information sights transport architecture art music sports design shopping gastronomy restaurants nightlife Discover Helsinki 2016–2017 Discover Helsinki 2016–2017 P L E A S E L E A V E T H I S B O O K F O R T H E N E X T G U E S T

Discover Helsinki 2016–2017 Contents 10 The Finnish way 20 Visitor information 28 Getting around Helsinki 36 Attracted to Helsinki – Sights and attractions 50 Helsinki – Never far from water 56 Architecture in Helsinki – A mixture of east and west 62 Art treasures of the city 70 Reason to make a song and dance 76 Helsinki – Sporty daughter of the Baltic 80 Finnish design 86 Shop ‘til you drop in Helsinki 102 Restaurants and dining – A Cavalcade of Four Gastronomic Seasons 114 Fresh and local – Restaurants in Helsinki 128 Bars and nightlife and no dress-codes 138 Map of Helsinki Welcome to Helsinki. Discover Helsinki 2016–2017 will take you on a magical tour of this magnificent city. The editorial and photographic content takes you where you want to go, shows you how to get there and is designed to make your visit more enjoyable. Use it as your guide. >> www.discoverhelsinki.fi DISCOVER HELSINKI * 19th edition An edition of 23 000 copies is published every spring. Discover Helsinki is available almost in every hotel room in the Helsinki metropolitan area and in the suites and first class cabins of cruise ships a year at a time between 15 June 2016 and 15 May 2017. Published by Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy / Melkonkatu 22 A, 00210 Helsinki / +358 (0)9 6860 750 / www.discoverhelsinki.fi Publisher Marko Lahtinen, Managing Director // Art Director Marjo Prosi Sales Anssi Hämäläinen, tel. +358 (0)9 6860 7521 // Jani Kesänen, tel. +358 (0)9 6860 7540 // Nina Dahlin, tel. +358 (0)9 6860 7530 PrePress & Printing by PunaMusta Oy Cover photos by 1. Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com // 2. Lauri Rotko / City of Helsinki Media Bank // 3. Scanrail / iStockphoto 4. Lauri Rotko / City of Helsinki Media Bank // 5. Arno De La Chapelle / Musiikkitalo // 6. Kim Ekman / Visit Finland Although the authors and publisher have tried to make the information as accurate as possible, they accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book. All contents copyright © 2016 by Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. For all advertisement enquiries and book orders please contact Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy.

65 winner 2012. Create your own ring ilovelumi.fi Stockmann 7th floor ww w.l ind ro o s he l s inki.fi

Welcome to the Viking world Experience the Baltic Sea, Finland, Sweden and Estonia on board Viking Line! vikingline.fi vikingline.se vikingline.ee vikingline.ru

A GREETING FROM THE MAYOR OF HELSINKI Dear Visitor, Discover Helsinki Pertti Nisonen / City of Helsinki Media Bank You are cordially welcome to Helsinki! This brochure is published to help you discover our city and to make your stay as enjoyable and pleasant as possible. Helsinki has its roots deep in the sea. Originally, the city was founded as a trade post on the northern shore of the Gulf of Finland in 1550. Since then, the sea has played a central part in the development of the city and its identity. In Helsinki, various contrasts – such as the city and nature, urban vibe and peace, and science and art – combine to create a new wave of urban energy. The result is an open and attractive city with original urban culture and unique events. The Suomenlinna Fortress Island outside is today a UNESCO World Heritage site. The ferry from the Market Square takes you there in just 15 minutes. This summer, Vallisaari Island will open up to the public after centuries in military use. This unique tourism destination embraced by the sea has slumbered for the past decades, remaining almost in a perfect natural state. Helsinki is also a city for all friends of good food. The concept that turns every kitchen into a potential restaurant originates from our city. The official Restaurant Day that takes place now once a year is not only an initiative to promote our food culture, but also to strengthen the urban community. The most recent introduction in the scene of community events is the Sauna Day, which opens the doors to private saunas for everyone to enjoy. Cultural and arts events are rich and numerous. The annual Helsinki Festival is the largest, aiming to make art accessible for all. Helsinki and Finland have a long and internationally acclaimed tradition in design and architecture. Functionalistic style meets Art Nouveau in the cityscape, making it unique in the world. The Neoclassical quarters around the City Hall make up the Old Town, full of great restaurants and small boutiques. Following our commitment to make Helsinki a global leader in openness and transparency, the City Hall is open to the public seven days a week offering changing exhibitions. To visitors and residents alike, we wish to offer a fun and functional urban environment. I warmly welcome you to Helsinki and hope that you enjoy your stay. Our city is your city! Jussi Pajunen Mayor of Helsinki

25 From Helsinki to medieval Tallinn up to 6 times a day! A two-hour trip on modern Tallink Shuttle is more than just a fast ferry crossing. We guarantee that your trip will be pleasant and unforgettable in every sense. Tallinn offers modern shopping malls and unique boutiques. Head for the old town and the special shops aligning its streets and alleys. Bookings and more information tallinksilja.com/en

23 Take the luxurious Promenade to Helsinki and Stockholm! The Promenade on Silja Symphony and Silja Serenade is lively shopping street in the middle of the Baltic Sea. The numerous special shops and restaurants on board offer something for everyone. Visit the trendy designer shops and purchase world-famous brands at low tax-free prices. The elegant white ships have daily departures from Helsinki to Stockholm. Helsinki ticket office: Erottajankatu 19

Restaurant Day © Jussi Hellsten Fresh and surprising. Find your and be inspired! The cultural mix of East and West, the urban vibe and nature, modern technology and history. Helsinki is a city whose contrasts create unique experiences for visitors looking for both peace and excitement. The highlights of Helsinki in 2016 include the brand new Löyly design sauna and the timeless beauty of the urban nature and archipelago. rant serving the finest Finnish cuisine, which visitors can enjoy while admiring the stunning views from the large terrace that stretches out over the sea. Covering over 1800 square metres including terraces and with a profile height of 9 metres, the impressive building will also be a real design attraction as an example of contemporary wooden architecture. Finland’s sauna culture is alive and well in Helsinki and experiencing even somewhat of a revival. In the year ahead visitors will be able to enjoy new kinds of sauna experiences beside the sea in a cool urban milieu. Helsinki Pool is a new kind of spa complex inspired by the historic spa heritage of the Baltic Sea that will open at the beginning of summer 2016 next to the Market Square. Helsinki Pool will combine year-round swimming and sauna experiences with culture and entertainment. Visitors will be able to enjoy great food and city events, visit Centrum Balticum and admire Finnish cleantech expertise in practice. The Löyly design sauna will open in late May 2016 just a short distance from the city centre on the southern tip of the Helsinki peninsula. The modern complex will also house a restau- ISLAND PARADISES JUST MINUTES AWAY Helsinki is a green city where nature is ever present, even in the heart of the city. Green areas account for one-third of the total area, and parks can be found everywhere. Helsinki is also characterised by its maritime landscape, boasting over 130 kilometres of shoreline. The sea is all around and offers visitors a vast range of experiences, such as the Suomenlinna sea fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the stunning archipelago, which can be admired aboard relaxing cruises. No one in Helsinki is more than 10 kilometres away from the shore, no matter what part of the city you are in. This makes Helsinki quite exceptional among the world’s capitals. Helsinki’s archipelago is truly spectacular and within easy reach by ferry or cruise boat. New

Vallisaari Island © Meri Marttinen © Jussi Hellsten Helsinki Sauna Day © Eetu Ahanen islands have been opened to the public in recent years, including the idyllic island of Lonna just seven minutes from the mainland by ferry. This year the former military island of Vallisaari is also accessible to visitors, who will have the chance to enjoy its combination of unspoilt nature and historic fortifications. HELSINKI – CITY OF DESIGN AND INNOVATIVE FOOD CULTURE Design is everywhere in Helsinki, which was inaugurated as one of just 17 UNESCO Cities of Design in 2014 in recognition of how deeply design is ingrained in the city’s culture and activities. Traditional design is showcased throughout the city, especially in the Design District and the Arabia district, but also in the flagship stores of famous Finnish design brands and in the numerous smaller design boutiques. Helsinki is also characterised these days by its innovative food culture, a trend that shows no signs of slowing down. New restaurants pop up almost every month, and visitors can try new concepts along with the more traditional choices. There are four Michelin restaurants in Helsinki, as well as a flourishing culture of market halls and outdoor markets where visitors can sample Finnish flavours and seasonal specialities throughout the year. The Restaurant Day concept began in Helsinki and has since spread to over 70 countries, helping to accelerate the rise of the street food culture. During the last couple of years the appearance of food carts and food bikes on the streets of the city serving coffee and snacks – and even traditional Finnish porridge – to passersby has also become a trend. Helsinki is full of events throughout the year, from music festivals such as the Flow Festival in August to the wintery Lux Helsinki light festival in January. The mix of dynamic urban culture with the relaxing beauty of the surrounding nature will leave you refreshed and full of experiences. #visithelsinki #helsinkisecret visithelsinki.fi helsinkisecret.fi

W ELCOM E T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Ice swimming refreshes the body and the mind. >>> Aku Pöllänen / Visit Finland The Finnish way What is Finland all about? Pure nature or pure fun? Besides thousands of lakes, you’ll find quirky festivals and curious habits. YOUR GUIDEBOOK may already have told you all the serious stuff Finns are proud of. You can enjoy pure nature, the thousands of lakes and the wonderfully delicious wild berries. They are also always happy to tell you about the nation’s high-tech achievements – Nokia, Linux et cetera. Then there is the superb education system – ranked the best in the world – and excellent free health care. Finland is the world’s least corrupt country, the country with the freest press and comes first in the international prosperity index. Yes, it is a good country to live in and to visit. But where is all the fun, you might ask, where’s the adventure? All the things listed above are quite solemn, and may make one feel that Finland is a bit, well, bland or boring. Fortunately enough, there is more to Finland. Actually, the users of TripAdvisor have ranked Helsinki among the top five destinations on the rise in Europe. A land of one million saunas You could start your adventure into the other side of Finland by visiting a sauna. It is something you have perhaps heard about, as sauna is the only Finnish word to have entered the world vocabulary and with Santa Claus, one of the rare Finnish phenomena to have spread around the world. It is an institution and an important part of Finnish culture, tradition and everyday practises. The age-old tradition still has an important role in the lives of most of the Finns, who bathe there once a week or even more often. There are approximately one million saunas in Finland – one for every 5 inhabitants – and you can really see it: there is one in every fitness centre, hotel and public swimming pool. There are even bars and restaurants with saunas. A popular but sadly untrue saying goes that there are more saunas than cars in Finland! There is now even an event called Helsinki Sauna Day (www.helsinkisaunaday.fi) that opens the doors to the city’s saunas for everyone willing to visit them. Traditionally sauna has been a place for silence, and Finns are experts in the field. They have a high tolerance for silence – you can witness this in any form of public transport or similar gathering place. Finns do not generally or stereotypically have a great need for small talk. Do not be put out by this, because nearly everybody speaks good English and the overall willingness to help tourists is great. 10 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 11

CO WW E LE CL O MM E E A Finnish sauna is a heated room where naked people gather on wooden benches to enjoy the warmth of 70 to 150 degrees Celsius. In one corner of the room, there is a stove that generates the heat. Cold water is thrown for steam on the hot stones of the stove. An important part of Finnish culture for thousands of years, sauna keeps finding new ways of keeping itself alive in spite of urbanisation. It is not only a place to wash yourself or to relax, it is also a meeting place for friends, colleagues or political decision-makers. There is now even a sauna society in the Finnish embassy in Washington D.C., introducing high-temperature lobbying to the powers behind the scenes of Washington. In winter, the sauna experience is heightened by a roll in the snow or a dip in a hole in the ice. Ice swimming is popular in Finland, and there is also an ice swimming society, and iceswimming holes are maintained by other organisations, as well, even in the Helsinki area. Try it out for yourself at the centrally 12 Discover Helsinki located Kulttuurisauna (Hakaniemenranta 17). The minimalistic and modern sauna can offer you a zen-like experience. The latest addition to the city’s public saunas is a newcomer called Löyly at Hernesaarenranta 4. Run by two well-known Finnish actors, Löyly has three saunas and a restaurant right by the seaside. To par ty or not to par ty? If visiting a sauna left you cold or didn’t give you enough insight into Finnish mentality, perhaps you should witness Finnish holidays or festivals. The increased amount of light in spring makes the nation come out of its deep thaw. The most important holiday in spring is the two-day carnival-like celebration of May Day (in Finnish vappu). Especially May Day eve is celebrated with boisterous drinking and funny costumes. People have picnics in parks,

<<< Sauna is in an essential role in the Finnish way of living. Kari Ylitalo / Visit Finland drink sparkling wine and eat salty fish. The nation, in other times seemingly introverted and silent, shows an exuberant side of itself. While the overtly social May Day carnival fills the streets and parks of the city, the Finnish midsummer celebration makes Helsinki feel like a ghost town. Now it is time to go to the countryside and to burn bonfires at lakeside or by the sea. There are approximately half a million summer cottages in Finland (nearly one for every 10 citizens), and each and every one of them is in use in Midsummer. Again, it is the eve that has the bigger role in the celebrations. A typical Midsummer’s Eve includes a sauna bath, swimming, grilling and having a few drinks. Wife-carr ying and mobile-throwing Finland is home to some of the most eccentric festivals in the world. What’s more, a number of them have world championships status. Take, for example, the Wife Carrying World Championships taking place now for the 21st time in Sonkajärvi in early July. Today it is a two-day event with a team competition besides the main wife carrying championships. The rules are simple: the fastest man carrying his wife on his back is the winner, plus there are special prizes for the most entertaining couple, the best costume and the strongest carrier. Naturally, in the land of Nokia, there has to be a mobile phone related competition. You guessed right. Mobile Phone Throwing World Championships, taking place in Savonlinna, Eastern Finland in August. Be there, if you feel any frustration towards the modern technology – just watching the sport can be a purifying experience! There are officially two categories, one performed in the traditional style, i.e. throwing the mobile over the shoulder, and freestyle where you get points for aesthetics and creativity. Believe or not, Finland has great aspirations in football. In swamp football and snow football. The origins of swamp football are a bit obscure, but if the Finns are asked, it is a Finnish invention. At least the first Championships were played in Finland. It’s the same story with snow football – from a humble tournament into European Championships into World Championships. The both sports have their home in Kainuu in northern Finland. If you are interested in winter sports, maybe you’d like to visit the Yukigassen Snowball Fighting Competition? It is no horseplay but a serious sport with rules and referees. You have still time to prepare for the next European Championship taking place in Kemijärvi, northern Finland, in April. One can be wrong, but sometimes it seems like the farther up north you go, the crazier the events? Tango, karaoke and lots of garlic And then there is the Finn’s love for the tango. Tango? The hot, sensual and passionate dance usually associated with Latin America? Not exactly what comes to mind when you are thinking about a cold northern country. Actually, the Finnish tango is a melancholy cousin in the tango family, with mournful lyrics and minor keys to match. You can see (and hear) the tango phenomenon for yourself at the Seinäjoki Tango Festival, the largest annual Finnish summer festival. The event gathers some 130,000 tango fans every year to witness the election of the new Tango Queen and Tango King and to have a tango on the streets. Sadly enough, all the festivals and happenings listed above take place a good distance away from Helsinki and thus are not available for all visitors. Happily enough for those eager to study Finnish mentality, there are a couple of great places to go Finn-watching in the Helsinki area. You could try one the nation’s favourite pastimes, karaoke, at Karaoke Bar Pataässä (Snellmaninkatu 13). The bar is one of the most famous karaoke restaurants in Finland. The legendary bar offers you karaoke fever every night of the week. If you want to sing, make sure you are there early enough, because the place is often packed. After the karaoke, you may feel a bit peckish. Jaskan grilli (Dagmarinkatu) is highly recommended, with local celebrities, politicians and the hoi polloi alike standing in line for a greasy, extra garlicky snack in the middle of the night. If you are lucky and original enough you can get an item on the menu named after you; there are quite a few named after local politicians and other frequenters to the place. The place isn’t any old hot dog stand, but has become legendary during the years. It has even earned an article in the New York Times! Go ahead and visit it – you might even learn something more about Finland. ••• Discover Helsinki 13

AALTO SAUNA - PIHLAJASAARI ISLAND 30 300 ISLANDS. 31 SAUNAS.  AALTO SAUNA - An electrically heated sauna for 6 people. The sauna bathing area has seperate dressing, toilet, shower and sauna buildings. We recommend wearing towel or a bathing suit when staying outdoors in the area. - Enquiries and sauna booking tel. 09 310 71518 (The sauna can be booked daily from 30 May to 31 August 2016.) Price €60/2 hours. There is a regular boat service to the Pihlajasaari island. www.hel.fi/sports RASTILA CAMPING HELSINKI. 165 MODERN CARAVAN PITCHES. 22 COTTAGES. 80 TENT PITCHES ON GRASS. 5 SAUNAS. WELCOME! Karavaanikatu 4, 00980 Helsinki, Finland +358 9 310 78517 rastilacamping@hel.fi www.booking.com/rastila

#visithelsinki Fresh and surprising. Dynamic and lively. Enjoy the slow rhythm of urban Helsinki. Explore and be inspired! visithelsinki.fi Visit Helsinki Tourist Information Pohjoisesplanadi 19 FI-00099 City of Helsinki tel. +358 (0)9 3101 3300 Open daily in summer Mon-Sat 9-18, Sun 9-16 and in winter Mon-Fri 9-18, Sat-Sun 10-16

Events in HELSINKI 2016 JUNE 15.6.–31.8. Helsinki Organ Summer, music in various churches 16.–19.6. Taste of Helsinki, food festival, Kansalaistorin puisto park 17.–18.6. Sideways Festival, music festival, Abattoir 18.6. Helsinki Samba Carnaval, Senate Square 24.6. Seurasaari Midsummer Bonfires, Seurasaari Island 27.6.–3.7. Helsinki Pride, festival for sexual minorities 29.6.–2.7. EuroGames, sports event for sexual minorities, Helsinki Art Meets Sand, sand sculpture competition, Helsinki Zoo Espafolk Event, folk music and dances, Esplanade Park MeriViapori, wooden boat event, Suomenlinna Sea Fortress JULY 1.–2.7. Visio Festival, electronic music, Abattoir 1.–3.7. Tuska Festival, metal music festival, Suvilahti 3.7. Neil Young, concert, Hartwall Arena 3.–9.7. Windsurfing RS/X classes, European Championships Hernesaari 7.7. Monsters of Rock: Black Sabbath, concert, Kaisaniemi Park 11.–16.7. Helsinki Cup, international junior soccer tournament 15.–19.7. Summer Sound Festival, electro music festival, Messukeskus 16.–24.7. FIBA U20 European Championship, basketball, Ice Hall & Pasila Sports Hall 22.–26.7. Helsinki Fashion Week, fashion event, Helsinki 23.7. Holi Festival of Colours, music festival, Suvilahti 27.–30.7. Big Beers – Small Breweries, beer festival, Railway Square Jazz Espa, jazz concerts, Espa Stage, Esplanade Park AUGUST 1.8. Mini-Tattoo, military music, Senate Square 5.–6.8. Weekend Festival, techno music festival, Kyläsaari 5.–14.8. URB 16 – Urban Festival, Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma 6.8. Children’s Festival, programme for children, Hesperia Park 8.–18.8. Etno-Espa, Esplanade Park 12.–14.8. Flow Festival, urban festival, Suvilahti 13.8. Helsinki City Marathon, Finland’s biggest running event, also Mini Marathon for children 13.8. Viapori Trophy, sailing competition off of Suomenlinna 17.–28.8. Stage, international theatre festival, Korjaamo Culture Factory 18.–20.8. Delicacies of Finland and Syystober, food and beer festival, Railway Square 19.8.–4.9. Helsinki Festival, events throughout the city 22.–28.8. Poetry Moon, poem festival, Helsinki 24.–27.8. Viapori Jazz, Suomenlinna 25.8. Night of the Arts, cultural happenings fill the streets of Helsinki late into the evening 26.–27.8. We Love The 90’s, music festival, Suvilahti 27.8. Cleaning Day, flea markets all over the city Art goes Kapakka, cultural happenings in bars throughout the city Jazz Espa, jazz concerts, Espa Stage, Esplanade Park Kallio Block Party, urban festival, Kallio OpenHouseHelsinki, guided tours, Helsinki Seurasaari Folk Music Week, Seurasaari SEPTEMBER 1.–11.9. Helsinki Design Week, design event 2.9. Nickelback, concert, Hartwall Arena 2.–4.9. Helsinki Comics Festival 15.–25.9. Love and Anarchy Film Festival, internationally current directors and themes at various cinema venues 23.–24.9. International Harald Andersén Chamber Choir Competition, Music Centre 26.–27.9. Justin Bieber, concert, Hartwall Arena 29.9.–30.10. Sirkus Finlandia, Kaisaniemi Park Irish Festival in Finland Tour de Helsinki, bicycle event

OCTOBER 2.–8.10. Herring Market, Helsinki’s oldest traditional event, Market Square 7.10. The Cure, concert, Hartwall Arena 9.10. Sailing Ship Day, Market Square 20.10. Placebo, concert, Hartwall Arena 20.–23.10. Helsinki International Porsche Horse Show, Helsinki Ice Hall 28.10. Kent, concert, Hartwall Arena 29.10. Helsinki Sauna Day, open sauna event 31.10. Jean-Michel Jarre, concert, Helsinki Ice Hall Carnival of Light, Linnanmäki Amusement Park NOVEMBER 8.–13.11. Etnosoi! World Music Festival, Helsinki 11.11. Procol Harum, concert, Finlandia Hall 20.11. Opening of the Christmas Street, Aleksanterinkatu Baltic Circle – International Theatre Festival Joulumaailma – Christmas Market, Kolmen sepän aukio, Kaivopiha Moving in November Dance Festival, modern dance Nov-Jan Winter Circus, Dance Theatre Hurjaruuth, Cable Factory DECEMBER 4.–22.12. Helsinki Christmas Market, Senate Square 6.12. Finnish Independence Day, ceremonial events and festivities 8.12. Manhattan Transfer, concert, Finlandia Hall 11.12. Seurasaari Christmas Path, Seurasaari Open-Air Museum 13.12. Lucia Day, festivities and parade from Helsinki Cathedral to Finlandia Hall 31.12. New Year’s Eve celebrations, music, fireworks, Senate Square We Jazz, jazz festival, Helsinki 2017 JANUARY 5.–9.1. Lux Helsinki, light festival, Helsinki DocPoint – Helsinki Documentary Film Festival, various cinemas Epiphany at Suomenlinna, Suomenlinna Sea Fortress FEBRUARY 16.2. Parade of Graduating Students, incl. along the Esplanade Musica nova Helsinki, contemporary music festival Red Pearl Women’s Clown Festival, Dance Theatre Hurjaruuth Side Step Festival, dance festival, Cable Factory MARCH 29.3.–2.4. World Figure Skating Championships Hurraa! Theatre Festival for Children and Youth, Helsinki, Espoo, Vantaa Kirkko Soikoon! Church Music Festival, various churches Season Film Festival, Bio Rex, Maxim StreatHelsinki, food festival, Helsinki Viapori Winter Blues Festival, Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress Helsinki Coffee Festival, Cable Factory Ruutia! Dance Festival for children and young, Dance Theatre Hurjaruuth MAY 1.5. May Day, student and national celebrations, including traditional picnics in Kaivopuisto Park Cirko – Helsinki Contemporary Circus Festival, Cirko Centre Cleaning Day, flea markets all over the city Helsinki City Run, half marathon Lovely Helsinki, city festival, Helsinki Marimekko Fashion Show, Esplanade Park Restaurant Day, a day when anyone can open a restaurant for a day, Helsinki Women’s 10K Fun Run – start from Töölö Sports Hall World Village Festival, world music, Kaisaniemi Park JUNE 12.6. Helsinki Day, birthday events throughout the city in Esplanade Park, Senate Square Helsinki Samba Carnaval, Senate Square Les Lumières – Enlightenment Cultural Festival, Suomenlinna Sea Fortress Helsinki Marketing Ltd. cannot be held responsible for changes. APRIL 14.4. Via Crucis –Stages of the Cross, Kaisaniemi Park–Senate Square 15.4. Easter Bonfires, Seurasaari Open-Air Museum 30.4. May Day Eve Celebration – students give Havis Amanda a wash and her graduation hat at 6 pm, Market Square Helsinki Beer Festival, Cable Factory More information about events at: www.visithelsinki.fi

ГЛАВНЫЕ МЕРОПРИЯТИЯ День Хельсинки, 12. июня 2016 По случаю своего дня рождения Хельсинки наполняется мероприятими. www.helsinkipaiva.fi/ru Хельсинкская неделя дизайна, 1.–11. сентября 2016 Вдохновитесь новейшими свершениями в области дизайна, моды и архитектуры! www.helsinkidesignweek.com Фестиваль еды Taste of Helsinki, 16.–19. июня 2016 www.tasteofhelsinki.fi Хельсинкский фестиваль комиксов, 2.–4. сентября 2016 Празднование дня Ивана Купалы по-фински, 24.–25. июня 2016 С финскими обычаями празднования «Юханнуса» можно ознакомиться к примеру, на острове Seurasaari на Кострах Ивана Купала. Кинофестиваль Любовь и анархия, 15.–25. сентября 2016 Фестиваль тяжелой музыки Tuska Festival, 1.–3. июля 2016 Крупнейший в Северной Европе фестиваль тяжелой музыки под открытым небом. www.tuska-festival.fi Фестиваль электронный музыки Summer Sound Festival, 15.–19. июля 2016 www.summersound.fi Чемпионат Европы по баскетболу FIBA U20, 16.–24. июля 2016 Фестиваль техно-музыки Weekend Festival, 5.–6. августа 2016 www.wknd.fi Фестиваль урбанизма URB 16, 5.–14. августа 2016 www.kiasma.fi/ru Урбанистический фестиваль Flow Festival, 12.–14. августа 2016 Фестиваль музыки и городской культуры ежегодно привлекает тысячи гостей. www.flowfestival.com Хельсинкский фестиваль, 19.8.–4.9.2016 Крупнейший фестиваль искусств в Финляндии. www.helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi/ru Ресторанный день, август 2016 В этот день любой может открыть свой ресторан. Устраивается четырежды в год. www.restaurantday.org День уборки, 27. августа 2016 Блошиный рынок разворачивается по всему городу. Устраивается дважды в год. www.siivouspaiva.com Ярмарка салаки, 2.–8. октября 2016 Старейшее традиционное мероприятие Хельсинки призывает горожан и рыбаков со всей Финляндии на Торговую площадь. Карнавал света в Парке аттракционов Линнанмяки, 8.-22. октября 2016 День сауны Helsinki Sauna Day, 29. октября 2016 Устраивается дважды в год. Официальное открытие Рождественской улицы, 20. ноября 2016 Джазовый фестиваль We Jazz Festival, 5.-11. декабря 2016 Международный ежегодный джазовый фестиваль. www.wejazz.fi Фестиваль света Lux Helsinki, 5.–9. января 2017 Яркие световые инсталляции на фестивале Lux Helsinki создают ощущение чуда среди зимней темноты. www.luxhelsinki.fi Фестиваль уличной еды StreatHelsinki, март 2017 Фестиваль блюза Viapori Winter Blues в Суоменлинна, март 2017 Фестиваль Очаровательный Хельсинки, май 2017 Городской фестиваль посвящён весне, лету и яркому городу Хельсинки. «День Хельсинки», 12 июня 2017 Taste of Helsinki, 15.-18. июня 2017 Также многие другие мероприятия на www.visithelsinki.fi/ru Новинки 2016 года 1 ДИЗАЙН-САУНА LÖYLY Масштабный деревянный комплекс с публичными саунами, рестораном, террасой и великолепным морским видом. www.loylyhelsinki.fi 2 МОРСКОЙ БАССЕЙН ALLAS С лета 2016 круглогодичный морской оазис расположится напротив Торговой площади. В конце июня откроются песчаные берега, кафе на террасе и спортивные помещения, а в августе – сауны, понтонный пирс с плавательными бассейнами, ресторан и шоурум Cleantech Finland. С весны 2017 также оздоровительные и культурные услуги. www.helsinkiallas.fi 3 ОСТРОВ ВАЛЛИСААРИ Нетронутая природа, старинные постройки и изумительные морские пейзажи. + Island Hopping – Посещение трех островов: Лонна, Суоменлинна и Валлисаари по цене одного билета на паром! 4 ДЕНЬ САУНЫ HELSINKI SAUNA DAY День откроет частные сауны финской столицы для всех. Мероприятие проходит дважды в год. www.helsinkisaunaday.fi Городские велосипеды уже на улицах Хельсинки! www.hsl.fi/en/citybikes Центр сладостей Fazer предлагает услуги магазина, кафе, конференц-зала и экскурсии по шоколадной фабрике. Открытие осенью 2016. www.fazer.fi

ПОСМОТРИТЕ ХОТЯ БЫ ЭТО! МОРСКАЯ КРЕПОСТЬ СУОМЕНЛИННА Излюбленное место жителей Хельсинки и гостей города - Суоменлинна (Свеаборг) является всемирным наследием ЮНЕСКО. Крепость пережила много исторических событий, поэтому здесь есть что посмотреть: пушки, 6 км крепостных стен, гроты, туннели, подводная лодка. Также открыты музеи, кафе и рестораны. Развлечений хватит на целый день! Суоменлинна принимает своих гостей круглый год, а добраться до нее можно всего за 15 минут на пароме, отправляющегося от Торговой площади. www.suomenlinna.fi/ru P.S. ТАКЖЕ НЕ ПРОПУСТИТЕ Интереснейшие музеи, многочисленные парки и публичные сауны! Подробнее обо всем на www.visithelsinki.fi/ru ТУРИСТИЧЕСКОЕ БЮРО VISIT HELSINKI Pohjoisesplanadi, 19, 00100 Хельсинки, tел.: +358 9 3101 3300 График работы: 15.5.-14.9. пн.-сб. 9–18, вс. 9–16; 15.9.-14.5. пн.-пт. 9–18, сб.-вс. 10–16 ЗООПАРК КОРКЕАСААРИ Коркеасаари был основан в 1889 году и является одним из старейших зоопарков в мире. Тут можно познакомиться примерно со 150 видами животных и почти 1000 видами растений. Наиважнейшей задачей зоопарка является защита видов, находящихся под угрозой исчезновения. Зоопарк Коркеасаари открыт 364 дня в году. www.korkeasaari.fi КАРТА-БУКЛЕТ «ДЕТСКИЙ ХЕЛЬСИНКИ» ТЕПЕРЬ И В МОБИЛЬНОЙ ВЕРСИИ! В мобильной карте собраны детские площадки, музеи, магазины и блошиные рынки, кафе и рестораны, скейт-площадки и другие интересные места развлечения. Откройте для себя мобильную версию карты пройдя по данному QR-коду, а карманную карту со спецпредложениями и полезными советами можно приобрести в туринфо Хельсинки. Контактные данные ниже. ФОТО: Lauri Rotko, Jussi Hellsten, Mari Lehmonen, фото-банк Visit Helsinki, медиа-банк Visit Finland. ПАРК АТТРАКЦИОНОВ ЛИННАНМЯКИ Парк аттракционов Линнанмяки является самым первым и популярным парком аттракционов Финляндии, а также он крупнейший по количеству аттракционов парк развлечений во всей Северной Европе. Линнанмяки принадлежит фонду «День защиты детей», а вся прибыль, полученная от продаж, передаётся на благотворительные цели. Проводя день в парке аттракционов не забудьте также посетить Океанариум SEA LIFE, находящийся на территории парка. www.linnanmaki.fi/ru ДИЗАЙН В ХЕЛЬСИНКИ В 2014 году Хельсинки был признан Креативным Городом Дизайна ЮНЕСКО и по сей день город гордо несет этот титул. Побывав в Хельсинки обязательно ознакомьтесь с Кварталом дизайна (Helsinki Design District), который был основан в 2005 году представителями сферы творческой индустрии. Район включает в себя 25 улиц и почти 200 участников проекта. Здесь расположились ювелирные мастерские, студии дизайна и антикварные салоны, галереи и музеи, рестораны, отели и архитектурные бюро. www.designdistrict.fi

INFO RM AT I ON English is the most commonly used language for international communication in Finland. >>> T E XT BY M A RKU S LE HT I PUU Finnair Gallery Visitor information Информация для гостей города Business Hours Shop opening hours were deregulated in 2016 and shop owners are allowed to set their opening hours freely. However, department stores and many chain stores are normally open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 6 or 7 p.m. on Saturdays, and from 12 noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Many stores close at 6 p.m. days before public holidays. On Finnish public holidays, almost all stores are closed. However some food stores located under Helsinki Central Railway Station and at the Kamppi bus terminal will keep their doors open. Post offices are open from 9 a.m. to 6 or 8 p.m. on weekdays. Open-air markets begin trading at 6.30 a.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and close at 3 p.m. The Helsinki Market Square stays open until 4 p.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and it is also open on summer Sundays. Р а бо чи е ча с ы Рабочие часы магазинов были пересмотрены в 2016 году и теперь их владельцы имеют право свободно регулировать график работы. Как бы там ни было, универмаги и торговые сети обычно работают с 9 утра и до 9 вечера с понедельника по пятницу, с 9 утра и до 6 или 7 вечера по субботам, а также с 12 дня и до 6 вечера по воскресеньям. Накануне официальных выходных многие магазины закрываются уже в 6 вечера, а в сами праздничные дни не работают вообще. Исключением являются продуктовые супермаркеты, расположенные под Центральным ж/д вокзалом, а также на автовокзале Камппи. Почта работает с 9 утра до 6 или 8 вечера по будням. Уличные рынки открыты по будням и субботам с 6.30 до 3 дня. Торговая площадь Хельсинки, в свою очередь, работает до 4 дня с понедельника по субботу, а летом также и по воскресеньям. Climate Helsinki has four distinct seasons. The light-drenched, warm summer contrasts sharply with the dark, cold winter. The main tourist season extends from May to September. You can count on plenty of light, but the weather can vary from torrential rain to long heat waves. Be prepared for anything! In summer, the temperature is from +15 to +25 °C, even to +30 °C. However, rain and northerly winds can cause the temperature to drop suddenly. It is usually frosty in winter, but there are often temperate days. The proximity of the sea makes Helsinki a humid city. This should be taken into account particularly in the spring, when the sea is cold and the chilly wind can cause nasty colds. 20 Discover Helsinki

Климат В Хельсинки отчетливо выражены четыре времени года. Солнечное теплое лето резко контрастирует с холодной зимой, когда световой день очень короток. Туристический сезон в основном длится с мая по сентябрь. Гости города могут рассчитывать на большое количество солнечных дней, но продолжительные жаркие периоды могут сменяться проливными дождями. Будьте готовы ко всему! Летом температура варьируется от +15 до +25 °C, поднимаясь иногда до +30 °C. Однако во время дождя и при северном ветре она может резко упасть. Зима обычно морозная, но часто температура бывает вполне комфортной. Из-за близости моря климат в Хельсинки влажный. Об этом следует помнить, прежде всего, весной, когда с холодного моря дует пронизывающий ветер и есть риск основательно промерзнуть. Currency Finland is one of the European Union countries using the euro. Notes are issued in the following denominations: 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 euros. The coins are 2 and 1 euros, and 50, 20, 10 and 5 cents. You are able to exchange your currency into euros at any bank or bureau de change. Ва л ю т а Финляндия принадлежит к числу стран Европейского Союза, которые ввели у себя единую валюту – евро – с 1999 года. С 1 марта 2002 года евро является единственной валютой, имеющей законное хождение в Финляндии. Существуют банкноты достоинством в 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 и 5 евро, а также монеты достоинством в 2 и 1 евро, 50, 20, 10 и 5 центов. Евро можно купить в любом банке или обменном пункте. Discover Helsinki 21

INFORM AT I ON Customs Usually only random customs checks take place among travellers landing in Finland, particularly if your journey commenced in another European Union member state. Please note that strictly defined restrictions apply to the import of alcohol and cigarettes. Details are available on ferries and aeroplanes. Там ожня Прибывающие в Финляндию, особенно из других стран Европейского Союза, редко подвергаются выборочному таможенному досмотру. Следует обратить внимание на ограничения, касающиеся ввоза алкоголя и сигарет. Подробности можно узнать на пароме или в самолете. Emergency Travellers are advised to take out comprehensive travel insurance. This will allow the quickest and most appropriate treatment in private clinics, which are otherwise prohibitively expensive. For general emergencies, phone 112. Medical services in Helsinki are efficient, but the options and waiting times vary considerably. For serious injuries and other medical emergencies, phone the Helsinki University Central Hospital (HYKS, tel. 09 4711), which will direct you to the appropriate hospital. In the event of less urgent medical problems, contact the nearest medical centre (terveysasema). Each visit costs EUR 16,40. Private doctors are listed in the Yellow Pages under Lääkärikeskuksia. 24-hour dental emergency care is provided by Royal Dent (tel. 0440 111 422, Mannerheimintie 47 C 1) and Stardent (tel. 0600 065 000, Mannerheimintie 62 and Vilhovuorenkatu 3) Куд а об ращ аться в чр езв ы ча й н ы х си т уа ц и ях Рекомендуем приобретать полную страховку для выезжающих за рубеж. Это даст возможность оперативно получить надлежащее лечение в частных клиниках: в других случаях его стоимость будет запредельно высока. Единый номер телефона экстренных служб — 112. В Хельсинки вам окажут эффективную медицинскую помощь, однако набор услуг и время ожидания могут сильно различаться. При получении серьезной травмы и в других чрезвычайных ситуациях медицинского характера звоните в Центральную клинику Хельсинкского университета (HYKS, тел. 09 4711), где вас направят в нужную больницу. 22 Discover Helsinki При менее срочных проблемах обращайтесь в ближайший медицинский центр (terveysasema). Каждое обращение обойдется вам в 16,40 евро. Список частнопрактикующих врачей есть в “Желтых страницах” (раздел Lääkärikeskuksia). Круглосуточная стоматологическая помощь оказывается в клиниках Royal Dent (тел. 0440 111 422, Mannerheimintie, 47 C 1) и Stardent (тел. 0600 065 000, Mannerheimintie, 62 и Vilhovuorenkatu, 3). Grocer y Stores You can buy groceries daily until 10 p.m. or midnight in the Asematunneli underground arcade at the central railway station or at the Kamppi bus terminal. Some of the supermarkets stay open for 24 hours a day. Discount shops such as Alepa generally have lower prices. Big chains also offer special discounts on selected items from time to time. For the widest choice, try major department stores such as Stockmann or Sokos. Пр оду к т ов ые ма га з и н ы Продукты питания можно приобрести ежедневно до 10 вечера или полуночи в подземном комплексе Асематуннели Центрального ж/д вокзала, а также рядом с автобусным терминалом Камппи. Некоторые супермаркеты работают круглосуточно. В дисконтных магазинах, таких как Alepa, продукты обычно продаются по более низким ценам. Время от времени большие торговые сети также предлагают скидки на те или иные виды продукции. Если же вас интересует широкий выбор, то стоит заглянуть в крупные торговые дома, такие как Stockmann и Sokos. Helsinki Card Admission to all the main sights, free travel on public transport and much else is included in the price of this “smart card” for discerning tourists... Adults: 44 euros (1 day), 54 euros (2 days), 64 euros (3 days). Children aged 7 to 16: 22 euros (1 day), 27 euros (2 days), 32 euros (3 days). Helsinki Cards are sold at the Helsinki City Tourist Office, most hotels, Stockmann department store and some newspaper kiosks (R-kioski) in the city centre. Ка р т а гос т я Хе л ь с и н к и Самые предусмотрительные туристы могут приобрести эту смарт-карту. Она предоставляет право посещения всех

26 основных достопримечательностей и бесплатного проезда на общественном транспорте, а также дает многие другие возможности. Стоимость карты для взрослых: 44 евро (1 день), 54 евро (2 дня), 64 евро (3 дня), для детей от 7 до 16 лет: 22 евро (1 день), 27 евро (2 дня), 32 евро (3 дня). Internet Finland is a world leader in Internet access. Many places, including public libraries, many cafés and some university facilities allow you to surf the Net free of charge. There are also two free wireless connections, Helsinki City Open WLAN and NextMesh Wi-Fi. The safe and secure WLAN connections do not require signing in. И нтернет Финляндия является мировым лидером в области интернетдоступа. Бесплатный доступ в Интернет имеется во многих местах, в том числе в общественных библиотеках, кафе и некоторых университетских зданиях. Есть также две бесплатные сети, Helsinki City Open WLAN и NextMesh WiFi. Надежные и безопасные WLAN-соединения не требуют авторизации. Language English is the most commonly used language for international communication. Finland is officially a bilingual country, with 6 % of the population speaking Swedish. However, a number of Finns also speak German and French. The Finnish language is reputed to be extremely difficult. Indeed, as a non-Indo-European language, it does present a challenge to new learners. However, Finns will be pleased if you can master even just a couple of words. Have a go and make someone smile! Яз ык Английский – наиболее распространенный язык международного общения. В Финляндии два государственных языка: финский и шведский, для 6% населения родной язык шведский. Некоторые финны также говорят по-немецки и пофранцузски. Финский язык считается очень непростым: он не относится к индоевропейским языкам, и начинающим изучать его приходится трудно. Но любому финну будет приятно, если вы запомните хотя бы несколько финских слов. Попробуйте обрадовать кого-нибудь!

INFORM AT I ON Pharmacies Apteekki is the Finnish word for pharmacy. There are more than one hundred pharmacies in the Helsinki metropolitan area. The pharmacy located at Mannerheimintie 5 is open daily from 7 a.m. to midnight. There is a 24-hour pharmacy further north at Mannerheimintie 96. Аптеки По-фински “аптека” будет Apteekki. В Большом Хельсинки насчитывается более ста аптек. Аптека на Mannerheimintie, 5 открыта ежедневно с 7.00 до полуночи. Севернее, на Mannerheimintie, 96, находится круглосуточная аптека. Police To contact the police (poliisi), phone 112. There is a lost-property office at Pasilanraitio 13 (Tel. 0295 417 912). The central police station is also located at Pasilanraitio 13 (Tel. 0295 417 922). Поли ц ия Для вызова полиции (poliisi) наберите 112. Бюро находок располагается по адресу: Pasilanraitio, 13 (тел. 0295 417 912). Центральное отделение полиции находится на Pasilanraitio, 13 (тел. 0295 417 922). Post Offices There are many post offices in the city centre. The main post office and the poste restante are located in the large yellow Postitalo building between the central railway station and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma at Elielinaukio 2 F (Tel. 0200 71 000). The place is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays and 12 noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays. Поч товы е отделен и я В центре города много почтовых отделений. Главный почтамт и отделение для корреспонденции до востребования находятся в большом желтом здании Postitalo, расположенном между Центральным железнодорожным вокзалом и Музеем современного искусства Киасма на Elielinaukio, 2 F (тел. 0200 71 000). Часы работы — с 8.00 до 20.00 (понедельник — пятница), с 10.00 до 14.00 (суббота) и с 12.00 до 16.00 (воскресенье). There are automatic toilets on several locations, for example in Esplanade Park and in Sibelius Park. The price is EUR 0.50. Об щ е с т в е н н ые т у а л е т ы Бесплатные туалеты находятся в универмаге Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu, 52) и торговом центре Forum (Mannerheimintie, 14–20, первый этаж). В некоторых местах поставлены автоматические туалеты, например, в парке на Эспланаде и в парке Сибелиуса. Тариф — 0,50 евро. Sales Tax Refunds In Finland, VAT is usually charged at the comparatively high rate of 24 %. Upon leaving the country, tourists from countries outside the European Union can obtain a refund of 10–17 % of the purchase price of goods bought in Finland. VAT on books, food and certain other products is lower, which also reduces the size of the rebate for these goods. VAT refunds cannot be obtained for products costing less than 40 euros. Always ask before making your purchase! Shops participating in the VAT refund scheme are marked with stickers bearing the slogan “TAX FREE FOR TOURISTS”. You will be given a special receipt. To claim your refund, you must present this receipt at the refund window at the customs post when leaving the country. Воз в р а т н а л ога н а доб а в л е н н у ю с т ои мос ть В Финляндии налог на добавленную стоимость довольно высок – 24 %. Покидая страну, туристы из стран, не входящих в Европейский Союз, могут вернуть 10–17 % от стоимости покупок, сделанных ими в Финляндии. Ставка НДС на книги, продовольственные и некоторые другие товары ниже указанной цифры, соответственно, и возвращаемая сумма в этом случае будет меньше. Возврат НДС не производится при стоимости товара менее 40 евро. Перед покупкой необходимо выяснить, производится ли возврат НДС для товаров из данного магазина. В таких магазинах имеется объявление: TAX FREE FOR TOURISTS. При покупке вам выдадут квитанцию. При выезде из страны необходимо предъявить ее в окно возврата НДС на таможне. Shoe repairs Public toilets You can find free restrooms at Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52) and Forum shopping centre (Mannerheimintie 14–20, ground floor). 24 Discover Helsinki If you have broken a heel or your shoes need new heel tips or some urgent stitching, you can get your shoes repaired at the Forum and Kamppi shopping malls or at the Helsinki Main Railway Station.

78 По чинка обуви Если вам нужно починить сломавшийся каблук, поставить набойку или заплатку, вы найдете обувные мастерские в торговых центрах Forum и Kamppi, а также на Центральном железнодорожном вокзале. Tap Water The quality of tap water in Finland is good, and it is safe to drink. Во допроводная в о д а Водопроводная вода в Финляндии хорошего качества и пригодна для питья. Shop Helsinki Gift & Souvenir Factory Shop Taxes And Tipping Price tags and prices displayed include all taxes. International plane tickets represent the only exception: so-called airport taxes are usually added to the price of the ticket. Even the prices on restaurant menus already include the service charge. Tips are not expected or required. Should you, however, wish to tip your waiter, the gesture will of course be appreciated! There is no need to tip taxi drivers, but you can naturally tip them for good service. Налоги и чаевы е Объявленные цены включают в себя все налоги. Единственное исключение – билеты на международные авиарейсы: к их цене обычно прибавляется так называемый аэропортовый сбор. В настоящее время даже цены в меню ресторанов включают в себя плату за обслуживание: чаевых никто не ждет и не требует. Если вы, однако, решите отблагодарить официанта, ваш жест будет оценен должным образом. Таксисты также не требуют чаевых, но, разумеется, их можно дать в качестве благодарности за хорошую работу. Telephone Most Finns use a mobile phone. There are several GSM operators in Finland and the range of coverage is approximately the same in the Helsinki area. In practice, you can use all the European mobile phone frequencies in Helsinki. However, finding a pay phone can be difficult. Finland has 13 area codes. Each area code starts with a zero. For directory enquiries, phone 118. If you are calling internationally, the most common prefixes are 00, 990 and 999, each giving slightly different rates for international calls. 5 Prices from € Shop Helsinki is a souvenir shop in the heart of Helsinki. We are located on ground level in the gateway from Kamppi shopping centre to Forum shopping centre. Access also from Narinkkatori square. Address: Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki, tel. 0400-724633. Find directions from Google maps, just search Shop Helsinki - Mikebon

71 The largest gift & souvenir shop in Helsinki. Christmas shop & showroom downstairs. Moomin shop on the ground oor. FINNISH DESIGN HANDICRAFTS SOUVENIRS KNITWEAR Pohjoisesplanadi 35, tel:(09) 626 182, Open Mon-Sat 10 - 19, Summer Sundays

Helsinki offers superb services to tourists. Те леф онная связь Большинство финнов пользуются мобильными телефонами. В Финляндии есть несколько мобильных операторов, использующих стандарт GSM. Зона покрытия каждого из них в районе Хельсинки приблизительно одинакова. В Хельсинки можно использовать телефоны, подключенные в других странах Европы и работающие на любой частоте. Телефонавтомат при этом найти достаточно сложно. В Финляндии есть 13 телефонных кодов, соответствующих различным регионам страны. Каждый из них начинается с 0. За справками по поводу кода обращайтесь по тел. 118. Для звонков за границу используются в основном коды 00, 990 и 999, причем стоимость звонка при использовании каждого из них слегка различается. Tourist Offices Helsinki offers superb services to tourists. The city employs a team of “Helsinki Helps” -guides who patrol the streets in teams of two, ready to assist. These friendly guides also carry useful literature. You will recognise them by their green uniforms. The invaluable Helsinki City Tourist & Convention Bureau is located at Pohjoisesplanadi 19 (Tel. 09 3101 3300). Drop in for maps, brochures and details of current events. Here you can also book a guided tour, a hotel room, and tickets for various events. The Tourist Information also takes guided tour bookings and sells Helsinki Cards and even travel tickets. In summer, the office is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday, and from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays. In winter, the opening hours are from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays. There are various other useful information sources in Helsinki. During the summer months, the Tourist & Convention Bureau places its mobile Info Container at the Market Square. It provides tips, advice, and the main Helsinki tourism brochures and maps. There is a tourist information point at Helsinki Central Railway Station, which also houses the Helsinki Expert Shop, a travel agency that sells tickets for sightseeing tours and excursions and offers guide booking. The city of Helsinki runs an information point, Virka Info, at Helsinki City Hall at Pohjoisesplanadi 11–13. This office caters to both permanent residents and visitors to Helsinki. Kompassi, an information centre for young people, is located at Malminkatu 28. Ту р и с т и ч е с к и е б ю р о Обслуживание туристов в Хельсинки находится на высоком уровне. Существует служба под названием Helsinki Help: гиды, готовые оказать помощь, передвигаются по городу группами по двое, имея при себе полезные для туристов печатные материалы. Этих гидов можно опознать по зеленой форме. Неоценимую помощь может оказать Городское туристическое бюро (Helsinki City Tourist & Convention Bureau), расположенное по адресу: Pohjoisesplanadi, 19 (тел. 09 3101 3300). Там можно получить карты и брошюры, узнать о происходящих в городе событиях, а также заказать экскурсию по городу, номер в отеле, билеты на культурные мероприятия. Бюро принимает также предварительные заказы на экскурсии по городу. В туристическом бюро Хельсинки можно оставить заказ на экскурсию с гидом, купить карту Helsinki Card или приобрести проездной билет. Летом офис работает с 9 утра до 6 вечера по будням и субботам, а также с 9 утра и до 4 вечера по воскресеньям. Зимой офис открыт с 9 утра и до 6 вечера по будням, а также с 10 утра и до 4 вечера по воскресеньям. В Хельсинки есть и другие места, где предоставляется полезная информация. Летом на Рыночной площади для туристов устанавливается мобильный информационный стенд, где можно получить различные подсказки, советы, а также основные туристические брошюры и карты города. На Центральном вокзале Хельсинки имеется информационное бюро для туристов, в котором также размещается офис Helsinki Expert - туристического агентства, предлагающего экскурсии по городу, в том числе обзорные, и услуги гидов. Хельсинкскому муниципалитету принадлежит информационное бюро Virka Info (Pohjoisesplanadi, 11–13): его услугами пользуются как жители, так и гости города. Kompassi, информационный центр для молодежи, размещается на Malminkatu, 28. ••• Discover Helsinki 27

TRAN SP ORT An easy and inexpensive sightseeing tour in Helsinki can be done by tram. >>> T E XT BY M A RKU S LE HT I PUU Jussi Hellsten / Visit Finland Getting around Helsinki Helsinki is well served by public transport networks. You can start your exploration of the city’s many landmarks by taking tram no. 2 with its circular route. After the tram ride, you can try the metro, take a bus or even catch a ferry. Getting To And From The Airpor t Helsinki International Airport is located in Vantaa, thirty minutes from the city centre. Finnair buses run every twenty minutes from the airport to Elielinaukio at the central railway station in Helsinki. Tickets cost EUR 6.30. The slower local bus (no. 615) costs just EUR 5.50. It stops at the square beside the railway station, Rautatientori. The new Ring Rail Line provides a train connection between the airport and the city centre. The modern, low-floor trains run every 10 minutes in the daytime. The journey from the airport to the central railway station takes about 30 minutes. Minibus services, including Airport Taxi (Tel. 0100 4800) and Yellow Line Airport Taxi (Tel. 0600 555 555), charge a lump sum for a whole group travelling from the airport to a single destination in the city. An ordinary taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost approximately 50 euros, depending on the exact destination. City Transpor t System Helsinki Region Transport (HSL) provides an integrated service throughout the city. The standard ticket is valid on all forms of transport: trams, buses, metro, local trains and the ferry to Suomenlinna. Timetables and route maps are available from the HSL information offices free of charge. The main office, located at the central railway station, is open Monday to Thursday from 7.30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Fridays from 7.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. A single ticket costs EUR 3.20 and is valid for one hour. There is also a separate tram ticket that can be bought beforehand in ticket machines, which costs EUR 2.50 and is valid for one hour too. A Helsinki Card, which is valid throughout the HSL network, will solve all your transport worries at a stroke. There are also one, three and five-day tourist tickets available. Trams The residents of Helsinki are justly proud of their green-and-yellow trams, which clutter their way through the city centre at a leisurely pace. You can purchase a single tram ticket beforehand in ticket machines. The ticket costs EUR 2.50. 28 Discover Helsinki

20 8

Buses Helsinki is the hub of an extensive local bus network which extends out in all directions. The metro is most useful for travelling east. HSL buses are easily identified by their blue livery. The Helsinki Card and tickets issued by HSL are valid on all routes within the Helsinki area. You can buy a ticket from the driver and it is valid for one hour. A route map for the local buses is available from the tourist office and from the HSL offices. Metro A modern, immaculately clean metro runs from Ruoholahti in the south-west to Mellunmäki and Vuosaari in the north-east of Helsinki. The last train leaves the centre approximately at 11.30 p.m. The network remains modest, but has its points. For example, you can take the metro to one of the largest shopping centres in Scandinavia, Itäkeskus. Uniquely, the metro will also drop you off at the gates of the Rastila camping site maintained by the city of Helsinki. The Western Metro Extension will extend the metro line to the neighboring city of Espoo. It is expected to open for service in August, 2016. Trains The local trains all depart from Helsinki central railway station. There are three main lines: Riihimäki via Tikkurila (Tampere line), Kirkkonummi via Espoo (Turku line) and Vantaankoski via Myyrmäki. There are both fast trains and local trains that call at every station on the way. The Helsinki Card and tickets issued by HSL are valid within the greater Helsinki area. If you wish to travel further, you can buy a regional ticket (seutulippu) for EUR 5.50. Tickets are also sold on board by the conductor, who usually travels in the middle carriages. Taxis Finnish taxis are luxury cars. The price is never cheap, but it does buy you a comfortable ride in a Mercedes or equivalent! There are plenty of taxis on offer during quiet times, but long queues can build late at night. All Helsinki’s taxis are metered, with fixed rates. If you require a taxi, phone 0100 0700, it is a local taxi service. You can also call Kovanen, a private taxi and limousine company with 24/7 customer care, tel. 0200 6060, www.kovanen.com. Car Rental Renting a car is a good way to explore the area surrounding Helsinki. The main international car rental companies are rep- LUXURY T R AN SP O R TAT I O N S ER V I CES AIRPORT TRANSFERS PRIVATE SIGHTSEEING LIMOUSINE TAXI 24/7 www.kov an en .c om CU S TO M ER CA R E +3 5 8 (0) 2 00 6 06 0

TRAN SP ORT resented both at the airport and in the centre of Helsinki. Look under Autovuokraamoja (“Car Rental”) in the Yellow Pages. Bicycles Helsinki has excellent bicycle routes, and tours to outer suburbs are recommended. Bicycles can be rented from various locations in Helsinki, including Greenbike at Bulevardi 32 (greenbike.fi) and Ecobike at Savilankatu 1 b, next to the football stadium (ecobike.fi). Helsinki has brand new shared-use bicycles that you can borrow for a small fee. You can use the City bike for 30 minutes, or up to 5 hours for an extra charge. After your ride, the bike must be returned to one of the 50 bike stations located around the city centre. Boat Ser vices It is easy to overlook one of Helsinki’s main attractions: the extensive archipelago. In the summer, boat tours operate from the Market Square. A sunny summer day on the water – what better way of experiencing Helsinki? See page 50–55 for more information. A regular ferry service to the fortress island of Suomenlinna, run by HSL, departs from the Market Square approximately twice an hour. This service operates all the year round. The ticket costs the same as on the bus and metro, and the trip is absolutely free to holders of a Helsinki Card. Cardholders also travel free on the boat to Korkeasaari, a pretty island that is home to Helsinki Zoo. There are also numerous small islands south of Helsinki which are served by regular boats during the summer. Many have restaurants. See page 53-54 for more information. Sightseeing There are several companies arranging Hop-on hop-off sightseeing tours in Helsinki. Most of the buses have a stop at the Senate Square or nearby, although the routes vary. City Tour, for instance, shows you the best sights in Helsinki. If you are interested in a personified private tour for a smaller group, Kovanen offers you a luxuriously comfortable and easy way to experience Helsinki with a driver-guided tour, tel. 0200 6161, www.kovanen.com. The See Helsinki On Foot brochure gives you five walking routes around Helsinki. The brochure can be downloaded at www.visithelsinki.fi. A guided bike tour is a nice and eco-friendly way to discover Helsinki. Bike Tours Helsinki, among others, arranges sightseeing tours by bike. See www.biketourshelsinki.com for more information. 32 Discover Helsinki Private Flights Helsinki has no skyscrapers, so the only way to get a bird’s-eye view of the city is by private plane. You can also hire a private plane to fly to other parts of Finland and even abroad – certainly worth considering for urgent trips to the Baltic States or Russia. Espoo And Vantaa If you wish to travel beyond the Helsinki area by public transport, you need a regional ticket. It costs EUR 5.50 and is valid for one hour and twenty minutes. Timetables and route maps for buses and trains to Espoo and Vantaa are available free of charge from the HSL offices. Tikkurila, home to the Finnish Science Centre Heureka, is also accessible by local train. To visit the Serena Water Park, take bus no. 355T from Helsinki bus station. Alternatively, take bus no. 21 from Espoo Leppävaara railway station. To go to Nuuksio National Park, take bus no. 85 from Espoo Center. Flamingo Leisure World is the largest entertainment centre in Scandinavia with a shopping centre, cinema, spa, nightclub and various restaurants. It is located in Vantaa, quite nearby the airport. You can take the buses 415 or 614 from Helsinki bus station, although there is a short walk from the bus stop to Jumbo. You can ask the driver for instructions. Beyond Greater Helsinki Finland has an excellent public transport network. There are three competing airlines on the domestic routes, Finnair, SAS and Norwegian. The train services are efficiently run by the Finnish State Railways (VR). The network links Helsinki to all the major cities in Finland, including outlying towns in Lapland. National bus services are coordinated by the Matkahuolto company. In practice, all population centres are accessible by bus. There is also a budget bus company called OnniBus that offers cheap inter-city fares starting from just 1 €. Nearly 300 cruise ships with up to 400,000 passengers visit Helsinki every year. The cruise quays are located in Hernesaari, West Harbour, South Harbour, and Katajanokka. In summer, a more exotic form of transport is available in the form of dozens of vintage steamboats! Although many have relinquished steam in favour of a modern engine, a few genuine oldtimers continue to ply the waves. The lakes used to be a major transport route in Finland. Every summer, this tradition is revived – you can sail from Helsinki deep into the north by steamer.

The best way of travelling to Turku, Tampere and Hämeenlinna is by rail. For Porvoo, the bus is most convenient. For travellers heading for Lapland, there are daily flights to Rovaniemi, Ivalo and other destinations. If you plan to tour Finland, a thorough travel guide and a book of timetables are essential. Tailored excursions are also easy to arrange by contacting a travel agency. St. Petersburg in Russia is now nearer to Helsinki than ever before – the new Allegro train connection will take you to St. Petersburg in three and a half hours. The train has four departures a day, and border formalities are operated conveniently aboard the moving train. Catching A Ferr y Vast luxury ferries to Stockholm depart daily from Eteläsatama, in the centre of Helsinki, at 5 or 6 p.m. The Viking Line terminal is located at Katajanokka, and the Silja Line terminal is near Kaivopuisto Park. The express boats to Tallinn like Linda Line depart from near the Market Square. The car ferries to Tallinn, however, depart from Länsisatama, near Ruoholahti metro station. The terminal is also used by St Peter Line that has a regular ferry connection to St. Petersburg. ••• 7 Visiting friends or family, attending an event or taking a break to relax? Pack your bag and explore the beautiful landscape with Hertz. For enquiries and reservations: Hertz Helsinki City Office Runeberginkatu 5  020 555 2300 www.hertz.fi Hop on a city bike. See where you can find one hsl.fi/en/citybikes

2 OF FINL AND AND ESTONI A T WIN CAPITALS Eckerö Line connects Helsinki and Tallinn with fast, modern and convinient m/s Finlandia. Live entertainment, best buffet restaurant and plenty of shopping possibilities on board. Two daily departures from Helsinki, at 8.30 and 15.30. Take a Day cruise to Tallinn and you have seven hours to explore the city. ECKEROLINE.FI

24 Beautiful St. Petersburg is only a ferry ride away! myynti@stpeterline.com +358 9 6187 2000 @stpeterlinesuomi www.stpeterline.fi St. Peter Line Suomi St. Peter Line Suomi

SIG HTS T E XT BY T I M B I R D Helsinki’s traditional St. Thomas Christmas Market will be held at the Senate Square on December. >>> Jussi Hellsten / City of Helsinki Media Bank Attracted to Helsinki – Sights and attractions Helsinki is a pocket-sized city and its sights are almost within a walking distance. Still, there is plenty to see in Helsinki. IF YOU ARRIVE in Helsinki on one of the enormous cruise ferries from Stockholm, you will disembark in the South Harbour, in the heart of Helsinki and walking distance from many of its attractions. Set off in a straight line in almost any direction, and before long you will find yourself on a stretch of coast. Much of the city’s parkland, including the central favourite, Kaivopuisto, also spills down to the rocky shorelines of the Gulf of Finland. The historical area close to the South Harbour is also a good place to start an exploration of the city. When Finland was transferred from Swedish to Russian rule in 1809, the Tsarist rulers of the new Grand Duchy decided to switch the capital from Turku in the southwest to Helsinki. The architect Carl Ludvig Engel was commissioned to design a new city centre that would be fitting for a capital; the cluster of majestic neo-classical buildings that resulted, surrounding the Senate Square and close to the Market Square, remains Helsinki’s distinctive historic centre. The blindingly white Lutheran Cathedral, with its green domes and wide, sweeping steps leading down to the ample Senate Square and the statue of Alexander II, is probably Helsinki’s best-known and most admired symbol, while the columns and facades of the surrounding 19th century buildings are reminiscent of the imperial centre of St. Petersburg. Between the Senate Square and the Market Square are the Tori Quarters, historical buildings that are now being renovated. There are restaurants, shops and an indie movie theatre. The area is getting trendier and trendier by the minute. When you arrive at the Market Square, the fountain statue of Havis Amanda, the focus of student partying on May 1st, and the Kappeli restaurant and café at the eastern end of the Esplanade park are to your right as you approach the waterfront. Across the road to your left, the main Market Square – a bustle of colourful stalls in summer, and a huddle of canopies in winter – spills out across the cobbled quayside, while across the harbour to your right is the indoor Market Hall, where culinary delights are waiting for you. 36 Discover Helsinki

The Market Square (Kauppatori) is a central square in Helsinki and one of the most famous market places and tourist attractions in the city. >>> SIG H TS Lauri Rotko / City of Helsinki Media Bank From the Market Square, you can turn and admire the line of pastel-coloured historical buildings, from the calm blue of the City Hall to the creamy yellow of the President’s Palace. Nearby, and visible from the Market Square on the edge of the Katajanokka promontory, the red brick and golden cupolas of the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral are another reminder of Helsinki’s eastern heritage. This Cathedral has the most richly decorated interior of any church – and possibly any building at all – in the city, and makes a memorable and rewarding detour. The SkyWheel opposite the Cathedral is the newest landmark of Helsinki. A ride takes approximately 15 minutes and costs 12 euros. There will be a brand new outdoor sea pool complex called Allas Sea Pool next to the SkyWheel, opening this summer. The spa’s pools and saunas will be open year-round. Island beauty On the seaward horizon from the Market Square, you’ll catch a glimpse of the church tower that doubles as a lighthouse on the island fortress of Suomenlinna, and it is also from the Market Square that the passenger ferries depart for the fortress. Suomenlinna is Helsinki’s top tourist attractionand worth a visit at any time of the year. See the next article for more information on Suomenlinna. Another island attraction brimming with Finnish history, and also worth a visit in any season, is Seurasaari. The island holds Helsinki’s Open Air Museum of historic rural buildings, collected from around the country and reconstructed in a peaceful woodland setting. Another attraction here is the ban on most motor vehicles and even on bicycles, and the forested island is a relaxing haven from the bustle of the city. Watch out for the hungry and very tame squirrels as you explore the maze of footpaths crisscrossing the island. Windmills, granaries, entire mansions and manors, boathouses and other meticulously reassembled structures are dotted through the woods. Seurasaari is also the focus for traditional Midsummer bonfires, dancing and other celebrations, and the old church is a popular venue for weddings then and throughout the summer. Some sightseeing cruise boats leaving from the Market Square drop in at Seurasaari, but from the land you can reach it along a wooden causeway, close to the final stop of the No. 24 bus. Seurasaari is to the north of the city centre, and you can combine 38 Discover Helsinki a visit with a look at the previous home (now a museum) of the late President Urho Kekkonen, the architect of Finland’s post-war political policy. A branch of the Helsinki City Art Museum is nearby too, as are a couple of charming cafés, including the Tamminiemi Café, the interior of which is like an elegant scene from a play by Chekhov. E xplore architectural showpieces Heading back from Seurasaari, you pass close to several other main Helsinki attractions. One of these is the Sibelius monument, a tribute to Finland’s best-loved composer made from silver tubes that evoke the pipes of an organ. The monument is in the small Sibelius Park, close to a picturesque stretch of shoreline. The No. 24 bus back into town also goes through the Töölö area, close to the Temppeliaukio, known in English as “the Church in the Rock”. The National Romantic variation on the art nouveau Jugendstil theme is expressed in the turrets, rural motifs and quirky granite detail of the National Museum on Mannerheimintie 34 (Mannerheim street) and the National Theatre, fronted by the statue of the pensive, seated novelist and playwright Aleksis Kivi, in the Railway Station Square. As for the main Railway Station itself, no rail terminus in the world can match this creation by Eliel Saarinen for character and idiosyncrasy. Its arched façade, guarded on either side by two lamp-holding granite figures, has reminded more than one observer of an early radio set. Opposite the National Theatre, across the Railway Station Square, are the classical columns of the Ateneum Art Museum, one part of the Finnish National Gallery, housing Finnish works dating back three centuries from the mid-20th. Contemporary art of the Finnish National Gallery is housed in the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma, one of Helsinki’s more controversial and modern structures, adjacent to the main Post Office and the statue of the horse-borne Marshal Mannerheim. The space-age transparent cube of Sanomatalo, the headquarters of Finland’s biggest media group, is also nearby, and next to it the Helsinki music centre Musiikkitalo. The stern edifice of the Parliament, also on Mannerheimintie, was also extended with a modern annex. This whole area has undergone dramatic developments in recent years, and these changes to the city’s central profile are continuing, underlying Finland’s forward-looking dynamism.

SIG H TS Further along Mannerheimintie are a few more landmarks on the central Helsinki skyline. First is the Finlandia concert and congress hall, whose graceful white lines on the edge of the Töölönlahti bay and Hesperia park are the work of Finland’s most celebrated architect, Alvar Aalto. The less graceful, but no less striking Opera House is a further along the shore. A little way to the north is the white tower of the Olympic Stadium, the stage for the Helsinki 1952 Olympic Games and still the top outdoor sports venue. Your reward at the top of the tower is one of the best views of the city, from the dome of the Cathedral to the south to the administrative blocks of Pasila in the north. Attractions for children The amusement park at Linnanmäki is Finland’s most-visited attraction, and its spring opening is a major annual event on the calendar of Helsinki children. As well as a selection of rides and attractions of varying degrees of scariness, Linnanmäki houses Sea Life, an excellent aquarium and marine education centre. If you still have some energy left after a day at Linnanmäki, Tropicario, a tropical animal house is near by at Sturenkatu 27. Another big Helsinki attraction for children takes us back to the sea and the island zoo of Korkeasaari which you can reach by ferry from the Market Square and from the square at Hakaniemi, as well as by footbridge from Kulosaari in eastern Helsinki. Animals indigenous to the north, including elk, lynx and reindeer, are well represented, but there is a generous selection of exotica, such as camels, lions and snow leopards. The Natural History Museum at Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 13 is the third most popular museum in Finland. You can stop at the feet of a dinosaur or listen to the sounds of wild African animals. The Tram Museum (Töölönkatu 51 A) is located at the oldest tram depot in Helsinki. The museum houses a smallish but interesting collection of trams, and there are also old uniforms and tram tickets on show. You may step inside some of the old trams. Free entry. 41 Come and enjoy THE UNDERWATER ADVENTURE at SEA LIFE Helsinki! We are open every day excluding 24.-25.12.! SEE MORE: www.sealife.fi Tivolitie 10 00510 HELSINKI  +358 (0)9 5658 200

39 AT LINNANMÄKI eVerY DaY Is tHe besT dAy of tHe SuMMeR ToGeTHeR Bring the whole family, your sweetheart or a friend – Linnanmäki is so much better when you visit together! Here you can admire the new additions to the park, shriek with joy, laugh uncontrollably, enjoy sweet and savoury treats, and try out the largest selection of attractions in the Nordic countries. There is fun to be had and things to do to last you all summer – welcome to Linnanmäki! Find out what is on offer this season and pre-buy your wristbands: www.linnanmaki.fi/en The new additions to the park include something for everyone • The new main gate is cheery and colourful Free entry • The brand new Minimäki area offers heaps of fun with new attractions throughout • The rollercoaster Linnunrata eXtra, opening on 20th May, is the first in the season! the Nordic countries to offer a wild virtual ride • In the Cotton Candy School you get to make your own cotton candy under the instruction of Professor Socrutes • The new Games Vault and the Charity Wheel of Fortune will bring out your competitive streak • The new restaurants offer a huge variety of tasty experiences: Flores FreshMex, Lintsi American Diner, and café Hepo-Katti offering amazing views While having fun at Linnanmäki you are supporting Finnish child welfare work

SIG HTS Thousands of Helsinki families enjoy traditional outdoor fun and games every December at the Seurasaari Christmas Path. Jussi Hellsten / City of Helsinki Media Bank There are several free playgrounds in central Helsinki. The most centrally located playgrounds are quite small (for example, the ones at Vanha kirkkopuisto, Lönnrotinkatu 6 or Kaisaniemi park), but a few bus stops away from the centre you’ll find nice parks by the sea. At Kaivopuisto park (Puistokatu 4) there is a biggish playground with a sea view. The playground of Lahnalahti (Lauttasaarentie 40-42) is a gem: a playground next to a nice beach with a café. Take the bus no. 65 A towards Lauttasaari and ask the driver for instructions. If it should rain during your stay, try one of the indoor adventure parks. The ones nearest to the city centre are Snadistadi at the Ruoholahti Shopping Centre (Itämerenkatu 21, metro: Ruoholahti) and Helsingin leikkiluola / Helsinki Playground (Sörnäisten rantatie 6). The little ones can release their energy by running, bouncing, jumping and climbing. Huimala (Ajomiehentie 1), a bit off the cen42 Discover Helsinki tre, is an exclusive indoor adventure park for the whole family, open all-year round. Children can jump on trampolines or slide down the longest indoor slide in Finland, while older children and adults can ride thrilling zip-lines, step on the high ropes courses or climb the climbing walls up to almost 20 meters in height. Most of the department stores and shopping centres have play areas and childcare facilities. You can change diapers, heat up food and let the older kids play on the 6th floor at Stockmann, the 3rd floor of the Kamppi shopping centre or the newish 3rd floor of Forum shopping centre. If you wish to shop for something original for your kids, try Punavuoren Peikko (Uudenmaankatu 15) or Harakanpesä (Eerikinkatu 12) for stylish Scandinavian clothes. Ombrellino (Pohjoisesplanadi 17) is a tiny shop on a busy shopping street, brimming with wonderful toys. •••

37 THE NEW HUIMALA. 89% MORE FUN THAN EVER BEFORE. Huimala is an indoor family entertainment center for the whole family. Huimala offers an active day with trampolines, slides, climbing walls, a laser maze, high ropes courses, exclusive thrilling zip-lines and much more. For further information please visit huimala.fi

43 Come and enjoy the city of Helsinki and surrounding islands from the observation wheel! Original SkySauna will combine sauna in the sky with an amazing sea-view and a comfortable jacuzzi. You can rent the sauna experience for up to 20 people for your personal use. You have a chance to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Helsinki, experience the one of a kind sauna gondola, relax in the massaging jacuzzi and enjoy refreshing beverages in good company. For reservations and more information, please visit: www.skysauna.fi or contact info@skysauna.fi / +358 404 804 604 Katajanokanlaituri 2, 00160 Helsinki I +358 40 480 4604 I info@skywheel-helsinki.com

31 32 Sea and fresh water pools and saunas in the center of Helsinki www.allasseapool.fi @allasseapool Terrace café with garden and beach areas open in late June, pools and saunas in August 2016. In cooperation: You can find us next to the Market Square. Swimsuits and towels available for rent. Open year-round.

42

35 +32 C 34 OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK, JUST 15 MINUTES FROM HELSINKI CITY CENTRE BY TRAIN

36 M I N I A T U R E G O L F • L A S E R M A Z E O B S T A C L E C O U R S E • C U R L I N G The miniature golf tracks at Hohtogolf West Coast are first of its kind in the whole of Europe. The groundbreaking special effects create a fun and exciting experience for families, groups of friends as well as for individual players as each put will yield something unexpected that’ll make you either laugh or scream, or both simultaneously! Our indoor minigolf center has 15 surprising tracks, 7 of which have horror movie theme special effects. As part of the golf tour, the center has a so called horror alley which creates a unique claustrophobic special effect. We offer perfect surroundings for memorable corporate events, birthdays for children and adults, bachelor parties, hen nights, first (or even fourth) dates or just a fun night out with friends. From our fully licensed bar you can take your drink to your “tour de golf”. LASERMAZE – OBSTACLE COURSE Book our super fun Lasermaze – Obstacle Course for your use and compete who clears the course in the fastest time! CURLING Book our exclusive VIP Curling room for your use and compete on a synthetic curling track to see who’s the best player! Hohtogolf West Coast, Helsinki Yrjönkatu 24, 00100 Helsinki helsinki@hohtogolf.fi Tel. +358 9 2519 1112 Only one block from Stockmann! Check prices and openin hours: Hohtogolf West Coast, Flamingo Tasetie 8, 01510 Vantaa flamingo@hohtogolf.fi Tel. +358 9 4289 0112 Only three kilometers from Helsinki-Vantaa Airport! www.hohtogolf.fi

44 k r a P r e p Su g n i v o m u gets yo nearly d n a 2 m 0 0 3 7 f ark o cked a p n io Indoor activity p t c a d n a n eatable fu b n u s r e ff o s ie it iv 30 act ire family. t n e e h t r fo e c n experie LOCATED IN VANTAA, NEAR BY THE EXCELLENT OUTLET SHOPPING OPPORTUNITIES OF TAMMISTO AREA. CHECK OUT THE ACTIVITIES AND OTHER INFORMATION: WWW.SUPERPARK.FI. Valimotie 13, 01510 Vantaa | Open daily at 11 am. – 8 pm.

The sea is an essential part of the personality of Helsinki. >>> SE A T E XT BY A R I L AH DE N MÄK I Julia Kivelä / Visit Finland Helsinki – Never far from water The coastal waters off Helsinki are dotted with islands of all shapes and sizes. It is not without reason that Helsinki is often dubbed “the Daughter of the Baltic”. THE BEST AND most traditional way to arrive in Finland’s capital is by sea. Solitary, rugged islets and skerries, often inhabited only by the gulls, come into view and hint at the proximity of land already many kilometres before you reach harbour. Then larger islands gradually appear to port and starboard. It is abundantly obvious one is arriving in an archipelago city. Discover living histor y The main fairway into Helsinki’s South Harbour passes through the narrow straight known as Kustaanmiekka (“Gustav’s Sword”). To the right the landscape of Vallisaari, owned by the Finnish Defence Forces, looks practically untouched, but to the left on the island of Kustaanmiekka itself it can be hard on a hot summer’s day to distinguish the outlines of the fortress walls for the thousands of tourists thronging the place. Kustaanmiekka is a part of one of Helsinki’s most popular sights, the naval fortress of Suomenlinna, the fascinating history and unique military architecture of which caused UNESCO to list the islands among its World Heritage sites. Work on the construction of Suomenlinna began in 1748, when Finland was still a part of the burgeoning kingdom of Sweden. Sweden wished to have a naval fortress to protect its eastern outpost from Russia, which posed a threat to Swedish dominance in the Northern Baltic. Helsinki in those days was a small and largely irrelevant town. The fort was given the name Sveaborg, and in Finnish it became known as Viapori. It was a city of its own, with a population considerably larger than that of Helsinki on the mainland. The cosmopolitan officer class at the garrison also maintained a lively cultural life on the islands, which still flourishes today. In 1808, despite their greater numbers and the relative impregnability of the fortifications, the forces on Viapori surrendered to the Russians. Next year, Finland became incorporated into Russia as an autonomous Grand Duchy. The fortifications and artillery, designed to guard against a threat from the east, would now look westwards instead. 50 Discover Helsinki

SE A

<<< The fortress of Suomenlinna is one of Helsinki’s most popular sights. It is only a very short ferry crossing away from the city centre. Prosi & Sulkumäki photo collection The effect is not the natural result of a liquid lunch or a lengthy dinner, but a memory from the previous use of the building: the floor was built on a slight continuous slope so that cannon balls could easily be rolled from the store to the guns. Under Russian rule, there was a large military garrison stationed on Viapori, with more than 13,000 soldiers at its highest point. Helsinki underwent a dramatic change, too: from 1812 it was made into the Grand Duchy’s new capital city. The former capital Turku was suddenly seen as “too close to Sweden for comfort”. Viapori witnessed yet more construction work, including a church. The original church was to serve the Orthodox faith, but when Finland declared herself independent in 1917 the traditional onion domes were removed and it was reconsecrated as a Lutheran place of worship. Interestingly, the church tower also contains a lighthouse, which still guides ships and aircraft into Helsinki. In 1918 the fortress islands were re-named Suomenlinna, “fortress of Finland”. The military importance of the fortifications gradually declined, and in 1973 Suomenlinna passed into the hands of a civil administration. Suomenlinna today These days Suomenlinna is home to families and artists and is a part of the City of Helsinki, with a total year-round population of about 900. Suomenlinna is also still an important cultural centre, with museums, galleries, restaurants, and cafés. The old shipyard is active in restoring wooden sailing vessels. Access to the islands is possible from Helsinki’s South Harbour, with a ferry plying the short distance from the mainland from early morning until late at night. In the summer a number of waterbuses also include Suomenlinna on their itineraries. Among the many museums worth looking into is the Doll & Toy Museum, which has a delightful collection of doll’s houses and toys dating from the 1830s onwards, and is as attractive to adults as it is to children. On Kustaanmiekka, the southernmost part of the island group, there is a pizzeria (Nikolai) and a gourmet restaurant (Walhalla). Here it is easy to feel that one is part of some great historical chapter, since during the Swedish period the building housed the famous Walhalla Orden, one of Viapori’s many secret societies. On a fine day, the Walhalla terrace offers wonderful views out to the open sea and the outer islands. At around six in the evening, you can also watch as the colossal ferries to and from Sweden pass through what seems an impossibly narrow channel towards the open sea. There is a strong temptation to reach out and shake hands with the passengers on board. Some will argue that the terrace of the Café Piper in the English formal garden laid out on neighbouring Susisaari offers Helsinki’s best panoramas, allowing the combination of a cool beer and unlimited ship-spotting. Suomenlinna also boasts a brewery of its own. Suomenlinna Brewery Restaurant, located only a few steps from the ferry, serves food made from fresh Finnish ingredients and their own beers. Magpie and other hidden treasures The area immediately to the south of the city itself is littered with small islets, many of which have scheduled boat connections in the summer months. One of the most interesting is Harakka (“Magpie”), a birdwatchers’ paradise just a few dozen metres from the quay known as Merisatama. Numerous artists’ studios here also guarantee that Discover Helsinki 53

SE A Harakka offers interesting, often avant-gardist exhibitions and events around the year. Boats to Harakka leave from Ullanlinna near the Café Ursula. The newest island attraction in Helsinki is Vallisaari, a former military island that has just opened to visitors this year. The enchanting island has beautiful fortifications and wild nature with the richest range of species in the Helsinki metropolitan area. The island can be reached by waterbus from the Market Square during the summer season. Another newcomer is Lonna that opened to visitors in 2014. The small island has a restaurant and a café where you can even buy a ready-packed picnic basket. This summer they will also open a waffle bar serving sweet and savory waffles. Pihlajasaari is one of the most popular islands. It has an official nude beach, and free camping at weekends. Boats to Pihlajasaari leave from Eira, near the Café Carusel. In the summer it is possible to eat out in Helsinki well away from the city noise and exhaust fumes on several island restaurants. One of the best known is Saaristo, in a lovely wooden villa on a small island right next to the Kaivopuisto Park and the Olympia Terminal, where the large white Silja Line ferries tie up. It is only a short boat ride away from the Olympia Terminal. On Liuskasaari (again located close to the Merisatama quay in the south of the city) it is possible to eat in the nautical milieu of the Helsinki Sailing Club’s pavilion restaurant, while Särkänlinna (on the little islet known as Särkkä) is housed in an old arms store that can accommodate 120 people. Don’t be alarmed here if the floor of the restaurant dining room seems to be sloping towards the kitchen. The effect is a memory from the previous use of the building: the floor was built on a slight continuous slope so that cannon balls could easily be rolled from the store to the guns. Close by these two popular restaurants you can also find Uunisaari (literally “Oven Island”), which is known for its beach and its saunas. Here, too, there is a pleasant restaurant with a busy terrace. The Merisatama quay also offers a boat-hop of a few minutes to Sirpalesaari, where there is a summer restaurant, Saari. This place is highly popular in the late summer when the crayfish season is in full swing. Merisatama is, by the way, also the boarding point for trips to the city-owned beach islands of Pihlajasaari, located a couple of kilometres offshore. There is a camping area on the islands, and a unisex nudist beach. Swinging back towards the South Harbour, the yacht club NJK has a restaurant on the island of Valkosaari, right in the 54 Discover Helsinki heart of the harbour. The large panorama windows of the building, which dates from 1900, provide a dazzling view of the Market Square and the passenger vessels coming in and out of the harbour. Ships ahoy For those who prefer their own company or for groups who want a bit of peace and quiet, there are plenty of places around the coast to choose from. Renting a boat makes it possible to pop off for a picnic on an island where you are guaranteed not to see another soul. Boat rental outlets also offer fishing trips to proven waters in the Helsinki area. A sightseeing trip by boat is one of the best ways to get to know Helsinki and its history. You can step on board at several places, for example in the Market Square and at the Merisatama quay referred to earlier. You can choose between a number of companies and routes for archipelago cruises. Some companies offer lunch or dinner cruises, and the ticket prices start at 15 to 20 euros. Summer Helsinki is a dream destination for anyone who is into sailing. Local yacht clubs have numerous marinas and harbours with guest facilities, in the south, west, and eastern parts of the city, and there are also chandlers and boat supplies stores close by. Beach life With all this talk of boats, it might seem that they are a must. Not so. There are plenty of beaches that can be enjoyed without taking to the water to get at them. Hietaranta, or “Hietsu” to the locals, is right downtown, and is the city’s most famous and most popular beach. Expect a lot of company on hot July days. Outside the city centre proper there are also any number of attractive and unspoilt beaches that are worth checking out as the mercury rises. In particular the beaches in the eastern districts of the city make it difficult to imagine you are in a metropolitan area with a population of around a million people. Try the one at Kallahdenniemi for starters, down at the end of a gravel path fringed with spruce trees. Bus No. 90 will get you there from the Rastila metro station. You can also find the beach of Aurinkolahti in Vuosaari. Aurinkolahti is informally known as the “Riviera of Helsinki” which is a nice place to visit on a sunny day. A 700-meter swimming beach and a marina are two of Aurinkolahti’s best features. However, ironically enough, Helsinki’s most interesting beach is not by the sea at all, but on the banks of the Vantaa River, in the

When summer rolls around local residents take advantage of the warmer weather by heading to the Hietaniemi Beach. Lauri Rotko / City of Helsinki Media Bank district known as Oulunkylä. You can get there from downtown on bus 65A. After walking down a steepish hill, the visitor is rewarded with an impressive sight: the river makes a small bay in the shelter of a high rock outcrop. The boldest jump into the water from a platform built on the top of the sheer cliff! In case you desire a refreshing swim in the city centre, you might want to head to the Helsinki Swimming Stadium, outdoors swimming venue near by the Helsinki Olympic Stadium. The Baltic Sea – a Unique Ecosystem Today, the sea plays still an important part in the lives of the Helsinki residents. For example, there is an annual Baltic herring festival every October. The week-long event, held in and around the Market Square, continues to be a great favourite. Some of the fish on sale there will have had their origins in fish hatcheries, which place a burden on the fragile ecology of the Baltic Sea. The Baltic is home to a unique ecosystem, but the currents in this shallow sea are weak, and the water circulates badly. The WWF has drawn up a Baltic Sea improvement programme for the nine countries with a shoreline on the Baltic. In order that the nutrient levels in the Baltic can be kept in check or even reduced, the WWF has demanded reductions in agricultural emissions and cuts in discharges from household wastewater, traffic, and industry. Finland is fighting the eutrophication battle and seeking to improve the condition of sea areas through international action. ••• Discover Helsinki 55

ARCHI TEC TURE T E XT BY MON A SCHA LI N Architecture in Helsinki – A mixture of east and west What does Helsinki have to offer visitors interested in architecture? Both architecturally and culturally, Helsinki is an idiosyncratic mix of eastern and western influence. The main theatres, museums, and concert halls are all centrally located, and many public and commercial buildings manifest outstanding architectural quality. 56 Discover Helsinki

<<< Uspenski Cathedral with its golden cupolas is a reminder of Finland’s eastern heritage. The church’s richly decorated interior is well worth a visit. Ryhor Bruyeu / iStockphoto HELSINKI IS YOUNGER and smaller than most of the other European capitals, and its spacious town plan gives it a horizontal skyline. There are plenty of parks and squares, and almost everywhere you sense the presence of the sea. The old centre was built on a narrow promontory, and the modern city has fanned out onto the mainland, where you can detect distinct layers of development in the stylistically unified zones, which alternate like year rings. The actual city centre is concentrated along Aleksanterinkatu and the main north-south thoroughfare Mannerheimintie. ing. On the northern flank soared the Lutheran church of St. Nicholas, or Helsinki Cathedral. To this day, travellers arriving in Helsinki by sea are faced with this historic, Empire-style city centre. The wooden houses that once surrounded it have long since disappeared. However, the street layout between the Senate Square and Eteläsatama (the South Harbour) and Kauppatori (the Market Square) dates from the Swedish era, as do some of the buildings, although many of the facades have been altered. Many of the characteristically yellow buildings you see in Helsinki date from this era, too. It star ted as a modest town Towards metropolitanism Finland was part of the Swedish empire until the early nineteenth century. Helsinki was founded in 1550 by King Gustavus I Wasa at the mouth of the River Vanda, to compete with the Hanseatic port of Tallinn across the Baltic, and to boost trade with Russia. In 1640, the town was shifted close to the area that is now Senaatintori (the Senate Square), which offered a better harbour. For another hundred years, Helsinki remained a very modest trading town. None of the buildings erected before 1750 managed to survive, having either burned down or been demolished to make way for subsequent development. The town received a sudden boost with the founding of the sea fortress of Sveaborg in 1748. It is presently known by its Finnish name, Suomenlinna. The hectic construction that took place in the closing decades of the nineteenth century is everywhere in evidence in central Helsinki. Four and five-storey commercial buildings and residential blocks were erected on Pohjoisesplanadi, Bulevardi, and Erottaja, designed in a style that emulated the architecture of Vienna and Berlin. The so-called period of Eclecticism produced many richly decorated buildings including Theodor Höijer’s Ateneum (which now houses the Museum of Finnish Art) and, by Gustaf Nyström, the National Archives of Finland, the House of Estates, Helsinki Market Hall, and the greenhouse of the Botanical Gardens. On an elevation just east of the Empire-style city centre, A. M. Gornostayev designed the Uspenski Cathedral, whose Byzantine silhouette makes a prominent contribution to the skyline of the South Harbour. The Bank of Finland (designed by the German architect Ludwig Bohnstedt), the National Archives of Finland, and the House of Estates form an imposing square of their own just north of the Senaatintori. The yellow city is born In 1808, Russia invaded Finland. One year later Finland was ceded to Russia, and Helsinki was destroyed by a huge fire. More importantly, in 1812, Czar Alexander I declared Helsinki the new capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland. All this paved the way for a new town plan drawn up by Johan Albrecht Ehrenström. New buildings were designed by the Prussian architect Carl Ludvig Engel. When Engel first arrived, Helsinki had a mere 4,000 inhabitants. By the time he died in 1840, the figure had risen to 18,000, and the new townscape was dominated by light-coloured, plastered brick buildings and low, timbered log houses. The centrepiece was the new Senate Square around which were arranged the key institutions of government, religion, and higher learn- Nouveau ideas Helsinki’s architecture offers many examples of turn of the century Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) and the classicism that followed. These styles can be studied in numerous public buildings. The National Museum, the National Theatre, and Eliel Saarinen’s Central Railway Station are some of the landmarks of this period. Of the original interiors that still survive, it is worth noting the Jugendsali on Pohjoisesplanadi 19, which is currently used Discover Helsinki 57

ARCH I TEC TURE The unique Katajanokka district is located adjacent to the immediate downtown area of Helsinki and it is principally known for its prime examples of Jugendstil architecture. >>> Prosi & Sulkumäki photo collection for exhibitions, the restaurant of the Hotel Seurahuone, designed by Armas Lindgren, and the glazed atrium of the Helsinki Stock Exchange building on Fabianinkatu, designed by Lars Sonck. East of the Uspenski Cathedral stands the unique Katajanokka district, whose picturesque older streets are dominated by Art Nouveau features: massive stone gates, bay windows, and dreamlike turrets. Other early 20th-century Jugendstil delights can be found in the areas of Kruununhaka and Eira. Boldly modernist Finland declared independence in the aftermath of the Russian Revolution in 1917. In the first years of independence, architects entertained futuristic visions, dreaming of an American-style city centre. The nearest they got to a skyscraper was the 14-storey Hotel Torni (“Tower”) of 1931. To this day, the planning policy has been to maintain an unbroken, horizontal skyline. The most important public building project of the 1920s was the Finnish Parliament, designed by J. S. Sirén. Finally completed in 1931, the Parliament building stands on an elevation, and is an imposing, granite cube conceived in a classical idiom. The Stockmann department store further south on Mannerheimintie was completed around the same time. The Kunst-halle, or Taidehalli, by Jarl Eklund and Hilding Ekelund, is on Nervanderinkatu 3 and offers an elegant example of so-called Nordic Classicism, the predominant style of the 1910s and 1920s. Many examples of this restrained classicist idiom survive in the domestic architecture of the period. The suburb of Puu-Käpylä, with its colourful timber houses and leafy gardens, is one of the finest examples of the style, built on the scale of a small town. The Modern Movement entered Finnish architecture quite smoothly, without rancorous debate. The Lasipalatsi (“Glass Palace”) building on Mannerheimintie 22–24 still appears as a fresh Modernist statement. Initially intended as only a temporary structure, this two-storey complex is now a lovingly restored Functionalist shrine. Another glittering Modernist interior that has been restored is the famous Karl Fazer café on Kluuvikatu. Finally, Alvar Aalto’s distinctive, sensuous brand of Modernism can be experienced at the Savoy restaurant on Eteläesplanadi 14. Today Modern Movement architecture is regarded as an integral part of our heritage. A growing city Finland suffered great hardship during the World War II, and the post-war reconstruction effort was not completed until the 1950s. With the burgeoning growth of the city in the 1950s and 1960s, the focus of new building shifted to the suburbs. Tapiola Garden City 58 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 59

ARCHI TEC TURE 60 Discover Helsinki

<<< Töölönlahti Bay is a perfect place to unwind from the busy city. Along the walking path you can stop by at the cafe Sininen Huvila which has a perfect view overlooking the Töölönlahti Bay all the way to the Finlandia Hall. Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com was built among pristine forests and meadows in Espoo, west of Helsinki. Tapiola became internationally famous for its spacious layout and meticulous landscape design. Public building in Helsinki escalated in the 1950s, the “Golden Age” of Finnish architecture. Numerous buildings were commissioned, among them the Helsinki School of Economics (Runeberginkatu 14–16) and the Porthania Building of Helsinki University (Yliopistonkatu 3). The renowned architect Alvar Aalto, who had already made his name in the 1930s, designed the main office of the National Pensions Institute of Finland, the House of Culture (Kulttuuritalo), and the so-called Rautatalo (“Iron House”) office building with its Marble Hall. Anyone who steps inside one of these interiors will sense Aalto’s special gift for creating fluid spatial sequences. A late Aalto masterpiece, the white, marble-clad Finlandia Hall (Mannerheimintie 13 e), also impresses with its foyer, auditorium, and congress wing. Amongst tourists, the best-known building in Helsinki is almost certainly the church at Temppeliaukio (Lutherinkatu 3). It is often known simply as “The Church in the Rock”, and is partially embedded in a granite outcrop. The gently-domed copper roof, large skylight windows, and impressive rough-hewn stone interior draw large crowds to the church, which was designed in the 1960s by two brothers, Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. The late 1970s represent a statistical watershed: approximately half the buildings in Finland have been completed after that time. The population of Helsinki multiplied as people from the country’s outlying regions inexorably moved south. ment on the other side of Mannerheimintie and next to the main Railway Station is the bastion of Helsingin Sanomat, the country’s largest daily newspaper. This large nine-storey cube has brought fresh glass architecture and a new scale of building to the heart of the city. It was designed by Antti-Matti Siikala and Jan Söderlund from SARC Architects. During the past few decades, major new developments in the city centre have taken place behind the historic facades, as new pedestrian routes and glazed shopping precincts have been created among the masonry buildings erected in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. A piece of original architecture is the Museum of Contemporary Art (Kiasma) by the American Steven Holl, which has won plaudits and stimulated debate. ••• REMEMBER THESE TREASURES The Pohjola building (Aleksanterinkatu 44) with its abundant decorative sculpture is worth a stop during your shopping spree. For inner peace, spend a few quiet moments at the National Library of Finland (Unioninkatu 36) designed by C.L. Engel. For a peek of a different side of Helsinki, take the tram no. 7 to Mäkelänkatu and visit the idyllic Puu-Vallila area, famous for its Helsinki today Various schemes to develop the area surrounding the inland bay of Töölönlahti have been aired during Finland’s independence. Three major cultural buildings have been completed on the shores of this inlet of the sea: Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall, Timo Penttilä’s Helsinki City Theatre (1967), and the Finnish National Opera (1993) by the Hyvämäki-Karhunen-Parkkinen partnership. The area is constantly developing. Facing Parlia- old wooden houses dating back to the early 20th century. Take a walk in the Linnunlaulu area around the Töölönlahti Bay for Chekhovian moments. The beautiful villas in the area were built between the 1870’s and 1880’s. Discover Helsinki 61

T E XT BY S U SA N N A PE TT E RSON Helsinki Bites exhibition opened in the Helsinki City Museum on 13 May, 2016. It dives into the past of Helsinki, bringing up shared memories about the city’s history. The exhibition also showcases the miniature model of Helsinki of 1878. >>> ART Juho Nurmi / Helsinki City Museum / City of Helsinki Art treasures of the city The history and present state of Finnish art can be studied intimately in the various art museums, galleries and special collections in and around Helsinki. The city has an active art life with over 150 museums and art galleries – surely enough even for the most eager art lover. A HUNDRED YEARS ago, Finland’s artistic life was utterly different. Helsinki had just one art museum, the Ateneum, which had opened to the public in 1888, and was solely charged with meeting all the city’s artistic needs. It took several decades before a wider range of art galleries and alternative exhibition spaces emerged, the first serious contender being the Helsinki Kunsthalle, inaugurated in 1928. Ar t takes root Finnish art is comparatively young. Prior to the eighteenth century, Finland did not have a single full-time professional artist. The first art school was only founded in 1846. Finnish art history has roots in religious work. From the Middle Ages, the church began to commission occasional works of art. Finland had no affluent élite to compare with that which provided employment to portraitists and other artists in Central Europe. The turning-point came in the early eighteenth century, when the fortress of Viapori was founded, leading to a large influx of Swedish officers to oversee the building works. Trade received a boost, enriching the local population, and there was an upsurge in the demand for portraits among the élite. Artists travelled all the way from Stockholm in search of work. Finnish art burgeoned forth in a variety of forms. From rococo to realism Profane, so-called free art, had its hesitant origin in Finland in the 18th century Isak Wacklin’s rococo portraits and in Nils Schillmark’s paintings, which employed the Neoclassical 62 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 63

ART What was happening in sculpture, printmaking, painting and photography? idiom. Elias Martin’s landscape paintings documenting the fortification of Viapori represent a unique curiosity from the same period. At the turn of the nineteenth century, Finnish artists absorbed influences from the Romantic movement, and began to produce soulful portraits as well as genre paintings that idealised nature. The most famous Romantic artists included Gustaf Wilhelm Finnberg, Alexander Lauréus and Robert Wilhelm Ekman. In 1809, when Finland was severed from Sweden and brought under Russian rule, the educated classes were divided into three groups: pro-Swedish, pro-Russian and pro-Finnish. Those who aligned themselves with the native country wanted Finland to have its own history and identity. Painting was seen as an excellent means of serving nationalistic ends. In the mid-nineteenth century, a handful of Finnish artists studied in Düsseldorf, and soon applied the lessons they had imbibed to the depiction of the ideal Finnish landscape. The most famous landscape painter of the Düsseldorf School in Finland was Werner Holmberg, whose career was cut short by tuberculosis. The Düsseldorf group also included a woman artist, Fanny Churberg, whose paintings evoked a mysterious country filled with harsh tracts of wilderness. The educated pro-Finnish contingency had a growing appetite for works of art. They now wanted historical paintings as well as idealised landscapes. It was decided that Albert Edelfelt, the most promising young artist studying at the Finnish Art Society’s drawing school, should be sent to Antwerp to study history painting. He duly painted a few historical subjects to satisfy his patrons, the most famous being Kuningatar Blanka (Queen Blanca, 1877), which is now in the Ateneum Art Museum. However, Edelfelt also felt drawn irresistibly to Paris, the centre of plein-air painting, where a colony of Nordic artists was forming. The so-called Parisian period began, and realism was launched in Finnish art. National fer vour and symbolism The plein-air method drove Finnish artists out among real subjects: the peasantry and genuine nature. Artists, who usually had an upper-class background, began to make excursions into the “original Finland” that was supposed to lie in the forest wilderness of Karelia. Landscape painting and realistic depictions of ordinary folk led to the development of National Romanticism, a movement which also pervaded literature, music and architecture. 64 Discover Helsinki

Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865–1931) is one of the featured artists in Ateneum Art Museum. Lemminkäisen äiti (Lemminkäinen’s Mother, 1897) is one of the best-know of his Kalevala-themed works. Akseli Gallen-Kallela Lemminkäinen’s Mother (1897) Ateneum Art Museum Antell collections Jouko Könönen / Finnish National Gallery Discover Helsinki 65

The most determined and undiluted National Romanticist was Akseli Gallen-Kallela, ART whose life’s ambition was to illustrate the entire Kalevala, Finland’s national epic. The most determined and undiluted National Romanticist was Akseli Gallen-Kallela, whose life’s ambition was to illustrate the entire Kalevala, Finland’s national epic. By Finnish standards, Gallen-Kallela is something of a Renaissance artist, best known for his oil paintings and prints, but also a designer of stained-glass windows, furniture and textiles. He designed his own studio-home, as well as uniforms for the Finnish army, and a proposal for the Finnish flag. If the National Romantic movement focused on the soul of the people, Symbolism was preoccupied with the basic questions of human existence. Life and death were strongly present. Hugo Simberg gave death human embodiment, and his blackcloaked skeletons are among the best-loved figures in Finnish art. Magnus Enckell approached the central concerns of Symbolism through his ageless and universal studies of boys. However, there were also notable artists who worked outside the stylistic movements of their day. Helene Schjerfbeck deserves separate mention. Among the work she completed is a series of dozens self-portraits, which charts the course of her long life, from the self-assured face of youth to the elderly woman confronting death. Colour, power and the break-up of form In the early twentieth century anyone had at least a theoretical opportunity to study art, as students without means were admitted to the drawing school without fees. There were fears that the artistic community, once equated with the bourgeoisie, would become proletarian, endangering the Finnish national spirit. The reasons were plain: young, pro-Finnish artists kept a close eye on international developments. Impressionism, Expressionism and Cubism found northern echoes in Finnish studios. The new movements included Magnus Enckell’s colour painting school Septem, and the Expressionistic Novembrist Group led by Tyko Sallinen. Meanwhile, the Cubists were preoccupied 66 Discover Helsinki with the idea and nature of form. After Finnish independence in 1917, the Surrealists began to put forward works which playfully subverted the laws of the visible world. In the years immediately after the Second World War, nonfigurative art played a significant role in the construction of Finnish national identity. Finnish abstract art, industrial design and architecture helped to project an image of a modern nation that was looking to the future after the war. In the early 1960s, the non-figurative aesthetic was challenged by a whole artistic movement which went by the name of Informalism. Jaakko Sievänen, among others, filled his canvases with powerful, freely formed planes of flaming colour. Instead of traditional oil paint, the artist might use thick plaster, rags and sacking, as seen in the paintings of Ahti Lavonen, or cloths and scraps of paper, as in Anitra Lucander’s collages. Sculptors such as Eila Hiltunen made welded metal constructions, while Kain Tapper worked in wood and Ukri Merikanto used stone. The 1980s were dominated by ideas of the modern, postmodernism, and feminism, with strong painters like Marika Mäkelä, Marjatta Tapiola, and Leena Luostarinen. In the 1990s, increasing emphasis was laid on the relationship between the self and the surrounding society, crossover between the arts, and various technical concerns. Interest in the surrounding society brought art to the street level, tackling social questions like multiculturalism or poverty, as in the experimental works of Minna Heikinaho. Lately the most prominent Finnish artists have come from the field of video and photography. Filmmaker and video artist Eija-Liisa Ahtila’s triumphant career has focused the art world’s interest on the work of the younger generation. The rising stars include names like Salla Tykkä, Laura Horelli, and Liisa Lounila or photographer Elina Brotherus and installation artist Tea Mäkipää. All these are talented Finnish women for whom the entire world is their home. Questions like nationalism in art are no longer relevant. Now it’s all about art and nothing more. •••

S E LECT ION OF POPU L A R M U S E U MS AMOS ANDERSON ART MUSEUM Tel: +358 (0)9 8163 0493, info@emma.museum Large art museum in the centre of Helsinki. Open: Tue, Thu, Fri 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed 11 a.m.– MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART KIASMA 7 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. Kiasma breaks the boundaries of traditional art Yrjönkatu 27, 00100 Helsinki Admission: WeeGee ticket 12/10 €. Groups min 10 museums and follows the latest trends in visual culture. Tel. +358 (0)9 684 4460 persons 10 € per person. Visitors under 18 and over The museum is a part of the Finnish National Gallery. Open: Mon, Thu, Fri 10 a.m.-–6 p.m. Tue closed, 70 free entry. Free admission for all on Fri 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Wed 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. www.emma.museum Mannerheiminaukio 2, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)294 500 501, info@kiasma.fi Admission: 12 €, seniors 8 €, students 2 €. Children under 18 free entry. HAM, HELSINKI ART MUSEUM Open: Tue 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Wed–Fri 10 a.m.–8.30 p.m., www.amosanderson.fi The Helsinki Art Museum, HAM, looks after an art Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. collection that belongs to the people of Helsinki, Admission: 12/8 €. Children under 18 free entry. ATENEUM ART MUSEUM which includes over 9,000 works of art. HAM also Free entry on 1st Friday of the month. The Ateneum Art Museum is the basic part of the houses an exhibition of Tove Jansson’s art. www.kiasma.fi Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 8, (Tennis Palace) Helsinki MUSEUM OF FINNISH ARCHITECTURE Tel. +358 (0)9 310 1051 Changing exhibitions on Finnish and international Kaivokatu 2, 00100 Helsinki Open: Tue–Sun 11–19, Mon closed architecture. Each summer a large show on a Finnish Tel. +358 (0)294 500 401, ainfo@ateneum.fi Admission: 10/8 €. Children under 18 free entry. topic. 8 p.m. Sat, Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. HELSINKI CITY MUSEUM Kasarmikatu 24, 00130 Helsinki Admission: adults 15 €. Children under 18 free entry. At Helsinki City Museum, visitors are whisked off Tel. +358 (0)9 8567 5100, mfa@mfa.fi www.ateneum.fi on a journey to discover Helsinki’s past. Entry to Open: Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed 11 a.m.–8 p.m. the museum is always free. Admission: 8/4 €. Free entry on 1st Friday of the Finnish National Gallery and has the largest art collections of the country. Open: Tue, Fri 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed, Thu 10 a.m.– DESIGN MUSEUM month, for children under 18 & for school classes Founded in 1873 as The Museum of Applied Arts, Aleksanterinkatu 16, 00170 Helsinki with a teacher. Design Museum is now an internationally Tel. +358 (0)9 3103 6630 www.mfa.fi operating museum of design. Open: Mon–Wed, 11 a.m. –7 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a.m. –5 p.m. SINEBRYCHOFF ART MUSEUM Finland’s most significant collection of paintings by old Korkeavuorenkatu 23, 00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 622 0540 MANNERHEIM MUSEUM foreign masters and an interior museum. The museum Open: Summertime open daily 11-18 A museum depicting the life of Baron Gustaf is a part of the Finnish National Gallery. Admission: adults 10 €, pensioners 8 €, Mannerheim, Marshal of Finland (1867–1951). students 5 €, children for free. Mannerheim’s home has been preserved almost Bulevardi 40, 00120 Helsinki www.designmuseum.fi in its original state. Information during opening hours EMMA - ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART / WEEGEE HOUSE Kalliolinnantie 14, (Kaivopuisto) Helsinki Open: Tue, Fri 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed 11 a.m.–8 p.m., Tel. +358 (0)9 635 443, info@mannerheim-museo.fi Thu 11 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat–Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. EMMA is among the largest art museums in Finland, Open: Fri, Sat–Sun 11 a.m.– 4 p.m., other times by Mon closed. with a permanent exhibition and changing domestic prior arrangement. and international exhibitions. EMMA is located in Admission: adults 10 €, children under 12 free Admission: 10/12 €. Children under 18 free entry. the Exhibition Center WeeGee. entry, pensioners, students and groups of over Free admission on the first Wednesday of the month 10 persons 8 € per person. at 5–8 p.m. www.mannerheim-museo.fi www.sinebrychoffintaidemuseo.fi Tel. +358 (0)294 500 460 Ahertajantie 5, (Tapiola) 02100 Espoo Discover Helsinki 67

52 53 Mannerheim Museum The former home of Baron G. Mannerheim, Marshal of Finland (1867-1951). Objects related to his life and the history of Finland. Open: Friday, Saturday and Sunday 11 am–4 pm and by appointment. Kalliolinnantie 14, 00140 Helsinki tel: +358-9-635443, info@mannerheim-museo.fi www.mannerheim-museo.fi Discover Helsinki 92x92mm_Asuntomessut 12.5.2016 11.17 Sivu 1 51 Finnish Aviation Museum This National special museum is situated close to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport and Aviapolis train station. Its collections open a window into the history of aviation in Finland. The Museum`s sensational services, simulators, meeting spaces, shop and a restaurant provide a magnificent setting for visits, various events and meetings. 50 Art museum emmA, 3 other museums, emmA shop And restAurAnt under the sAme roof Espoo musEum of modErn art Karhumäentie 12, 01530 Vantaa tel. (09) 8700 870, www.ilmailumuseo. TUE, THU 11–18, WED, FRI 11–19, SAT, SUN 11–17 AHERTA jANTIE 5, TApIol A, ESpoo, FINl AND TEl. +358 (0)9 8163 0493, W W W.EmmA.mUSEUm bUSES 106 AND 110 FRom K AmppI, HElSINKI mETRo: TApIol A STATIoN, ESpoo

THE RE ARE N UME ROUS ART MUSEUMS AND GALLE RIES I N HELSI NKI WH ICH SPECIALISE I N DIFFE RENT AREAS, FROM OLD ART TO CONTEMPORARY WORK AMA Gallery Rikhardinkatu 1 www.ama.fi Gallery Forsblom Lönnrotinkatu 5 / Yrjönkatu 22 www.galerieforsblom.com Kaapelin Galleria Tallberginkatu 1 C 97 www.kaapelingalleria.fi Collection Lauri and Lasse Reitz Apollonkatu 23 B 64 www.reitz.fi Gallery G Pieni Roobertinkatu 10 www.taidegraafikot.fi Kirpilä Art Collection Pohjoinen Hesperiankatu 7, 6th floor www.taidekotikirpila.fi Collection Päivikki and Sakari Sohlberg Kauppiaankatu 11 A 7, (by appointment only) www.pss-saatio.fi Gallery Heino Uudenmaankatu 16–20 www.galleriaheino.fi Kulttuuritehdas Korjaamo Töölönkatu 51 A–B www.korjaamo.fi Didrichsen Art Museum Kuusilahdenkuja 1 www.didrichsenmuseum.fi/eng/ Gallery Huuto Tyynenmerenkatu 6, Uudenmaankatu 35 www.galleriahuuto.net Kunsthalle Helsinki Nervanderinkatu 3 www.taidehalli.fi Finnish Aviation Museum Karhumäentie 12, Vantaa www.ilmailumuseo.fi Gallery Kajaste Bulevardi 32 www.galleriakajaste.fi Make Your Mark Garage / Gallery Kaasutehtaankatu 1 (building 6) www.makeyourmark.fi Forum Box Ruoholahdenranta 3 A www.forumbox.fi Helsinki Contemporary Bulevardi 10 https://helsinkicontemporary.com Photographic Gallery Hippolyte Yrjönkatu 8–10 www.hippolyte.fi Galleria Bronda Annankatu 16 www.bronda.fi Gallery Laterna Magica Rauhankatu 7 www.laterna.net Suomenlinna Museum Suomenlinna C 40 www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/museums Galleria Dix Uudenmaankatu 19 www.galleriadix.fi Gallery Katariina Kalevankatu 16 www.helsingintaiteilijaseura.fi The Finnish Museum of Photography Tallberginkatu I G www.valokuvataiteenmuseo.fi Galleria FAFA Lönnrotinkatu 35 www.kuva.fi Gallery Luova.fi Suvilahdenkatu 10 A, 5th floor www.luova.fi The Gallen-Kallela Museum Gallen-Kallelan tie 27, Espoo www.gallen-kallela.fi Galleria Lapinlahti Lapinlahdentie 1 www.gallerialapinlahti.com Gallery Sculptor Eteläranta 12 www.sculptors.fi The National Museum of Finland Mannerheimintie 34 www.nba.fi Galerie Anhava Fredrikinkatu 43 www.anhava.com Gallery Sinne Iso Roobertinkatu 16 www.sinne.proartibus.fi Tm Galleria / Finnish Painter’s Union Erottajankatu 9 B www.painters.fi Gallery Alkovi Helsinginkatu 19 www.alkovi.linnake.net Glass Gallery Mafka&Alakoski Iso Roobertinkatu 19 www.mafka.fi / www.karialakoski.com Villa Gyllenberg Kuusisaarenpolku 11 www.villagyllenberg.fi Discover Helsinki 69

T E XT BY AU LI RÄSÄN E N Helsinki’s most popular concert church is Temppeliaukio Church (1969), often referred to as “The Church in the Rock”, since it occupies a depression quarried into a granite outcrop and covered with a 25-metre circular copper dome and steel-framed skylight windows. >>> MU SIC Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com Reason to make a song and dance For a city of only half a million inhabitants, Helsinki enjoys a remarkably rich mix of cultural fare, offering the sort of variety available in the large European or North American metropolises.  IN HELSINKI, shows in general are well-attended; the most popular theatre and opera productions are sold out for months in advance. With good reason, Helsinki can be described as an important cultural meeting-point. Not surprisingly, the cultural fare is concentrated in indoor venues and during the cold, dark time of the year, since sunshine and rising temperatures prompt the locals to head for their summer cottages or – perversely – to take off abroad for holidays. Summer time delights All the same, there are things going on in Helsinki even during the summer months. The Helsinki Festival (August 19th–Sebtember 4th, 2016) was put into the late August/early September slot precisely because the seaside town is then enjoying the warm, dusky evenings of late summer, a time of crayfish parties and yacht regattas. The two-week Helsinki Festival, with its concerts, dance- and theatre productions, and art shows, is dotted around the entire city. One immensely popular tradition at the Festival is “Art Goes Kapakka” (kapakka = pub, local), in which artists strut their stuff in downtown restaurants and watering-holes. Having brightened Helsinki’s August nights since 1995, the festival continues to delight with multi-sensory art. This year, Art Goes Kapakka takes place on August 18th–27th. The youngest and most visible happening is URB, an independent urban youth gathering. This particular event, with a strong leaning towards street arts and dance, is held a few weeks before the festival proper (August 3rd–12th, 2016). It also invites in schoolkids during their summer vacation for breakdance courses and graffiti workshops. During the summer the theatres and symphony orchestras that have been active throughout the winter and spring seasons are also officially on vacation, but every year the fortress 70 Discover Helsinki

MU SI C Discover Helsinki 71

MU SIC With good reason, Helsinki can be described as an important cultural meeting-point. island of Suomenlinna serves tourists and the Helsinki locals with theatre productions, concerts, exhibitions, and restaurant soirées. Opera for a song The Finnish National Opera located on the shores of Töölönlahti Bay, has around 500 employees with an 80-strong ballet company and a 110-member orchestra. The National Ballet is a high-class ensemble and its repertoire provides a mix of classical and contemporary works. Opera in Finland has shrugged off its elitist label, since it would be hard to find another country anywhere in the world where around 30 new operas have been composed in the last three decades. The opera and ballet seasons continue until the beginning of June and the new round starts again in August. Tickets for both genres are generally cheaper in Finland than in Central Europe, as the government subsidises the National Opera’s activities very generously. Music for the masses From the Opera House, if you continue down the main thoroughfare Mannerheimintie in the direction of the city centre, you will come across Finlandia Hall. This large white marble-clad edifice is a concert (1,700 seats in the main auditorium) and congress hall, with the concert wing designed in 1971 by Alvar Aalto. Aalto was indisputably a great architect, but he paid scant heed to his acoustic experts. As a consequence the large auditorium has a rather dry sound, and is not overly popular with local orchestras. Alvar Aalto was also responsible for the red-brick Kulttuuritalo (Cultural Hall) built originally for the Finnish Communist Party in 1958. Here the acoustics are a good deal more satisfactory, though the building is slightly smaller, with seating for just under 1,400. In any event, both these venues now have a serious rival with the new Music Centre situated on the prime site facing the Parliament Building. The Music Centre has excellent acoustic solutions designed by a top Japanese designer. The Music Centre houses both of the city’s big resident symphony orchestras – the Helsinki Philharmonic and the Finnish Radio Symphony – and the country’s music university, the Sibelius Academy. 72 Discover Helsinki

33 24 Discover Helsinki 73

MU SIC Oh, don’t we all love the dance pop of the 90’s with its catchy tunes. Cosy and contemporar y venues The atmospheric Alexander Theatre on Bulevardi 23–27 was the home of the Finnish National Opera from 1917 until 1993. The Alexander Theatre is a former Russian garrison theatre with a smallish 473-seat auditorium. It is also a busy dance centre, providing a platform for many of Finland’s top contemporary dance troupes, including the Tero Saarinen Company and Nomadi Productions. The stage is also as a venue for small operatic groups like the Finnish Chamber Opera. The Zodiak Center for New Dance is a contemporary dance community that has taken up home in Kaapelitehdas (“The Cable Factory” – which is what it once was), located in the suburb of 15 Ruoholahti. Zodiak produces the work of progressive young choreographers and more than a dozen independent dance groups. The Savoy Theatre, just off the Esplanade and not far from the Market Square, has developed into a popular stage for ethnic music and dance productions. The cosy Savoy is also popular with small-scale modern circus troupes and drama companies. Helsinki’s most popular concert church is Temppeliaukio Church (1969), often referred to as “The Church in the Rock”, since it occupies a depression quarried into a granite outcrop and covered with a 25-metre circular copper dome and steelframed skylight windows. •••

Flow Festival takes place on August 12–14, 2016. The hugely popular urban festival is about topical music, visual arts, urban spaces and good food and drink. Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com URBAN FESTIVALS IN HELSINKI Although a large number of Finnish music festivals take place outside Rockin’ Hellsinki stages Deep Purple and Uriah Heep on June 10th the capital, there are still some interesting festivals in the central at Kaisaniemi park a short walk from the main railway station. Helsinki area. Oh, don’t we all love the dance pop of the 90’s with its catchy Flow Festival, the hippest festival in Finland, takes place on August tunes. Go and see yourself. We Love The 90’s Festival takes places 12th–14th, 2016, in the historic power plant area of Suvilahti in central in Suvilahti on August 26th–27th, 2016. Among the stars on stage Helsinki. The past few years the event has pulled record crowds, with there are Scooter and Dr. Alban. some 60,000 eager party-goers. The line-up this year includes Massive Attack and Iggy Pop. >> www.flowfestival.com/en The World Village festival brings music, dance and theatre to Kaisaniemi, Helsinki, May 28th–29th, 2016. The event is open to In late June, you’ll see long-haired people wearing black everywhere. all and promises to offer world views and possibilities on top of It’s time for the Tuska Open Air Metal Festival, the largest metal-related the various music genres, art and circus performances. music festival in the Nordic countries taking place in Helsinki on July >> www.maailmakylassa.fi/english/home 1st–3rd. Anthrax is one of the biggest stars in 2016. >> www.tuska-festival.fi/en Discover Helsinki 75

Helsinki Swimming Stadium is a popular recreational venue for citizens in summertime. The stadium was built for the 1940 Olympic Games which were cancelled due to the Second World War, but later hosted the 1952 Summer Olympics. >>> T E XT BY A NT E RO RAEVUO R I SP O RT Lauri Rotko / City of Helsinki Media Bank Helsinki – Sporty daughter of the Baltic Helsinki offers a lot to see and do for a sport-minded visitor. Both the active athletic and the spectator sportsman can find various attractions. THE OLYMPIC STADIUM in Helsinki was completed in 1938, as Finland was meant to host the 1940 Olympic Games. The outbreak of the Second World War led to the cancellation of the Games, but the building works were eventually completed in time for Helsinki to host the Olympics in 1952. Venues for record-breaking A number of other sports facilities were completed with the Olympics in mind in the 1930s, including the Rowing Stadium and the Velodrome. With their elegantly straightforward construction and white exteriors, these facilities exemplify the Zeitgeist of the 1930s, with its mass events and cult of the body. Behind the Olympic Stadium is the open-air Swimming Stadium, which was also used in the 1952 Helsinki Olympics. The stadium is designed in the Functionalist style and has been listed as a significant example of modern architecture. It is open to the public from early May to Late September. Just a five-minute walk from the stadium is the so-called Eläintarha (Zoological Gardens) athletics track, now used mainly for training and warm-up purposes. Here, in June 1924, a small piece of running history was made, when Paavo Nurmi, the greatest Olympian of the time, calmly broke the world records for the 1500 metres and the 5000 metres – in the space of the same hour. He set a total of 29 world records in his career. Nearby, too, are Helsinki’s old Ice Hall (still in regular use) and the larger Hartwall Areena, both of them ice hockey arenas. This year Helsinki hosts the EuroGames 2016, officially called the European Gay and Lesbian Multi-Sports Championships. The event will be held from 29th of June to 2nd of July 2016. There will be at least 14 different sports ranging from basketball to bridge. 76 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 77

SP O RT In winter, you can go skating in the middle of the city! Non-competitive sporting events like yoga are offered, as well. They are expecting 3,000 participants and 2,000 other visitors from all over the world. The EuroGames & Pride Village will be situated in the city centre. Icemen and other stars Although ice hockey is Finland’s most popular spectator sport, the country’s internationally best known sporting superstars are nevertheless more likely to be found on four wheels or skis than on ice. If Finnish hockey players reach hero status, then they are much more likely to be playing in the NHL in North America. Among the best-known Finnish ice hockey players are Saku Koivu and Teemu Selänne, both recently retired. Rally drivers are household names, as are Formula One drivers like the former World Champions Kimi ‘Iceman’ Räikkönen and Mika Häkkinen. Finland also boasts some snowboarding stars including World Championships winners and medalists Antti Autti, and Markku Koski, and Olympic silver medalists Enni Rukajärvi and Peetu Piiroinen. Go spor ting In addition to sporting sights, Helsinki offers visitors a variety of ways of taking some exercise. The Swimming Stadium mentioned earlier is a summer magnet for swimmers and sun-worshippers alike. Although the grassy open area around the pool is quite large, space starts to be at a premium on hot July days. In winter, there are several indoor swimming pools around the city. The fashionable district of Kaivopuisto is home to the embassies of several nations and also boasts a handsome park. The road that winds around the edge of Kaivopuisto by the seafront is a favourite with rollerbladers and joggers in the summer. During the summer months, there are often free or cheap outdoor workouts in Kaivopuisto, too. Canoeing and kayaking can be enjoyed in Helsinki’s many sheltered bays. There is an excellent network of paths for cycling 78 Discover Helsinki and rollerblading (often right by the seaside), and there are riding stables only around a kilometre from the Olympic Stadium. Hiking and rambling in the woods is also an option. Although Helsinki is the capital city, one does not have to travel far to find completely unspoilt areas, such as the Nuuksio National Park in neighbouring Espoo. You will also find the Finnish Nature Centre Haltia at Nuuksio. The Nature Centre brings all of Finland’s nature under one roof and closer to the visitor. If you are unwilling to leave the city, you could try Nordic walking, a sport developed in Finland. It is, basically, walking with two poles similar to ski poles. Nordic Fitness Sports Park has equipment rental and great grounds and trails for various sports. You’ll find the park next door to the Olympic Stadium. Salmisaaren Liikuntakeskus at Ruoholahti offers indoor climbing, indoor beach volley, bowling and several other sports all year round. In winter, you can go skating in the middle of the city! There is a skating rink at Rautatientori next to the railway station, and another in Kallio, a few tram stops away from the centre. You can also go cross-country skiing a few kilometres off the city centre at Paloheinä. The area has several kilometres of skiing tracks and a ski rental shop. Helsinki even boasts a yearround indoor skiing hall, Kivikon hiihtohalli (Savikiekontie 4). A recently opened indoor miniature golf center, Hohtogolf West Coast (Yrjönkatu 24), offers unique excitement right in the heart of central Helsinki. A crazy set of special effects creates an atmosphere of laughter and horror while putting through a number of tracks that you’ve never played before. A perfect break, especially if the weather is not at its best, for a family or group of friends. More detailed information on a range of outdoor activities and on equipment rentals can be had from the Helsinki City Tourist and Convention Bureau, either by phone on 09 3101 3300 or from their website at www.hel.fi/tourism. The e-mail address for enquiries is tourist.info@hel.fi. •••

63 Photos by Pasi Salminen facebook.com/burtonstorehelsinki @burtonstorehelsinki Sörnäisten Rantatie 27c, 00500 Helsinki | 040 6541313 | info@burtonstorehelsinki.fi | www.burtonstorehelsinki.fi

Functionality and enduring design are in the core of Iittala’s design philosophy. Founded in 1881, Iittala started as a glass manufacturer. Today, glass and art glass are still an important part of Iittala’s heritage. >>> T E X T BY J O H A N N A LU H TA L A D ESI GN Elina Sirparanta / Visit Finland Finnish design During the past 150 years design has shaped Finnish culture and national identity. Finnish design is known for clean lines, practicality and timeless minimalism, although young designers can be surprisingly playful. Helsinki has been recently awarded City of Design status for using design in order to build a better city. THE FAMOUS Finnish design had its significant starting point at the turn of the 20th century – in art nouveau – when the architecture, the visual arts, and the applied arts lay at the heart of the burgeoning national culture. Key designers were architects such as Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren, and Eliel Saarinen, partners, who designed Helsinki railway station and the National Museum, and multi-talented artists like Akseli Gallen-Kallela. At the 1900 Paris World Exposition, Finland mounted its own national pavilion for the first time and attracted wide attention. Examples of the applied arts included furniture by Akseli Gallen-Kallela, along with his ryijy rug, entitled Flame, a pioneering work of Finnish textile design. The Iris ceramics factory exhibited wares made out of Finnish red-burning clay designed in an Art Nouveau idiom. Enduring classics of Modernism The earliest and still working companies in the field of the applied arts were the Arabia ceramics factory (founded in 1873), and Nuutajärvi glass factory (founded in 1794). In 1928 Riihimäen Lasi organised a glass design competition. The winning designer, Henry Ericsson already shows the clean lines of modernism. The work of the 1930s, from furniture and everyday wares to graphic design, was characterised by natural use of materials, unadorned surfaces, and bright primary colours. The young architect Alvar Aalto was particularly responsive to the modern rigours of Functionalism and designed light bentwood chairs, tables and shelves that became enduring classics of Modernism. In 1935 the Artek Company was set up in Helsinki, to produce and disseminate Aalto’s furniture, which had become popular abroad. The company is still going strong. Today, the Artek collection includes products by other designers as well. 80 Discover Helsinki

D ESI GN The Ball Chair (Pallo) by Eero Aarnio was designed in 1963. This is one of the most well-known classics of Finnish design and represented the international breakthrough for this famous Finnish designer. Juho Kuva / Visit Finland Together with his wife Aino, Alvar Aalto was also an important glass designer. In 1932 Aino Aalto designed her Aalto glassware series, and in 1936 Alvar Aalto created his Savoy vase, by far the best-known example of Finnish design internationally. Another modern classic by Alvar Aalto is the Artek Stool 60, a three-legged stool that has been copied endlessly. The heyday of ar t glass Handicraft skills and traditional materials became important during and immediately after the Second World War, when there was a shortage of materials. Among the central figures of the 1940s were the interior designer Ilmari Tapiovaara and the glass designer Gunnel Nyman. Tapiovaara was a pioneer 82 Discover Helsinki in the field of ergonomic seating design. Famous example is his Domus chair from 1947. During her short career Gunnel Nyman (1909–1948) designed a series of art objects of glass that pre-echoed the heyday of art glass in the 1950s. With the resurgence of industrial production in the 1950s, design suddenly took on a central role in Finnish cultural life. Glass design, particularly art glass, rose to prominence. Tapio Wirkkala, Timo Sarpaneva, Nanny Still, Saara Hopea and Kaj Franck designed high-quality glassware in a streamlined modern idiom. The textile industry recovered and responded to the strong post war demand for fabrics. Traditional ryijy rugs were designed in increasingly rich colours, and absorbed influence from abstract painting. Major expositions such as the Milan

The 1960s saw a strong backlash against the cult of the individual designer. Triennials gave Finnish design a place in the international limelight. Finland garnered major prizes in several years, and the victorious designers were lionised like Olympic champions in the press. A new phenomenon in Finnish glass is numerous studio glass artists and glassblowers creating their art in small hot shops. Glass Gallery Mafka & Alakoski represents fresh designs and the art of Finnish contemporary glass in the city centre. Plastic, fibreglass and textiles The 1960s saw a strong backlash against the cult of the individual designer. Suddenly, the design professional was to produce anonymous, universal objects instead of exclusive art objects. New materials such as plastic and fibreglass posed novel challenges and facilitated, for instance, wider and faster furniture production. Eero Aarnio’s eye-catching fibreglass chairs, Pallo and Pastilli, illustrated the possibilities offered by the new materials. Even now well into his 80s, Eero Aarnio is still actively creating new designs, including lamps and a children’s collection. The orange scissors by Fiskars are another Finnish design classic that was born in the 1960’s. The ergonomic scissors are now sold all over the world. They are a great example of Finnish functional design. The scissors have registered sales of more than one billion. The textile and clothes company Marimekko, founded in 1951 by Armi Ratia, won popularity with the glowing printed fabrics, jolly Tasaraita jersey cloths, and liberal ideals. The dreams of the 1960s were shattered by the 1973 oil crisis. Henceforth, increasing emphasis was placed on the constructive social role of designers. Handicrafts collectives and ceramic workshops were set up in empty schools and factories. Meanwhile, the profile of industrial design was raised by a generation of newly graduated designers specially trained in the field. Key concepts included “ergonomics” and “design for need”. Postmodernism and recycling The 1980s saw the breakthrough of international postmodernism in Finland and elsewhere. All the styles and movements of the twentieth century were freely reworked and juxtaposed, resulting in superficial, sensationalist design, but also in joyful and daring new departures. Several young designers were discovered in the late 1980s. The versatile Stefan Lindfors in particular has won wide acclaim. Two trends may be discerned in the design of the 1980s and 1990s: experimental art handicraft which is moving closer to the visual arts, and design that utilises recycled materials and information technology, often in a commercial vein. In the 1990’s data communications technol- Welcome to visit Glass Gallery in Helsinki Glass Studio and Gallery in Riihimäki Glass Gallery Mafka&Alakoski in Helsinki The gallery exhibits the best of Mafka&Alakoski glass works, unique pieces and short glass series. Get to know Finnish contemporary art glass in changing exhibitions and admire the making of glass beads! Iso Roobertinkatu 19, 00120 Helsinki Glass Studio and Gallery in Riihimäki Come and see glassblowing and try it yourself! Book your visit, tel. +358 40 554 9939 / glassblower Marja Hepo-aho. Lasitehtaanaukio 2, 11910 Riihimäki 68

D ESI GN ogy, and especially mobile phones comprised an important part of the industrial production of Finland. Nokia’s mobile phones have, as never before, exported Finnish know-how around the world. Young fashion designers The interest in the history of Marimekko has grown steadily, indicated also by the exhibitions and publications. Maija Louekari is one of the company’s hot new designers with joyful, colourful textile prints and tableware design. In the fashion business the retro-boom has brought young designers to the field. Paola Suhonen designs for her IVANAHelsinki label, which was the first Nordic fashion house to have its own show in Paris Fashion Week main show, and Suhonen was the first Finnish designer to feature at New York Fashion Week. Paola Suhonen has also done print and concept designing for various companies like Google, Canon, HP Sauce, Swarovski and Coca Cola. Artist and designer Klaus Haapaniemi has been busy for the past few years. Best known for his dishware collections Taika (Magic) and Satumetsä (Storytale forest) for Iittala, he also has designed garment prints and furniture, worked in fashion and books, and planned exhibitions and events such as the pop-up restaurant Hel Yes. Haapaniemi has also designed the visual concept for the opera The cunning little vixen. ••• READY FOR FINNISH DESIGN? A good starting-point to see Finnish design is the Design Museum (Korkeavuorenkatu 23), one of the earliest in its field in Europe. The museum has a collection of Finnish and foreign design, including fashion, industrial design and graphic design. See New classics The furniture manufacturing has started to produce models by young designers, such as Sari Anttonen’s Kiss-chair for Piiroinen and Samuli Naamanka’s Clash-chair for Martela. The multi-talented Harri Koskinen has designed a wide range of products including tableware, furniture, lighting, watches, and textiles. He earned international renown in 1996 with the Block lamp which has become a modern design classic, now part of MoMa’s collection. His clients include Alessi, MUJI, Swarowski and Issey Miyake. Folklore and magic The past few years have seen the rise of Finnish illustrators. The hottest names now include Sanna Annukka, whose colourful work uses Finnish folkloristic themes. You may have seen her work in products by Marimekko, Mark&Spencer’s and Vogue. The Amsterdam-based Kustaa Saksi has designed illustrations for Jennifer Lopez’s Justsweet fashion brand and Issey Miyake’s A-Poc, and has worked for brands like Adidas, Microsoft, Diesel and Lacoste. Designer Lotta Nieminen was selected by Forbes on the “30 under 30” list of young talents. Her clients include Hermès, The New York Times, Volkswagen, Google and Newsweek. 84 Discover Helsinki www.designmuseum.fi for more information. The annual Helsinki Design Week (September 1st–11th, 2016) is the largest design festival in the Nordic countries. The multidisciplinary festival presents design from a number of fields. Design X Finland (Unioninkatu 27) is devoted to the best of Finnish design. They sell an excellent selection of smaller Finnish design brands. For a more intensive introduction to design, join a guided tour to the Design District. See www.designtourshelsinki.com for more information.

61

SHOP PI NG Design icon Marimekko has several shops in Helsinki selling fresh and colourful products from clothing and accessories to household items. >>> T E XT BY H E LI-M A R IA W I I K Jussi Hellsten / Visit Finland Shop ‘til you drop in Helsinki Shopping in the centre of Helsinki is a pleasant experience, since the department stores and small design boutiques are all located within convenient walking distance. The best-stocked shopping streets in the downtown area are Mannerheimintie, Aleksanterinkatu, Kaisaniemenkatu, Iso Roobertinkatu, the two Esplanades (Pohjoisesplanadi and Eteläesplanadi, divided by the park), Bulevardi, and Fredrikinkatu. Opening Hours Department stores, many chain stores and the large supermarkets are normally open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 6 or 7 p.m. on Saturdays, and from 11 a.m. or 12 noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Depar tment stores The department stores in the heart of the downtown area are Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52 B, on the corner of Mannerheimintie, and with access from Keskuskatu and Pohjoisesplanadi), Sokos (Mannerheimintie 9), and Aleksi13 (Aleksanterinkatu 13). If your time for shopping is restricted, then Stockmann and its immediate environs on Aleksanterinkatu and Mannerheimintie is a sensible choice. The imposing edifice of the Stockmann store contains within its several floors a comprehensive selection of Finnish fashion and design articles. The cosmetics department on the ground floor has for instance the flagship outlet for the renowned Finnish cosmetics manufacturer Lumene. The store also has an extensive array of products by Finnish brand names such as Fiskars, Iittala and Arabia, and souvenirs from Finland can be found in abundance. Stockmann’s basement contains the Herkku food market and delicatessen, with an assortment that will satisfy the needs of even the most demanding culinary buff. Renowned for high quality, jeweller’s Esko Lindroos Oy serves customers on the seventh floor of Stockmann. The extensive selection includes jewellery and diamonds of the highest quality, watches, and Finnish and international top brands. Next door to Stockmann on the other side of Keskuskatu is Academic Bookstore (Akateeminen Kirjakauppa), located in a building designed by the celebrated architect Alvar Aalto. The bookstore is one of Europe’s largest, and has Helsinki’s most comprehensive assortment of foreign-language literature and a large press section. An underground passageway links the two establishments, or you can just step across the street. 86 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 87

SHO PPI NG Shopping Malls Should you want to shop and spend some time indoors, then the 150 outlets of the Kamppi Center (Urho Kekkosenkatu 1) offer a perfect opportunity under one roof. If you are looking for fashion, designer brands, sportswear and sports equipment, or products for teens and young adults, then they can all be found conveniently in here. Forum (Mannerheimintie 20) is a mall classic. It offers shoppers several floors of stores, cafés, and restaurants. Forum has an exceptionally good selection of jewellery, clothing and children’s clothing outlets. The clothes shopper might well want to take a look at the Finnish fashion store Seppälä and a Moomin fan might be eager to check out the Moomin Shop (products based on author Tove Jansson’s endearing Moomin characters). Galleria Esplanad is another newish mall, located below the luxurious Kämp Hotel, with entrances from Pohjoisesplanadi and Mikonkatu. As well as branded designer goods from familiar international names, Galleria Esplanad houses the Marimekko store. Also here is the Tarsala Creation shoe store. Designer Juha Tarsala is known around the world for his exclusive Italianmade shoes for women. Kluuvi Shopping Centre (Aleksanterinkatu 9) has about 35 businesses, including several sports stores. The shopping centre offers a mix of interesting international brand stores, Finnish retail concepts and restaurants. Outside the centre of town, there are a number of large entertainment and shopping complexes reachable by public transport, such as Itäkeskus (the largest shopping mall in the Nordic region, located on the Helsinki Metro in the eastern suburbs), Sello (in Espoo, by the Leppävaara rail station), Iso Omena (Matinkylä in Espoo), the newly extended Jumbo (in Vantaa, close to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport) and the newish Kaari (Kannelmäki in western Helsinki). The malls in the Helsinki area, as in anywhere in the world, are their own shopping microworlds. They are mainly occupied by the big store chains. The Esplana des and their cross streets The two Esplanades, running west from the Market Square and the South Harbour, act as a magnet for fashion and design outlets: Marimekko (Pohjoisesplanadi 31) is a world-class Finnish brand, founded in 1951 by Armi Ratia. The brand is particularly known for the bold and distinctive textile designs drawn by Maija Isola, such as Unikko, Kaivo, and Lokki. In the early 1960s, Marimekko was in the international trend vanguard, when style icon Jackie Kennedy took a liking to the Mari prints. Artek (Keskuskatu 1 B) is another internationally recognized quality design brand, founded in 1935. One of the founders was architect Alvar Aalto, one of the pre-eminent names in modern architecture. Aalto’s timeless designs and a rigorous attention to quality have kept Artek furniture and fittings in demand around the world for more than 70 years. A few years ago Artek started to collect old Aalto chairs from flea markets and wanted to give these classics a new lease on life. Artek 2nd Cycle (Pieni Roobertinkatu 4-6) sells these iconic second-hand chairs and vintage classics by designers like Charles and Ray Eames, Ilmari Tapiovaara and Arne Jacobsen. 88 Discover Helsinki

67 Let yourself be surprised by the new Forum New shops: K-Rauta Express, Mango, BikBok, Victoria’s Secret... Espresso House is our new lovely café forum.fi Mannerheimintie 14-20

SHO PPI NG Let’s find out what the best shopping locations are in Helsinki... The Iittala Group is a leading homeware design firm and a pioneering name in modern Scandinavian design. The company’s roots lie in the Iittala Glassworks, where the world-famous Aalto vases are blown (design by Alvar Aalto). The Iittala store is at Pohjoisesplanadi 25 also the place for top-quality Hackman cookware and cutlery, and the design gift items and tableware from Arabia (for instance Kaj Frank’s Teema collection). Nanso is a popular Finnish clothing line. These days it is particularly known for its young designers. Nanso is also a trailblazer in ethical, sustainable fashion, through its Fair Trade cotton collection. The Nanso store is at Mikonkatu 2. Vuokko (Pohjoisesplanadi 27) is a clothing brand founded by the celebrated Finnish textile and garment designer Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi. Vuokko’s clothes represent the classic Finnish design idiom. Before setting up her own company, Eskolin-Nurmesniemi was one of the front-line designers with Marimekko. Kalevala Koru / Lapponia Jewelry (Pohjoisesplanadi 25-27) design and manufacture bold and yet timeless jewellery items leaning heavily on Finnish culture and the national epic, Kalevala. The shop is located at a renovated historical block between the Market square and the Senate square. Aarikka’s (Pohjoisesplanadi 27) design is famous for its clear Scandinavian lines, round forms and use of wood as primary material. Aarikka presents two seasonal collections of both home design and beautiful handmade jewellery. Annikki Karvinen has created an international fashion line out of her hand-woven garments, particularly coats and jackets. Karvinen uses natural materials like cotton, linen, and silk (Pohjoisesplanadi 23). Boutique Kaarina K. is an outlet specialising in the top names in international fashion for women (such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Cartier, and Versace), and is located at Kasarmikatu 25. Louis Vuitton opened up a magnificent emporium in Helsinki a few years ago, on the corner of Pohjoisesplanadi and Mikonkatu. The LV-monogrammed bags and trunks of this French luxury fashion and leather goods name are known all over the world. For luxury eyewear, try Alain Mikli Boutique (Mikonkatu 2). The shop offers “frames to see as wells as to be seen”, as their slogan goes. Design district Design District Helsinki s a large cluster of stores, restaurants and more, with creativity as the common factor aside from their location, spreading out from the hub of the Diana Park in Erottaja, at the south end of Mannerheimintie, extending in all directions from the park. 90 Discover Helsinki

58 Pohjoisesplanadi 27, Helsinki Mon-Fri 10-19, Sat 10-17 Sun 12-17 shop online www.aarikka.com

72

Design District Helsinki brings together creative people in the heart of Helsinki. The district covers Punavuori, Kaartinkaupunki, Kamppi and Ullanlinna. Design District Helsinki The DDH blocks embrace some 25 streets and 170 stores, from jewellery workshops to tapas bars, from galleries to clothing shops and design agencies and interior architects, and even a couple of boutique hotels. There is no precise boundary to the area, and DDH is a kind of work in progress, living all the while. The places are easy to spot by the circular black “Design District” logo on the street doors. One among the many outlets definitely worth a visit is AERO Design Furniture (Yrjönkatu 8), where you can find classic pieces by renowned designers such Eero Aarnio, Tapio Wirkkala, Yrjö Kukkapuro, Paavo Tynell, Ilmari Tapiovaara, or Timo Sarpaneva. Fashionistas should check out Paola Suhonen’s IVANAhelsinki store (Uudenmaankatu 15), Limbo (Annankatu 13), fashion designer Ilona Pelli’s shop (Tarkk’ampujan-katu 1). Shoe designer Minna Parikka’s shop at Aleksanterinkatu 36 is a wonderland for women who love super-feminine, high-heeled shoes. Parikka’s shoes are often playful and seductive and have a retro feel. Fredrikinkatu, familiarly known as ”Freda”, is one of the Design District Helsinki shopping streets, and along both sides of its impressive length there are dozens of small boutiques selling fashionwear and home decoration items. Check out Casuarina (Fredrikinkatu 30) for timeless east-meetswest furniture, Pino (Fredrikinkatu 22) for the most charming small things or Peroba (Fredrikinkatu 33) for industrial style with a twist. It is also worth exploring the streets that branch off Fredrikinkatu. Bulevardi, for instance, is a great location for art galleries and antique shops, and where Bulevardi meets the sea at Hietalahti Discover Helsinki 93

SHOP PI NG Kallio and Hakaniemi represent Helsinki’s young, hip and urban side. there is a large and bustling flea-market in the summer months. See the boxed text on page 100 for more information. E xplore your hip side Kallio and Hakaniemi represent Helsinki’s young, hip and urban side. The area has been ranked as one of the 20 most hipster neighbourhoods in the world. The streets round here have a lot of small design and vintage/retro shops. One interesting walking-route is to head along Porthaninkatu towards Karhupuisto (”Bear Park” in English, and yes, there is a red granite sculpture of a bear, as well as a delightful kiosk café in the summer), and then through the park to Helsinginkatu. Kallio has treasures for those who keep their eyes open! Along the way it is worth stopping off at Ansa (Fleminginkatu 8), a little boutique that specialises in second-hand, vintage, and recycled and “redesigned” clothes, and then two doors along at Tapettitalo (Fleminginkatu 4), with a collection of 2,000 design wallpapers, for instance by Finnish designers Maaria Wirkkala and Ilmari and Annikki Tapiovaara. A few doors down you’ll find another delightful vintage store, Fargo Vintage, at Fleminginkatu 20. Welodrom Shop (Fleminginkatu 5) is a vintage store selling quality clothes from around Europe and the U.S. Quite nearby at Kaarlenkatu 12 Wanha Kaarle sells colourful design from the 1950–70’s. Made in Kallio (Vaasankatu 14) is a trendy design shop and coffee shop, but also a working space for artists, designers and craftspeople. Taste Finland The Market Square occupies a great site in the South Harbour at the eastern end of the two Esplanades. The market sells Finnish delicacies like crisp tiny muikku or vendace (from the salmon family), loimulohi or “blazed” salmon cooked over an open fire, and berries in season, like Arctic cloudberries, and of course strawberries galore. See the next article for further information on traditional Finnish food. There are also plenty of stalls selling handicrafts and souvenirs. On a fine day, it is worth dropping in for coffee at one of the market’s tented cafés. Many of the locals will be doing likewise, and tucking in to sticky jam doughnuts or a hot meat pie. 94 Discover Helsinki A few steps from the open-air market is the Old Market Hall (Wanha Kauppahalli), which is a big draw for gourmet shoppers. The market has undergone renovation recently. There is now a restaurant by Michelin-level chefs and pastry chefs. Browse the hall for Finnish delicacies or international flavours. This is a good place to fill your picnic basket for a daytrip to Suomenlinna. You can also try the open-air market and the market hall at Hakaniemi (metro Hakaniemi or trams 1, 3, 6, 7 and 9 from the city centre) that have food to please all palates, from truffle salami and fresh fish to vegetarian specialities and ecological food. The ground floor of the market hall is a gourmand’s paradise while the first floor gives home to several crafts, paperware and souvenir shops. They also run a popular flea market on summer Sundays. Organic food is very trendy in Finland at the moment. One of the best places to shop is Ruohonjuuri (Keskuskatu 6/ City-käytävä or Salomonkatu 5, next to the Kamppi shopping centre), an ecoshop with a large selection of organic products. Located a 10-minute walk away from the city centre, Anton&Anton (Museokatu 19) is well worth the walk. The stylish shop sells organic food by local producers and some of the coolest international eco brands. For those in a hurry, Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52) is always a safe bet. Off the Centre The Marimekko factory outlet is located at Kirvesmiehenkatu 7 in Herttoniemi, which is two stops before Itäkeskus on the same metro route. Expect plenty of company – the place is a pilgrimage spot for Marimekko fans. The Arabia Museum and Gallery at Hämeentie 135A, the location of the Arabia ceramics factory, has Arabia, Finlayson, Opa, and Pentik outlets. Discerning shoppers have a chance here to pick up some kitchenware, textiles, and ceramics finds at special prices. The Arabia Factory Outlet at Hämeentie 135A also sells Fiskars products. The Fiskars name is probably best associated with the company’s distinctive orange-handled scissors, which have been manufactured for 40 years, with over 900 million sold worldwide. •••

76 F I N N I S H D E S I G N HA ND BAGS, SH O ES A N D ACCE SS ORIE S Lu m i Su p er market Aleksanterinkatu 28 Helsinki W W W.LUMIACCESSORIES.COM

59 Anna Ruohonen Paris Concept store Anna Ruohonen Petite Maison de Couture Annankatu 13 00120 Helsinki 227 Boulevard Raspail 75014 Paris Tue-Fri: 11 - 18 Sat: 11 - 16 Tue-Fri: 12 - 19:30 Sat: 12 - 18 store@annaruohonen.com tel: +358 (0) 50 555 0966 boutique@annaruohonen.com tel: +33 (0) 6 37 50 65 75 www.annaruohonen.com Photo: Victor Matussiere

70 COATS, BAGS, SHOES AND ACCESSORIES FOR WOMEN Husk Fredrikinkatu 24, 00120 Helsinki tel. +358 50 4529118 www.husk.fi fide@husk.fi TED BAKER I MANUELA CONTI I HETREGÓ I NOBIS I G-LAB I RAINS I UGG I SUPERGA I RADLEY 62 H Shop men&women E L S I N K I Kauppakeskus Kamppi, 4th floor www.aukia.fi Shop men&women

79 74 LELUKAUPPA TOY SHOP A unique Toy Shop in the heart of Helsinki Climate friendly wooden toys and fair trade products. www.tingeling.fi Yrjönkatu 34, Helsinki 75 Kamppi Shopping Center Urho Kekkosen katu 1 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 6150 0115

73 66 A unique selection of maternity & nursing wear (sizes 32-48) children’s & youth fashion (sizes 40-170 cm) Children’s Shop Le Bunuell Children’s Brand Clothing shop Le Bunuell is located in downtown of Helsinki. Brands are: Monnalisa, Il Gufo, Lili Gaufrette, Kenzo, Ver de Terre, Billieblush, Boss, Timberland and etc. Bulevardi 5, 00120 Helsinki Opening hours: Monday–Friday 10.15–17.00 Saturday 10.15–15.00 Tel. +358 45 801 4140, Email: info@lebunuell.fi www.lebunuell.fi A wide collection of party wear all year round! Fredrikinkatu 57, Helsinki Sello Shopping Centre, Espoo Mylly Shopping Centre, Raisio OUTLET: Martinkyläntie 53, Vantaa www.fiilinki.com

SHOP PI NG 64 Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com +250 DIFFERENT TEA’S & ALSO TAKEAWAYS HIT THE FLEA MARKETS! The vintage fashion trend has not hit Finland as hard as several other European countries, but there are still quite a few flea markets and second-hand shops with quite reasonable prices in Helsinki. Hietalahdentori flea market, also known as Hietsu, is open from May to September Mon–Fri from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sat from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sun from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. A Helsinki classic, Hietsu is a great place for fun finds or just hanging out. It now has a serious conteder in Kattilahallin kirppis (Kaasutehtaankatu 1), a hugely popular monthly flea market in the trendy Suvilahti area, and Konepajan Bruno, open on Saturdays and Sundays (Aleksis Kiven katu 17 A). Second-hand shops in the centre include Kaivarin Kanuuna (Merikatu 3) and the UFF chain stores (Fredrikinkatu 36 or Iso Roobertinkatu 4–6). Siivouspäivä (Cleaning Day) turns Helsinki into a big second-hand market, where anyone can sell or give away their old things. It takes place every May on the Saturday of the week 21, and every last Saturday of August. For more info, see siivouspaiva.com. 100 Discover Helsinki CHAYA TEASHOP SHOPPING CENTER KLUUVI YLIOPISTONKATU 6,HELSINKI MON-FRI 11-20 SAT 10-18 WELCOME!

The oldest souvenir shop in Helsinki opposite the Temppeliaukio Church 60 • Knitwear • Finnish knives • Reindeer hides • Handicrafts • Målerås crystal • Souvenirs Since 1980 ANNENSOPPI OY / ANNE’S SHOP Fredrikinkatu 68, 00100 Helsinki, Tel. +358 9 445 823 OPEN EVERY DAY 9–18 (winter 9–17) www.annensoppi.com 69 Iso Roobertinkatu 16 00120 Helsinki www.goodkicks.fi

G A STRONOMY For a simple Finnish appetiser, serve gravlax on rye bread.>>> T E X T BY J U H A TA N T T U Kim Ekman / Visit Finland Restaurants and dining A Cavalcade of Four Gastronomic Seasons Finnish cuisine reflects the country’s location between east and west. You can also taste the endless summer days and the long winters in what Finnish cuisine has to offer. THOSE IN SEARCH of Finnish cuisine make their way to the market halls and market squares, which can be found in almost every locality. In Helsinki, the Market Square, or Kauppatori, is much used by the city’s residents, and many statesmen have savoured smoked Baltic herring bought fresh from fishing boats moored along the picturesque waterfront, or enjoyed their morning coffee with a fritter or a meat pie from a market stall. Local delicacies The four seasons and local specialities create a colourful display across the markets of Finland. In Tampere, for example, they sell hot black sausages, in Finnish (mustamakkara) and lingonberry sauce; in Turku, rusinamakkara, or raisin sausages, while in Pori in the autumn, fresh grilled river lampreys are sold in the market square. The traditions of pasty-making in Finland come from the east. In Savo, for instance, the kalakukko, a Finnish fish pasty, is a traditional dish, best bought fresh from the market squares in Kuopio. The kalakukko pasty is a plump round loaf of rye bread crust filled with slices of fish and pork, and baked slowly in an oven. Another popular variety of pasty is the Karelian rice pasty, karjalanpiirakka, which originates in Northern Karelia. A thin rye dough crust is filled with rice pudding, and served warm with butter. The shape of the pasty, as a tourist once pointed out, resembles a moccasin! These pasties are hugely popular and sold in every supermarket. As many Finns will say, rye bread is for the locals what spinach is for Popeye. Rye bread, whether a loaf of bread or a circular-shaped one with a hole in the middle, is traditionally made of sourdough to which only water, salt and flour are added. Incidentally, the reason for the hole in the middle of some loaves is that people used hang them to dry on poles that stretched across the ceiling. 102 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 103

104 Discover Helsinki RG EA SS TTARUORNAONMT YS

<<< Berries are widely used in Finnish delicacies. Kim Ekman / Visit Finland The mild sour tang typical of Finnish rye bread results from lactic fermentation and it has been used to flavour Finn crisps, thin and crispy rye breads baked with sourdough that are now a successful export product. In southwestern Finland and in the archipelago offshore, sour-sweet breads and malted breads are a speciality. There is also a black bread, called saaristolaisleipä; it is also found in northern parts of Finland, where blood may be added to produce a local variety of the recipe. Some Finnish breads are more like cakes. Pulla, a very popular Finnish bun, is usually enjoyed with coffee. Then there are cinnamon cakes, twists and rings (korvapuusti). And pies too filled with seasonal produce: in winter with curd cheese, in spring with rhubarb, in summer with fresh berries, and in autumn with apples. A variety of fish dishes A survey of a Finnish buffet table will give a fair impression of the variety and range of Finnish cuisine. Although quite similar to the Swedish smörgåsbord, the Finnish buffet has its own traditions, an important part of which is salted fish, including lightly salted whitefish and salmon, along with herring and Baltic herring in different kinds of sauces. The roe of whitefish and burbot is Finnish caviar at its best. Finns eat fish with boiled potatoes. A popular way of preparing fish is to smoke it. Salmon, whitefish and Baltic herring are both hot-smoked and cold-smoked, but it is popular to cook fish over an open fire too. A smoke bag, which is a Finnish idea, has come onto the market, making the smoking of fresh fish much easier. When eating salted or smoked herring people often have a small drink of Koskenkorva or Finlandia vodka – to toast your companions in Finnish you say kippis, the more Scandinavian way is to say skål. After the fish course, it is time to savour smoked reindeer or ham, meat in aspic, a beetroot salad called rosolli, and homemade cheese. A nice way to enjoy the Finnish buffet is on a sightseeing dinner cruise. You will find several companies offering a number of routes in the Market Square. Casseroles and stews The main course on the Finnish buffet-table is usually roasted meat. There are also different kinds of meat pots, such as Karjalanpaisti, or Karelian stew, which is prepared using different kinds of meats, and simmered for a long time in the oven. Casseroles of liver, macaroni, carrots or swedes are usually served as a side dish to the main meat platter. Other side dishes include pickled beetroot and cucumber, or lingonberry jam. Dishes from the Arctic are probably some of the most distinctive recipes to be enjoyed in Finland. After a hard day skiing on the fells of Lapland poronkäristys, or sautéed reindeer, takes some beating. It is a simple but very tasty dish served piping hot on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes, and enjoyed with a glass of chilled Lapin Kulta beer. This traditional dish is quite often seen on the menus of Helsinki’s many Finnish and Lapp restaurants. See the next article for more information on the restaurants. Charmed by berries The most popular Finnish desserts are made of berries. Many tourists have been charmed by the combination of cold, partfrozen cranberries covered with a hot caramel sauce. Another distinctively Finnish dessert from the north is juustoleipä, or bread cheese. It is usually warmed in the oven and topped with cloudberry jam. Finnish pancakes are characteristically small, and served with strawberry or raspberry jam. In summer, however, the lucky tourist may be invited to a party where they cook giant pancakes (muurinpohjaletut) in a large cast-iron pot outside in the garden. Food for all seasons Finnish cuisine also reflects the passage of the four seasons: cold, dark winters and long, warm summer days, the freshness of new spring growth and the abundant harvests of autumn combine in a rich variety of recipes and dishes. A real delicacy in January is burbot roe, and blini, a kind of pancake, topped with whipped or sour cream and chopped onDiscover Helsinki 105

RG EA SS TTARUORNAONMT YS Mämmi is a traditional Finnish Easter time dessert made from rye flour and malt. It is often said that mämmi divides people into the lovers and haters. Soili Jussila / Vastavalo / Visit Finland ion. During the blini season, several restaurants run blini theme weeks that take place for several weeks during January and February, depending on the restaurant. Many people think a winter burbot soup is the best soup of the year, done with potatoes, melted butter and chopped onion. Incidentally, the addition of milk or cream is characteristic of many Finnish fish soup recipes. In February, it is very cold outside, so people eat rather heavy foods such as thick soups. Curiously, pea soup has traditionally been eaten on Thursdays, and this dish is typically followed by pancakes with jam. Pea soup and pancakes should also be eaten on Laskiaistiistai, or Shrove Tuesday. 5th February is Runeberg’s Day, which commemorates Finland’s national poet, Johan Ludwig Runeberg (1804–77). The Finnish flag flies across the land and the little Runeberg sponge cakes are sold in confectioneries. 106 Discover Helsinki Joys of spring The arrival of Eastertide is a sign that the long winter is coming to its end. Mämmi, a malt-based pudding served with cream and sugar, is probably the most well-known. You either love it or hate it as it tends to be an acquired taste. Roast lamb is another traditional Easter dish, as are eggs and chicken. The Orthodox tradition brings sweet dishes such as pasha, kulitsa and baba, and children wait eagerly for Fazer’s Mignon chocolate eggs: a real eggshell filled with the finest chocolate. According to most Finns, May Day heralds the real arrival of spring. It is not just a public holiday it is the carnival day of the year throughout the country. With it comes Finnish doughnuts and tippaleipä, a pastry of sweet batter fried in hot oil. Sima, a type of mead is traditionally drunk on this day, and sparkling wines consumed enthusiastically.

92 Sausages and potatoes The summer in Finland starts on 1st June. Most Finns leave their city apartments for the tranquillity of the countryside and their summer cottages, which are usually situated by lakes. Barbecues are very popular, and smoked and grilled foods are prepared in the sunshine. Herbs, such as dill and parsley, are picked fresh from the garden to add flavours to the summer recipes. The lakeside sauna is another very important part of the Finnish summer experience, and after sauna, it is time for hot grilled sausages and cool beers. By June it is possible to buy fresh home-grown strawberries and small new potatoes, delicious when served with a dab of butter and fresh chopped dill. Rhubarb pies are another favourite. The highlight of the summer season is the Midsummer holiday, celebrated at the last weekend of June. Midsummer Eve means bonfires on the shores of lakes and sea alike, and naturally eating too: sausage, pancakes and smoked fish among others. The gastronomic culmination of the summer is 21st July, when the crayfish season begins. Even Finns living abroad like to come to home at this time to join their friends at the crayfish parties held all over the country. free wifi Har vest food Harvest time in Finland comes in August and September. People catch Baltic herring and flatfish from the sea, huntsmen shoot wild ducks and elk, and the forest yields its rich crops of edible mushrooms, lingonberries and cranberries. A bit later, seaside towns bustle with activity as the fishermen bring their catches to market: pickled fish, salted fish, and Baltic herring. The roes of vendace, whitefish and Baltic herring appear on the stalls too. This red caviar is one of the best in the world. In December, Finns get together probably more often than during the other winter months. They share a hot Christmas toddy, glögi, which is a hot spicy blackcurrant beverage in the tradition of glühwein. In restaurants they serve different kinds of herrings, salmon, ham and casseroles and dried codfish, of course. This Christmas dish is eaten with a thick milky sauce, melted butter and potatoes, and spiced with pepper. A typical dessert at Christmas time is the joulutorttu, a star-shaped plum tart, and from kitchens everywhere there is the wonderful aroma of spicy ginger biscuits cooking in hot ovens. ••• helsinki helsinki | aleksanterinkatu 21 | +358 (0)9 4282 6888 /HARDROCK.HELSINKI @HRCHELSINKI WWW.HARDROCK.COM/HELSINKI

107 Voted for best lunch in Helsinki. You’re warmly welcome! Albertinkatu 29 00180 Helsinki tel. +358 9 663301 Eteläesplanadi 8 00130 Helsinki tel. +358 9 663300 www.pompier.fi 90

103 110 STEAK HOUSE A UNIQUE, SMALL RESTAURANT IN CENTRAL HELSINKI SERVING LOCAL, HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS FROM SMALL PRODUCERS IN A CASUAL AND FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE. S I N C E 1 9 8 6 EXQUISITE WINE LIST GROOVY MUSIC LUNCH MON-FRI 10.30-16 FREE WI-FI RESTAURANT NATURA Iso Roobertinkatu 11, 00120 Helsinki +358 40 689 1111 www.RestaurantNatura.com www.facebook.com/NaturaHelsinki Open: Wednesday to Sunday from 5pm. to 01am. ETELÄESPLANADI 24, HELSINKI W W W. M A N H AT TA N S T E A K H O U S E . F I MON-TUE 10.30-23 WED-FRI 10.30-24 SAT 11-24 SUN 12-23

84 82 MEXICAN KITCHEN EATOS MEXICAN DINER is inspired by the classic street food style of Mexico City. Customers can enjoy the most exotic cocktails made of fresh mango and strawberry along with the delicious tacos and quesadillas. Their beautiful sun terrace is a hot spot during the summers if you want to enjoy your dinner while bathing in the sun until late in the night. WELCOME TO THE RENEWED Cantina West THE FOOD, SERVICE AND INTERIOR HAVE BEEN BROUGHT UP TO DATE AND MODERNIZED. OUR NEW DISHES ARE FRESH, RICH IN TASTE AND ALWAYS HAND-CRAFTED. *** When you enter the renewed Cantina West, you are greeted with a warm and happy atmosphere. WELCOME! BIENVENIDO! Kasarmikatu 23, 00130 Helsinki Mon-Tue 11–22 • Wed-Fri 11–24 • Sat 12–24 Tel. + 358 (0)20 742 4210 • booking@cantinawest.net www.cantinawest.net

106

From AM to AM 104 30 years of seafood delicacies with a great seaview Finnish and international cuisine 102 Mon-Tue 11-01 Wed-Fri 11-04 Sat 14-04 | Sun 14-01 Hietalahdenranta 14, 00180 Helsinki Information & table reservations: +358 (0) 960 7299 ravintola@merimakasiini.fi www.merimakasiini.fi Dagmarinkatu 2, Helsinki Finland tel. +358 (0) 9 580 777 07| www.botta.fi Restaurant Kolmon3n offers modern high quality home cooking. Our dishes are created using clean flavours sourced from the best local and Scandinavian ingredients. Restaurant Loung3 serves high quality food with the emphasis on social eating and sharing. Clean flavours, high quality produce and international influences build the base of the kitchen and bar. We serve lunch Monday to Friday from 10.30am until 15.30pm. And á la carte Monday – Saturday from 16.30pm until 23.00pm. Loung3 is open Monday to Friday from 3pm – 11pm, Saturday 12pm – 11pm and Sunday 11am - 3pm Step inside and enjoy dining with us in the heart of Kallio at Restaurant Kolmon3n. 99 101 Restaurant Kolmon3n Kolmas linja 11, 00530 Helsinki +35 44 775 3333 varaus@kolmon3n.com www.kolmon3n.com Restaurant Loung3 Kolmas Linja 18, 00530 Helsinki +358 44 9887457 varaus@ravintolaloung3.com www.ravintolaloung3.com

109 108 Restaurant Pääkonttori Vilhonkatu 7, 00100 Helsinki, Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel Tel. +358 20 1234 800, www.raflaamo.fi Traditional Restaurant Arthur In the heart of Helsinki since 1957 95 • daily tasty Scandinavian breakfast buffet • popular lunch buffet • à la carte with Finnish and international dishes Hotel Arthur Vuorikatu 19, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 173 441 reception@hotelarthur.fi www.hotelarthur.fi - 200 meters from the railway station -

RESTAURA NTS T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N For many Finns, the crayfish season is the highlight of the culinary year. People dress up and head for the island and rooftop restaurants to savour the delicious crustaceans. >>> Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com Fresh and local – Restaurants in Helsinki Take a culinary trip around Helsinki and fall in love with the versality and pureness of Finnish cuisine. For a small city, Helsinki can offer a wide range of restaurants catering to every taste. IN THE LAST decade, Finland has seen the rise of New Nordic Kitchen that calls for a new take on the traditional local foods. The innovative new cuisine relies on the freshness and the pure, intense taste of Finnish top-quality ingredients. Helsinki takes food seriously. There is even a food strategist whose job is to promote food culture development in Helsinki. The global trend of preferring local food is tangible here, too. The best restaurants in Helsinki have taken a pride in Finnish ingredients and seasonal thinking. Using the best local raw materials, many top chefs blend traditional Finnish cuisine with French or Mediterranean influences. A few of the top restaurants in Helsinki have closed their doors during the past couple of years due to the current economical situation. The trend is now toward street food and relaxed, bistrostyle small restaurants. Stars and classics Helsinki’s top-rated restaurants offer high-quality food in stylish settings. Many of the best restaurants are located either in the city centre or a short walk off it. Especially during high season, you should make a reservation in the top restaurants. Main dishes will cost anything from 20 up to 70 or 80 euros. Ask (Vironkatu 8, www.restaurantask.com) is an intimate restaurant with 26 seats offering a daily set menu. They source their produce from small organic farmers and producers. Olo (Pohjoisesplanadi 5, www.olo-ravintola.fi) serves up New Nordic food. This owner of a Michelin star is renowned for seasonal thinking and good, even quality. Pricey, but tasty. Have a drink before dinner in the stylish inner courtyard. Savoy (Eteläesplanadi 14, www.ravintolasavoy.fi) is a classic established in 1937. It hasn’t rested on its laurels since then, either. The Sunday Times Travel Magazine named Savoy the most romantic dining spot in Helsinki. The restaurant makes the finest healthy food in town and also serves signature dishes like vorschmack, a salty meat dish prepared out of minced meat, herring and onions. Juuri (Korkeavuorenkatu 27, www.juuri.fi) serves food that is proudly Finnish. The small restaurant is best known for its sapas, tasty Finnish tapas bites. The rustical yet polished interior makes a great setting for the food that is contemporary but remembers its roots. 114 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 115

RESTAURA NTS 116 Discover Helsinki

<<< Restaurant Muru is a bistro style restaurant located in the heart of Helsinki. Muru’s idea is to offer fresh well made food from the best ingredients available daily. Visit Finland The HelsinkiMenu was created to introduce Finland’s highquality ingredients and Helsinki chefs’ expertise. The menus offered by the participating restaurants offer an extensive range of Finnish cuisine and gather the characteristics of the Finnish food culture. Try the menu for example at Graniittilinna (Säästöpankinranta 6) or KuuKuu (Museokatu 17). Stylish and independent The trend in Helsinki now calls for independently owned, chef-run bistros. Many of these restaurants are quite small, so a reservation is recommended. Chef &  Sommelier (Huvilakatu 28, www.chefetsommelier.fi) gained its Michelin star this year. The tiny restaurant uses local organic and wild ingredients, many of which they have grown or picked themselves. Kuurna (Meritullinkatu 6, www.kuurna.fi) serves well-made food without gimmicks. Every two weeks, there is a new menu with 3 starters and 3 main courses. The décor emphasizes the no-nonsense idea. This nice bistro is highly recommended. Muru (Fredrikinkatu 41, www.murudining.fi) is a tiny restaurant owned by Finnish celebrity chefs. It has been praised for its focus on quality ingredients. The menu changes daily and the service is friendly. Baskeri & Basso or BasBas (Tehtaankatu 27-29, www.basbas.fi) is one of the most interesting newcomers in Helsinki. They serve excellent Italian-inspired food in an urban setting. This is the place to come if you feel peckish in the late hours as their kitchen stays open until 2 a.m. Street food There is a food revolution going on in Helsinki. The streets of the city have been taken over by street food. Now there are food trucks and café bikes touring the city as well as several street food events – see boxed text on page 123. The restaurant Fafa’s (www.fafas.fi) now has four branches around Helsinki. Loved by vegetarians and meat-eaters as well, this fast-food restaurant is known for its delicious falafel. The most popular dish is pita with falafel and halloumi, ordered by 50 % of the customers. Street Gastro (www.streetgastro.fi) used to be just a food truck owned by two ambitious top chefs. Now it is a chain of five restaurants serving gourmet sandwiches. Döner Harju (Fleminginkatu 23, Kallio district) was created when its owners wanted Helsinki to have a place that served good kebab like they do in Berlin. The place has a cool minimalistic interior and is often packed with eager fans of kebab. A nice way to enjoy excellent fast food is to visit Hernesaarenranta, a summer patio, bar and party area that also serves street food ranging from sushi to Thai food, skewers, crepes and trendy bowls. Gourmet hamburgers are a big trend in Helsinki right now. Naughty BRGR (Lönnrotinkatu 13) offers a short menu of superb handmade burgers and delicious sides. The stylish place is run by one of Finland’s top chefs. A short walk down the street from Naughty BRGR, you will find the Rosburger, the bearer of the title “The best burger in Helsinki” made by Roslund (Hietalahti market hall, Lönnrotinkatu 34). Ethnic flavours Ethnic food is one of the hottest trends right now and Helsinki has several upscale ethnic restaurants. You can grab a quick sushi in numerous small sushi places in Helsinki. For a more intimate dinner, try Kabuki (Lapinlahdenkatu 12, www.kabuki.fi), favoured by rock and media types. Another favourite is modern Raku Ya (Eteläranta 14) serving izakaya style Japanese food. Farang (Ainonkatu 3, www.farang.fi) is a modern Asian restaurant with a simple and stylish décor. The food is contemporary, fresh and innovative. Gaijin (Bulevardi 6, www.gaijin.fi) by the same owners offers modern North Asian flavours. Most of the dishes are meant to be shared. Both Gaijin and Farang have gained a Bib Gourmand rating for offering good food at moderate prices. If you crave for Mexican food, try Patrona (Annankatu 20) or Cholo (Lönnrotinkatu 9). Eatos Mexican Diner (Töölönlahdenkatu 3) is inspired by the classic street food style of Mexico City and has elevated it to a higher level. Lie Mi (Hämeentie 13 B, www.liemi.fi) is one of the hottest new names in the Helsinki ethnic food scene. Vietnamese food is still a rarity in Helsinki, but this humble place inside the Bar Siltanen offers authentic flavours. They also have Asian brunch on Saturdays. Discover Helsinki 117

RESTAURA NTS Brunch is one of the biggest culinary trends in Helsinki at the moment. Brunch Brunch is one of the biggest culinary trends in Helsinki at the moment. It is a safe bet when you are hungry and craving for comfort food as it is relatively cheap, and you mostly get loads of hearty food. And, what’s more, it is very family friendly as you can bring your kids along. One of the first to serve trendy brunch was Dylan (dylan.fi), now a chain of casual eateries. They have two very popular branches in central Helsinki, Dylan Milk (Porkkalankatu 5) and Block by Dylan (Eteläesplanadi 2) that serve only breakfast, lunch and brunch. Making a reservation for the brunch is highly recommended. The very stylish yet informal Block has nice views over the market and sea. Sandro (Kolmas linja 17 & Tehtaankatu 34, www.sandro.fi) is one of the most popular brunch places in Helsinki. The brunch is often fully booked weeks beforehand, so make a reservation. The serve excellent North African food and the atmosphere is relaxed. For something a bit different, try Moko Market (Perämiehenkatu 10, www.moko.fi), a bohemian restaurant in a cool and rustic home décor shop. They serve brunch on Saturdays from 10 a.m. until 1.30 p.m. A reservation is not mandatory, but guarantees you a table. Another great option is Kääntöpöytä (kaantopoyta.fi), an urban farming centre located in a former railway yard that serves organic vegan brunch on summer Sundays. Russian cuisine Russian restaurants are great for a good meal in warm and cosy surroundings. The top picks are Šašlik with its private rooms and Russian troubadours (Neitsytpolku 12, www.asrestaurants.com) and Bellevue (Rahapajankatu 3, www.restaurantbellevue.com), the oldest Russian restaurant in Helsinki. Troikka (Caloniuksenkatu 3, www.troikka.fi) has been around since the 1920s. The restaurant has a unique atmosphere and serves classic Russian dishes like Chicken Kiev. Bystro Blinilä (Eteläranta 16, www.bystro.fi) is a newcomer among the Russian restaurants of Helsinki and quite a lot more modern and relaxed than the others. They make fine dining out of blinis - Slavic pancakes – and other traditional Russian dishes, and serve vodka by the gram in their edgy vodka bar. 118 Discover Helsinki A few tram stops off the centre in the Kallio area, Pelmenit (Kustaankatu 7) serves pelmenis, or Russian raviolis. Expect very reasonable prices and a real Eastern European atmosphere. Located also in Kallio, Blinit (Sturenkatu 9) is a café serving delicious and inexpensive Russian pancakes and soups. A taste of Finland Traditional Finnish food can be hard to find in Helsinki, as most of the fine dining places have French or Mediterranean influences. You can try the restaurants listed below for Finnish and Lapp favourites. Another good way to have a taste of Finnish delicacies is to try them at lunch time – a number of restaurants serve Finnish classics like pea soup, casseroles or meat balls for lunch. Savotta (Aleksanterinkatu 22, www.asrestaurants.com) is located in the heart of tourist Helsinki by Senaatintori square. Decorated with old wood and serving its dishes on traditional Finnish china, everything matches the menu that includes lake fish, casseroles and game. If you are feeling particularly strong, try their tar-flavoured Sisu ice cream. Aino (Pohjoisesplanadi 21, www.ravintolaaino.fi) uses domestic raw materials and seeks inspiration from traditional Finnish cuisine. The decor is a bit more upmarket and classy than many of the competitors’. Kahvila Suomi (Pursimiehenkatu 12, www.kahvilasuomi.fi) is populated all year round by hungry locals, media types and Japanese travellers, the latter drawn here because the Japanese movie Kamome Diner was set at Kahvila Suomi. This charmingly plain restaurant offers hearty, affordable food. Saaga (Bulevardi 34 B, www.asrestaurants.com) serves Lapp food. The Lapp cuisine has been based on what the rough nature and short summer can offer; thus, the flavours are intense and the dishes are simple but alluring. The menu here includes reindeer, fish, bear and berries. Established some 15 years ago and thus the first Lapp restaurant in Helsinki, Lappi (Annankatu 22, www.lappires.com) gives you a taste of Northern flavours. You’ll find all the Lapp staples from salmon, reindeer and elk to cloudberries here in an interior imitating a log cottage.

89 BEST-EVER STEAKS. TO ENJOY Eteläranta 14, Helsinki Tel.: +358 (0) 5041 98000 Shopping Centre Iso Omena, Espoo www.steak.fi Black Angus beef is the best in the world for preparing real steaks. Special technologies of cultivation and forage of bull-calves gives it exellent marbling and unique taste. Steaks are prepared in unique chartcoal furnaces called Josper, made in Spain Viru 22, Tallinn Tel.: +372 661 5518 www.steak.ee

86 Factory Kamppi Breakfast, Lunch, A la Carte, Bar & Brunch Autotalo - centre Runeberginkatu 3, 00100 Helsinki www.factorykamppi.com Reservations: www.factorykamppi.com/poytavaraus Opening hours: Mon 7 AM - 9 PM Tue - Fri 7 AM - 11 PM Sat 12 noon - 11 PM Su 11 AM - 9 PM 85 We kindly ask you to make your reservations via E-mail, telephone or the fill-out-form on our website at: www.ravintolafactory.com Factory Aleksi Lunch & A la Carte aleksi@ravintolafactory.com tel: 010 3205522 Aleksi 13 shopping centre, 5th. floor. Entrance trough the stairway A. Aleksanterinkatu 13, 00100 Helsinki Opening hours: Weekdays 10 AM - 8.30 PM Sat 9 AM - 6 PM

98 Kolme Kruunua (Liisankatu 5, www.kolmekruunua.fi), established in 1952, serves traditional Finnish food. Their signature dish is meatballs with mash, and the popular herring dish is also delicious. Finnjävel (Eteläranta 16, www.finnjavel.fi) is a unique, profoundly Finnish fine dining restaurant. They use traditional, sometimes forgotten, Finnish cooking methods ambitiously and create something for the future. Your daily dose of coffee 88 The Finns are the greatest coffee drinkers in the world, with about ten daily cups each. You can start your introduction to light-roasted Finnish coffee in the middle of Helsinki at Pohjoisesplanadi, which gives home to several cafés. Try the constantly crowded Café Esplanad (Pohjoisesplanadi 37) for a huge cinnamon roll or a fresh salad. Café Aalto at Akateeminen Kirjakauppa (Keskuskatu 1) is a stylish and minimalistic café in a sedate bookstore setting. A great place for browsing through your purchases! Karl Fazer Café (Kluuvikatu 3) is a Helsinki classic established in 1891. Try the café-deli for a nice cup of coffee and hand-made chocolates or cakes made by their own bakery. If you would rather enjoy your coffee break after a good sightseeing, head slightly off the city centre. While visiting the Sibelius Monument, take a short walk across the Sibelius park to Café Regatta (Merikannontie 10). A genuine, cosy atmosphere, a great place by the sea. And, they even pay you back 5 cents for every coffee refill. Naturally, the seaside has a huge pull in sunny summer days, and Kaivopuisto park is one of the most popular spots. Enjoy the view over the sea at Café Carusel (Merisatamanranta 10). It has outdoor tables crowded with locals and travellers alike trying to catch a few rays. What better way to spend a summer day doing absolutely nothing! From there, take a leisurely walk to the more trendy and upmarket Mattolaituri (Ehrenströmintie 3 A) that allures passers-by to enjoy champagne and coffee with a great view. Grab a drink and watch sailboats pass by. Or visit the traditional seaside café and restaurant Café Ursula (Ehrenströmintie 3). Café Ekberg (Bulevardi 9) is a classic. It is highly recommended for a coffee and a cake, but you can also try their lunch or breakfast. The place often gets quite busy with well-to-do older ladies. ••• Discover Helsinki 121

100 Bistro - Bar - Summer Terrace Sauna & Meeting Rooms Lapinlahdenkatu 3 00180 Helsinki (Kamppi) p. 040 739 7798 madame@madame.fi www.madame.fi www.facebook.com/krogmadame 91 tel. 87 Hietalahti Market Hall, Lönnrotinkatu 34, 00180 Helsinki

Streat Helsinki is all about street food. Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com FOOD FESTIVALS TAKE OVER THE STREETS food vendors cook their hearts out on the streets of Helsinki. See www.streathelsinki.com for more information. Restaurant Day is an original Finnish idea, a food carnival where anybody can open a popup restaurant for a day. The restaurants Taste of Helsinki takes place in mid-June in Kansalaistori. This food can be anywhere – at a park, at a private home or a workplace – and festival calls itself a boutique picnic where the best Finnish restau- serve anything from cakes to intestines, from organic specialities rants prepare the food for you. This year the festival takes place June to ethnic dishes. Restaurant Day’s birthday is celebrated annually 16th–19th. every third Saturday of May. See www.restaurantday.org/en/ for more information. Dinner in the Sky is an international event that visits Helsinki for the fifth time this year. A table with 22 guests is suspended at a height of Streat Helsinki EATS brings together the best of street food once a 50 metres to enjoy a dinner cooked exclusively for them by local top year in May. For an entire weekend, Finnish and international street chefs. The event takes place at Rautatientori, August 2nd–7th. Discover Helsinki 123

97 93 Restaurant Helmi would be a perfect choice if you are looking for a special dining experience! Founded in 1827 and rich in tradition, Kaisaniemi is the oldest restaurant and bar in Finland, frequented by Marshall Mannerheim and Jean Sibelius in their time. Kaisaniemi is located close to the heart of Helsinki in the Kaisaniemenpuisto park. We offer our guests the most impressive lunch in the town just for 15 euros price per person. Helmi brings you an amazing dining experience with watching freshly prepared meat, seafood and vegetables cooked in front of you whilst you enjoy your meal. We also serve hot dishes, salads, sushi, rices and noodles which combine seasonal Finnish ingredients with Japanese flavors and cooking styles. RESTAURANT HELMI Eerikinkatu 14, 00100 Helsinki, Tel. +358 9 612 6410 www.ravintolahelmi.fi Kaisaniementie 6, 00100 Helsinki, www.sinunjuhlasi.fi Information & table reservations: Tel. +358 9 632 223 myynti@ravintolakaisaniemi.fi

the Best Italian coffee... ciaocaffe.fi 83 and home made artisan ice cream winebar Italian caffé winebar @ Senate Square w/ Cathedral view Forum Mall Unioninkatu 27 / Aleksi 28 Pohjoisesplanadi 33 Mannerheimintie 20 Galleria Esplanad italian CIAO! Caffe coffee & gelato

80 ANTIOKIA ATABAR Turkish Cuisine A pleasant restaurant with authentic Turkish cuisine. Eerikinkatu 44 Tel. (09) 694 0367 Monday – Friday 14 – 24 Saturday 13 – 24 Sunday 13 – 23 www.antiokiabar.com 111 94 105 93 Restaurant Mount Kailash team is delighted to bring you an eclectic range of authentic Nepali cuisine. Our menu offers you a choice of contemporary Nepalese dining, along with Chicken, Lamb, regional seafood and vegetarian dishes. Moreover, Naan breads and various Tandoor dishes have also been included in our menu. RESTAURANT MOUNT KAILASH Tyynenmerenkatu 5, 00220 Helsinki Email: mountkailash.nepal@gmail.com Table reservations: Tel. +358 44 449 6050 www.mountkailash.fi Yeti Nepal – The Nepalese restaurant at Ruoholahti Welcome to enjoy and feel yourselves comfortable to have an original Nepalese meal in a great atmosphere! YETI NEPAL Nepalese Cuisine Itämerenkatu 12, 00180, Helsinki, Tel/fax 09-6933010 Mon-Thu 10.30-22, Fri 10.30-23, Sat 12-23, Sun 12-22 www.yetinepal.fi

96 94 A little piece of real India. Simonkatu 8, 00100 Helsinki | +35850 4630155 | www.indiahouse.fi 123 81 PATAÄSSÄ Open: Mon-Tue 17-03 Wed-Thu 17-04, Fri 15-04 Sat 09-04, Sun 09-03 Snellmaninkatu 13 00170 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 626 076 E-mail: pataassa@sijo.fi www.karaokebar.net 116 Erottaja Night EROTTAJA NIGHT Open: every night 20-04 Erottajankatu 15-17 00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 611 196 E-mail: erottaja@sijo.fi www.karaokebar.net

NIG H TLI FE T E XT BY A R I L AH DE N MÄK I & SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Helsinki’s bars and clubs are lively places, offering something for everyone. For example Shaker is a show cocktail-bar with an extensive drinklist. >>> Jussi Hellsten / Visit Helsinki / helsinki365.com Bars and nightlife and no dress-codes Helsinki has a lively bar culture catering for every taste. The nightlife warms up for the weekend with eager partyers swinging from bar to bar. BARS IN HELSINKI open their doors at 9 a.m. or later; the licensing laws prohibit anything of an alcoholic nature being sold before then, so early liquid breakfasts are out. At the other end of the dial, the latest of the nightclubs send their customers packing by 4 a.m. If you are out late in Helsinki, particularly at the weekend, you can prepare yourself for some queuing, both to get in for a drink and to secure a taxi-ride home. However, the good news is that Helsinki is nearly free of the sort of places that you find across Europe from Stockholm southwards – the ones that pay strict attention to the attire of their prospective customers. Just as long as you don’t turn up in a jogger’s tracksuit and drip sweat all over the doorman’s shoes, the doors to a Helsinki restaurant will open to you. How long you may have to wait rather depends on the day you choose. Going out is weighted towards the weekends. On Friday and Saturday nights the bars and clubs are jumping, but from Sunday through Tuesday you might wonder how it is possible to operate a capital city with so few people to work with. On Wednesday and Thursday things start warming up again for the weekend. Even at the weekends, the Helsinki locals do not tend to stay long cooling their heels in the same place. The custom is to swing from bar to bar in the course of an evening, and to wind up at a nightclub in the small hours. As Helsinki is a small city, many of the bars are within a walking distance from each other. Here are some of the best places, among them cocktail bars, music venues and some Helsinki specialities. Cocktails Finns have had a reputation of hard drinking. The nation’s favourite drinks have been beer and vodka, but there is a rapidly growing cocktail culture with a handful of bars that take cocktails seriously. One of the most famous cocktail bars in Helsinki is award-winning A21 (Annankatu 21), a pioneer in the city’s cocktail scene. A21 serves innovative cocktails and invites you to experience pure tastes. Sling In (Mikonkatu 8) is one of the oldest cocktail bars in Helsinki, having started in 1999 when cocktail culture was still young in Finland. The casual bar offers an exhaustive list of cocktails while rock music plays. Sling In is located inside a small mall and can be a bit hard to find. 128 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 129

NIG H T LI FE On Friday and Saturday nights the bars and clubs are jumping. Navy Jerry’s (Hietaniemenkatu 2) have a love of rum. This naval-themed 1950s bar is often boisterous with a packed dance floor. It is not just a bar, but a nightclub and restaurant as well. So if you feel a bit peckish after all the cocktail-tasting, have a little something from their kitchen. Liberty or Death (Erottajankatu 5) is a small and dark bar that serves only cocktails. The ambitious and skilled bartenders can create you the most amazing drinks. The dimly lit tiny bar has an exclusive feel to it. Grotesk Bar (Ludviginkatu 10), a few doors away from Liberty or Death, is all about properly made cocktails with an easy-to-approach atmosphere. They are also specialists in hand-cut clear ice and they have a thing for gin. Trillby and Chadwick (Katariinankatu) is a bar with first-rate service and great cocktails – and a bit of mystery. It is a “secret” bar that does not reveal even its exact address, although the street it is on is very short. Decorated like an English gentleman’s club, this is a place to sit down and enjoy a top-notch drink. Beer and more beer Finland used to have – basically – one beer. All the breweries used to make the same type of lager with almost no alternatives. Now, luckily, the trend has changed and Finns have a growing interest in beer. There are several new beer-serving bars with a large selection of craft beers. Bier Bier (Erottajankatu 13) aims to make beer-tasting easy. The cosy and dark bar places emphasis on European craft beers. There is also a selection of Finnish beers. Bryggeri Helsinki (Sofiankatu 2) is located conveniently next to the Helsinki Cathedral where the tourist buses stop, so you can refresh yourself after a good day’s sightseeing. The brewery restaurant serves also pub food and a la carte dishes. You can watch the brewmaster at work while enjoying your beer. Brewdog (Tarkk’ampujankatu 20) was born when the Scottish Brewdog brewery asked their blog followers where should they open their next bar. The answer was Helsinki and this bar with an industrial vibe to it. They have 20 taps and feature some of the best Finnish beers alongside their own. Tommy Knocker Craft Beer Bar (Iso Roobertinkatu 13) is a stylish small bar named after an American microbrewery. It is the first branded American craft beer bar in Finland. They have an impressive selection of 60+ American craft beers and some of the best American-style Finnish beers. 130 Discover Helsinki

121

124 䤀一吀刀伀䐀唀䌀䤀一䜀 吀䠀䔀 䈀䔀匀吀 一伀刀䐀䤀䌀 䌀伀䌀䬀吀䄀䤀䰀 䈀䄀刀 伀䘀 ㈀　㄀㔀 119 120 匀䠀䄀䬀䤀一䜀 匀䤀一䌀䔀 ㈀　　㘀 䄀吀 䘀刀䔀䐀刀䤀䬀䤀一䬀䄀吀唀 㔀㘀 匀唀一 ⴀ 吀䤀 ㄀㠀 ⴀ ㈀㐀 ⠀　㈀⤀ 圀䔀䐀 ⴀ 吀䠀唀 ㄀㘀 ⴀ ㈀㐀 ⠀　㈀⤀ 䘀 刀 䤀   ⴀ   匀 䄀吀   ㄀ 㘀   ⴀ   　 ㈀

Helsinki Rock City Finland is the heavy metal capital of the world, as the saying goes, and Helsinki is a rock city with lots of rock bars to keep you rocking all night long. Loose (Annankatu 21) simply reeks of rock-cred. This is where everybody from the local rock scene loves to hang out. The bar has live gigs and hosts popular parties and clubs, and the jukebox carries a broad selection from Iggy Pop (who has, actually, visited the bar) to Tom Waits, via The Who, James Brown, and local talent. Enough said. Bar Bäkkäri (Pohjoinen Rautatienkatu 21) is a rock bar with some serious attitude. Bäkkäri (“Backstage” in Finnish) has a live music venue upstairs and a bar with a hard rock vibe downstairs. They have lots of rock memorabilia, screens playing music videos and all kinds of theme nights. Located centrally next to the main railway station, On the Rocks (Mikonkatu 15) is a two-story rock bar and live music club with several live music nights every week. Helsinki’s biggest and ballsiest rock-club Tavastia gets the hottest acts that haven’t gone onto the arena circuit, and at the smaller, steamy Semifinal in the same block at Urho Kekkosen katu 4–6 you can catch promising artists on the way up and the best names in the underground scene. Outside these rock venues, live music can be heard at Korjaamo Culture Factory (Töölönkatu 51 a-b), a venue for smaller bands from rock to jazzy soul. Kuudes Linja is an underground club (Hämeentie 13) with DJs and live acts playing anything from electronica to reggae. They even have children’s disco matinees! Nosturi (Telakkakatu 8) is operated by the local live music association. The venue has a capacity of 900 and offers a broad variety of music genres from black metal to hip hop. Looking for something special? …where the hip people are? Siltanen (Hämeentie 13) is a bar/club/restaurant with live music and DJs, a big terrace for sunny summer days and a dance floor for wild partying with cool arty types. Steam Hellsinki (Olavinkatu 1) is the first steampunk bar in Helsinki, with danceable electro swing tunes and a great love for detail from the zeppelin-shaped bar to lots of mechanical instruments. They serve great drinks and have over 40 gins from which to choose. …the gay scene? For a small city, Helsinki has an active gay scene. Many of the gay bars are located centrally. Helsinki is quite glbt-friendly; the city even has a “Gay Friendly Helsinki” network that brings together companies providing quality services for glbt visitors. One of the biggest gay icons, Tom of Finland, originated from Helsinki. The art of Tom of Finland has been recently seen in a set of stamps published by the Finnish post, and in a textile product range by Finlayson. Hercules (Lönnrotinkatu 4) is a popular gay night club in the city centre, catering mostly to men over 30. The partying can often get rowdy, fun and outrageous. Dtm (Mannerheimintie 6) is one of the largest nightclubs in the Nordic countries. The crowd is often younger than at Hercules, and the weekend nights can be even more frisky and boisterous. …great views? A must meeting-point in good weather is up at the Ateljee Bar (Kalevankatu 5). You can find this place by heading for the Sokos Hotel Torni (the sort of mini-skyscraper-looking building in the dead centre of town) and taking the elevator up to the 12th floor and the tiny spiral staircase one more level. There’s art on the walls but the main event is outside: the view from here over the city centre is great, and on warm days they open up the rooftop terrace. If you feel restless just sitting in one bar, but a pub crawl is too much for you, Spårakoff the pub tram is the answer. You can order a drink and enjoy Helsinki’s best sights for an hour. You can hop on the tram at five marked stops: at the central railway station, Linnanmäki, Opera House and Market Square tram stops. …par tying hard the Finnish way? What happens, if you combine Octoberfest and the Finnish way of celebrating Mayday eve (i.e drinking and being merry)? Rymy-Eetu (Erottajankatu 15-17) is a bar where singing is not only allowed but even encouraged. There are also brass bands and waitresses sporting German milk-maid type clothes. If that’s a bit too much for you, Raffaello (Aleksanterinkatu 46) and its neighbouring bars and restaurants have outdoor tables along the Wanha Kauppakuja courtyard. Known as Mummotunneli, “the Granny Tunnel”, this is a hot party hub for the well-to-do over-30 set. ••• Discover Helsinki 133

N I G HT LIFE 112 Welcome to ALCATRAZ EROTIC POLE DANCE • DJ • VIP-LOUNGE OPEN EVERY DAY 20.00-04.00 Eerikinkatu 3, Helsinki, info@alcatraz.fi

SO M E N IG HT C LU B S I N H E L S I N K I Apollo Live Club Located in a former movie theatre in the heart of the city, Apollo has live entertainment three or four nights a week. You can enjoy live music, theatre performances and stand-up comedy there. Kaivohuone Located in the Kaivopuisto park, this summer restaurant has seven bars inside and over 400 seats outdoors. Built as a spa in the 1830’s, this grand old lady has recently been restored to its former glory. Namu Club Namu is one of the most elite, exclusive and edgy nightclubs in Helsinki. Location and the party terrace right opposite of railway station guarantees, that your night will be unforgettable. Mannerheimintie 16, city centre Open: Fri–Sat 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.apolloliveclub.fi/helsinki Iso Puistotie 1, Kaivopuisto Club open From May to August: Wed, Fri, Sat www.kaivohuone.fi Keskuskatu 8, city centre Club Open: Tue–Sun 10 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)600 41 8730 www.namu.fi The Circus Open to the public mainly in the weekends, this large night club offers club nights and live artists. For those who feel like singing, The Circus features enclosed karaoke cubicles. Lady Moon A small, and intimate club with a highly qualified staff to quench the thirst of cocktail craving partiers. Music is versatile to please the adult customer. Kaarle XII If you are looking for the place to be on a weekday night, Thursdays at Kaarle XII are hugely popular year after year. The bar has been on the ‘Best place to party’ top 5 list of the City magazine for nearly 20 years. Salomonkatu 1–3, Kamppi Tel. +358 (0)10 423 3231 www.thecircus.fi Kaivokatu 12, city centre Open: Every day 10 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)40 533 6920 www.ladymoon.fi Dtm Dtm is the largest gay night club in Scandinavia. They host parties from club nights to drag shows. Frequented by local celebrities, straight couples and gays alike, this is one of the hottest spots in town for the open-minded. Milliklubi The latest R&B and dance hits fill the dance floor. The bar’s specialties include Blackjack and Roulette tables for entertainment. Party every night 10 p.m.–4 a.m.! Mannerheimintie 6 B, city centre Open: Mon–Sun 9 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)10 841 6969 www.dtm.fi Kaivokatu 12, city centre Open: Every day 10 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)9 278 5620 www.milliklubi.fi Kasarmikatu 40, city centre Open: Thur 8 p.m.–3 a.m., Fri-Sat 8 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)20 770 1470 www.kaarle.fi Teatteri Night Club Teatteri is one of the oldest restaurant-nights clubs in Helsinki. Downstairs there is a restaurant and a lounge-pub, upstairs a night club and a very popular VIP-space. Pohjoisesplanadi 2, city centre Club Open: Thur–Sat 10 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)9 6128 5022 www.teatteri.fi

TH E S E E XCLU S IVE H OT E L S P ROV I DE T H I S B O O K Best Western Airport Hotel Pilotti Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa Hotelli Cumulus Kaisaniemi Holiday Inn Airport Veromäentie 1 Kalastajatorpantie 1 Kaisaniemenkatu 7 Rälssitie 2 FIN-01510 Vantaa FIN-00330 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 329 4800 Tel. +358 (0)9 45811 Tel. +358 (0)200 48 107 Tel. +358 (0)200 48111 hotel.pilotti@choicehotels.fi helsinkikalastajatorppa@hilton.com kaisaniemi.cumulus@restel.fi airport.holidayinn@restel.fi www.hotellipilotti.fi www.1hilton.com www.cumulus.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotelli Helsinki Kluuvi Hilton Helsinki Strand Hotelli Cumulus Kallio Holiday Inn Helsinki Kluuvikatu 4 John Stenbergin ranta 4 Läntinen Brahenkatu 2 Messuaukio 1 FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00530 Helsinki FIN-00510 Helsinki FIN-00520 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4400 Tel. +358 (0)9 39351 Tel. +358 (0)200 48 109 Tel. +358 (0)200 48102 kluuvi@glohotels.fi helsinkistrand@hilton.com olympia.cumulus@restel.fi helsinki.holidayinn@restel.fi www.glohotels.fi www.1hilton.com www.cumulus.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotel Airport – lentokenttähotelli Hotel Anna Hotelli Cumulus Meilahti Holiday Inn Helsinki City Centre Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, Terminal T2 Annankatu 1 Tukholmankatu 2 Elielinaukio 5 FIN-01530 Vantaa FIN-00120 Helsinki FIN-00250 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 3444 600 Tel. +358 (0)9 616 621 Tel. +358 (0)200 48 146 Tel. +358 (0)200 48103 airport@glohotels.fi info@hotelanna.fi meilahti.cumulus@restel.fi helsinki.hihcc@restel.fi www.glohotels.fi www.hotelanna.fi www.cumulus.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotelli Helsinki Art Hotel Arthur Lentokenttähotelli Cumulus Airport Holiday Inn Helsinki West Ruoholahti Lönnrotinkatu 29 Vuorikatu 19 Robert Huberin tie 6 Sulhasenkuja 3 FIN-00180 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-01510 Vantaa FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4100 Tel. +358 (0)9 173 441 Tel. +358 (0)200 48 112 Tel. +358 (0)200 48104 art@glohotels.fi reception@hotelarthur.fi vantaa.cumulus@restel.fi helsinki.hihcw@restel.fi www.glohotels.fi www.hotelarthur.fi www.cumulus.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotelli Sello Hotel Crowne Plaza Helsinki Hotel Helka Hotel Katajanokka Leppävaarankatu 1 Mannerheimintie 50 Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23 Vyökatu 1 FIN-02600 Espoo FIN-00260 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4200 Tel. +358 (0)200 48101 Tel. +358 (0)9 613 580 Tel. +358 (0)9 686 450 sello@glohotels.fi helsinki.cph@restel.fi reservations@helka.fi sales@bwkatajanokka.fi www.glohotels.fi www.crowneplaza-helsinki.fi www.helka.fi www.bwkatajanokka.fi Hilton Airport Hotelli Cumulus Hakaniem Hotel Indigo Helsinki – Boulevard Hotel Klaus K Lentäjänkuja 1 Siltasaarenkatu 14 Bulevardi 26 Bulevardi 2 FIN-01530 Vantaa FIN-00530 Helsinki FIN-00120 Helsinki FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 73220 Tel. +358 (0)200 48 108 Tel. +358 (0)200 48 105 Tel. +358 (0)20 770 4700 helsinkivantaa.airport@hilton.com hakaniemi.cumulus@restel.fi helsinki-boulevard.indigo@restel.fi rooms@klauskhotel.com www.1hilton.com www.cumulus.fi helsinki-boulevard.hotelindigo.com www.klauskhotel.com 136 Discover Helsinki

Hotel Kämp Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo Original Sokos Hotel Vaakuna, Helsinki Pohjoisesplanadi 29 Ruoholahdenranta 3 Tasetie 8 Asema-aukio 2 FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00180 Helsinki FIN-01510 Vantaa FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 576 111 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 707 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 605 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 610 hotelkamp@hotelkamp.fi info.seaside.helsinki@radissonblu.com flamingo.vantaa@sokoshotels.fi vaakuna.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.hotelkamp.fi www.radissonblu.com/fi www.sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Hotel Seurahuone Helsinki Scandic Espoo Original Sokos Hotel Albert Original Sokos Hotel Vantaa Kaivokatu 12 Nihtisillantie 1 Albertinkatu 30 Hertaksentie 2 FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-02630 Espoo FIN-00120 Helsinki FIN-01300 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)200 48 106 Tel. +358 (0)9 43 520 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 638 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 618 helsinki.seurahuone@restel.fi espoo@scandichotels.com albert.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi hotelvantaa.vantaa@sokoshotels.fi www.hotelliseurahuone.fi www.scandichotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Hotelli AVA Scandic Grand Marina Original Sokos Hotel Helsinki Karstulantie 6 Katajanokanlaituri 7 Kluuvikatu 8 FIN-00550 Helsinki FIN-00160 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 774 751 Tel. +358 (0)9 16 661 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 601 varaukset@ava.fi grandmarina@scandichotels.com hotelhelsinki.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi Viking Line www.ava.fi www.scandichotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi M/S Gabriella Next Hotel Helsinki Rivoli Jardin Scandic Marski Original Sokos Hotel Pasila Kasarmikatu 40 Mannerheimintie 10 Maistraatinportti 3 FIN-00130 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00240 Helsinki Silja Line Tel. +358 (0)9 681 500 Tel. +358 (0)9 68 061 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 613 Silja Serenade rivoli.jardin@rivoli.fi marski@scandichotels.com pasila.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi Silja Symphony www.nexthotels.fi www.scandichotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Radisson Blu Aleksanteri Hotel Scandic Paasi Original Sokos Hotel Presidentti Superstar Albertinkatu 34 Paasivuorenkatu 5 B Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 4 Star FIN-00180 Helsinki FIN-00530 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki A LSO AVAI L AB LE M/S Mariella Viking XPRS Tallink +358 (0)20 123 4643 Tel. +358 (0)9 231 1700 info.aleksanteri.helsinki@radissonblu.com paasi@scandichotels.com www.radissonblu.com/fi www.scandichotels.fi Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 608 St. Peter Line presidentti.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi Princess Anastasia www.sokoshotels.fi Princess Maria Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel Scandic Park Helsinki Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden Eckerö Line Mikonkatu 23 Mannerheimintie 46 Tapionaukio 3 M/S Finlandia FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00260 Helsinki FIN-02100 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 703 Tel. +358 (0)9 47 371 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 616 Linda Line info.plaza.helsinki@radissonblu.com parkhelsinki@scandichotels.com tapiolagarden.espoo@sokoshotels.fi Karolin www.radissonblu.com/fi www.scandichotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Merilin Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Scandic Simonkenttä Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Runeberginkatu 2 Simonkatu 9 Yrjönkatu 26 FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 701 Tel. +358 (0)9 68 380 Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 604 info.royal.helsinki@radissonblu.com simonkentta@scandichotels.com torni.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.radissonblu.com/fi www.scandichotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Discover Helsinki 137

37 42 99 101 51 33 46 22 39 41 17 7 72 50 63 35 34 44 38 94 31 97 4 98 102 125 15 27 84 18 54 60 95 88 26 13 57 124 86 74 12 78 79 126 66 100 67 72 96 103 83 113 47 91 112 1 122 92 91 121 81 48 77 72 65 114 61 71 115 93 83 58 59 26 6 76 83 52 28 109 19 20 14 107 82 116 107 8 21 3 103 90 32 91 89 56 43 16 117 73 70 75 87 64 91 85 45 127 36 106 80 123 11 120119 62 108 40 10 29 110 68 69 49 55 23 104 111 105 2 25 53 24 © Kaupunkimittausosasto, Helsinki 2016 30 9 5 118 500 m

L I ST OF S IG H TS, S H O P PI NG A N D R E STA U RA N TS I N H E L S I N K I The number on the map corresponds to the number in the advertisement. SIGHTS & INFORMATION 44 Superpark (Vantaa) 84 Eatos (Mexican) 1 Central Railway Station 45 Svenska Teatern 85 Factory Aleksi (European) 2 Eckerö Line Terminal 46 Swimming Stadium 86 Factory Kamppi (European) 3 Esplanade Park 87 Fat Ramen (Asian noodles bar) 4 Finlandia Hall MUSEUMS 88 Freshstop Eliel (Take away) 5 Fortress of Suomenlinna / Viaborg 47 Amos Anderson Art Museum 89 Goodwin (Steaks) 6 Helsinki City Tourist Office 48 Ateneum Art Museum 90 Grotesk (Steaks) 7 Hertz Rent a Car 49 Design Museum 91 Hanko Sushi (Japanese) 8 Hop On Hop Off busses 50 EMMA - Espoo Museum of Modern Art (Espoo) 92 Hard Rock Cafe (American) 9 Kaivopuisto / Well Park 51 Finnish Aviation Museum (Vantaa) 93 Helmi (Japanese) 10 Linda Line Terminal 52 Helsinki City Museum 94 Himshikhar (Nepalese) 11 Lutheran Cathedral 53 Mannerheim Museum 95 Hotel Arthur (Finnish) 12 Main Bus Station & Kamppi Center 54 Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma 96 India House (Indian) 13 Main Post Office & Travel Clinic 55 Museum of Finnish Architecture 97 Kaisaniemi (Finnish) 14 Market Square 56 Sinebrychoff Art Museum 98 Kolme Kruunua (Finnish) 15 Musiikkitalo 57 Tennis Palace: HAM Helsinki Art Museum 99 Kolmon3n (Finnish) 16 Old Market Hall 17 Olympic Stadium SHOPPING ETC. 101 Loung3 (International) 18 Parliament House 58 Aarikka 102 Manala (International) 19 Presidential Palace 59 Anne Ruohonen Paris 103 Manhattan Steak House (Steaks) 20 Royal Line Terminal 60 Annensoppi 104 Merimakasiini (Seafood) 21 Senate Square 61 Artek 105 Mount Kailash (Nepalese) 22 Sibelius Park & Monument 62 Aukia Helsinki 106 Naughty BRGR (Burgers) 23 Silja Line Terminal 63 Burton Store Helsinki 107 Pompier / Pompier Espa (European) 24 St. Peter Line Terminal 64 Chaya Teashop 108 Pääkonttori (Finnish) 25 Tallink Terminal 65 E. Lindroos 109 Ravintola Sunn (Finnish) 26 Tavex currency exchange 66 Fiilinki 110 Restaurant Natura (International) 27 Temppeliaukio Church 67 Forum 111 Yeti Nepal (Nepalese) 28 Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral 68 Glass Gallery Mafka & Alakoski 29 Viking Line Terminal 69 Good Kicks 70 Husk 112 Alcatraz (Erotic) AMUSEMENT 71 Kankurin Tupa 113 Apollo Live Club (Live music) 30 Aalto Sauna / Pihlajasaari Island 72 KappAhl 114 Ateljée Bar (Great view) 31 Adventure Park Korkee 73 La Bunuell 115 DTM (Gay friendly nightclub) 32 Allas Sea Pool 74 Le Creuset 116 Erottaja Night (Drinks) 33 Finnish National Opera 75 Liike 117 Kaarle XII (Nightclub) 34 Finnish Science Center Heureka (Vantaa) 76 Lumi 118 Kaivohuone (Summer restaurant) 35 Flamingo Spa (Vantaa) 77 Mikonkulta 119 Lady Moon (Nightclub) 36 Hohtogolf West Coast Helsinki 78 Shop Helsinki / Mikebon 120 Milliklubi (Nightclub) 37 Huimala 79 Tingelin Toyshop 121 Namu (Club & VIP Lounge) 38 Korkeasaari Zoo 39 Linnanmäki Amusement Park RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS 123 Pataässä (Karaoke) 40 National Theatre 80 Antiokia Atabar (Turkish) 124 Shaker (Cocktails) 41 Sea Life 81 Base Camp (Nepalese) 125 Storyville (Jazz club) 42 Serena (Espoo) 82 Cantina West (Mexican) 126 Tavastia (Rock club) 43 SkyWheel Helsinki 83 Ciao! Caffe (Italian icecream bar) 127 Teatteri (Restaurant & nightclub) 100 Krog Madame (Bistro) BARS & NIGHTLIFE 122 On the Rocks (Live music)