­ the best customer care in the business Here at FINE, we believe that not only do our customers appreciate the best service in the field, but that they also need to be looked after in a very personal way. So, instead of selling only magazine subscriptions, we want to offer you more. A lot more. To be caring and supportive in all matters concerning top wines: that is our promise to you. When you become a FINE client by choosing a service package most suited to your needs from the subscription list, we will make sure that your knowledge and know-how in fine wines will quickly increase. You will stay ahead of the pack in terms of fine wines and be well informed as to how the best wines fare on the market and in the glass, as well as where to get them and how to tell fakes from the real ones. FINE WINE SUBSCRIPTION FINE WINE Subscriptions FINE CHAMPAGNE SUBSCRIPTION This package includes everything you will ever want to know about champagne and the effervescent lifestyle that surrounds it. It keeps you abreast of the world of champagne with the world's only champagne magazine, current newsletters, books and other services that are included in the package. When you want to gain access to the world of top wines and be among the first to learn about wine happenings, the most recent tasting experiences and vintage analyses, but you don't collect or invest heavily in wines, this is made just for you. This package reveals the fascinating stories behind the world's finest wines and makes sure that you stay up to date regarding top wines through the leading FINE Wine Magazine, newsletters, books and other services that are included in the package. For more information click here For more information click here FINE RARE SUBSCRIPTION If you are wine enthusiast, FINE RARE includes everything you need and more. We will make sure that you will be the first to hear about what happens in the world of fine wines, as well as telling you every week which wines are at their best right now and how their prices are developing. In addition, we will also warn you about the fakes on the market. The package consists of the leading magazines concerning fine wine: FINE the Wine Magazine and FINE Champagne Magazine, all our wine guides, The 1000 Finest Wines Ever Made book ­ which is considered to be the Michelin Guide of the wine world ­ and a unique array of other services. FINEst SUBSCRIPTION We have designed this package for wine collectors, investors and professionals. It offers the most current knowledge of the world's best wines, their drinkability today, price developments and the handling of the wines ­ all on a daily basis. The package includes everything you can imagine, including the world's only Wine Investing Magazine, FINE Champagne and Wine Magazines, books and guides, a professional tasting tool and community, the world's only FINE Wine Auction Index, and invitations to events around the world. This is a package that only the world's leading FINE Wine Media can offer you. We will ensure that you stay immersed in everything related to the top wines of the world on every single day of the week. For more information click here For more information click here W O R L D ' S O N L Y C H A M P A G N E No. 9 £ 2 5 · 3 0 · U S $ 3 5 · C a n $ 3 5 · A u s $ 3 5 M A G A Z I N E Best Glass For Champagne · Vintage 1990 · Spotlight Helsinki · L'Assiette Champenoise · Steinway Pianos 1 0 0 B E ST C H A M PAG N E S F O R 2 0 1 2

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"Le Dom aine Les Cr ayères" one of the most "Le Dom aine Les Cr ayères" one of the most Today, more than ever before, Le Domaine Les Crayères reaffirms the desire Today, more than ever before, Le Domaine Les Crayères reaffirms the desire and determination to be a living celebration of Champagne ­ the region, the and determination to be a living celebration of Champagne ­ the region, the beverage, and the lifestyle it embodies ­ both for Reims and for the world. beverage, and the lifestyle it embodies ­ both for Reims and for the world. What we have to offer is unique: our five-star hotel « Le Château », our What we have to offer is unique: our five-star hotel « Le Château », our gourmet restaurant « Le Parc », our new brasserie « Le Jardin », our superb gourmet restaurant « Le Parc », our new brasserie « Le Jardin », our superb setting so close to the city centre, in the very midst of Champagne and its setting so close to the city centre, in the very midst of Champagne and its consummate, celebrated beverage... consummate, celebrated beverage... Member of Relais & Châteaux Member of Relais & Châteaux Member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde Member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde Email: contact@lescrayeres.com Email: contact@lescrayeres.com www.lescrayeres.com www.lescrayeres.com

Philippe Mille brings out the natural best of les Crayères' Philippe Mille brings out the natural best of les Crayères' at the gourmet restaurant «Le Parc» and the brasserie «Le Jardin»... at the gourmet restaurant «Le Parc» and the brasserie «Le Jardin»... At his side, the wine and champagne expertise of Head Sommelier Philippe Jamesse. At his side, the wine and champagne expertise of Head Sommelier Philippe Jamesse. b e a u t i f u l v a c a t i o n r e s o r t s i n t h e w o r l d .. b e a u t i f u l va c at i o n r e s o rt s i n t h e w o r l d REIMS - CHA MPAGNE - FRANCE REIMS - CHA MPAGNE - FRANCE Domaine Les Crayères --64 boulevard Henry Vasnier --51100 REIMS --Tel ::+33 (0)3 26 24 90 00 --Fax ::+33 (0)3 26 24 90 01 Domaine Les Crayères 64 boulevard Henry Vasnier 51100 REIMS Tel +33 (0)3 26 24 90 00 Fax +33 (0)3 26 24 90 01

CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Editor Essi Avellan MW essi.avellan@fine-magazines.com Publisher Meri Kukkavaara meri@fine-magazines.com Copy Editor Craig Houston craig.houston@fine-magazines.com Creative Director Teemu Timperi teemu.timperi@fine-magazines.com Graphic Designer Joo Sung Kang joo@fine-magazines.com Cover art & illustrations Minna Liukkonen Senior Adviser Charles A. Banks Contributors Oumy Diaw, Andreas Larsson, Peter Liem, John Kapon, Jan-Erik Paulson, Amanda Regan, Philip Tuck MW, Martin Williams MW, Jukka Sinivirta, Petri Nevalainen Photographers Michael Boudot, Pekka Nuikki Translator Eva Malkki Communications Director Markku Vartiainen markku.vartiainen@fine-magazines.com Sales Martine Mäkijärvi martine.makijarvi@fine-magazines.com Marketing Assistant Sanna Vihervaara sanna.vihervaara@fine-magazines.com Financial Manager Noora Mähönen noora.mahonen@fine-magazines.com Printing House Edita Prima Subscriptions and queries www.fine-magazines.com subs@fine-magazines.com +358 (0)10 289 1000 Publisher Oy Fine Publishing Ltd, 100 Pall Mall, St James London SW1Y 5HP, UK © Copyright: FINE Champagne Magazine Ltd ISSN: 1797-433X WRITERS Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki, founder and editor-in-chief of FINE Magazines, is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He has published over twenty international wine and art books, among them In Vino Veritas, a book on investing in wines, Drinking History on fine wines and their vintages between 1870­1970, a book about the Château Mouton-Rothschild ­ Wine and Art 1924­2003 and most recently a book about the best German white wines. Mr Nuikki is also an award-winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and he has worked as creative director of advertising agency group. He is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Essi Avellan MW Editor Essi Avellan is the first Master of Wine from Finland and second ever from the Nordic countries. She was awarded the Lily Bollinger Medal as the best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award as the best overall student in the Master of Wine examination. In addition to writing champagne books and wine buying guides, Ms Avellan contributes to several newspapers and wine magazines internationally. She judges at several wine competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards. Ms Avellan has been awarded the title of Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Juha Lihtonen Editorial Adviser Juha Lihtonen is the editor of FINE ­ The Wine Magazine and its American & Scandinavian editions and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine buyer of a major cruise line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Andreas Larsson Contributor Andreas Larsson is a regular FINE columnist. The 2007 Best Sommelier of the World, the best sommelier in Europe in 2004 and the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2002, Mr Larsson has worked as a sommelier in the best restaurants in Stockholm and won the Wine International Sommelier Challenge in 2005. He is a member of the Grand Jury Européen and has occupied many wine juror positions around the world. Martin Williams MW Contributor Martin Williams is a Yarra Valley-based winemaker and consultant. Originally from Sydney's northern beaches, Martin studied chemistry and biochemistry at the University of Sydney before embarking on an extended journey into the world of wine. In 1999, Martin became a Master of Wine, and in 2008 he won the Vin de Champagne Award, sponsored in Australia by the CIVC. He is currently continuing his wine consultancy, education and writing activities, while exploring his passions for flying, motorcycle touring, experimental music and the Australian landscape. Peter Liem Contributor Originally from California, Peter Liem emigrated to Champagne in 2006 in order to get an insider's view on his beloved wine region. In addition to being a staff writer and columnist for the Wine & Spirit magazine, Liem publishes the world's best and most comprehensive champagne blog, champagneguide.net. He is recognised as a spokesperson for the grower champagnes. Richard Juhlin Contributor Richard Juhlin is a world-renowned champagne specialist famous for holding the world record for the number of champagnes tasted. Up until today 6946 champagnes have passed his lips. He has also written several books on the subject; Champagneboken in 1995, 2000 Champagnes in 1999, The Great Tasting in 2000, 3000 Champagnes in 2002, 4000 Champagnes in 2004 and the Richard Juhlin Champagne Guide in 2008. In 2002 Juhlin received a "Merite de Agricole" from the French Ministry of Agriculture. Edward Kaukoranta Contributor Edward Kaukoranta represents a new generation of champagne enthusiasts. A founder of several champagne clubs and tasting circles, he organises events and dinners around champagne. Edward's background lies outside the wine and gastronomy fields, but he is an avid consumer of both. Furthermore, he is the co-founder of the thetastingbook.com, which is the world's first professional tastingnote tool and online wine reviewing community. 10 FINE Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Champagne Magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements.

Editorial Fi n e E d i t o r i a l 11 T he news is good: Champagne is back in business after several challenging years of turbulence. Exports recovered well last year, and in fact were up five per cent when compared to the year before. The emerging markets reflect the most impressive growth percentages, with India at +59%, Russia +25%, China +19% and Hong Kong +15%. However, volume-wise, the most important was the United States' 14.4% recovery to 19.4 million bottles sold. The French still drink over half of all the champagne produced but their thirst was somewhat lessened in the last months of 2011 by the economic uncertainties tormenting the European Union. Due to this, the worldwide figure ended up at 323 million bottles sold ­ one per cent up on the previous year. In order to know who is at the top of their game and what is tasting exquisite right now, we have just finished and finalised our extensive tastings of the champagnes available on the markets at this moment in time. Our Top 100 listing suggests the best styles and types of bubbles to be poured in your glass this year. Any champagne making it in our top 100 is, of course, recommendable, as many hundreds more were blind tasted by our panel. However, there must always be one that rises above the rest, and this year our panel was consistently impressed by Taittinger's succulent and refined Comtes de Champagne 2000. This sympathetic house's reputable Blanc de Blancs has no shortage of pedigree, and the richness and voluptuousness of the 2000 vintage left all other champagnes behind. That is not to say, however, that we did not have our other favourites, and you can read the entire ranking in this edition. In this spring issue, we tackle champagne and food in depth. With the aid of top international chefs, we take a close look at matching champagne and shellfish. Furthermore, chef Arnaud Lallement of L'Assiette Champenoise lets us in on a gastronomic secret: any food goes with Krug. A toast to the arriving spring with the newly-crowned king, Comtes de Champagne 2000! P.S. A toast from an ideal glass, I might add. The perfect shape and size of a champagne glass has long been under discussion. To understand the matter, we conducted a tasting from different types of glasses with a range of champagne styles. You can read our findings and recommendations later in this magazine. E ll Essi Avellan MW Editor

Michelin Guide Three Stars San Francisco Chronicle Four Stars The Restaurant at Meadowoood Worth a Special Journey The Restaurant at Meadowood Chef Christopher Kostow

Relationships are core to life in Napa Valley. or the last half century, Napa Valley the original gathering place for the Valley's has provided the panorama for a burgeoning wine community, Meadowood unique way of life--directed by the has now become an international wine industry and acted out by a host of destination and boasts membership within local players. Wine is the thread weaving the the exclusive ranks of Relais & Chateaux. art of man with the Come for a visit. bounty of nature in Walk the fairways a complex pattern on which Auction of relationships-- Napa Valley has relationships that go raised more than $90 to the core of the million since the Valley's legendary first gavel was raised. way of life and set Mingle with the the stage for a story vintners and growers like no other. as they enjoy their The community club through sport that is Napa Valley activities, recreation, contributes to local and the pursuit of enterprise through lifelong wellness. its vast experience Dine on the private and deep-seated terrace of your relationships. In adguestroom or spend dition to grape growthe evening enjoying Master Sommelier Gilles de Chambure ers and wine makers, a meal prepared it includes agriculturalists, great chefs, som- by Michelin Three-Star chef Christopher meliers, maître d's, gallery owners, innkeep- Kostow in The Restaurant at Meadowood. ers and shop proprietors. All depend upon Spend a day exploring the wineries you've each other for their unique livelihood and longed to visit with Gilles de Chambure, lifestyle. Master Sommelier, whose sole role at For the past 46 years Meadowood Meadowood is to enhance guests' knowledge has served as the heart and soul of the and enjoyment of wine. winegrowing community--as a center for A stay at Meadowood offers you entry social and family life and as a second home into an extraordinary way of life. Capture for travelers from around the world wishing the magic of Napa Valley and develop your to immerse themselves in the region, its own relationship with the people that define wines, and its people. Founded in 1964 as this unparalleled experience. F the sporting life at meadowood The forested hillsides of Meadowood's two hundred fifty-acre valley slope to the cool green of the estate's nine-hole, walking golf course. Presiding over the tranquil fairways and the golf teaching facility is Resident Golf Professional Doug Pike. Meadowood's Resident Tennis Professional, Doug King, is one of the country's leading tennis teaching innovators. The founder of Acceleration Tennis, a revolutionary teaching system, King is leading the way in reinterpreting the traditional tennis model, working with players of all skill levels from beginner to professional. Between dining and wine experiences we invite you to stretch your legs with a game of golf or tennis. 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, California 94574 Tel (707) 968-3153 www.meadowood.com

14

In the Kitchen of Arnaud Lallement L'Assiette Champenoise Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot and L'Assiette Champenoise A perfect day's sunset in Champagne some years ago. I have just discovered one of the region's best-kept secrets, Krug's new single-vineyard champagne Clos d'Ambonnay, whose existence this praised champagne house was able to disguise for a over a decade. I am sipping my last drops of its inaugural 1995 vintage at the very origin, the walled single-vineyard plot in Ambonnay, when my host Olivier Krug asks if he could take me and my colleagues for dinner. I eagerly say yes, especially as he is suggesting we dine at L'Assiette Champenoise, a great favourite of mine in Champagne. However, easier said than done, we notice, as Olivier negotiates with the chef, Arnaud Lallement, over the phone for many minutes. "The restaurant is fully booked," Olivier Krug apologises. "We can go there but we need to eat in the kitchen..." Fi n e R e s tau r a n t 15

Oursin de Bretagne Crère d'iode Krug Clos du Mesnil 2000 Saint-Jacques Nage, réduite Krug Clos du Mesnil 2000 Truffes Noires Gnocchis vin jaune Krug Vintage 2000 Bar de Ligne Girolles coriandre Krug Vintage 2000 Cochon Noir Navet rôti Krug Rosé NV OCEAN CRUSTACE TRUFFES MER TERRE POIRE-CARAMEL Krug Rosé NV 16 hat followed was my all-time favourite restaurant experience. It was magical sensing the hustle and bustle of the crowded kitchen, seeing the perfected portions rise one after the other, smelling a rainbow of delicious cooking aromas, and feeling the kitchen temperature rise as the evening went on. Dinner itself was crowned by the charismatic chef's uninterrupted presence and the exquisite pairings of Lallement's dishes and Krug champagnes. W While entertaining in the kitchen might be unusual for both of my hosts, pairing Krug champagnes with L'Assiette Champenoise cuisine is certainly not. Lallement and Krug champagnes go back over a decade now, and Arnaud and Olivier have become friends over the course of the cooperation. L'Assiette Champenoise is, in fact, the largest single seller of Krug, opening over 1200 prestigious bottles every year. Therefore, when we start talking about a L'Assiette Champenoise article for FINE Champagne, Lallement suggests we build the menu around Krug champagnes. I have no objection to that, nor does Lallement to my idea of recreating the memorable dinner in the kitchen. Table for one I arrive at L'Assiette Champenoise's spacious courtyard, which is guarded by high stone walls. The building itself is an old country house whose atmospheric ambiance is enhanced by beautiful lightning, pieces of modern art and an impeccably maintained garden. Inside the building it is all contemporary. I enter the restaurant's bright reception hall and am briskly guided forward by the headwaiter. We pass the stylishly modern dining hall and enter the famous kitchen.

17 Fi n e R e s tau r a n t

Instantly, the fond memories from my previous visit to the kitchen return. The tall, dark, boyishly charming Arnaud Lallement rushes to greet me. Despite his status and success, there is a faint coyed gist about him, adding to his appeal. He escorts me through the large kitchen, shining in stainless steel and crowded by a 20-strong kitchen staff. I take my `usual' seat at the tall table fitted in the back corner of the room. While the chef explains the evening's agenda to the head sommelier Frêdéric Bouché, I look around and breathe in the kitchen's professional yet relaxed atmosphere. Except for the sizzling emanating from the stoves, it all takes place in near silence. Everybody knows their tasks and the kitchen manoeuvres like a perfectly running engine. Arnaud has time to dedicate to me. Essi Avellan MW and Arnaud Lallement 18 "I fell in love with Krug champagnes a long time ago. They are very different and highly recognisable. They are extremely gastronomic champagnes, and I find that almost all dishes go well with Krug." Krugist by heart As Frêdéric Bouché pours the first champagne, the rich yet fine and floral Krug Clos du Mesnil 2000, I begin to enquire about Arnaud's well-known affection for Krug champagnes. "I fell in love with Krug champagnes a long time ago. They are very different and highly recognisable. They are extremely gastronomic champagnes, and I find that almost all dishes go well with Krug." I am able to try this in practise now, as Arnoud puts the finishing touches to my first course, `ocean': sea-urchin with a wonderfully salty, mineral taste. So far so good, and the Clos du Mesnil even adds an extra dimension to the dish. Even though there is always Krug Grande Cuvée NV available by the glass, and Lallement turns around significant volumes of other Krug cuvées ­ including his allocation of six bottles of each scarce Clos d'Ambonnay vintage, L'Assiette Champenoise is not all about Krug. "In this region it is customary to enjoy champagne throughout the meal. We do carry an extensive list of champagnes, but there are also other French wines available," says Lallement before listing Béréche, Agrapart, Bollinger, Ruinart and Deutz amongst his many favourites in Champagne. However, the chef also has a sweet tooth for Burgundy: "Ramonet, Leflaive, Denis Mortet and, of course, Romanée-Conti," he muses. For now, though, the list only has French wines: "We have a lot of wine in France," Lallement reasons.

Salt and pepper As I am being poured Krug Vintage, one of his staff members passes by with a big basket of chunky black truffles. While we sample the newly arrived Périgord treasures, the nose of the 2000 Krug intertwines with that of the fragrant truffles. I know that a perfect match is about to come. Lallement serves black truffles to me with gnocchi, his specialty, which is always on the list. Here, his gastronomic style epitomises the mild yet refined taste of the gnocchi, which supports the pure, powerful flavour of the bountiful truffles. Arnaud defines his cooking as contemporary. He vows to respect the pure flavour of the product, using very little processing: "Just a little salt and pepper..." Perhaps it is a little more than that, I mutter, as I know this master chef worked under the iconic French chefs Roger Vergé, Michel Guérard and Alain Chapel. Today, he mentions such names as Alain Ducasse, Thomas Keller, Alain Passard and Pierre Gagnaire as inspirational influences. But it is safe to assume that over time his father has been his major inspiration. After all, it was Jean-Pierre who founded L'Assiette Champenoise around the time of Arnaud's birth in 1975, winning a Michelin star in 1976 and keeping it until 1994; indeed, Arnaud practically grew up in a restaurant: "When I was a child, we lived here at the restaurant! From the age of five I was convinced that I was going to be a chef." After his culinary studies at the Strasbourg Hotel & Catering College and extensive training in top restaurants, he joined his father at L'Assiette in 1997. Taking over full responsibility in 2000, he quickly gained his first Michelin star the following year. Unfortunately, his father was not able to enjoy his son's success for very long, as he passed away in 2002. Arnaud, however, pressed on with his ambitions and a second star was awarded in 2005. Fi n e R e s tau r a n t 19 I continue with Clos du Mesnil through the second course: `crustace', and I proceed to enjoy what seems to be the gastronomic favourite of the Champenois: scallops. Having eaten these delicious, sensitive crustaceans numerous times before, Lallement's version still makes a `wow' escape from my lips. His scallops are spiced with champagne vinegar and cream of scallops. Cooking is everything with scallops, and L'Assiette Champenoise's performance leaves no room for improvement; delicately crispy on the outside, so perfectly tender inside.

A taste for the finest My crisp pork dish served with roast turnip is real comfort food. I am getting a glass of Krug Rosé NV to accompany it, which brings lovely voluptuousness and freshness to the match. I learn that even though there is always Krug available at the restaurant, he is not short of it at home either. "When we celebrate, it Star Wars I have now advanced to my fourth dish, deliciously fried bar served with chanterelles seasoned with coriander, and it is time to pop the 3-star question. "A third star is the objective", Lallement states directly, "but it is impossible to say what it will take to get it. There is no handbook... I believe it is work, work, work, and I trust further maturity and experience will help me." I ask him whether he is receiving a lot of suggestions and advice about what to do in order to gain the ultimate star. "I work for my customers and this house and do not listen to other people. Nobody knows what Michelin wants. It is a big secret." The mystery surrounding Michelin seems only to enhance its magic. No restaurant in Champagne has had three Michelin stars for many years. But Lallement is ready for one. 20 "When we celebrate, it is always with Krug." is always with Krug," the celebrated chef says. As a wine lover, he is building wine cellars for both of his sons; fortunately, both were born in the great Krug vintage years of 1995 and 1996. Away from the kitchen, Arnaud enjoys family life. But what is already evident from the outlook of the restaurant and the adjacent hotel, is that he loves all the good things in life: fine watches and fast cars, I was told by a source. "Yes, I do love Porches, both old and new," Lallement hesitantly admits. Indeed, his 911 Turbo often decorates the restaurant's car park. I feel it provides a great welcome to the entering diner, while also offering a sneak preview of the calibre of the food that awaits inside. While I finish the last drops of my intensely flavourful `PoireCaramel' dessert, it dawns on me just why I like L'Assiette Champenoise so much: it is the genuineness of it all. Arnaud Lallement is L'Assiette Champenoise. It is his childhood home, a family business, his lifestyle, their success story. Arnaud's mother Colette and wife Magalie, as well as sister Mélanie, all work for the family enterprise. "I am lucky to be working with these great women," Arnaud admits. I am seeing stars as I leave the kitchen of L'Assiette Champenoise following a great gastronomic joyride. Hopefully, the Michelin man will too. >

Du Savoir-faire surgit l 'élégance

CHAMPAGNE COUSU MAIN DEPUIS 1921 L'ABUS D'ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ. SACHEZ CONSOMMER ET APPRÉCIER AVEC MODÉRATION.

AT P I P E R- H E I D S I E C K , T H E M O S T N OT EWO RT H Y C O LO U R IS NOT THE RED, BUT THE GOLD. Piper-Heidsieck's Winemaker is elected Champagne Winemaker of the Year*. For the sixth time in eight years, Régis Camus has been crowned by the prestigious International Wine Challenge UK. Beyond the talent of the man, it is the uncompromising quality of the Piper-Heidsieck wines, awarded year after year, that dazzles. www.piper-heidsieck.com * Winemaker of the year in Champagne category, Septembre 2011.

A CHAMPAGNE EXTRAVAGANZA IN NEW YORK CITY S Richard Juhlin The next day, having le my family to sample yet more of New York's cultural o erings, I set o on my own pilgrimage, which took in Ground Zero and the Statue of Liberty before a long walk through Chinatown, Little Italy and Greenwich. My nal destination was one of my favourite bars, the atmospheric Soprano's place Cipriani, which serves world class pasta. One further New York highlight was my meeting with Swedish superchef Mattias Larsson and dining with him at Thomas Keller's Per Se, while seated at a window table overlooking the magical Columbus Circle. I then whiled away the a ernoon playing football in Central Park, surrounded by blossoming cherry trees ­ and all the while being lmed doing it, of course! In the evening, we were invited to the home of the world's leading champagne collector, who treated us to a veritable abundance of classic champagnes and, our other mutual passion, mature red burgundies. A er this fabulous dinner, we felt like continuing our festive night in New York, so we all squeezed into a couple of limousines and weaved our way through the streets to a shady spot in the port area near Brooklyn Bridge. In no time at all, we found ourselves in attendance at a concert by the famous, and rather interestingly named, DJ Dead Mouse, who hid under his hat for several hours on stage without looking at his enthusiastic audience. Our host had managed to procure us a VIP booth, where we got through three magnums which stood de antly at the bottom of the wine list. I must admit I have never had so much di culty drinking such great champagnes. Indeed, something must be wrong when you nd it hard to drink more than two mouthfuls of a magnum of 1971 Salon ­ right? Exhausted but many experiences richer, we headed home having bitten o a little more of the Big Apple than we could chew. > A SELECTION OF THE CHAMPAGNES: NV Krug Grande Cuvée 92p (94p) 1961 Ruinart Dom Ruinart 96p (96p) 1966 Pommery (n/a) 1964 Pommery 93p (93p) 1962 Pommery 94p (94p) 1961 Pommery 90p (90p) 1959 Pommery 94p (94p) 1953 Philipponnat Blanc de Blancs 85p (85p) 1952 Heidsieck 93p (93p) 1949 Charles Heidsieck 94p (94p) 1959 Gosset 95p (95p) 1949 Alfred Gratien 96p (96p) 1929 Lanson 92p (92p) 1929 Pommery 96p (96p) 1928 Jacquesson 95p (95p) 1926 Pommery 97p (97p) 1955 Pommery 84p (84p) 1955 Heidsieck 94p (94p) 1955 Charles Heidsieck 85p (85p) 1955 Louis Roederer 95p (95p) 1955 Bollinger 90p (90p) 1955 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 99p (99p) 1955 Moët & Chandon 91p (91p) 1981 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 98p (98p) 1980 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 97p (97p) 1979 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 99p (99p) 1962 Louis Roederer 95p (95p) 1953 Louis Roederer 93p (93p) 1952 Louis Roederer 93p (93p) 1959 Louis Roederer 96p (96p) 1947 Louis Roederer 97p (97p) 1975 Deutz Aÿ Magnum 98p (99p) 1966 Krug Blanc de Blancs 99p (99p) 1962 Charles Heidsieck 90p (90p) 1962 Piper Pink Rosé 92p (92p) 1962 Dom Pérignon Rosé 96p (96p) 1962 Krug 97p (97p) 1962 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p (97p) 1911 Moët & Chandon 95p (95p) 1921 Pol Roger 96p (96p) 1932 Salon 97p (97p) 1942 Pommery 93p (93p) 1952 Dom Pérignon Magnum 90p (90p) 1959 Louis Roederer Magnum 96p (96p) 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé Magnum 94p (96p) 1985 Dom Pérignon Rosé Magnum 97p (97p) 1981 Krug Magnum 97p (97p) 1988 Krug Magnum 97p (98p) 1982 Krug Magnum 97p (98p) 1971 Salon Magnum 94p (94p) 1975 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé Magnum 94p (94p) 1973 Louis Roederer Cristal Magnum 88p (88p) 1975 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Magnum 97p (97p) Fi n e J u h l i n 25 pending a lot of time travelling for work means that I o en spend prolonged periods of time away from my family. However, when the opportunity arose to take my partner Ragni and daughter Stella along with me, not one of us hesitated. The destination? New York! It was to be shopping for the girls and a weekend-long champagne extravaganza for me. A er arriving in the bustling metropolis, I was put to work as soon as my plane landed, leaving me no time to recover from jetlag. I was worried about staying awake and not yawning during the rst tasting event, which consisted of a seated tasting of twenty grower champagnes. Wherever you are in the world, these events o en leave much room for improvement in terms of organisation, but the New York team sincerely impressed me and we spent an enjoyable evening babbling about champagne. The next night we enjoyed a splendid gathering at a Michelin starred restaurant, where the theme was the legendary 1996 vintage. As if that wasn't enough, we then headed to the three-star Le Bernardin, which you may well have seen in several American lms. Against this wonderful backdrop, we went through twenty-or-so mature champagnes with the U.S. ne wine collectors' elite. There, our aim was to show anyone still in doubt that champagne is the world's premier wine for long cellaring.

extraordinary chefs are now among Blackberry Farm's most anticipated guests. some of the world's most Situated in the Tennessee foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, Blackberry Farm's Relais & Châteaux property -- recently named #1 Resort in the Continental U.S. and Canada by Travel + Leisure -- is celebrating its 35th anniversary by bringing back some of their favorite guest chefs, vintners and artists for this year's schedule of unforgettable events. From its 180,000-bottle Grand Award-winning wine selection and renowned cuisine to countless opportunities for wellness and adventure across 9,200 protected acres, Blackberry Farm is home to enriching, one-of-a-kind experiences all year long. To reserve your place at one of our special events, contact our Reservations Team, or visit us online for a complete calendar of upcoming events. Walland, Tennessee 00.1.865.984.8166 blackberryfarm.com

joins us for Excellence along with acclaimed wine importer Eric Soloman Daniel Humm m ay 20-23, 2012 joins us for Empire Italy also featuring Piero Incisa Della Rochetta of Sassacaia Hugh Acheson Ju ne 24-27, 2012 joins us for Continental Exchange along with Dr. Ernst Loosen of Dr. Loosen Estate Alan Wong joins us for Carte Blanch along with Mannie Berk of The Rare Wine Co. S eptember 16-19 David Kinch a uguSt 19-22, 2012

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Text: Essi Avellan MW Photography: Pekka Nuikki e endless selection and wide price range of champagnes secure that there is something for everyone. But on the other hand, how is a consumer to pick out from the packed shelves of the wine merchant a champagne that is truly high in quality, worth its price and at its best on that particular day? is is where FINE Champagne's shortlist of 100 best champagnes comes to play. Any champagne making it to the Top 100 in our rigorous tasting can be warmly recommended. Still, there can only be one winner. In 2010 it was Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV that shone the brightest. In 2011 PiperHeidsieck Rare 2002 stole our hearts and palates. Who will it be this year? Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 29

30 C ontrary to common belief, the scope in style and quality is at least as wide for champagne as any other fine wine of the world. Perhaps even wider due to champagnes blended nature and the large role played by the cellar master in crafting the final product. Even if many markets are saturated by just few famous names, the reality of champagne is incredibly diverse. is divine drink is made under thousands of different labels, by large houses, cooperatives and small growers alike. It comes in variable types from prestige cuvées to vintages and non-vintages. Its styles range from blanc de blancs to blanc de noirs, rosés, mono-terroir champagnes and alternating sweetness levels. In the following we will guide you to make the best picks for each of the types and styles. e world's best champagne ­ today Our aim with this annual ranking is to taste the entire offering on the international markets in order to select the champagnes that are showing best this very moment. e most important criteria is the quality of the wine and its accessibility today. In fact, we believe these to be the only characteristics that really matter to the consumer. We assess the wines on the 100-point scale. We do not give points for future expectations, which is the reason most top champagne's points are likely to rise as it approaches maturity. We may mention the wines cellaring potential in the verbal evaluation, and will also give our with estimate of when the wine should be at its best. As many age-worthy prestige cuvées are released young, they may not be able to show their true character at this early stage. ese are the wines the consumer should forget in the cellar for a number of years. For this reason for example Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 and Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2000 did not make it to the TOP 100 list. Contrary to many other wine rankings, this list of the 100 best champagnes is not based on a single tasting; instead, we wish to take into account all of the tastings that we had been privy to during the year. At best we have tasted individual champagnes more than ten times, and even at worst, at least twice. is gives us a comprehensive view of the quality and enjoyability of the wines and allows us to eliminate the odd "bad" bottle from our ratings. Before our final decision, we conducted three more large-scale tastings this winter. For the shortlist we had chosen the two hundred and fifty champagnes that we had rated highest during the year, and carried out a blind tasting. Not included in the evaluation were extensively long aged champagnes such as the Dom Pérignon Oenothèque or Bollinger RD, which are difficult to come by and which are much more expensive than the ones included here. Results Average score of the wines chosen for the list was 89 points, which is a great achievement for young wines that have only recently become available. We did not quite reach last year's top points 95, but instead we had a larger pool of 93-point wines. As one would expect, prestige cuvées occupied the majority of the top spots, and make up around 40 per cent of the whole list. Quite satisfactorily the non-vintage wines take up a further 45 per cent, with the first of them ­ Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve ­ achieving an excellent ninth position. e vintage category is fairly poorly represented in this list, partly due to the fact that there were fewer entries. ere are four outstanding vintage champagnes in the top 15: Taittinger 2004 (2), Charles Heidsieck 2000 (12), Henriot 2003 (13) and Piper-Heidsieck 2004 (14).

Top vintage champagnes All in all, the oldest champagne vintages stood out as attractive wines with their generous, developed character. 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millénaires is still showing wonderfully but is starting to loose its freshest form. It came down from last years 3rd place to the 10th position. Contrary to last year's list no 1996 made it on the list. Salon was the only entry from the rarely declared 1997 vintage. It finished almost identically to last year's results in the 23rd position, still going strong. However, Salon has since our tasting started shipping the 1999 vintage. ree gorgeous rosés saved the reputation of the variable 1998 vintage: Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé (17), Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé (15) and Ruinart's recently released Dom Ruinart Rosé (16). e soft and mellow 1999s are starting to show their peak forms. At least Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill revealed a much more open character and ended up number 24 instead of last year's 54. Another fine 1999 was iénot's stylish Cuvée Alain iénot (43). e bold, ripe and fruity 2000 vintage is still well represented. Our number one champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne shows just how wonderfully voluptuous yet refined this vintage can be. Dom Pérignon Rosé was not left far behind, having changed its last year's 2nd position to 4th. Charles Heidsieck 2000 is still very much in form and one of the greatest champagne bargains available. e rich style of the 2000 vintage suits Krug style perfectly, hence the Vintage took 21th position already quickly after its release. e offering in the superb 2002 vintage was sumptuous. e top 10 alone hosted four of them: Louis Roederer's stunningly elegant Cristal Rosé (3), one of the recent times' finest Dom Pérignons (5), Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé (6) as well as our last year's winner champagne PiperHeidsieck Rare (8). e hot 2003 season produced rather unusual wines, and many houses skipped the vintage altogether. ere is only one 2003 on our list, but it is one that is able to return one's belief in the possibilities of the vintage. Henriot did a wonderful job with this toasty and rich yet refreshing champagne that fully deserved its 13th position. Champagnes from the elegant and lively vintage 2004 are still being released. Taittinger Vintage (2) showcased full prestige cuvée quality, which makes us look very much forward to the future release of Comtes de Champagne 2004. Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2004 was also showing sublimely (14). 2005 did not receive many top spots despite a significant number of entries. e top wine of this warm vintage was Janisson Baradon's exiting single-vineyard champagne Toulette (42). e lively 2006 offered several fine wines, such as Pannier Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage (49) and Louis Roederer Rosé Vintage (55). e Bouzy-based small grower Pierre Paillard was almost the sole submitter of 2007 but its cuvées did very well; Blanc de Blancs Bouzy Grand Cru ended up on 39th position and Blanc de Noirs Bouzy Grand Cru on 81st position. Pleasant surprises in non-vintages e top performers in the non-vintage category did not come as a surpise. Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (9), Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve (18) and Piper-Heidsieck Brut (28) yet again add merit to the house's rewarded cellar master Regis Camus. Other fine examples included Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut (25), Louis Roederer Brut Premier (27), Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus (29) and Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Brut (40). e annual list of the 100 best champagnes available on the markets is based on tastings and ratings by FINE Champagne Magazine's three wine professionals, Editor Essi Avellan MW, Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki and Editorial Adviser Juha Lihtonen. e final point score of each wine consists of the average of the blind tastings. > Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 31

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Comtes de Champagne claims the Crown Text: Essi Avellan MW Consistently great but from time to time simply divine, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne has consecutively been an apt contender for the title of the best champagne on the market. All recent vintages have been successful; the intense 1996 being one of the finest of the vintage, the 1998 possessing classic Comtes elegance and the 1999 demonstrating a more softer side of Comtes. But in 2000 Taittinger and its reputed cellar master Loïc Dupont hit jackpot. is warm, overt vintage produced many heavy and overly ripe champagnes, but in Comtes the richness given by the year is bound to a velvet-smooth texture and a fine, fresh acidity that creates an exiting tension one wishes to marvel time and again. Comtes de Champagne possesses a flawless track record all the way down to its inaugural vintage, 1952. It is reputed to be the first prestige cuvée blanc de blancs, if one does not count the then small mono-cru blanc de blancs Salon. Today it rivals for the title of the best blanc de blancs quite level-headedly with Dom Ruinart, Salon and Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires. Why blanc de blancs then? It was already Pierre Taittinger who believed in Chardonnay. Following his instinct, he created the light and elegant Chardonnay-dominant floral and perfumed style as Taittinger's trademark. Consistent with this vision, the house's prestige cuvée was to be a 100 percent Chardonnay whose emphasis is on Avize and Mesnil fruit. e wine is produced in a reductionist style in stainless steel vats but since the 1989 vintage a fraction of the wine has been aged in fairly new oak barrels for four months. is gives a boost to the wine's creamy texture and enhances its hallmark toasty qualities. After bottling the wines are transported to the ancient GalloRoman chalk cellars of Saint-Niçaise to ferment and mature. e St-Niçaise abbey was destroyed in the French Revolution and much later the Taittingers bought the ruins and built their cellars into these monumental historical surroundings. Today, the underground cellar network at St-Niçaise is used entirely for maturing Comtes de Champagne. e rest of production takes place at the modern winery facilities at Rue de la Justice. Great champagnes are traditionally named after people. Taittinger makes no exception having chosen to honour the region by naming their prestige cuvée Comtes de Champagne ­ Counts of Champagne. e origins of the Counts of Champagne lie in the 7th century feudal society. Originally, before the 11th century, the Counts of Troyes had had the ruling but during the time of ibault II the power shifted to the Champagne County whose Count had his residence in Reims. ibault II was a mighty man ranking only second to the king. However, it was especially during the times of ibault IV Champagne flourished. He arranged famous 49-day festivities that brought prosperity to the region. e story of the Champagne Counts came to an end finally when the crown and the Champagne County were unites as Louis X rose to power. Taittinger, still owning the historical Comtes de Champagne residence today, named their prestige cuvée to honour this history. Complex story but complex is the wine, too. e champagne's smooth, layered character develops over 10 years' ageing period in the cellars. is, the wine's attractive 10 g/l dosage and sufficient post-disgorgement rest make Comtes de Champagne such an attractive champagne already upon release. We toast to congratulate Taittinger. is house that has recently returned back to family hands, has quickly built a strong spirit with Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger at the helm supported by both of his children Clovis and Vitalie. Perhaps it was the family spirit that made Comtes de Champagne 2000 and Vintage 2004, which took a fabulous second ranking, go the extra mile. Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 33

Shared Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 Cristal Rosé is a true rarity, with 6000-8000 bottles produced during its finest years. Divinely elegant and alluringly restrained, Cristal Rosé 2002 comes with a ripe fruitiness and mouth-watering acidity. e rosé is more approachable at a young age, whereas the white version craves time - hence the rosé reaching top position in your ranking and the Cristal 2004 being left far behind. Cellarmaster Jean-Babtiste Lecaillon stresses that Cristal is born in the vineyards, which is where Louis Roederer recently invested a lot of development effort. ey are the first major Champagne House to have moved into biodynamic viticulture, and this biodynamic fruit is largely used for Cristal. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon does not declare himself as biodynamicist but rather `a curious person'. He said: ` is is my personal fascination. Back in 2000, the team believed this would not be possible. Now we can say it is possible, but very difficult." e 70 per cent share of extremely ripe Pinot Noir grapes gives Cristal Rosé its delicate hue. en, some 30 per cent Chardonnay from Mesnil and Avize is added to this already very pale red wine, before a minor amount of red wine is used to fine-tune the colour. e colour of the rosé does not necessarily give any clue as to the taste: Cristal Rosé is nearly as pale as its white version. Yet again, the wine is chewy, muscular, extremely vinous and wellbuilt. To Lécaillon, it is all about playing with the tannin presence, for the structure, while not letting it overpower the finesse. 34

Ranking Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 Dom Pérignon is the world's best-known wine. However, in the shadow of its great fame lies its much more seldom encountered sibling, Dom Pérignon Rosé. is year, we witnessed an even battle between the bright Pinot fruit driven Dom Pérignon Rosé 2002 and the intense and energetic Dom Pérignon 2002, with the former beating its sister on our palates by just a fraction. First produced using the 1959 vintage, Dom Pérignon Rosé is made in much more minuscule volumes than the regular version; but even the mighty LVMH cannot come up with a Rosé for every DP vintage. According to Cellarmaster Richard Geoffroy, the Pinot Noir is the limiting component that keeps the production figures so low. He seeks to minimise the tannins, and welcomes no element of bitterness in the wine. Even though the blend is the same, with equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in it as the white Dom Pérignon, Geoffroy emphasises that it is not a pink version of the wine. To him, they are `like sister and brother, very different accomplishments'. e ripe Pinot Noir red wine component seems to bring the wine more forward in youth, making it reveal its glories sooner than Dom Pérignon. Still, it is a wine of great longevity. In fact, as proof of that, Dom Pérignon recently launched their first late-disgorged Oenothèque version of Dom Pérignon Rosé from the praised 1990 vintage, which was in fact Richard Geoffroy's first at the helm of Dom Pérignon. We can't wait to taste this beauty from 2000 as an Oenothéque after ten more years in the cellar. Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 35

Champagnes 2012 100 Best for Ranking 1 2 3 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 36 1 - 25 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 Taittinger Vintage 2004 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon 2002 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2002 Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 1998 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 Armand de Brignac Rosé NV Charles Heidsieck Millésime 2000 Henriot Vintage 2003 Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2004 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé 1998 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998 Krug Grande Cuvée NV Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV Chartogne-Taillet Fiacre NV Krug Rosé NV Krug Vintage 2000 Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV Salon Blanc de Blancs 1997 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1999 Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV Points 94, 94,00 93, 93,33 93, 93,00 93, 93,00 92, 92,76 92, 92,74 92, 92,50 92, 92,36 92, 92,33 92, 92,30 92 92 92 92 92 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 90 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Ranking 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 26 - 50 Henriot Rosé 2002 Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2004 Pannier Egérie de Pannier Rosé de Saignée NV Ruinart Dom Ruinart 2002 Paul Goerg Cuvée Lady 2000 Robert Delph La Grande Année NV Bollinger La Grande Année 2002 Louis Roederer Vintage 2004 Veuve J. Lanaud Cuvée Marie-Joséphine NV Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Brut NV Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Grande Cuvée de Beauté Blanc des Noirs Janisson Baradon Toulette Brut 2005 Thiénot Cuvée Alain Thiénot 1999 J. de Telmont Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime 2005 Billecart-Salmon Vintage 2004 A. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon NV Bourdaire-Gallois Brut NV Pol Roger Vintage 2000 Pannier Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage 2006 Lanson Extra Age NV Points 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 89 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 37

Champagnes 2012 100 Best for Ranking 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 38 51 - 75 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1998 Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV Ré Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut 2004 Louis Roederer Rosé Vintage 2006 Colin Cuvée Alliance Brut NV Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2002 Henriot Rosé NV Boizel Brut Millésime 2002 Janisson Baradon Extra Brut NV Rémy Massin et Fils Brut Prestige NV Drappier Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Pol Roger Pure Extra Cuvée de Reserve NV Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec NV Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P NV Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Grande Cuvée Le Victorieux Brut NV G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV Ruinart Brut Rosé NV R. Pouillon Cuvée de Réserve NV Penet-Chardonnet Millésime Extra Brut 2006 Ruinart Millésime 2006 Château de Bligny Grande Réserve NV G.H. Mumm Mumm de Cramant NV Points 89 89 89 89 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75

Ranking 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 76 - 100 Rémy Massin et Fils Réserve Brut NV Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé Brut NV Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2000 Veuve Fourny Rosé Les Rougemonts Extra Brut NV Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial NV Pierre Paillard Blanc de Noirs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Pierre Paillard Brut Rosé Grand Cru NV Rosé Boizel Ultime Extra Brut NV Billecart-Salmon Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV René Geoffroy Empreinte 2006 Lamiable Grand Cru Brut NV G.H. Mumm Brut Rosé NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV Drappier Charles de Gaulle 2006 Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs 1999 Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV Ruinart Millésime 2005 Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Rosé NV Janisson Baradon Grande Réserve Brut NV Paul Clouet Grand Cru Grande Réserve Brut NV Gosset Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Eric Rodez Cuvée des Grands Vintages NV Bonnaire Variance Brut NV Billecart-Salmon Extra Brut NV Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV Points 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 39

TOP 10 100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 1 Colour: Medium-deep golden Nose: Soft, rich, layered, coffee, ripe fruit, gun powder Palate: Elegant, fresh, linear, fragrant, fine mousse, appetising, superb balance Ending: Long, intense yet elegant In a nutshell: Charming When to drink: 2012­2020 Final verdict: A great Comtes, ready to be enjoyed but can be kept (94,00p) 94p Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 2 93p (93,33p) Colour: Taittinger Vintage 2004 Medium-deep lemon Nose: Very toasty, coffee and confectionary, delicious Palate: Full-bodied, soft, fine intensity, bright fragrant fruit, velvety Ending: Long and firm In a nutshell: Polished perfection When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict Well-made, fine fruit verdict: and drinking perfectly 40 3 Shared Ranking (93,00p) 3 Shared Ranking (93,33p) 93p Colour: Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 93p Pale onion-skin colour Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 Colour: Deep salmon Nose: Delicately fragrant, red fruit purity, mineral Palate: Wonderful acid line, fresh and vivacious Ending: Long and pure In a nutshell: So elegant When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: One of the finest Nose: Fragrant and fruity, chalk, gunpowder Palate: Round and firm Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: Pure delight When to drink: 2012­2026 Final verdict: A grand champagne

TOP 10 100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 5 93p (92,76p) Colour: Medium-deep lemon yellow Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon 2002 6 93p (92,74p) Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2002 Colour: Medium-deep cherry colour with onion-skin hues Nose: Delicate, charming toast, vanilla, coffee, lemon Palate: Soft, creamy, light weight but fine intensity Ending: Long, lingering and elegant In a nutshell: Seamless When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: A DP masterpiece Nose: Powerful, fresh, fruity, spicy, earthy Palate: Wide and vinous, fresh and energetic Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: A beauty When to drink: 2012­2028 Final verdict: Firm and fine 7 (92,50p) 93p Colour: Deep onion-skin Nose: Red fruit, toast, spice Palate: Lacey, round, lively Ending: Long, vinous Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 1998 8 (92,36p) 92p Colour: Deep golden Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 Nose: Pronounced, toasty, rich, coffee, toffee Palate: Full-bodied, voluptuous, rich, structured, balanced Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: It has it all When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: Power meets finesse In a nutshell: One of a kind When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Enticing 9 (92,33p) 92p Colour: Deep lemon-gold Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV 10 (92,30p) 92p Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 Colour: Deep lemon Nose: Powerful, rich, ripe fruit, vanilla, cinnamon, highly toasty Palate: Wide, rich, velvet-smooth Ending: Concentrated, almost endless In a nutshell: Seductrice When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Delicious and peaking Nose: Powerful, sweet, roasted coffee beans, malt, heavy toast Palate: Concentrated, soft, wide Ending: Long, fruity and toasty In a nutshell: Full of toast When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Power and charm, no need to wait longer Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 41

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 11 92p Colour: Pale pink Armand de Brignac Rosé NV 12 92p Colour: Deep golden Charles Heidsieck Millésime 2000 13 92p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, beautifully toasty, confectionary, perfumy Palate: Juicy, silky, beautiful small bubbles Ending: Long and fresh In a nutshell: Refined When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: As beautiful as it gets, a great result for this challenging year Henriot Vintage 2003 Nose: Fresh and elegant, forest berries, spice Palate: Light weight with nice intensity Ending: Medium-long and fruity In a nutshell: Enjoyable When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Fine fruit Nose: Soft, toasty, coffee, dried apricots, rich, vanilla Palate: Wide, round, juicy, fruit bomb Ending: Long, intense In a nutshell: Impressive When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: A stunning vintage champagne, as rich as champagne gets 14 42 92p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Open, coffee, toast, cream Palate: Voluptuous, balanced, layered, fresh and vivacious Ending: Long, pure In a nutshell: Full of life When to drink: 2012­2020 Final verdict: A beauty Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2004 15 92p Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé 1998 Colour: Deep orange-hued colour 16 91p Nose: Vinous, pinot-dominant nose of forest floor, red berries and spice Palate: Wide and velvety Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: A character When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Vinous Colour: Medium-deep cherry colour with onion-skin hues Nose: Overt, perfumy, seductive, spicy Palate: Fresh, vinous, smooth Ending: Long, delicious and fresh In a nutshell: Satin-like When to drink: 2012­2030 Final verdict: Supergood Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998 17 91p Colour: Deep lemon-gold Nose: Pronounced, gently oaky, creamy, charred Palate: Rich, velvety, muscular, superb mousse Ending: Long, concentrated In a nutshell: Self-assured When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: Impressive now but give it time to mellow and open up Krug Grande Cuvée NV 18 91p Colour: Pale peach-hued Nose: Refined, gently toasty, ripe apricot, vanilla, forest floor, spicy Palate: Evolved, vibrant, fresh, light Ending: Medium-long and complex In a nutshell: Classy When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Delicious toast and fruit Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV 19 91p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Forward, ripe fruit, earthy complexity, lemon Palate: Intense, structure, energetic Ending: Long and juicy In a nutshell: Personality When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: A great value wine full of character Chartogne-Taillet Fiacre NV

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 20 91p Colour: Medium-deep cherry Nose: Toasty, vinous, spicy Palate: Full-bodied, soft, fresh Ending: Fine and long In a nutshell: Masculine and feminine at the same time When to drink: 2012­2023 Final verdict: Pure seduction Krug Rosé NV 21 91p Colour: Deep golden Krug Vintage 2000 22 91p Nose: Soft, lifted, gently spicy and oaky, vanilla, patisserie Palate: Wide, round, weighty, concentrated Ending: Never-ending In a nutshell: Macho When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: This warm year's style fits Krug perfectly Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Nose: Delicate, gently fragrant nose of cream and confectionary Palate: Light weight, fresh and etheral Ending: Fresh, juicy and soft In a nutshell: Fizz appeal When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Fruity and appetising with a lovely lacey texture Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV 23 91p Colour: Salon Blanc de Blancs 1997 24 91p Medium-deep lemon Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1999 Colour: Medium-deep golden 25 90p Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Deep, fruity, elegant, light spiciness Palate: Firm, focused and tightly packed Ending: Long and fresh In a nutshell: Classy When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: A benchmark Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV Nose: Powerful, rich, ripe fruit, lemon, vanilla, cinnamon Palate: Mouth-filling, soft, creamy, linear Ending: Persistent and fruity In a nutshell: Voluptuous When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Rich and voluptuoushas developed positively over the last year Nose: Rich, evolving, dried fruits, honey, coffee, cardamom Palate: Full-bodied, velvety, concentrated Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: Man on a mission When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Perfected 26 90p Colour: Medium-deep, evolved, peach-hued Nose: Very toasty, coffee, charred, sweet, vanilla Palate: Concentrated, full-bodied, rich, massive Ending: Long and powerful In a nutshell: Massive attack When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Give me more Henriot Rosé 2002 27 90p Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Nose: Fresh, floral, perfumy, white fruit, soap-scented Palate: Fresh, light and lively, fruit-driven Ending: Elegant and long In a nutshell: Great purity of fruit When to drink: 2012­2019 Final verdict: Unrivalled elegance for a non-vintage Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV 28 90p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fine, stylish, fragrant and nicely toasty, cream and tropical fruits Palate: Focused, firm, linear acidity, intense fruit Ending: Long and refreshing In a nutshell: Classy When to drink: 2012­2019 Final verdict: The quality of Piper keeps on rising Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 43

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 29 90p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, toasty, fruity, coffee Palate: Chalky, acidic, fresh, lean Ending: Dry and crisp In a nutshell: Fine fruit and polished character When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Great value for money Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV 30 90p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Toasty, sweet, charming, confectionary, promising Palate: Pronounced, sweet fruit, wide Ending: Long and refreshing In a nutshell: Aristocracy When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Peaking, with plenty of ageing characters Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Franç Billecart 1998 31 90p Colour: Deep cherry Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2004 Nose: Elegant, deep, cherry, fragrant, evolving Palate: Fresh, firm and intense Ending: Long and juicy In a nutshell: Deep fruitiness When to drink: 2012­2020 Final verdict: An intriguing combination of lightness and intensity 32 44 90p Pannier Egérie de Pannier Rosé de Saignée NV 33 90p Colour: Medium-deep peachhued Colour: Pale lemon Ruinart Dom Ruinart 2002 34 90p Colour: Deep lemon Paul Goerg Cuvée Lady 2000 Nose: Evolved, sweet, toasty, strawberry, toffee Palate: Silky- smooth, creamy mousse, voluptuous Ending: Long, delicious and fresh In a nutshell: Generous When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Impressive Nose: Soft, powerful, honey, earth, sweet, chalk Palate: Mouth-coating, vegetal whiffs, straw, focused Ending: Long, linear yet smooth In a nutshell: Edgy When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: Craves time Nose: Pronounced, lactic, floral, gentle toast Palate: Sweet fruity, soft, fluffy mousse Ending: Soft and sweet In a nutshell: Aims to please When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Pleasant but not great 35 90p Colour: Deep lemon Robert Delph Cuvée Prestige NV 36 90p Colour: Deep lemon-gold Bollinger La Grande Année 2002 37 90p Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Fresh, lively, elegant, pear, perfume Palate: Gentle, soft, crisp Ending: Medium-long, fruity In a nutshell: Bright fruit and freshness When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Impeccable balance Louis Roederer Vintage 2004 Nose: Toasty, sweet, charming, confectionary, promising Palate: Full, soft, gentle, soft effervescence Ending: Long and sweet In a nutshell: All the pieces are in place When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Charming Nose: Powerful, gently spicy, earthy, apple, vanilla Palate: Vibrant, wide, full-bodied, intense Ending: Concentrated yet crisp In a nutshell: Muscle power When to drink: 2012­2030 Final verdict: Worth cellaring

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 38 90p Veuve J. Lanaud Cuvée Marie-Joséphine NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon yellow 39 89p Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Colour: Pale lemon-green Palate: Crisp, pure, linear Ending: Long and fresh 40 89p Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, soft, some volatility Palate: Soft, velvety, sweet Ending: Long and caressing In a nutshell: Peaceful When to drink: 2012­2014 Final verdict: Unique and peaking Nose: Clean, soft, toasty, delicious Nose: Pronounced, toasty, some unclean whiffs Palate: Soft, mouth-filling, creamy Ending: Fruity and long In a nutshell: Classic charmer When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: All the pieces are in place In a nutshell: Beauty queen When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Charm and elegance 41 89p Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Grande Cuvée de Beauté Blanc des Noirs Colour: Medium-deep yellow 42 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fruity, peach, herbaceous, creamy Palate: Linear, pronounced acidity, focused Ending: Long and refreshing In a nutshell: Pure bite When to drink: 2012­2019 Final verdict: Zesty style with great intensity and length Janisson Baradon Toulette Brut 2005 43 89p iénot Cuvée Alain iénot 1999 Colour: Deep golden Nose: Soft, clean, appealing, white fruit, vanilla Palate: Juicy, sweet fruitiness, soft mousse, intense Ending: Long and vinous In a nutshell: Very fine fruit When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: A deserved crowdpleaser Nose: Elegant, gently toasty, layered, honey, lemon Palate: Creamy palate. gentle mousse, smooth Ending: Long and soft In a nutshell: Comfort wine When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Easy-going but charming 44 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Nose: Soft, gently toasty, gunpowder, white fl owers Palate: Full and powerful, voluptuous Ending: Long and concentrated In a nutshell: Sizeable When to drink: 2012­2019 Final verdict: Mineral and fresh J. de Telmont Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime 2005 45 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Nose: Soft, floral, peach, elegant Palate: Fine-tuned, medium-bodied, creamy, lively Ending: Medium-long and energetic In a nutshell: Classic When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Will not let you down Billecart-Salmon Vintage 2004 46 89p Colour: Pale lemon A. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon NV Nose: Gentle, mild, peach, elegant Palate: Juicy, bright, nice acid line, lean Ending: Long and refreshing In a nutshell: Lemony and fresh When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Straightforward but a pure fruity delight Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 45

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 47 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Pronounced, red fruit, toast, spice Palate: Rich, overt, creamy mousse Ending: Persistent In a nutshell: Voluptuous When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Rich and generous Bourdaire-Gallois Brut NV 48 89p Colour: Deep lemon Pol Roger Vintage 2000 49 89p Pannier Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage 2006 Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, round, soft, gently toasty, vanilla, sweet fruit Palate: Long, intense, smooth, caressing Ending: Long and harmonious In a nutshell: Generosity When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Will not be left unnoticed Nose: Restrained, earthy, spicy Palate: Mouth-filling and soft, lemony acidity Ending: Medium-long and drying In a nutshell: Autumnal When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Closed nature 50 46 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, fragrant, elegant, green fruit, gunpowder Palate: Juicy, fresh, focused, some depth Ending: Medium-long and harmonious In a nutshell: Easy-drinking yet not boring When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Crisp but with depth Lanson Extra Age NV 51 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Creamy, red fruit, apple, yeast, spice, patisserie Palate: Smooth, fresh, mouthfilling Ending: Long and soft In a nutshell: Substantial When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Good but somehow still in search of its soul Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1998 52 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemongold Nose: Invitingly toasty, dried fruits, vanilla, toast Palate: Full yet vivacious Ending: Long and nicely balanced In a nutshell: Classy When to drink: 2012­2020 Final verdict: Youthful still and deserves more time in the bottle Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle NV 53 89p Colour: Pale lemon-green Nose: Fresh, mild, pure, lemony, gentle earthy complexity Palate: Biting, snappy acidity, linear, energetic Ending: Long and light In a nutshell: Zesty When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: A purist style for those who like acidity in champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV 54 89p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, white fruit, flowers, milkiness Palate: Light-bodied, fresh, energetic Ending: Long, lean and crisp In a nutshell: Uplifting When to drink: 2012­2025 Final verdict: Mouth-watering Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut 2004 55 88p Colour: Pale cherry with onion-skin hue Louis Roederer Rosé Vintage 2006 Nose: Refined, perfumy, ripe peach, sweet toastiness Palate: Beautiful mousse, youthful, vivacious, silky-smooth Ending: Long and juicy In a nutshell: Pure and fragrant When to drink: 2014­2020 Final verdict: Pure pleasure

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 56 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Delicate, pure, lemon, gentle toast Palate: Full, creamy, balanced Ending: Long and refined In a nutshell: Classic When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Delightful Colin Cuvée Alliance Brut NV 57 88p Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV Colour: Deep lemon 58 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Stylish toasty nose, gunpowder, flowers, ripe peach Palate: Lean, focused, elegant Ending: Long and refreshing In a nutshell: Finesse When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Spot on Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2002 Nose: Stylish, earthy complexity, vanilla, tropical, white fruit Palate: Firm, fresh, fruity, structured Ending: Long and sweet In a nutshell: Juicy fruit When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Tough to resist 59 88p Colour: Pale peach-hued pink Nose: Sweet, gently toasty, appetising, cooked peaches, smoky minerality Palate: Lean, juicy, fresh and smooth with a gentle mousse Ending: Medium-long and elegant In a nutshell: A beauty When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Seamless Henriot Rosé NV 60 88p Colour: Deep lemon-yellow Nose: Smooth, developing, cream toffee, ripe apple Palate: Full, soft, mild Ending: Medium-long with some sweet tones In a nutshell: Caressing When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Remarkably soft Boizel Brut Millésime 2002 61 88p Colour: Deep lemon-yellow Nose: Rich, overt, round, ripe apple, gentle toast, vanilla Palate: As the nose hinted: wide, oily, vinous Ending: Long and powerful In a nutshell: Muscleman When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: White burgundy with bubbles Janisson Baradon Extra Brut NV 62 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Delicate, soft, pear, yeast, cream Palate: Clean, fresh and gentle Ending: Pleasant, mediumlong, with some complexity In a nutshell: Charm When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Soft and seductive Rémy Massin et Fils Brut Prestige NV 63 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fresh, fragrant, stylishly floral Palate: Lively, lemony acidity Ending: Lean and long In a nutshell: Tight package When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Fruity and energetic Drappier Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 64 88p Pol Roger Pure Extra Cuvée de Reserve NV Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Nose: Fresh, earthy, fragrant, harmonious, layered Palate: Fruity, balanced, nice mousse, firm, dry Ending: Long and fresh In a nutshell: Fine fruit When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Poise Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 47

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 65 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Delicate, floral, milky Palate: Sweet, fruity, fresh Ending: Medium-long and clean In a nutshell: Balanced and easygoing When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: A lovely demi-sec Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec NV 66 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemonyellow Nose: Fresh, fragrant, stylishly floral Palate: Elegant, medium-bodied, creamy, lively Ending: Long, fruity and intense In a nutshell: Delightful When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Classic quality Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P NV 67 88p Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Grande Cuvée Le Victorieux Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Pronounced, earthy, red apple, spices, mineral Palate: Full-bodied, smooth and voluptuous Ending: Firm and persistent In a nutshell: Big personality When to drink: 2012­2020 Final verdict: Well worth getting acquainted with 68 48 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, slightly lactic nose, green apple and flowers Palate: Light weight, slightly coarse palate, fresh Ending: Short, slightly sweet, lacking fruit In a nutshell: All-round style When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Fails to impress G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV 69 88p Colour: Pale lemon-green Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV 70 88p Colour: Medium-deep cherry Nose: Straight-forward, red berries, youthful, pure Palate: Nice intensity, vibrant, lovely acidity Ending: Medium-long and clean In a nutshell: Red fruit potpurri When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Solid, enjoyable and enticing Ruinart Brut Rosé NV Nose: Soft, layered, peach, melon Palate: Linear and light weight, a bit sharp Ending: Medium-long and very dry In a nutshell: Uptight When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Fresh and fruity but a bit austere 71 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon colour with peach hues Nose: Ripe overt red fruit, spice, and cinnamon Palate: Fluffy, coarse mousse, mediumbodied, bright acidity Ending: Long and juicy In a nutshell: Fruit-forward When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Rustic but full of character R. Pouillon Cuvée de Réserve NV 72 88p Penet-Chardonnet Millésime Extra Brut 2006 Colour: Deep lemon-green 73 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Fragrant, ripe, vanilla, peach, gentle toast, promising Palate: Less charming, very dry, slightly coarse mousse, nice minerality Ending: Medium-long, fruity In a nutshell: Straight forward but with a big personality When to drink: 2012-2017 Final verdict: A recommendable novelty from Ruinart Ruinart Millésime 2006 Nose: Gentle and soft, pear, vanilla Palate: Light, unexpressive, some finesse Ending: Medium-long and firm In a nutshell: Mouth-watering When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Dry, crisp and reserved

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 74 88p Colour: Medium-deep golden Nose: Gently toasty, tropical, ripe lemon Palate: Good mouthful, soft mousse Ending: Medium-long and fruity In a nutshell: Solid performer When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Lovely texture Château de Bligny Grande Réserve NV 75 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Elegant, pear, white fruit, perfumy Palate: Lean, firm, intense Ending: Fresh and long In a nutshell: Pure elegance When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Liquid silk G.H. Mumm Mumm de Cramant NV 76 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Stylish toasty nose, gunpowdery, flowers, ripe peach Palate: Juicy fruit and a stylish mousse, fresh and clean Ending: Medium-long and fruity In a nutshell: Enjoyable Rémy Massin et Fils Réserve Brut NV 77 88p Colour: Medium-deep peachy Nose: Stylish, layered, gently toasty, cherry Palate: Fine creamy mousse, lifting acidic spine, silky Ending: Long and refreshing In a nutshell: Classy When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Smooth and fresh Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé Brut NV 78 88p Colour: Deep golden Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2000 79 88p Veuve Fourny Rosé Les Rougemonts Extra Brut NV Colour: Deep cherry-red with evolution Nose: Toasty, sweet, confectionary, vanilla Palate: Full, juicy, medium-intensity Ending: Long and charred In a nutshell: Sweet and appealing When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Pleasant but not great Nose: Soft, simple, berried, ripe, spicy Palate: Full, firm, structured, fleshy Ending: Vinous and persistent In a nutshell: Burgundy with bubbles When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: A personality 80 88p Colour: Medium-deep cherryred Nose: Soft, youthful, berried, sweet, strawberry, lemonade Palate: Fresh, light and lively, slightly coarse mousse, fruit-driven Ending: Medium-long and appetising In a nutshell: Simple but fun When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Performs but does not impress Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial NV 81 88p Pierre Paillard Blanc de Noirs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Colour: Pale lemon-green 82 88p Colour: Pale cherry pink Nose: Straight-forward, mild, clean red cherry Palate: Fruity, lightbodied, etheral Ending: Medium-long, pure In a nutshell: Understated elegance When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Refreshing Pierre Paillard Brut Rosé Nose: Soft, refined, pear, confectionary, mild Palate: Crisp, lemony, lean, focused, clean Ending: Medium-long, crisp In a nutshell: Light and elegant When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Does the trick Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 49 When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Easy to approach with some quality elements

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 83 88p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Lactic, energetic, stylish Palate: Medium-bodied, creamy, vegetal characters Ending: Medium-long and fruity In a nutshell: Solid performer When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Enjoyable Boizel Ultime Extra Brut NV 84 88p Billecart-Salmon Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Colour: Pale lemon 85 88p Colour: Medium-deep straw Nose: Earthy, bruised apple, vanilla Palate: Medium-bodied, dry Ending: Forward & fresh In a nutshell: Medium-long, straightforward fruit When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Joyous René Geoff roy Empreinte 2006 Nose: Delicate, fragrant, fruity Palate: Foamy mousse, hollow, lacks spine Ending: Medium-long, not completely clean In a nutshell: Flower bouquet When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Lovely nose but the palate lets it down 86 50 87p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Soft, mild, pleasant, stylish, gentle toast Palate: Fresh, vivacious, light Ending: Medium-long and energetic In a nutshell: Full of life When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: A fun wine Lamiable Grand Cru Brut NV 87 87p Colour: Pale onion-skin Nose: Elegant, restrained, cherry, apricot Palate: Fine mousse, crisp, focused Ending: Long and refined In a nutshell: Caressing When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Easy-going refinement G.H. Mumm Brut Rosé NV 88 87p Colour: Pale peachy Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV Nose: Delicate, elegant, bright red fruit Palate: Some complexity, refined, focused, creamy mousse Ending: Refreshing In a nutshell: Refined When to drink: 2012­2017 Final verdict: Youthful but delivers 89 87p Colour: Medium-deep lemonyellow Nose: Soft, fruity, gently toasty, ripe fruit Palate: Fresh, lemony, nice intensity, soft mousse Ending: Medium-long, dry and fruity In a nutshell: Harmony When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Fruity with some depth and a finely constructed balance Drappier Charles de Gaulle 2006 90 87p Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Stylishly toasty, tropical fruit, vanilla, confectionary Palate: Medium-bodied, creamy, vegetal characters Ending: Long and juicy In a nutshell: Opulence When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Almost there Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs 1999 91 87p Colour: Pale lemony Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV Nose: Soft, elegant, white fruit Palate: Soft, creamy, a touch of sweetness, light-bodied Ending: Medium-long and pure In a nutshell: Feather-light When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Midnight sun

100 BEST Champagnes for 2012 92 87p Colour: Deep lemon Ruinart Millésime 2005 93 89p Colour: Very pale, peach-hued Nose: Delicate, mineral, smoky, ripe peach Palate: Crisp, vivacious, elegant a touch of bitterness Ending: Lean and lingering In a nutshell: Fine-tuned When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: Stylish Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Rosé NV 94 87p Nose: Vegetal, toffee, powerful, unrefined Palate: Full, overt, long Ending: Medium-long and lemony In a nutshell: Puzzling When to drink: 2012­2014 Final verdict: Lacks finesse and focus Colour: Medium-deep lemonyellow Nose: Soft, overt, developing, spicy, gingerbread, vanilla, aromatic wood Palate: Full-bodied, oily, gentle fizz Ending: Long and powerful In a nutshell: Tight and fresh but simplistic When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Oak effect but a fine example Janisson Baradon Grande Réserve Brut NV 95 87p Paul Clouet Grand Cru Grande Réserve Brut Colour: Deep lemon 96 87p Gosset Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Mild, soft, lemon, dust 97 87p Eric Rodez Cuvée des Grands Vintages NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Overt, toasty, sweet tropical fruit Palate: Full-bodied and rich, voluptuous Ending: Long and fruity In a nutshell: Richness When to drink: 2012­2018 Final verdict: Voluptuous and velvety Nose: Mild, stylish, clean, charred Palate: More powerful on the palate, oak impact but not much oxidation Ending: Smooth and concentrated In a nutshell: Meursault with bubbles When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Well-made and a good representative of this style Palate: High acidity, lean, tight Ending: Medium-long In a nutshell: Lacks charm When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: As sharp as a knife 98 87p Colour: Deep lemon Bonnaire Variance Brut NV 99 87p Nose: Overt, wide, rich, developing, earthy, oaky Palate: Round, vinous, medium-bodied, smooth effervescence Ending: Long but heavy In a nutshell: Countryside cousin When to drink: 2012­2015 Final verdict: A good example of this style Colour: Medium-deep with a golden tinge Nose: Overt, round, red apple fruit, spice, smoky minerality Palate: Mouth-filling but slightly watery, foamy mousse Ending: Straight forward with a mineral twist In a nutshell: Juicy When to drink: 2012­2016 Final verdict: Straight forward but pleasant Billecart-Salmon Extra Brut NV 100 87p Colour: Deep cherry Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV Nose: Smoky, berried, simple, primary berry fruit Palate: Unrefined foamy mousse, simple fruit, a touch heavy Ending: Long and heavy In a nutshell: Unchampagne-like When to drink: 2012­2014 Final verdict: Divides opinion Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 51

Non-vintage champagne Non-vintage (NV, sans année) champagne is the backbone of every champagne house's production, typically accounting for 80­90 per cent of the total volume. Hence, it is also their most important product, taking up the most time and effort. Maintaining the consistent style and quality of the house's non-vintage champagne year after year is a challenge, yet it is paramount, because the very idea of non-vintage champagne is that no vintage-related variation can be detected in the taste - thus allowing the consumer to select his or her favourite cuvée with confidence. In the varying climatic conditions of the Champagne region, consistent quality is achieved by using reserve wines from previous years. Moreover, non-vintage champagne must be ready to drink as soon as it has been released ­ the majority of champagnes are consumed immediately after purchase. erefore, nonvintage champagnes usually consist of all three grape varieties ­ which are sourced extensively throughout the region. e cellarmasters of major champagne houses may blend more than four hundred base wines into their classic champagne in order to create a high volume of balanced, subtle champagne. e minimum maturing time of non-vintage champagne after bottling is 15 months, but most prestigious champagne houses mature their non-vintage for 2­3 years or longer in order to achieve the autolytic, toasty aromas typical of champagne. 52 Overall placement 1 NV Blanc Top 10 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Brut NV Bourdaire-Gallois Brut NV Lanson Extra Age NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV Colin Cuvée Alliance Brut NV Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV 92p 90p 90p 90p 89p 89p 89p 89p 88p 88p (9) (27) (28) (29) (40) (47) (50) (53) (56) (57) 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Vintage champagne Vintage champagne (millésime) is made in better-than-average years and cellared longer than non-vintage champagnes. In other words, it resembles the reserve wine category that is familiar in other styles of wine. Unlike non-vintage champagnes, their vintage counterparts are not meant to be consistent year after year. On the contrary, the cellarmaster composes vintage champagnes from the base wines that best reflect that particular year's characteristics. Despite the variation between different vintages, champagnes of this category are quite easy for consumers to buy: whenever a champagne house releases a vintage champagne, it theoretically indicates that the year is a good one and, consequently, so is the champagne. Furthermore, vintage champagnes contain longer-life base wines, and while they are quite enjoyable immediately upon release, they still have significant development potential. e wines feature certain intellectualism, because they provide us with information about the differences between certain years. Vintage champagne also entails a promise of greater tasting pleasure in the years to come, as it improves with ageing. Vintage champagnes are cellared over fur for a minimum of thirty-six months, and usually for much longer. In spite of this, they are less expensive than prestige cuvées. Overall placement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (2) (12) (13) (14) (37) (39) (44) (45) (48) (49) Vintage Top 10 Taittinger Vintage 2004 Charles Heidsieck Millésime 2000 Henriot Vintage 2003 Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2004 Louis Roederer Vintage 2004 Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs 2007 J. de Telmont Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime 2005 Billecart-Salmon Vintage 2004 Pol Roger Vintage 2000 Pannier Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage 2006 93p 92p 92p 92p 90p 89p 89p 89p 89p 89p Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 53

Prestige cuvées Every bottle of champagne is a luxury product, but not everyone wants to settle for the classic non-vintage. e uppermost category in the champagne pyramid consists of prestige cuvée (Cuvée Prestige) champagnes. is category originated in 1873, when Czar Alexander II of Russia found no ordinary champagne to be good enough for him and ordered his own special blend in a crystal bottle from his trusted supplier, Champagne Louis Roederer. Nevertheless, Moët & Chandon was the first champagne house to release a commercial prestige champagne, the Dom Pérignon vintage 1921, which was released in 1936. e Cristal champagne by Louis Roederer as we know it today was launched after World War II. e category started as a niche branch but rose to its current status in the 1950s and 1960s, and it is continuously increasing in significance. In many markets, especially in the Far East, the current demand for luxury champagne clearly exceeds supply. Prestige champagnes are made from grapes harvested from the highest-rating Grand Cru villages, and often exclusively from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay as they have the longest maturation potential. In addition to the premium ingredients, the rich variety of aromas, as well as the intensive structure and small bubbles associated with prestige champagnes, can be attributed to the prolonged ageing in bottles on the lees. Due to its superb acid structure, champagne ages beautifully, and prestige champagnes in particular are at their peak long after release. Nearly all prestige champagnes, especially Cristal, Dom Pérignon, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses and Salon, require long cellaring before they reveal their true, rich, subtle and aristocratically stylish essence. Tasting soon after release may leave questions on the taster's palate: the champagnes are often very tight and vacuously mineral, with only slight references to their future potential. It is a shame that such champagnes are released and consumed much too young ­ every year of patient cellaring is like putting money in the bank. 54 Overall placement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (1) (5) (8) (10) (17) (19) (21) (22) (23) (34) Prestige Cuvée Blanc Top10 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon 2002 Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 Krug Grande Cuvée NV Chartogne-Taillet Fiacre NV Krug Vintage 2000 Armand de Brignac Brut GoldNV GoldNV Salon Blanc de Blancs 1997 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1999 94p 93p 92p 91p 91p 91p 91p 91p 91p 91p

55 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s

Rosé champagne Even though rosé champagne has allegedly been manufactured in the Champagne region since at least 1775, it has never been as popular as it is today. No more than ten years ago, rosé champagne accounted for approximately five per cent of many houses' total production, while today 15 is a more common percentage. It seems that rosé champagne is here to stay. Pink champagne has a rather girly image, but this does not reflect its actual style. As a matter of fact, rosé champagne is the most masculine champagne because of its wine-like and often stronger character. Many rosé champagnes go well with meals, some are even able to stand up to red meat. Rosé champagne can be made in two alternative ways: by macerating dark grapes in the juice (rosé de saignée) or by blending in some red wine from the Champagne region to a white base wine (rosé d'assemblage). More than 95 per cent of rosé champagnes are products of the latter method, which allows better control over the outcome, but neither of these methods can be raised above the other. It is often impossible to determine the manufacturing method when tasting the wine, although sometimes a saignée wine can be recognised due to its more tannic nature. Laurent-Perrier is one of the few Grande Marque houses currently using the saignée method in rosé champagne production. Rosé champagne is often approximately 20 per cent more expensive than white champagne, due not only to its trendy popularity but also to higher manufacturing costs. e production of mature, high quality red wines for rosé champagne is difficult and expensive in Champagne. In addition, the arrangements required for the extra vinification and smaller batch sizes are costly. Whether rosé champagne is worth the extra price is a question of style rather than of quality. Along with the increased popularity, the quality of rosé champagnes has risen significantly over the past few years. Rosé champagnes are available in a wide variety, ranging from fresh berry flavoured to highly developed, champagne-like wines. e colours may vary from pale pink to nearly as dark as red wine. e rosé champagnes that belong to the luxury category are the best of the best in the world of champagne. Cristal Rosé, Dom Pérignon Rosé, Laurent-Perrier Alexandra, Dom Ruinart Rosé and Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé are all wonderful examples of the ageing potential, depth and multidimensionality of rosé champagne. ese champagnes are true rarities: for example, the edition of Cuvée Louise in vintage years is 200 000 bottles but that of the corresponding rosé is only 5000. Due to the low volumes, these wines may not even be mentioned on the producer's website. Furthermore, their prices are often twice or three times as high as those of white champagne. Overall Prestige Cuvée and Vintage TOP 10 Points placement 1 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (3) (3) (6) (7) (11) (15) (16) (20) (26) (31) Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2002 Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2002 Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 1998 Armand de Brignac Rosé NV Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé 1998 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998 Krug Rosé NV Henriot Rosé 2002 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2004 93p 93p 93p 93p 92p 92p 91p 91p 90p 90p 56 Overall placement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (18) (25) (59) (70) (77) (79) (80) (82) (87) (88) Non-vintage TOP 10 Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve NV Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV Henriot Rosé NV Ruinart Brut Rosé NV Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé Brut NV Veuve Fourny & Fils Rosé les Rougesmonts Extra Brut NV Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial NV Pierre Paillard Brut Rosé Grand Cru NV G.H. Mumm Brut Rosé NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV Points 91p 90p 88p 88p 88p 88p 88p 88p 87p 87p

57 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s

Blanc de Blancs e term blanc de blancs refers to wines made exclusively from white grapes, so in champagnes the grape is, in most cases, Chardonnay. is is a very common style: for example, the Côte des Blancs region is almost entirely dedicated to this grape and, consequently, local grower-producers automatically concentrate solely on blanc de blancs. Being an elegant and fruity grape, Chardonnay works very well by itself. At a young age, the wines may be markedly acidic and feature a linear, even bony structure. With ageing, Chardonnay soon develops a lovely, toasty and creamy aroma. e young wines can be aggressive, and therefore many producers, such as G. H. Mumm and Varnier-Fannière, keep the pressure of Chardonnay champagnes slightly lower. ese wines used to be called Crémant ­ for example, Mumm de Cramant was previously named Crémant de Cramant ­ but nowadays this term is reserved for sparkling wines made in other wine regions of France using the traditional method. 58 Overall placement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (1) (10) (23) (33) (34) (39) (42) (44) (58) (63) Blanc de Blancs Top 10 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 Salon Blanc de Blancs 1997 Ruinart Dom Ruinart 2002 Paul Goerg Cuvée Lady 2000 Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Janisson Baradon Toulette Brut 2005 J. de Telmont Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime 2005 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2002 Drappier Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 94p 92p 91p 90p 90p 89p 89p 88p 88p 88p

59 Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s

Mono-terroir champagne While blending creates the soul of a champagne, the downside to this method is a loss of the characteristics that each individual vineyard imparts, as they all blend into subtle harmony. As is the case with any premium wine, champagne also reflects the typical features of its growing location. Wine lovers are also interested in this aspect of champagne, and single-village (monocru) and single-vineyard (monoparcelle) wines have gained great popularity and appreciation, particularly among sommeliers and wine enthusiasts. Monocru wines introduce us to the characteristics and typical features of the Champagne region's villages; Salon, made exclusively from grapes grown in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, is probably the most widely known monocru wine. However, many small producers source their grapes from vineyards located in one village only, which means that their products are, de facto, monocru champagnes. Monoparcelle wines are very trendy nowadays, and display the produce of single vineyards. As the pioneer of this trend, Philipponnat began making monoparcelle wine from the grapes of its unique, 5.5-hectare vineyard, Clos des Goisses, in 1935. Other famous single-vineyard wines include Krug's Clos du Mesnil and Clos d'Ambonnay. Also representing Grande Marque producers in this segment are Billecart-Salmon, with its Clos Saint Hilaire, Duval Leroy, with the Leroy Clos des Bouveries, and Taittinger, with its Les Folies de la Marquetterie. Despite the increasing popularity, monoparcelle and monocru wines still remain, first and foremost, the products of grower-producers. Lacking the blending possibilities of large champagne houses, the showcasing of the character of individual vineyards is a natural choice for them. With pedant vineyard work they can manufacture magnificent wines at vineyards that may not achieve top ratings in the echelles des crus classification. Monoparcelle wines can never have the multidimensionality or harmony of blends, as they are singular top wines and are therefore presented as such. A key element in the philosophy of these wines is producing them in a manner that emphasises the best terroir-specific qualities, and this is why they typically feature low sweetening or no sweetening at all. 60 Overall placement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (23) (39) (42) (57) (75) (79) (81) (115) (118) (124) Mono-terroir Top 10 Salon Blanc de Blancs 1997 Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Janisson Baradon Toulette Brut 2005 Taittinger Les Folies de la Marguetterie NV G.H. Mumm Mumm de Cramant NV Veuve Fourny Rosé Les Rougemonts Extra Brut NV Pierre Paillard Blanc de Noirs 2007 Veuve Fourny R de Vertus NV J. Dumangin Premium Blanc de Blancs Single Vineyard "Dessus le Mont" Premier Cru Brut NV Guy Charlemagne Le Mesnillésime 2004 91p 89p 89p 88p 88p 88p 88p 87p 87p 87p

Grower champagnes As a counterforce to the champagne houses, a number of smaller grower-producers are making and selling their own products. From an international perspective, growerproducers' champagnes appear to be a secret closely guarded by the French, judging by the fact that only 12 per cent of these wines are exported. Compared to the champagne houses, the growerproducers' philosophy when it comes to winemaking is very different. eir wines are made from their own grapes, often grown in a small area, making the extensive blending practised by the champagne houses impossible. Grower champagnes typically represent the taste profile of the wines from a particular vineyard, village or sub-region in the area. It goes without saying that not all grower champagnes are excellent ­ nor are all champagnes from champagne houses ­ but in recent years with the new generation of growers taking over the reins, a positive trend has emerged with regards to top-quality grower champagnes. Names like Jacques Selosse have paved the way to fame for other grower-producers. Many of the up-and-coming grower-producers have adapted a very natural approach to champagne-making, working intensely in their vineyards in order to maximise the quality of their products. Organic or biodynamic production is not unheard of, even if most growers practice viticulture according to the sustainable principles of lutté raisonnée. Grower-producers concentrate largely on producing terroir wines, i.e. denoting the special characteristics that the habitat has bestowed upon the champagne, often by sticking to natural yeasts and minimising the sulphur dioxide content and the sweetening dosage. e grower community in the Champagne area is undergoing constant changes, and there are still a number of `undiscovered' quality growers in the region. Wine connoisseurs visiting with their eyes open will have a great opportunity to make interesting acquaintances. However, due to the restricted resources of the grower-producers and the lack of a worldwide distribution network, only a small share of the growers sent their champagnes to this tasting. Overall placement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 (19) (35) (38) (39) (42) (44) (46) (47) (56) (61) Grower champagnes Top 10 Chartogne-Taillet Fiacre NV Robert Delph Cuvée Prestige NV Veuve J. Lanaud Cuvée Marie-Joséphine NV Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Bouzy Grand Cru 2007 Janisson Baradon Toulette Brut 2005 J. de Telmont Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime 2005 A. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon NV Bourdaire-Gallois Brut NV Colin Cuvée Alliance Brut NV Janisson Baradon Extra Brut NV 91p 90p 90p 89p 89p 89p 89p 89p 88p 88p Fi n e 1 0 0 B e s t C h a m pa g n e s 61

E N J O Y C H A M P A G N E L A U R E N T- P E R R I E R R E S P O N S I B LY.

"All my life I have sought the simplicity of a single line." ANTOINE wATTEAU

64 King Crab with Fennel-Scallop Purée

Champagne's Favourite Foods: Shellfish With recipes straight from the top of the culinary world Te x t : R i st o K a r m av u o Phot os : Ar za k, Ro c k po o l B a r & G r i ll, Te t su ya' s, Da n i e l, R e e t ta Pa sa n en Che f s : N e i l P e r r y, Te t sua Wa k u da , Jua n M a r i a n d E le na A r za k , Da n i e l B o u lu d, P e k k a Te r ä v ä Aphrodite, or Venus to the Romans, was born out of sea-foam and floated to shore on a seashell with only her wavy tresses to cover her, at least according to Botticelli's famous painting. Veneridae, or Venus, clams, the thick-shelled and salty main ingredient of traditional clam chowder, were named after the goddess of love; they are not the subject of Botticelli, however, as a true connoisseur will correctly identify the shell in the painting as a cockle. In today's culinary world, love and the sea are symbolically joined in the union of champagne and seafood ­ the foam in the glass and the mysterious shell on the plate. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 65

C hampagne is often paired with mussels, clams, oysters and many other bivalves which are nearly impossible to categorise generically in gastronomy. ey are all in the phylum molluscs, which comprises of around 15 000 species ­ and even that is a most conservative estimate. It is this diversity which makes bivalve molluscs such a fascinating ingredient, as they are equally suitable for both everyday stews and haute cuisine. anks to their variety of flavours and uses, it is surprisingly easy to combine these shelled creatures with champagne; after all, there are champagnes suitable for a wide range of purposes. For this article, we requested mollusc recipes from top chefs around the world. Australian chef Neil Perry, of the Rockpool Bar & Grill, chose the traditional mussel as his ingredient; Juan Mari and Elena Arzak from Spain flavoured their shells with "ink"; while Daniel Boulud, a U.S.-based chef, favoured us with his caramelised bay scallops with clementines and cauliflower. Star Australian chef Tetsuya Wakuda pampers us with his scallops cooked like oysters, and in the recipe by Pekka Terävä of Olo Restaurant, scallops are conjured into a foam with fennel to accompany king crab. wine. A standard champagne is easy to open on a weekday, so it is a perfect accompaniment for classic and simple seafood dishes. e traditional blends in particular, where every champagne grape variety is represented, mix very well with cleanly but richly flavoured bivalve courses, and are perfect for time-honoured dishes such as moules marinière, clam chowder or grilled scallops. For example, try a basic champagne such as Billecart-Salmon or Jacquesson with Neil Perry's steamed mussels. Blanc de blancs and a breeze from the sea French seafood restaurants usually have a plateau de fruits de mer, a huge selection of shellfish, as their flagship dish. ey often include mussels and oysters served raw and flavoured with just a dash of lemon juice. e taste conveys the freshness of a sea breeze. e refined flavour should be complemented by an elegant and mineral wine, so the obvious choice is Chardonnay. e Grand Cru villages of the Côte de Blancs ­ Avize, Cramant, Mesnil and Oger ­ produce just the right kind of sharply acidic and minerally blanc de blancs champagnes. Indeed, these champagnes are practically born and raised for a union with seafood, as Chardonnay typically grows in a limestone-rich soil with fossil sediments that originate from seashells. is kind of mineral blanc de blancs champagne is a suitable companion for Terävä's fennel and scallop mousse, while a good body is needed to stand up to the meaty king crab. Standard champagne for classics Although it is hard to associate the adjective "common" with champagne, standard champagnes do represent the basic level of the 66 Scallops like oyster

Vintage champagnes can stand up to spices A somewhat aged but still able-bodied vintage champagne has a complex and subtle palate that perfectly supports a mild but skilfully made bivalve dish, while still leaving room for its aromas. e characteristic apricot, honey and brioche bouquet of a mature champagne also nicely counterbalances a light spiciness in the dish. Arzak's recipe, with its tomatoes, olives and garlic, definitely demands a multidimensional champagne. Excellent choices within vintage champagnes can be found, for example, in Pol Roger or Veuve Clicquot ­ the latter having particularly emphasised this category in recent years. Prestige champagnes and haute cuisine As we approach the cusp of haute cuisine, the standard of the accompanying drink must rise accordingly. is is the time to fetch out the cellar's prestige blends. Beware of choosing too young a bottle, however, as many prestige champagnes are fairly nondescript at a young age. If the choice is limited, I recommend a bottle from Taittinger or Laurent-Perrier, whose prestige champagnes are enjoyable even when young. A rich and creamy mousse makes a multidimensional prestige champagne a suitable match for Boulud's subtle but rich scallop course, with its challenging sweetness, as well as Tetsuya's fresh and flavourful scallop dish. A prestige champagne should never be served too cold, to ensure it opens up fully. It is, in fact, a gastronomer's virtue to prepare calmly and patiently for the delicacies on the plate. Haste is no good for either food or love ­ surely Venus would agree with that. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 67 PEKKA TERÄVÄ'S RECIPE FOR FINE King crab with fennel-scallop purée A recipe from Head Chef Pekka Terävä of Restaurant Olo, adapted for home kitchens. Pekka would pair this dish with a blanc de blancs champagne. Pulse the dill and oil in a blender and then sieve the mixture. Break the egg yolk into a bowl, add the seasoning and mustard, and whisk in the dill oil in a thin stream. Check flavour. Fennel-scallop purée 100 g fennel 50 g (approx. 2) scallops 1 shallot 1 garlic clove salt, pepper, sugar white wine Dice the peeled shallot, garlic and fennel, and braise in a pan. Add a dash of water and enough white wine to just about cover the vegetables and simmer until soft. Pan-fry the scallops and place in a blender with the other ingredients. Blend until smooth, strain through a fine sieve and check the seasoning. Jerusalem artichoke Peel some organic Jerusalem artichoke, slice thinly and place in iced water to crisp it up. Before serving, pour off the water and dress with lemon vinaigrette. Radish Follow the instructions for the Jerusalem artichoke. Toasted fresh hazelnuts Toast the nuts in a pan in oil or butter. Compose the dish on a low-edged plate as in the first picture, with the fennel-scallop purée at the bottom and drops of dill mayonnaise around. King crab Shell the crabs and remove the intestines and gills. Roll the crabmeat tightly in cling film. Refrigerate for 3­4 hours. Season with salt and pepper just before frying the meat quickly in a hot pan. Pekka Terävä Dill mayonnaise 1 egg yolk 1 bunch of dill 100 ml grapeseed oil salt, pepper mustard Olo ­ Helsinki, Finland Pekka Terävä is a well-respected Finnish chef, who runs a highly decorated Michelin star restaurant in downtown Helsinki by the name of Olo. He is considered an ambassador of modern Nordic cuisine.

We asked a number of top chefs from around the world to create an ideal shellfish dish for champagne. Steamed mussels with spicy broth NEIL PERRY'S RECIPE FOR FINE Steamed mussels with spicy broth I love the simplicity of this dish. e butter at the end enriches the sauce, but if you don't like it by all means just leave it out ­ it will still be delicious. To give the dish more substance, add some cooked pasta just before serving. I also love to serve a dollop of freshly-made aioli on this dish, as the more garlic the merrier when it comes to mussels. Serves 4 68 Neil Perry Ingredients: 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded extra virgin olive oil 1 red onion, sliced 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1 teaspoon chilli flakes 2 tablespoons salted baby capers, rinsed 1/2 bunch flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, about 75 g (21/2 oz), roughly chopped 150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine 3 tablespoons unsalted butter freshly ground pepper juice of 1 lemon Heat a little oil in a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the onion, garlic and chilli flakes and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add the mussels, capers, parsley and wine, then cover and cook until the mussels open, discarding any that don't. Add the butter and stir to combine with the pepper and lemon juice. Check the seasoning and serve with toasted bread. ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL SYDNEY 66 Hunter St Sydney NSW 2000 Australia www.rockpool.com/sydney/bar-and-grill/ e Rockpool ­ Sydney, Australia Neil Perry is one of Australia's leading and most influential chefs. Neil's restaurant Rockpool in Sydney is considered, together with Tetsuya's, to be one of the best on the continent. He also manages several restaurants in Sydney, Melbourne and Perth alongside his Rockpool Consulting business. Furthermore, Perry heads a team of five consultants which was set up to work closely with Qantas Airways. Elena & Juan-Mari Arzak Arzak ­ San Sebastian, Spain Elena and her father Juan-Mari are the third and fourth generations of their family to run Arzak, which is known as an institution of modern Basque cuisine. eir persistence and constant need to strive for perfection has kept the restaurant among the world's best for many years.

TETSUYA WAKUDA'S RECIPE FOR FINE Scallops like oyster Serves 4 8 raw scallops without roe 60 g foie gras 1 finger lime 30 g fresh Ao nori micro shiso or red garnet chive & leek batons sea salt Tetsuya Wakuda Ingredients: Tetsuya ­ Sydney, Australia is charming Japanese chef is a highly esteemed superstar in Australia and belongs, without doubt, to the elite of the world's best chefs. Tetsuya has featured in Restaurant Magazine's (London) World's 50 Best Restaurants since the list's inception in 2002, and since 2010 he has expanded his culinary venture to Singapore, where his restaurant Waku Ghin is located. The cellar master of Dom Pérignon, Richard Geoffroy, believes Tetsuya is the world's best chef when it comes to pairing food with champagne. 1 teaspoon finely grated ginger 4 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 1 teaspoon castor (superfine) sugar 1 teaspoon soy sauce 6 tablespoons grapeseed oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice To make the vinaigrette, whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl or in a jar. Vinaigrette Wrap a plate with cling film to put the scallops on. Remove the muscle from the scallops. Dab with paper towel to remove excess moisture. Slice scallops as thinly as possible depending on the sizeusually 4­5 slices per scallop. Slice the foie gras with hot knife into small rectangles no more than 2mm x 3­5 mm. Place 1g of ao nori on foie gras and wrap in scallop slices. Daniel Boulud Arrange on plate, garnish with micro shiso or red garnet, finger lime, chive & leek batons and sea salt, dress with vinaigrette. 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé TETSUYA'S RESTAURANT 529 Kent Street Sydney Australia www.tetsuyas.com Method: Daniel ­ New York, United States Daniel Boulud is one of the hottest names on the restaurant scene today. With his three Michelin Star establishment, "Daniel", rated as one of the best restaurants in New York and, indeed, the whole world. Boulud has created an impressive restaurant empire around the world, and has eateries in cities such as Miami, Vancouver, Singapore, Beijing and London. Best served with: Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 69

BY JUAN MARI AND ELENA ARZAK / ARZAK RESTAURANT'S RECIPE FOR FINE Clams in ink Ingredients needed to serve four: Black sauce (filling of the clams) 25g onion, fried in oil 20g green pepper, fried in oil 10g toasted bread 1 clove of garlic, fried 20g of sauce of ink of squid 100g water 15g black sesame salt and pepper Clams 12 bulky clams Confit potatoes 1 big potato 1dl slightly smoked olive oil salt and pepper 70 Preparation Mix and mince all the ingredients. Season with salt and pepper. Cook the clams gently in a microwave oven and open with a small pointy knife while keeping them together in one piece. Peel the potato and cut it to cubes of 1.5 x 3 cm. Cover the cubes with smoked oil and cook them. Season with salt and pepper. Chop the breadcrumbs very fine and fry them in olive oil. Drain the oil out well, add the rest of the ingredients, mix well and store. Fry the two types of rice so that they become crispy. Cook buckwheat, barley, millet and rye separately in salt water. Once they are cooked, let them dry a little. Heat the oil and fry the cereals separately untill they puff. Mix all together and season with salt and pepper. Cook the clams lightly so that they stay fleshy and keep the structure. ese clams are served with a dark and thick sauce. Place the clams up-right on the confit potatoes and garnish with crumbs and cereal powder, so that you'll have different crispy elements on the plate tasting of peppers and different cereals. ARZAK Avenida Alcalde José Elosegui 273, 20015 Donostia-San Sebastián, Spain www.arzak.es Black sauce Clams Confit potatoes Crispy crumbs Cereal powder Crispy crums 150g breadcrumbs 200g tomato juice 20g sweet red pepper 1.5dl olive oil salt, pepper and sugar Cereal powder 10g buckwheat 10g barley 10g millet 10g rye In addition olive oil Result and presentation: Clams in Ink

DANIEL BOULUD'S RECIPE FOR FINE Caramelised bay scallops with clementines and cauliflower Makes 4 servings Caramelized bay scallops 1 head cauliflower (about 1 pound), trimmed, cut into 1-inch florets, stems peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices salt and freshly ground pepper 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 dozen bay scallops (about 2 pounds) freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon 4 clementines, peeled and segmented julienned zest of 4 kumquats 3 tablespoons Sicilian capers, soaked in cold water for 20 minutes, rinsed and drained 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves 2. Put the cauliflower into a food processor and purée until smooth, taking care not to overwork the mixture. Season with salt and pepper and stir in 4 tablespoons butter. Transfer the purée to the top of a double boiler, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of the purée and set aside. 3. Warm the remaining 4 tablespoons butter and the olive oil in a large skillet over a high heat. Pat the scallops dry, season with salt and pepper, and slip them into the pan. Cook, turning the scallops as necessary, until they are golden on all sides and just cooked through, which should take around 4 to 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the lemon juice. Add the clementines, kumquats, zest, capers and parsley to the pan. Season with salt and pepper and cook, while stirring, until heated through, which should take about 1 minute. To serve: Divide the cauliflower purée among four warm soup plates. Arrange the bay scallops on top and spoon the clementineskumquat mixture over. Serve immediately. DANIEL 60 East 65th Street NYC 10021 danielnyc.com Fi n e C h a m pa g n e & Fo o d 71 Ingredients: 1. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until tender, 7 to 9 minutes. Drain well.

72 When I say no to Krug Andreas Larsson hen we get back to the everinteresting topic of wine prices, I always wonder how some restaurants think, if they think at all that is! Not to be demeaning or a bloody besserwisser in any way, but why do they charge huge amounts for wine? Why do they add mark-ups that could fly you across the globe to enjoy the same bottle! It's not the first and definitely not the last time I have seriously chocked on my amuse bouche while grasping through the wine list... Recently, in my home town of Stockholm, I went for a bite at the restaurant of a new and fashionable hotel. I had a look and the wines were pricey in general and to be frank, the few wines that seemed affordable were not very interesting. And to highlight the ridiculous mark-ups, a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée went W for 4950 SEK (roughly 500 euros). e cost of this bottle is about 1200 SEK including taxes, so why on earth did they charge an amount like that? I'll give you a few options: 1. Because of the great wine service, wellcomposed wine list and the army of skilled sommeliers working the floor? 2. Because they need to pay for the thousands of Riedel Sommelier series glasses and decanters they invested heavily in? 3. Because some accountant told them they have to follow a formula? Well, if one and two were the right options, I would be happy to bang out a few extra bucks, as I do not mind paying for service and quality. But as option three unfortunately seemed to be the right answer, I can only regret that many establishments just regard wine as a commodity that you buy in and price accord-

ing to a formula, just like coffee, water or soft drinks! No passion, no heart and no intelligence, for goodness sake! Yes, a restaurant needs to make money, but they should seriously consider what they are charging for, as to just open and serve a bottle doesn't cost a lot. If I go to the threestarred Plaza Athené and enjoy my Krug, I can understand that the price will be somewhere close to this level, but there you will doubtlessly get your brilliantly polished Riedel glasses and be served by a smiling and well trained, white gloved staff. Add to that the small spring rolls of sweetbread and truffle, quail eggs with caviar and the other utterly amusing things for the bouche and you have a rewarding experience. But to charge almost 400 euros to open a bottle if you get nothing, that is just unacceptable. Why does the wine need to suffer? Why not mark-up the food a little bit more? People wouldn't be shocked if the entrecôte commanded 35 instead of 28 euros, but if the establishment charged 85 euros, they would. You see, even if it was the greatest, juiciest, most tender côte in the world it would still be expensive! A nice establishment should and could charge slightly more, but strangely and thankfully there are still plenty of top restaurants that sell wine at very reasonable prices. I would rather take my 4950 SEK and buy a return ticket to Paris and have lunch at La Tour dArgent with some exquisite wines for the same price instead of being robbed at this hotel- sorry, design hotel. To calculate by numbers and percentage makes no sense. A lot of people say "We need to triple the purchase price ­ we need to add 275 per cent", and that is simply not true. Of course there is a cost for everything; you need to pay for your staff, glassware, storage, and other things. People do understand that. However, normally it is a lot easier to charge more for mineral water, coffee and beer, even if the mark-ups are tenfold, as these products will always be affordable in any case. I wouldn't complain if I had to pay fourteen euros a glass for a fourteen euro bottle if it is recommended alongside a great dish and served correctly. is will give the restaurant a fair turnover. But then I think we need to reconsider what a bottle of wine is actually worth and find out what you need to charge per bottle, regardless of the purchase price. I can assure you that one would still make money. Put simply, if wines are too expensive they won't be sold. Clients and wine lovers today are increasingly aware and if prices are too exaggerated, they will end up drinking that not-tooexciting bottle of wine, a beer, or even water instead of three bottles of something nice. I have always loved great wine and great restaurants, but unfortunately the two aren't always a possible combination. For my last birthday, I wanted to visit one of my favourite restaurants which has sadly become one of my former favourite restaurants when I realised that a decent ten-year-old bottle of vintage champagne would cost between 600 and 700 euros, and we are talking about sound producers but by no means extraordinary. en we add the food and there is easily at least a 1000 euro bill for two... Not that I am greedy but you need to feel that you get what you pay for and with that wonderful, delicate world class cuisine, I simply wouldn't be happy drinking a simple wine. Great food should be accompanied by great wine. I am still deeply concerned and completely unknowledgeable as to why restaurant critics rarely talk about wine service and prices. Maybe it is because most restaurant critics are excellent food critics but simply forget that the other 50 per cent of the restaurant experience deals with things other than the texture of the quail terrine or if langoustine with water cress sorbet is "so last year" or not. And that bottle of Krug, I never had it. Going back? I don't think so. > Fi n e L a r s s o n 73

74 Non-Vintage Champagne ­ Always Drinkable, but When Is It at Its Best? Text: Juha Lihtonen A dusty bottle of champagne displaying a patina of time and sitting on the shelf of a wine store is often viewed with suspicion. If it is a non-vintage champagne, few are willing to take the gamble of buying it. e reason for this is the prevalent notion that champagne should be consumed when it is young and fresh: we at FINE beg to differ. However, that is not to say we don't enjoy a fresh, young champagne but if we have the choice of a more mature wine, we never hesitate. Why? As experts on the FINE editorial team, over the years we have tasted thousands of mature vintage and non-vintage champagnes. Time and again we have unanimously observed that these champagnes offer a more complex and nuanced taste experience than the same champagnes when they are young. e thinking behind this is simple: champagnes are the most complex wines in the world, and they need time to open up. IMPROVING WITH TIME e complexity of the taste of champagne is the result of grapes being grown in extreme conditions and an intricate production process in which the blending of wines is key; indeed, it is this blending that gives champagne its complex structure. When it is re-fermented in the bottle, a lees deposit develops which imparts flavour and enriches the character of the champagne during bottle-ageing. In young champagnes, the complexity of taste and aroma is less pronounced and the former is dominated by a sharp acidity, as well as minerality and perky citrus tones typical of the drink. As the wine matures, its acid structure becomes more rounded and its sweetness may become more pronounced. Meanwhile, the fresh fruitiness of the young wine often turns sweeter as the wine matures, adding roundness to the taste. As the well-balanced acidity becoming supple and the crispy effervescence mellow, the champagne becomes more aromatic and, at this point, it is considered to have reached its maturity. Vintage champagnes are more intense and concentrated than their non-vintage counterparts, taking 20­30 years to mature, and remain drinkable for up to one hundred years if the cork retains at least some of its elasticity and the bottle is not moved too much. Non-vintage champagnes mature a little faster. In our experience, in a standard 75-centilitre bottle they attain maturity in 10­20 years and retain their enjoyability at best for up to 50 years.

MATURE CHAMPAGNE As it matures, the taste of champagne changes significantly compared to when it is fresh on the market. How long it takes for a champagne to attain its optimum maturity and how long it retains it before becoming flat depends on two things: the quality of the wine and the storage conditions. In impeccable conditions ­ darkness and a cool, even temperature ­ a champagne can retain its enjoyability for more than a hundred years. A prime example of this concerns the nonvintage champagnes dating back over 150 years which were salvaged from a wreck the summer before last in the seas surrounding the Åland Islands. Having laid on the bottom of the sea in that the first real signs of the condition of the champagnes were revealed. With only a few exceptions, the champagnes were all drinkable, although the effervescence was almost completely gone from several of the bottles. In the best bottles, the bubbles were still there, however, and the champagnes were robust, fresh and fruity. e charm of these champagnes was based primarily on their invitingly rich aroma and nuanced, elegant taste, which was both supple and balanced. WORTH THE PRICE? As the prevailing idea is that champagne, and standard non-vintage champagne in particular, does not keep, mature non-vintages can be found on the market for the same, or similar, price as the fresh versions of the same label. Considering our experience of mature champagnes and the points we awarded them in this tasting, it must be said that, barring a few exceptions, young non-vintage champagnes do not deserve the same ratings. In other words, these champagnes can be considered real finds. Although the differences between individual bottles are significant and there are always risks involving the condition of champagne, it is comforting to know that even a champagne that has lost its vitality can be LUCK OVER QUALITY More than half of the champagnes in the tasting received 90 points or more. e result corroborated our notion that mature non-vintage champagnes, thanks to their complexity, offer much more enjoyment than their younger counterparts. Because of the provenance of the bottles in our study, there were considerable differences between individual wines, which highlights the key role of storage in the current enjoyability of champagnes. An example of this was the most expensive champagne of the tasting, Krug Private Cuvée, which is also one of the best champagnes on the market with regards to quality and prestige. It had not withstood ageing, which was an indication of poor storage conditions rather than the quality of the wine. By contrast, Guy Michel Brut, one of the less expensive and prestigious labels in the tasting, was in mint condition and had clearly endured little or no alterations in its storage conditions. Taking into account the charming nature of the champagnes consumed in the tasting, despite their differing storage histories, one may assume that had the storage been uniform and the bottles been moved as little as possible over the decades, their enjoyability would be even higher ­ thus making them even more superior to young wines. dark and cool conditions, the wines had matured slowly and were preserved exceptionally well. On land, however, champagne ages much faster. The corks of champagnes that are stored in a wine cellar generally lose their elasticity within a few decades, after which the wine becomes susceptible to oxidation. A major factor in the preservation of champagne is provenance. Bottles which have travelled between cellars and from one region to another may suffer from the changes in air pressure and temperature. As the cork comes under greater strain, its sealing properties may weaken. As a result, the champagne may become oxidised and could therefore detract from optimum development and maturation. A TASTING OF MATURE NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES To confirm our ideas about the development potential of non-vintage champagnes, we decided to study their longevity by evaluating champagnes produced approximately in the 1970s. From a variety of sources, we obtained 25 champagnes whose origins could be traced back to that decade. Coming from different cellars, the bottles had different storage histories ­ a fact that partly explains the different ratings of champagnes sharing the same label. Outward inspection of the bottles showed a patina of time, but all were in good condition. e corks had not leaked and the level of wine in the bottles was high ­ at most about two centimetres from the cork. It was not until the bottles were opened revived by refreshing the wine. In other words, do not hesitate to grab that dusty bottle the next time it comes your way. And to be on the safe side, buy a fresh bottle of the same champagne along with it. If worse comes to worst, you can open both bottles and use the young wine to freshen up the mature champagne. On the other hand, if ensuring the enjoyability of the mature champagne means there is that much more champagne to be consumed, who exactly will complain? On the next page you will find our assessment of the champagnes involved in the tasting. > Saving champagne by refreshing e greatest risk with mature champagnes is that the effervescence ­ the very embodiment of their vitality ­ has disappeared. Such champagnes are often more like very good, mature white wines than champagnes. Although the loss of bubbles does not mean they are not hugely enjoyable, the bubbles are such a central part of the sensory enjoyment of champagne that lovers of mature champagnes often use the concept of refreshing to restore vitality. Refreshing simply means perking up a mature champagne that has lost its effervescence by adding a small amount of young, fresh champagne - preferably of the same label. `Refreshing' with about ten per cent of the new wine can revive a mature champagne, increase its enjoyability many times over and support its complex aroma and taste with a freshness that is both lively and crisp. Fi n e Ta s t i n g s 75 To confirm our ideas about the development potential of nonvintage champagnes, we decided to study their longevity by evaluating champagnes produced in the 1970s.

NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES FROM AROUND THE 1970s 90p Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particulière Colour: Deep, golden 87p Mercier Brut, Bottle 1 Colour: Deep, brownish 94p R de Ruinart Brut Colour: Medium-deep, lemonyellow Nose: Pronounced, sweet, honey, orange peel, apricot, nuts, coffee Palate: Dry, vivid, soft mousse, some phenolic bitterness Ending: Slightly drying In a nutshell: Delicate and pleasant Buy or not: Better than the recent release Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 15 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Gratinated oysters Fake factor: None Inside Nicolas Feuillatte information: established his brand in 1976 and Réserve Particulière was launched in 1978 Or try this: Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or 1995 ­ same scores Final verdict: This experience suggests that Nicolas Feuillatte is more than just an easy drinking and "drink when young" champagne Nose: Dusty, oxidated, nutty, apricots Palate: Dry, broad, soft acidity, mellow Ending: Drying In a nutshell: Sherry-like Buy or not: Why not? Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 10 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: French onion soup Fake factor: None Inside The world's first information: advertisement film, in 1900, belonged to Mercier Or try this: Another bottle of the same champagne Final verdict: Past its peak Nose: Complex, coffee, sweet toast, seductive Palate: Dry, vivid, energetic, elegant, lemony Ending: Moderately long, linear In a nutshell: Expressive Buy or not: Absolutely yes Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Lobster Thermidor Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 40% information: Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir and 25% reserve wines Or try this: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1988 Final verdict: The queen of the night 76 92p Colour: Deep and golden with an orange hue Nose: Charmingly toasty, coffee, sweet tropical fruits Palate: Dry, broad, gentle mousse, lovely lemony grip Ending: Long and linear In a nutshell: Lovely, well-integrated champagne Buy or not: Absolutely yes Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Crab cakes Fake factor: None Inside The legendary chef de information: cave Daniel Thibault has successfully dedicated his life to creating a richer style non-vintage champagne for Charles Heidsieck since the1970s. Or try this: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1983 Final verdict: Another great example of the consistency of the brand Charles Heidsieck Brut, Bottle 1 90p Dumangin Brut Colour: Deep and golden with an orange hue 91p Guy Michel Brut Colour: Pale, greenish Nose: Fresh, smoky, mineral Nose: Complex, toasty, coffee, creamy, mushrooms Palate: Dry, vivid, lemony, lacking a bit of fruit Ending: Long, fine and apricoty In a nutshell: Decadently energetic Buy or not: If you see it around Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 15 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Cold-smoked salmon Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 50% information: Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Dumangin is known for having more than half of its blend consist of past vintages' reserve wines. Or try this: A ride in a Morgan 4x4 Final verdict: The wine with fading promises Palate: Dry, crisp, fresh, stalky, mineral Ending: Long, tight, smoky In a nutshell: Amazingly fresh Buy or not: For sure Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: None When to drink: Now­2018 Food pairing: Aperitif Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 45% information: Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir. A small grower who produces only 2500 cases. Or try this: A dip into a fresh river Final verdict: As fresh as you can get from the 1970s

92p Billecart-Salmon Brut Colour: Deep, golden 93p Mercier Brut, Bottle 2 Colour: Deep, golden 91p Mercier Brut, Bottle 3 Colour: Deep, golden Nose: Perfumy, elegant, coffee, lemon, cream Palate: Dry, really fresh, creamy, lemony Ending: Vivid and lingering In a nutshell: Harmonious charmer Buy or not: No excuse not to buy Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Grilled tiger prawns with a touch of coconut oil Fake factor: None Inside A blend of Charinformation: donnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in equal proportions. Or try this: A Champagne massage Final verdict: A lovely, smooth, hallmark touch of Billecart-Salmon Nose: Delicious, ripe, tropical, coffee and cream Palate: Dry, fresh, evolved mushroom flavours, spicy, waxy Ending: Long and energetic In a nutshell: Easygoing and appealing Buy or not: Worth pushing your luck for Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Turffle risotto Fake factor: None Inside The Mercier chaminformation: pagne caves are the largest in Champagne, at 18 kilometres. One could imagine that there should still be some older champagnes left? Or try this: R de Ruinart from the 1970s Final verdict: The best Mercier we have tasted Nose: Evolved, still fresh, toasty, sweet fruit, vanilla and fudge Palate: Dry, fresh, lean, ripe tropical fruit Ending: Moderately short, lean In a nutshell: Fading taste Buy or not: Give it a go Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 20 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Pan-fried scallops with creamy fettucine Fake factor: None Inside The brand that information: became known for its boundary-breaking advertising campaigns over a century ago Or try this: A visit to Mercier Final verdict: Another strong candidate from Mercier! 93p Colour: Deep and golden with brown hue Nose: Expressive toasty nose, coffee, spices, dried apricots, honey Palate: Dry, lively, rich, round, vinous Ending: Lingering, lovely tosty notes In a nutshell: Rich and elegant Buy or not: Yes, absolutely Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: A dish in itself Fake factor: None Inside One of the greatest information: regular non-vintage champagnes we have tasted Or try this: Dom Pérignon 1976 Final verdict: The brand that has never let us down Charles Heidsieck Brut, Bottle 2 91p Louis Roederer Brut Premier Colour: Deep, bright, golden 92p Taittinger Brut Réserve Colour: Deep, golden brown Nose: Slightly dusty, herbacecous, vanilla Palate: Dry, lovely acidity, gentle mousse, perfumy, liquorice Ending: Tight, yet elegant In a nutshell: A rich character Buy or not: Go for it! Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Vitello Tonnato Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 40% information: Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier. 5% of the wines are matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage; 10% of the reserve wines are matured in casks. Or try this: Another bottle of the same wine Final verdict: Serious stuff Nose: Smooth, toasty, tropical fruits Palate: Dry, perky acidity,vivid mousse, broad, round, spicy, coffee flavours Ending: Long, chewy and rich In a nutshell: Expressive and balanced Buy or not: Yes, and keep your fingers crossed that your bottle is as good as this Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 20 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: No food, just good company Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 40% information: Chardonnay, 40% Pinot and 20% Pinot Meunier Or try this: Billecart-Salmon champagnes from the 1970s Final verdict: Can a non-vintage champagne get much better? Fi n e Ta s t i n g s 77

NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES FROM AROUND THE 1970s 84p Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Colour: Deep, bronwish Nose: Pungent, tarry, oxidative Palate: Dry, crisp, broad, slightly oxidative Ending: Long and powerful In a nutshell: Firm and tart Buy or not: There are plenty of better ones Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 10 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Smoked whitefish with a lemon-butter sauce Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 45% information: Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay Or try this: Another bottle or Mumm Brut Final verdict: The style is neither appealing nor seductive 88p Récamier Cuvée Special Colour: Bright, golden 83p Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P Colour: Deep, golden Nose: Smooth nose, some tar, honey, coffee and mushrooms Palate: Dry, pungent, austere, wine gums Ending: Long, moderately short, tobacco aromas In a nutshell: Rustic, yet peculiar Buy or not: Not a bad option Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 15 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Prawn risotto Fake factor: None Inside Récamier is one of information: those numerous small grower producers in Champagne Or try this: Mercier Brut Final verdict: A nice surprise from an unknown producer Nose: Toasty, mushroomy, apricoty Palate: Dry, austere, lack of fruit, gluey Ending: Moderately short, iron-like palate In a nutshell: Dull and one-dimensional Buy or not: Lacking concentration Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 10 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Moules marinières Fake factor: None Inside The blend is 40% information: Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier Or try this: A fresher L-P Final verdict: Have another bottle instead 78 85p Veuve Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P Nose: Toasty, nutty, lean 92p Colour: Deep and golden with an orange-hue G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Colour: Deep, golden 90p Veuve Clicquot Brut Colour: Deep and golden with a brown hue Nose: Perfumy, toasty, sweet tropical fruit, coffee Palate: Dry, rich, fleshy, lemony, firm Ending: Long, supple and lemony In a nutshell: Vivid and tasty Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Fried scallops Fake factor: None Inside This distinctive bottle information: decorates the Formula 1 podiums today Or try this: The same wine, sipped while following a Formula 1 race Final verdict: In great condition for a regular NV champagne Nose: Fruity, toasty, dried apricots Palate: Dry, crisp, concentrated, mineral, less fruity Ending: Long and intense In a nutshell: Focused package Buy or not: Buy it Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Toast Skagen Fake factor: None Inside The Clicquot chaminformation: pagnes have always had a firm grip, thanks to the Pinot Noir that dominates the blend. The brut is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier and 30% Chardonnay. Or try this: Bollinger RD 1988 Final verdict: Delivering more than expected Palate: Dry, less complex, citric acidity, nutty Ending: Moderately short, lean In a nutshell: Lean and simple Buy or not: Nothing to discover Tasted: 3 times Decanting time None Glass time: 15 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: Pata Negra Fake factor: None Inside Laurent-Perrier house information: used the Veuve Laurent-Perrier name on its labels in the past Or try this: Perrier-Jouët Brut Final verdict: A simple champagne

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JOIN THE CLUB! Richard Juhlin, by many regarded as the world's foremost champagne expert, has sampled and evaluated close to 7,000 champagnes. At www.champagneclub.com, members of The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club can login and, using a personal code, access Mr Juhlin's unique digital library where all evaluated champagnes are listed, described and rated from 0 to 100. More than the sheer size of this vast database, its uniqueness also lies in Mr Juhlin's vivid use of language and his ability to recognize and pinpoint not only the present but also the future state of the champagne at hand. The latter means that he awards the champagne an additional grade, where he estimates the potential greatness, with optimal aging. As soon as Mr Juhlin tries a new champagne, his tasting notes are downloaded into the database and made available to club members. The database engine allows for different ways of searching for a champagne, such as alphabetically, by producer, top 100, etc. On the website, the member password will also give access to Mr Juhlin's travel articles, descriptions of champagne producers, suggestions on where to dine, and much more. Membership in The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club gives you access to the on-line member pages ­ but it also includes you in a global group of people who truly love champagne and who can expect to benefit from more and more advantages as the club grows. In several cities the member card already grants its bearer advantages at "champagne friendly" restaurants, special presentations of hard-to-find champagnes, online tastings, etc. In three Scandinavian cities there are also exclusive Richard Juhlin Champagne Bars, as well as annual Richard Juhlin Champagne Dinners especially created for members boasting the upgraded black membership card. News and information is continually updated on the website and made available to members in 43 countries around the world. Join The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club at www.champagneclub.com for only 75 euro annually - and use the bonus code 'FINECHAMP' for a 12% VIP discount. INFO@CHAMPAGNECLUB.COM | WWW.CHAMPAGNECLUB.COM

HELSINKI Fi n e C i t y 81 Year 2012 is the year for Helsinki as the World Design Capital. Finland is known for its clean-cut Scandinavian desing, with strong brands and names already from the 1960's such as Marimekko, Kaj Franck and Tapio Wirkkala. The World Design Capital nomination aims to focus on the broader essence of design's impact on urban spaces, economies and citizens. Helsinki, The White City of the North, is a bubbly and dynamic city to explore, and now more relevant and current than ever before. Throughout the year 2012 Helsinki will be showcasing its accomplishments in innovative design, highlighting succesfull urban design, and hosting a number of design-related events. Fine would urge anyone interested in modern city culture to get to know this lively city, which is the home of FINE's Headquarters.

Edward KauKoranta represents a new generation of champagne enthusiasts. A founder of several champagne clubs and tasting circles, he organises events and dinners around champagne. Edward's background lies outside the wine and gastronomy fields, but he is an avid consumer of both. Furthermore, he is the founder of the thetastingbook.com, which is the world's first professional tasting note tool and online wine reviewing community. Sp tLIgHt HElSINKI Text: Edward Kaukoranta Photographs: supplied by the described locations Life is a long journey worth enjoying along the way, so go and have some champagne! A champagne lover such as I could spend a whole day enjoying his favourite beverage in Helsinki. The fizz-loving World Design Capital now has a growing collection of 82 bars and restaurants that pay special attention to champagne. Below are some of my favourites in Helsinki, which I am happy to recommend to all friends of the wine. REStauRaNt OLO This fine dining favourite on Kasarmikatu has an attractive feel to it. Guests are always met at the door and you are recognised as a frequent patron after just a few visits. On my last visit, I enjoyed the delicacies of Pekka Terävä's Michelinstarred kitchen over lunch with some friends. Our pure-flavoured Scandinavian meal, fine-tuned to the minutest detail, was accompanied by Taittinger's delightful single-vineyard champagne, Les Folies de la Marquetterie (134 per bottle). The selection of champagnes available by the glass varies daily at Olo, ranging from the house champagne (Benoît Lahaye's Brut Essential Grand Cru) to the Dom Pérignon 2002 magnum. There are eleven champagnes by the bottle, and sometimes Olo orders smaller specialist batches to include in its wine packages. My recommendation: choose a glass from the day's selection Hidden gem: Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2002, 319 per bottle Kasarmikatu 44 · www.olo-ravintola.fi Restaurant Olo

BaR HavEN / HOtEL HavEN The luxurious ambience of this five-star hotel always puts me in a good mood. Bar Haven probably has the most stunning wine cabinet in the city, and its contents are also very tempting, and consist almost entirely of champagne. The late Steve Jobs said that consumers don't know what they want, and he is partly right. Some consumers do know what they want, however, and this is a place to have their wishes heard. At Haven there is only one choice of drink for me: a glass of Taittinger's majestic prestige champagne, Comtes de Champagne. The champagne list includes 34 varieties, with at least seven available by the glass. You seldom have to order a whole bottle at Haven, however, as they will open almost any bottle, even a prestige variety, if you order at least four glasses. Haven is at its best off-hours, meaning weekday afternoons, when you can savour your wine in peace and tranquillity. My recommendation: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000, 25 for 10 cl Hidden gem: Veuve Clicquot Cave Privée Rosé 1978, 490 per bottle Unioninkatu 17 · www.hotelhaven.fi Bar Haven F8 SwEEt F8 Sweet, on the eighth floor of the Stockmann department store, is a bar that offers a pleasant break from shopping. Of course, you may come here just to enjoy the smart, modern setting and its good champagnes. The bar attracts a wide variety of customers, from elegant older ladies sipping red wine to young coffee-drinkers who have just come of age. Six champagnes on the list are available by the glass (8cl or 12cl), and there are eleven by the bottle. On my last visit, I was surprised to have the waiter serve my champagne in a white-wine glass. When I wondered about his glass of choice he amicably reminded me that on my previous visit I had specifically requested to have my champagne in a wine glass. I have to admit I was impressed by this attention to detail, and F8 immediately became one of my favourite champagne bars. A while ago I suggested to the staff that at least one prestige champagne should be available by the glass; two weeks later the list included both Dom Pérignon and Krug at 20 for 8cl or 30 for 12cl. It is so nice when people pay attention to feedback. My recommendation: Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes de Montegueux Blanc de Blancs NV, 15.90 per glass Hidden gems: Dom Pérignon 2002 and Krug Grande Cuvée NV, both reasonably priced at 190 per bottle Aleksanterinkatu 52 · www.f8.fi MuRu The affable restaurant Muru has received wellearned praise, and its little lounge-bar is an excellent place to have a small bite to eat while enjoying a couple of glasses of champagne. The last time I visited I had a beautiful black truffle risotto, accompanied by the splendid grower champagne Béréche Brut Réserve. At least one of Muru's four co-owners is always present, and especially when Samuil Angelov or Nicolas Thieulon are in the dining room, the service here is the best in town. Bonus points go to Muru for its high-quality champagne glasses (Riedel Ouverture Champagne) ­ all too often, champagne is served in tiny flutes that do nothing for the depth and complexity of the noble beverage. My recommendation: house champagne ­ Béréche Brut Réserve NV, 12 per glass Hidden gem: Deutz 1988, 165 per bottle Fredrikinkatu 41 · www.murudining.fi Muru Fi n e C i t y 83

tEMpO BaR Tempo, belonging to the Baker's restaurant complex in the heart of Helsinki, is an agreeable wine bar. Its clientele consists mostly of young people who prefer wine over beer or cider but don't want to be experts on the subject. Impressively, there are a good dozen wines available by the glass. The music here is louder than in the other listed venues, but it is still easy enough to chat without needing to shout. At Tempo I always order a bottle of Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne, because I cannot resist its perfumed aroma or the excellent value of the price tag, which at 145 is only a few euros more than it costs at the wine shop. The pricing here is more than reasonable. I hope the champagne selection will be expanded, because there is certainly a demand for it. My recommendation: Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV, 68 per bottle Hidden gem: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000, 145 per bottle Mannerheimintie 12 (entrance on Kalevankatu) · www.ravintolabakers.com/fi/tempo Tempo Bar aHjO BaR & CLuB Ahjo nightclub, linked to the design hotel Klaus K, is a spacious and youthful, yet sophisticated place to end an evening with a glass of bubbly. What is noteworthy is the unconventional and high-quality house champagne, Henriot. The 84 champagne list has 34 varieties by the bottle and six by the glass. The staff here entertained me by describing how champagne has begun to attract a wider clientele in Helsinki. A man weighing at least 120 kilogrammes and dressed in full biker gear, had walked in and ordered a bottle of champagne. When the waiter asked how many glasses the customer would like, his answer was: "Just a straw." My recommendation: Henriot Blanc Souverain NV, 16.20 per glass Hidden gem: Dom Pérignon 1990, 590 per bottle Bulevardi 2/4 · www.ahjoclub.fi SENaatIN HIILI Hiili is on the top floor of the new Kluuvi shopping centre. It has both an entrance from the store and its own door off Kluuvikatu. This ultramodern venue is an interesting blend of lounge and restaurant. A definite advantage is the fact that it serves food until 3 a.m., because until now if hunger has struck in Helsinki during the small hours, there has been little more than fast food available. The list has six champagnes, of which two can be bought by the glass. They are all reasonably priced, and Taittinger is particularly well represented. That house's nighttime-inspired, medium-sweet Nocturne is the perfect choice after midnight. In my view, Hiili still needs a personable prestige champagne costing well under two hundred euros per bottle that is available by the glass for under thirty euros. My recommendation: Taittinger Nocturne, 14 per glass I have not yet found a hidden gem on the list. Kluuvikatu 7 · www.senaatinhiili.fi Ahjo Bar & Club What I still miss in Helsinki's champagne selection is variety. I would like to see more, for example, of Charles Heidsieck's first-class standard Brut Réserve. Most champagne connoisseurs have tasted the major brands' varieties on many occasions, and, like me, would always like to try something new! There are nearly five thousand grower-producers, and every year each of them releases around four different champagnes. This means that there are almost twenty thousand varieties to choose from! Some of the charm of champagne comes from its history, or rather the stories behind the sparkling celebratory drink. Every champagne producer has his own story, and I would like to hear more of those in Helsinki.

86

BGlass The est for Text: Juha Lihtonen Photos: Kaj Ewart Champagnes are valuable wines. It is illogical that while buyers are ready to pay a premium for them over other wines, we often fail to pay enough attention to the way in which they are enjoyed at the time of opening. Even professionals can fall into this trap. In order to properly enjoy the character of champagne, one should consider the glass from which it is served. Fi n e Te s t s 87

The FINE editorial team decided to investigate the best glass shapes for champagne. An expert team consisting of the editors-in-chief of our various magazines compared different types of champagne in different glasses. 88 Some fifty years ago, Claus Josef Riedel caused a stir in the wine world by launching a set of glasses designed for different types of wines. With his Sommelier collection, Riedel demonstrated that greater enjoyment could be obtained from wine with the correct size and shape of glass. With his new thinking and detion' glass developed by Philippe Jamesse ­ Head sign, he blazed a trail for nuSommelier at the most famous hotel in the Chammerous glassmakers. The main pagne region, Les Crayères ­ for the local glassemphasis within glass design maker Verrerie de la Marne. has, however, been on red and white wine glasses. ChamAlso included in the test were a traditional tall and pagne glasses designed in colnarrow flute glass (Riedel Ouverture Champagne), a laboration with top sommeliers good medium-sized generic wine glass (Riedel Ouhave only started appearing in verture Red Wine), a white-wine glass that narrows the last few years. slightly towards the top (Spiegelau Authentis White Wine) and large Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses We took the available somintended for fine red wines (Schott Zwiesel Viña and melier-designed glasses and Zalto Burgundy). tested them in comparison with five other glass types. There The comparison was done using five different types are two glass models designed of champagne, with the intention of investigating by sommeliers: the hand-blown the effect of the glass on the taste of each chamchampagne glass `The First'pagne. The five chosen champagnes were a young designed by the World's Best non-vintage champagne, a rosé champagne, a Sommelier from 2004, Enrico luxury champagne, a luxury rosé champagne and Bernardo which is and made a matured champagne. Each of the chosen brands by reputed glass manufacturer represented the highest quality within its category. Schott Zwiesel; and the `Collec- CHAMPAGNE B Glass The est for Zalto Bourgogne Verrerie de la Marne Riedel Collection Philippe Jamessen Ouverture Red Wine Grand Champagne Riedel Schott Zwiesel Ouverture Champagne The First by Enrico Bernardon Spiegelau Authentis White Wine Schott Zwiesel Viña Bordeaux

NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE The characteristics of non-vintage champagnes vary greatly depending on the grape blends used. The most delicate are the blanc de blancs, made solely from Chardonnay grapes, whereas some blends can achieve quite a high degree of robustness. However, most of champagne is refreshingly fruity and pleasantly the wines within this category creamy, with no multi-layered or complex aromas. are clean, fruity, fresh and fairly uncomplicated in taste. When Several of the glasses in our selection supported choosing a glass, remember these characteristics. The fairly rich, creamy structhat these champagnes are ture was complemented slightly better by the glasses lighter in structure than vintage with a larger bowl than by the traditional straight and prestige champagnes, and flute, represented here by the Riedel Ouverture should therefore be served from Champagne Glass. The best glass for the Taittinger narrow glasses with a small Prelude was the Grand Champagne glass from the bowl in order for the flavour Philippe Jamesse Collection. It harmoniously emphato remain intensive; excessive sised the wine's fresh energy and generous creamicontact with oxygen should also ness, and the wine displayed more character in this be avoided, as it can cause the glass than in any of the others. The impact of the wine to break down. glass on the taste of the wine was most marked in the case of the non-vintage This was confirmed by our test, Taittinger, which suffered immensely which was conducted using TaitRECOMMENDED GLASS TYPE: in the large Bordeaux and Burgundy tinger's Prélude Grands Crus, glasses ­ to the point where some jury which is made from 50% CharWide tulip-shaped glass members considered it undrinkable. donnay and 50% Pinot Noir. (Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne) This high-quality non-vintage NON-VINTAGE ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE In non-vintage rosé champagnes, the producers' styles range from light to robust. These champagnes are usually characterised by an acidic forest fruit flavour and a well-balanced structure. As with other non-vintage champagnes, the glass should have a small bowl, although rosés do allow for greater airing so that the rim can be somewhat wider. A wider rim will also direct the drink more clearly to the edges of the tongue, which emphasises the fresh, fruity nature of rosés and alleviates their possible mild, mouth-drying tannins. For our test we chose the non-vintage Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve, which is a very rich and nuanced rosé champagne. Its character is achieved through the generous use of more mature vintages in the blend. Only one of the selected glasses seemed to properly suit this champagne. In narrow glasses, the wine was closed and its aromas and character did not shine through. Meanwhile, the large-bowled glasses excessively emphasised its sharp acidity. The rosé champagne was at RECOMMENDED GLASS TYPE: its best from the Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne glass, Wide tulip-shaped glass which accentuated its discreet fruiti(Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne) ness in a balanced way. Fi n e Te s t s 89

VINTAGE AND PRESTIGE CHAMPAGNES Generally speaking, vintage champagnes have a stronger character than their non-vintage counterparts, while the most characterful of all are the luxury champagnes. Both types are typified by an intense, multi-layered, robust nature that varies depending on the vintage. For glass enthusiasts this provides an interesting opportunity to compare the suitability of different glasses for different vintages of the same champagne. A comparison could be made, for example, between the 2000 and 2002 Dom Pérignons. The 2000 vintage is significantly creamier and more mellow than the crisply acidic and citrusy 2002. Of the two, the Dom Pérignon 2000 must be enjoyed from a wide-rimmed glass, whereas the 2002 works better from a largish tulip glass. champagne of the year 2011. The champagne is marked by its crisp acidity and concentrated mineral character with elegant toasty nuances. The high quality of this prestige champagne is confirmed by the fact that it was good regardless of the glass in which it was tasted. The narrower glasses did it the least justice, though, as they allowed for less of its multidimensionality and aroma to come through. However, the large size of the long and narrow Enrico Bernardo The First glass helped to release the wine's aromas. It also directed the citrusy champagne to the front and middle of the tongue, bringing out exceptionally aromatic and delicious fruity flavours. The Zalto Burgundy glass, with its large bowl, also did justice to the Rare champagne, allowing its subtly aromatic nature to be emphasized. Although luxury champagnes are delicious from almost any wine glass, they usually improve significantly with airing. Therefore, we recommend favouring a large glass. RECOMMENDED GLASS TYPE: Large flute-shaped glass (Schott Zwiesel The First glass by Enrico Bernardo) 90 For our test, we selected the Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, named by FINE as the best The B est Glass for CHAMPAGNE VINTAGE ROSÉ AND PRESTIGE ROSÉ CHAMPAGNES Vintage and luxury rosés are the most vinous of champagnes. They have robustness, structure and an aromatic character that arises from the skin contact that takes place during production. At a young age, these champagnes are often closed and may require decanting to open, but the shape of the glass also plays a major part. This was demonstrated by our test, where berry aromas opened up most favourthe Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000, ably in the large Zalto Burgundy glass. chosen by FINE as this year's In terms of flavour the differences were best luxury rosé champagne, smaller, although the Zalto Burgunproved to be very closed when dy glass did offer the most generous served in the narrow glasses. mouthfeel. However, its delicious straw- RECOMMENDED GLASS TYPE: Bordeaux or Burgundy (Zalto Burgundy)

MATURED CHAMPAGNES By matured champagne we mean both non-vintage and vintage champagnes that have been aged for two or more decades. A matured champagne usually has a ripe and gentle character, whose sharp acidity has been rounded and whose fizz has lost some of its ebullience. Its taste profile is vinous and complex, typically with aromas of dried fruits and nuts. Due to the aromatic and gently acidic nature of an aged champagne, it should be served from a glass larger than the traditional flute. The choice of glass should be made carefully, however, because the oldest champagnes do not take to oxidation. In these cases one should be aware that kindly glasses with large bowls can cause rapid oxidation. When enjoying a mature champagne, it is good to have a couple of different stemware options on hand. If the champagne proves to be slightly oxidised upon opening, it should be enjoyed from a narrow glass. In our comparison, the mature champagne category was represented by a non-vintage Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve from the 1970s. The champagne, which was in excellent condition, worked best in glasses with a large bowl. The top choice RECOMMENDED GLASS was the Zalto Burgundy, while the Schott Zwiesel Bordeaux glass Bordeaux or Burgundy came second. (Zalto Burgundy) CONFIRMED KNOWLEDGE One of the most noteworthy results of this comparison was that the greatest taste differences caused by the shape of the glass were found in non-vintage champagnes, both ordinary and rosé. These are the most popular champagnes in terms of the quantities enjoyed, but the choice of glass is most significant in their case. It is also worth noting that the Riedel Ouverture Champagne glass, which represents the most commonly used type, was at the bottom of the comparison for both of these champagnes. The biggest surprise was the success of the Burgundy glass model. Few people would think to serve champagne from a large vessel reminiscent of an aroma glass, but based on our experiences, the Burgundy glass is a worthwhile alternative when serving luxury champagnes. Out of the glasses in our test, the greatest recognition is reserved for the Collection champagne glass developed by sommelier Philippe Jamesse from the Champagne region. It placed in the top three for all the tasted champagnes and twice at number one, thereby proving itself to be the top choice for a generalpurpose glass. GOOD TO KNOW WHY THE GLASS AFFECTS THE TASTE OF WINE The effect of a glass on the perceived taste of wine is due to the size of the mouth and the thickness of the glass. These two factors together influence how the wine is directed into the drinker's mouth and onto the taste buds on the tongue. SIZE OF MOUTH Enjoyed from a wide-rimmed glass, a wine will taste more acidic and sharper, as it has direct contact with the taste buds that determine acidity on the sides of the tongue. A narrow glass, on the other hand, directs the wine onto the tip of the tongue, where the taste buds that detect sweetness are located. This emphasises the sweet and fruity tones of the wine. This means that the traditional long and narrow champagne flute will make a sharply acidic champagne taste softer and more fruity. The opposite of the flute is the wide-angled coupe, which is reminiscent of a cocktail glass. With its wide mouth, it emphasises the sharp and acidic characteristics of the drink. THICKNESS OF GLASS The thickness of the glass determines whether the wine hits either the front or back of the mouth. A thinner glass will direct its contents to the front part of the mouth, providing a greater balance to the flavour. > Fi n e Te s t s 91 TYPE:

The Best Glass for Champagne Style Zalto Bourgogne Verrerie de la Marne Riedel Spiegelau Collection Philippe Jamessen Ouverture Red Wine Authentis White Wine Grand Champagne Riedel Schott Zwiesel Schott Zwiesel Ouverture Champagne The First by Enrico Bernardon Viña Bordeaux Non-vintage Ranking 1 2 92 3 4 5 6 7 TAITTINGER PRELUDE GRANDS CRUS NV Glass Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne The First by Enrico Bernardo (Zwiesel) Riedel Ouverture Red Wine Spiegelau Authentis White Wine Riedel Ouverture Champagne Schott Zwiesel Vina Bordeaux Zalto Bourgogne Nose Fresh, lemony, white flowers Elegant, floral, ripe apples Expressive, toasty, touch of truffles Dusty, pears Fresh apples, creamy, macademian nuts Rich, toasty, toffee nose Lack of intensity, spirity, tropical Palate Dry, rich mouthfeel, broad, electric, energetic, persitent Dry, fresh, energetic, fruity, mineral Dry, seductively fruity, floral, vivid Dry, very crisp, intense, l emony, vivid Dry, crisp, fruity, mineral Dry, austere, crisp, stingy Dry, crisp, mineral, lack of fruit, turning austere Comments Fresh, long, persitent Complex, vivid Long, harmonious Crisp, pungent Fresh but upfront and short Shaking balance Taste detoriates Non-vintage Rosé Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 CHARLES HEIDSIECK ROSÉ NV Glass Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne Schott Zwiesel Vina Bordeaux The First by Enrico Bernardo (Zwiesel) Riedel Ouverture Champagne Riedel Ouverture Red Wine Spiegelau Authentis White Wine Zalto Bourgogne Nose Reserved, ripe wild strawberries, complex, toasty Delicate, reserved, strawberries, touch of toastiness Delicate, reserved, wild strawberries, complex Intense, fresh, peachy nose with strawberries Fresh, round, creamy Dull, reserved, less expressive Numb, dull Palate Dry, rich mousse, crisp, vivid and energetic, bit short Dry, rich mousse, crisp, fresh, yet not refined Dry, silky, vivid, crisp, light, lingering Dry, crisp, fresh strawberries Dry, crisp, rich mousse, slowly rolling full mouthfeel Dry, crisp, short, cranberry Dry, mellow, rich and round ripe fruit Comments Concentrated, firm finish Expressive, but lack of finest nuances Elegant and light Crisp yet austere Round, harmonious and fresh Energetic Delicate but flat

Prestige Cuvée Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 PIPER HEIDSIECK RARE 2002 Glass The First by Enrico Bernardo (Zwiesel) Zalto Bourgogne Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne Riedel Ouverture Red Wine Spiegelau Authentis White Wine Schott Zwiesel Vina Bordeaux Riedel Ouverture Champagne Nose Refined, delicate, reserved, creamy Complex, aromatic Expressive, toasty, vanilla, ripe fruits, fresh Rich, creamy, vanilla Fresh, creamy, intense Fresh, strawberries, cream, vanilla Fresh, toasty, seductive Palate Dry, refined palate, long mineral mousse, gently creamy and toasty finish Dry, gentle, fresh, spicy Dry, crisp, focused, firm, crisp Dry, intense mousse, vivid, lemony, mineral, silky Dry, crisp, concentrated, intense Dry, crisp, firm, mineral, lemony, astringent Dry, crisp, vivid, citrus, lingering Comments Elegant and refined Complex, aromatic Explosive, refined, lack bit of length Round and supple Intense and focused Fresh, tight, austere Lean and fresh Prestige Cuvée Rosé Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Glass DOM PÉRIGNON ROSÉ 2000 Nose Fresh, intense, strawberry Expressive, open, strawberries Fresh, ripe red fruits Reserved, fresh, strawberries Reserved, fresh red fruits Reserved, floral, strawberries, raspberries, touch of vanilla Reserved, brioche Palate Dry, perfumy, crisp, mineral, complex, rich Dry, round, rich, creamy, mineral, toasty Dry, vivid, round, rich, mineral Dry, crisp, vivid, energetic, long Rich mousse, round, supple Dry, crisp, floral, vivid, concentrated, tight finish Dry, rich, intense, concentrated, lovely Comments Intense, complex, rich Reserved and concentrated Elegant and refined Firm and tannic Creamy, vivid, round Elegant, tight Intense, lovely Zalto Bourgogne Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne Schott Zwiesel Vina Bordeaux Spiegelau Authentis White Wine Riedel Ouverture Red Wine The First by Enrico Bernardo (Zwiesel) Riedel Ouverture Champagne Mature champagne Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT RESERVE NV 1970S Glass Zalto Bourgogne Schott Zwiesel Vina Bordeaux Collection Philippe Jamesse Grand Champagne Riedel Ouverture Red Wine The First by Enrico Bernardo (Zwiesel) Riedel Ouverture Champagne Spiegelau Authentis White Wine Nose Aromatic, nutty, complex Toasty, hattara, lemony Nutty, red apples, walnutty Intense, nutty, waxy, complex nose Elegant, nutty, apple Intense, nutty, dried fruits Smoky, intense, walnutty Palate Intense nutty, long, intense, lingering Dry, crisp, vivid, lemony, Dry, crisp, intense, lingering long finish Dry, crisp, vivid, elegant, complex Dry, vivid, crisp, dried fruits, complex Dry, intense, vivid fruity, nutty, dried fruits Dry, vivid, nutty, toasty finish Comments Expressive, vinous Intense, concentrated Concentrated, intense finish, toasty Intense, vivid Complex, vivid and intense Consistent, focused Firm and crisp Fi n e Te s t s 93

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1990 FINE Vintage Text: Peter Liem 96 mong the vintages of the last quarter-century, 1990 is one of the most controversial: some regard it as one of the great vintages of modern times, while others feel that it has delivered less than initially promised. As the final piece of the great trio of vintages that closed out the decade, it was highly anticipated in the marketplace, and in the Champagne region it enjoys a high reputation even today. The 1990 vintage is thought of as a warm one, yet, as with 1989 it was marked by severe frosts in the spring. In fact, the weather conditions overall were not dissimilar to those of 1989, but if anything they were more extreme, with more forceful heat during warm periods and more virulent frosts during the cold ones. Like many vintages of modern times, it began rather gently: a mild winter was followed by warm, dry weather in February and March that accelerated the growth of the vines, and buds began appearing by late March, a full 12 days earlier than in the previous year. Unfortunately, the weather soon changed dramatically, bringing a fierce cold front into the region in early April. Temperatures dropped as low as -7°C in the Marne during the evening of April 4, and 6°C in the Aube on April 18 and 19. The resulting frosts took a severe toll on the developing buds, which had been made vulnerable by their precocious growth, and overall nearly 12 000 hectares, or 45 per cent of the production area, were affected by the frost. Ironically, warm weather was to return soon after, with temperatures soaring to over 30°C in the month of May. As before, though, this did not last, and by the time of floraison in June it had turned cool and damp, provoking both coulure and millerandage. The summer, however, was warm and dry, and 1990 is especially remembered for the hot month of August, which saw temperatures as high as 35 to 40°C. Due to this summer warmth, the health of the grapes was excellent, and they remained free of disease and rot up until the harvest in mid-to-late September. With all of the difficulties in the early part of the year, growers were anticipating a low-yielding vintage, but in fact the reverse was true. The summertime warmth promoted healthy and vigorous ripening, and in addition the light rains just before harvest served to swell the grapes, adding to their weight. In the end, 1990 produced the third-largest harvest on record up until that time, after 1983 and 1982, and throughout the region vinegrowers were ecstatic about both the quality and quantity of their grapes. Due to the high quality of the raw material, 1990 was immediately hailed as a great vintage, compared even to legendary vintages such

as 1928, and touted by most as the finest of the unusually successful trilogy that included the two previous years. Both average ripeness and average acidity levels were higher than those of 1989, reinforcing the belief that the 1990s were powerful and ageworthy wines, and, when looking purely at the numbers, they seemed ideal. When these wines were being released in the mid-to-late 1990s, there was a great deal of excitement surrounding all three vintages ­ 1988, 1989 and 1990 ­ and the general feeling among both producers and consumers at the time was that 1990 was the most favoured vintage of the trio. As with the 1989s, the 1990 champagnes were immediately inviting, showing a precocious charm and delicious depth of flavour. Furthermore, they also demonstrated a fine structure, their acidity levels balancing the natural ripeness of the vintage. Indeed, all looked to be well for the long haul. About ten years after the vintage, however, tastings of 1990 champagnes began to yield unexpected results. Where the wines were once vibrant and vividly defined, many began to show unusual signs of oxidation, sometimes in conjunction with a pronounced volatile acidity. Some producers said that it was just a phase that the wines were going through, and that they needed more time. Others felt that the wines were maturing more rapidly than anticipated. Today, the question of premature oxidation continues to be the primary concern about the 1990s; why exactly this has happened is still open to debate. "The explanation is not so simple," says Dominique Demarville, chef de cave of Veuve Clicquot. "[It's puzzling because] in general, the wines from 1990 have a good structure and the grapes at the harvest indicated the potential for making wines for very long ageing." He notes that often it is necessary to be very careful with these wines: "I think that the 1990s, like many other vintages (notably 1996), are very fragile at disgorgement. It is important during this operation to protect the wines well with sulphur to avoid any problems." At Louis Roederer, chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon notes that while many 1990s have a tendency towards slight oxidation, the best ones continue to show a lot of promise, and he still believes that the vintage is capable of delivering excellent wines. "When you get a bottle with very little oxidation, 1990 becomes great and unique," he says. "My overall impression of 1990 is that it is a year of perfect balance and precision. It doesn't have the power and vinosity of 1989, but it is clean, precise, elegant and very Champenois." Peter Liem's ChampagneGuide.net is the web's most comprehensive guide to the wines and wine producers of Champagne. The online guide features profiles of over 100 champagne producers, from renowned négociant houses to small grower estates. It is an informative, highly detailed and continually updated wine guide written from an insider's point of view. Fi n e V i n ta g e 97

How to read FINE's tasting notes: We open and taste more fine and rare wines than any other wine media in the world. As these wines are so special, we firmly believe that they deserve to be presented in the best possible manner, and in a way that will serve our readers well. This is why our tasting notes include lot more information than just a basic description of each wine. The topics we cover in our tasting notes, other than colour, nose, taste and finish, are: The given price is a six-month average paid in auctions run by major auction houses throughout Europe, the USA and Asia (FINE Wine Index) A short description of the wine Mentions if the wine is worthy of its price based on its rarity and our tasting experience 98 How many times we have tasted the wine and the most recent tasting Recommends the length of time each wine should be decanted before serving How long the wine lasts having been poured into the glass The year we believe each wine will reach its optimum drinkability The perfect dish to accompany each wine Calculates the risk of encountering counterfeit bottles. This is an estimate based on the FINE editorial team's experience Shares specific information about the wine or vintage, which will add value to the tasting experience Instead of this wine, another option is o ered that might be more a suitable investment Wraps up our opinion about the wine In our wine evaluations, the most significant factor is the scoring system. We score wines according the pleasure they deliver today, not according to their potential. Our purpose is to make sure you enjoy the wines when they are at their optimum, in order to ensure the wines not only deliver the greatest pleasure but also the best possible value. As one of FINE's fundamental values is to support excellence, we have made the decision to not publish wines that receive 79 points or below. We use a 100-point evaluation system, where the wines have been divided into the following categories: 99­100 A wine with the wow-e ect. Sheer perfection to all senses by every parameter of wine quality. A true gift from nature. 95­98 An outstanding wine that leaves an unforgettable tasting experience with its perfect structure, complexity and personality. 90­94 An excellent wine, that stands out by balance, intensity, complexity and character. 86­89 A good wine with balance and complexity. 80­85 An average, though well-made wine. Nose and palate are somewhat one-dimensional and impersonal. 50­79 A modest and straightforward wine lacking life and harmony. This wine is excluded from appearing in FINE Tastings.

1990 FINE Vintage Grand tasting of the 1990 vintage in Copenhagen Taster: Essi Avellan MW Last year I had the privilege of attending a glorious 1990 Champagne Day with an amiable group of Danish champagne aficionados. Organised by Jesper Heedegard, we enjoyed more than thirty of the greatest bottles of 1990 over lunch and dinner. We dined at the classic French restaurant Pierre André, where chef Philippe Houdet displayed his outstanding skills when it comes to matching champagne and food. The controversial 1990 vintage cuvées gave us some ups and downs: Cristal and Cristal Rosé, for example, showed just magnificently. They were so monumental, refined and vibrant. The Dom Pérignons put up a real fight, though, with the regular DP showing the best and the Oenothèque not far behind. The biggest disappointment of the day was the corked bottle of Dom Pérignon Rosé. Based on my previous sips of it, it is one of the finest Dom Pérignon Rosés ever produced, but now we will never know if it had the capacity to challenge Cristal Rosé. Another bottle that suffered from slight cork taint was Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. Despite an obvious fault, it was still able to show some of its charms, and, based on that and my previous encounters, I can still warmly recommend it. Both Krugs showed power and vitality, as did the three Bollingers we had in the tasting ­ my favourite was La Grande Année but many of my fellow tasters, I noticed, voted in favour of Vielles Vignes Françaises. Both the Dom Ruinart Rosé and Cuvée William Deutz were absolutely stunning, and both names many might overlook. The biggest disappointments were Salon and Pommery Cuvée Louise, the latter of which probably due to bad storage conditions. Salon had no obvious fault, so I would need to taste it again before making my final assessment. Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 1990 Louis Roederer Cristal 1990 Dom Pérignon 1990 Fi n e V i n ta g e 99

Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil 1990 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz 1990 100 Dom Pérignon Oenotheque 1990 Krug Vintage 1990 Bollinger La Grande Année 1990

Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 1990 Franç Charles Heidsieck Vintage 1990 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas Francois Billecart 1990 Jacquesson Signature 1990 Jacquesson Signature Rosé 1990 Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle 1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1990 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1990 Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne 1990 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 1990 Gosset Célébris Jacquesson DT 1990 Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs 1990 Duval-Leroy Cuvée des Roys 1990 G.H. Mumm 1990 Bruno Paillard Nec Plus Ultra 1990 Bollinger RD 1990 Jacquesson Blanc de Blancs 1990 Larmandier-Bernier Special Club 1990 Ruinart Dom Ruinart 1990 Salon 1990 Pommery Cuvée Louise 1990 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé 1990 Fi n e V i n ta g e 101

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Part 3/3 Text: Jukka Sinivirta 105 Champagne is an icon of Frenchness, and the love of the French for this wine is clear from the fact that the country consumes most of the champagne that is produced. Champagne is also a very technical wine, and modern know-how has made it more affordable than its illustrious past might warrant. Champagne arrived at its current form after two and a half centuries of development. S parkling champagne had conquered the courts of Europe by the mid-1700s, and huge quantities were consumed in the palaces of London, Vienna, Berlin and Madrid. Champagne sales more than doubled between 1740 and 1770. Exports of French wines grew significantly, although only some of them were sparkling. Most of the wines produced were still red wines, with non-sparkling, quality white wines favoured by gourmands, but in Paris the party would not get started without the popping of a cork, or a saute bouchon. Ageing courtiers loved pouring the white foam onto beautiful young ladies. The fact that carbon dioxide facilitates the absorption of alcohol into the blood, making champagne drinkers merry in no time, was of no great insignificance either. These kinds of parties quickly became the fashion and were imitated in other countries, and nothing could have been more effective in raising the popularity of champagne and increasing its reputation as the merry-making drink of love. In London, The Connoisseur wrote in 1754 of a party where young dandies had been drinking with a renowned prostitute, until one of them stole the girl's shoe. With great pomp and circumstance he filled the shoe with champagne and drank a toast to the lady. After that the shoe was battered, fried and served with gravy for supper. Fi n e H i s t o r y c hampagne The Story of

Bismarck would later say: "My patriotism stops short of my stomach." Champagne marketing was aggressive, but at the same time it was a careful and sensitive job. The champagne houses wanted to fill not only the glasses of the rich and the powerful, but also those of their competitors and enemies. During the French Revolution, as the guillotine routinely decapitated champagne customers, many a marquis and count was addressed simply as "citizen" on their order labels and in the account books. Many of those awaiting execution asked for champagne as their final request, and the revolutionaries who had sent them to the chopping block enjoyed the same drink. Champagne salesmen waited on the flanks of battlefields to see who won, in order to fill their glasses and take orders for more celebratory wine. Champagne took no sides in battle, nor did it know the boundaries of nationality. As Bismarck would later say: "My patriotism stops short of my stomach." Jean-Rémy Moët was a friend of Napoleon, but that did not stop him from entertaining every prince and general of the Allies, or becoming the official purveyor of every European court in peacetime. In the stormy period at the end of Napoleon's reign, as the Russians and Prussians pursued the falling Frenchman, the army's troops consumed huge quantities of champagne. Officers who got a taste for the drink would later become important customers for the trade in their home countries. The Russian market swiftly grew in importance. dioxide. However, there were major problems in production; the techniques involved in producing the sparkling drink were primitive, expensive and unreliable. Previously, indeed a number of years beforehand, producers had learned to add sugar to increase effervescence, but the higher pressure generated by this caused glass bottles to break. Customers had to be rich to begin with, but many of them began to demand guarantees of the durability of bottles and refused to pay for broken ones. At this time, one half of all the champagne bottles produced would explode in cellars, which was life-threatening to workers. The problem was all but solved in one fell swoop when the pharmacist André François from Châlon-sur-Marne invented the sucre-oenomètre in 1836. It gave a fairly reliable reading of the sugar content of wine. This soon led to fewer bottle breakages and a more scientific basis for the control of effervescence. The pressure in champagne bottles could be increased, and as chemists took over François's work the breakage rate was eventually ­ within sixty years ­ lowered to between one and two per cent. 106 CLEAR WINE During the second fermentation, champagne bottles develop sediment, for which there was initially no solution. It was best to empty champagne glasses in one mouthful and leave the glass upside down on the table. The next one would then be served from a clean glass. Later, glasses were made with a pocket or narrowing at the base to catch the deposit when the glass was tipped. This was difficult, as was removing the sediment from the bottles through decanting into a clean bottle. The transfer from one bottle to another also made the wine lose its fizz. Finally, a famous lady's table came to the rescue. FEWER BROKEN BOTTLES Sales of sparkling champagne grew exponentially as the end of the eighteenth century neared, and more champagne houses were established. In 1776 it was confirmed that the bubbles in champagne consisted of carbon

Widowed in 1805, Madame Clicquot-Ponsardin was forced to make an unheard-of and courageous resolution for that time: she decided to take on her late husband's role as the leader of a champagne house. From the very beginning of her brave move, she displayed exceptional daring, determination and business instinct. Her cellar master Antoine Muller came up with a wooden stand, the pupitre, in which bottles were turned and gradually inclined to deposit the sediment in the neck of the bottle. When the bottle was corked, pressure pushed the sediment out while most of the bubbles were retained, unlike when the wine was decanted. Legend has it that the stand was made out of the Madame's kitchen table. With competition as tough as it was, she managed to keep the invention secret for a while. Clicquot-Ponsardin's salesman simply boasted to his customers that the estate's champagne was as clear as a mountain stream. Later, wine clarification was made easier by the method of dégorgement à la glace, developed by the Belgian Armand Walfart in 1884. In it, the bottleneck and the sediment it contained were chilled in a very cold saline solution. The deposit stuck to the ice slush and was relatively easy to remove when the cork was popped, without specialist assistance. Adolphe Jacquesson had already invented the wire cage that kept the cork in place in 1844, and William Deutz later complemented this with a metal cap. In 1852, Jacquesson developed a machine for washing the bottles. Today, all of this seems very simple but at the time these inventions provided the keys to expanding production ­ in time with the growing railway network which was able to transport bottles further and further afield. This was one of the golden ages of champagne. 107 THE SLOW BREAKTHROUGH OF DRY CHAMPAGNE When champagne production took on industrial proportions, it was still a very sweet drink. Upon recorking, huge quantities of sugar were added to the wine. Sweetness was important, because customers were used to it and it also helped to hide deficiencies in the wine. A dry wine required a much longer ageing process and more carefully selected grapes. At worst, a shift from sweet to dry could have led to a loss of reputation and the disappearance of customers. It would have been a foolhardy thing to attempt. Louise Pommery had been planning a dry champagne, however, from the time she inherited her champagne house. Experiments in the 1860s failed and there were many sceptics. "Like swallowing razorblades," one of her employees said. Determined, she continued experimenting. 1874 was one of the best vintages of the century, and it was a make-or-break moment for Pommery. The Pommery 1874 was such a success on the British market that poets dedicated odes to it and customers were prepared to pay anything for a taste. It was a complete and utter triumph, making the small house of Pommery & Greno one of the leading establishments in its field and gradually changing the entire concept of champagne. That was the first commercial Brut. Overall, the shift was not complete until well into the twentieth century, because consumer tastes change slowly. But champagne had become white, sparkling and dry. > ©Copyright Fi n e H i s t o r y "Like swallowing razorblades," one of her employees said.

Épernay 108 Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Michael Boudot Épernay, located at the meeting point between the departments of the Champagne region, could be referred to as the capital of Champagne. It literally lives on champagne. Épernay's most inviting tourist destination, the Avenue de Champagne, is like the Champs-Elysées of Champagne, featuring producers such as Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, Perrier-Jouët and De Venoge. This pleasant town of 26 000 inhabitants has lately received new energy from fresh restaurants, and friends of champagne will also be gratified by the high-quality wine merchants in the town. FINE Champagne is currently publishing extracts from Essi Avellan's champagne book, Matka Champagneen (`Discovering Champagne'). In her book, Avellan visits 50 of the most interesting producers in the wine region. Furnished with maps, the book is also an opportunity for champagne lovers to discover the epicurean's dream location for themselves. Avellan opens doors to the region's best restaurants, hotels and wine stores. In this issue, we feature her top tips for Épernay.

dom pérignon T ChAmpAgne dom pÉrignon nm www.domperignon.com 20, avenue de Champagne, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 51 20 20 Annual production (bottles): unconfirmed Cellar master: Richard Geoffroy moët & Chandon and dom pérignon are open to guests daily, 9:30­11:30 a.m. and 2:30­4:30 p.m. Bookings can be made at www.moet.com. The cost of the visit is 14.50­27.00, depending on the tasted champagnes. There is an exclusive Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon shop by the cellars. 109 I had excitedly awaited the Dom Pérignon 2002 vintage, launched in late 2010, as that was one of the best vintages in history. To my great joy even the first sip confirmed to me that we would be enjoying a quite excellent champagne for the next two or three years. According to the winemaking team, this vintage is reminiscent of the legendary DP 1990, but "even better". From that decade's vintages my favourites have been 1990, 1995, 1996 and 1998, but the 2002 is in a league of its own. It has an intensity, freshness and clarity I value, and its character is unmistakably Dom Pérignon-like. It already garners a top score of 94, but the coming years will raise it near to perfection. Dom Pérignon is one of the most reductive champagnes, which refers to refraining from any oxidation during the production process. This makes it slightly closed, very minerally and cool in its youth. As a reductive wine made from top-quality grapes, it ages very slowly but beautifully. It has an interesting blend of tightness and mildness, as well as sensitivity and a strong backbone. Most of the grapes for Dom Pérignon come from nine villages, including the Chardonnay villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and the Pinot Noir villages of Aÿ, Bouzy, Mailly, Ver- zenay and Hautvillers. This is not written in stone, however, and neither is an exact blend. More important than the exact proportions is the perfect harmony of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the taste. Wine production: Fermentation in steel tanks with minimal oxygen contact. Once the final blend is made, the wine is bottle-aged, after the second fermentation, for some seven years. In recent years, the sweetening of Dom Pérignon has been reduced; the 2002 vintage only has 7 g/l added sugar. Style: Deep and clear lemon-yellow colour. Streamlined, refined fruity aroma with notes of lemon, peach, toffee, gunpowder, straw and a charming and sweet toastiness. Powerful and intense mouthfeel with roundness and length. The mild character hides a sleek acidity. Young and somewhat reserved, but contains a lot of strength and concentrated fruits. dom pérignon 2002 94 p. dom pérignon rosé 2000 94 p. · dom pérignon oenothéque 1996 95 p. dom pérignon oenothéque rosé 1990 95 p. 127 127 serving temperature: 10 °C drinkability: 0--35 years grapes: Roughly even blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e he big brother of all champagnes, Dom Pérignon, started as a luxury cuvée of Moët & Chandon, but has now attained a life of its own. With cellar master Richard Geoffroy as the brand's stylistic and qualitative guardian, Dom Pérignon has been separated from Moët & Chandon. Dom Pérignon's spiritual home may be the Abbey of Hautvillers, but the wine is produced in Moët & Chandon's facilities. The paths of both champagnes diverge in the cellar, however. After a joint winemaking process, Dom Pérignon has first call for its base wines of choice, because its elegant and long-lasting style demands streamlined, mineral and silky wines. The exact volumes are a trade secret, but in any case more of this champagne is produced here than in most of the sizeable houses put together. I admire Dom Pérignon's balancing act between the two extremes; it manages to retain its image as a desirable and rare luxury product despite the large production quantities. Geoffroy's wine also admirably joins to- gether two contradictions: early drinkability and ageing potential. Contrary to many other luxury champagnes, the cellar master's aim is to create a drinkable, harmonious champagne that does not divide opinion too much. Geoffroy speaks poetically of Dom Pérignon. He places the greatest emphasis on the wine's liveliness and mouthfeel, or texture. It must progress seamlessly and silkily caress the palate. Geoffroy knows the long structure that he aspires to as Dom Pérignon's slide, which is reminiscent of the movement of a surfer on the crest of a wave. Upon its arrival on the market in 1935, Dom Pérignon gave rise to the all-new category of luxury champagnes. The idea of the estate's legendary leader, Robert-Jean de Vogüé, to dedicate a wine to the father of champagne, Dom Pérignon, changed the entire structure of the market. The first wine came from the 1921 vintage, and possesed a previously unheard-of bottle ageing period of 14 years. Until the 1943 vintage, however, Dom Pérignon was the same as Moët & Chandon Vintage, as it was transferred to the old-fashioned containers only after bottle ageing. Dom Pérignon Rosé was launched in 1971 from the 1959 vintage. With its emphasis on Pinot Noir, the rosé version is much stronger and vinous than the basic Dom Pérignon. This characteristic is particularly emphasised in the latest vintage, 2000. Geoffroy also dared to lay a finger on a repository of old vintages, which had previously only been accessible to cellar masters. The Oenothèque series, launched in 2000, brings to market small batches of wines that have been kept on lees for very long periods. If any sceptics remained, these champagnes finally proved the true potential of Dom Pérignon, which is only fulfilled after a sufficiently long ageing process.

pol roger T he greatest champion of Pol Roger wines, Sir Winston Churchill, called the location of the house on the Avenue de Champagne "the world's most drinkable address". Pol Roger is, in fact, perhaps best known for its links to Churchill, who was known as an epicurean and a champagne lover. Churchill was also good friends with Jacques Pol-Roger's wife Odette. Pol Roger, native of the Grand Cru village of Aÿ, established the estate in 1849 at the age of 19. Upon his death in 1899, the estate was left in the hands of his sons Maurice and Georges Roger, who changed their surname to Pol-Roger in honour of their father. Maurice led the company until 1959, when it was transferred to his son Jacques and Jacques's nephew Guy. The fourth generation, Christian PolRoger and Christian de Billy, took over the reins in 1963. Christian de Billy's son Hubert is currently at the helm. He is assisted by directors Patrice Noyelle and Laurent d'Harcourt, both of whom hail from outside the family. The family business owns 89 hectares of parcels, which provide around one half of the grapes needed by the champagne house. Cellar master James Coffinet implemented the practice of settling (débourbage), which contributes to the wines' clean fruitiness and fine effervescence. Another factor that sets this house apart from others is the low temperature of the cellars, 9.5°C, which lengthens the second fermentation. Otherwise, there are no particular tricks in the house's methods; for instance, oak is not used at all. The current cellar master, Dominique Petit, who came to the estate from Krug in 1999, is about to have access to a state-of-the-art cellar, all of whose tanks have been gradually replaced between 2000 and 2010. There are no weak points in the estate's selection. The Brut Réserve, created from an even blend of the three major grapes, is continuously one of the best standard champagnes from the region. Its completely dry version, Pure, is a successful novelty, although in a side-by-side tasting I prefer the Brut. It is in the vintage champagnes that Pol Roger's autolytic, baked style really comes into its own. Of its three vintage champagnes, my favourite is the creamy and refined Blanc de Blancs, which was until recently known as Blanc de Chardonnay. The ordinary vintage champagne is a sure bet, while in the rosé category Pol Roger's characteristic Pinot Noir is elegantly emphasised. Thanks to Hubert de Billy, the Rich has also undergone a transformation; with its developed toasty aromas it is now one of the region's best demi-secs. Its secret lies in longer bottle ageing than that of the Brut Réserve, as well as in cellar ageing after disgorgement. ChAmpAgne pol roger nm www.polroger.com 1, rue Henri le Large, 51206 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 59 58 00 Annual production (bottles): 1 800 000 Cellar master: Dominique Petit pol roger does not admit guests, but friends of champagne may admire the beauty of the house's cellars while walking along the Avenue de Champagne. The friendship between Odette Pol-Roger and Sir Winston Churchill was sealed in many ways. PolRoger sent Churchill a case of his favourite vintage, 1928, every year for his birthday. Despite going as far as naming one of his race horses Pol Roger, Winston Churchill never visited the house in Champagne and could therefore not fulfil his promise of coming to crush some of their grapes with his bare feet. Churchill gave an apt description of his preferences: "My tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best." In accordance with this principle, the cuvée is made from grapes from the best vineyards, in the best years. Stylistically, the wine is in line with Churchill's likes, as it is strong, mature, full-bodied and muscular. The exact grape composition of the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is a secret, but it places strong emphasis on Pinot Noir. Twelve vintages of the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill have been launched: 1975, 1979, 1982, 1985, 1986, 1988, 1990, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1998 and 1999. The recently released 1999 is voluptuous and rich. Not a top vintage, but a good version of this wine with medium-term potential. Wines that are currently at a great stage of development include the 1995, 1990 and 1988. Wine production: After pressing, the juice is clarified twice at cool temperatures (débourbage). Fermentation takes place in steel tanks and only the core of the pressing ends up in the cuvée. The wine then undergoes malolactic fermentation. According to house tradition, the final blend is determined only by family members. The wine ferments and matures in exceptionally cool cellars for around ten years, before the sediment is manually riddled into the neck of the bottle. Sweetening: 7­8 g/l. After disgorging, the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is left to rest in cellars for a further 6­12 months. Style: Deep, gold-tinged lemon-yellow colour. The aroma is open with notes of baked apple, pear and spices. As the wine breathes in a glass, coffee notes reveal themselves behind the sweet fruitiness. The broad, creamy taste is still slightly tight, but mouthfilling and powerful. Minerals are emphasised in the taste, which also has a hint of tannins and a very long, intensely fruity aftertaste. pol roger cuvée sir winston churchill 1999 92 p. 120 serving temperature: 12 °C drinkability: 0--25 years grapes: unknown, emphasis on Pinot Noir Brut réserve nv 89 p. · pure Brut nature nv 89 p. · rich nv 87 p. vintage 2004 91 p. · Blanc de Blancs 1999 92 p. · vintage rosé 2002 92 p.

Sights, Restaurants and Bars in Épernay Avenue de ChAmpAgne 51200 Épernay The Moët & Chandon cellars kick off the Avenue de Champagne. Also along the avenue is the handsome Renaissance-style Château Perrier, built in 1854. Once a champagne château, it is now a museum and library. ChAmpAgne de CAstellAne 63, avenue de Champagne, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 51 19 11 www.castellane.com Open daily from April to the end of December, 10 a.m.­ 12 p.m. and 2 p.m.­6 p.m. January to March only by appointment. 111 Champagne de Castellane can be recognised thanks to its high tower, which stands proudly over the Épernay cityscape - even from afar. If you wish to awaken your appetite, climb to the top of the 66-metre tower, as it affords a great view over Épernay, the river Marne and the surrounding vineyards. As you climb, you can take in the history of de Castellane. The museum on the ground floor illustrates the history of champagne production. A visit to the cellars is not possible, but there are tastings and sales of the estate's champagnes. hôtel lA villA eugène 82--84, avenue de Champagne, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 32 44 76 www.villa-eugene.com De Castellane tower is a land mark. Named after the original owner of the villa and the creator of Champagne Mercier, Eugène Mercier, this delightful boutique hotel is right at the end of the Avenue de Champagne. The hotel's 15 unconventional rooms and suites are decorated in either the romantic style of Louis XIV or in a colonial manner. Room prices range from e129 to e344, and the hotel also has a charming swimming pool. Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e The number one destination in Épernay is undoubtedly the Avenue de Champagne. It is worth traversing from its beginning at the Place de la Republique all the way to Champagne Mercier. All of the city's famous champagne houses, such as Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, Perrier-Jouët, Boizel, De Venoge and Mercier, are located along the avenue. Beneath the surface, the Avenue de Champagne is like Swiss cheese, with a huge number of underground tunnels comprising cellars filled with champagne. It is also worth stopping to admire Épernay's oldest hotel, Trianon, erected opposite the Moët & Chandon cellars by Jean-Rémy Moët in 1793. Inspired by the Palace of Versailles, the Trianon was built for the purpose of housing Jean-Rémy's friend Napoleon and his troops on their visits. A beautiful orangery was built at the back of the park that follows on from the Trianon, in order to help the emperor feel at home.

une Famille, un Clos, un Premier Cru Une trilogie fondée sur les liens familiaux et la passion d'un terroir 5, rue du Mesnil · 51130 Vertus Tél. : +33 (0)3 26 52 16 30 · Fax : +33 (0)3 26 52 20 13 info@champagne-veuve-fourny.com · www.champagne-veuve-fourny.com L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération.

ChAmpAgne merCier 68--70, avenue de Champagne, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 51 22 22 www.champagnemercier.fr Open daily, no appointment necessary. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays between 18 February and 24 March, and between 16 November and 13 December. The cost of the cellar tour and a tasting of one champagne is 9, or 17 with the three-champagne tasting option. Children aged 12­18 admitted for 5 with no tasting. Free admission for children under 12. I recommend a visit to the Mercier cellars mostly from a tourism point of view, because its tours are exceptionally well organised. Nowadays a part of the LVMH Group, Mercier champagnes are approachable and uncomplicated, if a little characterless. Mercier is easy to visit, and the fact that the tour of the huge cellars is done by train makes it more exciting than usual for children. The estate also has an enticing shop selling champagnes and related products. The story of Eugène Mercier, known as the great advertising man of his time, is worth hearing. Among other things, Mercier made the world's first-ever advertising film with the Lumière brothers concerning the production of Mercier champagnes, and 3 723 821 people queued to see it! He also had the world's largest oak barrel built for the 1889 World's Fair in Paris. Its journey from Épernay to Paris, drawn by 24 oxen and 18 horses, attracted great attention as bridges collapsed under its weight and entire buildings had to be demolished for it to get through. C Comme ChAmpAgne 8, rue Gambetta, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 32 09 55 www.c-comme.fr Open daily at lunch and dinner times. "Located in central Épernay, the smallholder-owned C comme Champagne is a pleasant champagne bar with an extensive selection of interesting wines from grower-producers, which are available for purchase by the glass or by the bottle." Claude mandois, Champagne mandois ChAmpAgne leClerC-BriAnt 67, rue Chaude Ruelle, 51204 Épernay puh. +33 (0)3 26 54 45 33 www.leclercbriant.com Leclerc-Briant is open to visitors Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.­12 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.­5 p.m. Open by appointment on weekends, bank holidays and outside opening hours. Closed during the second and third weeks of August. Tours are available in French and English and, by previous arrangement, in German or Swedish. mer 2010, I was the 14 281st person to descend. The cost of this experience is e28 per person. After this unique cellar experience, you get to taste the champagne selection of the house, including three very interesting single-vineyard champagnes. While tasting, you may also try your hand at opening a champagne bottle with a sabre. When walking past the Leclerc-Briant building, watch out for raining champagne, as this flamboyant exercise is carried out on the third-floor balcony! 113 A grower-producer which is focused on biodynamic farming, Leclerc-Briant has made its cellar tours more exciting and tourist-friendly than usual. By advance booking, it is possible to descend into the champagne cellars by rope through a 30-metre pit. Originally excavated for the purpose of moving champagne bottles, the pit was transformed into its current format 20 years ago. When I visited in sum- The Leclerc-Briant cellars are a real adventure. CAve sAlvAtori 11, rue Flodoard, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 55 32 32 Open Monday to Saturday 9 a.m.­12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m.­ 7 p.m., and Sundays 9 a.m.­12 p.m. Madame Jacqueline Salvatori's wine shop on the main street of central Épernay is legendary. Now past retirement age, the agreeable Madame has served oenophiles for over 50 years. With its packed shelves, the store is reminiscent of an old-time gro- cery store. The excellent selection mainly comprises high-quality wines from Grande Marque champagne houses, although there are plenty of vintages and the prices are reasonable. Most people become loyal customers from their very first visit. For me it happened a few years ago when I heard that Madame Salvatori had a good selection of Philipponnat Clos des Goisses champagne, which I greatly value. I picked my favourite out of the few vintages displayed on the shelves, but the Madame pulled out her last bottle of the excellent 1996 vintage from under the counter and offered it to me, because I "clearly understood champagne". On my next visit she recalled I had been there before. It is rare to find such wonderful, old-fashioned customer service! Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e

lA grillAde gourmAnde 16, rue de Reims, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 55 44 22 www.lagrilladegourmande.com La Grillade Gourmande has quickly become the place where many champagne houses entertain their guests in Épernay. Christophe Bernard is inspired by local delicacies and French classics, and features them with a personal touch. Many love the restaurant for its excellent fish and meat dishes; the dishes cooked on the open grill are wonderful and the fresh oysters are served all year round. The champagne list is extensive, with a comprehensive selection of wines - especially from producers in the Épernay region. The emphasis is on the best-known houses. The price level is reasonable and the service is warmly welcoming. Christophe Bernard of La Grillade Gourmande barbequing delicacies on an open fire. lA BAnque 40, rue du Général Leclerc, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 59 50 50 www.brasserie-labanque.fr Open daily for lunch and dinner. Situated at the heart of Épernay, by the roundabout at the start of the Avenue de Champagne, La Banque is the latest addition to the city's restaurant world. Unusually for France, the large establishment has a long champagne bar right by the entrance. The restaurant, with its stylish modern décor, is very comfortable, with an inviting terrace at the back during the summer months. The menu is fairly unsurprising, and, although the food is good, it is somewhat overpriced. You seem to be paying more for the location and surroundings than for the food. The champagne list follows an unusual concept, comprising a very heterogeneous selection of champagnes from relatively unknown small producers and a couple of larger houses. A few of the choices are rather puzzling. The best thing is the availability of all champagnes by the glass and, it seems, their turnover, as in my experience the champagnes have at least been optimally fresh. pArvA domus rimAire 27, avenue de Champagne, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 26 32 40 74 www.parvadomusrimaire.com Located in a superb setting along the Avenue de Champagne, Parva Domus Chambre d'hôtes is a new accommodation choice for tourists to consider. The beautiful house has a handful of very simple but elegantly decorated rooms, all of which offer a homely and peaceful milieu. The couple who run the establishment take good care of their guests and the overnight rate of around e80 is more than reasonable. Tout en Bulles is a welcoming, affordable place. tout en Bulles 22, rue de Reims, 51200 Épernay Tel. +33 (0)3 51 61 31 52 Open Monday to Saturday 12 p.m.­2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.­10:30 p.m. There are many fine restaurants in Champagne, but few quality places that are as relaxed, youthful and pleasant to spend time in. One of the latest additions to the restaurant palette in Épernay, Tout en Bulles, fills that niche. Offering uncomplicated, delicious food, Tout en Bulles is easy to approach. It has a relatively brief but interesting champagne list with an emphasis on high-quality small producers and easy affordability. The courtyard terrace is a must in summer.

Key to symbols Winery presentations I have rated each wine estate in two ways. Firstly, the glass rating refers to the general quality of the house's champagnes: I have awarded between one and five glasses. Second, I have given a star rating (one to five stars) to the organisation, setting and content of the visit to the estate, as well as the personnel and their language skills. These ratings are provided at the top right-hand corner of each estate's presentation page. No rating is available for the estates that do not accept guests. At this point I want to draw attention to the fact that each visit is unique. My evaluations are based on my own limited visits to the estates, so there may be surprises ­ both positive and negative. I give the essential details of each house, listing reasons for visiting it and tasting its champagnes on location. I also provide some background information on the estates and their protagonists, and provide an overview of the product selection. Contact details and information concerning visiting arrangements and opening hours are supplied to make it easier to organise a visit. These details may change, however, so I recommend checking in advance with the estate, either on its website or by email. I also offer production volume figures and the name of the cellar master. The second part of each presentation is reserved for my favourite champagne, i.e. the wine that shows the producer at its best or that provides the best introduction to the house. I did my best to formulate a comprehensive catalogue of champagnes of different styles and prices, ranging from 15 to more than 200 euros. I write about my chosen champagne in g reater detail. For each wine, I give the producer's recommended retail price and, if applicable, the price directly from the cellar. top producer excellent producer quality producer Average producer Below-average producer 115 top visit excellent visit good visit Average visit Basic visit I have awarded a star rating to restaurants as follows: top-class restaurant excellent restaurant quality restaurant Average restaurant Basic restaurant The price level of each restaurant is classified as follows: expensive restaurant, menu over 50 euros mid-priced restaurant, menu 25­50 euros inexpensive restaurant, menu under 25 euros I have awarded a star rating to hotels as follows: luxury hotel high-class hotel quality hotel Average hotel Basic hotel The price level of the hotels (overnight stay including breakfast) is classified as follows: expensive hotel, rooms over 180 euros mid-priced hotel, rooms 90­180 euros inexpensive hotel, rooms under 90 euros vintage tables Vintages are also given a star rating, as follows: top vintage excellent vintage Average vintage ordinary vintage poor vintage R recommended retail price C Cellar price Fi n e D i s c ov e r i n g C h a m pa g n e Favourite Champagne

Quality. When embraced doesn't need frills. Gerard Darmon, Paris 2011 KITON.IT

118 Text: Petri Nevalainen Photos: Photo courtesy of Steinway & Sons the low murmur of voices has quietened down. The evening's star performer is about to strike the first chords on the grand I n one of the most famous concert halls of the world,

119 piano. Breathtakingly majestic and beautiful piano music rises from the depths of the wonderful instrument; you can almost see the sound. Steinway has spoken! Fi n e L i f e s t y l e

S 120 `AAKTcSHKFF88 Keys to Heaven teinway & Sons is by far the world's most renowned maker of grand pianos. The soundscape created by the 88 keys on each of its instruments ranges from a thunder-like bass to the crystalline clarity of a mountain stream in the upper registers. Steinway has been favoured by the masters of many musical styles, including Arthur Rubinstein, Richard Wagner, Duke Ellington and John Lennon. A white Steinway grand plays an iconic part in the atmospheric music video to Lennon's best-selling song "Imagine". A limited edition of the peace and purity-exuding "Imagine" piano was released in 2010 to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the birth of the famous Beatle. Many of the world's best musicians share an emotional attachment to Steinway. The acclaimed pianist and conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy called it a high-quality tool with which music professionals can again and again raise their expression to the highest possible level. "Steinway is the only piano on which the pianist can do everything he wants. And everything he dreams," he said. Pop music's celebrated "Piano Man", Billy Joel, has in turn described Steinway as a kind of benchmark of superb expertise in the music world. "I have long admired Steinway pianos for their qualities of tone, clarity, pitch consistency, touch responsiveness and superior craftsmanship," Joel said. "I ave ong mi ed S einwa piano fo hei ua ities one, la ity, pitc onsi ncy, ouc s nsivene n u ri ra smanship,"

THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE PIANO... is not one of Steinway's flagship grand piano models, but a fairly ordinary Model Z upright manufactured at the Hamburg Steinway factory. John Lennon bought it in December 1970, and used it to compose "Imagine". The white Steinway grand seen on the music video is a different piano, gifted by Lennon to his wife Yoko Ono for her birthday. The upright model was sold at auction in 2000 to the singer George Michael, who paid $2.1 million for it. He used it for one recording and then returned it to The Beatles Story museum in Liverpool, where it had previously been on display. He said the piano deserved to be where it could be seen by people rather than in a corner of his living room. The instrument is identifiable by a few cigarette burns apparently left by Lennon. THE MOST EXPENSIVE GRAND PIANO MADE BY STEINWAY... is an art case piano named Sound of Harmony, ordered by the Chinese art collector Guo Qingxiang. It was completed at the Hamburg factory in 2008 after four years of labour, and its cost has been estimated at 1.2 million euros. The piano was played at the Shanghai World Expo in 2010. The Chinese artist Shi Qi gave the finishing touches to the piano, turning it into a work of art consisting of 40 layers of diverse exotic woods. Its frame is the largest and most beautiful of Steinway grands, the Model D. The history of Steinway began in nineteenthcentury Lower Saxony ­ now Germany ­ in the small town of Seesen, which was home to Heinrich Engelhard Steinweg. He had fought against Napoleon's troops and earned a medal for his participation in the Battle of Waterloo. In his spare time between battles, he practised building small string instruments. Having finished his military service, he asked for work at an organ factory in Goslar, where he continued to hone his skills. When Steinweg married in 1825, he gave his wife a self-built fortepiano as a wedding present. He finished his first actual grand piano in 1836 in his workshop in the family kitchen; the specimen was long exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. A crucial step in the global renown of the Steinway grand was the family's move to New York together with a great wave of immigrants. Heinrich's son Carl had visited the city previously to scout out the company's opportunities for business, and had found the environment favourable. Heinrich eventually led his family onto a vessel named Helene Sloman, which arrived in New York in late June 1850. The Steinways had to begin by learning the ways of their new homeland. The circumstances were not always in their favour, but the family had decided to prosper. Income levels were good and the school-aged boys enthusiastically absorbed the New York atmosphere. The family Anglicised their names and took on US citizenship: Steinweg became Steinway. 121 Fi n e L i f e s t y l e FROM THE KITCHEN TO GREATNESS

122 QUALITY ABOVE ALL ELSE Steinway & Sons began operating in Manhattan in 1853. During the following decades, Heinrich, now named Henry, and his sons C. F. Theodore, Charles, Henry, Jr., William and Albert made great efforts to develop the piano as an instrument. The family's dictum was a robust belief in quality, handcraft- ing, innovation and expertise. Even today, every Steinway grand piano is zealously built over the course of approximately one year. Steinway's reputation spread swiftly. Famous artists recommended the instruments to their friends and production figures grew. Wealthy families in the United States and Europe bought them for private use. To satisfy demand on the old continent, the Steinways opened a factory in Hamburg in 1880; it is still in operation. Many of the work methods used today are the ones developed by the family in the 1800s. These days, Steinway & Sons manufactures around 2500 pianos each year. The production figures of competitors such as Yamaha are tenfold.

at s t a a es S einwa nique? So, what is it that makes Steinway so unique? Why do nine out of ten concert pianists choose it as the vehicle for their musical interpretation? The same characteristic that raised the Steinway company to the forefront has kept it there ­ despite the fact that the family no longer runs the business. What we are talking about is quality. INDIVIDUALS AND FRIENDS A grand piano is reminiscent of the shape of a large wing, which is in fact the meaning of its German name, der Flügel. A Steinway grand contains around one thousand pieces for each month of the year: 12 000 in total. The wood for the frame is selected and prepared for the purpose by the world's topmost piano experts. One of the crucial steps before the work begins is achieving the correct moisture level, which is six per cent. In its instruments, Steinway has used different varieties of maple, spruce, pine, poplar, cherry, walnut, beech and mahogany, while inside the body is a sturdy castiron frame and the strings are Swedish steel. Each finished grand piano is tested in many ways. Steinway created the Banger robot, which has 88 fingers capable of striking each key on the instrument 10 000 times in 45 minutes. Steinway's largest piano, favoured by the greatest masters, is the Model D, which is 2.74 metres in length and 1.56 metres in width. The weight of this giant of sound is 450 kilogrammes. Although Steinway is known for its nearhomogenous quality, each instrument is an individual. The use of a highly qualified tuner is critical to the behaviour of the piano; an expert in this field can fulfil the pianist's wishes and add his or her personal touch to the instrument's magical sound. Therefore, the Holy Trinity of a Steinway consists of the instrument, the artist and the tuner. They form an entity that stands on a 160-year tradition, which continues to bolster the sound and reputation of the legendary piano maker around the world. We will let the musician Harry Connick, Jr. have the final word. A representative of the American crooners' tradition, Connick has said he trusts a Steinway like a good friend: "With a tone so rich, I would never be afraid of the dark. Steinway is the only and the best!" > 123 Eve oday, very S einwa ran pian s zea ously ilt ver he ou e f oximately n ear. Fi n e L i f e s t y l e

124 THE HIGHEST AUCTION PRICE PAID FOR A STEINWAY GRAND PIANO... was $1.2 million at Christie's of London in 1997. It was for an art case piano built in New York in 1887 following the artistic design of Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema and has been called "the most artistic instrument in the world". Steinway built a perfect replica of this grand piano in 2006. THE BEST PIANIST AT NO. 10 DOWNING STREET... was probably Edward Heath, Prime Minister of Great Britain in the early 1970s. He purchased a Steinway grand piano for his official residence with the Charlemagne Award money ­ £450 ­ he received from the German city of Aachen. Heath was a skilled pianist and conductor, who made several recordings. At one point he owned three Steinways at the same time.

IN 2012 THE PRICE OF A STEINWAY... varies greatly depending on the size and finish of the instrument. There is also a brisk trade in used Steinways and many investors consider them a valuable investment. A new Steinway grand costs around $50 000­100 000 in the United States. Special models are considerably more expensive. O her ele ated S einwa I ving B r i Hecto B r i Glen Goul V adimi Ho o it F an Liszt Gusta Ma ler Co e P er S rgei P o e Jo n P ilip S usa I o S ravinsk ae ... 125 Fi n e L i f e s t y l e

e S einwa Time in 1853 1857 Heinric S einweg 126 The Steinway & Sons piano factory is established in New York. The first grand piano receives the serial number 483, because Henry Steinway has already manufactured hundreds of instruments previously. Steinway receives its first patent. It concerns the mechanism of the grand piano. 1880 1889 1932 1859 1866 Steinway develops the overstrung grand piano with a cast-iron frame. It is the basis on which even the company's modern flagship, the Model D, is based. The first Steinway Hall opens in New York. It can accommodate an audience of 2000. The Hamburg factory opens. William Steinway is involved in establishing the Daimler boat factory together with co-founders Gottlieb Daimler and Wilhelm Maybach. Daimler will later go on to build cars. Steinway suspends the construction of new instruments during the Great Depression. The company's continued operation is ensured thanks to the pianos that are still in stock.

1939­1945 1953 1955 Steinway finds itself caught in crossfire during World War II. In the US, Steinway is seen as German, and in Germany as American. Steinway & Sons celebrates its 100th anniversary. Henry Z. Steinway becomes the company's Managing Director at the age of 40. He will be the last member of the family to hold a role within the company's top management. 127 1995 The Birmingham's company merges with the well-known saxophone maker, Selmer; which will soon change its name to Steinway Musical Instruments, Inc. Today, the corporation also includes Ludwig Drums and Bach Trumpets. It is listed on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol LVB, which is said to refer to Ludwig van Beethoven. 2003 2008 2011 Steinway & Sons celebrates its 150th anniversary. One of the two special anniversary models is designed by Karl Lagerfeld. His creation is called S.L.ED, which stands for Steinway Limited Edition. The former CEO and Chairman Henry Z. Steinway passes away in New York. He had an office at the Manhattan Steinway Hall until his death. Billy Joel's portrait is added to the New York Steinway Hall. All the musicians portrayed there before him have been classical pianists. Fi n e L i f e s t y l e 1972 1985 Steinway & Sons is sold to CBS. The conglomerate is known, among other things, as a successful record producer. Its instrument portfolio already includes Fender Guitars. CBS sells Steinway to Robert and John P. Birmingham. V adimi Ho o it

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