­ the best customer care in the business Here at FINE, we believe that not only do our customers appreciate the best service in the field, but that they also need to be looked after in a very personal way. So, instead of selling only magazine subscriptions, we want to offer you more. A lot more. To be caring and supportive in all matters concerning top wines: that is our promise to you. When you become a FINE client by choosing a service package most suited to your needs from the subscription list, we will make sure that your knowledge and know-how in fine wines will quickly increase. You will stay ahead of the pack in terms of fine wines and be well informed as to how the best wines fare on the market and in the glass, as well as where to get them and how to tell fakes from the real ones. FINE WINE SUBSCRIPTION FINE WINE Subscriptions FINE CHAMPAGNE SUBSCRIPTION This package includes everything you will ever want to know about champagne and the effervescent lifestyle that surrounds it. It keeps you abreast of the world of champagne with the world's only champagne magazine, current newsletters, books and other services that are included in the package. When you want to gain access to the world of top wines and be among the first to learn about wine happenings, the most recent tasting experiences and vintage analyses, but you don't collect or invest heavily in wines, this is made just for you. This package reveals the fascinating stories behind the world's finest wines and makes sure that you stay up to date regarding top wines through the leading FINE Wine Magazine, newsletters, books and other services that are included in the package. For more information click here For more information click here FINE RARE SUBSCRIPTION If you are wine enthusiast, FINE RARE includes everything you need and more. We will make sure that you will be the first to hear about what happens in the world of fine wines, as well as telling you every week which wines are at their best right now and how their prices are developing. In addition, we will also warn you about the fakes on the market. The package consists of the leading magazines concerning fine wine: FINE the Wine Magazine and FINE Champagne Magazine, all our wine guides, The 1000 Finest Wines Ever Made book ­ which is considered to be the Michelin Guide of the wine world ­ and a unique array of other services. FINEst SUBSCRIPTION We have designed this package for wine collectors, investors and professionals. It offers the most current knowledge of the world's best wines, their drinkability today, price developments and the handling of the wines ­ all on a daily basis. The package includes everything you can imagine, including the world's only Wine Investing Magazine, FINE Champagne and Wine Magazines, books and guides, a professional tasting tool and community, the world's only FINE Wine Auction Index, and invitations to events around the world. This is a package that only the world's leading FINE Wine Media can offer you. We will ensure that you stay immersed in everything related to the top wines of the world on every single day of the week. For more information click here For more information click here W O R L D ' S O N L Y C H A M P A G N E No. 7 £ 2 5 · 3 0 · U S $ 3 5 · C a n $ 3 5 · A u s $ 3 5 M A G A Z I N E Charles Heidsieck · Shipwreck champagnes · Richard Geoffroy · Ocean Reef · Story of Champagne CHAMPAGNE AND FOOD

Page 16 FINE Personality 2011 Page 22 FINE Legend 2 Page 36 FINE Champagne & Food Page 50 FINE City Page 64 FINE Discovering Champagne Page 76 FINE Treasure

Page 96 FINE Destination Page 112 FINE Event 11 13 16 22 28 36 Page 58 FINE Science Fine Avellan Editorial Fine Nuikki It's the Journey, Not the Destination Fine Personality Richard Geoffroy 2011 Fine Legend Champagne Charlie ­ A Winner Fine Producer Charles Heidsieck Fine Champagne Champagne ­ The Best Accompaniment & Food to Food Fine City Spotlight on Sydney Fine Science Champagne Time Travellers Fine Discovering Reims Champagne Fine Champagne Champagne Up in the Treetops Bar Fine Juhlin Shipwrecked Champagne Uncorked Fine Treasure Champagne Treasure from the Deep Fine History The Story of Champagne ­ Part 1 Fine Celebration Dom Pérignon 1961 ­ The Choice of Champagne Charles and Diana Fine Event Canadian Champagne Dinner Fine Destination Ocean Reef Fine Kapon Party of the Year Fine Event The Finest Wines Dinner 50 58 64 70 74 76 81 84 88 96 110 112 at Ocean Reef Club Page 70 FINE Champagne Bar Fi n e C o n t e n t s 3 Fo ni t nn tes C e

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CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Editor Essi Avellan MW essi.avellan@fine-magazines.com Publisher Meri Kukkavaara meri@fine-magazines.com Copy Editor Craig Houston craig.houston@fine-magazines.com Creative Director Teemu Timperi teemu.timperi@fine-magazines.com Art Director Jouna Stern jouna.stern@fine-magazines.com Cover art & illustrations Minna Liukkonen Senior Adviser Charles A. Banks Contributors Oumy Diaw, Andreas Larsson, Peter Liem, Debra Meiburg MW, Kavita Faiella, John Kapon, Jan-Erik Paulson, Amanda Regan, Philip Tuck MW, Martin Williams MW, Jukka Sinivirta WRITERS Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki, founder and editor-in-chief of FINE Magazines, is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He has published over twenty international wine and art books, among them In Vino Veritas, a book on investing in wines, Drinking History on fine wines and their vintages between 1870­1970, a book about the Château Mouton-Rothschild ­ Wine and Art 1924­2003 and most recently a book about the best German white wines. Mr Nuikki is also an award-winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and he has worked as creative director of advertising agency group. He is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Essi Avellan MW Editor Essi Avellan is the first Master of Wine from Finland and second ever from the Nordic countries. She was awarded the Lily Bollinger Medal as the best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award as the best overall student in the Master of Wine examination. In addition to writing champagne books and wine buying guides, Ms Avellan contributes to several newspapers and wine magazines internationally. She judges at several wine competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Wines of Argentina Awards. Ms Avellan has been awarded the title of Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Juha Lihtonen Editorial Adviser Juha Lihtonen is the editor of FINE ­ The Wine Magazine and its American & Scandinavian editions and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine buyer of a major cruise line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Andreas Larsson Contributor Andreas Larsson is the editor of FINEst Wines Magazine and a regular FINE columnist. The 2007 Best Sommelier of the World, the best sommelier in Europe in 2004 and the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2002, Mr Larsson has worked as a sommelier in the best restaurants in Stockholm and won the Wine International Sommelier Challenge in 2005. He is a member of the Grand Jury Européen and has occupied many wine juror positions around the world. Martin Williams MW Contributor Martin Williams is a Yarra Valley-based winemaker and consultant. Originally from Sydney's northern beaches, Martin studied chemistry and biochemistry at the University of Sydney before embarking on an extended journey into the world of wine. In 1999, Martin became a Master of Wine, and in 2008 he won the Vin de Champagne Award, sponsored in Australia by the CIVC. He is currently continuing his wine consultancy, education and writing activities, while exploring his passions for flying, motorcycle touring, experimental music and the Australian landscape. Peter Liem Contributor Originally from California, Peter Liem emigrated to Champagne in 2006 in order to get an insider's view on his beloved wine region. In addition to being a staff writer and columnist for the Wine & Spirit magazine, Liem publishes the world's best and most comprehensive champagne blog, champagneguide.net. He is recognised as a spokesperson for the grower champagnes. Richard Juhlin Contributor Richard Juhlin is a world-renowned champagne specialist famous for holding the world record for the number of champagnes tasted. Up until today 6946 champagnes have passed his lips. He has also written several books on the subject; Champagneboken in 1995, 2000 Champagnes in 1999, The Great Tasting in 2000, 3000 Champagnes in 2002, 4000 Champagnes in 2004 and the Richard Juhlin Champagne Guide in 2008. In 2002 Juhlin received a "Merite de Agricole" from the French Ministry of Agriculture. Meri Kukkavaara Contributor Meri is an interior designer by trade, who has a wide range of interests in the field of art, as well as education. Since completing her art studies in Florence, Italy she has worked extensively with art exhibitions and antiques, while occasionally contributing to art exhibitions as a free artist. She is also an art therapist, with more than ten years of experience. Meri is a keen student of life and in her free time enjoys taking up courses such as drumming, Indian cooking and tango. 10 Photographers Michael Boudot, Pekka Nuikki Translator Eva Malkki Sales Director Paulina Hoffman paulina.hoffman@fine-magazines.com Communications Director Markku Vartiainen markku.vartiainen@fine-magazines.com Sales Martine Mäkijärvi martine.makijarvi@fine-magazines.com Thomas Hassi thomas.hassi@fine-magazines.com Marketing Assistant Sanna Vihervaara sanna.vihervaara@fine-magazines.com Financial Manager Noora Mähönen noora.mahonen@fine-magazines.com Printing House Edita Prima Subscriptions and queries www.fine-magazines.com subs@fine-magazines.com +358 (0)10 289 1000 Publisher Oy Fine Publishing Ltd, 100 Pall Mall, St James London SW1Y 5HP, UK © Copyright: FINE Champagne Magazine Ltd ISSN: 1797-433X FINE Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Champagne Magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements.

Editorial ast summer's topic of champagne talk was the 19th century shipwreck found in the Åland archipelago in Finland. The cargo hold revealed every diver's dream ­ a champagne treasure of 145 ancient bottles from Juglar, Veuve Clicquot and Heidsieck co & Monopole. This year the hot topic is speculation over their value, as on June 3rd, the first two bottles will be put on auction. There is a realistic chance the new owners will need to pay a world record price. Until then, it is Dom Pérignon Rosé 1959 that holds that honour with two bottles sold for 84 700 dollars at a New York auction in 2008. In addition to giving you the full details of the Åland discovery, this issue will explore the characteristics of this unique "underwater cellar", which has been able to extend the life of these bottles beyond our wildest dreams. Martin Williams MW sheds light on this as he researches the science of champagne ageing. Champagne is still largely considered a toasting and celebration wine, and its strengths in food matching are poorly understood. We will, together with world experts on the subject, give you full insight to this matter. We will also introduce our two new insightful columnists, renowned champagne expert Richard Juhlin, and the CEO of the world's leading wine auctioneer Acker, Merrall & Condit, John Kapon. In addition, we will begin a journey into the glorious past of champagne with part I of the series "Story of Champagne", while great champagne characters of the past are commemorated with the colourful life-story of Charles Heidsieck, known as "Champagne Charlie". Last but not the least, in order to celebrate and honour the influential champagne figures of today, we have decided to nominate an annual FINE Champagne personality. Out of the pool of opinion leaders and visionaries, our unanimous vote went to Richard Geoffroy, the respected long-term cellar master of the world's most famous wine, Dom Pérignon. I propose a toast of Dom Pérignon to this talented and thoughtful visionary! Enjoy FINE Champagne, E ll Essi Avellan MW Editor Fi n e E d i t o r i a l 11 L

It's the Journey, Not the Destination M Unfortunately, very few follow this simple advice. I believe that too many people buy good wines for profit, as an investment, while wondering, "What's so special about this wine business? What makes sensible, successful people fall in love with wine?" I have nothing against investing in wines; on the contrary, I have done that myself. But pure and simple investing is a fairly one-dimensional and solitary undertaking, far removed from some of the basic principles of wine: sociability, enjoyment, sharing, and so on. Because enjoyment increases through sharing, I want to share with you a few more indepth bits of advice for the wine collecting novice, based on my own experience. BUY WINES YOU CAN ENJOY IMMEDIATELY ­ by either drinking or selling them. Don't buy wines that won't reach their sensory or financial peak for decades. Don't blow your entire budget in one go; buy the best wines that you can find that fit your budget. Leave some money for later, as there are always even better offers around the corner. BE YOURSELF. Don't follow the latest wine-buying trends. The fashionable wines, such as Château Lafite now or garage wines a few years ago, are usually overpriced, overrated and difficult to get hold of. You wouldn't buy the same car as your neighbour, would you? Usually, the success of trendy wines is not based on quality. BE DILIGENT AND PATIENT. It is easy to buy wines at large stores and auctions. The selection is huge and tempting and buying is simple. But in these places you will seldom find real gems or bargains. Put some effort into it. Look online, ask your friends and mention what you are looking for in your Facebook status, for example. Be patient and don't agree on a deal until you feel it has the right balance of reason versus gut feeling. Last but not least: FILL YOUR BOOKSHELVES BEFORE YOUR WINE CELLAR. The importance of knowledge cannot be emphasised enough when buying wines. Without knowledge you will not form a proper sentimental attachment or lifelong love stories with wine. Knowledge is also the basis for all rational activity and helps you to form goals. Without a goal, the journey feels worthless. My own goal is simple, and it is to enjoy moments, people ­ close friends and strangers ­ and myself, right now. One of the best ways for me to achieve this is to open a good bottle of wine and tell others about it. Unfortunately, very few follow this simple advice. DON'T BE TOO UNCONDITIONAL. Do you really have to have the best of the best from the start? Wait a while, sleep on it and perhaps instead of the 1947 Cheval Blanc, buy the 1990 vintage. It is likely to make you just as happy and will leave a little room in your budget. It Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Fi n e N u i k k i 13 any of my friends and acquaintances have recently begun to collect wines. At least, that is what I can assume from the numerous questions that flood my inbox almost daily. The first question is usually "WHAT WINES SHOULD I BUY?" My plain and simple answer is: buy wines that you like and that you want to enjoy. What is the point of wines you're not going to drink? Are you sure you want to spend your money on them? is more enjoyable and will help you figure out what you really like. BE BRAVE. Buy at least one half of the wines in your cellar on a gut feeling rather than by reasoning, and be prepared to pay a little more for them. You can always rationalise the purchase of wine, but nothing beats the satisfaction of a purchase made by following your heart. It's almost half the enjoyment of the wine.

"Le Dom aine Les Cr ayères" one of the most Today, more than ever before, Le Domaine Les Crayères reaffirms the desire and determination to be a living celebration of Champagne ­ the region, the beverage, and the lifestyle it embodies ­ both for Reims and for the world. What we have to offer is unique: our five-star hotel «Le Château», our gourmet restaurant «Le Parc», our new brasserie «Le Jardin», our superb setting so close to the city centre, in the very midst of Champagne and its consummate, celebrated beverage... Member of Relais & Châteaux Member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde Email: contact@lescrayeres.com www.lescrayeres.com

Philippe Mille brings out the natural best of les Crayères' at the gourmet restaurant «Le Parc» and the brasserie «Le Jardin»... At his side, the wine and champagne expertise of Head Sommelier Philippe Jamesse. b e a u t i f u l va c at i o n r e s o rt s i n t h e w o r l d . REIMS - CHA MPAGNE - FRANCE Domaine Les Crayères - 64 boulevard Henry Vasnier - 51100 REIMS - Tel : +33. (0) 3.26.24.90.00 - Fax : +33. (0)3.26.24.90.01

P FINE G ersonality 2011 richard of Dom Pérignon eoffroy

Te xt : Es s i Ave llan MW Pho to s : Michael B oud ot benefit the entire region. The guardian of the wine, cellar master Richard Geoffroy, has built a formidable legacy during his 20 years in charge. His achievements span quality, volume and reputation. FINE Champagne has therefore nominated him Champagne Personality of the Year. D om Pérignon is much more than just the prestige cuvée of Moët & Chandon; it is the big brother of all champagnes whose prestige and global presence Fi n e P e r s o na l i t y 17

Geoffroy R i c h a r d 18 G

G I am meeting Richard Geoffroy, the man behind the world's most famous wine, Dom Pérignon, on a perfectly sunny July morning at Hautvillers Abbey. I knock on the massive three-metre-high door, which hides behind it the spiritual home of champagne, the grounds where Dom Pérignon conducted his celebrated wine experiments in the 17th century. I am let in, only to hear the master has not yet arrived. I take the opportunity to explore the historical property and to sense the special ambiance. Soon, the impeccably dressed Richard Geoffroy advances briskly through the courtyard towards me and greets me with a warm smile. It is a beautiful morning and we decide to exchange the latest news while walking around the property. Seemingly happy but clearly exhausted, Geoffroy explains: "I have had the most exhilarating six months. I have travelled around the world to introduce our new launches." It certainly has been a special year for Dom Pérignon, as several top vintages have been brought on to the market. The highly anticipated vintage 2002, Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 and Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1995 have all seen daylight. There is also a wholly new Dom Pérignon for the fans to explore, namely the inaugural Dom Pérignon Oenothèque Rosé 1990. "I have never travelled as much but I insisted on personally communicating the information about these special wines. For me, it is a privilege ven though today's topic is the winemaker himself, not the wines, we begin by tasting the new releases. As I think wines often mirror their maker, I feel as though I might be learning a lot about Mr. Geoffroy just by listening to him explain his wines to me. "Dom Pérignon is all about pleasure and joy. A seamless, silky texture is what we are after. I want it to caress you; I am not keen on weight or power. Dom Pérignon must be vibrant and long. I like to call it the Dom Pérignon glide, reminiscent of the surfer riding the perfect wave." Occasionally Geoffroy sounds more like a poet than a winemaker when talking about his wines. To me he epitomises the fine balance between the art and science of winemaking. In addition to history, philosophy and art, there is a high degree of science in every bottle of Dom Pérignon. In fine wine terms it is a prestige cuvée produced in unprecedented volumes. It is Geoffroy's task and ultimately grand achievement to make the wine combine instant appeal with a monumental ageing capacity. Still, making one of the most recognised, fol- An artist and a scientist E eoffroy eoffroy's link to champagne vignerons is tighter than that, as members of his family have been growers in the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne for seven generations. His father Henri Geoffroy is a highly respected figure in the champagne trade, serving as chairman of the producers' and growers' body CIVC for 16 years. However, Richard Geoffroy failed to hear the call of the vine in his youth. He went to study medicine and achieved his doctorate in 1982. "As a young boy I was more of an intellectual type, though I was not opposed to sports. I suppose my character is split between the urges to help people and to create things. I love designing, building and creating things. I could have been an architect, but in the end I chose medicine." Soon after his studies, though, Geoffroy felt a strong attraction pulling him back to his roots, to winemaking: "I was 31 when I started to study enology in Reims. My advancement was fast, as I had the Vinegrower's son G ichard Geoffroy has three children, all boys between 18 and 21 years of age. Will anyone of them follow in his footsteps and perhaps become the next superstar winemaker? "No. It looks like none of 19 them will go into winemaking. I have not wanted to influence their career selections. Instead, I am proud of letting them go their own ways; I find that people often try to influence their kids far too much." In addition to bringing up his own children, Geoffroy also needs to build a future for Dom Pérignon. "I think knowledge and skill are best shared. In that way the whole project will grow. I am not on an ego trip, as I am much better off being unselfish. I really believe that generosity pays off, and that is what wine is all about. Geoffroy has certainly reached the point where he has accomplished enough and is now reflecting a lot on life and people. "Today we are just too hectic without a purpose. Patience is a virtue that will be back one day soon, and skill to manage one's time will be the virtue of the 21st century. Passing it on R Fi n e P e r s o na l i t y to connect with people and cultures." One can immediately see that he loves to showcase Dom Pérignon and that is exactly what we are about to do in the airy second floor tasting room of the ascetic main building of the abbey. lowed, praised and, conversely, criticised wines must be an enormous responsibility and a stress factor. "People within the company often wonder how I can be so relaxed. We are often maligned as the ugly big guy, but being small does not allow you to hold the truth. One cannot cut corners in fine wine making, and I am just as uncompromising as a small grower." feeling of having to catch up with the others who had started much earlier than me. His path soon took him to LVMH, and before joining Moët & Chandon he made wine for Chandon in Napa, California.

Geoffroy R i c h a r d eoffroy clearly has a liking for the finest things in life, and he lives a life unimaginable to most of us. In his job, he tours the world presenting Dom Pérignon in an exclusive style that suits this brand. A gourmand, Geoffroy has formed close ties between Dom Pérignon and the world's best chefs and sommeliers. Not long ago he recreated a 17th century dinner at the Palace of Versailles, while he regularly meets with the most astonishing 20 people, from Hollywood stars to top politicians. "Recently I had a private dinner with Leonardo di Caprio and his friends; Gerard Depardieu is a character, but I can tell you that Al Pacino is larger than life! I am very close to Lenny Kravitz ­ he has a very special sense of caring about the world. Regardless of all this, nothing Life of luxury G beats being in the middle of your own people." In his earlier days Geoffroy was a fan of fast and beautiful cars. However, he has now changed to a Japanese hybrid. "At our company they first objected to my wish of driving a hybrid, as it was "not my status". But more and more I have realised we have a responsibility to our kids. Some five years ago I looked in the mirror and was not happy with myself. Since then I have become environmentally conscious and want to do my share. Life legacies I n addition to leaving a legacy to his children, Geoffroy also needs to leave a legacy for Dom Pérignon. There can be no doubt that he has certainly left his mark in history, and that the brand has thrived un- der his stewardship. During his 20 years in charge at Dom Pérignon, the production volume has seen enormous growth. The Dom Pérignon brand has been separated from Moët & Chandon, giving it a life of its own. But one of the greatest legacies of Richard Geoffroy is the launch of the library vintages of Dom Pérignon, the Oenothèques. "Throughout time Moët & Chandon have possessed a fantastic cellar of older vintages. As in the early days, there was no written tradition; the truth was solely in the wine. It is la cave du chef de cave, the cellar master's cellar. And thanks to the Oenotheques, we have the privilege of opening its doors to everybody." As Dom Pérignon is such a long-lived wine, revealing its true greatness only with bottle age, the Oenothèques are extremely important when communicating the Dom Pérignon quality and style. In Geoffroy's time, the number of bottles held back at the winery has been significantly increased. Therefore future generations are guaranteed a good supply of historical vintages of Dom Pérignon. A fine example of Geoffroy's visionary character is that he put aside bottles of Dom Pérignon Rosé from his very first vintage, the 1990. This inaugural Dom Pérignon Oenothèque Rosé was launched last year. Having accomplished so much, is there more to dream about for Richard Geoffroy? I am not surprised to hear the answer of this self-critical man, who is obsessed with detail and perfection: "My lifetime project is to make the ultimate wine." >

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A Winner Text: Juha Lihtonen It is 1857. A severe storm batters a fleet of cargo ships on their way from France to New York. On board one ship huge waves crash over the deck with a force that shakes the whole vessel. 35-year-old CharlesCamille Heidsieck monitors the situation on deck with alarm. He has every reason to be concerned, as within the fleet's cargo lie three hundred thousand bottles of Charles Heidsieck champagne. The loss of this, the largest ever shipment of champagne to the United States, would mean inevitable bankruptcy for Charles-Camille Heidsieck's six-year-old family business. Fi n e L e g e n d 23

wo days later the ship arrives in port at New York where it is met by crowds eager to greet the renowned champagne hero and his unprecedented cargo. Charles-Camille Heidsieck, who five years earlier captivated the people of New York with his charm and his champagne, has finally returned, and this time with a boatload of his heavenly elixir. The newspapers sing the praises of the man and his return under the headline "Charlie is back again" and the nickname "Champagne Charlie" is born. Over the following five years he successfully lives the American Dream until fate takes a hand, dealing him a blow from which it would seems impossible to recover. T 24 The newspapers sing the praises of the man and his return under the headline "Charlie is back again" and the nickname "Champagne Charlie" is born. Young businessman The story of Champagne Charlie started in 1846 when Charles-Camille Heidsieck returned home to Reims after studying commerce at the University of Lübeck. The 24-year-old enthusiastically threw himself into champagne manufacturing, learnt about the different champagne styles and soon spotted opportunities to develop and improve the quality of champagne. In 1851, with his brother-in-law Ernest Henriot, Charles-Camille founded the champagne house that bears his name. As well as making champagne, he also dedicated himself to marketing his champagnes and seeking out new customers. Unlike other champagne producers, he explored the potential offered by the New World. New markets were found across the pond in the United States, where little, if anything, was known about champagne at the time. To ensure his position as a forerunner in the US market, Charles-Camille travelled to Boston the very next year, from there continuing his US marketing tour inland as far as Niagara Falls. His final stop was New York, where his reputation had preceded him. The popularity of his delectable beverages also attracted the attention of a local wine agent, and before returning home Charles-Camille entered into an agreement under which the

agent would distribute his champagnes in the United States. Sales got off to a flying start and Charles Heidsieck's effervescent drinks gained growing popularity in America. Weapons in the marketing game While in the United States, Charlie observed the American penchant for guns and decided on his next visit to take with him not only champagne, but the latest handguns and hunting guns from Paris. The ploy guaranteed press attention and saw him hailed as a great shot and a weapons expert, as well as a champagne specialist. He became a familiar face on the New York social scene and, when walking the streets of New York, was dogged by pressmen and photographers reporting his every move. Champagne Charlie soon left New York society behind and spent the next nine months travelling the US, as far afield as Ohio, Texas, Missouri and Mississippi, marketing his wine. In the space of ten years, Charles Heidsieck had managed to create significant markets for his champagne in the United States while other champagne producers were focused on Europe and Russia. Concentrating on a single market also has its risks, however, and this was a strategy which was almost to cost him his life. Dire straits In spring 1861, while in France, Charles-Camille became aware of unrest breaking out in the United States. Soon the country was in the midst of a bloody civil war. This was a worrying situation for the Charles Heidsieck firm as the company's assets were tied up in thousands of champagne shipments in the US which had not yet been paid for. Charles-Camille rushed to New York to see his agent. On arrival he found that a law had been passed absolving purchasers from all their bills to the South. Citing the new law, the agent refused to pay for the champagne ordered. Champagne Charlie's appeals to the agent's honour were to no avail and he was in a desperate predicament. Without the payment for the champagne, the company was on the verge of bankruptcy. Charlie, however, knew that shipments of his champagne had been sent to New Orleans and he headed south to collect the payments directly from the purchasers. The journey through the battle lines was a perilous one. After many detours and much danger, Charlie arrived in New Orleans, where he found that no-one could afford to pay for the champagne. Dejected, he agreed to exchange his champagne for cotton. After all, cotton was highly valuable in Europe. However, he ran into problems trying to get the cotton out of the United States. Due to the war, the harbours He became a familiar face on the New York social scene and, when walking the streets of New York, was dogged by pressmen and photographers reporting his every move. Fi n e L e g e n d 25

and sea routes were blocked. One exception was the port of Mobile in Mississippi, where ships were dodging the blockade. Charlie hired two vessels to carry the cotton, telling the captains to take different routes to make sure that at least one of the shipments reached its destination. His caution was justified, as only a few days after the ships set off, Charlie heard that one of the vessels had been wrecked. Deadly papers Word that troops from the North were fast approaching Mobile saw Charlie sign up as a barman on a ship leaving Mobile for New Orleans. He promised to take with him documents from the French embassy to the French consulate in New Orleans. Four days later the ship arrived at its destination. It was too late, as the city was now occupied by Union forces. Troops led by General Benjamin Butler took the vessel's occupants prisoner, with Charlie among them. The documents from the French consulate were found on his person, revealing that French textile manufacturers were supporting the Confederates in the South by providing them with weapons. Champagne Charlie was accused of espionage and, despite his protestations, was flung into the notorious Fort Jackson prison in Louisiana. The Heidsieck case created a diplomatic incident between France and the United States, in which negotiators included Napoleon III, a great friend of Charles Heidsieck's champagnes. He ordered Abraham Lincoln to overturn the decision to imprison Charlie. In the meantime, Charlie, incarcerated in a muddy cell in the midst of the swamps, had incurred the wrath of General Butler, who was in charge of the prison. Butler cancelled Charlie's visiting permits. He hoped to hang the Frenchman and said that not even an appeal from Napoleon III would save him. Finally, the French consul was granted permission to visit, but the message was far from encouraging. Everything that could be done had been done and Charlie should prepare for the worst. The consul also told him that the other ship carrying cotton had been burned. During the hot summer, conditions in the prison only deteriorated. Yellow fever was rife in the dampness and the heat, and the prisoners were dropping like flies ­ Heidsieck's cellmate included. Hungry crocodiles attempting to get in through the cell's open windows during the Mississippi floods constituted a further hazard. After three months, starving Charlie was battling for his life. Finally, after six months in prison, the skeletal Heidsieck heard that Abraham Lincoln had granted him a pardon. His return home to France had to wait, however, as his health was so poor that it was months before he had recovered sufficiently to withstand the long sea voyage. 26 Rock bottom On returning home in spring 1863 a bleak prospect awaited him. Other than the company's bankrupt estate, his wife had had to sell most of the family's property to survive. Charlie was now 41 years old and facing a huge dilemma. What next? Start again from scratch? And if so, with what?

The answer appeared as if out of the blue, when one night there was a knock at the door. There stood a messenger, holding in his hand a letter addressed to Charlie. The letter was from a missionary from the United States who had arrived in Champagne and was staying with relatives in a neighbouring village. The letter said that the missionary had an important matter to discuss with Charlie and wanted to see him immediately. That very night Charlie met the man, who gave him a bunch of papers and a map and said they were Charlie's property. The papers were from the brother of Charlie's former US agent. The writer said he felt greatly ashamed of his brother's behaviour in failing to pay his champagne debts. He hoped to recompense Heidsieck for his suffering in the form of land ­ the deeds to which he hereby granted to Charlie. Examining the map and the areas of land assigned to him, Charlie saw that he owned a third of the city of Denver. With the proceeds from selling plots of land in the city, by then the largest and richest in the west of the US, the Heidsieck family were not only able to safeguard their future but also to restore the fortunes of the once successful Charles Heidsieck champagne house. Continued success And so the people of New York were soon once Champagne Charlie was accused of more able to raise glasses of Charles Heidsieck's espionage and, despite his protestations, champagne and celebrate the survival of popular Champagne Charlie. Although the US market was flung into the notorious Fort was still important to Heidsieck, Charlie also Jackson prison in Louisiana. looked elsewhere; in 1864 he travelled to Russia to convert Tsar Alexander III to his champagnes. Charlie did not market his wines, however. With their incomparable quality, they marketed themselves. Demand spread from the Russian court to other royal houses of Europe and Charles Heidsieck's champagnes became the favourite of European royalty. On his death in 1893 at the age of 71 Champagne Charlie left the company, by now producing almost a million bottles a year, in the hands of his two sons. The company continued in family ownership under Henriot until it was bought by international giant Rémy-Cointreau in 1985. This year the company changed into the French EPI's ownership. Under the new ownership the quality and marketing of Charles Heidsieck's champagne continues in line with Champagne Charlie's motto: "champagne speaks for itself ". And so it does, as first prize in countless wine contests, organised by top wine professionals and the international press, go to show. > References: Champagne ­ Don & Petie Kladstrup (2005) Memories for Tomorrow ­ Charles Heidsieck (2007) Fi n e L e g e n d 27

28

C Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot "Excuse me, what was that?" is a question I frequently hear when I list my top 5 champagne houses and mention Charles Heidsieck. It never ceases to amaze me how this house of impeccable quality remains so scarcely known. Its wines gather trophies in wine competitions and are applauded by experts ­ Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve even won FINE Champagne Magazine's Best Non-Vintage title last year. Instead of attracting the attention of the general wine public, it has remained as a hidden treasure of those in the know. However, I have a feeling Charles Heidsieck is finally on the verge of a real breakthrough. Fi n e P r o d u c e r 29 sieck eid es H ­For arl h

One must admire the long-term vision and commitment of RémyCointreau, or Rémy Martin at the time, when they acquired the champagne house of Charles Heidsieck from the Henriot family in 1985. A few years prior to the purchase, the cellar master of Henriot, Daniel Thibault, had started to gain reputation as a winemaking and blending genius. At the time of the acquisition Rémy Martin saw an opportunity knocking and poached Thibault from Henriot. The change of house was also a dream come true for Thibault, as Rémy Martin guaranteed him the resources needed to build what aimed to be the best non-vintage cuvée on the market. The capital tied to the process was massive. Thibault started collecting an enormous stock of reserve wines. When most houses' reserve wines accounted for 20 per cent of the non-vintage cuvées, the Charles Heidsieck ideal style required 40 per cent. The wines held back for future blends were also to be much older than the usual one to two years, averaging four to five years. The oldest wines that go in the blend may be as mature as 12 years old. It is these reserve wines that allow Charles Heidsieck to graft their non-vintage cuvée into a rich, seductively toasty, honeyed wine of great depth. Its toasty nature fools many into thinking oak is involved in the production. But the wines see only stainless steel and are kept extended times in the vessels on the lees, which brings the richness of flavour and texture to them. Ahead of their time Daniel Thibault's visionary and perfectionist nature brought about another innovation, the "Mis en Cave" concept. Against common practise, Thibault considered showing the age of the non-vintage wine on the label essential, as both time on the lees and postdisgorgement evolution are important indications of the wine's style and maturity to the consumer. In 1997, Charles Heidsieck re-launched its non-vintage as Brut Réserve Mis en Cave, with the bottling year indicated on the label. For instance the Mis en Cave 1992 was crafted of 1991 fruit plus reserve wines and bottled in 1992. Despite the fantastic intentions, the concept was found to be confusing for both consumers and the trade. Charles Heidsieck pushed ahead with it for a number of years, but finally gave in and settled for mentioning the cellaring and disgorgement times on the back label. In retrospect, they were ahead of their time, as recently many houses such as Lanson, Philipponnat and Jacquesson have started to state the disgorgement times on the labels. Charlie steps aside Daniel Thibault certainly left his mark on the history of Charles Heidsieck. For a reason not quite clear to me, under his guidance the house seized production of the previous prestige cuvée Champagne Charlie, with the last vintage being the 1985. As replacement, Thibault crafted Blanc des Millénaires blanc de blancs, starting with the 1983 vintage. As his vision was always to create an incredible blanc de blancs, he decided to focus his energies on the Blanc des Millénaires after the brilliant 1985 vintage. 30

Despite my admiration for this creamy, toasty, velvety wine, I still think Champagne Charlie was a great wine with a great name and pedigree. One hopes it will be revived one day. to drink. The wines for the more restrained and classic Charles are rich and evolved, very much a crafted for gastronomy. When I visited the cellar at blending time, I was given an interesting tasting exercise. I sampled a dozen still wines from all three grape varieties from a variety of villages. My task was to decide whether the base wine should go to Charles or Piper depending on the style. The aspired styles for both houses became crystal-clear to me when I was picking structured wines for extended ageing for Charles and lively fruit-forward samples for Piper. The winemaking hands at P&C Heidsieck today belong to Régis Camus, who took over in 2002, when Daniel Thibault passed away unexpectedly. Fortunately, Camus had worked together with Thibault since 1994, when Thibault had hand-picked Camus to be his successor. Consequently, the change has not brought about any drop in quality or alterations in style. Even though replacing someone as legendary as Thibault is not easy, Camus has shown his capabilities as a great blender; especially via the steadily rising quality of Piper Heidsieck and the numerous trophies earned by Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve and Brut Rosé Réserve. The secret is out. If you have not yet encountered Charles Heidsieck, now is the time to get to know Charlie! Completed puzzle Today, all the pieces in the Charles Heidsieck puzzle are finally finding their place. Rémy Cointreau acquired the house of Piper Heidsieck in 1990, and since then a merging of the two houses has taken place. In April this year the duo were sold to a French company EPI (Societé Européenne de Participations Industrielles), which is a family business interested in long-term development of the house. The company is now P&C Heidsieck, with all vinification and cellaring taking place under the same roof by the same qualified hands. And quite a winery it is. The companies left their administrative buildings in the heart of Reims and moved to more spacious surroundings on the outskirts of the town in 2008. The new ultramodern design winery has all the latest winemaking equipment. The 2000-year-old Gallo-Roman chalk cellars acquired by Charles Heidsieck in 1851 have been used for ageing all of the Charles Heidsieck wines since the foundation of the House, but now the wines of Piper-Heidsieck are aged there also. However, nurturing two brands in one winery evidently creates a unique situation. At P&C Heidsieck differentiation is managed by separating the house styles and brand images. The flashy-red marketing-driven brand Piper's champagne is fresh, vibrant and easy Fi n e P r o d u c e r 31

91 pts 91 pts 93 pts 32 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 2011/2028 Deep lemony colour. Pronounced and deliciously sweet nose of burnt match, toast, brioche, honey and minerality. Full and round, succulent palate with velvety texture and plenty of autolytic complexity. Long and intense ­ very enjoyable already. Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosé NV 2011/2016 Pale pink colour with onion skin hues. Rich and smooth nose of toast, red berries, dried fruit and soft spiciness. The smooth and round palate is creamy and long with good concentration and length. Charming, evolved and voluptuous. Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésime 2000 2011/2020 Deep lemony golden developing colour. Wonderfully toasty, autolytic, gunflinty nose of ripe apples and pears, bread and fragrant floral notes. The nuanced, charming and appetising nose promises a lot for the palate. Full and smooth in the mouth with well-integrated fine mousse. Aromas continue as on the nose. Perfectly weighty, long and refreshing. Open and drinking wonderfully from now until 2020. 92 pts 95 pts 93 pts Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 1999 2011/2017 Beautiful salmon to onion skin colour. Toasty and complex nose of wild herbs and fragrant flowers. Wide and round on the weighty palate, which could use some more spine. Seductively creamy mousse and pronounced length. Early and easy drinking vintage. Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 2011/2020 Medium-deep lemony colour. Developed, wonderfully toasty and creamy nose with stylish coffee complexity. A wide open, vinous and rich palate with similar aromas on the nose. Silky soft mousse. An extremely harmonious and round wine with the house's sublime benchmark toastiness. We have tasted this wine a dozen times in the past year and only one bottle was worth less than 92 points. A great purchase today for enjoyment over the next ten years. Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie 1985 2011/2015 This three-year-old disgorgement was not our best bottle of Charlie 1985, as on other occasions it has reached as high as 96 points. This bottle showed its age with slight oxidation and drying fruit. One could still see it was once a great wine. Very deep, golden colour with slow, small-sized bubbles. Toasted almonds, honey, dried fruits and vanilla on the complex nose. The light mushroomy notes deduct from the appeal. Rich and vinous on the palate, with the finish slightly drying out.

Michelin Guide Three Stars San Francisco Chronicle Four Stars The Restaurant at Meadowoood Worth a Special Journey The Restaurant at Meadowood Chef Christopher Kostow

Relationships are core to life in Napa Valley. or the last half century, Napa Valley the original gathering place for the Valley's has provided the panorama for a burgeoning wine community, Meadowood unique way of life--directed by the has now become an international wine industry and acted out by a host of destination and boasts membership within local players. Wine is the thread weaving the the exclusive ranks of Relais & Chateaux. art of man with the Come for a visit. bounty of nature in Walk the fairways a complex pattern on which Auction of relationships-- Napa Valley has relationships that go raised more than $90 to the core of the million since the Valley's legendary first gavel was raised. way of life and set Mingle with the the stage for a story vintners and growers like no other. as they enjoy their The community club through sport that is Napa Valley activities, recreation, contributes to local and the pursuit of enterprise through lifelong wellness. its vast experience Dine on the private and deep-seated terrace of your relationships. In adguestroom or spend dition to grape growthe evening enjoying Master Sommelier Gilles de Chambure ers and wine makers, a meal prepared it includes agriculturalists, great chefs, som- by Michelin Three-Star chef Christopher meliers, maître d's, gallery owners, innkeep- Kostow in The Restaurant at Meadowood. ers and shop proprietors. All depend upon Spend a day exploring the wineries you've each other for their unique livelihood and longed to visit with Gilles de Chambure, lifestyle. Master Sommelier, whose sole role at For the past 46 years Meadowood Meadowood is to enhance guests' knowledge has served as the heart and soul of the and enjoyment of wine. winegrowing community--as a center for A stay at Meadowood offers you entry social and family life and as a second home into an extraordinary way of life. Capture for travelers from around the world wishing the magic of Napa Valley and develop your to immerse themselves in the region, its own relationship with the people that define wines, and its people. Founded in 1964 as this unparalleled experience. F the sporting life at meadowood The forested hillsides of Meadowood's two hundred fifty-acre valley slope to the cool green of the estate's nine-hole, walking golf course. Presiding over the tranquil fairways and the golf teaching facility is Resident Golf Professional Doug Pike. Meadowood's Resident Tennis Professional, Doug King, is one of the country's leading tennis teaching innovators. The founder of Acceleration Tennis, a revolutionary teaching system, King is leading the way in reinterpreting the traditional tennis model, working with players of all skill levels from beginner to professional. Between dining and wine experiences we invite you to stretch your legs with a game of golf or tennis. 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, California 94574 Tel (707) 968-3153 www.meadowood.com

36 The Best Accompaniment to Food Te x t : Ju h a L i h t o n e n F o o d ph o t o g r a ph y : G u i d o B i t t n e r P o r t r a i t s: P e k k a N u i k k i Champagne is the perfect beverage; the name alone evokes feelings. Champagne's luxury status elevates any moment like no other drink, and opening a bottle of champagne and popping the cork launches a celebration for most of us. It crowns any festive occasion and only a few think of it as a dinner companion. But it is at the dinner table that champagnes show their full scope as the world's best food beverage.

Andreas Larsson Creative Sommelier ­ Restaurant P&M Vänner (Växjö, Sweden) The World's Best Sommelier 2007 ompared to red and white wine, champagne is a more versatile beverage to accompany different foods because of its intense flavour, acidity and bubbly structure. The intensity generated through the extended yeast lees contact gives champagne the body that makes it a perfect partner, even for heavier dishes. Thanks to Champagne's cool growth environment the wines are high in acidity, which is a key factor when pairing wine and food. The carbon dioxide in the drink also `cuts' the greasiness of the portion, making the overall experience with heavier foods much lighter. The frothy structure also complements airy foods, such as a salty or sweet mousse. On top of these general characteristics typical to champagne, the variable champagne styles and sweetness levels also create an indefinite number of options when it comes to matching champagne and different foods. For the successful pairing of champagne and food it is essential to know and understand the styles of champagne. "Champagne is one of the greatest beverages to have with food. Of course it shows all of the characteristics of any great wine, with a remarkable freshness always present. Add to that the dimension of bubbles, those magic bubbles, which invigorate the palate and soothe our senses. Above all it is a fun wine. My best experience of the marriage of the two came after being crowned Europe's best sommelier in 2004. It was the food, champagne and the victory that formed a great emotional moment. We were served a very classic French dish ­ pigeon stuffed with duck liver and truffle, alongside the great 1988 Dom Ruinart Rosé. The champagne smacked the palate with its deep fruitiness and tantalised the nose with layers of truffle and autumn fruit. A perfect match for a perfect moment." Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 37 C

T Recognise champagne styles 38 he countless different champagnes are defined by overall styles which help consumers choose a product best suited to their taste. The styles can roughly be divided into three categories: non-vintage champagne, vintage champagne and prestige cuvée champagne. Each style is produced as both rosé and regular. These general categories also contain various styles based on the grapes used in the champagnes and the varying degrees of sweetness. The structure of champagne is based on three grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the latter two are red-skinned grapes. Pinot Noir gives champagne body, structure, acidity and berrylike flavours; Pinot Meunier, which is seldom used alone, gives champagne richness and fruitiness; while Chardonnay brings champagne a sophisticated, silky and creamy quality. The different blends of these three grape varieties affect the relative taste experiences, and most champagnes contain all three in various proportions. Champagnes produced with Chardonnay alone carry the term `blanc de blancs' on their labels. Champagnes made of Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier alone, or the two combined, are called `blanc de noirs'. All these aforementioned features form the base of combining different champagne styles with food. Enrico Bernardo Restaurateur ­ Restaurant Il Vino (Paris and Courchevel, France) The World's Best Sommelier 2004 Richard Juhlin Champagne Specialist "We have to remember champagne is a wine, so as with all wine it can be perfectly matched with food. However, at any given moment, we have to pay close attention to which kind of champagne we have, be it blanc de blancs, rosé, prestige cuvée, brut millésimée, etc. It is even possible to organise a complete lunch or dinner serving champagnes. In my experience, the most exciting marriage that we have experienced was a magnum Dom Pérignon Rosé 1978 served with roe-deer, chocolate flakes and redcurrant, accompanied with gnocchi potatoes and black truffle. It truly was a perfect marriage, with a lot of complexity, richness and persistence. Of course I would not suggest a champagne for a sweet dessert; if the champagne has some sweet characteristics, we can match it with some fruit." "A few years ago, very few chefs would have chosen champagne for anything else other than an aperitif. If you look at the development in the experimental and refined fine dining kitchen of today, the sublime and multifaceted combinations of flavours demand a subtle, refined wine, and no other type of wine fits that description better than champagne. The sharp acidity cuts like a knife through the fatty and creamy parts of a dish, while the soft tingling bubbles accentuate the most subtle details of the food. Personally, I never have champagne with sweet food, but very often skip dessert and enjoy an older champagne instead! The best combination for me was really old champagne and foie gras. The wine was Alfred Gratien 1953, and it was served, at le Vigneron in Reims, alongside duck liver terrine, brioche and a fig marmalade."

B Blanc de blancs for lighter dishes lanc de blancs champagnes, made of Chardonnay alone, are characterised by fresh acidity, a silky taste and overall lightness. They are a perfect match for lean and lighter foods prepared from structurally fine ingredients, such as scallops, crayfish and sweet-water fish. Thanks to their crispy and creamy character, blanc de blancs also pair superbly with foods that have a high umami content, such as mushrooms and shellfish. Non-vintage blanc de blancs, such as light Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, are an excellent aperitif and a great companion to light salads. Italian porcini, shellfish risottos and creamy mushroom or Jerusalem artichoke soups are a good match for vintage blanc de blancs with more character, such as Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2004. Heavier portions, such as lobster au gratin or fried whitefish with sautéed mushrooms, require more complex vintage or prestige cuvée versions, including Salon, Krug Clos du Mesnil and Jacques Selosse Substance. Philippe Jamesse Head sommelier ­ Restaurant Les Crayères (Reims, France) The Champagne region's most esteemed sommelier Two course menu for blanc de blancs: Ginger-marinated Grilled Tiger Prawns Poached Turbot with Green Asparagus "Champagne is an excellent match for food thanks to its unique, wellbalanced structure, which is based on its acidity, minerals, fruitiness and bubbles. I cannot think of a better combination than salty crayfish, marinated fish and sushi with a young blanc de blancs Grand Cru extra brut champagne." Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 39

C Robust blanc de noirs hampagnes based on dark grapes ­ Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier ­ are known as blanc de noirs champagnes and differ from blanc de blancs, thanks to their more robust and firmer structure. They can be paired with stronger flavours and heavier foods, including light meats ­ veal, pork, chicken or turkey would all be suitable. Examples of these include André Clouet Brut Réserve, De Venoge Blanc de Noirs and Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir. Fowl with more intense flavours, such as duck, goose, mallard, dove, willow grouse and quail, are complemented by vintage blanc de noirs with more character. Paul Bara Vintage would be a choice, while Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises or Krug Clos d'Ambonnay, both prestige cuvée blanc de noirs, would work equally well. Two course menu for blanc de noirs: Oxtail soup Duck à l'Orange 40 B Omnivorous blend champagnes lended champagnes represent a combination of several grape varieties, and thus they possess the qualities of both blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs. The more Chardonnay there is in a blend, the better it combines with the lighter flavours. Champagnes with more Pinot Noir are better suited to richer and heavier flavours; brands with a higher percentage of Pinot Noir include Gosset, Philipponnat, Krug, Bollinger and Veuve Clicquot. The world's most luxurious prestige cuvée champagnes ­ Piper-Heidsieck Rare, Armand de Brignac Brut, Dom Pérignon and Krug Vintage ­ are all examples of this kind of blend. Blended champagnes are produced in different degrees of sweetness, from fully dry to sweet. Medium dry and medium sweet champagnes are at their best at the dinner table, complementing both goose and duck liver dishes served as appetizers, as well as crayfish-based sweet and sour items and salty and sour sheep's milk cheeses. The blended champagnes with the most sweetness are also an excellent match for fresh desserts. Two course menu for non-vintage champagne: Moules Marinière Lobster Thermidor

Arzak 41 Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d

R Serge Dubs Head sommelier ­ Restaurant Auberge de l'Ill (Illhausern/Alsace, France) The World's Best Sommelier 1989 Rosé champagnes ­ Richer champagnes 42 "I will begin by stating that champagne is a unique drink in the world. It represents an exclusive lifestyle and celebration ­ I love champagne. Matching champagne and food requires an understanding of the different champagne styles and an appreciation of food. For example, traditional straightforward and crispy dry blanc de blancs are an excellent match with marinated fish and sushi, while creamier and more full-bodied blanc de blancs are suitable for creamy dishes and even light meats. Depending on the grape blend, vintage champagnes are more complex and generous than non-vintage ones, and thus an excellent match for lobster, crab and even dove. I have had the fortune to experience many excellent pairings of champagne and food, but one of the best was the combination of partridge and 1990 Dom Ruinart Rosé." osé champagnes are more robust in character than others, and have an inkling of tannins which are usually mild but add more texture to the palate. The modest tannins in the wines offer good possibilities of matching rosé champagnes with red meat and mild game. The best and most complex prestige cuvée rosés are an excellent choice for wildfowl served with berries and creamy side dishes. The wines have enough body for the strong flavour of wildfowl and, together with the creamy additions, the berries round off the taste of the champagnes. Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé and Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé represent the more elegant end of rosés. Dom Pérignon Rosé and Cuvée William Deutz Rosé are more full-bodied prestige cuvée rosés, while La Grande Dame Rosé and Bollinger Grande Année Rosé are among the more robust rosés. Two course menu for Rosé champagnes: Vitello Tonnato Chicken Suprême e can also list, as a separate group, the so-called late-disgorged champagnes, which have been left to mature longer in the bottle with yeast lees. These champagnes are characterised by yeastiness and a robust richness generated by the long contact with yeast lees, rather than by the features of the grape varieties. They are often very dry, because mature champagne no longer needs much added sugar to round off its taste. Their tastes are complex, nutty and full-bodied, rather than crispy or fruity, and are at their best when accompanied by food such as veal flavoured with truffles or pork fillet seasoned with nut oil. The best known late-disgorged champagnes are Bollinger R.D. (Recemment Dégorgé), Jacquesson DT (Dégorgement Tardif ) and Dom Pérignon Oenothéque. W Late-disgorged champagnes ­ Stronger flavours Two course menu for late-disgorged champagnes: Black Truffle and Quail Consommé en Croûte Sole Meunière

Guy Savoy Restaurateur & Chef de Cuisine ­ Restaurant Guy Savoy (Paris, France and Las Vegas, US) "Champagne behaves the same as any other wine and can be combined with food. My best experiences have been roasted baby turbot with St George's mushrooms, served with Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 1990; as well as bread and butter chocolate and pepper pudding with a champagne granite, served with Billecart-Salmon Rosé." ature champagnes represent another distinct style in champagne. There is no classification for mature champagnes, but we can talk about a mature champagne when it is at least fifteen years old. These wines are complex and vinous. They typically have a nutty and mushroom-like flavour and a hint of caramel, truffles, dried fruit and honey. They often seem drier than what would be expected given the markings on the label. In other words, a 1960s champagne marked `sec' seems more like `brut', because the sense of fruitiness disappears with age. As the term `mature' refers to long storage, the champagnes can be non-vintage, vintage or prestige cuvée champagnes. They provide an interesting match for dishes with a long cooking time, which accentuates the flavours of the ingredients. Examples of these might be roasted light meats, mushroom risottos and soups. Mature champagnes are also a good companion for cheese. M Mature champagnes Richard Geoffroy Chef de cave ­ Dom Pérignon (Epernay, France) "The best feature of champagne is the balanced structure, which makes it an excellent match for various foods. The pairing of wine and food is all about texture and the balance of flavours, not aromas. When we understand the balance of flavours, we can come up with an endless number of combinations for champagne and food. Champagnes even complement spicy foods better than any other wine. An example of this is Dom Pérignon and green Thai curry, which is a surprisingly good match. It is hard to single out one combination, although I must say that Dom Pérignon 1999 with Mexican mole negro is an unbeatable match. Mole negro is an ancient dish with over twenty-five ingredients, and is one of the most complex dishes in the world but it works perfectly with Dom Pérignon 1999, which further complements this dish thanks to its mineral style." In Geoffroy's experience there is one chef in the world who masters the pairing of champagne and food better than any other, and he is Tetsuya Wakuda, who runs his eponymous restaurant in Sydney, Australia. Among sommeliers, Geoffroy praises Philippe Jamesse, the head sommelier of Château Les Crayères, who he considers to be the best champagne sommelier in the world. Out of the winners of the world's best sommelier title, he mentions Andreas Larsson as a master of combining champagne and food. Two course menu for mature champagnes: Jamón Ibérico Bellota Confit de Canard with Porcini Risotto Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 43

S Degrees of sweetness in champagne the creaminess of the mousse. That was truly amazing. Once again, I was given an example of how versatile champagne is with food." weetness is a key element when matching champagne and food. Each of the champagne styles can be produced with various degrees of sweetness, although most producers only make sweeter versions of non-vintage champagnes. Sugar is added during the final production stage and, depending on the amount of added sugar, the champagne is labelled brut nature or non-dosé (fully dry), extra brut (very dry), brut (dry), extra-sec (dryish), sec (medium-dry), demi-sec (medium sweet), or doux (sweet). When choosing a champagne for food, its degree of sweetness is, surprisingly enough, the first thing that needs to be considered in order to guarantee a balanced experience. The more sweetness there is in a dish, the more it makes the champagne seem drier and more austere, and it should thus be paired with a sweeter champagne. Liver dishes, for example, are often served with sweet condiments, which is why they should be accompanied by a sweeter demi-sec champagne. The same applies to such dishes as sweet-and-sour crayfish tail and fresh fruit served as a dessert. 44 Champagne types and residual sugar Brut Nature (or pas dosé, dosage zéro): 0 g/l Extra-brut: 0­6 g/l Brut: < 12g/l Extra-sec: 12­17 g/l Sec: 17­32 g/l Demi-sec: 32­50 g/l he key to the perfect food and wine match is based in the balance and harmony of basic tastes ­ sour, salty, sweet, bitter and umami. All types of champagnes get along well with sourness and saltiness, and are also a good match with very bitter and umami-rich flavours. Unlike many other wine types champagne can handle the sweetness. The biggest challenge for wine when balancing with food, is sweetness. It is thus a good starting point to assess the degree of sweetness in a dish before selecting a champagne to serve with it. Sweetness in food is hazardous for wine, because it accentuates the wine's sourness. It is hard to find a champagne that will match sweeter desserts, because consumers have favoured dry champagnes for a hundred years and, with only a few exceptions, sweet champagnes are no longer produced. One worthy example of a sweet champagne is the hard-to-find Doyard La Libertine Doux, which has up to 60 g/l of residual sugar. T Wh at n e e d s t o b e considered when pairing champagne and food? Thomas Rode Andersen Chef de Cuisine ­ Restaurant Kong Hans (Copenhagen, Denmark) "Champagne is one of the most versatile wines with food. The combination of high acidity and bubbles gives champagne a unique freshness, which is one of the most important points when drinking wine with food ­ to become refreshed and feel like eating and drinking more! The flavour profile is also quite special, as the lees contact and bottle maturation add complexity and character, resulting in an unparalleled drinking experience. I usually rate it highest with dishes that focus on earthy, umami-rich and non-fruity notes, because champagne combined with this taste direction not only shows its great structure of acidity, but also enhances the flavour of the food, due mainly to its own flavour profile. I have had several amazing experiences with champagne and food but I always return to that December night at home after a busy evening at the restaurant, where we enjoyed carpaccio of Danish beef with chestnuts, parmesan cheese and the first truly ripe black truffles of the season. We paired this heavenly meal with Dom Pérignon 2000. The `mushroomy' character of the Dom Pérignon and its intensity and richness married perfectly with the raw meat and the truffles. The parmesan gave it all an extra boost, given it is one of the best taste intensifiers of all, and the discrete nutty flavour of the chestnuts magnified Daniel Boulud Chef-restaurateur ­ Restaurant Daniel (New York), Bar Boulud (New York, London), Café Boulud (New York, Palm Beach), DB Bistro Moderne (New York, Miami, Vancouver), DBGB Kitchen&Bar (New York), Bar Pleiades (New York), Lumière (Vancouver), Maison Boulud (Beijing) "There are many ways to combine champagne and food, and it is always subjective. Champagnes come in different styles, but they also behave differently as they age. Foods enjoyed with champagne should be salty, lemony and creamy. Champagnes are also a good match with exotic, modestly spicy foods. The best combination? Bring me a bottle of champagne and I will tell you what I would serve with it and cook it for you!"

Photo: Ditte Isager Philippe Mille Chef de Cuisine ­ Restaurant Les Crayères (Reims, France) "Champagne is a very interesting drink, which offers important flavours on the palate. This makes it easy to marry with a number of salty dishes that contain bitter or acidic flavours. One of the most appreciated dishes from our list has been roasted bass served with a carrot and orange jus, green peas, and celery flavoured with ginger. This is served with Champagne De Sousa cuvée Des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs Millésimé, which has a spicy, slightly fatty and smoky character." ourness in food flattens wine's acidity. Because champagne is naturally high in acidity, sour flavours in food round out the taste of champagne nicely. Portions with tomato and bell pepper, fruit and berries, vinegar, lemon or wine are examples of more sour dishes, and any champagne is a good match for them. Saltiness in food is an excellent partner to any wine, but above all champagne. Together with acidity, it creates a strongly appetising sensation. Salt also cuts through the tannins and sourness in wines, both of which can be found in rosé champagnes to a certain degree. Latedisgorged champagnes, in turn, may emit bitterness because of their yeastiness. The most common salty foods are salty meats and fish, olives, air-cured meats, cheeses and roe. Sweetness in food makes a wine seem less sweet and adds sourness to its taste. This accentuates the sharp acidity of champagnes and calls for a sweeter champagne. Sugar, jams, honey, cocoa, fruit, berries, fried onions, bell peppers and cream bring sweetness to a dish. Bitterness and umami emphasise the `hard' flavours in wine ­ spiciness, tannins and oakiness ­ that are not common to champagnes. Both bitterness and umami, sensed at the back of the mouth, are balanced by acidity and sweetness. This is why champagnes, particularly sweeter varieties, are excellent partners to bitter and umami-like tastes. Bitterness can be added to a dish using green vegetables, fruit, berries, chocolate, nuts and blackened ingredients. Umami, in turn, is present in all products that are high in protein, such as mushrooms, cheese, meats, fish, seaweed, shellfish, soy and nuts. S Balanced flavours Rene Redzepi Restaurateur & Chef de Cuisine ­ Restaurant Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark) The World's Best Restaurant 2009 & 2010 "Looking at the task with Noma-goggles on, I must say that champagne with food is the perfect marriage. Champagne has the minerality, acidity and elegance that are so needed at Noma. The combinations of champagnes and our dishes seem to work better than any other pairings. The champagnes we serve are grower champagnes that produce champagnes with personality expressed by terroir, and which are often made biodynamically. The finest experience at Noma is fried egg, sunny side up, with the sauce of fresh ramson onions, served with spinach and herbs from the field sand forests. This is served with Laherte Les Vignes d'Autrefois Extra Brut 2004. The magic of the combination is multifold. The intensiveness and richness of the dish needs to be balanced with the intensity and acidity of the champagne. It is exactly these features that are present in the terroirdriven champagne of Laherte. The green elements of the dish need a counterpart, and the minerality found in champagne provides such a perfectly-matched partner. The Laherte champagne, with its rustic flavours from Pinot Meunier, and the intense, elegant and mineral notes deriving from the 60-year-old vines, is a perfect companion to this dish, which is packed full of complex flavours." Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 45

here are many ways to create a champagne menu. As champagne is highly prestigious, it should naturally be the clear focus of the menu, and a good starting point is to decide on the champagne theme for the menu first. The options are a luxurious menu with a different style of champagne for each dish, or a simpler menu built around just one champagne. The latter requires more insight into the flavours on the menu. T I Creating a champagne menu in abundance. One such example of this is crayfish `Toast Skagen' laced with sour cream. Those seeking more intensity could choose a blended vintage champagne for this course. Soup From a blended champagne one can move on to the world of generous blanc de noirs, produced using only dark grapes. Masculine and robust blanc de noirs are excellent when matched with greasy fish and meat dishes, but at this point of the menu they are also a pleasant companion to creamy and hearty soups. A creamy celery and champagne soup, for example, complements blanc de noirs champagnes nicely. Warm fish course One champagne throughout the meal When a warm fish dish is served, the food begins to include more body and intensity, and this is why it is recommended to favour vintage champagnes with them. If the key ingredient is more delicate and the flavours of the dish are softer, a vintage blanc de blancs is a good pairing. If the dish emits robust flavours and plenty of greasiness, a vintage blend champagne is a better option, because it cuts through the dish's natural oils. An example of a heavier portion is fried angler with beetroot purée and butter-saffron sauce. 46 f you want to serve the same champagne throughout the meal, it is wise to select the champagne based on the sweetness of the dessert. If the dessert is crispy and only slightly sweet, medium-dry sec champagne might work. If the dessert has not yet been decided, a good suggestion is to serve fresh strawberries or a crispy and less-sweet lemon sorbet. On the other hand, demi-sec champagne is a safer choice. It allows for slightly more sweetness in the dessert, although not to a significant degree. Medium-sweet champagne works well as an aperitif with salty appetizers, and it can stand up to more sweetness in other dishes. It is also a matches well with salty hard cheeses than dry champagne. Warm meat course When seeking a suitable champagne for meat dishes, it is advisable to turn to the more complex and intense prestige cuvée rosés. As they have body and intensity, and even a hint of tannins, they stand up well to meat courses. Meat dishes like wildfowl, veal and lamb are excellent partners for vintage rosé champagne, although heavier steaks should not be served with champagne. T A menu with different champagne styles Cheese Semi-dry sec is a good choice for mild, creamy and salty cheeses, such as Taleggio and Brie, and hard and salty sheep's milk cheeses like Pecorino and Manchego. Mature champagnes are also a good option, but cheese should not be served with sweet condiments, otherwise the champagne's taste will seem very sour. his is the most festive type of champagne dinner, and also gives diners an understanding of how versatile a drink champagne is. The aperitif of a champagne menu should be a crispy, young champagne with high acidity, which waters the mouth and wakes the appetite. This should ideally be supported by serving small and salty snacks with it, such as roe, cold-smoked reindeer or cold-smoked salmon. When designing the actual menu, it is good to keep in mind the philosophy of serving that applies to all wines ­ the menu starts with lighter and drier wines and progresses to the more full-bodied and sweeter ones. A six-course champagne menu is easiest to build by first selecting the champagne types and styles. Dessert The last part of a delicious dinner is often disastrous for champagne. It is best to choose a sweet doux-type champagne for dessert, if available. It is, unfortunately, often hard to find even a semi-sweet demi-sec champagne. The dessert on a champagne menu should be fresh and not very sweet, meaning fresh strawberries with whipped cream or a light and fluffy mint-flavoured dark chocolate mousse with very little sugar would be ideal. Aperitif A good aperitif is a light non-vintage blanc de blancs, which nicely reflects the elegant and seductive nature of Chardonnay. Friends of more full-bodied character can start with a vintage champagne instead. Appetizer Following the aperitif it is time to a slightly richer styled, non-vintage dry blended champagne, which contains all three key grape varieties. The starter could be a light shellfish dish that has acidity and freshness hether the champagne menu is carried out with one or several champagnes, it is sure to evoke festive feelings in the guests invited. Arranging a champagne dinner is one of the best ways to celebrate a special occasion with important guests. It brings luxury to ordinary life with little effort; guests will certainly remember an evening that consists of a champagne menu for a long time. The host or a hostess can make the evening into an interesting adventure by also acknowledging the fascinating stories behind the different champagne brands. > W

Aperitif Ruinart Blanc de Blancs (non-vintage blanc de blancs) Fried scallops and warm cucumber tagliatelle Jacquesson Cuvée No 734 Brut (non-vintage blend) Celery and champagne soup De Venoge Blanc de Noirs (non-vintage blanc de noirs) Fried angler, beetroot purée and butter-saffron sauce Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut (non-vintage rosé) Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 47 Menu ideas Peter Liem Wine critic and Founder of ChampagneGuide.net Fried fillet of veal, clear port wine sauce and truffle-potato purée Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2000 (prestige cuvée) Brie de Meaux Veuve Clicquot Sec (non-vintage sec) Fresh strawberries and white chocolate froth Doyard La Libertine (prestige cuvée doux) Espresso Marc de Gosset "Champagne's high acidity and low alcohol make it an ideal wine for food, and I do think that the bubbles work to its advantage as well, as they help to refresh the palate. On top of that, there is such a diverse range of champagne styles and weights to choose from; everything from a wispy, delicate blanc de blancs to a full-bodied pinot noir from the Montagne de Reims, and that allows you to find a champagne to partner nearly anything. It should not be restricted to just aperitifs and shellfish. The best champagne and food experience I had was on my birthday in 2004, when I took a magnum of 1979 Pierre Gimonnet Millésime de Collection to Prune, one of my favourite restaurants in New York. No visit to Prune is complete without tasting the delicious sweetbreads, which are breaded, deep-fried and served with a slice of bacon and then paired with a sauce made of lemon, capers and loads of butter. It is the best sweetbread dish I have eaten anywhere in the world, and it was sublime with the Gimonnet. The wine's complex, mature richness perfectly complemented the richness of the dish, while its brisk acidity and intense chalkiness provided an energetic and refreshing contrast." One champagne throughout the meal: Veuve Clicquot Sec (non-vintage sec) Toast Skagen Cream of celery soup Ginger-marinated fried salmon and mushroom risotto Pecorino cheese Champagne sorbet and caramelised lemon peel Espresso Tex t: Ver na Ka un is t o- Fe od or ow T he Champagne region has a very colourful history, punctuated by a nearly endless succession of conquests. It is also known for a culinary paradox: due to its nutrient-poor soil, the divine drink's home region has one of the least exceptional culinary histories in France. There was never time to create anything special in the local cuisine before the next invaders arrived. The wine used in the traditional dishes of the Champagne region had no fizz until the late 1600s. The finest feasts consisted of pork, offal and cabbage, happily sizzling together. They were served with pea purée. Some of the older French generation may point to the traditional delicacy "champagne kraut" ­ after all Alsace, the promised land of sauerkraut, is not far. To prepare it, you would make a traditional sauerkraut to serve with pork hock and bratwurst, but instead of cooking it in Alsace wine, use champagne. It is no wonder, then, that champagne is now used in dishes as mundane as pea soup. It is simply culinary history repeating itself in today's trends. T he Biscuit de Reims was created specifically for enjoyment with champagne in the 1690s. These biscuits are magically baked in the after-heat of a wood oven ­ first to cook them and then to dry them. That led to their very name, with bis-cuit meaning twice-baked. As any good recipe demands, these biscuits are still made in the Reims area using the original recipe. Originally white, these airy biscuits later became famous for their light crimson colour. Reims biscuits are still popular as a canapé with champagne aperitifs. The feminine way to enjoy them is to dip the biscuit in the champagne before biting into it, then daintily sipping some of the bubbly to wash it down.

JOIN THE CLUB! Richard Juhlin, by many regarded as the world's foremost champagne expert, has sampled and evaluated close to 7,000 champagnes. At www.champagneclub.com, members of The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club can login and, using a personal code, access Mr Juhlin's unique digital library where all evaluated champagnes are listed, described and rated from 0 to 100. More than the sheer size of this vast database, its uniqueness also lies in Mr Juhlin's vivid use of language and his ability to recognize and pinpoint not only the present but also the future state of the champagne at hand. The latter means that he awards the champagne an additional grade, where he estimates the potential greatness, with optimal aging. As soon as Mr Juhlin tries a new champagne, his tasting notes are downloaded into the database and made available to club members. The database engine allows for different ways of searching for a champagne, such as alphabetically, by producer, top 100, etc. On the website, the member password will also give access to Mr Juhlin's travel articles, descriptions of champagne producers, suggestions on where to dine, and much more. Membership in The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club gives you access to the on-line member pages ­ but it also includes you in a global group of people who truly love champagne and who can expect to benefit from more and more advantages as the club grows. In several cities the member card already grants its bearer advantages at "champagne friendly" restaurants, special presentations of hard-to-find champagnes, online tastings, etc. In four Scandinavian cities there are also exclusive Richard Juhlin Champagne Bars, as well as annual Richard Juhlin Champagne Dinners offered to members boasting the special black membership card. News and information is continually updated on the website and made available to members in 43 countries around the world. Join The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club at www.champagneclub.com for only 75 euro annually - and use the bonus code 'FINECHAMP' for a VIP discount INFO@CHAMPAGNECLUB.COM | WWW.CHAMPAGNECLUB.COM

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Text: Kavita Faiella Kavita Faiella, sommelier and Fine Magazines' contributor, is a modern globetrotter who has worked with wine in several countries and cultures. In this article she discusses her experiences from different vantage points and shares her favourite spots of her home town, Sydney. Fi n e C i t y 51

When I was very young, my mother was told by a Sri Lankan astrologer that I would live a life travelling the world. I think this led her to believe that I would grow up to be a diplomat, journalist, or something similar, I am quite positive that sommelier was the last thing that she would have imagined for me. Having been born in Sri Lanka to Australian/Italian parents and given an Indian name, I guess I was somewhat destined from the beginning to live a life abroad. Fast forward 27 years and I have just relocated to Hong Kong, working as the wine director of The Pressroom Group, having spent the last five years working in Asia. With Hong Kong becoming significantly more important by the day in the global wine world, it seemed only natural for my next move to be here. I feel like every country that I have lived and worked in has taught me something about wine and its appreciation, but more importantly about people and culture and that beauty can be found in many different forms. Kavita Faiella Prior to arriving in Hong Kong I worked as the regional cellar master for Amanresorts, where I was responsible for the wine programmes in Southeast Asia and latterly South Asia as well. I remember designing the wine list for Amansara in Siem Reap, Cambodia and being inspired by the giant banyan trees that at first seemed to have destroyed many of the magnificent temples in the area. It was only on subsequent visits, however, that I realised these ancient trees were holding many of these temples together and make the experience even more memorable. 52 I have always loved the expression "when two parts make a greater whole", as it is the ultimate aim of many of the world's great winemakers and chefs: to have the experience of the final product be far greater than the sum of its individual components. However, it was very special to see this philosophy not in the glass or on the plate but in a temple. It is in moments like this that I feel very grateful to be doing the job that I do in such diverse locations. It is impossible not to feel inspired in places such as the Angkor Wat temple, and whilst working at Amansara I found myself reading about Khmer history as much as possible. I was very excited to come across The Customs of Cambodia, an account written between 1296 and 1312. It is the only description of Angkor during its time of splendour and tells of everyday life and how people lived within the Khmer empire. This text talks of a mother wine made from honey, water and leaves of plants, served in goblets made of white metal and gold. In these culturally rich settings it is always special to find a reference to wine, as it allows us to reflect on the role that it plays in society today and how it was also a part of life for the people throughout the centuries before us. The wine list of Amansara was named A Thousand Intertwined Branches, as an homage to the beautiful banyan and the complex history of the Khmer people. Cambodia remains one of my favourite places in the world today. From South East Asia I was relocated to India, where I was based in Delhi for two years. My time in India not only provided me with yet another culturally overwhelming experience, but also a new perspective of the wine world. It became very obvious that Asia was becoming the new wine frontier, with countries such as China and India providing endless possibilities based purely on sheer consumer numbers. India's increasing interest in wine can be seen as a reflection of the trends that are sweeping Indian society today: globalisation, a level of international sophistication, and the recognition that the middle class of this country is a powerful force to be reckoned with. Wine is not, however, just a symbol of the transformation of the middle class, but also one of social change. One of the most obvious trends I noticed living in India is that because the wine culture is very much in its infancy, many of the stereotypes that often surround the world of wine do not exist as they do in many other wellestablished wine drinking countries; one such trend being that world of wine is dominated by men. In India, the masculine arena is reserved for whisky drinking, hence it is becoming more apparent that women may in fact come to dominate the wine arena. A clear majority of wine purchases are made by women, making it very possible that the female palate may shape the future wine culture of India. As a female sommelier, I couldn't be more pleased. Living in so many countries that are in the development stages of their wine culture is trying at times and leaves me feeling like somewhat of a nomad. I do, however, still definitely think of Australia as my home and plan to return one day. The food scene is great in Australia, and I still get all of the Australian food and wine magazines every month. Some of the places I have lived have been very remote ­ like the Maldives ­ but I have always made an effort to keep up to date with what is happening in the wine world and the major food cities. I can tell you where to get the best gelato in Rome, patatas bravas in Madrid, dosa in Delhi and dim sum in Hong Kong, but most of all, I love telling people where to get the best of everything in Sydney. Below are the must-visit-establishments in my favourite city in the world! >

favourites by Kavita Favourite Wine Store ­ Ultimo Wine Centre UWC is a Sydney institution and is owned and run by Jon Osbeiston ­ a man that I can say is officially my favourite person in the Australian wine industry. Jon has forgotten more about wine than I will ever know and taught me more than I can ever thank him for. There is not a serious wine drinker in the country that does not know JO. He has created the wine lovers' ultimate wine store, cluttered in the best possible way ­ with Richbourg and all things wonderfully vinous. Pop in on Saturday when he opens up some of the city's best wine that you can taste for free. 99 Jones St, Ultimo 2007 www.ultimowinecentre.com.au Favourite Breakfast ­ Kazbah on Darling This is a weekend-only institution: crowded and loud. There is real Turkish delight, served in nutstudded sweet couscous with stewed rhubarb and cardamom milk; French toast is served with figs and double cream; and the killer Bloody Mary is made with Harissa. 379 Darling St, Balmain 2041 www.kazbah.com.au Favourite Wine Bar ­ Love, Tilly Devine LTD is one of the new wave of exciting wine bars, changing the way that Sydneysiders drink and dine. The location is truly obscure ­ the former stockroom of the Best Cellars bottle shop ­ and is entered from an alleyway off an alleyway, but do not be put off as it is worth the search. The food is good and the list is obscure and esoteric; the place that every sommelier wishes was around the corner. 91 Crown La, Darlinghurst 2010 www.lovetillydevine.com Marque Favourite Lunch ­ Marque One of the best kept secrets in town is Mark Best's Friday Prix Fixe lunch menu. Well, so secret it is not, but a must-do it is. As Australia's 2010 best chef and his Marque the 2011 best restaurant ­ Mark Best is truly at the top of his game. His food is divine and creativity comparable to an Alice in Wonderland adventure; the sauternes custard is to die for. No culinary visit to Sydney is complete without having sat at a Marque table. 4/5 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills 2010 www.marquerestaurant.com.au Love, Tilly Devine Fi n e C i t y 53 Kazbah

Favourite Dinner ­ Sepia Restaurant and Wine Bar Not only has chef Martin Benn just been named 2011's best chef in Australia, the wine list at Sepia was named Best New Wine List in Australia and is equally as impressive as the food. Headed by star sommelier Rodney Setter, this eclectic list has been designed to pair perfectly with Benn's food, which Rodney describes as being classically based, subtle and texturally diverse. I recommend that you try and book for Saturday's degustation menu. 201 Sussex St, Darling Park 2000 www.sepiarestaurant.com.au Favourite Anytime ­ Sopra by Fratelli Fresh Of all of the places mentioned in my favourites, Sopra is what I crave and miss most. A providore first, owner Barry McDonald has been supplying Sydney's best restaurants and chefs for many years. In 2004 Barry opened the doors of Fratelli to the public, and the rest is history. There is still a queue down the stairs for a table at the original Sopra in Waterloo, with two more establishments now in Potts Point and Walsh Bay. Chef Andy Bunn does magical things with everything from zucchini flowers to fennel, and no Fratelli experience is complete without his 54 savoy cabbage salad or polenta with gorgonzola and portobello mushrooms. And make sure to leave some room for the banoffee pie. 7 Danks St, Waterloo 2017 www.fratellifresh.com.au Franck Moreau Favourite Sommelier ­ Franck Moreau As the group sommelier of Merivale, Franck is a busy man. You can most often find him at the group's three hatted restaurant, Est. As the name suggests, Franck is French; he is from Macon in Burgundy and has worked everywhere, from La Tour d'Argent in Paris to Marcus Waring at The Savoy Grill in London. Sydney is very lucky to have him and I would recommend you pay him a visit the next time you are in town. Franck.moreau@merivale.com Favourite Coffee ­ Single Origin Roasters From exotic foreign micro-plots to local lots in Australia, and barrel-aged to freshly harvested beans, this is a serious coffee café. They also brew their own pale ale for when you are feeling a little thirstier. 60­64 Resevoir St, Surry Hills 2010 www.singleoriginroasters.com.au Sepia bar

The world's oldest Champagne e for sale! e! WHAT: The worlds only dedicated international champagne auction. Two of the world's oldest champagne bottles for sale will be auctioned out to the highest bidder. WHERE: Alandica Kultur & Kongress, Mariehamn, Åland, Finland. WHEN: Auction on Friday the 3rd of June, 2011 at 15:00. Other Champagnethemed activities Thursday - Saturday. HOW: By plane or ferry to Mariehamn from Stockholm,Turku and Helsinki. To reserve your place at the auction, send an email to info@ackerwines.com For more information about the auction, visit www.visitaland.com/champagne For information about other activities on Åland, email info@turist-konferens.ax

H A C K E T T. C O M E S S E N T I A L LY BRITISH

58 Te xt :M ar tin W ill ia m sM W C Tim ha Tr e m av pa ell gn er e s Last year, the discovery of a cache of champagnes entombed in a shipwreck near the Åland Islands in Finland sent a thrill of excitement through the global wine community. Of particular interest were their remarkable age and the fact that, when tasted, they were not only palatable but pronounced to be in surprisingly good condition. At around 180 years of age, these champagnes are among the oldest tasted in recent times. Their only rival is a bottle of 1825 Perrier-Jouët, sourced directly from the Maison's own museum stock and tasted in 2009. Few cellars could be regarded as being superior to the deep chalk caves of Champagne, but fifty metres below the surface of the Baltic Sea should definitely put the c.1830s shipwreck in the running. So, what is it about this particular "cellar" that made it so special? And why would champagne destined for the Finnish market of that era age so well in these conditions? Let's don our deep-sea diving suits and explore that ultracool cellar located just off the Finnish coast.

"Suspended animation" is a familiar concept for many Fi n e S c i e n c e 59 of us ­ sci-fi images of dormant time-travellers hurtling through deep space towards unknown destinations immediately spring to mind. So too do thoughts of those brave individuals who have chosen to be cryogenically preserved to await a better future, when the common diseases of ageing are overcome. It appears that medical research is quietly achieving real progress in this field, and so one day, such seemingly wild dreams might yet become reality. A little closer, there is also the interesting idea of slowing time in the context of wine. A wine bottle can be likened to a "time capsule" that reflects the climatic, cultural and cellaring conditions leading up to the time of its consumption; thus wine is one of the true time travellers. As a wine cellar, the seabed would be an environment where, thanks to extremes of pressure and temperature, time practically stands still for some processes, and hence the idea of suspended animation is not quite so far-fetched. And indeed, the capacity of wine to survive extraordinary periods of maturation in such favourable conditions was demonstrated quite convincingly late last year, by the 19th-century champagnes raised carefully from the icy depths of the Baltic Sea. The champagnes were described as exhibiting intense golden yellow hues with grey-brown reflections. They displayed surprising freshness, and discernable aromas of peach and linden blossom, peat, tobacco and mushroom. On the palate, still-brisk acidity was balanced by very high levels of sweetness, in keeping with the style favoured by the northern European markets of the era. In summary, the wines were judged to be in good condition, and far more youthful in appearance and taste than would be expected given their venerable age. Clearly, they had been preserved in a form of suspended animation by their unusual storage conditions, which differ from the traditional subterranean cellar in several respects. Four main factors contribute to the superior conditions of an underwater cellar located so close to the Arctic Circle, at 60° north of the equator. At 50 metres' depth, the temperature remains quite stable at around 5 degrees Celsius. The static pressure is very close to 5 atmospheres and the ambient light level is very low. Finally, all these conditions remain quite constant year round, and are unlikely to have varied significantly over the course of almost two hundred years.

Chill Factor factor controlling the rate of wine maturation in our submarine cellar is the low temperature. The chemical processes involved in ageing include oxidation, polymerisation, slow Maillard reactions between sugars and amino acids, and the formation of esters through the combination of organic acids with alcohols and phenolic compounds. Most of these processes involve the establishment of chemical equilibria among the many reactions occurring simultaneously in the complex solution that is champagne. Temperature influences the rate at which these equilibria are established, as well as the forward impetus for many of the reactions that are irreversible. A value known as the Q10 temperature coefficient is the ratio between the rates of a given reaction measured at a temperature difference of 10 °C. For many of the ageing processes in wine, the Q10 is slightly higher than 2, meaning that decreasing the ambient temperature of wine storage by 10 °C slows the ageing process to less than half the rate. The impact of this effect is clear: compared with a typical good-quality cellar in which the ambient temperature is around 12 - 14 °C, the relative "chemical age" of a wine stored at around 4 °C for any significant time period would be less than half. This would mean that a bottle of our 180-year old shipwreck champagne would equate more closely to an 80or 90-year old bottle of a similar wine stored in a typical champagne collector's cellar, or maybe a centenarian bottle stored in the "ideal" conditions of the chalk caves deep under Champagne. Perfect darkness main feature of the submarine cellar is the very low ambient light, which would also favour the preservation of the wine against the ravages of time. Light, particularly at the higher-energy blue-violet and ultraviolet frequencies, carries enough energy to initiate certain reactions in wine, many of them involved in ageing processes. Others generate unsavoury sulphur-related characters. Although the light-filtering effects of water remove the longer (red) wavelengths and leave the blue wavelengths to penetrate well below the ocean surface, nonetheless the wine would have been safe from harm. The shipwreck's depth of fifty metres, the location of the bottles within the hold of the vessel and the deposition of sediment onto the bottles over time all would have protected the champagne from exposure to the damaging effects of light. Freedom from noise and vibration was probably a fourth factor contributing to their excellent preservation. And finally, the salinity of the water in the area of the Gulf of Bothnia in which the shipwreck was found is much lower than that found in the open ocean, due to the long-term influx of fresh water from the sizeable rainfall catchments surrounding the Baltic. The low salt concentration may have had little impact on the maturation of the champagnes, but at least it would have reduced the risk of salt ingress if any of the corks had failed, which apparently did occur in some bottles. So far we have covered the external factors contributing to the excellent condition of our champagne time capsules in the Baltic Sea. What of the internal factors ­ the composition of the wine? T he primary T he third 60 Pressure inside and outside is pressure, which increases by 1 atmosphere (approximately 100 kilopascals or 14 pounds per square inch) for each 10 metres of depth below sea level. The five extra atmospheres of pressure acting on the champagne bottles in the Åland shipwreck located at 50 metres' depth would be very close to their internal pressure due to the second fermentation, assuming the classic champagne process of tirage has not changed appreciably over the course of two centuries. This fact suggests that there would be no pressure differential driving the very gradual loss of internal pressure to the outside, though to my knowledge nobody has tested this hypothesis - at least over an experimental time frame of 180 years. With regard to the impact of high pressure on the actual ageing processes occurring within the bottles, the effects of pressure on the rates of chemical reactions in solution are complex and a little beyond the scope of this article. Suffice to say that the complexity of the solution would make modelling the processes very difficult; I will leave that analysis for another time. T he second major factor distinguishing our unique cellar Inside the bottle that champagne is marked by high levels of acidity, low pH, moderate alcohol and, importantly, favourably low concentrations of phenolic compounds that are major substrates for oxidative ageing. It also contains small but significant concentrations of a number of components derived from the extended presence of yeast cells during the tirage period, which eventually break down through the process of autolysis and release their cell wall and internal constituents into the surrounding wine. A further feature of the champagnes found in the shipwreck is that they were tailored to the preferences of the northern European market of the time, in terms of their high concentration of sugar added at final disgorgement and expedition. It is known that doux champagnes produced in the mid-nineteenth century contained up to 180 grams per litre of sugar, so there would be every chance that the shipwreck champagnes contained similar levels. The net result of champagne's unique chemical composition is its capacity for very slow, even maturation, thanks primarily to its low pH, and the potential for wonderful complexity, balance and nuance ­ all resulting from the special combination of low phenolics, modest alcohol level, high acidity, yeast autolysis components and high sugar concentration in this northern European cuvée. We know

And very slow, even maturation is exactly what we have observed in that special, quite possibly unique, cache of venerable champagnes. We are certainly very fortunate to have had this opportunity to travel back in time with those rare bottles. Hopefully, some of Champagne's current cuvées will survive another 200 years for generations to come ­ and especially for those intrepid space-time travellers to awaken from their induced slumber, crack open their cryogenically-preserved bottles of the fabulous 2011 vintage, toast the precious mother earth they left behind, and celebrate their bold mission into deep space.> C Tim ha Tr e m av pa ell gn er e s Fi n e S c i e n c e 61

The Summer Wine Auction 800 Lots of Rare and Collectible Wines to be Sold Simulcast in San Francisco and Hong Kong Thursday, June 16, 2011 6:00 pm PDT Martin Wine Auctions | | Friday, June 17, 2011 9:00 am HKT 701 Bryant Street San Francisco, CA 94107 USA tel: +1-415-543-9463 fax: +1-415-777-4807 email: info@martinwineauctions.com M artin wine auctions TM Now accepting consignments for future auctions. www.martinwineauctions.com

Discovering Champagne Reims Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot 64 The largest town in the Champagne region, with a population of 190 000, Reims is an unmissable travel destination and a great overnight stay for those interested in culture and nightlife. For me, it has become almost a second home. I love the fact that it is sociable yet has a slower lifestyle than the great metropolises. Reims is also home to several houses of champagne. The city houses most of the major sights to see in the region and the lion's share of the top restaurants. FINE Champagne will publish extracts from Essi Avellan's new champagne book, Matka Champagneen (Discovering Champagne) in the forthcoming issues. In her book, Avellan visits 50 of the most interesting producers in the wine region. Furnished with maps, the book is also an opportunity for champagne lovers to discover the epicurean's dream location for themselves, as Avellan opens doors to the region's best restaurants, hotels and wine stores. In this issue we will feature Avellan's top recommendations for the city of Reims.

How To Use The Book Winery Presentations I have rated each wine estate in two ways. Firstly, the glass rating refers to the general quality of the house's champagnes; I have awarded between one and five glasses. Second, I have given a star rating (one to five stars) to the organisation, setting and content of the visit to the estate, as well as the personnel and their language skills. These ratings are provided at the top right-hand corner of each estate's presentation page. No rating is available for the estates that do not accept guests. At this point I want to draw attention to the fact that each visit is unique. My evaluations are based on my own limited visits to the estates, so there may be surprises ­ both positive and negative. I give the essential details of each house, listing reasons for visiting it and tasting its champagnes on location. I also provide some background information on the estates and their protagonists, and provide an overview of the product selection. Contact details and information concerning visiting arrangements and opening hours are supplied to make it easier to organise a visit. These details may change, however, so I recommend checking in advance with the estate, either on its website or by email. I also offer production volume figures and the name of the cellar master. Favourite Champagne The second part of each presentation is reserved for my favourite champagne, i.e. the wine that shows the producer at its best or that provides the best introduction to the house. I did my best to formulate a comprehensive catalogue of champagnes of different styles and prices, ranging from 15 to more than 200 euros. I write about my chosen champagne in greater detail. For each wine, I give the producer's recommended retail price and, if applicable, the price directly from the cellar. top producer excellent producer Quality producer average producer Below-average producer top visit excellent visit good visit average visit Basic visit I have awarded a star rating to restaurants as follows: top-class restaurant excellent restaurant Quality restaurant average restaurant Basic restaurant The price level of each restaurant is classified as follows: expensive restaurant, menu over 50 euros mid-priced restaurant, menu 25­50 euros inexpensive restaurant, menu under 25 euros I have awarded a star rating to hotels as follows: Luxury hotel high-class hotel Quality hotel average hotel Basic hotel The price level of the hotels (overnight stay including breakfast) is classified as follows: expensive hotel, rooms over 180 euros mid-priced hotel, rooms 90­180 euros inexpensive hotel, rooms under 90 euros vintage tables Vintages are also given a star rating, as follows: top vintage excellent vintage average vintage ordinary vintage Poor vintage R recommended retail price C Cellar price Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e 65

krug F or many people, there are champagnes and then there is Krug; that is how legendary this house is. Established in 1843 by Johann-Joseph Krug, the house has for six generations admirably stuck to its quality principles, to its generous toasty style and to its fabulous ageing potential. After the retirement of the fifth-generation brothers Henri and Rémi Krug, the house has been looking for its place within the LVMH Group. After two years at the company's helm, Margareth Henriquez has found a direction and new winds are blowing through Krug, in the form of a more open-minded outlook. An excellent example is the idea implemented by Henriquez of equipping bottles with an easy-to-read ID that indicates the wine's age and corking date. The winemaking team, led by sixth-generation family representative Olivier Krug, is youthful. Cellar master Eric Lebel believes that a wine is always ChamPagne Krug nm www.krug.com 5, rue Coquebert, 51100 Reims puh. +33 (0)3 26 84 44 20 annual production (bottles) unconfirmed Cellar master Eric Lebel better made by a team than by an individual, therefore both Henri and Rémi Krug are still involved in the blending. Krug vinifies each batch of grapes separately in small oak barrels. Annually the house produces 200-250 different wines, which is a huge quantity compared to its size. This gives the winemakers an enviable palette to work from when considering the final blends. Krug's treasures include extensive stocks of earlier reserve wines, some of them 15 years old. In contrast with other houses, Krug begins its series with the Prestige Cuvée. Rémi Krug would always bristle if someone mistakenly called the Krug Grande Cuvée non-vintage: "Krug is not non-anything! The Grand Cuvée is multi-vintage, a blend of fine wines from several years." Other cuvées are like "pinpoints in the Krug universe". The singlevineyard wines, the 100 per cent Chardonnay Clos du Mesnil and the 100 per cent Pinot Noir Clos d'Ambonnay, provide a key to understanding Krug. After Henri and Rémi Krug first produced the Clos du Mesnil vineyard champagne in 1979, they began searching for a counterpart. After nearly twenty-five years they found it in Clos d'Ambonnay, and its first vintage, 1995, was launched in 2007. Vintage Krugs are classics that leave room for the special characteristics of each year. The Collection series gives old vintages, stored in perfect conditions, a new life in the hands of collectors. Launched in late 2010, the fabulously honeyed 1989 is now at a perfect age for enjoyment. Krug resisted producing rosés for a long time, but the Krug Rosé NV, produced since the mid-1980s, is an enchanting addition to the Krug series with its vinous toasty quality. if Krug opened its cellars to champagne lovers, it would have to start up a whole side business in tourism. even now, Krug attracts countless wine pilgrims to its gates, from where they admire the king of champagne houses. 66 Although the Grande Cuvée is a multi-vintage wine, it is by no means a standard wine for the house. According to Margareth Henriquez, it is "the whole cellar in one bottle". It ages just as well as the other Krugs. The 10­20-year-old bottles I have tasted have been heavenly. Upon their market launch I have usually awarded the wines 92­93 points, but friends of the generous and toasty nature of the wines should wait a few years to get much more from them. The winemaking team spends more than 90 per cent of its time on the Grande Cuvée. I recently attended a rare Krug Grande Cuvée blending demonstration, where one could practise making the wine out of 25 basic starting wines. We had at our disposal delicacies such as the 2009 Clos d'Ambonnay and Clos du Mesnil, a Mesnil Chardonnay from 2000 and a Bouzy Pinot Noir from 1995. It soon became clear to us just how challenging yet interesting blending is. As an example, the Grande Cuvée based on the 2009 vintage was made out of 202 components! Wine production: All Krugs are created in old oak barrels, which the house buys new but does not initially use for producing the final wines due to their strong oak aroma. Malolactic fermentation, which softens the acidity, is prevented, which furthers the wines' ageing potential. The grape blend varies from year to year, but the Grande Cuvée is strongly Pinot Noir-based. Reserve wines, sometimes stretching exceptionally far back in time, also make up a high proportion ­ typically around 40 per cent. The Grande Cuvée is aged in a cellar for a minimum of six years, while the dosage is moderate at 7 g/l. style: Deep pale-yellow colour. The generous bou- quet is delightfully toasty and nuanced. It has the sweetness of dried fruit, cream, brioche and apple, as well as a light spiciness. The velvety smooth and wide taste is strong and lingering, while a delicious acidity gives it backbone and freshness. A full-bodied, multi-layered wine whose final character depends on the shape of the glass and the serving temperature. krug grande cuvée nv 150 serving temperature: 12°C drinkability: now ­ 25 years 93 p. vintage 1998 93 p. · rosé nv 93 p. · Clos du mesnil 1998 90 p. Clos d'ambonnay 1996 94 p. · Collection 1989 95 p. grapes: emphasis on Pinot Noir, exact blend varies

pommery T turned it into a major Grande Marque. Madame Pommery was greatly inspired by her contemporary, the widow Clicquot, despite the fact that the two women apparently did not get on at all. In addition to creating the Pommery brand and building the monumental cellars, Madame Pommery is credited with producing the first dry champagne. started to turn it into a volume brand by exponentially increasing production. This significantly lowered quality. The final blow for Pommery, however, came when Moët Hennessy sold the house to Vranken but kept all of the best vineyards for itself. This act surely made Madame Pommery turn in her grave, as it made it very difficult for the house My own favourite, however, is the fantastically delicate and subtly mineral Cuvée Louise Rosé, which is an unfortunately rare find. It only makes up five per cent of Cuvée Louise's production. ChamPagne Pommery nm www.pommery.com 5, place du Général Gouraud, 51689 Reims puh. +33 (0)3 26 61 62 63 annual production (bottles) 5 000 000 Cellar masterThierry Gasco Pommery opens its doors between 9.30 am and 7 pm daily between april and mid-december, and from 10 am to 6 pm daily from mid-december to the end of march. Closed from Christmas day to new year's day. Cellar tours start at 12 euros, free entry for children under 10. tours in French, english and german. advance bookings are recommended. The long-term efforts of Pommery's winemaking team with to regards sustainable development and ecology culminated a couple of years ago in the launch of POP Earth. The lower environmental impact of this champagne was achieved thanks to the sum of many small parts: the recycled glass bottle is 35 g lighter than a normal champagne bottle; the label is recycled paper printed with non-toxic ink; and the bottles are not individually packed. It is heartening to see that the organic status goes hand in hand with quality, as POP Earth is much better than the Brut Royal and more serious than the ordinary POP. In keeping with Pommery's style, the wine is light, elegant and crisp. High-quality fruit leads to a refined, creamy fizz. Wine production: The juice from organically grown grapes is fermented in temperature-controlled steel tanks. The wine goes through full malolactic fermentation. Cellar-aged for over two years. Sweetness 2 g/l. style: Light lemon-yellow colour. Soft and mild bouquet of tropical fruit, pale flowers and peach, combined with a slight spiciness. The foam is well integrated with the fruity mouthfeel. The dry taste is gentle, full-bodied and suitably long. pommery pop earth nv 90 p. 29,90 28,20 serving temperature: 8 °C drinkability: now­2016 grapes: Pinot Noir 70 %, Pinot Meunier 10 %, Chardonnay 20 % Brut royal nv 85 p. · rosé nv 88 p. · PoP nv 86 p. · PoP rosé nv 87 p. apanage nv 89 p. · apanage rosé nv 89 p. · grand Cru 2000 91 p. summertime Blanc de Blancs nv 90 p. · Wintertime Blanc de noirs nv 88 p. Falltime Blanc de Blancs nv 89 p. · springtime rosé 89 p. Cuvée Louise 1999 92 p. · Cuvée Louise rosé 2000 94 p. Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e 67 he Pommery cellars offer one of the best visiting experiences. The fairy-tale castle complex that Madame Pommery built in 1868 is simply charming. Built over a massive area of 50 hectares, the cellars exude the magnificence of the late nineteenth century. More than 100 Gallo-Roman crayères (chalk quarries) are joined together in an 18-kilometre labyrinthine network that houses 25 million bottles of champagne. Anyone interested in art will love the changing exhibition of art installations, from which the Vrankens choose their favourites each year to permanently decorate the cellars. The artworks even make a visit to the cellars entertaining for families with children. The legacy of the world's second most famous champagne widow, Madame Pommery, was immense. Her husband, Louis Alexandre Pommery, passed away just two years after entering Narcisse Greno's champagne business in 1856. Despite having two babies to take care of, Jeanne-Alexandrine Pommery took the reins of the small business and The 1874 vintage of Pommery Nature was the first champagne that we would today call dry, and it immediately captivated the British market. It would pave the way for the champagne style of the future. One of these historic bottles can be seen in the Pommery cellars to this day. Madame Pommery had a fabulous mansion built for her daughter Louise close to the champagne headquarters, and today it houses the finest hotel in Champagne, Les Crayères. Louise was married off to Prince Guy de Polignac, and the house remained in the hands of that renowned aristocratic family until 1979. The final representative of the family, Prince Alain de Polignac, was for a long time a highly regarded cellar master of Pommery, acting as an ambassador for the house until the turn of the millennium. Despite Prince Alain's contribution, the loss of the family's holding in the business has proven fateful for Pommery. After a few changes of hands, Moët Hennessy took over Pommery in 1994 and to stick to her motto, Qualité d'abord: Quality First. In spite of the difficult circumstances, the estate's valued cellar master Thierry Gasco has stayed on board and done all he can for quality. Sustainable development is particularly close to Gasco's heart and he worked towards Pommery becoming the first house of wine to achieve the ISO 14001 environmental certificate in 1996. All of Pommery's own vineyards are organically cultivated. The standard champagne of the house, Brut Royal, has still not achieved the desired quality, even though exceptionally good bottles can be found. Brut Apanage, developed for gastronomic use, and its rosé version, on the other hand, are in a whole different league. The youthful POP is a very drinkable, softly fruity wine for straightforward nightclub and picnic use. The seasonal series of Summertime, Wintertime, Springtime and Falltime wines makes up an interesting concept. Vintage Pommerys never let you down, and the prestige wine Cuvée Louise pays Madame Pommery the homage she deserves.

Sights, Restaurants and Hotels in Reims notre dame CathedraL Place du Cardinal Luçon, 51100 Reims Closed on Sunday mornings. Otherwise open 7.30 am­7.30 pm. Information on guided tours: www.monuments-nationaux.fr and tel. +33 (0)3 26 47 81 79. Reims has one sight to see above all others, and that is the monumental cathedral of Notre Dame. It is a reminder of the city's splendid history, during which it hosted the coronation of many French kings. The cathedral dominates the cityscape and provides a sight for sore eyes on a daily basis. The cathedral's aura, although always impressive, changes from sunshine to rain and from day to night. I love it most in the evenings, when it is dramatically lit. The cathedral is greatly reminiscent of Notre Dame de Paris, which is half a century older. Initiated by Archbishop Aubrey de Humbrecht in 1210, the Gothic-style construction work was never ful- Notre Dame Cathedral is monumental and magnificent. ly completed. The cathedral was severely damaged by bombs in the First World War, but it was restored by 1937. Few of the cathedral's fabulous stained-glass windows are original; a thirteenth-century rose window still remains, but most of the others have been reconstructed. Characteristically for the region, one of the windows is dedicated to vine growers. Also worth seeing is the blue-toned window of the chapel, designed by Marc Chagall in 1974. 68 "Notre Dame Cathedral is the largest monument in Champagne and the most eye-catching work of art in Reims. It could be called the heart of the economy of Champagne. Historically, it has played an even more significant role than Notre Dame de Paris. They share many aspects, including similar architecture, a similar size and the fact that neither was ever finished." hubert de Billy, director of Champagne Pol roger ParC du ChamPagne 10, avenue du Général Giraud, 51100 Reims tel. +33 (0)3 26 35 52 50 The park's opening hours depend on the month. For details, visit a tourist information centre or www.reims-ville.fr. Entrance is free. Les Caves du Forum 10, rue Courmeaux, 51100 Reims tel. +33 (0)3 26 79 15 15 www.lescavesduforum.com Parc de Champagne, located at the top of Butte StNicaise on what used to be the old Pommery estate, was previously known as Parc Pommery. It is the number one venue for outdoor events in Reims. The park has many happenings but none as popular as the outdoor concert in July, which is attended by hordes equipped with picnic baskets and bottles of champagne. Entrance to the park is free and it is a popular picnic venue on summer weekends. Les Caves du Forum certainly live up to expectations. The ancient underground cellars are perfectly cool and damp, although the bottle labels do suffer from the moisture. Fabrice Parisot's wine shop has an excellent selection of champagnes and other wines; for example, small producers from Burgundy are well represented. Specialising in terroir wines, the shop makes up around half of its champagne selection from small-scale, new-generation producers, including Bérèche, Benôit Lahaye, Chartogne-Taillet and Egly-Ouriet. Besides French wines, Les Caves du Forum has a limited but carefully selected range of foreign wines produced from authentic local varieties. Uncommonly for France, the shop stocks, for example, Spanish Mencía and Albariño, as well as Greek Assyrtiko. Place d'erlon is a lively pedestrian area

Sights, Restaurants and Hotels in Reims "Few people know that Les Crayères's Rotonde Bar also serves small meals and snacks. The bar is open continuously to hotel customers and daily from 2pm to the public. Its elegant and intimate milieu is an excellent setting for a glass of champagne at any time of day. The champagne selection, served by the glass, varies weekly and always includes two Prestige Cuvées, one standard or test the champagne glass designed for the restaurant by its Head Sommelier, Philippe Jamesse." Frédéric Panaïotis, Cellar master of Champagne ruinart Le Parc restaurant of Les Crayères is a culinary institution. hoteL Les Crayères 64, boulevard Henry Vasnier, 51100 Reims tel. +33 (0)3 26 24 90 00 www.lescrayeres.com when you find out that the guests of the 20 stunning rooms are served by a staff of 85. Built close to the Pommery champagne castle, on a hill named Butte St-Nicaise, in 1904, the mansion was previously home to members of the Pommery family. Since 1983 the history-infused building has been the site of numerous pilgrimages by oenophiles, thanks to its world-famous gastronomy and excellent service. "Le Jardin is one of the most popular places in Reims right now. Set in the beautiful park of Les Crayères, the highly elegant brasserie offers a more relaxed alternative to the fine dining restaurant." Bruno Paillard, Champagne Bruno Paillard Château les Crayères is a luxurious restaurant and hotel oasis that exudes the glamour of Champagne from its every pore. No other hotel comes close to its quality or service, and this is of no surprise "The gardens of Château Les Crayères are my favourite place to gaze upon the fabulous Basilica of Saint-Remi." didier dupond, director of Champagne salon-delamotte restaurant Le ParC de Les Crayères Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. restaurant Le Jardin de Les Crayères Open daily for lunch and dinner. The fine dining restaurant at Les Crayères is a culinary institution. It built its reputation under the helm of chef Gerard Boyer, who won it three Michelin stars. Despite lofty aims, his successor Didier Elena `only' managed to achieve two stars for Les Crayères. The promising young talent of Philippe Mille had to start last year with no stars at all, but time will tell what he is to achieve. The local champagne élite, who have been regulars at Les Crayères throughout its history, are eulogising the innovative yet refined new touches that Mille has brought to the restaurant, and expect the first star to be forthcoming. The atmosphere is extremely luxurious and exclusive; there are plenty of staff to attend to even the smallest needs of customers; and the restaurant's long-term sommelier Philippe Jamesse is truly experienced at combining champagne with food - he has even designed his own range of glasses for the restaurant. The champagne list is ostentatious, al- though predictably costly, and includes all the top names from the region. Mille has continued Elena's series of champagne-themed menus, meaning the oft-changing selections are interesting for any champagne lover, and very reasonably priced. Opened last year, Le Jardin responds to the desire of the public to be able to enjoy the atmosphere of the hotel and park at Les Crayères with less pomp and expense than at Le Parc. The pleasant atmosphere and large terrace are tempting, especially in summer. The food is not far from fine dining, so even here you feel you are in the capable hands of head chef Philippe Mille. Offering more modern and lighter gastronomy than the main restaurant, Le Jardin is not expensive; with the economy as it is, many have probably downshifted to Le Jardin from Le Parc. The no-frills yet elegant setting and the professional staff also respond to today's needs. The only con for me was the champagne list, which only contained standard champagnes from the big houses. You would think that more unusual and valuable champagnes would sell even here, so I presume that this was a conscious choice in order to set the two restaurants apart. Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e 69 vintage champagne and one rosé. At Rotonde you can also

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Champagne up in the treetops Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot Fi n e C h a m pa g n e B a r 71 Hidden in the Verzy forest on the Montagne de Reims lies an oasis for the nature-loving champagne explorer. Perchingbar, the brainchild of Olivier Couteau, is a champagne bar built up in the oak trees. The small bar and its spacious terrace overlook the Champagne vineyards, with the ecologially-built and managed treehouse accessed by a line of hanging bridges. The bar's energy is sourced from solar panels and no building work ever threatens to damage the oak trees. Parisian architect Germain Morrisseau designed the playful yet stylish interior, and it is complemented by swing chairs and champagne coolers hanging from the ceiling.

Olivier Couteau 72 Perchingbar currently offers champagnes from four different producers, ranging from local growers Pehu-Simonnet and Louis de Sacy to the Grande Marque houses of Bollinger and G.H. Mumm. The entry fee is 15 euros, which includes a glass of champagne. This unique bar, along with the adjacent Arboxygene climbing park, fulfills Couteau's vision of nature-friendly living up in the trees. Perchingbar was opened last summer but Couteau already has expansion plans. Next in line are cocoon-like hotel rooms up in the treetops ­ a must for the adventurous champagne traveller. > PERCHINGBAR Forêt de Brise Charette 51380 Verzy tel. +33 (0)6 07 67 94 42 www.perchingbar.eu Perchingbar's opening hours vary and therefore it is advisable to check their internet site or call the bar. Closed from January to March.

une Famille, un Clos, un Premier Cru Une trilogie fondée sur les liens familiaux et la passion d'un terroir 5, rue du Mesnil · 51130 Vertus Tél. : +33 (0)3 26 52 16 30 · Fax : +33 (0)3 26 52 20 13 info@champagne-veuve-fourny.com · www.champagne-veuve-fourny.com L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération.

74 juhlin richard S hipwrecked champagne uncorked ednesday, the 17th of November will always be a day to remember for champagne lovers around the world. It was the day when the nearly 180-year-old shipwrecked bottles were opened and the worth of the Baltic Sea's champagne treasure was assessed. Some think that I live a life of luxury and am a bit spoiled. As I tasted an estimated six million euros worth of shipwrecked champagne in just three days, it is perhaps a bit hard to argue with ­ but I will still give it a try. W The re-corking of champagne is hardly something I advocate, yet I was appointed as a consultant to the Åland government behind the decision to re-cork all bottles that were found aboard the wreck at Åland. A er observing leakage of far too many bottles and as the origin could only be traced through the bottom of the cap, we had no choice. I was own to Mariehamn, alongside an archaeologist and a technical team from Veuve Clicquot, for three days to re-cork and taste all the 145 recovered bottles. Since it was impossible to let the bottles remain at the bottom of

the sea until the occasion for drinking them arose, the bottles that had been stored in individual water baths in the "nursery" displayed great bottle variation and a lower carbon dioxide content than they had done at the bottom of the sea. Some bottles that appeared perfect had unfortunately allowed seawater to leak in and were undrinkable. The bottles that were in good condition are a fantastic experience for all the senses to encounter. The exercise was fascinating and I am quite pleased with the results of the grading of each and every individual bottle. More than sixty bottles ended up in the rst category of `tradable good' to `outstanding' wines. About one-third of the bottles were graded in the middle tier. These wines are likely to be used as reserve or dosage wine in the exciting cuvées the champagne houses are planning. The last third was undrinkable, o en with a touch of seawater having entered the bottle. A few bottles were so terrible that we had to evacuate the tasting room a er opening them. A er recovering from the shock of these odours I took a short walk for a bit of fresh air and went back to the bottles again. Our mind works, unfortunately, in a way that we remember the unpleasant smells all too well. Therefore, I could not enjoy many of the ne bottles that I placed in the highest category, either. When I crawled into bed a er a hard day's work, I remembered all too well the stench of manure, swamp and rotten eggs. Luckily, we managed to round o the evening with a few glasses of great red wines. It is not always easy being a champagne expert! > 90p (Nov 2010) part from the characteristic aroma of farmyard, mature Brie de Meaux cheese and mushroom that immediately strikes one, there are exciting tones of leather, honey and crème brûlée. In the faintly tingling and extremely sweet basic avour there is a very unexpected, green and youthful taste spectrum, in which lime and linden blossom are the leading notes. The wine's mystique and intensity are almost numbing. As an experience, my assessment marks are miserly, but from an objective perspective of quality, they are completely fair. 87p (Nov 2010) he six bottles I have tasted so far share the same Brie de Meaux nose as Clicquot and are actually even a touch sweeter. I want to describe Juglar as somewhat more robust and more rustic, and where the other champagne tends towards white blooms and lime, Juglar re ects peach, mandarin and orange liqueur. It is a joy for all senses. Considering that it is one of the oldest champagne in the world, its friendly drinkability and vivacity are a gi to humanity. T Fi n e J u h l i n 75 1830s Veuve Clicquot A 1830s Juglar

CTreasure hampagne Treasure the 76 Deep fro from om

Text: Essi Avellan MW Photographs: Visit Åland L T ast summer, news was received which stirred the wine world. The wreck of a treasure-rich ship loaded with champagne had been found deep in Finnish waters. And it wasn't just any champagne, but perhaps the oldest surviving champagne in the world. Speculation was rife regarding the producer, age and quantity of the bottles and it only increased as the weeks went by, as sparse, yet appetite-whetting information was provided to the media. Finally, the local government on the Åland Islands invited a group of reporters to hear the story of the bottles and the plans for their future. FINE was there and we were among those lucky enough to taste a drop of these historic ndings. revealed in the ship's stern, where stacks of unbroken sparkling wine bottles lay on a bed of straw. Hands shaking with anticipation, the divers brought one bottle up to the surface and uncorked it, mainly to check whether there was still champagne in it or if it consisted of mostly seawater. Ekström took his rst swig directly from the bottle and there was no end to the divers' jubilation when the contents turned out to be wine. Next, the remaining crew of the diving vessel had a chance to marvel at the discovery in a plastic cup. The rest of the bottle was quickly taken ashore and local sommelier Ella Grüssner Cromwell-Morgan was asked to evaluate the contents. A er this, the local Åland government quickly took over and diving around the wreck was forbidden. Prior to the raising of the bottles and other items, they were carefully documented by the Åland Board of Antiquities. The raising itself took two weeks of sixteen-hour diving days. The divers' account of this long diving operation gives an indication of the extent of the treasure. Still, a utter passed through the audience when it was announced that as many as 145 bottles had been recovered. Finland is in possession of an enormous champagne treasure. he gleaming new Alandica Cultural and Congress Centre, located at the east harbour of Mariehamn begins to ll up well ahead of time. International TV crews colonise the large auditorium. The start of the press conference is amicably awaited by French and Swedish state televisions, Itar-Tass, Finnish Broadcasting Corporation, Financial Times, Le Monde and the Finnish News Agency. The Åland Islands have probably never attracted such a slew of media before. The atmosphere is buzzing when the divers who found the wreck and hauled up the treasure, Anders Näsman and Christian Ekström, take the stage. We hear a detailed account of how every diver's dream came true for these men. The ship, laden with valuables, was probably sailing towards Finland's western coast when it was hit by a rough autumn storm along the old sea route, in the outer archipelago of Åland. The divers found the place thanks to a tip-o by a local sherman, and discovered the wreck at a depth of 47 metres. Externally, the twentymetre schooner was in good condition, lying neatly on its side with both masts still intact. The divers carefully examined the wreck, nding items such as navigation instruments and crockery. The real surprise was then Fi n e T r e a s u r e 77

N C l i c q uo t ' s Ye l l ow S u r p r i s e ext, a bottle was sent for analysis to France, where experts conrmed that the wine was champagne and declared the bottles to be from the rst decades of the nineteenth century. Due to the anchor logo found on the metal caps of the corks, the bottles were rst thought to belong to Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, but Clicquot's cellar master Dominique Demarville disproved that theory. Eventually, the producer was identi ed as Juglar, which has since merged into Champagne Jacquesson. Veuve Clicquot continued to be closely involved in the project, however, and sent a representative to the grand press event and to the preceding opening and recorking operation of ten bottles. To everyone's great surprise, some bottles of Veuve Clicquot were discovered among the Juglars. It was logical for this to be the case, as the Russian and Baltic markets were important to the house of Clicquot in the early 1800s. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, owner of Champagne Jacquesson, says that Memmie Jacquesson's strategy was also to head for the eastern regions instead of the highly competitive British market. According to Chiquet, the shape of the bottles indicates that they belong to late 1820s, though probably no later than the 1829 vintage. It was in that year that Juglar merged with Jacquesson and production ceased under the Juglar brand. Veuve Clicquot, on the other hand, estimates that its bottles are from the early 1830s. The world's oldest surviving champagne bottles are Perrier-Jouët from 1825, and can still be found in that estate's cellars. Therefore, this is not the oldest champagne stash in the world, but its size makes it all the more interesting. T A D r o p o f H i s to r y he event's climax is the arrival onstage of champagne expert Richard Juhlin to taste and qualify both the Juglar and Veuve Clicquot champagnes. A erwards, some journalists are allowed to experience these historic champagnes with their own senses. Those of us who have received the golden ticket are ushered into the cross re of ashlights and TV cameras. I taste the Juglar rst. The deep brown colour is very clear. The strong aroma is just a touch smoky but pleasant and still fruity. The extremely concentrated taste is crisp, streamlined and perfectly lively, although there are no bubbles le . Time stops and the media circus around me fades into a background hum. The wine's sweetness reminds me how di erent champagnes were in the past and how lucky I am to taste a drop of history like this. Next I am handed the Veuve Clicquot, and the only thing I can think about is that this champagne is actually a contemporary of the Yellow Widow herself, Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin. I have partaken of the same champagne as the world-famous widow, who died more than 140 years ago. The champagne is very strong and rustic, with aromas of burnt rubber and baked and honeyed notes in the background. The taste is just as lively as that of its contemporary, the Juglar, and it amazes me with its freshness and agelessness. N R e tu r n o f t h e Wa nd e re r 78 ews of the unique Nordic tasting experience is broadcast in France, the UK, Greece and Australia, among other places. Next to celebrate is the Champagne region, as one bottle of the historic Veuve Clicquot is returned to its hometown of Reims, in order Jacquesson's Jean-Hervé Chiquet and Veuve Clicquot's François Hautekeur serving Richard Juhlin the first sip.

A drop of history to complete its near 180-year journey. Travelling in the passenger cabin under special licence with an escort from Moët-Hennessy, the bottle ies to Paris and then to a place of honour in its home cellar. At Veuve Clicquot, it is received by cellar master Dominique Demarville, Chairman Stéphane Baschiera, Mayor of the City of Reims Adeline Hazan, and dozens of reporters. A B ubbly Auc t i o n We e ke n d in Åland further appraisal and corking event held by experts later in December o ered a further surprise: a handful of Heidsieck & Co Monopole bottles were also discovered among the Juglars and Veuve Clicquots, so the champagne treasure from the deep now contains 150-year-old samples from three champagne houses. The Åland government now faces a fascinating task. The aim is to make use of the treasure in the long term to help promote the Åland Islands. According to the plan, some of the bottles will also be auctioned. The rst auction and champagne weekend will take place in Mariehamn in early June. > Fi n e T r e a s u r e 79

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c T hampagne Text: Jukka Sinivirta The Story of Part 1 Photos: Collection CIVC The journey of champagne, from the very first vines planted in the region to today's golden, bubbly nectar, has been long and circuitous. For a long time the red and still liquid lay like Sleeping Beauty, awaiting its fate. It is only during the last three centuries that champagne has achieved its place in high society. he golden age of wines in the Roman Empire took place between the last century before the Christian Era and the rst two centuries A.D. The quality and valuation of wines then grew to parallel those achieved in Ancient Greece, and developments and innovations in the eld spread throughout the Empire. The rst vineyards were established in Hispania and Gaul, and they produced wine not only for the local settlers but also to satisfy the appetites of Rome and the whole of Italy, wherever there were ports and channels to facilitate transport. In the Durocortorum region of Gaul, now known as Reims, the rst wine cellars were quarried. The Romans copied the local way of quarrying the limestone needed for buildings by burrowing long and deep tunnels underground. Some of these hollows have been lled over the centuries Fi n e H i s t o r y 81

by landslides, but others still exist and are still used for storing modern, bubbly champagne. Although the Romans planted the rst vines, they also spent a couple of centuries tearing them out at the Emperor's behest. The eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. buried some of Rome's best vineyards underneath the lava. The Romans could not live without wine, however, and soon vine plantations had taken over a signi cant proportion of arable land. In 92 A.D., Emperor Domitian, concerned about waning grain cultivation, passed an edict demanding that one half of the vines grown in Rome's overseas provinces ­ including Campania ­ must be dug out, roots and all. This may also have been a way to protect Italy's winemaking operations from foreign competition. It was not until 282 A.D. that Emperor Probus, the son of a gardener, refuted this edict and vine growing became established in all of the major wine regions of France. The same tug-of-war between agriculture and vine growing reappeared in the region later. In 1566, Charles IX decreed that vines must not make up more than one third of cultivated areas. Henry III revoked this decree in 1577, instead choosing to warn farmers against excessive vine growing. Glory to the Church and Kings he Church played an important role in establishing vine growing in the late sixth century. The monks in the Abbey of St. Basles were enthusiastic vine growers, and wines from Champagne were served a er religious rites and on holy days. One of the great victories of the Church was the baptism of the Frank King Clovis into the Christian faith in 496. Ten years earlier, Clovis had practically beaten the Romans out of the area. According to legend, before the battle he drank wine from the vineyard of St. Remy, Bishop of Reims, in Champagne. Clovis had promised to convert to Christianity if he beat the menace coming from the east. From the end of Roman rule in the h century until the beginning of the Renaissance in the eenth, wines from Champagne gradually increased in popularity among the ruling and wealthy classes. Already in the ninth century, the wines of the region were being divided into Vins de la Montagne (mountain wines) and Vins de la Rivière (riverside wines). The best villages were considered to be Bouzy and Verzenay, located high on the hills, and Aÿ, close to the Marne valley. The popularity of T 82

Counts of Champagne A er the turn of the rst millennium, Champagne became an important trading region. The Comtes de Champagne, who had originally been feudal lords in the area, understood the signi cance of economic growth. Ruling the area from the city of Troyes, the counts supported the local markets, which attracted traders from all around Europe. Best remembered these days is Count Thibault IV, who has been commemorated on the label of Taittinger's luxury champagne since 1952. Sheep rearing and wool were for a long time more important industries than wine production. The vines produced grapes for local consumption and only o ered opportunities for minor additional income. In the thirteenth century, wool buyers began to be o ered wine, and soon the wool traders were also receiving wine orders. Apparently, the region's location was a greater in uence on the growing popularity of the Champagne wines than their quality. The Marne valley had long been a useful passage route and the region became a natural junction for northern Europe. The short distance from Paris was a particular bene t before the advent of railways, and Reims was along the route of Flemish wine traders travelling to Beaune. Having intended to buy wines from Bourgogne, the traders were very happy to nd equally good wines much closer and at a cheaper price. The story of champagne will continue in the next issue of FINE Champagne. Fi n e H i s t o r y 83 the wines was boosted by a coronation tradition, thanks to which the reputation of Champagne wines spread all around France. The rst such ceremony was held in 816, when Charlemagne's son Louis was crowned among festivities in which the aristocratic guests were introduced to local wines. The ceremony became established in Reims with the coronation of Philip VI in 1328, when the court and local populace drained approximately 300 barrels of local wine. Henry IV, husband of Marie de' Medici, ascended to the throne in 1589 and was probably the rst king to present champagne to his court. Continuous Battlefield he favourable location on the trading route was not just bene cial to the region of Champagne; it was also a route for robbers, conquerors and invaders from the east. The worst of the ransackers was Attila the Hun, who in 451 was beaten on the elds of Catalaunum, close to Châlon-sur-Marne, in the bloodiest battle that humanity had known. Attila was forced to withdraw from Europe, but not before 200 000 men had lost their lives in battle. In the next thousand years a er that, the region alternated between times of contented prosperity and awful devastation. The city of Reims was burnt, pillaged and razed to the ground seven times between the years 450 and 1000, and the region's second centre, Épernay, was destroyed a total of 25 times between 600 and 1500. The Hundred Years' War repeatedly devastated the region of Champagne. Religious wars destroyed the Abbey of Hautvillers close to Épernay in 1560, while the Thirty Years' War also kept the region as a battle eld. The Fronde uprising brought with it mercenaries who callously wreaked destruction in the area. The troops of Marshal Turenne drank 600 barrels of wine in Hautvillers alone, according to Hugh Johnson in The Story of Wine. "The King does not send hounds to guard his ock, but wolves", an unhappy Reimsian wrote. Throughout these centuries the wine from the Champagne region was a pale, very acidic red wine, similar in appearance to modern rosé. The wine also lacked the bubbles we now associate with it. A period of change began in 1638, however. That year saw the birth of two men, one of whom would turn the wine into what many feel is the nest in the world, while the other would bring it to the attention of the entire Western world. > T

Celebration Champagne Text: Pekka Nuikki 1961 84 harles iana

ilded by the morning sun, the Buckingham Palace balcony awaited its grand moment, empty. The street parties that had gone on through the night in London had quietened down, and the square in front of the balcony began to fill with citizens, press and tourists hungry for romance. As the time neared ten o'clock, the crowds were about to be rewarded for their patience. At 10:30 a.m. exactly, royal carriages started out from the Palace, marking the beginning of a precisely orchestrated royal performance. The first carriage bore the groom, HRH Prince Charles, accompanied by his brother, Prince Andrew. Five minutes later, the future Princess of Wales and the heroine of the day, Lady Diana Spencer, stepped into a carriage at the Queen Mother's house, accompanied by her father. Her face was concealed by a veil and the first glimpse could be caught of the wedding dress designed by Emmanuel, which had until then been a closely guarded secret. The huge sleeves, ruffles and lace of the dress, as well as the long train ­ whose length had been calculated and tested according to the steps of St. Paul's Cathedral ­ filled up the carriage, just as they had filled most of the column space in the British media for weeks. As the royal carriages travelled towards St. Paul's they caused a wave of euphoria, a massive sea of sound, whose hundreds of thousands of congratulations and tears still rippled through the streets of London the next day. Tears welled into many eyes outside of London, too, as an estimated 750 million viewers around the world followed the fairy-tale wedding on TV. G Excitement and nerves were palpable during the wedding ceremony. The young bride stumbled over the order of the names of her husbandto-be, but she was not alone: the groom also promised to share with her "thy worldly goods" instead of his own. The ceremony, with its three thousand guests, was festive and moving. One of the climaxes of the long day was the opening of the doors to the patiently waiting balcony at Buckingham Palace, at exactly 1:15 p.m. The 20-year-old newly minted Diana, Princess of Wales stepped out with her husband, Prince Charles. Hundreds of thousands of well-wishers surrounding the Palace witnessed their kiss. After the famous kiss and the official wedding photography session by Lord Snowdon, the Queen invited friends and family for a wedding breakfast at Buckingham Palace. The dinner consisted of brill in lobster sauce, supreme de volaille Princesse de Galles (chicken breast stuffed with lamb mousse) and strawberries with cream from Cornwall. All the dishes were served on golden plates and accompanied by the finest of champagnes: Dom Pérignon 1961. Ninety-nine magnum bottles of the 1961 vintage of Dom Pérignon, which is considered by many experts to be one of the best champagnes ever produced, were specially brought from the Moët & Chandon champagne cellars for the wedding. A further twelve magnums of the same vintage were ordered, six for Palace staff and six for charity. According to Moët & Chandon, this specific cuvée was never released for public sale. Fi n e C e l e b r at i o n C h a m pa g n e 85

We have tasted the 1961 Dom Pérignon on several occasions, but these specific magnum bottles always carry a special significance. A special label was designed for the wedding magnums to tell the tale of the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana on 29 July 1981. These bottles were recorked in 1981, which means that they have more of the autolytic character brought by recorking than other bottles from that year. > 99p Official Royal Wedding timetable: 10.05 am Members of the Royal Family travelling by car leave St James's Palace 10.14 am Foreign Crowned Heads leave Buckingham Palace by car 10.20 am Bridesmaids and Pages leave Clarence House by car 10.22 am The Queen's Carriage Procession leaves Buckingham Palace 10.30 am The Carriage Procession of the Bridegroom leaves Buckingham Palace 10.35 am The Carriage Procession of the Bride leaves Clarence House 11.00 am The Marriage Service 12.20 pm The Carriage Procession of the Bride and Bridegroom leaves St Paul's Cathedral for Buckingham Palace 12.25 pm The Queen's Carriage Procession leaves St Paul's Cathedral for Buckingham 1.15 pm 2.00 pm 4.00 pm 86 Palace The Royal Family appears on the balcony at Buckingham Palace The Wedding Breakfest The Prince and Princess of Wales leave Buckingham Palace by carriage for their honeymoon Average auction 9.680 price: Colour: Bright, golden yellow with energetic fine bubbles Nose: Rich, milk chocolate, roasted coffee beans, bread tones. Palate: Quite dry, crisp acidity with full-bodied style and vibrant rich mousse Ending: Long and well balanced In a word: Royal treatment Buy or not: 3 times, last in 6/2010 Tasted: Yes, but only for your daughter's wedding. Decantingt ime: 10 minutes Glass time: 30 min When to drink: Now Food pairing: Proper glassware Fake factor: Big ­ beware of re-labelled /filled bottles Inside information: Specially shipped to honour the marriage of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer, 29 July 1981. Disgorged 1981, 1961 was the year of Princess Diana's birth. Or try this: A bottle of Kate and William's wedding champagne ­ Pol Roger Vintage Final verdict: Excellent, youthful and sophisticated champagne, even without the Royal connection Magnum of 1961 Dom Pérignon for the Wedding of Charles, Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer "A slice of royal wedding history was sold off for 1 000 pounds at auction. A piece of wedding cake from Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer's ceremony in 1981 was sold by a former royal servant, who had kept it wrapped in cling film in an attic for the past 27 years." Dom Pérignon has created Dom Pérignon Wedding ­ a wedding champagne that is as eternal as the memory of a special moment in time. Containing 12 bottles of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2000, Dom Pérignon Wedding also features an exquisite white lacquered box that holds an additional bottle of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2000 with a unique silver label, which can be personalised with the bride and groom's names and the date of their nuptials. Claudia Schiffer, who posed for the Dom Pérignon International Campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld, has been a fan of Dom Pérignon for many years and drank it with her guests at her wedding. She proclaims that "For me, Dom Pérignon is the ultimate symbol of luxury, elegance and quality", and adds "I had Dom Pérignon at my wedding and since then it is always with us to celebrate special occasions." Dom Pérignon has also accompanied the wedding celebrations of Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, Mariah Carey and Nick Cannon, Beyoncé and Jay-Z, as well as Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony. Dom Pérignon Wedding

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88 Dat e : D e c e m ber 2010 O r g a n is e r : M ichael Barns tijn Pl ace: O ntario, Canada Tas ter: Es s i Avel l an MW Canadian wine collector Michael Barnstijn and his wife Louise have hosted stunning charity wine dinners in their home for a number of years. Last year, they decided to organise their first-ever champagne dinner, and FINE Champagne editor Essi Avellan MW and Olivier Krug of Champagne Krug were invited as "mystery guests", to give insight of the champagnes to the twelve wine-loving guests. The chef for the evening, Arpi Magyar, created an innovative and playful ten-course dinner, to which the wines were matched in themed fl ights. Malcolm Roberts, a passionate wine-afi cionado, perfected the service to the finest detail. The evening felt like never-ending fi reworks of food and wine sensations. Out of the wines, Krug 1975 shone the brightest alongside Bollinger RD 1953, Krug 1966 and Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 1975. A once-in-a-lifetime experience that will be hard to match.

S one elds ampagn D n er Canapés: sea urchin, oyster, salmon jerky, tapioca and steelhead Armand de Brignac Blanc de Blancs NV Faux beluga caviar with Canadian osetra, crabmeat, chive crème fraiche Larmandier Bernier Vieilles Vignes de Cramant 1996 Tarlant Cuvée Louis NV (disg. 2001) Drappier Grande Sendrée 1996 Three lettuces and oblate, mint, coriander, basil, pine cone tea Dom Ruinart 1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1976 Magnum Foie gras with kimchi and golden raisin puree, crispy rice Fi n e E v e n t Intermezzo: Pearls, Sicilian lemon sorbet and grappa bergamot bubble Dom Pérignon 2002 Andy Warhol Edition Smoked tuna "prosciutto," crispy seaweed, pickled vegetables, ginger Krug Clos du Mesnil 1981 Salon 1969 Escolar, matchstick fries, béarnaise Billecart-Salmon Clos Saint Hilaire 1998 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1989 Potted lobster, corn, poached egg, crispy leeks, chorizo froth Dom Pérignon Rosé 1988 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 1982 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 1975 Kobe beef sabu sabu, carrots, onion, parsnips, ponzu Louis Roederer Cristal 1964 Bollinger RD 1953 Cheese: smoked parmesan crisps, roasted chestnuts, chestnut honey Krug Grande Cuvée NV (disg. 2004) Dessert Duo: buttermilk panna cotta, strawberry soup, and caramel ice cream with salted air Doyard La Libertine NV 89 Dom Pérignon 1966 Krug Blanc de Blancs 1966 Krug 1966 Wild mushroom broth, perigord truffle, fried pancetta ravioli Krug 1975 Magnum Moët & Chandon 1921

How to read FINE's tasting notes: We open and taste more fine and rare wines than any other wine media in the world. As these wines are so special, we firmly believe that they deserve to be presented in the best possible manner, and in a way that will serve our readers well. This is why our tasting notes include lot more information than just a basic description of each wine. The topics we cover in our tasting notes other than colour, nose, taste and finish are: Average auction price The given price is a six-month average paid in auctions run by major auction houses throughout Europe, the USA and Asia (FINE Wine Index) The scoring system In our wine evaluations, the most significant factor is the scoring system. We score wines according the pleasure they deliver today, not according to their potential. Our purpose is to make sure you enjoy the wines when they are at their optimum, in order to ensure the wines not only deliver the greatest pleasure but also their value. As one of FINE's fundamental values is to support excellence, we have made the decision to not publish wines that receive 79 points or below. In a word A short description of the wine Buy or not Mentions if the wine is worthy of its price based on its rarity and our tasting experience Tasted 90 How many times we have tasted the wine and the most recent tasting Decanting time Recommends the length of time each wine should be decanted before serving We use a 100-point evaluation system, where the wines have been divided into the following categories: Glass time How long the wine lasts having been poured into the glass When to drink The year we believe each wine will reach its optimum drinkability 99­100 Food pairing The perfect dish to accompany each wine A wine with the wow-e ect. Sheer perfection to all senses by every parameter of wine quality. A true gift from nature. 95­98 Fake factor Calculates the risk of encountering counterfeit bottles. This is an estimate based on the FINE editorial team's experience An outstanding wine that leaves an unforgettable tasting experience with its perfect structure, complexity and personality. 90­94 An excellent wine, that stands out by balance, intensity, complexity and character. 86­89 Inside information Shares specific information about the wine or vintage, which will add value to the tasting experience A good wine with balance and complexity. 80­85 Or try this Instead of this wine, another option is o ered that might be more a suitable investment An average, though well-made wine. Nose and palate are somewhat one-dimensional and impersonal. 50­79 Final verdict Wraps up our opinion about the wine A modest and straightforward wine lacking life and harmony. This wine is excluded from appearing in FINE Tastings.

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96 Leisure amenities include a 175-slip marina for boating, fishing and diving.

In Keeping with the Times Text and Photos: Pekka Nuikki A hot day slowly declines towards evening. The hectic hustle and bustle in streets and houses dies down in unison with the fading light. The shadows on the roads of the Ocean Reef Club resort deepen and lengthen, as the whole area is gradually enveloped by the veil of darkness. It is the time of night when streetlights sparkle in the dusk like little stars. It will be a starlit night, under whose blanket the white yachts anchored in the Ocean Reef harbour will rest on the tides of the Atlantic Ocean. On a night like this, more than two thousand stars are visible to the naked eye. Those tiny points of light are like clocks, measuring the passage of time over a span of billions of years. Looking up at the distant stars and galaxies, we look back in time, because light takes thousands of years to journey down from them to Earth. The time scale of the cosmos is so vast that it is almost impossible to fathom. There are few places on Earth where we can begin to encounter time, the past and future together, and live it fully. The Ocean Reef Club at Key Largo, a place for those born under a lucky star, is one of them. Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n 97

T 98 ime is a human construct and the way in which we experience it is subjective. An evening walk on the timeless oceanside streets of Ocean Reef inevitably makes you think about the nature of time. The light from even our closest stars takes aeons to reach the Earth, but when we look up to the night sky, we have an immediate experience of it. Time is as familiar and natural to us as the air we breathe. But contrary to air, we cannot observe time. It passes, but we cannot say what exactly it is that goes by. All we know is that past time cannot be retrieved. At Ocean Reef one comes across a new temporal concept: QTL or quality time left. The entire Ocean Reef philosophy is based around this abbreviation and the challenge it entails. Every minute and hour is an opportunity for each of us; an opportunity to experience and enjoy life, an opportunity to turn every moment into quality time ­ regardless of our physical age. This is the purpose for which Ocean Reef was created six decades ago. As we know, the future will always be different from the past. What was then a small-scale holiday oasis has turned into an everyday paradise that responds to today's challenges by coming up with new ones. Quality over Duration of Life Every civilization and every place around the world has a creation story that explains where we came from, how we came to be here and what will happen next. In the 1940s, a successful Minneapolis entrepreneur named Morris Baker discovered a slice of paradise in the Florida Keys and developed it into a fishing camp to enjoy with his closest friends and family. He named the slice Ocean Reef. main goal has been to preserve the club's rich traditions and gracious lifestyle for future generations. "The values of the club centre on family, and our strength comes from providing activities, events and traditional experiences that focus on generational interaction. Many of today's members are here because they first visited the club with their grandparents. Authentic in spirit and surrounded by nature on both land and sea, our location, weather and amenities make for a unique way of life for all our members," explains the club's President, Paul Astbury. Words into Actions Today, the authentic lifestyle that Baker created is apparent to all who come to experience it. Situated on the Atlantic Ocean, the Ocean Reef Club is a private, member-owned community that offers its residents and guests a "unique way of life", which is embodied in amenities, service and privacy that presidents, heads of state, industry leaders and celebrities have enjoyed for more than sixty years. Through the years, the growth of Ocean Reef and its facilities has been guided by the interests and expertise of its members. The The paradox of our experience of time is positively apparent at Ocean Reef. Time passes quickly but also very slowly. Things are always happening, and then time seems to pass swiftly, punctuated by the many events that take place. When nothing is happening, time seems to crawl. However, looking back later on one's days at Ocean Reef, these experiences of time are turned upside down: the eventful days that went by quickly are remembered as long periods that were filled with many happenings, whereas the leisurely days that felt longer then are only small specks in the memory. The Ocean Reef Club invites its members and guests, young and old, to spend their time actively at the resort. Leisure amenities include

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a 175-slip marina for boating, fishing and diving; two 18-hole championship golf courses; worldclass tennis and lawn sports; jogging and cycling paths; a cooking school; a nature centre; an art league and a cultural centre; a range of children's activities and events, and much more. As the club is surrounded on three sides by water, located adjacent to the only living coral reef in American waters and surrounded by exceptional fishing opportunities, Ocean Reef naturally offers a wide variety of water sports. "Whether scuba diving to take pictures on an underwater wreck or snorkelling in the shallow aqua waters to catch a lobster, it all begins moments away from our marina. The fishing is best divided into three main areas: the shallow flats where some of the largest bonefish are found along with permit, redfish and tarpon; the inshore and offshore reef where snapper and grouper are the desired catch; and the offshore waters of the Gulf Stream, often starting at only five miles from our shore, where mahi-mahi, tuna, sailfish and the occasional marlin roam. You can select whether you want to catch them on traditional tackle or challenge yourself further by making the catch of the day on fly. For that purpose we are also an Orvis-endorsed location with an on-site Orvis retail store," explains Betsy Brown. rarity in the Florida Keys, the Ocean Reef Club offers not one but two 18-hole courses. "With significant recent investments into the golf experience at the club, Ocean Reef offers two very distinct golf courses, each of which challenges players in its own way. Our Hammock course is built inside a wildlife sanctuary. That means that each hole offers the beauty of surrounding nature while requiring accurate shot placement. The Dolphin course is closer to a links style with more open fairways and greater potential to be forgiving of errant shots. Coupled with a teaching programme, a practice area and the latest apparel and accessories in our award-winning pro shop, our golf experience is unforgettable." "With our Men's and Ladies' Golf Associations, myriad tournaments, invitationals and weekly playing A groups, we are ­ among other things ­ a golf community. So much so that the major mode of transportation around the 2500-acre resort is the golf cart. We even have a third golf course that is private within the club for those who desire an even more exclusive golf experience," says Scott Kirkwood, golf pro at Ocean Reef. Your Body is a Temple The programme at the Ocean Reef Fitness Center was clearly planned with time and careful consideration. Your body is a temple, and that philosophy is embraced here with a large number of special courses, fitness classes and lifestyle workshops that assist you in developing towards a fitter and healthier body and soul ­ whatever your entry level. 101 Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n

102 "The Ocean Reef of today exceeds even the collective vision of those involved in the member purchase twenty years ago. It is a unique an irreproducible combination of the natural beauty of mangrove islands and live coral reefs, the activities of boating, diving, fishing, golf, tennis,and croquet, plus art and cultural facilities, all topped off with our own world-class medical clinic. But what makes Ocean Reef really special is our national cross-section of warm, friendly people. I feel very lucky to live here and can't imagine living anywhere else." Tom Davidson, Chairman of the Medical Center and member of the executive board of the Ocean Reef Community Foundation

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104 The point is to challenge only yourself, and this is made easy for members with services that meld together seamlessly. The fitness centre works in concert with the Ocean Reef Medical Center's wellness programme, and, having had personal fitness evaluations and healthy living programmes made, members can rely on the expertise of the centres' instructors, who guide them towards genuine results on the path to a healthier lifestyle. In addition to a fully equipped gym, there are classes ranging from Zumba, dance, spin and water aerobics to yoga, tai chi, Pilates, karate and self-defence. The fitness centre also has a McKenzie Method practitioner who assists members with ailing joints and pain, and an aquatic specialist for pool-based therapy. In line with the philosophy of comprehensive well-being, there are also shorter workshops on topics such as meditation, breathwork, tai chi, journaling and other inspiring, life-changing techniques. The hair salon and beauty spa, located in the same building as the fitness centre, are naturally a meaningful part of well-being. Having the fitness and beauty centres under the same roof is a nod to the idea of overall health and well-being. Oasis of Feasts All the fitness and energy-consuming activities must be complemented by nutrition, and not just of the spiritual kind. The answer is found in the Ocean Reef Club Cultural Center, which provides an impressive array of entertainment and educational events, musical performances, live theatre and lectures, as well as firstrun movies in the 300-seat theatre. The club's restaurant selection is astonishing in its abundance. Fourteen restaurants offer amazingly diverse options, ranging from fivestar fine dining to simpler sushi. After all, the club's members are seasoned world travellers who are used to enjoying the delicacies and services of some of the globe's top restaurants. Why would they settle for less at their own club, which itself ranks among the world's elite? The restaurants form the pillars of life at Ocean Reef, being the places where the active and social member base gathers together with friends, family and business partners to enjoy good food and great drinks, either as a part of daily activities or in conjunction with various events. There is something for everyone at the Ocean Reef Club, from fresh seafood and sushi to succulent steaks, Asian stir-fries and classic wood-fired pizzas. For the most passionate foodies there are dozens of cookery courses led by food writers, celebrity chefs and Ocean Reef's own chefs. Never Sit Still We asked Philippe Reynaud, Director of Culinary Operations at the Ocean Reef Club and therefore the man in charge of the club's restaurant selections, events and chef visits, how the offerings at the club are developed.

"Entertaining our elite membership roster on a daily basis requires consistent excellence; not only quality but variety of menu content, and also attracting world-class guest chefs. I love the `never sit still' stimulation that comes with the responsibility of running a broad range of multiple kitchens. The everincreasing variety of catered events, special functions, celebrations and traditions never get boring. I learn every day and thrive as a professional in this environment. Following every season we gather our member and guest feedback. With the new ideas we then formulate a plan, add a generous pinch of creativity and set this plan in motion," Reynaud explains. Originally hailing from the French Riviera, Philippe Reynaud had already built himself an impressive career in establishment ­ especially casino restaurants ­ in France and the United States, before ending up at the Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo in 2000. Together with his chefs, Reynaud formulates ambitious plans for the restaurants and their offerings. "Our philosophy in food offering is based on quality ingredients and developing culinary talent. We have a true commitment to the finest quality in the ingredients we use, including meats that are natural and free of growth hormones, locally caught and sourced seafood and locally grown sustainable produce. We have also expanded vegetarian, gluten-free and our Fit & Sound healthy menu selections. We take pride in our kitchens and the way we present ourselves as professionals. We strive to provide our members and their guests with the finest food quality, preparation and presentation anywhere in Florida, whether they are dining in Club restaurants or privately at catered member events," Reynaud stresses. 105 Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n

106 Offering the level of service captains expect when they enter large international sailing ports, the Ocean Reef Club's marina accommodates 175 yachts up to 175 ft. in length.

"We have had the privilege of living in Ocean Reef for over twenty five years. Ocean Reef is one of the most beautiful, secure, friendly private clubs in the world. Our children went to the Academy P-K8 school, to play golf, caught every fish imaginable and learned to snorkel & scuba on our doorstep. We have made friends for life, our daughter Anna was married at Ocean Reef last November ­ a perfect wedding. Like many Ocean Reef members we have traveled all over the world and owned many homes ­ we always consider Ocean Reef the perfect home. It is always my pleasure to offer waterfront tours to potential members and those interested in property on my boat the Reef Explorer." Mary Lee ­ Member of Ocean Reef Club, real estate professional with Russell Post Sotheby's International Real Estate NOSTO 1. "The Ocean Reef of today exceeds even the collective vision of those involved in the member purchase twenty years ago. It is a unique an irreproducible combination of the natural beauty of mangrove islands and live coral reefs, the activities of boating, diving, fishing, golf, tennis,and croquet, plus art and cultural facilities, all topped off with our own world-class medical clinic. But what makes Ocean Reef really special is our national cross-section of warm, friendly people. I feel very lucky to live here and can't imagine living anywhere else." Tom Davidson, Chairman of the Medical Center and member of the executive board of the Ocean Reef Community Foundation NOSTO 2. "We have had the privilege of living in Ocean Reef for over twenty-five years. Ocean Reef is one of the most beautiful, secure, friendly private clubs in the world. Our children went to the Academy, a Pre-K-8 school, learned to play golf, caught every fish imaginable, and learned to snorkel and scuba on our doorstep. We have made friends for life and one of our daughters was married at Ocean Reef last November ­ a perfect wedding. Like many Ocean Reef members, we have travelled all over the world and had many homes, but we always consider Ocean Reef the perfect home." Mary Lee 107 Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n

108 Catering to members who are accustomed to top restaurants and who make ample use of their services motivates Reynaud and his team to create the best possible food and offerings for the club. "To develop our service I need to stay fresh, think outside the box, stay involved with clientele and interact with members on a daily basis, gathering feedback or informing and educating them about our food offerings. Market research, a.k.a. dining out, to see what other chefs do, is important to stay current. I constantly follow different restaurant menus, as well as different themes and ideas that are being executed elsewhere. A part of development is continuing professional education, and networking with other chefs keeps us ahead of the curve in food trends and interesting to our membership." Close networking with other chefs is one of the main characteristics of restaurant operations at the Ocean Reef Club. Reynaud and his team receive ideas, trend updates and new cooking techniques from the experts that visit the resort. "Every year our cooking school invites twenty culinary celebrities, including chefs and cookbook authors from around the world, to conduct three-hour demonstration classes while revealing their recipes, insights and personal stories in our interactive Culinary Arts Center. On top of this, our Ocean Reef Clubhouse hosts an exclusive "Vine to Table" dining series, pairing leading winemakers with star chefs who are challenged with the task of planning a menu to enhance their featured wines. This year we've hosted many chef celebrities, including Chicagoan star chef Rick Tramonto, television chef Sara Moulton, chef Thomas Buckley from Nobu Miami, chef David Pasternack from Esca in Manhattan and chef Michael Schwartz of Michael's Genuine Food and Drink in Miami," Reynaud says. Information is also shared within Reynaud's team, which consists of ambitious young master chefs. They are committed to the restaurants they are entrusted with, running them as if they were their own. This creates a constructive sort of competition between the restaurants, which benefits the club's members and guests. Their passionate creativity has also led to the birth of many modern classic dishes that have achieved great popularity among visitors. In other words, the culinary side is well taken care of at the Ocean Reef Club. When it comes to wines, most of the restaurants at the resort have similar assortments. The selection is fairly narrow, focusing mainly on American wines. There are few options on offer from, for example, the classic French regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But it is important to know that members can have almost any wine in the world shipped to the club through the Wine & Spirit store on site. In addition, customers are served by the club's energetic and competent Head Sommelier T. J. Solan, who is happy to assist in any winerelated matter ­ be it serving recommendations, purchase advice or event organisation. Perhaps even more valuable than the great diversity of food and wine on offer at the Ocean Reef Club and its numerous restaurants is this knowledge that members are in the safe and highly competent hands of Reynaud and Solan, who have the ability and the willingness to fulfil even their wildest dreams when it comes to creating moments of sublime enjoyment. Club members hail from almost every state in the US and as many as 30 other countries. There are families with highly diverse histories and cultural backgrounds. They do share one significant factor, however: time ­ or rather, awareness of its limited nature and its opportunities. According to Paul Astbury, they also have in common authenticity and a strong community spirit: "Members hold the same values and perspectives, which aligns toward a family-friendly, active and engaging lifestyle where the choice of options for dining, golfing, fishing, learning, socialising and creating are important. They are people who are genuine and don't feel the need to express their success through material possessions, yet want to be surrounded by other successful people in an environment where they can enjoy the benefits that accrue to high achievers. It's all the amenities of a large city in a smalltown atmosphere." The sunrise dampens the starlight and awakens the ocean. The sun, with its energetic brilliance, shines off early-bird golfers and joggers, gilding the silhouettes of fishing boats that are coasting out to sea and drying the salty locks of early-morning swimmers. Time chugs on tirelessly on the wide streets of Ocean Reef, just like the quiet golf carts. No one seems to be in a hurry, yet everyone seems to be in motion. Motion is the embodiment of time and it cannot be stopped. Similarly, Ocean Reef never stops. This is ensured by its more than 4000 active members who, like myself, have fallen in love with this gorgeous place and its time passage. Although the days seem to go by quickly at the Ocean Reef Club, they are filled with valuable experiences and memories that will remain as permanent and bright as the stars in the night sky. > Bridging Cultures Ocean Reef also answers that most basic of human needs: to feel part of something much bigger. Ocean Reef

Health awareness is an important part of the philosophy at the Ocean Reef Club. The club's health and fitness programme also covers some of the restaurant offerings. The three-course Fit & Sound menus have been created around the simple principle of preparing recipes using fresh and unprocessed ingredients. The used recipes are nutritionally balanced: low in fat, sodium, and sugar only whole foods and grains are used maximum 4 oz. of animal protein per meal can be included most of the food is locally grown "We do not exceed 600 calories per meal, allowing our members to enjoy a 5 oz. glass of wine (+125 cal.) per meal," Reynaud says, affirming that wine is good for you when consumed responsibly. To keep the meals low in calories yet substantial, low-density produce is used, such as cucumbers, tomatoes and potatoes, while high-density foods like butter, nuts, refined oils and foie gras are avoided. F t & S un Menus The Islander and Sushi Bar Restaurant (casual) Chef: Jason Stocks Coriander-Crusted Line-Caught Tuna Cornmeal-Dusted Key Largo Snapper with Sweet Corn Succotash Peekytoe Crab and Organic Arugula The Ocean Room Restaurant (buffet) Chef: Matthias Stumpff Cucumber Finger Frappé Strawberry Tango Mango Smoothie e vourites mong he o o rn om nati ns he i nt staurants : Ocean Reef Club members have selected the following as the Club's "signature dishes", those that are family favourites and that over the generations still define the traditional culture of local Keys dining. Conch Chowder Conch Fritters Classic Yellowtail Snapper Key Lime Pie Reynaud says that although the members have a broad palate, these signature dishes are always among the first to be enjoyed when arriving at the Reef. Mu - ry ishes he O ea Ree Clu The Ocean Room Saturday Night Seafood Buffet with full iced boat display of shrimp, shucked local oysters, steamed Maine lobster, locally caught stone crab claws, fresh king crab, an assortment of sushi and sashimi, plus various "fresh catch" ceviche-style martinis. Also available are an own-aged Angus Prime Rib Roast, a SaltCrusted Grouper and Northwestern-Style Cedar Plank Wild Salmon. The dinners have featured many local guest chefs preparing their own specialities, such as paella, cioppino, lobster or diver scallop risottos. The Galley Restaurant (casual) Chef: Kipp Bourdeau Bourbon-Glazed Prime Iron Steak Key Largo Cioppino, featuring locally caught seafood The Clubhouse Restaurant (fine dining) Chef: Dominic Gorton Stuffed Baby Calamari with Sweet Italian Sausage and Zucchini Blossoms Fennel-Dusted Diver Sea Scallops, Butternut Squash Purée with Fall Spices and Watercress Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette The Raw Bar (casual) Cracked Stone Crab Claws with Traditional Mustard Sauce Seared Fresh Tuna with Wasabi Cream Sauce 109 Ocean Reef Club 35 Ocean Reef Drive Key Largo FL. 33037 www.oceanreef.com Office: +1 (305) 367 2611 Ext. 5391 Fax: +1 (305) 367 5870 Cell: +1 (305) 522 5246 Information & inquiries on Ocean Reef John Lee johnlee@legendsinvitational.com Cell: +1 (305) 395 8500 Fi n e D e s t i nat i o n

110 john kapon arty of the Year very New Year's Eve I nd myself in the same place, year a er year. No matter where I am in the world, I make sure that I land in New York on the a ernoon of the 31st. And why wouldn't I? When the King of Champagne comes calling for an evening of celebration, it is always wise to RSVP accordingly. It is safe to say that no one has opened more great champagne for more people than Rob. Maybe Richard Juhlin has tasted more, and that is a maybe, but I doubt he has shared his portfolio as openly and e ortlessly as the KoC. Now Big Boy is not exactly someone I would call introverted, but trust me when I tell you that is exactly what you don't want him to be when you are a guest in his home, particularly on New Year's Eve. I was there early, P E and some interesting and eclectic non-vintage ­ make that multi-vintage ­ Krugs started things o curiously, though not incredibly impressively. A case of multi-vintage halves from the 1970s was a bit oxidized and bere of bubbles, although its nose seduced at rst. There were initially warm, inviting caramel and vanilla notes that soon waned into a thin palate lacking substance. The thing about multi-vintages is that they can age and be spectacular, as Bruce the Returner reminded me. It is just that these particular half-bottles were anything but. Therefore, I was quickly on to a multi-vintage Krug Rosé from the 1980s. This was delightful, clean and fresh, light yet with an extreme nish. It maintained delicious strawberry dust avours, and I took a quick re ll. (93 points) A 1966 Bollinger led us into welcome vintage territory, but did not make me feel welcome with its simple and one-dimensional palate. It was mature and pleasant in the nose, but another wine that did not deliver upon the promise of what it should have/could have been. (90 points) The 1966 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart set our course back on target with an intriguing nose of honey, vanilla and lilac, all de ly woven. There was a nice sprightliness to its palate, with lean, sweet wheat avours and almost yellow carob. Its nish was lemony, and Olof noted "copper", although I was not sure if he was talking about his investment strategy. Big Boy said something about a ten-case parcel, and I de nitely think he was talking about his investment strategy. (94 points)

Then came the magnums; everything from here on out was served in magnum or jeroboam. We stayed on route '66 with a 1966 Louis Roederer Cristal. It was another mature nose, in a heavy white molasses direction and not as expressive as the old Cristals usually are. Its palate was more like it, still tasty with orange blossoms, game and a sweet, big and nutty nish. It clearly had the best density of anything so far, and the guy with the ve Harleys that Vince McMahon was looking for took o his horns to declare that "the '66 rocks". Nonetheless, it was an a ected bottle, and one that had the most sophisticated palates abuzz with discussion due to its two-sided story. (95 points) A 1971 Ruinart de Brimont Reserve de Vicomte was the rst of our 1971s, as the rest of the evening would be purely about the `71s and `61s. Actually, more "ones" were planned in honour of 2011, but I only made it to a little past 2am. I need to get that report, come to think of it. I was not sure if the Ruinart was a di erent Ruinart house, as the label was completely di erent to anything I had seen from Ruinart but apparently Brimont and its vineyards is the ancestral home of Ruinart. However, this was an entry-level vintage champagne and clearly not the "tête de cuvée". It had an apple-like nose, and while nice and smooth, it did not stand out. Bruce politically hailed it as "a good example of a great vintage". (91 points) The 1971 Dom Pérignon began a monster streak of six killer champagnes in a row from Big Boy, much like Derek Jeter delivers during the World Series. Rob added six runs scored and twelve runs batted in on top with the array that followed. The DP was classic with its sugary, vanilla wafer nose. It was rich, delicious and full of granulated sugar avours, to the point where I thought about making one almighty a Bollini Royale, or whatever mixed drinks they make with bubbly. I happen to always drink it straight, so I do not really know about these things. Although a touch sweet it was, all in all, outstanding. (95 points) The 1971 Dom Pérignon Rosé was an "infant" per Lady Agah, the artist formerly known as the Angry Chick. It is 2011, time to reinvent yourself, in case you did not get the memo. The DP Rosé had wet earth aromas with light strawberry ones to match; both were deep and coiled, seemingly ready to strike. Its palate was huge with "insane" structure, and enough acidity for a college university chemistry programme. Dry and powerful, this was a perfect bottle of this wine, taking o like a rocket ship throughout its jet-fuelled nish. There were gorgeous avours unfolding as it opened, particularly in the red and rose direction, with more earth as well. Lady Agah continued: "It is like a red wine", paying its density and structure a compliment. It was a beautiful monster, indeed. I am sure its score will improve with time, but it is just not quite there yet ­ there being 97 points and above. (96 points) The magnum of 1971 Krug Collection answered the bell swinging, and was already there with a signature nose of mountainous, sweet and complex vanilla aromas. Super sexy white fruits and nuts provided the landscape on which they sat. The palate was again huge, with big, rich and "wondrous" fruit. Massive and long, its buttery fruit was just starting to show some skin in the mouth ­ the skin was not so , but damn it felt good. It did open well, taking the de nition of delicious just one step further with each sip. (97 points) The 1971 Salon was served a bit cold and le a few searching for more in it. However, the nose was intense and wound with stony, anise aromas, but it was unyielding. It felt like we were bothering it, disturbing it too soon, as its palate was incredibly shy and wound, at rst tickled by a steak of wood. While rich, big and long, it was too tight. This particular magnum did not shine as brightly as Salon can, but it was still outstanding. (95 points) The next wine was so tasty that I invented a word in its honour ­ "yow". That is yum and wow together, by the way. This magnum of 1961 Dom Pérignon was an extremely rare, original and non-"Wedding Cuvée" ­ Charles' and Diana's, that is. The Royals snapped up most of the production for the wedding, a wise choice indeed, as Bruce declared that this was "one of the greatest champagnes ever made", and he would know. I thought about it for a second and, a er one sip, I concurred. 1961 has always blown me away, but I had never put it in the context of the greatest of all-time until then. The nose was fantastic, with a wealth of gold encased in a young personality despite it being an original bottling. There was great fruit here, with none of the excessive sugar of the '71. Its avours were rich, big, bold and all balanced by superb acidity. Somehow, despite all of its avour, it managed to retain a delicacy to its personality. Spectacular stu . (98 points) The last champagne that I had during the evening was the one served just before the stroke of midnight ­ a jeroboam of 1961 Pommery sabered by Big Boy himself, which is no easy task for a jeroboam. Upon sabering the bottle in one stroke, the King of Champagne announced: "There will be books about me when I am dead." Everyone was feeling great, 2011 was upon us, and the Pommery held up its part of the bargain, delivering another special experience. Its fruit was sweet, yellow and dusty with aromas of lemon squares. It was both mature and young, in that sweet spot that I would like to think I will be for another thirty-plus years myself. The palate was special and outstanding. This was a great drink as pre70s Pommerys usually are. (95 points) What would be a Big Boy way to ring in the New Year? Twin jeros of 1971 DRC, of course. Those that have known me for a long time know my love a air with 1971 DRCs is no secret. Just because it is my birth year is mere coincidence! The 1971 DRCs are spectacular, and these two jeros cemented that fact at the bottom of the Hudson River for any of those who deny it. The 1971 DRC Richebourg began 2011 in ne fashion with an inviting nose of old yet fresh Burgundy fruit. Dank red fruits danced about in a muddy nose of tomato, rose and sea salt. The jero was a little dirty at rst, but that is usually a good thing a er midnight. The palate opened up into a saucy mouthful of red fruits with a light caramel coating. Long 111 and distinguished, it was a special wine. (95 points) There was nowhere to go a er the jeroboam of 1971 DRC La Tâche was opened. It cornered us all, towering over us with its greatness. I have had the good fortune of having tasted this wine about een times in my life, and I cannot wait for the next een. About ten years a er having it for the rst time, it is still every drop as good. Consistently 98 points ever since I met it, this jeroboam was no di erent. The breed, the stature, the depth of concentration and character in the nose - it could only be La Tâche. Every positive superlative you could ever use about an older burgundy and about 1971 in general was right here. I will end this note by saying just that everyone should make sure they drink a good bottle of this before all is said and done. (98 points) This was yet another memorable beginning to what will most certainly be another memorable year, and many thanks again to the most generous collector on Earth for sharing from his extraterrestrial cellar. > Rob / King of Champagne / Big Boy = Rob Rosania, real estate icon and a great collector of champagne Lady Agah = Wendy Agah, Director of Client Relations for Acker Olof = a friend from Scandinavian, wine enthusiast alike Bruce the Returner = prefers to stay anonymous Fi n e K a p o n

112 The FINEst Wines Dinner at Ocean Reef Club T he Ocean Reef Club, located on the island of Key Largo in Florida, is one of the world's most unique private clubs. Every year, the club's four thousand members ­ comprising successful executives, business leaders and many heads of state ­ are invited to a charity auction. This year, one of the auctioned items was a FINEst Wines dinner, for which FINE Magazines donated extremely rare, valuable wines, ranging from a 1907 champagne found at the bottom of the sea to a 1947 Pétrus. The lot was auctioned for USD 80 000. The wine-tasting dinner, held at the Ocean Reef Club on March 25, brought together ten guests to enjoy an experience the likes of which they had never had before. The Carysfort Grille function room, located by the beautiful boat harbour at the Ocean Reef Club, offers an elegant setting for private events. At the end of the redcarpeted entrance, club hosts John and Mary Lee are joined by the couple who bid for the event at the auction to welcome the guests for dinner.

Caviar and Champagne The event begins in style with The Best Champagne 2011, Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 (94p). The guests are charmed by the champagne's temptingly baked taste, as well as by its story. Known as Marilyn Monroe's favourite champagne house, Piper-Heidsieck first created its luxury champagne in the exceptionally hot conditions of 1976. Despite the difficult circumstances, the producer managed to create an excellent batch of top-quality champagne, and due to the exceptionally meagre harvest of that year it was named Rare. Since that time, only seven vintages of Rare have Monopole Goût Américain 1907 champagne (98p), which lay at the bottom of the sea for nearly a century and which is now one of the rarest and most valuable wines in the world, is poured. More Champagne Delicacy from Under the Sea been produced, and the most celebrated of those is the one that is now on the market. At our dinner it is accompanied by delicious appetizers: Grilled oysters with truffled gouda (92p) and pan-seared Catalina Island abalone with yuzu aioli (90p). The dining hall also boasts a caviar bar, decorated with ice sculptures, where fresh blinis are being fried as an accompaniment for the Sevruga and Oscietra caviars. A side table holds the rare wines that will be enjoyed during the dinner, around which Philippe Reynaud, Director of Culinary Operations at the Ocean Reef Club, has built the evening's menu. Guests buzz excitedly around the table before they are seated. After a brief welcome speech from John Lee, the party settles at the dinner table. It is time for one of the highlights of the evening, as the Heidsieck In November 1916, the Germans sank a Swedish schooner carrying more than 2000 bottles of champagne, 10 000 litres of cognac and 17 barrels of Burgundy. When the Swedish diver Peter Lindberg discovered the wreck in May 1997, besides the rotting skeleton of the ship that had lain at a depth of 64 metres and a temperature of four degrees Centigrade for more than 80 years, only the champagne bottles remained. Two of those bottles have now made their way to our dinner table. The surface level of the wines is normal and the bottles appear to be in very good condition. The knowledge that at the Moscow RitzCarlton guests pay 275 000 dollars per bottle of the same wine sparks off an animated debate around the table. Is it really worth that much? We will soon find out. The wines make a promising hissing sound when uncorked. They turn out to be in excellent condition. Their lively half-dry taste is tinged by aromas of dried apricots and nuts. The mouthfeel is rich, and although no bubbles appear in the glass, a light fizz can still be felt in the mouth. The champagne is charming with its energy and balance. Many find it difficult to express this unique taste in words. They wonder how a champagne that is over 100 years old can be so delicious. Someone brings up the price of the wine in Moscow again. The Best of Burgundy After the champagne feast, the diners move on to the world of red wines, as their glasses are filled with two choices: Château HautBrion 1995 (94p) and DRC Romanée-Conti 1976 (93p). For a young wine, the intensely fruity and well-balanced Haut-Brion is surprisingly open, supple and enjoyable. The pride of Burgundy, Romanée-Conti, is welldeveloped and has lost some of its edges over the decades. Its character is demure and reserved, although elegant and very silky in mouthfeel. Each wine offers a different complement to the mellow-flavoured Black truffle & quail consommé en croûte (90p). Perhaps the Romanée-Conti does the consommé a little more justice, respecting its sophisticated flavour profile. 113 John A. Lee and Pekk a Nuikki Fi n e E v e n t The party is in high spirits when chef Philippe Reynaud comes in to present the sevencourse menu. Meanwhile, Ocean Reef's Head Sommelier T. J. Solan pours out a magnum bottle of Dom Pérignon 1976 (94p) ­ the favourite vintage of Dom Pérignon's cellar master, Richard Geoffroy. The golden champagne, with its nutty bouquet and broad mouthfeel, is accompanied by a fine starter in the form of Tuna & hen of the woods with mushroom risotto roll (93p). The intense flavours of the dish, combined with the side of lime caviar and black garlic aioli, are superbly complemented by the wide, nutty Dom Pérignon.

The Perfect Wine Smoke in the Air 114 Next, the evening's most striking dishes are brought to the table, covered in smoke-filled glass domes. As the domes are removed, the air becomes filled with a light, smoky aroma, which first brings to mind toasted popcorn. Chef Reynaud introduces the dish as Caraway-Infused corn custard with redland organic honey-glazed foie gras with a light smoke of applewood. The flavours are intense. The sweetcorn purée is a delicate counterpart to the crisp-fried, salty foie gras. The Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1970 (94p) served with it from a magnum bottle is velvety. Its tannins have softened completely and the long aftertaste has lively acids and a ripe, fruity character. The combination is surprisingly apt. Pétrus Versus Screaming Eagle The first of two main courses is Feuille brick-wrapped natural lamb tenderloin with yogurt mint bubble and majarama red pepper almond sauce (97p). The tender lamb, along with its accompaniments, fairly melts in the mouth. Overall, the dish consists of fresh, herb-tinged aromas and full flavours. It is served with larger-than-life wines. The wine in the first glass, Pétrus 1947, is one of the most renowned wines of all time. Immediately after opening it gives an impression of its greatness with a multidimensional taste, but after just a few minutes it begins to close. This is probably due to the fact that it had been transported to Key Largo from Europe just the previous day. The wine does not show its typical mellow, fruity and nuanced character, but rather has earthy and plummy aromas. Usually a 100-point wine, this time it is only worth 92 points. The unfortunate occurrence is counteracted, however, by the two young vintages of America's most desirable wine, Screaming Eagle, which are brought out. Although the wines are still too young to fully show off their multidimensional characters, they are still charming with their intensity and energy after a decanting time of eight hours. It is interesting to compare the two vintages, 2006 (92p) and 2005 (93p), especially as it is known that the estate's winemaker changed at just that time. The legendary winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett was behind the temptingly chocolaty, jammy and suave 2005 vintage, whereas the velvety-thick and richly spiced 2006 was made by Andy Erickson. Both wines work very well with the lamb, while the Pétrus is slightly overwhelmed by the dish. The second main course of the evening is leek ash-crusted fillet of Kobe beef with bone marrow gremolata and roasted porcini mushroom jus (95p). A rich and tasty dish, where the flavour and structure of the medium-rare Kobe beef shines through with perfect side notes from the other ingredients. The wines that are paired up for this course are first growths from two separate continents: a Château Lafite-Rothschild from the magnificent vintage of 1961 (96p), served from a magnum bottle, and the Harlan Estate 1997 (95p), which is also an excellent vintage. The young Harlan's full-bodied, chewy and jammy character works well with the food, but the wine itself is overshadowed by the Lafite, which is at its perfect drinking age. The profile of the Lafite combines all of the properties of a top Bordeaux: a refined aromatic quality, lively acidity, nuanced minerals, well-balanced tannins and blackcurranty fruitiness tinged by cigarbox and dark chocolate aromas. The Lafite complements the dish, and each leaves room for the other's refined tastes. It is a perfect combination.

Sweet Treats Unforgettable Ending The amazing dinner ends with a rarity: a 170-year-old port which is almost impossible to find on the market. The 1834 Manuel N. Perez Porto Reserva (94p) is a dessert in itself. The lively conversation at the dinner table quietens down as everyone concentrates on evaluating the oldest wine they have ever tasted. The brown, somewhat cloudy wine has seductive aromas of chocolate and vanilla. The guests eye each other sceptically as they lift the glasses to their lips. Soon, though, the richly sweet, generously chocolaty and nutty wine reaches their taste buds and the tension in the air dissipates. The guests rush to praise the elegantly developed port. The port is accompanied by a cheese platter with five local artisanal cheeses, to which the wine is a fine complement. Before coffee it is time to thank chef Philippe Reynaud and his team. Everyone is 115 many are dying to tell their friends about the experience. Word gets round, and in the next few days we answer many calls asking when the next event will take place. Based on our experience of the evening and the feedback received, it seems clear that they can hardly wait until next year's auction. > unanimous about the food: it is the best they have had at the Ocean Reef Club. As for the wines, the evening is beyond description for most guests. Everyone has their own preferences among the evening's wines, but the most exciting experience for all was the shipwreck champagne. As the guests exit the building, Tasted Wines: 2002 Piper-Heidsieck Rare, Champagne ­ France 1907 Heidsieck & Co Monopole Goût Américain, Champagne ­ France 1976 Dom Pérignon Magnum, Champagne ­ France 1995 Château Haut-Brion, Péssac-Léognan / Bordeaux ­ France 1976 DRC Romanée-Conti, Bourgogne ­ France 1970 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Magnum, Graves / Bordeaux ­ France 1947 Pétrus, Pomerol / Bordeaux ­ France 2005 Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley ­ USA 2006 Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley ­ USA 1997 Harlan Estate, Napa Valley ­ USA 1961 Château Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac / Bordeaux ­ France 2001 Kracher Trockenbeerenauslese Grande Cuvée No. 6 "Nouvelle Vague" 2001, Neusiedlersee ­ Austria 1837 Manuel N. Perez Vintage Port, Douro ­ Portugal Points: 93p 98p 94p 94p 92p 94p 92p 92p 93p 95p 97p 94p 94p Fi n e E v e n t The main courses are followed by a fairly heavy chocolate dessert, the German chocolate pyramid, which is accompanied by one of the world's best dessert wines: Kracher Grande Cuvée TBA No. 6 "Nouvelle Vague" 2001 (95p). The nectar made from pourriture noble Chardonnay and Welschriesling grapes has been fermented and matured for 18 months in new oak barrels, which have given the wine a delightfully vanilla-tinged, burnt aroma. The nearly 230 grams of residual sugar ensure that it can stand up even to the sweetest of desserts, such as today's chocolate delicacy. Meanwhile, the wine's acidity pleasantly undercuts the sweetness of the wine and the dessert. An excellent combination. Juha Lihtonen, John A.Lee, Pek ka Nuikki, Giovanni Melis and T.J.Sloan

OCEAN REEF CLUB ­ FINE CHARITY TASTING CHAMPAGNE NOTES Heidsieck Monopole Goût Américain 1907 Champagne, France 98p 93p 116 Average price: 140 Colour: Bright, straw yellow Nose: Intense, toasty, citrussy Palate: Dry, crisp, firm, lean. Ending: Long and harmonious finish with citrus and toasty notes In a word: Firm and charming Buy or not: Absolutely yes Tasted: 60 times / April 2011 Decanting time 30 minutes Glass time: 1.5 hours When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Rare 2002 Champagne, France Average price: 7,800 Colour: Moderately light, brown Nose: Rich, dried apricots, bee wax Palate: Medium-sweet, vivid acidity, supple and intense Ending: Lingering, complex and nutty In a word: Balanced and concentrated wine Buy or not: Dont trust on your luck -most of these are already badly oxidated. Tasted: 30 times, last April 2011 Decanting time ­ Glass time: 15 minutes When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Inside information: Now Fried foie gras Low The bottles rested 82 years in 64 metres depth on a sea bottom. The same champagne and vintage was also served on Titanic. In Moscow Ritz-Carlton this wine has been on sale at 275 000 US dollars. Or try this: Virgin Galactic's suborbital spaceflights 94p Average price: 850 Colour: Bright, golden Nose: Broad, complex, nutty Palate: Dry, medium acidity, creamy texture, nutty Ending: Seductive and long In a word: Rich and complex Buy or not: Go for it Tasted: 6 times / March 2011 Decanting time ­ Glass time: 45 minutes Dom Pérignon 1976 Magnum Champagne, France Now­2010 Gratinated lobster Low The best champagne in the world in 2011 Or try this: Krug Vintage 1998 Final verdict: A great wine When to drink: Now­2020 Food pairing: Guinea fowl with creamy chanterel sauce Fake factor: Medium Inside The favorite Dom information: Pérignon vintage currently for Dom Pérignon cellarmaster Richard Geoffroy Or try this: Dom Pérignon 1973 Final verdict: The best Dom Pérignon of 1970s

Guide Bettane et Desseauve: Millésime Exception 2004: ample et généreux, champagne de grande opulence (16/20). Guide Robert Parker: Millésime Exception 2002: 91 pts The World of Fine Wine: Millesime Exception 2004: 16,5 Markus Gyorgy (Hongrie): Bourgogne et Champagne: Millésime Exception 2002: 92 pts Geir Salvesen (Oslo Norvège): Mat & Vin best champagne: Millésime Exception 2002: 5*

extraordinary hosts is now one of Blackberry Farm's most anticipated guests. This Spring, Blackberry Farm is honored to welcome the incomparable Chef Alain Ducasse as part of yet another year of unparalleled experiences. Situated in the Tennessee foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, Blackberry Farm's Relais & Châteaux property has become one of the most celebrated epicurean destinations in the world. With its 160,000-bottle Grand Award-winning wine selection and the peaceful serenity of 4,200 protected acres, Blackberry Farm is home to more than 30 exclusive Food & Wine events in 2011. To reserve your place for Alain Ducasse or any of our special events, contact our Reservations Team, or log on to blackberryfarm.com to view a complete listing of our yearlong calendar of culinary experiences, outdoor adventures and more. one of the world's most Walland, Tennessee 00.1.865.984.8166 blackberryfarm.com

World-renowned chef, restaurateur and hotelier Alain Ducasse visits Blackberry Farm along with vintner Christophe Perrot-Minot Alain Ducasse MAY 9-12, 2011 a celebration of exceptional Rhône varietals featuring Yves Gangloff, Christophe Baron, Sara Pérez, René Barbier and John Alban MAY 19-22, 2011 Hospice du Rhône featuring chef and cheese expert Terrance Brennan and Bordeaux vintner Thomas Duroux of Château Palmer JUNE 9-12, 2011 Classique featuring pastry chef François Payard and vintner Jenne Lee Bonaccorsi of Bonaccorsi Wine Company DECEMBER 4-7, 2011 Delicious Decadence

THE MOST UP-TO-DATE KNOWLEDGE OF FINE AND RARE WINES ­ WHEREVER YOU ARE Subscribe now! All FINE titles are available in print and in interactive digital format. www.fine-magazines.com New! New! FINEst Wines FINE ­ The Wine Magazine FINE ­ The American Wine Magazine FINE ­ The Scandinavian Wine Magazine FINE ­ Das Weinmagazin FINE Wine & Champagne India FINE Champagne

Fo ni t nn tes C e 11 13 16 22 28 36 50 58 64 70 74 76 81 84 88 96 110 112 Fine Avellan Editorial Fine Nuikki It's the Journey, Not the Destination Fine Personality Richard Geoffroy 2011 Fine Legend Champagne Charlie ­ A Winner Fine Producer Charles Heidsieck Fine Champagne Champagne ­ The Best Accompaniment & Food to Food Fine City Spotlight on Sydney Fine Science Champagne Time Travellers Fine Discovering Reims Champagne Fine Champagne Champagne Up in the Treetops Bar Fine Juhlin Shipwrecked Champagne Uncorked Fine Treasure Champagne Treasure from the Deep Fine History The Story of Champagne ­ Part 1 Fine Celebration Dom Pérignon 1961 ­ The Choice of Champagne Charles and Diana Fine Event Canadian Champagne Dinner Fine Destination Ocean Reef Fine Kapon Party of the Year Fine Event The Finest Wines Dinner at Ocean Reef Club <<< Return to the coverpage