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F I N E W I N E M A G A Z I N E C O N T E N T PAGE 22 Fine VinTAGe PAGE 30 Fine eSTATe PAGE 44 Fine VinTAGe PAGE 66 Fine PeRSOnALiTY PAGE 74 Fine VinTAGe 1952 PAGE 88 Fine eSTATe 2 FINE

F I N E W I N E M A G A Z I N E C O N T E N T PAGE 104 Fine TReASURe PAGE 110 Fine LiFeSTYLe 15 19 22 30 44 66 72 74 PAGE 124 Fine GALLeRY 81 88 102 104 110 120 124 FineediTORiAL East of Eden FinenUiKKi Fine wine's worst enemy: Food FineVinTAGe The 2011 Bordeaux Harvest Report FineeSTATe Screaming Eagle ­ The Half a Million Dollar Wine FineVinTAGe NAPA Valley Vintage 2008 FinePeRSOnALiTY John Kapon ­ The Fine Wine Auction World's New York Giant FineGiL Is the Chinese market maturing? FineVinTAGe Bordeaux Vintage 1952 FineTASTinG The Berlin Tasting Helsinki 2011 FineeSTATe Cullen Wines ­ The Song of the Land FineediTOR'S PicK Laughably Tasty Rice FineTReASURe Champagne Treasure from the Deep FineLiFeSTYLe The Flying Lady ­ Rolls Royce FineHedGeR In Praice of BYO FineGALLeRY The Spirit of Ecstacy in Flesh and Blood PAGE 72 Fine GiL C O N T E N T 3 FINE Content

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F I N E ­ T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E W r i t e r s FINEMAGAZINES 100 Pall Mall St James, London SW1Y 5HP United Kingdom WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM Tel: +44 (0) 20 76648800 fax: +44 (0) 20 73213738 Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Publishing Editor Copy Editor Creative Director Graphic Designer Senior Editors Photographer Contributors Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Juha Lihtonen juha.lihtonen@fine-magazines.com Meri Kukkavaara meri@fine-magazines.com Craig Houston info@chlanguages.net Teemu Timperi Joo Sung Kang Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki, founder and editor-in-chief of FINE Magazines, is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He has published over twenty international wine and art books, among them In Vino Veritas, a book on investing in wines, Drinking History on fine wines and their vintages between 1870­1970, a book about the Château Mouton-Rothschild ­ Wine and Art 1924/1945­2003 and most recently a book about The 1000 Finest wines of the world. Mr Nuikki is also an award-winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and he has worked as executive creative director of advertising agency group. He is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Juha Lihtonen Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen is the editor of FINE ­ The Wine Magazine and its American & Scandinavian editions and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine director of a major cruise line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Essi Avellan MW Contributor Essi Avellan is the editor of FINE Champagne magazine and first Master of Wine from Finland second ever from the Nordic countries. She was awarded the Lily Bollinger Medal as the best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award as the best overall student in the Master of Wine examination. Ms Avellan contributes to several newspapers and wine magazines internationally. She judges at several wine competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Wines of Argentina Awards. Ms Avellan has been awarded the title of Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Andreas Larsson Contributor Andreas Larsson is the editor of FINE Exclusive and a regular FINE columnist. The 2007 Best Sommelier of the World, the best sommelier in Europe in 2004 and the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2002, Mr Larsson has worked as a sommelier in the best restaurants in Stockholm and won the Wine International Sommelier Challenge in 2005. He is a member of the Grand Jury Européen and has occupied many wine juror positions around the world. Mr Larsson is also a wine writer and educator. Jeff Leve Contributor Founder, contributor and editor of "The Wine Cellar Insider". Jeff Leve is a self-taught wine enthusiast who has been tasting and collecting wines in France and America for over fifteen years. He has travelled to the Bordeaux wine region to barrel taste more than a dozen times. Each visit includes tastings at all the major properties and lasts between 2­3 weeks. He also writes about Bordeaux wine and the wine market for Tasted magazine. Furthermore, he is the moderator for Robert Parker's web site. In his home city of Los Angeles, he consults numerous restaurants, merchants and private collectors on cellar acquisitions. Aside from wine, his passions include travel, cooking and music. Chris Fleming Contributor Chris Fleming is a freelance wine journalist whose work has been published in The World of Fine Wine, The Wine Spectator, Spain Gourmetour, The Robb Report and others. Chris is also a wine marketing consultant who works for prestigious wine importers and retailers in the New York City area, and he currently teaches wine classes and leads tastings. In 2008, Chris was technical advisor on a Rioja DVD produced for the Vibrant Rioja PR campaign by the Culinary Institute of America. Ken Gargett Contributor Ken Gargett first worked as a lawyer, after obtaining degrees in his home town of Brisbane, Australia, and London. He specialised as a banking lawyer, practising in London, Washington DC and Sydney, and then finance, commerce and property back in Queensland. Even though from a family that did not drink, he became obsessed with wine while at university and moved to wine writing as a full time profession nearly twenty years ago. Since that time, he has been a regular contributor to the AGT Wine Magazine for many years. He has also contributed to a number books, including the Global Encyclopaedia of Wine and his own guide, "Don't Buy Wine Without Me". He won the Vin de Champagne Award back in 1993, and then in 2003 was inducted as a Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. In 2005, he was a recipient of the Len Evans Scholarship and has done extensive show judging in Australia. He was a co-founder of www. spitbucket.com. Outside wine, he also occasionally writes on cigars, fishing, travel and food. Gil Lempert-Schwarz Contributor Gil Lempert-Schwarz is originally from Denmark but has spent more ten years living and working in Hong Kong, and now lives in Las Vegas. Gil has more than twenty-two years of senior management experience in the beverage industry and has spent over twenty-five years refining his wine knowledge and wine tasting skills specializing in Bordeaux region and its fine wines. He is also considered an expert on US wine distribution, as well as on the authentication of fine and rare wines, and honoured by the French Government with the Ordre du Merite Agricole, the highest accolade one can receive in wine. He is a founder of The Wine Institute of Las Vegas (TWILV) ­ the premier wine education institution and consulting business Las Vegas. He also assists Acker Merrall & Condit with the auction side of their business. teemu.timperi@fine-magazines.com joo@fine-magazines.com Charles A. Banks, Rajiv Singhal, Ralf Frentzel Pekka Nuikki Marie Ahm, Essi Avellan MW, Stuart George, Andreas Larsson, Jan-Erik Paulson, Mario Sculatti, Susane Reininger, John Kapon, Gil Lempert Schwarz, Philip Hedger Markku Vartiainen markku.vartiainen@fine-magazines.com Martine Mäkijärvi martine.makijarvi@fine-magazines.com Eva Malkki Sanna Vihervaara sanna.vihervaara@fine-magazines.com Noora Mähönen noora.mahonen@fine-magazines.com Single Issue 30 including delivery Single PPDM, Password Protected Digital Magazine, 15 Edita Prima www.fine-magazines.com subs@fine-magazines.com Tel. 010 289 1000 +358-10 289 1000 Communications Director Media Account Manager Translator Marketing Assistant Financial Manager Price Cover photograph: Pekka Nuikki ­ Screaming Eagle cellars Printing House Orders & Queries Publisher Fine Publishing Helsinki Ltd Vattuniemenkuja 4 E 00210 Helsinki, Finland www.fine-magazines.com Printed in Finland by Edita Prima © Copyright: European Fine Wine Magazine Ltd Paper: Galerie Art Silk FINE ­ The American Wine Magazine ISSN 1799-2222 002 FINE Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent to us without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Magazines. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 14 FINE

F I N E ­ T H E W I N E M A G A Z I N E East of Eden A frustrAted Italian wine lover shakes his head in dismay in the ballroom of the Hong Kong Grand Hyatt, where the Acker Merrall & Condit wine auction is under way. He has travelled a long way to bid for some renowned Burgundy wines, but he realises it is all in vain, as the prices for Burgundies rise to record heights and beyond his budget at the auction. While he is disillusioned, a Chinese woman in her thirties rejoices at the other side of the table, as she wins 12 bottles of 1988 Romanée-Conti in a tough bidding war for 960,000 Hong Kong dollars, or around 90,000 euros. Acker Merrall & Condit's two-day auction in the autumn of 2011 proved a success, especially for Burgundy wines. Among the 900 lots, the most bitter tugs of war were around the top Burgundies, and their prices rose clearly above Bordeauxs and other wines. Having long enjoyed the position of the most desirable wine in China, LafiteRothschild failed to reach the expected hammer prices, while labels such as Romanée-Conti and Henri Jayer exceeded the advance estimates in many lots. "Ladies and gentlemen, it seems like a Burgundy year here," Acker Merrall & Condit's auction consultant, Gil Lempert-Schwarz, announces over the microphone. He goes on to say: "I have the pleasure of announcing that next time we will be bringing the top producers from Burgundy and their wines to Hong Kong, so mark our November auction date in your diaries." The usually polite Chinese audience are enthusiastic in their applause. Soon they will be able to supplement their Bordeaux-filled wine cellars with unique Burgundies such as Romanée-Conti, beside which Lafite-Rothschild ­ which has attained cult status in China ­ seems like a mass-produced commodity. For traditional Western wine collectors this means that soon not only the Bordeaux shelves but also the Burgundy shelves in their cellars will hang nearly empty. It is interesting to ponder with what wines these enthusiasts, who have collected and enjoyed wines for decades, will fill their shelves in the future? One also wonders whether the Bordeaux and Burgundy producers will end up completely turning their backs on their long-term European and American customers in order to seek higher profits in China. For many decades, producers have carefully stuck to the allocations set for traders, importers and restaurants, which in turn has kept loyal end customers happy as they have had access to the most desirable wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Now, with increasing demand from the Asian auctions, a greater amount of Burgundy producers are tempted to abandon these allocations in the hope of making higher profits. As the Chinese market for fine wines grows astronomically, many producers have forgotten that there are significant numbers of fine wine lovers in Europe and the United States, who are now feverishly pondering how to replace the Bordeaux and Burgundy wines they have previously enjoyed so much. A niche is therefore opening in the traditional fine wine market and waiting to be filled. This should be great news for the many producers who have desperately been trying to conquer the Chinese market without success. After all, the majority of the world's most cultivated wine lovers, and some of those with the greatest purchasing power, can still be found in Europe and America. Looking at Burgundy producers, one wonders why they should aim for the Asian market when their small-scale production is hardly enough to meet demand in Europe not to speak Americas. The current Chinese phenomenon offers a good opportunity for example for Rhône producers. Although Rhône has previously been completely overshadowed by Bordeaux and Burgundy, the region has always been known for great fullbodied wines made by its many top producers. Rhône wines have also long enjoyed praise from the world's most idolised wine critic, Robert Parker. Beside Rhône, there are many regions and producers outside of France who could use this opportunity to fill the niche and sate the thirst of traditional oenophiles: top producers in Italy from Piedmont to Tuscany; in Spain from Priorat to Rioja and Ribera del Duero; in the New World from California and Australia. While producers greedily set their sights on China, the Eldorado of the fine wine market, it is worth reminding them of the Eden located right on their doorstep ­ the market where a large group of cultivated wine enthusiasts with great purchasing power, devoted to fine wines, is waiting to be conquered. > Juha Lihtonen Editor TASTE OF FINE E D I T O R I A L 15 FINE Editorial

F I N E Fine How to read FINE's tasting notes: We open and taste more fine and rare wines than any other wine media in the world. As these wines are so special, we firmly believe that they deserve to be presented in the best possible manner, and in a way that will serve our readers well. This is why our tasting notes include lot more information than just a basic description of each wine. The topics we cover in our tasting notes other than colour, nose, taste and finish are: The given price is a six-month average paid in auctions run by major auction houses throughout Europe, the USA and Asia (FINE Wine Index) A short description of the wine Mentions if the wine is worthy of its price based on its rarity and our tasting experience How many times we have tasted the wine and the most recent tasting Recommends the length of time each wine should be decanted before serving How long the wine lasts having been poured into the glass The year we believe each wine will reach its optimum drinkability The perfect dish to accompany each wine Calculates the risk of encountering counterfeit bottles. This is an estimate based on the FINE editorial team's experience Shares specific information about the wine or vintage, which will add value to the tasting experience Suggest an option to the wine evaluated, which maybe a better investment Wraps up our opinion about the wine TastingNotes In our wine evaluations, the most significant factor is the scoring system. We score wines according the pleaspleasure they deliver today, not according to their potential. Our purpose is to make sure you enjoy the wines when they are at their optimum, in order to ensure the wines not only deliver the greatest pleasure but also their value. However, each wine with potential is given an estimate score when they reach their optimum drinking potential. You can find these points in brackets under the wine's initial score. As one of FINE's fundamental values is to support excellence, we have made the decision to not publish wines that receive 79 points or below. We use a 100-point evaluation system, where the wines have been divided into the following categories: 99­100 A wine with the wow-effect. Sheer perfection to all senses by every parameter of wine quality. A true gift from nature. 95­98 An outstanding wine that offers an unforgettable tasting experience with its perfect structure, complexity and personality. 90­94 86­89 80­85 50­79 An excellent wine, that stands out by balance, intensity, complexity and character. A good wine with balance and complexity. An average, though well-made wine. Nose and palate are somewhat one-dimensional and impersonal. A modest and straightforward wine lacking life and harmony. This wine is excluded from appearing in FINE Tasting Notes. 18 FINE

F I N E Fine wine's worst enemy: Food O nce again I am faced with a familiar, yet completely unnecessary problem. I have been invited to Stockholm by a friend to taste all the Salon vintages from 1959 onwards. It will undoubtedly be a fine and memorable oenological event. After the tasting we will enjoy an eight-course dinner for which each guest must bring one bottle of fine wine. A well-known concept which always works. Or does it? The eight-course dinner will naturally be designed and prepared by a Michelin-rated chef. In order to tailor the menu to the wines brought by the guests, the organiser of the event would like to know in advance what wines to expect. A nice thought, but one that in practice is pointless and a nightmare for the chef. The fact that there are fifteen guests at dinner means that each person will only have enough wine at the bottom of his or her large Riedel Vinum XL glass to taste and then have a tiny drop with dinner. That is actually for the best, because in my opinion no rare, mature fine wine needs or wants to be accompanied by food. I feel that the best way to ruin the experience of either a fine wine or a gourmet dish is to combine them. I have organised hundreds of tastings of top wines and been invited to many more similar events. Not once, in my experience, has a Château Latour 1961 or a Romanée-Conti 1985 been improved by being served with food, even if the food is of a similar standard. By the same token, no dish by René Redzepi of Noma or Thomas Keller of The French Laundry has tasted better when paired with such wines. Indeed, quite the opposite is true. I have met and spoken with numerous top winemakers about their wines and production philosophies, and not one of them has said that they make wine to be enjoyed with food. It is not even in their minds. The thought that some dish might improve the taste of their wines is completely foreign and incomprehensible to them. After all, they work hard and do their best in collaboration with Mother Nature to ensure that their wines are as balanced and drinkable as possible by themselves. None of them will say that their wines would benefit from or need to have food by their side. And why should they? The same applies to the proud and talented head chefs of the world's top restaurants. Most of them do not even think about wines when planning and composing a menu. They work, sometimes until the early morning hours, to create and painstakingly prepare dishes that are in themselves works of art and perfectly balanced. When asked, none of them will say that even the best wines would improve the delicate and complex flavour of the dish. On the contrary, it will often destroy it. I do not envy the task of the sommelier, because in a way it is impossible. Indeed, I think the most they can hope to achieve is the salvation a poor dinner. I do not know any head chef who is best friends with his own restaurant's sommelier. I feel that combining top wines with gourmet food is at best a compromise. If none of the creators of top wines or fine dishes believe that either product can be improved through such a combination, then why is it done daily around the world? Why ruin a dish created and meticulously prepared by the talented René Redzepi with a fine Latour 1961, which will only steal the limelight? In practice, putting the two together is the best way to ensure you don't get value for your money. Dinner at Noma or any other comparable restaurant is a fantastic experience when you focus on enjoying what the establishment does best: the delicate flavours and visual mastery of the food. Similarly, a Latour 1961 is at its best enjoyed by itself. Of course, there is one element which will significantly improve both experiences: good company. Dinner at Noma with interesting conversation partners or a Latour 1961 enjoyed with great friends are perfect, unforgettable experiences. So I know the solution to my problem. I will take a bottle of pure Finnish spring water to Stockholm. The chef is bound to approve, but what will the other guests think when I set down my water bottle alongside their fourteen sublime wines? > Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief NUIKKI 19 FINE Nu i k k i

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The Fine Harvest report ­ 2011 is a dangerous vintage 2011 B ORDEAUX Text: Jeff Leve Photography: Pekka nuikki/ Jeff Leve ll agricultural regions enjoy, or suffer from, the capricious vagaries of Mother Nature. For Bordeaux, 2011 was one of the more difficult growing seasons in recent history. Things began as they normally do. After the cold winter faded, spring arrived; but far too early. In fact, by the time April rolled around much of Bordeaux was enjoying conditions more suited to summer ­ the first half of the year was one of the warmest periods enjoyed by the region for six decades! However, accompanying the warmth was very little rain. By the time Bordeaux usually begins to warm up, things had changed once again, but this time it was worse. In July, the warm and dry conditions that had been in place since February suddenly packed up and left, leaving July as one the coldest months for more than three decades. While some rain fell at the right moment, offering nourishment for both the vines and many growers, fears of rot were not uncommon. Producers who had enjoyed stunning back to back vintages with 2009 and 2010 were faced with a number of choices. However, all these choices required extensive work and selection in the vineyards. If that wasn't enough to cope with, a massive storm slammed into the Northern Medoc on September 10, causing some 22 A growers to begin their harvest earlier than anticipated and further reducing their yields in the process. 2011 will be known as one of the earliest harvests in history, competing with 1893 for that record. Producers that were willing to ruthlessly discard unripe or damaged berries were able to make good wine. Yields are low. For some chateaux, they set records for the smallest yields in their history, while others had to go back to 1961 to find a year with such low yields. How did the Bordelais cope with the vintage? We spoke to numerous vintners, who shared their experience of the 2011 growing season with us. "2011 is a dangerous vintage. We lived through drought, rain and a lot of sun ­ in that order. The drought did not impact on our vineyard very much, because we have different terroirs. With each terroir, we performed specific work in the vineyards and we were lucky in our choices. The entire Right Bank of Bordeaux seems to be a success so far and yes, this includes not just St. Emilion but Pomerol as well. From my recent tastings, Bordeaux 2011 seems to be a mix of two Bordeaux vintages: 2007 for the smoothness and 2009 for the maturity and sucrosité," says Jean Luc Thunevin. FINE

I n 1989, Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle Andraud bought a small 0.6-hectare plot of vines, with the dream of making great St. Emilion wine. The name of the estate is personal: Valandraud is a combination of the location and something more meaningful. The Val comes from Vallon de Fongaban, the second part, Andraud, is Murielle's maiden name. Things have changed at the estate since its birth. They Andraud's have acquired more land and, perhaps more importantly, the Valandraud is now made entirely by Murielle. Indeed, 2007 was the first vintage that Murielle was completely in charge of, as she called every shot in terms of winemaking. This, in my humble opinion, was a good move. Valandraud 2009 and Valandraud Murielle Andraud 2010 are two of the finest efforts from this unique Bordeaux wine producer. The current 2011 vintage marks the 20th vintage for Valandraud, as their first effort was the Valandraud 1991. Jean-Luc Thunevin: "We waited patiently for our grapes to reach the right concentration before harvesting. We started on September 7 and managed to finish by October 13, which is about two weeks earlier than usual. Bordeaux 2011 is about sorting, sorting and more sorting. We sorted in the vineyards and in the cellars. Since the 2007 vintage, we have been using the Tribaie sorting machine, which helps us to remove more of the bad grapes based on the levels of sugar concentration in the berries. The machine performs `densimetric' sorting, which is based on the desired levels of ripeness and sugar levels." BORDEAUX 2011 23 FINE Vintage

The 2011 THE dAY STARTS BEFoRE THE SuN RISES B ORDEAUX THE EARLIEST HARvEST oN REcoRd SINcE 1893 Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion started harvesting their young vine Merlot on August 29, which is early for the First Growth estate. To give you an idea of how early, in 2010 HautBrion started to pick their young Merlot vines on September 8, and in that vintage harvesting continued until October 9. Between the two Pessac Leognan properties, where there are both red and white grapes to pick, the schedule is very busy. The harvesters begin their day working on the grapes for their white wine, often starting their day before the sun rises. Jean-Philippe Delmas explains why they harvest early in the morning: "The purpose of picking the white grapes early in the morning is to ensure the fruit remains cool. This helps the berries to retain their unique, fresh aromas. This year, we picked our white grapes between 7am and noon. We do this because by that time of day the skins are dry and none of the dew from the night remains." Château Lafite-Rothschild began to harvest Cabernet Sauvignon in their northernmost parcels, located not far from Château Cos d'Estournel, on September 2, 2011. This is one of the earliest harvests on record for the property. You will, without doubt, be reading quotes from many Bordeaux wine producers that Bordeaux 2011 will, for many chateaux, be their earliest harvest on record since 1893. However, growers situated in some parts of Bordeaux have moved their timetables forward and are harvesting even earlier than previously expected. Due to the freak barrage of hail and rain in the Northern Médoc, centred near the Pauillac-St.Estèphe border, many chateaux in the vicinity have decided to start picking earlier than they had originally planned, in order to avoid possible problems with the onset of rot. The most notable property is the famed First Growth, Château Lafite-Rothschild. It is possible that the storm, which dropped more than half an inch of rain in a twenty-minute period, caused some flooding to the cellars of Lafite-Rothschild. "With our 2011 harvest, we harvested earlier because the growing of the vines was earlier than usual, due to the very hot spring. But the summer maturation weather conditions were fresh and cool, so the wine is of a cooler style than a late vintage. The nice weather conditions at the end of August and September were very good for phenolic ripeness," Fabien Teitgen from Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte explains. THE 2011 vINTAgE IS NoT SIMPLE To HANdLE Smith-Haut-Lafitte is not only making great white and red Bordeaux wine in Péssac Léognan, they are at the forefront of technology as well. They were one of the first Bordeaux wine producers to begin us- 24 FINE

Fine Harvest report ­ 2011 is a dangerous vintage ing Optical Sorting, which came in handy when dealing with the difficult 2011 Bordeaux harvest. Fabien Teitgen, the long-time managing director, joined us for a long, detailed conversation concerning what took place at Smith-Haut-Lafitte during the 2011 Bordeaux vintage. "To my mind, 2011 is balanced by low pH and medium alcohol. So, for those who picked at the right time, their wines will be balanced with a good concentration and good freshness. This vintage is not so simple to handle." Château Cos d'Estournel, St.Estèphe, started their 2011 Bordeaux harvest on September 5. Jean-Guillaume Prats believes that 2011 set a modern day record for early harvesting at Château Cos d'Estournel: "This was the estate's second earliest harvest on record. To find an earlier date, we needed to go back to 1893!" While the specific date to start picking was not set in stone, the original plan was not to begin their Bordeaux harvest as early as they did. However, due to a ferocious storm that swept through the area, any hope of waiting went out the window. "We initially planned to start around September 9 with the young vines. After the storm, we gave ourselves time over the weekend to assess the situation and make the appropriate decision about whether to wait and see how the weather would develop in the days to come. We were "lucky" this vintage was extremely early. The damage in terms of the phenolic ripeness of the grapes should be very minor. If this was a later year, such as 2008, 2009 or 2010, the effects would be much worse," said Prats. Since Patrick Maroteaux purchased Château Branaire Ducru in 1988, he has been on a mission to produce the best wine possible from this Fourth Growth estate. While 2000, 2003, 2005 and 2009 are all potential candidates for Branaire-Ducru's best wine yet, I am willing to place a bet that the 2010 turns out to be his strongest wine to date. But, what about 2011 Branaire, and where does the most recent vintage stand? Patrick Maroteaux explains: "We will produce a rather powerful and colourful vintage due to the low ratio between the juice and the skin. So far, the tannins seem rather approachable and elegant. The complexity of the structure will probably not be at the same level as the 2009 and 2010 vintages. We can position the 2011 vintage in the category of very serious wines. We now know for sure that this vintage will show a very interesting balance." 2011 IS A gREAT YEAR FoR cABERNET SAuvIgNoN Château Kirwan, located in the Margaux appellation, has been on a slow and steady course of improvement since the early 1990s; in 1991, the estate brought in Michel Rolland as their consultant. Kirwan is managed by Sophie Schyler, who is ably assisted by their winemaker Philippe Delfaut. This is a Bordeaux property that strives to produce the best wine possible, while over the past few years they have restored the château and built a new barrel cellar. With the 2011 vintage currently ageing in barrel, Philippe Delfaut candidly discusses the "To my mind, 2011 is balanced by low pH and medium alcohol. So, for those who picked at the right time, their wines will be balanced with a good concentration and good freshness. This vintage is not so simple to handle." Jean-Guillaume Prats BORDEAUX 2011 25 FINE Vintage

The 2011 B ORDEAUX "The first part of the growing season, from bud burst to flowering, was very early in 2011. What made a big difference was the speed of the growth and the ripening process between the flowering season and the picking." THE 2011 WILL cERTAINLY BE MoRE NERvouS THAN THE 2009 oR THE 2010 BoRdEAux vINTAgES Château Palmer is on a roll. In fact, they've been on a roll since Thomas Duroux joined the team just in time for the 2004 Bordeaux vintage. To find out how Château Palmer handled the difficult 2011 Bordeaux vintage, we Jean-Michel Laportre spoke with Thomas Duroux. Duroux, as usual, offered great comments on what is taking place at their Margaux property. "The first part of the growing season, from bud burst to flowering, was very early in 2011. What made a big difference was the speed of the growth and the ripening process between the flowering season and the picking. In 2003, for example, the time for this was shorter than normal. The result, in certain circumstances, cooked the wine's aromas and produced dry tannins. At this stage, we have 'normal' alcohol levels: 13 to 13.5 for the Merlot and we expect 12.5 for the Cabernets. The pH levels are a little lower than last year and the malic acid levels are also low. This means that the final acidity will not be much lower after malolactic fermentation. The 2011 will certainly be more nervous than the 2009 or the 2010 Bordeaux vintages." 2011 Bordeaux vintage and harvest. "The first part of the season was very promising, with hot and dry weather. Then the excessive heat and drought caused withering and scorching of the grapes, leading to a reduced yield. Certain varieties, such as the Petit Verdot, suffered acutely from the drought, and the Cabernet Sauvignon withered to a greater extent than the others. The 2011 vintage is extraordinary, as we are witnessing a heretofore unimaginable development: the alcohol content in the Cabernet Sauvignon is vastly higher than that of the Merlot! There can be no doubt: 2011 is a great year for Cabernet Sauvignon on the Left Bank. Although the Merlot and the Petit Verdot offer brilliant fruit, one must admit that the taste is somewhat lacking in depth. However, the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon reveal an incredible richness that has never before been achieved at Kirwan. The 2011 Bordeaux vintage is one of contrasts, and it is probably one of a kind!" 26 FINE

Fine Harvest report ­ 2011 is a dangerous vintage THE 2011 IS A WINEMAkER'S vINTAgE A coMPLIcATEd SuMMER IN PoMERoL With its clay soils and preference for Merlot grapes, Pomerol is usually the first of the major Bordeaux appellations to commence harvesting. However, this was not the case with every châteaux in this difficult Bordeaux vintage. Each chateau picks their fruit at the time they think will allow them to produce the style of wine that offers the best representation of their terroir. Jean-Michel Laportre of Château La Conseillante discussed their 2011 Bordeaux harvest and growing season while explaining what they are seeking to achieve with this tricky vintage. "Maturity should be perfect. The main interest is that the weather is normally better at the beginning of September than at the end of the month or in October. So, it is less stressful and there is less hurry to harvest, but more chances to improve the maturity. The spring was very warm and dry, while the summer was quite complicated. But, the vines got through it quite well. They never really suffered from the drought, as the growing season began very early and they had the time to get used to it. It would have been more dangerous if the spring had been very rainy, and the summer very dry and hot. We suffered more in 2003 because of the hot weather, and the heat took its toll more than drought. We will probably have a better balance than 2009 and 2010, allowing for a more classic Bordeaux style. The alcohol should be lower and the acidity a bit higher. This will certainly help the freshness and taste to explode!" Château Troplong Mondot produced one of the best St. Emilion wines in 2010. However, that year was a much easier vintage for their limestone and clay terroir. Troplong Mondot is a true family-managed property: Christine Valette and Xavier Pariente have been on top of things for close to 15 years. To find out what they were doing with the 2011 vintage, we spoke with Xavier Pariente. "The 2011 Bordeaux vintage will be a typical Bordeaux vintage. It is classical, yet distinguished, fruity and well balanced. The characteristics of the 2011 vintage are those of a classic Bordeaux vintage. The wines display medium alcohol content with a good acidity, allowing for a good ageing of this vintage." Christine Valette Hubert de Boüard has been at Château Angelus in St. Emilion for 30 years. You might think by this time he would have seen it all, but that is not the case. According to de Boüard, the 2011 Bordeaux growing season is unprecedented thanks to its unusual weather patterns. With two estates in St. Emilion named Angelus and Bellevue, as well as a busy consulting practice, Hubert has had his hands full of late. However, he still finds time to sum up this wonderful and unusual vintage: "In 2011, we experienced the summer before the spring. The weather conditions this year were quite unprecedented: spring was particularly sunny and hot, encouraging the vines to develop very early. The weather durHubert de Boüard ing summer, however, was relatively uncertain, and this meant we had to work on the vines constantly. The 2011 is a winemaker's vintage. More than ever, this year will reflect each winegrower's keen perception and responsiveness." > BORDEAUX 2011 27 FINE Vintage

"Le Dom aine Les Cr ayères" one of the most "Le Dom aine Les Cr ayères" one of the most Today, more than ever before, Le Domaine Les Crayères reaffirms the desire Today, more than ever before, Le Domaine Les Crayères reaffirms the desire and determination to be a living celebration of Champagne ­ the region, the and determination to be a living celebration of Champagne ­ the region, the beverage, and the lifestyle it embodies ­ both for Reims and for the world. beverage, and the lifestyle it embodies ­ both for Reims and for the world. What we have to offer is unique: our five-star hotel « Le Château », our What we have to offer is unique: our five-star hotel « Le Château », our gourmet restaurant « Le Parc », our new brasserie « Le Jardin », our superb gourmet restaurant « Le Parc », our new brasserie « Le Jardin », our superb setting so close to the city centre, in the very midst of Champagne and its setting so close to the city centre, in the very midst of Champagne and its consummate, celebrated beverage... consummate, celebrated beverage... Member of Relais & Châteaux Member of Relais & Châteaux Member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde Member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde Email: contact@lescrayeres.com Email: contact@lescrayeres.com www.lescrayeres.com www.lescrayeres.com

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THE HALF A MILLION DOLLAR WINE Text: Juha Lihtonen Photography: Pekka Nuikki fter terrible winter floods, 1986 was another early vintage in Napa Valley. The flowering season, early due to several consecutive heat waves, was already advanced when estate agent Jean Phillips arrived at a vineyard by the Silverado Trail and Oakville Crossroad. With her experience of numerous properties and vineyards, Phillips senses something extraordinary and magical there, and realises she wants this ranch for herself. Without knowing much about the quality of the wines from the plot, she makes an offer for it. The price is accepted and, having paid, Phillips becomes the owner of the 57-acre vineyard. The majority of the varieties cultivated on the plot are white grapes, and its 80 vines of Cabernet Sauvignon cover much less than one acre of land. Having received encouraging feedback on the quality of the Cabernet grapes grown here from the Robert Mondavi Winery, Phillips decides to start her own winemaking operation. Extensive planting lies ahead. Phillips hires respected wine consultant Richard Peterson, who introduces her to his winemaker daughter, Heidi Peterson Barrett. The two women form a friendship that will produce a wine whose début vintage of 1992, launched in 1996, completely charms even the most esteemed wine critic, Robert Parker. He gives it 99 points. With only a few hundred cases produced, this becomes the most sought-after wine by collectors overnight. Only four years after its launch, six magnum bottles of 1992 Screaming Eagle go at the Napa Valley Wine Auction for the highest price ever paid for a wine: half a million dollars. A legend is born. SCREAMING EAGLE A 31 FINE Estate

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SCREA MING Once in a lifetime Just as Jean Phillips may never have dreamed of creating a cult wine such as Screaming Eagle, the Santa Barbara-based investor Charles Banks, in charge of making investments for sporting celebrities, probably never imagined he would one day manage the vineyard responsible for growing it. Having just invested in the Jonata winery in Santa Ynez Valley with his sports club-owning business partner E. Stanley Kroenke, Banks was introduced to Jean Phillips by their viticulturist Tom Prentice, who knew Phillips and felt she might be looking for a business partner. The reason behind this was the status of Screaming Eagle. Although it was able to grow some of the world's most desirable wines, the winery lacked the proper facilities needed to make or store them. A leaf roll blight forced Phillips to replant a lot of her stock, and she was also facing large-scale investments that she might not be able to afford independently. In addition, after twenty years of hard work, the sixtyyear-old Phillips hoped to slow down a little and enjoy other aspects of life besides wine-growing. "I lay awake at night worrying about the mistakes we could make. I did not want to be the guy who screwed up Screaming Eagle." EAGLE For Banks and Kroenke this was an exciting situation ­ a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to gain access to one of the most desirable vineyards in the world, thus guaranteeing them a place among the vanguard of wine producers. Banks and Kroenke met Phillips and made an offer she couldn't refuse and the latter publicly announced the sale in 2006 ­ the purchase price was never published but was speculated to lie between 30 and 40 million dollars. As Phillips gave up her treasure, Heidi Peterson Barrett also ended her involvement in the success story that had turned her into Napa Valley's hottest winemaker. It was the start of a new era. 1992 The first commercial vintage of Screaming Eagle 1996 Robert Parker gives 99 points to Screaming Eagle ­ the wine that no one had heard of. Time line 1986 Jean Phillips purchases the 57-acre property, which is situated on the Silverado Trail in Oakville. She named the property after a childhood namesake. 2006 Jean Philips sells the estate to real estate developer and sports mogul E. Stanley Kroenke and well-known American athletes' capital manager Charles Banks. 2009 E. Stanley Kroenke becomes sole owner of the estate. SCREAMING EAGLE 33 FINE Estate

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In the late morning, the vineyard is covered by the cooling fog and afternoons are cooled by the winds from San Pablo Bay, which keeps the grapes fresh. SCREAMING EAGLE 35 FINE Estate

THE HALF A MILLION RebiRth Banks and Kroenke faced major capital expenditures. Arriving on the property for the first time, they saw mainly opportunities, and a formidable set of challenges as well. While some of the blocks in the vineyard were performing beautifully, there were others that they believed could be managed in a much better manner; indeed, some would even need replanting due to the presence of leaf blight. As Banks said: "The uniformity was amazing, as were the wines, so I knew we had a special piece of land. It was cooler, being on the valley floor and behind a knoll with many oaks, so when the breeze came up from the bay and through the knoll it brought the cool, shaded air out onto the vineyard. This allows for the more elegant, feminine qualities of the wine. The winery was more surprising. There was no cooling, in fact the tanks weren't even hooked up for cooling. Everything was done by hand, even the cooling fermentations were carried out using a garden hose. Furthermore, the cave was dug in a less than ideal place, as the afternoon sun was aimed right at the doors. In spite of all this, the wines were brilliant and spoke of a singular place. A common thread and a purity ran through all the wines, so even though intellectually I saw room for improvement, I lay awake at night worrying about the mistakes we could make. I did not want to be the guy who screwed up Screaming Eagle." Banks recruited a top team of experts led by his trusted winemaker Andy Erickson, with support from the world's most renowned oenology consultant, Michel Rolland. Before Screaming Eagle, Erickson had built a reputation at Harlan Estate, Staglin, Spottswoode, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and Newton, as well as through some of his own projects and consulting work at Banks and Kroenke's Jonata estate, among others. Erickson's wife, the esteemed viticulturist Annie Favia, was asked to be in charge of the Screaming Eagle vineyards. She was supported by famed Napa viticulturist David Abreu, who played a central role in redesigning the vineyards. In just a short time, the estate was again in the hands of a top team. With the high-quality grapes as the starting point, the estate had to be equipped to carry that quality all the way into the bottle. Banks hired winery architect Howard J. Backen, who is highly regarded in Napa Valley. His design portfolio included the Harlan, Bond and The Napa Valley Reserve estates. During the next five years, the Screaming Eagle estate would operate amid bulldozers as it underwent a comprehensive overhaul. DOLLAR WINE tRansfORmatiOn Of the VineyaRds The reforms at Screaming Eagle were based on investigations of where each cultivated variety thrives and produces the best quality. The vineyard blocks are west and north-facing on a gentle slope in the shape of an amphitheatre. The iron-rich, rocky vineyard has a spectrum of soil types. The eastern part of the estate is dominated by shallow, alluvial rocky soil, while the middle part has more small stones and the western end of the vineyard is rich in clay, cobbles and sand. In the late morning, the vineyard is covered by the cooling fog and afternoons are cooled by the winds from San Pablo Bay, which keeps the grapes fresh. Thus, the property yields grapes with naturally high acidity, despite the Napa Valley's warm climate. This is one of the key factors behind the longevity of Screaming Eagle's wines. A number of beneficial changes have been carried out in terms of planting technology, taking into account the terroir track record. Erickson supplemented the Cabernet Sauvignon graftings with some more Cabernet Franc, as he believed that the variety plays a key role in Screaming Eagle's wines. When Erickson arrived, there was only a miniscule plot of Cabernet Franc, located at the east end of the property, but the wines were exquisite, consistently making the blend year after year. Among the two blending varieties utilised at Screaming Eagle, Cabernet Franc tends to be favoured in a hotter vintage, while Merlot takes centre stage in a cooler one, such as 2010. While extensive new graftings were made in 2006, around 13 acres of the estate's oldest vines, planted in 1987­1990, were retained. This is partly to strengthen the estate's own clone stock. The technique used in the new vineyard blocks is field selection, which refers to budwood being sectioned off from strong old vines throughout the vineyard. This keeps the vine material as unique as possible. The six rootstocks that were used in the graftings play a key role in ensuring the high quality of the new grapes. These allow for more complex characteristics of the terroir from the different plots to shine through, facilitated by twenty years of experience, as well as improving grape quality in blocks that were historically rather vigorous. To improve grape quality, the vine density was increased from 800 to 2400 vines per acre. With the larger number of vines and denser vine rows, there is greater competition for water, which in turn produces more concentrated grapes and helps to balance the vine's vigour. At the same time, the grapes are more shaded from the sun. The angle of the vine rows was designed to provide shading for the fruit zone during the hottest parts of the day, and therefore during the hottest parts of summer. This keeps the grapes fresher. 36 FINE

Winemaker at a glance name: Nick Gislason Born: 1983, San Juan Island experience: Harlan Estate (Napa Valley), O'Shaughnessy Winery (Napa Valley) and Craggy Range (New Zealand) Personal Screaming Eagle favourites: 1995 & 2007 Best wine ever tasted: Pétrus 1989 if not working for Screaming eagle, then where: Pétrus Hobby: Building fireworks the style of Screaming eagle wines, according to gislason: Screaming Eagle is stylistically between Napa and Bordeaux, out all on its own. It's the freshness and savory of Bordeaux, with a richness from Napa, and a perfume that is uniquely its own. motto: There is no satisfactory substitute for excellence. SCREAMING EAGLE 37 FINE Estate

W inemakers 1992­2006 Helen Peterson Barrett 2006­2010 Andy Erickson 2010­ Nick Gislason OWn e r E. Stanley Kroenke (b.1947), the owner of Screaming Eagle, is better known for his Kroenke Sports Enterprise which owns various sports clubs, such as NHL ice hockey team Colorado Avalanche, NFL football team St. Louis Rams and NBA basketball team Denver Nuggets. Kroenke is also the majority shareholder in English football club Arsenal. 38 FINE

SCREA MING PeRfect cellaRs The production facilities were planned according to the redevelopment of the vineyards. The gravity-based winery is designed principally with the aim of maintaining the high quality of the incoming grapes throughout the production process. When we first visited the new facilities and met Andy Erickson in 2010, he was excited as every parcel could be vinified separately using wood, concrete or stainless steel vats, so that the unique characters from every corner of the vineyard could be evaluated and graded accordingly. He emphasised how the new winery allowed him and his team to continue winemaking in the long-established style of this brand, but with greater consistency. He also referred to the methods that were used by Phillips and Peterson Barrett when they operated the winery from the little stone building where, for instance, temperature control of the fermentations was very difficult to handle, and was achieved using a lot of makeshift equipment. Erickson embraced modern equipment, which helped him to take the guesswork out of controlling fermentation temperatures, and greater focus could then be placed on the vineyard and how the wines were developing during fermentation. He also said that in terms of fruit characteristics, it was clear early on, in 2006 during his first harvest at Screaming Eagle, that the site naturally gives very vibrant, perfumed, lucid wines with a lot of freshness and acidity. With new winemaking techniques preserving those characteristics have evolved a great deal. Despite the opportunities that new winery allows, the actual winemaking process itself is kept very simple. After a selective sorting process, gentle winemaking takes place using a short cold soak, followed by fermentation at moderate temperatures. After primary fermentation, the wines are run-off to barrels to continue the secondary fermentation in the cellar. Then, every vineyard block is aged separately for the first 12 months, before a blending session that will select only the best barrels for use in the final Screaming Eagle blend. The wine is racked very minimally during ageing, and is bottled without fining or filtering. The bottles are stored in tempered cellars, which are quarried into the bedrock, before their annual release, with controlled conditions that are ideal for long-term cellaring. The multi-million-dollar redevelopment project was finally completed for the most part in autumn 2010. Some replanting activities remain, and naturally the endeavour to produce perfect wines is never-ending. After the five years' of metamorphosis, the estate is now looking better than ever. The team who was in charge of the redevelopment project has since parted ways, with Banks moving on to his new international winery projects, while Andy Erickson and his wife Annie continue to run their own winemaking projects in Napa. Nowadays, the estate is overseen by Armand de Maigret, the longtime winery manager of Jonata Winery, who runs Screaming Eagle alongside a very committed team. One of the key persons in his team is a young winemaker, Nick Gislason, who was unearthed by Andy Erickson. Gislason, 28, had impressive experience for his age when Erickson first met him, and after meeting for the first time, they found that their chemistry and work ethic matched perfectly. "When I came here for an interview, I had great respect for Screaming Eagle, because of its renowned reputation and world-class winegrowing team. However, my excitement began to grow as I walked around the vineyards, exploring all of the various soils and microclimates of the 48-acre ranch. There were an amazing variety of terroirs here, and they were all designed to be farmed individually. This was going to be a place where getting intimately close with the land was paramount, and that was always what I saw myself doing. And, it was a fortuitous time for me to step into the picture, as the newly planted vines were still very young and I would have a chance to grow alongside them, while at the same time learning from the older, more established blocks. I was always look- EAGLE ing for a long-term opportunity to grow and develop my career, and when I realised that Andy and Screaming Eagle were searching for exactly that type of commitment, it was a natural fit. Then, when we went into the cave to taste some wines, the deal was sealed. We tasted through some of the Merlot blocks, then some Cabernet, and they all had this vibrancy that I can only describe as bordering on alive. They were just so beautiful, perfumy, and fresh, much less ripe than many Napa wines and exactly the style that I have always gravitated towards," Gislason says of his early days Screaming Eagle,. Under Erickson's guidance, Nick quickly grew into the big shoes he was destined to fill and was ready to take Erickson's position within a year. In 2011, Gislason took full charge of all the winemaking duties. Will the young winemaker follow in his mentor's footsteps, or will he walk a path of his own? "First and foremost, I will be perpetuating the fresh, delicate style of wine that has been the Screaming Eagle hallmark since 1992. Across two winemakers before me (Heidi and Andy), that style has stayed remarkably consistent, which is part of the uniqueness of this ranch. The character of the vineyard really asserts itself. What will be new is the discovery of the young vine plots, and the ways that we can farm them individually to get the best site expression possible. It is a winemaker's dream to be able to truly understand and manage a vineyard acre by acre and spend an enormous amount of time out there with the vines," Nick muses. It remains to be seen how this extremely expensive quality enhancement project will be reflected in the prices of Screaming Eagle wines, whose secondary market prices are among the highest in the world. Despite future prices, can the quality of this cult wine considered being now on a par of perfection? "Everybody on the Screaming Eagle team works with a sense that nothing short of perfection will do, without question. Since people expect the best, that's exactly what they'll get," Nick Gislason confirms. And what of future improvements ­ is there still room for that in quality? This is more than likely, as the the ageing vines will yield an increasingly high quality of grape material and will therefore help Screaming Eagle team to keep the flight in perfection lifted. > SCREAMING EAGLE 39 FINE Estate

92p (95­100p) Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: 2008 Screaming Eagle NA A1 Medium intense, ruby Open, aromatic, floral, blackcurrants, violets, smoky black fruits, spicy toastiness A pure and delicate wine If you are on the mailing list Twice, last in 11/2011 5 hours 3 hours 2020­2025 Roasted elk with creamy chantarelle sauce 91p (95­100p) 2007 Screaming Eagle 2200 A1 Moderately deep, ruby Reserved, sophisticated, ripe dark fruits, floral, hints of mint tannins, licorice Dense and rich Go on, the prices are only climbing 4 times, last in 1/2011 6 hours 3 hours 2030­2035 Grilled lamb fillet with thyme sauce Moderately low The vintage when Screaming Eagle was made from more selective sorting than ever France Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Medium-bodied, refined, vivid, ripe Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Long, persistent and perfumey Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, intense fruit, velvety Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Refined, mineral and seductively spicy Fake factor: Moderately low Inside The first Screaming Eagle vintage to information: be made in the new gravity-based state-of-art winery, where concrete, stainless steel and wooden casks are skillfully used in making the harmonious wines. Or try this: Château Margaux 2000, Bordeaux, Final verdict: Thanks to the great vintage and focused sorting, this wine has all hat it takes to become the greatest Screaming Eagle of all times Or try this: 2003 Pétrus, Bordeaux, France Final verdict: A wine with great promise and potential SCREAMING EAGLE 91p (95­100p) 2006 Screaming Eagle 1300 A1 Moderately deep, ruby Jammed, ripe wild strawberries dark chocolate mouthdrying tannins, ripe blackcurrants, vivid 92p (95­100p) 2005 Screaming Eagle 1700 A1 Dark, purple to ruby Pure, intense jammed blackberries and blackcurrants, sweet spiceness and toasty with floral tones tannic Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, supple and gently Aftertaste: Long, powerful, spicy In a nutshell: Velvety wine Buy or not: One of the most affordable Screaming Eagles on market 8 hours 4 hours 2025­2030 Grilled duck breast with truffleflavoured potato pure Palate: Intense and rich, vivid acidity, spicy Aftertaste: Moderately long, spicy and gently In a nutshell: Rich and pure Buy or not: You find better value for money than this, sorry 8 hours 4 hours 2025­2030 Aged Gruyère cheese Moderately low The last vintage produced from the original team ­ Jean Phillips and Heidi Peterson-Barrett with spa treatments and dinners Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: twice, last in 1/2011 Fake factor: Moderately low Inside The first vintage under the new information: ownership and new winemaker Andy Erickson. The blend has 17% Merlot to enrich the style. Pauillac, France Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: twice, last in 3/2011 Or try this: A weekend at Meadowood Resort Final verdict: A well-structured wine which needs at least ten years cellaring before it delivers its value Or try this: Château Pichon-Lalande 1996, Final verdict: Open, rich and spicy style 40 FINE

97p (95­100p) 1997 Screaming Eagle 2714 A1 Bright, deep, ruby Rich, elegant, complex, seductive, spicy, floral, ripe black fruits balanced, plush, ripe black fruits, supple, intense coffee, chocolate and mint Finesse and power If money is not an issue 12 times, last in 3/2012 2 hours 3 hours Now to 2025 Grilled lamb skewers with peppers and onion 97p Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: 1994 Screaming Eagle 2000 A1 Intense, ruby Complex, elegant, cassis, mocha, mint tannins, sophisticated Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, distinguished, well- Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, supple, silky Aftertaste: Refined, long and elegant In a nutshell: A wine like polished jewel Buy or not: If you compare the points price Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: 10 times, last in 2010 2 hours 3 hours Now­2025 Duck à l'Orange Moderately high A tiny production of 175 cases 1994 Harlan Estate A wine to make your friends happy! Aftertaste: Rich, long, vivid, delicious, aromatic, In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: correlation with 1992 this wine is a bargain Fake factor: Moderately high Inside The total production was 500 cases information: Or try this: A Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic 1997 Final verdict: A wine that will be able to blow our mind in ten years time TASTING NOTES 98p Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: 1992 Screaming Eagle 4900 A1 Intense, ruby Open, sweet, opulent, pronounced, spicy, blackcurrants complex, firm, exciting, rich, meaty Palate: Intense, vigour, well-balanced, Aftertaste: Elegant, ripe, superb In a nutshell: Screamingly good! Buy or not: Every wine lover should have a Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: 4 times, last in 2010 2 hours 3 hours Now­2025 priviledge to taste this benchmark wine of modern Napa at least once Roasted venison with morrel sauce Moderately high The first commercial of Screaming Eagle. Total production was only 175 cases. Or try this: 1992 Maya by Dalla Valle Final verdict: The "turning point wine" to the modern era of Napa Valley wine production SCREAMING EAGLE 41 FINE Estate

extraordinary chefs are now among Blackberry Farm's most anticipated guests. some of the world's most Situated in the Tennessee foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, Blackberry Farm's Relais & Châteaux property -- recently named #1 Resort in the Continental U.S. and Canada by Travel + Leisure -- is celebrating its 35th anniversary by bringing back some of their favorite guest chefs, vintners and artists for this year's schedule of unforgettable events. From its 180,000-bottle Grand Award-winning wine selection and renowned cuisine to countless opportunities for wellness and adventure across 9,200 protected acres, Blackberry Farm is home to enriching, one-of-a-kind experiences all year long. To reserve your place at one of our special events, contact our Reservations Team, or visit us online for a complete calendar of upcoming events. Walland, Tennessee 00.1.865.984.8166 blackberryfarm.com

joins us for Old World, New World also featuring Dirk Niepoort of Nieport Wines Michael Mina AprIL 30- m Ay 3, 2012 joins us for Excellence along with acclaimed wine importer Eric Soloman m Ay 20-23, 2012 Daniel Humm joins us forEmpire Italy also featuring Piero Incisa Della Rochetta of Sassacaia Hugh Acheson Ju ne 24-27, 2012 joins us for Carte Blanch along with Mannie Berk of The Rare Wine Co. S eptember 16-19 David Kinch

Napa Valley Vintage 2008 From Extreme to Supreme Text: Juha Lihtonen Photos: Pekka Nuikki 44 FINE

A group of ten or so wine experts excitedly awaits the revelation of fifty foil-wrapped wine bottles. Consisting of sommeliers, winemakers, wine auctioneers and wine writers, the group has spent the last four hours at the table, blind-tasting the top Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons from 2008. Generally speaking, opinions are very positive. In contrast with the Napa Valley Vintage 2007 tasting last year, the wines have much more distinct styles; this is due to the exceptional weather conditions of 2008, which forced producers to use all the tricks in the book to guarantee grape quality. N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 45 FINE Vintage

he harvest in 2008 was very different from the norm in Napa Valley: Mother Nature turned the year into a real thriller, which gripped producers from the beginning all the way until harvest time. The year began in stormy conditions: the valley was buffeted by downpours and storm winds. These then gave way to an agonisingly long dry period. The spring's rainfall only reached sixty per cent of the average, and went down in history as one of the driest springs in Napa Valley. Due to the mild and dry weather, the vines' growing season started earlier than ever. The early budding turned out to be crucial, however, as the month-long dry period in the spring was followed by destructive sub-zero night-time temperatures. This was not just on a few isolated nights, but went on for a whole month. The long night-time frosts had a devastating effect on the sprouting vines, cutting harvests by up to one third. During the long frost period, producers pulled out all their tricks to protect the vines. Some vineyards in the valley have large fans, which were used intensively throughout the spring. Areas that did not have fans used sprinklers to water the vines so that the water would freeze on the buds and shield them from the icy cold. The flowering season which suffered from a long dry spring season, led to below-average fruit formation. The summer started off cool and remained so until late August. As a result, the grapes developed slowly and became intense and concentrated. In the late summer, ripening was accelerated by a one-week heat wave, which was followed by dry weather during the harvest. Although the harvest was smaller than usual, the grape quality was excellent. T 46 FINE

VINTAGE 2008 CONCLUSION The year 2008 reminded Napa Valley producers of the climate conditions their European colleagues often battle. The wild weather put the vineyards to the test and required more measures than usual to ensure an optimal harvest. Due to the exceptional weather conditions, the terroir played a significant role in shaping the character of the resulting wines. Some of the influencing factors were soil quality, vineyard-specific weather patterns, the age of vines and the farming methods used. After the extensive 2008 Napa Cabernet tasting, there were no great qualitative differences, however, as the wines at the tasting all represented some of the best that these top producers have to offer. Although the scores ranged between 86 and 96 points, the differences will even out through longer ageing, as the wines will reach their optimum drinkability within 10­15 years. It was wonderful to note that a great deal of the wines were characterised by a seductively succulent fruitiness, which made many of them enjoyable already ­ more than half of the wines have scored 90 or more points, despite their young age. Whereas the great 2007 vintage contains very refined and long-lived wines, the 2008 wines charmed tasters with their open and generous style, even though their best days are still far in the future. N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 47 FINE Vintage

"Happily, Continuum's estate vineyards on Pritchard Hill were protected from most vagaries of the weather as a result of our higher elevations and westerly aspect. A heat spike during flowering in May did lower our crop levels but weather patterns were fairly mild from that point until late August, when a week-long temperature jump pushed picking forward. However, no sooner did the heat arrive than it left again and the remainder of the harvest proceeded in a cooler than normal climate. All the fruit was harvested over a period of five weeks, from September 18 until October 25. Overall, the fruit quality from the estate was very good to excellent in 2008." ­Tim Mondavi, owner and winemaker, Continuum Estate 2008 from the producers' point of view "This spring was one of the driest on record, and so vines pushed buds early. Then, a prolonged series of frosty nights kept us working hard in the vineyard to protect the young shoots from the cold. This was followed by a hot and dry spring that led to a lighter crop-load than usual with small, intensely flavoured berries that ripened relatively early. A warm and moderate summer naturally down-regulated the vigour of the vines, so that they could focus efforts on fruit maturation. This meant that a smaller but very intensely flavoured crop was picked mostly in the latter two weeks of September. For us, the 2008 Screaming Eagle would be considered a very characteristic vintage, having all of the freshness, floral and perfume elements, as well as finesse, that is classic for this estate. The 2008 vintage, although showing quite beautifully already, is likely to develop some nice nuances over the next 15­20 years as well." ­ Nick Gislason, winemaker, Screaming Eagle "After the early start to the growing season, the Eisele Vineyard harvest began slightly earlier than normal, with the first block of Cabernet harvested on September 11 and the final grapes picked on October 1. The 2008 was unlike any vintage we have experienced since 1991, which was our inaugural vintage. A seriously challenging beginning to the season, but very fine growing conditions from veraison to harvest resulted in one of the best wines we have ever produced." ­ Bart Araujo, owner, Araujo Estate 48 FINE

Lower than normal rainfall (28.9 inches) in the winter and a dry spring; bud break on April 1. There was a very erratic weather pattern throughout most of the early growing season. Temperatures fluctuated from extreme lows to extreme highs throughout the spring and early summer. This vintage gave us ten days over 38C between May and September and an equal number of days below 21C for the same period. This unusual pattern was followed by a cooling trend in midSeptember, which allowed for a slow and deliberate harvest, and September finished with about eight days of between 32C and 37C. The end of this season was perfect for yielding optimal maturity in most of the lots. Overall, truly a moderate climate for Napa Valley, however the method with which it was achieved was truly unique. Harvest began on September 2 and finished on September 29. Average yield: 1.5 tonnes per acre. During fermentation, the wines showed very forward fruit with very soft and supple tannins. As the wines aged in barrels they gained in both complexity and concentration. The end result shows wines with great finesse and density, sharing both an early approachability and a long lived capability. It would be difficult to duplicate the growing conditions we experienced in 2008 and it would have been difficult to predict the outcome of such a weather pattern on wine quality. However, we couldn't be more pleased with the outcome. ­ Bob Levy, winemaker, Harlan Estate "The 2008 growing season was generally drier than average. The valley experienced no significant rainfall after February, so soils all over the valley, and especially in the hillsides, dried out earlier and the season got off to an early start. Because of the dry soils, vines were low in vigour and consequently produced a smaller amount of fruit. There were fewer berries per cluster and the berry size in general was much smaller. The result is a greater ratio of skin to juice, technically speaking. And from a winemaking point of view, it gave us wines that were dense in concentration with aromas that truly centred on the terroir where the fruit was grown. There are more soil-driven aromas in our IX Estate Red wine in 2008, such as clay, mineral and crush rocks, than in most vintages. Concerning a comparison vintage, I'd say every vintage is unique and one could never make a comparison. However, if I was pushed, I'd say that 2008 has the richness of the 2004, with the earthy aromatic profile of 2002. We generally recommend cellaring our wines for at least 5 to 10 years and they will age for twenty years or more." "The late winter and spring of 2008 was abnormally dry and cold. I was up very early in the morning helping with frost protection and sitting in my truck looking at the thermometer for around six weeks straight. The drought conditions and inclement weather, both then and during the bloom, caused lower than normal yields. The summer was cooler than most years, yet a nice warm autumn allowed for very even ripening. We did a fair amount of canopy management of the leaves and fruit clusters in the vineyards to help maximise the amount of sunlight that reached them, yet we managed to avoid sunburnt fruit. We picked each vine several different times over the course of 2­3 weeks as the cool spring caused an uneven set throughout the vineyard. The quality of the crop was very good. The small berries in small clusters were intense in colour and showed a good amount of phenolics without being over-extracted. The mild weather and low yields made this vintage very unique, although there were some elements that were reminiscent of 2006. However, we did not experience the short heat spike that accompanied that summer. It also shared some similarities with 2002 but that vintage was warmer during the harvest, so some producers had some pretty ripe offerings that year. The ripeness of the fruit reminded me of 1992, which was my first vintage in Napa, but we were making wine very differently in the valley back then, so the resulting wines are rather different. The balance of these wines makes them rather approachable at a young age, yet they possess plenty of structure and acidity, which should allow them to age well over a decade and even into the 2020s for the well disciplined collector out there." ­ Kristof Anderson, winemaker, Gargiulo Vineyards ­ Allison Tauziet, winemaker, Colgin N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 49 FINE Vintage

CABERNET SAUVIGNON TASTING Ranking Points Dana Lotus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Maya Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Gargiulo Vineyards Money Road Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Colgin IX Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Gargiulo Vineyards OVX G Major 7 Study Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon Screaming Eagle Harlan Estate Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon BOND Pluribus Dana Helms Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Checkerboard Vineyards King's Row Cabernet Sauvignon Notre Vin Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Blankiet Estate Paradise Hills Proprietory Red Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon Staglin Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon The Maiden Pahlmeyer Proprietory Red 96 94 93 93 93 93 93 93 92 92 92 92 92 92 91 91 91 91 91 91 THE 2008 NAPA 1 - 20 50 FINE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Ranking Points FINE Vintage 51 21 - 50 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 BOND Melbury Dominus Estate Continuum Estate Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap Cask 23 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon The Matriarch Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Opus One Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Inglenook Rubicon Chappellet Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 29 Joseph Phelps Insignia Roam Darius II Inglenook Cask Cabernet BOND Quella Realm Cellars Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Hourglass Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap S.L.V. Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Scarecrow Colgin Cariad Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon BOND Vecina Paul Hobbs Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap Artemis BOND St. Eden Stag's Leap FAY Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 91 91 91 91 91 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 88 88 88 88 88 88 87 86 N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 The challenging vintage of 2008 put the Napa vintners in a position whereby the understanding of the terroir factors of their vineyard site proved to be critical. Only by understanding the terroir of each plot of vines was each wine producer able make the necessary decisions in the vineyards concerning the supporting of the vines during their growth cycle, thereby helping them to produce the best quality fruit. Given the results of our tasting, we may conclude that the best Napa Valley wine producers succeeded in that challenge incredibly well: the quality of the wines is great ­ if not excellent. While all the tasted wines will reach their optimum drinkability after 10 to 15 years, there were a number of surprises according to the wines' current `enjoyability'. The winner of the best Napa Cabernet 2008 is a Napa Valley newcomer, Dana Estates, whose Lotus single-vineyard wine charmed us with its opulence, depth and elegance. 1. DANA LOTUS VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON The quality of the wine Out of the three Dana Estates-owned vineyards, the Lotus vineyard, located on hillsides of St. Helena, stands at 1200 feet above sea level and boasts a beautiful panoramic view of the Napa Valley floor. This steep hillside vineyard is spread over the rocky, low-yielding soils and has western exposure. Thanks to the influence of the afternoon sun, the wines show ripe and rich fruitiness while the three to twelve inches of fractured grey bedrock soil generates the wines' marked mineral structure. "This is incredibly dry, well-drained soil that has very low water holding capacity and in dry, warm vintages it reflects an outstanding level of grape ripeness," Cameron Vawter, the winemaker at Dana Estates, points out. "2008 proved to be a tremendously challenging vintage, yet it ultimately produced some of the best wines of the decade. The vintage characteristics were defined primarily by the strongest La Niña spring for two decades," Vawter continues. According to Vawter, the dry La Niña winter and an unusually warm March led to the earliest bud break on record for many of Dana Estates' vineyard blocks: "This seemed like a good thing until temperatures plummeted in late April and gave us the worst frost season in over thirty years. We used our frost fans for 32 nights during the spring. The frost, combined with some cool bloom temperatures, led to a very uneven veraison. This vintage was like no other vintage that I have experienced. A vintage is really made up of winter rains The vintage 2008 to fill the soil profile, the spring's ability to dry the profile, summer's ability to hold constant and then September's warmth to either push ripening or allow it to happen slowly." Vawter then goes on to say that the previous generation of Napa winemakers has compared the 2008 vintage to the spring of 1972, when the last really serious frost was experienced in the valley. However, apart from spring, he outlines that 2008 was actually a very dry, hot vintage. "It had more heat spikes than any recent vintage. These heat spikes actually stunt a grape's ability to ripen, and this is one reason the vintage boasts such purity and great acidity. The ripening was very rapid, preserving much of the freshness," he explains. 52 FINE

The winemaking practices are based on siteoriented wine production, the philosophy is adapted from Burgundy and organic farming plays a critical part. "Organic farming allows the vineyard to truly express itself and not rely on input after input from man. The site is irrigated minimally and dry farmed whenever possible, in order to highlight the expression of both vintage and vineyard. In winemaking, the fermentation takes place in concrete vats under the influence of indigenous yeasts," Vawter says. According to his experience, the concrete tanks enhance the terroir focus, along with the fruit characteristics of the wine, and soften the chunky tannins discreetly. The fermentation process takes place exclusively with native yeast and bacteria. Sulphur additions are kept to a minimum. The wines are aged in French oak barrels for 24­27 months. Furthermore, no fining or filtration takes place. Winemaking Philosophy Historical Background Dana Estates is owned by South Korean wine lover Mr. Hi Sang Lee, who first fell in love with wine more than 40 years ago, when he lived in New York. In the early 1990s he founded Nara Cellar, a wine importing business in South Korea. In 2006 he opened Podo Plaza, a cutting edge food and wine centre in Seoul that contains a wine bar, retail store, wine academy (WSET) and cooking school (Japanese Culinary Institute). Through his import business, Mr. Lee has been responsible for bringing the world's most sought-after luxury wines to the Korean market, including Harlan, Shafer and Colgin, and has increased awareness and appreciation for world-class wines in his home country. The import business has regularly brought Lee to Napa Valley for more than ten years, allowing him to develop an understanding of luxury wine production and form close relationships with the people whose wine he imports. These relationships were integral to him bringing his dream of creating his own wine brand to fruition: Lee was able to acquire coveted vineyard land and gain access to some of the most talented people in the industry. Mr. Lee purchased the Helms Vineyard and the winery in 2005, which is listed as one of the "ghost wineries" of the Napa Valley and was originally built by H.W. Helms, a German vintner, in 1883. The purchase of Hershey and Lotus vineyards took place in 2006. Owner: Hi Sang Lee Founded: The winery located in Rutherford Bench was originally founded by a German vintner, H.W. Helms, in 1883. Dana Estates was founded in 2005 when Mr Lee bought the old H.W. Helms estate. First Vintage: 2006 Location: St. Helena (Lotus Vineyard) Vineyard size: 4.81 acres Average age of vines: 14 years Production: 291 cases Vineyard management: Philippe Melka, Cameron Vawter and Silverado Farming Winemaker: Cameron Vawter Market Price: $325 N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 53 FINE Vintage

2. Dalla Valle Maya 2008 The quality of the wine Maya is all about power and volume. This intensely coloured wine, which is rich in tannins and ripe jammy black fruits, has the power to last for decades. It is a mouthfilling wine with a masculine structure and is definitely suited to long-term ageing. southern facing site of the Dalla Valle estate. A sunny exposure guarantees the Cabernet grapes ripen perfectly, while the cooling Pacific Ocean breeze helps the grapes keep their acidity level high. The well-drained, rocky soils have a great deal of clay and loam and are rich in iron content, therefore providing Maya wine with its intense, powerful and rich character. The terroir is perfectly suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. "We work hard to subdivide the vineyard, and produce small lots from uniform parts of the vineyard," winemaker Andrew Erickson enlightens. The Dalla Valle estate is situated on a plateau 400 feet above the valley floor, on the hillside of the Vaca Mountains in the district of Oakville. The Maya vineyard is the most Terroir "The wines tend to be quite powerful from the Dalla Valle vineyard, so rounding the tannins is one of the focuses of the winemaking. We have been doing longer macerations to smooth out the tannins and increase the mid-palate of the wines there. The defining characteristics of the wines from Dalla Valle are great structure and rich fruits. So we try to focus on this in the winemaking. But in the end, there should not be a winemaking style reflected in the wine, but a reflection of this great terroir," Erickson says. Winemaking Philosophy Dalla Valle was set up and named after the late Gustav Dalla Valle. Born in Italy, Gustav, along with his Japanese wife Naoko, bought the Oakland vineyard in 1982. After Gustav's untimely death in 1995, Naoko put together a masterful team of vineyard and enology experts, which has only furthered their commitment to producing the highest quality wine. Historical background Owner: Naoko Dalla Valle Founded: 1982 First Vintage: 1988 Location: Oakville Vineyard size: 7 acres Average age of vines: 20­22 years Production: 200­500 cases All wine is sold through the mailing list. This applies also to restaurants and wine shops. Vineyard manager: Fausto Sanchez Winemaker: Andy Erickson Average Market Price: $297 54 FINE

The quality of the wine Ann Colgin owns two properties in Napa Valley: Tychson Hill and IX Estate. Tychson Hill parcel, north of St. Helena and across from Freemark Abbey Winery, produces extremely elegant Cabernet Sauvignon wines that yield in the hands of the Colgin Cellars' team purely mineral, delicately fruity and polished tannin wines that impress with a flirtive flair year in year out. Colgin wine. Colgin Cellars blends talent with terroir, tradition with technology and passion with precision to create wines with distinctive personalities and a profound sense of place," Ann Colgin sums up. Historical background The property once belonged to Josephine Tychson, who is documented as the first woman winemaker in California. Tychson Hill is rich with history. In 1881, Josephine Tychson and her husband, John, a Danish immigrant, bought twenty-six acres, including Tychson Hill Vineyard. The property was known as Lodi Ranch and had been acquired by William Sayward in 1867 from Charles Krug. The couple planted The special terroir features a unique Aiken soil type which runs from Grace Family Vineyard to just north of the property now known as "Tychson Hill Vineyard." The Aiken soils, coupled with carefully selected rootstock and clones on the rocky east-facing slope, give a remarkable fresh berry-scented wine of great proportions. Terroir Winemaking Philosophy "Our winemaking philosophy has always been to express the true character of each unique vineyard site," Ann Colgin explains. The grapes are harvested during the night and go through three sortings, starting in the vineyards. The final one takes place in the winery, where 15 people will do the final sorting before crushing the grapes. Moving the grapes, juice or wine is done by gravity. The barrels, tanks and vinification equipment, along with the basket presses, are of the highest quality. "Only the finest neo-classical winemaking methods are used in concert with small yields, gentle handling, attentive sorting and meticulous blending to capture the distinctive terroir characteristics of each vineyards and dreamed of building a winery. Tragically, John, who was stricken with tuberculosis, died in 1886 at an early age, leaving Josephine with two young children. Josephine was a determined and courageous young woman and she had a great desire to fulfill their expansion plans. She built the cellar on the property and started producing Zinfandel, Riesling and Burgundy ­ all of which were popular varietals at the time. In 1894 she sold the winery and a portion of the vineyards to her foreman, Nels Larsen, after Phylloxera had affected some of the vineyards. She lived alone in the two-story house at Tychson Hill until her death in 1939. After Larsen the property had various owners during the next few decades until Ann purchased it and began the long process of restoring the vineyards, believed to have been taken out during prohibition, and eventually rebuilding the house of Josephine. In 1997, two and a half acres of the vineyard was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon under the supervision of vineyard manager, David Abreu. Owner: Ann Colgin First vines planted: In the mid 1850s. Ann Colgin re-planted the vineyard with Cabernet Sauvignon in 1997 under the supervision of vineyard manager, David Abreu. First vintage: 2000 Location: St Helena Vineyard size: 2.5 acres Average age of vines: Production: 150 cases The majority of Colgin wines are offered by allocation to mailing list of private collectors. A small portion of the production is distributed to select restaurants in the United States, Europe and Asia. Vineyard manager: David Abreu Winemaker: Allison Tauziet Average Market Price: $399 N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 55 FINE Vintage 3. Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 56 FINE

1. (96­100p) The top 24 in ranking order 2. 96p Dana Lotus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon $325 A1 Deep, purple Intense, toasty, mocha, ripe bramble, cherry liqueur, liquorice concentrated, fine-grained powdery tannins, dark chocolate (95­100p) 95p Maya $297 A1 Moderately deep, purple Rich, dark chocolate, smoky, toasty, burnt wood tones tannins, vivid Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, focused, neat, Palate: Full-bodied, elegant fruit, silky Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Lingering, smooth texture, refined An elegant power wine Absolutely yes Twice, last in 11/2011 4 hours 3 hours 2018­2025 Grilled Kobe Beef with red wine sauce and roasted pumpkins Aftertaste: Long, harmonious, seductive In a nutshell: Irresistible Buy or not: Almost impossible to get ­ unless you are a friend of the estate owner 4 hours 4 hours 2020­2030 Tournedos Rossini None The wine has gone through 27 months of ageing in 100% New French Oak, with 30% aged for 12 months in concrete egg-shaped vats. Only 291 cases made. a reservation Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Fake factor: None Inside This is the legendary single vineyard information: wine of Naoko Dalla Valle. It is a blend Or try this: Lunch at the French Laundry without Final verdict: Do anything to get this wine of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The wine is aged in 70­80% new French oak, and annual production is less than 500 cases. The first vintage of Maya was made in 1986. Or try this: Hot-air balloon trip over Napa Valley Final verdict: One of the most legendary wines in Napa Valley N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 57 FINE Vintage

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 3. (94­99p) THE TOP 24 IN RANKING ORDER 4. 94p Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon $399 A1 Deep, purple Perfumy, smoky, floral, lead pencil shavings concentrated, pure dark fruit Long, focused, spicy Energetic and refined Yes, for further cellaring Twice, last in 11/2011 8 hours 3 hours 2025­2030 Fillet of venison with cassis sauce and thyme-flavoured roasted beetroot (93­98p) 93p Gargiulo Money Road Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon $87 A1 Dark, purple Intense, chocolate, ripe black fruits Rich, vivid, intense, chocolate and sweet ripe fruit Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, firm tannins, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Fake factor: None Inside This single vineyard Cabernet information: Sauvignon wine was first produced in 2000. The unique Aiken soil type, coupled with carefully selected rootstock and clones closely spaced on the east-facing slope, gives a strong personality to this wine. Only 150 cases were produced. Money Road Ranch is a 40-acre vineyard located in the heart of Oakville, next to Silver Oak estate. The vineyard has a good terrain for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with its deep, welldrained and very stratified sandy loam and clay composition. The topsoil is gravel alluvial. The temperatures on site fluctuate as much as 16C, between the night-time average of 10C and the day-time average of 26C. Due to high daily temperature fluctuation the wine shows vivid acidity that adds elegance to the wine's rich and ripe fruit flavours and smooth tannic texture. Aftertaste: Smooth, intense and lingering spice In a nutshell: Volaptuous and smooth Buy or not: Best buy from the Napa 2008 Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2018­2022 Food pairing: Duck breast with cassis sauce Fake factor: None Inside information: 5. Or try this: Château Ausone 2005 Final verdict: Solid finesse 6. Or try this: An overnight visit to the Gargiulo winery Final verdict: Blue velvet (93­98p) 93p Colgin IX Estate Cabernet Sauvginon $419 A1 Deep, purple Reserved, smoky, wild raspberries, cedar ripe black fruit intense fruit Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: (92­97p) 92p Gargiulo Vineyards OVX G Major 7 Study $145 A1 Deep, purple Intense, chocolate, pencil shavings, blackcurrant, hints of mint perfumey, fresh black fruits Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, silky, smooth, elegant, Aftertaste: Concentrated, powdery tannins, In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Elegance par excellence Don't miss this wine Twice, last in 11/2011 10 hours 5 hours 2025­2035 Extra aged cheddar None The beautiful IX Estate vineyard is located on a high elevation between 940 and just over 1400 feet, next to Colgin winery on Pritchard Hill. The well-manicured IX Estate vineyard produces some excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot grapes, not forgetting Syrah, from which Colgin Cellars produces one of the world's greatest Syrah wines. Palate: Full-bodied, firm yet elegant, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Intense, satiny, rich chocolate Like Van Houten cacao powder Buy it! Twice, last in 11/2011 8 hours 4 hours 2022­2028 Fried fillet of venison None G Major 7 Study Cabernet Sauvignon is blended from selected fruit from the Gargiulo's 575 OVX vineyard, which is located next door to Screaming Eagle. It is named after a classic jazz guitar chord. Like its namesake, it is composed of four of the five classic Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Petit Verdot (2%) and Merlot (1%). Annual production is around 900 cases. Rings Or try this: Sassicaia 1998 Final verdict: One of the most refined Cabernets from Napa Valley Or try this: Listen to Django Reinhardt's Smoke Final verdict: A wine with a beautiful sound 58 FINE

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 7. (92­97p) 8. 92p Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon (92­97p) 92p Screaming Eagle $1891 A1 Medium intense, ruby Open, aromatic, floral, blackcurrants, violets, smoky black fruits, spicy toastiness Average Market $71 Price: Bottle Condition A1 Colour: Moderately rich, intense, ruby to purple One Point Five takes its name from the term "a generation and a half", coined by John and Doug Shafer to describe their long father-and-son partnership. For 28 years this family team has worked side by side to manage their Stags Leap District winery. The grapes are predominately from two Stags Leap District sites -- Shafer's hillside estate vineyard and the "Borderline" vineyard, which is located about two miles south of the winery. The wine is a blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. Nose: Deep, ripe cassis, chocolate, vanilla Palate: Full-bodied, rich, intense, spicy Aftertaste: Harmonious, long, ripe cassis In a nutshell: A mint Cabernet Sauvignon Buy or not: It's a bargain! Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2017­2022 Food pairing: Deluxe Wakyu beefburger Fake factor: None Inside information: Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Medium-bodied, refined, vivid, ripe Aftertaste: Long, persistent and perfumey In a nutshell: A pure and delicate wine Buy or not: Yes, if you are lucky and on the mailing list 5 hours 3 hours 2020­2025 Roasted elk with creamy chantarelle sauce Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Twice, last in 11/2011 The first Screaming Eagle vintage to be made in the new gravity-based state-of-art winery, where concrete, stainless steel and wooden casks are skillfully used to make harmonious wines. Fake factor: None Inside information: Or try this: 2009 Château Margaux, Bordeaux, France Or try this: Gargiulo Money Road Ranch 2008 Final verdict: An underdog that drinks much better today than the Shafer's legendary Hillside Select. Final verdict: A wine with great promise and potential 9. (92­97p) Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: 10. 92p Harlan Estate $834 A1 Dark, ruby Complex, toasty, floral, rich Full-bodied, rich, ripe jammy fruit, sweet tannins spicy (92­97p) 92p Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon $85 A1 Dark, ruby Rich, intense, chocolate, blackcurrant, spicy acidity, ripe black fruits Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Aftertaste: Concentrated, intense, warming and In a nutshell: A sophisticated yet big wine Buy or not: It is hard to go wrong with Harlan Estate Palate: Full-bodied, smooth tannins, round Aftertaste: Lingering, spicy and energetic In a nutshell: Smooth and plush Buy or not: A bargain, go for it Tasted: 5 times, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020­2024 Food pairing: Medium-rare steaks Fake factor: None Inside information: Harlan Estate wines are always very balanced, but they tend never to show their charming character when opened young. After years of ageing their vivid and complex character stands out and shows why this wine should be named as the First Growth of Napa Valley. Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: 2018­2024 Food pairing: Grilled elk fillet with shiitake risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: The wine is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. The grapes come from Mt. Veeder, Oak Knoll and Napa Valley. 7073 cases of this wine were made. Or try this: A box of Valrhona Palmira vintage chocolate Or try this: 2006 Masseto, Tuscany, Italy Final verdict: Another great Harlan, but still asleep Final verdict: As smooth as a Persian cushion N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 59 FINE Vintage THE TOP 24 IN RANKING ORDER

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 11. (92­97p) THE TOP 24 IN RANKING ORDER 12. 92p BOND Pluribus $399 A1 Deep, purple Toasty, smoky, white pepper, pencil shavings tannins, rich in fruit Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: (92­97p) 92p Dana Helms Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon $325 A1 Deep, purple Open, floral, jammy, brambles, sweet toastiness, spicy satiny tannins Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, elegant, smooth Aftertaste: Round, opulent, refined In a nutshell: A gentle beast with great beauty Buy or not: Yes Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 5 hours When to drink: 2018­2026 Food pairing: Pepper steak with creamed potatoes Fake factor: None Inside information: Palate: Full-bodied, round, jammy yet refined, Aftertaste: Long, velvety, spicy In a nutshell: Elegant and exotic Buy or not: If you find one avaialble Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 5 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2018­2024 Food pairing: Fried duck breast Fake factor: None Inside information: This wine comes from a mountainous 7-acre site that has an elevation of over 1100 feet and steep exposures to the north, east and southeast. The soil is comprised of volcanic bedrock. The name refers to the Latin word for `many', and was chosen to signify the various facets involved in creating a fine wine: from the sun, soil and climate of a vineyard, to the team of people who guide a wine through its evolution. The first presented vintage was the 2003. The Helms Vineyard has history dating back to 19th century, when German vintner H.W. Helms started producing wine on this site in 1883. The Helms vineyard sits at an elevation of 220 feet on soil that is well-drained and alluvial. It consists of cobble, gravel, sand, silt and light clay, all of which which have low water-retaining capacities. The dry soil, along with the cool site, helps to produce really delicate wines. Or try this: Alvaro Palacios L'Ermita 2005, Priorat, Spain Final verdict: The Barry White of Napa Valley wines Or try this: A relaxing massage Final verdict: As refined as the leather used to upholster a Bentley 13. (92­97p) 14. 92p Checkerboard Vineyards King's Row Cabernet Sauvignon $NA A1 Medium intense, ruby Smoky, gamey, pencil shavings, ripe blackberry blackberries (92­97p) 92p Notre Vin Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon $150 A1 Deep, ruby Rich, roasted coffee, mocha, cacao, mint minty Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, elegant, rich, opulent, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Long, harmonious and concentrated A charmingly complex and vivid wine Yes, if you are able to find one Twice, last in 11/2011 7 hours 4 hours 2022­2026 Grilled fillet of venison with a bramble sauce Palate: Full-bodied, intense, subtle, rich, Aftertaste: Long, balanced, mouth-drying In a nutshell: Napa Cab with a Bordeaux twist Buy or not: Yes Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 4 hours When to drink: 2018­2024 Food pairing: Beef Wellington with haricots verts Fake factor: None Inside information: Checkerboard Vineyards is located on the southeastern slopes of Diamond Mountain, at the northern end of Napa Valley. The estate comprises 300 acres of vineyards that are spread between four vineyards with various terroir. The winemaker is the highly-esteemed Martha McClellan-Levy, who is known for her contribution to, for instance, the Blankiet and Sloan estates. Fake factor: None Inside information: Winemaker Denis Malbec was literally born in Château Latour, where he served as a cellar master in the footsteps of his father before leaving Latour in 2000 and moving to Napa Valley with his Swedish sommelier wife, May-Britt. Or try this: A game of chess Final verdict: A bold newcomer in Napa, which Or try this: Château Latour 2008 Final verdict: A wine to watch in the future is expected to produce some fascinating wines in the near future 60 FINE

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 15. (91­96p) 16. 91p Blankiet Estate Paradise Hills Proprietory Red $204 A1 Moderately intense, ruby Intense, ripe black fruit character, toasty, roasted coffee sweet black fruit (91­96p) 91p Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon $191 A1 Dark, ruby Intense, focused, dark chocolate, minty, cassis vivid acidity; an intense dark chocolate and black fruit palate with gentle spiciness Long, elegant and seductive A sophisticated and vivid wine Yes Twice, last in 11/2011 6 hours 4 hours 2022­2026 Lamb chops with a blackcurrant sauce Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, firm, vivid, elegant, crisp, Aftertaste: Persistent and reserved with some astringent tannins, refined Palate: Full-bodied, refined tannic structure, This wine was made by Martha McClellan-Levy, who was assisted by the world-famous oenologist Michel Rolland. In a nutshell: A wine with purity and pleasure Buy or not: A sure bet Tasted: 2 times, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 5 hours When to drink: 2020­2025 Food pairing: New York strip steak Fake factor: None Inside information: Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Or try this: La Dôme 2005, St-Emilion, Bordeaux Final verdict: This is again one of those Blankiet's wines that aims for perfection. Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with a small amount of Cabernet Franc and is aged in 50­60% new French oak barrels. The first vintage was produced in 1986. Fake factor: None Inside information: Or try this: Château Léoville Las Cases 2005 Final verdict: A wine that despite the vintage never seems to let us down 17. (91­96p) 91p Staglin Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon $177 A1 Moderately deep, ruby Solid, intense, black fruits, smoke, a touch of violets, cigar box dense blackcurrant fruit, gentle spiceness, toastiness, balanced tannins and vivid acidity Warming, spicy, tobacco A Napa Cabernet with a classic style Yes Twice, last in 11/2011 5 hours 3 hours 2020­2024 Grilled beef with bell peppers and roast potatoes 18. (91­96p) 91p Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon $136 A1 Medium-deep, ruby Intense, wild strawberries, chocolate, seductive grained tannins, fleshy ripe black fruit Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, rich yet refined style, Palate: Full-bodied, intense, firm and finely Aftertaste: Lingering, supple, vivid In a nutshell: A seductive wine Buy or not: Yes Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 4 hours When to drink: 2018­2024 Food pairing: Juicy steaks Fake factor: None Inside information: Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: The wine is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. It is aged in French barrels (92% new, 8% used) for 22 months Fake factor: None Inside information: Or try this: Ornellaia 2003, Tuscany, Italy Final verdict: A solid and balanced Napa Cab While most wineries in Napa are nowadays focused on single vineyard wines, Caymus Vineyards have been loyal to their historical concept, where the wine is a blend of fruit grown in various sub-regions of Napa. For this vintage, the blend has Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford (32%), Atlas Peak (15%), Oak Knoll (14%), St Helena (9%), Yountville (6%), while the rest are from lesser known destricts. This vintage is not only a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is also the first vintage in the 37year winemaking history of Caymus to have the cool-climate Merlot (14%) in its Special Selection. Or try this: Lafleur 2008, Pomerol, Bordeaux Final verdict: An elegant yet rich Napa Cabernet N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8 61 FINE Vintage THE TOP 24 IN RANKING ORDER

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 19. 91p (91­96p) Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: A1 $270 THE TOP 24 IN RANKING ORDER 20. The Maiden (91­96p) 91p Pahlmeyer Proprietory Red $112 A1 Deep, purple Complex, ripe blackcurrants, sweet, smoky, toasty tannins, liquorice Deep, ruby Rich, roasted coffee, chocolate, floral, violet black fruits Drink later Yes Twice, last in 11/2011 5 hours 3 hours 2018­2028 Venison tournedos with truffle potatoes Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, sweet red fruit, round Aftertaste: Gently drying, firm and powdery finish In a nutshell: A classic blockbuster with good balance Palate: Full-bodied, smoky, firm tannins, fresh Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Dense, tight, closed Only around 2000 cases of Harlan Estate's second wine is produced Fake factor: None Inside information: Or try this: Pingus 2005, Ribera del Duero, Spain Final verdict: Like brand new Ferragamo men's shoes: soft and great to walk in from the first day onwards This wine is a Bordeaux blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. The grapes come from Pahlmeyer's high altitude vineyards, which are located on the Vaca Mountains. The winemaking practices under Erin Greene are carried out using the gentle touch of this great winemaker. After four to five days of prefermentation cold maceration in small open-top fermentors, the actual fermentation takes place using 100% native yeasts. Two to three weeks later, the fruit is gently pressed and moved to the barrel where it finished using primary and secondary fermentations. The wine continues to age in 85% new French oak ­ a combination of Taransaud and St. Martin barrels ­ for eighteen months. It is then bottled both unfined and unfiltered. Buy or not: Yes Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: 2025­2030 Food pairing: Rich game dishes Fake factor: None Inside information: 21. (91­96p) Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: 22. 91p BOND Melbury $399 A1 Moderately deep, ruby Rich, intense, toasty, cedary, black fruits, spicy firm tannins, spicy, mineral mouthfeel Or try this: Dal Forno Amarone 2002, Veneto, Italy Final verdict: A muscle wine (91­96p) Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: 91p Dominus Estate $185 A1 Moderately deep, ruby Intense, minty, blackcurrant Full-bodied, floral, violets, silky, warming, smooth tannins Palate: Full-bodied, intense ripe black fruit, Aftertaste: Long, aromatic, mineral spiciness In a nutshell: A classy Napa Cab in its youth Buy or not: Yes! Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: 2018­2025 Food pairing: Entrecôte with Frenc fries Fake factor: None Inside information: This rocky, 7-acre hillside vineyard, located above Lake Hennessey on ancient sedimentary soil with compressed clay, is isolated from the Napa Valley at an elevation of 348 to 522 feet. The eastern and southeastern exposure allows the vines to capture the morning sun and avoid excess heat during the afternoons. As a result, the wines show perfumey and aromatic nuances with refined texture. Owned by Christian Moueix, owner of the legendary Pétrus Estate in Bordeaux. The wine is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvginon, 13% Cabernet Frane and 3% Petit Verdot. Aftertaste: Long, dense, good balance In a nutshell: A wine with the spirit of Bordeaux Buy or not: Yes Tasted: Twice, last in 11/2011 Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: 2025­2030 Food pairing: Classic steak with a pepper sauce Fake factor: None Inside information: Or try this: Trotanoy 2003, Pomerol, Bordeaux Final verdict: Like a great Pomerol from a ripe vintage Or try this: Finca Dofi 2004, Priorat, Spain Final verdict: A well-raised teenager 62 FINE

THE BEST NAPA CABERNET 2008 FINE Vintage 63 THE TOP 24 IN RANKING ORDER 23. (91­96p) 24. 91p Continuum $155 A1 Deep, ruby Complex, intense, toasty, black fruits, violets, liquorice acidity, silky texture, lovely ripe black fruit Solid, spicy, firm A wine full of life and energy Absolutely yes 4 times, last in 1/2012 8 hours 5 hours 2020­2025 Fillet mignon with bacon and haricot verts Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: (91­96p) 91p Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard $240 A1 Intense, deep ruby Rich, focused, ripe blackcurrants, spicy, smoky, bacony intense and ripe fruitiness, refined Powerful, mineral, smoky A wine with a smoky soul Yes Twice, last in 11/2011 10 hours 6 hours 2022­2027 Grilled fillet of venison with mild creamy pepper sauce Average Market Price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, smooth tannins, vivid Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, good tannins, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Continuum is a relatively new project that was created by Tim Mondavi and his family. He decided to continue the family history of premium winemaking after the family company named after his father, Robert Mondavi, was sold to Constellation Brands. After years of searching, he found a location high above Oakville in Napa Valley, on the eastern side of the valley at an elevation of 1300 to 1600 feet. The name Continuum was chosen because the Mondavis wanted to continue the winemaking legacy of their family. The vineyard soils are red, volcanic in origin and very rocky. The topsoil is typically only 3­4 feet deep with massive amounts of large rocks and boulders. These poor soils result in very low yields ­ well under two tonnes per acre ­ and fruit of great density and power. The wine is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot, most of which is estate-grown fruit from the winery vineyards on Pritchard Hill. Fake factor: None Inside information: A vineyard that is located on a steep hill on the other side of the road to Screaming Eagle. On this steeply terraced slope, the Joseph Phelps winery cultivates 20 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Petit Verdot and 1 acre of Malbec. The red-coloured soil and long hours of sunlight retain heat and therefore yield very ripe grapes. The well-drained, rocky soil imparts rich tannins and flavours of chocolate and berry, as well as a smoky minerality. Fake factor: None Inside information: Or try this: E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2003, Rhône, France Final verdict: An exceptional Napa Cabernet that shows personality unique to Napa. The terroir yields strong smoky and bacony aromas that are most often attributed to Syrah and Côte-Rôtie. Or try this: Cullen Wines Diana Madeline 2008, Margaret River, Western Australia Final verdict: The `Cirque du Soleil' of wines All prices have been resourced from wine-searcher.com N A PA VA L L E Y V I N TAG E 2 0 0 8

Michelin Guide Three Stars San Francisco Chronicle Four Stars The Restaurant at Meadowoood Worth a Special Journey The Restaurant at Meadowood Chef Christopher Kostow

Relationships are core to life in Napa Valley. or the last half century, Napa Valley the original gathering place for the Valley's has provided the panorama for a burgeoning wine community, Meadowood unique way of life--directed by the has now become an international wine industry and acted out by a host of destination and boasts membership within local players. Wine is the thread weaving the the exclusive ranks of Relais & Chateaux. art of man with the Come for a visit. bounty of nature in Walk the fairways a complex pattern on which Auction of relationships-- Napa Valley has relationships that go raised more than $90 to the core of the million since the Valley's legendary first gavel was raised. way of life and set Mingle with the the stage for a story vintners and growers like no other. as they enjoy their The community club through sport that is Napa Valley activities, recreation, contributes to local and the pursuit of enterprise through lifelong wellness. its vast experience Dine on the private and deep-seated terrace of your relationships. In adguestroom or spend dition to grape growthe evening enjoying Master Sommelier Gilles de Chambure ers and wine makers, a meal prepared it includes agriculturalists, great chefs, som- by Michelin Three-Star chef Christopher meliers, maître d's, gallery owners, innkeep- Kostow in The Restaurant at Meadowood. ers and shop proprietors. All depend upon Spend a day exploring the wineries you've each other for their unique livelihood and longed to visit with Gilles de Chambure, lifestyle. Master Sommelier, whose sole role at For the past 46 years Meadowood Meadowood is to enhance guests' knowledge has served as the heart and soul of the and enjoyment of wine. winegrowing community--as a center for A stay at Meadowood offers you entry social and family life and as a second home into an extraordinary way of life. Capture for travelers from around the world wishing the magic of Napa Valley and develop your to immerse themselves in the region, its own relationship with the people that define wines, and its people. Founded in 1964 as this unparalleled experience. F the sporting life at meadowood The forested hillsides of Meadowood's two hundred fifty-acre valley slope to the cool green of the estate's nine-hole, walking golf course. Presiding over the tranquil fairways and the golf teaching facility is Resident Golf Professional Doug Pike. Meadowood's Resident Tennis Professional, Doug King, is one of the country's leading tennis teaching innovators. The founder of Acceleration Tennis, a revolutionary teaching system, King is leading the way in reinterpreting the traditional tennis model, working with players of all skill levels from beginner to professional. Between dining and wine experiences we invite you to stretch your legs with a game of golf or tennis. 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, California 94574 Tel (707) 968-3153 www.meadowood.com

K John Text: Chr is Fl eming Photos: Pek k a Nuik k i townhouse of his family business. Half a dozen or more people buzz around behind us, making preparations for an upcoming auction in Hong Kong. In a couple of days, John will fly to China for this sale, the first of several he has planned for Hong Kong this year. J apon ohn Kapon, the 40-year-old CEO of Acker Merrall & Condit, is the man who smiled when wheeled luggage was invented; his suitcases have rolled as many miles as some cars. Recently, we sat down in a conference room one early evening in the 66 FINE

John Kapon: The fine wine auction world's New York Giant JOHN KAPON 67 FINE Personality

J K Acker Merrall's auction business is a smash success The figures are impressive. In 2010, Acker Merrall & Condit grossed around $99 million in auction business from NY, Hong Kong and the Internet, and another $15­20 million from its retail business. In 2011, Acker grossed about $110 million in auction business from 16 live auctions held in NY, Hong Kong and Chicago, and the retail business is expected to be up 10 per cent on 2011. In 2011, Acker chose Chicago as a new U.S. auction market because the city was viewed as "one of the few markets that has proven it can sustain a wine auction." In 2011, Acker Merrall held six auctions in Hong Kong, where the company has an office and fulltime staff. Hong Kong auctions grossed around $69 million ­ just under two-thirds of Acker's total auction business for 2011. New York and Hong Kong are therefore the core markets, while Chicago and the Internet are areas of future growth. John compares the enormous preparation and anticipation of an auction to what American football players experience on game day. "It's always very intense and exciting; the auction is like Sunday to a pro football player." Over 250 000 bottles were sold at auctions in 2011 and any single auction has about 1000 lots. Far from being threatened by the presence of other wine retailers and brokers that have asserted themselves in retail markets lately, John is encouraged that the wine trade constitutes 25 per cent of Acker's auction business. Overall, this indicates an active wine business that is healthy and growing. "The fine wine market is dominated by French wines. Bordeaux continues to be the most important segment and there's also Burgundy. Other important segments are Champagne, the Rhone, Italy, Spain, California, Australia, Port and Madeira. I look forward to when we are selling Chinese wine at auction. In fifty years, it may be a whole new market. Something tells me the guys who have been doing it 68 FINE ohn proudly proclaims that Acker Merrall & Condit currently holds "the triple crown" ­ or in other words, the leading auction house sales for the U.S., Asia and the world. In 1997, Acker partnered with another company to hold its first auction. John's father, Michael, ran the business then, a period when the New York auction scene had only a few players aside from Acker. After a few auctions, held with small, independent houses and which were fraught with problems, John decided Acker would hold auctions on its own. John explains: "I never thought the auction business would grow to become anything like this. It has taken many years and a huge effort to build this business. It is great to see the wine world support the energy that we've put out." apon Hong Kong: The new world of fine wine auctions John finds Chinese collectors quite sophisticated and knowledgeable, with a taste for the best and strongest brands. Unlike New York, Hong Kong restaurants do not have wine on every table. As a young market, the potential growth of Hong Kong is massive. since the 1800s are still going to be on top: France has special geography and terroir," John opines.

K John explains the recent auction interest in Burgundy: "In Hong Kong, we have sold more great Burgundies than anyone else, like the Don Stott Collection. For the past month or two, everyone has been saying `now it is Burgundy's turn.' Bordeaux wines are still trading actively. Sometimes, markets go down a tick or two, but overall the market is very stable. If you look at the big picture, the market is strengthening by diversifying. There is more to the whole wine world than Bordeaux, even though it is always going to be the most important segment of the market. Collectors are now discovering different regions. People like variety and we are seeing that expressed more in China, as well. Over the last few years, wine is still up 250 per cent. As an asset class, wine has a relative stability that is very favourable compared to anything else." ping a First Growth while he cheers on his favourite American football team, the New York Giants. This image and John's definitively American sensibility speaks directly to how the wine world has changed. wine on the Titanic. Established in 1820, Acker remains the third oldest licensed business still active in New York State." to understand older wines is an acquired taste." The enjoyment of fine wine is in my blood First Growths and football Straightforward and direct, John enjoys giving his honest impressions without embellishment. He loves wine and the people he enjoys it with, and he displays a genuine lack of pretence about the subject. It is remarkable to consider that John has perhaps drunk more rare, mature fine wine than anyone else in the world, and I can picture him sip- There are parallels between the evolution of John's family store, his personal journey through wine and the appreciation of wine in the U.S. A third-generation wine merchant, John muses that, "The enjoyment of fine wine is in my blood." John's grandfather ran the store in the 1950s and 60s, a time when it was more important to have different flavours of schnapps than several vintages of DRC. John's father ­ Michael oversaw Acker's major shift from liquor to fine wine. "Acker has a long history of selling fine wines. I have seen ads for 1878 Krug, 1865 Lafite and 1929 Yquem for $4 a bottle. A century ago, Yquem was the most expensive Bordeaux because the sweetest wines were viewed as the best. Before Prohibition, Acker was a nationwide chain, and it had After attending Wesleyan University and NYU, John had a brief stint as a music producer before he joined Acker. In his early 20s, he cut his teeth on cult California Cabernets during the mid-1990s, an exciting time of discovery. Screaming Eagle, Bryant Family, Colgin and Harlan blossomed and seriously rocked the wine world. Today, even with his palate's super-fine pedigree, John still enjoys a $15 bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. "Over time, I discovered the different flavours and nuances of Old World wines as opposed to the obvious New World styles. There is nothing like old wines. Every bottle is a unique experience, even if it is from the same case. The combinations and permutations in certain bottles of older wines are amazing. I love mature, older wines, and there should be more interest in them than there is. There is a big drop-off in interest in vintages before 1982. The ability The great tasters and iconic wine dinners Bipin Desai, George Sape and Rob Rosania are among the world's most important wine collectors, and John refers to them as "the great tasters." Many of John's clients in this group are also personal friends. John estimates that he attends 100 private tastings and wine dinners in this rarified strata, usually before or after an auction. During one such dinner, 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill, 1985 Petrus double magnum, 2001 DRC Grands Echézeaux, 1999 Roumier Bonnes Mares magnum, 1999 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze, 1990 Latour, 1985 Haut-Brion, 1995 Cheval Blanc, 1970 Gruaud-Larose magnum, and 1982 Margaux were a mere fraction of what was opened. Just one of these August wines could easily be the best wine a serious aficionado would ever taste, but dozens of mythic and jaw-dropping vinous gems are uncorked during these dinners as a matter of course. JOHN KAPON 69 FINE Personality

Kapon John tions had such impact, that overnight a wine's value could quadruple. Today, the brand is most prominent due to the wealth of information online. "Now, there are 98-point wines you cannot give away for $60. That would never have happened 10 years ago," John notes. The taste of American consumers has evolved from White Zinfandel to Chardonnay. Wine is on every table in New York and other major cities, and this has begun to spread to the rest of the U.S. John's highly reputed tasting notes recount many of the great wines he has tasted. Named Vintage Tastings, these notes are available to Acker clients. Funny, irreverent and racy, they are not like notes penned by Hugh Johnson: "My tasting notes are a reflection of who I am," explains the man himself. The following notes are taken from John's Vintage Tastings "We've built our auction business on word of mouth. Loyalty is important and drinking wines and having a wonderful meal with good friends is what this business is all about. Great wines are no fun if you cannot get together, share them and create this great energy. Always connect great wines with the people that want to experience them," explains John. During an auction, John will often open up a lot of different wines, as do his clients. Similar to the wine dinners, there is a unique fraternity with a convivial atmosphere, as well as a profound kinship and largesse as special and rare as the wines themselves. The pedigree of the grand old bottles has resulted in a staggering, unbelievable array of the world's greatest wines, many of which have several decades of bottle ageing behind them. During one such auction, a client of John's opened a rare jeroboam of 1945 Bollinger Champagne ­ a wine most industry veterans have never even seen, let alone tasted. Enter 1962 DRC La Tache. At first, there were oysters and ocean action in the nose; it needed some time to unravel, and did it ever. Aromas of rose and tobacco slowly took over, with secondary rose and menthol seeping up out of its earth. The palate was out of control. It was rich, saucy and long with crazy spice and oomph to its finish. I must confess that I was starting to think the sun was setting on the 1962 vintage, in a long, graceful way, as great vintages fade away and never disappear. I am happy to officially stand corrected. Long live La Tache. 99 pts. apon seltzer, bread and citrus. Secondary flavours of orange, chocolate and tobacco emerged in this incredible wine. It was a 1966 Krug Blanc de Blancs, the pre-cursor to Clos du Mesnil that was only made once, and only 500 bottles were made. Holy shit. 99 pts. As good as the 1981 and 1980 were, the 1979 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises was in a league of its own... The 1979 had a fabulous nose that was pure, liquid cream. It was deliciously aromatic, with white fruits and musk in perfect harmony. Its flavours were also great, dominated by cola and chocolate at first. This got more than one wow in my notes; its complexity was special. It gained in the glass, its extraordinary acidity flexing with each repetition, gaining a caraway complexity before the last sip sadly disappeared. 98 pts. 2012: The next big game Vintage tastings: John's notes with attitude There has been a radical change regarding the influence of wine critics. Only a decade ago, the Internet was not as widespread in the wine trade. Ratings from wine publica- Its nose was both classic and insane at the same time. There were hints of hinterland oak, along with meaty, yellow aromas that were sweet, rich and nutty in an autumnal way. Its palate was musky and zippy yet rich and lush, with divine flavours of Thanks to John's leadership, Acker Merrall & Condit currently dominates the global wine auction market at a moment when new high net worth collectors from China have recently entered the fine wine market to join collectors from the U.S., Europe and Japan. Like his favourite New York Giants who recently won the Super Bowl Championship again, John has an exceptional opportunity and is in a great position to win. The future of fine wine auctions has never looked brighter for John Kapon and Acker Merrall & Condit. > 70 FINE

Is the Chinese market maturing? A smartly and tastefully dressed mainland Chinese man in his 40s walks into a wine retail store in Hong Kong and looks around. He has just arrived at the IFC building in Central, where rents are the most expensive for any office or retail in any mall in the world, and he came from the nearby Four Seasons Hotel where he is staying. He then starts picking up bottles of Leroy Chambertin, Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne and the older Conterno Barolo, goes up to the counter and pays for them with a Hong Kong-based credit card. He is about to take them back to his house in a suburb of Shanghai, where he has recently in installed a couple of Euro Caves or Sub Zeros. He will put them in there until such a time when he takes them out, opens them using his Screwpull and carefully decants the wine before sharing it with enthusiastic friends at the dinner table - in perfectly suited Riedel stems, of course. If you know the "normal" Chinese market - the market that has been so overexposed in the media - this story is about as likely as the London Bridge being for sale ­ again! This same man would have normally been found walking around in Alfred Dunhill or Gucci clothing from head to toe, and, while staying at the Conrad Hotel, he would have arrived to pick up any bottles of Lafite or Mouton that he could find to take back to the Mainland and give them as presents to some of his business connections or officials that he planned to have meetings with. Times are changing and they are changing fast. The Chinese, especially those from the Mainland, who were blamed for the rising prices of Lafite; who were smartly and tastefully dressed mainland Chinese man in his 40s walks into a wine retail store in Hong Kong and looks around. He has just arrived at the IFC building in Central, where rents are the most expensive for any office or retail in any mall in the world, and he came from the nearby Four Seasons Hotel where he is staying. He then starts picking up bottles of Leroy Chambertin, Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne and the older Conterno Barolo, goes up to the counter and pays for them with a Hong Kong-based credit card. He is about to take them back to his house in a suburb of Shanghai, where he has recently installed a couple of Euro Caves or Sub Zeros. He will put them in there until such a time when he takes them out, opens them using his Screwpull and carefully decants A the wine before sharing it with enthusiastic friends at the dinner table ­ in perfectly suited Riedel stems, of course. If you know the "normal" Chinese market ­ the market that has been so over-exposed in the media ­ this story is about as likely as the London Bridge being for sale ­ again! This same man would have normally been found walking around in Alfred Dunhill or Gucci clothing from head to toe, and, while staying at the Conrad Hotel, he would have arrived to pick up any bottles of Lafite or Mouton that he could find to take back to the Mainland and give them as presents to some of his business connections or officials that he planned to have meetings with. Times are changing and they are changing fast. The Chinese, especially those from the 72 FINE

Gil LempertSchwarz Mainland, who were blamed for the rising prices of Lafite; who were supposedly the reason behind Bordeaux 09 and 10 En Primeurs setting new world records for non-existing wines being released; and who were responsible for Prada going public on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, are beginning to look for new things. Now, if this trend happened in Belgium nobody would have noticed, but when a country that has 100 million millionaires begins to change habits that are not even that old to begin with, is this a sign of real change or perhaps just a change in fads? I think we need to look at the underlying factors that are at play here. The one thing that can be counted on is the fact that the Chinese are not stupid. They have a much longer history than anyone else in the world at being great at business and clever with money; indeed, they invented both. When wine fund managers want to pin the rising prices for En Primeur Bordeaux on the newly wealthy Chinese, while buying all they can get to push up prices and show a healthy return to their investors, things are not going well and there is a clear bubble in the market. The Chinese, of course, would never dream of buying anything they cannot take immediate physical control of following the purchase, and have always laughed at the notion that they would be stupid enough to put money down for three years before they could see the wine in their hands. Why on earth would they do so, they always asked. Good question indeed. A big deal was made of this in the Western press, while it got no attention at all in the Chinese media. Furthermore, all those funds that tried to manipulate the market, and the chateaux that released their wines at far higher prices than the traditional market was willing to pay, are now stuck with the majority of the production from both the 09 and 10 vintages while prices in the general market are dropping faster than a wine merchant skydiving off a suitable building. Meanwhile, in China itself, and it is always important to segregate this market from the one in Hong Kong as it is much younger and technically less sophisticated, things are changing fast. While it used to be nothing but Bordeaux being bought and sold, there is now genuine demand from the wine drinking public for other options, and wines from Burgundy, Italy and even the US are on the rise there. It is all still in its very nascent stages, but the signs are quite encouraging in the sense that this suits the trend towards what economists like to call a maturing market: one that begins to discover other options and brands, and where the spending public begins to take an interest in something other than the biggest names or brands. Time will tell, but the signs are all there. As the Chinese begin to discover what all of us have known for many generations, it could ultimately spell disaster for these wines' traditional markets. While the producers line their pockets with newly minted Chinese Gold Pandas, guys like you and me who loved buying a bottle of Liger-Belair Les Petits Monts for dinner will no longer be able to afford it, let alone find it in a store nearby. But as we say here in Las Vegas: money talks and bullshit walks...> COLUMN 73 F I N E L e m p e r t - S c h wa r z

74 FINE

Wines for Celebration 1952 Text: Juha Lihtonen & Pekka Nuikki Photos: Pekka Nuikki Bordeaux Vintage The recovery from the Second World War was slow and wine producers had many challenges ahead of them. Their production facilities were in poor condition and there was no capital for investments. However, thanks to several great harvests, the period from 1945 to 1961 yielded some of the most heralded wines in the history of Bordeaux winemaking. Although 1952 did not make it on to the list of the greatest vintages from this period, which includes 1945, 1947, 1949, 1950, 1953 and 1959, it certainly yielded some very attractive wines that are perfect to enjoy today ­ especially with people who turn 60 this year. W I N E s F o r C E l E b r at I o N 75 FINE Vintage 1952

harvest report 1952 In 1952, the season started with a moderately warm and dry spring. The summer months, from June until the end of August, were dry with an average daily temperature of 20.5C; the temperature climbed to over 30C on 29 days. Unfortunately, Mother Nature turned her back on the producers at the very end of the season. Rain and cold weather arrived on September 4 and in Pauillac, for example, it rained for 22 days. The rain partly diluted the crop and, due to the cold weather, the phenolic ripeness of the lateripening varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon was left slightly short. Thus, the Cabernet Sauvignondominated Left Bank did not fare as well as the Right Bank, where the earlier-ripening Merlot is dominant. On the other hand, the Right Bank avoided the worst rains during September and producers like Cheval Blanc, with its Cabernet Franc­oriented wines, were able to harvest their crop at same time in the middle of September and under better conditions than their colleagues on the Left Bank. According to our experience, the best wines of the vintage have been Cheval Blanc, Pétrus, l'Eglise-Clinet and La Mission Haut-Brion. However, we have been stunned every now and then by the lesser-known St-Emilions from this vintage. If we compare the prices with the quality of these wines, we can conclude that they are Bordeaux's best-kept secrets from this decade ­ and most are still drinking beautifully providing the bottles have been restored properly. To get the best enjoyment out of these wines, make sure to decant them just fifteen minutes before serving as they do not handle the air as well as the better vintages. "We have very little information about this vintage. We know that harvest at Château Mouton Rothschild began relatively late, on September 18 (a lot of châteaux began around September 11), and that the sugar richness was very good. The harvest ended around September 30. The variety mix is quite stable at Château Mouton Rothschild; for this vintage, cabernet sauvignons represented approximately 80 per cent. I tasted it a year ago at a dinner in New York with George Sape, Master of the Bordeaux Commanderie. The wine was dense, concentrated with closed tannins and in the style of the 1986 Mouton Rothschild, but without all the substance. To me, the year is a fairly good success." Philippe Dhalluin, Group Managing Director Baron Philippe de Rothschild 76 FINE

1952 97p 1952 Château Cheval Blanc 1110 A2 Deep, dark red, healthy Elegant, sound, cedar, vanilla, white chocolate, coffee bodied, sweet, multi-layered Balanced, delicious, eternal As good as Pétrus 1952 Yes 18 times, last in 3/2011 1.5 hours 1 hour Now to 2020 Grilled entrecôte with sauteed peppers 96p 1952 Château Pétrus 1329 A1 Mature, bright-red, healthy Wide, fat, straightforward, cedary, blackberries, earthy, ripe, rich, perfumed, compound Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average auction price Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Harmonious, balanced, rich, mediumAftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Palate: Voluptuous, well-balanced, opulent, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: Persistent, vibrant, fresh, smooth Perhaps the best Pétrus of the 50s Yes 18 times, last in 8/2011 1 hour 2 hours Now to 2025 Rabbit ragoût Quite big Perhaps the best Pétrus of the 50s Château l'Evangile Clinet 1952 Great Classic Fake factor: Beware of fake VDM-bottlings Inside This must be the best price-quality information: ratio Cheval Blanc that can be found. The vintage was very good overall in Bordeaux but especially on the Right Bank. A warm spring and hot summer from June until the end of August ensured good vegetative growth to the vines. Only the cold September ruined the dreams of outstanding quality. Or try this: Vega Sicilia Unico 1958 Final verdict: Thoroughly okay! 94p Château Mouton-Rothschild 1952 855 A1 Very dark, healthy, promising Distant, sweet, warm, gentle, flower aromas, leather, liquorice, wild blackberry sweet, opulent, intense 94p Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: 1952 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 769 A2 Good, dark-red, healthy Straight, sound, sweet, cedary, vanilla, dark chocolate, fruity, foggy medium-bodied, fragrant, complex Long, vital, fresh An inspiring wine with edge Yes 16 times, last in 8/2011 2 hours 2 hours Now to 2020 Roasted coeur de fillet with truffle flavoured potato puree Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Supple, well-balanced, gentle tannins, Aftertaste: All-embracing, silky, complex In a nutshell: Ensemble Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 15 times, last in 9/2011 Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2020 Food pairing: Cep risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: The Mouton's 1952 vintage label Palate: Masculine, well-balanced, vigorous, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Beware of fake VDM-bottlings Inside La Mission Haut-Brion made some information: mind-blowing wines in the 1950s- together with the grand 1950, 1953, 1959, and even the superior 1955, this wine is a very good example of the high eminence of this significant estate Or try this: Château Latour 1952 Final verdict: An insider's wine artist Léonor Fini was born in Buenos Aires, but grew up in Trieste, Italy, in an exclusively feminine household surrounded by her mother, grandmother and great-aunts. With her androgynous appearance, she was described as very beautiful and eccentric. As a young girl, Fini had already refused to be conformist in any way, dedicating herself to painting instead. As a self-taught artist, she practiced anatomical drawings in morgues, and also caused a sensation in Paris society circles. Without identifying with surrealism, she kept in close touch with its protagonists such as André Breton, Max Ernst and Man Ray. She enjoyed high regard as a book illustrator and as a set and costume designer for the theatre and opera. Léonor Fini's paintings document her delight in the unreal and mysterious. There were often hermaphroditic figures, catlike women and mythical beasts. This is also the style of her label for Baron Philippe de Rothschild, as she decided to draw a feminine, elfin face with prominent ram horns. Or try this: Château Mouton-Rothschild 1959 Final verdict: Classic stuff! W I N E s F o r C E l E b r at I o N 77 FINE Vintage 1952 THe besT bordeaux wines of besT

THe besT bordeaux wines of besT 1952 93p Château Margaux 1952 289 A1 Profound, bright-red Old Bordeaux style, classy, fragrant and intense tannins and well-balanced Good but not great Good quality-price ratio 12 times, last in 2012 1 hour 1 hour Now Aged Parmigiano Reggiano Very low Everything seemed to point towards an outstanding year, since the months of June, July and August had been hot and dry. Unfortunately, September was cold and very rainy and prevented the grapes from reaching an excellent ripeness level. (The picking began September 15 at Château Margaux) 92p Château Palmer 1952 190 A2 Clean, bright, promising, rich Wide, smoky, white truffles, blackcurrant, minty lush and masculine harmounious Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Medium-full, passionate, elegant, firm Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Perfumed, voluptuous and long Palate: Forward, medium-full, passionate, Aftertaste: Balanced, medium-long and In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: A good effort Today, but not tomorrow 12 times, last in 2012 30 minutes 1 hour Now Oven-baked guinea fowl with lentils and bacon Fake factor: None Inside The Palmer vineyards cover 55 information: hectares in the commune of Cantenac. Most of the plots are concentrated on a plateau of thin gravel from the Güntz period on the Margaux appellation. Or try this: Château Lynch-Bages 1962 Final verdict: Very stylish birthday present for a sixty-year old Or try this: Château Mouton-Rothschild 1955 Final verdict: Overlooked by many 91p 1952 Château Lafite 842 A1 Healthy, medium-deep, clear Elegant, open, blackberries, earthy, vanilla, tobacco, truffles, herbs severe, decent structure and backbone, charming A sister of 1982 Lafite Relatively costly 9 times, last in 2011 30 minutes 30 minutes Now Braised veal with roast potatoes & thyme Lafite 91p 1952 Château Cos d'Estournel 160 A2 Healthy, dark, sound Open, graceful, classy, leather, smoked meat, vanilla, outlandish spices fruity, smooth tannins Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Average auction price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Sophisticated, medium-bodied, Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fresh, lengthy, prolonged, dryish Palate: Balanced, profound, medium-bodied, Aftertaste: Refined, long, balanced, mighty, spicy In a nutshell: Fine for the vintage Buy or not: Bordeaux 1952 vintage has an excellent drinkability­price ratio 5 times, last in 2012 1 hour 1 hour Now to 2020 Grilled lamb chops with garlic potatoes None Cos, in the old Gascon tongue, means `The Hill of Pebbles" Château Palmer 1948 Well behaving Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: Fake factor: You never know ­ Chinese love the Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: The average auction price has tripled during the last year Viña Real 1952 If you are seeking real pleasure ­ try to find the epochal 1953 vintage instead 78 FINE

AT P I P E R- H E I D S I E C K , T H E M O S T N OT EWO RT H Y C O LO U R IS NOT THE RED, BUT THE GOLD. Piper-Heidsieck's Winemaker is elected Champagne Winemaker of the Year*. For the sixth time in eight years, Régis Camus has been crowned by the prestigious International Wine Challenge UK. Beyond the talent of the man, it is the uncompromising quality of the Piper-Heidsieck wines, awarded year after year, that dazzles. www.piper-heidsieck.com * Winemaker of the year in Champagne category, Septembre 2011.

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Berlin Text: Juha Lihtonen Photos: Markku Pääsky E duardo Chadwick, one of the leading figures in Chile's wine world, organises a large-scale half-blind tasting each year in one of the major cities around the world, bringing together several of his wines alongside some of the world's most renowned Cabernet Sauvignons. Held for the first time in Berlin in 2004, the tasting put Chadwick's wines in the limelight as they stole the top spots in a comparison with legendary Bordeaux wines. Last year, in 2011, the venue for the event was Helsinki. Some 40 wine experts gathered in Hotel Kämp's luxurious Mirror Room to assess whether Chadwick's Cabernet Sauvignons could live up to their reputation next to the classic wines. THE BERLIN TASTING 81 F I N E E v ein r i e n c e Mx p e t e t t u a a s

n the last forty years, many blind tastings have been arranged around the globe for the world's media and leading wine experts, whose outcomes have rocked the wine industry. The most famous of these was the 1976 Paris Tasting, which has even been turned into a movie (Bottle Shock). In that event, organised by the famed British oenophile Steven Spurrier, a jury of esteemed French experts conducted a half-blind tasting of top French wines in parallel with the top Californian wines. The results were sensational, as the New World wines won in I Eduardo Chadwick both the red and white categories. Suddenly, the eyes of the wine world turned to the United States, and Californian wines claimed their place among the most celebrated labels in the world. Having worked on the quality of his wines for twenty years, Chadwick decided to hold a similar event in Berlin, in order to raise his country's profile throughout the wine world. For the comparison, he picked five of his best wines and set them against top Bordeaux. A prestigious group of wine experts was invited, including Spurrier. The winners, out of ten different wines, were Viñedo Chadwick 2000 and Chadwick's collaboration with Robert Mondavi, the Seña 2001. The third and fourth places were taken by Château Lafite 2000 and Château Margaux 2000 respectively. This success convinced Chadwick to continue organising the events annually with different vintages and in different cities. The name of the event remained The Berlin Tasting. This year, Chadwick's selection comprised Château Margaux 2007, Château Mouton-Rothschild 2007, Château Latour 2007, Haut-Brion 2007 and Sassicaia 2007. From his own wines, he chose the Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère blend Viña Chadwick 2007, the Bordeaux variety wines Seña 2007 and Don Maximiano 2007, and the nearly 100 per cent singlevariety wines KAI Carménère 2007 and Le Cumbre Syrah 2007. On account of significant quality differences in that vintage, the Bordeaux and Italian wines were fairly easy to distinguish in the half-blind tasting due to their crisp acidity and fresh fruitiness. Of the Chilean wines, 2007 was an excellent vintage. The wines are highly balanced and characterised by a jammy fruitiness and plenty of alcohol. Although the Chadwick wines tasted here were set apart due to their jammy quality, they still constitute an elegance and dryness that most Chilean wines lack. Having tasted numerous fine wines from Chile over many years, I must say that Chadwick's wines are more reminiscent of the classic French style than the most of his Chilean colleagues. Considering their quality, and comparing them with other esteemed wines from the New World, their sales prices could be higher than they currently are. The Berlin Tasting is a great example of how a single, quality-focused New World wine producer can annually gather together representatives of the world's wine media and consistently challenge the top wines year after year. Chadwick's wines do a great job promoting their country, but it would be interesting if the Chilean marketing organisation, Wines of Chile, would follow Chadwick's example and bring wines from other top Chilean producers to compare with legendary Cabernet Sauvignons ­ not only from Europe but also from Napa Valley and Australia, to name but two. As much as top Chilean producers need this, the traditional markets of fine wines, particularly in Europe, need new options to fill in the gap that overpriced top Bordeaux wines have left. There is certainly room for a region to take that position, although will it be Chile? We shall see, but at least Chadwick has taken the bull by the horns and set the benchmark for his colleagues in Chile. > 82 FINE

The top three wines of the Berlin Tasting Helsinki panel Chile 2007 The season started with a warm spell during the winter months and budding occurred a week earlier than normal in generous weather. The warm and dry weather then continued, causing earlier flowering in October. In November, the temperatures dropped radically which caused uneven pollination; this was the reason the yield was smaller than average. The following months, from January to February, experienced good weather, while in March the temperatures rose to over 30C, pushing the grapes to ripen faster. However, the heat spell then abruptly ended in the last week of March, with the cold causing problems for the earlier-ripening varieties because their phenols did not seem to ripen at the same pace as the fruit. Thus, the final harvesting was postponed until the latter part of April. The vintage turned out to be a smaller quantity vintage, with high quality wines as a result. According to Viña Errazuriz, head winemaker at Francisco Baettig: "The red wines from 2007 exhibit great aromatic intensity and very good fruit concentration, with juicy mouths and round and sweet tannins. The quality of the Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots and Pinot Noirs is excellent, while the Shiraz exhibited slightly drying tannins until late in the season. Tasting the wines, I think they are evolving very well. Carmenère could reveal somewhat greener and/or spicier notes than in other years." FINE's ranking: 1. Solaia 2007, Toscana, Italy 2. Château Latour 2007, Pauillac ­ Bordeaux, France 3. Viñedo Chadwick 2007, Maipo, Chile 4. Château Mouton-Rothschild 2007, Pauillac ­ Bordeaux, France 5. Errazuriz KAI Carmenére 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 6. Seña 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 7. Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 8. Château Margaux 2007, Margaux ­ Bordeaux, France 9. Errazuriz La Cumbre Syrah 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 10. Sassiacaia 2007, Bolgheri ­ Toscana, Italy 89 p 88 p 88 p 87 p 86 p 86 p 85 p 84 p 82 p 82 p The result of the entire panel: 1. Château Latour 2007, Pauillac ­ Bordeaux, France 2. Château Mouton-Rothschild 2007, Pauillac ­ Bordeaux, France 3. Viñedo Chadwick 2007, Maipo, Chile 4. Solaia 2007, Toscana, Italy 5. Errazuriz KAI Carmenére 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 6. Seña 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 7. Château Margaux 2007, Margaux ­ Bordeaux, France 8. Sassiacaia 2007, Bolgheri ­ Toscana, Italy 9. Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile 10. Errazuriz La Cumbre Syrah 2007, Acongagua Valley, Chile THE BERLIN TASTING 83 F I N E E v ein r i e n c e Mx p e t e t t u a a s

Berlin 84p Château Margaux 2007 Margaux, Bordeaux ­ France 450 A1 Medium intense, purple (84­89p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: (82­87p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Bolgheri, Tuscany ­ Italy 140 A1 Medium intense, ruby Closed, floral, cherries, herbaceous 82p Sassicaia 2007 Classic bordeaux style with elegance, roasted coffee, capsicum Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, toasty, delicately oaky Aftertaste: Medium-length, mineral, a bit edgy Margaux In a nutshell: Delicate and truthful to Château Buy or not: You can get better wines for your money Tasted: Twice, last in 2011 Medium-bodied, acidic, astringent tannins, tight Aftertaste: Light, oaky, moderately short In a nutshell: An unbalanced wine at the moment Buy or not: No point in buying unless you are Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: ready to wait for at least 20 years Twice, last in 2011 Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: 6 hours 3 hours 2020­2022 Smoked duck breast with a truffleflavoured potato purée None A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc Château Palmer 2007, Margaux, France An elegant wine with a distinctive Château Margaux style. A good wine for a moderate vintage. 6 hours 3 hours 2025­2030 Aged Parmigiano Reggiano None The wine is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The total production per year is around 180 000 bottles. Or try this: Ornellaia 2007, Bolgheri, Italy Final verdict: Not enjoyable at the moment (85­90p) 85p Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2007 Acongagua Valley, Chile 60 A1 Deep, ruby Jammed, cassis, hints of mint (88­93p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Maipo ­ Chile 150 A1 Intense, purple Dense, black fruits, liquorice 88p Viñedo Chadwick 2007 Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, powerful, vivid, round rich tannic structure Aftertaste: Toasty, jammy and warming In a nutshell: A slightly clumsy wine Buy or not: Yes, if you are a fan of big New World Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: reds Twice, last in 2011 12 hours 5 hours 2018­2022 Grilled lamb chops with garlic potatoes None One of the first prestige wines from Chile ­ launched in 1989. The wine is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Syrah Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Puente Alto, Chile A big, blockbuster style Cabernet Sauvignon wine Full-bodied, vivid acidity, refined tannins, supple ripe fruitiness, black fruits Aftertaste: Long, mineral, oaky In a nutshell: A rich yet sophisticated power wine Yes Twice, last in 2011 Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: 12 hours 5 hours 2025­2030 Juicy steaks None The Viñedo Chadwick vineyard was planted in 1992 on the family's polo court. Or try this: Almaviva 2007, Maipo, Chile Final verdict: This wine will show its true colours after 15 to 20 years 84 FINE

(84­89p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Acongagua Valley, Chile 60 A1 Deep, purple Delicately jammy, cassis, smokiness 84p Errazuriz Le Cumbre Syrah 2007 (89­94p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Tuscany ­ Italy 230 A1 Intense, deep, purple 89p Solaia 2007 Medium-bodied, vivid, slightly astringent tannins Aftertaste: Long, powerful, very oaky In a nutshell: Turbo-oaked Syrah Intense, ripe blackcurrants, dark chocolate Palate: Rich, medium-bodied, fleshy fruit, fine-grained tannins, spicy Aftertaste: Harmonious, long, chocolatey, cloves surprises Yes Twice, last in 2011 Buy or not: Will you miss something if you do not buy it? No. Tasted: Twice, last in 2011 In a nutshell: Like Santa's bag: rich and full of nice Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: 6 hours 3 hours 2020­2025 Roast fillet of venison with a cassis sauce and oven-baked root vegetables None The first Syrah vines were planted on the Don Maximiano vineyard in the early 1990s. Viña Ventisquero Pangea Syrah 2007 Too oaky at the moment 8 hours 5 hours 2025­2030 Tournedos Rossini None The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc Or try this: Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, USA Final verdict: The Maserati GranTurismo of wines (86­91p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Tuscany ­ Italy 230 A1 Opaque, puprle Very intense, jammy, cassis 86p Seña 2007 (87­92p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Pauillac, Bordeaux ­ France 450 A1 Deep, purple 87p Château Mouton-Rothschild 2007 Full-bodied, rich, toasty, jammy, meaty Aftertaste: Rich, refined, spicy In a nutshell: As juicy as a good steak Delicious, seductive, roasted coffee, blackcurrants Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, slightly green tannins, cedar Aftertaste: Long, oaky, mineral store Buy or not: Yes, if you like jammy and expressive reds Tasted: Twice, last in 2011 In a nutshell: A wine with a soul like a Cuban cigar Buy or not: Pricey, but this is a pleasant Mouton Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: that drinks well for one so young Twice, last in 2011 6 hours 4 hours 2025­2030 Grilled lamb saddle with a thyme sauce None The average age of the vines is 44 years old. Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley, USA Mouton has often surprised everyone by producing extremely good wines from mediocre vintages. This vintage is yet further proof of that. One of the most famous and iconic wines of Chile, which was created as a joint venture project between Edouardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi. Mondavi was inspired to create a similar winery project in Chile to that of his and Baron Philippe de Rothschild's Opus One in Napa Valley. Nowadays, the winery, which produces this one wine only, is fully owned by Chadwick. Or try this: Opus One 2007, Napa Valley, USA Final verdict: An iconic Chilean wine, but where is all the complexity and charm? Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 5 hours When to drink: 2025-2030 Food pairing: Barbecued T-Bone steak Fake factor: None Inside information: THE BERLIN TASTING 85 F I N E E v ein r i e n c e Mx p e t e t t u a a s

Berlin (86­91p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Palate: Acongagua Valley, Chile 60 A1 Opaque, purple Reserved, cassis, cedar, coffee 86p Errazuriz KAI Carmenère 2007 (88­93p) Region Average market price: Bottle Condition Colour: Nose: Pauillac, Bordeaux ­ France 530 A1 Deep, purple 88p Château Latour 2007 Full-bodied, vivid, supple tannins, warming alcohol, ripe black fruit Aftertaste: Medium-length, warm and flavourful In a nutshell: Rich and sophisticated Yes, if you are a Carmnère fan Twice, last in 2011 12 hours 6 hours 2018­2022 Pan-fried venison fillet with a sweet potato purée None A young project, where the debut vintage was 2005. The wine is a blend of 86% Carmenère, 7% Petit Verdot and 6% Syrah. Concha y Toro Carmín de Peumo Carmenère 2007, Chile One of the best Carmenère wines made in Chile Reserved, floral, ripe cassis, nice toastiness, a touch of raspberries Palate: Full-bodied, satiny texture with powdery tannins and fresh dark fruit Aftertaste: Long, sophisticated, charming Latour Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: In a nutshell: A seductive and delicately styled Buy or not: You can buy riper Latours for the Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Or try this: Final verdict: same price 5 times, last in 2011 10 hours 5 hours 2025­2030 Medium-rare sirloin steak with salty rustic potatoes None The first vintage that was made using the estate's new wine cellar facilties Château Haut-Brion 2007, PéssacLéognan, France Surprisingly drinkable for a young Latour Or try this: Final verdict: 2007 In terms of wines, this is not a year to remember in Bordeaux. The beginning of the year was generally mild and dry until the pouring rains arrived at the end of January. A rainy February was followed by a mild and moderately wet March. In April, warm weather pushed through the region, and thanks to this favourable weather the bud-break was at least two weeks earlier than the previous year. The budding took place in fine weather; however, in May Mother Nature turned her back on Bordeaux once again and cold rainy weather battered the area. During the summer months, the weather changed constantly between heat waves and heavy rains, generating rot problems due to the high humidity in the vineyards. An exceptionally wet August then drenched Bordeaux ­ indeed, rainfall was measured at more than twice the monthly average. Luckily, September turned out to be very warm, sunny and dry, which helped the grapes to ripen and concentrate, and a good vintage ensued. Bordeaux ­ France A mild and generous winter with low rainfall encouraged the vines to bud early and vegetative growth started ten days earlier than normal. The flowering took place under ideal weather conditions and was followed by excessively warm summer months. Fortunately, the weather cooled down in August and the vines picked up a preferred pace in terms of the grape ripening process. The ideal weather remained throughout the harvest, from September to October, with sunshine and high daytime temperatures while cool nights helped the ripe grapes to keep their high acidity and freshness. The quality of the vintage was outstanding. Tuscany ­ Italy 86 FINE

tesoro is the flagship-wine. the tesoro-blend was first created in 2002 and the 2003 vintage was awarded the "Decanter World Wine trophy". Vintage 2004 received excellent 90 points by "Falstaff Wine Guide". EstErházy WEin 7000 Eisenstadt · schloss Esterházy · Austria · t +43 2682 633 48 · F +43 2682 633 48 16 · www.esterhazywein.at · wein@esterhazy.at

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Text: Ken GarGeTT Cullen's Diana Madeline Cabernet Blend ­ "The Song of the Land" n the battle for the heavyweight crown of Australian wine, most pundits would have the championship between Penfold's Grange and Henschke's Hill of Grace. Grange's longevity, consistent quality and international reputation would probably earn it a narrow nod, though personal preference is the ultimate arbitrator. So often linked, and both brilliant wines, they differ in many ways ­ think big budget corporate winemaking opposed to a small, high quality and family-run operation. Grange is almost always a Shiraz Cabernet blend, relying largely on the Barossa but also sourcing its fruit from numerous regions ­ even on occasion venturing past the borders of South Australia into neighbouring states. It is, and always has been, aged in Ameri- I can oak. Quantities vary but there are suggestions that in some vintages production has been as high as 15 000 cases. Hill of Grace is a single vineyard wine, hailing from the eight-hectare vineyard at Eden Valley in the hills surrounding the Barossa Valley; it is 100 per cent Shiraz, and these days sees mostly French oak. Quantities are a fraction of that of Grange, because, although the actual vineyard also has mataro, semillon and riesling, Hill of Grace comes only from the ancient shiraz vines, some of which date back around 150 years. The first Grange, experimental though it might have been, was 1951; the first Hill of Grace was 1958. At this juncture, I would like to propose a third contender. 89 C U L L E N V I N E YA R D S FINE Estate

"The Song of the Land" It doesn't come from the ancient vineyards of South Australia; it isn't even a Shiraz. It doesn't come from the ancient vineyards of South Australia; it isn't even a Shiraz (a suggestion close to heresy in Australia); and it is made under biodynamic principles. Cullen Wines, in Margaret River in Western Australia, makes a number of superb wines but none better than their Diana Madeline (DM), a `Cabernet and friends' blend. Production is at Hill of Grace levels ­ between 1000 and 3000 cases, depending on the vintage. Those who argue against the credentials of DM could cite the concerns above ­ not South Australian, not Shiraz and nor does it have the international reputation enjoyed by Hill of Grace and especially Grange ­ but they are hardly relevant. More legitimate would be that this is a wine which has offered less than thirty vintages. Consider the first decade (`81 to `90) as the `decade of establishment', which came immediately before the `decade of emergence' (1991 to 2000), and now we have just seen the `decade of stardom' (2001 to 2009). For me, we saw enough in the nineties to know a new star had arrived in the Australian wine firmament, and this last decade has more than confirmed the greatness of the wines. They have earned endless plaudits from every local critic and will surely do so from those outside Australia in time. Humble Beginnings Dr Kevin and Diana Cullen moved to Western Australia in the late 1940s, when it must have resembled the last frontier. Kevin was a local doctor in the small town of Busselton and established the Busselton Health Survey, which has attracted worldwide interest from the international medical community. He and Di also had an interest in farming and purchased land in the Margaret River region for sheep and cattle. For the next twenty years, the region, several hours south of Perth, was seen as agricultural land and, for those prepared to make the journey, one of Australia's most exciting surfing destinations. It was an odd mix: farmers, surfers and the occasional hippie. The Cullens were not the first medicos in the region; in fact, if you had to get ill in a wine region, Margaret River was definitely the one to pick: Dr Tom Cullity set up Vasse Felix in 1965, followed by Dr Bill Pannell at Moss Wood and the Langans at Xanadu. Dr Peter Pratten then founded Capel Vale soon after. Studies in the sixties by the famous agronomist Dr John Gladstones suggested the region might be suitable for viticulture, not least because of the maritime climate, low frost risk, ample sunshine and equable temperatures. He felt it compared to St Emilion and Pomerol. Gladstones was following the work of the 90 FINE

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Whether simply through the power of suggestion or something more serendipitous, the tannins in Margaret River Cabernet are often described as `gravelly'. 92 FINE

Vanya has found that biodynamics strengthen the vines making them more able to resist insect attack on their own. American geologist, Dr Harold Olmo. It was enough to tempt the Cullens, at Gladstones' direction, into planting an experimental plot ­ a mere quarter of an acre. In 1971, this was followed by a further seven hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. It would be nice to think that this was an inspired decision but, in reality, these were the only varieties they could source at the time. The Riesling has long gone, even though it provided the winery with some of their earliest successes in the show system, but the Cabernet proved fortunate in the extreme. The Cullens have now expanded their vineyards to 28 hectares. Cabernet ­ and it has patches of superb Chardonnay, as well. Some will argue that it has every claim to be the finest region for the variety outside Bordeaux, but that will always be an argument for late nights. Their climates are quite similar, with Margaret River's Mediterranean climate and low rainfall over the summer period providing an even accumulation of warmth. It can be too hot (2012 is very likely to fall into this category) or too cool and wet ­ the latter affected the 2006 harvest ­ but generally it has the unfair advantage of too many absolutely superb years. I asked Di's daughter and senior winermaker Vanya if that ever got boring. "Oh God no", she gasped, horrified at the thought. The soil is dominated by gravel and sandy loam over granite. Whether simply through the power of suggestion or something more serendipitous, the tannins in Margaret River Cabernet are often described as `gravelly'. The region leapt from curiosity to `flavour of the month' when nearby Cape Mentelle picked up successive Jimmy Watson trophies (Australia's most desirable wine trophy) for their Cabernet in the early eighties (the 1982 and 1983 in the Melbourne Wine Shows of 1983 and 1984, respectively). Suddenly, a district seen as a fringe curiosity became the name, and wine, on everyone's lips. The Vineyards and the Winemaking Early success saw expansion and Di Cullen left her physiotherapy practice to become a fulltime winemaker. She took over in time for the 1981 vintage. The early wines were straight Cabernet, making their debut with the 1975 vintage. In 1978, a Cabernet Merlot blend was also made. The straight Cabernet was discontinued after the 1981 vintage, as it was felt it was often a little too hard. Reserve wines were also made from 1988 to 1994, but the practice was discontinued after that vintage. Vanya (named after Chekhov's character), who had attended Roseworthy College, was only the second woman in Australia to become a full wine judge. She is considered to have one of Australia's finest palates and took over as senior winemaker in 1989, after stints with Robert Mondavi in the Napa Valley and Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy. In 2000, she became the first woman to be named `Australia's Winemaker of the Year'. Sadly, Kevin Cullen passed away in 1994 and Di followed in 2003. The vines that now provide the Diana Madeline ­ the wine was so dubbed with the 2001 vintage, as a tribute to Vanya's mother ­ were planted in 1971 (with some subsequent plantings in the 1990s from the Mangan Vineyard, used because they mature Margaret River For a very long time in Australia, Coonawarra was King. Cabernet Sauvignon was the noble grape and nowhere did it half as well as Coonawarra. Then, in the 1990s, Shiraz began its inexorable climb to the top of the tree. If that wasn't enough to spoil a Coonawarra winemaker's day, that upstart place full of hippies and surfers in the far corner of Australia was suddenly making Cabernet that the critics were placing on a par with those from the famous cigar-shaped strip of terra rosa soil. Margaret River has now established itself as Australia's premier location for classic "The Song of the Land" C U L L E N V I N E YA R D S 93 FINE Estate

sufficiently to provide top-notch fruit), using what are known locally as the `Houghton clones'. Cullen Wines is located in the Wilyabrup subregion of Margaret River, which features the granitic soils typical of Margaret River. The old vines have sent their roots down seven metres into the granitic soil, thereby moderating the tougher years. The vines are on Scott Henry trellising. Vanya's belief is that this assists in providing darker fruits and more supple tannins, as well as a "better ripeness at lower alcohol levels", all of which helps to instil "a feeling of place" into the wines. Cabernet is the dominant variety, with varying amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and even occasionally some Malbec and Petit Verdot, all of which are vinified separately and then matured in a mix of new and used French oak for a year and a half, as a general rule. The oak is usually about 50 per cent new (again, it varies from vintage to vintage), with Vanya preferring the tighter grained French oaks. Her preference is for barrels from the Taransaud cooperage. Vanya believes that the vines now have significant age to provide a much greater depth of fruit, describing the style of DM as "about freshness and complexity, structure and suppleness". She believes that the soil, in warmer years, imparts ironstone nuances to the wines. In cooler years, this comes across more as a seaweed character. Vanya is one of Australia's strongest proponents of biodynamics, which she sees as "the combination of working with the soil, the plants and the cosmos". Certification was granted in 2003, with the first vintage following a year later ­ they had been fully organic since 1998. She believes that it achieves "greater individuality of site through working with nature rather than against it", and that it improves the level of oxygen in the soil, allowing for better dispersal of the root system. "The Song of the Land" 94 FINE

Furthermore, Vanya finds that the "vines are more balanced" and that this alleviates the need for thinning. There is better ripeness when alcohol levels are lower. This also allows her to pick earlier, sometimes finishing before neighbouring vineyards have even started. Operating under the theories of Rudolph Steiner, Cullen Wines makes their own compost. Preparations of 500 (cow manure buried under female cow horns over the winter and used "when the moon is in opposition to Saturn or on a descending moon" ­ seriously), which is sometimes combined with fish emulsion, and 501 (ground silica, again buried under female cow horns but this time over summer) are applied twice in the autumn and twice in the summer, with extra 501 if there is a problem with insects or poor ripening, though Vanya has found that biodynamics strengthen the vines making them more able to resist insect attack on their own. Causurina tea is applied to prevent powdery mildew and botrytis ­ two litres for every hectare is usually sufficient. Cullen's use an under vine weeder, which controls the South African garden weevil; the weevil has no known local predators and the weeder disrupts its breeding cycle. Not surprisingly, Vanya is delighted with the result, describing it thus: "This is how we see the vineyard being sustainable ­ the old vines will produce consistent, balanced, quality fruit for many years to come!" Cullen Wines has also set up beehives for improved pollination (and for some of the delicious honey icecream that is occasionally available at the restaurant). The restaurant also benefits from the biodynamic and organic garden that allows the kitchen team to select ingredients on a daily basis. Few producers anywhere take such a holistic and committed approach, not only to their vineyards and wines but to their entire operation. C U L L E N V I N E YA R D S 95 FINE Estate

"The Song of the Land" The noticeably finer tannins in recent years are attributed to the move to biodynamics, however Vanya believes that it is the use of basket presses, since 2008, which has taken the tannin structure to an entirely new level. What she believes is important, though, is not so much setting up an "intentional direction" but rather the outcome. Her view is that "the most important decision my parents ever made was the choice of site". There has been no fining of the reds since 1999 and native yeasts have only been used since 1996. No wine has had any acid addition, which is almost compulsory in Australia, since the 2006 vintage. What was extraordinary about the tasting of these wines was the freshness evident through the entire range and the longevity ­ twenty years is no challenge at all for these wines. Indeed, it seems almost necessary. It confirmed that Margaret River is not only one of the world's finest regions for Cabernet-based wines but that Cullen's is surely the leading proponent of the style. It is difficult to imagine any producer from Coonawarra or Napa Valley, or any but the very best of Bordeaux, being able to put forward three decades of Cabernet with such brilliant quality year after year. The Future To celebrate their 40th anniversary, Cullen's hosted a weekend tasting which took participants through their entire range. The Chardonnay, named `Kevin John' in honour of Vanya's father, sits comfortably among Australia's top examples, but this tasting provided compelling evidence that the DM is the nation's finest cabernet. And it might just be good enough to take the top gong for Australia's best wine. Cullen's will continue to work biodynamically, committed to wines of the highest quality that offer a real sense of place; and not just Margaret River but their own small vineyard site, with some of the oldest vines in the region. As Vanya says, "the song of the land is in the bottle". It is a poetically appropriate description, as Vanya also loves music and is convinced that certain wines respond better when drunk with different music, thereby increasing one's enjoyment of both. For me, this is another way of saying that if you are drinking a wine you are enjoying while listening to music that appeals, then it is likely that the entire experience will be enhanced. And it is certainly far less curious than the Sherry producer in Jerez that has taken the genome sequence of its yeast, set it to music (don't ask me how) and now plays it back to the barrels of maturing Sherry. So, the final piece of the puzzle: just what does enhance Diana Madeline? For Vanya, the perfect song is Jimi Hendrix's version of Dylan's `All Along the Watchtower', though most rock will suffice. Bruce Springsteen 96 FINE

"The most important decision my parents ever made was the choice of site". Vanya is convinced that certain wines respond better when drunk with different music, thereby increasing one's enjoyment of both. and Led Zeppelin also rank highly, as does Bizet's `Carmen' and most Wagner. If we move to whites, most notably the `Kevin John' Chardonnay, Mozart, Beethoven and Bach all do the job. I have difficulty envisaging Michael Broadbent and Hugh Johnson, earphones on and glass of Latour in hand, rocking along to Led Zeppelin or Slade, but who knows. We didn't quite establish whether different vintages require alternative music. It is a strange place, Margaret River, and perhaps with the passing of time, the hippies have morphed into winemakers. Whatever the rationale, though, it does produce the finest Cabernets in Australia, and not one is better than Cullen's `Diana Madeline'. > C U L L E N V I N E YA R D S 97 FINE Estate

Cullen Wines Vertical 1981­2008 The Baker's Dozen plus one 91p 1981 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot Average auction price: Prices for more recent vintages, especially the better ones, are creeping up but in general they do not appreciate anything like the top European wines. This is, in part, due to auctions not playing such an important role in wine sales in Australia. The wines tend to sit within A$20 to $50 of the current release price, which is now around A$120 to $150: brilliant buying in comparison to wines of equivalent quality from certain other regions of the world. The reality is that although the wines are exported to numerous markets, they will very rarely be found on the secondary market outside Australia. Expect that to change in time. Bottle Condition: All bottles for this tasting came from the cellars at the winery. If there was any question at all about the wine, before or during the tasting, a replacement was immediately provided. Cork taint was particularly prevalent during the 1990s in Australia, despite wineries receiving assurances that they were purchasing the best corks available. Vanya found a rate nearing 20 per cent in wines from this decade. With the move to screwcap in recent years, this issue is no longer relevant. 2001 saw the first experiment with screwcap and the winery quickly moved to bottling almost all of their production under this form of closure. A small quantity is still bottled under cork for sections of the American market, as are larger format bottles. Colour: Brick-red, soft and mature. Impressive for its age. Nose: Spice, dry herbs, lightly roasted meat notes. Hints of truffle and earth. 93p 1982 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot Average auction AU$ 450 price: Colour: Astonishingly, still offering some brightness. Soft reds. Nose: Alluring fragrances, fresh herbs, a tiny note of mint, rose petals. A flick of chocolate emerges with time. Palate: The freshness is quite baffling. Lighter Aftertaste: Dances. Very fine tannins, almost imperceptible. Yes 2011 2 hours 1 hour than many but offers a regal elegance. Finely balanced. In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Elegance personified Perhaps the question should be when wouldn't you drink it? And I could not imagine any time. But sooner rather than later works better. Palate: A lovely, supple style. Fully mature, fine grip. A structure that peaked some time ago but which has held up superbly since then. Aftertaste: Holds its length. No great intensity but a lingering delight. amazingly well. In a nutshell: A fading beauty that has held up be available for purchase, even in Australia, are slim. The occasional one will, however, pop up at an Aussie auction. If you see them, grab them. held at the winery in July 2011. I had seen almost all of the wines at varying times over the past few decades, especially the more recent releases. Obviously, the older wines will have matured and evolved over that period but the younger wines revealed themselves to be remarkably consistent. Buy or not: The chances that these bottles are likely to Tasted: The tasting notes all come from the vertical tasting Decanting time: All wines were opened, checked and decanted approximately two to three hours prior to tasting. Glass time: The wines were served in flights ­ 1981 to 1990; 1991 to 2000; and 2001 to 2010 ­ and we had extensive time to taste each flight, allowing for evolution in the glass. that put Margaret River on the map, but it wasn't this wine that did it. Close neighbours Cape Mentelle won Australia's most coveted wine trophy, the Jimmy Watson Trophy, which is awarded annually at the Melbourne Wine Show to the best One Year Old Red (and yes, the insanity of having your major trophy awarded to a red that usually has not even been bottled is not something that has escaped notice, but is a topic for another day). Cullen's was a close runner-up. Having tried both wines recently, there is no doubt that the judges got it the wrong way around. This wine has held up superbly; sadly, Cape Mentelle less so. Cape Mentelle rose again with their 1983, and on that occasion it was a clearly superior wine to Cullen's. Yields were 1.5 tonnes per acre for the Cabernet and a miserly 1 tonne per acre for the Merlot. A 73/27% blend which spent 22 months in oak. The long, cool ripening period was ideal for Cabernet. Harvest was not until well into April, rather than the more usual March picking. Di Cullen was so pleased with this wine that it led to the decision to drop the straight Cabernet and concentrate on the blend. Mind you, it took three years to sell this vintage ­ at A$6 a bottle. Food pairing: Lamb stew Fake factor: None Inside information: An excellent vintage and the one Or try this: A date with Audrey Hepburn Final verdict: Would-be perfection, watching your favourite rugby team, or the ballet, if you prefer. When to drink: No time like the present. Won't get any better. Food pairing: Rabbit pâté. Fake factor: Unlikely. At this stage, if Australian wine is to be faked, Penfold's Grange is the leading candidate, though we've seen attempts to fake entry level wines, so nothing is sacred. At present it would be surprising but as the reputation of this wine continues to grow, it will undoubtedly raise the interest of counterfeiters. Vanya is not aware of any attempts to fake this wine. Inside information: A hot, dry vintage. Moderate alcohol of 13%. Yields of 1.2 tonnes per acre. As well as the Cabernet and Merlot, there is a dollop of Malbec. At the time, it was seen as an atypically tannic vintage. Vanya discovered in her family's records that they needed ten egg whites per barrel. As Vanya says: "Old wines make you feel very humble and, yes, choosing a good site has helped but my parents didn't really know that at the time. Yet, it was Mum's first vintage and you think, `Wow, how good does that look?'" Perhaps the most insightful comment came from Peter Mammone, Cullen's viticulturist, who readily admits to not being much of a taster. "That wine smells like its soil.'' No one would know that better than Mammone. Vanya was utterly delighted, and for her it was a vindication of decades of work. Her reply was that, "it was such a beautiful point to make". Or try this: A solid Second or Third Growth from 1982. Final verdict: For a first time effort, this is extraordinary. Remember that these vines are barely a decade old, it was Di Cullen's first vintage as a winemaker and the region had hardly made so much as a blip on the vinous radar of the day. It was an early indication of just how well Cabernet from Margaret River can age. 98 FINE

95p 1986 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot 93p 1990 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot Average auction AU$ 350 price: Colour: Depth. Less of the red mature hues, Nose: Delightful floral notes waft endlessly. Nose: Cassis, cigar box, dry herbs, exotic spices and a flick of tomato bush. And then imagine sniffing handfuls of warm earth and fresh truffles. flavour here that was not encountered in any of the earlier wines. Wonderful complexity, imperial balance. Textbook Cabernet structure. intensity throughout. Still exhibits a flick of bright acidity. you could have sneaking this into a lineup of 1986 Bordeaux. Any given day 2011 2 hours 1 hour Now is good but there is absolutely no need to rush. Good bottles will sail through the next ten to fifteen years. Showing more red berry notes. A gentle spice cabinet. Cigar box and cedar. nose indicated. Seriously complex. Complete and seamless. lingers and lingers. Palate: This is more richly flavoured than the Aftertaste: Layers of fine tannins in a finish that In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: What we call, in Australia, a cracker Yes, cheaper than most of it's rivals 2011 2 hours 1 hour Not yesterday, not tomorrow: today is perfect. But tomorrow and any time over the next ten years would also be pretty good. Palate: There is a richness and a depth of Aftertaste: Great length here, which maintains its In a nutshell: Still in the prime of life. Think of the fun Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: impressive wine in the tasting, this was a glorious return to top form. 1986 was the best season enjoyed by the Cullen's up to that point, with a cool summer certainly helping matters. It produced classic Cabernet across the region and this was always going to be a vintage for the cellar. Yields were 2 tonnes/acre for Cabernet and an excruciating half a tonne per acre for Merlot. A March harvest; alcohol 13.5%; and 24 months in barrel with 30% of the new oak. Food pairing: Roast beef sandwich Fake factor: None Inside information: After the disappointing 1985, the least and the usual blend were produced. The difference was simply that the Reserve saw more time in oak. Both wines, which were identical blends, spent two years in oak, half of which was new. The Reserve was usually then transferred to all-new barrels for a further year. In this vintage, it spent an extra 11 months in oak. Alcohol was 13% and the wine was a blend of 65% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Harvest was the first week of April, though the Merlot came in a little earlier. Yields were higher than usual with 2.9 tonnes/acre for Cabernet, 4.2 tonnes/acre for Merlot and 4 tonnes/acre for the Franc. At one stage, it looked like it might be an extremely difficult vintage, even though a mild and dry summer was an ideal start, with Cyclone Vincent bearing down on the region, but in the end there were only a few showers during the harvest. These helped rather than hindered and 1990 kicked off a dream decade for excellent vintages. Food pairing: Mushroom risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: The third vintage where both a Reserve Or try this: The thrill when a ten-pound brown trout takes your dry fly Or try this: A mature Saint Luis Rey Double Corona ­ from 2001 if you can find any this as it avoids the hint of oak influence shrouding the Reserve. Was there anywhere on the planet that didn't excel in 1990? Final verdict: This is the wine that announced Cullen's `coming of age'. Final verdict: A match for the Reserve of that year, but I prefer 94p 1991 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot 95p 1994 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot Average auction AU$ 200 price: Colour: Still vibrant and alive, an enticing combination of maturity and fresh strawberries. strawberry fruits, with black fruits lingering in the background. A bit like sticking your head into Grandma's spice cupboard. complex, balanced on a knife-edge and as seamless as satin. Average auction AU$ 300 price: Colour: Quite concentrated dark hues. Nose: The aromatics are so entrancing that one almost forgets to drink the thing. Cassis, dark fruits and a spice garden. Nose: Floral notes, a mix of raspberry and Palate: Great concentration here. Serious Palate: Finesse and elegance. The wine is complexity. Immaculately balanced with a fine line of vibrancy and finesse running the length of the wine. throughout. The tannins not quite as velvety as in some years, but are still very fine. vintage and the grapes, makes this a must. Absolutely yes 2011 2 hours 1 hour Now until 2020 but good bottles will exceed this Aftertaste: Very long and it maintains its intensity Aftertaste: Fine velvety tannins. Like Pinocchio's nose, it just kept getting longer. In a nutshell: Compelling evidence as to Margaret Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 2011 Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now and for the next ten years Food pairing: Barbecued duck Fake factor: None Inside information: 1991 has been described as a textbook River's ability to provide elegant, ageworthy Cabernet. In a nutshell: The pedigree of the site, as well as the Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: vintage. A perfect ripening season, a short period of heat in January and then a long spell of mild conditions. Cropping levels were very similar to 1990, with Cabernet down a smidge. The Cabernet was harvested in the last two weeks of March and the first two of April. The other varieties came in on March 11. 13.5% alcohol. A blend of 60% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 10% Franc. The wine saw 20 months in oak, half of it new. Again, a Reserve was produced, which enjoyed an extra year in oak, but again, my preference was for the `standard' blend. The Reserve, as good as it was, still exhibited a little extra oak influence and lacked the finesse of the other wine. Or try this: Margaret River has many stellar performers but the "First Growths" would most likely include Moss Wood, Woodlands, Cape Mentelle, Vasse Felix and Pierro, as well as Cullen. Final verdict: Anyone believing that great Australian wine begins and ends with the blockbuster Barossa Shiraz is about to have their world turned upside down. must love Margaret River. As if the duo of 1990 and 1991 weren't enough, some rated 1992 as highly. Then along comes 1994, the best of the decade (some rate 1995 on a par and 1996 only a whisker behind, while 1999 is another standout). A hot, dry summer, which happened to be the first of the drought years, led into a cooler period. Visiting Domaine Dujac in Burgundy years ago, I was told that 1990 was such a perfect vintage that even the Estate's dogs could have made the wine. Talented animals perhaps, but 1994 in Margaret River was that sort of year ­ no disrespect to any winemakers. Harvest was the first few weeks of April for the Cabernet, with the others occuring much earlier. Yields were low ­ a meagre 1.6 tonnes/acre for the Cabernet, 3.6 for Merlot and 3.1 for the Franc. Alcohol was 13% and the blend was 65% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 5% Franc. Just under two years in oak. Food pairing: Roast lamb and caramelised onions Fake factor: None Inside information: A vintage from the Gods. Someone up there Or try this: Watching Anthony Hopkins play Lear Final verdict: A wine that had Coonawarra winemakers ripping their hair out in frustration C U L L E N V I N E YA R D S 99 FINE Estate more of the slash of `murder mystery' red. It immediately announces itself as something a bit special. Average auction AU$ 200 price: Colour: Red cherry, slight mature notes around the rim.

97p 1994 Cullen Wines Reserve Cabernet Merlot 95p 1995 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot Average auction AU$ 200 price: Colour: Even darker and richer than the `standard'. Average market AU$ 200 price: Colour: A mature and enticing red. Nose: Cedary notes. Alluring spices and a mix Nose: A richer nose here. Simply cracking fruit. Cassis, leather, cloves, black cherries. Palate: Exchanges the finesse of the standard for extra density, concentration and layers of richness without losing anything and yet maintaining complete balance throughout. Utterly seamless. Cuddly tannins. Great length. Such life and promise. A glorious wine. Great value 2011 3 hours 1 hour The debate on the day was what on earth would this wine be like in twenty years? Rather special, I suspect. of red and dark berry fruits. If ever the expression, `the contents of an old lady's handbag' was to be applied to a wine, this is it. Bright acidity and as fresh as imaginable. Ethereal A sure bet 2011 2 hours 1 hour Has the life to ensure it will drink beautifully for many years, though it is close to its peak. Palate: Maturity is evident. More fleshy than some. Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Lingers beautifully before a slow, gentle fade. Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: the first time I have preferred the Reserve to the `standard'. And for the first time, this was not simply the `standard' embalmed with extra oak. Vanya identified the best patches of Cabernet in the vineyard and they were harvested later, on April 21, than the grapes for the `standard'. Only five barrels were made and the wine was much more Cabernet-dominant, at 85%. There was 10% Merlot and 5% Franc. The wine saw only 21 months in oak. Food pairing: Venison Fake factor: None Inside information: This, and the lesser pair of `93s, was offence to the Dujac dogs, this is a testament to the sublime skills of Vanya and her team. A triumph. Or try this: Sir Laurence Olivier playing King Lear? Final verdict: Great vintage or not, and without offering and 1994 (and 1990) as 10/10 vintages. As with the `94, there was effectively no rain between October and the harvest in March. Vanya believes that this wine confirms her view that if the vines are healthy and not overburdened, they will regulate themselves and achieve physiological ripeness easily ­ "and therefore the greatest fruit concentration". It was the fastest ripening season Cullen's have experienced but gave superb fruit. That self-regulation inevitably led to low cropping ­ 1.4 tonnes/acre for the Cabernet, 3.5 for the Merlot and 3.7 for the Franc. The blend was 70% Cabernet, 23% Merlot and 7% Franc. 13.5% alcohol. This was the first year without a Reserve wine. Vanya believed the quality was so good across the board it was pointless. Half the wine saw barrel fermentation and half saw extended skin maceration ­ for four weeks. The wine then saw 17 months in oak ­ just 20% new, 30% one-year and the rest in two-year-old barrels. Food pairing: Lamb shanks Fake factor: None Inside information: Andrew Cailliard MW rated both this year 96p 1999 Cullen Wines Cabernet Merlot Or try this: Virgin space travel Final verdict: Confirmation that dropping the Reserve was the right decision. Average market AU$ 150 price: Colour: Saturated crimson notes. Real depth here. Nose: This wine makes an immediate impact with richly flavoured complex aromas. Dark berries, especially blackberries, espresso coffee, leather, spices, chocolate, florals, cigar box notes ­ think Partagas 8-9-8s. of perfect balance, fine length and a seamless structure. The textural component is delightfully supple. are close to invisible. 95p 2001 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Average market AU$ 150 price: Colour: Red cherries, with possible hints of purple still evident. Palate: Everything in place to ensure a wine Nose: Chocolate, spices, black olives, florals, black cherries, mocha, cigar box notes, new leather, blackberries. Palate: Offering a more voluptuous, riper Aftertaste: Great length and perfect poise. Tannins In a nutshell: The grace of Federer, the excitement of Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Perfect buy 2011 3 hours 2 hours Glorious now but try to save a bottle of two for 2030, if you think you'll still be around. Nadal and the staying power of Djokovic. style than many vintages, yet just as complex, and with an underlying tightness still in place to ensure long ageing. Juicy acidity. Mouthwatering. soft and velvety. Yes, any day 2011 3 hours 2 hours A baby. Tasted blind, it would surely be impossible to define as a ten-year-old. Now until 2040. Aftertaste: Great intensity. Ripe tannins that are so In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: If wine could dance! Gwenda. They are not disgruntled pickers or abstemious neighbours but three tropical cyclones, each of which threatened to create havoc in the region. As I said, someone upstairs likes this place, as all three turned away and did nothing more than toss down a little intermittent rain. Sadly, the same could not be said further north, where the full force of the weather Gods was felt. Prior to this, January and February offered cool temperatures with southerly winds, followed by a lengthy warm period. Vanya described it as "the most glorious Indian summer, which lasted for weeks and produced one of the best red wine vintages of the decade". Yields were low ­ 1.9 tonnes/ acre for the Cabernet, 2.3 for Merlot and 2 for the Franc. Harvest was late February - early March for the Cabernet and March 4 for the others. The alcohol crept up to 14%. The oak regime was 18 months, with 50% new. This was the first vintage to see the addition of Petit Verdot, albeit only 1%, from the Mangan Vineyard. The remainder was 74% Cabernet, 20% Merlot and 5% Franc. Food pairing: The finest dark chocolate Fake factor: None Inside information: A wine nearly ruined by Elaine, Vance and cyclones (Steve, Norman and Olga), though the results were not so fortunate. Yields were minuscule but the wine was more impressive than it had the right to be, if more for younger drinking. In contrast, 2001 was the driest season in 126 years, but it led to "one of the most brilliant harvests... for ripening". The negative was Marri ­ the local name for the red gums. The conditions led to poor flowering in the gums, which led to increased bird damage in the vineyards. The blend was restricted to 75% Cabernet, 25% Merlot, both of which yielded just above 2.5 tonnes/acre, with harvesting throughout March. 14% alcohol. The wine spent 18 months in oak, with 40% of that new. Food pairing: Oxtail stew Fake factor: None Inside information: 2000 replicated 1999 with a series of Or try this: Imagine sitting in a dark, smoky club in Havana, in the fifties, listening to Celia Cruz. tag and a most worthy tribute to the woman who did so much for wine here. Or try this: Directing the captain to swing the yacht around to Monte Carlo for lunch. Final verdict: The first wine under the `Diana Madeline' 100 Final verdict: The complete package FINE

96p 2004 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline 94p 2007 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline mocha, violets and the very last vestiges of a whiff of sweet oak. Palate: Everything in place. A truly superb wine. Impeccably balanced. Has a thrilling vibrancy. Chocolate, mocha, cassis, cloves, black fruits. A whiff of campfire aromas and warm, fresh soil. complexity. Full-flavoured with bright acidity. Palate: Ripe, supple and seductive. Early Aftertaste: Cushiony, velvet tannins. Longer than a Fidel speech. In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: On this evidence, long live biodynamics. For your children's eighteenth birthday 2011 3 hours 2 hours It surely has thirty to forty years ahead of it, if you can keep your hands off it. Aftertaste: Infinite length, soft, silky tannins. In a nutshell: The first in an extraordinary trio of wines, with more to come if the reports regarding 2010 are accurate ­ barrel samples suggest they are. Caillard rates all four vintages 10/10. Other regions must stick pins in Margaret River dolls. dry months of January and February. A hot March hastened the ripening, but with biodynamics now firmly in place this seemed to benefit the grapes, which achieved optimum ripeness. Yields were 2.48 tonnes/acre for Cabernet, harvested the last week of February and first week of March, 3.36 for Merlot and 2.85 for Franc, both of which were harvested late in March. The final blend was 83% Cabernet, 12% Merlot and 3% Franc. Various parcels were fermented on skins for periods between 8 and 29 days. Then, 18 months in French oak barriques, 51% of which were new. Food pairing: Game pie Fake factor: None Inside information: Good rainfall preceded the cool and Or try this: The Three Tenors at their peak Final verdict: Has Australia made a better Cabernet than this? disappointing `06, and the vintage that Vanya saw as providing a strong indication as to how they might fare with climate change. There was heat aplenty but rain at the right time ensured "outstanding quality". Vanya was delighted ­ there won't be so many sleepless nights about the potential devastation of climate change now. Yields were very low ­ 1.84 tonnes/acre for Cabernet, picked in the second week of March; 2.1 for Merlot, picked February 22; 2.34 for Franc, picked March 7; and a miserable 0.9 for Petit Verdot on March 13. The final blend was 84% Cabernet, 8% Merlot and 4% each of Petit Verdot and Franc. Alcohol is 14%. The wine spent just 14 months in oak, 48% new, 40% one-year and 12% two years. Buy or not: The price is still a pretty decent Tasted: 2011 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: 2015 to 2040 Food pairing: Lamb medallions Fake factor: None Inside information: An extreme change from the cold and 95p 2009 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Or try this: Hoyo de Monterrey Edicion Limitada Pyramide 2003. Average market AU$ 150 price: Colour: Still enough purple surrounding the crimson to confirm its youth. Final verdict: Vanya dubs it "one of the greatest DM's". No argument. Nose: Dark berries, smoked meats, minerals, violets, plum, cassis, espresso coffee. generosity and richness of 2007 and the ethereal elegance of the 2008. The best of both. Supple, focussed, linear and beautifully balanced. Sublime. deceptive. Incredibly persistent. 95p 2008 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Palate: Walks the fine line between the Average market AU$ 150 price: Colour: Bright crimson. Nose: Fragrant, rose petals, violets, blackfruits, cedary. Delightfully perfumed. `07 ­ the exuberance of that wine replaced by finesse and elegance. Regally balanced. Thrilling stuff. invisible. Great persistence. Aftertaste: The cashmere-like tannins are so In a nutshell: Good enough to pip the 2004. Vanya's Mozart vintage is on song. This wine is as good as any they have made. 2011 5 hours 2 hours How long have you got? 2015 to 2040. After that, anyone's guess. Palate: Chalk and cheese compared to the Aftertaste: Gossamer tannins, so silky as to be In a nutshell: What a wine! So much elegance in an Aussie wine at one time is almost unimaginable. the price Buy or not: Why wait? Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Buy or not: As it gets older ­ it gets better, so will Tasted: 2011 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: 2014 to 2040 Food pairing: Game pie Fake factor: None Inside information: 2008 is Cary Grant to 2007's Errol the ideal base for this vintage. The early months of 2009 saw a small amount of rain, though just enough, and no unduly hot weather ­ a total of just four hours where the mercury climbed above 33C. Vanya called it the "dream vintage". There was some crop loss due to Looper caterpillars but the red gums had a fine year also, managing to keep the birds at bay. They were replaced by kangaroos, who acquired a taste for the grapes. Netting and proper fencing is now mandatory. As a vintage, this was as good as it gets. Cabernet was harvested between March 10 and 30 at 2.03 tonnes/acre; Merlot on March 11 at just 0.87; Malbec on March 2 at 1.32; and Franc on March 9 at 1.6. Alcohol was just 12.5%. The final blend was 88% Cabernet, 6% Franc, 4% Merlot and 2% Malbec. It spent 13 months in French oak, 55% of which was new. Food pairing: Braised belly of pork Fake factor: None Inside information: Rain in the later parts of 2008 provided Or try this: Front row at a Springsteen concert, just as he breaks into `Jungleland'. Flynn. Plenty of rain towards the end of 2007 set the scene for this vintage but it did lead to the `splicing of some vine leaves', which resulted in small berries and lower yields. Warmth had arrived by mid-December and ensured a classic year, if less obviously generous than some. This was the first year the newly acquired `Mistral' machine was in use ­ it assists in removing infertile berries, leaves and various other matter. Vanya believes it has contributed to "cleaner fruit and finer tannins". This vintage was a Cabernet Merlot blend only (86/14%) with just 12.5% alcohol. The Cabernet was harvested throughout March with yields of 2.53 tonnes/acre. The Merlot was picked on February 29 with yields of just 0.78 tonnes/acre. Final verdict: A couple of cases of this or a single bottle of First Growth? A wine like this must terrify Bordeaux. Or try this: Ferrari California Red Final verdict: A wonder from Down Under! C U L L E N V I N E YA R D S 101 FINE Estate Average market AU$ 150 price: Colour: Dark reds, crimsons. Nose: Black cherries, hints of fresh truffles, Average market AU$ 150 price: Colour: Red/purples, opaque. Nose: As rich as Grandma's plum pudding.

Laughably Tasty Rice Text: Pekka Nuikki R ice is one of the most common and everyday foods enjoyed by mankind. Nearly one half of the world's population use it as the main source of their daily nourishment. Rice is modest in appearance and flavour, so it is no wonder that on my travels around the world I had never come across a fine dining restaurant that based its marketing and menu around the ingredient. Until now. I am on the island of Madeira, in its capital city, Funchal, and the best restaurant here is called Riso. 102 FINE

love rice and especially its derivative, risotto. I could easily justify a weekend getaway in northern Italy just tasting the region's truffle risotto. The reasons for visiting Madeira, however, are different. Madeira is known for its natural diversity and lushness, and of course for its excellent Madeira wines. The islands' cuisine is not f a reason to visit in itself, despite the fact that they are located in the North Atlantic, some 600 kilometres from the North African shore, in the middle of a rich and diverse supply of fish. However, I justified my trip to Madeira based on wines and, somewhat surprisingly, rice. Restaurant Riso is located right at the seashore, or rather, on the sea. You enter via a modest door reminiscent of a home's front door, and the first impression is that of a very typical dining area, with a bar and small tables covered in gingham cloths. From street level, however, you go down to a low terrace resting on a small rock shelf. Beneath it the sea plays its endless music. The view is breathtaking, and is continuously accompanied by the sound of waves breaking on the shore. The terrace has ten or I so tables, whose white tablecloths flap gently in the warm breeze. On one side, the terrace is completely open to the sea, with no walls or windows. It is like stepping onto the set of a 1940s French film. Before asking for the menu, I feel compelled to ask the waiter about the history of this fascinating place. "Riso is on one of the oldest streets in Funchal, Rua de Santa Maria. The building used to belong to the Grand Western Telegraph, and the old façade has been preserved, but the interior has been completely redesigned by architects Giano Gonçalves and Leo Marote. For nearly a century between 1878 and 1968, this was known as the cable building, as it housed the end of an underwater cable that connected Europe with America. Opposite Riso is one of Funchal's oldest churches, built by popular demand in 1523 once the city had recovered from the plague. It was rebuilt in 1768, so we really are in an extraordinary historic environment here." Riso's menu is not long but it is rich in rice. Master Chef Fausto Airoldi is one of Portugal's most renowned chefs. He has been Chef of the Year several times and has also captained the Portuguese team in several international cooking competitions. Rice is one of his passions, and Riso is an excellent showcase for it. "This house, entirely dedicated to rice, offers a selection of rice dishes from all the corners of the world. We combine various rice varieties with high-quality ingredients to create innovative main courses and smaller dishes, as well as the more traditional courses. We listen to what our customers want. Our philosophy is to offer a place to have a different sort of experience while enjoying a first-rate kitchen and service in a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere. We want every customer at Riso to be treated to a moment of pampering and to share in our special ambience," Airoldi explains. The dinner itself is close to perfection. A rich truffle risotto enjoyed with champagne and the sound of the roaring ocean forms an unforgettable sensory experience. The wine list meets my expectations, consisting primarily of the best local wines. "In terms of wines, our strategy is to offer excellent Portuguese wines at affordable prices. Our list comprises 70 white, red and rosé wines, carefully selected to complement each of the dishes on our menu. The brands range from well-known, classic Portuguese wineries to more recent arrivals on the market and unique Madeiran table wines. We also offer fine wines by the glass, which is still uncommon in Madeira. Finally, we also have a Wine Cellar list, with our most special and refined wines," explains the sommelier. The courses we enjoy during our dinner consist of rice coupled with fresh local ingredients. The waiter's explanation of the dishes is somewhat unusual. "Riso's concept is to use rice as a basis for its dishes, combining flavours from around the world but using local produce. The idea is to adapt to the location's taste profile, which makes the use of local raw materials important. We choose products from the island whenever we can. If we can't, we import them from continental Portugal. If what we need is impossible to source from either place, we turn to European suppliers. At the moment, our scallops come from Norway, the Vialone rice from an Italian producer, the Thai rice from a Portuguese importer of Asian products, and so on." After dinner, I lean contentedly against the seaside balustrade of the terrace and look over the waves. Riso has kept its promise quite literally, because I am filled with satisfied laughter as I thank the head chef and his staff. > (Riso means laughter in Portuguese. In Italian it means rice.) Riso Risottoria del Mundo 274 Rua Santa Maria, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal RISO 103 FINE Editors Pick

Text: Essi Avellan MW In the summer of 2010, news was received which stirred the wine world. The wreck of a treasure-carrying ship, loaded with champagne, was found deep in the sea in Finnish waters. And it wasn't just any champagne, but perhaps the oldest surviving champagne in the world. Speculation was rife regarding the producer, age and quantity of the bottles and it only increased 104 FINE

Photographs: Visit Åland as the weeks went by, as very sparse yet appetite-whetting information was provided to the media. Finally, the local government on the Åland Islands invited a group of reporters to hear the story of the bottles and the plans for their future. FINE was there and we were among those lucky enough to taste a drop of these historic findings. C H A M PAG N E T R E A S U R E 105 F I N E Tr e a s u r e

he gleaming new Alandica cultural and congress centre at the east harbour of Mariehamn begins to fill up well ahead of time. International TV crews colonise the large auditorium. The start of the press conference is amicably awaited by the Finnish News Agency, the Finnish Broadcasting Corporation, Swedish and French state televisions, Itar-Tass, the Financial Times and Le Monde. The Åland Islands have probably never attracted such a slew of media before. The atmosphere is buzzing when the divers who found the wreck and hauled up the treasure, Anders Näsman and Christian Ekström, take the stage. We hear a detailed account of how every diver's dream came true for these men. The ship laden with valuables was probably sailing towards Finland's western coast when it was hit by a rough autumn storm on the old sea route, far in the outer archipelago of Åland. The divers found the place thanks to a tip-off by a local fisherman. They discovered the wreck at a depth of 47 metres. The twenty-metre schooner was externally in good condition, lying neatly on its side with both masts still standing. The divers carefully examined the wreck, finding items such as navigation instruments and crockery. The real surprise was revealed in the ship's stern, however, where stacks of unbroken sparkling wine bottles lay on a bed of straw. Hands shaking with anticipation, the divers brought one bottle up to the surface and uncorked it, mainly to check whether there was still champagne in it or mostly seawater. Ekström took his first swig directly from the bottle and there was no end to the divers' jubilation when the contents turned out to be wine. Next, the remaining crew of the diving vessel had a chance to marvel at the discovery in a plastic cup. The rest of the bottle was quickly taken ashore and local sommelier Ella Grüssner of CromwellMorgan was asked to evaluate the contents. T After this, the local Åland government quickly took over and diving around the wreck was forbidden. Prior to the raising of the bottles and other items, they were carefully documented by the Åland Board of Antiquities. The raising itself took two weeks of sixteen-hour diving days. The divers' account of this long diving operation gives an indication of the extent of the treasure. Still, a flutter passed through the audience when it was announced that as many as 168 bottles were recovered. Finland is in possession of an enormous champagne treasure. 106 FINE

ClICquoT's YEllow surprIsE Next, a bottle was sent for analysis to France, where experts confirmed that the wine was champagne and dated the bottles to the first decades of the nineteenth century. Due to the anchor logo found on the metal caps of the corks, the bottles were first thought to belong to Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, but Clicquot's Cellar Master Dominique Demarville disproved that theory. Eventually, the producer was identified as Juglar, which has since merged into Champagne Jacquesson. Veuve Clicquot continued to be closely involved in the project, however, and sent a representative to the grand press event and to the preceding opening and recorking operation of ten bottles. To everyone's great surprise, some bottles of Veuve Clicquot were discovered among the Juglars. It was logical for this to be the case, as the Russian and Baltic markets were important for the house of Clicquot in the early 1800s. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, owner of Champagne Jacquesson, says that Memmie Jacquesson's strategy was also to head for the eastern regions instead of the highly competitive British market. According to Chiquet, the shape of the bottles indicates the late 1820s, though probably not later than the 1829 vintage. It was in that year that Juglar merged into Jacquesson and production ceased under the Juglar brand. Veuve Clicquot, on the other hand, estimates that its bottles are from the early 1830s. The world's oldest surviving champagne bottles are Perrier-Jouët from 1825, and they can still be found in that estate's cellars. Therefore this is not the oldest champagne stash in the world, but its size makes it all the more interesting. Jacquesson's Jean-Hervé Chiquet and Veuve Clicquot's François Hautekeur serving Richard Juhlin the first sip 107 C H A M PAG N E T R E A S U R E F I N E Tr e a s u r e

A Drop oF HIsTorY The event's climax is the arrival of champagne expert Richard Juhlin onstage to taste and qualify both the Juglar and Veuve Clicquot champagnes. After that, some journalists are allowed to experience these historic champagnes with their own senses. Those of us who have received a golden ticket are ushered into the crossfire of flashlights and TV cameras. I taste the Juglar first. The deep-brown colour is very clear. The strong aroma is just a touch smoky but pleasant, and still fruity. The extremely concentrated taste is crisp and streamlined, perfectly lively although there are no bubbles left. Time stops and the media circus around me fades into a background hum. The wine's sweetness reminds me how different champagnes were in the past and how lucky I am to taste a drop of history like this. Next, I am handed the Veuve Clicquot, and the only thing I can think about is that this champagne is actually a contemporary of the Yellow Widow herself, Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin. I have partaken of the same champagne as the world-famous widow, who died more than 140 years ago! The champagne is very strong and rustic, with aromas of burnt rubber and baked and honeyed notes in the background. The taste is just as lively as that of its contemporary, the Juglar, and it amazes me with its freshness and agelessness. an escort of personnel from Moët-Hennessy, the bottle flies to Paris and then to a place of honour in its home cellar. At Veuve Clicquot it is received by Cellar Master Dominique Demarville, Chairman Stéphane Baschiera, Mayor of the City of Reims Adeline Hazan, and dozens of reporters. BuBBlY AuCTIoN wEEkEND IN ÅlAND that were established over 150 years ago. In the summer of 2011, the world media again gathered in Åland after being informed by the Government of Åland that two of these exclusive shipwreck champagnes would be auctioned on June 3. They are fortunate enough to witness a thrilling auction, run by Acker Merrall & Condit, the world's biggest wine auction house. The first of the shipwrecked bottles to go under the hammer is the Juglar, and, after a number of bids, it raises an impressive 24 000 euros. Next up is the Veuve Clicquot, and a ferocious bidding war results in a world-record price for a single bottle of champagne ­ a staggering 30 000 euros. A phone bidder from Singapore, Ravi Viswanathan, is the lucky winner, and he gives the wine to his wife to celebrate their 10th wedding anniversary. It remains to be seen what will happen in June 2012, when the Government of Åland plans to release another batch of bottles for an auction. Whatever the result, the media will no doubt be alerted, as everyone is interested in what will happen to the treasures of the deep. > A further appraisal and corking event held by experts in December 2010 offered a further surprise: a handful of Heidsieck & Co "Monopole" bottles were found among the Juglars and Veuve Clicquots, so the champagne treasure from the deep now contains samples from three champagne houses News of the unique Nordic tasting experience is broadcast in France, the UK, Greece and Australia, among other places. Next to celebrate is the Champagne region, as one bottle of the historic Veuve Clicquot is returned to its hometown of Reims, in order to complete its near 180-year journey. Travelling in the passenger cabin under special licence with rETurN oF THE wANDErEr 108 FINE

`The quality remains long after the price is forgotten.' 110 FINE

Flying Snoop Dogg and 50 Cent Text: Pekka Nuikki THE captivates Lady THAT The same forces that gave rise to some of the most notable wines of the New World also gave birth to Rolls-Royce. Charles Rolls aspired to build a motor car that would surpass the foreign automobiles which dominated the sales catalogues of local dealers in his native England. Beyond that, however, he wanted to etch his name in automotive history just as Dom Pérignon has done in the world of champagne and Rothschild in the world of luxury wines. Rolls might have failed miserably in both endeavours were it not for Henry Royce's exasperation at the unreliability of a French automobile he owned, a vexation that inspired Royce to manufacture the first Royce with his very own hands. It took two Britons to give the automotive world a model which evokes unrivalled admiration. The vehicle created by the pair exudes a shamelessly aristocratic air, boasts craftsmanship of dazzling quality, and today is sought after by rap stars and royals alike. R O L L S - R OYC E 111 FINE Lifestyle

A career in the fast lane cut short Charles Stewart Rolls, the blue-blooded and carefree son of Lord and Lady Llangattock, was a race-car enthusiast from an early age, long before Rolls and Royce joined forces. He procured his first car from France, but the Peugeot 3/4hp was so unreliable that it took him a whole day to complete the 120 km drive from his home to Monmouth­most of the time being spent on the side of the road repairing the tricky vehicle. In 1902, he founded a car dealership of his own, C.S. Rolls & Company. Though he was greatly disappointed that his London firm dealt in imported vehicles only, his business quickly developed into the most successful motor car enterprise in the country. Rolls subsequently develdevel oped a keen interest in aeroplanes. He was a close friend of the Wright brothers and the first perper son to fly across the English Channel and back. His successful career in the fast lane was suddenly cut short on July 12, 1910, when at the age of 32 he died in a tragic air crash at Bournemouth, becoming the first Briton to be killed in an aeroaero nautical nautical accident. Rolls was perhaps the most skilful race car driver of his time. His record includes so stunning a win of the first 1,000-mile reliability tritri al ever organised in England that a special gold medal was struck in his honour. A year later, he set a new world lane speed record of 150km/h. Rolls subsequently developed a keen interest in aeroplanes. He was a close friend of the Wright brothers and the first person to fly across the Engspent on the side of the road repairing the tricky vehicle. In 1902, he founded a car dealership of his own, C.S. Rolls & Company. Though he was greatly disappointed that his London firm dealt in imported vehicles only, his business quickly developed into the most successful motor car enterprise in the country. Rolls was perhaps the most skilful race car driver of his time. His record includes so stunning a win of the first 1000-mile reliability trial ever organised in England that a special gold medal was struck in his honour. A year later, he set a new world lane speed record of 150km/h. Rolls subsequently developed a keen interest in aeroplanes. He was a close friend of the Wright brothers and the first person to fly across the Eng- Flying Lady captivates lish Channel and back. His successful career in the fast lane was suddenly cut short on July 12, 1910, when at the age of 32 he died in a tragic air crash in Bournemouth, becoming the first Briton to be killed in an aeronautical accident. 112 FINE

Opposites attract The son of a miller, Frederick Henry Royce was selling newspapers before he was 10. From his fa father, he inherited an entrepreneurial spirit and a positive attitude towards work. Rolls and Royce clearly came from very different backgrounds. Royce found his first real job as an apprentice at the Great Northern years, Royce's business grew into a public limited company and he became a very wealthy man. In his early twenties, he acquired a two-cylinder 10-horsepower Decauville and found himself annoyed with it in the same way Rolls had been with French-made cars: the car's performance was depressingly erratic. During the short drive from home "Rolls-Royce has always been about pace, performance and style," says Ian Cameron, who led the design team. "For the Coupé design we have emphasised the dynamism. The driving dynamics of the Phantom have always come as a surprise to customers and the Coupé builds on this visually as well as dynamically, via hard engineering changes. Its design adds drama to the outstanding engineering and drivability that are fundamentals of Rolls-Royce cars. We could have simply bolted a hard-top roof to the Drophead in order to make the Phantom Coupé. After all, the convertible is an incredibly well mannered car that performs impeccably. But this would not have been the right thing to do. The Coupé and the Drophead are two distinct cars, with different personalities and specific performance characteristics." Railway works, where he swiftly mastered the basics of mechanics, proved to be a natural engineer, and quickly ascended through the ranks. At the age of 21, he was working for the Liverpool Electric Supply Company. When it went bankrupt, Royce found himself unemployed and decided to set up in business in Manchester making electric light fittings and motors. In just ten to work, he had to make numerous stops as the engine repeatedly overheated and the steering gave out. It was only a matter of weeks before Royce became so disillusioned with the car that he decided to design and build a working car himself. Thus the first 10hp which started easily was born. Royce built it in the spring of 1904. R O L L S - R OYC E 113 FINE Lifestyle

Test drive gone right It was Royce's friend, Henry Edmunds, who introduced Rolls and the C.S. Rolls & Company to Royce. Rolls was selling fine French cars and his business was booming, but the idea of marketing a very high-quality English automobile appealed to him greatly. The cars manufactured by Royce had two cylinders, but Rolls preferred three or four. Edmunds knew from experience that Royce's car was highly sophisticated, solidly built and that Rolls would approve of it. However, Royce refused to travel to London to see Rolls, so Edmunds convinced Rolls to go to Manchester. In 1904, the two men met at the Midland Hotel for lunch and then took a test drive. Rolls was impressed with the car and with Royce's character. Though he himself was neither a mechanic nor an engineer, Rolls undoubtedly observed these qualifications in Royce, who had built the car they were in ­ a car that was even 114 FINE

better than Rolls had hoped initially. With the right kind of encouragement and support, Royce would be able to produce machines immeasurably better than the one they were in. After returning to London, Rolls announced that he had found the world's most proficient motor engineer and sent his business partner, Claude Johnson, to evaluate the car and seal the contract. Soon papers were signed, guaranteeing Rolls exclusive sales rights to the cars assembled by Royce. As business partners, Rolls and Royce were a dream team. Their cooperation rapidly gave birth to a host of new models, the first two of which were exhibited at a Paris car show later in 1904. The contract between the Rolls and Royce companies was signed the day before Christmas Eve 1904. Their cars thereafter bore the name Rolls-Royce, the order of the partners' names having been determined by a draw of lots. The new company's ambition was simple: to manufacture the best cars in the world. R O L L S - R OYC E 115 FINE Lifestyle

102EX ­ PHANTOM EXPERIMENTAL ELECTRIC In 2011 Rolls-Royce Motor Cars presented the 102EX, a car that represents one of the most significant initiatives taken by the company in recent years. It is the world's first battery electric vehicle for the ultra-luxury segment and continues a tradition of experimental cars running through the model generations. "Today Rolls-Royce Motor Cars begins an exploration into alternative drive-trains, seeking clarity on which technology may be suitable to drive Rolls-Royce motor cars of the future. The alternative drive-train we choose must deliver an authentic RollsRoyce experience. It must be a technology that is right for our customers, our brand and which sets us on a sound footing for a sustainable future. That is why this project is so important." ­ CEO Torsten Müller-Ötvös With the 102EX, also known as the Phantom Experimental Electric (EE), it is the company's intention to carefully test the opinions and reactions to alternative drivetrain options of a range of stakeholders including owners, enthusiasts, members of the public and the media. "It's a credible design concept that perfectly complements the experimental nature of the car, exploring options in light, space and use of materials. Had we changed the overall aesthetic, the concept would have lost credibility; our audience would assume it was simply a styling exercise. The reality is that this is an experimental vehicle in its truest sense, challenging perceptions, emotions and values ­ as well as exploring alternative drive-train technology." ­ Ian Cameron, Chief Designer Rolls-Royce Motor Cars 116 FINE

Rolls-Royce: An enduring reputation as the world's most prestigious luxury product The oldest Rolls-Royce still in use was built in 1904. It was the fourth car that Charles Rolls and Henry Royce produced. Last year in England it sold at auction, going to a private collector ­ after frantic bidding ­ for a record price of nearly five million euros, making it the most expensive Rolls-Royce ever. This exquisite automobile is a two-seat convertible with a ten-horsepower engine. Younger by a few years is the first six-cylinder, the Silver Ghost. It was generally regarded as the most technologically advanced car of its time, so it comes as no surprise that the Silver Ghost was manufactured for eighteen consecutive years without interruption. Legend has it that when Royce, who had fled to the French Riviera to escape the dreary English climate, was being rushed back home in a Silver Ghost for a medical operation, he sprang up from his seat upon observing that his convoy had been overtaken by another car. "Don't worry, it is one of our own," he is said to have remarked, satisfied. In 1916, The Times reported that "the cars have run over thousands of miles of the roughest desert, and the complete absence of engine trouble is a triumph for British workmanship." Sir Henry Royce died in 1933 at the age of 70. He did not witness the transformation of the R engine into the Merlin, which was used in allied aircraft such as the Spitfire, Hurricane, Lancaster and Mustang in World War II. Some 166 000 were manufactured at the then-new factory in Crewe. Royce worked until the last days of his life. He left behind his plans for the V12 Phantom III engine, a masterpiece which his successors completed for production in 1936. Phantom Royce established his approach to his work early in his career. In response to a friend's recommendation that the only way to succeed would be to build hundreds of reliable cars for sale to ordinary people at a reasonable price, Royce said he could not do that ­ he could manufacture nothing but the world's best car, whatever the cost, for people who value quality and are willing and wealthy enough to pay for it. Although the motor car eventually became mass-produced like every other consumer good, the reputation Rolls-Royce had achieved continued beyond the end of World War II. Standardised factory-made steel bodies and chassis replaced unique workshop models. "Bespoke is the jewel in our crown, the perfect complement to our luxury product line-up," explained Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars CEO. "Customers expect a Rolls-Royce Phantom to be tailored to their individual desires and our team of talented designers and craftspeople are more than happy to deliver." The Flying Englishman World War I stimulated great aviation advances in the early 20th century. It contributed to the invention of the Rolls-Royce's Eagle, Falcon and Condor aircraft engines in 1914. Moreover, Rolls-Royce motor engines were installed in many military vehicles, such as armoured cars deployed in Egypt, and their fame spread. First built in 1946, the Silver Wraith was the earliest post-war Rolls-Royce model. The 1949 Silver Dawn took the United States by storm, featuring a 4 257cc in-line six cylinder engine with overhead inlet and side exhaust valves a structure modelled after Royce's first two cylinder engine of 1904. In the 1950s, the focus of Rolls-Royce production once again turned to bespoke bodies. The Phantom IV was designed solely with royals and heads of state in mind, but anyone with enough money and confidence could purchase a Phantom V or VI. Silver Cloud, Elvis first RR, was available either on a simple welded steel box section chassis or custom-built by hand on a different chassis. The Silver Shadow, which intrigued stars such as Freddie Mercury, took more than ten years to design, but the work paid off when the car entered the market in 1965. The technology employed introduced a whole new generation of cars. Of all the Rolls-Royce models, the Silver Shadow has the highest sales. In the late 1990s, severe downtrends and mergers cast a blight on the entire automotive industry and forced Rolls-Royce to make changes. Two major German car manufacturers were eager to get their hands on the renowned company. Volkswagen had a strong foothold on the production side, but BMW, which had supplied Rolls-Royce engines for quite some time, had bought rights to the Rolls-Royce name. The competition ended in an effective draw in 1998, when Volkswagen got the well-known Rolls-Royce factories in Crewe but had to settle for Bentley cars, giving up Rolls-Royce production in early 2003. Since January 1, 2003, Rolls-Royces have been built by BMW. To celebrate the rights transfer from VW, BMW launched the legendary Phantom, a model capable of accelerating to 100km/h in just 5.9 seconds. BMW premiered the 2.5-tonne newcomer at a Detroit auto show in late 2003 and sold 479 Phantoms in the first year of production. Rolls-Royce Motor Cars reached record sales results for 2011. 3 538 cars were sold globally during the year, a 31 per cent increase on the 2010 total of 2 711 cars. "We had an outstanding year in 2011 and we should take a moment to reflect on this Great British success story," said Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Chief Executive Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars. R O L L S - R OYC E 117 FINE Lifestyle

Spirit of Ecstasy The history of the world's most famed hood ornament is shrouded in romance and secrecy. The ornament's creator, sculptor Charles Sykes, described the piece wistfully as "a graceful little goddess, the Spirit of Ecstasy, who has selected road travel as her supreme delight and alighted on the prow of a Rolls-Royce motor car to revel in the freshness of the air and the musical sound of her fluttering draperies." The very first Rolls-Royces did not sport a hood ornament. By 1910, however, the company was concerned that some owners were affixing "inappropriate" ornaments to their cars. Claude Johnson, then managing director of Rolls-Royce Motor Cars, was asked to see to the commissioning of something more suitably dignified and graceful. He turned to Charles Sykes, a young artist friend and a graduate of London's Royal College of Art, who had already sculpted a personal emblem for the bonnet of the RollsRoyce Silver Ghost belonging to Lord Montagu of Beaulieu. That figurine was christened `The Whisper'. The model for the emblem was Eleanor Thornton, Sykes's secretary and secret love. (Their love was to remain hidden, limited to their friends, for more than a decade.) Sykes' brief from Claude Johnson was to evoke something of the spirit of the mythical beauty, Nike, whose graceful image was admired in The Louvre, but Sykes was not persuaded. He felt that a more feminine representation might be more apt. It was again Miss Thornton whom he had in mind. Sykes chose to modify `The Whisper' into a model he named `The Spirit of Speed'. Claude Johnson came up with a more fitting name: `The Spirit of Ecstasy'. She has also come to be known as `The Flying Lady'. The future of this tiny 18cm figure was set. She was cast in bronze and has been manufactured in large numbers since 1911. Today, the Spirit of Ecstasy stands 6.7cm and is attached to a base for reasons of safety. If struck, a springloaded mechanism instantly retracts it into the radiator shell. "The Spirit of Ecstasy is perhaps the most famous automotive icon, gracefully adorning the prow of Rolls-Royce models past and present," said Torsten Müller-Ötvös, CEO Rolls-Royce Motor Cars. "She was an inspiration for the founding fathers of our great company, as well as for owners and enthusiasts through the generations. Today her image continues to inspire and drive those of us who are fortunate enough to work for this unique brand, making the world's most exclusive and desirable cars." 118 FINE

Celebrity front seat Throughout automotive history, Rolls-Royce has been one of the luxuries most sought-after by celebrities. It used to be that many who indulged in a Rolls-Royce or two liked to be chauffeured around one big city or another, but an increasing number, including rap stars 50 Cent, Snoop Dogg, Jay-Z and Nelly, are sitting comfortably in the front doing the actual driving. The traditionally inclined, who like to sip chilled Cristal in the back seat, include the Sultan of Brunei, who owns a fleet of 350 different Rolls-Royces, and Donald Trump, whose new white Phantom was a wedding present from basketball player Shaquille O'Neil. Jennifer Lopez got an RR from Ben Affleck when the two were engaged, David Beckham received one from his wife Victoria on his birthday, and Oscar-winning actor Denzel Washington treated himself to one when he turned 50. Oprah Winfrey surprised Stevie Wonder with a black Phantom in appreciation of Stevie's performance of `Happy Birthday' at her 50th birthday party. Nick Cannon treated his pregnant wife Mariah Carey to a new Rolls Royce Phantom last Christmas. Lucky girl! Simon Cowell, of American Idol fame, used to have a soft spot for Bentleys, but when the Maybach came on the market, Simon rushed to place an order for one. Meanwhile, when his beloved Bentley was being serviced at a Hollywood shop, Cowell was given a Rolls-Royce Phantom a replacement car. Cowell instantly fell for the vehicle and telephoned Rolls-Royce. He was told that the Beverly Hills dealer had some in stock, including one in the colours he prefers: Piano Black paint and a Triple Black interior (black leather seats, black carpets and a black lacquered wood dashboard). Simon cancelled his Maybach order on the spot and bought an extra black Phantom for his London apartment. When Cowell was Punk'd, Ashton Kutcher pretended to have the Phantom stolen. The name Rolls-Royce is legendary. Its reputation is unique. The very essence of Rolls-Royce has always been a steadfast commitment to the production of superbly refined cars of impeccable craftsmanship, each capturing the owner's individual tastes, aspirations and desires. In a Rolls-Royce motor car, modern technology and timeless workmanship combine to produce the most famous and admired luxury item the world has to offer today. > Creating a strong identity for the Phantom was essential, says chief designer Ian Cameron: "Our priority was to create a car that was obviously a Rolls-Royce from any angle, even if the Spirit of Ecstasy or the famous grille could not be seen." R O L L S - R OYC E 119 FINE Lifestyle

There is something magical about walking into a favorite restaurant carrying your own wines. It's a combination of emotions, all of which combine to set your senses tingling. You have in mind exactly which dishes on the menu will marry well with the bottles that you are cradling so carefully as you enter the restaurant. You recall when you acquired that dusty combination of a magnum of Lynch-Bages 1959 and standard bottle of Grange 1976 at auction. It was several years ago. There is this familiar feeling of tension as the expectation of the aroma and flavor of exquisite older wines from great vintages is tempered by the possibility that they may not have survived in prime condition. But they are your choices, bottles you bid for in competition with others, and have laid down: your special home guests now for some years. Tonight is the night. You are filled with a here is something magical about walking into a favourite restaurant carrying sense of accomplishment. No one else will have these wines at this restaurant tonight. In fact probably no one your own wines. It's a combination of emowill have these wines anywhere in the country tonight! You are less confident about the "sticky" wine, carefully tions, all of which combine to set your senses tingling. You have in mind exactly which gripped in the fancy three compartment wine carrier. It's a 1947 Vouvray. Huet's Le Haut ­ Lieu. Certainly dishes on the menu will marry well with the one of the wonders of the wine world. A gift from a friend a long time ago, who carelessly said that he had been given it himself from a relative who didn't know what to do with it and had kept it in a cupboard ( use the bottles that you are cradling so carefully as closet if for US publication). This did not bode well in terms of optimal storage, and a carefully managed set of you enter the restaurant. You recall when you acquired that dusty combination of a expectations is in order. I'm very fortunate to say that these were my wines, and although the Grange was fading, it was doing so grace- magnum of Lynch-Bages 1959 and standard fully, and they all performed beautifully on the night. However, the pleasure was heightened significantly by the bottle of Grange 1976 at auction. It was sevrestaurant ­ one of my favorite BYOs in New York City. And one of a handful of fine eateries that genuinely eral years ago. There is this familiar feeling of tension as the expectation of the aroma welcomes BYO. How does the restaurant enhance the enjoyment of BYO? Firstly, they welcome it. I think it's true to say they encourage it. Excellent glassware is provided. They offer to decant. The bottles are treated and flavour of exquisite older wines from great vintages is tempered by the possibility with equal respect as the best on their own wine list. The sommelier and manager express real interest and excitement in the bottles coming through their door. Other diners are overtly curious. On the night in question that they may not have survived in prime condition. But they are your choices, bottles I was simply one of a joyful circus of diners who had thought long and hard about which bottles to take that you bid for in competition with others, and night to entertain themselves, their friends ­ and many other diners who would crane their necks to see what have laid down: your special house guests treasures were in the house that evening. The vibe is always palpable. The place is transformed from mere restaurant individual groups of diners, to an all-out Supper Club. A happy restaurant is usually a full restaurant. for some years. Tonight is the night. You are Full restaurants are profitable. It's a virtuous cycle of events. Their policy should be called BYOP. Bring Your filled with a sense of accomplishment. No one else will have these wines at this restauOwn Pleasure. So why is there still so much resistance to BYO in the restaurant world? T Philip Hedger 120 FINE

In Praise of BYO rant tonight. In fact, there is a distinct probably no one will have these wines anywhere in the country tonight! You are less confident about the `sticky' wine, which is carefully gripped in the fancy three-compartment wine carrier. It's a Huet 1947 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu ­ certainly one of the wonders of the wine world. A gift from a friend a long time ago, who carelessly said that he himself had been given it from a relative who didn't know what to do with it and had kept it in a cupboard. This did not bode well in terms of optimal storage, and a carefully managed set of expectations is in order. I'm very fortunate to say that these were my wines, and although the Grange was fading, it was doing so gracefully and they all performed beautifully on the night. However, the pleasure was heightened significantly by the restaurant ­ one of my favourite BYOs in New York City, and one of only a handful of fine eateries that genuinely welcomes BYO. How does the restaurant enhance the enjoyment of BYO? Firstly, they welcome it; indeed, I think it's true to say they encourage it. Excellent glassware is provided and they offer to decant. The bottles are treated with the same respect as those on their own wine list, and both the sommelier and manager express real interest and excitement in the bottles coming through their door. Other diners are overtly curious. On the night in question, Philip Hedger I was simply one of a joyful circus of diners who had thought long and hard about which bottles to take along to entertain themselves and their friends ­ many other diners would crane their necks to see what treasures were in the house that evening. The vibe is always palpable. The place is transformed from mere individual groups of diners, to an all-out Supper Club. A happy restaurant is usually a full restaurant. Full restaurants are profitable. It's a virtuous cycle of events. Their policy should be called BYOP: Bring Your Own Pleasure. So why is there still so much resistance to BYO in the restaurant world? Whether one has a modest or expansive wine collection, we all share two common facts: it is yours and you collected it for a reason. Each bottle has meaning and sometimes even history and nostalgia attached to it. In your world these are special bottles. Going to a restaurant should be an event. It is theatre. Whether the kitchen is open or hidden behind walls, a complex dance is happening. It results, often mysteriously, in the food you ordered being placed in front of you, while your partner has something entirely different. That is what restaurants do ­ and although I am very familiar with how they work, when it works well it is always a piece of magic. I never take it for granted. COLUMN 121 F I N E He d g e r

In Praise of BYO Two major decisions are asked of diners: what entices you on the menu and which wine would be the best to marry with the food that has been chosen. The food is in front of you. It looks appetising. But did you order well when it comes to the wine? This is often not so happy; the list may be hard to navigate; the wine you really fancy with the venison dish is not on the list; or perhaps it is too young or not the right vintage. Or ­ and this is very likely ­ it is just too expensive. Somehow, the food assumes a metallic flavour as you realise that perfect marriage of wine and food has been missed. One of the major challenges with wine lists, especially for those restaurants which are what I call `middle management' restaurants, is that there are seldom many older or old vintages. They are too costly to acquire, even at auction, and the resulting charge on the wine list is prohibitive. The consequence is that many diners are unfamiliar with the excitement and beauty of gracious older vintages. So many excellent dishes would be enhanced by the combination of a mellow Rioja, an aged Napa Cabernet, an evolved Chateauneuf du Pape or thoroughly complex Barolo ­ its boyish and aggressive tannins wonderfully resolved. Even in 2012 there is serious resistance among many restaurants to BYO. During the pre ­ recession times of plenty, many restaurants went through a golden period, during which they provided a ready-made platform for conspicuous displays of wealth. Profit margins, which sometimes reached 300 per cent, resulted in a very bad deal for consumers. Even now, with a very different economy, these pricing practices persist. Of course there are some notable exceptions in many cities, but the attitude to BYO is very fragmented. They run the gamut from those who willingly embrace and offer BYO as part of their business and hospitality model, to those whose motto is: `forget about it'! These are establishments where BYO is either verboten or the corkage is so high that it amounts to the same unfriendly attitude. Those that welcome BYO make us customers very happy people. Gone is the fear of ordering from an unknown wine list. Gone is the feeling that the bottle you chose is so overpriced that it seems to actually affect the taste of the wine. Gone is the lost opportunity of matching that perfect wine from your cellar with the exquisite food of the restaurant. Instead, you begin to anticipate the whole upcoming experience at your favourite eatery ­ and much earlier than would otherwise be the case. What bottles shall I select from my collection for that creative octopus dish on the menu, or the deeply flavoured, house-aged beef? The meal is transformed in to an event, and the chef is delighted that you have selected that 1995 Quintarelli Amarone or 1984 Ridge Monte Bello ­ both of which you bought for a song so long ago ­ to accompany the food. I live in New York and wonder what can be done by consumers, here aand elsewhere, to encourage many more restaurants to adopt an enlightened attitude to wine service through making BYO an integral part of their approach. In the UK, a new club launched in 2010 has been the vector which has spurred a new era of democracy for diners. Rather unartfully called "The BYO Wine Club", it now boasts many participating establishments. They range from quite modest eateries to those which flash a significant number of Michelin stars. Is this vanguard movement the tip of a highly welcome iceberg? There are at least 17 000 restaurants in New York City ­ and several thousand more according to the Department of Health's records. Only a measured handful of these have a serious approach to BYO: less than half a per cent. And that is generous. So, is BYO a threat to the profitability, reputation or existence of restaurants? It is far from being a threat. Firstly, although some enlightened restaurateurs do offer corkage free options alongside an excellent wine list, no reasonable diner objects to a fair fixed corkage charge. Therefore, a profit is always made. Secondly, only a fairly small proportion of diners actually take advantage of free or fair corkage policies, so many diners purchase wine from the list. Thirdly, an enticing BYO policy draws in diners on less busy evenings and times of the year. And lastly, if some very well respected restaurants can co-exist profitably and happily with a genuine BYO policy, why can't others? We customers have a role to play as well. There should be an informal code which helps restaurants along this road to BYO and smart pricing practices. The main responsibilities we customers share are: to bring different and interesting wines to the restaurant ­ don't duplicate the wine list; be happy to pay a fair corkage fee; express your appreciation to the sommelier, restaurant owner or manager; help publicise the restaurant; and, most of all, tip exceedingly well! Remember: restaurants are businesses. They are tough businesses. Many fail. A smart approach to wine pricing and BYO brings in more customers and more regulars. We all want thriving restaurants of all types. Visionary restaurateurs recognise that a forward thinking wine pricing policy equals content customers and a prosperous future. These types of restaurateurs encourage diners to bring extreme, luxury wines which enhance the whole restaurant environment. The bottom line is this: I want to return home from a restaurant with memories of an event, not just a meal. I retain the thrill of my wines converging wonderfully with the charm and cuisine of the restaurant, and I am already looking forward to returning. > 122 FINE

The 100-year-old Sprit of Ecstasy has been recreated by one of the today's most provocative photographer. Rolls-Royce offered Rankin a full artistic license to create a modern and very personal interpretation of The Flying Lady. ­ An unprecedented approach for a brand like Rolls-Royce Motor Cars. During the year-long Rolls-Royce commission, Rankin captured 100 images inspired by the Spirit of Ecstasy ­ the figurine famed for its noticeable and defining position on the bonnet of every Rolls-Royce. "This is one of the biggest projects I have ever taken on," commented Rankin. "The images will be a statement about the modern day Rolls-Royce; they will feel fresh, directional and original, while also being beautiful and inspirational. The portraits will comprise a variety of perspectives, including full length as well as close-up shots incorporating facial features ­ an eye, a mouth ­ to reflect a unique interpretation of the figurine's connotations, while quietly symbolizing its classic underpinnings." THE of Spirit Ecstasy in blood Text: Pekka Nuikki Photos: Rankin 124 FINE and flesh

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Inspired by ageless beauty Like Charles Robinson Sykes, the man who crafted the legendary Spirit of Ecstasy flying lady one hundred years ago, Rankin takes inspiration from the beauty and sensuality of the feminine form. Just as Eleanor Velasco Thornton is rumored to have been Sykes' muse for the Spirit of Ecstasy, so Rankin has turned to his inspirational wife and model Tuuli Shipster for the first of his 100 portraits Rankin was motivated by themes such as ageless beauty, power, grace and effortless speed. He was also inspired by the sculptural forms, materials and textures of the Spirit of Ecstasy and by the mystique and intrigue that surround her. The photographic portraits complement each other as a full set, but also work well individually. The work features a selection of women of different ages and cultures, symbolizing the femininity of the Spirit of Ecstasy. Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars CEO, added: "Rankin's powerful portraits are part of contemporary iconography. His talent for capturing the strength and character of his subjects makes him the ideal photographer to take the Spirit of Ecstasy into the 21st century." As Rankin's photography shows undeniably, even 100 years later this very sensual and evocative pose continues to excite and inspire. Spirit of Ecstasy Featuring Tuuli in silhouette, draped in flowing fabric, the image strikes an undeniable resonance with the flying lady, echoing the qualities which inspired Sykes 100 years ago. 126 FINE

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Rankin: Synonymous with dynamic and intimate portraiture, Rankin has shot everyone from royalty to refugees. His powerful images are part of contemporary iconography, and mix a cross section of his own personal interests with commercial campaigns, from Nike to Women's Aid. His work is regularly exhibited in galleries around the world, from Sao Paolo to Moscow and London to LA. Rankin first came to prominence when he co-founded Dazed & Confused with Jefferson Hack. One of the most important magazines of the 90s, it established its stylists in the fashion elite, broke some of today's top designers and nurtured the budding careers of a generation of creative photographers. Earning a reputation for creative portraiture and a talent for capturing the character and spirit of his subjects, Rankin quickly became a formidable force in photography, shooting Brit-pop bands including Pulp and Blur and darlings of pop such as Kylie and Madonna. Rankin's career continued to blossom and covers for German Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Arena and GQ quickly followed. His body of work includes some of the most influential politicians, popular musicians, revered artists and celebrated models. However, Rankin also continued to take on projects that featured ordinary people, often questioning established notions of beauty, causing controversy and igniting debate along the way. Spirit of Ecstasy 128 FINE

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Having worked with some of the biggest names in the world, from Queen to Kylie and Marilyn Manson to Kate Moss, what is your most memorable professional experience? There are so many fun and memorable things that have happened to me. I get to jump between very bizarre worlds all the time, from Buckingham Palace one day to hanging out with rock stars another. I get an insight into people's lives that other people don't ­ and maybe wouldn't want to! One of the most surprising shoots was The Rolling Stones because they were so young at heart and so enthusiastic about everything. You get a lot of bands that are photographed a lot and they are really serious and quite mellow and a bit grumpy. I think that the Stones, even at their age now, were excited that they were still doing it and excited about life, which for me was a surprise. Spirit of Ecstasy 130 FINE

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A HEART LIKE NO OTHER CONTINENTAL GT V8 DIFFERENTLY DRIVEN. The new Bentley Continental GT V8 redefines Grand Touring with an exhilarating twist of innovation: A 4.0-litre twin-turbocharged engine. Its turbochargers are mounted within the `V' for efficiency and weight reduction, and variable displacement allows for a seamless switch from a visceral V8 to an effortless V4. It makes an awe-inspiring sound and gives the 8-speed transmission, all-wheel drive Continental GT V8 the power to combine dynamic sports performance with best-in-class Grand Tourer range. To bring this ad to life, simply download Aurasma Lite from your app store. Point your device at the image to access special hidden content. Fuel consumption figures for the Continental GT V8 in mpg (l/100km): Urban 18.4 (15.4); Extra Urban 36.7 (7.7); Combined 26.7 (10.5). CO2 Emissions (g/km): 246. Fuel consumption figures are provisional and subject to Type Approval. The name `Bentley' and the `B' in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2012 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Continental GT V8.

FINE CoNtENts 15 19 22 30 44 66 72 74 81 88 102 104 110 120 124 Fineeditorial East of Eden FinenUiKKi Fine wine's worst enemy: Food FineVintaGe The 2011 Bordeaux Harvest Report FineeState Screaming Eagle ­ The Half a Million Dollar Wine FineVintaGe NAPA Valley Vintage 2008 FinePerSonalitY John Kapon ­ The Fine Wine Auction World's New York Giant FineGil Is the Chinese market maturing? FineVintaGe Bordeaux Vintage 1952 FinetaStinG The Berlin Tasting Helsinki 2011 FineeState Cullen Wines ­ The Song of the Land Fineeditor'S PicK Laughably Tasty Rice FinetreaSUre Champagne Treasure from the Deep FineliFeStYle The Flying Lady ­ Rolls Royce FineHedGer In Praice of BYO FineGallerY The Spirit of Ecstacy in Flesh and Blood <<< Return to the coverpage