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Phantom Drophead Coupé A New World Rolls-Royce Motor Cars introduces Phantom Series II. The new generation of Phantom Drophead Coupé epitomises relaxed open-top motoring. Each hood is tailored by hand, and when raised offers a whisper-quiet intimate cabin. At the touch of a button it retracts, embracing the elements for an exhilarating ride. Contact us to experience a car with endless possibilities; a car built for today and designed for tomorrow. Fuel economy figures (l/100km): Urban 22.8 / Extra urban 10.2 / Combined 14.8. CO2 emissions: 347 (g/km). Energy efficiency category: G www.rolls-roycemotorcars.com © Copyright Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Limited 2012. The Rolls-Royce name and logo are registered trademarks. 04/04/2012 17:46

F I N E W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A W I N T E R PAGE 14 PAGE 26 FINE Event PAGE 36 FINE Tasting PAGE 70 FINE Estate PAGE 86 8 FINE Celebrity FINE History PAGE 92 FINE Gastronomy FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 2 0 1 2

W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A W I N T E R 2 0 1 2 FINE Contents F I N E PAGE 108 FINE Science 11 Fineeditorial 14 FineCeleBritY Three Centuries of Port by Niepoort 34 FinenUiKKi A Well-known Secret 36 FinetaStinG Century Tasting 1900–1999 – Part 1 68 FineKaPon Duelling Haut-Brions 70 FineeState Château Cheval Blanc 86 FineHiStorY FINE Cellar Master An Englishman in Chianti 26 FineeVent PAGE 114 FINEst Greetings The Story of Champagne – Part 3 90 FineJUHlin A Champagne Extravaganza in New York City 92 FineGaStronoMY Champagne – The Best Accompaniment to Food 108 FineSCienCe The Blending Puzzle 114 FineCellar The Tenth Man MaSter 124 FinelarSSon 126 FinedeSiGn PAGE 126 Eat and Drink in Pink Design with a Perfumed Touch FINE Design FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 9

WRITERS FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA VOLUME 2 ISSUE 4 Q4 2012 Editor Rajiv Singhal Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited Chief Executive Ritu Singhal Director of Editorial Pekka Nuikki Contributors Christian Goldenboog John Kapon Distribution Amrita Bhageria Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul Photographs Akshat Arora Administration Avneet Kaur Editorial & Business Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in Subscriber Information T: +91 11 23359874-75 RNI no. DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098 Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306 India. All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. 10 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Rajiv Singhal Rajiv Singhal is an entrepreneur who pioneered activities in the luxury sector in India. He studied Economics at Yale, and since then has been simplifying access to the Indian market for international clients. Among other path breaking initiatives, he helped set up the market for wine in India over the last 16 years. Mr. Singhal is the Ambassador of Champagne to India, who loves to challenge himself. Pekka Nuikki Pekka Nuikki is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He is the founder of FINE Magazines and has published over twenty acclaimed international wine and art books. He is an award winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and has worked as creative director of an advertising agency group. Mr. Nuikki is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Juha Lihtonen Juha Lihtonen is the manyfold Finnish sommelier champion and was the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. He is the quintessential Finn, but loves to chat - which earns him a reputation with his 4 a.m. friends. He has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on radio and the wine buyer of a major cruise line. Besides his day jobs, Mr. Lihtonen studies for the Master of Wine qualification. Meri Kukkavaara Meri Kukkavaara is an interior designer by trade, who has a wide range of interests in the field of art, as well as education. Since completing her art studies in Florence, Italy she has worked extensively with art exhibitions and antiques, while occasionally contributing to art exhibitions as a free artist. She is also an art therapist, with more than ten years experience. Ms. Kukkavaara is a keen student of life and in her free time enjoys taking up courses such as drumming, Indian cooking and tango. Essi Avellan MW Essi Avellan is the first Master of Wine from Finland, second ever from the Nordic countries. She was awarded the Lily Bollinger Medal as the best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award as the best overall student in the Master of Wine examination. Ms. Avellan judges at several wine competitions and was inducted as Dame Chevalier into the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Petri Nevalainen Petri Nevalainen has over 30 years’ experience in the media, of which he worked almost ten years for BBC World Service in London, and also for radio and internet. Mr. Nevalainen is a Master of Science who has published 15 different non-fiction books, and is very interested in music and food. Uwe Kauss Uwe Kauss is a journalist who feels at home in the wine cellars of the world. Whether he explores the “world’s largest floating wine cellar” on board Queen Mary 2 or if he goes into the magnum-heaven of Adi Werner in St. Christoph, he enjoys conveying his delight to his readership. Mr. Kauss writes for the specialised online portal, Wein-Plus and for children – clever non-fiction books that are secretly read by the parents as well. Jukka Sinivirta Jukka Sinivirta is a very well-known Champagne book writer in his homeland, Finland. The book he co-authored with his wife was awarded the world’s best cheese book 2005 by Gourmand International. A maths and physics teacher, Mr. Sinivirta has been a passionate wine lover for 40 years and spends most of his vacations travelling around the wine regions and visiting wineries in Europe. Richard Juhlin Richard Juhlin is a champagne specialist who holds the world record for the number of champagnes tasted. Up until today 6946 champagnes have passed his lips. He has also written several books - 2000 Champagnes (1999), 3000 Champagnes (2002), 4000 Champagnes (2004) and the Richard Juhlin Champagne Guide (2008). In 2002, Mr. Juhlin received the Merite de Agricole from the French Ministry of Agriculture. Martin Williams MW Martin Williams is a Yarra Valley-based winemaker and consultant. He studied Chemistry and Biochemistry at the University of Sydney before embarking on an extended journey into the world of wine. He became a Master of Wine in 1999, and won CIVC’s Vin de Champagne Award in 2008. Mr. Williams continues his wine consultancy, education and writing, while exploring his passions for flying, motorcycle touring and the Australian landscape. Andreas Larsson Andreas Larsson was the best sommelier of the world in 2007, the best sommelier in Europe in 2004 and the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2002. He is a wine writer and educator, a member of the Grand Jury European and he holds many distinguished wine juror positions around the world. Mr. Larsson has worked as a sommelier in the best restaurants in Stockholm.

I grew up as part of a traditional baniya family from the the majesty of the sun. The cold wave that swept walled city of Delhi, where personalities were developed through the capital city this winter was harsh, the around the values of generosity, respect, humility and freezing temperatures chilled to the bone and numbed honour. Elders reserved utmost importance for the the senses. The sunshine in my glass was the toffee- commitment to the spoken word, “whatever is said is banana-apricot cuvée prestige of a two decades old set to stone – there is no recall button”, and even vintage originating in a legendary Reims cellar, enforced this as the mantra for business! In this age, interspersed with liberal servings of the basil-ginger- adhering to this heirloom makes for tough going when cardamom brewed cuppa. The winter solstice did not reneging is not taboo for the gen next – but we strive to bring the world to an end as the Mayans had predicted… FINE Editorial T he city lay in siege and dark skies overshadowed meet our ancestors’ expectations. I live to tell the tale of some exemplary wine tastings. 2012 was a good year for India – deft management of Rati and Dhruv Sawhney’s not-to-be-missed-for- political alliances (or lack of it) quelled opposition to anything invite was the highlight. A formidable line up corrective fiscal discipline and bold initiatives for of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echézeaux, inclusive growth that put the locomotive back on the Romanée Saint Vivant, Richebourg and La Tâche (1997 reform track. Foreign investment can now accelerate the and 1998 vintage), from their private cellars was much needed development of modern retail and its specially air lifted to Delhi under special escort and infra-structure. Deep Throat is optimistic about wines woven into dinner at Taj Mahal New Delhi. MasterChef – the landmark agreement is still a possibility! I am Australia “rockstars”, George Calombaris and Gary reminded by fellow economist and Prime Minister Mehigan, were hosted for dinner at Leela Palace New Dr. Manmohan Singh, “It is probably true that we are Delhi by the possessed wine aficionado Rajiv Kehr, who a slow moving elephant but it is equally true that with chose to tease with contrasting pinots of Nuits Saint each step forward we leave behind a deep imprint”. Georges 2007 (from the artisanal Domaine Robert Chevillon) and Martinborough 2008 (from the nava vaYa- kI SauBa kamanaae^Ñ M benchmark Ata Rangi), alongside the d’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz and Henschke’s Tilly’s Vineyard. Acker Merrall & Condit, one of America’s oldest and finest wine shops (depuis 1820) came calling. Jennie Tucker stepped in for the third generation owner, John Kapon, and shared mature vintages of the Australian icon Penfolds Grange from the eighties and nineties with Indian wine collectors at Taj Mahal New Delhi. Pio Boffa, the fourth generation of Pio Cesare (depuis 1881), brought out a lovely selection of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and other great wines of the Piemonte at the Trident Gurgaon, and maybe, in reverence to his founding ancestors’ philosophy that focussed on the quality of the wine, pulled back a bottle whose fruit had been overpowered by travel fatigue. Rajiv Singhal Rajiv Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 11

14 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Celebrity Text: Petri Nevalainen Photography: Pekka Nuikki & Jaime Travezan H aving lost his heart to Italy, Sting had resigned himself to the fact that his family was unable to find a suitable home in the country. They had gone on one fruitless exploration after another and there seemed to be no hope. Then Trudie Styler told her husband of a new house up for sale close to the medieval town of Figline Valdarno in Tuscany. To their amazement, Trudie and Sting walked along a cypresslined avenue right up to the saffron-yellow house of their dreams. They found a home for their family and obtained a farm into the bargain. Its main produce is packed into tens of thousands of bottles each year. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 15

Film producer, actress Trudie Styler and her husband, world-renowned musician Sting, have been producing organic red wine in the Chianti wine region of Tuscany, Italy, since 2007. They are always looking to improve the quality of their wines. When FINE visited Il Palagio for this exclusive interview, the atmosphere at the estate was expectant. The closing lunch of the Divino Tuscany festival, which celebrates winemaking excellence, good music and dear friends, was to be served under marquees on Trudie and Sting’s property. With hundreds of guests about to arrive, the host couple still had time to recall the early days of their wineproducing career and the events leading up to their decision to start growing wine. The Red House is a two-story building situated near the main villa, with a centuriesold door leading to a cosy downstairs hall. A heavy table holds diverse wine-related books, music magazines and novels. There is a selection of Il Palagio Chianti wines, as well as honey and olive oil. These are all products from the estate. Not to forget Sting’s music, which in its own way is also a “product” of Il Palagio. It appears to permeate the air somehow. This is where FINE met Trudie and Sting. Learning about wine At Il Palagio, everything which is intended for sale is grown on site, and ensuring proper harvests requires a lot of hard work combined with a pinch of good luck. Neither of the hosts were originally wine people. Trudie grew up in rural Worcestershire, while Sting (originally named Gordon Sumner) is originally from the northern metropolis of Newcastle. Neither family particularly favoured wine while they were growing up. 16 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA At Trudie’s house, traditional British drinks were enjoyed on holidays. “I think the closest my parents ever got to drinking wine was a glass of sherry at Christmas. I became interested in wines when travelling around southern Europe before the age of twenty. I can’t drink red wine because I am allergic to it, but I do enjoy whites and rosés,” Trudie says. “I became interested in wines when travelling around southern Europe before the age of twenty. I can’t drink red wine because I am allergic to it, but I do enjoy whites and rosés.” Her husband, meanwhile, acquired his drinking customs from the cradle of British male culture: the pub. Wines were not traditional favourites in his hometown. “Newcastle is an old ale region. When I started touring the world with The Police in the late 1970s, quality wines were always placed in my dressing rooms. Not knowing anything about wines, I used to give them to my roadies. Gradually my bass technician Danny Quatrochi grew as a wine expert and collected quite a good wine cellar from the wines I had given him. With his help I started learning about wines in my thirties,” Sting recalls. SpirituaL home in itaLy Trudie and Sting ended up as owners of an Italian wine estate mostly by accident. They already had strong personal links to the Mediterranean country, after their daughter Coco was born there in 1990 while Sting was creating his first album of the decade, The Soul Cages. The daughter’s arrival and the father’s

FINE Celebrity FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 17

“We wanted to find a home for our family in this country. Trudie and I had each separately fallen in love at first sight with Italy, but it took us about ten years to find the right place.” 18 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

“We do our best to produce our wines as naturally as possible. We are not yet officially registered as an organic producer, but we are continuously working on creating a better wine. My father has been a role model for me in farming. You have to start by cleaning the land, and continue doing that all the time. When the soil is healthy it makes everything else possible.” creative effort indelibly rooted the family in the Italian soil. “It was a happy time which is forever in our memory. A lot of the themes for The Soul Cages came from the life and death of Sting’s parents. Meanwhile, the birth of our daughter symbolised the continuation of life and made us feel we had reached our spiritual home,” Trudie says. In Britain they moved to the Lake House estate in Wiltshire in 1992. In their hearts, however, they also hoped to establish a permanent base in Italy. “We wanted to find a home for our family in this country. Trudie and I had each separately fallen in love at first sight with Italy, but it took us about ten years to find the right place. We went to see several houses, but none of them suited us for one reason or another. I was starting to lose hope and felt I’d had enough of it. Trudie mentioned one more place that had just come up for sale close to Figline Valdarno in the Florence region, though,” Sting says. He protested for a while before agreeing to go once more on the house hunt. He feared it might be pointless. Walking along the cypress-lined avenue, Sting and Trudie were suddenly faced with the yellow main building at Il Palagio. They experienced its irresistible charm and a feeling of life having been lived there. FINE Celebrity “We immediately knew we had found our home. We settled on the deal that same day.” According to Trudie, the house had not really been on the market before, so they had no clear preconception of what Il Palagio was actually like. “Our dream house existed in our minds, but would we be able to find it in real life? Arriving here, we met Estate Manager Paolo Rossi, who was born at Il Palagio. He took us around the estate; we saw the lakes and explored the house with its humanly sized rooms. It felt like home,” she says. the Duke anD hiS wine The Il Palagio estate is 300 hectares in size. In addition to the villa it has outbuildings for wine production, the vineyards themselves, olive groves, a forested area with lakes and, naturally, a recording studio for Sting. The home has also been used for tour rehearsals with his solo band and The Police, who in 2007 reunited for a couple of years for a world tour. At Il Palagio Trudie can concentrate on her film production work and her duties in the Rainforest Foundation, which the couple founded together, and in UNICEF, for which Trudie has raised millions of dollars as a Goodwill Ambassador. They became farmers and wine-producers thanks to the traditions of the region and the history of the estate, where wine had been grown for a long time. “Running a farm was not at the forefront of our minds when we found Il Palagio; it came with the house. I was served wine by the Duke of San Clemente, who sold us the estate, and it was delicious. I swam in the lake, I enjoyed the olive grove and, above all, I loved the house. We recruited the people who were at Il Palagio when we arrived. Paolo and his sister stayed in the house. All this would have been impossible to achieve without them. They knew the history of the place and the necessary local people, so they have been priceless to us,” Sting says emphatically. The family moved into the house in 1997. After living there for a couple of years, Sting asked his estate manager why the wine served by the duke had been better than that which was being produced by the estate. It turned out that the duke’s wine had been French. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 19

The history Il Palagio has always been farmed. In the late 1700s the Martelli family purchased the property and as their wealth grew, so did the estate. In 1819 they sold to the Countess Carlotta Barbolani of Montauto, the widow of the Duke of San Clemente and it remained in this family’s hands for some 150 years. At the beginning of the twentieth century Duke Simone Vincenzo Velluti Zati di San Clemente commissioned several new buildings including a grain store, oil mill and wine production area. Soon afterwards, Trudie and Sting began to plan how to improve the quality of the estate’s wines. “It was all thanks to Trudie’s energy. She suggested delving more closely into wine production and investing in it. We would also need to consult winemaking experts. We thought perhaps eventually we might be able to send the duke some of our wine as thanks,” Sting laughs. And so they did. oLD anD new The estate did not give up all of its old wine customs, however. Sting and Trudie wanted to keep some of the old style but combine it with new ideas. Growing the wine organically was one of these ideas. Trudie explains that taking on organic farming practices forms a part of a larger process related to biodynamic agriculture. “We do our best to produce our wines as naturally as possible. We are not yet officially registered as an organic producer, but we are continuously working on creating a better wine. My father has been a role model for me in farming. You have to start by cleaning the land, and continue doing that all the time. When the soil is healthy it makes everything else possible,” Trudie says. The owners of Il Palagio say that they are constantly learning more about wine production from real professionals in the field. They admit having been on the receiving end of some doubts and criticism for only making it in the business due to their celebrity. 20 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA “I see where they are coming from, but the truth is that we are doing this together with genuine experts. The bottom line is the taste and quality of the wine,” Trudie says. One of their advisors is the internationally renowned organic winemaker Alan York, who is especially known for his contributions to the Californian producer Benziger. Il Palagio’s oenologist is Paolo Caciorgna. “This year, crops have been affected by the weather. It rained a lot in the spring. Still, we believe that we can create better and better quality every year. The soil is in much better shape now then when we started this new production phase a few years ago,” he says. Sting feels that organic wine pro- “This year, crops have been affected by the duction is a good weather. It rained a lot in the spring. Still, choice of direction, we believe that we can create better and because Il Palagio is not able to compete better quality every year. The soil is in much with non-organical- better shape now then when we started this ly farmed products coming from the new production phase a few years ago.” world’s biggest wine districts. Their production volumes and marketing machines are too large. “We decided to make a wine that is nongeneric, and typical only of us. We wanted people to be able to enjoy characteristic Il Palagio wine. I don’t think our wines taste the same as other producers’ wines. We can only compete in the wine world by having products with their own fingerprint,” Sting explains.

FINE Celebrity In Sting’s view, most non-organic wines are quite homogeneous, with very similar tastes and characters. He compares wines to music. “Anyone can compose a song. For a star to be born you need originality, for your song or performance to be instantly recognisable – your voice, your sound, your rendering should be completely unique. We want to create a star in the wine world which is not mass-produced but completely unique.” “Sometimes a song may be written in a minute, but there is a lot of work that has gone into it beforehand. Speaking of creativity, I like to quote golfer Arnold Palmer, who said ‘The more I practice, the luckier I get’.” progreSS through coLLaboration Il Palagio works together with other wineries in Tuscany in order to keep abreast of the times and trends in wine production. None of these wineries are experts on each detail of the process, so working together they can achieve better results. Comparing experiences and sharing new ideas is important for all. Some of Sting and Trudie’s Italian musician friends are also in wine. “Andrea Bocelli and Zucchero at least are in the business. Of course we compare our three reD wineS Most of the grapes grown at Il Palagio are of the Sangiovese variety, but there are also Canaiolo, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes here. All in all, Il Palagio will produce around 30,000 bottles in 2012, consisting of three different wines: Sister Moon (10,000 bottles), When We Dance (5,000 bottles) and Casino delle vie (13,00015,000 bottles). The first two are named after songs by Sting. The couple has a clear distribution of duties when it comes to winemaking. “I drink it and appreciate it,” Sting hastens to say with a smile. Before him is a glass of When We Dance. “I work on diverse production principles, methods and all the stages of operation at l Palagio. I discuss things with Paolo and the others and I want to be a part of the team. I like that,” Trudie says. At the estate, Trudie and Sting came to realise that building an irrigation system is one of the most challenging things, requiring both expertise and money. Watering plays an important role together with the other ways to look after the soil. According to Estate Manager Paolo Rossi, vines yield for around 25 years. “They have to be watered correctly from the very start. Otherwise their production as a whole may be compromised,” he says. “I work on diverse production principles, methods and all the stages of operation at Il Palagio. I discuss things with Paolo and the others and I want to be a part of the team. I like that,” Trudie says. wines, and naturally ours is the best,” Sting quips, accompanied by amused laughter from Trudie. In future, work will be done at Il Palagio to investigate growth opportunities and recognise some of the challenges in the sector. Il Palagio wines can currently be bought in the United States, China and many European countries: Italy, as well as the UK, Belgium, Luxembourg and Poland, among others. Negotiations concerning new markets are under way. “My band was recently invited for dinner in Poland. The host served all of our wines with a fine meal. Also in Las Vegas we were served Sister Moon at 250 dollars a bottle. I asked if the sommelier could bring us something cheaper,” Sting chuckles. FINE tells Sting and Trudie that the hotel close to their estate is also sold out of Il Palagio wines. Trudie seizes the opportunity with a smile, asking Paolo to call them and ask if they need more wine. As his all-time favourite wine, Sting cites Pétrus. “I have always liked it. Trudie has bought it for my birthdays and it is delicious. I have also received some wine training at a cellar at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. If I order wine at a restaurant, I usually go for Brunello.” One of Trudie’s favourite white wines played an important role on the couple’s big day. “At our wedding in 1992 we served Antinori’s Cervario, which was delightful.” Lunchtime approaches at Il Palagio. After a photography session Sting and Trudie step out with style and ease to greet their friends and guests. The estate has been producing excellent wines and wonderful music, and will continue to do so in the years to come. That’s not a bad combination. > Sting’s wine and other Palagio products are available through www.palagioproducts.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 21

STING AND TRUDIE TIMELINE DURING THE IL PALAGIO YEARS 1997 The couple buys the Il Palagio estate in Tuscany. 1998 The film Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels, directed by future ‘Mr Madonna’, Guy Ritchie, is released by Trudie’s production company, Xingu Films. It meets with great success. 1999 Sting releases the album Brand New Day. 93p 2002 Trudie produces and co-directs with John-Paul Davidson the documentary The Sweatbox, featuring John Goodman, Tom Jones, Eartha Kitt and Sting. 2003 Sting completes his next album, Sacred Love. 2006 Release of Songs From The Labyrinth, combining 16th century lute music with Sting’s vocals. 2007 First vintage of Il Palagio wine. Sister Moon 2008 Region: Producer: Average market price: Tasting times: Appearance: Nose: IGT Toscana, Italy Tenuta Il Palagio €41 The il Palagio Oil 4 times The olive trees which grace Il Palagio’s landscape date back for many hundreds of years and have been sensitively restored to full productivity. This is largely thanks to the care and dedication of Estate Manager Paolo Rossi, who insists that the orchards are not irrigated, a system which is labour-intensive but which greatly improves quality. Deep, ruby red Intense, rich, ripe black fruits, plums, earthy, gently toasty, brambles, licorice Taste: Harmonious, silky texture, toasty finish with some licorice Aftertaste: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Best to drink: Decanting time: Glass time: Food pairing: Long, joyful, flirty, rich Smooth as Sister Moon Yes Paolo sites his trees right at the limit of the optimal growing area at 360 feet above sea level. This is the best situation to escape the natural pest of the olive fly. Finally, the fruits are collected by hand, as they have been for centuries, ensuring only the very finest are selected. The oil is then cold pressed, and the resulting Extra Virgin first pressed oil is as pure as you can imagine. 2020–2025 6 hours 3 hours Roasted wild boar with roasted rosemary flavoured potatos Fake factor: None Or try this: To enjoy the song alone Inside information: Named after Sting’s song “Sister Moon” this was the first IGT Toscano wine produced at Il Palagio. With an alcohol content of 14.9% it is aged for 24 months in new French barriques. Two vintages are available, 2007 and 2008. Final verdict: The Sister Moon will be my guide 90p Casino delle Vie 2009 Region: Producer: Average market price: Tasting times: Appearance: Nose: IGT Toscana, Italy Tenuta Il Palagio €21 4 times Medium intense, cherry red Pronounced, toasty, oaky, spicy, floral, ripe black fruit, dark cacao Taste: Medium-bodied, rich, gentle tannins, vivid acidity, refined, bit oaky Aftertaste: Oaky, spicy, vivid In a nutshell: Pimped by oak Buy or not: Yes Best to drink: Now–2020 Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 2 hours Food pairing: Grilled Venison with morrel sauce Fake factor: None Or try this: Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2009 Inside information: This wine is named after a property on the estate and when translated it means “little house by the roads”. Colloquially, this can also mean “the muddling of the ways” suggesting philosophical musings on the paths we all take in life. Final verdict: Knocks you down if you are an old school Chianti-lover 2009 If on a Winter’s Night…, featuring a very different style of music, reaches no. 6 on the Billboard chart. 2009 Production of Il Palagio’s first wine, Sister Moon. 2010 Symphonicities is released with symphonic arrangements of Sting’s most celebrated songs. 2011 Sting celebrates his sixtieth birthday with festivities including an all-star benefit concert in New York. 22 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 91p When We Dance Chianti 2010 Region: Producer: Average market price: Tasting times: Appearance: Nose: Taste: Chianti Classico, Italy Tenuta Il Palagio €15 4 times Moderately intense, ruby red Pronounced, floral, dark cherries, toasty Medium-bodied, vivid acidity, gentle tannins, toasty and dry spicy, wild strawberries Aftertaste: Full-bodied, intense, rich, velvety, fleshy, lovely toasty, energetic, round In a nutshell: Buy or not: Best to drink: Decanting time: Glass time: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Wine like jive Yes 2018–2022 3 hours 2 hours Rabbit ragoût with creamy truffle pasta None Carnasciale Rosso 2009, Podere Il Carnasciale Inside information: The most recent addition to the Il Palagio cellar is this every day chianti, again named after a Sting song When We Dance. With 95% Sangiovese blended with Canaiolo and Colorino grapes, the alcohol content is 13%. Final verdict: A modern chianti wine with edge Sept/Oct 2012 Il Palagio stages its first three day cookery classes with brilliant chef Alba di Papi showing select groups of eight how to make the most delicious traditional dishes from Tuscany’s finest harvested produce during their stay at Palagio. 2012 The free iPad app STING 25, a first-of-its-kind ‘appumentary’ exploring Sting’s enduring solo career, is awarded the prestigious Cannes Lion for Best Design/Aesthetic at the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity.

some of the world’s most extraordinary chefs are now among Blackberry Farm’s most anticipated guests. Situated in the Tennessee foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, Blackberry Farm’s Relais & Châteaux property — recently named #1 for Service in the Continental U.S. and Canada by Travel + Leisure — is celebrating its 35th anniversary by bringing back some of their favorite guest chefs, vintners and artists for this year’s schedule of unforgettable events. From its 180,000-bottle Grand Award-winning wine selection and renowned cuisine to countless opportunities for wellness and adventure across 4,200 protected acres, Blackberry Farm is home to enriching, one-of-a-kind experiences all year long. To reserve your place at one of our special events, contact our Reservations Team, or visit us online for a complete calendar of upcoming events. Walland, Tennessee 00.1.865.984.8166 blackberryfarm.com joi

Sean Brock Join Chefs Mike Lata, Vivian Howard, and Tyler Brown along with Vintner Jamey Whetstone and Newest Fellow, Chef Sean Brock for the 2013 Taste of the South Jan uary 10-13, 2013 Michael Accarrino joins us along with Vintner Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Family Vineyards Jan uary 20-23, 2013 Wine in the Fly join Blackberry Farm Chef Jospeh Lenn, along with vintners Jim Barbour of Barbour Wines, Justin Stephens of DR Stephens Wines and Brian Lamborn of Lamborn Family Vineyards a pril 7-10, 2013 Hospice du Rhone join Vintners Yves Gangloff, Vieus Donjon, Alban Vineyards, Epoch Wines and Herman Story Wines M ay 2-5, 2013

Three Centuries of Port by Niepoort at The Leela Palace, New Delhi Text: RAjIv SINGHAL Photographs: AkSHAT ARoRA 26 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Event G astronomic pleasures are mostly created as fleeting works of art, and not many epicurean delights survive through centuries. Wine is an exception, and ports – or at least the very best ones – are designed to delay gratification over many decades. Yet, the opportunity to taste history created 150 years ago is rare. A tasting of vintage ports from three centuries is unheard of – at least in India. However, FINE could think of no better way to introduce the highly esteemed Portuguese wine producer and FINE Life Award winner, Dirk Niepoort and his ports to some of our very special guests in India. The majestic Le Cirque Boardroom on the 10th floor of the Lee- in India, Filipe de Alcobia de Moraes Sarmento Honrado, and la Palace, New Delhi was the venue chosen for this never-before- were meticulously checking and preparing the delicate bottles. done-in-India tasting, and Aishwarya Nair, the Corporate Food Under the watchful eye of his father, Marco began to gently & Wine Consultant at The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts was tap on the corks. "The corks are old and extremely fragile, so the host. The beautiful set-up, with its panoramic view over the we need to loosen them inside the bottle where they have rest- Delhi skyline, set the tone for a spectacular evening. ed for all these years. only then we will succeed in extracting Dirk Niepoort, a fifth generation wine producer in the Douro the corks intact", Dirk explained when he caught my quizzing region, had delved into his family's treasured cellars to pick out glance, before going on to say, "when the bottle carries your twelve special gems, which ranged from the 21st century all the name on it, you need to make absolutely sure that the wine is way back to the mid 19th century, to provide those present with well handled". an exceptional opportunity to sample a unique range of historic wines with exceptional provenance. Dirk guided the decantation that helped Marco to get rid of the sediment inside the bottles, and there was a lot of it that had accumulated over the THE PREPARATIoN oF THE DELIGHTS centuries that the bottles In the afternoon, I found bassador in India, His Ex- Dirk and his 16-year-old cellency jorge Roza de ol- son, Eduardo Marco van iveira, exclaimed that the der Niepoort, at The Lee- bottles were very well-rest- la Palace's opulent Library ed after the long arduous Bar. The duo had taken journey that the famed Por- charge of the kings' ran- tuguese explorer vasco da som from the Counsellor Gama had taken only a few at the Embassy of Portugal centuries before! had rested in the Niepoort cellars! The Portuguese Am- Dirk and Marco Niepoort FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 27

THE PoRT FLIGHTS THAT SPANNED THE CENTURIES The diligent preparations out of the way, and the assurance that every bottle seemed to be in good shape, it was show time at Le Cirque's Boardroom. The exploration of the selected gems from Niepoort family’s treasure began with the youngest of the wines, and the Niepoort vintage Port 2005 charmed everyone with its astonishingly harmonious and seductive style. It showed such voluptuous and elegantly smooth texture, though it was still in its early stages of development. The very modest Dirk, who was animatedly guiding us through each landmark of this carefully curated journey through history, revealed that this port was as close to perfection as he has ever reached in his winemaking career. The wine stood poured by the dexterous wine troops of our glasses, one of the last drops of this his- up very well next to the special line-up of the Leela, marshalled by their sommelier, torical wine. We have practically no more the older ports made by the previous gen- Manu Manikandan. All the wines were in left of it in our cellar. I wanted, however, erations of the Niepoort's and their cellar pristine condition. It was impressive to see to bring it along to emphasize Niepoort's masters from the Nogueira family. how well the ports from the lesser vintag- long winemaking history and raise a toast es stood out. As the tasting moved towards to you for welcoming me to India!" vintage on vintage, the ports were the older vintages, everyone was gradual- History was written at this moment, ly amazed by how consistent, vibrant and as with this toast, the few wise men (and lively the ports were. Each of ports was so women) had shared the oldest vintage characteristically different, and we mar- wine known to have been tasted in India. veled at each one for their strength. All of The previous record was held by the ship- them were wonderfully balanced, complex wrecked Heidsieck & Co Monopole Goût and sweetly delicious, having weathered the Américain Champagne from 1907, which passage of time with dignity, or were show- had been presented to another select group ing the promise they held for the future. when we had launched the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. THE PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE as one that witnessed perhaps one of the 11 ports later, as the large table was cov- greatest tastings ever held in India, it made ered by neatly tagged glasses – mostly emp- the very lucky participants understand just ty, it was time for the rarest treasure of how long good ports can last; and that the vertical – the impeccable vintage Port when it comes to Niepoort, the ports seem from 1863. Dirk raised a toast, "we have in to be more or less immortal. > This evening will go down in annals With inputs from juha Lihtonen and Madhumita Bhattacharya 28 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Niepoort is known for its vast range of ports, from refreshing whites and rubys to round highly esteemed vintage ports. However, when it comes to Niepoort’s port styles, there is at least one style superior to other producers: Colheita ports. These ports derive from a single vintage and, according to law, they need to be aged for at least seven years in barrels before bottling. These ports have to carry both the vintage and bottling year marking on their labels. Colheitas are not commonly available on the market, and the explanation for this shortage is financial. For instance, the vintage ports are bottled after two years of barrel ageing, after which they can be released on the market; more accessible late-bottled vintage ports (LBvs) can be released on the market earlier than Colheitas, after four years of barrel ageing. Thanks to five generation of visionaries, namely the leading family members of Niepoort, there is a substantial amount of Colheitas resting along with the vintage ports in the Niepoort cellars. These Colheitas are released when Dirk Niepoort considers them to be ready to drink. The ageing potential of Niepoort Colheitas are immensely long and some are still superb after several decades. Apart from Colheitas, Niepoort is also known for its peculiar port style named Garrafeira Port. This is an exclusive port style created by Dirk’s grandfather in 1931. He decided to use the old large glass bottles, called demi-johns, to restore the port instead of barrels. The four thousand demi-johns had been acquired by Dirk’s great grandfather from a glass factory in Germany during the late 19th century. These eight-to-eleven-litre dark-green bottles create a less oxidative environment for the port during the ageing process, and this can be detected in Garrafeira Ports’ aromas, which are more smoky and fragrant than normal vintage port or Colheita. FINE Event The special NiepoorT porT sTyles Niepoort's demi-john cellar FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 29

Niepoort Rare & Fine Port Tasting 1863–2005 2005 Niepoort Vintage Port 94p 1947 Niepoort Colheita Port 96p 1977 Niepoort Garrafeira Port 95p 1937 Niepoort Colheita Port 90p 1976 Niepoort Colheita Port 1970 Niepoort Vintage Port Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €70 4 times, last in 11/2012 Apperance: Deep, opaque, purple Nose: Intense, jammy, spicy, floral, licorice Taste: Full-bodied, sweet, silky tannins, rich, jammy,spicy, brambles, dark chocolate, harmonious Aftertaste: Long, smooth, silky, concentrated In a nutshell: A perfect port? Buy or not?: Absolutely yes! Best to drink: Now to 2040 Decant time: 10 hours Glass time: 6 hours Food pairing: Mature Gorgonzola cheese Fake factor: None Or try this: Cashmere gloves Inside Information: Dirk Niepoort considers this port as the most perfect wine he has ever made. The grapes for this wine derive from 60 to 100 year-old vines. The season in 2005 was very hot and humid. The weather yielded small and concentrated grapes. The wine has 97.9 grams residual sugar per litre. Final Verdict: Such a sophisticated port 30 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 94p 1900 Niepoort Colheita Port 96p 1952 Niepoort Vintage Port Niepoort Vintage Port 2005 95p 1912 Niepoort Colheita Port 98p 1957 Niepoort Colheita Port 94p 92p 1917 Niepoort Colheita Port 92p 92p 1863 Niepoort Colheita Port 93p 95p Niepoort Garrafeira Port 1977 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €295 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Light, brick red Nose: Complex, nutty, black cherries, walnuts Taste: Medium-bodied, sweet, silky, delicate, fresh Aftertaste: Long, harmonious, lingering, vivid In a nutshell: A liquid silk Buy or not?: What are you waiting for? Go and get it! Best to drink: Now to 2030 Decant time: 2 hours Glass time: 4 hours Food pairing: Pecorino Sardo Fake factor: None Or try this: Gould Campbell 1977 Inside Information: The vintage turned out tp be great although the fruit set in the spring was uneven and the yields were lower than usual. The grapes developed slowly due to the very mild weather in summer. Finally the heat wave took place in September and the grapes ripened rapidly. The wine was aged 3 to 6 years in casks and around 20 years in demijohns. The wine has 109.7 grams residual sugar per litre. Final Verdict: A port like a good red Grand Cru Burgundy 92p Niepoort Colheita Port 1976 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €153 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Pale, bright, tawny Nose: Closed, spirity, spicy – cardemom, cinnamon, walnuts Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, fresh, vivid, nutty, chocolate Aftertaste: Long, complex, sweet spices, hazelnuts In a nutshell: Like a sweet chocolate dessert Buy or not?: Yes Best to drink: Now to 2020 Decant time: 2 hours Glass time: 3 hours Food pairing: Dessert itself Fake factor: None Or try this: Chocolate fondant Inside Information: A poor year was dominated by a long drought period and heavy rainfall during the harvest. Final Verdict: Surprisingly fresh and energetic port for lesser vintage

Niepoort Vintage Port 1970 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. 94p Niepoort Colheita Port 1957 Region: Producer: Average Market Price: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €327 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Pale, tawny Nose: Open, pronounced, spicy, toasty, nutty, cinnamon Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, rich, intense, lovely, broad, complex, elegant Aftertaste: Long, viscous, intensely fruity, refined In a nutshell: Wine to bite, so fleshy it is Buy or not?: Yes Best to drink: Now to 2025 Decant time: 1 hour Glass time: 3 hours Food pairing: Slice of Stilton €139 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Medium-intense, bright, ruby red Nose: Concentrated, reserved, complex, spicy, floral, wild strawberries Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, intense, rich, spicy, preserved cherries Aftertaste: Long, warming, silky, mineral, cherries In a nutshell: Delicate and wellstructured athlete wine Buy or not?: Run for it! Best to drink: 2020–2025 Decant time: 4 hours Glass time: 6 hours Food pairing: Aged cheddar Fake factor: None Or try this: Graham's Vintage Port 1970 Inside Information: The vintage of the decade. Final Verdict: Wine on its 40s but seems like on its 20s Fake factor: None Or try this: A juicy steak Inside Information: This wine was aged in barrels until 1977 before it was bottled. Final Verdict: Wow, what a wine from a lesser vintage that only few producers cleared 96p 90p Niepoort Colheita Port 1947 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. NA 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Medium-intense, bright, tawny Nose: Intense, complex, perfumy, floral, prunes Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, concentrated, firm tannins, elegant, vivid Aftertaste: Long, lingering, silky, smooth, candied orange peel In a nutshell: Concentration par excellence Buy or not?: Look at the points – why not? Best to drink: Now to 2020 Decant time: 1 hour Glass time: 2 hours Food pairing: Just meditate with this Fake factor: None Or try this: Cheval Blanc 1947 Inside Information: This rested in barrels for 27 years before being bottled. Final Verdict: An expressive wine with full of life Niepoort Colheita 1937 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €571 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Pale, brick red Nose: Pronounced, nutty, woody, spicy, cinnamon, hints of volatility Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, vivid, fresh, viscous, rich, volatile Aftertaste: Moderately long, acidic, spicy In a nutshell: An elder but still rocking Buy or not?: Why not? Best to drink: Now Decant time: 30 minutes Glass time: 1 hour Food pairing: Aged Manchego Fake factor: None Or try this: Dance jive on high heals when you are 75 years old Inside Information: The wine was bottled in 1984. Final Verdict: A rustic wine with touch of finesse 92p Niepoort Vintage Port 1952 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. NA 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Pale, brick red Nose: Reserved, nutty, spicy, prunes Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, concentrated, high in alcohol, spicy Aftertaste: Long, fresh, warming, concentrated, drying In a nutshell: Big but elegant Buy or not?: Not a bad buy Best to drink: Now to 2020 Decant time: 2 hours Glass time: 3 hours Food pairing: Instead of food, use to warm up your body Fake factor: None Or try this: Finnish sauna Inside Information: A poor year Final Verdict: Port with power 92p FINE Event 95p Niepoort Colheita Port 1917 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. NA 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Intense, tawny Nose: Vivid, opulent, nutty, gently spicy Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, delicately, rich Aftertaste: Long, warming, dried fruits, pralines In a nutshell: Attractive and elegant Buy or not?: Yes, buy Best to drink: Now to 2025 Decant time: 30 minutes Glass time: 2 hours Food pairing: Forget food Fake factor: None Or try this: There is nothing else to try than this wine Inside Information: The wine reflects the vintage with relatively delicate character. Final Verdict: Elegantly feminine port * from wine-searcher.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 31

98p 96p Niepoort Colheita Port 1912 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Niepoort Colheita Port 1900 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €925 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Intense, tawny Nose: Rich, concentrated, complex, nutty Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, intense, vivid, rich Aftertaste: Long, persistent, very concentrated, crème brûlée In a nutshell: Wine like a chocolate nougat Buy or not?: You should buy! Best to drink: Now to eternity Decant time: 30 minutes Glass time: 2 hours Food pairing: No food, share with friends Fake factor: None Or try this: To get a bottle of this today Inside Information: The vintage of the decade Final Verdict: The most seductive port ever made Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €946 2 times, last in 4/2012 Apperance: Dark, bright, brown Nose: Intense, reserved, nutty, dried fruits, spices Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, complex, very concentrated, viscous, dried orange peel Aftertaste: Long, focused, spicy, bit edgy, dark chocolate In a nutshell: Wow Buy or not?: Absolutely yes! Best to drink: Now Decant time: 30 minutes Glass time: 2 hours Food pairing: Forget food Fake factor: None Or try this: Château Margaux 1900 Inside Information: The vintage conditions were very irregular n 1900. Douro was covered by snow during early spring which delayed the season. Afterwards season turned out be very hot in August reaching as high temperatures as 42°C before cooling down for harvest. The harvest was completed with very selective picking. A long barrel ageing guaranteed the concentration of the wine and the wine was bottled finally in 1972. The sweet wine has 142.69 grams sugar per liter. Final Verdict: Firm and powerful port that is full of life 93p Niepoort Colheita Port 1863 Region: Producer: Average Market Price*: Tasting time: Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. NA 4 times, last in 11/2012 Apperance: Moderately deep, brick red Nose: Reserved, complex, spirity, nutty, dark chocolate, liquered cherreis Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, concentrated, firm, spicy, ripe cherries, nutty, raisiny Aftertaste: Long, surprisingly fresh, concentrated, cacao In a nutshell: This wine does not fit in a nutshell Buy or not?: Sorry you cannot buy this, you have to be invited to Dirk's and wish he shall open one his last bottles of this lovely port. Best to drink: Now Decant time: 30 minutes Glass time: 1 hour Food pairing: What ever Dirk wants to serve you Fake factor: None Or try this: Get to know Dirk Inside Information: The wine rested in casks until 1972 when they bottled in demi-johns! Final Verdict: Magical port * from wine-searcher.com The GeNeral QUaliTy oF The TasTeD porT ViNTaGes 2005 1977 1976 1970 1957 1952 32 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA – – – – – – Outstanding Outstanding Poor Outstanding Weak Poor 1947 1937 1917 1912 1900 1863 – – – – – – Very good Weak Moderate Outstanding Outstanding Outstanding

FINE Event Meri kukkavaara, Dirk Niepoort, Maria de oliveira, Aishwarya Nair, jorge Roza De oliveira and Rajiv Singhal 1937 Walt Disney's first full-length animated 1863 Thomas Nast’s first feature, Snow White and visual representation of the Seven Dwarfs, hits 1952 Queen Elizabeth 1970 The Beatles release Santa Claus for Harper’s 1912 RMS Titanic sinks theatres and becomes an II ascends to the British their last album and then 1977 Elvis Presley dies at disband the age of 42 Weekly throne on its maiden voyage instant classic Th r e e c e n t u r i e s o f P o r t b y N i e p o o r t – e v e n t s i n w o r l d h i s t o r y f o r e a c h v i n t a g e 1900 The first Michelin Guide is published 1917 The Russian Revolution and Finnish independence 1947 India gains independence from Great Britain 1957 The USSR launches the first satellite, Sputnik, into space 1976 Air France and British Airways begin Concorde flights 2005 YouTube is launched FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 33

COLUMN PEKKA NUIKKI A WellKnown Secret O ne seems to come across wine forgeries, particularly in the form of Rodenstock bottles, all too often these days. In my last column I related the sadly infamous story of Rodenstock’s Jefferson Lafite, of which I was offered two bottles. Since then I have been presented with a number of wines that appear to have come from Rodenstock’s cellars – and this was once again the case on this particular occasion. I was visiting a well-known Michelin-star restaurant. Before lunch, the head sommelier kindly invited me to join him in the wine cellar. The restaurant manager followed, believing, as I did, that we would be opening a few bottles of fine wine, which we would then good-naturedly discuss. In the first room of the wine cellar my delight quickly turned to confusion. Although the walls of the cellar were lined with countless rows of the world’s greatest wine treasures – dozens of top vintages of Pétrus, Latour and Romanée-Conti – it was a table in the centre of the room that caught my gaze. On it were thirty-odd large bottles. The sommelier picked one up and handed it to me; it was a Château Lafleur 1947 magnum, one of the world’s rar- 68 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA est and most expensive wines. Instead of opening it, he asked me a question. “Mr Nuikki, do you think the bottle is genuine?” At first thought the question was ironic, but when I looked enquiringly at the sommelier, he shrugged without saying anything. I looked at the bottle with interest. Its size, shape, glass colour, label and foil were all as they should be. I asked about the bottle’s origins and price. It had been bought from a well-known auction for 18 000 euros. The sommelier picked up another Château Lafleur 1947 magnum and repeated the discomfiting question, and that was when the sad reality became clear to me. Instead of being invited to the cellar to enjoy good wines, I had been brought here to assess dozens of bottles that were suspected of being forgeries and that should therefore be removed from the wine list. For this unpleasant circumstance I had only one man to blame: Hardy Rodenstock. Polish-born Meinhard Goerke is currently the hottest topic in the wine world. Having changed his name in the late 1960s, Goerke presented himself to the world as Hardy Rodenstock, a descendant of the famous

FINE Nu i k k i ­ odenstock family. Under the guise of his new R identity and thanks to certain incredible wine discoveries, he quickly became a legend among wine connoisseurs. Film stars, sporting heroes, statesmen and the most famous wine critics were regular guests at his splendid dinners and wine tastings. These unbelievably lavish and luxurious affairs often lasted several days and involved tastings of the world’s greatest wines, such as 150 vintages of Château d’Yquem starting from 1790, or 100 vintages of Château Lafite beginning from 1787. Rodenstock became even better known as a wine merchant. He managed to conjure up astonishing amounts of rare wines, especially in large bottles, from places of whose existence no one was aware. When he wasn’t finding a “lost consignment” of nineteenth-century Yquems left by a Russian Tsar in Poland, he was discovering hundreds of cases of Pétrus in Venezuela or eighteenth-century Lafites belonging to Thomas Jefferson behind the wall of an unknown building in Paris. What all of these wines had in common was their excellent condition. Rodenstock successfully operated as a wine merchant until 2006, when the FBI came knocking on his door. In 1988, American billionaire Bill Koch paid half a million dollars in auction for bottles of Lafite from 1784 and 1787 that had supposedly belonged to President Jefferson. These were some of the bottles discovered by Rodenstock in Paris. Eighteen years later, Koch had the bottles analysed by top experts. They believed that they were fakes, as were another one hundred or so bottles in Koch’s cellar. All of them had come from Rodenstock. The case is currently being hashed out in several courts, which have also given summons to many of the biggest auction houses and wine businesses. Many collectors are desperately trying to rid themselves of their Rodenstocks before the case is settled, as the worst-case scenario is that they could become worthless. I myself have lately received very good offers of larger bottles of Lafite 1900, Pétrus 1921, Cheval Blanc 1947, Latour à Pomerol 1961 and Mouton 1945, among others. The most suspicious offer concerned the Château Lafleur 1947 vintage, which was offered to me in a single batch of 156 bottles. When I asked for pictures of the wines, I received a group photograph of five bottles. Their labels were 99 per cent identical, down to the same scratches and marks. I would have bought one bottle to test out of interest, but the seller would not agree to that. In the last 24 months I have opened seven bottles of Lafleur 1947. Based on the contents, at least five of them were forgeries, although externally they looked and felt genuine. Although the wine world has for several years suspected the authenticity of the Rodenstock bottles, the matter has not been discussed publicly. This is understandable in a way, because the knowledge and experience of the world’s leading wine critics and writers regarding certain top wines and their ageing processes is to a great extent based on Rodenstock’s wines. The wine merchants that have for three decades sold his wines to thousands of customers are in a tricky situation as intermediaries. Nor have the estates whose wines Rodenstock has served in his grand affairs reacted. Although there is as yet no certainty regarding the authenticity of his wines, they have mostly received excellent reviews and perfect scores from the most esteemed critics. For example, Château Lafleur mainly has Rodenstock’s magnums to thank for the 100-point scores awarded to its 1947 vintage, whether they are genuine or not. When I visited the Lafleur estate, the owner told me that the winery’s books show that only five magnums of the 1947 vintage were bottled. Between 2007 and 2009, however, more than twenty estate-bottled magnums were sold in auction, so the sommelier was justified in his worry regarding the bottle I now held in my hand. In my view, the bottle seemed genuine based on its external condition, as had the first one. On the other hand, the likelihood of this cellar containing two of the five bottles made at the Château Lafleur estate over sixty years ago was pretty low. Next, the sommelier picked up a double magnum of estate-bottled Pétrus from 1921. As our eyes met I knew that he, as I, had heard that Château Pétrus had bottled no double magnums in 1921. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 69

D uring the 20th century the world around us both grew and shrank. Cars, aeroplanes, visual communication and the Internet broadened our view of the world, but also made it smaller by bringing everything close and within reach. Even the moon was suddenly close enough to visit. For people, the world grew concretely smaller thanks to urbanisation. The space that used to hold farmhouses and fields suddenly pulsed with high-rises and their hundreds of residents. In the cities, work and leisure became clearly separated. To balance a heavy day at work people sought entertainment among movies, sport and television. Entertainment became an industry and mass culture was born, with wine becoming an important part of the phenomenon. The wine industry was not spared notable changes. The winemaker’s senses and experience had to give way to science, which tried to fight nature’s whims and imperfections. Modern winemakers were able to achieve almost total control of every stage of winemaking – from harvesting and fermentation to bottling. Advances in technology ensured that this trend continued throughout the entire 20th century, with more countries producing more wine. And better wine. Or was it? 36 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1900–1999 Part one Text: Pekka Nuikki Photos: Pekka Nuikki W e wanted to find out about this matter and therefore organised a tasting, the kind of which had never been experienced before. Our aim was to taste and experience the whole century, all at once. We selected, searched and purchased the best wine, in our opinion, from each year of the 20th century, as well as several ‘extras’. The work carried was quite extensive, not least since the century includes some years when the wine production throughout the world was almost non-existent. To make things even more difficult for ourselves, we made the decision that each wine brand could only be represented once throughout the whole century. It took us two years to find a presumably drinkable wine from each year of the century. When everything finally was ready, we invited a group of our wine friends to experience a whole century in three days. The experience was dumbfounding and very rewarding. We were also very lucky with our wines; only four wines out of the 156 enjoyed were not in a drinkable condition. This is quite a performance considering that the average age of the wines was over fifty, and the biggest technological leaps in wine production were only experienced at the end of this fascinating century. The wines portrayed on the following pages were chosen to represent their year of birth. This issue will present the wines from 1900 to 1949, with the latter half of the century published in the next issue of FINE Wine & Champagne India. The bottles pictured with the tasting notes are not necessarily the ones tasted in the Century Tasting. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 37

50 The first 97p vintages 1900 Château d’Yquem (FRANCE) 94p 90p 1901 Imperial Tokayer Ausbruch 1902 Luigi Arnolto Barolo (HUNGARY) (ITALY) 97p 93p 1907 Heidsieck & Co Monopole Goût Américain (FRANCE) 92p (FRANCE) 89p 1910 Leone Bianchi Marsala (PORTUGAL) (FRANCE) (ITALY) 1914 Château Pavie (FRANCE) (FRANCE) 38 80p 1904 Arbois Vin Jaune 1909 Château Filhot 1913 Mumm Cordon Rouge 94p 1919 Ruinart Vintage Champagne (FRANCE) 1903 Madeira Boal Reserva D’Oliveiras (PORTUGAL) 95p 89p 1908 Warre Vintage Port 90p 92p 83p 1920 Château Margaux Pavillion Blanc (FRANCE) FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 91p 85p 1915 1916 Corton Hospices Château Brane-Cantenac de Beaune (FRANCE) Magnum (FRANCE) 97p 1921 Brédif Collection Vouvray (FRANCE) 83p 1922 Bodegas Laconda Reserva Especial (SPAIN) 1905 Louis Jadot CharmesChambertin (FRANCE) 82p 1911 Colcombet Frères Musigny (FRANCE) 90p 90p 1906 Château Montrose (FRANCE) 93p 1912 Niepoort Colheita (PORTUGAL) 92p 1917 Borges Vintage Port 1918 Château Coutet (PORTUGAL) (FRANCE) 88p 1923 Château DucruBeaucaillou (FRANCE) 93p 1924 Chateau Margaux (FRANCE)

F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 50 88p The first vintages 94p 1926 Philipponnat Royale Réserve (FRANCE) 90p 94p 1927 Taylor’s Vintage Port (PORTUGAL) 89p 1932 1933 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Viña Real Gran Reserva (SPAIN) Champagne (FRANCE) 94p 93p 1938 1939 Héritiers Cosson Massandra Castel Clos des Lambrays (FRANCE) White Muscat (CRIMEA) 92p 1944 Vega Sicilia Unico (SPAIN) 96p 1945 Comte de Vogüé Musigny (FRANCE) 95p 1928 Pol Roger Vintage Champagne (FRANCE) 94p 1925 Marqués de Riscal Reserva (SPAIN) 97p 92p 98p 1929 Château Pétrus 1930 Château Pichon-Lalande 1931 Niepoort Garrafeira (FRANCE) (FRANCE) (PORTUGAL) 88p 93p 89p 1934 1935 1936 Gaston Roupnel Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Massandra Livadia Chambertin (FRANCE) Grands Echézeaux (FRANCE) Port (CRIMEA) 89p 97p 1941 1940 Château La Mission Domaine de la RomanéeHaut-Brion (FRANCE) Conti Richebourg (FRANCE) 87p 98p 1946 1947 Château Gruaud-Larose Château Cheval Blanc (FRANCE) (FRANCE) 82p 1937 Château Ausone (FRANCE) 91p 1942 J-M Garnier Meursault (FRANCE) 1943 Rheingau Steinberger Auslese (GERMANY) 95p 94p 1948 Château Léoville Barton (FRANCE) 1949 Dom Pérignon (FRANCE) FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 39

1900 1900 Château d’Yquem Protected by kings Château d’Yquem’s first harvest took place in 1593 when Jacques de Sauvage purchased the estate from the Crown. When Francoise de Sauvage and Louis Amade Lur-Saluces, King Louis XV’s godson, married in 1785 Yquem became part of the property of the historic and traditional Lur-Saluces family. At the same time, the vineyard received approval and protection from the French royalty. Today, the vineyard’s 457 acres are about the same as two hundred years ago. Alexandre de Lur-Saluces, the man who ran the winery for thirty years, is now retired and he says that his winemaking philosophy goes back centuries: “The most important thing is to respect nature, just the way my grandfather and his predecessors did hundreds of years ago. We cannot produce great wines without the help of Mother Nature. Every harvest is, in a way, an individual adventure with its individual surprises. We wish to extend this thinking to respect the people who love the wine that comes from our vineyards and the people who work in the fields. Our wines will stay the same in the future as they were a century ago. The tools have changed, but not our way of making wine.” 40 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

1901 < Swedish chemist Alfred Nobel institutes the Nobel Prize < Hot dog and instant coffee are invented 1902 < The Boer War ends < Edward VII is crowned King of United Kingdom, marking the start of the Edwardian era 1903 < The first silent film, The Great Train Robbery, is produced < Wilbur and Orville Wright make the first powered flight 1904 < Phylloxera arrives in Alsace to destroy the vineyards of the last standing quality wine region in France < The Rolls Royce 10 HP is made as one of the most alluring of all luxury cars. In 2007, the car is auctioned by Bonhams for $7.3 million < The Trans-Siberian railway is completed < The New York City subway opens 1905 < The Russian Revolution begins on “Bloody Sunday” < Albert Einstein presents his theory of relativity 1906 < Big earthquake in north San Francisco destroys 45 million gallons of Californian wines < Finland becomes the first country to give women the right to vote 1907 < Picasso introduces Cubism < The first electric washing machine is produced < Colour photography is invented by Auguste and Louis Lumiere F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1900 < Wine production of France is 1.721 billion gallons, a yield that will only be exceeded thrice in the 20th century < Women get the right to compete in the Olympic Games < Kodak introduces Brownie at a cost of $1 plus 15 cents for film, and opens up photography to the masses 97p 1900 1900 Château d’Yquem (France) Average €4752 / 2011 auction price: Colour: Dark, goldish, intense Nose: Dense, complex, spice, honey, butterscotch, roasted sugar, walnut Palate: Nicely balanced, complex, fresh acidity, charmer, luscious Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Forever Another great 1900 Fair price 8 times, last 5/2012 1 hour 3 hours Now Dessert itself Huge – beware the big 3 liter bottles Inside information: This was a great vintage for Yquem, and it is easy to imagine that 100 years ago this 1900 showed the same promise as the famous 2001 today. Holding well, but we still recommend a few years’ cellaring for this beauty. Harvested over an extended period, 19 September – 29 November. Final verdict: Holding well – everything. Taster’s comment: Yquem demonstrated power and elegance, those subtle smells of fresh orange fruits together with the old wooden instruments of a honey producer – a perfect complexity of sweet and acid, and unbelievably ”yquemish” with profound spiciness through the long, long finish... Taster’s comment: A lightweight and beautifully balanced Yquem. Just what I like in a Sauternes, and much nicer than the powerful “burnt sugar” vintages such as the 1937. Taster’s comment: There are few wines that make yesterday and tomorrow, the present and allow one’s own physical being to lose its meaning. What remains is an empty, insignificant space that is momentarily possessed by the sense of taste so complete and powerful that the surrounding world bows to that one perfect sensation. It is almost impossible to describe that fleeting moment, maybe because it is not possible to return to it with the help of one’s thoughts or memories. Or maybe because that moment is so separated from everything else, as if it never existed at all. The only proof or memory of that moment is the feeling of serenity and entirety it leaves behind. If one could put it in just one word it would be: growth. The possibility to “grow” as a human being by tasting wines is a thought worth exploring, and I believe that anyone who has tasted Château d’Yquem from 1900, 1921 or 1937 will understand what I mean. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 41

1901 94p 1901 1901 Imperial Tokayer Ausbruch, Brüder Gottdiener (Hungary) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: €411 A2 Bright, dark, brown Intense, raisiny, nutty, intriguing 90p Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Sweet, vivid acidity, intensively raisiny, roasted coffee, cacao The King of Wine and the wine of the kings, as Louis XIV once named the Tokaji wines, so long live the kings! Inside information: This wine comes from Monforte d’Alba 10 minutes 1 hour Now No food, just meditate with this None €411 A1 1903 Dark, brownish, deep Intense, volatile, almonds, balsamico, cola Sweet, lively acidic, intense fruit, jammed strawberries and raspberries Long, tasty, gently warming bite Well-evolved but still powerful Yes Twice, last in 4/2012 1 hour 2 hours Now–2020 Pistachio ice cream None Inside information: The company Pereira d’Oliveira was established in 1850, but it produced its first wines under the d’Oliveiras name only from the 1970s. Luckily they have been succesful in acquiring some old Madeira stocks from other producers and selling them under their name. Or try this: There are no other wines than Madeiras that are perfoming as well from this vintage. In Madeira, 1903 proved to be a good, if not a very good vintage. Final verdict: A powerful wine that refuses fading. 42 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Complex, evolved, smoky, ashes, earthy, root vegetables, orange peel Malvasia Madeira 1901 Twice, last in 4/2012 1903 Madeira Boal Reserva, D’Oliveiras (Portugal) Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Pale, ruby, sound earthy, spicy, tabasco, some gently tannins Medium-long, gentle, vivid Fragile and well-retired For curiosity, yes Twice, last in 4/2012 10 minutes 30 minutes Now Braised Guinea Fowl with dark lingonberry sauce Fake factor: None area of Barolo, which is known for the big, bold and rich Barolos with great depth of flavor. Thanks to their concentration, the Barolos from Monforte d’Alba tend to have the greatest ageing potential of Barolos. This wine is a great proof of that. Or try this: Any Barolo from this vintage. Final verdict: Amazingly well-reserved Barolo. 89p Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: A2 Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Yes, if you are lucky to find one Taster’s comment: Superb toffee flavours, ‘so good’. It had a thick and viscous texture. Taster’s comment: Apart from its incredible perfume that conjures images of apricot orchards, floating honey, dried fruits, flowers and blooming vines, and its taste that summarises everything on the gloriously sweet, mature and intense palate, it takes you on an historical odyssey, being a wine from one of the last great empires. Even though the Habsburg are long since gone, we can still taste their juice… 83p NA Palate: Medium-bodied, vibrant, sweet cherries, Long, sweet, energetic The true Tokaji charmer 1902 1902 Barolo Luigi Arnolto (Italy) 1904 1904 Arbois Vin Jaune (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €144 A1 Light, a bit hazy, yellow Pronounced, yeasty, dried hay, oceanic, oyster shells Palate: Dry, vivid acidity, chalky, nutty, yeasty, one-dimensional Finish: Long, yeasty and minerally In a nutshell: Like a good Fino Sherry without fortification Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Yes, if you are a fan of dry sherries 4 times, last in 4/2012 15 minutes 1.5 hour Now As an aperitif with olives None Inside information: Vin Jaune (Yellow Wine) is a unique wine style of Jura. It is produced from Savagnin grapes, which are harvested late and well-ripened. The wine must be aged in small oak barrels for a minimum 6 years and 3 months. During the ageing process the wine loses around 40% of its volume through evaporation and develops a thick yeast layer on its surface that both protects the wine from oxidation and releases a distincitve flavour into the wine. The wine can age well over decades after bottling,and in this case can reach a century! Or try this: Fino Sherry from Emile Lustau Final verdict: Curiosity, but you do not miss anything if you don’t have this wine.

At the beginning of the 20th century there lived a couple in the Belgian countryside who had long collected fine wines in the cellar basement of their house. The master of the house was especially interested in the wines of Burgundy and, in particular, the wines of Louis Jadot seemed to find their way to the depths of his cellar, where they awaited their maturity. When the Second World War started the couple was, for good reason, worried about the safety of their wines. To save them from marauding soldiers they built a fake wall in their cellar where a large number of wines, especially the best Burgundy wines, were hidden. After this, they hid some wines in the attic and some in the garden as decoys for the German soldiers, hoping that these would satisfy them. The Germans invaded Belgium in June 1940 and one fateful night this couple was taken from their house by German soldiers, never to return. Decades passed and it was not until 2003, when another young couple moved from Brussels to the countryside and bought this house, that the story of the wines’ lot continues. As this new couple was renovating their house they chanced upon the secret wine cellar that had been hidden for over 60 years. In the cellar were hundreds of old Burgundies and the best wines of Bordeaux. Most labels had faded away over the decades but otherwise the bottles were in excellent condition. We felt remarkably lucky when we were offered the opportunity, by Jan-Erik Paulson, to acquire these historical wines that had rested in such ideal conditions for so long. And, at the time of writing, they have offered extraordinarily positive and unique experiences for us and our many friends! 95p 1905 1905 Louis Jadot Chambertin (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €790 A2 Dark, sound, promising Lavish, powerful, open, sweet, earthy, fleece, burn, dry fruits, chocolaty, plummy Palate: Medium-bodied, intense, great balance, velvety texture, rich black fruit, mellow tannins, well-integrated, complex, harmonious Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Beautiful, very long, silky Pleasant surprise Yes 6 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 45 minutes With special friends No food, please None La Tâche 1904 What a treasure! Taster’s comment: Breathtaking wine. A veritable secret agent of the wine world, as its complex aromas and flavors touched many parts of the globe. Hints of Italy, Spain and the Rhone were all there; let’s hope. Its sweet nose was ripe and red, and its saucy palate was full of coffee flavors. It was ripe, rich and exciting, lush and oily with impressive acidity. Its flavors became more nutty and caramely in the glass, and this wine was good to the last drop. 90p 1906 1906 Château Montrose (France) Average €875 auction price: Bottle A1 condition: Colour: Bright, moderately intense, almost black, promising Nose: Earthy, leathery, developed strawberries, a bit wild and volatile Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, mellow tannins, warming alcohol, silky Taster’s comment: Eternity of the wine world for me was demonstrated by the 1906 Montrose; 1901 Tokay and 1900 Yquem (98 points)!!! I can’t imagine how long those fabulous wines will live, but there are no words to express appreciation when you sip a liquid called wine being more than 100 years old and just understanding that those beauties are just in the middle of their journey and emotion which follows brings you to those times they were made – the world was so different then and now! Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Lengthy, silky appealing finish Enhanced than you anticipated Yes 2 times, last time 5/2012 15 minutes 30 minutes Now No food Fake factor: Zero Or try this: 1908 Léoville Las Cases Final verdict: So far the finest 1906 Bordeaux we have tasted! FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 43 F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g The secret wine cellar

1907 1907 Heidsieck Goût Américain 97p 1907 1907 Heidsieck Goût Américain (France) Average €3980 auction price: Colour: Pale and light, almost youthful Nose: Sweet, fruity, and fresh nose dominated by honey and exotic fruit and raisins Palate: One of the richest champagnes we have tasted, and has amazingly good balance and structure. Finish: Not very sweet, even though the Heidsieck Goût Américain style had a relatively high sugar dosage. In a nutshell: Excellent level; decanted five minutes before tasting. A high dosage wine. No malolactic fermentation. Buy or not: Worth of an once-in-a-lifetime experience Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 32 times, last in 5/2012 15 minutes 15 minutes Now Don´t even think about it None Inside information: The result of the analysis: alcohol content 12.35°, pH 2.93, 42.55 grams residual sugar, total acidity 5.35g H2SO4/litre. Final verdict: Very long and so pleasing wine, which moved smoothly and easily down the throat, leaving a most memorable and historic aftertaste. Taster’s comment: I can’t imagine better a presentation of this champagne Heidsieck 1907 than being served on the sea it was discovered under! I still see this golden liquid being poured from the decanter on that chilly May afternoon. The champagne itself was extraordinary, still with slight fizz and elegant spiciness wrapped into complete fruits. Not so sweet at all with a very long finish! Taster’s comment: Amazing champagne which has everything a great wine should. My mother was born in the town of Jönköping, which was also the name of the shipwreck carrying this bottle. 44 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 1908 < Three year-old Pu Yi becomes Emperor of China < SOS is accepted as the universal distress signal 1909 < Plastic is invented < The North Pole is reached for the first time 1910 < Imperial Japan annexes Korea < Halley’s Comet is observed photographically for the first time 1911 < The Incan city of Machu Picchu is discovered < Roald Amundsen, Norwegian explorer, reaches the South Pole < British physicist Ernest Rutherford discovers the structure of the atom 1912 < The Titanic sinks < The parachute is invented < Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel opens a boutique < Harry Houdini introduces his famous act, which involves escaping from a locked water cabinet 1913 < John Rockefeller is worth $212 billion, 1/44th of the USA economy < Ford installs the first assembly line 1914 < World War I begins < The Panama Canal is officially opened after 10 years of construction < Charlie Chaplin plays the Little Tramp, his most famous character 1915 < The racist “Ku Klux Klan” is formed < The first long-distance telephone call is made when Alexander Graham Bell in New York calls Thomas Watson in San Francisco 1916 < The last Emperor of China, Yuan Shikai, abdicates the throne and the Republic of China is restored < The first self-service grocery store opens in the USA

Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €622 A1 Medium intense, brown, deep Prominent, complex, roasted coffee, seductive, heated, advanced, sweet 80p Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, well-balanced, high Warm, powerful, multi-layered, long A silver-tongued hotty Absolutely 2 times, last time 5/2012 45 minutes 3 hours Now to 2030 A good slice of Stilton Zero Inside information: 1908 was a plentiful vintage that produced some excellent wines shipped by 26 houses. Winter was quite normal and wet. April and May followed without too much heat and the vines progressed adequately. June and July were promisingly, neither too burning nor with much shower. Autumn was warm with just a touch of rain. The conditions were quite similar to the vintage of 1896. Or try this: 1908 Niepoort Colheita Final verdict: Should be even better when you are luckier. €580 A2 Medium-intense, dark gold to amber Perfumed, polite, apricots, crème brûlée, apricot marmelade, touch of herbs, spicey honey Palate: Medium sweet, modest, vivid, a bit acidity, mellow tannins, low fruit intensity Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 1909 1909 Château Filhot (France) unbalanced, sharp, acidic Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Warm, short, sour At least it was drinkable Worth of enjoyment? Not this time. 2 times, last time in 5/2012 1.5 hour 30 minutes Now Fried foie gras None Inside information: This southern most second growth classified Sauternes estate has a colourful history under ownership of one family since 1709. The founder, the advisor of Bordeaux Parliament Romain de Filhot died year after he founded this highly esteemed estate. The estate remained in the family and the family married into well-known Lur-Saluces family. The vintage 1909 was controversial. Sauternes faced less favoured weather conditions this year, but it did not dim the mood in Château Filhot. Or try this: Almost anything else you can find from 1909 Final verdict: Not the best vintage for Sauternes 89p 1910 1910 Marsala Vecchio Amabile Riserva, Leone Bianchi (Italy) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €245 A1 A bit hazy, brown-yellow Rich, volatile, nutty, raisiny, dried apricots, burnt sugar Palate: Sweet, low acidity, nutty, warming alcohol Finish: Medium-length, simple and biting In a nutshell: An alcoholic and raisiny wine without character Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: No 5 times, last in 4/2012 10 minutes 20 minutes Now (it has passed its peak) Cantuccini cookies None Inside information: This fourth-generation family company is a pioneer of branded Marsalas. Or try this: 1910 Massandra White Muscat Livadia Final verdict: A curiosity but not more than that. 82p 1911 1911 Colcombet Frères Musigny (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €380 A1 Dark, healthy, red Distant, sweet, pleasant, gentle, mushrooms, apricots, vanilla Palate: Medium-full, good balance, a bit simple, gentle tannins, dryish, mature Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Medium-long, silky, warming Modest but amusing Yes 2 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 30 minutes Now Mushroom risotto None A book about 1911’s Champagne riots Nevertheless, the best Burgundy we have tasted from this average vintage. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 45 F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1908 93p 1908 Warre Vintage Port (Portugal)

1912 93p 1912 1912 Niepoort Colheita (Portugal) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €1012 A1 Deep, inky black, sound, promising Sweet, commanding, complex, offensive, chocolate, smoke, peppery, dried fruits Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: passionated Almost perfect Big Yes 6 times, last in 5/2012 1.5 hour 3 hours Before 2040 Crème Caramel None Inside information: Colheitas are dated tawnies aged in small casks. The minimum age requirement is 7 years, but the tradition at Niepoort is to age several more years before bottling. The wine takes on a Tawny hue. Wood and nutty tones are evident on the palate due to the wine’s slow ageing in old casks. The 1912 Colheita was bottled in 1972. Or try this: Niepoort Colheita 1900 Final verdict: A taste of another era that makes you Medium-rich, golden, no bubbles Clean, evolved, lean, one-dimensional, peachy Finish: Medium-length, a bit austere, earthy In a nutshell: Surprisingly fresh for a century-old Champagne Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Always a risk, but worth going for Twice, last in 4/2012 None 15 minutes Now Pan-fried scallops with hazelnuts and a butter glaze Fake factor: None Inside information: When this champagne was produced, G.H.Mumm had become the world’s biggest champagne producer thanks to its 3 million-bottle production. Or try this: Pol Roger 1911 Final verdict: For a difficult vintage, G.H. Mumm have been able to make a pretty good champagne! wonder if you want to go back? Taster’s comment: 1912 Niepoort – it feels like it would be unfair to compare this with the non-fortified wines as no one would stand a chance to compete with the incredible power, inimitable intensity, mind-blowing length or the alluring complexity of this wine! Let’s say that this encapsulates and amplifies everything we’ve learned to love about fine old Port. A2 grapefruits, citrus, fresh perfect balance and structure, Wow. In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: €1090 Palate: Off-dry, crisp, vivid, ripe yellow fruits, Palate: Jam-packed, intense, complex, opulent, Finish: Never-ending, concentrated, sincere, 1913 Cuvée Cordon Rouge, 92p 1913 Mumm G.H. Mumm (France) Taster’s comment: So youthful, bubbly, powerful and amazing. 1913 Mumm showed itself so well that you could easily have mistaken it with one from seventies! Of course, those truffle notes betrays a bit, but every sip was a mindblowing experience!! It is about generosity Hospices de Beaune is a group of hospitals, the oldest of which, Hôtel-Dieu, was built in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of the Duchy of Burgundy and his wife Guigone de Salins. They bequeathed the vineyards that they owned to this foundation and some other benign growers have done the same over the past five centuries. Since 1851, on every third Sunday in November a charity auction takes place in Beaune where wines from the vineyards, now belonging to the Hospices de Beaune, are sold – not under the name of the vineyard but under the name of the donor of the vineyard. Although these special cuvées are auctioned at prices usually higher than their current commercial values, the result still serves as a certain indication of wine prices for the new vintage. Taster’s comment: What is this magical drink? I have never smelled anything like this, yet its fragile aroma gives me the same sensation as a dried rose, like the kind your girlfriend would keep by her bedside. Clearly this wine is old because the colour here in the light through the glass looks like rose-petal brick dust water. It is so counterintuitive that a wine that looks this old can offer such a vibrant, lively song. Wow! On the palate it is a love chant to my mind! This can only be Burgundy from long, long ago. If it is Burgundy, then I would bet it is the oldest I have ever tasted. 46 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 91p 1915 1915 Corton Hospices de Beaune (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €620 A2 Bright, moderately intense, deep red Earthy, tough, developed strawberries, wild, explosive, dark chocolate, vanilla Palate: Medium-bodied, balanced, elegant, silky, pronounced, seductive Finish: Prolonged, silky, silver-tongued finish In a nutshell: A dried rose, the kind your girlfriend would keep by here bedside. Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Buy! 2 times, last time 5/2012 45 minutes 30 minutes Now Roasted Pigeon with lentils Very low Go to the actual annual auction Very rare wartime wine with noble cause.

F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 90p 1914 1914 Château Pavie (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €640 A1 Dark, healthy, deep, mature Severe, open, blackberries, down-to-earth, mint, tobacco, forest Palate: Balanced, some acidity, soft tannins, medium-bodied, firm but modest structure, simple Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Dusty, medium-long, dryish Should it be even better? Yes 2 times, last time in 2012 45 minutes 30 minutes Now Lamb casserole No way Inside information: The spring of 1914 was exceptionally hot, promising a beautiful summer which then proved to be the hottest in living memory. This very promising vintage has nevertheless proven to be a disappointment, partly due to the First World War that caused lack of supplies and skillful labour. In many vineyards the bottling did not take place until late 1916. Of the few wines that we have tasted from this vintage, all except one have been drinkable, but were relatively light, dry and short. Or try this: Château Pavie 1900 Final verdict: No wonder that Pavie was just elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classé A. 1917 90p 1917 Borges Vintage Port (Portugal) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: €200 A2 Bright, moderately light, brown red Seductive, floral, spicy, vanilla Sweet, expressive, rich, complex, silky, sweet spices and milk chocolate Finish: Long, warming, delicate In a nutshell: The epitome of a well-matured, good Vintage Port Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Yes, but from where? Four times, last in 4/2012 30 minutes 1 hour Now A dessert in itself None Inside information: The vintage was good, but not great. 85p 1916 Château Brane-Cantenac Magnum (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €2188 A2 1916 Intense, brick red, deep Reserved, a little volatile, very mature, antique, cassis, soy, a touch of cedar Palate: Medium-bodied, round, gentle tannins, a bit tarry, rich dark fruit, brambles Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Medium-length, loose, tarry A rustic and modest Claret The year of Finland’s independence. Or try this: To experience equally positive tasting experiences from the wines of this vintage, go for Spain – Vega Sicilia or the well-known brands of Rioja. Final verdict: A wine that is easy to fall in love with. Taster’s comment: Excellent looking, perfect bottle. Almost 100 years old and still very vigorous and lively. Very generous nose full of raisins, currants and wild floral aromas. Perhaps a bit too sweet for my taste, but very stylish and complex wine. Round and supple, hot aftertaste. As good as one can expect. Too risky Twice, last in 4/2012 20 minutes 45 minutes Now Entrecôte grillée None Inside information: The Bordeaux wines from 1916 are generally robust and lacking of elegance – no exception here. Or try this: A ride in a Mercedes 35 hp – the first modern automobile. Final verdict: Retired, but still alive. Taster’s comment: A little volatile and slightly tarry flavour overpowers the moderately rich cassis and cedar characters. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 47

1918 92p 1918 1918 Château Coutet (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €412 A2 Light, gold, bright Open, sound, chewy, waxy, dried apricots, truffles Palate: Medium-sweet, round, complex, vivid, polished Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Short, dry and oaky Not a cosmic or noteworthy wine No regrets, but not again. 4 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 2 hours Now Aged Camembert A war and after The First World War which finally ended on 1918 cost France dearly with the country losing over 1,300,000 men and more than three million wounded. The resulting labour shortage was covered by foreign employees whose presence aroused ill-feeling among the French workers. The Germans had destroyed cities and infrastructure and damaged agriculture. The cost of products and services had risen 400% since the beginning of the war. On the other hand, inflation raised prices of wines and wine growers were doing better than before 1914. Most of the villages in Sauternes had survived with minor material damage but they still suffered heavy losses in manpower and expertise. Regardless of the poor circumstances after the war and the average vintage of 1918, the winemakers still succeeded in producing some very good wines, mostly better than this one. None Château d´Yquem 1918 Too much water under the bridge 1919 Vintage Champagne 92p 1919 Ruinart(France) 97p Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €534 A3 Bright, medium dark yellow Open, sound, maple syrup, chocolaty, caramel and truffle Palate: Dry, lucious, full, well-balanced, intense, (France) €380 A1 Bright, amber, golden Intense, dried apricots, citrus, lime, honey, botrytis Palate: Sweet, crisp, moderately light-bodied, beautiful Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 1921 1921 Brédif Collection Vouvray concentrated, intense fruit, crème brûlée You wish Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Veuve Clicquot 1923 Inside information: This bottle came directly from the Medium-long, sweet, complex, mature Tender bubbly Absolutely 2 times, last in 5/2012 15 minutes 45 minutes Now Gratinated mussels Entertaining yet nothing overly electrifying. Taster’s comment: A combination of coffee and smoky maple syrup. A lovely champagne. Long, silky, refined A Vouvray with purity and great finesse Yes Twice, last in 4/2012 20 minutes 1.5 hour Now Raspberry mille-feuille None producer’s cellar, where it had rested ever since it was bottled Or try this: Château d’Yquem 1921 Final verdict: An absolutely beautiful wine that seems immortal, as almost no signs of ageing can be detected. Taster’s comment: A most beautiful wine. A nose reminding me of “hjortron” – a golden berry found in Lapland. Absolutely delicious. 48 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

1918 < The end of World War I < Russian revolutionaries execute the former Tsar Nicholas II and his family < Daylight saving time comes into effect < The Spanish flu pandemic strikes: by 1920 nearly 20 million are dead 1919 < Germany is forbidden to continue using the name Champagne for its sparkling wines < The Treaty of Versailles redefines European borders and establishes the Weimar Republic in Germany < The League of Nations is founded in Paris < Mahatma Gandhi begins his non-violent resistance movement against British rule in India 1920 < More prunes than vines cultivated in Napa Valley < Prohibition begins in the USA < The world’s first radio station opens in Britain < European countries control almost 90% of the earth’s surface 1921 < The Irish free state is proclaimed < Adolf Hitler becomes Führer of the Nazi Party < The lie detector is invented 1922 < The Union of Soviet Socialist Republics is formed < Tutankhamun’s tomb is discovered and opened < Mussolini marches on Rome and forms a Fascist government F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1917 < The October Revolution in Russia occurs and brings about the onset of the Russian Civil War < Finland declares independence from Russia < The first Pulitzer prizes are awarded < Dutch dancer Mata Hari is convicted and executed as a German spy 1920 Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc Retaining tradition is rewarding The production of Pavillon Blanc is an age-old tradition at Château Margaux. In the 19th century, it was sold as ‘vin blanc de sauvignon’ and was given the brand name Pavillon Blanc in 1920. Its label, apart from a few compulsory legal details, has not changed since. The twelve-hectare vineyard is made up exclusively of Sauvignon white grapes. It is located on a very old plot belonging to the estate which did not qualify to be part of the Margaux appellation when the boundaries were officially set in 1855 because of the high risk of spring frosts. It is a great consolation today to be able to harvest a white wine which is not just original but of excellent quality too. The age of the vines and shorter pruning permit the yield to be kept under 30 hectolitres per hectare without provoking an increase in vine vigour. The vinification simply aims to express as closely as possible the qualities obtained in the grapes. Even though Sauvignon grapes are very prone to rot (Botrytis cinerea), they can reach a level of ripeness which rids them of their vegetal characters and brings out floral and fruity notes. 94p 1920 1920 Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: €1080 A2 Full, yellow, deep, promising Accessible, rigorous, toasty, fresh, fruity Sweet, crisp, vivid, tropical fruit, elegant, well-balanced, intense Finish: Harmonious and long In a nutshell: Can 90-years old white wine get any enhanced? Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Go for it if you are able to find it 2 times, last in 5/2012 25 minutes 1 hour Now Blackened Tiger Prawns None Pavillon Blanc 1928 or 1929 vintages Final verdict: The sweetest memory to share Taster’s comment: A memory of a lifetime – the 1920 Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc – one of the finest wines in the world. A wonderful bouquet and one of the very special wines, that was tasted and then tasted again until there was only a memory left in the glass. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 49

1922 83p 1922 Bodegas Laconda Reserva Especial (Spain) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: 1922 Under €200 A1 Medium intense, tile red, healthy Definite, complex, roasted coffee, toasted, oaky, evolved 88p Finish: Medium-long, soft, sweet In a nutshell: Still very drinkable, almost memorable Buy or not: At this low price, then yes, if you just can find one Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 8 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 1 hour Now Grilled lamb chops No way Viña Real 1922 Cost-effective (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €655 A2 Moderately light, bright, tuile-red Ripe, milky, chocolaty, toasty, sweet berries Palate: Medium-bodied, gentle tannins, Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, quite acidic, mellow tannins, low fruit intensity, average 1923 1923 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou sweet and ripe red fruit Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Long, milky, toasty Discreetly aged but now retired No, there are better options Twice, last in 4/2012 5 minutes 20 minutes Now Grilled duck breast None Inside information: A difficult year due to the unstable, rainy and cool seasons. To reach the grape ripeness, the harvest was postponed until the beginning of October. As a result, the quality of the wines was average rather than moderately poor. Or try this: Château Gruaud-Larose 1923 Final verdict: Nothing to long for. 93p 1924 1924 Château Margaux (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €1211 A1 Full, deep, mature red Progressive, intense, fresh,toasty, floral, roasted, creamy Palate: Medium-bodied, a bit dry, elegant, quite vivid acidity, good structure, satiny texture, ripe Finish: Harmonius, light, smooth In a nutshell: Faided grace Buy or not: Very sensitive wine – buy only perfect bottles Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: 11 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 45 minutes Now Plate of charcuterie Moderate Château Pétrus 1924 One of the great, old value for money Margaux – a lot less expensive than any good current vintage Taster’s comment: I associate most younger vintages of Margaux as fairly light, even underwhelming on numerous occasions. However, the really old vintages have been astonishing and this wine offered a beautiful texture; it was still rich and fruity with a plethora of wild berries and a smooth (almost creamy) sensation, still very clean without oxidation and a truly long, powerful finish. 50 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 88p 1925 1925 Marqués de Riscal Reserva Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: (Spain) €671 A1 Moderately deep, tuile red Rich, earthy, roasted coffee Medium-bodied, silky, refined powdery tannins Long, intense, concentrated, firm tannins An old Rioja but still hanging in there Yes Twice, last in 4/2012 10 minutes 1 hour Now Grilled vension None Inside information: The 1925 vintage was very good, both in quality as well as quantity. Or try this: Vega Sicilia Unico 1923 Final verdict: Another good example of Marqués de Riscal’s long ageing potential.

Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Over €250 A1 Bright, goldish, promising Very fresh, fully open, toasty, sweet, creamy aromas, mushrooms Palate: Medium-dry, some bubbles, toasty, crisp, broad, nicely balanced, creamy Finish: Long, lovely, firm In a nutshell: Delightful surprise Buy or not: Don´t even try – impossible to find, even Philipponnat don´t have any left Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 2 times, last in 5/2012 15 minutes 30 minutes Now Fried scallops None Inside information: The winemaker was the famous Louis Bolland, who at the time was both Philipponnat’s Chef de Cave and Mareuil sur Ay’s biologist, and the pioneer of yeast selection and more scientifically controlled bottling and “prise de mousse” in Champagne. Or try this: Krug 1926 Final verdict: Serene, virale yet an old, mature Champagne Taster’s comment: The 1926 Philipponnat Royale Réserve Demi-Sec was the sweetest Champagne that I’ve ever had. It was caramel city with its smooth, browned flavours. It was balanced and mature to the brink but without being oxidized; it was an age thing. ‘So sweet’ and ‘mushroomy’ summed it up. 1927 94p 1927 Taylor’s Vintage Port (Portugal) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: €1145 A1 Dark, intense, brown Advanced, nuts, raisiny, dried fruts, waxy Fleshy, fruity, smooth, well-balanced, round, complex and intense Very long, warming, silky, flavourful Exciting Yes, this is one of the classic 14 times, last 5/2012 45 minutes 2 hours Now to 2040 95p 1928 1928 Pol Roger (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €1754 A3 Pale-gold, appealing Fresh, lively, rich, sweet, butter, vanilla, nutty, honeyed Palate: Intense, sweet, ripe, well-integrated and balanced, complex, sparkling, elegant Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Long, dryish, crisp, sweet A beauty without beast One of the real classics – so, yes 9 times, last in 5/2012 15 minutes 45 minutes Still almost perfect Foie gras Small but existing Inside information: This vintage was a particular favourite of Winston Churchill to whom it was shipped until 1953. Or try this: Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 1928 Final verdict: Winston Churchill was rarely wrong. Taster’s comment: This original magnum (no recent disgorgement) had lightly sautéed butter and perfectly burnt white sugar in its nose. Wheat, light grass and yellow fever all graced the palate, which also had just the right amount of petulance. Its sweetness was noticeable to the last sip. It was quite sweet, ‘normal for the period’ per Super Somm, who won The Best Sommelier of the World. Perfection in trying conditions 1927 is one of the best vintages between 1912 and 1936 and one of the most enjoyable vintages of older ports just now. Because of the high appreciation for this vintage its prices are very high and availability is next to nil. The year 1927 began in Douro with rain which continued through spring until the end of June. The summer was scorching hot and dry and the groundwater reserves that had charged during the spring came in handy. Because of the late-summer drought the harvest was very small but of extremely high quality. The harvest was done almost entirely in dry weather and thirty port houses celebrated the year with a vintage wine. The best of them are now velvety, fruity and perfectly balanced entities which no port enthusiast can resist – and we were no different with this almost perfect Taylor. No need for it None Cockburn 1927 A classic Port with beautiful texture and a lovely extended flavour and finish. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 51 F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1926 Royale Réserve 94p 1926 Philipponnat (France)

1929 1929 Château Pétrus Every cloud has a silver lining 1929 was an extraordinary year in the vineyards of Bordeaux as well as on Wall Street. When the US stock markets crashed in 1929 there were 16 million unemployed (about a third of the available labour force) in the United States. In Europe, many countries had not fully recovered from the aftermath of the First World War. In Germany, the economic disaster and the resulting social dislocation contributed to the rise of Adolf Hitler. In Bordeaux, 1929 is one of the “legendary” vintages of the century, which gained reputation as the Thirties were a catastrophic decade, and it was not until 1945 that anything of equal quality was made. These sixteen years were one of longest “dark periods” in the 20th century. 1929 was the driest since the beginning of the century. It only rained for a short period during the harvest, but then the fine and hot weather came back again. The grapes became very concentrated, high in tannins and produced wine to last. 98p 1929 1929 Château Pétrus (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €7340 A1 Almost black, deep, concentrated Very intense, sexy, vital, fleshy, woody, sweet, plump Palate: Concentrated, dense, firm structure, balanced, opulent, powerful, fat, Wau! Finish: Endless, luscious, vibrant In a nutshell: Complete Buy or not: Extremely costly even for Pétrus, but we only live once Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 7 times, last in 5/2012 1 hour 2 hours Now to 2025 No need Huge Inside information: Perhaps the best vintage since 1900. A hot dry year, the driest since the start of the century, especially August and September were unusually dry months. The juices were very concentrated and the wines characterized by an enormous richness of tannin. The crop was average size. Or try this: Château Latour 1929 Final verdict: Full of magic and star quality Taster’s comment: Pétrus for me was still like youth, dropping down tannins and wanting to show his power to the outsider world!!! So dark in color for a wine of 83 years old. Unbelievably complex, a fruit bomb from one side and totally integrated from another. Endless finish. Difficult to believe that there could be any better wine in my life! 52 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 1923 < Kemal Aratürk becomes first president of the newly established Republic of Turkey, and Ankara replaces Istanbul as the capital < Time magazine is first published < The Charleston dance becomes popular < German shepherd Rin Tin Tin becomes film’s first canine star 1924 < Mouton-Rothschild’s first artist label designed by Jacques Carlu < The first Winter Olympic Games are held < Vladimir Lenin dies and Joseph Stalin seizes power in the Soviet Union < The FBI is founded under J. Edgar Hoover 1925 < Hitler publishes Mein Kampf < Benito Mussolini gains dictatorial powers in Italy < The first televisual image is created 1926 < Hirohito becomes Emperor of Japan < Coups in Greece, Poland and Portugal install new dictatorships < A.A. Milne publishes Winnie-the-Pooh 1927 < The brand name Dom Pérignon, owned by Mercier, is gifted to Moët & Chandon < Charles Lindbergh makes the first non-stop solo transatlantic flight < The first talking movie, The Jazz Singer, astonishes audiences < The BBC is founded 1928 < Penicillin is discovered < The first television is sold for $75 < Mickey Mouse makes his debut < The first Oxford English Dictionary is published

1930 1930 Château Pichon-Lalande (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: €421 A2 Medium-intense, tuile-red Delicate, vivid, minty, cassis Moderately light-bodied, smooth, low acidity, gently austere tannins Finish: Fairly long, lingering, short of concentration In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fragile and delicate Yes Twice, last in 4/2012 15 minutes 30 minutes Now Sauteed monkfish fillet with creamed chanterelles Fake factor: None Inside information: As a vintage, 1930 is considered one of the terrible trees of the thirties, as it was practically impossible to harvest ripe grapes. Or try this: Read a book called A Century of Wine Final verdict: Given the poor and unripe vintage, this wine is surprisingly good and still drinking so well! Taster’s comment: A 1930 Pichon-Lalande began the next flight seductively, and coffee was the first impression. Olive and a red and brown fruit mélange followed. There were flavours of wafer, tobacco and red citrus. The wine was in territory but good thing I drank it in three sips - it fell by a point with every sip as the air attacked. This was a solid effort given the fact that 1930 was about as difficult a vintage as you’ll find in the history of wine. 90p 1932 1932 Veuve Clicquot (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: €511 A2 Medium-intense, amber, no bubbles Evolved, volatile, maderised, walnutty Dry, crisp, vivid, stingy, walnuts, lemony Medium-length, edgy, nutty A retiring lady No Twice, last in 4/2012 – 1931 97p 1931 Niepoort Garrafeira (Portugal) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €1320 A1 Bright, brown, profound Open, opaque, burnt wood, caramel, spices, cigar Palate: Sweet, mouthfilling, smooth, wellbalanced, intense, fresh Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Melodious, smooth-edged, endless Real refinement Yes 6 times, last 5/2012 30 minutes 2 hours Now to 2030 No need for it Low Inside information: In the 19th century, the Niepoort family had the vision to buy from a German glass factory in Oldenburg about 4000 demi-johns of dark-green glass with varying capacities from 8 to 11 litres. Eduard Marius van der Niepoort, Dirk’s grandfather, bottled the best wines of the 1931 harvest in these demi-johns, thus creating the “Garrafeira Niepoort”. Since 1931 to this day the maturation in the demijohns, sealed with a cork, has been closely watched as a “sacred” ritual. Or try this: Quinta do Noval 1931 Final verdict: Secret that taste like freedom Taster’s comment: The 1931 Niepoort was also thrilling. It was one of the best ports I have ever had, full of caramel and pepper, delicious yet most importantly smooth. The secret of the Garrafeira style is one that needs to be shared with the majority of the wine world! First, the struggle The champagne market fluctuated in the period between the two World Wars and consumption dropped from 39 million bottles in 1909 to merely 4.5 million bottles in 1932. Between 1920 and 1923 champagne exports fell by 55%. The vine growers were also hit by the slump in the price of grapes which fell from 10 francs a kilo in 1926 to 1.50 francs in 1932 when the stocks in the cellars in Reims and Epernay contained the equivalent of 33 years of consumption. However, the year 1937 saw 38 million bottles being sold and the struggle of the Champagne producers was over. 15 minutes Now Pata Negra None Inside information: One of the generally poor vintages of the century in Europe, and Champagne was no exception. Or try this: If you want a safe choice from the 1930s go for the top vintages of 1934 or 1937 Final verdict: A beautifully aged widow FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 53 F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 92p

1933 1933 89p 1933 Viña Real Gran Reserva (Spain) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €240 A1 Opaque, brownish, healthy Sweet, dense, nutty, white chocolate, raisin Palate: Medium-bodied, well-balanced, silky, smooth, ripe Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Warming, substantial, fragrant Better than office lunch At this price level – yes 8 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 45 minutes Worthy winners Two brothers set up a business in the newly flourishing trade of wine in 1879 and CVNE (Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España), was created. Their wines began winning medals at the biggest international exhibitions and soon CVNE adorned all of Spain’s highest regarded wine lists. It was one of the first wineries in Rioja to bottle its own wines and in 1900 it had an extraordinary ageing capacity of 80,000 bottles, somewhat unusual at the time as most wineries used to sell their wines as soon as possible. Viña Real is produced mostly with the Tempranillo, a grape perfectly adapted to the Rioja Alavesa ‘terroir’, where it grows in ideal conditions. Tempranillo also lends the wines a unique ability to benefit from long barrel and bottle ageing. Now Oven baked rack of lamb Small but existing Inside information: In 1920s, the first Viña Real wines were placed on the market. They were wines made with grapes from the Elciego area, in the heart of Rioja Alavesa, where the vineyards located near the old Camino Real were located, inspiring the name Viña Real. Taster’s comment: A lovely wine with sweet fruit. So few people know how well Rioja can age. Or try this: Vega Sicilia Unico 1936 Final verdict: Viña Real is one of those “phenomenon” wines that will never let you down. Royal patronage 1934 Chambertin 94p 1934 Gaston Roupnel (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Over €250 A2 Moderately light, brick red to tawny Complex, toasty, roasted coffee, root vegetables, earthy Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, some red fruits, perfumey, supple, earthy Finish: Long, silky, savory In a nutshell: A classy mature burdungy Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Yes Twice, last in 4/2012 15 minutes 45 minutes Now Melting camembert None Inside information: Together with 1937, this was the vintage of the decade in Burgundy. Or try this: Armand Rousseau Chambertin 1934 Final verdict: Napoleon was quite right, who needs another red wine besides Chambertin. 54 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Chambertin gained its reputation from the patronage of Napoleon I who is rumoured not to have drunk anything else and watered down his Chambertin with plenty of water. He favoured it at five-to-six-years-old and never drank more than half a bottle with a meal. When the ex-Emperor was exiled to St. Helena he was forced to drink claret as that was easier to ship to the isolated island. The Thirties were a gloomy period in Burgundy as in Bordeaux. The market was frozen. 1930 was a very poor vintage, 1931 was even worse and 1932 was still bad but not quite as complete a failure as the other two. There are many vivid stories of proprietors of vineyards who were forced to empty their kegs of wine into the gutter to make space for the new vintage. 1933 and 1934 were two good years when pleasing, soft, early-maturing wines were made in comparatively large quantities. They were also the last two vintages to be shipped before the war. The 1934 stood out as exceptional (with 1937) among some poor vintages. 1934 was the best vintage of that troubled decade. Wines became rich, almost overripe due to the hot summer. Taster’s comment: ‘‘Nail polish remover’ in the nose of this next wine, per Super Somm. There was huge acidity and lots of power in this monster of a Burgundy. I couldn’t believe this was from 1934, and even more that it was bottled in 1937 (and not reconditioned). This bottle showed the power and acid of 1934, one of the all-time great vintages, but this bottle came up short on its fruit and flavours.

Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €620 A2 Bright, clean, deep red Unsophisticated, robust, strawberries, remote, white chocolate, tobacco, vanilla 94p Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Medium-bodied, balanced, exotic, fruity, Rarely seen but worth looking out for 4 times, last time 5/2012 30 minutes 45 minutes Now Pot-au-feu Low Inside information: Underrated Burgundy vintage. Or try this: Any Clos Vougeot from 1935 Final verdict: Unjustly but understandably ignored. Taster’s comment: Its nose was mature and tangy, ‘Burgish’. There were lots of vitamins and rosy fruit, and while there was a touch of maderization to the nose, it was more mesquite than maderized. The mid-palate was thin, and flavours of wood, tobacco and game were noticeable first, but the wine kept improving in the glass. It got very exotic with lime, citrus and orange rind joining the party. Super Somm added, ‘mushroom and earth’. A1 Dark, clean, promising Excessive, mighty, open, sweet, blackberry, smoke, roasted herbs, fragant, plummy, mocha, spicy deep sweetness, suave tannins, bright acidity, classic Lengthy, vigorous, reckless Oddly seductive €1280 Palate: Full-bodied, intense, good balance, pronounced, mature Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 1938 1938 Héritiers Cosson Clos des Lambrays (France) Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Generous, mineral, long Great backbone and weight Yes 2 times, last in 5/2012 45 minutes 45 minutes Now No food – please None Inside information: As early as 1365, we find the vineyard referred to as Cloux des Lambrey in the deeds of Citeaux Abbey. In 1868, Domaine des Lambrays was re-unified from its multiple owners. In 1938 the estate was acquired by Renée Cosson. Since this moment the estate is “falling in a sleep” like “sleeping beauty” according to Jean-François Bazin. Or try this: DRC Romanée-Conti 1938 Final verdict: Outstanding wine, which combines unique terroir, long history and compelling charisma. A russian story 89p 1936 1936 Massandra Livadia Port (Crimea) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €650 A2 Bright, clear, maroon red Intense, sweet, burnt sugar, nutty, chocolate, cocoa, dried fruit, open Palate: Sweet, medium intense and bodied, nicely balanced, charming, complex Finish: Warming, rich, long In a nutshell: Easy to fall in love with Buy or not: Massandra wines have great value for money factor Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 6 times, last in 5/2012 45 minutes 2 hours Now to 2025 No food None so far Inside information: Only 1600 bottles produced. Or try this: Massandra White Muscat 1936 Final verdict: Massandra Collection wines can challenge the world’s best fortified wines with their extremely appealing intensity and stability. The Massandra Collection is a treasure trove of ancient wines. The largest wine collection in the world – 250,000 decilitres of wine in wooden casks as well as 1,000,000 bottles - it was originally built by Prince Lev Sergeivich Golitzyn. On Golitzyn’s request, Massandra´s main wine cellar for fortified wines was built in three years, between 1894–97. Seven tunnels were dug providing ideal conditions for the ageing of 3.5 million litres of wine. Also, a two-storey gallery was dug under the cellar that could accommodate a million bottles of wine. Russia’s first subterranean wine-ageing factory, it has survived the ravages of time, including earthquakes and wars, and when the revolution arrived in 1917 the stock of one million bottles of wine was protected by simply walling up the galleries. In 1922, Stalin ordered the wines from all the Tsar’s palaces to be put under lock and key at Massandra, where wine production was continued over several generations under the Yegorov family. Just before the Nazi assault on Crimea in 1941, the one million bottles were removed and placed in secret hiding places, and brought back after the German Army had departed. The result is an unparalleled collection of wines dating back to some of the 19th century vintages. Taster’s comment: A charmer! Such a generous, opulent and rich wine. Even if the wine is short of finesse, it has pretty much everything else what it takes to be a great wine. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 55 F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1935 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 88p 1935 Grands Echézeaux (France)

1937 93p 1937 1937 Château Ausone (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €745 A1 (re-corked at the château 1996) Dark, black, energetic, healthy Exposed, full, concentrated, mature, spice, tobacco, plummy, coffee, fragrant, cedar Palate: Perfumed, opulent, opulent, focused, profound, silky texture, nicely balanced, soft tannin, low acidity, multi-layered Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Silky, lingering, lengthy As youthful as 1982 Ausone Yes 4 times, last time 5/2012 45 minutes 1.5 hour Now, not later on. Grilled Entrecôte with haricot verts Only 1921 and 1947 Ausone are risky business Inside information: Ausone takes its name from Decimus Magnus Ausonius (310-395 CE), a statesman and poet from Bordeaux who owned about 100 acres of vineyard, and it is believed by some that Château Ausone stands upon the foundations of his villa. Or try this: Château Pétrus 1937 Final verdict: Fine, thoughtful, understated 93p 1939 1939 Massandra Castel White Muscat (Crimea) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €655 A2 Bright, rose brown, promising Very intense, sweet, honey, ripe plums, floral, peachy fruitiness, mint, dried fruit, candied minerals Palate: Full-bodied, good balance, rich, complex, viscous texture, fresh acidity Finish: Long, sweet, lingering, finesse In a nutshell: What a charmer Buy or not: Yes – Massandra wines have great story and value for money feature Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: 5 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 3 hours Now to 2035 Smoked white fish with cremed chantarelles Fake factor: No food Inside information: The Rose Muscat grape is a subvariety of the famous White Muscat, which appeared in Southwest Europe some centuries ago and has been produced at Massandra since 1895. Aged for 24 months in oak barrels Alcohol: 16%. Residual sugar: 16%. Or try this: Massandra Red Stone White Muscat 1939 Final verdict: Another great Massandra! 56 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 89p 1940 1940 Château La Mission Haut-Brion (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: €450 A2 A bit hazy, ruby Pronounced, meaty, rubbery and smoky Medium-bodied, firm, austere, jammed dark fruit, a bit coarse Long, milk chocolate, edgy Burnt tyres No Twice, last in 4/2012 15 minutes 45 minutes Now Sauteed lamb chops Low Inside information: An average vintage with relatively high rainfall. Or try this: 1940 Château Margaux Final verdict: Unfortunately a worn bottle. Taster’s comment: None of the hard tannins so common in 1937s. Lovely. Location is always key In 1937 France’s exports had fallen by over 50%, adding to the miseries of the winegrowers who were already suffering from bad vintages since the beginning of the decade. The year was warm and dry. The lingering faith in the future among the winegrowers of the Bordeaux area brought about this magnificent vintage. In Bordeaux, the harvest gave a splendid crop, and this lovely Ausone is one of the very best examples of it. Château Ausone is from the Saint-Émilion appellation and one of only two wines (the other being Cheval Blanc) to be ranked as a Premier Grand Cru Classé A. Placed on the western edge of the 11th century village, Saint-Émilion, with elevated vineyards facing south on steep terraces in an ideal situation, Ausone was one of a few wineries that escaped the terrible frost of 1956. Its neighbor, Cheval Blanc, was not so lucky and lost several years’ vintages and suffered vine destruction.

F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1941 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg The king’s minister versus the king’s mistress Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is without question the most famous estate in Burgundy, and arguably the greatest, as it produces some of the best wines in the world. Furthermore, it is probably one of the most traditional wineries in France. The domaine has 25 hectares of vineyards, all Grand Crus, including the jewel in the crown, the 1.8 hectare monopole of Romanée-Conti. Romanée-Conti was originally the property of the Abbey of St. Vivant. In 1760, Prince Conti acquired it despite competition from a famous collector of jewellery, Madame de Pompadour. He withdrew it from the market and reserved it for his own dazzling social events, and it was he who created the myth surrounding Romanée-Conti. The price of this tiny, treasured vineyard was 80,000 livres, which in those days was worth a small kingdom. Reclaimed as a property of the nation during the Revolution, the vineyard passed through the hands of several proprietors to an ancestor of the present owner for 14,000 gold pounds in 1868. In June 1940, began the journey of 16-year-old André Noblet from the estate’s cellar caretaker to chief winemaker. The timing was not exactly favourable for the young man as, by July of the same year, France was occupied by Germany. This single-minded and intelligent young man wanted to learn all there was to know about the making of the estate’s wines as quickly as possible and Louis Clin did not spare his efforts, time or knowledge when it came to this eager and gifted youth. As early as 1946, André vinified his first wines under Mr. Clin’s supervision and finally took over complete responsibility the estate’s wines after the after the his mentor. Taster’s comment: There was a tie for the best wine of the day between the 1941 DRC Richebourg and 1931 Niepoort Garrafeira Port (97 points). The Richebourg set the bar high early, as it was a wild and wet Burgundy with a ‘crazy good’ nose. There was superhero-like fruit here with rose and cherry leading, but also a tropical and foresty mix that exuded incredible complexity. There was a vimful spice of cedar meeting cabinet, and orange edges rounded out its abyss of a nose. The palate possessed incredible power and acidity; still so fresh and youthful. I was convinced it was from 1952, but I was a decade off. ‘Fantastic’ and ‘wow’ appeared in my notes multiple times, and mint, tomato and wild red fruits danced on the palate. This was an extraordinary wine. Taster’s comment: A moving experience. A lovely, delicate wine. Like fine lace. No power – just sweet and stylish. de la Romanée-Conti 97p 1941 Domaine Richebourg (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €1790 A2 1941 Almost black, intense, healthy Sound, rich, flavorful, exotic, cherry, cedary, complex, sweet Palate: Medium bodied, fresh acidity, round tannins, complex, youthful, powerful for death of Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict: Very long, seductive, rich, wide A throughly rich and pleasant mouthful Almost impossible to find 2 times, last in 5/2012 45 minutes 1.5 hour Now Sauteed wild boar None DRC La Tâche 1941 Even when the vintage was quite poor, DRC did it again – great wine from a great terroir. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 57

1942 82p 1942 1942 J-M Garnier Meursault (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Under €200 A2 Light, medium-intense, brownish Evolved, complex, mocha, nutty, roasted almonds Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Finish: Long, lingering, generous In a nutshell: A nice and vivid wine Buy or not: No, you can find better Meursaults than this Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Twice, last in 4/2012 10 minutes 15 minutes Now Grilled monkfish Low Inside information: The hailstorms during the harvest season lowered the quantity of the crop, but the quality was considered good. Or try this: For good quality Burgundy from this vintage, stick with DRC’s wines. €200 A2 Light, yellow, healthy Wide open, chewy, waxy, dried apricots, honeyed, minerals Palate: Medium-sweet, round, oily, energic, Palate: Dry, crisp, medium-bodied, vivid, one-dimensional 1943 Steinberger Auslese 91p 1943 Rheingau (Germany) nicely balanced, complex, attactive Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Surprisingly youthful and long Elegant wine, produced by women Yes 4 times, last in 5/2012 30 minutes 1 hour Now Smoked cod None Inside information: The vintage year 1943 is regarded as the best war vintage of prominent quality in Germany. This wine is a naturwein – not chaptalized or blended. Or try this: Victory Champagne Bollinger 1945 Final verdict: Warchild Final verdict: Not a wine to embrace but definitely a well-kept Meursault from this difficult, war-time vintage. Taster’s comment: Very good light and fresh colour. Vigorous, crisp, creamy wine with gentle oaky nose. Quite full and masculine, finish wasn´t exactly short but somehow too soft, almost hidden and bland. Very good but didn’t have quite the grace for great. 87p 1946 1946 Château Gruaud-Larose (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €422 A2 Bright, cherry-red, healthy Medium-intense, lean, blackcurrants, coffee, thyme, sound Palate: Medium-bodied, refined structure, gentle tannins, light fruit, cappuccino Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Long, tannin-dominated, spicy Over the hill, but still alive and kicking No Twice, last in 4/2012 20 minutes 20 minutes Now Smoked monkfish with creamed chantarelles Fake factor: Low Inside information: A mediocre vintage. A few hot days during the summer were not sufficient to make a good vintage, especially when the autumn rains diluted the crop. Or try this: Inglenook Cask Cabernet Sauvignon 1946 Final verdict: One of the best claret of this year. 58 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Taster’s comment: White Bordeaux was my first guess when it came to the third white in this flight, as there were mature glue aromas, along with honeycomb and a bit of bikini wax. Its palate had lanolin, minerals and dry white fruit flavours, and more honeycomb. It was long, balanced and pretty, and I was impressed by this wine. It was amazing how Riesling and white Bordeaux flirt with each other after a lot of bottle age. The eagle eye In 1775, Chevalier de Gruaud bought a number of small vineyards to form one large vineyard. As an employer, Monsieur Gruaud was strict – to keep an eye on his labourers and to make sure that they were hard at work, he kept watch over the property from the Château tower. Woe betide those whom he found lazing in the vineyard or raising a bottle to their mouth! After each harvest he indicated by means of flags what type of wine had been made: the German flag meant a supple wine, the British flag a forward wine and the Dutch flag something in between. This was a clever idea at a time when national tastes were more differentiated than in our time. In 1946 the flag should have been Dutch. 1946 had generally poor weather throughout the entire growing period. There were cold, wet periods and dry spells, then more rain and finally adequate weather towards September and during the harvest. Quality was nevertheless badly affected by the vagaries of the climate.

The A++ list Bodegas Vega Sicilia is still “a prophet in its own land” and only a small part of the production leaves the country to be sold abroad. Unico is a unique wine and one of the great Spanish classics. Its production varies from 30,000 to 100,000 bottles depending on the year. It is the signature wine of Vega Sicilia and is taken from some of the oldest vines available. The wine is mostly Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. The commercial success of Unico is decided beforehand regardless of the amount produced as each vintage is already sold out before bottling. Seven hundred people are currently on Unico’s customer list with each one hoping that some of the long-standing customers will give up their place or forget to order anything for two years which automatically strikes them off this privileged list. The subscriber list never exceeds 4,000 and they naturally remain anonymous. Pablo Alvarez, manager of Vega Sicilia, is conscientious when it comes to impartiality towards long-standing loyal customers even though the balance between the company’s firm commercial policy and influential quarters from outside the customer list who want wines is not easy to maintain. For example, when Queen Elizabeth II visited Spain some years ago, the British Embassy wanted Vega Sicilia to represent Spain’s wine tradition at the dinner arranged to honour the Queen. Although the order had been placed with a decent amount of notice, the estate was able to deliver only four cases for the dinner – albeit with all manner of apologies for not having been able to meet the order in full. 92p 1944 1944 Vega Sicilia Unico (Spain) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: €2680 A2 Garnet, brownish, sound Open, candylike, spicy, earthy, porty Ample, balanced, medium-full, finegrained tannin, a bit narrow, ripe Finish: Spicy, medium-long, warming In a nutshell: Not as great as we hoped Buy or not: No, you should rather buy 1941 or 1942 at half of the price Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: 4 times, last in 2010 Taster’s comment: 1944 Unico – just this first smell and everyone around the table is intrigued, big time! The caramel marmalade, coffee and dried cedar all tell us we are in Spain – especially JanErik, because his radar is tuned to shoot down Spanish bogies. The nose is similar to the 1925 Marqués de Riscal we had earlier, but this gorgeous wine is in a whole different echelon of quality. The colour is blackcurrant juice-like, with lightly browning edges. Then to the tongue... this is the 40s or 50s because of the softness of the tannins, but that is serious density. This wine was a monster in its youth and you can tell it was more rustic during its past, like an older gentleman who was really muscular and buccaneering when he was young. This is classy panache all the way... then the wine is revealed to be the 1944 Vega Sicilia Unico. The bottle is war-time green glass, and to think that this was crafted while Franco ruled Spain. This is drinking history! Taster’s comment: My biggest misfire of the weekend was when I convinced myself the next wine was a 1982 Bordeaux, when, in fact, it was a 1944 Vega Sicilia Unico. The wine was elegant and creamy, sensual with its nut, cassis, plum, cedar, smoke, pencil...‘all the classics’. The stewed rhubarb, along with the ‘green oats,’ should have sent me elsewhere. This super fresh bottle was very dry and very flamboyant. 1 hour 1 hour Now Vitello Tonnato None Inside information: The Ribera del Duero has a continental climate with an Atlantic influence. Rainfall is low, with annual averages below 500 mm, concentrated especially in spring and autumn. Sunshine, which is high extensive and abundant, reaches annual averages of 2200 hours, and the River Duero favours the morning mists and fogs that provide an additional source of humidity. Or try this Biondi-Santi Riserva 1945 Final verdict: Getting too pricey. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 59 F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1944 Vega Sicilia Unico

1945 1945 Comte de Vogüé Musigny An exceptional vintage amid exceptional destruction France was in ruins after the Second World War and the damage was much greater than in 1918. The cost of the German invasion had been high on every level: 55,000 factories destroyed, 140,000 farms devastated and 2,000,000 homes reduced to ruins. Also 75,000 bridges had been damaged and most of the railway network disrupted. Inflation was high and industrial production was now only half of the already weak level of 1938. A slow recovery had begun, however, and the winegrowers got a good start in the form of a spectacular 1945 vintage that was superb in all the French wine areas. In Burgundy, the crop was small but of extremely good quality. Musigny Grand Cru which produces one of the best grapes in the entire region has a terroir that is much more complex than Clos de Vougeot that lies just below it. Musigny is known for its super elegant and feminine characteristics but this hot vintage gave this fine “lady” some extra muscle that has given it an extra dimension and structure. Musigny is one of the two Grands Crus of Chambolle-Musigny. It is located on a hillside, south of Chambolle-Musigny, with a southeastern exposure. It lies in the middle of the slope where the soil produces an optimal balance of structure and elegance. The limestone soil gives a high initial acidity, bringing a supreme elegance and an aromatic purity and finesse to the Musigny. The soil really speaks through the vine and the wine and emphasises in the wine’s delicacy, finesse, elegance and fragrance, at the expense of weight, muscle, size and overwhelming tannins, but combines the above with power, intensity, grip, depth and complexity. Musigny is the pinnacle and probably the most sought-after. It hides a great underlying power and strength and is the proverbial “iron fist in a velvet glove”. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé has remained, through inheritance, in the same family since 1450. Twenty generations enlarged and enriched this family estate, whose stewardship continues with Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, the grand-daughters of the legendary Comte Georges de Vogüé, who inherited the estate in 1925 and ran it for over 50 years. 60 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

1930 < Astronomers discover Pluto, the ninth planet < Stalin begins collectivising agriculture in the USSR 1931 < The Empire State building is completed, and is the world’s tallest building < Auguste Piccard reaches the stratosphere < The Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dali paints “The Persistence of Memory” (the melting watches) at the age of 27 1932 < Scientists split the atom < Air conditioning is invented < The first “Tarzan the Ape Man” movie, starring Olympic gold medal swimmer Johnny Weissmuller, is released 1933 < Adolf Hitler, Führer of the Nazi party, is appointed chancellor of Germany < The first Nazi concentration camp is established < Prohibition ends in the USA < The Loch Ness Monster is first spotted < Wiley Post flies around the world in 8½ days 1934 < Mao Zedong begins the Long March north with 100,000 soldiers < The cheeseburger is created < Bonnie and Clyde are killed by police 1935 < Persia becomes Iran < Alcoholics Anonymous is founded 96p F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1929 < Stock markets crash around the world, marking the “Great Depression” < The independent Vatican City is established < Stalin orders the persecution of “kulaks”, causing the death of 6.5 million peasants < Hergé’s comic strip “Tintin” debuts < The first Academy Awards are presented 1945 1945 Comte de Vogüé Musigny (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €2428 A1 Light, intense, ruby Fine nose with cassis, dark chocolate, a bit minty, fragrant, ripe Pinot Palate: Elegant yet powerful, well-balanced, multi-layered, great dept and structure, fresh Finish: Silky, sensual, prolonged In a nutshell: As one of our guests said: “This is a sexual and sensual experience” Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Yes 13 times, last in 5/2012 45 minutes 1 hour Now to 2025 Braised fillet of venison Big – be aware big lots and surprisingly low prices Inside information: The Vogüé domaine is one of the very few estates in the whole of France, which have survived in the same hands since the middle ages. The 12.5 hectare domaine includes 7.12 hectare of Le Musigny. Or try this DRC La Tâche 1945 Final verdict: A curiously overhelming wine. Taster’s comment: Oh my goodness, this wine is the most incredible creature I have ever encountered. Nothing has ever made me as emotional like this before in the wine world, or the actual world except for the feeling of love. I can literally feel the oxytocin pumping out from my brain as I forge a love bond with this vulnerable and elegant woman of a wine. The colour is so light and watery, but that IS the magic of this wine, and why it must be a very pure-blooded red Burgundy as I get the first whiff... the breeding here is the top of the species; there is an energy at rest here in this glass that I have never smelled before. The aroma is only similar in excitement to pure gardenia flower or night jasmine, even though this is more of gently stewed rhubarb and strawberry compote it still arouses me like fine female perfume. And now the mouth... I could never have imagined what someone meant by “wine making you want to make love to an imaginary woman” until this moment. This is a sexual, sensual experience because the mouthfeel is a dancing and hovering volume that has a “calming heaviness and fully palate coating sateen sheet of smoothness”... at the same time, how is this possible? Having a wine like this almost brings a tear to my eyes... because it represents all that is true and pure and fragile and beautiful about life. Wow! When we see this is in fact the ‘45 Vogüé Musigny in Drouhin bottling, we are all overwhelmed by the privilege of being able to taste this allegorical and mythical goddess of wine! Taster’s comment: Delicate, long, charming. Am I starting to like Burgundy? FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 61

1947 1947 Château Cheval Blanc When and where nature reigns Whether by design or by pure chance, there are exceptional places in the world – and Cheval Blanc, without doubt, is one of them. Combining unique soil with a symbiotic mix of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, Cheval Blanc produces a wine which has the rare quality of being good at any age. It is certainly one of the most consistent wines in the world. In the 18th century, a large area of the current estate of Cheval Blanc was covered in vines. It is said that on the place where the Blanc-painted building now stands, there used to be a modest post house where horses could be changed. It appears that the legendary King Henry IV once stopped there on his way from Paris to Pau, his birthplace, because he wanted to change his tired horses, traditionally always Blanc, to new ones. His habit of riding with only Blanc horses was well known, and this blessed, tiny post house was the only place in St. Emilion that had such noble creatures. After that the inn, which saved the King, was naturally called Cheval Blanc, or white horse. A century later the estate was bought by the Fourcaud-Laussac family, and so began a slow renovation that included the acquisition, in 1871, of adjacent plots that would give the vineyard its definitive layout, as well as drainage improvements and the planting of the Cabernet Franc. After these changes, the wine of Cheval Blanc achieved a level of success, which was recognised with the top prizes in London (1862), Paris (1878) and Antwerp (1885). This fine reputation grew steadily throughout the 20th century under the ownership of the Fourcaud-Laussac family. In 1998, the estate was sold to Mr Bernard Arnault and Baron Albert Frère. Cheval Blanc’s unique identity is due to its varied soils, earlyripening microclimate, the percentage of Cabernet Franc in the vineyard and the close proximity of the finest wines of Pomerol. 62 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1936 < The Spanish Civil War begins < The Nazi Olympics are held in Berlin < King Edward VIII abdicates as King of Great Britain to marry the woman he loves, Mrs. Wallis Simpson < The BBC debuts the world’s first television service with three hours of programming a day < The electric guitar makes its first appearance < The first successful helicopter flight is made 1937 < The Hindenburg airship explodes after a three-day trip across the Atlantic < Walt Disney’s first fulllength animated feature, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, hits theatres and becomes an instant classic 1938 < The Night of Broken Glass (Kristallnacht) takes place < Volkswagen introduces the Beetle 1939 < Arguably the finest year of Hollywood movie making. Films like Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz are produced < The first commercial flight over the Atlantic < World War II begins < Robert Kane introduces the Batman cartoon 1940 < Winston Churchill becomes Britain’s Prime Minister < Stone Age cave paintings are found in France < Nylon hits the market 1941 < The Japanese attack Pearl Harbor, which leads to the USA joining World War II < The first Jeep rolls out 1942 < Nazi leaders coordinate the Holocaust < The T-shirt is introduced 1947 98p 1947 Château Cheval Blanc (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €4800 A1 Deep, very dark, mature, promising Sound, open, Chocolaty, leathery, portlike, sweet, rich, mocha, spices, pepper Palate: Rich, exciting, full-bodied, perfect balance, feminine, smooth tannins Finish: Super long, silky, flavorful, lingering, thrilling In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Can’t live without it or with it Sure bet 64 times, last time 5/2012 1.5 hour 2 hours Now to 2025 Less food the better wine is Very high – especially among Van der Meulen and other negociant –bottlings. Also quite a few fake magnums and bigger size fakes are around. Be very careful. Inside information: The Cheval Blanc 1947 has been tasted by us on more than 60 occasions, but it has scored a faultless 100 points only 31 times. Its track-record falls below the Latour 1961s and Mouton 1945s mostly because there are so many variable négociant bottlings available. And regrettably there are also quite a few frauds around. The Cheval Blanc 1947 was made from exceptionally ripe grapes with remarkably high sugar content. The blend is about two-thirds Cabernet Franc and one-third Merlot. The harvest was delayed until the last moment raising the alcohol content to 2% above normal. Final verdict: A perfect out-of-this-world experience Taster’s comment: Combining unique soil with a symbiotic mix of Cabernet Franc and Merlot grape varieties, Cheval Blanc produces a wine that has the rare quality of being good at any age. It is, without doubt, one of the most consistent wines in the world. 1943 < Italy joins the Allies < The Warsaw ghetto uprising occurs < The Battle of Stalingrad ends with the retreat of the German Army FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 63

1948 1948 Château Léoville-Barton 94p 1948 1948 Château Léoville-Barton (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €745 A2 Garnet red, profound, gifted Fleshly, open, captivating, dark chocolate, red fruit dried herbs, cedary, cinnamon, earthy Palate: Medium-bodied, good balance, powerful, rich, ripe, alcoholic, tannic, multi-layered, tough Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Long, macho, multi-layered, prominent A rough diamond Absolutely – a great character 16 times, last in 5/2012 45 minutes 1 hour Now to 2020 Sirloin steak Very low Inside information: In 1948 they made perhaps the best Léoville-Barton ever. It was also the year when Anthony Barton made his first trip to Bordeaux. Or try this: Château Léoville-Barton 1945 Final verdict: A true classic. Taster’s comment: Very ripe, concentrated and earthy nose. Full and firm and still quite tannic on the palate. Some soft oak. Very good grip, remarkable depth and flavors that open and open endlessly. This is and will be a very voluptuous wine. Perhaps one of the best Leoville-Barton ever! 64 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 1944 < The Allies invade Normandy on D-Day < The Baltic states are annexed by the Soviet Union < The world’s monetary system is anchored to the dollar and the dollar to gold 1945 < The US drops atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki < Hitler commits suicide, Benito Mussolini and Franklin Roosevelt die < End of World War II < The Potsdam Conference divides Europe into Western and Soviet blocs < The Holocaust ends after more than 12 million deaths, including 6 million Jews < The United Nations is founded < The first computer is built (ENIAC) 1946 < Winston Churchill gives his “Iron Curtain” speech warning of Soviet expansion < The Cannes Film Festival debuts in France < Bikinis are first worn 1947 < Pétrus is served at the wedding of Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip < India gains independence from the British Empire and Pakistan splits from India < Robert M. Parker is born in Baltimore, Maryland < Jews are granted their own country in Palestine, Israel < The Dead Sea Scrolls are discovered at Qunran < Mobile phone, polaroid camera and microwave oven are invented 1948 < Mahatma Gandhi is assassinated < The policy of apartheid begins < Columbia Records introduces the LP record 1949 < NATO is established < George Orwell publishes Nineteen Eighty-Four < The Communist People’s Republic of China is proclaimed by Chairman Mao Zedong

F I N E C e n t u r y Ta s t i n g 1949 Dom Pérignon Celebrate The monk, Pierre Pérignon is said to have been a learned man, intelligent, broad-minded, warmhearted and punctual, both in his religious and other duties. He was modest in character and way of life – an honourable man, small in size but with a big heart of gold. Such respect did he engender that when new bells were installed in the church of Hautvillers in 1706, his name was engraved on the largest. It was customary at the time to dedicate new church bells to the incumbent bishop and two other persons of note. As a winemaker, Dom Pérignon was a legend and no less celebrated as a man. At the beginning of the 18th century the name of Dom Pérignon was so well-known that even many Frenchmen thought it to be a village or a monastery and searched for it on the map. Today, his name remains just as famous and is a symbol for genuine and sophisticated champagne all over the whole world. 95p 1949 1949 Dom Pérignon (France) Average auction price: Bottle condition: Colour: Nose: €1032 A2 Opaque, clear Perfumed, adjusted, sweet, chocolate, coffee, ripe peach, honey Palate: Direct, well-balanced, medium intense, silk, complicated, medium-full Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Lengthy, clean, appetising Should be better If you find a perfect bottle – yes. 11 times, last in 5/2012 15 minutes 45 minutes Asap Deserves to be enjoyed on its own None Inside information: For all the vintages before the 1943 vintage, Dom Pérignon was produced from regular Moët & Chandon vintage champagne that was transferred to the special 18th Century-style bottles after extended cellaring. From the 1947 vintage, Dom Pérignon has been produced independently from the start. Or try this: Bollinger Vintage 1949 Final verdict: From perfect bottle, this should easily be over 95 points wine – with champagnes at this glorious age you need luck – a lot of it. Taster’s comment: 1949 Dom Pérignon – my favorite Champagne and the year I was born – wine that could only improve with the company it was enjoyed with. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 65

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COLUMN JOHN KAPON DuelLing HautBrions T wo wines from 1989 stand above all the others on the Left Bank: the duelling Haut-Brions, as I often like to call them. Even though these two legendary wines have the same owners, the wines could not be any more different. There is one important fact, though, that is the same for both these beauties: they are essentials for the cellar of any serious claret collector, as they are monuments to their category. The greatest quality these two wines possess is their consistency. While many Bordeaux shut down and go into a shell, they have both been rock stars from the very beginning, always drinking phenomenally. My most recent bottle of 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion was a perfect example of this wine. Its nose was black and chocolaty, with midnight fruit and some slightly salted mixed nuts for added complexity. There was classic cassis and cigar, with caramel and some charcoal. Its fruit was beyond rich, to the point where it appeared wealthy. Pencil really came out on the palate along with dense forest flavours and a slatey, dry finish. There was outstanding acidity to this dense 128 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA wine, while secondary flavours of coffee and blueberry soon joined the party. My host commented that he has always liked the ’89 La Miss more ‘right now’ rather than the wine to which it is often compared, the 1989 Haut-Brion (97). The 1989 Haut-Brion was served next, right on cue. I have long and repeatedly extolled the virtues of this wine, but it never gets old. This wine is one of the greatest ever made –

FINE Kapon so much so that I would put it in my top ten of all-time, and for a wine this young that is saying something. There is no other young wine, with the exception of 1989 Pétrus, that has consistently shown this well every time I have tasted it, and I have had the pleasure of consuming this wine nearly twenty times. Its aromas were ‘insane’ and open yet reticent, and so seductive it could have been standing behind a lace curtain. There was an abundance of nuts and minerals along with endless length and poise. Finally, carob and spice emerged in this incredible wine (99). I have the good fortune of having 1989 Haut Brion almost quarterly, so I could fill the next two pages with other notes on the wine. The La Mission is indeed more forward and exuberant, spilling out of its shirt so to speak, but the Haut-Brion will never even let you see a wrinkle. They are both magnificent wines that should age effortlessly well beyond 2040. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 129

CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC – A THOROUGHBRED OF THE WINE WORLD Pekka Nuikki & Uwe Kauss Pekka Nuikki & Johannes Grau Despite the icy wind and lashing rain, a large group of villagers had gathered on the narrow streets of Saint-Emilion to receive Henry IV, King of France. He was expected to stop at the village on his way from Paris to his birthplace of Pau. The weather conditions and the long journey were taxing, however, and the exhausted horses in the King’s retinue had to be replaced. The King’s famous pedantry threatened to ruin the expedition, as he would only accept a white horse for his steed. Luckily, one was found: the only white horse in the area lived in the stables of a small inn five kilometres from the centre of Saint-Emilion. The owner of the inn gave the horse to the King as a present, and so the journey could continue through the village. The horse became legendary as the white steed of King Henry IV, and was immortalised in many paintings and sculptures. The origins of the story are difficult to trace, but it is probably no coincidence that 250 years later, those stables became the site of a vineyard named 24 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Cheval Blanc – White Horse. Today, the white steed carries a new king: Pierre Lurton, who is adorned with the golden crown of Château d’Yquem.

F I N E Estate FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 25

Pierre Lurton 26 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Estate CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC – A THOROUGHBRED OF THE WINE WORLD Pierre Lurton’s fate was decided many generations ago. It is said that only in the mafia are family bonds stronger than in the wine industry. The wine world is dominated by many families with histories that stretch back hundreds of years. In the Bordeaux region alone there are several dynasties that control many vineyards and large wine wholesalers. However, only a handful of families still run the same wineries they did in the early nineteenth century; almost all the estates in Bordeaux changed owners during the 1900s. Global financial crises, wars and a series of poor vintages, especially in the 1930s, fuelled changes in ownership. Many family businesses that were established as wine wholesalers enjoyed greater financial stability than plain winegrowers did. In bad times, some of them managed to buy estates that had fallen into financial difficulties, often for a bargain. Many of today’s most prosperous wine families are descended from large banking or wine merchant families, whose wealth allowed them to transition into the winegrowing business. The Lurton family is one of the most renowned and largest of such families. The Lurtons arrived in Bordeaux in the late 1800s. They acquired their first vineyard, Château Brane-Cantenac in Margaux, in the 1930s. The then head of the family, François Lurton, also acquired a significant stake in the celebrated Château Margaux. He later traded that for the Clos Fourtet winery in Saint-Emilion. Although Pierre Lurton’s great-uncles André and Lucien only had access to limited capital, they confidently bought more than a dozen vineyards in the years following the Second World War. Many of the estates were in poor condition, deeply scarred by the War, the economic crisis and the devastating frosts of 1956. Therefore they were sold cheaply, and, to André and Lucien’s great fortune, later turned out to be real goldmines. André Lurton, who owned six estates, Jean LaussacFourcaud can be credited for instance with planting Cabernet Franc in the vineyards in 1870. had seven children. His brother Lucien had around ten estates and as many descendants. The cousins grew directly into the family’s wine business, and soon there was talk of a Lurton family empire, so powerful were they in Bordeaux. Today the family controls more than twenty-five châteaux in the region. Pierre, the son of Dominique Lurton, is today the most renowned member of the family, and for good reason. He manages the world famous estates Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem. Pierre took over the reins of the Château Cheval Blanc estate and wines in 1991. He describes his demanding task as follows: “All the Lurtons are in the wine business, and they have spread out around the world. I am related to most of my business partners. I have long worked in close contact with my father and my uncle, and they have taught me diplomacy and care above all, because our family tree is very complex. Although I deal with my relatives, I have to be very tactful.” Cheval Lurton Blanc before In 1832, the prospects were poor for the Figeac vineyard in Saint-Emilion. Madame Félicité de Carle-Trajet signed an agreement to hand over 16.3 hectares of gravelly land to the Ducasse family. As a widow, she paid a high price for her late husband’s mistakes. On the brink of bankruptcy, she was forced to give up their once magnificent wine estate piece by piece. It was now in a terrible state, with many buildings collapsed and several other corn varieties being cultivated there besides wine. In the early 1800s, Figeac was the most renowned vineyard in Bordeaux, together with Haut-Brion. The poor widow would scarcely have been comforted by the knowledge that her actions would give rise to a new success story, with Ducasse and his sons-in-law as the pioneers. Ducasse began by having a castle built on the land, and later extended the plot by a further 15.4 hectares. After this, the estate’s muddy, gravelly and waterlogged soil was dried to improve the quality of its wines. Ducasse continued to sell his wines under the Figeac name until 1853, FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 27

“Although my job involves all of the duties included in managing the vineyards, I feel I am a winemaker above all.” 28 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Estate FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 29

“My main aim for the near future is to maintain the Cheval Blanc character and style” when the first bottles of Cheval Blanc were launched on the market. Son-inlaw Jean Laussac-Fourcaud continued Ducasse’s praiseworthy efforts in quality development. He can be credited for instance with planting Cabernet Franc in the vineyards in 1870, which has since become an essential part of the Cheval Blanc identity. Having later changed his name to Fourcaud-Laussac, Jean became internationally recognised at the London and Paris fairs of 1862 and 1867. The diplomas received at those fairs still have 30 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The estate only produces approximately thirty-five hectolitres per hectare. pride of place on the Cheval Blanc label. Despite this acknowledgement, it would take another fifty years for Cheval Blanc to become truly world-famous. A star is born Although Cheval Blanc had received recognition at international fairs, it was by no means among the most esteemed wines in Bordeaux. The famous classification of 1855 had mercilessly left all the right-bank estates in the shadow of Médoc, Graves and Sauternes. After the ownership changes and a later infestation of phylloxera, Figeac was but a shadow of its former self. Belair and the historic Ausone, which had once again shot to fame, were the only prominent wineries on the right bank. The 1921 vintage changed everything, however. The extremely hot year produced two legendary wines: Château d’Yquem and Cheval Blanc, both of which trumped all other Bordeaux

An exception without compare Since 1921, Cheval Blanc has asserted itself as one of the most eminent SaintEmilion wines. However, it is much more than that; it is the only top wine from Bordeaux that uses a majority of Cabernet Franc grapes in its blend, and as such it is also the most prestigious Cabernet Franc wine in the world. The Cheval Blanc wines are exceptional in that their character is more reminiscent of Pomerol than Saint-Emilion. In the light of these factors, Cheval Blanc is truly an exception without compare among Bordeaux reds. This was noted by the world’s seventh-richest man and owner of the LVMH holding company, Bernard Arnault, together with his Belgian business partner, Baron Albert Frère. In 1998, they acquired the vineyard for around 155 million euros from the Fourcaud-Laussac family, in whose ownership it had been since 1832. Now Arnault owns both of the wineries responsible for those legendary 1921 vintages, Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem. He has put his righthand man Pierre Lurton in charge of the operations of both. Terrazas de los Andes in Argentina. Lurton still considers his most important task to be supervising operations on the estates and working in the wine cellar: “Although my job involves all of the duties included in managing the vineyards, I feel I am a winemaker above all.” Lurton has mixed feelings about the price trend. The Cheval Blanc estate employs five senior oenologists who look after approximately 6000 cases of Cheval Blanc and 2500 cases of the estate’s number two wine, Petit Cheval, produced each year. Lurton stresses the importance of the soil and explains that the operations in the cellar are simply fine-tuning. “Cheval Blanc does not follow trends or bow to fly-by-night wine gurus. Cheval Blanc is timeless, produced using traditional craftsmanship. We believe that it is not enough for a truly great wine to be excellent; it must also have a personality that makes it unique. This means that a brilliant wine cannot be made by closely following instructions from a manual. Naturally the winemaking operations in the cellar are important, but the character and personality of the wine come from the terroir. The terroir consists of the combined effects of the soil, the local climate and the vines,” Lurton says. “They will think I have gone somewhat crazy” A new king Multilayered The first thing you notice about Pierre Lurton is his unruly, boyish presence that exudes energy. This energy is essential, because in addition to Cheval Blanc and Yquem, he produces other wines, including Cheval des Andes, which are made from Malbec grapes at his Bodega Behind Cheval Blanc’s unique character and blend lies a multilayered soil base in which Cabernet Franc thrives better than anywhere else. The 41-hectare estate is located on a gravelly plain on the northwestern edge of Saint-Emilion, and flanks the legendary region of Pomerol. Its closest neighbours are L’Evangile and Le Conseillante, while Pétrus is just a stone’s throw away. The earth comprises three different ground types. On the surface are sand and gravel, which are low-nutrient materials. Below these, at a depth of 80– 90 cm, is ferrous clay. In some parts of the vineyards, there is still a multilayered gravelly soil stratum beneath this. The large number of stones on the surface of the earth trap warmth and thus guarantee the ideal ripening of the grapes, even in cooler weather. “At Cheval Blanc, it is a combination of gravelly topsoil and heavy, clay-based soil deeper down. The gravel content gives the wine its refined nature, whereas the clay provides its ‘fullbodiedness’ and velvety tannins. The great Cheval Blanc is born out of the combination of these two soil types,” Lurton explains. The warmth of the soil ripens the grapes relatively early. This supports the use of later grape varieties such as the tannin-rich Cabernet Franc rather than the early-ripening Merlot. Just over one half of the cultivated area on the Cheval Blanc estate grows Cabernet Franc, while a bit less has Merlot. In addition, around one per cent of the acreage consists of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. “My main aim for the near future is to maintain the Cheval Blanc character and style while increasing its quality by limiting the harvest and further specifying the choice of grapes,” Lurton says. Quality assurance at Cheval Blanc is maintained by restricting yields to the low quantity of 35 hl/ha. This is achieved thanks to the older-than-average 33-yearold vines, with minimal use of natural fertilisers and by grafting the vines onto low-yield Riparia rootstock. Yields are kept low using the Guyot Simple single-cane vine training system, in which the number of flowers is lower than average. In very sunny and warm crop years, the vines must FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA F I N E Estate wines. With this vintage, Cheval Blanc rose to the vanguard of great Bordeaux wines and achieved star status, especially on the British market, where its breakthrough was down to one man in particular. Wine Director Michael Broadbent of Christie’s declared Cheval Blanc the best red wine of 1921. 31

be thinned out in order to maintain quality. Lurton has also made development efforts in the production process. Fermentation takes place at a temperature of 30–32 degrees Celsius and the temperature is allowed to fall naturally without artificial regulation towards the end of the fermentation process. During the initial stages of fermentation, Lurton uses the pumpingover method for both colour extraction and in order to prevent reductive aromas from building up. After fermentation, skin extraction continues for three weeks before pressing. The extraction time is based on the amount of extraction agents formed in the grapes, and is decided after tasting by a jury. The jury includes former management members from the estate, who have solid experience of various vintages of Cheval over the decades. For pressing, Lurton’s team has, after numerous tests, found old-fashioned hydraulic presses to be preferable to the pneumatic alternatives. They found that their wine tasted better before blending when it came from a pneumatic press rather than a hydraulic press, yet after blending, the hydraulically pressed wine was surprisingly of much higher quality. After blending, the wine matures in French oak barrels, of which only some are new; this is to ensure that that the oak does not overshadow the terroir. We love oak In the cellar, several rows of piled-up barriques stand on the ochre-coloured floor. They contain everything that will go into the 2008 vintage of Cheval Blanc. “Our technique is very traditional, even old-fashioned,” explains winemaker Pierre Olivier Clouet almost apologetically. The young winemaker studied agriculture in Normandy, after which he qualified in 32 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA winemaking from the esteemed Ecole du Vin in Bordeaux. He was recruited as an oenologist by Cheval Blanc immediately after graduation, which is a remarkable achievement. “The vineyards are divided into 32 plots whose aromas vary significantly due to the different soil compositions,” he says. “The grapes from each plot are fermented separately in their own tanks, and the oenologists do not decide which plot’s wine to use for the Cheval Blanc blend, and in what proportions, until after the winemaking process.” “The building will meld into the surrounding landscape, but it will stand out as something completely new and previously unseen in this region,” The estate only produces approximately thirty-five hectolitres per hectare, so the vines must be cut during the summer to restrict the crop. The wine matures in new French oak barrels for 20 months, in order to develop its characteristic structure and tannins. “We love oak,” Clouet confesses. “During fermentation and ageing, wine samples are only pumped out once or twice, and even that is done very carefully to prevent oxidation.” This handcrafted process has its price, but the end product is worth it. It makes the wines more intense and complex. The blend is made after two months of barrel ageing, as a team effort between the oenologists and Managing Director Lurton. “There are no guidelines for the proportions of grape varieties in the wine. Nor is the quantity of finished wine decided in advance. At the end, all that matters is that the wine is a typical Cheval Blanc,” Clouet says. After this, the cuvée is aged in wooden barrels for another year. Once the label is afixed, the price of the bottle can exceed 400 euros, depending on the vintage. The subscription price for 2006 was 480 euros, while the price for the 2007 vintage is already around 500 euros. Lurton has mixed feelings about the price trend. “Price inflation has been a problem for the most renowned wines. Of course I understand you have to pay for a quality wine. Cheval Blanc, for example, is clearly a luxury product – very expensive and rare. However, it is not my aim to produce a wine that is objectified and used as a bargaining chip by investors. We produce wine for people to drink; it’s that simple. I do understand that the price is an inevitable consequence of the quality and desirability of our wines, but we will not change our style just to receive better scores from critics. Many critics seem to like our style of winemaking, and this naturally leads to our products being traded in auctions,” Lurton says. Lingering aftertaste Cheval Blanc is a name that awakens the interest of any wine enthusiast, and has done for 80 years. It has enjoyed many legendary vintages, the best so far being 1921, 1947, 1950 and 1982. The Cheval Blanc brand also became widely known to the public thanks to the

F I N E Estate CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC – A THOROUGHBRED OF THE WINE WORLD Alexander Payne film Sideways in 2004, which portrayed Cheval Blanc 1961 as the most precious wine in the universe. In the real wine world, however, that title belongs to the legendary Cheval Blanc 1947, which the world’s well-known wine critics place at the top of the world’s best wines ever produced, together with Margaux 1900 and Mouton Rothschild 1945. Pierre Lurton describes Cheval Blanc: “Cheval Blanc is a strong but not aggressive, mellow, silky, faultlessly elegant and sophisticated wine based on the essence of Cabernet Franc and coloured by Merlot. It is reminiscent of a Pomerol rather than a Saint-Emilion. Its crispness and cashmere-soft tannins make it age beautifully, and it only becomes more rich in nuances over time.” Technical Director Ken Van Leeuwen, who is in charge of the vineyards, goes on: “Although this wine is very attractive already when young, it has incredible development potential. The reason is probably the location next door to Pomerol. The fabulous, long and extremely refined aftertaste is the result of successfully ripened Cabernet grapes. The ultimate ambition in our entire winemaking process is to bring out these characteristics in the Cheval Blanc wines without any artificial tricks that might affect their character.” The symbol of a new Bordeaux Throughout our interview, the Cheval Blanc estate is enveloped by a strong, cool wind. It makes the vine leaves and tablecloths flutter day and night. This FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 33

climate keeps the grapes dry and healthy. The estate’s pale main building, dating from 1860, has narrow turrets and white shutters, and even includes its own little chapel. The buildings look much larger in real life than in photographs. Between the main building and the refined orangery are wooden chairs and light-coloured garden umbrellas. Behind the vineyards you can discern Château Figeac in Pomerol, whereas the roof that is visible behind the estate belongs to Château Pétrus. Perfectly manicured lawns and meticulously pruned orange trees, rose bushes and shrubs are surrounded by paths and courtyards covered in pale gravel that crunches underfoot. Alongside the road to Château Cheval Blanc stands a battered sign onto which someone long ago painted the name of this resplendent château. Following the sign, you arrive at the building’s security gate, which can only be opened with a code or by a security guard for those who have made a prior appointment. We arrived as agreed and now sit upstairs in Lurton’s office, which is decked out in light-coloured wood, enjoying the fantastic view from the windows. On the large desk there are folders, magazines and photocopies. From a plastic pocket in one of the folders, Lurton extracts a plan for renovating 34 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA the image of Saint-Emilion. He intends to build a new cellar for Cheval Blanc. “They will think I have gone somewhat crazy,” he says and tosses his head towards the surrounding estates that bathe in the evening sun. The building known as the chai, in which Clouet and his colleagues make the wines, is slated for demolition, in order to make way for a building the likes of which has not yet been seen in these parts. It has been designed by Parisian top architect Christian de Portzamparc, whose handiwork includes the new home of the Rio de Janeiro Philharmonic Orchestra, Cidade de Musica Hall, Luxembourg´s La Philharmonie Hall and, as it happens, a skyscraper owned by the LVMH Group in Manhattan. He also designed the French Embassy on Berlin’s Pariser Platz, so he is certainly not short of references. The question is how do you get such a renowned architect to design you a wine cellar? “Portzamparc’s cellar isn’t intended as a simple wine cellar; it will be the ‘symbol of a new Bordeaux’,” Lurton says solemnly. The two floors of the modern cellar will be placed within an artificial hillock. The top floor will hold steel vats for vinification, while the bottom floor will contain the oak barrels, which will be visible from above through a glass floor. Lurton hashed out all the details of the building – for example grape delivery and unloading, as well as the use of gravity rather than pumps – in numerous meetings with Portzamparc’s designers. The structure will also contain storage for old vintages and a tasting facility. Clearly visible from afar, this “symbol of the new Bordeaux” will look like a concrete ramp rising towards the skies. From its midpoint, the ramp twists around itself in a spiral. At the top edge there will be a roof terrace from which guests will be able to enjoy a breathtaking view of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. At the intersection point of the spiral there will be a terrace intended for private use by customers, where wine and food can be served directly from underground facilities. “The building will meld into the surrounding landscape, but it will stand out as something completely new and previously unseen in this region,” Lurton says. Such audacious architecture has indeed not yet been witnessed in Bordeaux; similar structures have thus far mainly been erected in Spain and on the other side of the ocean. The cost of the 7000-square-metre building and its surrounding parkland is estimated at 10 million euros. “A completely ordinary, well-equipped cellar would cost almost as much,” Lurton says. The owners have approved the budget and work has begun. The estimated date of completion is early 2011. The park and the viewing platform will be accessible for tourists interested in winemaking, and that will make this the first top-rated wine estate that opens its doors, at least partly, to the wider public. Even if the visitors cannot afford to buy the estate’s wines, they can peer into the cellar from above and witness it being produced. This will help to lift the veil off the legend – a legend that has unquestionably maintained its status as a fine wine for more than 150 years. >

by Pekka Nuikki 1911 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2010/now x 2 89 D 30 min / G 30 min 1926 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2005/now x 1 84 D 30 min / G 30 min Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) F I N E Estate Best Cheval Blanc Vintages 1928 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/now x 4 92 D 1 h / G 1 h 91 D1h/G1h 2005/now x 2 These two Belgian-bottled Cheval Blancs were in quite poor condition. No capsule and the levels were low-shoulder fill, but the price was also very low and worth a try. Moderately light and tawny-to-brown colour. Tobacco-like, spicy, slightly herbal and slightly oxidized nose. Sweet on the palate. Old but still energetic. A bit acidic and green but quite complex. Controversially, I liked it – most did not. Flavourful on entry but drying out at the finish. 1921 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2007/2015 x 4 100 D 30 min / G 1 h This is the vintage where Cheval Blanc made its reputation. Château-bottled, excellent condition with base neck level. Decanted only for 30 minutes (we simply could not wait any longer). A very dark but bright colour with some amber on the rim. Huge, immensely rich nose – opened immediately with lots of exotic fruit aromas, together with chocolate and coffee notes. An unbelievably rich and complex wine. Very thick, warm and multi-layered with sweet fruit and soft, melted tannins that follow all the way through. It was even better than the first tasting we had from a château-bottling magnum nine years previously. Heavier, richer and a more luscious wine than back then, and even at that time we thought it was masterpiece. The most recent encounter – another château-bottled magnum – was superior to the previous ones. It was more youthful, richer and had millions of layers, unbelievably. 1924 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/now x 3 93 D 1 h / G 1 h The 1924 vintage was only average on the Right Bank, although the summer was beautiful and there was hot weather during the harvest. Fine looking château-bottling. Level was top-shoulder. Decanted 30 minutes. A fine dark colour. Quite open and sound nose. A lighter wine than many others from 1924, but has a good medium-body and well-balanced structure. Not many tannins left and quite acidic, but nevertheless an attractive and smooth wine with a long and intense ending, which still drinks beautifully. Wonderful château-bottling. Level was upper low-shoulder. Decanted 30 minutes. Deep, bright and clean colour. Very intense and powerful nose with ripe blackberries, liquorice, spices and chocolate. The medium-bodied and soft palate is very concentrated. Great structure, with very ripe dark fruit, moderate-level acidity and ripe, smooth tannins. Lovely, refined complexity, derived from integrated toastiness. The finish is long and dry, with earthy and rustic flavours. This is still a delicate wine, although it passed its peak decades ago. 1929 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2007/now x 5 96 D 45 min / G 1 h The last time we drank this beautiful Cheval was during dinner at Domaine de Chevalier. We tasted it blind and it was somewhat uncomplicated to guess the vintage. It had all the characteristic sweetness and charm of the 1929 vintage. Still very fresh and lovely. Decanted one hour. Very harmonious and balanced. On the nose rich aromas of ripe fruit, tobacco and minerals. Full-bodied, with a fabulous balance of lovely, rich fruit flavours and silky texture, and just enough grip to keep it lively. Plenty of white chocolate and smooth coffee flavours on the finish. Drink now. 1931 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2006/now x 2 81 D 10 min / g 20 min 1934 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2008/now x 3 87 d 30 min / g 30 min FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 35

1938 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/now x 1 82 d 10 min / g 20 min 1943 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2010/now x 2 88 d 30 min / g 45 min 1944 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2004/now x 1 86 d 30 min / g 30 min 1945 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2010/now x 8 92 d 1 h / g 1.5 min 1947 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/2020 x 53 100 D 1.5 h / G 2 h The Cheval Blanc 1947 has been tasted by us on more than fifty occasions, but it has scored a faultless 100 points only 27 times. Its track record falls below the Latour 1961s and Mouton 1945s, mostly because there are so many variable négociant bottlings available. And regrettably there are also quite a few frauds around. The Cheval Blanc 1947 was made from exceptionally ripe grapes with remarkably high sugar content. The blend is about two-thirds Cabernet Franc and one-third Merlot. The harvest was delayed until the last moment, raising the alcohol content to two per cent above normal. 1949 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2008/2015 x 7 95 D 45 min / G 1.5 h A huge wine from this extreme vintage. A rainy and cold flowering period reduced the size of crop. An extreme heatwave shortly after that of 43C (109F), was followed by storms but ended in fine weather during the harvest. This was (once again) a superb Cheval Blanc vintage. Good château-bottling with upper-shoulder level. Decanted 45 minutes. Deep, intense and bright mahogany colour. Rich nose of ripe dark berries and plums, as well as spices with mineral tones. Very ripe fruit flavours provide an almost sweet sensation on the palate. Moderate acidity and ripe, soft tannins. Long, elegant and supple finish. Very appealing now but will keep for a few more years. 36 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 1950 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/2010 x 11 98 D 30 min / G 1 h 1950 is an underrated vintage in Bordeaux and in many cases rightly so. This was, however, an excellent vintage in Pomerol, St. Emilion and parts of Graves. The 1950 Cheval Blanc is very rich, concentrated and youthful. There are a number of different négociant-bottlings of this wine – most are very good. Needs only a short amount decanting time and should be drunk over an hour or so. This Nicolas-bottled Cheval was in mint condition. Level by the neck. Decanted for 30 minutes before tasting. What a colour – more bright and youthful than the 1982 Cheval. Very expansive and open nose with an exotic bouquet of ripe fruit, caramel, mint and cedar. The Cheval Blanc 1950 is still a gorgeously fruity, opulent and full wine with elegant and soft tannins. Extra long and multi-dimensional finish. Very hard to resist now, but should easily last through 2010, at least. 1952 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2008/2020 x 14 97 D 2 h / G 2 h This must be the best price-quality ratio Cheval Blanc that can be found. The vintage was very good overall in Bordeaux, but especially on the Right Bank. A warm spring and hot summer from June until the end of August ensured good vegetative growth to the vines. Only the cold September ruined the dreams of outstanding quality. This wine has been always delicious when tasted. The deep, clear brick-red colour already indicates the richness of the wine. The powerful yet elegant nose reveals ripe dark fruits: mainly blackcurrants, with dark chocolate, coffee and spices. Almost full-bodied taste, it is very opulent and fleshy with a velvety texture. The tannins are gentle but firm and the finish is very balanced. The wine is drinking perfectly now but has the qualities to keep for another decade. But why wait, since it definitely will not improve any further. 1953 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2008/2015 x 7 93 d 1 h / g 1.5 h 1955 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2005/2020 x 4 94 D 1 / G 3 h Very deep, clear-red colour. Intense and complex nose with some development. Fresh mint, dark chocolate, cassis and roasted coffee beans. Full-bodied taste with vividly pronounced acidity, meaty rich and ripe tannins and intense fruit of blackcurrants. Tremendously long finish with a robust and muscular edge. A very youthful and energetic wine that will last well over ten years. The ripeness of the wine, together with the minty and herbaceous aromas, is very much in common with the style of Heitz Martha’s Vineyard’s wines. It amazes with its youthful character.

1958 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2007/now x 1 88 d 45 min / g 1 h 1959 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2010/2015 x 13 95 D 1 h / G 2 h All four bottles were in excellent condition. Bottle by P. Bouillon. Decanted one hour. Deep, dark, brick-red nose. Very rich and ripe, fruity nose. Plums, dark fruits, spices, chocolate, coffee and toastiness. Full-bodied opulent palate with very ripe, dark fruitiness and round tannins. The high level of alcohol adds power and sweetness to the rich, spicy and toasty finish. Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 84 d 30 min / g 30 min 2005/now x 1 1961 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/2015 x 8 93 D 1 h / G 1 h Château-bottled. Good condition with by the neck level. Decanted one hour. Moderately intense, brick-red, bright colour. Nose delivers lots of green aromas – blackcurrant leaves, capsicum and mintiness. Refined, medium-bodied palate with sheer aristocracy. The highly-marked acidity is enhanced by the green aromas of the wine, which delicately highlight cedar and cigar box flavours and refined firm tannins. Very concentrated in style but reserved compared to the opulent and rich 1947. This wine definitely has style, but it will never grow as big and outstanding as the 1947, or even 1964. 1962 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/2015 x 6 91 d 1 h / g 1.5 h 1964 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2008/2020 x 12 95 D 1 h / G 2 h One of the biggest harvests since the Second World War, this wine is considered very good overall, especially in southern Médoc and on the Right Bank. Cheval Blanc was one of the most successful châteaux in Bordeaux during this year. Developing, moderately intense tawny colour. Opulent and restrained nose with sweet fruit tones, cedar and spices. Ripe tannins still have a good grip on the medium-bodied palate, as well as a mineral twist. A dose of volatile acidity adds a nice edge to the ripe fruit and delicate finish. The wine still performs nicely, and is chunky and elegant with a modest alcohol level of 12 per cent. F I N E Estate 1957 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2004/now x 2 86 d 30 min / g 45 min Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 91 D 1 h / G 1 h 2008/now x 5 Very good-looking bottle. Level was top-shoulder. Decanted 45 minutes. Good dense, bright colour. Very delicate, fragile nose. Ripe but not baked. A medium-bodied wine with some soft tannins and appealing fruit left. On the palate it is layered and quite intense but not as rich and complex as we expected. A gentle and somewhat tired aftertaste. Will not improve, but we are sure that perfectly stored bottles are still very worthy and will last well for another five years. Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 88 d 1 h / g 1 H 2009/now x 6 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 91 d 1 h / g 2 h 2010/2015 x 13 1974 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2006/now x 2 83 d 30 min / g 30 min 1975 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/now x 11 90 d 1 h / g 2 h 1978 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2007/now x 4 88 d 45 min / g 1 h FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 37

1981 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2008/2015 x 3 86 d 45 min / g 1 h 1994 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2007/2025 x 4 91 d 1.5 h / g 3 h 1982 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2010/2025 x 9 98 D 2.5 h / G 3 h 1995 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/2025 x 6 90 d 2 h / g 3 h This remarkable vintage generated perfect ripeness within all Cheval Blanc’s grape varieties: the blend had 60 per cent Cabernet Franc, 34 per cent Merlot, 1 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 4 per cent Malbec. This blend produced a wine of intensive cherry-red colour and an extremely elegant and charming complex nose of chocolate, mocha, ripe blackcurrants and hints of butterscotch. The medium-bodied palate is very delicate and classy, but still concentrated. A chewy wine with vivid acidity and minerality, with intense fruitiness supported by firm and ripe tannins. Roasted coffee and chocolate flavours dominate the long finish. The immense concentration and harmonious balance guarantee long ageing potential for this lovely wine. 1985 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2009/2020 x 6 90 d 2 h / g 2 h 1986 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 2006/2025 x 8 88 d 3 h / g 2.5 h Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 90 d 5 h / g 3 h 2006/2030 x 3 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 93 d 4 h / g 4 h 2009/2025 x 4 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 96 D 12 h / G 4 h 2009/2025 x 3 Opaque, purple colour. Opulent and intense, yet with a delicate nose of roasted coffee, toastiness and ripe dark fruits with floral tones. The medium-bodied palate charms with its delicacy – vivid acidity, firm refined tannins and intense dark fruitiness. The mid-palate shows complex spiciness and toasty oak aromas before it turns into a lingering, mineral finish with cassis and coffee flavours. Drinking delicately well already, although it will keep for decades in the cellar. Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 92 d 2 h / g 2 h 2009/2025 x 5 Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 92 d 12 h / g 6 h Château Cheval Blanc (St.Emilion) 98 D 3 h / G 3 h 2009/now x 6 Excellent magnum. Decanted for three hours. Opaque and dark ruby-red colour. Powerful yet discreet bouquet of ripe fruit, coffee, mint and mineral scents. Wonderfully rich, thick, powerful and concentrated wine with layer upon layer of ripe, exotic fruit. The 1990 Cheval is incredibly full-bodied, well-balanced, pure and perhaps slightly more tannic than the 1989. It has an excellent grip and a long, thrilling, fairly tannic finish. 38 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 2009/2035 x 2

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F I N E History c The Story of hampagne Part 3/3 Text: Jukka Sinivirta Champagne is an icon of Frenchness, and the love of the French for this wine is clear from the fact that the country consumes most of the champagne that is produced. Champagne is also a very technical wine, and modern know-how has made it more affordable than its illustrious past might warrant. Champagne arrived at its current form after two and a half centuries of development. S parkling champagne had conquered the courts of Europe by the mid-1700s, and huge quantities were consumed in the palaces of London, Vienna, Berlin and Madrid. Champagne sales more than doubled between 1740 and 1770. Exports of French wines grew significantly, although only some of them were sparkling. Most of the wines produced were still red wines, with non-sparkling, quality white wines favoured by gourmands, but in Paris the party would not get started without the popping of a cork, or a saute bouchon. Ageing courtiers loved pouring the white foam onto beautiful young ladies. The fact that carbon dioxide facilitates the absorption of alcohol into the blood, making champagne drinkers merry in no time, was of no great insignificance either. These kinds of parties quickly became the fashion and were imitated in other countries, and nothing could have been more effective in raising the popularity of champagne and increasing its reputation as the merry-making drink of love. In London, The Connoisseur wrote in 1754 of a party where young dandies had been drinking with a renowned prostitute, until one of them stole the girl’s shoe. With great pomp and circumstance he filled the shoe with champagne and drank a toast to the lady. After that the shoe was battered, fried and served with gravy for supper. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 87

Champagne marketing was aggressive, but at the same time it was a careful and sensitive job. The champagne houses wanted to fill not only the glasses of the rich and the powerful, but also those of their competitors and enemies. During the French Revolution, as the guillotine routinely decapitated champagne customers, many a marquis and count was addressed simply as “citizen” on their order labels and in the account books. Many of those awaiting execution asked for champagne as their final request, and the revolutionaries who had sent them to the chopping block enjoyed the same drink. Champagne salesmen waited on the flanks of battlefields to see who won, in order to fill their glasses and take orders for more celebratory wine. Champagne took no sides in battle, nor did it know the boundaries of nationality. As Bismarck would later say: “My patriotism stops short of my stomach.” Jean-Rémy Moët was a friend of Napoleon, but that did not stop him from entertaining every prince and general of the Allies, or becoming the official purveyor of every European court in peacetime. In the stormy period at the end of Napoleon’s reign, as the Russians and Prussians pursued the falling Frenchman, the army’s troops consumed huge quantities of champagne. Officers who got a taste for the drink would later become important customers for the trade in their home countries. The Russian market swiftly grew in importance. FEwEr brokEN bottlEs Sales of sparkling champagne grew exponentially as the end of the eighteenth century neared, and more champagne houses were established. In 1776 it was confirmed that the bubbles in champagne consisted of carbon 88 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA dioxide. However, there were major problems in production; the techniques involved in producing the sparkling drink were primitive, expensive and unreliable. Previously, indeed a number of years beforehand, producers had learned to add sugar to increase effervescence, but the higher pressure generated by this caused glass bottles to break. Customers had to be rich to begin with, but many of them began to demand guarantees of the durability of bottles and refused to pay for broken ones. At this time, one half of all the champagne bottles produced would explode in cellars, which was life-threatening to workers. The problem was all but solved in one fell swoop when the pharmacist André François from Châlon-sur-Marne invented the sucre-oenomètre in 1836. It gave a fairly reliable reading of the sugar content of wine. This soon led to fewer bottle breakages and a more scientific basis for the control of effervescence. The pressure in champagne bottles could be increased, and as chemists took over François’s work the breakage rate was eventually – within sixty years – lowered to between one and two per cent. ClEar wINE During the second fermentation, champagne bottles develop sediment, for which there was initially no solution. It was best to empty champagne glasses in one mouthful and leave the glass upside down on the table. The next one would then be served from a clean glass. Later, glasses were made with a pocket or narrowing at the base to catch the deposit when the glass was tipped. This was difficult, as was removing the sediment from the bottles through decanting into a clean bottle. The transfer from one bottle to another also made the wine lose its fizz. Finally, a famous lady’s table came to the rescue.

F I N E History Widowed in 1805, Madame Clicquot-Ponsardin was forced to make an unheard-of and courageous resolution for that time: she decided to take on her late husband’s role as the leader of a champagne house. From the very beginning of her brave move, she displayed exceptional daring, determination and business instinct. Her cellar master Antoine Muller came up with a wooden stand, the pupitre, in which bottles were turned and gradually inclined to deposit the sediment in the neck of the bottle. When the bottle was corked, pressure pushed the sediment out while most of the bubbles were retained, unlike when the wine was decanted. Legend has it that the stand was made out of the Madame’s kitchen table. With competition as tough as it was, she managed to keep the invention secret for a while. Clicquot-Ponsardin’s salesman simply boasted to his customers that the estate’s champagne was as clear as a mountain stream. Later, wine clarification was made easier by the method of dégorgement à la glace, developed by the Belgian Armand Walfart in 1884. In it, the bottleneck and the sediment it contained were chilled in a very cold saline solution. The deposit stuck to the ice slush and was relatively easy to remove when the cork was popped, without specialist assistance. Adolphe Jacquesson had already invented the wire cage that “Like swallowing razorblades,” one of her employees said. kept the cork in place in 1844, and William Deutz later complemented this with a metal cap. In 1852, Jacquesson developed a machine for washing the bottles. Today, all of this seems very simple but at the time these inventions provided the keys to expanding production – in time with the growing railway network which was able to transport bottles further and further afield. This was one of the golden ages of champagne. thE slow brEakthrough oF dry ChampagNE When champagne production took on industrial proportions, it was still a very sweet drink. Upon recorking, huge quantities of sugar were added to the wine. Sweetness was important, because customers were used to it and it also helped to hide deficiencies in the wine. A dry wine required a much longer ageing process and more carefully selected grapes. At worst, a shift from sweet to dry could have led to a loss of reputation and the disappearance of customers. It would have been a foolhardy thing to attempt. Louise Pommery had been planning a dry champagne, however, from the time she inherited her champagne house. Experiments in the 1860s failed and there were many sceptics. “Like swallowing razorblades,” one of her employees said. Determined, she continued experimenting. 1874 was one of the best vintages of the century, and it was a make-or-break moment for Pommery. The Pommery 1874 was such a success on the British market that poets dedicated odes to it and customers were prepared to pay anything for a taste. It was a complete and utter triumph, making the small house of Pommery & Greno one of the leading establishments in its field and gradually changing the entire concept of champagne. That was the first commercial Brut. Overall, the shift was not complete until well into the twentieth century, because consumer tastes change slowly. But champagne had become white, sparkling and dry. > This three part series is now concluded. ©Copyright FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 89

COLUMN RICHARD JUHLIN A CHAMPAGNE EXTRAVAGANZA IN NEW YORK CITY S pending a lot of time travelling for work means that I often spend prolonged periods of time away from my family. However, when the opportunity arose to take my partner Ragni and daughter Stella along with me, not one of us hesitated. The destination? New York! It was to be shopping for the girls and a weekend-long champagne extravaganza for me. After arriving in the bustling metropolis, I was put to work as soon as my plane landed, leaving me no time to recover from jetlag. I was worried about staying awake and not yawning during the first tasting event, which consisted of a seated tasting of twenty grower champagnes. Wherever you are in the world, these events often leave much room for improvement in terms of organisation, but the New York team sincerely impressed me and we spent an enjoyable evening babbling about champagne. The next night we enjoyed a splendid gathering at a Michelin starred restaurant, where the theme was the legendary 1996 vintage. As if that wasn’t enough, we then headed to the three-star Le Bernardin, which you may well have seen in several American films. Against this wonderful backdrop, we went through 122 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA twenty-or-so mature champagnes with the U.S. fine wine collectors’ elite. There, our aim was to show anyone still in doubt that champagne is the world’s premier wine for long cellaring. The next day, having left my family to sample yet more of New York’s cultural offerings, I set off on my own pilgrimage, which took in Ground Zero and the Statue of Liberty before a long walk through Chinatown, Little Italy and Greenwich. My final destination was one of my favourite bars, the atmospheric Soprano’s place Cipriani, which serves world class pasta. One further New York highlight was my meeting with Swedish superchef Mattias Larsson and dining with him at Thomas Keller’s Per Se, while seated at a window table over-

FINE Juhlin A SELECTION OF THE CHAMPAGNES: NV Krug Grande Cuvée 92p (94p) 1955 Louis Roederer 95p (95p) 1911 Moët & Chandon 95p (95p) 1961 Ruinart Dom Ruinart 96p (96p) 1955 Bollinger 90p (90p) 1921 Pol Roger 96p (96p) 1966 Pommery (n/a) 1955 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 99p (99p) 1932 Salon 97p (97p) 1964 Pommery 93p (93p) 1955 Moët & Chandon 91p (91p) 1942 Pommery 93p (93p) 1962 Pommery 94p (94p) 1981 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 98p (98p) 1952 Dom Pérignon Magnum 90p (90p) 1961 Pommery 90p (90p) 1980 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 97p (97p) 1959 Louis Roederer Magnum 96p (96p) 1959 Pommery 94p (94p) 1979 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 99p (99p) 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé Magnum 94p (96p) 1953 Philipponnat Blanc de Blancs 85p (85p) 1962 Louis Roederer 95p (95p) 1985 Dom Pérignon Rosé Magnum 97p (97p) 1952 Heidsieck 93p (93p) 1953 Louis Roederer 93p (93p) 1981 Krug Magnum 97p (97p) 1949 Charles Heidsieck 94p (94p) 1952 Louis Roederer 93p (93p) 1988 Krug Magnum 97p (98p) 1959 Gosset 95p (95p) 1959 Louis Roederer 96p (96p) 1982 Krug Magnum 97p (98p) 1949 Alfred Gratien 96p (96p) 1947 Louis Roederer 97p (97p) 1971 Salon Magnum 94p (94p) 1929 Lanson 92p (92p) 1975 Deutz Aÿ Magnum 98p (99p) 1975 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 1929 Pommery 96p (96p) 1966 Krug Blanc de Blancs 99p (99p) Magnum 94p (94p) 1928 Jacquesson 95p (95p) 1962 Charles Heidsieck 90p (90p) 1973 Louis Roederer Cristal Magnum 88p (88p) 1926 Pommery 97p (97p) 1962 Piper Pink Rosé 92p (92p) 1975 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1955 Pommery 84p (84p) 1962 Dom Pérignon Rosé 96p (96p) Magnum 97p (97p) 1955 Heidsieck 94p (94p) 1962 Krug 97p (97p) 1955 Charles Heidsieck 85p (85p) 1962 Louis Roederer Cristal 97p (97p) looking the magical Columbus Circle. I then whiled away the afternoon playing football in Central Park, surrounded by blossoming cherry trees – and all the while being filmed doing it, of course! In the evening, we were invited to the home of the world’s leading champagne collector, who treated us to a veritable abundance of classic champagnes and, our other mutual passion, mature red burgundies. After this fabulous dinner, we felt like continuing our festive night in New York, so we all squeezed into a couple of limousines and weaved our way through the streets to a shady spot in the port area near Brooklyn Bridge. In no time at all, we found ourselves in attendance at a concert by the famous, and rather interestingly named, DJ Dead Mouse, who hid under his hat for several hours on stage without looking at his enthusiastic audience. Our host had managed to procure us a VIP booth, where we got through three magnums which stood defiantly at the bottom of the wine list. I must admit I have never had so much difficulty drinking such great champagnes. Indeed, something must be wrong when you find it hard to drink more than two mouthfuls of a magnum of 1971 Salon – right? Exhausted but many experiences richer, we headed home having bitten off a little more of the Big Apple than we could chew. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 123

The Best Accompaniment to Food Te x t : Ju h a L i h t o n e n F o o d ph o t o g r a ph y : G u i d o B i t t n e r P o r t r a i t s: P e k k a N u i k k i , Dit te Isager Champagne is the perfect beverage; the name alone evokes feelings. Champagne’s luxury status elevates any moment like no other drink, and opening a bottle of champagne and popping the cork launches a celebration for most of us. It crowns any festive occasion and only a few think of it as a dinner companion. But it is at the dinner table that champagnes show their full scope as the world’s best food beverage. 92 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Gastronomy C ompared to red and white wine, champagne is a more versatile beverage to accompany different foods because of its intense flavour, acidity and bubbly structure. The intensity generated through the extended yeast lees contact gives champagne the body that makes it a perfect partner, even for heavier dishes. Thanks to Champagne’s cool growth environment the wines are high in acidity, which is a key factor when pairing wine and food. The carbon dioxide in the drink also ‘cuts’ the greasiness of the portion, making the overall experience with heavier foods much lighter. The frothy structure also complements airy foods, such as a salty or sweet mousse. On top of these general characteristics typical to champagne, the variable champagne styles and sweetness levels also create an indefinite number of options when it comes to matching champagne and different foods. For the successful pairing of champagne and food it is essential to know and understand the styles of champagne. Andreas Larsson Creative Sommelier – Restaurant P&M Vänner (Växjö, Sweden) The World’s Best Sommelier 2007 “Champagne is one of the greatest beverages to have with food. Of course it shows all of the characteristics of any great wine, with a remarkable freshness always present. Add to that the dimension of bubbles, those magic bubbles, which invigorate the palate and soothe our senses. Above all it is a fun wine. My best experience of the marriage of the two came after being crowned Europe’s best sommelier in 2004. It was the food, champagne and the victory that formed a great emotional moment. We were served a very classic French dish – pigeon stuffed with duck liver and truffle, alongside the great 1988 Dom Ruinart Rosé. The champagne smacked the palate with its deep fruitiness and tantalised the nose with layers of truffle and autumn fruit. A perfect match for a perfect moment.” FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 93

Recognise champagne styles T he countless different champagnes are defined by overall styles which help consumers choose a product best suited to their taste. The styles can roughly be divided into three categories: non-vintage champagne, vintage champagne and prestige cuvée champagne. Each style is produced as both rosé and regular. These general categories also contain various styles based on the grapes used in the champagnes and the varying degrees of sweetness. The structure of all champagne is based on three grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and the latter two are red-skinned grapes. Pinot Noir gives champagne body, structure, acidity and berry-like flavours; Pinot Meunier, which is seldom used alone, gives champagne richness and fruitiness; while Chardonnay brings champagne a sophisticated, silky and creamy quality. The different blends of these three grape varieties affect the relative taste experiences, and most champagnes contain all three in various proportions. Champagnes produced with Chardonnay alone carry the term ‘blanc de blancs’ on their labels. Champagnes made of Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier alone, or the two combined, are called ‘blanc de noirs’. All these aforementioned features form the base of combining different champagne styles with food. Enrico Bernardo Restaurateur – Restaurant Il Vino (Paris and Courchevel, France) The World’s Best Sommelier 2004 “We have to remember champagne is a wine, so as with all wine it can be perfectly matched with food. However, at any given moment, we have to pay close attention to which kind of champagne we have, be it blanc de blanc, rosé, cuvée prestige, vintage, etc. It is even possible to organise a complete lunch or dinner serving champagnes. In my experience, the most exciting marriage that we have experienced was a magnum Dom Pérignon Rosé 1978 served with roe-deer, chocolate flakes and redcurrant, accompanied with gnocchi potatoes and black truffle. It truly was a perfect marriage, with a lot of complexity, richness and persistence. Of course I would not suggest a champagne for a sweet dessert; if the champagne has some sweet characteristics, we can match it with some fruit.” Philippe Jamesse Head sommelier – Restaurant Les Crayères (Reims, France) The Champagne region’s most esteemed sommelier “Champagne is an excellent match for food thanks to its unique, wellbalanced structure, which is based on its acidity, minerals, fruitiness and bubbles. I cannot think of a better combination than salty crayfish, marinated fish and sushi with a young blanc de blancs Grand Cru extra brut champagne.” 94 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Gastronomy B Blanc de blancs for lighter dishes lanc de blancs champagnes, made of Chardonnay alone, are characterised by fresh acidity, a silky taste and overall lightness. They are a perfect match for lean and lighter foods prepared from structurally fine ingredients, such as scallops, crayfish and sweet-water fish. Thanks to their crispy and creamy character, blanc de blancs also pair superbly with foods that have a high umami content, such as mushrooms and shellfish. Non-vintage blanc de blancs, such as light Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, are an excellent aperitif and a great companion to light salads. Italian porcini, shellfish risottos and creamy mushroom or Jerusalem artichoke soups are a good match for vintage blanc de blancs with more character, such as Deutz Vintage Brut Blanc de Blancs. Heavier portions, such as lobster au gratin or fried whitefish with sautéed mushrooms, require more complex vintage or prestige cuvée versions, including Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, Salon, Krug Clos du Mesnil and Jacques Selosse Substance. Two course menu for blanc de blancs: Ginger-marinated Grilled Tiger Prawns d Poached Turbot with Green Asparagus Daniel Boulud Chef-restaurateur – Restaurant Daniel (New York), Bar Boulud (New York, London), Café Boulud (New York, Palm Beach), DB Bistro Moderne (New York, Miami, Vancouver), DBGB Kitchen&Bar (New York), Bar Pleiades (New York), Lumière (Vancouver), Maison Boulud (Beijing) “There are many ways to combine champagne and food, and it is always subjective. Champagnes come in different styles, but they also behave differently as they age. Foods enjoyed with champagne should be salty, lemony and creamy. Champagnes are also a good match with exotic, modestly spicy foods. The best combination? Bring me a bottle of champagne and I will tell you what I would serve with it and cook it for you!” FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 95

C Robust blanc de noirs hampagnes based on dark grapes – Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier – are known as blanc de noirs champagnes and differ from blanc de blancs, thanks to their more robust and firmer structure. They can be paired with stronger flavours and heavier foods, including light meats – veal, pork, chicken or turkey would all be suitable. Examples of these include André Clouet Brut Réserve, De Venoge Blanc de Noirs and Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir. Fowl with more intense flavours, such as duck, goose, mallard, dove, willow grouse and quail, are complemented by vintage blanc de noirs with more character. Paul Bara Vintage would be a choice, while Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises or Krug Clos d’Ambonnay, both prestige cuvée blanc de noirs, would work equally well. Two course menu for blanc de noirs: Oxtail soup d Duck à l’Orange B Omnivorous blend champagnes lended champagnes represent a combination of several grape varieties, and thus they possess the qualities of both blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs. The more Chardonnay there is in a blend, the better it combines with the lighter flavours. Champagnes with more Pinot Noir are better suited to richer and heavier flavours; brands with a higher percentage of Pinot Noir include Gosset, Philipponnat, Krug, Bollinger and Veuve Clicquot. The world’s most luxurious prestige cuvée champagnes – Piper-Heidsieck Rare, Armand de Brignac Brut, Dom Pérignon and Krug Vintage – are all examples of this kind of blend. Blended champagnes are produced in different degrees of sweetness, from fully dry to sweet. Medium dry and medium sweet champagnes are at their best at the dinner table, complementing both goose and duck liver dishes served as appetizers, as well as crayfish-based sweet and sour items and salty and sour sheep’s milk cheeses. The blended champagnes with the most sweetness are also an excellent match for fresh desserts. Two course menu for non-vintage champagne: Moules Marinière d Lobster Thermidor 96 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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R Serge Dubs Head sommelier – Restaurant Auberge de l’Ill (Illhausern/Alsace, France) The World’s Best Sommelier 1989 “I will begin by stating that champagne is a unique drink in the world. It represents an exclusive lifestyle and celebration – I love champagne. Matching champagne and food requires an understanding of the different champagne styles and an appreciation of food. For example, traditional straightforward and crispy dry blanc de blancs are an excellent match with marinated fish and sushi, while creamier and more full-bodied blanc de blancs are suitable for creamy dishes and even light meats. Depending on the grape blend, vintage champagnes are more complex and generous than non-vintage ones, and thus an excellent match for lobster, crab and even dove. I have had the fortune to experience many excellent pairings of champagne and food, but one of the best was the combination of partridge and 1990 Dom Ruinart Rosé.” Rosé champagnes – Richer champagnes osé champagnes are more robust in character than others, and have an inkling of tannins which are usually mild but add more texture to a champagnes’ palate. The modest tannins in the wines offer good possibilities of matching rosé champagnes with red meat and mild game. The best and most complex prestige cuvée rosés are an excellent choice for wildfowl served with berries and creamy side dishes. The wines have enough body for the strong flavour of wildfowl and, together with the creamy additions, the berries round off the taste of the champagnes. Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé and Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé represent the more elegant end of rosés. Dom Pérignon Rosé and Cuvée William Deutz Rosé are more full-bodied prestige cuvée rosés, while La Grande Dame Rosé and Bollinger Grande Année Rosé are among the more robust rosés. Two course menu for Rosé champagnes: Vitello Tonnato d Chicken Suprême W Late-disgorged champagnes – Stronger flavours e can also list, as a separate group, the so-called late-disgorged champagnes, which have been left to mature longer in the bottle with yeast lees. These champagnes are characterised by yeastiness and a robust richness generated by the long contact with yeast lees, rather than by the features of the grape varieties. They are often very dry, because mature champagne no longer needs much added sugar to round off its taste. Their tastes are complex, nutty and full-bodied, rather than crispy or fruity, and are at their best when accompanied by food such as veal flavoured with truffles or pork fillet seasoned with nut oil. The best known late-disgorged champagnes are Bollinger R.D. (Recemment Dégorgé), Jacquesson DT (Dégorgement Tardif ) and Dom Pérignon Oenothéque. Two course menu for late-disgorged champagnes: Black Truffle and Quail Consommé en Croûte d Sole Meunière 98 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Gastronomy Madhu Krishnan Executive Chef, Research and Development, ITC Hotels (Gurgaon, India) “Indian food cannot be clustered under a generalised culinary technique and flavour palette. In pairing with the equally complex universe of champagne, a more creative approach is palpable, and bolder and unconventional juxtapositions are discernable. Renditions that draw on established Indian culinary traditions, like classic gravies, gently infused with spices, and fragrant rice pair well with the elegance, silkiness, freshness and effervescence of champagne. An Extra Brut with the very sharp Kasundi (pounded mustard from Bengal) marinated fish slow poached in mustard oil is a must try. My champagne moment would have to be the one at the magisterial Benedictine Abbey of Hautvillers, where Dom Pierre Perignon pursued the creation of “the best wine in the world”. The magnificent lunch hosted by Moet et Chandon was an exquisite showcase of modern, albeit, simplistic contemplations served with vintage champagne, overlooking the rolling grounds of the estate abloom with spring flowers. Magical and inspiring…” M Richard Geoffroy Chef de cave – Dom Pérignon (Epernay, France) Mature champagnes ature champagnes represent another distinct style in champagne. There is no classification for mature champagnes, but we can talk about a mature champagne when it is at least fifteen years old. These wines are complex and vinous. They typically have a nutty and mushroom-like flavour and a hint of caramel, truffles, dried fruit and honey. They often seem drier than what would be expected given the markings on the label. In other words, a 1960s champagne marked ‘sec’ seems more like ‘brut’, because the sense of fruitiness disappears with age. As the term ‘mature’ refers to long storage, the champagnes can be non-vintage, vintage or prestige cuvée champagnes. They provide an interesting match for dishes with a long cooking time, which accentuates the flavours of the ingredients. Examples of these might be roasted light meats, mushroom risottos and soups. Mature champagnes are also a good companion for cheese. Two course menu for mature champagnes: Jamón Ibércio Bellota d Confit de Canard with Porcini Risotto “The best feature of champagne is the balanced structure, which makes it an excellent match for various foods. The pairing of wine and food is all about texture and the balance of flavours, not aromas. When we understand the balance of flavours, we can come up with an endless number of combinations for champagne and food. Champagnes even complement spicy foods better than any other wine. An example of this is Dom Pérignon and green Thai curry, which is a surprisingly good match. It is hard to single out one combination, although I must say that Dom Pérignon 1999 with Mexican mole negro is an unbeatable match. Mole negro is an ancient dish with over twenty-five ingredients, and is one of the most complex dishes in the world but it works perfectly with Dom Pérignon 1999, which further complements this dish thanks to its mineral style.” In Geoffroy’s experience there is one chef in the world who masters the pairing of champagne and food better than any other, and he is Tetsuya Wakuda, who runs his eponymous restaurant in Sydney, Australia. Among sommeliers, Geoffroy praises Philippe Jamesse, the head sommelier of Château Les Crayères, who he considers to be the best champagne sommelier in the world. Out of the winners of the world’s best sommelier title, he mentions Andreas Larsson as a master of combining champagne and food. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 99

S Degrees of sweetness in champagne weetness is a key element when matching champagne and food. Each of the champagne styles can be produced with various degrees of sweetness, although most producers only make sweeter versions of non-vintage champagnes. Sugar is added during the final production stage and, depending on the amount of added sugar, the champagne is labelled brut nature or non-dosé (fully dry), extra brut (very dry), brut (dry), extra-sec (dryish), sec (medium-dry), demi-sec (medium sweet), or doux (sweet). When choosing a champagne for food, its degree of sweetness is, surprisingly enough, the first thing that needs to be considered in order to guarantee a balanced experience. The more sweetness there is in a dish, the more it makes the champagne seem drier and more austere, and it should thus be paired with a sweeter champagne. Liver dishes, for example, are often served with sweet condiments, which is why they should be accompanied by a sweeter demi-sec champagne. The same applies to such dishes as sweet-and-sour crayfish tail and fresh fruit served as a dessert. Champagne types and residual sugar Brut Nature (or pas dosé, dosage zéro): 0 g/l Extra-brut: 0–6 g/l Brut: < 12g/l Extra-dry: 12–17 g/l Sec: 17–32 g/l Demi-sec: 32–50 g/l Thomas Rode Andersen Chef de Cuisine – Restaurant Kong Hans (Copenhagen, Denmark) “Champagne is one of the most versatile wines with food. The combination of high acidity and bubbles gives champagne a unique freshness, which is one of the most important points when drinking wine with food – to become refreshed and feel like eating and drinking more! The flavour profile is also quite special, as the lees contact and bottle maturation add complexity and character, resulting in an unparalleled drinking experience. I usually rate it highest with dishes that focus on earthy, umami-rich and non-fruity notes, because champagne combined with this taste direction not only shows its great structure of acidity, but also enhances the flavour of the food, due mainly to its own flavour profile. I have had several amazing experiences with champagne and food but I always return to that December night at home after a busy evening at the restaurant, where we enjoyed carpaccio of Danish beef with chestnuts, parmesan cheese and the first truly ripe black truffles of the season. We paired this heavenly meal with Dom Pérignon 2000. The ‘mushroomy’ character of the Dom Pérignon and its intensity and richness married perfectly with the raw meat and the truffles. The parmesan gave it all an extra boost, given it is one of the best taste intensifiers of all, and the discrete nutty flavour of the chestnuts magnified the creaminess of the mousse. That was truly amazing. Once again, I was given an example of how versatile champagne is with food.” Wh at n e e d s t o b e considered when pairing champagne and food? T he key to the perfect food and wine match is based in the balance and harmony of basic tastes – sour, salty, sweet, bitter and umami. All types of champagnes get along well with sourness and saltiness, and are also a good match with very bitter and umami-rich flavours. Unlike many other wine types champagne can handle the sweetness. The biggest challenge for wine when balancing with food, is sweetness. It is thus a good starting point to assess the degree of sweetness in a dish before selecting a champagne to serve with it. Sweetness in food is hazardous for wine, because it accentuates the wine’s sourness. It is hard to find a champagne that will match sweeter desserts, because consumers have favoured dry champagnes for a hundred years and, with only a few exceptions, sweet champagnes are no longer produced. One worthy example of a sweet champagne is the hard-to-find Doyard La Libertine Doux, which has up to 60 g/l of residual sugar. 100 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Gastronomy Philippe Mille Chef de Cuisine – Restaurant Les Crayères (Reims, France) “Champagne is a very interesting drink, which offers important flavours on the palate. This makes it easy to marry with a number of salty dishes that contain bitter or acidic flavours. One of the most appreciated dishes from our list has been roasted bass served with a carrot and orange jus, green peas, and celery flavoured with ginger. This is served with Champagne De Sousa cuvée Des Caudalies Blanc de Blanc Millésimé, which has a spicy, slightly fatty and smoky character.” S Balanced flavours ourness in food flattens wine’s acidity. Because champagne is naturally high in acidity, sour flavours in food round out the taste of champagne nicely. Portions with tomato and bell pepper, fruit and berries, vinegar, lemon or wine are examples of more sour dishes, and any champagne is a good match for them. Saltiness in food is an excellent partner to any wine, but above all champagne. Together with acidity, it creates a strongly appetising sensation. Salt also cuts through the tannins and sourness in wines, both of which can be found in rosé champagnes to a certain degree. Latedisgorged champagnes, in turn, may emit bitterness because of their yeastiness. The most common salty foods are salty meats and fish, olives, air-cured meats, cheeses and roe. Sweetness in food makes a wine seem less sweet and adds sourness to its taste. This accentuates the sharp acidity of champagnes and calls for a sweeter champagne. Sugar, jams, honey, cocoa, fruit, berries, fried onions, bell peppers and cream bring sweetness to a dish. Bitterness and umami emphasise the ‘hard’ flavours in wine – spiciness, tannins and oakiness – that are not common to champagnes. Both bitterness and umami, sensed at the back of the mouth, are balanced by acidity and sweetness. This is why champagnes, particularly sweeter varieties, are excellent partners to bitter and umami-like tastes. Bitterness can be added to a dish using green vegetables, fruit, berries, chocolate, nuts and blackened ingredients. Umami, in turn, is present in all products that are high in protein, such as mushrooms, cheese, meats, fish, seaweed, shellfish, soy and nuts. Rene Redzepi Restaurateur & Chef de Cuisine – Restaurant Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark) The World’s Best Restaurant 2010, 2011 & 2012 “Looking at the task with Noma-goggles on, I must say that champagne with food is the perfect marriage. Champagne has the minerality, acidity and elegance that are so needed at Noma. The combinations of champagnes and our dishes seem to work better than any other pairings. The champagnes we serve are grower champagnes that produce champagnes with personality expressed by terroir, and which are often made biodynamically. The finest experience at Noma is fried egg, sunny side up, with the sauce of fresh ramson onions, served with spinach and herbs from the field sand forests. This is served with Laherte Les Vignes d’Autrefois Extra Brut 2004. The magic of the combination is multifold. The intensiveness and richness of the dish needs to be balanced with the intensity and acidity of the champagne. It is exactly these features that are present in the terroir-driven champagne of Laherte. The green elements of the dish need a counterpart, and the minerality found in champagne provides such a perfectlymatched partner. The Laherte champagne, with its rustic flavours from Pinot Meunier, and the intense, elegant and mineral notes deriving from the 60-year-old vines, is a perfect companion to this dish, which is packed full of complex flavours.” FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 101

Creating a champagne menu in abundance. One such example of this is crayfish ‘Toast Skagen’ laced with sour cream. Those seeking more intensity could choose a blended vintage champagne for this course. here are many ways to create a champagne menu. As champagne is highly prestigious, it should naturally be the clear focus of the menu, and a good starting point is to decide on the champagne theme for the menu first. The options are a luxurious menu with a different style of champagne for each dish, or a simpler menu built around just one champagne. The latter requires more insight into the flavours on the menu. From a blended champagne we can move on to the world of generous blanc de noirs, produced using only dark grapes. Masculine and robust blanc de noirs are excellent when matched with greasy fish and meat dishes, but at this point of the menu they are also a pleasant companion to creamy and hearty soups. A creamy celery and champagne soup, for example, complements blanc de noirs champagnes nicely. I When a warm fish dish is served, the food begins to include more body and intensity, and this is why it is recommended to favour vintage champagnes with them. If the key ingredient is more delicate and the flavours of the dish are softer, a vintage blanc de blancs is a good pairing. If the dish emits robust flavours and plenty of greasiness, a vintage blend champagne is a better option, because it cuts through the dish’s natural oils. An example of a heavier portion is fried angler with beetroot purée and butter-saffron sauce. T One champagne throughout the meal f we want to serve the same champagne throughout the meal, it is wise to select the champagne based on the sweetness of the dessert. If the dessert is crispy and only slightly sweet, medium-dry sec champagne might work. If the dessert has not yet been decided, a good suggestion is to serve fresh strawberries or a crispy and less-sweet lemon sorbet. On the other hand, demi-sec champagne is a safer choice. It allows for slightly more sweetness in the dessert, although not to a significant degree. Semi-sweet champagne works well as an aperitif with salty appetizers, and it can stand up to more sweetness in other dishes. It also matches well with salty hard cheeses than dry champagne. T Soup Warm fish course Warm meat course When seeking a suitable champagne for meat dishes, it is advisable to turn to the more complex and intense prestige cuvée rosés. As they have body and intensity, and even a hint of tannins, they stand up well to meat courses. Meat dishes like wildfowl, veal and lamb are excellent partners for vintage rosé champagne, although heavier steaks should not be served with champagne. A menu with different champagne styles his is the most festive type of champagne dinner, and also gives diners an understanding of how versatile a drink champagne is. The aperitif of a champagne menu should be a crispy, young champagne with high acidity, which waters the mouth and wakes the appetite. This should ideally be supported by serving small and salty snacks with it, such as roe, cold-smoked reindeer or cold-smoked salmon. When designing the actual menu, it is good to keep in mind the philosophy of serving that applies to all wines – the menu starts with lighter and drier wines and progresses to the more full-bodied and sweeter ones. A six-course champagne menu is easiest to build by first selecting the champagne types and styles. Aperitif A good aperitif is a light non-vintage blanc de blancs, which nicely reflects the elegant and seductive nature of Chardonnay. Friends of more full-bodied character can start with a vintage champagne instead. Appetizer Following the aperitif we move on to a slightly richer styled, non-vintage dry blended champagne, which contains all three key grape varieties. The starter could be a light shellfish dish that has acidity and freshness 102 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Cheese Semi-dry sec is a good choice for mild, creamy and salty cheeses, such as Taleggio and Brie, and hard and salty sheep’s milk cheeses like Pecorino and Manchego. Mature champagnes are also a good option, but cheese should not be served with sweet condiments, otherwise the champagne’s taste will seem very sour. Dessert The last part of a delicious dinner is often disastrous for champagne. It is best to choose a sweet doux-type champagne for dessert, if available. It is, unfortunately, often hard to find even a semi-sweet demi-sec champagne. The dessert on a champagne menu should be fresh and not very sweet, meaning fresh strawberries with whipped cream or a light and fluffy mint-flavoured dark chocolate mousse with very little sugar would be ideal. W hether the champagne menu is carried out with one or several champagnes, it is sure to evoke festive feelings in the guests invited. Arranging a champagne dinner is one of the best ways to celebrate a special occasion with important guests. It brings luxury to ordinary life with little effort; guests will certainly remember an evening that consists of a champagne menu for a long time. The host or a hostess can make the evening into an interesting adventure by also acknowledging the fascinating stories behind the different champagne brands. >

FINE Gastronomy Menu Ideas One champagne throughout the meal Veuve Clicquot Sec (non-vintage sec) Toast Skagen Cream of celery soup Ginger-marinated fried salmon and mushroom risotto Pecorino cheese Champagne sorbet and caramelised lemon peel Espresso Different champagne styles through the meal Ruinart Blanc de Blancs (non-vintage blanc de blancs) Fried scallops and warm cucumber tagliatelle Jacquesson Cuvée No 736 Brut (non-vintage blend) Celery and champagne soup De Venoge Blanc de Noirs (non-vintage blanc de noirs) Guy Savoy Fried angler, beetroot purée and butter-saffron sauce Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut (non-vintage rosé) Restaurateur & Chef de Cuisine – Restaurant Guy Savoy Fried fillet of veal, clear port wine sauce and truffle-potato purée Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2000 (prestige cuvée) “Champagne behaves the same as any other wine and can be combined with food. My best experiences have been roasted baby turbot with St George’s mushrooms, served with Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 1990; as well as bread and butter chocolate and pepper pudding with a champagne granite, served with Billecart-Salmon Rosé.” Brie de Meaux Veuve Clicquot Sec (non-vintage sec) (Paris, France and Las Vegas, US) Fresh strawberries and white chocolate froth Doyard La Libertine (prestige cuvée doux) Espresso Marc de Gosset T he Biscuit de Reims was created specifically for enjoyment with champagne in the 1690s. These biscuits are magically baked in the after-heat of a wood oven – first to cook them and then to dry them. That led to their very name, with bis-cuit meaning twice-baked. As any good recipe demands, these biscuits are still made in the Reims area using the original recipe. Originally white, these airy biscuits later became famous for their light crimson colour. Reims biscuits are still popular as a canapé with champagne aperitifs. The feminine way to enjoy them is to dip the biscuit in the champagne before biting into it, then daintily sipping some of the bubbly to wash it down. T he Champagne region has a very colourful history, punctuated by a nearly endless succession of conquests. It is also known for a culinary paradox: due to its nutrient-poor soil, the divine drink’s home region has one of the least exceptional culinary histories in France. There was never time to create anything special in the local cuisine before the next invaders arrived. The wine used in the traditional dishes of the Champagne region has no fizz, as that was not added to the drink until the late 1600s. The finest feasts consisted of pork, offal and cabbage, happily sizzling together. They were served with pea purée. Some of the older French generation may point to the traditional delicacy “champagne kraut” – after all Alsace, the promised land of sauerkraut, is not far. To prepare it, you would make a traditional sauerkraut to serve with pork hock and bratwurst, but instead of cooking it in Alsace wine, use champagne. It is no wonder, then, that champagne is now used in dishes as mundane as pea soup. It is simply culinary history repeating itself in today’s trends. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 103

Sabyasachi Gorai aka Saby Richard Juhlin Champagne Specialist Culinary Director, Olive Bar & Kitchen (New Delhi, India) “Personally, I enjoy Champagne a lot because you can start in the morning and continue till late at night. Champagne goes really well with south Indian dishes like Dosa, Rava Idli or Appam and equally well with Tandoori Murg, or grilled Haloumi cheese, the food preparation should be less chilly. The King prawn in saffron almond sauce with sautéed spinach and crusty sticky rice, is so lovely with the Dom Perignon 1999. Joel Robuchon’s Squab stuffed with foie gras with Bruno Paillard Champagne in the company of Alice Paillard at l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris and a terrine of pig’s trotter with Taittinger Champagne in the company of Vitalie Taittinger at the Château de la Marquetterie in Pierry were delightful.” “In the experimental and refined fine dining kitchen of today, the sublime and multifaceted combinations of flavours demand a subtle, refined wine, and no other type of wine fits that description better than champagne. The sharp acidity cuts like a knife through the fatty and creamy parts of a dish, while the soft tingling bubbles accentuate the most subtle details of the food. Personally, I never have champagne with sweet food and very often skip dessert to enjoy an older champagne! The best combination for me was Alfred Gratien 1953 vintage, and it was served, at le Vigneron in Reims, alongside duck liver terrine, brioche and a fig marmalade.” COMMENTS FROM THE WORLD’S B E S T C H A M PA G N E SPECIALISTS: Essi Avellan MW Nihal Kaviratne CBE Chevalier du Tastevin (Mumbai, India) Editor of FINE Champagne Magazine “Champagne is such a subtle wine that it rarely overpowers any dish, and it must be the most versatile wine to combine with food. As a refined and effervescent wine of high acidity, it is the refreshing element of a meal, helping us to maintain an appetite over the course of even a long dinner. My best experience with champagne and food happened in Restaurant l’Assiette Champenoise in Reims, where I had a superb dinner served in the kitchen by the owner and chef himself, Arnaud Lallement. He made me Turbot Breton, and it was served with Krug Vintage 1996. The combination, due partly to the special setting, felt just perfect!” 104 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA “It is difficult to coax Indian friends, habituated to Scotch, to start an evening with a splash of Champagne. But we are getting there. With the exception of the 1996 vintage (and Salon in particular), I have migrated from the Grand Marques to Artisanal Champagnes, from the growers who hand craft the wines and vinify them with controlled precision to reflect their terroir, with charm, personality and presence stamped all over them. Champagne comes alive in versatility and depth when complimented with creamy, buttery, crunchy and salty bites. My favourites : Egly-Ouriet’s Les Crayères VV & Prawn Tempura with Wasabi Mayonnaise, Laherte’s quirky Les Vignes d’Autrefois (100% Meunier…needs decanting!) & Buttery Scrambled Eggs topped with Salmon Roe, and hot Onion Pakoras with any of the above.”

Aishwarya Nair Corporate Food & Beverage Consultant, The Leela Hotels, Palaces and Resorts, (Mumbai, India) “India is besotted with Champagne. Champagne is not only synonymous to celebration, Champagne is surely the drink of choice. While the delicate non-vintage Champagnes pair well with the more cream based and less spicy Northern Indian foods, pairing bolder Vintage Champagne with richer and spicier Indian foods presents a challenge. The tasting of the ship-wrecked Heidsieck Monopole 1907 at the launch of the FINE Wine and Champagne India magazine in New Delhi, was definitely one of the most extraordinary tastings that I have been a part of. The best pairing for me was the unexpected yet startlingly supreme Pol Roger 2002 Rosé that was recommended by Rohit Nambiar at the Prairie Grass Café in Chicago, and was proposed with a rich chocolate cake by James Beard Award winning Chef Sarah Stegner. The balance in pairing was pure magic. FINE Gastronomy Rajiv Singhal, Editor of FINE Wine & Champagne India and Ambassador of Champagne to India, reminds me that there has always been a myth that spicy Indian food does not pair with wine in general, meaning the more delicate champagnes have not even been considered an option. To shatter this belief, he has presented champagne as the only option to accompany a meal, showcasing the different styles and ages of champagne. The complexity and diversity in the cuvées coming from different champagne houses, has successfully complemented and even accentuated the spicy taste profiles of the Indian dishes selected. In the traditional box of Indian spices, only chillies present a challenge, and in his view, they can be tamed only with cold water. For Rajiv, this has been a very engaging learning, ably aided by some of the finest culinary experts in India. Many were extremely apprehensive, but the results have been very good and the merit of his hypothesis has been accepted. He shares his experimentations in this menu which draws on, as he says, “some remarkable meals that I have had the privilege of hosting”. Champagne with an Indian Meal Laurent Perrier Grande Siècle d Chaat and Pakora Snacks made with crisp pastry and gram flour and spicy batter fried vegetables Dom Perignon 2002 d Ghoonga Koonthal Chettinad Scallop and squid in a south Indian masala with curry leaves and black pepper Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2000 d Sunehra Jhinga Golden king prawn marinated with lime leaf, fresh turmeric and yoghurt Krug Grande Cuvée d Imli chuski Tamarind sorbet d Bharwan Murg Tangri, Dal Arhar aur Roti Chicken leg stuffed with foie gras and mince, with yellow lentils and Indian bread Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 d Nihari Slow cooked New Zealand lamb shank in a traditional and spicy Indian gravy Peter Liem Wine critic and Founder of ChampagneGuide.net “Champagne’s high acidity and low alcohol make it an ideal wine for food, and I do think that the bubbles work to its advantage as well, as they help to refresh the palate. The best champagne and food experience I had was on my birthday in 2004, when I took a magnum of 1979 Pierre Gimonnet Millésime de Collection to Prune in New York. No visit to Prune is complete without tasting the delicious sweetbreads, which are breaded, deep-fried and served with a slice of bacon and then paired with a sauce made of lemon, capers and loads of butter. It was sublime with the Gimonnet. The wine’s complex, mature richness perfectly complemented the richness of the dish, while its brisk acidity and intense chalkiness provided an energetic and refreshing contrast.” Bollinger La Grande Année 2000 or Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1995 d Ananas aur Gulabi Ghevar Rose flavoured reduced milk pastry shell on a caramelised pineapple bed Armand de Brignac Rosé d Makaibari Silver Tips Imperial, Darjeeling Second flush, organic white tea d Banarasi Meetha Paan Melt-in-the-mouth sweet betel leaf FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 105

Michelin Guide Three Stars San Francisco Chronicle Four Stars The Restaurant at Meadowoood Worth a Special Journey The Restaurant at Meadowood Chef Christopher Kostow 70-79_CH5_champagne_weekend.indd 70-79_CH5_champagne_weekend.indd 70 70 11/10/10 11/10/10 12:58 12:58 PM PM 70-7 70-7

:58 :58 PM PM Relationships are core to life in Napa Valley. F or the last half century, Napa Valley the original gathering place for the Valley’s has provided the panorama for a burgeoning wine community, Meadowood unique way of life—directed by the has now become an international wine industry and acted out by a host of destination and boasts membership within local players. Wine is the thread weaving the the exclusive ranks of Relais & Chateaux. art of man with the Come for a visit. bounty of nature in Walk the fairways a complex pattern on which Auction of relationships— Napa Valley has relationships that go raised more than $90 to the core of the million since the Valley’s legendary ?rst gavel was raised. way of life and set Mingle with the the stage for a story vintners and growers like no other. as they enjoy their The community club through sport that is Napa Valley activities, recreation, contributes to local and the pursuit of enterprise through lifelong wellness. its vast experience Dine on the private and deep-seated terrace of your relationships. In adguestroom or spend dition to grape growthe evening enjoying Master Sommelier Gilles de Chambure ers and wine makers, a meal prepared it includes agriculturalists, great chefs, som- by Michelin Three-Star chef Christopher meliers, maître d’s, gallery owners, innkeep- Kostow in The Restaurant at Meadowood. ers and shop proprietors. All depend upon Spend a day exploring the wineries you’ve each other for their unique livelihood and longed to visit with Gilles de Chambure, lifestyle. Master Sommelier, whose sole role at For the past 46 years Meadowood Meadowood is to enhance guests’ knowledge has served as the heart and soul of the and enjoyment of wine. winegrowing community—as a center for A stay at Meadowood offers you entry social and family life and as a second home into an extraordinary way of life. Capture for travelers from around the world wishing the magic of Napa Valley and develop your to immerse themselves in the region, its own relationship with the people that de?ne wines, and its people. Founded in 1964 as this unparalleled experience. the sporting life at meadowood The forested hillsides of Meadowood’s two hundred ?fty-acre valley slope to the cool green of the estate’s nine-hole, walking golf course. Presiding over the tranquil fairways and the golf teaching facility is Resident Golf Professional Doug Pike. Meadowood’s Resident Tennis Professional, Doug King, is one of the country’s leading tennis teaching innovators. The founder of Acceleration Tennis, a revolutionary teaching system, King is leading the way in reinterpreting the traditional tennis model, working with players of all skill levels from beginner to professional. Between dining and wine experiences we invite you to stretch your legs with a game of golf or tennis. 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, California 94574 Tel (707) 968-3153 www.meadowood.com 70-79_CH5_champagne_weekend.indd 70-79_CH5_champagne_weekend.indd 71 71 11/10/10 11/10/10 12:58 12:58 PM PM

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FINE Science T h e B l e n d i n g Tex t : Mart i n Wi lli ams M W Every January, as the Christmas and New Year festivities draw to a close, the thoughts of the Champenois turn to creating the new season’s cuvées. The all-important task of blending is about to commence. Like a child contemplating a large and complex jigsaw puzzle received as a gift the week before, each winemaker takes stock of the myriad pieces that ultimately, painstakingly, must be combined to create the perfect image of champagne. There is, however, one major difference: unlike the child who can refer to the picture on the box for inspiration, the winemaker is faced with a puzzle that has only a vague solution when the blending FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 69

Champagne is a multifaceted gem. It can be many things to many people – drink of celebration, daily tipple, serious gastronomic wine – but above all, it carries an air of quality and the anticipation of pleasure. One particular feature that may elude the casual drinker is that champagne is one of the most complex of wines, its complexity underlying its unique quality and giving pleasure to its countless fans worldwide. Krug’s Grande Cuvée, Dom Pérignon, Grande Siècle, Cristal, Salon… all exhibit transcendant levels of quality that make them some of the greatest of drinking experiences. The superlative quality of each of these fabulous wines is based on fundamental attributes, not least of which is complexity. Complexity is not automatically a natural attribute of champagne: while intensity, length and depth are largely qualities derived from the grapes, complexity must be carefully created and nurtured – it is very much a product of deliberate human intervention via the winemaking process. The crafting of a top champagne is an exacting task, in which the weaving together of many different parts results in an altogether greater whole. Of paramount importance is the blending process, a skill refined over centuries in the region and proudly carried on by a select group of craftsmen, the master winemakers of Champagne. Science or art? The art of blending has been described as the beauty and strength of champagne. It is undoubtedly a key factor in its enduring appeal and its status as a wine ‘classic’. While many aspects of contemporary champagne production involve the methodical application of science and technology, blending at the highest level remains a uniquely creative endeavour. The blender practises what could be described as a ‘hidden art’, as a truly skilful blend possesses a seamlessness that hides its complexity. Furthermore, the wine that eventually emerges from the blending process may bear only a passing resemblance to each of its component parts. The practicalities of champagne blending have evolved over centuries, and today represent a formidable body of savoir-faire that only a few gifted and dedicated winemakers possess. The blender must start with an understanding of the base wines available. Equally important is a sensory image of the final product. This image must correspond to an established house style and its place in the market. Another objective is consistency in a region where seasonal variations from one “The art of blending has been described as the beauty and strength of champagne” 70 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Science vintage to the next can be extreme. Hence, the actual composition of a typical blend from one of the larger houses is highly unlikely to remain identical from year to year, as different components are blended in different proportions to achieve consistency. Intimate knowledge of the base wines available often extends back to familiarity of the vineyards from which the grapes are sourced. A legendary master blender, the late Daniel Thibaut of Charles Heidsieck, had great affection for the littleknown chalky outcrop of Montgueux. Describing it poetically as the ‘Montrachet of Champagne’, Thibaut had a deep understanding of the valuable contribution that the finely structured, yet intensely flavoured, Chardonnay grapes of Montgueux could make to his superbly complex blends. Putting together the pieces Preparation for blending starts during vintage. From the grapes arriving at the winery door during that frantic two-week harvest period, the “The greatest gift required of a great champagne blender is patience” winemaker must vinify an appropriate number and volume of base wines of the style and quality required to produce the company’s range. Several months later, these new wines are blended skilfully to satisfy the desired style, volume and cost objectives, with as few ‘orphan’ batches as possible left unused at the end of the process. Aside from the logistics of harvest and vinification, the challenges facing the blender relate mostly to tasting ability. Having a sensitive and experienced palate is the primary prerequisite of a gifted blender. In great family-owned houses such as Pol Roger, the responsibility for blending has passed within the family from generation to generation for over a century, thus ensuring long-term consistency of house style. In other houses, winemakers are trained in the art of blending through a form of apprenticeship, as proven palates within the company gradually pass their insights on to those who show promise. The emphasis placed by the established houses on carefully training their blenders is remarkable. Roederer’s cellarmaster, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, joined the company in 1989 and worked as an assistant cellarmaster for 10 years before promotion to his current position. Such a lengthy apprenticeship is put into perspective by the timescales and investment involved in producing great champagnes: the first vintage of Cristal for which Lecaillon was given sole blending responsibility was the 1999, finally released in 2005. Lecaillon might well attest that the greatest gift required of a great champagne blender is patience. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 71

Projecting the future Given the lead times involved in the production of all champagne, and especially prestige cuvées, the blender must be able to project forward from the sensory profile of the new assemblage, to the impression at the eventual moment of consumption – not a trivial exercise. The number of individual base wines produced and purchased in by the larger négociants-manipulants, representing the three major varieties, over 300 communes, various winemaking treatments and sometimes both vins de cuvée and vins de taille, may be in the hundreds; Roederer routinely start the blending period with up to 450 individual wines. Despite various steps taken to simplify the task of blending, such as preblending juices from a single commune before fermentation, the winemaker is still faced with a daunting number of pieces to fit together into the complex jigsaw puzzle that is great champagne. Amazingly, no matter what the anticipated quality and style of the finished product, the lack of obviously attractive characters in the component base wines is a common feature of assembled champagnes prior to tirage. To produce those base wines, the blender essentially has two main options: to blend only base wines within a single harvest year (usually to create a vintage cuvée), or to blend across vintages and thereby enjoy many of the recognised benefits of the non-vintage approach. “The essential challenge is to construct a wine that is effectively an outline of its future self ” Typically, the base wines themselves are light and tart, low in alcohol and high in acidity. Aromas and flavours are subtle, and most of the palate weight will be built in later through maturation and dosage. Apart from dealing with the physical challenge of tasting dozens of high acid wines, the winemaker must be able to abstract the characteristics of the future champagne from a series of trial blends. The task is made more challenging by lack of carbonation, sweetness and lees complexity. Paradoxically, blending achieves complexity through the assemblage of a number of wines that are intrinsically quite simple in character. The essential challenge is to construct a wine that is effectively an outline of its future self: just as an outline is filled in to create a picture, so the combined processes of tirage, disgorgement, dosage and finally a period of maturation prior to consumption, will transform the tirage blend into a far more palatable product. 72 Horizontal or vertical? Assembling batches vinified in a single production year is known as ‘horizontal’ blending. The blending components may be based on different grape varieties, diverse locations or various techniques, from oak maturation to malolactic fermentation. Krug, Gratien, Bollinger and Jacquesson are known for their use of oak vessels of various sizes, some for fermentation and others for maturation. The use of malolactic fermentation is by far the majority approach in the region, though Krug, Gratien and Roederer are notable exceptions. Nowadays, blend components may even extend to vins de taille, which in former times were relegated to lesser blends. Ruinart’s new Cellar Master Frederic Panaïotis, for example, says that technical advances have caused the taille to be better than ever before, and he now uses a small proportion to contribute structure and complexity to their fascinating range of cuvées. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The alternative, ‘vertical’ blending is the construction of a base wine from components vinified in two or more vintages. Blending across vintages has evolved as a way of evening out variations in quantity and quality of wine produced, and sold, from one year to the next. Its importance for consistency underlies an important law of the Appellation Contrôlée and reflects the central role of NV in the champagne trade: a minimum of 15% of the grapes harvested in any given vintage year must be utilised to produce non-vintage cuvées. Further underlining their dominance of the market, NV cuvées in practice are, almost exclusively, blended predominantly from base wines of the preceding season, with smaller percentages of reserve wines from up to a dozen earlier vintages. Krug is a widely cited example of the contribution of vertical blending to its luxury NV product, Grande Cuvée, which normally includes between a third and a half its final volume of reserve wines derived from six to ten vintages, spanning up to fifteen years. Vintage blending is the more useful approach for Champagne’s small grower-winemakers, whose horizontal blending options are limited by their access to grapes grown only on their own holdings. Whatever the blender’s stylistic and quality objectives might be, and whatever the means of the grower or Maison, blending is a demanding and complex exercise. In many ways, life would be much easier if champagne was simply a matter of bottling the previous year’s production, or that of the year before. It is perhaps pertinent that Krug considers its singlevintage, single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil to be the easiest wine to make – it virtually makes itself. Next in order of difficulty comes the Vintage. But Grande Cuvée is the number one product for which the wines are chosen first. And it’s obviously the most difficult to make – in almost all respects the epitome of the blender’s art.

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The Tenth 130 Text: Christian Göldenboog Photography: Marc Volk A great non-vintage champagne is a pleasure to drink, as it is both harmonious in aroma and seamless in structure. At its best, it delivers an illusion of ease from the wine­ maker’s side. However, an immense amount of thought and effort goes into constructing these perfected cuvées. FINE talked to Dominique Demarville, the nose of Veuve Clicquot and the creative influence behind the Yellow Label. 130 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Cellar Master FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 131

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is essentially a cuvée of numerous origins (crus), several grape varieties and more than one vintage. Contrary to most other wine regions, the standard release of a Champagne House remains a non-vintage wine, although most experts readily speak and write about vintage champagnes or prestige cuvées. This causes most cellar masters to give a weary smile. Dominique Demarville, appointed Chef de Cave at Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in Reims last year, maintains that vintage champagne is not the difficulty. The great challenge of his work lies in Carte Jaune, in Brut Non-Vintage. Because the Champagne region is so far north, the assemblage – the marriage or blending of different crus, grape varieties and vintages – has gained general acceptance as the fundamental recipe. “Our first goal, therefore,” says Demarville of his job, “is to achieve an exceptional Brut Yellow Label.” Within this cuvée he must retain the style of his famous champagne house, regardless of how the current harvest turns out, and this must be achieved year after year. The final result, though, may only be tasted after thirty-six months. Consequently for Demarville, there is no room for failure. Yellow Label, as far as taste is concerned, is a clearly defined champagne: the oenologists look for a balance between the fruit on the one hand, and the roast aroma – such as coffee or toasted bread – on the other. Hunger for balance This “balance”, or equilibrium, is one of the favourite words of the cellar masters of this northern vine-growing region. The fruit aromas of the A fine acidity is also greatly desired, as is a good length on the palate. A weighty responsibility There is no question about it, Demarville works hard and is meticulous when it comes to the details. At the same time, let it be said there are champagne cellar masters who are real showmen – to this class Demarville does not belong. All the assemblage work must be completed by March, and when asked whether he is responsible for six million bottles of Carte Jaune, he replies: “There are a few more than that.” When I inquire as to whether he has night- F I N E Cellar Master Brut Carte Jaune conjure flavours such as peach and apricot, with hints of vanilla often present. A fine acidity is also greatly desired, as is a good length on the palate. According to Demarville, the ‘goût’ (taste) should still be present in the mouth after thirty seconds. In order to achieve this distinguished flavour, the oenologists must carefully search amongst their four hundred reserve wines for a balance between the current and reserve wines. “In 2008 we only had a share of twenty-four per cent reserve wines. To achieve the desired flavour in 2009 we had to work with thirty-four per cent.” But reserve wine is a lot more than just reserve wine. “Last year, 2009, was also very fruity. If we had taken reserve wines that were too heavy or intense we would never have achieved our goal.” No less than ten oenologists work on the assemblage process, with Demarville having the final say. They begin in early October, directly after the harvest, between the alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. All still wines are carefully tasted at least twice, and sometimes as many as four times. As a rule, twenty-four to thirty different wines are tasted every day. This is the maximum, says Demarville, as the mouth inevitably becomes tired. In addition to the four hundred reserve wines, there are some six hundred wines in the current harvest, meaning the oenologists have a thousand or so wines at their disposal. Dermarville characterises his aptitude for absorbing the nose or taste of a wine not as a gift of genetic recombination but rather as training; every oenologist must have a very good recollection of aromas and it is essential to hone this skill. This always takes place in the morning, between eleven and twelve o’clock, when the senses are at their keenest. “This is actually the time when we start to get hungry,” observes Demarville drily. “We humans are like animals - when we are hungry we are vigilant and only look for the best.” “Only the best” is what these Veuve oenologists are looking for — and they sometimes search for perfection once again between five and six o’clock in the afternoon. mares during the degustation process he answers: “No, I don’t get too much sleep during that time.” At our first encounter Demarville had just been appointed the latest (and youngest) cellar master of one of the great champagne houses. After studying oenology in Avize and Burgundy, he first worked for several smaller champagne houses, before moving to Champagne G.H. Mumm in 1994. Just four years later he was named Chef de Cave, and it was during this period that his application to Clicquot was sent. A suitable successor to the legendary Jacques Péters was being sought. I first encountered Péters fourteen years ago, when he was posing in front of Tank 622 for a photo session. Dressed in a suit and necktie, he looked every inch the James Bond of oenology. The fermented gaze, without residual sweetness, revealed that the concept of failure was wholly foreign to him. “When we carry out the blind tasting, we find out why Jacques is cellar master here,” an oenologist from the Clicquot team explained to me at the time. “Péters discerns crus where the rest of us cannot. He’s our boss, and that is why he has the grey hair!” In the meantime his hair has turned white. For twenty-two years he was cellar master of the House; for three years he helped Demarville learn the ropes. At Clicquot, the complex work involving the reserve wines was new to Demarville. “Ultimately, it’s a question of two champagne houses with two distinct philosophies. When I came to Veuve Clicquot I had to forget everything that I had learnt up to that point,” explains Demarville. Naturally, written notes on the composition of the assemblage exist, but in the Champagne region the oenological transmission of knowledge is through word of mouth – from one generation to the next. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 133

Once a year, Demarville meets up with Péters and his predecessor, the now almost ninety-year-old Charles Delhaye, to sample the current assemblage. I was fortunate enough to be present on one such occasion. “Champagne is like culinary art, but without the recipe,” said Delhaye, while I was keen to hear from Demarville just why he had decided to change his job. “Because of the colour,” responded the new cellar master. “From Mumm Red to Clicquot Yellow.” A diplomatic answer. But in the opinion of Jacques Péters this was not merely good diplomacy, but actual fact. According to Demarville, he felt at home with the image, the team and the House. Furthermore, the quality of the champagne had impressed him. The Widow’s riddle “Veuve Clicquot is a wine that is always dominated by the structure, aromas and body of Pinot Noir.” For this it is necessary to thank the energetic BarbeNicole Clicquot Ponsardin (1777–1866), better known as Veuve Clicquot. Demarville speaks of this Grande Dame of Champagne with reverence. “In the 19th century success came to those champagne 134 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA houses that had excellent vineyards and worldwide distribution,” explains Demarville. In that respect, nothing has changed to this day. Above all else, Madame Clicquot was an innovator: she not only brought the first rosé champagne to the market, but also had the idea of designing a very special device. Around 1800, the purification of the wines posed a serious problem after the second fermentation; the champagne had to be repeatedly transferred from one bottle to the next. “In the wine there is a kind of distinct, fine sediment. In spite of every precautionary measure I fear that it is impossible for me to send anything other than this wine with the aforementioned fine sediment,” wrote Madame Clicquot to a customer. The problem caused much racking of brains. The story goes that the widow would clamber down to the cellar, at night and in secret, to work on a solution with her cellar master, Antoine Müller. By 1816, and after a great deal of experimentation, they had constructed the first riddling table, designed to dislodge sediment from the bottles. In “Champagne is like culinary art, but without the recipe,” 1818 this method was refined: inclined holes were drilled into the table so that for the first time the bottles could be placed, neck-down, at different angles. This technical breakthrough boosted sales and the triumphal march of the champagne around the world soon followed. During the 19th century in Berlin, for example, champagne of this kind was so popular, “that one hardly dared to cough in the street for fear of spitting in the face of a champagne salesman.” This is the colourful description of this period by Ludwig Bohne, a Veuve Clicquot representative. Bohne was deemed a most successful salesman, as was Friedrich Wilhelm IV (1795–1861), and with good reason. The stubborn Prussian was named König Clicquot (King Clicquot) by his entourage, although The Widow was to outlive King Clicquot by four years. Meanwhile, Champagne Veuve Clicquot itself is now two hundred and thirty-eight years old, and how many cellar masters have there been during this period? Dominique Demarville is only the tenth. This figure alone testifies to the art and integrity of champagne in general, and the Yellow Label in particular.? >

96p F I N E Cellar Master Tasting notes: Essi Avellan MW and Pekka Nuikki 100p 92p 91p 91p 94p 97p 96p 92p 95p 1942 1923 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 135

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THRILLS & CHILLS Power on Ice 2013 In FInland Is the hIghlIght oF the Bentley extreme drIvIng calendar. here, you can lose yourselF In the sensuous Ballet oF a car drIFtIng on Ice or Push yourselF to the lImIt In a real test oF drIver and machIne Ice Driving 472 x 297.indd 80 17/12/12 14:11:16 Ice D

4:11:16 Four time World Rally Champion, Juha Kankkunen. at Bentley, they know that connoisseurs of fine cars also expect the ultimate driving experience. so while Bentley’s engineers push the engineering boundaries of performance and refinement, the driving team creates ways for owners to explore their cars’ full potential. and where better to push performance and control to their limits, than at the very edge of the arctic, on frozen Finnish lakes? like all things Bentley, Power on Ice is unique. each winter a small number of Bentley aficionados from all over the world converge on a point 7,342km north of the equator: the exclusive winter playground of ruka. the expedition does not venture into these extreme latitudes and temperatures simply for the saunas and scenery. they come for the sinuous ice tracks, designed by four-time world rally champion, Juha Kankkunen and carved into the surface of ruka’s frozen lakes. there, the group embraces the extraordinary art of ice driving and enjoys the camaraderie that Ice Driving 472 x 297.indd 81 comes from sharing an extreme experience, as well as wonderful luxury and well-earned relaxation with friends. driving on ice is all about balance and perfect throttle control, using the massive power to move the car in exactly the direction you want. Juha Kankkunen knows the cars like few others. In 2011, he broke the world ice speed record on the frozen Baltic sea, achieving 330.695km/h in a Bentley continental supersports. “you need to be balanced with the car and not try too hard!” he says. “there’s nothing to beat driving a Bentley at these speeds; the conditions may be perilous but the car responds so well to the slightest adjustment, which gives you the confidence to push even harder.” For 2013, Power on Ice promises everything that regular guests know and love – only more so. Indulgent accommodation in the stylish chalet ruka Peak or private luxury apartments, fine dining, great company and some additional fun with snowmobiles and dog sleds. at the request of some of the guests from 2012, the team has also added private flights between helsinki and Kuusamo to ensure connection times are more convenient. why do Power on Ice attendees speak so warmly of their experiences? yes, there is the scandinavian hospitality. there is the backdrop, too: a magical unspoilt wilderness, merely kilometres from the arctic circle and close to russia’s thickly forested border. a frozen world of deep snow, crystal clear air and white expanses home to bear, eagle, elk and reindeer. under the looming sky of a winter’s evening, the icy landscape can look like something from a fairytale – as though you might have stepped through a wardrobe into narnia. yet, these ice driving initiates make their pilgrimage for reasons far more profound. the exhilaration of handling a thoroughbred car on the most demanding surface is something you have to experience for yourself. after two days on the ice, you have learned to flick the car’s wheel at the precise moment in the turn; to apply power and brakes in perfect timing. what seemed unnatural yesterday is now a confident skill, not soon to be forgotten. you have drifted at speed, enjoyed the insights of working with professionals and shared the company of true driving enthusiasts. you have mastered speed in the most awesome environment of all, with the finest car you could have chosen. when you return home from Power on Ice 2013, you return with memories few others can share To register your interest for Bentley Power on Ice in February 2013, visit www.bentleydriving.com, or call the Bentley Driving team on +44 (0) 1675 445 945 or +1 866 369 4450. 17/12/12 14:11:20

COLUMN ANDREAS LARSSON Eat and drink in pink A re you one of those wine collectors who thinks that rosé champagne is merely a fancy nightclub drink, a vehicle for seduction and not to be taken seriously? Think again! The seductive power we can’t deny, and in nightclubs the rosé reigns supreme; classier than cosmopolitan, tastier than G&T and far more sophisticated than Jack & Coke. But it is here that I make a bold statement – that rosé champagne is also one of the most interesting and versatile wines to pair with food. And I am not only talking about bland canapés. The rosé is a perfect complement to everything from creamy scrambled eggs to the most refined Haut Gastronomie. Unfortunately, champagne is not always enjoyed with the same reverence as a bottle of old Bordeaux, and I think the case is even worse when it comes to rosé champagne. What makes it different from a paler bubbly then? It is a matter of small nuances. Some rosé champagnes would be hard to distinguish from a regular one if you were unable to see the colour. The small dash of red wine adds a dimension of perfume and moves your thoughts towards seductive Pinot Noir and an emphasis on red fruit. We also should not underestimate the aesthetic value of the colour, which at the table – served with delicacies such as veal, salmon, tuna, or raspberries – easily gets the wine romance going. There are many rosé champagnes that are structured and have a pronounced Pinot Noir driven style that smells and tastes of rosé but develop with age in the direction of a red burgundy, combined with the lovely genuity of champagne. A wine of this genre is wonder- 94 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA ful to throw in at any stage of the meal; from starter to dessert. Let’s start with the scrambled eggs then! A perfect Sunday brunch chez moi normally consists of scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and slices of avocado and tomatoes. And lately I have added the small luxury of celebrating a well-deserved day off with bubbles. Nothing does it better than rosé champagne! I was recently offered a bottle of the gorgeous 1999 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé that I decided to sacrifice for brunch. This taught me a few things. Firstly, it is a darn good champagne; powerful with a lot of Pinot Noir character, a nice creaminess, beautiful length and delicate flavours of raspberries and red berries. It was already superb but it will undoubtedly continue to mature for a long time. In addition to its colour, its structure was in perfect harmony with the rich and slightly fatty structure of the salmon, the bubbles easily cutting through the normally difficult texture of eggs. Secondly,

FINE Larsson champagne rarely has such powerful effect as in the wee hours of the morning, more efficient than the most concentrated ristretto; it not only wakes you up but also makes you a nicer person. Thirdly, I realised it is way out of my budget to have this as a staple beverage for breakfast! At lunchtime a nice bottle of rosé is perfect for two if you have the time or even for four if you need to rush back to the office. The benefits are of course the pleasure factor, but also the extra dimension of structure and aroma that a good rosé will offer. One of my truly favourite dishes is sashimi; I love the pure and unadulterated flavours of the sea found in this delicacy. It is complemented by the high level of freshness, purity and elegance provided by a rosé and the bubbles work a special magic with the proteins of fatty tuna and scallops. We also should not underestimate the sheer beauty of the colour: with shiny clear slices of maguro, otoro and deep pink salmon, the colour adds that extra something. For sashimi and sushi I normally opt for a paler, lighter and more Chardonnay dominated rosé champagne such as the excellent NV Billecart-Salmon for its lightness, precision and elegance. The slightly more structured, fragrant and ethereal 2002 Deutz Rosé was a flattering complement last time I was spoiled with a perfect sashimi of toro in Tokyo. Let’s stay with lunch a while longer. If we go from raw fish to cooked and more elaborate dishes, we might need additional structure. I think that rosé champagne fills in the gap nicely for when you want something more fun than Chablis yet lighter than Shiraz. For cooked shellfish, such as crab or lobster, it adds to the luxury factor, while remaining within the realms of the freshness/minerality/lightness factors. On my last visit to New York City I went for some excellent crab cakes at the well-known City Crab restaurant. As I was not in the mood for a dull Pinot Grigio or heady Cabernet, I selected instead a bottle of 2002 Veuve Clicquot Rosé. It is, without a doubt, a very good champagne; very vivid with generous fruit including plenty of peach and raspberry on the palate, zesty and creamy with a nice structure. I have honestly never enjoyed this champagne as much as with the tasty crab cakes, it really was enhanced by enjoyment with food. If we crank up the intensity a notch and move to meat, such as poultry and red meats, I find myself devoted more to Pinot Noir driven champagnes which often display a perfume and silkiness reminiscent of a great red burgundy. Earlier in the year this was epitomised over a pot-au-feu of chicken with asparagus and duck liver. Quenched down with the 2000 Grand Vintage Rosé from Moët & Chandon on a sunny spring day, it was the perfect match. I tried other wines, both red and white, with this meal, but it was the rosé champagne that was spot on. Moët is no newcomer, however, I think that Chef de Cave Benoît Gouez made a beautiful debut with the vintage 2000. This is a perfectly drinkable bubbly from a ripe year that offers creamy Chardonnay flavours in combination with fragrant Pinot Noir. In fact Moët & Chandon is one of the Houses that makes the most distinctive rosé champagnes: they clearly show a different structure, aroma and flavour profile to the blancs. We can, of course, say the same about the rarer Dom Pérignon Rosé, a champagne that I very rarely have had the pleasure of enjoying at the table. One of the lucky occasions was last year when we enjoyed this in the contemporary and stylish F12 restaurant in Stockholm. The Dom Pérignon was served with a very intelligent dish of sweetbreads with curry, and it was close to perfection! A rather avant-garde pairing but it ended up très sublime – a captivating wine in every way; rich, bold, and structured yet very elegant and remarkably fresh. Another one of my old favourites is the majestic Dom Ruinart Rosé that I had the pleasure of tasting on numerous unforgettable occasions in the enchanting cellars in Reims during the Meilleur Sommelier d’Europe competitions. Time after time, a mature Dom Ruinart Rosé was served as the pièce de resistance to pheasant, quail and roe deer. These dishes, en- hanced by a dash of truffles and mushrooms, became magical with a mature and complex vintage, such as the ‘88, ‘85 or ‘79. Lighter mousse, more aromatic complexity and a more vinous structure in these champagnes easily substitutes a red burgundy or even a Rhône wine if you like some variation to your game repertoire, and especially in summertime when you are not always in the mood for a rich red wine, this is the way to go. Currently, on the market you can find the 1996 Dom Ruinart Rosé which is nothing less than a masterpiece. More Chardonnay driven in style and topped with a layer of ethereal and almost Musignylike Pinot Noir, it has beautiful richness and length, it is a wine that will go on for ages. I recently had the pleasure of drinking it with perfectly grilled Kobe beef at the Megu restaurant in New York. Here was gastronomic refinement of the highest level. So, what of desserts then? Often this is where the errors are made. The common mistake is to pair a sweet dessert with a very dry wine, which is a fundamental clash that makes few people happy. Although, I must confess my affection for rounding off a nice meal with something sparkling. The solution then is to choose the right dessert. Desserts based on nuts, almonds, cheese or red berries with very little added sugar can be fun. One all time favourite of mine is nothing less intricate than a fistful of ripe raspberries served with a small crème brûlée made from cottage cheese, heightening the emphasis on saltiness rather than sweetness. Add to this the natural sweetness and acidity of the fruit whose flavours are mirrored in the glass. The last time I tried this combination, it was with serious amounts of the luscious and decadent 2003 Comtes de Champagne Rosé, after which it was hard to avoid thinking of the seductive qualities… So, that apart from the glamorous, aesthetical, and seductive aspects often associated with it, rosé champagne should be considered nothing else than a grand vin and be enjoyed like one. > FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 95

design with a perfumed touch Text: Meri Kukkavaara Photos: Clive Christian If Dom Pérignon is the Bentley of champagnes and Le Pin is the Ferrari of red wines, then surely Clive Christian is the RollsRoyce of kitchens; so perfect and luxurious are they in design, quality and style. Clive Christian is best known for the design of classical and opulent kitchens. The designer’s vision also extends to home furnishings, and in recent years the company has branched out into perfumes. 112 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA The Alpha Kitchen, also known as the ”Moonlight Kitchen”

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THE DESIGNER THE SHOWROOM Clive Christian is a prolific designer for whom luxury is a passion and whose philosophy is to be ‘the best in class’. The brand is unique in today’s high-end market in the UK. Price and quality are the bywords, and the brand is not tied to the conventional quality standards of the industry. Clive Christian’s products are not designed for mass production and have little to do with commercialism. The guiding principle is simply uncompromising quality. Clive was born, the eldest of four children, in Scotland. His father, a biochemist, and his mother, an artist, decided to move the family to England, settling in Cheshire, where Clive grew up and went to school. Having graduated from college, he became a freelance interior designer and soon became interested in kitchen ergonomics. The company that he established in 1978, Clive Christian Home, focused from the outset on bold and classical interior design solutions. In the 1980s, Clive Christian’s famous Victorian kitchen changed traditional ideas about kitchen space – it was not just to be a functional area for preparing food, but somewhere grand to spend one’s time relaxing and entertaining guests. He was also the first designer to incorporate chandeliers into kitchens, an odd idea at the time, although today it has been copied many times over in kitchen design. I visited Clive Christian’s showroom at the Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, in London. This huge exhibition centre, comprising three glass dome structures, is a comprehensive display of designs and furnishings where over 120 famous design houses show off the best of their skills and expertise. Here, people come to look around, pick up ideas and see what the design market has to offer. Some want their small bathroom remodelled; others want their entire country manor redesigned. The exhibition space is a real cornucopia of style, in which you could quite easily spend hours – it is the largest of its kind in Europe. Customers looking for an enhanced shopping experience can hire a personal shopping assistant to steer them through the myriad design solutions to find the right one. Clive Christian’s exhibition is located in the complex’s southern dome. As I walk though its doors, I have the weird sensation that I have just stepped into another sort of reality, wherein everything is imbued with an aura of other-worldliness. Each room is meticulously furnished from floor to ceiling and there is a sense of complete harmony. Here, even the cutlery in the kitchen drawer seems to fit in with the whole. They have their own design and the same flamboyant style that pervades the rest of the exhibition. “The guiding principle is simply uncompromising quality.” 114 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA FINE Design Clive Christian was the f irst designer to incorporate chandeliers into kitchens. 115

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FINE Design My eyes settle on one of the famous chandeliers above the kitchen island. There are several options to choose from in this splendid range of light fittings, and here they really do fit in with the rest of the furnishings; even the bathrooms have them. For there are not only kitchens here: the visitor wanders through a palatial dwelling where each door leads to a more astonishing room. The bedroom has a magnificent four-poster bed and at the touch of a button you can make a flat screen TV either appear or disappear into the huge, solid bed frame. Another touch of a button and you can turn the screen so that it can be watched by anyone seated on the bedroom sofa – of course! In the bathroom, you can keep the bather company while relaxing on a soft divan in the warm glow of glinting crystals. All the bathrooms are large and far removed from the functional, tiled surroundings in which people tend to wash. The unique atmosphere is created by the use of fine wallpaper, wooden panelling, heavy drapes and ornamental wall and ceiling lighting. There is a practical explanation as to why the bathrooms are so large: they are also dressing rooms, in which the solid, made-toorder wardrobes blend seamlessly with their surroundings. I return via the living room, library and dining room to examine the kitchens. The style is very classical and refined throughout, and much of the furniture is from the company’s own collection. In the kitchens, the variations in style are more evident. You can choose between an elegant rustic look or something more classic – either lavish or more restrained. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 117

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THE HALLMARK KITCHENS Mark Harwood, who runs Christian’s showroom, shows me around the kitchens and explains that nowadays there is a global demand for them, with the latest kitchen designs having just been sent off to Monaco and Norway. One of the most popular kitchens is the Alpha, which came onto the market five years ago. It has a more contemporary style and was inspired by the splendour of the Venetian Masquerade Ball in Stanley Kubrick’s film Eyes Wide Shut. Its massive centre island stands on lion paws and a champagne bottle sink can be built into the worktop, if required. This kitchen apparently works best for parties, and the customers have nicknamed it the ‘Moonlight Kitchen’. All of the kitchens feature the latest technology and are ingenious in their planning. For example, the decorative panelling on the side of the worktop might turn out to be, if you press it lightly, storage space. To make life easier for the cook, the heights of the various worktops have been designed to suit the different stages of food preparation. It is this attention to quality, aesthetics and ergonomics that have won people over. More than one customer has started by having their dream kitchen built, only to be so impressed by its quality and sumptuousness that they have gone on to adopt the Clive Christian design throughout the whole house. CLIVE CHRISTIAN PERFUMES The story behind Clive Christian’s perfumes began when he and his daughter Victoria discovered an original 19th century perfume bottle in the floorboards of the family’s country manor. The bottle came from a perfumery that had been crowned by Queen Victoria in 1872 as a token of its incomparable quality. When years later Clive Christian heard that the old perfumery was to cease trading, he decided to buy the firm and take it to a new level of luxury. Victoria Christian, who studied ballet and performing arts and had performed on London’s West End stages, immediately gave up her theatrical career and joined her father’s company to work in the world of perfumes she so loved. She studied perfume in London, Paris and Grasse, and in 1999 launched the definitive Clive Christian Perfume collection onto the market. Today Victoria travels the world as the proud and inspirational representative of Clive Christian perfumes. > FINE Design The Alpha kitchen was inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s movie Eyes Wide Shut. Perfumes No. 1 This luxury scent is famous for being the world’s most expensive perfume. It contains very rare and valuable ingredients and can only be produced in very small quantities every year: just 1000 bottles for women and 1000 for men. Actress Katie Holmes chose this as the perfume to wear at her wedding when she married Tom Cruise. 1872 This perfume was created and named to celebrate the year in which Queen Victoria permitted the original perfumery to bear the crown on its products. The old perfume company’s original fragrance was absolute English lavender, which is still found in the top notes of the 1872 perfumes for men and women. X These unconventional perfumes have been created using some of the strongest aphrodisiacs known. The women’s scent contains Egyptian jasmine from the banks of the Nile. Cleopatra had the sails of her ship doused in jasmine scent when she sailed to meet Anthony, who then fell head over heels in love with her when she glided ashore. “Perfume is your invisible accessory – each drop holds a memory of a moment in your life.” Victoria Christian FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA 119