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CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Editor Essi Avellan MW essi.avellan@fine-magazines.com Deputy Editor Anne Lepola anne.lepola@fine-magazines.com Publishing Editor Meri Kukkavaara meri@fine-magazines.com Editorial adviser Juha Lihtonen juha.lihtonen@fine-magazines.com Editorial Coordinators Craig Houston craig.houston@fine-magazines.com Editorial Assistant Pipsa Salolammi pipsa.salolammi@fine-magazines.com Creative Director Pekka Nuikki Art Directors Samuli Ollikainen samuli.ollikainen@fine-magazines.com Teemu Timperi teemu.timperi@fine-magazines.com Anni Rekonen anni.rekonen@fine-magazines.com Senior Advisers Seija Nummijoki, Tuomas Hirvonen, Martti Viitamäki, Sami Martinkauppi Contributors Pascal Kuzniewski, David Passarello, Philip Tuck MW, Stuart George, Juha Jormanainen, Anna Hakala Photographers Pekka Nuikki Makiko Takehara Publishing Director Jarmo Hietaranta jarmo.hietaranta@fine-magazines.com CBO Anne Lepola anne.lepola@fine-magazines.com Communication Director Markku Vartiainen markku.vartiainen@fine-magazines.com Sales Executives Jérôme Jouanno jerome@fine-magazines.com Bart Schrooten bart@fine-magazines.com Translations Lingoneer Oy Printing House Libris 2009 Price Subscription 4 issues Europe 49 / Rest of the world 79 www.fine-magazines.com Subscriptions subs@fine-magazines.com +358 (0)9 2510 7222 Publisher Oy Fine Publishing Ltd 100 Pall Mall St James London SW1Y 5HP © Copyright: FINE Champagne Magazine Ltd ISSN: 1797-433x Fine Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent to us without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in the European Fine Wine Magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. WRITERS Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki, founder and editor-in-chief of FINE Magazines, is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He has published over twenty international wine and art books, among them In Vino Veritas, a book on investing in wines, Drinking History on fine wines and their vintages between 1870­1970, a book about the Château Mouton-Rothschild ­Wine and Art 1924­2003 and most recently a book about the best German white wines. His next book will be about the 100 Most Important Champagnes. Mr Nuikki is also an award-winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and he has worked as creative director of advertising agency group. He is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Essi Avellan MW Managing Editor Essi Avellan MW is the first Master of Wine from Finland and the second ever from the Nordic countries. She was awarded the Tim Derouet Memorial Award and the Lily Bollinger Medal for excellence in the Master of Wine examination. Ms Avellan contributes to a number of newspapers and international wine and food magazines. Additionally Ms Avellan judges at several wine competitions. Her expertise area and passion is champagne. Juha Lihtonen Contributor Juha Lihtonen is the editor of European, American and Scandinavian FINE Wine Magazine and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine buyer of a major cruising line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Besides his day job, Mr Lihtonen studies for the Master of Wine qualification. Andreas Larsson Contributor The best sommelier in the World in 2007, the best sommelier in Europe in 2004 and the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2002. Mr Larsson has worked as a sommelier in the best restaurants in Stockholm and won the Wine International Sommelier Challenge in 2005. He is a member of the Grand Jury Européen and has occupied many wine juror positions around the world. Mr Larsson is also a wine writer and educator. Andrew Caillard MW Contributor Andrew Caillard MW is a specialist wine auctioneer and wine author. In 1993 he became the fifth Australian to pass the Master of Wine examination winning the highly prized Madame Bollinger Medal for excellence in wine tasting. As an author and wine reviewer Mr Caillard has written widely on Australian wine and wine investment. Mr Caillard is widely respected in the industry and is committed to the advancement of Australian fine wine on the world market. He is a member of the Australian Advisory Board for The Institute of Masters of Wine. Jan-Erik Paulson Contributor Jan-Erik Paulson is one of Europe's leading authorities on mature wines, specialising in Bordeaux and Austria. Mr Paulson has been internationally renowned for his top tastings for 30 years and for his Rare-Wine.com online shop. He is a passionate golfer and lives in Germany with his family. Martin Williams MW Contributor Martin Williams is a consulting winemaker from Australia's Yarra Valley. In addition to Australia he has made wine in Burgundy and California. Martin's qualifications are in chemistry, biochemistry and in oenology. He passed the Master of Wine examination at his first attempt in 1999. He won Australia's Vin de Champagne Award in 2008. 8 International Distribution - Pineapple Media Limited · shcirculation@ntlworld.com · www.pineapplemediauk.com

F ine bubbles T here will be several positive consequences to the economic crisis. Some are small, others greater. One small but pleasant one is slower stock turnover of champagne. In last years' boom, we got all too used to shorter pre- and post-disgorgement ageing times, which made us encounter wines often disappointingly young. Even though both pre- and post-disgorgement ageing is necessary, I would love to see more emphasis put especially on the latter. Champagne does, after all, need significant time to recover from the trauma of the disgorgement. The customary period is between two and three months for most high quality non-vintages, but doubling that as a minimum would be advisable, in order for the wines to show their real quality and potential by the time the bottles reach the consumers. Champenois have marketed the non-vintages' instant drinkability very efficiently, however, they have simultaneously made the faulty generalisation that they do not age. Even though not all non-vintages are ageworthy, the best are fine wines that can have a lifespan of over ten years post disgorgement. We will tackle this issue with the help of Bruno Paillard, a great spokesman for post-disgorgement ageing. Champagne lovers have requested disgorgement dates on the bottles for years now. And I think we have finally reached the point where the market (and the producers) is ready to take the step. Following Paillard's example, BCC Group champagne houses are commencing with it, with Philipponnat and Lanson in the forefront. In these uncertain times, many wish to keep on drinking champagne but prefer to trade down in price and look back into the non-vintage category. With this in mind, we blind tasted a great selection of the current offering, with the aim of finding the best wines within the category. As a result, we are presenting our TOP 10, as well as full tasting notes of the whole range. Blending makes up the soul of non-vintage champagne and we get a deep insight into its secrets in this issue. Champagne's astonishing ageing capacity is celebrated in the spectacular Perrier-Jouët tasting, going back to the oldest existing vintage in champagne, the 1825. The rocketing of champagne prices has come to an end ­ yet another positive consequence of the financial crisis. Even a decline in prices is foreseeable for many champagnes, perhaps making the rarities reachable to us again. We are again presenting some great champagne classics such as Clos des Goisses. Also, Mumm's great terroir driven prestige cuvée R. Lalou is a must to experience. 9 Enjoy FINE Champagne with us, Essi Avellan MW Editor Fi n e E d i t o r i a l

Page 16 177 years of Perrier-Jouët vintages Page 32 Tom Stevenson 10 Page 38 Ad man ­ Eugène Mercier Page 46 The Best Non-Vintage Champagnes Page 68 The Blending puzzle

Page 74 Correcting the big mistake Page 81 My Home Abroad 9 15 16 32 Fine Avellan Ave Fine Nuikki k Fine Gallery Ga Fine Personality n o Editorial Time to retire 177 years of Perrier-Jouët vintages Tom Stevenson -- Encyclopedia of a Man Ad man ­ Eugène Mercier Fine principles to wine evaluation FINE Ranking of Non-Vintages 11 38 Drinking History nki s 44 Fine Evaluation n uat u o Page 96 46 Mumm Cuvée Lalou Fine Champagne n m Fine Larsson o Fine Science in e Fine Discovery n c 66 68 74 Travelling with Non-Vintage Champagne The Blending Puzzle Correcting the big mistake with Bruno Paillard Hôtel de la Paix ­ My home abroad Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1952 Chartogne-Taillet les Barres ­ maximum Authenticity La Briqueterie Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou ­ A Legend Perfected Recommends in Helsinki and world wide L'art de Vivre ­ a Princess is what you a always wanted 81 86 88 Fine Experience n 1000 Finest Wines 0 t Fine Rarity n t 92 96 Fine Restaurant s Fine Legend 106 Fine Recommends n 114 Page 114 L'art de vivre Fine Lifestyle n e Fi n e C o n t e n t s

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Time to retire The future of the Krug family business, which was founded in 1843, was in danger. The company's management solved the situation skilfully by finding a partner, the large alcohol beverage company Rémy Martin, which bought all of the `quiet' shares for itself. The ownership was unified and the quorum was returned to the functioning company, in which even a leader for the company was simultaneously am currently sitting in the Krug family private found within the Krug family ­ Rémi Krug. Again, all family businesses have not been as lucky. A few days later now, I am sitting in the cellar of Romanée-Conti. In front of me sits the owner and long-time manager of the winery, Aubert de Villaine. Aubert, in his late sixties, is ready to step aside from the management duties of the company, at which time he will then have more time to spend with his family and his favourite hobby, fly-fishing. Aubert says, however, that he will continue for at least a few years, because a successor for his work has not been found within the family. Aubert says that he has found a successor for himself outside the family, but prepping him to take over will still take a few years. One less fear, but Aubert's most significant worry about the future of Romanée-Conti concerns its future ownership. When he passes, a number of relatives may become owners of the vineyard, in other words, cousins and second cousins. They are not necessarily interested in the vineyard's activities or its wines, but rather its huge financial value. The situation is difficult, and I understand Aubert's worry and desire to continue as the manager of the vineyard for as long as possible. The same worry about the future keeps many managers of family wineries in the vineyards and drafty cellars for a long time, away from their earned retirement days. Burgundy, specifically, is an example of the problems that are caused by the equal share of inheritance in France. Formerly, famous vineyards and wine lots have splintered in the division of inheritance, and the quality of the respective wines has often deteriorated thereafter. The situation has also increased the consumers' uncertainty about the makers and origin of the wines. Indeed, what would it feel like, if in the future Krug champagnes or perhaps the Mouton-Rothschild red wine, were produced by numerous little Krugs and Moutons, as has been the case with, for example, Chambertin and Clos de Vougeot with Burgundy. People have attempted to change the legislation for a long time already. The future of family businesses still does not, however, look very promising in regards to the legislation. Otherwise, it is also atypical for our times that sons want to continue the work of their fathers, especially when the work is related to farming and takes place far away from tempting big cities. Luckily, exceptions are still found. A couple of years ago when I visited Pétrus, I was especially warmed by the happiness of Pétrus' long-time winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, regarding the fact that his son was continuing his work at Pétrus. If anyone, it would be those winemakers who have dedicated their lives to top wines who have in turn earned their retirement days. After all, one vintage after another, they have delighted all of us who are great friends of wine with magnificent wines and a carefree future. Indeed, I wish the best of retirement days to Rémi, Aubert and Jean-Claude. Thank you and a deep bow. I home, at lunchtime. Waiters in white jackets bring out one course after another, and the 15 glasses are filled with Krug champagnes. The milieu is rather pleasant. On the other side of the table sits Rémi Krug. It was just a while ago that he retired from his managing duties for the world's most renowned champagne house. With Rémi, one can have many opinions about his retirement, because instead of the previous single business card, Rémi now hands me three. Indeed, the man is still incredibly energetic, and enthusiasm and cheerfulness buoy his every sentence. Rémi says that he is quite lucky because his successor was found within the family. Olivier Krug, Rémi's nephew, has now taken charge of the Krug champagne house. Not all family businesses are this lucky. For Krug, things also nearly went wrong. After Rémi's father, Paul Krug, died, the ownership of the champagne house splintered. Due to legislation that was implemented by Napoleon, inheritance ownership in France is evenly divided among all the heirs. Suddenly, Krug had tens of new owners ­ cousins and second cousins. They all had their own goals and hopes for the valuable champagne house that they owned. Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Fi n e N u i k k i

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vintages Text: Essi Avellan MW Photos: Makiko Takehara 17 I was amongst the very privileged and extremely lucky who were invited to Perrier-Jouët cellars for a once-in-a-lifetime tasting. In order to celebrate one of the finest vintages, the 2002, and the launch of Perrier-Jouët's new Belle Epoque vintage from it, we were given the chance to participate in a unique tasting and literally taste champagne history. To commemorate the 177 unique vintages of Perrier-Jouët tasting, the House assigned a Japanese artist, Makiko Takehara, to produce a collection of artwork, which included a piece for each vintage. Artwork has the bottle pictured in it and the styles are inspired by famous artists of the time, from Emile Gallé to Victor Vasarély and Pedro Almodovar. Fi n e G a l l e r y Perrier-Jouët 177 years of Liquid History Book

T he memorable task of the day was to taste 20 of the best wines from the past 177 vintages. This event had gathered together wine and champagne specialists of the highest rank; from Serena Sutcliffe MW to Richard Juhlin and Michel Bettane, all eager to enrich their understanding of champagne with this historical tasting. Not only were there to be four vintages from the 19th century, but we were even going to taste the oldest existing bottle in Champagne, the 1825. 18 With old and rare bottles, unpleasant surprises are commonplace. However, this tasting amazed me with the consistently great condition of the bottles. Only one vintage, the 1892, was corked and the 1971 suffered from slighty premature oxidation. Other than that the experience was perfect. This tasting convinced me further of champagne's ageing capacity and, furthermore, brought my belief in Perrier-Jouët's longevity to another level. But a word of caution is at place. Mainly magnumsized bottles, with their perfect cellaring history of never having left the premises, enabled this superb experience. Going through the decades, it was fascinating to follow the evolution of the P-J house style alongside the general shifts in champagne style. The oldest bottles from the 19th century were very different in profile; much sweeter and richer with a clear impact from added spirits. Most vintages from the 1980´ to 1950´ were s s drinking marvelously, but I was amazed when we got down to the 1928 and 1911. Both are legendary champagne vintages, but even so, their condition, energy and complexity was breathtaking. The 1911 was impressively powerful, whereas the 1928 showed more reservation, but possibly the most elegant and finelytuned balance I have ever sensed in a wine. It left me speechless. 1825 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 90p Deep orange colour. Toasted, smooth fudge and vanilla nose with spicy touches. Slight mushroomy note. Vinous and wide. Sweet, with a lot of cognac clearly added. Persistent, with no bubbles left but enough fresh spine to keep it alive. This old bottle has miraculously resisted the effects of time and there are no signs it will deteriorate quickly. 1825

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1911 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015) 98p 1911 Deep golden colour with a peach hue. Some tiny beads left. Pure, gently toasted, dried fruit nose. Palate more linear, just the tiniest refreshment left. Even a light warmth from alcohol left detectable. Ripe and sweet fruit. Not hugely complex, but very concentrated and impressively powerful. Vinous, with nice palate weight and linear fresh persistance. Lots of life left here. 21 Fi n e G a l l e r y

1928 1928 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015) Deep golden colour and a gentle mousse. Pure and clean nose, very fresh with dried fruit, honey, gentle coffee and aromatic wood, perfumy tones. Mouth-watering citric and even floral fruit depth. Intense and concentrated with just enough sparkle to lift it up. Wonderful weight and depth. Liquid silk with gentle coffee, aromatic wood and perfumuy tones. Long, seamless and astonishingly youthful with no signs of oxidation. The balance is perhaps the most beautiful I have ever seen in a wine. 22 99p

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24 1959 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 94p Deep orange-hued colour. Fine fresh bead remaining. Toasty soft coffee nose. Not as expressive as many before. Less on the fruity side and more woody and nutty. Wide and round. Age shows in the back palate. Some drying tobacco notes. Citric acidity lines the finish.

25 Fi n e G a l l e r y

1985 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2015) Deep, developing lemon-gold colour. Rich, toasty nose, deep red fruit, brioche, coffee, and spiciness. Overt, energetic and charming, lots of layers. Toasty and developed, yet retains it fruity and fresh palate, while keeping the smooth, perfectly integrated mousse. Full, rich and round with complexity and freshness. Perfect now, but will keep. 26 1985 97p

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28 Tasting 2002 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque (2009/2025) 92p Pale, delicate, lemony colour. Subtle, soft white fruit and floral nose. Some delicate lactic complexity over the red apple and grapefruit nose. Mid weight palate with creamy mousse. Short and dry finish. Very youthful still and will gain in charm over time. 1998 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 92p MGM (2009/2018) Perrier-Jouët vintages 177 years of Liquid History Book 1990 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2020) 93p Developing, deep lemony colour. The ripe, fruity and sensuous nose has fine coffee and toasted nuances beyond fresh apple and cream. Wide and rounded with enough acidity to hold the rich fruit together. Long, soft and concentrated. 1985 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2015) 97p Deep, developing lemon-gold colour. Rich, toasty nose, deep red fruit, brioche, coffee and spiciness. Overt, energetic and charming, lots of layers. Toasty and developed, yet retains its fruity and fresh palate, while keeping the smooth, perfectly integrated mousse. Full, rich and round with complexity and freshness. Perfect now, but will keep. Pale youthful colour. A fragrant young stone fruit and floral nose. Delicate and feminine on the palate with hidden intensity and a great, balanced freshness. A lovely elegant vintage for mid-term consumption. Starting to drink wonderfully. 1996 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2025) 94p Developing medium-deep colour. Toasty and minerally nose with gunpowder, hazelnuts and chalky notes. Wonderful balance of fresh lemony fruit and developed smoothness. Elegant, high acidity on the palate, but a wonderful maturing creaminess of aroma and texture. Starting to show its full character. Still highly reductive in style. Lovely lemony length. 1982 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2020) 95p Deep, developing lemon-gold colour. More restrained and feminine on the nose than the richer 1985. Nice toasty, nutty, coffee shop and pastry under notes with lemony complexity. Linear, pure and fresh on the balance. Tightly-knit and long with a longer life ahead than the 1985. 1995 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque (2009/2018) 93p Rich, developing lemony colour. Soft ripe apple and patisserie nose. Harmonious and smooth on the nose. Powerful and rich on the palate. Fine mousse and more width. Smooth and ripe but lacks the backbone or power of the greatest vintages. Wonderful for mid-term consumption and delicious already today. 1979 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 96p Wonderful, rich roasted coffee and ripe fruit. Not as expressive on the palate, more on the restrained side with an attractive, gunflint minerality taking over at the end. Long, linear and lively.

1978 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/now) 93p Developing orange-hued colour. Toasty, soft ripe fruit nose, crème brûlée, pastry and candied fruit. Completely ready now, with developed aromatics and fruit that is starting to fade. Long and soft. 1976 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 91p Deep golden colour. Smooth rounded red fruit and coffee nose. Plump mid palate, rich and velvety. Wonderfully full and sweet fruity finish. 1975 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 94p Deep golden colour. Smooth, coffee bean, lemon and floral nose. Some sweet vanilla and confectionary on the nose. Elegant, feminine and fine. Not impressive but fine-tuned and tightly-knit palate. Nice integration and completeness. 1911 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015) 98p Deep golden colour with a peach hue. Some tiny beads left. Pure, gently toasted, dried fruit nose. Palate more linear, just the tiniest refreshment left. Even a light warmth from alcohol left detectable. Ripe and sweet fruit. Not hugely complex, but very concentrated and impressively powerful. Vinous, with nice palate weight and linear fresh persistance. Lots of life left here. 1906 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/now) 94p Deep, orange hued golden colour. Mature, rich and slightly oxidised, toasted bread autolytic nose. Powerful and wide, smooth and velvety. No bubbles left, but otherwise in good condition. Sweet and honeyed, apple marmalade and raisin aromatics. Long taste. Turned toasty but held impressively well in the glass. 1874 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 93p Deep orange colour. Minuscule beads left. Stylish, clear toast and apricot nose. Butter and cream. Mouth-filling, slightly sweet, weighty but fresh. Long and concentrated burnt sugar and orange marmalade taste. Complex, with woody cognac notes in the finish. 1858 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 87p Deep golden-orange colour. Strong orange liquour and mushroom nose. Syrupy, concentrated and sweet. Pungent volatility. Higher alcohol. Glue-like volatility and saltiness. Liquor-like profile. Very different in style to what we expect of champagne today. 1846 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 82p Deep orange colour. No bubbles. Highly mushroomy, oxidised nose. Woody notes and virtually no fruit left. Pungent. Tar and spiciness with a high alcohol feel. A lot of sweetness. 1825 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/Now) 90p Deep orange colour. Toasted, smooth fudge and vanilla nose with spicy touches. Slight mushroomy note. Vinous and wide. Sweet, with a lot of cognac clearly added. Persistent, with no bubbles left but enough fresh spine to keep it alive. This old bottle has miraculously resisted the effects of time and there are no signs it will deteriorate quickly. 29 1971 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/now) 90p Not a perfect cork. Deep golden colour with orange hints. Toasty smooth but oxidising nose. Pleasant, but not very complex. Some mousse left but fruit is oxidised on the palate, some old mushroomy notes. Not a perfect bottle. 1964 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque MGM (2009/2015) 97p Very deep orange-gold colour. Caramel, vanilla and nutty nose. Bright apricot fruit, honey and flower. Complex and vinous with a fine mousse left. Starting to show its age in the slightly drying finish. Mineral complexity and creamy, broad mouthfeel. First vintage of Belle Epoque. 1959 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 94p Deep orange-hued colour. Fine fresh bead remaining. Toasty soft coffee nose. Not as expressive as many before. Less on the fruity side and more woody and nutty. Wide and round. Age shows in the back palate. Some drying tobacco notes. Citric acidity lines the finish. 1955 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2020) 97p Youthful, deep lemon-gold colour. Fine energetic mousse. Smooth, ripe, pineapple and vanilla toasty nose. Not very powerful but superbly integrated and fine-tuned. Fresh, energetic and pure, will keep. Complete, fresh and long. Seems immortal. 1952 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut MGM (2009/2015) 95p Developed, orange-hued medium-deep colour. Fresh lively bead. Smooth, round, roasted coffee nose. Honey and dried fruit complexity. Rich and wide with a firming spine. Harmonious and balanced. Peaking now but will keep. Fi n e G a l l e r y 1928 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut (2009/2015) 99p Deep golden colour and a gentle mousse. Pure and clean nose, very fresh with dried fruit and honey alongside. Gentle coffee and aromatic wood, perfumy tones. Mouth-watering citric and even floral fruit depth. Intense and concentrated, with just enough sparkle to lift it up. Wonderful weight and depth. Liquid silk. Long, seamless and astonishingly youthful, with no signs of oxidation. The balance is perhaps the most beautiful I have ever experienced in a wine.

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Tom Stevenson Encyclopedia of a Man Text: Essi Avellan MW 33 If you are a champagne lover, you are likely to be well aware of the name Tom Stevenson. Equally likely is that you possess at least some of the 23 books he has written: Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia, Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine, and Wine Report, all being award-winning successes. Stevenson is known as a highly influential and visible person on the sparkling wine scene, a great communicator and an opinionated wine critic. However, less is known about him personally, so I was intrigued to get the chance to learn who the man behind the famous name was. Tom suggested we meet over dinner in one of his favourite London restaurants, Christopher´s. We are sipping our aperitifs in the bar, when Tom starts to tell his life story, from being a boy scout, to the world's widest-acclaimed champagne expert. According to him, it has been his "lazy and comfort-loving" nature that has determined most of his life choices. I find that hard to believe, as we are talking about such a prolific and involved wine person. But he insists it is true and explains: "I am hard-working only if it is something I want to do. For instance, I was a high school drop-out. I was not into academics and did not think it would be useful. As a child I enjoyed swimming, chess and foremost, reading. I ate books. Everything, but particularly science fiction." Fi n e C e l e b r i t y

Tom Stevenson 34 British wine author who has been writing about wine for more than 30 years. His books have been published internationally by more than 50 publishers and translated into over 25 languages. Stevenson has personally won 31 literary prizes, including "Wine writer of the year" three times and the coveted Wine Literary Award, America's only lifetime achievement award for wine writing. Selected publications: · The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia · Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine · The Wines of Alsace · Champagne Born in 1951 "I can get totally sunk into an encyclopedia." In his youth he used to be a boy scout, too. "I had a scout master who worked for the army and seemed to treat us as an "army without guns". Due to my laziness, I often felt it was impossible for me to do, for instance, the long walks. I tired easily and I didn't think I could complete them. But the scout master encouraged me to always walk to the top of the next hill and then the next hill. Finally, I was able to finish the entire journey." Tom says he needs his tasks to be divided into smaller parts like that, middle-goals if you like. "I still work this way with writing. I can't look beyond the first step or I get exhausted. I need to progress chapter by chapter," he explains. With the amount of publications and sizeable works he has completed, it is easy to sympathise with not wanting to think about the amount of work ahead. But on the other hand, Tom is a person who is eternally researching, wanting to gain a full understanding of topics that catch his interest. "Sometimes I get badly sidetracked in research. In the middle of writing an article I can get hung up on details, which eats a lot of time," he says. It may be time-consuming, but it works to his benefit in the end, as he saves no effort and gives his readers thoroughly researched writings, that contribute significantly to champagne knowledge. "I can get totally sunk into an encyclopedia. It is like a never-ending journey. You start with one topic, follow related entries and get deeper and deeper into the subject," Tom explains. It is no wonder then that he has chosen to write a couple of wine encyclopedias.

Lazy achiever "I am very fortunate to have been married for 40 years to someone who enjoys and appreciates champagne as much as I do." By this time we have advanced to the dinner table and Tom continues filling me in on his career: "I dropped out of high school at the age of 16 and went to study catering. Unlike most of my classmates I did not choose a career in fine dining. Instead, I ended up doing industrial catering and became the youngest manager at the age of 18. My "laziness" was recognised also at a management course, where I became famous for writing the shortest business paper ever. The question was about the ultimate aim of management. My paper simply said "make yourself redundant"..." Tom Stevenson's wine career started during his catering days in the mid-1970s. "Part of my job was to build a wine cellar. I knew nothing of wine so I started asking and tasting. And soon I was bitten by the wine bug," Tom recalls. He then worked as a sales representative at a couple of wine merchants and started to write about food and wine. His first article in Decanter was published in 1981, and it was in 1980 that he started to research champagne. "I loved the drink and found myself soon very passionate about it. There were virtually no experts on champagne. The few books that existed repeated errors printed in other books. I composed a list of questions I was troubled with and went on my first two week trip to the area in January 1980. I visited 50 houses in those two weeks, which amounted to more producers than most wine professionals had even heard about at that time ... even recognised," Tom says. When I ask Tom Stevenson what fascinates him about champagne, he considers his answer for a good minute. "I guess it is the fact that champagne is such a well known wine, but a wine that is not well understood at all. It is a very complex product that is remarkable in its flexibility of use. There is so much people should know about the quality and depth of champagne to be able to enjoy it even more," he replies. From the early days of his career, Stevenson dreamed of writing a champagne book, a dream that was soon realised with the release of the book, Champagne, in 1986. But since 1988, Stevenson has also authored several other widerranging publications, including Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia. His career rocketed, as the title became the first wine book to win four literary awards. Stevenson soon developed an additional interest in the wines of Alsace and is considered a world-class expert in that field. For him, it was originally both the taste profile of the wines, as well as geographical proximity to Champagne that made him extend his focus there. The result was yet another praised book, the 600-page Wines of Alsace, that was published in 1994. In 1998, just before the champagne-induced millennium celebrations, came the perfect time for Stevenson to write a comprehensive guide to champagne and sparkling wines, in the form of Christie's World Encyclopedia. For its research he needed to be up-to-date on everything that was happening with wine around the world. This information was hard to come by, as no such book existed, so he decided to create one. Wine Report was born, a book in which leading experts on individual wine areas report on the newest trends and happenings. Quite astonishing achievements from a "lazy" man. But behind Tom, there has been a strong force ­ his wife Pat ­ keeping him focused and organised. Pat has now worked side-by-side with her husband for years, helping to make it all function as well in practice as in theory. I am sure it is she who has taken on the role of scout master, encouraging Tom to reach his sub-goals. Tom gives a great deal of credit to her and goes on about the role of champagne in their life, saying "I am very fortunate to have been married for 40 years to someone who enjoys and appreciates champagne as much as I do." By dessert time, I have learned quite a few things about Tom Stevenson. He appears to me an eternal student and a tireless researcher. But it is his passion for communication, sharing his opinion and knowledge that is his biggest gift. To me, an "encyclopedia-of-a-man". 35 Fi n e C e l e b r i t y

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39 TEXT: PEKKA NUIKKI Eugène Mercier, founder of the lively Mercier Champagne House, was well ahead of his time. He was a man with amazing energy and a vision for out of the ordinary ideas. He was only twenty years of age when his ambition to bring high-quality champagne from high society down to everyday folk began. To gain the awareness of the masses, he promptly developed a highly creative advertising strategy with a series of stunning events, which are even today ­ a hundred years later ­ matchless. Drinking History

40 Count in kilometres, not metres Eugène Mercier was a `big' man, with extremely life-sized ideas useful also for publicity, so it was no surprise that the champagne cellars he built were out of the ordinary. In 1871, he decided to build an authentic underground town. "Count in kilometres, not metres", were his instructions to the architect in charge of the project. It took six years to excavate the 47 tunnels covering 18 kilometres of single level cellars with a direct connection to the Paris - Strasbourg railway line. Eugène thought of the cellars not just as a facility for champagne production, but also as a place to visit and learn. He opened his cellars to the public as early as 1885. Staff were assigned to welcome and guide visitors through the cellars. They were able to enjoy the work of local sculptor Gustave-Andre Navlet, who had been commissioned to carve high reliefs into the chalk. These tours, which are nowadays an everyday event in Champagne, helped to increase awareness of the Mercier brand. This was the first time that Eugène Mercier showed his excellent marketing savvy. Among the many famous visitors Eugène Mercier received was the President of France, Sadi Carnot. On 19 September 1871, at half past three in the afternoon, a guided tour by horse-drawn carriage of the torch-lit cellars was conducted for the President. Eugène Mercier also installed electrical appliances, avant-garde for the time, as well as a steam engine to light the caves and supply power to a network of machines in a number of different workshops. bottle barrel, estimated by administration to hold 1,600 hectolitres, weighing 20,000 kilos and made up of 800 working pieces. Only two years later, the grape harvest produced the needed 1,600 hectolitres of wine to fill the cask. It was the largest vintage ever achieved. Eugène Mercier reserved his most breathtaking showmanship for the three world exhibitions held in Paris. For the first event in 1878, he had already built an enormous cask with a capacity of 75,000 bottles. World's eighth wonder The `Eiffel Tower' of wines One of his greatest publicity stunts was a giant, twenty-ton `Cathedral of Champagne' cask ­ the world's biggest wine barrel. He wanted to build it from old Hungarian oak trees. For this reason he sent his cooper, fittingly named Jolibois (literally pretty woods), to Hungary to hand-pick those 150 oaks, each at least one hundred years old, which would be cut down for the vat's construction. After fifteen years of hard work, on 7 of July 1885 the Mercier's inventory for that day registers: A 200,000 By the time the second fair was to take place in Paris in 1889, his `Cathedral of Champagne' cask was ready. He announced that his cask would be one of the main attractions of the fair. First he had to tear down the walls of the enormous storeroom in which the cask was housed. Twenty-four hours later, on 17 April 1889, the cask was ready for transportation to Paris. It took eight days and nights, twenty-

41 four oxen from Morwan and eighteen horses, to transport the world's largest wine cask, with a 200,000-bottle capacity, from Epernay to Paris. On the journey, two bridges collapsed under the weight, and several others required major repairs. A large number of city lights and building facades were damaged en route. He had to buy five houses, for a small fortune, which he then demolished in order to make way, but the publicity achieved made all the tough work worthwhile. Although the 20-ton cask was overshadowed by the main attraction ­ the Eiffel Tower, it garnered loads of attention. Afterwards it was returned to Epernay, where it was used for blending until 1947. The cheapest advertising campaign In 1900, Paris accommodated the last World Exhibition of the century. Eugène Mercier came up with new ways of bringing his champagne to public attention. First, he organised trips above Paris in a Mercier-branded hydrogen balloon, with great commercial success. Over Drinking History

42 10,000 Parisians discovered Paris at an altitude of 300 metres, that is to say the height of the Eiffel Tower, in a captive balloon with his brand name painted in 3-metre high letters to be seen from the ground. It also became the first advertising medium of its kind. On the 14 November, when the fair officially closed its gates, a ceremonious flight from Paris to Epernay was organised. The journey started in fabulous weather, but near Epernay the weather changed and while trying to land, they lost the control of the valve and, against their will, a random, yet rapid flight began. After four hours and immense difficulties they finally landed in a small village called La Besace, not far from the Belgian border. The border police inspected the balloon and found six bottles of champagne. The pilot got a fine for the illegal importation of alcohol. "This is the cheapest advertising I've ever done. The press reports on this adventure will end up costing me less than an eighth of a cent a line", Eugène Mercier cheerfully said. The world's first advertising film Even more successful was his screening of the advertising film called `The making of champagne, from grape to the glass', made by Eugène himself with the help of the legendary Lumière brothers. It took nearly two years to shoot a film that lasted just a few minutes. Precisely 3,723,821 visitors queued to see this very first advertising film of the Mercier champagne production process. No future without a past For its present popularity, Mercier owes the biggest thanks to this unprejudiced man who understood the meaning of publicity, aggressive price policy and wider target groups, much earlier than his contemporaries. He understood even at that time, that marketing a product is at least as important as the quality of the product. Judging from champagne houses'

43 conservative and overconfident approach to the market and its customers, this is a fact that many a modern champagne house still has trouble holding on to. If you would today ask an average Frenchman to name one champagne house, the answer would in all likelihood be Mercier. Almost 90% of its whole production is indeed consumed on French soil. Ha v i g Having worked man years in the Having worked many years in the orke r e many ears any h advertising business, my interest in the Mercier brand was obviously expected, but it was still quite a surprise for me that this everyman's champagne from an average year also sparked my interest, so well brought-up was this 1941 Mercier Brut Réserve champagne. 92p 1 1941 Mercier Brut Réserve 2005/Drink now Very good-looking bottle, almost in mint condition. Decanted for 30 minutes. Marvellous bright, gold colour with some tiny, slow running bubbles left. Clean and fresh, delicate bouquet with hazelnut and apricot flavours, very honeyed. Round and luscious, showing age and immense richness, but the finish appeared to be slightly sharp, one-dimensional and short. However, it was a splendid wine with great balance, and far from an average, everyday champagne. It should be drunk fairly quickly after opening. An old, gentle champagne with a captivating commercial saga. Drinking History

Wine Evaluation and Point System FINE evaluates all wines in circumstances as similar as possible to those which our readers would encounter them. In order for the evaluations to be truly beneficial for the reader, we always act upon the following norms: We always evaluate the wines in good company ­ We strongly believe that the best part of enjoying a wine is sharing the joy and pleasure. We do not taste the wines blind ­ Our readers do not usually drink their wines blind, so we are always aware of its name, origin or vintage when tasting. These factors naturally have an effect on the experience of the wine. The separate blind tastings are an exception to this rule. We give points to the wines based on their current enjoyment possibility ­ We believe that the most significant factor is how the wine in your glass tastes today, not ten years from now. This is why one of our most important tasks is to find, amongst the thousands of wines we taste, those that are at their peak right now. In most cases we evaluate the wines in Riedel tasting glasses ­ As our readers do not always have the possibility to enjoy wine in the perfect glass, we have chosen the neutral Riedel tasting glass for our evaluations. Together with the wine evaluation, we also advise how the wine should be served to enable the best enjoyment. As one of FINE's fundamental values is to support excellence, we have made the decision to not publish wines that receive below 79 points in our evaluations. We also appreciate wines that represent excellent value in their price to quality ratio and we present these for our readers' benefit. TASTING NOTE EXPLANATION We use a 100-point evaluation system, where the wines have been divided into the following categories: 99­100p A wine with the wow-effect. Sheer perfection to all senses by every parameter of wine quality. A true gift from nature. 86­89p A good wine with balance and complexity. 80­85p An average, though well-made wine. Nose and palate are somewhat one-dimensional and impersonal. 95­98p An outstanding wine that leaves an unforgettable tasting experience with its perfect structure, complexity and personality. 50­79p A modest and straightforward wine lacking life and harmony. This wine is excluded from appearing in FINE. 90­94p An excellent wine, that stands out by balance, intensity, complexity and character.

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In good and in bad, champagne is the most branded wine in the world. You can go to a restaurant anywhere in the world and order the familiar Yellow Label of Veuve Clicquot. It will be consistent in quality and style, as well as in the brand message it sends. The nonvintage category is fascinating as it is a balance between brand images and the actual gustatory qualities of the wine. 44 Text: Essi Avellan MW /Juha Lihtonen / Pekka Nuikki s llan W /Juh n en ek e uik ikki Therefore, tasting them blind is a great exercise that allows us to get rid of old brand prejudices and to find which champagne really tastes best in your mouth. Despite consistency year in and out being the goal, there are rising stars and evident disappointments. FINE blind tasted through the current non-vintage offering and here is our up-to-date assessment of what you can buy on the market.

N on-vintage (NV) champagne manifests mastery of blending. It is here where the cellar master shows his greatness: dozens, if not hundreds, of wines from different varieties, origins and vintages are blended together in a way that makes the resulting wine greater than the sum of its individual parts. What is gained is champagne consistent in quality year in and out, possibly in quantities the other wine regions can only dream of. industry. Commonly, it makes up over 80 per cent of each champagne houses' production. Therefore, despite a nice hype around specialty products, it is the non-vintage that determines both the image and financial success of most houses. Clovis Taittinger of Champagne 45 Taittinger explains: "Even though people know our Comtes de Champagne, it is Taittinger Brut Réserve they base their quality opinion on, as that is what they drink." Cellar master Hervé Deschamps of PerrierJouët calls the non-vintage the "business card of the house". If you talk to Champenois, many of them are likely to tell you that the non-vintage is their favourite wine in the range. At Mercier, they call it their flagship wine. In addition to the NV's commercial importance, it is also the wine that is most difficult to make, the one in which human intervention is greatest. Bruno Paillard adds: "In this marginal climate we live in permanent uncertainty. And it is people who need to compensate for the nature's caprices. Therefore, blends are superior in this region." Fi n e C h a m pa g n e Non-vintage is the bread and butter of the

46 The components "Blending is the salt and pepper of champagne", confirm's Roederer's cellar master, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon. And it really is a question of "spicing" or finetuning when you think of the job of the cellar master, whose aim is to build a balanced and complex wine from numerous singular wines. At Roederer, they vinify approximately 450 wines each year. The final cuvées are constructed by blind tasting wines from the three grape varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, as well as wines from dozens of individual villages, each possessing their unique characteristics. You can read more about the aims and challenges of assemblage in the Blending Puzzle article in this magazine. The difference in blending for vintages and non-vintages are the reserve wines from previous years that are blended into the latter. The benefits of such procedure are manifold: firstly, it enables consistency year in and year out. The aim is that the customer is not able to detect changes in vintages, easing the perceived risk of wine purchase. Cellar master Frédéric Panaïotis of Champagne Ruinart comments: "The amount of reserve wines we use for Ruinart NVs is approximately 20 per cent. The wines are not very old, as the Ruinart house style is based on freshness and elegance. We use the reserve wines primarily for consistency." But reserve wines are important contributors to house style too. Some producers such as Veuve Clicquot have a rich, evolved style that is created by significant proportions of reserve wines, that can date back many years. Blending is also a form of insurance, as due to this process, it is possible to maintain consistent wines in volumes, even in poor years. Therefore, with the non-vintage wines, the cellar master's task is not to make the best possible wine each year, but to respect the house style and hide the vintage differences. Consequently, winemaking-wise it is the opposite of vintage wines, where the aim is to show each year's particular characteristics. Thus,

be here to stay. Prior to the boom, rosé three per cent of total production. Now it has climbed to record heights, with many producers such as Lanson now reporting 10­15 per cent shares. Ready to drink or not? As discussed elsewhere in this magazine, the main slogan for the champagne producers is that the NVs are ready to drink at the time of launch. They certainly there is very little room the for the cellar master's creative freedom in making the non-vintages. There is one winery that opposes that particular mentality for non-vintages: are, but in the case of high quality wines, they are far from being at their best. The NVs have reserve wines in them that bring them around earlier. Also, a high proportion of Pinot Meunier in the blend contributes to early drinkability. However, we find the minimum ageing requirement of 15 months on lees not to be sufficient in gaining enough autolytic influence on aroma or structure. Also, the significance of post-disgorgement ageing is understated by many. In particular, last years' boom made many producers shorten the maturation times to meet the demand. The case has, however, turned around 47 "Blending is the salt and pepper of champangne" Jacquesson. They rename each and every blend (Cuvées 729, 730, 731 etc.) and print the exact blending components on the back label. This enables Jacquesson to tailor the best possible wine each year and not to focus solely on consistency. This also allows the consumers to evaluate and appreciate the development of the wine in bottle, as the age is a known factor. Rosé sans année The rosé category has been the star performer of recent years and it seems to since then and now we can enjoy more mature champagnes, as the sales have slowed down remarkably. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e champagne's share was commonly under

Remi Krug dislikes the term non-vintage saying that "Krug is non-nothing". Multi- or non-vintage? The Champenois are fabulous marketers in general, but there are some exceptions to that rule. One of them is the term nonvintage. Rémi Krug dislikes the term saying that "Krug is non-nothing". Also, many other producers prefer describing their wines with positives: multi-vintages rather than non-vintages. The terms are used interchangeably today, but a solution 48 should be found. One could change the entire category to multi-vintage, as that is what they essentially are. Or the term multi-vintage could be reserved for the prestige cuvées blended of several vintages' wines, whereas the entry-level champagnes would remain non-vintages.

The verdict The quality level was fairly uniform, with most of the wines averaging around 85 to 87 points. There were, however, a dozen champagnes that stuck out with their personality and quality. Most of them possess a lovely potential for further ageing. Some of the wines were clearly fresh disgorgements and did, therefore, not show as well as they could have. But such a possible misjudgement is a problem of the NV category if disgorgement dates are not known and the wines sent early onto the markets. Many of the grower champagnes ended up slightly disappointingly below 85 points, as their singularity and sometimes slight rusticity lowered the marks. However, taking price quality-ratio into account, there are some great purchases to be had there. The rosé category was less consistent and exciting than the regular NVs, with only two wines surpassing 90 points. It is, however, a matter of taste if one prefers the rosés over the regulars. Then their price premium should not be a problem either. 49 There were a dozen champagnes that stuck out with their personality and quality. The way we tasted The FINE editorial team had a challenging but intriguing task of blind tasting over 100 non-vintages. Each of us gave points to the wines, based on their condition today, on a 100-point-scale. An average point was calculated and where our assessments were more than four points apart, the wine was re-tasted and assessed. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e

Non-Vintage Champagnes 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve 2009/2017 ...........................................93p Louis Roederer Brut Premier 2009/2017 ..................................................91p Taittinger Brut Réserve 2009/2013 ..........................................................90p De Venoge Brut Blanc de Noirs 2009/2013 ...........................................90p Pommery Pop Earth Brut 2009/2012 ........................................................90p Cattier Brut Premier Cru 2009/2013 ........................................................90p Pol Roger Brut Réserve 2009/2015............................................................90p Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte-Anne Brut 2009/2015 ...................90p Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P 2009/2013 ..........................................................89p 32. Jacquart Extra Brut 2009/2012 ..................................................................88p 33. Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir 2009/2012 .........................................88p 34. Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Pure 2009/2014 ..........................87p 35. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut 2009/2015...........................................87p 36. Mumm Cordon Rouge 2009/2013 .................................................................87p 37. Mailly Grand Cru Brut Réserve 2009/2013 ...........................................87p 38. Louis Roederer Carte Blanche Sec 2009/2015.....................................87p 39. Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Blanc de Blancs 2009/2014............................................................................87p 40. Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve 2009/2013.............................................87p 42. Lanson Black Label Brut 2009/2013 .........................................................87p 43. H. Goutorbe Cuvée Tradition 2009/2012.................................................87p 44. Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial 2009/2012 .............................................87p 45. Mercier Cuvée du Fondateur Brut 2009/2011 .......................................87p 46. Henri Abelé Brut 2009/2013 ...........................................................................87p 47. Blondel Carte d'Or 2009/2012 .....................................................................87p 48. A. Chauvet Blanc de Blancs Brut 2009/2010 .......................................87p 49. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 ..........................................................86p 50. Bruno Paillard Brut Premiere Cuvée 2009/2017 .................................86p 51. Deutz Brut Classic 2009/2012 ......................................................................86p 10. Gosset Grande Réseve 2009/2017 ...............................................................89p 50 11. Delamotte Brut 2009/2014.............................................................................89p 12. Bollinger Special Cuvée 2009/2015...........................................................89p 13. Canard Duchêne Cuvée Leonie 2009/2013 ..............................................89p 14. Ruinart Brut 2009/2013....................................................................................89p 15. Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut 2009/2014 .....................................................89p 16. Pommery Brut Apanage 2009/2014 .............................................................88p 17. De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2013 ....................88p 18. Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2009/2014 ...................................................................88p 19. Mailly Grand Cru Extra Brut 2009/2013................................................88p 20. De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select 2009/2014 ................................88p 21. Ayala Zero Dosage Brut Nature 2009/2014 ..........................................88p 22. Henriot Blanc Souverain Pur Chardonnay 2009/2015 ....................88p 23. Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut 2009/2015........................................................88p 24. Agrapart Terroirs 2009/2013 ........................................................................88p 25. Henriot Brut Souverain 2009/2015 ............................................................88p 26. Pommery Brut Royal 2009/2013 ...................................................................88p 27. Mailly Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs 2009/2014.......................................88p 28. Ayala Brut Majeur 2009/2014.......................................................................88p 29. Vilmart Grand Cellier 2009/2013 ...............................................................88p 30. Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut 2009/2013 ......................................88p 31. Bonnaire Grand Brut 2009/2015 .................................................................88p 52. De Saint Gall Premier Cru Brut Tradition 2009/2011 .......................86p 53. Philipponnat Brut Royale Réserve 2009/2013.......................................86p 54. Pierre Gimonnet Brut 2009/2011 .................................................................86p 55. Heidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top 2009/2013 ....................................86p 56. Mumm Cordon Rouge Demi-Sec 2009/2012 .............................................86p 57. Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial 2009/2011 .........................................86p 58. Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Brut 2009/2011 ................86p 59. Mercier Brut 2009/2011....................................................................................86p 60. Jacquart Demi-Sec 2009/2011 ........................................................................86p 61. Jacquesson Brut Cuvée No 733 2009/2013 .............................................85p 62. Thiénot Brut 2009/2013....................................................................................85p 63. Bonnaire Brut Tradition 2009/2011............................................................85p 64. Richard Fliniaux Carte Perle Cuvée Speciale 2009/2011 ................85p

65. Pannier Brut Selection 2009/2011 ..............................................................85p 66. Mercier Demi-Sec 2009/2011 ...........................................................................85p 67. Alfred Gratien Brut 2009/2013....................................................................85p 68. Jacquart Brut Mosaïque 2009/2012 ..........................................................85p 69. Frank Bonville Grand Cru Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 ............................................................................85p 70. Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Brut 2009/2010 ............................................85p 71. Comte Audoin de Dampierre Demi-Sec 2009/2010 ...............................85p 72. Charles de Villenfin Brut 2009/2010 .......................................................85p 73. Camille Bonville Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 ............................................................................85p 74. A. Robert Brut 2009/2010 ...............................................................................85p 75. A. Chauvet Brut 2009/2010............................................................................85p 76. Charles Lafitte Cuvée Speciale 2009/2011.............................................84p 77. André Clouet Brut 2009/2012 ......................................................................84p 78. David Léclapart L´Apôtre a Trépail Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2011....................................................84p 79. Duval Leroy Brut 2009/2011 ..........................................................................84p 80. Richard Fliniaux Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010 ......................................84p 81. Maxime Blin Carte Blanche Brut 2009/2010 ........................................84p 82. Marguet Pére & Fils Grand Cru Brut Réserve 2009/2010 ..............84p 83. Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Noir 2009/2010.............................................84p 84. Comte de Dampierre Grande Cuvée Brut 2009/2011 ..........................84p 85. Charles Mignon Brut Premier Cru 2009/2010 .....................................84p 86. Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010 ...........................................................................84p 87. A. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut 2009/2010 ..........................................84p 88. Autréau de Champillon Demi-Sec 2009/2010 ........................................82p 89. David Léclapart L´Àrtiste Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2010 ..................................................83p 90. Collard-Picard Cuvée Selection Brut 2009/2010.............................83p Non-Vintage Rosé Champagnes 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Chartogne-Taillet Rosé 2009/2013 ............................................................90p Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé 2009/2012 ...................................................90p Boizel Brut Rosé 2009/2013...........................................................................89p Laurent Perrier Rosé Cuvée Brut 2009/2013 ........................................89p Pommery Apanage Rosé 2009/2013 .............................................................89p Henriot Rosé 2009/2013 ...................................................................................89p Mumm Rosé 2009/2011........................................................................................89p Ruinart Brut Rosé 2009/2011 .........................................................................88p Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut Rosé 2009/2014 .....................88p 10. Philipponnat Réserve Rosé Brut 2009/2012 ...........................................88p 11. Alfred Gratien Rosé 2009/2012 ...................................................................88p 12. Collard-Picard Rosé Brut 2009/2011 .......................................................88p 13. Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial 2009/2011 ..............................................87p 14. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Rosé 2009/2013 ..........................................87p 15. Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé 2009/2012 ...........................87p 16. J.J. Richard & Fils Ay Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru 2009/2010 ................................................................87p 17. Bollinger Rosé Brut 2009/2013 ...................................................................86p 18. Deutz Rosé 2009/2012 .......................................................................................86p 19. Duval Leroy Brut Rosé 2009/2011 ...............................................................86p 20. Charles Lafitte Rosé Brut 2009/2012.......................................................85p 21. Bonnaire Brut Variance Boisé 2009/2012 ...............................................85p 22. Charles Mignon Comte de Marne Rosé 2009/2011.............................84p 23. Mercier Demi-Sec Rosé 2009/2010 ..............................................................84p 24. Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé 2009/2013 ......................................................84p 25. Pannier Rosé Velour 2009/2012 ...................................................................84p 51 Fi n e C h a m pa g n e

no. 1 Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve After three long days of non-vintage champagne blind tastings, we had a wine in the glass that made us all believe that we had been mistakenly served a prestige champagne. It was the complexity, rich creamy texture and evolution of the wine that delivered the impression. This champagne bared just more than any other nonvintage champagne. Thus, it is indisputably awarded the best non-vintage champagne in the FINE Champagne Magazine ranking. It is rewarding to see that this once highly acclaimed brand has found its renaissance and succeeded in its revival. Thanks to a great cellarmaster, winemaker and blender, the late Daniel Thibault, who with the financial support of Rémy Cointreau's, was able to create a unique wine for markets in the early 1990s. Thibault's concept was to create a non-vintage champagne with rich texture and complexity. As a standard non-vintage champagne constitutes of the latest vintage wine blended with some reserve wines of past two to three years, Thibault wanted to increase the amount of reserve wines in the blend to persuade the complexity. To gain this, he needed several vintages of reserve wines in stock. Since there was no stock of older vintages at Charles Heidsieck, they needed to create one. This was a financially costly decision for Rémy Cointreau, as the immense amount of bottles were stocked in each year instead of being released on sale. Finally, in 1992, Thibault's first special non-vintage champagne was released. Brut Réserve was based on the 1991 harvest, while 40 per cent of the blend was reserve wines from eight vintages. The trial was very successful and Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve gained the status of grand multi-vintage champagne, referred to Krug Grande Cuvée and Laurent-Perrier Grande Siècle by its quality, but at just half the price. JL 52 93p C Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve 2009/2017 purity and intensity. Persistency and class, with a beautiful autolytic touch. Lingering long and elegantly rich finish. Deep lemon-gold colour. Fragrant and prominent nose of delicious sweet apples and tropical fruits. Broad and powerful on the palate with great fruit no. 2 Louis Roederer Brut Premier It was no surprise our mouths voted Roederer Brut Premier so high in the blind tasting. Roederer's perfectionist approach to viticulture and winemaking produces wonderful output throughout the product line. The key to quality is in their own vineyards, which account for two thirds of production. The vines are over 25 years old on the average and yields are kept modest. The house belongs to the five per cent minority in Champagne who block malolactic fermentation. Therefore, the style searched is high in acidity but it is tied to an uncompromisingly perfect fruit maturity. The varietal blend has 40 per cent shares of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are complemented by 20 per cent of Pinot Meunier. The share of reserve wines is modest, at just 10 per cent, as the style is heavily dependant on ripe, fresh fruitiness. The high quality fruit and non-maloed style guarantee one of the longest lived non-vintage champagnes. We recently got our hands on over 10 year-old releases which proved to be wonderful and appeared more like vintage quality than non-vintage. Even though it is amongst the most expensive NVs, it is well worth the money. EA 91p L Louis Roederer Brut Premier 2009/2017 purity. Linear and fruity. Delicious and long with a nice crisp back bone. Fine and elegant. Medium-deep youthful lemony colour. Developing, mineral, gunflinty, roasted nose. Clean, sweet, citric and tropical fruit on the palate. Wonderful fruit

no. 3 Taittinger Brut Réserve Taittinger has that magical something in its wines that makes it stand out in quality and personality time and again in blind tastings. To me, it is the freshness and fragrance, the sublimely pure fruit tied to it, leaving a very energetic overall appeal. Elegant and feminine style is Taittinger's hallmark. It is created by a high proportion of Chardonnay in the wines. In the Brut Réserve it makes up 40 per cent, with the rest being a blend of the red varietals. This style was already chosen by Pierre Taittinger, who acquired Champagne Fourneux in 1932 before renaming it Taittinger. The core of the Chardonnay comes from premium Côte de Blancs villages, which contributes significantly to the style. In the winery, cellar master Loïc Dupont maintains a reductive winemaking style, with the first fermentation taking place in stainless steel. The softening malolactic fermentation is then carried out. A generous 13 g/l dosage rounds up the wine nicely and adds to its seductive style. Taittinger´s style is based on fresh fruitiness and is not the NV I'd recommend prolonged bottle maturation for. However, post-disgorgement ageing of around one to two years post-release seems to get the most from the wine. EA 90p T Taittinger Brut Réserve 2009/2013 good intensity, elegance and a refreshing spine. Harmonious and complete. Medium-deep developing yellow colour. Soft, sweet white flower and white fruit nose. Balanced with 53 no. 4 De Venoge Blanc de Noirs This traditional champagne house, founded in 1837 by a Swiss, Henri-Marc de Venoge, had the misfortune of losing family ownership after the turbulence of the world wars. Marquis de Mun, who was married to Yvonne de Venoge, passed away in 1922, leaving his mother-in-law and his widow in charge of the company. After the last direct heir of the de Venoge family left the company in 1958, it traded hands several times, losing its vineyard holdings along the way. It has now found a home as a part of the Boizel Chanoine Champagne (BCC) group, who have taken several traditional champagne houses under their wing, providing them with financial stability and the resources for developing their brand and wines. De Venoge has always struck me as a great value producer and their basic Cordon Bleu did well in our tasting, too. This Blanc de Noirs was added to the range in 1988. The cuvée was tailored from a gastronomic point of view and it was its firm spine and vinosity that convinced us in this tasting. The blend is of 80 per cent Pinot Noir and 20 per cent Pinot Meunier from selected crus. De Venoge has used the blue ribbon as their trade symbol since 1851. It combines the family roots of their local river, Venoge, in Switzerland, with the famous symbol created by King Henry III of France for the Order of the Holy Spirit in 1578. However, it is this Blanc de Noirs and the rosé NV that are the exceptions. The Blanc de Noirs shows a picture of Marquis Adrien de Mun and Yvonne de Venoge is illustrated in the rosé. EA 90p D De Venoge Brut Blanc de Noirs 2009/2013 Nice elegant depth and long focused length. Bright and very clean fruit expression. Pale lemony colour. Soft, nutty and lemony, sweet peach and tropical fruit nose. Overt fruit on the medium-bodied and fresh, rounded-off, dry palate. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e

no. 5 Pommery Pop Earth Brut reduction of glass usage in total. This has resulted in reduced transport volume, energy consumption and carbon dioxide emissions. In 2007 Pommery succeeded in reducin the use of water on producing a bottle of champagne from 1.67 to 0.50 litres. All the labels are made from recyclable paper with solvent printing. The bottles are sold without a jacket in six bottle cases. Waste water and other materials are all recycled. Although the production of the wine is based on admirable principles, it is still purely the taste in its complexity, harmony and richness that sets the wine in such a high ranking. Pommery POP Earth differs from Pommery´s POP Brut with a lower dosage of 10 g/l. It is an equal blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. JL There are only a few champagnes one can feel as good drinking as this wine. It delivers not only the pleasure of taste of the harmonious champagne but also the feeling of contributing some good for the environment. For Pommery, this contribution took over ten years to create. It is a result of the sustainable development and environmental protection programme Vranken-Pommery Monopole Group has been devoted to for over a decade. The vineyards are cultivated applying sustainable viticulture, avoiding the use of pesticides while the winemaking is completed in the traditional way. The biggest difference to other brands is in packaging. Since 1998, Pommery has reduced the weight of its bottles by 35 grams per bottle yielding 4,300 tons 90p P Pommery Pop Earth Brut 2009/2012 M Medium-deep lemony colour. Smooth, nuanced and delicate tropical fruit nose. Long, rich and d gentle palate. Creamy m mousse and good length. g gentle palate. no. 7 Pol Roger Brut Réserve no. 54 6 Cattier Brut Premier Cru Champagne Cattier is one of the curiosities in Champagne. The Cattier family has cultivated vines since 1763, but launched their own champagne only in 1918. The peculiarity of the house is their commitment to produce nonvintage champagnes even at the highest degree. They have been pioneers of the single vineyard champagne concept with their 2.2 hectare Clos du Moulin plot. The latest launch was the super-luxury brand, Armand de Brignac Ace of Spades, which has taken its position as No. 1 celebrity champagne in the US. However, this classic non-vintage champagne expresses the competence of both the terroir and know-how the Cattier family prosesses. This champagne is produced from the grapes of their own vineyards at Chigny-Les-Roses. The blend is 75 per cent Pinot Noir and 25 per cent Chardonnay. JL Established in 1849, Champagne Pol Roger remains family-owned and proudly independent to this day. Pol Roger, the 1831 born founder of the house, had lived in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ his whole childhood. From early on Pol Roger focused in exports, and the English market was the most important one from the beginning. The commercial success of the company had its roots in the business model where they produced other champagne brands in the Pol Roger facilities. Much has changed since those days. Pol Roger is now one of the few remaining family owned Grande Marque champagne businesses. Christian de Billy's son Hubert is actively involved in the company but Pol Roger recently recruited their first managers, Patrice Noyelle and Laurent d'Harcourt, from outside the family. Extensive vineyard holdings of 89 ha, and perfected skills in the art of blending hold the secret to the quality. The entire board of directors and many family members participate to the blending decisions. Total production at Pol Roger is in the region of 1.5 million bottles per annum. The elegant and technically perfected, toasty and intense style is Pol Roger's hallmark that charmed us in this blind tasting, too. The wine is blended from around 30 base wines, still base wines drawn from at least two vintages, and the three varieties of champagne, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier blended in equal portions. Customarily the amount of reserve wines is between 20 and 30 per cent. The Pol Roger cellars are one of the coolest in Champagne, averaging at 9.5 degrees contributing to the fine house style. After three years in bottle and the following disgorgement, the wine receives 5 months' additional bottle age before release. EA 90p C Cattier Brut Premier Cru 2009/2013 Deep lemony colour with a green tinge. Rich and toasty, wonderfully sweet tropical fruit and mineral nose. Smoky minerality on the palate too. Nice autolysis effect starting. Very dry, but intensely fruity and fresh. Will improve with bottle ageing. 90p P Pol Roger Brut Réserve 2009/2015 Pale lemony colour. Fragrant, ripe white fruit nose. Elegant feel with some overripe tones as well as mineral complexity. Pleasantly fluffy mousse. Long, linear and creamy. Stylish with a lot of personality.

55 Fi n e C h a m pa g n e

90p C Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte-Anne Brut 2009/2015 Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Round and rich, toasty burnt sugar, tropical fru fruit nose. Still youthful and restrained on the palate. Stylish creamy mousse. Good degree of complexity and a long length. 88p M Mailly Grand Cru Extra Brut 2009/2013 Me Medium-deep, rich toffee nose with nice red fruit touch. Round, ripe fruit on the wide palate too. Crisp, tart, acidic backbone. Good rip concentration and length. Easy to drink, fruit-forward style. L La 89p Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P 2009/2014 Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Mineral and tight white flower and smoky nose. Very mineral on the palate lined with bright tropical fruitiness. no Tight-packed and linear. Very dry. D 88p De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select 2009/2014 De Developing deep yellow colour. Rich, sweet roasted nose, with bruised apples and spiciness. Wide and round on the palate. Pleasing bru and charming, but lacks the spine of a super premium non-vintage. Clean and harmonious. Easy to approach and ready to drink. G Gosset Grande Réserve 2009/2013 A Ay 88p Ayala Zero Dosage Brut Nature 2009/2014 Pa Pale lemon colour. Fruit-forward soft nose with a nice autolytic toastiness and delicate pure fruit: citrus, melon and tropical fruits. Very dry and lean, an crisp acidic body. Nice intensity and focus. Long, stylish and charming. 89p De Deep developing lemon-gold colour. Soft, evolving lactic nose. Apples and dust. Mid-weight and lac rounded. Balanced but with a rustic dusty touch. Lots of personality and richness. 89p Delamotte Brut 2009/2014 H He 88p Henriot Blanc Souverain Pur Chardonnay 2009/2015 Medium-intense lemony colour. Toasty, evolving, nutty and lemony nose. Fresh and linear on the palate with some elegance and intensity but no great complexity or depth. Stylish and long. g Me Medium-deep lemon-green colour. Toasty, harmonious and complex nose. Smooth, with vanilla and fudge. Gentle, underlying smoky minerality. Good Sm harmony and integration of smooth mousse. Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut 2009/2015 88p B Bo Bollinger Special Cuvée 56 2009/2015 89p Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Rich, sweet and complex. Cinnamon, apple pie and vanilla nose. Gentle, deliberate oxidation. Weighty and wide smooth velvety palate, with nicely integrated mousse. Balanced and rich. Medium-deep lemony colour. Fragrant and charmingly restrained floral nose. Honey and sweet tropical notes. Mineral complexity with underlying muscle and vinosity. Pure with nice freshness and elegance. All pieces in place. C Ca 89p Canard Duchêne Cuvée Leonie 2009/2013 A Ag 88p Agrapart Terroirs 2009/2013 Pa Pale lemony colour. Delicate, purist green apple and white fruit nose. Intense and pure, with a powerful linear structure. Clean and no tightly-packed. g Me Medium-deep lemony colour. Smooth and round rich toffee, red apple and toasty nose. Nice rounded body, focused fruit and good length. an Attractive purity and intensity. Good ageing capacity. R Ru 89p Ruinart Brut 2009/2013 Me Medium-intense lemony colour. Vegetal lemon and white flower elegant nose. Restrained, intense and dry palate. Youthful still, with a firm, linear no structure and good ageing capacity. 88p H Henriot Brut Souverain 2009/2015 De Deep lemon-gold colour. Harmonious and stylish bright fruit and gentle toast nose. Slim but concentrated, long and crisp. All parts in place, with toa nice ageing potential ahead. L La 89p Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut 2009/2014 P Po 88p Pommery Brut Royal 2009/2013 Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Delicate, soft and elegant nose with melon, gentle citric tones, fine-tuned and tight-packed. me Mi Mid-depth lemon-green colour. Rich, gunflinty and toasty nose. Lemon and green apple. Restrained and very dry on the palate with autolysis an coming through nicely. Stylish, with fine mousse and wonderful fruit purity. P Po Pommery Brut Apanage 2009/2014 88p M 88p Mailly Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs 2009/2014 M Medium-intense lemony colour. Smooth, vanilla and cream, ripe tropical fruitiness. Tight and closed on the palate, but balanced with tro some complexity and elegance. M Medium-deep lemony colour. Soft and creamy toffee nose, butter, brioche and cinnamon. Mid-weight, rich palate with good length bri and fresh spine. Nicely balanced and complex. 88p D De Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2013 M Medium-deep lemon-green colour. Nicely toasty and bready, tropical fruit and apple nose. Toasty finish, medium-bodied on the palate. Long fru and fairly intense. 88p A Ay Ayala Brut Majeur 2009/2014 M Medium-deep lemony colour. Delicate, smooth toffee nose with lemony nuances. Gentle autolytic presence. Tight and very dry palate, linear with nu sweet, pure fruitiness. Nicely integrated mousse and good length. P Pi Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2009/2014 V Vi Vilmart Grand Cellier 2009/2013 88p 88p De Deep lemony colour. Rich and smooth, sweet apple and toasty nose. High degree of breed and evolution in the nose. Powerfully fruity palate Hi with coffee, toast and vanilla. Integrated mousse and a wide, dense mouth-feel. Good length and harmony. Pa Pale lemony colour. Smooth nose with a slight wood impact, deliberate oxidation in the form of oxidising apple. Nice intensity and purity. ox

D Dr 88p Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir 2009/2012 Or Orange-hued medium-deep colour. Overt, rich, ripe red apple nose and a touch of autolytic notes. Muscular, firm and rounded palate. an Dry, medium-long finish. Dr 87p Lanson Black Label Brut 2009/2013 Medium-intense lemon-gold colour. Pure and clean, bright sweet citrus and stone fruit nose. Intense and structured, with a nice acidic focus and length of fruit. Compact and fruity, with good ageing potential. 88p Jo Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut 2009/2013 Me Medium-deep lemony colour. Creamy and toasty nose, ripe fruit, lemon and apple. Compact and focused on the palate. Exploding fruit. Long length. H 87p H. Goutorbe Cuvée Tradition 2009/2012 Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Fruity, red fruit dominated and lactic nose, with a light autolytic influence. Foamy mousse, round and smooth palate. wi Long, spicy and fruity finish. Lots of personality here. 88p Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 Mid-depth lemon-green colour. Smooth, clean, tropical nose. Pear and apple cider, delicate white fruit nose. Nice, crisp acidity and beautiful creamy mousse. Nice, smooth dosage level. Long, pure, compact and charming length. M Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial 2009/2012 87p M Medium-deep lemon colour. Fruit-forward, peach and apple nose, with delicate floral nuances. Nice degree of elegance. Light-bodied, wi with medium fruit intensity. Elegant but not very complex. M 87p Mercier Cuvée du Fondateur Brut 2009/2012 H He 87p Henri Abelé Brut 2009/2011 De Deep lemony colour. Harmonious, sweet white fruit and floral nose, some veg vegetal nuances. Nicely balanced, smooth palate, with medium length. g 87p Jacquart Extra Brut 87p Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Pure 2009/2014 Medium-deep lemon colour. Delicate and pure, slightly autolytic nose, with hints of green apple, vanilla and mineral tones. Highly linear and extremely dry palate. Very high quality fruit behind. Good intensity and length. Nice toasty finish. Bl 87p Blondel Carte d'Or 2009/2012 Pal Pale lemon colour. Toasty, apple crumble and white fruit nose. Floral and lactic complexity. Tight and restrained on the palate. Additional post-disgorgement time will help to round up the wine. Slightly too foamy mousse. Medium length and intensity. 87p Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut 2009/2015 A 87p A. Chauvet Blanc de Blancs Brut 2009/2010 M Medium-deep lemon colour. Soft, citric nose with floral influence. Nice fruit purity and length. Compact and stylish. Ni 57 Medium-deep lemon colour. Restrained and smooth stone fruit and floral nose. Tight palate and dry finish. Nice cleanliness, ample fruit and focus, lacks great complexity and length. 87p Mumm Cordon Rouge 2009/2013 Medium-deep lemon colour. Nice smoky touch. Foamy smooth mousse. Very clean, gentle and easy to touch. Well-made and fruity, with some autolytic complexity. R 86p Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Smoky and minerally straw and lemon blanc de blancs nose. Restrained and smoky, tight on the palate. Coarse bubbles and somewhat angular texture. Mid-length. Lacks autolysis complexity and charm. Post-disgorgement time will bring out the charm in this wine. 87p Mailly Grand Cru Brut Réserve 2009/2013 Bruno Paillard 86p Brut Premiere Cuvée 2009/2017 Pale lemon colour. Fragrant and delicate white fruit and floral nose. Pure and clean nose. Very dry on the palate, feels extra brut in style. Intensely structured and perfectly balanced. Louis Roederer Carte Blanche Sec 2009/2015 87p Medium-deep lemon colour. Soft, open lemon and melon nose, delicate toffee and autolysis complexity. More one-dimensional on the palate. Floral and medium-bodied. Well-integrated mousse and a gently sweet finish. Pale lemon colour. Honeyed, creamy, stone fruit, licorice and floral nose. Tight, mediumbodied dry palate. Lots of structure behind the clean fruit. Nice, linear, crisp citric acidity. 86p Deutz Brut Classic 2009/2012 Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Blanc de Blancs 2009/2014 87p Deep lemon-gold colour. Soft and rounded red berry and tobacco nose. Full, but one-dimensional on the palate. Some concentration on the wide, fat palate. Lacks elegance and backbone. Deep lemon-green colour. Rich and soft, complex nose. Toasted bread, red apple and spices. Nice weight and depth on the palate too. Fresh, balanced acidity and long length with well-integrated mousse. Nice concentration. D 86p De Saint Gall Premier Cru Brut Tradition 2009/2011 Pa Pale lemon colour. Soft and delicate, fragrant and nuanced confectionary and white fruit nose. Vegetal notes and nice clean fruit. The grip is lost on wh the palate, very smooth and appearing slightly spineless. Medium-length and easy to like. 87p Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve Medium-deep lemon colour. Soft, sweet r. Sof Soft, apple pie nose, with lovely autolytic richness. c ri ness richness. Mid-weight palate, with a blende , blended, ded, harmonious nature and good fruit purity. od fruit pu y u purity. Pear and lemon. Mid-length palate, with h e, with ith well-integrated bubbles. 2009/2013 2009/ 9/2013 P 86p Philipponnat Brut Royale Réserve 2009/2013 M Medium-deep lemon-gold colour. Smooth, ripe, fruity, easygoing nose. Delicate smokiness and floral notes. Medium-intense fruity palate. no Balanced, but not very complex or fine. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e Deep golden colour. Rich and round, toasty nose with nice nutty and toasty vanilla aromatics. Rich and round, slightly oxidised taste. Well integrated, gentle mousse and vinosity. 2009/2013 De Deep lemon colour. Overt and soft, toffee, confectionary and vanilla nose. Nice beginnings of autolytic complexity. Long, smooth and easy to like. Not Ni very complex or refined, though.

P Pi 86p Pierre Gimonnet Brut 2009/2011 M Medium-deep lemon colour. Very floral and fragrant nose, clean and fresh. Lean and fruity, nice compact fruitiness. Long and fresh. an 85p Richard Fliniaux Carte Perle Cuvée Speciale 2009/2011 Pale peach-hued lemon colour. Nice touch of autolytic complexity on the nose, red fruit and nutty hints. Fruit-forward and clean on the palate. Lots of personality. p P Ph 86p Philipponnat Non Dosé Royale Réserve 2009/2012 M Medium-deep lemon-golden colour. Smooth fruit-forward red berry nose, with apple pie and spicy nuances. Dry medium-bodied palate that lacks wi the overt fruit of the nose. Coarse sized mousse, palate lacking charm. Post-disgorgement time will round the fruit and bring out the charm. Good ageing capacity. P Pa 85p Pannier Brut Selection 2009/2011 H 86p Heidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top 2009/2013 D Deep lemon-yellow colour, energetic foamy mousse. Smooth cream and va vanilla nose, with ripe, clean fruitiness and a touch of elegance. Mouth-filling wine, with good intensity. Some vegetal notes take away from the wines elegance. Medium length and satisfactorily well-integrated bubbles. M Medium-deep lemon colour. Soft apple and lemon nose. Pure and fruity but not very complex or evolved. Mid-weight palate, with slightly fru coarse bubbles. Short length and not as nicely fruity as the nose was. M Mercier Demi-Sec 2009/2011 85p Mu 86p Mumm Cordon Rouge Demi-Sec 2009/2012 Pa Pale greenish-lemon colour. Sweet and delicate white fruit and floral nose. Medium-sweet taste, with plenty of sweet tropical fruit. Medium length and M good fruit purity for a demi-sec. g Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Sweet caramel nose, with some toasty influence. Medium-dry, smooth balance and cleanliness. Medium-long with smooth effervescence. Well-made and balanced. A 85p Alfred Gratien Brut 2009/2013 86p Moët & Chandon Nectar Impérial 2009/2011 Medium-deep peach-hued lemon colour. Fragrant and sweetly spiced oxidising apple nose. Medium-sweet palate. Fruity and gentle, rounded. Some personality and a nice balance. Pa Pale greenish-yellow colour. Delicate, smoky, minerally nose. Flowers and stone fruits, no autolysis impact. Quite foamy on the palate. Clean, with sto bright fruit, but lacks layers and the complexity of fine champagne. J Ja Jacquart Brut Mosaïque 2009/2012 85p Le Lemony, youthful colour with lively bubbles. Toasty and nutty autolytic nose, with ripe apple, straw and dust notes. Medium-intense vegetal and no floral palate. Good freshness and well-integrated mousse. Satisfying on the whole, medium length and fruit intensity. 58 86p Be Besserat de Bellefon Cu Cuvée des Moines Brut 2009/2011 Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Open and creamy nose with soft apple, pear and vanilla aromas. Not perfectly clean. Apricot and lemon on the pea palate. Medium fruit intensity and length. Not a mainstream champagne, not to every taste. Foamy mousse and mid-length drying finish. 85p Fr Frank Bonville Grand Cru Brut Se Se Selection Blanc de Blancs 2009/2012 M Medium-deep straw-yellow colour. Restrained and gentle melon, pear, vegetal and floral nose. Tight, light-weight palate, with some pe dusty aromatics. Linear, with medium body weight. D 85p Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Brut M Mercier Brut 2009/2011 2009/2010 86p M Medium-deep lemon colour. Toasty and fragrant nose. Nice brioche and tropical notes. Slightly dusty on the hollow palate. Medium-length. an Easy to drink. M Medium-deep peach-hued lemon colour. Overt, oxidising apple nose, with at touch of oak impact. Foamy palate and a wide and weighty mouth-feel. Very vinous but not hugely complex or elegant. Fruity and clean though. C Comte Audoin de Dampierre Demi-Sec 2009/2010 86p J Ja Jacquart Demi-Sec 2009/2011 85p M Medium-deep lemon colour. Smooth and ripe, nicely toasty, gunpowdery nose. Vegetal notes. Medium-dry taste with nice fruit purity, po but lacked of spine or complexity. M Medium-deep lemon colour. Restrained, gentle apple and confectionary no nose. Foamy mousse, intense licorice and ripe fruit palate. Distinct personality, with medium length. Nice level of sugar, balanced and not overly sweet for the structure. J Ja 85p Jacquesson Brut Cuvée No 733 2009/2013 C 85p Charles de Villenfin Brut 2009/2010 Me Medium-deep colour with a peachy hue. Slightly volatile tobacco and red apple nose, with spicy old oak and dusty nuances. Forward and fruity, with app dry palate. Angular and one-dimensional for now, post-disgorgement time required for full charm. M Medium-deep lemon-gold colour. Roasted coffee and smooth fudge nose. Nice autolytic complexity. The palate is less intense and nuanced compared Ni to the promising nose. Medium length and good evolution in the glass. Nice gun flint minerality. Al Alain Thiénot Brut 2009/2013 85p Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Open, creamy, lactic white fruit and vanilla nose. Very dry and a therefore a bit harsh on the palate. Long van and linear though. Required post-disgorgement time to blossom. C Camille Bonville Brut S Se Selection Blanc de Blancs 2009/2011 85p Pa Pale lemon-green colour. Fruity and fresh, pear and lime nose. Linear and tig tight palate. Mid-length and very dry. Not very complex and lacks autolytic complexity. 85p B Bo Bonnaire Brut Tradition 2009/2011 Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Bruised apple and vanilla nose, nuanced with ripe fruits. Fruity and fairly clean. Fresh, but not very refined or structured. 85p Bonnaire Brut Variance Boisé 2009/2012 Deep lemon colour. Pronounced, evolving wet wool, nut and ripe apple, roasted nose. Medium-bodied, wide and round, easy palate which lacks focus, finesse and spine.

85p A. Robert Brut 2009/2010 C 84p Comte de Dampierre Grande Cuvée Brut 2009/2011 M Medium-deep lemon colour. Floral and dusty, tobacco and apple nose. Quite hollow mouth-feel, lacking intensity and elegance. Q Deep lemon-gold colour. Complex and vinous, oxidising bruised apple and cinnamon nose. Wide and rounded, with enough freshness. Lacks finesse and fruit intensity. C 84p Charles Mignon Brut Premier Cru 2009/2010 85p A. Chauvet Brut 2009/2010 Medium-deep lemon colour. Overt, smooth red fruit and fudge nose, with some dusty notes. Powerful on the palate, with a fairly foamy mousse. Medium length with a nice fruity finish. D Deep lemon-yellow colour. Smooth, restrained nose of ripe apple, lemon and a gentle toasty edge. Some dusty notes that are accentuated on the an palate. Medium-intense palate, with good freshness but slightly coarse mousse. Fruity and fresh but some earthy rusticity takes away from its elegance. 84p Charles Lafitte Cuvée Speciale 2009/2011 Be Besserat de Bellefon C 84p Cuvée des Moines Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010 Pal Pale lemon-green colour. Smoky and minerally straw and lemon nose. Herbaceous and slightly dusty. Lean, with a very dry mid-length taste. He Refreshing and simple. Lacks autolysis, champagne complexity and charm. Medium-deep lemon colour. Citric and floral nose, with gentle brioche layers. Appears closed on the palate, with the dosage not in full harmony with the body. Medium-bodied, fresh and lively, a slightly coarse mousse. 84p A. Robert Cuvée Le Sablon Brut 2009/2010 Pale lemon green colour. Open white and green fruit, elegant nose, with nice yeasty complexity. Slightly hollow, restrained and short. André Clouet Brut 2009/2012 David Léclapart L´Apôtre a 84p Trépail Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Medium-deep lemon colour. Toasty and nutty, evolving citric fruit aroma. Yeasty notes. Very toasty, even roasted on the palate, pungent, fino sherry-like yeasty notes. Wide, fat palate, with good length, but lacks in finesse and intensity. C 83p Collard-Picard Cuvée Selection Brut 2009/2011 2009/2010 M Medium-deep orange-hued lemon colour. Fruity, red fruit dominant, straightforward nose, with some volatility. Not much finesse and a gentle str touch of autolytic complexity. Some fresh, yeasty impact. Bright fruity palate that is not very long but in accordance with the nose. Orange peel aromatics and a citric feel of acidity. Quite atypical as a style but has a lot of personality. Divides opinions. 59 J Jo 83p José Michel Pinot Meunier 2009/2010 84p Duval Leroy Brut 2009/2011 Mid-depth lemon colour. Deliberately oxidising red apple, spicy and dusty nose. Rich, with spicy, wood-like impact on the palate too. Wide and vinous. Long. M Medium-deep yellow colour. Slightly rustic nose of straw, marzipan, doughnuts and confectionary. Some aggression in the mousse. Tart acidity do and a hollow feel to the seemingly rich fruit. Disappointingly short finish. 84p Richard Fliniaux Blanc de Blancs 2009/2010 N Nicolas Feuillatte B 83p Brut Réserve Particulière 2009/2010 Pale lemon colour. Powerful, smoky and minerality that is lacking autolytic richness. Vegetal and lean palate, with medium bodyweight. Austere, lacking champagne charm. Pa Pale lemon-yellow colour. Smooth, with hazelnuts and ripe apples. Tropical and smooth, with pineapple and dusty notes. Hollow palate Tr and foamy mousse. Lacks refinement. 84p Maxime Blin Carte Blanche Brut 2009/2010 Deep golden colour. Smooth, rounded and rustic vanilla, wax, flower and red apple nose. Less interesting on the palate. Slightly empty and coarse. Mid-length minerally finish. Lacks intensity and charm. P Pierre Peters G 82p Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2009/2011 M Medium-deep lemon colour. Toasty and slightly vegetal nose, with oxidative, spicy aromatics. Medium-bodied and dry, with some austerity. ox Lacks charm and intensity. Marguet Pére & Fils 84p Grand Cru Brut Reserve 2009/2010 N 82p Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem´ 2009/2010 Pale lemon colour. Lactic nose, with yoghurt and honey. Lactic on the palate but overly so. Medium-bodied and fresh, though. D Deep lemon-gold bright colour. Rich and fat, creamy, toast, coffee and confectionary nose, with spice and vanilla influences. Evolved, with sweet co fruitiness on the palate. Long, persistent coffee and fudge palate. 84p Dosnon & Lepage Recolte Noir 2009/2010 Pale straw-yellow colou Soft, delicate, floral chardonnay yellow colour. nose. Creamy and refined but not very complex. d Solid basic quality. id qual lity. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e 84p Da David Léclapart L´Àrtiste Premier C 84p Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009/2010 Deep peach-hued lemon colour. Fruit-forward with red berries, wax and honey. High acidity on the palate, wide but not very concentrated. Open but quite singular, lacking great complexity. Me Medium-deep lemon colour. Lactic, creamy nose, with clean fruitiness an and oxidising apple. Pungent, highly dry aftertaste, fino sherry-like yeasty effect. Long and linear.

no. 1 Chartogne-Taillet Rosé 60 Really good small grower champagnes with personality and character do not come in volumes. It is easy to overlook some of the lesser-known champagnes, especially if they happened to be located outside the most famous regions. Therefore, Chartogne-Taillet in Massif-Saint-Thierry's Merfy is easy to miss. But luckily, blind tasting is blind to the fame and origin of the producer. Elisabeth and Philippe Chartogne, as well as their son Alexande, who is now taking over, are perfectionists when it comes to quality, but remain very reasonable when it comes to pricing. The family has been growing wine in Merfy, just outside Reims, since the 16th century. Rosé champagne does not appeal to everyone but with this one we were all hooked. It is simply wonderful. But we are not the only ones rating this among the very best of its kind in the world. In a blind tasting of 70 rosé champagnes, by the English WINE Magazine in May 1999, this was the biggest surprise. It landed in a shared second place with 90 points, together with 1988 Dom Pérignon Rosé and was only narrowly beaten by the 1988 Grand Siècle Alexandra Rosé from Laurent Perrier. The basic wine for the present disgorgement contains 40 per cent Pinot Noir, 10 per cent Pinot Meunier and 50 per cent Chardonnay, before the addition of 15 per cent red wine from Pinot Noir. The current cuvée is mainly from the 2006 vintage, with some reserve wine from 2004 and 2002. It has spent just over two years on the lees, which is shorter than their other champagnes. This is to preserve the freshness and fruit characteristics of rosé champagne. The annual production is about 4,000 bottles. At retail, this wine is one of the greatest bargains available. J-EP 90p C Chartogne-Taillet Rosé 2009/2013 M Medium-deep orange-hued colour. Smooth, evolving, spicy and leathery nose, with tobacco and toast nuances. Tightly packed, smooth and silky. no Charming texture and a lot of personality.

no. 2 Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé 61 B Bi 90p Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé 2009/2012 Pal Pale peach hued colour. Very fine and elegant nose. Restrained character with some tobacco, toast and gentle volatile notes beneath the red fruits. wi More powerful on the palate with good depth of flavour. Nice, juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Gunflinty and minerally mouth-feel. Fi n e C h a m pa g n e In the years preceding the current rosé boom, it was essentially two houses ­ Laurent-Perrier and Billecart-Salmon ­ that were famous for their rosés. I was delighted they both did so well in our blind tasting, despite the opulent competition that has arisen in the past five years or so. Perhaps it has been due to the exponential growth Billecart-Salmon has managed to achieve, that I have sometimes been disappointed with their NV rosé quality, whereas Elisabeth Salmon Rosé has stayed consistently magnificent. Therefore, I was happy to see Brut Rosé back on top again. An unusually high 20 per cent share of Billecart-Salmon's production is rosé and they certainly know how to make it. The Brut Rosé NV is made of 40 per cent Pinot Noir, 20 per cent Pinot Meunier and 40 per cent Chardonnay. It is a rosé made by blending red Pinot Noir wine to the base cuvée. The vinous, yet elegant style with a distinct personality is achieved by the double cold settling of the must the house has practised since the 1950s. The first fermentation is carried out at unusually low temperatures for champagne, between 13­14 ºC, to preserve the maximum fruit and terroir characteristics. There is not a set regime for malolactic fermentation, instead it is carried out when considered beneficial. The wine spends 29 months on the lees. The result is a charming, delicately pink champagne that has much more vinosity than the colour would let you assume. It has the hallmark BillecartSalmon fruit purity, focus and velvety mouth-feel, with small-sized, elegant bubbles. EA

no. 3 Boizel Rosé R é h p Rosé champagnes come in many different styles and it is a question of personal preference which style one prefers. I, for one, am charmed by rosés that are foremost "champagne-like", where the autolytic influence is noticeable and the fresh red fruit aromatics only support, never dominate. The Boizel Rosé was an epitome of that style, hence its great performance. Boizel is best known as a good value producer and it was therefore a wonderful "surprise" to find it in the top 3 of our tasting. The result implies that this traditional house is flourishing as a part of the Boizel Chanoine Champagne (BCC) group. The house is still run by the Boizel family, who are shareholders in the group. The house owns no vineyards and is thus dependent on purchased fruit. The rosé is made by blending 8 per cent red Pinot Noir wine into the base cuvée. The final blend is dominated by 50 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Pinot Meunier, with the remainder being Chardonnay. The success of their rosé NV makes me want to reassess the whole house. Next time I´m in Champagne, I will definitely pay a visit to Boizel, on Epernay's Avenue de Champagne. J-EP B 89p Boizel Brut Rosé 62 2009/2013 Pa Pale peach colour. Stylish, slightly autolytic nose, where the fresh red fruits are in the back. Nice touch of spice and dried fruit. Elegant and restrained ar on the palate, too. Long, energetic and elegant. L 89p Laurent-Perrier Rosé Cuvée Brut 2009/2013 M Medium-deep onion skin colour. Delicately herbaceous nose with red fruit and floral notes. Fine mousse gives a silky feel to the palate. Bright fru cherry and confectionary flavour on the persistently elegant palate. Fine and sophisticated, with a very dry finish. Very much Burgundy Pinot Noir in style. P 89p Pommery Apanage Rosé 2009/2013 Ve Very pale onion-skin colour. Delicate peach and flower nose. Silky mouth-feel, stylish and restrained. Si H 89p Henriot Rosé 2009/2013 C Clear peachy colour. Fruity, cherry and spice nose. Closed on the palate but post-disgorgement time will help. Tobacco and spices. Medium length and po nice, fresh mouth-feel. Slightly disturbing iron finish alongside the chalky mineral tastes. Mu 89p Mumm Rosé 2009/2011 Me Medium-deep peach colour. Sweet and round red fruit nose. Nice fruit attack, tart and fresh palate. Nice vinosity and sweet raspberry fruit. atta Easy to drink with some class. Ru 88p Ruinart Brut Rosé 2009/2011 Me Medium-deep salmon-red colour. Nicely autolytic, yet bright fruity nose of r cherries, spices and figs. Rich, vinous mouth-feel, fruity and long. ripe Gastronomic wine with weight and spine.

88p B Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut Rosé 2009/2014 Ve Very pale onion skin colour. Weak stone fruit and floral nose. Restrained and closed, yet compact on the palate too. Elegant, with great fruit purity. an Opens up nicely in the glass. Should develop wonderfully with time. D Du 86p Duval Leroy Brut Rosé 2009/2011 Pal Pale salmon colour. Soapy, floral and fresh berry nose. Restrained and lean on the palate. Very dry, but clean and fresh. A bit ethereal, even lea chemical. 88p P Philipponnat Réserve Rosé Brut 2009/2012 M Medium-deep salmon colour. Lactic toffee and confectionary nose. Medium length and slightly coarse mousse. Fails to wholly impress, M as it lacks depth and intensity. Clean and reserved. C Ch 85p Charles Lafitte Rosé Brut 2009/2012 Ver Very pale onion-skin colour. Delicate, sophisticated nose, with fine-tuned nuances and a touch of autolytic presence. Dry, with a nice mouthnu watering acidity. Good structure and vinosity. Seductive balance of power and charm. A 88p Alfred Gratien Rosé 2009/2012 C Charles Mignon Comte de Marne Rosé 2009/2011 Fi n e C h a m pa g n e 63 Pa Pale salmon-pink colour. Powerful and rich, smoky nose. Red berries and smoke. Nice complexity. Re 84p 2009/2011 C 88p Collard-Picard Rosé Brut De Deep orange-hued colour. Powerful and round, with red fruit and spices. Restrained, compared to the overt nose. One-dimensional and Re a bit coarse. Muscular Pinot-palate. Pa Pale salmon-pink colour. Fragrant red fruit, confectionary, cherry and strawberry nose. Delicious, mouth-watering acidity and a light-weight, str energetic palate. Long and stylish. 84p M Mercier Demi-Sec Rosé 2009/2010 87p Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Rosé Pa Pale salmon-pink colour. Delicate, ethereal, red fruit floral nose. Nice un underlying strength, Pinot fruit coming from the back. Vanilla and spiciness. Very sweet on the palate. Clean and soft, but not very complex. p 2009/2013 Medium-deep cherry-red colour. Pronounced cherry and spice. Elegant, delicate and charming. Nice fruit, long and refreshing, with firm muscle and spine. Nicely gastronomic in style and should evolve well with bottle maturation. 84p P Pe Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé 2009/2013 Pa Pale orange-hued colour. Chalky, earthy nose, with tart, fresh berries. Smoky, drying finish. Slightly coarse mousse. Sm P Pa 84p Pannier Rosé Velour 2009/2012 2009/2012 J Jo Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé 87p De Deep cherry-pink colour. Dark fruit, such as cassis, on the nose, no autolytic influence. Modest and hollow on the palate with residual sweetness and some dusty notes in the finish. Pa Pa Pale onion-skin colour. Smooth and rich red fruit nose, with leather. Nice, sweet cherry fruit. Fruity palate, with a nice grip. Medium-length. Ni Ni J Ja Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Rosé 2009/2010 83p M Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial 2009/2011 87p Pa Pale salmon colour. Foamy and short on the palate. Disappointingly hollow. Not much beyond the primary fruit. ho M Medium-deep cherry-red colour. Rich, spicy nuanced red fruit and dried f fru fruit nose, with some autolytic complexity. Wide and muscular on the palate too, lacking some intensity but is balanced, clean and easy to approach. M Mercier Brut Rosé 2009/2010 83p De Deep bright cherry-red colour. Pungent and smoky primary nose. Straightforward, lacking layers and finesse. Str 87p J. J.J. Richard & Fils Ay C Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru 2009/2010 P Pa Pale salmon colour. Nice gently autolytic nose, with creaminess and red fruit. Pronounced on the palate, wide and structured. Not very complex fr fru or elegant though. A 82p André Clouet Brut Rosé 2009/2012 Pa Pale salmon colour. Sweet, slightly unfresh carbonic and rubbery nose. Pungent on the palate. Unrefined but fruity, with good width. Pu 86p B Bollinger Rosé Brut 2009/2013 N 82p Nicolas Feuillatte Rosé Brut 2009/2010 D De Delicate, bright red fruit, spicy and leathery. Nicely powerful and wide palate. Firm, linear and long. Has a good degree of complexity and a fine pa pa balance. M Medium-deep orange-hued colour. Pungent, smoky, tobacco and cherry liquor nose. Flat and spineless on the palate. Medium-long, ch with a mouth-drying finish. D 86p Deutz Rosé 2009/2012 Pa Pale onion-skin salmon-red colour. Delicate, evolving nose where the fruit is not very prominent. Aged and classic. Harmonious and balanced. A solid i NV rosé that has a nice balance of fruit and tertiary components. 81p Comte Audoin de Dampierre Brut Rosé 2009/2010 Medium-deep peachy colour. Pungent yeasty nose, with smoky, toffee minerality. Linear, but a bit tart on the palate. Lacking charm and intensity.

Travelling with Non-Vintage Champagne Andreas Larsson 66 While nerds like myself spend hard-earned money on vintages, rarities and the odd bottle of prestige cuvée, the standard bottlings are by far the most important for the champagne houses. I think it is quite rare to sit down with your wine geek friends and really analyse the heart, soul, complexity and terroir of a standard cuvée. Not to be sarcastic, but are they even displaying these attributes despite them being darn good drinks? As I travel extensively and spend a good amount of time in the air, it gives me plenty of opportunities to drink non-vintage champagne. Not being spoilt enough to travel in first class where Krug and Dom Pérignon are poured in copious quantities, I, however, do get to frequently spend time in the business class cabin and lounges. When you are on the road and expect a no-frills experience, this is exactly when a standard cuvée comes into its own. When being forced to spend 14 hours in an aeroplane, a glass of Deutz Brut Classic tastes marvellous. I have had it in a plane several times over the last few months and I consider it to be a very elegant and stylish NV champagne, with all the parts in the right place, lusciously creamy and refreshing throughout the meal. The same goes for Philipponnat Royal Reserve, which gave me hope and comfort on a long flight back from Asia, when I was both exhausted and jetlagged at the same time. It showed a nice structure, good fruit and it gave a nice impression of maturity. The Royal Reserve was easy to enjoy both before, after and especially with, the beef and noodles à la Chinoise. As we were approaching Europe and the flight came to an end, I started to feel better and I give full credit to the champagne. Then there are the plethora of Heidsiecks that one frequently encounters ­ the Piper is nice and reliable, and easy to like. The Monopole is not bad at all and it really enhanced my recent ParisStockholm trip. But I must confess that the one I prefer is the Charles. This particular champagne always manages to shine. I have been surprised on numerous occasions by how well it fares in blind tastings. When I see it onboard, I know that I am in good hands. Even if the worst and most unexpected turbulence sets in, I have the good old Champagne Charlie. What about Bollinger then? Well, I suppose both the producer and a lot of consumers alike put this one step above the other standard cuvées. To me, this is the place it deserves. After all, it has over the years been one of the leading and most reliable champagnes. It works perfectly in the aeroplane

too, as I found out when I was treated to it onboard. It went deliciously, from the nuts to the canapés, to the meal and the three movies. I dare to say that I managed to imbibe a few glasses over the journey... This is really a complex champagne of the highest rank ­ broad, bold and assertive, with as much elegance as power. Apart from flying, there have been a few recent occasions where I was offered some standard cuvées and a true classic is the stylish Pol Roger, which is poured as the house champagne at the beautiful Grand Hotel in Stockholm. Together with a shrimp sandwich on a sunny, wintery day, it was perfect ­ toasted, savoury and delicious and really easy to have a few glasses more. I also spend a lot of time in Bordeaux and 90 per cent of what I drink there is, well, red Bordeaux. After a week of intensive tasting and a diet consisting of côte de boeuf, duck, lamb and côte de boeuf again, it was a relief to enjoy a risotto with prawns and a bottle of Roederer Brut Premier at Bistro Les 5 the other day. The Roederer has been a true favourite of mine for years ­ and it still is ­ creamy and vibrant, with a nice freshness and a good dose of complexity. Finally, I have been stocking some serious quantities of Laurent-Perrier half bottles in the fridge back home, simply because I found these handy two packs convenient at the airport shop. Also, they keep my girlfriend away from the most precious bottles while I am travelling... Last time, as I popped one open to accompany my sushi, I realised that this it is a most pleasant champagne, with a quite profound structure, nice autumn fruit, well balanced dosage and a long zesty finish; another one of those brands that I have just missed. While I go on my champagne-induced habit of travelling, I dream that the airlines will one day start investing in proper champagne glasses ­ or perhaps I should start packing glasses to go. 67 Fi n e L a r s s o n

68

T h e B l e n d i n g Fi n e S c i e n c e 69 Tex t : Martin Williams MW Every January, as the Christmas and New Year festivities draw to a close, the thoughts of the Champenois turn to creating the new season's cuvées. The all-important task of blending is about to commence. Like a child contemplating a large and complex jigsaw puzzle received as a gift the week before, each winemaker takes stock of the myriad pieces that ultimately, painstakingly, must be combined to create the perfect image of champagne. There is, however, one major difference: unlike the child who can refer to the picture on the box for inspiration, the winemaker is faced with a puzzle that has only a vague solution when the blending game begins.

Champagne is a multifaceted gem. It can be many things to many people ­ drink of celebration, daily tipple, serious gastronomic wine ­ but above all, it carries an air of quality and the anticipation of pleasure. One particular feature that may elude the casual drinker is that champagne is one of the most complex of wines, its complexity underlying its unique quality and giving pleasure to its countless fans worldwide. Krug's Grande Cuvée, Dom Pérignon, Grande Siècle, Cristal, Salon... all exhibit transcendant levels of quality that make them some of the greatest of drinking experiences. The superlative quality of each of these fabulous wines is based on fundamental attributes, not least of which is complexity. Complexity is not automatically a natural attribute of champagne: while intensity, length and depth are largely qualities derived from the grapes, complexity must be carefully created and nurtured ­ it is very d much a product of deliberate human intervention berate via the winemaking process. The crafting of a top ocess. champagne is an exacting task, in which the weaving g together of many different parts results in an fferent altogether greater whole. Of paramount importance is the blending process, a skill refined over centuries in the region and proudly carried on by a select udly group of craftsmen, the master winemakers of he Champagne. the highest level remains a uniquely creative endeavour. The blender practises what could be described as a `hidden art', as a truly skilful blend possesses a seamlessness that hides its complexity. Furthermore, the wine that eventually emerges from the blending process may bear only a passing resemblance to each of its component parts. The practicalities of champagne blending have evolved over centuries, and today represent a formidable body of savoir-faire that only a few gifted and dedicated winemakers possess. The blender must start with an understanding of the base wines available. Equally important is a sensory image of the final product. This image must correspond to an established house style and its place in the market. Another objective is consistency in a region where seasonal variations from one vintage to Science or art? The art of blending has been described as the beauty and strength of champagne. It is undoubtedly a key gne. factor in its enduring appeal and its status as a wine peal `classic'. While many aspects of contemporary champagne production involve the methodical n application of science and technology, blending at nd 70 "The art of blending has been described as the beauty and strength of champagne"

71 the next can be extreme. Hence, the actual Hence, e en composition of a typical blend from one of the larger houses is highly unlikely to remain identical from year to year, as d fferent components are bl d d in diff blended different proportions to achieve consistency. Intimate knowledge of the base wines available often extends back to familiarity of the vineyards from which the grapes are sourced. A legendary master blender, the late Daniel Thibaut of Charles Heidsieck, had great affection for the little-known chalky outcrop of Montgueux. Describing it poetically as the `Montrachet of Champagne', Thibaut had a deep understanding of the valuable contribution that the finely structured, yet intensely flavoured, Chardonnay grapes of Montgueux could make to his superbly complex blends. "The greatest gift required of a great champagne blender is patience" must vinify an appropriate number and volume of base wines of the style and quality required to produce the company's range. Several months later, these new wines are blended skilfully to satisfy the desired style, volume and cost objectives, with as few `orphan' batches as possible left unused at the end of the process. Aside from the logistics of harvest and vinification, the challenges facing the blender relate mostly to tasting ability. Having a sensitive and experienced palate is the primary prerequisite of a gifted blender. In great family-owned houses such as Pol Roger, the responsibility for blending has passed within the family from generation to generation for over a century, thus ensuring long-term consistency of house style. In other houses, winemakers are trained in the art of blending through a form of apprenticeship, as proven palates within the h l h h company gradually pass their insights on to those who show promise. The emphasis placed by the established houses on carefully training their blenders is remarkable. Roederer's cellarmaster, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, joined the company in 1989 and worked as an assistant cellarmaster for 10 years before promotion to his current position. Such a lengthy apprenticeship is put into perspective by the timescales and investment involved in producing great champagnes: the first vintage of Cristal for which Lecaillon was given sole blending responsibility was the 1999, finally released in 2005. Lecaillon might well attest that the greatest gift required of a great champagne blender is patience. Putting together the pieces Preparation for blending starts during vintage. From the grapes arriving at the winery door during that frantic two-week harvest period, the winemaker Fi n e S c i e n c e

Projecting the future Given the lead times involved in the production of all champagne, and especially prestige cuvées, the blender must be able to project forward from the sensory profile of the new assemblage, to the impression at the eventual moment of consumption ­ not a trivial exercise. The number of individual base wines produced and purchased in by the larger négociants-manipulants, representing the three major varieties, over 300 communes, various winemaking treatments and sometimes both vins de cuvée and vins de taille, may be in the hundreds; Roederer routinely start the blending period with up to 450 individual wines. Despite various steps taken to simplify the task of blending, such as pre-blending juices from a single commune before fermentation, the winemaker is still faced with a daunting number of pieces to fit together into the complex jigsaw puzzle that is great champagne. Typically, the base wines themselves are light and tart, low in alcohol and high in acidity. Aromas and flavours are subtle, and most of the palate weight will be built in later through maturation and dosage. Apart from dealing with the physical challenge of tasting dozens of high acid wines, the winemaker must be able to abstract the characteristics of the future champagne from a series of trial blends. The task is made more challenging by lack of carbonation, sweetness and lees complexity. Paradoxically, blending achieves complexity through the assemblage of a number of wines that are intrinsically quite simple in character. The essential challenge is to construct a wine that is effectively an outline of its future self: just as an outline is filled in to create a picture, so the combined processes of tirage, disgorgement, dosage and finally a period of maturation prior to consumption, will transform the tirage blend into a far more palatable product. Horizontal or vertical? ertical? Amazingly, no matter what the tter anticipated quality and style of the finished product, the lack of obviously attractive characters in the component base wines is a common feature of assembled ommon champagnes prior to tirage. To produce those base o wines, the blender essentially has two main options: to blend only base wines within a single harvest year (usually to create a vintage cuvée), or to blend across vintages and thereby enjoy many of the recognised benefits of the non-vintage approach. 72 "The essential challenge is to construct a wine that is effectively an outline of its future self " Assembling batches vinified in a single production year is known as `horizontal' blending. The blending components may be based on different grape varieties, diverse locations or various techniques, from oak maturation to malolactic fermentation. Krug, Gratien, Bollinger and Jacquesson are known for their use of oak vessels of various sizes, some for fermentation and others for maturation. The use of malolactic fermentation is by far the majority approach in the region, though Krug, Gratien and Roederer are notable exceptions. Nowadays, blend components may even extend to vins de taille, which in former times were relegated to lesser blends. Ruinart's new Cellar Master Frederic Panaïotis, for example, says that technical advances have caused the taille to be better than ever before, and he now uses a small proportion to contribute structure and complexity to their fascinating range of cuvées. The alternative, `vertical' blending is the construction of a base wine from components vinified in two or more vintages. Blending across vintages has evolved as a way of evening out variations in quantity and quality of wine produced, and sold, from one year to the next. Its importance for consistency underlies an important law of the Appellation Contrôlée and reflects the central role of NV in the champagne trade: a minimum of 15% of the grapes harvested in any given vintage year must be utilised to produce non-vintage cuvées. Further underlining their dominance of the market, NV cuvées in practice are, almost exclusively, blended predominantly from base wines of the preceding season, with smaller percentages of reserve wines from up to a dozen earlier vintages. Krug is a widely cited example of the contribution of vertical blending to its luxury NV product, Grande Cuvée, which normally includes between a third and a half its final volume of reserve wines derived from six to ten vintages, spanning up to fifteen years. Vintage blending is the more useful approach for Champagne's small growerwinemakers, whose horizontal blending options are limited by their access to grapes grown only on their own holdings. Whatever the blender's stylistic and quality objectives might be, and whatever the means of the grower or Maison, blending is a demanding and complex exercise. In many ways, life would be much easier if champagne was simply a matter of bottling the previous year's production, or that of the year before. It is perhaps pertinent that Krug considers its single-vintage, single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil to be the easiest wine to make ­ it virtually makes itself. Next in order of difficulty comes the Vintage. But Grande Cuvée is the number one product for which the wines are chosen first. And it's obviously the most difficult to make ­ in almost all respects the epitome of the blender's art.

73 Fi n e S c i e n c e DE VISU-REIMS

Correcting the MISTAKE with 74 Bruno Paillard Text: Essi Avellan MW / Photos : Pekka Nuikki "No champagne ages", I was recently told by a reputable champagne house's director. "Nonvintages are ready to drink when brought on to the market", is a much repeated marketing slogan of many producers. This is all wrong, I am afraid. Champagne is one of the longest-lived wines in the world that requires and benefits from ageing as much as any great wine. One thing noticed and appreciated by connoisseurs and champagne lovers is the significance of postdisgorgement ageing. However, champagne houses resist putting disgorgement dates on the bottles in fear of them appearing as `best before dates'. There has been one man, who has been fighting almost alone for this change since the early 1980s. It is therefore appropriate to call Bruno Paillard the `Don Quijote of serious wine drinkers'. Times have changed but Paillard is still today the man who possesses the keys to correcting the "biggest mistake of champagne".

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76 "It has been over 20 years and I am still almost alone with this. I don't understand why", Bruno Paillard begins as we sit down by the large table in his office. We are about to start a vertical tasting of different disgorgements of Brut Première Cuvée, his nonvintage, or multi-vintage as he prefers it to be called. It was in 1985, the very early days of his champagne house, that he decided to start marking the disgorgement times on all bottles. "It was actually a lunch and couple of other discussions with several British wine journalists, such as Hugh Johnson, Serena Sutcliffe and Jancis Robinson, that gave me the initiative. I quickly realised they were right ­ the re-corking date is essential." But let's go back a little. One of the corner stones of the success of non-vintages has been their easy accessibility. The consumer need not know about vintages and the assumption is that every bottle they buy is similar. But is it really? The original cuveés might have been much alike, but bottle age plays a significant role in what style the consumer sees it. I witnessed this a few weeks ago when I tasted three very different bottles of PerrierJouët Grand Brut. The first was at Hostellerie La Briquetterie outside Epernay. We had a rich, evolved and sweet fruity wine in the glass. The next morning, visiting Perrier-Jouët, the wine we encountered was different: tighter, more restrained, with primary fruit and floral nuances apparent. The bottles were like night and day. Something in between them was brought in front of me the following week in London. We knew the bottle was acquired at least 12 months before and its taste profile was in between the two first bottles. Some evolution was apparent in the form of toasty autolytic influence and rounded fruit expression. Many wine drinkers would think bottle variation is the explanation, but that is a faulty assumption. Bruno Paillard explains: "After the process of disgorgement, champagne goes through an evolution in five or six, more or less, complementary phases, leading to a gain in complexity. The wine is first dominated by fruit,

77 then by flowers, spices, toasted aromas and finally candied fruit and roasted notes." The Technical Side But to really understand what is happening we must get technical for a little while. When champagne is put to the cellar for the second fermentation, yeast and sugar are added to it to initiate the process. Depending on the cellar temperature, the fermentation in bottle lasts around three months, during which time the champagne has gained its effervescence. When all sugar the has been converted into alcohol, the yeast cells start dying. The cell tissues are destroyed, adding aromatic precursors such as acacia or toast scents to the wine, simultaneously lending fatness and roundness to the champagne. The yeast lees absorb oxygen and champagne ages in a reductive atmosphere, keeping the colour pale and aromatics fresh. Even though the entire process of autolysis is not fully understood, most cellar masters believe the autolysis really starts some 12 months after the death of the yeast cells. Therefore, champagne's minimum cellaring time of 15 months is short for gaining the full benefits of autolysis. The better the wine, the longer it benefits from bottle ageing and it can go on gaining complexity for several decades. When the cellar master thinks the wine has stayed long enough on the lees, he moves to disgorge the bottle to remove the yeast sediment and to add a possible sweetening dosage to it. non-vintage bottles back for two to three months and the vintages and prestige cuvées for some six months. This, in my opinion, is the absolute minimum, and basic non-vintages would show much more gracefully if given six months postdisgorgement and the vintages over a year. Paillard puts his money where his mouth is, as he invests significantly in post-disgorgement cellaring times. Four months is promised for the Brut Première Cuvée and some 18 to 24 months for the vintage and prestige cuvée. However, the times might be significantly longer, as we witnessed in our tasting where the current cuvée in shipment was already a nine month-old disgorgement. Operation and Recovery Time At the moment of disgorgement, the wine undergoes a sort of trauma. Paillard makes a comparison: "It resembles a patient undergoing a medical operation. As a matter of fact, in the language of cellar workers the verb is `to operate'. Therefore the first requirement of the wine after disgorgement is convalescence. As with surgical operations, the convalescence should be longer for an older subject than for a younger one." Whereas many houses ship the wine forward right after disgorgement, most quality producers keep the The Collection We go on to the tasting where Bruno Paillard is showing us six different disgorgements of Brut Première Cuvée ranging from June 2008 all the way down to September 1997. "I have kept a small inventory of all disgorgements Fi n e D i s c ov e r y "It has been over 20 years and I am still almost alone with this. I don't understand why"

The five `lives' of champagne according to Bruno Paillard 1. Age of fruits Fruit aromas such as citrus and red fruits dominate. The colour is still pale and the mousse, although fine, is very lively. 2. Age of flowers A floral dominance with white flowers and roses. The colour remains pale but the mousse may subside slightly. 3. Age of spices The third period is characterised by accentuation of spiced notes and nuts such as almonds and hazelnuts. since the very beginning," Paillard explains and continues, "But I don't have much left as I love older disgorgements. However, for quite a while now I have started to keep back larger quantities, so that I can better demonstrate the ageing to consumers and even to commercialise a small number of older disgorgements." Paillard has just recently launched a new concept, Old disgorgements collection, exclusive packages of three and five different disgorgements of Brut Première Cuvée. "The wine was in a reductive stage on the lees in the cellar. Disgorgement initiates a process of microoxidation as the lees are removed and air is let into the bottle. Also, as we add sugar at disgorgement, micro-maderisation begins. It is a weak and slow process, but perceptible. These two together will characterise the evolution of the wine postdisgorgement." Here is a tip for what you can do to make your 40 euros' champagnes taste like wines twice the price. Keep them back for months or years in ideal storing conditions and you will get some wonderful surprises! However, a word of caution is at place. Not all champagne ages this well. Just the ones that are born with the right quality. Bruno Paillard was ahead of his time in the 1980s with the disgorgement dates on bottles. However, as champagne is moving towards being a `serious' wine rather than a mere celebration drink, the time has finally arrived. Bruno Paillard's impact will be great in making the disgorgement date the new standard. The BCC Group (Boizel Chanoine Champagne) he directs has already made drastic moves in this direction. Out of the houses that belong to the group, Philipponnat has already started to put the date on the bottles. Rumour says that Lanson is starting in the autumn. When the big guys start to use it we can eventually sigh in relief at a mission accomplished. From then onwards, it will be up to the champagne lover to enjoy his wines as he prefers them ­ with or without post-disgorgement time. 4. Age of toasted aromas 78 Here notes of baked bread, toast and brioche are added. 5. Torrefaction / candied fruit stage of fullness Finally the wine evolves towards notes of candied fruit, gingerbread, honey and even roasted aromas. Verdict of the Tasting The tasting itself is fascinating. We start from the youngest wine, which shows a lot of chardonnay characteristics and delicate white fruit nuances. Pinot Noir aromatics and structure become more evident as the wine develops and opens up in the glass. As we advance, the wines obediently follow the different stages from floral to toasty, as predicted by Paillard earlier. For his non-vintage, I find the 6 (2003) and 8 (2001) year-old disgorgements to be the most pleasing. They have plenty of aromatic richness and layers alongside a still firm and fresh palate. Had we been in a blind tasting I would have thought the wines were vintage level, so intense and structured were they. I found the 10 (1999) and 12 (1997) year-old disgorgements to be fully mature wines, with not much left to gain by further ageing. The 10 year-old suffered from slight cork taint. Even the oldest (1997) was still was still delicious. Bruno Paillard gives a technical explanation to what we see in the glass:

Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée Paillard keeps the varietal blend of his multi-vintage similar every year in order to make the different cuvées and disgorgements fully comparable. The master himself is a great fan of Pinot Noir and red fruit aromas in champagne, therefore his cuvée has a high red grape share. Pinot Noir comprises 45 percent of the blend, while 22 percent is Pinot Meunier and the remaining 35 percent Chardonnay. The rich style is created by lavish use of reserve wines, 25 to 45 percent depending on the vintage. The reserve wine is kept as previous years' blends, therefore it is possible to maintain the exact grape proportions from year to year. Around one fifth of the cuvée is barrel fermented. The wine is kept on lees for at least three years and stored post-disgorgement for a minimum of four months. The sweetening dosage is modest, 7 to 8 g/l in order to keep the wines as authentic and pure as possible. Medium-deep lemon colour, lively small bubbles. Delicate lemon and floral notes, red fruits in the back. Mineral complexity coming at the backpalate. Wide, lively mouth-feel with subdued complexity. Long length. Delicate autolysis effect coming after some time in the glass. 90p N NV Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée Disgorgement: September 2005 evolution on the palate than on the nose. Long and focused on the palate. 79 Medium-deep lemon colour. Much more depth and signs of evolution on the nose: nice caramel notes, ripe sweet apple pie aromas, delicate toast. Opens wonderfully in the glass. Turns hazelnutty in the nose with time. Very linear still in the mouth, less 92p N NV Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvee Disgorgement: November 2003 appearing on the long, mineral and focused, intensely fruity palate. Medium-deep lemon colour. Fine-sized bubbles. Open and toasty, mineral Chardonnay toastiness. Sweet apple and patisserie. Perfumed honey nose. Sweetness accentuated with delicate red berries 92p N NV Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée Disgorgement: July 2001 Medium-deep lemon colour turning towards gold. Rich and round sweet roasted coffee nose, honey and dried fruit. Red berries and orange peel. Wide open and round on the palate. Plush and smooth. Red apple tart with vanilla cream. Perfectly integrated bubbles and complex fruit and acidity. Delicious mineral backbone. Burnt aromatics appearing at the end. Energetic yet evolved. Wonderful. 91p N NV Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée Disgorgement : September 1997 Deep golden colour. Wide and rich smooth palate at full maturity. Honey, dried fruit, oriental spices as well as some dusty notes. Good depth and mature sweetness. Long, soft and dense. Peaking now. Fi n e D i s c ov e r y 88p N NV Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée Disgorgement: June 2008

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My Home Abroad 81 Hôtel de la Paix Text: Essi Avellan MW / Photo: Pekka Nuikki One would expect that Reims, the champagne capital, would be bursting with champagne bars, but that, surprisingly, is not the case. When I mentioned this deficit to a local during a visit in 2005, I was pointed to the first and only champagne bar in town, the bar at Hôtel de la Paix. At the time it was still brand new, having only recently been launched, and it appealed to me at first sight. Since then, the hotel and its bar have become my home abroad. Fi n e E x p e r i e n c e

Hôtel de la Paix My Home Abroad 82 I still remember entering the bar for the first time. Hôtel de la Paix is situated in the very core of Reims, its entrance being right off the main pedestrian street, Place Drouet d'Erlon. The stylish stone building was inviting, as was the modern and spacious lobby, with red carpet ushering the way in. Continuing from the lobby, a wide, glass-walled hallway led to the bar. The bar, which resembled a comfortable and chic living room, was empty but gorgeous. Bright, brave colours and simplistic lines, all brought together by dark wood. Plenty of character, but the overall effect was still surprisingly soothing. I became excited when I spotted a gigantic champagne cooler ­ over a metre wide ­ filled with champagne bottles of different sizes. Finally, a proper champagne bar, I remember thinking and bravely entered, even though I was the only client. I took a seat by the bar and started to study the champagne list. Despite it fitting onto one A4 page, I was pleased with what I saw: some 50 champagnes, mainly from Grande Marques, at reasonable prices. Just the place I had been looking for, I thought, and I ordered a glass of champagne from the bartender, whose name tag read Erol. I started sipping my champagne, but felt slightly uncomfortable in the empty bar. But suddenly the entertainment was on the house, as Erol started to throw ­ or flair ­ bottles in the air, demonstrating skill that made Tom Cruise in Cocktail look like a rookie. The more impressed I looked, the more demanding the flairing became. People passing by the hotel lobby started to enter to enjoy the show. All of a sudden, the bar was buzzing with life ­ and I had to order another glass of champagne just to figure out this stunningly remarkable place that I had just discovered.

83 Champagnes and Cocktails Now, nearly four years later, I sit again in the bar, which has not changed much, other than in popularity. It has become the place to enjoy a drink in town and it gathers together the hotel residents, wine industry people and the locals. As I recount my first experience to the hotel owner Antoine Renardias, he comments with some nostalgia in his voice: "Those were the very early days of the new bar. I needed a Chief Bartender here who could entertain. Erol Özdemir had just arrived in Reims from Turkey to be with his girlfriend. He spoke no French but he could flair like no one else. He had a 20-year career as a flairing bartender in Turkey. In fact, last year he competed in France for the first time and finished among the top 10 finalists in the national championships!" So, is de la Paix more of a champagne bar or a cocktail bar, I enquire. "It is a combination of both. The tourists and the wine trade drink champagne, but the trendy Reims youth loves our cocktails. We have by far the best cocktail culture in town. Because of Erol's knowledge, we can do virtually any cocktail, not just the classics." Why I love the bar has a lot to do with the combination of local people and international guests. This is the bar where everybody meets for the pre-dinner aperitif. And this is where they all return for the nightcap. But it is especially on Fridays and Saturdays that the bar becomes the pulse of Reims, when the local youth fill the bar. confirmation that this really was the only champagne bar in the city of Reims, which boast a population of 250,000. "It is the one and only. The reason must be that there is a bottle of champagne in every fridge in Reims. Champagne is such an essential part of our life that a special bar is not needed. I drink champagne every day and one can get champagne by the glass in every single café, restaurant and bar in town." It must be difficult to limit your range of champagne to 40­50 with so many champagne houses bringing their clients here? "It is difficult, but I try to keep the list to one page. I choose the wines personally The One and Only What brought me here in the first place was champagne, so I wanted to ask Antoine Renardias more about the champagne bar concept. Firstly, however, I needed but the bar staff alter the bottles we have by the glass. The selection varies day by day, based on our clientele. But there is a long history of working with the champagne houses. It started already with my father and grandfather, who created the co-operation." Fi n e E x p e r i e n c e

Family History I have been a frequent resident in the hotel over the past four years but it was only now I discovered the charming family roots it has. Antoine, who belongs to the fourth generation, tells me about the beginnings: "My great-grandfather Victor Renardias left his home in Clermont-Ferrand to go to Paris. Destiny made him take a break at the Café du Progrès in Reims. After an hour's conversation with the owner, who was looking to sell, he decided to take over the business and to settle in Reims with his wife and five children." Champagne has been a war zone many times, but it was during the First World War that the city was totally destroyed by the Germans. The Notre Dame Cathedral was ravaged and only about thirty inhabitable houses remained standing. Café du Progrès, too, vanished. The sizeable restorations following the war turned Reims into an Art Déco city and the Renardias family built a new establishment, naming it HôtelRestaurant de la Paix. Antoine continues with the history: "The first extension of the hotel took place in 1973 when the hotel grew from 41 rooms to 99, thanks to a new building erected on Place Buirette." Antoine himself, born in 1970, virtually grew up in this hotel, having started working here at the age of 15. He completed his studies at EHL, the Lausanne School of Hotel Management, and joined his father Jacques and his uncle Michel at de la Paix in 1998. Soon after, a dream opportunity was given to Antoine when he had the chance to turn the traditional Hôtel de la Paix into a stylish, modern hotel. Complete Makeover A new page in the history of the Hôtel de la Paix was turned at the beginning of the new millennium, when Jacques and Antoine Renardias approached two local creative artists to begin a complete renovation of the hotel. Antoine Renardias explains his ideas behind the project: "We needed to bring this place into the 21st century. I travel extensively and this is the style of hotel I prefer. A cosy, international style hotel, with a local spirit and friendly staff. We turned to a Reims-based architect, Jacques Bléhaut, who pictured Hôtel de la Paix as a conjugation of our past and the future. At the same time we added an important extension of 80 rooms, making it a 84 total of 169 rooms." A hall on two levels, wide galleries, conference rooms, an auditorium, a terrace and a covered swimming pool are all organised around a formal central garden. The setting has a presence such as if it were made of fragments of an 18th or 19th Century chapel and it reminds the residents that the hotel is established in the historical centre of Reims. "The in interior Martine designer, Poulet, another specialised stores and Champenois, equipping department boutiques. Her work at our hotel consisted of a synthesis of her past experiences. Her style is contemporary with a touch of `chic' classicism. The focus is on space, comfort and lighting. Most furniture was also designed by her and manufactured by a well-known name in French furniture, Ligne Roset." Some of the pieces by Ligne Roset have since become collectables. Such as the `Facett' armchair by Roland and Erwan Boroullec, which was first designed for the reception of Hôtel de la Paix, but is now presented at the Museum of Decorative Art in Paris. It was again artists from Reims, Jean Bigot and Jean-Pierre Touchet, who added the final touches, by painting all the artwork for the Hôtel de la Paix. Antoine Renardias

More to Come? The Hôtel de la Paix renovations started in 2003 and have only recently been completed, of the with the entire hotel now reflecting Renardias' vision. The generations Renardias family have caringly expanded and modernised the hotel during recent times. But, I ask of Antoine, are there still more expansions to come? "It has been under renovation virtually since the day I started over 10 years ago. So nothing major is being planned for a little while. However, that small house at the end of the courtyard also belongs to us. I do have a dream to turn that into a spa one day..." Knowing Antoine, I am sure we will get to enjoy the spa sooner rather than later. Even if there are numerous great hotels in the area, it is Hôtel de la Paix where I feel most at home. It has all I need for a pleasant stay: a central location, an easy-going, warm and spacious atmosphere, with a lively buzz of local and foreign clientele. And great bubbles. 85 Accomodation: 168 rooms from 110 to 205 /night (Traditional, Privilège, Deluxe) 1 Suite (75 m2) 350 /night Bar: Open 7 days a week from 4 pm Relaxation area: Reserved exclusively for the hotel guests: heated and covered swimming pool, jacuzzi, hammam, solarium, fitness room Business area: Amphitheatre with seating capacity for 200 Nine meeting rooms with capacities from 10 to 80 people Best Western Hôtel de la Paix 9, rue Buirette ­ 51100 REIMS Tel : +33 3 26 40 04 08 www.bestwestern-lapaix-reims.com Fi n e E x p e r i e n c e

no. 125 of The 1000 finest wines ever made Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1952 Text/photo: Pekka Nuikki The magnificently scenic Clos des Goisses vineyard is owned by the Philipponnat champagne house, which was founded in 1910 by Pierre and Auguste Philipponnat. Purchased in 1935, the Clos des Goisses vineyard was one of the first vineyard acquisitions by the Philipponnats, and it was immediately decided that a single vineyard wine would be made from this 5.5 hectare plot. It was first called Vin des Goisses but soon renamed Clos des Goisses to reflect the Burgundy-style single vineyard mentality. This flagship wine fond of Jules Verne's novels, and certain characters of Verne's books appear in some paintings. Amongst these vast works, I opened a Clos des Goisses 1952 champagne, which I had brought with me to celebrate this meeting, larger than life in its meaning for me. However, I did not yet understand the grand, vinous and very complex character of Clos des Goisses. Its heaviness, abundance and layers, which are unusual for a champagne, were still too strange and challenging for my sense of taste at the time. Clos des Goisses left a dreamlike and distant feeling, one that I have tried to reach many times since. I finally got the chance to taste it again last autumn when I The first Clos des Goisses I ever tasted was from 1952. It was many years ago during a visit to Belgium and Paul Delvaux, a well known and respected artist, whom I greatly admire. At the beginning of the 90s I received an invitation to St. Idesbald, a small village on the Belgian coast, where the museum and home of Paul Delvaux is situated. There is a mystic and subconscious feel to Delvaux's pictures; he is often called the painter of dreams and poetry. What appeals to me are the beautiful and strong colours and an extremely three-dimensional use of space. The works are very accurate in their drawing technique and full of detail. In spite of their accuracy, they are not just pedant, but eye-catching, usually many metres long. In Delvaux's works, the woman represents nature and the centre of the earth, towards which everyone moves. A woman left alone turns her eyes out from the picture's reality to meet the viewer. Details often found in his works are mirrors, the full moon, crescents, candles, books and a flutist. Delvaux was was visiting Philipponnat. Charles Philipponnat was in a very generous and kind mood and opened a bottle of 1952, and though my notes then were just as emotional, they were just as real now. 86 is one of the longest lasting champagnes available today, so Charles Philipponnat recommends decanting when it is drunk young, which is exceptional for champagnes. 97 p 1952 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2008/2015 x 4 D 10 min / G 30 min Bottle was in perfect condition. A bit pale in colour but a very complex, toasty, with an unbelievably fresh Pinot nose. The black grape gives depth and richness, filling the mouth and staying incredibly long on the palate. Great acidity / weight balance. Silky and soft, ripe sweetness at the finish, however, quite a powerful and meaty wine. Far more suitable for drinking with food than as an aperitif. What a treat.

Silky and soft, ripe sweetness at the finish, however, quite a powerful and meaty wine. 87 no 15 Th e 1 0 0 0 Fi n e s t W i n e s

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Rarit NE y FI Text : Essi Avellan MW 89 I was reminded recently by the small producer Champagne Chartogne-Taillet, that it is not only the Grande Marques who can be innovative. For a few years already I have been aware that this quality-oriented grower from Merfy possessed some rare, non-grafted vines. In the past, these grapes were always blended in the house's prestige cuvée Fiacre. However, in 2006, Champagne Chartogne-Taillet decided to bring these grapes to the fore and make a unique single vineyard Pinot Meunier from the special pre-phylloxera vines. With the wine's launch now underway, I eagerly visited Chartogne-Taillet, to be among the first to taste it. The idyllic, country-style property of Champagne Chartogne-Taillet is situated in the village of Merfy, in the Montagne de Reims. Most of the reputed villages lie to the south of the city of Reims. However, Merfy is on the north side, with its vineyards looking south towards the city. "In the old days before the world wars and phylloxera, these northern villages were widely planted and highly esteemed. But as this was such a strategic point, one being able to look down to the city, this has been a war zone many times throughout history. Therefore, the amount of vineyards has diminished from 105 to 45 hectares," says 27-yearold Alexandre Chartogne, who belongs to the new generation of Chartognes. From the first few seconds of the visit, I can see Alexandre Chartogne is a highly passionate vinegrower. He works closely with his father Philippe and mother Elisabeth, but one can already see the enthusiasm and innovative spirit within him. Alexandre has worked at Jacques Selosse in Avize, whose natural methods, biodynamic thinking and usage of barrels have clearly made an impact on his work. And he has some fantastic experiments and projects going on. "Here, like in every village in Champagne, there are both good and bad plots of land. To generalise, our wines are not as fruity as the wines from the southern part of the Montagne. However, ours are more powerful and complex, due to the southern exposure and deep soils." To Graft or not to Graft What is extraordinary about their story, is the survival of non-grafted vines in a few of the vineyards at Chartogne-Taillet. The phylloxera vine louse spread around Europe in the 19th century, Fi n e R a r i t y

90 killing virtually every vine. The phylloxera is a louse that eats the roots of the vine, damaging them permanently and eventually killing the plant. The only known cure was to graft all of the vines on to American rootstocks that are naturally resistant to it. There are several regions, as well as individual plots of land in the world, that have resisted the louse. Champagne Bollinger's two vineyards, which produce the prestigious Vieilles Vignes Françaises, have been the only commonly known ones. "We have one vineyard of 0.4 hectares in size, growing 50 to 60 year-old non-grafted vines. Also, in the middle of a grafted plot, we have some 0.3 hectares more of non-grafted vines. It is the sandy and calcareous sandy soils here that are not phylloxera friendly." Alexandre Chartogne is so sure of his soil´s resistance to phylloxera, he even aims to plant some more non-grafted vines. "I am very sure ­ 95 per cent sure ­ that we will get no trouble from phylloxera. I have just uprooted a vineyard and now I need to let it rest for a couple of years before I can replant it. I will plant 0.5 hectares with non-grafted vines. I will partly use the regular vinestock but I will also partly play with provigneage ­ the layering method of cultivation." Layering is practiced also at Bollinger Vieilles Vignes. This ancient method consists of very dense planting ­ some 30,000 plants per hectare, as opposed to 9,000 in regular vineyards. The vineyard is consistently rejuvenated by allowing new vines to be born from the canes of older vines. This method demands a lot of skill and effort. At Bollinger, for instance, there are four men solely responsible for the picturesque vineyards, totalling 0.52 hectares. "0.5 hectares is the maximum I will plant now, as I don't have the resources of Bollinger. It is just me treating the vineyard. But it is fascinating to see what these wines will be like. The non-grafted vines are famous for producing wines with less alcohol, for instance." Natural Approach The Chartogne-Taillet approach is very natural in all respects. The vineyards are not exposed to herbicides. The wines are fermented, interestingly, with their natural wild yeast. And not just any wild yeasts, as Alexandre prepares yeast from the individual plots, to be used for the fermentations of the wine from that particular vineyard. The wine is fermented in four to nine year-old barrels. The production is tiny, from 700 to 2,000 bottles. Needless to say, Alexandre wishes no sugar to interfere with the taste of terroir, so the wine is non-dosed. To exemplify that, he takes two bottles standing sur point in the cellar and disgorges them for us a la volée. It tastes wonderful when freshly disgorged. Les Barres is the first in a new line of single vineyard wines from Chartogne-Taillet. Next will be a 100 per cent Pinot Noir les Orizeaux and a 100 per cent Pinot Meunier les Alliées. But they are another story. In the meantime, buy les Barres when you see it. The intended retail price is great, around 40 euros, as Alexandre wants all wine lovers to be able to afford this unique wine. 93p 20 2006 Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres 2009/2020 Prerelease 20 2007 Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres This is the inaugural vintage of 100 per cent Pinot Meunier grapes from non-grafted vines. A pronounced, toasty and creamy nose with bruised apple, vanilla and tropical notes. Vinous and wide on the palate with a powerful citric backbone. Very much a wine with gentle oak and wood notes appearing beyond the opulent fruit. Deliciously creamy mousse and long length. Due to the rich fruit and vinosity, the non-dosed nature is not a problem. We also tasted a pre-release of the following vintage that was ageing in the cellars. The 2007 was a less substantial year, so only 700 bottles were made. Less toasty and more fresh with tropical fruit and banana appearing. The oak is also more prominent in this vintage. Wide and lush on the palate, with attractive spiciness coming at the back palate. Misses some of the concentration and power of the 2006, but still a great wine.

Text: Anna Hakala Hostellerie La Briqueterie 92 Sometimes when I tour Champagne, I choose to avoid the livelier capitals of Reims and Epernay and instead explore the peaceful countryside outside the towns. La Briqueterie, a haven of charm and tranquility, is a highly esteemed Relais & Châteaux property, located just outside of Epernay. Situated on a low hilltop amongst vineyards, La Briqueterie is bordered by a long wall that encircles the gardens and the small courtyard of the property. On a Sunday evening in February, the impression of peace and luxury was further heightened by the warm welcome from the desk and the attentive transport of luggage to our rooms. The classic provincial style continues inside the hotel and through to its rooms, which include four different categories for discerning guests: classical, superior, deluxe, and junior suite. A unique colour scheme is afforded to each room in the hotel and there is a warm opulence in the style. In general, the interior of the hotel is decorated with rich flower patterns and brave strong colours, in an inviting country-house atmosphere. Pre-dinner Delights As we arrived close to the restaurant's closing time, we decided to take our aperitif immediately after checking in. For this purpose, we were guided to the salon, where the evening got underway with a glass of Perrier-Jouët by the fireplace and wonderful teasers consisting of salty homemade crackers and local cold cuts. During our pre-dinner relaxation, we were approached by the various restaurant attendants to select our courses. Every imaginable restaurant occupation was represented here, with the educated attendants offering impeccable service. The sommelier discussed our choice of wines (in this case quite naturally champagnes) with us, and our waiter described to us the different courses presented on the carte. Among the starters, we found traditional accompagnements of champagne and other globally

renowned foundation stones of the French cuisine. "Merci infiniment", was our waiter's response once we had finally managed to make up our minds and leave our orders, while sipping the Perrier-Jouët. The rather vast wine list naturally included a large selection of champagnes (at relatively high prices), and I delightfully noted the many blanc de blancs in different vintages. One of them was Guy Charlemagne 'Mesnillèsime' Blanc de Blancs 2000 (the name being a play on words, as Mesnil refers to the parcels of origin in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and millésime, vintage). It became our choice, and later we learned that the champagne bears a two-piece metal cap, a piquant detail of distinction, used by just two producers. portions quite deeply. The foie gras came in a stylish composition consisting of duck liver, fig preserves, marinated orange filets and striped red-and-white wine jelly. The tastes were simple and austere, clearly in order to fit with the champagne. We found the entire course pleasant, the most interesting taste being the orange slices. The main course scallops bore a veritable aroma of open fire. They were tasty and meaty while the seafood risotto under them was excellent. This dish also worked very nicely with our champagne. More than sated with our food so far and knowing the dessert was still on its way, we decided to skip the gorgeous wheeled cheese buffet. That mistake still haunts me to this day. Our desserts were impressive, up to being tourist attractions. Two of us chose a selection of macaroons in all imaginable forms and flavours, with almost any filling one could wish for. The plates were filled with imaginative fruits of true haute couture baking labour. The other half of our party ordered another dessert, a pineapple filled with vanilla cream, served on a slice of bun and surrounded with a cream of raisins. The pre-dessert definitely deserves a mention as well: a creamy delight made of dark and milk chocolate, seasoned with exotic fruit salad. Our sommelier, Frédéric Chesneau, did beautifully with his recommendations. During our meal he also told discrete stories about the house, as well as important Champagne personalities. Monsieur Chesneau also told us that La Briqueterie was once a brick works (wherefrom the name came) and that the hotel activity is 30 years old. Practically all the facilities were refurbished after June 2004, when Mrs Alix Philipon took over the property. Slow Food Breakfast After a good night's sleep and a short morning walk in the jardin, the breakfast offered a true, slow life experience, with a huge service trolley filled with homemade delicacies. I recommend reserving at least one hour to savour this unforgettable morning experience. The highlights were soft-boiled eggs, wild truffle cream and scrambled eggs with lobster crumbs. After the magnificent breakfast, I took a short stroll in the garden. It, quite naturally, looked austere in the beginning of February, but it was so neat and well maintained, that it was easy to imagine what kind of Eden it becomes in summertime. According to the hotel information, it is actually the home of a 1300-foot rose garden, varied with seasonal flowers including tulips, peonies and grove trees such as olive and laurels. La Briqueterie also hosts a spa. We did not get the opportunity to visit it to enjoy the sauna, hammam, solarium, indoor pool, or beauty centre, but judging from the introduction, it is just as pleasant as the rest of the La Briqueterie concept. The spa was opened in 2006, together with the bar and the gastronomic restaurant. La Briqueterie left me planning for a second visit, preferably during the summer. Not just for the sake of the not yet tested spa, but also for that of the garden, that must be a true paradise for body and soul. And of course, for that slow breakfast and later meals ­ cheese buffet absolutely included! The Dining Experience After entering the classically-decorated dining room, the dinner started with amuse-bouche; a rich and tasty chestnut cream. As an accompaniment to that, we were served different varieties of home-baked breads. The butter of the night, Echiré, came from one of the French quality-classified butter regions, A.O.C. Beurre des Deux-Sèvres, and tasted less salty than the Isigny variety that was more familiar to the members of our dinner party. The style of the food, supervised by award-winning chef Gilles Goess, is a subtle combination of traditional French cuisine and the true tastes of the Champagne region. The beautiful marriage of these two is ensured by uncompromising requirements on first-class staff, as well as raw materials. All four of us decided on foie gras de canard and scallops, so it was possible to discuss and analyse the 93 La Briqueterie is situated four kilometres outside Epernay. The distance from Paris and its airports is about 150 kilometres. The hotel contains 42 rooms distributed in four categories, ranging from 25 to 60 m²: Classical, Superior, Deluxe and Junior Suite, all equipped to meet modern requirements. The prices start from 180 /night. For more information, visit www.labriqueterie.fr Hostellerie la Briqueterie 4, Route de Sézanne 51530 Vinay (Champagne) Tel. + 33 (0)3 26 59 99 99 Fi n e R e s tau r a n t

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97 Text: Essi Avellan MW In more recent times Champagne Mumm's greatest prominence has often been on more recent times, Champagne Mumm s greatest prominence has often been t o Formu One pod ums and several othe not-so-vin u e ebrat o s roun the worl But Formula One podiums and several other not-so-vinous celebrations around the world. But rmul n n vera her t vinou und r t ther s there is a glorious wine history to Mumm and the company is now determined to revive he oriou wi e isto y ous umm d the ompa y o determined ete min term evive its ol q alit and lass with he recreatio its old quality and class with the recreation of the legendary prestige cuvée René Lalou. t lity n t s h ecre ion the lege dary prest g cuvé René Lalou. creat e egen y e tig vée e é al alou Fi n e L e g e n d

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E very now and then I come across the wonderful, jagged old bottles of Cuvée Réne Lalou, that were produced between the 1966 and 1985 vintages. Opening and enjoying these maturing, rich gastronomic wines always made me yearn for something similar to be produced again by Mumm. Finally, last year, a recreation of Cuvée René Lalou saw daylight. Trying to reproduce something so legendary is always risky, so Mumm ambitiously went from copying to perfecting the original masterpiece. And the blending of a handful of single-vineyard wines became their unique recipe. 99 A legend's namesake G reat champagnes have traditionally been named after people, as opposed to the more vineyard-designated approaches taken by other wines. This is no wonder, as champagne is a product where human intervention plays a key role. At Mumm, too, their prestige cuvée was named after an important man in the company's history. The honour did not go to the founder of the company, G.H. Mumm, whose name already adorns all the bottles, but instead, it was Mr René Lalou to whom the prestige cuvée was addressed. He certainly deserves his own prestige cuvée, as he was single-handedly responsible for repeatedly rescuing the company and its vineyards after numerous disasters. René Lalou was not originally a champagne man. Born in Paris in 1877, he was a qualified lawyer working as an advocate in the courts of Paris in the early 1900s. It was his marriage to the Dubonnet family ­ the aperitif makers ­ that transformed the path of his life towards the drinks industry. But Dubonnet was not to be his destiny either, as the First World War interrupted his plans. René Lalou served in the French army with distinction from 1914 until the end of the war. His responsibility area was troops' supply, in which function he visited Champagne and met Georges Robinet, then head of G.H. Mumm. Soon after the war, Mr Robinet called for René Lalou to join the company to help them recover from the effects of phylloxera and the Great War. Lalou joined the board of directors in 1920, was appointed its vice-chairman in 1929 and eventually became chairman in 1939. This is the post he held until his death in 1973. Intermittently, he sat on the boards of ten other beverage companies including Evian, Taittinger, Seagram, and Barton-Guestier. Lalou was a highly talented businessman, under whose guidance G.H. Mumm became the largest champagne house in Reims. René Lalou Fi n e L e g e n d

100 René Lalou Man of the Vineyards But it was not just finance that interested Lalou. He also had a great understanding and passion for the vineyards. Before the Second World War, Lalou had already increased Mumm's vineyard ownership from 50 hectares to 96, and his emphasis was always in the Grand Cru villages, especially Bouzy, Aÿ, Cramant, and Avize. He also saw that the old parcels were restored after the ravages of the wars. Old vines were pulled up, replanted and the vineyards re-organised. In Avize, for instance, he restored the legendary les Maladries du Midi, in Cramant la Croix de Cramant, in Verzy les Houles and in Verzenay les Rochelles. He also made superb acquisitions such as les Villiers in MaillyChampagne, les Hannepés in Bouzy and les Perthes in Cramant, les Bionnes and les Briquettes in Avize, as well as Valnon in Aÿ and les Crupots in Ambonnay. "Only the best" was his much heard motto. It was towards the end of his life and career in 1966 that he decided to craft Cuvée René Lalou. It was essentially a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from his favourite seven villages listed above. It reached a highly esteemed status, especially among top chefs and sommeliers in Michelin-starred restaurants. Nine vintages were made until the production was stopped with the 1985 vintage, the reason being that Seagram, Mumm's parent company at the time, had a desire to sell the company and to cut the inventories. The house did not have any intention of continuing with production of the wine in the future, this being exemplified by the fact that the unique bottle shape of Cuvée René Lalou was sold to another champagne house.

101 Didier Mariotti Rebirth of a Prestige Cuvée The Mumm quality and image quickly deteriorated after René Lalou's time and it was not until the mid1990s that quality focus returned. Step by step, Mumm went about recovering their lost glory. The first step in the process was the launch of Mumm Grand Cru, a great, long-matured, gastronomic cuvée. But Mumm had another ace up its sleeve; they had crafted and nurtured, in secrecy, a recreation of the original Cuvée René Lalou since 1998. It is never an easy task trying to revive something old and legendary. Often a better idea is to reinvent or improve, as they chose to do at Mumm. The house's appreciated cellar master Didier Mariotti explains: "Our aim was to seek inspiration from, and to stay true to, the original cuvée. However, we wanted to perfect it by digging deeper into the founder's ideology and the terroir." Champagne is above all a blended product. However, nowadays there is a strengthening trend towards single terroir wines. It is the combination of these Mumm was after. "We aimed to combine the Burgundy-style vineyard approach to the cult of blending. René Lalou knew the Mumm terroir thoroughly. In homage to him, Cuvée R. Lalou is blended from 12 individual vineyards from seven Grand Cru villages, all having been acquired or restored by Lalou himself. The plots are not necessarily our best, but they are very interesting and have a lot of personality, which is necessary to create such a wine." Fi n e L e g e n d

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The Construction Cuvée R. Lalou remains a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, a balanced cuvée constructed from wines from all or some of the 12 plots. The inaugural 1998 vintage, for example, was constructed from seven plots, of which four were Pinot Noir and three Chardonnay. All wines are vinified separately in small stainless steel vats in a controlled 18C temperature. True to the Mumm house style, all batches go through malolactic fermentation. In March or April, the final blend is formed and the wine is put to cellar for second fermentation and long bottle ageing, with seven years being the minimum period. As opposed to Mumm's normal recipe of dosage wine, Cuvée R. Lalou receives special treatment. Mariotti fills some 20 one to three year-old Burgundy barrels with Cramant and Bouzy wine. He experiments with different ages and toasts of oak and uses this liquor d'expedition to bring the final touch to the wine. As it is launched mature, a minimal dosage of around six grammes per litre is sufficient. After at least six months in the cellar after disgorgement, the wine is ready for shipment. Regrettably, the company had to redesign the bottle, as the original bottle shape is now owned by Vranken. The new bottle is less dramatic but very stylish in a classical way. The old shape is still commemorated in the R. Lalou logo's angular shape. The Palate It is time to taste the new cuvée with Didier Mariotti. He takes out two different glasses, one large, tulip-shaped glass designed for R. Lalou and one Burgundy-shaped wine glass. Additionally, we taste the wine in two different temperatures, at 8 and 14 degrees. "R. Lalou is foremost a wine, secondarily a champagne. It has an intriguing, constant battle going on between the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir components. In the tulip-shaped glass and lower temperatures it is the Chardonnay that dominates. When served in a Burgundy glass and at higher temperatures, its vinous Pinot Noir sides get accentuated," Mariotti explains. The wine is impressive, concentrated and perfected. The constant, positive evolution in the glass is extraordinary and the wine changes and mutates in the glass endlessly. A Grand Vin, but also a highly intellectual wine. This is not a glass one just gulps down without paying attention to its qualities. The wine is developed, impressive and easy to approach already at the time of its launch, separating it from many prestige cuvées that need a decade to show their full glory and complexity. Even though R. Lalou is fantastic now, it is a wine whose development I wish to follow long into the future. In its approach and quality Cuvée R. Lalou shows us the direction Mumm desires to go. The increased resources brought about by the Pernod Ricard acquisition, as well as the talent and palate of cellar master Didier Mariotti, promise a full comeback for Mumm in the future. 103 94p 1 1998 Mumm Cuvée R. Lalou 2009/2025 Developing golden-hued lemon colour. Tiny, energetic bubbles. Very rich and wide, nutty, apple and honey nose. Great depth and concentration in the mouthfilling, smooth, and velvety palate that is held together by a perfectly seamless acidic spine. Charming creamy mousse. Long, fruity and complex palate. Fi n e L e g e n d

The 12 Cuvée R. Lalou vineyards: Pinot Noir Bouzy les Hannepés: A quite warm and sheltered plot that is always among the first to be picked. Faces directly to the south, with a shallow gradient of six per cent. Low-yielding plot that produces dense and complex wines, with red fruit and spices. Strength makes it often an indispensable blending component. Ambonnay les Crupots: Mid-slope location, with south/south-east exposure and an average gradient of 11 per cent. Well sheltered from the north by Montagne de Reims, quite warm near the village of Ambonnay. Poor, red-brown, well-draining soils, with a sub-soil of chalk. Makes well-structured Pinot Noirs, light and fresh at first but they develop in the mouth. Interesting especially at high maturity years. Mailly-Champagne les Villiers: Fast-drying sedimentary plot on the foot of the slopes, facing west. Cold in winter and spring, with a high danger of frost. Late growth and slow ripening. Floral and light Pinot Noir, excellent refreshing qualities in ripe vintages. Replanted in 1987 and used in the cuvees only since 1998. Verzenay les Rochelles: South-west aspect in the middle of the gentle slope. Cold in the winter and spring, the plot receives maximum sunlight in August and September, enjoying a warmer climate. Some of Verzenay's rounded wines in dry, hot years. Highly complex, with a powerful finish providing structure and ageing potential. Verzenay les Perthois: A sandy, light and welldraining soil, with very little organic material. West/ south-west aspect on mid-slope. Located near the village of Verzenay, this plot is fairly cold. Strong mineral accents and lots of fresh fruit bringing elegance, freshness and longevity to the blend. Verzy les Houles: A chalk hilltop to the right of Verzy, this area has an easterly aspect. One of Verzy's most favoured locations, well protected from the north and often more mature than most in the area. Typical Verzy style, full-bodied, with fresh spices and bright green fruit. Mineral and able to impart freshness in years when this is lacking elsewhere. Aÿ Valnon: At the bottom of the hillside, with both south-easterly and south-westerly exposures. Fairly steep 10.5 per cent gradient. Good protection from the north. This area has been recently replanted and had not been used for Cuvée R. Lalou prior to the 2004 vintage. Full wines with hazelnut and honey aromas, good balance and freshness. Chardonnay Avize les Maladries du Midi: Near the foot of the slope, facing directly south, with a slight five per cent gradient. Proximity to the village means protection from cold northerly winds. Good ripening potential even in difficult years. Rich, full chardonnays of great mineral character. Avize les Briquettes: Location at the foot of the hillside, with south/south-east aspect. Cold area susceptible to spring frosts. Cool September nights give the wine a nice touch of acidity. Often rather complex and vinous wine due to slightly heavier soil. Richly aromatic Chardonnay notes and a good texture in the mouth. In mature vintages this wine is often superb. Avize les Bionnes: Sited towards the bottom of the hillside. South/south-east aspect and gentle gradient of approximately five per cent. The location encourages fast ripening. A low hilltop provides protection from the north winds giving steady, often above average maturation levels, with a good mineral flavour. Well-bred and very elegant, with strong floral aromas overlaying citrus fruits. Wines of depth and fine balance even in difficult years. Cramant la Croix de Cramant: Directly southfacing with a steep 14 per cent gradient. The area is sheltered from the north. Early-ripening, with little risk of spring frosts. Pronounced mineral flavours of fresh citrus. Plenty of white-fleshed fruit notes such as apple and peach. Persistent, with clean, flinty undertones. Cramant les Perthes: This east-facing patch is sheltered from the north wind. The vines lie halfway up a gentle slope. Situated in the AvizeCramant basin, this area is colder and late ripening dampness is a common problem. Strongly mineral in character, with finesse and lightness. Grapefruit and lime dominate, vanilla becoming accentuated with ageing. In ripe years, this brings lightness and acidity into the blend. 104 104

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FINE RECOMMENDS In this section, the editorial team of FINE Magazines recommends the places where they have enjoyed and experienced special wine and champagne moments. In each issue, we introduce and highlight the best establishments of one particular city and this time we focus on Helsinki, the capital of Finland. Alongside each individual city, we also recommend places around the world. RESTAURANT GROTESK If you are looking for a party, good food and the best drinks, then Grotesk is the name to bear in mind if travelling to Helsinki. This restaurant has the chicest bar in town, where champagne flows and bartenders use their wizardry to create the fanciest cocktails. They are masters of the art of drinking, and unnoticed, they educate you as you sip and enjoy. Little pieces of knowledge will stay with you, and soon you'll realise that you are a pro. If you are lucky, you may spot Essi Avellan MW, editor of this magazine, sipping her signature champagne cocktail at the bar. The restaurant itself serves peculiar and innovative dishes, where tasty French cuisine meets fresh Scandinavian flavours in a modern and thrilling way. The genuises behind the dishes are the Michelin starred chefs Tommi Tuominen and Teemu Aura from restaurant Demo. They created the idea of a restaurant that would provide a remedy for hunger, thirst and loneliness in a relaxed and cosy manner. In Grotesk, there is space for a bigger crowd to romp about, with seating for 150 in the main dining hall and room for a further 12 within the private room. If you are sitting at one of the three Chef's tables in the main hall, you can interact with the kitchen, thanks to a fantastic view of the real action that occurs there. The menu changes daily and is assembled using the season's freshest and best ingredients. _______________________________________________________ Address: Ludviginkatu 10, 00130 Helsinki Website: www.grotesk.fi Tel. +358 104 702 100 Location: 7 minute walk from the central railway station Open: Lunch: Monday to Friday 11.30­14 Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday 17­22 THE TIGER NIGHTCLUB The Tiger Nightclub is a truly luxurious and exclusive club, situated on the top two floors of a prestigious penthouse location in the heart of Helsinki. This new hotspot was opened on the 20th of March this year and is the most talked about club in Finland. The Tiger has set new standards within Finnish nightlife, in terms of quality and service. This is the only nightclub in the Nordic countries with a Dom Pérignon lounge. It consists of eight bars, with two lounges for VIPs plus one for members only, as well as spacious terrace facilities that overlook the stunning skyline of Helsinki. To get the best seats in the club, reserve a luxurious booth for you and your company. Surprise your guests with the one-and-only champagne show in town, where all eyes are fixed firmly on your party as you order a magnum bottle of Moët&Chandon. The lights are then dimmed and the bottle delivered in an eye-catching way. Three dance floors on three storeys with in-house DJ's, top of the range sound & light system. together with several high-tech flat screens around the premises, will make you feel like the party never stops. ___________________________________ Address: Urho Kekkosen katu 1A, 00100 Helsinki Location: Central Helsinki, 2 minute walk from the bus station. Tel. +358 20 775 9350 Website: www.thetiger.fi Open: Wednesday to Saturday 22­04

Recommends in Helsinki BAR GUI Treat yourself to a glass of bubbly from a selection of 30 different champagnes, as you soak in the contemporary décor of the sophisticated Hilton Helsinki-Vantaa Airport bar. The interior of Bar Gui consists of an open fireplace and comfortable seating, an excellent backdrop for a warm and convivial atmosphere. Apart from the broad champagne selection, Bar Gui provides a fascinating selection of cognacs and whiskies. An informal restaurant, Gui, adjoins the bar and offers a pure taste of Finland -- succulent game and the freshest fish. Those hungry for sports will enjoy the large screens, which boast a broad channel selection, allowing even the most ardent sports fan to keep up with the latest news. _____________________________________________________ Address: Lentäjänkuja 1, Vantaa Tel. +358 9 73 220 Website: www.hilton.com Location: Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, 30 minutes north of the city centre. CHEZ DOMINIQUE This two-Michelin star restaurant is the top restaurant in the Nordic countries and ranks as the 21st best restaurant in the world. This is the place for ultimate gourmands visiting Helsinki. Situated in the centre of Helsinki, the restaurant was set up by head chef and owner Hans Välimäki, in 1998. The main dining area seats up to 50 guests, with room for a further 14 in the private room. The menu itself is a unique combination of the best cuisine that France and Scandinavia have to offer and we at FINE consider it is all brought together by the superb skill of Finland's most experienced sommelier, head waiter Pekka Koiranen. Eating at this establishment is truly a unique experience, and with a number of different menus to choose from, there is something for even the most discerning of customer. _____________________________________________________ Address: Tel. Website: Location: Capacity: Open: Rikhardinkatu 4, 00130 Helsinki +358 9 612 7393 www.chezdominique.fi Central Helsinki 64 Wednesday ­ Friday 11.30­15 and 18­24 Tuesdays and Saturdays 18­24 107 GRAND CASINO HELSINKI ­ AN INTERNATIONAL ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE IN THE HEART OF HELSINKI If you are looking for the excitement of gambling, dining and entertainment in an international atmosphere ­ you should visit the Grand Casino Helsinki. The 300 gambling machines and 30 tables, found on two floors, will test your luck to the limit. No high stakes are required to join in and the helpful staff always makes one feel welcome. They are happy to introduce the casino to you and are available at any time. The Grand Casino Helsinki has delighted us at FINE on numerous occasions with its various shows, restaurants and bars. The greatest experience is created by high-class entertainment shows that are accompanied by delectable dinners. The Show & Dinner nights in Fennia Salon are renowned for great shows, enjoyed with three course dinners starting from ¤ 66/person. For those who find themselves ravenous after a busy night on the tables, the casino serves casual food and flashy drinks at Fills Kitchen & Bar and for night owls, the casino's kitchen provides an array of snacks until half past midnight every night. The Casino welcomes players of all abilities over the age of 18. _________________________________ Address: Website: Tel. Location: Open: Mikonkatu 19, Helsinki www.gch.fi +358 9 680 800 Next to the central railway station Every day from noon to 4am (closed only on Good Friday and Christmas Eve) Fi n e R e c o m m e n d s

HELSINKI DAY SPA ­ INDULGE YOURSELF IN SERENE HELSINKI The architectually stunning Klaus K hotel lends its classy surroundings to this well-being oasis in the heart of Helsinki. Helsinki Day Spa allows its customers the opportunity to escape from the busy city environment and pamper themselves in the hands of knowledgeable specialists, in sumptuous surroundings. Helsinki Day Spa's highly trained staff offer a variety of treatments, from traditional indian massage therapy, all the way through to the latest innovations in enzyme therapy ­ leaving the customer feeling pampered, both physically and spiritually. Whether your trip is for business or pleasure, all you need can be found here. _________________________________________________________ Address: Tel. Website: Location: Open: Erottaja 4, Helsinki +358 9 685 0630 www.dayspa.fi In the Klaus K hotel, 5 minutes from the central railway station. Monday to Friday 08-20, Saturday 09-18, occasional Sundays. TASTY DELI PRIVATE DINING IN THE HEART OF HELSINKI Instead of reserving a table in a chic restaurant for a romantic evening or business meeting, reserve the entire restaurant exclusively for you and your company instead. We at FINE have experienced the intimate atmosphere and TASTY food created by chef Mikael Åberg. Åberg, who gained his experience in the Stockholm restaurant scene. He creates wonderful dishes, described as Scandinavian fusion kitchen based on French cuisine. Being a small and intimate restaurant, TASTY Deli is able to offer the entire restaurant to a small group or party, allowing you full run of the entire premises. They are also available during the day, making this the ideal destination for a cultured and relaxed business meeting or conference. Besides the delicious food and nice wine selection, the atmosphere, exclusive service and friendly staff make this place worth experiencing. ____________________________________________________ Address: Fredrikinkatu 37, 00100 Helsinki Website: www.tasty.fi · deli@tasty.fi Tel. +358 (0)10 548 6303 Location: 7 minute from the central railway station Open: Wednesday to Friday 17-24 Saturdays 16-24 108 RESTAURANT DEMO Located in the fashionable heart of central Helsinki, Restaurant Demo is the brainchild of chefs Teemu Aura and Tommi Tuominen. They are committed to serving home cooked food that is conceived through constant innovation. Every time we have dined at Demo, we have been impressed with the service and attitude. Their ever changing menu offers previously unheard of combinations of food that delight both the palate and the imagination in equal measure. Since gaining its first Michelin star, the restaurant has gone from strength to strength, although both chefs have stayed true to their original ideas. The restaurant has an intimate feel to it and the owners have managed to create a cosy atmosphere, without smothering their customers. A highly recommended experience, with every minute detail covered. The staff are friendly and unobtrusive, while still remaining on hand to cater to your every need. With a menu that can change daily, two visits will never be the same, thus ensuring their loyal clientele keeps coming back time and again. As champagne lovers, we have been impressed with Demo´s splendid selection of prestige champagnes which also includes older vintages. They tend to always have some special wines not listed in their regular winelist, so make sure to ask them when dining here. ______________________________________ Address: Uudenmaankatu 11, 00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 228 90 840 Location: A 7 minute walk from the central railway station, in the direction of Iso-Roobertinkatu Website: www.restaurantdemo.fi Capacity: 45 Open: Tuesday­Saturday 16­23

Recommends in Helsinki A21 COCKTAIL BAR Named the best bar in the world by online service `World's Best Bars' in April of this year, A21 has confirmed itself as one of the best venues, not only in Helsinki, but worldwide. The contemporary design is offset by the relaxed atmosphere and friendly, knowledgeable staff. They are always happy to pass on advice and tips, although if you really want to master the skills of cocktail making, why not join one of their `Cocktail School' classes, either individually or as part of a private group? This superb establishment also caters for business parties and meetings, transforming their White Chamber into a sophisticated, yet relaxed, conference area during the day, thus providing a unique environment that is unrivalled. They boast that their doorbell service means it is `our living room' and that epitomises what A21 is doing. __________________________________ Address: Annankatu 21, Helsinki Location: 7 minute walk from the central railway station Tel. +358 400 21 19 21 Website: www.a21.fi Open: Tuesday­Thursday 20­02, Friday 16­03, Saturday 20­03 HOTEL HAIKKO MANOR A hideaway retreat, Hotel Haikko Manor is less than 50 kilometres east of central Helsinki. It offers guests a feeling of luxury and isolation in beautiful and peaceful surroundings, just ten minutes from the historical old town of Porvoo. Steeped in history, the manor was a favourite holiday destination of the Czar family of Russia before it was converted into a hotel during the mid 20th century. The glorious manor hotel offers a number of luxurious rooms and suites, each uniquely designed. The historic dining rooms have catered for presidential and royal visits, as well as FINE tastings. The kitchen team, led by Executive Chef Jari Uotila, has created fascinating menus that combine innovation with the more traditional dishes that have been served at Haikko for decades. The dishes are complemented by an exclusive wine selection of rarities, including several Pétrus vintages from 1979. The accommodation and restaurant facilities are supported by a spa that offers a wide-ranging selection of pampering treatments, including different saunas, hot pools, a sound wave studio and a super cold treatment room that reaches -110C. The Hotel Haikko Manor is the perfect resort to relax, amid serene surroundings and is highly recommended by the FINE team. ____________________________________ Address: Haikkoontie 114, 06400 Porvoo Tel. +358 19 576 01 Website: www.haikko.fi hotelli.haikko@haikko.fi 109 RESTAURANT CARELIA Restaurant Carelia, opposite the National Opera House in Helsinki, is the number one place for all wine lovers. In its cosy and unique brasserie atmosphere, with 1920s pharmacy interior, one can find over 70 champagnes, several hundred fascinating wines, warm service and delicious food. This is the place where most of our FINE tastings have taken place in Finland. The sommelier, Tuomo Laitinen, has created a superb selection of wines, with temptingly moderate prices. Together with top FInnish sommelier Lauri Vainio, they tend to surprise us with new wines everytime we visit. Since highly esteemed chef Sami Tallberg joined from London Rivington Grill and the Ivy, this restaurant has set the standard as one of the best wine restaurants in Scandinavia. __________________________________ Address: Mannerheimintie 56 00260 Helsinki Website: www.carelia.info ravintola@carelia.info Tel. +358 9 270 90 976 Open: Monday­Friday 11­24, Saturday 16­24 Rec Stmen Fi n e L i f eo m y l e d s

Recommends in Helsinki ESCAPE FOR A WEEKEND BREAK TO HELSINKI! URBAN GETAWAY PACKAGE Starting from 250 / double room The package includes: · One nights accommodation for two in Desire or Envy Room · Glass of champagne upon your arrival · Shop till you drop (I-am card for personal use during your stay) ­ the best boutiques, stores and restaurants in the city, with great benefits (you can also book your own personal shopping time!) · Exclusive Dinner for two in Toscanini (excl. drinks) · 2 Finnkino movie tickets · 2 drink tickets and free entrance to Ahjo Club · The Best of Finland© Breakfast in Ilmatar Reservations and information, please contact rooms@klauskhotel.com / +358 20 770 4700 Packages are valid Fri­Sun and between 15.6.­2.8.2009 also valid during weekdays. KLAUS K Klaus K is one of the leading design hotels in the Nordic countries and is a favourite of ours here at FINE. Each room has a unique style and atmosphere, while Toscanini is a cosy, traditional Italian trattoria that offers superb food in a casual setting. Whenever we at FINE wish to recommend a city centre hotel to any visiting guests, we have no hesitation in suggesting Klaus K, as both the location and service are second to none. ____________________________________ 110 Address: Bulevardi 2, 00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 770 4700 Website: www.klauskhotel.com F8 SWEET A champagne bar located on the 8th floor of Stockmann, the most exclusive and renowned deparment store in Finland. However, this is a champagne bar with a twist. Not only can you sip your bubbles whilst enjoying panoramic views of the refined plaza, but you can also indulge in a number of luxurious foods while you are there. Why not couple the finest champagnes with some caviar, sushi or scampi? Or if your sweet tooth gets the better of you, there is a stunning selection of Karl Fazer handmade special chocolates and pastries. The café-bar itself has a very relaxed feel to it, with the elegance apparent when you step out of the lift. During the day, it offers a nightclub atmosphere, buoying one's mood and instantly lifting the spirit. There is room for 47 people within the seating area, meaning there is never a smothered feeling of overcrowding, while the waiters offer table service and expertise about all their products. Look out for the other seven F8 establishments that occupy the 8th floor and check back soon for a further three new areas that will be completed in the autumn of 2010. ____________________________________ Address: Location: Aleksanterinkatu 52, 00100 Helsinki 8th floor of Stockmann, a three minute walk from the central railway station. www.f8.fi +358 20 729 6803 47 Web: Tel. Capacity:

111 L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé. A consommer avec modération Fi n e L i f e S t y l e

LOR LORENZ ADLON WINE SHOP -- BERLIN, GERMANY Berlin's most exclusive address for wine connoisseurs. A formidable selection of rarities, a great love of wine, tradition and an obligation to the Adlon name define the concept of the Lorenz Adlon Wine Shop. It is located only a few metres away from what was formerly the world's biggest and most important wine store in Berlin. The name of the store refers to Lorenz Adlon ­ founder of the legendary Hotel Adlon in 1907, who also managed the world's biggest and most significant wine store, which boasted a selection of more than one million bottles on the Wilhelmstraße, in Berlin. The Lorenz Adlon Wine Shop now continues this tradition and offers not only a fine selection of wines, but also exceptional service. The wine shop sells mainly wines from "old Europe" ­ notably Germany, Italy and France. The special thing about the wines here, besides the diversity of more than half a million bottles, is the exclusiveness and the bottle sizes. Customers will not only find rarities like a bottle of vintage 1945 MoutonRothschild, but also one of the biggest selections of half bottles of 0.375 litres. The Lorenz Adlon Wine Shop is open Monday to Saturday, from noon until 8.00 pm and is located in the Behrenstraße 72, at the back of the Hotel Adlon. Further information, as well as an extensive wine offers in the online shop, are available at www.adlon-wein.de ______________________________________ Address: Behrenstrasse 72 10117 Berlin, Germany Tel. +49 30 3011 1725 0 concierge@adlon-wein.de Email: Website: www.adlon-wein.de FRANCE AUSTRALIA 112 Number 8 Restaurant & Wine Bar Riverside at Crown 8 Whiteman Street Southbank VIC 3006 Tel. +61 3 9292 7899 www.number8atcrown.com.au - Recognised several times for having one of the best wine selections in the world. Sommelier David Nichols has build a list with broad selection of the best champagnes in magnums and older vintages. Top of the list is Heidsieck & Co Monopole Goût Américan 1907 lifted from the Jönköping shipwreck off the coast of Finland. Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas Davidson Street Port Douglas Queensland 4877 Tel. +61 7 4099 5888 www.starwood.com - A beautiful resort next to the cosy Port Douglas town surrounded by rain forests, the great barrier reef, blue lagoons, beaches, and a golf course. The champagne list is not extensive but serves some of the top champagnes at attractive prices. Remi & Marie Ariston Champagne Ariston Fils 4 & 8 Grande Rue 51170 Brouillet, Marne Tel. +33 3 26 97 43 46 - Wonderful place to stay overnight. Only three guest rooms. Aristons are also a delight in showing you around the vineyards and cellars. La Maison de Rhodes 20 rue Linard-Gonthier 10000 Troyes, Aube - An exceptional find to stay overnight. This 16th century mansion once belonged to the Templar and is located in the middle of the Champagne region. 11 guest rooms. Hotel de Buci 22 rue de Buci 75006 Paris Tel. +33 1 55 42 74 74 - A refined champagne bar in the heart of Saint Germain www.champagneclub.com Do you wish to enjoy the luxurious and euphoric feeling a glass of champagne can provide? Do you love champagne? If yes, this is the club for you! GERMANY Villa Kennedy Kennedyallee 70 D-60596 Frankfurt, Germany Tel. +49 69 717120 - Excellent hotel with a great winter garden champagne bar. Hotel Trüffel Webergasse 6-8 65183 Wiesbaden - Fine truffle shop and champagne bar King Kamehameha Club Hanauer Landstr. 192 60314 Frankfurt am Main www.king-kamehameha.de - Good champagne bar and tasting rooms Restaurant Burg Sonnerberg Am Schlossberg 20 65191 Wiesbaden - Great winelist and a superb view ACG BAR and LOUNGE Kurfürstendamm 171 10707 Berlin www.artandchampagne.de/ - Great mix of champagne and art. Weinhaus Zum Krug Hauptstrasse 34 Hattenheim 65347 - Long winelist and cosy atmosphere. L'ASSIETTE CHAMPENOISE -- CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE This place is not only a awarded restaurant in the heart of Champagne, it is a destination to experience modern cuisine champenoise, created by the youngest ever chef with two Michelin stars, Arnaud Lallement. Despite the young age of 34, Lallement runs his family restaurant with great charisma, passion and a progressive mind. The five-course creative menus (130­155 euros), with delicate flavours from local products in focus, form the core of the offering. The food is complimented with a fascinating selection of wines. The list of over 200 champagnes is overwhelming and fulfills the needs of even the most demanding champagne lover. The milieu in the bar and lounge is very chic with its retro style giving a nice twist to classically decorated dining room. The terrace with the garden view is as a nice place to start the gastronomic journey as well as to finish it with a glass of your favourite champagne. The generous staff and the cosy atmosphere make one feel as if dining in a members -- only club rather than in a restaurant open to the public. Visitors should also note the facilities next door. The hotel, with its 55 rooms and pool, makes this place an oasis in Champagne. _______________________________________ Address: 40, avenue Paul-Vaillant-Couturier, 51430 Tinqueux, Champagne, France +333 26 84 64 64 Tel: Website: www.assiettechampenoise.com Open: Closed on Tuesdays (lunch & dinner), Wednesday (lunch) all the year

Recommends Worldwide CHÂTEAU LES CRAYÈRES -- CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE Château Les Crayères is an icon of the Champagne region. It has been the festive centre of Reims for over a century and was originally built as a residence for Madame Pommery. Since 1983, it has served the whole region as the most prestigious restaurant. It has become a pilgrimage destination for gourmands and a showcase of the champagne producers. The château stands on the edge of Reims in an resplendent seven-hectare garden with serene views. It also has 20 luxurious rooms reflecting the glorious Belle Epoque style. The hotel's two Michelin star restaurant is run by the highly esteemed chef, Didier Elena, who has gained his experience in Alain Ducasse restaurants. He and hotel director Fabrice Mercier have built, together with the head sommelier Philippe Jamesse, a fascinating concept of seasonal champagne menus made exclusively for different champagne houses. To gain the ultimate Champagne experience at Les Crayères, one should book a package of Dom Pérignon Discovery (¤2,090 for two). This package includes the accommodation in glorious garden view rooms a VIP welcome and a visit to Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon cellars. The highlight of the all-inclusive package is the Dom Pérignon dinner created by Didier Elena. Les Crayères is the epic centre of the spirit of Champagne. ____________________________________ Address: Tel: Website: 64, bd Hanry Vasnier 51685 Reims, France +33 326 828080 www.lescrayeres.com USA Kronenschloesschen Hotel & Restaurant Rheinallee 3 65347 Eltville-Hattenheim Tel. +49 6723 640 www.kronenschloesschen.de - The home of Rheingau Wine & Gourmet Festival GREAT BRITAIN Texture 34 Portman Square, W1H 7BY London Tel. +44 20 7224 0028 www.texture-restaurant.co.uk - Krug and Pol Roger Winston Churchill by the class Flûte Gramercy 40 East 20th Street New York City Tel. +1 212 529 7870 - Champagne Happy Hours and live music The French Laundry 6640 Washington Street Yountville, CA www.frenchlaundry.com/ - Great service with a wine list as long as a book. Meadowood 900 Meadowood Lane St. Helena, CA 94574 Tel. +1 707 963 3646 www.meadowood.com - House champagne is Krug Clos du Mesnil 1996 The Champagne Bar at St Pancras St Pancras International Pancras Rd NW1 2QP London Tel.+44 20 7843 4250 -The longest champagne bar in London. SOUTH AFRICA Mount Nelson Hotel 76 Orange Street 8001 Cape Town www.mountnelson.co.za - 100-year-old Mount Nelson Planet Champagne Bar and its terrace gives visitors an excuse to dress up and enjoy a glass of bubbly. Order caviar or oysters to complement your drink. Death and Co East Village 433 E 6th St New York, NY 10079 Tel. +1 212 3880882 www.deathandcompany.com - They make everything here from champagne. Napoleon's Lounge At Paris 3655 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 Tel. +1 702 946 7000 -Napoleon´s Lounge offers a mind-boggling variety of more than 100 champagnes The Bubble Lounge San Francisco 714 Montgomery Street San Francisco, CA 94111 www.bubblelounge.com -The Bubble Lounge is an elegant lounge serving over 300 champagnes. 113 San Francisco Champagne Brunch Cruise San Francisco, CA www.viator.com - This two-hour San Francisco Champagne Brunch Cruise offers the perfect mix of gourmet dining and champagne. Departs from Pier 3 on the Embarcadero. SWEDEN Bollinger Champagnebar Hotel Stureplan Birger Jarlsgatan 24 10216 Stockholm Tel. +46 8 440 66 00 www.hotelstureplan.se - Great selection of Bollinger PALAIS COBURG -- VIENNA, AUSTRALIA Six wine cellars on three floors combining 60,000 bottles of the finest wines, the Palais Coburg is no. 1 wine hotel in the world. The billionaire owner, Mr Pühringer, has taken his passion for wines to the depths that should delight the Fine and rare wine lovers the world over. He has created a luxurious 5-star hotel of 35 suites serving the rarest wines in its top class restaurants. Grounded on the defense wall of the emperor's city, this palace's architecture spans six centuries. The patrician rooms of the 19th century Coburg-Gotha residence house the Michelin star restaurant, Restaurant Coburg. With a marvellous champagne brunch served every Sunday at the Garden Pavillion and a Philip Starck designed Dom Pérignon Lounge hidden in the cellars, it is no wonder the FINE team is always thoroughly content at Palais Coburg. ____________________________________ Address: Coburgbastei 4 A-1010 Innere Stadt Vienna Tel. +43 1 51818 Web: www.palais-coburg.com Rec Stmen Fi n e L i f eo m y l e d s

114 When you think you have it all, along comes a Princess, and she certainly creates a dream for those who are graced with her presence. She is elegant, refined, and stunningly beautiful. Her form is sleek, cool and fluid and she makes a majestic statement, which creates desire and passion to be able to say...."I have a Princess". Text: Thomas Barbieri

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The look, touch and feel of the motor yachts are timeless, elegant and impeccably built, incorporating the most technologically advanced muscle that propels and powers the vessels across the seas. Welcome onboard the très luxe portfolio Be creative and innovative, aim for product excellence, bolster the image of our brands with passionate determination, act as entrepreneurs, strive to be best in all we do. Those are the five distinct mission values embedded and employed by over 77,000 people worldwide, whose task is to nurture the broadest portfolio of luxury brands owned by the LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) consortium. The Paris based LVMH's Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, often referred to as the Lord of Luxury, owns over 47% of LVMH through his investment company Groupe Arnault SAS, which had a market capitalisation of over $40 billion in 2008. In mid-2008, Arnault acquired control of one of the UK's oldest luxury motorboat manufacturers, Princess Yachts International plc for £200 million. LVHM is the holding company and one of its oldest brands is wine producer Château d'Yquem, which dates its origins back to 1593. The group was formed after mergers brought together champagne producer Moët & Chandon and leading cognac producer Hennessy. In 1987, Arnault managed to merge the luxury fashion house Louis Vuitton under the same umbrella and this trend inspired other luxury brands to follow suit. Albeit, LVMH leads the luxury goods industry with its broad, highly identifiable and established labels. The acquisition of Princess Yachts makes good business sense and anchors LVMH with balance and ballast to the portfolio of handbags, watches, perfumes and champagne...and now yachts. 117 Pioneering power, precision and passion Established in 1965, the Princess name has become synonymous to many with all that is finest in motor yacht design. Based in Plymouth in the UK, every Princess craft is the result of a rigorous and uncompromising approach to every detail, in both design and manufacture. The look, touch and feel of the motor yachts are timeless, elegant and impeccably built, incorporating the most technologically advanced muscle that propels and powers the vessels across the seas. Princess motor yachts are a blend of traditional craftsmanship, cutting edge expertise and equipment that set new standards in performance, sea-keeping, comfort, and safety. The modified deep V hull incorporates propeller tunnels for improved efficiency and forward thrust, whilst also reducing draft. Princess has moulded spray rails, which roll water away, allowing the deck to stay drier at high speeds, thus reducing frictional resistance. The revolutionary Fi n e L i f e S t y l e

118 curved chine and optimal dead-rise at the transom ensure a softer ride and stable tracking in a variety of sea conditions. Whether running at speed or within the confines of a busy marina, the yachts are designed to be responsive and easy to handle. Electronic engine controls, power-assisted steering and powerful bow thrusters enable maneuvering with absolute precision. weight savings can be achieved. Each piece of cabinetry and timber fixture is protected and lacquered at least seven times and hand-rubbed between coatings for a deeper and more lustrous shine. Setting the standard Princess motor yachts are built on heritage and an uncompromising approach to design and manufacturing, combined to create some of the most dynamically and technologically advanced motor yachts in production today. One could say they are tomorrow's yachts, today. And a Princess stimulates both heart and mind to desire ownership...or even be a distinguished guest onboard. On the water, there is no mistaking a Princess, since she is instantly recognisable for her graceful line, presence and timeless elegance. Undeniable presence and character Clean, uncluttered lines give a Princess an undeniable and distinguished presence. Each boat constructed is completed to a personal specification and the calm, elegant, fluid interiors with comfortable furnishings and exquisite details complement and sustain the luxury, contentment and tranquility for all onboard...even for those with the most discerning taste. LVMH seeks and demands quality and attention to detail, which the Princess meets and exceeds for each yacht it delivers. The meticulously crafted interiors blend a delicate choice of the finest materials to create a harmonious look that is clean, cool and contemporary. This could be coined the `Princess character´ Computer-aided . design (CAD) software is used to identify nonstructural areas of furniture where efficiency and Size maters in meters Yachts, both M/Y motor yacht and S/Y sailing yacht, above 100 meters (328 feet) are becoming increasingly more common. These yachts of today typically can have four-to-six decks above the water line and two below. The very largest yachts have begun to incorporate such features as helicopter hangars, indoor swimming pools, miniature

119 Underlying the luxurious and elegant looks of a Princess are pioneering advances in hull design and construction to achieve higher speeds in safety and comfort no matter what the weather conditions. Fi n e L i f e S t y l e

Princess stimulates both heart and mind to desire ownership... or even be a distinguished guest onboard. 120 submarines, several smaller water sports and entertainment vehicles, and a host of sub and supra security systems. To distinguish the elite among luxury yachts, the increasing evolution of "small" super yachts has been coined Mega Yacht and Giga Yacht. Although the latest Princess 95 M/Y does not qualify as a Mega or Giga yacht, she most certainly packs a punch on the sea and in any marina. She is 29 meters long, weighs 94 tons, has 2 X 2,400 horsepower, and remarkably travels at speeds of up to 31 knots. Although the sea is vast and big, the Princess 95 provides enormous space, luxury, comfort, and safety for the most selective customers. Every detail onboard has been carefully studied, assessed and analysed for sociable and comfortable surroundings. For example, the galley is positioned forward on the port side, open to both the wheelhouse and its breakfast dinette, creating a discreet yet convivial eating area. Optional seating arrangements are available. The standard set-up is a pair of L-shaped sofas butting up to a central coffee table on the port side, giving it a `club-lounge´ look. Below deck, the staterooms and twin cabin are in line with the Princess look, uncluttered, elegant, fresh and calm with judicious use of lighting. From the opulent pocket-sprung beds, to the state-of-theart entertainment systems to the private breakfast area in the master stateroom, every need and feature is considered. The vast flybridge provides a perfect location to unwind onboard and excellent helm position. The U-shaped seating, broad sunpad and fully equipped bar are standard. The flybridge can also accommodate an optional spa bath and a rigid hardtop. With meticulous attention to the finest of details, the fluid blend of contemporary refinement and effortless cruising capability place the Princess 95 M/Y in a class of her own. Perhaps we will eventually encounter a "Me/Y" Bernard or a "G/Y" Arnault in the near future on a Princess, as she continues to grow.

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WHAT IS IT ABOUT SCANDINAVIAN LUXURY THAT IS SO FRESH? Is it the beautiful woodwork, the luxurious leather upholstery or the pleasantly quiet passenger compartment? Or is it the numerous little details designed to appeal just to you? Even more, the Volvo S80 Executive purges the air before you step in ­ its inside atmosphere is the cleanest in the world of motoring. Aesthetically, the front seats are the best and most comfortable available with air-conditioning that keeps your body cool even on the hottest summer days. Volvo's Premium Sound audio system is one of the best ever installed in a car. Yet another touch of luxury is the refrigerator placed between the back seats and a pair of crystal wine glasses reserved exclusively for the back-seat passengers. Enjoy the highest standard of quality and the luxury of superior travel. 122 F I N E

www.volvocars.com Fi n e Po r t u g a l THE NEW VOLVO S80. 123 F I N E V O L V O I

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