impact remains to be seen. Bright and fresh. This is quite a vibrant style with delicious cherry flavours and also notes of cherry pits. The first impression is of a pretty wine, but it is soon apparent that there is much more to it than that. Gentle fresh acidity. Good persistence. Delicious now and for the next few years.

FINE Collecting Pinot Noir seems especially at home on the Peninsula, though there are very different styles. They range from fragrantly elegant to rich, full-flavoured, complex efforts. The cooler sub-regions tend to the softer tannins with gentle red fruits, cherries, strawberries and raspberries. Hurley Vineyard One might think that working as a Judge on the Victorian Supreme Court might occupy all of His Honour, Mr Justice Kevin Bell’s time but he and his wife, Tricia Byrnes, a senior solicitor herself, also managed to develop a high quality Pinot Noir winery and vineyards, with the wines improving almost every vintage. Although only a tiny property, there are a several releases. The ‘Garamond’ is especially highly regarded, but ‘Lodestone’ and ‘Hommage’ are also popular. There is an ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir, as well. These are wines much in demand – a situation that is only likely to increase. Corks, or more specifically Diam stoppers, are used, as opposed to the almost universal adoption of screwcaps, but I guess we can’t have everything. ‘Garamond’ Pinot Noir 2013 ($85) 95 points Fresh, with spices. Lovely raspberry and red fruit notes. Beautifully balanced, it maintains its intensity for a very long time. Promises an excellent future. Supple and delicious. It would be very hard to stop at a single glass of this wine. Very silky tannins, with underlying fresh acidity. A joy now and a wine that will be even better in time. Kooyong Part of a Pinot empire, which it forms with Port Phillip Estate, and under the gifted hand of Sandro Mosele, Kooyong is about to enter its third decade. In that time, it has established a well-deserved reputation as Pinot royalty. The stars of the range are the three single vineyard offerings – Haven, Meres and Ferrous – but there are numerous wines to love. They have some 40 hectares, the majority devoted to Pinot Noir with a significant section to Chardonnay. ‘Ferrous’ Pinot Noir 2012 ($75) 95 points A dense, complex Pinot with an array of characters – gunflint, warm earth, animal hides and dark berries. A gentle and receding oak influence. Finely balanced and delightfully aromatic. Juicy acidity, silky tannins and impressive length. A complex, yet elegant Pinot with time ahead of it. Much to like here. Main Ridge Estate A small but universally admired and much loved estate, Main Ridge Estate was one of the very first wineries in the district. Established by civil engineer and world’s nicest guy, Nat White, and his wife, Rosalie, back in 1975, it is a mere 2.8 hectares. All fruit used come from the estate, so it is immediately obvious that quantities will be limited. This wine is one of the very last made by Nat as the property has finally been sold. There will be a lot of winelovers with an eye on the place to see if standards are maintained but so far the new owners, the Sexton family, are saying all the right things. Mind you, if anyone has ever had a bad word about anything to do with this wonderful tiny winery, I’m yet to hear it. There’d be few critics not have it firmly ensconced in their Top Ten for all Australia. Choice of wine? It really could be pretty much anything made here. They never miss a beat. Chardonnay 2014 ($65) 95 points 100% wild yeast fermentation, malolactic and barrel fermentation in new and one-year-old Sirogue. This is an exciting Chardonnay. Offers WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 19

nuts, ripe peach pit notes, grilled cashews. There is depth and intensity with a wonderfully supple texture. Bright acidity sits under waves of flavours. Excellent persistence, indeed, serious length. This is youthful but offers an exciting future. Should drink well for a decade. already superb but they are only heading for greater heights in the coming years. And they are seriously good value. Moorooduc Estate Stunning wine. Has depth and complexity. Darker fruits to be found here. Spices, plums, black fruits, leather. A delightful mix of fragrant elegance and coiled power. Great length. Very fine tannins. Youthful. Terrific now, just fabulous drinking, but this will be a seriously fine wine with more time. Impeccable balance. This wine has some of that elusive peacock’s tail, the explosion of flavours on its finish. Love it. Dr Richard McIntyre established this very popular estate back in 1983, but it is in the last decade that it has really stepped up to its current status as one of the very finest wineries in the region. Whether that is because of the move to wild yeast fermentation, the greater involvement of daughter, Kate (an MW), a revision of grape sourcing, increased vine age and/or winemaking expertise, or a combination of these factors hardly matters. Top of their tree (top Duc, if you like) is ‘The Moorooduc McIntyre’. Follow this estate. The wines are 20 www.tastingbook.com ‘The Moorooduc’ McIntyre Pinot Noir 2013 ($65) 96 points Paradigm Hill Ruth and George Mihaly moved from successful careers in food and medical research respectively (their paradigm shift) to establish their small winery at Merricks. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Shiraz are all grown, but it is the Pinot Noir where the real excitement lies. One thing worth knowing about George’s labels is that he provides more information than possibly any other winery in the world. If you can think of a question about his wines, he has already answered it, probably down to several decimal points. Neither George nor Ruth have completely left their former careers behind – Ruth is undoubtedly one of the best cooks in the region and George can’t help researching every tiny aspect of his vineyard and winery. It all leads to better and better wines.

‘L’ami sage’ Pinot Noir 2012 ($65) 94 points The work done by George and his team have been rewarded as their recent wines show a finer texture, more elegance and better balance than ever before. This wine has some coffee grind and briary touches, spices and cherry notes. Good structure and silky tannins with some early complexity. The more time in the glass, the more it opened up to reveal glory after glory. Paringa Estate Lindsay McCall has operated Paringa for more than three decades and in that time, gained an international reputation for superb wines. Aside from 4.2 hectares at the estate, they have leased a further 13 hectares to cover requirements. There are several levels of quality, though the wines at all strata both excel and represent excellent value. One curiosity is that they make, in this adopted home to the Burgundian varieties, one of the country’s best Shiraz. This is a must-visit on any trip to the region. They understand the tasting process perfectly, making it a really pleasurable experience. Add to that, an absolute superb restaurant. A regional icon. ‘The Paringa’ Pinot Noir 2009 ($90) 96 points Paringa Estate may be even more famous for their Shiraz (partly because it is a stunner and partly because they have mastered a grape that has seen others struggle in this region) but they have a number of Pinots, all worth a look. This is the pinnacle of them. From a thirty-year-old vineyard (old for here), there is power and richness in abundance. Black fruits, spices, coffee bean and dark berry notes here. All kept well in check. Great length. Something special and with an exciting future ahead. Already exhibiting complexity and with more to come. Notwithstanding the power and concentration here, it retains surprising elegance. Stoniers Stonier Wines was founded by Brian Stonier, back in 1978, which surely grants it elder status, but it remains a vibrant, relevant and important winery for the region. And one continually making excellent wines, especially their various Pinot Noirs. With almost 70 hectares either under ownership (these days, ownership is with Lion) or under their management, they are one of the more serious players in the district. Stonier is famous for their annual International Pinot Noir Tasting (SIPNOT), which pits their own offering against the best

from around the globe, all tasted blind, of course. It is rare that their wine is not one of the cheapest in the tasting and even more rare that theirs is not considered one of the very best. KBS Chardonnay 2013 ($45) 93 points A style with 50% malolactic fermentation, this is very much a youthful wine. An appealing mix of mineral and citrus notes, especially grapefruit. Has some underlying power and richness and it maintains intensity throughout, with a long finish. A full-flavoured yet balanced Chardonnay. Like it a lot. Ten Minutes by Tractor If there was one word I’d associate with this curiously named estate, it would be ‘professionalism’. Everything is done immaculately. And the wines have never been better. Established back in the 90s, there are three vineyards totalling around 35 hectares. And, needless to say, they are around ten minutes by tractor from each other. The attention to detail that Martin Spedding and his team have exhibited for so long, in every aspect of viticulture and winemaking, is being rewarded with a long string of some of the 22 www.tastingbook.com most exciting wines, not just in the region but across the country. Toss in a superb restaurant with a wine list that many Three Starred establishments would bow down before and this is, put simply, one of our best. One small pea under the mattress – they have crossed to the dark side and do produce a Sauvignon Blanc. For me, a waste of prized vineyard that could be devoted to something so much more rewarding. ‘Wallis’ Chardonnay 2012 ($65) 96 points I find the Chardonnay from this vineyard to be slightly more elegant and refined than that from the McCutcheon Vineyard, but always happy to drink either. This offers oodles of lemon pie notes, freshly baked. Florals, notably jasmine. A wine that lingers beautifully. Excellent length, balance and intensity. Good future. seriously impressive Chardonnay. Love it. The fans of

FINE Collecting white Burgundy may scoff but given that the famous region has had so many problems over the last decade or two, why would anyone risk a small fortune on a bottle that is often little more than a pig-in-a-poke when you can have a wine like this. Great value. Yabby Lake Vineyard Serious winemaking and wines reside here. Established in the late 90s by Robert Kirby, this 50-plus hectare estate is a shrine to Pinot Noir, though of course, they do other varieties, and rather well, of course. Right from the early days, one of our best young winemakers (well, he was young then), Tom Carson, has been in control. As group winemaker, he also looks after their Heathcote Estate. Perhaps the ultimate accolade for this winery came recently, when, for the first time ever, a Pinot Noir won Australia’s most coveted wine trophy, the Jimmy Watson. The wine was the Yabby Lake Block 1 Pinot Noir 2012. Why this wine? Because 2011 was a rather ordinary vintage across so much of Australia and if you can make a wine like this in a poor year, it gives a glimpse into the massive potential of this producer. Mornington Peninsula ‘Single Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2011 ($60) 93 points The extra time has given this wine a slightly red/brown edge. This has an array of spice notes, animal hides, gamey touches. Some delightful complexity. A long, gentle and pleasing finish. This is one of the least ‘New World’ style Pinots you’ll find in the Mornington Peninsula. > WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 23

E N J O Y C H A M P A G N E L A U R E N T- P E R R I E R R E S P O N S I B LY.

“All my life I have sought the simplicity of a single line.” ANTOINE wATTEAU

The FINE Ambassadors' and High Commissioners' Table Our Fifth Anniversary Dinner Text: Ritu Singhal Photographs: SHIVAM BHATI 10 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Event ive years! Yes, that is how long it has been since the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine began to pave the path to change the landscape of fine wine in India – a very challenging task in very challenging conditions. The milestone fifth FINE Anniversary was celebrated just as it has been in the past – with grandeur and diplomatic pomp – the “FINE Ambassadors’ and High Commissioners’ Table” was co-hosted by H.E. Aapo Pölhö, the Ambassador of Finland to India, and Rajiv Singhal, Publisher of FINE Magazines, at the grand Residence of Finland in New Delhi. H.E. Aapo and his wife, Inkeri Siekkinen, have been very gracious hosts – they plan everything to the minutest detail. This year, they brought the very talented Peruvian chef, Enrico Tosso, to take charge in the kitchen. Chef Enrico, very painstakingly, created the sevencourse menu over several iterations that were moderated by our wine team (Arjun Sachar and Vipul Thakur, who also took care of all the bottles and their varying individual service requirements) to pair the trophy wines that were equally painstakingly selected by the participating Heads of Mission. In its fifth year, the “FINE Ambassadors’ and High Commissioners’ Table” showcased wine from Australia, Austria, Canada, Champagne, France, Germany, Hungary, Japan, New Zealand, Poland, Portugal, and Spain – a perfect dozen! A group of friends of wine and friends of FINE were privy to the pleasure of partaking in this feast. Our guests trickled in at the invited hour, and they were welcomed by the much needed and very refreshing Palliser Estate Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 from New Zealand. High Commissioner Grahame Morton told us that his grandmother bought land in the region, because it had very good grass for the sheep! Wine appeared only in the last four decades, WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 11

the wine as very light in colour, with a well balanced acidity and nice freshness that gave it rounded elegance. Ambassador of Poland, Tomasz Łukaszuk, presented the Jaworek Cha-re XIII 2013 from Poland. “It is believed that the Polish drink vodka. Yes, but only in the last 200 years. Before that, we were drinking our traditional honey mead. Businessmen like the owner couple of Jaworek decided to rebuild their heritage, which come from the middle ages.” The wine from Poland was powerful and it contrasted the subtle and elegant Japanese wine. as the area offered ingredients to make good wine – consistency, climatic stability, etc. Grahame described the wine as a “paddle and fist” kind of wine! Order was rung. As FINE Chief Executive, Ritu Singhal, welcomed our guests, it was a trip down memory lane for us. It has been fascinating to see FINE grow over the years, inspite of the regulatory obstacles that bumped our ride. “The FINE Anniversary is a testimonial of the support that we’ve been fortunate to receive – 12 Ambassadors/ High Commissioners are amongst us this evening. FINE is truly appreciative that six presenters – Australia, Austria, Champagne, France, Portugal, and Spain – have made it to the FINE Table five-years-in-a-row.” We sat down to our designated places. Two glasses of white wine stood tall in the strikingly simple settings – their identifier tags showed flags of Japan and Poland. Rajiv could not mask his excitement as he spoke, “No, we have not relaxed the participation criteria. These are rare wines and it is perhaps the first time that they are being presented in India. A very special effort was made to bring in these special not-tasted-before treats.” Asia was represented at the FINE Table for the first time by Grace Cuvee Misawa Akeno Koshu 2014 from Japan. Madame Patricia Hiramatsu, the Japanese Ambassador’s wife, said “Wine is very close to my heart. In Japan, some producers have revived the tradition of wine by replanting the indigenous Koshu vitis vinifera (that was found along the silk route) higher in the hills.” She described 12 www.tastingbook.com A very artistically plated Caramelised Fig and Goat Cheese Salad with Poached Beetroots was served to complement the very fresh and crispy Hofbauer Heiliger Stein Grüner Veltliner 2013 from Austria. Ambassador of Austria, Bernhard Wrabetz, shared the classic Austrian white varietal – Gruner Veltliner – from the region of Weinviertel where the vines have been growing for almost 400 years. Ambassador of Germany, Dr. Martin Ney, ignored the ubiquitous Riesling in favour of the very old and historical Silvaner varietal. The Juliusspital Würzburger Stein Silvaner Trocken 2014 comes from a vineyard along the Rhine in Wurzburg dating back to 1576. Dr. Ney fondly recalled that he had been pouring this wine since a long time (in Tokyo, Bangkok, New York and now New Delhi). He highlighted that the wine was bottled in a squat, green flagon – the "Bocksbeutel" – the bag that held the monks’ most precious books. The balanced acidity of this drink-young and somewhat dry wine paired well with the Seared Scallops (Zucchini Carpaccio for the vegetarians) with Passion Fruit. Ambassador of Champagne, Rajiv Singhal, rose to raise a toast to FINE with the quintessential celebration drink – Champagne! As we enjoyed Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or Brut NV, Rajiv took us through the lesser-known region of Aube where the Drappier family has made Champagne since 1803. 7th generation, Michel, follows a holistic approach to make wine – his wines are organic, natural and sulphur-free. Canada, too, steered clear of the national icon. For Deputy High Commissioner Jess Dutton, it was Tawse Laundry Cabernet Franc 2011 from the Niagara Peninsula (the largest wine growing region in Canada that started to grow vines around 5 decades ago). Jess eloquently described the wine, “It has a nose of raspberry and

This wine was served with the Strawberries Balsamic Risotto (Duck Magret with Spicy Ginger Strawberries for the non-vegetarians), a stunning and inspired plate. Chargé d’Affaires of the Embassy of France, Christian Testot, presented the other wine on this flight. Chateau Martin Le Haut St Estephe 2013 is from Medoc Superior – a Bordeaux blend that shows voluptuous fruit with well-balanced tannins and a mouth-filling flavour. A flight of three reds played out the plat principal – Grilled Lamb Rack with Edamame and Wasabi Mash (Brie Croquettes with Edamame and Wasabi Mash for the vegetarians). Australia selected a not-terribly-exotic classic new world available on the Indian market – Old Bush Vine Grenache 2014 from Yalumba, one of the oldest family-owned wineries based in the Barossa Valley since 1849. Australian High Commissioner Harinder Sidhu clarified, “What do we mean by old? At the time that Europe was growing wine, for unfathomable reasons, Australian Aborigines were not doing so. The origins of Australian wine lie in the early part of the 19th century. But, today Australia is the one of the largest exporters, including to India.” offered by the Spanish Embassy’s First Secretary, Emilio Contreras Benitez. “The name translates to Great Crown. To impersonate a seasoned wine aficionado, this wine has a deep cherry colour with a purplish rim, scent of cranberries and tobacco, with notes of spices.” FINE Event blackberry, notes of black cherry, ripe plum, white pepper on the palate, supported by generous yet firm tannins and a lingering finish”. Having just added to the tally of about 1 billion glasses of Canadian wine served annually, he hoped more Indians would drink more as he read a public service announcement, “Canada’s cool climate creates grapes naturally higher in ‘Resveratrol’, an antioxidant in grape skins that reduces fat and cholesterol in blood and protects against heart attacks. Drink Canadian wine – it’s good for your health!” Ambassador of Portugal, Joao da Camara, carried the Esporão Red Reserve 2013 from Lisbon to Luanda to New Delhi and was relieved that the wine lived to tell the tale. Joao revealed that he knew the farm in Alentejo on which the wine was produced, since he was a child – a farm founded in 1286 that stayed under the same family and stayed in the same limits for more than 700 years, till it was sold to a reputed and innovative wine making company. The wine showed a very dark deep red colour, had toasty notes, was fullbodied with well-structured tannins and was drinking well, but it showed even better ageing potential. Chef Enrico had saved his best for last – the Chocolate Sphere Tiramisu and Textured Alphonso was the pièce de résistance. Ambassador of Hungary, Gyula Pethő, had patiently waited his turn to show off the Erzsébet Pince Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2010. Gyula took us back in history, “Wines from the region of Tokaji in east Hungary were first mentioned in 1551 by Pope Julius III as the wine that belonged to the table of gods. And the European Royalty loved it as did the Aristocrats”. We savoured the “wine of kings and the king of wines” as a fitting finale to the splendid evening that show-cased the diversity of the world of wine. We thanked our hosts and vowed to return to the Finnish Residence as soon its makeover was complete – till then, the FINE tradition would be domiciled at a new location. Spain also went for a wine that was available on the Indian market – the Gran Coronas Reserve 2010 from the family-owned Torres was WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 13

The FineAmbassadors and High Commissioners The Hosts 14 www.tastingbook.com Australia Austria Harinder Sidhu Joana & Bernhard Wrabetz

FINE Event Canada France Nadir Patel & Jennifer Graham Christian Testot Germany Hungary Gabriele & Martin Ney Annamaria Somogyi & Gyula Pethő Japan New Zealand Patricia & Kenji Hiramatsu Carol & Grahame Morton WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 15

16 www.tastingbook.com Poland Portugal Maria & Tomasz Łukaszuk João da Camara Spain Canada Emilio Contreras Benitez Jess Dutton Australia Japan Nicola Watkinson Tomoyuki Kuwaharada

FINE Event Fine India Fifth Anniversary Tasting Notes Palliser Estate Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Region: Martinborough, New Zealand Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc Appearance: Pale lemon yellow colour Nose: Lemon zest, passion fruit, bell peppers Taste: Pretty dry, grassy, fleshy citrus, hint of pineapple, very lively Finish: Medium When to drink: Now Inside Information: Sauvignon Blanc has been the staple of New Zealand’s wine industry, in the last forty years. Martinborough is over the hill from Wellington and the Sauvignon Blanc here leans towards dry as opposed to the herbaceous nature of its Marlborough cousins. Traditionally, this is an area where stones and sheep co-existed but since the 1980s makes very good and consistent wines. The lees ageing in the wine adds to the existing richness. In a nutshell: Lazy afternoon cooler Grace Cuvée Misawa Akeno Koshu 2014 Region: Akeno, Japan Varietal: Koshu Appearance: Very light lemon with green hues Nose: Citrus, hint of ripe peach Taste: Nice acidity, fresh red apple, white stone fruit Finish: Pleasant and minerally When to drink: Now Inside Information: Grace was established in 1923. The indigenous grape, Koshu, is grown on the estates vineyards up in the hills of Akeno-cho to benefit from drier climate and more sunshine. The 4th generation, Shigekazu Misawa, and his daughter who studied in Bordeaux, give special attention to the Koshu – hence their name on the label. In a nutshell: Japanese elegance and subtlety Jaworek Cha-re XIII 2013 Region: South Poland Varietal: Chardonnay & Auxerrois Appearance: Straw yellow Nose: Lime, grapefruit, fleshy peach Taste: Stone fruits, hint of banana and white pepper Finish: Powerful minerality and nice acidity When to drink: Now Inside Information: Winnica Jaworek is registered as one of the 6 functional wineries in Poland. The Auxerrois grape is known from Alsace. The blend with Chardonnay is unique, and shows the winery’s expertise. 2013 was a good year, and the charming owner couple called it Cha-re because they were grateful that the very rainy year ended and the sun came out. The wine was awarded the best Polish Wine in 2014. In a nutshell: A surprise package with excellent wine-making Hofbauer Heiliger Stein Grüner Veltliner 2013 Region: Weinviertel, Austria Varietal: Grüner Veltliner Appearance: Lemon yellow Nose: White flowers, sweet lime & red apples Taste: Mandarins, nectarines with white peppery spice Finish: Lovely lingering freshness When to drink: Now Inside Information: Grüner Veltliner is the classic white grape of Austria – its flagship – even if its origins are not confirmed. The winery follows parcelised vinification – Heiliger Stein is the name of the vineyard, which dates back almost 400 years. In a nutshell: Enjoyable and refreshing WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 17

Drappier Carte d'Or Brut Juliusspital Würzburger Stein Silvaner Trocken 2014 Region: Franken, Germany Varietal: Silvaner Appearance: Bright lemon yellow Nose: Cut grass, mix of tropical fruits Taste: Somewhat dry, ripe oranges, banana, minerally, velvety Finish: Lingering with lively acidity When to drink: Now Inside Information: The 450 year old vineyard was founded by Prince Bishop Julius Echter of Würzburger, to fund the university and hospital (wine was a money making institution back then). The south facing vineyard has steep slopes and the soil structure creates an excellent capacity for storing heat. The wine is bottled in Bocksbeutel – the traditional flask shape green flagons. In a nutshell: German precision and robustness Tawse Laundry Cabernet Franc 2011 Region: Ontario, Canada Varietal: Cabernet Franc Appearance: Ruby red Nose: Raspberries, vanilla Taste: Red fruit compote, hint of black cherries, generous smooth tannins Finish: Lingering finish with slightly bitter aftertaste When to drink: Now - 2017 Inside Information: The grapes in this wine are sourced from the sustainably-farmed Laundry vineyard on the northern shore of Lake Ontario. The wine is produced under appellation VQA Lincoln Lakeshore. The winery is award winning, and uses some of the oldest known vines (that date back to the 1970s) in Canada. In a nutshell: Fruit forward and racy 18 www.tastingbook.com Region: Aube, France Varietal: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay Appearance: Light, straw-yellow Nose: Fresh, citrus, biscuity, yeasty, green apple Taste: Dry, crisp, balanced acidity, medium-bodied, apricots Finish: Medium-long, mineral, robust When to drink: Now - 2019 Inside Information: Not far from the Colombey-les-deux-Églises retreat of the French statesman Charles de Gaulle, Urville is the home of Drappier. Here, 8th generations of the family have worked the Pinot Noir on their 55 hectare estate – they believe that the grape “runs through their veins”. Drappier continues to cultivate the “other” forgotten grapes in Champagne and every single bottle of champagne (upto the 30 litre Melchizedik) is made without transfer. In a nutshell: Marlboro man of the Champagne Château Martin Le Haut St-Estèphe 2013 Region: Bordeaux, France Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Verdot Appearance: Deep red with watery rim Nose: Dark berries, violet, touch of spice and wood Taste: Stewed red berries, blackberry, hint of cinnamon Finish: Short but smooth When to drink: Now - 2018 Inside Information: Located in the heart of the Médoc Superior, the 16 hectare estate is currently owned by Jean-Marc Martin. The wines reflect the diversity of the region and show the authenticity of a family inheritance over three generations. In a nutshell: Easy drinking and approachable

Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache 2014 Region: Barossa, South Australia Varietal: Grenache Appearance: Light ruby with inky hues Nose: Strawberries, red cherries and hint of pepper Taste: Ripe red fruit burst, hint of spice, smooth tannins Finish: Medium with pleasantly refreshing acidity When to drink: Now - 2019 Inside Information: Yalumba in Australian Aborigine means “all the land around the land”. 1849, the family located in the Barossa and today Yalumba is the oldest family owned estate in Australia. The wine is from the Samuels Garden Collection, which celebrates lineage to first vineyard planted by him back in 1849. 2014 vintage was good as proper ripeness was achieved without compromising acidity. In a nutshell: Lineage in red Esporão Red Reserve 2013 Region: Alentejo, Portugal Varietal: Aragonês, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet Appearance: Deep ruby red Nose: Strawberry compote, dark cherries, smoky Taste: Full bodied, ripe red berries, blackberries, baking spices, vanilla, grainy tannins Finish: Long, dry with strong alcohol When to drink: Now - 2032 Inside Information: The region is very dry and very rough, with big plains and poor soils. All grapes are sourced from the 2000 hectare estate, which is on track to becoming 100% organic by 2020. Each grape is separately vinified and aged in new and used French and American oak before being artfully blended. In a nutshell: An exemplar of Portuguese master-blending Region: Penedes, Spain FINE Event Torres Gran Coronas Reserve 2010 Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo Appearance: Deep ruby red Nose: Strawberry, blackberry, hint of clove Taste: Black cherry, brambly fruit, bit of leather, grippy yet structured tannins Finish: Long and persistent with spicy nuances When to drink: Now - 2022 Inside Information: In the 19th century, many Spaniards went to the Americas in search of their fortune. A young entrepreneur returned to Spain from the beautiful island of Cuba to realise his dreams to tend his region of Penedes in Catalonia into a reference in the wine world. Success followed, and successive generations of the family have worked with many grape varietals, including some historically lost varietals. Torres retains its family-owned status. In a nutshell: Layered complexity Erzsébet Pince Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2010 Region: Tokaj, Hungary Varietal: Furmit Appearance: Bright gold Nose: Orange marmalade, honey, touch of cinnamon Taste: Candied peaches, butterscotch, ripe mangoes, a bit spicy Finish: Long with beautifully sweetness-acidity balance When to drink: Now - 2026 Inside Information: Erzsébet’s cellars date back to 1743 when they were occupied to provide the Russian court with Tokaj wines. The classification of Tokay vineyards into first, second and third class goes back to Matyas Bel in the 1720s. Aszú is the noble rot affected berries. Puttonyos denotes the level of residual sugar. In a nutshell: Dessert without cloying sweetness WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 19

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FINE Review Champagne: A History of Bubbles “Champagne: A History of Bubbles” is published by Editions du Signe, France. A native Champenois, Daniel Lorson, retired as the Director of Communications of the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne. He has collaborated with Erik Arnoux, who rendered the very expressive illustrations, and with Jean-Marie Cuzin, for the text of this 48 page hardback, that has been published in French and English. Daniel and his team have used a very unique, innovative, informative and entertaining comic-book style to present the story of “the wine of kings and the king of wines” to its readers around the world – how Champagne first came into being, its evolution through the centuries from still to “sparkling”, loyal patrons including royalty, the region and its people – the Champenois, protection of this worldrenowned appellation and the essence of Champagne. The story weaves around the divers who discovered a treasure of what appeared to be Champagne, in a wreck at the bottom of the Baltic sea, off Aland (an archipelago in Nordic Europe). Daniel plays on the curiosity of the dive team to identify the origins of their find through a series of dialogues between the diver, Kristian, and historians like François Fournier and experts like Elle Grussner, Daniel has drawn on his wealth of knowledge of his region to trace the history of Champagne. An extremely detailed and well populated time-line is presented in the book. It records the Romans planting vines in the 4th century Gaul; St. Remi recording vinegrowing in “Rheims” in his testament; the references to the wines of the region in the 12th-14th century; the slow pressing and fractioning that made vins gris; the occupation and pillaging of the region during successive conflicts; the birth of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne in the 17th century. Daniel does not circuit the raging debate around the origins of Champagne. He acknowledges the role of England in the making of Champagne, but for him the production of champagne was strictly a local invention. “The Benedictine monk, Dom Pierre Pérignon left a legacy of vineyard and wine-making practices (such as his strokeof-genius innovation that came to be known as blending), but the honour of inventing Champagne belongs to many different in Champagne for their contribution…” As the decree that allowed Champagne to be shipped legally was issued in 1728, Daniel goes on to share that champagne revolutionized drinking habits as its royal patrons discovered “Champagne that became an icon of good living and easy virtue”. According to Daniel, the pioneers in Champagne did not rest on their laurels, and focused on promoting their brands – the Moët family was recognized by successive regimes as a global ambassador for the wines of the region; Nicole Barbe Clicquot Ponsardin designed the riddling rack to restore the magnificence of the wine by removing the lees; Jeanne Alexandrine Pommery had bas-reliefs sculpted to transform a 65 hectare network of crayères into the ideal storage for champagne; Charles Camille Heidsieck travelled through the United States with his wines to make them so popular that customers in bars just asked for a bottle of ‘Charles’! The World Wars decapitated the champagne region and production suffered in the wake of acute shortages of all inputs, including manpower. The Comite Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne was established in 1941 to carry the region through these difficult times (which it did), engage in research and development to offer technical advice and take the responsibility of the protection of one of the first appellation d’origine contrôllée to ensure that any passingoff did not tarnish the impeccable reputation of Champagne. Daniel highlights the role of champagne as synonymous with festivity – for sports exemplified by Formula 1; christenings; weddings; inaugurations and umpteen such occasions. Champagne is an ode to French Art de Vivre! A full-offacts, very engaging and entertaining book. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 37

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FINE Champagne WINE of the DECADE Tasting THE BEST CHAMPAGNE FROM 2000-2009 Text: Essi Avellan MW, Juha Lihtonen Illustration: Minna Liukkonen I n April, the warm and sunny Spring day attracts most of the people outside in Reims. However, there is a group of people, who wait anxiously to get inside the conference room of Hotel de la Paix in Reims. This group of wine professionals and enthusiasts have gathered in the hotel lobby for a special champagne tasting. One hundred best champagnes from the last decade are waiting to be assessed and ranked in the first WINE of the DECADE tasting ever organized for champagnes. By the end of the day one of these great champagnes will be crowned as the Champagne of the Decade. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 2

WINE of the DECADE Tasting W INE of the DECADE tastings were created by the editorial team of FINE Magazines with a purpose to find the best wines by region from every decade. The first time this concept was launched was in Australia in 2013. Since then, it has been conducted in various places around the world in collaboration with the trusted professionals from the world’s largest wine information source, Tastingbook.com. In 2016, WINE of the DECADE was launched with champagnes from two different decade tastings. The first one took place in Reims in April from the first decade of the Millennium tasting. The second will be held in Helsinki in August from the last decade of the 20th century tasting. The tastings were initialized by FINE magazines’ and Tastingbook. com’s trusted professionals. The champagnes were qualified to the finals according to their most recent success in these professionals’ assessments and scores from various tastings during 2015–2016. All champagnes in the WINE of the DECADE tasting are tasted blind. The scores are given to wines according to pleasure that they deliver today. The balance in taste, vibrancy on palate and subtlety in expression are key factors in this assessment. The competition was very interesting as it included all vintage champagnes that had won the Best Champagne of the Year title in the past – Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 (winner in 2011), Taittinger Comtes de 3 www.tastingbook.com Champagne 2000 (winner in 2012), Charles Heidsieck Millésimé 2000 (winner in 2013), Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 (winner in 2014) and Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 (winner in 2015). Results The tasting was as exciting as the group in Hotel de la Paix had expected. The quality of the champagnes was impressive. The average scores of the top 50 champagnes hit as high as 93,59. The competition was extremely tight. The champagnes from number 1 to number 8 were within one point range and all champagnes were within a three point margin. The former winners of the Best Champagnes of the Year succeeded well in the ranking, but only two of them were found from the TOP 10 list. The glorious Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 (95.25 points) was crowned as the Champagne of the Decade whilst Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 (95.04 points) took the third position. Both were challenged by Krug’s single vineyard blanc de blancs – Clos du Mesnils. The vintage 2000 (95.10 points) was just behind Rare 2002 in second place and Clos du Mesnil 2002 (95.02 points) just behind Cristal Rosé 2002 in fourth place. It is noticeable that Krug, which is known for its slowly maturing, complex and aristocratic champagnes, succeeded in the tasting with its less complex 100-percent chardonnay champagnes, which reaches their drinking optimum earlier than other vintage champagnes by Krug.

FINE Champagne THE BEST CHAMPAGNE FROM 2000-2009 If the champagne was awarded for its consistency throughout the decade with the vintages, Dom Pérignon is the winner. There are more Dom Pérignon vintages included in the top twenty list than any other champagnes. If the scope is expanded to thirty of the best champagnes, then Cristal stands next to Dom Pérignon. The vintages in scope When it comes to best vintages of the decade, it is no surprise that 2002 dominates the top ten list. This vintage is not embraced as the vintage of the decade for nothing. It yielded the champagnes with great energy, crisp acidity and intense minerality. This implies to all 2002 champagnes on the WINE of the DECADE ranking. However, many of the 2002 champagnes are still partly closed and they will continue to grow and show their true potential in the next six to ten years. The second best vintage 2000 showed well in the tasting. Actually if the top fifty list’s average scores are compared between the 2000 (93.98 points) and 2002 (98.85 points) champagnes, the 2000 was a fraction better than 2002 with the difference of 0.12 points. It is the pleasant roundness and richness in vintage 2000 champagnes that charms a champagne lover. When these qualities are combined with the firm champagne style of Krug’s, the result is astonishingly delicious. This is the reason why Krug Clos du Mesnil 2000 succeeded in the ranking to second position and was ahead of 2002, which will presumably beat the 2000 in future when it evolves. In terms of vintage preferences, the vintages of 2002 and 2000 are followed by well-respected vintages 2004 and 2006. They are considered commonly as Champagne’s best vintages of the decade after the 2002 and 2000. The tasting result supports this belief. The champagnes from both vintages – 2004 and 2006 – did well in the tasting. The champagnes from 2004 show more extrovert than the ones from 2006 at this stage. This is the reason for dominance of 2004 champagnes to 2006 champagnes in the top thirty champagnes. While 2002, 2000, 2004 and 2006 vintages dominated the top fifty list, it is worth noticing that the champagnes from difficult vintages of 2003 and 2005 made their way on top fifty ranking as well. Dom Pérignon Rosé 2005 was respectfully ranked as the tenth position. These vintages yielded heavier style of champagnes and especially the rosés shares a touch of red Burgundy soul in them. The 2005 champagnes are firmer and more vivid in style compared to 2003 champagnes. Both vintages offer great champagnes to be combined with food. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 4

The CHAMPAGNE of the DECADE PIPER-HEIDSIECK RARE 2002 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 is a gem of Champagne. This fine and rare champagne was ranked as the Best Champagne of the Year in 2011 by FINE Champagne Magazine. Now, five years later it takes the glory of being ranked as the Champagne of the Decade 2000s. This lesser known fine and rare champagne has a unique and fascinating story. Piper-Heidsieck is known as a highly communicative, marketing-oriented champagne that caters to the tastes of the Hollywood elite. Its most renowned champion, Marilyn Monroe, famously claimed to start all her mornings with Piper. Champagne designs from acclaimed artists have always been a part of the Piper selection. The legendary goldsmith Carl Fabergé designed a bottle decorated with diamonds, gold and lapislazuli to celebrate the house’s 100th anniversary as far back as 1885. Since then, Piper bottles have been clad for instance Van Cleef & Arpels, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Victor & Rolf. In 2009, Piper-Heidsieck rekindled the decadent RussianParisian ritual of drinking champagne from the shoe–this time from crystal stiletto designed by Christian Louboutin. Since marketing tricks often reveal deficiencies in the quality of the wine, but that is certainly not true of Piper. At least not anymore, as the quality has consistently increased since Rémy Martin (now Rémy Cointreau) bought the house in 1990. Today, Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck are one company, but to distinguish between the two houses’ brands, they each have their own styles and marketing approaches. They are like a pair of brothers; the serious, mature, and charming gentleman Charles Heidsieck, and the silly, boyish and lively party animal Piper-Heidsieck. These differences are maintained even in the houses’ basic selections, for 5 www.tastingbook.com which Piper selects open, fruity, and light champagnes. The Piper style charms the most inexperienced of champagne lovers but will not bore even a seasoned palate. Despite its easily approachable style, Piper has a depth that develops during ageing. The Heidsieck name is undeniably confusing, as Champagne also contains a third representative: Heidsieck Co. & Monopole. All three houses stem from FlorensLouis Heidsieck. When he died, his nephew Christian Heidsieck took over the firm established in 1785, while another nephew, Henri-Louis Walbaum, started up Walbaum, Heidsieck & Co. in 1834. The son of FlorensLouis’s third nephew, Charles-Camille, went on to establish Charles Heidsieck. When Christian Heidsieck’s widow married Henri-Guillaume Piper in 1937, the estate was renamed Piper & Co, although it still sold champagne under Heidsieck name. The name Piper-Heidsieck was settled on in 1845. Although the Rare champagne was first produced in 1976, it has never found a place as a luxury champagne for the masses. It has not even been produced very often, as the only prior vintages are 1979, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1998 and 1999. The champagne changed course around the turn of the Millennium, as for a few years it became the nonvintage blend Cuvée Rare. Even though the Cuvée Rare was charming, it is significantly easier to market luxury vintage champagnes, and their ageing process is more practical to follow. Having spent a while in a dark suit, the Rare is again clothed in a very chic golden bottle. We hope that the gala dress, the top vintage of 2002 and its success will bring the Rare Millésime to the lips of more and more champagne lovers.

FINE Champagne WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 6

WINE DECADE Tasting of the The BEST CHAMPAGNE From 2000-2009 TOP 10 1 2 95,25p Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 Colour: Medium-deep lemon yellow Nose: Soft and sweet vanilla-laden, boosted toast and coffee nose with a gunpowder and fireworks edge Palate: Rich, intense and creamy texture, elegant, broad, silky and smooth Finish Crisp, persistent, long and lingering In a nutshell: Buy or not When to drink Ready to impress Buy or not When to drink All you want from great blanc de blancs You never regret for having at least a bottle of Clos du Mesnil in the cellar! Now–2030 Food pairing Grilled white fish with morrel sauce Final verdict: King's adjutant 4 3 95,04p Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 Colour: Pale peachy Nose: Beautifully subdued, pure and elegant, ripe peach, gentle spiceness and minerality Palate: Bright, fruity, intense yet refined, lacey texture and the softest mousse Finish Perfectyl long, vibrant and mouthwatering In a nutshell: Buy or not When to drink As elegant as champagne can get Yes, worth chasing for 2018–2030 Food pairing Bresse chicken with shallots and morrels Final verdict: Rolls-Royce of roses www.tastingbook.com In a nutshell: 2015–2025 Final verdict: Pure breed Krug Clos du Mesnil 2000 Colour: Medium-deep straw yellow Nose: Refined, green apple, toasty, vanilla, buttery with honeyed overtones Palate: Dry, creamy, gentle, complex, toasty, mineral Finish Lingering, focused and mineral with toasty complexity Buy all you can Food pairing Sauteed turbot fillet with brown butter sauce flavoured with lemon 7 95,1p 95,02p Krug Clos du Mesnil 2002 Colour: Medium-deep green yellow Nose: Intense, complex nose, minty, buttery and toasty Palate: Dry and crisp, broad, mouthfilling, energetic, firm Finish Long mineral aftertaste with toastiness In a nutshell: Concentration par excellence Buy or not Buy if you still can When to drink 2018–2026 Food pairing White truffle risotto Final verdict: There are blanc de blancs and then there is Clos du Mesnil

94,93p Dom Pérignon 2002 6 Dom Pérignon purity Buy or not: Absolutely yes When to drink Food pairing: Final verdict: 7 94,6p Nose: Touch of smokiness, cherries, toasty, complex, jasmin flowers Palate: Dry, round, vivid, multilayered, creamy smooth, wild strawberries and cherries Finish: Lingering with cherry flavours In a nutshell: Rich and elegant rose Buy or not: Yes, as you need to have DP rose before 2005 is ready to drink 2020–2030 Grilled cod fillet with hollandaise sauce When to drink 2018–2026 Food pairing: Grilled Guinea Fowl with cherry sauce and parmesan risotto Montrachet of champagnes Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 8 Palate: Dry, fresh and powerful, opulent, soft and rich with appealing cushiony mousse Finish: Concentrated, long and linear In a nutshell: In a nutshell: True beauty Buy or not: Whenever it is available 9 94,2p When to drink Lobster Thermidor Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2004 Colour: Light, refined, peachy Nose: Elegant and firm, with fragrant red fruit aromas, wild strawberries Palate: Dry and crisp, refined bubbles with silky texture, touch of red fruits, spices and apricots Finish: Very focused, refined and long finish In a nutshell: Pure and pristine Buy or not: If 2002 is not available When to drink 2022–2030 Food pairing: Nigiri sushis Final verdict: Buy or not: 2018–2030 Final verdict: Instant pleasure Queen of rose champagnes Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Colour: Moderately light, green yellow Nose: Fresh, buttery, herbaceous, green asparagus Palate: Dry, crisp, creamy, toasty, energetic, apples Finish: Long, intense, concentrated Nose: Rich, nutty, spicy and salty with charred aromas, evolving with lovely toasty nuances Food pairing: Final verdict: Aristoratic opulence 94,4p Colour: Medium-deep lemongold When to drink Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 Colour: Moderately intense, copper Colour: Bright, light, green yellow Nose: Concentrated, minty, toasty, buttery, lemon Palate: Dry, crisp and creamy, toasty, intense, concentrated, mineral, minty Finish: Long mineral finish with toasty and minty flavours In a nutshell: 94,67p FINE Champagne 5 10 So full and deep Go ahead! 2018–2028 Food pairing: Lobster pasta with herbed cream sauce Final verdict: Fresh and flirtatious 94,14p Dom Pérignon Rosé 2005 Colour: Bright, light, salmon red Nose: Fresh, vivid, pure, floral, red fruits, strawberries Palate: Dry, round, rich, vivid, elegant Finish: Lingering, rich, gently toasty, wild strawberries In a nutshell: Rich and sophisticated Buy or not: Buy for future When to drink 2025–2035 Food pairing: Saltimbocca alla Romana Final verdict: Champagne marries red Burgundy WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 8

WINE DECADE of the Ranking 9 The Best Champagnes 2000–2009 Top 50 Points 1 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 95.25 2 Krug Clos du Mesnil 2000 95.1 3 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 95 4 Krug Clos du Mesnil 2002 95 5 Dom Pérignon 2002 94.93 6 Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 94.67 7 Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 94.6 8 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 94.4 9 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2004 94.2 10 Dom Pérignon Rosé 2005 94.14 11 Dom Pérignon 2006 94.12 12 Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 94.1 13 Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Alexandra Rosé 2004 94.09 14 Charles Heidsieck Millésime 2000 94.08 15 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2000 94.07 16 Henriot Millésime 2006 94.05 17 Dom Pérignon 2004 94.05 18 Dom Pérignon Rosé 2004 94 18 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004 94 20 Louis Roederer Cristal 2000 93.97 21 Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 93.94 22 Dom Ruinart 2004 93.92 23 Billecart Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut 2006 93.89 24 Dom Pérignon Rosé 2003 93.84 25 Louis Roederer Cristal 2007 93.66 www.tastingbook.com

of the Ranking The Best Champagnes 2000–2009 Top 50 Points 26 Krug Clos du Mesnil 2003 93.65 27 Salon 2002 93.5 27 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2000 93.5 29 Krug Vintage 2000 93.46 30 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2002 93.23 31 Krug Vintage 2003 93.17 32 Krug Vintage 2002 93.1 33 Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2006 93.06 34 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005 93.02 35 Louis Roederer Rosé 2008 93 35 Louis Roederer Cristal 2005 93 35 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2004 93 38 Billecart Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut 2000 92.95 39 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2002 Magnum 92.86 40 Dom Pérignon 2005 92.8 40 Palmer & Co Vintage 2002 Magnum 92.8 42 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 92.72 43 Dom Pérignon 2003 92.63 44 Amour de Deutz Millésime Rosé Brut 2006 92.6 45 Louis Roederer Cristal 2006 92.5 46 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006 92.48 47 Bollinger R.D. 2002 92.36 48 Amour de Deutz Millésime Brut 2006 92.35 49 Henriot Rosé Millésime Brut 2005 92.34 50 Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs 2004 92.33 WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE Champagne WINE DECADE 10

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COLUMN ESSI AVELLAN MW Launch of Clos Lanson 2006 and full vertical 2006-2015 V ineyards have had to give way to the expanding city of Reims. But two clos, walled vineyards, still exist within the city boundaries. Pommery’s vast, 25ha Les Clos Pompadour guards the Notre Dame cathedral from Butte SaintNicaise whereas the 1-hectare Clos Lanson sits on the hill of Courlancy next to the winery, viewing the cathedral from almost the opposing angle. Pommery released its eponymous single-vineyard champagne in 2011 and now, this summer, Lanson will reveal its new cuvée. And a special launch it will be in many ways. Today, March 22nd, marks the 10th anniversary of Boizel Chanoine Champagne acquiring Lanson. One of the first remarks from the new owners was Philippe Baijot wondering why there was not a special wine made from this unique plot. Not needing further persuasion, cellar master Jean-Paul Gandon went on with creating one already the same year.The plot itself is remarkable with 30 meters of dry, highly friable chalk beneath, covered with 15 to 20 centimetres of topsoil. The walls and location in the city raise the temperature by some two degrees, allowing production of ripe, generous Chardonnay. Lanson records note the plot being planted since the 18th century but its today’s vines date back to 1962 and 1986 massal selections from Avize. Wine from Clos 120 www.tastingbook.com Lanson, that used to make its way to the Gold Label, has a special place in the hearts of Lanson employees, as the harvest is done entirely by them, every year. In addition to the bond it gives, there are also other benefits such as full attention to selection. On more challenging vintages such as 2010 the staff are given instructions of super selective picking. After all, the idea is to recreate cuvée Clos Lanson every vintage, as makes sense for a single-vineyard champagne. In the winemaking they added a new dimension to the usual Lanson recipy, oak barrels. ’The aim is to increase Clos Lanson’s expression with the use of oak, not really to bring an oaky character to it’, explains Hervé Dantan, cellar master at Lanson since 2015. The minimum 3-year-old oak comes from both Burgundy and Argonne, the local Champagne forest. ’Because of the oak quality but also because the Lanson family are originally from Argonne’, Dantan reasons. As for other Lanson premium cuvées, the malolactic fermentation is blocked, which contributes to the wine’s bright, expressive fruitiness and ageing capacity. The wine has indeed been a slow developer in the cellar. Originally it was intended for launch in 2014, but finally the wine appeared ready this spring. Having tasted the wine one year ago, there has been tremendous evolution since, build-up of richness, complexity and character. The 2006 was disgorged in December 2014 and Dantan promises one disgorgement per vintage and a

FINE Column minimum of 12 months’ ageing post-disgorgement. A balanced dosage was found at 3 g/l. Judging a wine based on its first vintage is never easy but Hervé Dantan smartly gave me to all the vintages laying down in the cellar to taste. To make sure I got the full picture of this organically tended (but not certified) vineyard, I was given a jar of honey from Clos Lanson (another first harvest!). How about the wine then? Worth the wait, definitely! As Hervé Dantan aptly describes it: ‘it is a generous chardonnay with a lot of flavour. But there is a return to the chalk at the end, enhancing its finesse’. Furthermore, the launch is timed perfectly to aid Lanson and its new owners and fresh cellar master to polish the brand and bring forward a more vinous side of Lanson. Clos Lanson 2006 will retail at about 195 euros. > TASTING (2014–2007 bottles disgorged one hour before tasting) 2015 base wine from barrel ++++
 2009 ++++
 Rich, ample Burgundian character with high-quality oak speaking and heaps of tropical fruit. Round, concentrated and oily-textured but finishing with welcome freshness and salty-mineral bite. Speaks loudly of the Clos character. The 2009 feels complete and ready to go in its openness, fullness and inviting character. Soft and creamy but supported by a fine acid line. 2014 +++
 A vibrant and energetic, leaner and tighter vintage with oak starting to marry well. All about freshness and purity. 2013 ++
 In a highly restrained state not expressing much. Tight and zesty with natural freshness and smoky-toasty characters. 2012 ++++
 All pieces at place with this one, ampleness and freshness in beautiful harmony. The texture has velvety smoothness and mineral salinity. This will develop into a superb Clos Lanson. 2011 ++
 This was a small harvest for Clos Lanson and clearly one of the most modest wines, positively elegant structure but a touch of the vegetal notes common to the year. 2010 ++
 2008 +++++
 This has layers and layers of complexity and fine, elegant depth. Lovely nervosity and mineral salinity. A stunning Clos Lanson. 2007 +++
 A more charred expression, coffee and cream. There is caressing texture and easiness to it. Not one of finest years but an open and welcoming one. Clos Lanson 2006 93 p (95 p.)
 Rich golden colour. Highly expressive nose with tropical fruit, smoky layers sweet brioche and spicy vanilla aromas and finely integrated note of high-quality oak. Voluptuous, round, fleshy palate that is mouth-filling at first until the fine, zesty acidity kicks in and lifts the palate. The finish is minerality driven, fresh and succulent, emphasizing fruit purity. Great intensity and length. This has so far been the smallest production of Clos Lanson, 5000 bottles. Creamy, weightly palate but misses the finesse and freshness of the minerality characters. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 121

champagnes Text: Ken Gargett Photos: Pekka Nuikki The most exciting movement in Champagne today must surely be the emergence of the small, quality-focused producer, revealing the intricacies of terroir in Champagne, yet Champagne is the kingdom of the blended wine. They blend vintages, varieties and the harvest from any number of vineyards, which may or might not be their own. House styles rule, not that there is anything wrong with any of this. It just seems a smidge disingenuous when suddenly we are also hearing of the glories of their ’terroir’. Most Houses are offering us no such thing. That is not to suggest the larger and the more famous Houses don’t dabble – Krug’s two Clos, Billecart-Salmon’s ’Clos St-Hilaire’, Philipponnat’s ’Clos des Goisses’ and Taittinger with their ’Folies de la Marquetterie’ are examples. 8 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Champagne with terroir WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 9

The house’s champagnes were served at Napoleon’s wedding to the Archduchess Marie-Louise of Austria Those who wish to seriously explore terroir in Champagne must look to the small producers and the growers. Fortunately, there has been an explosion of these wines in recent years. Inevitably quality can vary. Remember that a great many of the growers simply have one single plot and hence, if they travel the ’make their own’ road, it is automatically a single vineyard champagne, but that does not necessarily make it a ’Clos du Mesnil’. Single vineyard champagne means different, not necessarily better. Pioneers in Champagne A producer that has nimbly traversed the tightrope between traditional House and new wave grower is Jacquesson. This venerable old House, based in Châlons-sur-Marne, was founded in 1798, making it arguably the oldest independent Champagne House. The current owners, the Chiquet family, purchased the estate in 1974. Up until then, and indeed for a few more years under Jean Chiquet, it would be fair to say that they were an acceptable, if underwhelming producer. They were probably most famous for the fact that in 1843, Johann-Joseph Krug left to form his own House. However, Jacquesson has an important share in the evolution of champagnes. Adolphe Jacquesson worked with Dr Guyot in establishing a system of planting vines in rows and also patented the muselet, the wire cage, which holds the cork in place. Sons against father Jean Chiquet’s son, Jean-Hervé, who is taking care of management and winemaking, joined the firm in 1978, while winemaker brother Laurent arrived eight years later. Together, they took over from their father in 1988, but they only “got the green light” after ten years of “negotiations” with their father. One suspects that might be a euphemism for some rather forceful family debates. The brothers were keen to move from a champagne business to a respected Champagne House. 10 www.tastingbook.com The changes have been extensive. Under Jean Senior, the estate had 15 hectares with another 30 contracted, producing 450,000 bottles. Now, the estate has expanded to 28 hectares, but reduced the area under contract to just 8 hectares, which is strictly controlled and farmed by the brothers. The production is now at 270,000 bottles. From inferior to superior As Jean-Hervé says, when they took over they had the location and opportunity “to be world champions”. They were determined to do everything they could “to suppress compromise”. The early results were disappointing. They were making better wines but they lost their customer base. The wines were simply too different. But the brothers were not going to give up. Between 2000 and 2002, they revamped the range. Jean-Hervé describes the frustration this caused in the short term - “we were forced to talk about the wines we were selling, not making”. They faced a disadvantage that did not afflict many of the new wave growers who have emerged. “It is more difficult to go from bad wines to good than it is from zero to good”. The transition Part of this transformation was their work in pioneering single vineyard and terroir-based wines. Out went the traditional non-vintage, vintage and prestige champagnes and in came one blend – “the best we can make each year” – and four single vineyard wines. They had always made a wine from Avize fruit, a non-vintage Blanc des Blancs. In 1990, it was changed to a vintage wine, so as they could take advantage of the best years – for them, 1990, 1993, 1995, 1997, 2000 and 2002. Why no 1996? For JeanHervé, 1996 was a great Pinot Noir year, but it did not give him what he wanted for this Blanc des Blancs. It meant that in ’lesser’ years, this fruit would go to improve the ’one blend’. For Jean-Hervé, it was all about “re-discovering our own terroir”. The Jacquesson formula Jean-Hervé noted three simple rules under which they operate. First, you need the terroir – the old story of silk purses/sows’ ears. Next, be prepared to work hard. Finally, be prepared to sell anything that you don’t believe is of the standard you have established. Their progress in the vineyard can be seen by the fact that in 2001, granted a horror year, they sold 40% of the harvest. By 2010, another difficult year, this had dropped to 12%. Their vineyards are in the Grand Cru villages of Aÿ, Avize and Oiry and the Premier Cru villages of Dizy, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Hautvilliers. Jean-Hervé says that “inheriting a Champagne House made us frustrated growers”. This exploration of their terroir is one way of easing that frustration. The spark of change The spark that lit the fire occurred in the spring of 1998. They were working on the 1997 contribution to the next ’Perfection NV’ and they loved what they had. But they realised, it was “too Chardonnay” and that they would never be able to replicate it in future years – and of course, consistency is imperative when we talk non-vintage. So, relegating that fruit, they ended up with a wine that “was less good” and that was simply unacceptable to the brothers. The Rosé was ditched after the 1997, simply because they believed it was not a good wine, but at the same time, there was faith that they could offer a quality example, especially as they had what they believed to be a good site in Dizy with ‘Terres Rouge’. Part of the problem was the quality, or lack thereof, of the red wine used for blending, so they moved to the saignée method. Re-innovation of non-vintage champagne The ’blended wine’ is the 700 Series, with the first being ’728’ (based on the 2000 vintage), then ’729’ and so on. ’728’ was simply the ’technical number in the book’ at that time

FINE Champagne WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 11

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WHICH ENCOURAGES THEM TO SEARCH DEEPER FOR THE MINERALS THAT THEY NEED.” WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM FINE Champagne “THE WINES HAVE TO SUFFER, 13

– No. 1 dates back to a cuvee from 1898. Of course, these changes meant it was imperative to provide information to customers to allow them to understand the new direction – such as disgorgement dates, dosage, cepage, number of bottles produced, the process and more. This new wine, replacing the ’Perfection NV’, allowed the brothers to exhibit the very best from the vintage, free from the straightjacket of mediocre consistency. As Jean-Hervé says, “if you want consistency, sometimes you need to make a lesser wine”. He does not see it as a nonvintage wine as it does not have consistency from one year to the next – the first rule for the style. It was after the release of ’735’ that the decision was made to jettison those growers not up their exacting standards. They cut back from 14 growers to eight. Production also dropped by 20%. From vintage champagnes to terroir champagnes Then it was time to rethink their Vintage. The decision was made that 2002 would be the final ’traditional’ vintage release. From then on, they would release four discrete vintage wines, each a single-vineyard wine. They would only be made in very good 14 www.tastingbook.com years, limited in quantity to what each vineyard provided. They wanted these single-vineyard wines to offer their own personality and especially to reflect their individual terroir. In addition, the fruit must not be required for the 700 Series. Stocks are retained so they can offer ’Dégorgement Tardif ’ champagnes (those disgorged after an extended time on lees) down the track. This does give the wines an immediate level of extra complexity. Hence, we have the ’Champ Caïn’, a Blanc des Blancs from Avize. ’Champ Caïn’ was one of the lieu-dits previously used in their vintage Avize. The Jacquesson parcel, planted in 1962, is 1.3 hectares. Next, there is the ’Corne Bautray’ from Dizy. Planted in 1960, they have one hectare of Chardonnay. From Aÿ, there is ’Vauzelle Terme’, a mere 0.75 hectares of Pinot Noir, planted in 1980. Finally, also from Dizy, ’Terres Rouges’, from a 3.3 acre site, which makes Rosé Saignée. The four singlevineyard wines account for only about 10% of the production. The wines are held back for release – the 2002’s hitting the market in 2011 and the 2004’s in 2013. Only the ’Terres Rouges’ is released younger. Nothing but the best Inevitably, not all of the sites perform to standard every year. Jean-Hervé says that 2008 and 2009 were so good, they could make whatever they liked. 2010, however, was difficult and no single-vineyard wines were made. 2011 was problematic. Aÿ suffered from botrytis; Avize was good but not good enough; they were able to make tiny quantities of ’Terres Rouges’; but the star was ’Corne Bautray’ from Dizy. They waited for as long as they could “and it was perfect”. However, it was needed for ’739’ so off it went, though a barrel was kept for the library. 2012 was very good and 2013 even better, especially for Pinot Noir. Less so in Dizy. Jean-Hervé recognises the DNA, which runs through the vineyards on annual basis, but he says he is not looking for this to be apparent in the wines. He just wants the best wines possible, but he concedes that this form of consistency will be there. As he says, “the source is consistent, as is the taste of the two guys that blend. It does not change”. The results? Jean-Hervé says that they have at least made their two best customers happy – Laurent and himself. They have made a lot of other champagne lovers very happy as well. >

Jacquesson ’736’ 93 points Jacquesson ’737’ 92 points The base of this wine is the 2008 vintage with 34% reserve wine. 53% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier. Dosage 1.5 gms. Disgorged March 2013. If ever one doubted that there is no consistency between the various numbered releases, this wine and its successor is compelling evidence. This wine exhibits more citrus notes, is finer and with a little more drive and finesse. It is not as approachable as ’737’ but has a regal nature that is captivating. Excellent length here with much promise. A classy wine. The base of this wine is the 2009 vintage with 30% reserve wine. 43% Chardonnay, 27% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier. Dosage 3.5 gms. Disgorged August 2013. Rounded and ripe with an appealing softness. Stonefruit, nuts and figs sit over a minerally texture. Good length leading to a plush finish. Jacquesson ’738’ This wine had only been disgorged a few weeks early so Jean-Hervé was not keen to show it until it had time to settle, though he clearly believes it will impress in due course. It is a blend of 61% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Noir and 21% Pinot Meunier. The base wine is from 2010 with 30% reserve wines used. As usual, no filtration and the dosage is 2.5 gms. Jacquesson ’733 Degorgement Tardif’ 95 points Beginning with the 733, the brothers retained 15,000 to 20,000 bottles from each of the numbered series, for extra ageing, four to five years, on lees. The base of this wine is the 2005 vintage, a year Jean-Hervé likes more than many, with 22% reserve wine. 52% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir, 24% Pinot Meunier. Dosage 2.5 gms. Disgorged September 2013. The brothers will make the decision as to the order of the release of these wines at the appropriate time, meaning that some may spend even longer on lees. A similar program is in place for the later disgorgement of the single vineyard wines but it will not happen for some time. There is an immediate increase in the level of complexity. Nutty, rich, balanced and concentrated, with a lovely creamy texture. Notes of matchstick and orange rind. Serious length. It is hard to disagree with Jean-Hervé when he says that “this is how wine should taste”. FINE Champagne Jacquesson in a glass Jacquesson Avize ’Champ Caïn’ 2004 92 points The vines here were planted in 1962, a south-facing, chalky vineyard. It imbues the wine with an impressive freshness and verve. There is a talc, bathroom salts note lingering in a well-balanced wine. Hints of florals, citrus and stonefruit. Jacquesson Dizy ’Corne Bautray’ 2004 92 points From vines planted in 1960, on a southwest slope of deep clay and limestone over chalk, this wine was disgorged in February 2013. There is no dosage. The wine offers a bracing sea-saltiness, with power and drive. There is great length here. Also alluring notes of apricots. Jacquesson Dizy ’Terres Rouges’ 2008 90 points 100% Pinot Noir giving great depth of colour, deep cerise. Flavours of cherries, raspberries and warm earth. Medium length but the full flavours of this wine are the highlights. Lovely cleansing finish. The key to the sourcing of this wine was a village offering ripe Pinot Noir. Jean-Hervé says that he “wanted a wine that you could not say is Chardonnay. With too many Rosés, it is too hard to tell”. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 15

COLUMN KEN GARGETT Fine Cigars and Drinks A few years ago, I caught up with Richard Geoffroy, Chef de Cave at Dom Pérignon, at that most hallowed of sites for champagne lovers, L’Abbaye de Hautvillers, home to the famous monk. For me, Richard elevated a great champagne into a stellar one, although I suspect the world could have survived without Dom Pérignon 2003. He also launched their impressive OEnothèque program, and initiated extensive experiments, often in the most minute detail, into matching different vintages with different foods. Towards the end of our visit, Richard asked how long it was since I’d seen Dom Pérignon 1964. “Too long”, I said and a bottle of 1964 instantly appeared. It is surely one of the greatest champagnes of all. Later, as we made our way out to the car park, I asked Richard what he would serve with the 1964. For me, the wine was so close to the perfect champagne, I wouldn’t have let anything near it. Richard’s response left me stunned and may shock some – Partagas D4 – a Cuban relatively mild cigar! By coincidence, I was heading to Havana a few days later to catch up with the industry latest and do a little fishing, but there had been no mention of cigars until that moment. Matching champagne and cigars was something I’d been investigating myself, though in a very minor way compared to Richard’s intricate research. He works through all available Cuban cigars with each vintage of Dom Pérignon to 132 www.tastingbook.com find those most suited. In subsequent years, he expanded that to include non-Cuban cigars as well. Cigars have as many nuances and varying styles as does Champagne and inevitably, some combine far better than others. The principles are not all that different to matching wine and food. I’ve long held the view that red wines rarely work well with cigars, tannins drying out the smoke, often giving a harsh texture, while the wines seem less generous. That said, when friends arrive for drinks and cigars, they almost always opt for a red. In turn, when I visit them, that is what I am usually offered. Rum, some malt whiskies, cognac, and very often whites – all work better than reds. And champagne. I raised the subject with one of the most intuitive young sommeliers I’ve encountered, Nicolas Boise, a Burgundian sommelier from

FINE Column Restaurant Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain. He knows his stuff thoroughly and really is prepared to think outside the box, often pairing dishes with spicy beers, sakes or even just water, if it works best. test the theory. Nicolas prefers black teas and also red teas, because of their pure earthiness. He suggested avoiding lapsang souchong – we were on other topics before I could establish quite why. Coffee is also a popular pairing. We have a mutual interest in cigars, so I asked for his thoughts. His first suggestion, and obviously all this is predicated by exactly which cigar one is smoking as there is such a wide variety, was rum. He believes that a refreshing drink is usually the better match and considers that many cocktails work extremely well but again, which cigar and which cocktail could probably earn someone a Ph.D. Nicolas is also a fan of matching champagne, believing them “a great match”. His preferred fizz, the champagnes of Jacques Selosse. For those not familiar, it is a much richer, more complex style than many – a suggestion that made perfect sense. His next suggestion was tea. Mugaritz has a fantastic selection of teas and their white tea – No 20, Fujian Jasmine – was absolutely spectacular, as fine as any tea I have ever enjoyed. Sadly, indoors in Spain, there was no chance to His other favorites included PX sherries, and lovely old sweet Olorosos. I guess one could take that further to include Ports, Muscats, Tokaijs and fortified wines, in general. the most appropriate red, if one wanted head down that track. Finally, whiskies. He felt that the strength and powerful flavours of the peaty Islay malts were too much, dismissing Ardbeg and Laphroaig for those reasons. There we part company as they are among my favorite malt whiskies and with a powerful cigar, just right. He was very much in favour of Auchentoshan, a tripledistilled malt whiskey from Glasgow. Nicolas also put me on to the wonderful ‘whiskies’ of Michel Couvreur from Beaune that are sourced from Scotland but aged and blended in France! I quickly arranged a visit there – a fascinating if bizarre experience, but that is another story. > I asked Nicolas about reds. His response was that they didn’t even come to mind. He did say that the structure of pinot noir made it by far WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 133

Taylor’s – The ports from the First Growth Text: K e n G a rg et t Photos: Taylor’s & Pe kka Nuik k i If Ports were classified according to Bordeaux classification, Taylor’s would definitely stand in the First Growth tier – it might even achieve an Yquem-like solo aura. Its wines have been ranked highly for over a century, thanks to their aristocratic style, consistency and fine quality. However, the success of this highly esteemed brand does not rely exclusively on its fine products, but something that sets it apart from others. It is something that has been handed down from generation to generation – the pioneering spirit. 36 www.tastingbook.com

F I N E Ta s t i n g WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 37

The early steps Taylor’s, or perhaps more properly Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman, was founded in 1692 by Job Bearsley, a London wine merchant and innkeeper. Before this, there were only two British Port houses, Croft, originally founded in 1588, and Warre, esBaron Fladgate tablished in 1670. Originally, Bearsley’s company had a broad focus, not limited to wine. The “4XX” brand, that still adorns their bottles and branding, was actually an old wool mark. Bearsley’s sons, Peter and Bartholomew, turned the company’s business focus to wine. Peter was the first British trader to head up river for the top wines, while Bartholomew was the first Englishman to acquire an estate in the Douro, at Lugar das Lages, in 1744. The property was briefly used as a field hospital by Wellington’s army during the Peninsular Wars. However the company, which had been entrusted to an American citizen called Joseph Camo, continued to trade throughout the conflict. The brand is born The Bearsleys left the company in 1806, which then changed hands several times before Joseph Taylor joined as a partner in 1816. Within ten years, he had sole control of the company. In mid 1930’s, Joseph Taylor’s failing health forced him to plan for the succession of the company. He found reliable partners from British wine trade. The two men were John Fladgate and Morgan Yeatman, who were both merchants and loyal customers of Taylor’s. Fladgate and Yeatman took over the company after Taylor’s death in 1836. The two men honoured Taylor, when they decided to rename the company in 1838, retaining ’Taylor’ as the first named partner. The pioneer of the Port styles Since 1844, the operation has been a family affair. ­After the retirement of John Fladgate, the Yeatman family took sole control of the company. Frank Yeatman, known to all as ‘Smiler’, was the key figure of the company in early years of the 20th century. He ran the company, first with his brother Harry. Soon after Harry’s death in 1919, Frank’s son, Dick, joined in the Dick Yeatman 38 www.tastingbook.com

F I N E Ta s t i n g “Taylor’s family” ( from left to right) – David Guimaraens, Alistair Robertson, Adrian Bridge, Natasha Bridge WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 39

Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas train station Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas house company. He was a great asset to the company and Dick became the first Port maker to study viticulture at Montpelier in France. The company was strengthened by the addition of Frank’s nephew and Dick’s cousin, Stanley Yeatman. Together with Dick and Stanley, Smiler revolutionised the industry, notwithstanding the difficult times it faced. In the 1920’s, they introduced the concept of separating varietals in different blocks and carried this through to separate fermentations. They also explored single-variety plantings in the Polverinho vineyard, which nowadays covers part of the Vinha Velha section of Vargellas. The plantings were extended and so was the product range. In the mid-1930’s, the company released the first dry white port, known as Taylor’s Chip Dry. Before Smiler’s retirement, the Yeatmans added the esteemed Fonseca Port house to their portfolio. In 1949, Smiler finally stood down from the company, after completing an amazing fifty vintages. Dick and Stanley continued to revolutionize the Taylor’s Port selection. They were the first to commercialise the Single Quinta Vintage Ports with the debut vintage of Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas 1958. Taylor’s also led the Aged Tawny market by introducing the first 10 and 20-year-old wines. 40 www.tastingbook.com Taylor’s Ceo Adrian Bridge

F I N E Ta s t i n g Alistair & Gillyane Robertson The family affair In 1960, Stanley passed away and Dick took a full control of the company. He soon offered partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca, a descendant of the Fladgate’s, and to Huyshe Bower from the Yeatman family. After Dick’s death in 1966, his widow, Beryl, brought in her nephew, Alistair Robertson. Innovation must run in the family as credit for Late Bottled Vintage Ports (LBV) falls to Alistair, with the first release unveiled in 1970. The drinking public of the day was after a ‘Vintage Port’ that they didn’t have to age for decades, that didn’t break the bank and which they could drink without decanting. LBV Port ticked all the boxes. Today the control at Taylor’s rests with Robertson’s son-in-law, Adrian Bridge and David Guimaraens, who is the son of Bruce Guimaraens. Adrian, the Managing Director of the company, comes from the banking business and has a strong experience in international markets, after working for the company in both the UK and US markets, during 1990’s. Adrian has continued the tradition of innovation at Taylor’s by creating a new Port style in 2008, the Croft Pink. Croft Port was purchased by Taylor Fonseca in 2001, whereupon the name was changed to the Fladgate Partnership. The Yeatman’ in Porto in 2010, and more recently the Vintage House hotel in Pinhão in 2015 and The Infante Sagres Hotel in Porto in 2016. David Guimaraens, a sixth generation winemaker, is the Technical Director of the company. He has winemaking experience from California, Oregon and Australia. After graduating as an enologist from the Roseworthy Agricultural College in Australia, he joined in both Taylor’s and Fonseca winemaking team in 1990. The history of Taylor’s reveals their consistent and persistent endeavors to remain a step ahead of their competitors. It is possible that this may not have been so obvious had the company not enjoyed the benefits of more than 300 years of family management. All generations have benefited from the spirit which runs through the families, the spirit of leadership, innovation and ensuring that their Ports remain at the forefront of the push for quality throughout all markets. Combine this with their extensive knowledge of their own terroir, winemaking and marketing and the result is that Taylor’s have long been considered, and will remain, – the First Growth of Ports. > WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 41

Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas 42 www.tastingbook.com

F I N E Ta s t i n g Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas view 1930’s WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 43

The vineyards beh 44 The vineyards behind the quality Vargellas vineyard The quality of Taylor’s Vintage Ports derives from its well-established vineyards. Quinta de Vargellas, Quinta Terra Feita and Quinta do Junco vineyards have provided top quality fruit for the Taylor’s vintage ports for decades. The most famous of the trio is Vargellas, the fruit from which provides the backbone for Taylor’s ports. Vargellas potential was recognized as early as the late 1820’s, when the Carvalhos family, who owned a part of the vineyard, produced Single Quinta Port wine from the estate. The production eventually faded due to the seriously reduced yields, subsequent to phylloxera. The various individual parts of the Vargellas vineyard were amalgamated and finally purchased by Taylor’s in 1893, rather courageous given that this was the time that phylloxera was raging through the country. Vargellas is considered responsible for the alluring fragrances, sinewy tannins and delightful elegance found in Taylor’s VP’s. Vargellas, a 164 hectare estate with 68 hectares under vines, is located in the far distant parts of the Douro, is key. It is a north-facing amphitheatre, situated well above the Douro River. These terraces have been classified by UNESCO as World Heritage. Plantings at Vargellas are devoted to approximately one-quarter each of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca and Tinta Roriz, with the rest a mix, especially Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao and Tinta Amarela, along with some thirty other permitted varieties. In years that don’t quite make Vintage Port quality, a single quinta vintage port is often produced. In what Taylor’s consider to be the very finest years for the Vargellas vineyard, they make a few hundred cases of Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage (VVV) Port in the best vintages. The most recent ones have been 2011, 2009 2007, 2004, 2000, 1997 and 1995. Only a tenth of the estate’s vines qualifies as Vinha Velha, consisting of five parcels from the oldest parts of the vineyard. The vines age range between 80 to 120 years. The production of Vinha Velha Vintage Ports forms less than 1% of the production of Vintage Port. In 1999, Taylor’s purchased the 46-hectare adjoining property, Quinta de Sao Xisto. It went under a program of replanting and is now in full production. www.tastingbook.com

Terra Feita vineyard Quinta do Junco vineyard Terra Feita, 116 hectares, is set in an amphitheatre, back in the Pinhao Valley. It has 62 hectares producing fruit. Although only purchased around 40 years ago, in 1974, it has provided Taylor’s with quality fruit for a very long time. The 1757 classification of Douro estates rated this at the very highest level. Here is where the power, richness, depth, fullness and concentration of berry flavours, found in their VP’s, is sourced. Vines are mostly Touriga Francesca and Tinta Roriz, with some Touriga Nacional. Quinta do Junco, located not far from Terra Feita, was purchased in 1997. 48 hectares are currently planted and they are increasing that over time, as the entire property consists of 82 hectares. 15 hectares are very old vines. It was awarded “feitoria” status as far back as 1761, the highest classification for vineyards at that time. At this stage, it only provides a small contribution to the VP’s, though this is increasing. Fruit from here is described as “massive in scale” and adds to the power and structure of the wines. The vineyard is dominated by Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca and Tinta Roriz. This vineyard differs from most of those in the region by including some vertical rows, with the traditional terraces. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM F I N E Ta s t i n g hind the quality 45

Taylor’s Tasting Experience by Ken Gargett Nine Decades of Taylor’s Vintage Ports from 1924 to 2007 Leave it to great wine to lift the spirits Brisbane had a tough year. Cyclones up north and the devastating floods, footage of which apparently made its way around the globe. Even the tiny, bucolic creek that trickles lazily past my house, home to all manner of birds, tortoises, water-dragons and the occasional fat happy carpet python, turned into a raging Himalayan-esque torrent, carrying 70-foot trees past my balcony like matchsticks. Fortunately, it drew the line at coming any higher than under the house, just, but the ‘professional wine storage’, holding some of my cellar, in another, low-lying, part of the city was not spared. We got to it quickly, cleaned and relocated the bottles, immediately the waters receded. Bar some label damage – the more expensive the wine, the cheaper the label? – things could have been much worse. What was especially irritating was I had been about to pull out one of those ‘special’ old bottles (how often do we keep them just a fraction too long?) to share with some friends, just before the deluge. Unlike Noah, I had only a single of this wine on board – 1948 Taylor’s Vintage Port. Purchased it from a wine merchant friend in the early 1980’s, just before heading to the UK to study and work, now was the time to open it with him and a few friends. Fortunately, it looked to have come through as unscathed as possible (it already evidenced a small ullage). The rest of my ports had been stored elsewhere. From a single acorn, as they say in the classics. I had a few other vintages and so, a small, very small at this stage, vertical was born. Friends, and friends of friends, quickly ‘volunteered’ for the day, and offered whatever may have been lurking in their own cellars. Word spread interstate. An old mate, Iain Riggs, in charge of Brokenwood in the Hunter Valley for decades, one of our leading show judges and a stalwart of the annual Len Evans Tutorial, was on board. So too, Peter Godden from the Australian Wine Research Institute. As was the man who has surely forgotten more about fortifieds than the rest of us will ever know, James Godfrey, gatekeeper for the fabulous Seppelt fortifieds, including the extraordinary 100-Year-Old Para Tawny, and so much more. Toss in a few 46 www.tastingbook.com

F I N E Ta s t i n g distributors, retailers, auctioneers and fortified fanatics and the day was taking shape. The event would be held at Ortiga, surely Australia’s most exciting Spanish restaurant (it was as close as we could get, Portuguese establishments being a little thin on the ground in this neck of the woods – sadly, it was shortly afterwards that Ortiga was reincarnated in a less exciting form with alternative ownership, which would open just for us. More importantly, owner Simon Hill understands and loves wine – and still hosts our major tastings at his new establishment. The tasting would be in the morning, followed by a lunch with everybody contributing ‘something decent’ – another story, especially as one of our number let it be known that with this number, magnums were de rigueur. Anyone who has anything to do with the Aussie wine industry, amateur or professional, will know just extraordinarily generous it can be. The week before the tasting, I received two calls. It seems Riggs, off his own bat, had tracked down some contacts in the UK and taken possession of a 1935 and a ‘Believed to be’ 1955. Another friend, visiting New York, had happened to walk past a wine auction, as you do, just before a 1924 Taylor’s went under the hammer. He thought it would be nice to include it. We should have been 17 in number but a family illness ruled one out, though that did not stop him from insisting we include his bottle of 1966. So, 16 vintages and 16 tasters, with at least one port from every decade since the 1920’s. Sixteen winelovers inevitably had sixteen varying opinions on exactly when everything should be decanted and what order they should be served, though it didn’t take much to force a consensus. Young wines were decanted the previous day, ‘middle-aged’ at varying times that morning and the old, but hopefully not decrepit, shortly before the event. For most, it worked very well. As for brackets, four of four seemed ideal. And definitely old to young. So first up, 1924, 1935, 1948 and the ‘55 (though the 1924 was served at the end of the bracket as the day’s mystery wine – the identity of all others being known). 1963, 1966, 1970 and 1977 were next. 1980, 1983, 1985 and 1994 the third grouping. Finally, 2000, 2003, 2007 and the 2007 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha to conclude. There were a few vintages, especially the 1992, we would have liked to include, but we failed to locate any. Removal of corks, most had held up wonderfully well, did reveal one small problem. Our ‘Believed to be’ 1955 was in fact, a 1960 Crofts. We still chose to include it and were pleased we did, as it highlighted what different styles the two Houses represent. There had been a minor drama when the planned 1970 had developed a slightly weeping cork a few days before the event, but that worked well in the end. A replacement was found, which was in wonderful condition, and a few of us had a small preview of glories to come, as the ’weeping’ bottle drank rather well. Otherwise, everything seemed in first class condition. They say that Taylor’s is the Latour of Vintage Port. Surely, they have it wrong. Surely, Latour is the Taylor’s of Bordeaux. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 47

Taylor’s Vintage Ports First Flight 1924 Taylor’s Vintage Port 98 points 1 ST An amazing wine. Such grace for such a venerable old port. Fully alive, though obviously very mature. Still offering some concentration and complexity. The enticing fragrances were of old teak and cedar and with an underlying hint of an old malt whisky. Although well into its tertiary cycle, it seemed to suggest that this vintage was one that enjoyed ripe fruit. Soft and chocolatey on the palate. Had serious length. If one had the smallest of quibbles, it was perhaps a fraction rougher right at the finish than the very best, but just a beautiful wine. One assumes that any remaining bottles will vary (that old saying about there being ‘no great old wines, just great old bottles’, should surely be just ‘… great old corks’?) but on the evidence of this, 1924 must have been a very fine vintage. Bottles from auctions obviously carry a ‘buyer beware’ risk, but this one must have been lovingly cared for throughout its life. Served last in the bracket as a ‘mystery’, no one went close to the correct vintage, most opting for something in the fifties, a few speculating forties. Of course, a cynic may suggest that may have been influenced by its position in the bracket but it was a wonderful wine by any standards. 48 www.tastingbook.com 1935 Taylor’s Vintage Port 100 points We’d done the requisite research in the preceding days, so to discover that Michael Broadbent had dubbed this the “best 1935 and one of the greatest ports of the century”, several times awarding it 6 stars, out of 5, could it ever match the hype? Could it, what! And how. More than a few of us felt it as good a vintage port as we’d ever seen, or were ever likely to see. Could all remaining bottles possibly be this good? As it was the first cab off the rank, there was a feeling that we may have peaked early. Supple, a cuddly plushness, layer after layer of everevolving complexity, impeccably balanced. This was still fresh and extraordinarily alive. Notes of dark chocolate, a hint of spice, gentle florals, a pleasing sweetness with a clean brightness that would have impressed in a port half its age. Perhaps what excited most was the neverending finish – it was so long. Yes, it will undoubtedly live for some time yet but why would you let it? A monumental vintage port by any standards.

F I N E Ta s t i n g from 1924 to 2007 1948 Taylor’s Vintage Port 94 points Second Flight Ullage took the level of this bottle to just south of the neck. Again, Broadbent’s comments, that the ‘45 Taylors was ‘head and shoulders the best ‘45’, … ‘but the ‘48 was better’, describing it as ‘one of the finest ports ever made’ and ‘the loveliest, best-ever vintage of Taylor’s’, set the bar at a very high standard. Quite a few attending had enjoyed it on several occasions previously. All raved. This time, as glorious as it was, it exhibited its age. Perhaps, despite our best attempts at denial, the floods had shaken it up a little more than we thought. It was clearly a very old wine, a pale amber colour, but still with considerable complexity, attractive honey notes, beeswax and caramel. Best drunk soon on this evidence. A lovely old wine that may have appeared even better had it not been in such illustrious company. 1963 Taylor’s Vintage Port 96 points 1955 Taylor’s Vintage Port (aka 1960 Croft) A completely different style. Much more of a brick red colour than seen to date. Lots of red fruits and berry notes with soft chocolate. Ripe and cuddly. Not the structure of the Taylor’s. For what it is worth, probably quite fabulous on any other occasion. Rather like someone had let loose a large friendly mongrel puppy amongst a group of canines with the finest pedigrees. 2 ND One of the most famous of all port vintages and this was a superb example. Originally purchased by a wineloving doctor from the north of England, it had spent the past quarter of a century in my (dry) cellar. It offered complexity, concentration and power. This is richly flavoured, with very fine tannins and a flick of acidity. As with all the best of this tasting, it exhibited a fine, formal structure and was exceedingly long. Supple, with a hint of spiciness. This bottle may not have carried the intensity of flavour for the full length of its finish but it was a very popular wine on the day and surely has years ahead of it. 1966 Taylor’s Vintage Port 93 points A Berry Brothers bottling. A lovely, mature and surprisingly concentrated vintage port. Notes of teak, matchsticks and beeswax. Nicely balanced and pleasingly supple on the palate. From the bigger and slightly cuddly end of the Taylor’s spectrum. More casual attire than black tie. Ideal for drinking now. The end is not yet nigh but why wait? WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 49

Taylor’s Vintage Ports 1970 Taylor’s Vintage Port 97 points This had always been a personal favourite amongst vintages, with the Taylor’s, inevitably up with the best. And this bottle didn’t let us down. Quite the contrary – one of the ports of the day. A cracker VP. Density and finesse – and what a fine line that would seem – handled with ease here. Certainly, there is maturity and complexity and yet, for a wine of forty plus years, it is amazingly fresh and youthful. Alluring fragrances and gentle sweetness. Chocolates, florals, caramel, spices, dark cherries. Again, great length. The merest hint of spirit evident but it doesn’t detract. The perfect of example of why Taylor’s has been dubbed ‘the Latour of Ports’. This has years ahead of it. A classic. More than any of the other ports from the last half century, this revealed the DNA link to the 1924 and 1935. 1977 Taylor’s Vintage Port 96 points Another much lauded vintage. Although decanted around five to six hours before the tasting, this was the port that most obviously cried out for more time. It continued to evolve and improve in the glass. If opening another, I’d not hesitate to do so 24 hours before intended drinking. Concentration, depth of flavour and underlying power were the hallmarks here, with ever-increasing complexity. Hints of spice, florals, black fruits, warm earth, a touch of chocolate syrup. Firm tannins. This is certainly not wanting for structure. It really would benefit from yet more time. Initially, it seemed to be 50 www.tastingbook.com lacking a fraction of intensity right at the very end, but it continued to build over time. One very much suspects that had we decanted it much earlier, it would have been even more impressive. Third Flight 3 RD 1980 Taylor’s Vintage Port 92 points If any port in the line up was likely to struggle, the smart money may have found a home here. The smart money may have been disappointed. A lovely surprise and a joy to drink now. Quite spicy and powerful, it drinks well above vintage reputation. Intense, dense, ripe and with quite fine tannins. Good length. Other reports suggest it is sturdy rather than spectacular and more than likely the best of the vintage. That seems accurate. It may not have quite the structure or the potential longevity of wines like 1977 or 1970, but don’t let that stop you. 1983 Taylor’s Vintage Port 88 points Anecdotal reports suggest that yet again, Taylor’s have claims on the best of the vintage, though as far back as 1998, Broadbent declared that he was not impressed and thought it not going further. Others have been kinder. For us, good but hardly great. Mature and with a degree of concentration, there are a mix of ripe and spice notes. Seemingly sweeter than some. Certainly

F I N E Ta s t i n g from 1924 to 2007 nothing like the length of the better wines. In truth, if this is the pick of the litter, then 1983 is a less than inspiring year. last a century. It has that gorgeous Christmas cake note, often seen in Rutherglen muscats but none of the ponderousness sometimes associated with those wines. Shame that it was such a low yielding vintage. 1985 Taylor’s Vintage Port 95 points Reports suggest that it is not dissimilar to the 1992, which made the absence of that wine all the more frustrating. A wonderful vintage port, surely a classic Taylor’s. Enticing complexity as quite spirity notes move to tobacco leaf then dark fruits, a hint of black cherry and then a pleasing but balanced sweetness. More fragrant than most. Classic Taylor’s in that we have the fine tannins, a tight firm structure, good acidity and balance. Certainly has moved beyond the primary stage, as one would expect, but plenty of years ahead of it. 1994 Taylor’s Vintage Port 98+ points One of the most highly lauded vintage ports of all time, it aroused much anticipation. Indeed, the Wine Spectator had declared it their ‘Wine of the Year’ in 1997 (with the ‘94 Fonseca), awarding it 100 points, and suggesting it might be the greatest Taylor’s ever made. In time, it just might be, though the sad consensus was that few of us would be around to confirm, such is its future. What a stunning, brilliant wine. The features are surely the amazing length of flavour and the way it maintains its intensity; the incredible youth; its wonderful complexity with the promise of even more to come; and the power. A rich, dense wine with impeccable balance, there are mouth-coating tannins. Flavours of blackcurrants, spice, ripe black cherries, dark chocolate and an intriguing floral note. A huge port and one that could Fourth Flight 4 TH 2000 Taylor’s Vintage Port 96 points It would be easy for anyone, reading these notes and scores, who has not enjoyed a range of Taylor’s VP’s in recent years to think that one simply got vastly carried away. The reality is that this tasting confirmed, not only that Taylor’s has been a shining light in the port industry for decades, but that they are in superlative form in recent vintages. It was all a bit deja vu. Ho hum, yet another stunner. This port had a delightful balance of concentration and opulent plushness. Rich, dense and powerful, yet softer than most, it exhibits the trademark length. There is a degree of sweetness but kept well in check. Florals, dark berries, violets and young leather, this has many, many years ahead of it. 2003 Taylor’s Vintage Port 90 points Inky colours and a pleasing fragrance. This has overtones of cassis, leather, spice and blackberries, with lead pencil WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 51

Taylor’s Vintage Ports and cigar box notes. Hints of plum pudding. Young, tannic and powerful, this vintage has the House’s typical classic structure and good length, though certainly not the persistence of the pinnacles. This is a fine port but probably suffered from the company it kept on the day. On its own, it would earn plaudits that were rather reluctantly forthcoming here. And those may arrive in the years to come as it surely has a long future ahead. 2007 Taylor’s Vintage Port 96+ points The seriousness and formality of this very young port is immediately apparent. A massively powerful wine with obvious weight and concentration. Intense blackfruits and floral notes. Dried fruits, kid leather, chocolates and the tobacco leaf of a fine cigar. It may seem odd but even through the sheer force of this very young wine, it is evident that there is complexity building and an elegance. Knife-edge balance, even though there is a hint of spirit still working itself into the wine – its youth makes this unavoidable – and solid, mouthcoating tannins are all part of the package. Through all this emerges a scintillating vibrancy. Anyone in any doubt as to the quality and potential of the 2007 vintage from the Douro need only take a sip of this wine to dismiss those concerns. It is destined to be seen as one of the greats. This port could be anything but it will be left to the next generation to find out. As approachable as it is at this early stage (far more so than the great vintages of the past), to drink it now would be to prevent the evolution of something special. 52 www.tastingbook.com 2007 Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha 99+ points If the “standard” ‘07 VP from Taylor’s is something special, this is even more so. Just how good can port get? 3,600 bottles is all that these ancient vines yielded in this outstanding vintage. It is not cheap, but do what you can to try it. This raises another issue – why on earth are wines like this not priced on a par with the finest First Growths and Grand Cru Burgundies, but that is for another day. Black and blue fruits, cassis, floral fragrances, cigar box notes (think Partagas 8-9-8’s), the finest dark chocolate and black cherries. Balance is unquestioned. I can’t think of a more massive wine which, bizarrely, seems to exhibit a formal elegance. Equally perplexing is that there is already noticeable complexity developing. Inevitably, there are extensive tannins, but they do not intrude in any way. The integration of tannins and acidity, with the intense fruit, seems so seamless as to be an illusion. This is a wine that, in truth, is far too young to drink now, but so balanced, so delicious, that it would be hard to condemn those that do. Just know what you are missing. One for the grand-kids. It has the length of flavour, never flagging, that is more often associated with the great Rutherglen fortifieds. Classic Taylor’s with a twist, this is a stupendous, brilliant vintage port that has decades ahead. The most remarkable young VP I have ever seen. The score simply reflects that, with time, it should get even better. >

F I N E Ta s t i n g from 1924 to 2007 WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 53

Alko 562857; 377,10 € (0,75L)

FINE SHERRY Equipo Navazos text : K en G arget t photos : Equipo Navazos In any list of contenders for the most exciting winemaker on the pl anet, a S herry House seems an unlikely inclusion. Consider then that they are more negociants than makers, that one of the two partners is a Professor of CRIMINAL LAW, rather than a winemaker, that it is more the project of friends than a true Sherry House and that they have been in existence for JUST a decade. ‘Unlikely ’ is a gross understatement. Yet, Equipo Navazos has made such an impact on winelovers around the globe that they have done the impossible – made Sherry the latest trendy hot thing. Just take a look at how many times these wines appear on the lists of the world’s best restaurants. Then when you hear that Sherry is compared to Montrachet and a producer described as the ‘DRC of Jerez’, it is time to take notice. Of course, for some, Sherry will always remain the stuff of park benches and great aunts. Yes, my dear old great aunt swore she never touched a drop of alcohol, but always had a bottle of Sherry in the cupboard, “for medicinal purposes only”. However, others know just how glorious the best Sherry can be. And make no mistake, these are the best. Although few people have sampled 102 www.tastingbook.com these wines, they are largely responsible for the spike in international interest in Sherry. A creation of the brand In late 2005, three friends – Eduardo Ojeda, the technical director at Grupo Estevez (better known to Sherryphiles as Valdespino), Jesús Barquín, Professor of Criminal Law at the University of Granada (and winelover and occasional contributor to wine magazines) and historian Álvaro Girón – were visiting a small bodega in Sanlúcar, Sánchez Ayala, when they were introduced to a number of butts of an amontillado

FINE Region Jesús Barquín WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 103

Valdespino archive that averaged more than three decades of age. They immediately knew it to be exceptional. Certain there would be enough interest among their Sherry-loving friends, they convinced the owner to sell them a butt. Actually, as the butts had spent the last twenty years “without running” – in other words, without being refreshed – they purchased two, as evaporation had reduced them to less than half full, though Jesús confessed that the level of interest meant two were necessary. It was quickly financed by thirty or so friends from around the world and they shared the 600 bottles of what became ‘La Bota de Amontillado No 1’. The guys called their partnership, ‘Equipo Navazos’ – ‘Navazos’ meaning a small garden on a sandy shore. The Ayala operation came from an area of land that had been reclaimed from the local estuary – hence, Navazos. The wine was named ‘La Bota de Amontillado’ because they felt that the aromatic intensity of the wine would make any guest feel as though they were trapped inside a cask of a great Amontillado, as happened in Edgar Allan Poe’s famous tale, ‘The Cask of Amontillado’. ‘Le Bota de...’ meaning ‘the cask of...’ and bottled as such. The star is born They were aware that these butts were hardly the only sleeping treasures, lying dormant around Jerez and the neighbouring towns. That they had 104 www.tastingbook.com awoken some serious interest and excitement amongst their friends quickly became evident as they were receiving calls from as far afield as Germany, the United Kingdom and the United States. The following year, they tracked down and bottled two more exclusive Sherries, just 800 bottles of each – La Bota de Fino “Macharnudo Alto” No 2, from Bodega Valdespino and La Bota de Pedro Ximénez “De Rojas” No 3, from Bodega Pérez Barquero. They were never going to keep such scintillating wines secret and word soon got out. Some of the friends were retailers and tiny quantities started to appear on their shelves. A further six releases, of between 200 and 2,500 bottles, followed in 2007, with their La Bota de Palo Cortado No 6 – the first to be formerly commercially released, though in reality, it was 2008 before there were genuine commercial releases. At this stage, they were so unprepared for the impending success that they had not even formed a company. From merchants to winemakers All releases have been very limited in quantity. Some have reached as much as 5,000 bottles, but these are often half bottles. The amount bottled depends partly on what is available and partly on what their importers and customers demand. The team keep no stock, so when a wine is sold, that is it.

FINE Region Those first, albeit miniscule, commercial releases from 2008 met with immediate critical success. Spain’s leading wine writer, José Peñin, named La Bota de Fino, “Macharnudo Alto” No 7, as his ‘Wine of the Year’. Other critics, and those fortunate members of the public who tried the wines, were equally enamoured. International writers were just as excited, and effusive in their praise. By this stage, the guys at Navazos were becoming more and more involved in the winemaking processes. Today, at least half the wines are made by the Navazos team. Selecting the casks plays a lesser, though still vital, role. As has been seen, the wines released are numbered in order, though the numbering does not have any specific significance. They can include any style of Sherry – Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Cream, PX and they have ventured into brandies, and even a few unfortified wines, notably a joint venture with superstar Portuguese winemaker, Dirk Niepoort. Quantities are always tiny, hence they work with a few trusted distributors in various countries. You’d have more chance of finding the rarest gems from Burgundy than some of these wines. Prices vary considerably, depending on the wine. While they may seem hefty for Sherry, these wines are often brilliant value, considering the quality. Occasionally, a solera may be repeated, but if so, the new one receives the latest number and this is made clear in the labelling. Hence, and rather coincidently, Nos 10, 20, 30 and 40 were all Manzanilla Pasada from La Guita. The famous No 1 was repeated with Nos 9 and 23. They have now reached the 70, having just bottled (Sep 2016) an Amontillado (No 69) and a Manzanilla Pasada (No 70), both in magnums. Lola Pancorbo Rarities in numbers Help for Sherry Houses Gerard Reijmer One query I had for Jesús was why on earth would the Houses sell much prized butts to a group that has now, albeit in a very small way, become a competitor. As it happens, it very much suits the Houses as what Navazos offers, while it may be the same in name, is very different in style to the wines of that House. The butts do not suit the House style and, as good as they might be, are surplus to requirements. Put bluntly, these are butts that the Houses neither need nor really want. As Jesús says, “It is not like we are taking a Grand Cru”. He believes that they will never have a problem with sourcing from the Houses for this reason. That said, Jesús concedes that their greatest problem is the ever-diminishing supply of older wines in Jerez. There is another, more obvious reason that the Houses are happy to be involved with this project. Navazos has transformed the image of Sherry around the world. The sale of a few butts is a tiny investment for a reward, which could hardly have been imagined. New Sherries, wines and spirits Navazos’s extraordinary success has led to the production of other wines and brandies, and they are even dipping their toes into a malt and a grain whisky, these two for the American market. A Vermouth and a Quina are also in the works. In addition, they have entered into various joint ventures. With Dirk Niepoort, they make a white from Palomino, which is aged in butts under flor but no fortification. They also make a sparkling with Sergi Colet. Jesús says the problem is not finding partners Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 105

Roberto Petronio to work with but that there are simply so many potential collaborations that they can’t meet the demand. Valdespino archive The Fino En Rama Navazos is no longer in the horizon but a few sacas have already been released, which will sit at a similar price to their popular Manzanilla, ‘I Think’. Jesús has described it as “a selection of Finos from the Valdespino Bodegas of younger age than our La Bota de Fino, whose next release will likely be No 68. This is not the Eduardo Ojeda ‘Macharnudo Alto’ single vineyard, but instead the grapes come from Pago Lomopardo, east of Jerez, and Pago Cartera, between Balbaina and Macharnudo in Jerez. Jesús says, “This Sherry is not fermented in cask. Its average age is around 5 years. Of course, no kind of clarification and only a very light filtration as we do with all our Finos and Manzanillas, except the few single cask Manzanillas Pasadas. This we have so tiny amount that we cannot afford losing any liquid even by the slightest possible filtration. The colour and the organoleptic profile are therefore intense and complex. It has a strong character of Fino from Jerez, and when you taste it together with ‘I Think’, it is a very educational experience of a comparison between a true Fino and a true Manzanilla coming each one from their own terroirs.” Jesús Barquín Personally, Jesús loves old Finos and Amontillados, which contravenes all conventional wisdom. We’ve always been told that Fino, especially, must be drunk as young and fresh as possible. Jesús believes the contrary. Personally, Jesús loves old Finos and Amontillados, which contravenes all conventional wisdom. We’ve always been told that Fino, especially, must be drunk as young and fresh as possible. Jesús believes the contrary. He likes Pasada styles (those aged before bottling) and believes another ten to forty years in bottle can work wonders, adding complexity and finesse. For versatility with food, he likes Fino and Manzanilla Sherries. As for glasses, he is adamant that the traditional Sherry glasses are “useless”. Normal white wine glasses will work, though his preference is for Riedel ‘Riesling’ or ‘Chianti’. He finds Burgundy glasses “too wide” for such a concentrated style of wine as Sherry. Lola Pancorbo One might argue about the style of Sherry he or she likes and what is the best glass for enjoying it, but there is one thing that is indisputable. The Sherries from Equipo Navazos are wines that every winelover should chase. By any standards, they are exceptional. > 106 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Region Colet-Navazos Extra Brut 2010 88 points La Bota de Florpower “Mas Alla” No 53 92 points A bone dry style which has spent 30 months on lees. Made from Xarello from Penedes and dosed with some Palo Cortado from 2003, no sugar or sulphur. It is a broad, slightly forceful style, backed by some minerally acidity. Some nutty, ripe notes, with a gently lingering finish. Not for long term storage. This is the very same wine as No 44 but, when 44 was bottled, a third of it spent an extra period under flor in 225-litre barrels, recently used for a Palo Cortado. It does imbue the wine with more of an oaky note. A more intense style with those same peaches and florals. Extremely complex style. A soft and supple texture and even more length. Does offer a strong Sherry-like finish. Terrific stuff. Navazos-Niepoort 2011 92 points The closest thing to an ‘unfortified Sherry’ you’ll find. Delicious and utterly fascinating. Basically, Palomino Fino must is aged in butts for nine months under flor. A few hundred years ago, this style of wine was known as ‘vino de manzanilla’ and was more valued than the region’s fortified wines. Pronounced nose with florals and stonefruits. This savoury style is a million miles from the fruit-driven wines we are more used to. Clean, briny and with excellent length. Finely balanced. Different, but really worth trying. La Bota de Vino Blanco MMX “Florpower” No 44 90 points Another unfortified white from Palomino Fino from Sanlucar (‘Pago Miraflores’, considered the Grand Cru of the region), which was fermented in stainless steel, then 8 months in cask under flor, before returning to stainless steel for another 24 months, still under flor. The ‘MMX’ stands for the 2010 vintage, but that cannot go on the label, for fear of offending bureaucrats. It is a great favourite of the team at ‘El Celler de Can Roca’, one of the world’s finest restaurants with a wine list to match. A deep gold colour with strong nutty notes and ripe peach. The link to Sherry is obvious. Some apples and florals, with oxidative notes. Nice grip on the finish. One suspects that a greater familiarity with these wines would lead to an even greater appreciation. “I Think” Manzanilla (Saca Feb ‘13) 92 points The third release of this Manzanilla en Rama (meaning a Manzanilla which is bottled directly from the cask, without clarification or filtration) and only available in the United States and Australia. The first, in October 2010, was solely for the UK while the second, in March 2012, was shared between all three countries. Each release is around 5,000 half bottles. The wine spends 4 ½ years under flor. The name is a tribute to Charles Darwin. ‘I Think’ were the only words Darwin wrote in his notebook, along with the drawing of the tree of life. A Manzanilla designed to reward further cellaring – not something usually considered as part of the Manzanilla armoury. Undoubtedly, the minimal filtration greatly assists. It is, of course, a joy to drink now. This is real sea-breeze on a rocky headland stuff. Nutty with freshness. Lovely supple texture. The briny notes linger beautifully. A cracking Manzanilla with more depth and complexity than most. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 107

Jesús Barquín La Bota de Manzanilla No 42 95 points This solera has proven a bonanza for Navazos, also providing Nos 4, 8, 16, 22 and 32. This time, they selected from the very oldest butts at Bodega Sanchez Ayala (also the source of their very first selection – an Amontillado). There is extraordinary complexity in this brilliant wine. Offers great length but is dense and weighty in the mouth. Glorious creamy texture. Notes of teak, iodine and brine. There is both life and freshness here. Easy to see how it would be so versatile with Spanish cuisine. Thrilling. Jesús speaks of it as from the Balbaina Vineyard in Sanlucar and how these wines bring the concept of terroir to life in Sherry – the lack of discussion regarding terroir here is something he believes contributed to the decline of Sherry in comparison to other great wines of the world. La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada ‘Bota Punta’ No 50 95 points ‘Punta’ means the oldest barrel in the solera, and the one providing this wine is around 15 years of age. Lifted aromas here – brine, brass, walnut, orange blossom and citrus rind. Great length and concentration, yet fresh acidity. Really has got amazing length. Only 900 halves made. From the same bodega which makes ‘La Guita’. La Bota de Palo Cortado Sanlucar No 52 97 points If this doesn’t thrill you to the core then there is no hope for you – or perhaps more fairly, you really do not like Sherry. Brilliant wine. Again, a wine from the 2010 vintage (the same wine as started out and morphed into both 44 and 53). Single vineyard, single vintage – a very rare thing in the world of Sherry. Palo Cortado is that curious ‘in-between’ style, hovering twixt Oloroso and Amontillado. Dull ones end up as neither one thing nor another. Good ones will combine the finesse and intensity of a top Amontillado and the richness of great Oloroso. And this is a seriously good one. Colours of old furniture and tinged with oranges. Amazing aromas of aged cigars, glacéd oranges, teak and linseed oil. Imagine a freshly opened oven with an orange spongecake just baked. Incredibly complex, yet so fresh it seems to dance. Great length yet immaculately clean on the finish. A glorious Sherry. La Bota de Oloroso No 46 96 points Sourced from the Montilla region, Bodega Perez Barquero, where the Pedro Ximenez grape produces fragrant and full-bodied wines. This has an average age of 25 to 30 years – it was originally the source of 108 www.tastingbook.com 3, 12 and 24 – and it is another stunner. Honey, white peach, white chocolate and apricots. A flick of acidity on the finish. Great length and a dry finish. Rich and yet balanced. Jesús says that it is the high level of glycerol which gives an impression of sweetness. A Morgan Freeman of a wine – old, mature, complex and yet as fresh and alive as ever. La Bota de Amontillado “Bota AR” No 49 96 points Recently, Navazos released a series of extraordinary wines – very old single cask Sherries – from the Bodegas Pedro Romero. First 41, then 47 and 48 and now 49 and 51. The ages range from 55 years up to more than 80 years, and 49 is the oldest of the lot. Deep brown with a green tinge on the edge. Walnuts and linseed oil, treacle, yet it is dry. A real ‘fire and ice’ character. Amazing complexity and extraordinary length. If anything, too powerful – you could serve it with an eye-dropper. Has the length of a very old Rutherglen Muscat or the Seppeltsfield 100-Year-Old Ports. And ‘AR’? Anser Real is apparently the name of a local goose and as the wine can give you goosebumps, they decided it was fitting. If ever a wine was made to be combined with a great cigar, this must be it. Navazos Gran Solera PX 92 points A wine made in halves, exclusively for Australia. Sourced from Valdespino, there is around 20 to 25 years of age here. Incredibly viscous – it has 425 grams/litre of residual sugar. Made in the Jerezano method, where casks are filled to only 5/6ths of capacity, which is said to reduce the fruitiness and increase the complexity and savouriness of a Sherry. Seriously dense – you can almost see the legs in the wine, not just on the glass. Syrup, chocolate and treacle, honey and deep raisiny notes. Good length and plenty of intensity. Like drinking liquid sultanas. La Bota de Pedro Ximenez No 36 97 points From the oldest solera of intensely sweet Pedro Ximenez at Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla. Made in the Jerezano style, the average age of the nine casks used here well exceeds thirty years. This wine is a dessert on its own. An opaque brown with the green rim of age, it is PX on steroids. Concentrated, balanced, powerful and yet somehow still fresh, it is amazing but definitely the wine to finish on – no point in trying to taste anything after this. So complex and intense. Notes of old teak, molasses, rich chocolate, dried fruits, plum pudding. Flops around the tongue like a ‘70’s lava lamp. Absolutely seamless. A star.

WHY IS IT THAT THE SHAPE OF A BUNCH OF GRAPES REMINDS ME OF A SMALL COUNTRY IN THE HEART OF EUROPE? A TASTE OF CULTURE. Austria is located at the heart of Europe. In the exact spot where some of the world’s finest wines are grown. Get to know this precious liquid culture. In Austria, wine with “EU-protected designation of origin” is called “quality wine”, and is distinguished by a red-white-red banderole – featuring the producer company number – that covers the bottle neck. www.austrianwine.com ADS.indd 16 Weiss.indd 1 Fine Wine Traue 12/16/16 AM 24.11.166:37 06:59

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FINE Documentary Obsession – The Thirst Of East Text: Andrew Caillard Photos: Warwick Ross and Robert Coe “R ed Obsession”, an Australian production by Lion Rock Films, follows a modern-day silk road through the prism of Bordeaux’s ethereal wines. It observes the risks and opportunities people take in pursuit of their love of wine. It is a study of the human spirit and cultural perspectives, set against the aesthetic of the Bordeaux and Chinese landscapes as the European debt crisis and global uncertainty gather momentum. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 17

A sense of euphoria and supreme confidence was sweeping through Bordeaux in early 2010. The great dragon of the East was firing up. Primed by the Hong Kong Government’s abolishment of wine tax in 2008 and enthralled by the rarity and price evolution of first growth estates, Chinese collectors began dominating the auction rooms of London, New York and Hong Kong. Almost every week new record prices hit the headlines. Fake bottles of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild flooded the market place. Smuggling and counterfeiting, an ugly counterpoint of prestige brands, added a new complexity to food safety and provenance. The lure of a huge emerging market and the promise of glittering wealth resulted in the greatest mobilization of wine trade in history. A vast proportion of Bordeaux’s grand cru classé wines were landing up in Chinese cellars and warehouses. It is not uncommon for great back-to-back Bordeaux vintages; it happened in 1989/1990, 1985/1986 and 1899/1900. However two perfect vintages and a rampant emerging market, where anything can happen, is unique. It was with this scenario in mind when I encountered filmmaker and Mornington Peninsula vigneron Warwick Ross on a Qantas flight between Singapore and London in May 2010. Like most ideas, this one was relatively unformed and certainly without any understanding of filmmaking. The annual primeur tastings in Bordeaux seemed to me like a great meeting of wine-heads and that this forum would be a great start for a film, especially if the 2010 vintage was a cracker. 18 www.tastingbook.com Fast forward to early 2011 and the 2010 vintage is exactly as predicted! I am back in Bordeaux in early April with co-director/ producer Warwick Ross, the distinguished Australian screenwriter and co-director David Roach, a young dynamic executive producer Robert Coe, Emmy Award winning cinematograher Lee Pulbrook, sound recordist Grant Lawson and perfect weather. Five weeks out, we had managed to secure an incredible lineup of interviews including Charles Chevalier (Ch Lafite), Thomas Duroux (Ch Palmer), Jean Guillaume Prats (Ch Cos d’Estournel) Christian Mouiex (Ch Hosanna & Ch Petrus), Corinne Mentzelopoulos and Paul Pontallier (Ch Margaux), Pierre Lurton (Ch d’Yquem & Ch Cheval Blanc) rock star oenologist Michel Rolland Frances’s gifted winewriter and philosopher Michel Bettane, UK wine critics Jancis Robinson MW & Oz Clarke, China’s celebrated winemaker Demei Li, the world’s most famous interviewer Sir Michael Parkinson (in London) etc. The working title was the innocuous “The Fine Wine Game”. The documentary was filmed with the legendary Arriflex Alexa, “a true cinema” digital camera. The significance of the investment only sunk in when Francis Ford Coppola, the owner of Inglenook Winery, was chatting with the film crew in Hong Kong some months later. Over a period of sixteen months we filmed through the four growing seasons of Bordeaux, visited Hong Kong three times and travelled through China on several occasions, including the wine regions of Ningxia, Shandong Province and Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in the far north west. China’s

FINE Documentary bewildering vastness and potential as a wine producing country completely took me by surprise. The contradictions are so extraordinary. The rapid building of infrastructure threatens to destroy the beauty of the landscape and profoundly toxify the air. Yet the pace of change, the will to learn and desire for modernity, may well result in new rapid ways of powering and developing the China economy. We filmed new vine plantings on the bleak gravelly plains where Genghis Kahn subjugated the Western Xia, remnants of the Great Wall, herds of camels grazing through wind farms, and a vineyard adjacent to a cemetery in Turfan; a predominantly Muslim region that boasts over 30,000 hectares of “Thompson Seedless” vines and an emerging wine industry (despite its history of making wine 2500 years ago). In Beijing, Shanghai and Shenzhen we talked to billionaire wine collectors, wine critics and China observers, including Rupert Hoogewerf who famously described Communism as “Dog eat Dog Capitalism, but the other way around!” Andrew Caillard MW, Cameraman Steve Arnold, Producer/ Director Warwick Ross, China consultant Demei Li The Bordeaux market in China has changed profoundly since those heady days. The Chinese Government’s austerity measures of 2012 changed consumption patterns and led to a severe downturn in sales. But “shoots” are growing once again in 2016 and Bordeaux seems to be back in business, yet with out the euphoria and the excitement. About Lion Rock Films Founded by filmmaker Warwick Ross, and based in Sydney, Australia, Lion Rock Films specialises in the development and production of high end, entertaining feature films for Australian and international audiences. Principals Warwick Ross and David Roach have built up a strong reputation over twenty years of original writing and innovative production. Their film credits include some of the most successful Australian feature films ever made including Young Einstein, Reckless Kelly and more recently the multi-award winning WW1 drama, Beneath Hill 60. copyright © 2012 lionrockfilms WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 19

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FINE Lifestyle text : P ekka N uikki The new Jaguar F-Type reminds me of the day when I was on my way to a car dealership on the outskirts of London, with a newly issued driving licence. My first car, a bright red Jaguar E-Type Cabriolet, was waiting for me at the dealership. The car cost me 1,500 pounds, nearly half of my annual student budget at the time, but the price was not too high for a Jaguar of my own, a classic from 1962. The car was missing a back bumper, it had a few holes in the roof and the paintwork was faded, but the smile on my face as I drove the car out of the dealership was one of the widest of my life. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 111

W hen the E-Type was introduced in 1961, the entire automotive world was impressed. Its dimensions, spirit and shapes were so perfect that the car is part of the permanent exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Even Enzo Ferrari has admitted that it is “the most beautiful car in the world”. The E-Type is an iconic car that set new standards for car design and performance. The effects of those standards are still evident in the modern Jaguar models, including the F-Type – a unique combination of effortless performance, sporty comfort, advanced technology and exciting design. 112 www.tastingbook.com

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“A half-century of further development has not diminished the significance of the E-Type,” says Mike O’Driscoll, Managing Director of Jaguar Cars and Chairman of Jaguar Heritage. “The E-Type was a sensation when it was launched, and it continues to be the most iconic and longest-standing symbol of Jaguar. It is simply one of the most exciting cars ever created and is true to the ingenuity of Sir William Lyons, the founder of Jaguar.” As a sports car, it became a symbol of the sixties, along with the likes of the Beatles and 114 www.tastingbook.com the miniskirt. Many of the brightest stars of the time owned a Jaguar E-Type. It was the car of choice of Frank Sinatra, George Harrison, Brigitte Bardot, Britt Ekland, Peter Sellers, Tony Curtis, Jackie Stewart, George Best and Steve McQueen, among many others. This is testimony to its desirability and status, perhaps even more than its sales figures. “It is impossible to exaggerate the impact that the E-Type had when it was introduced in 1961,” says Ian Callum, Director of Design at Jaguar. The car epitomised the ­revolutionary

FINE Lifestyle spirit of the era that it later came to symbolise. It also represents a design trend that continues to affect the design of new Jaguar models.” The Jaguar E-Type was revealed at the Geneva Motor Show in 1961, and it caused a sensation. Its maximum speed was 240 km/h, but it cost only half of the price of competing models with the same performance ability. The media was enthusiastic and so eager to test the car that Sir William Lyons asked Norman Dewis, the chief test driver, to drive another car from Coventry to Switzerland overnight. It was an affordable supercar that instantly became iconic – and remained on sale for 14 years. The six-cylinder engine that was used in the E-Type had enabled Jaguar to win the Le Mans 24-hour race six times in the 1950s. In 1961, the 3.8-litre version of the engine generated 265 horsepower and a maximum speed of 240 km/h, making the E-Type – as well as its predecessor, the XK120 – the fastest car in production at the time. The man behind the harmonious yet exciting design was Malcolm Sayer. He was an aviation engineer and had applied his aerodynamic expertise also to the C-Type and the Dtype, the models that had been victorious at Le Mans. The aggressive yet elegant body design of the E-Type is an evolution of the D-Type and the E2A prototype. The E-Type solidified Jaguar’s position as an elite carmaker. This model with an alphabetically selected name remained in production for 14 years, with a total sales volume of 70,000 cars. This made it the first mass-produced sports car in Europe. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 115

F-Type – a new feline The new Jaguar F-Type takes the company back to its roots: it is a two-seater sports convertible with the focus on performance, agility and responsive handling. “Jaguar is one of the founding members of the sports car segment, with a history of more than 75 years. With the F-Type, we returned to our origins. The F-Type does not resemble any other sports car. It is a Jaguar sports car: extremely precise, powerful, sensual and dynamic.” Adrian Hallmark, Global Brand Director, Jaguar Hallmark could not be more right: the F-Type feels very dynamic. But it is a well-behaved feline, even though its active exhaust system makes it roar like a beast. The valves in the exhaust system open at 3,000 revolutions per minute, creating a breath-taking crescendo. In terms of sound, the F-Type is the most memorable Jaguar that I have ever driven. Not even the new XKR-S is capable of creating a similar, full and complete sound of pure power. The F-Type is an extremely beautiful car, both modern and compact. With its long bonnet, it is every bit as masculine as the E-Type, but it lacks the feminine, balancing softness of the E-Type. Jaguar F-Type V8 S Motor: 5,0 l V8 Maximum power: 495 hv 364 kW Top torque: 625 Nm Acceleration: 0–100 km/h 4,3 s Top speed: 300 km/h coupe Height: 4470 mm Width: 1923 mm Weight: 1665 kg 116 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Lifestyle As a driving experience, the F-Type is a little disappointing: it is simply too perfect. Its ideal 50:50 weight distribution and lightweight aluminium body – as well as its suspension system that adjusts damper rates up to 500 times per second – create excellent conditions for an enjoyable driving experience. In addition, with its nearly 500-horsepower, eight-cylinder engine and eight-speed Quickshift automatic gearbox, it rewards experienced and inexperienced drivers alike with high-precision control and smoothness, even on meandering roads. The F-Type ­accelerates to 100 km/h in 4.3 s­ econds – and further to its electronically limited maximum speed of 300 km/h. “When designing the F-Type, our team of engineers focused on creating a more dynamic driving experience than ever before. In order to achieve this, each of the team members had high requirements to meet. Every one of these requirements was met and, in many cases, exceeded. This means that the F-Type has every single one of the sporty qualities we were aiming for.” Ian Hoban, Vehicle Line Director, Jaguar WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 117

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FINE Lifestyle The Jaguar F-Type exemplifies the company’s future vision: its self-confident design purposely challenges consumers’ preconceived notions. Arched lines and a certain muscular simplicity have always been characteristic of Jaguar cars, and the F-Type is no exception: its design is centred on two key lines that form its front and rear ailerons. Jaguar cars are known for being aesthetically pleasing, and this quality also makes the F-Type immediately stand out. Its interior is designed to resemble a fighter pilot cockpit, and the controls are grouped ergonomically according to functionality. In addition, the SportShift selector of the eight-speed automatic gearbox resembles the joystick of a fighter aircraft. The air vents at the top of the dashboard appear and open only when prompted to do so by the driver or the computer. At other times, they remain out of sight. “We wanted to create an exciting experience for the driver. The cockpit of a sports car should be an intimate space, so we created an interior where the surfaces arch toward and envelop the driver. The feeling we wanted to create was about what you want to do rather than what you are expected to do. This is increasingly important in this highly processed world of ours.” Ian Callum, Director of Design, Jaguar The jaguar is a predator, fearsome and unpredictable, the boldest and most feline wild animal. The defiant, streamlined design of the F-Type suggests the same kind unpredictability and excitement. Unfortunately, however, I feel that the F-Type is a little lame: in terms of qualities and technology, it is too close to perfection. The fear and respect are gone – the healthy fear and respect that every driver feels toward a real sports car. The F-Type does not make your palms sweat, adrenaline run high or heart beat in sync with the engine. Throughout its history, Jaguar has made excellent executive and sports cars, but none of them has been perfect. The Jaguar R models are closest to perfection but have always involved a human factor. They are products crafted with passion and have created the perfect union with another human factor: the driver. The F-Type, however, does not seem to need me, the driver. Examined from any angle or measured using any indicator, it is perfect in itself. When driving the F-Type, I begin to miss the more human E-Type and all of the R models in the history of Jaguar. WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 119

The birth of the R brand The history of the Jaguar R models began with the introduction of the XJR-S in 1988. The first R model established half of the Jaguar formula for the future: its new suspension and steering systems offered more precise and responsive handling than before, without compromising on the drivability of the Jaguar saloons. In addition, it was visually more unique, with its aerodynamically designed body, and it had less chrome, a colour-coded interior and a matte black front grille. The second half of the R formula was introduced a year later in the form of a 4.0-litre, six-cylinder engine. Created by the JaguarSport unit, the engine generated 251 horsepower, seven per cent more than the standard car. The R saloon had arrived. Today, it would be difficult to imagine the Jaguar line of cars without it. Jim Randle was head engineer when the first R cars were developed. Here are his thoughts: “Jaguar had developed a compact turbocharger with good torque, and we naturally used it in the XJ220, but I have to say I prefer mechanical chargers. Torque is attractive, particularly in a Jaguar. For me, however, 120 www.tastingbook.com the d ­ riving properties are the most important quality of the R-class cars. They are the cornerstone of Jaguar. The first XJR was a very cautious experiment, and it had even better driving properties and handling than standard cars in some respects, as its basic manoeuvrability was better.” Introduced in 1994, the new XJ was a very important car for Jaguar. The R version had already been ingrained in Jaguar’s DNA as part of the new XJ series, from the very beginning. The new XJR offered 78 horsepower more than its predecessor and even more than the 6.0-litre, twelve-cylinder engine in the new XJ. It accelerated to 100 km/h in less than six seconds. “That is pretty much as fast as you can go with four doors around you,” said one of the test drivers at the time. Just three years after introducing the previous XJR model, Jaguar launched a mechanically charged version of the new AJ-V8 engine. It weighed 20 kilos less than the six-cylinder version but produced 370 brake-horsepower and 44 horsepower more. With the new engine, the improved XJ model accelerated to 100 km/h in 5.3 seconds, as rapidly as the best two-door supercars of its time. It was the first Jaguar car that called for an electronic speed limiter. It was also the first Jaguar R model that I purchased. In a superior manner, the XJR combines the timeless design and comfortability of an executive car with the unexpectedly powerful, mechanically fascinating performance of a sports car. Today, the XJR of that time is a powerful car that has stood the test of time and offers

FINE Lifestyle Jaguar XJR SWB Motor: 5,0 l V8 Supercharged Maximum power: 550 hv 405 kW Top torque: 680 Nm Acceleration: 0–100 km/h 4,6 s Top speed: 280 km/h coupe Height: 5127 mm Width: 1899 mm Weight: 1870 mm WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 121

one of the best quality-to-price r­ atios. Its prices start as low as EUR 6,000, and you can get an excellent car with a relatively low mileage for EUR 12,000. Introduced in 2003, the seventh-generation XJR was the first Jaguar with an aluminium monocoque structure. Its body weighed 140 kilos less than a similar body made from steel would have weighed but was 60 per cent stiffer. The lightweight body offered Jaguar the opportunity to bring into production the fastest ever Jaguar for street use, with a 400-horsepower, eight-cylinder engine that enabled the car to accelerate to 100 km/h in 5.0 seconds. In 2002, Jaguar introduced another four-door model alongside the XJR. The S-Type R was the fastest and most powerful Jaguar saloon ever produced, with an improved, 4.2-litre, 400 horsepower version of the mechanically charged eight-cylinder engine. In 2003, the improved engine was also installed in all XJR and XKR models. The smaller saloon was a genuine R car in all respects. It was popular, deservedly so, with more than 8,000 cars sold over a period of five years. I was one of the people who bought a S-Type R. At the time, its high price reflected its qualities and brand. Today, the car is almost obscenely inexpensive. If you can cope with its design from the 1950s, you will get great value for your money. Other equally powerful and technologically modern cars with touchscreen displays and a top brand are available nowhere near the same price. The cheapest S-Type R cars cost EUR 15,000, and I have seen impeccable cars with good histories go for EUR 18,000. The S-Type with its retro design was replaced by the entirely new and modern XF in 2008. Its R version was introduced in 2010. For the first time ever, a four-door Jaguar offered more than 500 horsepower and accelerated to 100 km/h in less than five seconds. It was equipped with an engine similar to that of the XJ220 hypercar. The shock of feeling such an engine in a coupé can only be exceeded by installing the same engine in a family saloon. The fast XFR needed to be comprehensively rethought. A compressor-charged 5.0-litre, 500-horsepower, eightcylinder engine was placed under its arched bonnet. The additional horsepower for the XFR-S was generated by redesigning its intake and exhaust sys- 122 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Lifestyle tems and further developing its engine control system. Its suspension and transmission systems build on what Jaguar learned with the XKR-S and the FType. With regard to the XKR-S, this means beautifully crafted, custom-designed front suspension components. With regard to the F-Type, it means the eight-speed Quickshift gearbox, which allows the driver to softly and rapidly shift down several gears. The additional power also sets requirements for aerodynamics. Aerodynamic adjustments were made to reduce the uplift force by 68 per cent – which will prove useful when approaching the electronically limited maximum speed of 300 km/h, if not sooner. Because of its exceptional performance ability, the XFR-S is probably the most significant Jaguar R car so far. Mike Cross, Chief Engineer at Jaguar, explains what he wanted from the XFR-S: “I like fast saloon cars. I drive an XRF, so this was an excellent project for me to work on. We wanted to increase the pleasure of driving and intensify the related feelings without compromising on Jaguar’s DNA. The car needed to feel as good at high speeds as it feels at 50 km/h.” The XJ220 continues to be the fastest Jaguar ever produced. When it was introduced in 1992, its top speed was 350 km/h, which was higher than the maximum speed of any other car in serial production. It was built using an advanced aluminium body structure, WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 123

which made it extremely strong, but it weighed only 1,300 kilos. The XJ220, which was originally designed to be a concept car, made its debut at the British Motor Show in 1988. It was designed by Keith Helfet, and its production began in December 1989. Its six-cylinder, twin-turbo engine generated 550 horsepower, and it accelerated to 100 km/h in less than four seconds. Its production was discontinued in 1994, after 281 cars. The XJ220 had a significant effect on Jaguar’s R cars. XKR The motorsports media was captivated by the introduction of the XKR in 1998, and the model remained in production for longer than any other R-Type car so far. When the XKR became available for sale, it had the highest acceleration among all standard cars ever manufactured by Jaguar, and it was the fastest car with automatic transmission on the market. It had the same 370-horsepower, 4.0-litre, turbocharged Jaguar AJ-V8 engine as the XJR saloon and, much like the XJR, was more powerful than its appearance suggested. The only, subtle references to the R model were the air i­ntake 124 www.tastingbook.com

FINE Lifestyle Jaguar XKR Motor: 5,0 l V8 510 Supercharged Maximum power: 510 hv 375 kW Top torque: 625 Nm Acceleration: 0–100 km/h 4,8 s Top speed: 250 km/h coupe Height: 4794 mm Width: 1892 mm Weight: 1753 kg WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 125

holes in the bonnet to ensure better cooling, the red Supercharged emblems, an inch larger tyres and a small spoiler in the front. In 2003, the engine size increased to 4.2 litres, with 400 horsepower. I have had several XKRs. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful cars of its time. Much like the XJR, it combines the elegance and high-quality materials of an executive car with high performance, in addition to the arched shapes, beautiful dimensions and timeless beauty of a coupé. The charged version of the current full-aluminium XK originally boasted a 420-horsepower version of the 4.2-litre, eight-cylinder engine. Combined with the new, lightweight aluminium body, it enabled the car to accelerate to 100 km/h in less than five seconds. When the third generation was introduced in 2009, the qualities and appearance of the XKR needed to be updated. It was equipped with a 5.0-litre, eight-cylinder engine that generated 510 horsepower and enabled the car to accelerate to 100 km/h in 4.6 seconds and further to its electronically limited maximum speed of 250 km/h. One might have thought that a re- Jaguar XKR-S Motor: 5,0 l V8 550 Supercharged Maximum power: 510 hv 375 kW Top torque: 680 Nm Acceleration: 0–100 km/h 4,2 s Top speed: 300 km/h coupe Height: 4794 mm Width: 1892 mm Weight: 1753 kg 126 www.tastingbook.com al-wheel drive with more than 500 horsepower would have been proof enough of power for Jaguar – but no. The Geneva Motor Show has always been special for Jaguar. In 1961, the motor show witnessed the introduction of the iconic EType. In 2011, Jaguar celebrated the 50th anniversary of the motor show by introducing another special sports car: the XKR-S. It had the same output of 550 horsepower as the XJ220 back in 1993. At the time, the output had been regarded as shocking. The XKR-S accelerates to 100 km/h in 4.2 seconds, and it was the first serially produced Jaguar to reach the maximum speed of 300 km/h. As well as uncompromised performance ability, the entire car is characterised by uncompromised quality and attention to detail. Its design has an air of raw aggression not before seen in a Jaguar. The design is based on the aerodynamics required for the maximum speed of 300 km/h. This is apparent in the shapes and details of the car. Although its performance ability may even been too much for some drivers, the XKR-S is a Jaguar at heart. I have owned several aluminium-bodied XKRs, including a convertible, a coupé and an R-S version. In my opinion, it continues to be the best combination of style, sportiness and power that Jaguar has ever offered, with the exception of the E-Type. It is easy to agree with Ian Callum, Director of Design at Jaguar: “Each three-dimensional shape in a sports car offers us an opportunity to create something visually exciting in terms of both content and form. For me, a sports car is by definition a car that serves its purpose while also offering its mechanics and technologies in the most beautiful, exciting and sensual package possible, without unnecessary surfaces or embellishments. Design should always tell a story, which is why each shape in a Jaguar has a beginning, a direction and an end. If you approach each shape individually and manage to create dimensions that are aesthetically as perfect as possible, the design will stand the test of time. The E-Type is excellent proof of this.”

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the as w t d n da ran or uar b duce t 385 b o s s ri Jag s intr It co y . ua r the a 5 an g w 3 p Ja nde hich in 19 m itre o – c l u 35 on .5ar r, w ive • 19 rst c agua Lond mot d a 3 J to an in e fi Th re SS otel ns’ au ion, ater. s it r H o l e sl y r 2.5 ayfai am L itre v year i l l e l ar M i e 5 r . sc th the ds. W d a 1 t d r ce ce un po en po rodu trodu r s d be .5-lia p n i a u 3 o t, ag als l was he le h t J ertib lier. T mfor al e s d o r ir onv c ic a mo f e of e yp c ars tion Th 100 is t t e t – y a a S an th 38 rS ree bin • 19 agua st th com ance d eleg u J a j m n n r a e a d d d fo Th uce offere per hapes race ally d y o t r s R to int rsion spor hed AC ned ve and arc esig and R e t r i t ty th was d Trial bili Wi usa uar. S100 lpine me na Jag he S he A f a t t o e ls, s in am as tai ec de award w b by ine at n ar th r eng ld W wo s. Jag e in ua Wor t the e nt e g g v a n a e J d in er on ne ng rds – A cylind e Sec egua XK e s for 3 r r 4 e th a fi xas 49, th uar c • 19 rst si ng uri rved g fi 9 d 1 a e J Th oped o se ed in for el er uc wh dev eers ntrod f pow o in .I eng ctory ource des. a s a f c a r the e ua d as ar, e rd u u K e fo v l X t Jag at th a ser than a na n as igi yons satio re e w top o r L m o m n a d e n m se Th nt he tende hed illia 9 – by W insta ugh t n c i 4 a s o n re it • 19 ned e a . Alth and en e e g m r i h a s c e t w c De be r Sho engin winds e on test s v o 120 e a dri he fa ut XK h Mot of th t ho a test t s e n i i t m Bri inatio 120 w h in eca b m/ nd b rld. XK m k o n a 2 c o k ,a 13 ed rac the w of et spe eed n k i e r sp bb ca the d-Ja ced u n e d t Os ly pro ial ser 128 www.tastingbook.com . car s ph Type . Its m u C i tr th a C K120 the i X y of w b s s ra e rie t rac car w pired powe e s s rs n e e i r fi A o th s – re of es51 sm n it we wa redec he • 19 ar wo name apes t I t . p u al sh ics its rom Jag rigin und nam than me f o o y r e Th ifully aerod hter in ca tw of t lig aut be iples r cen s firs race. t i e c r n u p d pe pri t 25 0, an 4-ho -Ty u 2 2 1 b s rD K n n a X a u g ful r i e M es Jag eve Le , th t d r, the cars sor dary in n y a h en aye ports viabl ues p g S e m l iu colm iful s to tin tr ar l t on 4 – y Ma beau first c ich c pe 5 y h • 19 ned b most D-T ns the y, w e lso olog guar Le Ma sig h a e t s a n f D a J h e o . h tec ne It w ars n t nd, is o ced. oque ace c ess i co e c u r c s c d o t , pro mon mos us su first in de mo ing clu used enor , plac e 7 d b ye 95 to njo in 1 th. s e race he r six a c rt nd ur og a o o f h h rec n n 24 fourt i o i e 6 v it rd, 195 oti gn r r. thi co gua ted in utom icula , e a t R a h r J h – ny a g s pa 56 kni of riti in p • 19 der s was the B orts r Com ay d un to e exp deca on irth fo m Ly nput Si iv t b ner t s i 1 o a w 2 g lli is allo his esi tom fh Wi n o nd au he Sw r, on as a d o i t a t a ni ry ed Jagu ccess nd ust f ind d fou sor o eat su ry ha es gr to t He redec oyed . ac e tha f r j p u n d ar a fir e u the ater e prene y l ag 1957, estro e J r d t e an n en th ruary rea d re a at eb nce a he fi of e F and r i T a h 12 Af ten of ort ne. 7 – ning main ion li ds w rehen 5 9 n t e e 1 p c u v h • e t du po om the d in pro illion n inc On tarte ntire a m s s e ee wa had t the d thr ry. It s n o o u t alm d aro e fac th se cau ge at a m da

FINE Lifestyle st r, ju re v e e op ow . H eady ks e n im s alr tha et a t th ry w acity, a nt acto cap ou f al . am , the tot input e r g s r t e i t a l e f a l l o y l ib ird eks sib ed sawe ne-th ’ incr sen o a s w o r t d t ee ca use ga rs, loy nic pe ca etito or atin emp o t p c m -Ty the Mo yi to ul uar E its co neva r the A t y Jag all of e Ge as ne w 1– r h t g t a 6 li i n t d • 19 egen dowi ed a rrari, . Its fe c l e ly a ” F e du sh lar ed Th ver intro Enzo oduc rticu o , n to as pa pr tio it w rding ever were . r en o y a h c t net c c w on eau .A ful ow eauti nd b ant b h S b r a eleg en er we , ost be ev s e “m s, po long av hat N Man t e ts p h i a T n d Le d no i r sh l t e a u l n u th de ag co cou e or evi at test J ed f er, it h h t n a W in e ig ev 6 – e “Gr s des How ange evere 6 . 9 s h t wa cular te ch red •1 the as 13 ed XJ parti minu suffe spite Cit , the e t D in 13 red las s” XJ 1971. ce sto e r Wa ur ra e to a ining in lly le -ho e, du rema ident essfu luab 24 a t c c v y e c l c t p on c a as su mos com The traffi w nd s. a , it e ta l ru e in mage rares g a e ma rs ar da sive d tly th ca Jagu n n . f e e e t r c o r d 00 n e u ex e 0 e in st-liv 400, t is c exist l d .I ge han ry an in ars t lon da uar en and More 24 ye e a g Jag e f v st s. d o t ga A l e la on 8 – as th m Ly perio r tha nd6 • 19 J6 w Willia ver a le ca w sta o y ne . tab eX Th ned b e sold mfor it set rs r o g yea i d e c s r n w e y o a l f d e, lar ars et 6 c rticu nt rid mark a XJ e l r p i ca ds sa wa th an uxury l o o e sm or th sf ard in ith n d w l. l w o o s e re ts od o i rs we is m able h nt a t i c f as ing XJ6 ion o e it w ed r om ,000 ct d e C u n h d – te 72 n 250 intro oint w lly in ts top 9 1 i a e a p • in th th th da rig re of Wi e the Mo ears eache its o ine. s ng cam wa ith ry dr fou ar ha car w der e lly be al XJ u in e lin lve cia Jag uip th ve-cy t offi e orig twe . l i e h q , e h 92 T e h T , tw to m/ tion. 979. ntil 19 itre 25 k 1 c l u u d 2 5.4 rod 3 an n sale of e ed o in p 97 th spe t car ft in 1 ined o t i a el m tes or fas a fac ne re he ss i ce e, t n g c e n yp omu T s giv er e E y ,c ind th s irit the cyl or to ve sp hank r w o i T t s . i A n es – et the 75 atio ucc mp a s ’s co histic leted e • 19 e e mp op yp uar ob s th E-T ned t d Jag and s , it co acros cord e g e e y i n e s it ur gi is r ac De inher lux er en e r s. Th l i h t S i r m d XJ g it w cylin 000- 3 hou r. e 3 3, ein t v n a n l a i l , a b rs twe l Run ss th a e s t y i l to onba , in le four ton ing n tes until nn a m a t a C Lea d S aten er ctio ite an me in trodu Un ot be f o ho he in sn at nd t wa e e died after h T s s n – r 85 Lyo yea • 19 illiam n 50 a uar W e th ag r. J a r Sir n u e i e o g , th ga f th a m rst Ja Sp s a ngine six o ces. fi u e e o i ng ip ra th e or of litr nni ict a 7.0- le, wi ionsh the V p – . y h ab 88 db ham wit topp eam • 19 ped r C panie est t in s a n in d u ort C com the b uip tw Eq rove p c p d S ere a r and ts firs l r R i XJ n Wo es w rive uar 7. ve ctori st d Jag e 195 e i ele b d v c e e r n ese for th secu ce si Th o ra s als ur ard aw JR-9 24-ho s eX Th e Man L the WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 129

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d ve n. hie esig c D a f s ro , li oa irecto of 14 e g c e D g n g i s n a s r lo uar a the e ne e v e rs o lif Jag er, at had a A c i d l nd guar 0 – joine s ear 6a a 00 ear r XJ1 ign J • 2 allum y C es 30 agua d n n Ia to tha n a J re ble , Mo d see ing a um nni d ha be e e l l f e i n h e m to fi t th de am ew re the n car a dre e . nc r of ern mono der a day od ga le Jagu ry m on a cylin E ve e. htrst 8– ed 00 e fi l and s bas e, eig tre on r • 2 F, th r a i a l fo t n w -li 5.0 eated e X aditio ody 4.2 a Th s r r b t h t i c wit as nd sa . Its wa time ure, a laced ion w ds. s t e e r c e ep sam stru ter r FR ve er sp h X ue as la g i q d h co e w rge r for in e cha eng uper hung e S ith a Th w se tho of ed pe ah s the n Ut hed flats i c a re salt e had ar nevill c e n h Bo rt fte he rs n t s. ea o m l i sso h e t ifu dece ium tat m/ all t k S u 3.7 nited pre ea min 36 U d b m its ts alu and e n h e a ro ss. I in t rs f ld anc ake e Bo diffe succ rform m – s l J , t X globa its pe amic safe 010 • 2 ewes yn d a sa e d r n v n e d e o e Th as be impr vance lso off river. s h a d d a r a d h a an Its he c or the re . u y t f t c m r u e o r l n rio st hi , at eco ile w s inte ive l t e a g o fu re a iou nov ue t o xur n in ontin utoo d it m ng, lu s r a u lc xi wa foc wil os in rela on e to ity. It darie ris M d u l a i n n n i P u b t a a n bo t the was 010 l co ance the a ar • 2 r wil k m ed r a tc . c o e a u rf br du ncep come Jag ve pe and Intro o c o t i . ay ct 75 is at tra he w ology C-X t e wh n h f h d t lea e tec 010, tion o tiv n 2 dica mo ow i in h S ing tor erest int an FINE Lifestyle inalk es m W laces c a p To pl by two te the wo ned first a t r a ow st leb he gn Fir cars ook t To ce desi le – t 2 b to 90 ce. ita R) R-1 WR rs su red, • 19 ar XJ (TW ur ra T o a d g u h c e tu Jag Racin s 24- horis R-15 fac J n anu ut X a w a a r m M a sh uar Le gu h. ere he Jag of Ja ars w s eac in t ion, r d c n be as 50 ou occ d num Only ion p ml . l e Co i e it tor lim ad us st a m o M o ro rd s for g alm Fo er e n n h i t ow by t cos d , ew uired N or ans 0 – s acq ec Le M a 9 r 9 •1 wa ed -9 in ce du pe uar r s e XJR o pro se e Jag t h tho , f th ed ot ny. pa an tory o want ilar to J220 t X e c m le – Y he vi nd ies si guar urday Ra t 92 t it Ja l 9 a y m 1 a S i e b • ed eer J ith qu in th f the cts in r i p n Ins engi use w sulted ers o proje e b r l e d d a a we em e cia r is r h r ro r. Th he m n spe 220s st ca o f t a J e r o c t y a X c as d b rked guar ace ef a r signe wo Ja s th of o a e 0 h d w ly 3 t, it w ar a c – men e. On en K8 om m b i e X nst Clu free t r a m h i rt ga Fo ir fo ace a ded the ced. s e r e du d. al he cce pro worl n t d su ipped ts o n e n w e h ll eam ord a r equ in t ce t a Ex sign s at F rts c r was n – 6 io ca nt po de 9 s e e r 9 h nat m • 1 agua art st new ine. T ombi that p J e r c e car Th ther d the fi r eng this e ta d i o d g ra n n e n e a i th signi ad nts fo cyl uars, m t e e ih n g in d n eig ld Ja desig uirem med e a a m i q o p m h e wit ed by nd to ers’ r e XK8 beca a d ir h m n a p T u i a s s r. lg s in con ry ca tion sta no dern u ta x c of u e l o exp afe tm me ous, s ed all i c ed spa exce y l e . r at elle sts be ny any pa p m co a com t , n re otors pa e M a w t tim e Ta n ll o A t a f e8 – sold ed ro 00 s • 2 r wa a. ua d fin ks g n n a ua di ya tJ tha d Jag in In es nolog ess, t d an e s c y s uc fa tech ilit ba s b e e a Th high hug ort he Su of mf a 8– h t ar 00 d wit ame ty, co nts, 2 gu • ec abili me st Ja pe t b p s i e u F u Eq the X ance t adj e fast , rm sligh e th s l o i f r ta pe With ecam its to bility. FR b va dX dri arge h rc pe WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM 131

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