A M E R I C A N F I N E W I N E No. M A G A Z I N E 2 US $14 .9 9 · CAN $14 .9 9 · AU $15.9 9 312 F I N E W I N E S TA S T E D US $14.99 CAN $14.99 Printed in Finland C h â t e a u L a f i t e 1 8 1 2 ­ 2 0 0 3 · J e a n Le ó n · Fr e n c h L a u n d r y · D a r i u s h · B o r d e a u x 1 9 9 0 · B r i o n i · B r o a d b e n t G A J A & A N T I N O R I

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PASSIONNÉ D'EXCEPTION Academia Triple Complication - GMT3 date display on either side of the hour circle. This arrangement located on the lower plaque of the dial is completed by the indication of a second time zone by means of a hand. This contrasts with the upper level of the dial, on which the bridge supports the disc displaying the Day & Night function. The systems beats to the rhythm of the DW 2041 self-winding mechanical calibre protected by its case with a bezel and middle part sculpted with the "Imperial Columns" motif exclusive to the brand. The Academia Triple Complication - GMT3 will be manufactured in strictly limited and exclusive series. Behind its resolutely contemporary visage, this Academia GMT, Day & Night and Dissociated Date timepiece asserts its innovative character in the unusual harmony of the display of the many functions featured on the different versions of the model and the materials used in its manufacture. In addition to the indications of the hours, minutes and the small seconds hand which shows that the movement is working, this creation features a dissociated M A N U FAC T U R E D E W I T T - G E N E VA - S W I T Z E R L A N D - W W W. D E W I T T. C H 5 W A T C H E S

M I L L E N A RY C O L L E C T I O N INITIATION INTO THE CULTURE OF TIME PINK GOLD WATCH WITH CENTRE SECONDS AND DATE DISPLAY, EXCLUSIVE SELFWINDING AUDEMARS PIGUET MOVEMENT. ALSO AVAILABLE IN WHITE GOLD.

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F I N E PAGE 14 Potrait of K i J dd G P i f Kevin Judd PAGE 26 Châ Château L fite & Vintages Lafi Vi 1812­2003 PAGE 50 Modern Italy PAGE 92 Th French Laundry The F hL d PAGE 100 Laurent-Perrier Grande Siècle PAGE 134 Luxury wine cellars FINEPARTNERS: GRAFF DIAMONDS p. 2­3 · DEWITT p. 4­5 · SALVATORE FERRAGAMO p. 6­7 · AUDEMARS PIGUET p. 8­9 · STEINWAY & SONS p. 24­25 · VINI-RARI/RAREST-WINES p. 33 · Palais Goburg p. 34 · IWC p. 72­73 · FERRETTI p. 98­99 · CHRISTIE'S p. 107 · PAULSON RARE WINE p. 132­133 · WINE CONNOISSEURS CLUB p. 141 · FINE WINE BAR p. 142­143 · BVLGARI p. 154­155 · ANDERSON & SHEPPARD p. 166­167 10 F I N E

F I N E PAGE 74 Bordeaux 1990-vintage PAGE 144 Jean León and Marilyn PAGE 156 B i i d James B d Brioni and J Bond 12 14 23 PAGE 78 FINEEDITORIAL FINE FINEGALLERY FINE FINENUIKKI FINE FINEESTATE FINE FINEPERSONALITY FINE FINEESTATE FINE FINEITALY FINE FINEVINTAGE FINE FINEVINTAGE FINE FINELARSSON FINE FINERESTAURANT FINE FINEESTATE FINE FINEDINING FINE FINETASTINGS FINE FINECOLLECTING FINE FINELEGEND FINE FINENUIKKI FINE FINELIFE FINE Editorial Kevin Judd ­ Portrait of a winemaker Renowned label Château Lafite ­ The secret of eternal youth Interesting wine personality Mythical winery Italy's four musketeers of wine 1990 Bordeaux ­ Rich and profitable The decades of Italy's top wines 1900­2005 Andreas Larsson ­ Fine Argentine? The French Laundry ­ Source of pleasure Grand Siècle ­ In praise of enigmatic women Dining reviews FINE tasting notes Luxury wine cellars Jean León ­ From rags to riches through dreams From the shadows of the greats Brioni ­ The secret of James Bond chic Italy´s best vintages 1900­2005 26 34 42 50 74 78 90 PAGE 108 Fine Dining 92 100 108 110 134 144 152 PAGE 110 Fi and Fine d Rare tastings 156 11 C O N T E N T S Fi n e C o n t e n t s

F I N E W r i t e r s FINEMAGAZINES KON E BU IL D IN G KE IL ASATAM A 3 , 0 2 1 5 0 E S P O O , F I NL A ND WWW.FINE-MAGAZINES.COM Tel. +358 9 2510 7222 · Fax: +358 9 2510 7100 Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki pekka.nuikki@fine-magazines.com Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen juha.lihtonen@fine-magazines.com Deputy Editor Anne Lepola anne.lepola@fine-magazines.com Publishing Editor Meri Kukkavaara meri@fine-magazines.com Editorial adviser Essi Avellan MW essi.avellan@fine-magazines.com Creative Director Pekka Nuikki Art Directors Teemu Timperi teemu.timperi@fine-magazines.com Samuli Ollikainen samuli.ollikainen@fine-magazines.com Senior Advisers Seija Nummijoki, Mari Tyster, Juha Laaksonen, Risto Perttunen, Eero Saloranta, Martti Viitamäki Contributors Perry Simms, Juha Jormanainen, Pascal Kuzniewski, David Passarello, Philip Tuck MW, Sigi Hiss, Jerome Bouix Photographer Pekka Nuikki Publishing Director Jarmo Hietaranta jarmo.hietaranta@fine-magazines.com Executive Marketing Director Mika Tuunainen mika.tuunainen@fine-magazines.com Marketing and Sales / USA Jesse Weisz jesse.weisz@fine-magazines.com Subscriptions subs@fine-magazines.com +358 (0)9 2510 7222 Price Subscription 4 issues Europe 75,00 / rest of the world 105,00 Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-Chief Pekka Nuikki, founder and editor-in-chief of FINE-magazines, is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines. He has published almost twenty international wine and art books, among them In Vino Veritas, a book on investing in wines, Drinking History on fine wines and their vintages between 1870­1970, a book about the Château Mouton-Rothschild ­Wine and Art 1924­2003 and most recently a book about the best German white wines. His next book will be all about the 100 Most Important Red Wines of the World. Mr Nuikki is also an award-winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and he has worked as creative director of advertising agency group. He is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven hole-in-ones. Juha Lihtonen Managing Editor Juha Lihtonen is the Editor of Scandinavian, European and American FINE Wine Magazine and manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was selected as the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Mr Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, as well as the wine buyer of a major cruising line. He has written books on combining wine and food. Besides his day job, Mr Lihtonen studies for the Master of Wine qualification. Essi Avellan MW Contributor Essi Avellan MW is the first Master of Wine from Finland and the second ever from the Nordic countries. She is the Editor of FINE Champagne Magazine. Ms Avellan was awarded the Tim Derouet Memorial Award and the Lily Bollinger Medal for excellence in the Master of Wine examination. Ms Avellan contributes to a number of newspapers and international wine and food magazines. Additionally Ms Avellan judges at several wine competitions. Her expertise area and passion is champagne. Jan-Erik Paulson Contributor Jan-Erik Paulson is one of Europe's leading authorities on mature wines, specialising in Bordeaux and Austria. Mr Paulson has been internationally renowned for his top tastings for 30 years and for his Rare-Wine.com online shop. He is a passionate golfer and lives in Germany with his family. Andreas Larsson Contributor The best sommelier in the World in 2007, the best sommelier in Europe in 2004 and the best sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2002. Mr Larsson has worked as a sommelier in the best restaurants in Stockholm and won the Wine International Sommelier Challenge in 2005. He is a member of the Grand Jury Européen and has occupied many wine juror positions around the world. Mr Larsson is also a wine writer and educator. Andrew Caillard MW Contributor Andrew Caillard MW is a specialist wine auctioneer and wine author. In 1993 he became the fifth Australian to pass the Master of Wine examination winning the highly prized Madame Bollinger Medal for excellence in wine tasting. As an author and wine reviewer Mr Caillard has written widely on Australian wine and wine investment. Mr Caillard is widely respected in the industry and is committed to the advancement of Australian fine wine on the world market. He is a member of the Australian Advisory Board for The Institute of Masters of Wine. Natalie Maclean Contributor Natalie MacLean works as a wine writer, speaker and judge. An accredited sommelier, she is a member of the National Capital Sommelier Guild in Canada, the Wine Writers Circle and several French wine societies. Her book Red, White and Drunk All Over was recently chosen the Best Wine Literature Book in the English language at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Ms Maclean has won numerous awards for her food and drink writing; she has been named the World's Best Wine Writer. Tim Hall Contributor Tim Hall is Director of Scala School of Wine in London, founded in 1995. Scala specialises in wine and food corporate events with a client base in the financial and legal sectors of the City of London. They also design and lead corporate visits to Champagne and Bordeaux. Tim is a keen (but amateur !) cook and an active student of restaurant cuisine. Stuart George Contributor Cover photograph: Pekka Nuikki Printing House Libris Oy www.fine-magazines.com Publisher Oy Fine Publishing Helsinki Ltd KONE Building/Keilasatama 3 02150 Espoo Finland © Copyright: European Fine Wine Magazine Ltd ISSN 1797-0636 Fine Magazines does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent to us without request. The opinions of contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to the opinions of the publisher or editorial staff. We withhold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in the European Fine Wine Magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. Stuart George is an awarded English freelance wine writer, who is known for his writing for The World of Fine Wine. Stuart studied English and European Literature at The University of Warwick. He has worked as a wine merchant, travelling widely in different wine regions, before turning to wine writing. In his free time Stuart listens to music, plays guitar and follows cricket. 12 F I N E

F I N E June 20, 2008 Yet again as one issue of FINE has gone to print, one feels privileged and enriched by memorable experiences. In making the magazine, it has been a joy and honor to collect experiences of the wines we write about. With this issue, it again means numerous top tastings, where we have enjoyed wines such as 1945 Château Haut-Brion, 1985 Sassicaia, and 1974 Heitz Martha's Vineyard, not to mention the big Pétrus vertical, where twenty of the best vintages of Pétrus were on offer. Without a tastings a wine, it would be impossible to write anything personal about it. Many factors influence tasting experiences. Knowledge about the background of wines is, of course, essential. But above all the moment and the company in which the wines are tasted create for the tasting experience a meaning which is remembered. Indeed, it has been a pleasure to taste wines mentioned in this magazine together with our readers. In order for us to offer our readers personal experiences about wines appearing on the pages of our magazine, we created the FINE Wine Bar concept, which offers the best mature wines in the world by a glass. Within a year, these bars can be found in major cities all over the world. In order for us to offer our readers an even more personal opportunity, we will organise throughout the year FINE & Rare tastings to which all of our subscribers will receive an advance invitation. The first of these events was the big Pétrus vertical organised in Helsinki. The next one is the 'Vintage 1961' tasting at the end of August, where twenty of that vintage's most legendary wines all the way from Dom Pérignon to Latour and Hermitage La Chapelle will be on offer. You can find updated information on these events as well as FINE Wine Bars on our web site (www.fine-magazines.com). In this issue, unique experiences will take you to Italy and California. In Italy, we find out what expectations the boundarybreaking legendary producers Piero Antinori, Angelo Gaja, Luciano Sandrone, and Paolo De Marchi have about the future. In California, we visit The French Laundry, one of the top restaurants in the world, and find out what makes Brioni the most sought-after brand of suits. Have an enjoyable trip! Ta s t e o f f i n e Juha Lihtonen Managing Editor 13 E D I T O R I A L Fi n e E d i t o r i a l

P ORT R A I T OF A WI N E MAKER 14 F I N E

He uses photography to conjure up amazingly beautiful images of viticulture and the landscapes associated with it. The photographs show scenes of vineyards and the people working in them in which the colours and shapes harmoniously and intriguingly merge. Images in which our industrial world, with its bustle and endlessly long working days, seems to have all but disappeared. Its place has been taken by glimpses of a time when people still appreciated nature and the life force it gave them. Images which give the viewer a moment to breathe. He is also the man who has created one of the world's best known Sauvignon Blancs ­ Cloudy Bay. Kevin Judd was born and spent his early childhood in England. When he was nine his family moved to Australia for work. Kevin's best childhood memories are the times he spent with his father in the darkroom working with black and white prints. Having studied wine production at the famous Roseworthy University, he started as a winemaker at Chateau Reynalla in 1982. However, Kevin never really felt at home in Australia, and after several attempts at doing this and that, in 1985 he moved to New Zealand, where he was hired as a winemaker at the recently established Cloudy Bay vineyard. During the first year Cloudy Bay had no buildings or cultivated land of its own. The grapes were bought in from elsewhere and the wine was made on rented premises. Kevin remembers his sole contribution to the first year's production was made over the phone. Nowadays Kevin Judd is one of the most acclaimed winemakers in New Zealand. Thanks to the success of Cloudy Bay he has brought the country's wine industry to the attention of the entire world. When his Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 1996 was named the world's best white wine by the highly respected American magazine Wine Spectator, the vineyard's success story really got started. Today the Cloudy Bay vineyard extends for 45 hectares and its annual production is in excess of 600 000 bottles. Cloudy Bay is located in the Wairau Valley in Marlborough province. This unique wine-growing region enjoys a cool, maritime climate, where the sun ripens the grapes for longer than anywhere else in New Zealand. The vineyard is named after the bay at the end of the Wairau Valley, which Captain Cook named Cloudy Bay in 1770. Although Kevin has gone around with a camera slung around his neck since he was just a little boy, he never considered photography as a profession until 1990. That was when he met the world-famous wine photographer Mick Rock in London. When he saw Kevin's portfolio Rock immediately took him under his wing and introduced him to the Cephas Picture Library. Cephas is the largest agency in its field and for years has been illustrating the pages of all the world's most prodigious wine magazines, such as Decanter and Wine Spectator. With Mike Rock's encouragement Kevin assembled a collection of his best photos. This formed the basis of his first book, The Colour of Wine. In recent years he has illustrated several books on wine, of which perhaps the most visually stunning is Keith Stewart's Taste of the Earth. Kevin spends most of his time these days travelling from one country to another marketing the Cloudy Bay wines. His future dream is his own small winery where he can be left alone to concentrate on growing his favourite grapes, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, and on his beloved wine photography. The future will tell how things go with Kevin but at least it will not be a lack of talent that prevents his dreams from coming true. With Mike Rock's encouragement Kevin assembled a collection of his best photos. This formed the basis of his first book, The Colour of Wine. 15 K e v i n J u d d Fi n e G a l l e r y text: Pekk a Nu ik ki photos: K evi n Ju dd

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Cloudy Bay vineyards in Marlborough, New Zealand. MOTUKAWA VINEYARD IN NEW ZEALAND KEVIN 17 K e v i n J u d d JUDD Fi n e g a l l e r y

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Catena Zapata´s Adrianna vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina. FROSTY MORNING IN BRANCOTT VALLEY KEVIN 19 K e v i n J u d d JUDD Fi n e g a l l e r y

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SUNSET AT HAWKE´S BAY, NEW ZEALAND Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Cru vineyard in Alsace, France. KEVIN 21 K e v i n J u d d JUDD Fi n e g a l l e r y

Reference table for the 100-point system vs. the british 20-point system 50 60 07 70 8 9 10 80 11 12 13 14 85 15 16 90 17 18 96 19 100 20 Th e F I N E way t o e va l u at e w i n e Tasting wine is a personal experience and therefore always subjective. Experience, palate, personal taste preference, and the personality of the taster play major roles in assessment of wine. In reality, tasting wine is an interaction with it. Therefore, it is significant to know who the tasters are, and what are their preferences and experience of tasting the wines concerned. The magazine's experts evaluate the wines based on their personal views and experiences. That is why the initials of the taster are given in connection with each tasting note. The year markings in each evaluation refer to the most recent tasting time / the future lasting potential. Key to our points 100p · Sheer perfection to all senses by every parameter of wine quality ­ True nature's gift. 97­99p · A near perfect experience. The wine and its history are of a unique genre. As a tasting experience the wine is extraordinary and unforgettable: Impeccable harmony, complexity and one-ofa-kind personality. 93­96p · An outstanding wine, which is produced with the highest standards of quality, and which gives a balanced and unique experience when enjoyed. 91­93p · An excellent wine that has a refined style, balanced structure and nuanced finesse. 88­90p · A good wine, close to excellent. Harmonious but lacks the complexity and personality of an excellent wine. 80­87p · An average wine with less character, intensity, structure, and elegance. 70­79p · A modest and straightforward wine lacking life and harmony. 50­69p · An almost un-drinkable, empty wine. Pekka Nuikki (PN) Essi Avellan MW (EA) Juha Lihtonen (JL) Wi n e p o i n t s All wines evaluated by FINE are awarded points. The rating of the wines is done using the American 100 points scale. The objective is to give the reader an understanding of the quality of the wines evaluated by FINE as well as rate the drinkability of the wine. It needs bearing in mind that our rating differs a great deal, for example, from the rating system used by Robert Parker or the Wine Spectator. The number of points is based on the wine's enjoyability on the day of tasting. We do not give additional points for the wine's future potential, and base our assessment only on its present quality and ability to give pleasure now, both physically and mentally. As the potential of the wine is not taken into account in the points, we will give estimates about future potential in the tasting notes. We taste wine blind, semi-blind or openly. The used method is mentioned in the tasting report. We also mention the date of tasting. In the case of mature wines we mention when the bottle was opened/decanted and how long the wine kept in the glass before starting to lose its character. R e a d i n g o u r ta s t i n g n o t e s Style and focus of wine assessment varies by the individual. Our group of experts has agreed on the most important parameters of the evaluations. We focus on describing the personality and essence of the wine: its acidity, fruit, tannin, structure, depth, and length, all of the factors that affect the wine's balance ­ and balance in our shared opinion is the most important factor in the quality of a wine. Auctions: www.tcwc.com The Chicago Wine Company www.ackerwines.com/liveauction.cfm Acker Merrall & Condit New York auction www.brentwoodwine.com Brentwood Wine Co. online rare wine auction house from US Oregon featuring unusual and interesting wines www.hdhwine.com/content.cfm/auctions Hart Davis Hart Wine Company is offering wines of impeccable provenance from private cellars around the world www.magnumwines.com Rare and highly sought after auction wines including magnums www.christies.com/departments/win/overview.asp Christie's auction house with links to different locations www.sothebys.com/app/live/dept/DeptGlobal.jsp?dept_id=142 Sotheby's London auction house wine department www.winebid.com The largest Internet auction for fine and rare wines www.winecommune.com/auctionindex1.cfm WineCommune.com - the place to buy and sell fine wine online www.butterfields.com Bonhams & Butterfield's auction in US and Bonhams wine department in England www.morrellwine.com Wine store and auction www.winecommune.com Wine auction online www.rare-wine.com Excellent online store with flexible service providing broad range of mature wines from the previous century. Buys and sells wines from private people. www.classic-wines.net Online store for mature wines Wh e r e t o b u y w i n e Online stores: www.champersdirect.co.uk Luxury champagne online sales www.bordeauxindex.com Fine Bordeaux wine online sales www.chateauonline.co.uk Wine shop with great range of young and mature wines from various regions www.2020wines.com Top wines from major wine regions from 1808 to 2000, including futures www.bensonfinewines.co.uk Special stores for fine and rare wines mainly from private cellars dating back to the 1800s www.nickollsandperks.co.uk Nickolls and Perks have been fine wine dealers since 1797 www.oddbins.com Wide selection of top wines www.nicolas.com France's largest wine store chain www.bbr.co.uk Berry Brothers and Rudd, legendary online store www.bibendum.co.uk Great selection of French wines www.weinco.at High-quality Austrian wine store www.spanishwinesonline.co.uk Good selection of Spanish wines also from oldvintages www.wyliefinewines.co.uk Peter Wylie's fine wine online provides great collections of mature, fine and rare wines from 1800s www.frw.co.uk Online brokers of fine and rare wines Others: www.dunbarfinewine.co.uk Full investment service including sourcing and cellaring 22 F I N E

F I N E Renowned label W hen browsing a leading women's magazine I suddenly notice a characterisation of myself: "A wine will get Nuikki's approval on- A renowned label is a promise of uniqueness: it is standard practice in the wine industry to price products higher if they are individualistic. There are numerous wines which are only produced in small quantities, and you need to wait years to even get onto their subscriber lists. At the top of these lists are usually people who are persistent, who have willingness and an actual need for these types of wines, and who have enough money to buy the best and the most expensive products in life. A renowned label arouses feelings, and feelings can be seen to be the most important factors when listing items in their order of value. The FEELING which arises when you start the engine of a Ferrari or when you dress in a custom Brioni suit­this feeling makes people want to spend limitless amounts of money. When you feel that you have bought the best quality, you cannot question the experience or the buzz you get. Those of us who buy feelings are often called materialists. I don't consider myself to be one of them. If the basic idea of materialism is that everything is just material and nothing matters, then the feelings resulting from buying things are also considered to be only material. Houses, cars, clothes and wines become disposable, and can be easily substituted for something else that doesn't mean anything either. Thus, the problem is not that we think material to be the measurement of wealth, but that we love it too little. Falling in love is easy, but loving is difficult... I don't think that appreciating renowned wines or buying Brioni suits means you are a materialist. I believe it's the only way to protest against materialism, to see the uniqueness of things, to get attached to them, and give them life. This is when they stop being meaningless disposable goods ­material. ly if it has a renowned label," the magazine claims. Do I really think that way? Do I appreciate a wine only if it has an expensive and renowned name on its label? A "label drinker" is the wine industry's own cheeky expression of a person who has no insight or sense of taste of their own. Is that who I am? The claim that high price makes a wine more desirable can be considered to be at least partly true. But does a high price also guarantee a quality experience? What kind of promise does a renowned label actually hold? A renowned label is a promise of a unique blend of basic elements, where raw materials which have been refined over centuries, craftsmanship and know-how inherited from generation to another, the uniqueness of the soil, and­of course­the high price, meet. M Pekka Nuikki Editor-in-chief y love for quality wines isn't based on their status, faultlessness or their price. It is based on­that's right­a renowned label, which guarantees tons of individualism, uniqueness, quality and the feeling that all these things create together. You must embrace and enjoy quality wines personally. Only then do the stories, events and history associated with them turn into personal experiences. An expensive label doesn't make you always happy, but it does arouse feelings. the unbearable lightness of sharing 23 N U I K K I Fi n e Nu i k k i

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the secret of eternal youth text and photos: Pekka Nuikki t the end of 1756, Duc de Richelieu, the nephew of Cardinal Richelieu, founder of the French Academy, returned home to Paris victorious from a long military campaign. He had, among other exploits, taken Minorca from the British. King Louis XV rewarded his achievements by appointing him Governor of Bordeaux in perpetuity. Duc de Richelieu, a life long lover of the wines of Burgundy, did not rate Bordeaux wines very highly. So he took to Bordeaux the best Chambertin and Clos de Vougeot wines from Burgundy for himself and his entourage. This did not please the high-ranking vintners of Bordeaux, and they sneakily got Richelieu to drink their wines with Burgundy labels on the bottles. When Richelieu's own personal physician introduced him to the Château Lafite wines, saying they were an elixir that gave a man vigour, his taste in wine began to gradually lean in the direction of Bordeaux. After he had been Governor for 25 years Duc de Richelieu received an invitation from the King to go to Paris. When at the palace reception the King kindly remarked that he looked 25 years younger than when he was appointed governor, Richelieu solemnly declared: ­Your Majesty, I must tell you that I have discovered the secret of eternal youth ­ Château Lafite. 27 B O R D E A U X Fi n e Es tat e

Château Lafite ­ the secret of eternal youth Number one for the king's mistress Richelieu's legendary reply quickly changed the drinking habits of the French Court, and the wine of Burgundy disappeared from the tables of the King or the nobility in general. The King's mistress, Madame Pompadour, someone with immense powers of persuasion at the Court, also developed a love for the Lafite wines, and it was with her influence that the wines of Bordeaux, and Lafite in particular, became the preferred beverage at Court­along with sweet champagne­for decades afterwards. This had special significance in 1855 when Bordeaux's Association of Traders faced a difficult task. The French Emperor Napoleon III had asked them to classify Bordeaux's best wines and rate them in order of excellence for the Paris World Fair. After lengthy debates and much quarrelling it was decided to rely on a wine's reputation and the price paid for it on the market in the previous 150 years to serve as the main selection criteria. So the more acclaimed and expensive the wine, the higher it would rank in the classification. The final classification divided into five quality grades, for which a total of 61 wines were selected. The wines in each quality grade were then placed in order. Although the entire classification process took weeks, it was not hard to choose a winner. Château Lafite was unanimously selected for the number one position, which it officially still holds today. yards in Bordeaux, that the reputations of Latour and Lafite as first-rate wines started to spread outside the region. The Ségur family already owned numerous vineyards, such as Château Calon-Ségur, but they only managed to acquire the very best through marriage. First it was Château Lafite in 1670, when Jacques de Ségur married its owner, the widow Jeanne de Gasgin, and then in 1697 Château Latour, when Jacques' son, Alexandre de Ségur, married the heiress to the Latour estate, MarieThéresa de Glauzelin. Château Lafite remained in the possession of the Ségurs almost up to the time of the French Revolution. de Pichard, losing his head under the blade of the guillotine. After several changes of ownership the Rothschild family acquired the estate at auction in 1868. The purchaser was Baron James de Rothschild, France's wealthiest man, who had made his fortune constructing a railway network for the country and founding banks. Because he was not especially interested in red wines or tending the Lafite vineyard, his more cynical critics thought he had acquired the estate for other reasons­the family lived in Paris where it was very fashionable to own a Premier Cru vineyard, particularly if it had the same name as one's home address in the city. The Rothschilds happened to live on Rue Lafitte. The Baron, however, only bought the vineyard as an investment. Its price of 4.8 million francs was equal to the yield from just eight vintages. Marrying into top wines Wines had been successfully grown in the best vineyards of Pauillac, Château Lafite and Château Latour, since the Middle Ages. But it was only towards the end of the 17th century, when through marriage the Ségur family began to take over the vine- An investment The owners of Château Lafite have almost always been some of France's most eminent families. But during the Revolution, in 1794, the vineyard became the property of the Republic, its owner at the time, Nicolas-Pierre

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Château Lafite ­ the secret of eternal youth He always pointed out to his sons that they were bankers, not farmers. The Baron did not even visit Lafite once, as he died soon after he made the purchase. His three sons inherited the estate and since then the Rothschild family has successfully managed it. Vintages­good and bad Over the years Château Lafite has had to struggle to retain its status as the foremost Premier Cru wine. Because it is more 'subtle' and less massive than other Premier Crus, it also seems to be most susceptible to fluctuations in quality, and there are less desirable years. In the period between 1961 and 1976 in particular, the quality of the wine reached a very noticeable low. In the best years­1961, 1964, 1970, and 1975 ­the vineyard produced wines which did not nearly come up to best Premier Cru quality. This is also conspicuous today in the low prices these wines fetch at auction. It is only since 1976 that the quality of the wines on the estate has steadily improved. A very clear indication of that is the 1976 vintage itself. Lafite is regarded as one of the best wines that year. Actually, even before 1961 the quality of the Lafite wines was no- Delicate flavour The Château Lafite estate run by the Rothschilds is, with its 100 hectares of cultivated land, the largest of the main Pauillac vineyards. It is located in the highest part of the area and the view from its château, with its conical towers that appear on the label, takes in the banks of the River Gironde, which flows nearby. The wines are a blend of four different varieties of grape ­ Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. Lafite matures slightly earlier than other Premier Cru wines in the region on account of the generous amounts of Merlot used, and it is this that also makes the wine more delicate and subtle than those wines which are completely dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. ticeably uneven. From the start of the century up until the 1960s the habit was always to bottle Lafite straight from the barrel, barrel by barrel, whenever the other jobs on the estate allowed. This sometimes prolonged the bottling process by up to a year and caused the wine quality and structure to vary considerably. The best years prior to the 60s were 1953 and 1959. In the top year of 1945 Lafite is very variable in quality and often disappointing, and the same goes for 1961. Now in the 21st century these major troughs in the wine quality are part of history. The future also looks sunny for the whole of the Bordeaux region. Global warming and big financial investments in wine cultivation and cellars have resulted in very high quality wines, even in poorer years, and in the best ­ 2000, 2003 and 2005 ­ in quite unique, true wines of the future. Total elegance When today I think of the difficult choice the merchants of Bordeaux had to make in 1855, it is almost impossible and even wrong to try and rank Premier Cru wines in order of quality. At this level it is more a matter of the style the wine represents. By claiming that a Lafite is better than a Latour or that a Mouton is better than a Margaux one is guilty of comparing two things which are not the same and simply not comparable. In fact, the only possible point of comparison is how well the vineyards have succeeded in living up to expectations over their long histories and how well they have done in different years. Of the five Premier Cru wines in the region, Château Lafite to my mind has managed to produce the year's best wine in many of the top years. The times I have spent in the company of a 1934, 1953, 1959, 1982 and 1986 have been unforgettable. And it was then that I always remembered how many wine critics fondly describe Lafite as 'the perfection of elegance'.

C h â t e au L a f i t e v i n tag e s 1812 Château Lafite (Pauillac) 96p 2006/now x1 D 15 min / G 30 min A château-bottled bottle of 375 ml in good condition. The colour of the wine and the level were both excellent. Decanted for 15 minutes. Held well in glass for approximately 45 minutes.The colour was surprisingly deep dark red. Sound and open nose with intense fruit flavours. Nose shows roasted coffee, blackcurrant leaves, herbs, and chocolate. Very seductive. Moderately high acidity together with ripe, refined and elegant tannins forms a firm structure to the wine. Acidity and tannins form a balanced chewy taste that lasts for long in the supple lingering aftertaste. What an old aristocrat! 1832 1848 1858 1864 1868 Château Lafite (Pauillac) Château Lafite (Pauillac) Château Lafite (Pauillac) Château Lafite (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 92p 89p 92p 97p 74p 2007/now x1 2005/now x2 2005/now x1 2004/now x2 2001/2010 x2 1914 1916 1922 1928 1929 1931 1934 1937 1943 1945 1947 1949 1950 1952 ( Pe k k a Nu i k k i ) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 82p 80p 85p 90p 78p 88p 91p 89p 88p 92p 95p 95p 81p 90p 2002/now x1 2007/now x2 2007/now x1 2007/now x5 2007/2015 x3 2001/now x1 2001/now x5 2005/2010 x4 2002/now x2 2007/2015 x3 2007/2010 x1 2005/2025 x6 2004/2015 x2 2001/now x4 1870 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 100p 2001/2010 x3 D15min / G2 h My friend had acquired this 1870 Lafite in 1979 at an auction for about £900. It was one of the 41 famous magnums that had laid untouched in the cellars of Glamis Castle for nearly a decade. The wine had in its time been bottled in Scotland by Coningham and had come to public sale for the first time at the Christie's auction of June 24th 1971. The selling price was then £83. Good top-shoulder level. Decanted only 15 minutes. My notes were: this Lafite must have been nearly black when it was born, since it still was deep, dark red. Nose was most intoxicating­spicy, pure and strongly seductive. A grand tannin was still present, well balanced with sensations of berries and fruits. A very pleasant, majestic and deeply multi-dimensional wine. The aftertaste lasted until the next morning­and it still lingers in our memories. Though it sometimes takes more than 50 years for a wine to become drinkable, it was worth the wait at least on this occasion. We are no longer amazed at all those harsh statements that this wine and vintage received in the early 20th century. But we wonder what a truly magnificent wine Lafite must have been in the middle of the last century, for it is still one of the very best wines I have encountered ­ even at the age of 130! 1874 1887 1892 1898 1899 1900 1904 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 96p 66p 93p 88p 93p 94p 87p 2005/now x4 1999/now x1 2005/now x2 2003/now x1 2005/now x2 2007/now x2 2001/now x1 1953 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 99p 2007/2020x11 D2h/G1h Since Lafite is highly elegant and less massive than most other premiercru wines, it is also most open to variations in quality, especially in weak years. Particularly from the 1960s until 1975 its quality was often not equal to other Premier Cru wines. But from the year 1975 on its wines have lived up to their reputation. "The Perfection of Elegance" is a definition many critics connect with Lafite, and this celebrated 1953 Lafite justified this description convincingly. A perfect looking bottle and the level was by the neck. Decanted for two hours. Attractive, mature brick-red colour. Sound and open bouquet with a hint of mint and sweetness. Soft and pleasing, mouth-filling wine. Incredible elegance and a feminine, classic Lafite with great depth and fragrant finish. Sensitive and multilayered, lingering experience. Tasted 22 times in the last seven years with very variable notes. This vintage shows large bottle variations. At Lafite they needed close to a year to bottle everything from cask to cask. The best bottles were perfect, but more than a few were already quite one-dimensional and dry. But with a little bit of luck this exquisite Lafite is the best Lafite you will ever taste ­ a marvellous wine. 1955 1957 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 90p Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 83p 2007/now x3 2001/now x2 1959 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 98p 2007/2020 x23 D1h/G2h Very good appearance. Decanted for one hour. Healthy, youthful and bright colour. Very classic on the nose with spicy Cabernet notes, cedar wood, chocolate and delicious truffle. The 1959 Lafite is more open, intense and complex than the 1961, which also looks older and has more tannin. Elegant, but ripe fruit, acidity and structure. Well balanced. Surprisingly fat and big wine for Lafite, while very elegant. Long, sweet Fi n e Es tat e

C h â t e au L a f i t e v i n tag e s and intense finish with some soft tannin left. An outstanding wine. Since 1959 Lafite did not make wine of this level until 1982. 1960 1961 1962 1964 1966 1967 1969 1970 1971 1973 1975 1976 1978 1979 1981 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 80p 93p 91p 91p 90p 80p 84p 86p 88p 81p 83p 91p 87p 82p 90p 2001/now x1 2006/2015 x7 2007/2020 x9 2007/now x4 2007/2015x8 2002/ now x3 2007/now x4 2007/2015 x15 2007/now x9 2005/now x8 2007/2015 x2 2007/2015 x3 2006/now x3 2005/now x4 2007/now x3 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 ( Pe k k a Nu i k k i ) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 90p 86p 91p 97p 85p 91p 2007/2015 x4 2005/2015 x5 2004/2015 x7 2005/2025 x24 2002/2015 x2 2007/2015 x3 1982 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 98p 2005/2020 x9 D2h/G2h This spectacular vintage started off with very early flowering similarly to 1959, 1961 and 1966, indicating a large crop. July turned out unusually hot whereas August was cooler than on average. The heatwave between the 6th and 13th of September nailed the vintage as a legendary one. A very classic Pauillac. Decanted for two hours. Still a youthful, very dark, ruby red colour. Full-bodied and elegant wine. On the palate it has marvellous flavours of mint, spiced berry fruits, tobacco, lead pencil and minerals, all of which linger very comfortably. Fullbodied, with exemplary extraction of fruit and notable tannins. Rich and big Lafite with lavishingly long finish. This extensive Lafite will undoubtedly last for another 20 years, but is already very, very pleasing. 1989 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 93p 2007/2020 x11 D 2 h / G 1.5 h No winemaker had seen such early harvests at Lafite: the earliest since 1893, starting at the end of August. The grapes were ripe and extraordinarily sweet. While early maturity doesn't always lead to fine wines, we still bet heavily on the excellence of this vintage, and the wines that it produced are truly delicious. Médoc produced deeply coloured wines that are rich and light, similar to the 1982 vintage. A fine bottle with by the neck colour. Decanted two hours. Clear, promising, deep tawny colour. Very intense, developing and complex aromas of yoghurt, milk chocolate and intense, dark, red berries with bell pepper. A concentrated taste with a ripe, almost jammy, fruitiness. The moderately high acidity balances the ripe fruit and firm, big tannins. Long finish with an attractive concentration and finesse. Very good future potential! 1990 1991 1992 1994 1995 1996 1998 1999 2000 2001 2003 Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 91p 82p 86p 91p 89p 91p 92p 94p 92p 93p 95p 2007/2015 x18 2006/2015 x6 2005/2015 x3 2006/2025 x2 2004/2025 x5 2007/2035 x3 2006/2035 x5 2003/2025 x4 2007/2045 x3 2007/2025 x4 2007/2045 x3

VINI-RARI. RAREST-WINES. it FINE AND RARE WINE SPECIALIST Dom Pérignon 1949 Dom Pérignon 1952 Dom Pérignon 1955 Dom Pérignon 1964 Dom Pérignon 1966 Dom Pérignon 1969 Dom Pérignon 1970 Dom Pérignon 1978 Dom Pérignon 1980 =800 =750 =750 =450 =450 =400 =350 =250 =180 =1500 =1000 = 900 = 900 = 400 = 400 = 400 = 400 = 400 COM Cristal Roederer 1961 Cristal Roederer 1962 Cristal Roederer 1964 Cristal Roederer 1966 Cristal Roederer 1974 Cristal Roederer 1975 Cristal Roederer 1977 Cristal Roederer 1978 Cristal Roederer 1979 Lucien Beaumet Brut 1964 Piper­Heidseick Louis Florens 1964 Perriet­Jouët Extra Brut Réserve 1966 Perrier­Jouët Blason de France 1966 Veuve Clicquot Rosé 1970 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1971 Henriot Souverain Brut 1973 Ruinart Dom Ruinart 1975 Ruinart Magnum Dom Ruinart 1975 Perrier­Jouët Belle Epoque 1976 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1978 Krug Vintage 1979 Veuve Clicquot Brut 1980 Piper­Heidseick Brut Millésime 1982 Mumm Cuvée René Lalou 1985 Perrier­Jouët Belle Epoque 1988 = 60 =250 =200 =250 =160 =350 = 80 =250 =600 =200 =200 =650 = 60 = 70 =120 =150 VINI-RARI / RAREST-WINES 2c Via Trieste Carmignano Di Brenta 35010 Italy Tel / Fax: +39 049 943 0909 Partita IVA: 04260020286 http://www.vini-rari.com http://www.rarest-wines.com

"Residence of Excellence" R E S I D E N Z · G O U R M E T - R E S T A U R A N T · W I N E A R C H I V E P a l a i s C o b u rg , V i e n n a , + 4 3 / 1 / 5 1 8 1 8 - 0 , w w w. p a l a i s - co b u rg . co m , re s i d e n z @ p a l a i s - co b u rg . co m 34 F I N E

of the United States Un The Name of the Future text: Juha Lihtonen photos: Pekka Nuikki Broadbent is a name which inspires respect in the wine world. Michael Broadbent's tremendous career as the world's leading wine writer and senior director of the wine department at Christie's auction house is known around the globe. In the United States, however, the Broadbent name is associated with the country's most respected Port and Madeira expert, Bartholomew Broadbent, Michael Broadbent's 46-year-old son, who ten years ago was named among the 50 most influential people in the wine world ­ the faces to watch in the new millenium. The son who grew up in the shadow of his famous father has one goal ­ to make the Broadbent name bigger than his father ever did. P o r t a n d m a de i r a s p e c i a l i s T · Bartholomew Broadbent · 35 Bartholomew Broadbent Fi n e P e r s o n a l i t y

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b a r t h o l o m e w L engthy Union Street cuts through idyllic low-rise city blocks on the hills of San Francisco's downtown. Small boutiques and coffee shops create a cosy atmosphere on the lightly trafficked street. Number 2088 is the site of the Broadbent Selections wine import company, which Bartholomew Broadbent founded in 1996 and which has gained great recognition in the United States. Now its business operations have expanded from the United States to China, where he exports his Broadbent Port, Madeira and Vinho Verde and co-own's Dragon's Hollow the first vineyard in China to concentrate on quality wines. He has succeeded in finding his own place in the wine world apart from the spotlight claimed by his father. Thanks are due to his father, however, because had his father not been married to wines as he was, Bartholomew's career choice probably would have been different. -I have grown up to be with wines through my father's profession. My mother says I tasted wine before milk, Bartholomew says with a wide grin on his face. He continues, -It's true that Coca-Cola was avoided at my house, but I've drunk wine at home ever since I was seven years old. In Broadbent's family, life revolves around wine, and the family has travelled all over the world in pursuit of it. Gravitating to a career in wine was only natural. -I've never felt that I possessed my father's talent for auctioning, even though I've tried that as well. Wines have never been for me something in which I invest, and for that reason I feel that the world of auction houses is foreign to me. I'm a connoisseur, I search for good wines and I always buy them for enjoyment purposes. His great enthusiasm for wines further excited me, and it was there that I made the final decision on my career choice. I called my father from Australia and said that I would focus on the field of wines. After returning from Australia, Bartholomew found work at the London-based Harvey's Fine Wine Merchants wine store, from which an amusing coincidence finally took him all the way to the United States. and a job in Montreal at Schenley, a big alcoholic beverage company. Everything is possible in the United States After working at Schenley's in Canada for a few years, he was offered two very interesting jobs in the United States, one in Chicago at the Veuve Clicquot organisation and the other with the Symington family east of the Mississippi. The young Bartholomew considered the Port house the more interesting alternative. However, he never became a sales representative, because only a week before he was to start work, the Symingtons' U.S. importer in San Francisco died and Bartholomew was asked to continue his operations. His task there was to establish the company's own import business for Symington wines. Bartholomew founded Premium Port Wines and managed it for the next ten years. After setting up those operations, the 25-year-old youngster travelled around the United States organising tasting events and telling people about Ports. -At my peak, I was lecturing in four cities a day. In the beginning, though, only a few people came to Call from the closet From cognac to wine Bartholomew Broadbent searched for his own way into the world of wines right after high school. At his mother's suggestion, he left to be a tourist guide at the Hennessy cognac house in France. After coming back to London, he worked for a while in Harrods wine department before wines took him to Australia. -In Australia I worked at the Rothbury Estate and the Yalumba Winery. This is where I met Marc Hugel, the winemaker of the legendary Maison Hugel in Alsace, who at the same time was familiarising himself with Australian wine production. One day the cellar of the wine store was reserved for the board of a big multinational company. Meanwhile a regular customer and family friend came into the store after a wet lunch. -I had to keep him quiet so I poured him a glass of sherry and locked him in a large closet. Every twenty minutes I unlocked the door to fill up his glass. After the fifth glass, he said that I'd be a popular man in Canada, Bartholomew remembers while laughing. He was surprised not long after this incident to receive an invitation to interview for a job in Quebec, and in no time Bartholomew found himself with a visa 37 Bartholomew Broadbent Fi n e P e r s o n a l i t y

b a r t h o l o m e w the events. When I finally found myself standing before 300 people, I felt that my job had been done. Ports had attracted the interest of Americans, Bartholomew states. In 1988, the following year, he decided to do the same for the Madeira wines, which before Prohibition had been the most imported wine in the United States. Highlights of that career included organising a tasting event for the 39 vintage Madeiras, where the wines tasted spanned from 1845 all the way to more recent vintages. The event drew nearly 500 people into Napa Valley and ultimately created a market niche for Madeira in the United States. 2006 Riesling, a wine indicative of the estate's future potential. Yquem for babies Bartholomew Broadbent glows with satisfaction over the current circumstances of his life. Broadbent Selections is a successful import company with offices in San Francisco, Virginia and New York, and in addition to the winery he has his own import company in China, securing for himself a foothold the growing Chinese market. In Virginia, where he makes his home with his wife and their twins, he has already seen to the next generation's initiation into wines. He recalls: -I prepared for the birth of the twins with a glass of Yquem, which I smuggled to the delivery hospital. After the twins were born, I dipped my finger into the wine and put my finger into my babies' mouths. In other words, they were enjoying Yquem even before mother's milk! Bartholomew Broadbent says that the name made famous by his father has opened many doors for him and given his activities credence. For his own part, he wants to make the Broadbent name much more famous than it is, his goal being to create a respected and trusted wine brand from which he hopes his children will benefit in the future. If Bartholomew Broadbent achieves this goal, the twins will grow up in a world where their last name is a valuable brand. If he does not, they will nevertheless carry a name which opens doors to the world of wines in a way that many indeed would be prepared to pay for. Own brand Over just ten years, Bartholomew Broadbent had made both Ports and Madeiras popular in the United States again. His active role as a lobbyist for the beverages made him the number one expert on Ports and Madeiras in the United States. -After I gained the reputation for being the country's leading expert on Ports and Madeiras, I felt it was the right time to commercialise my own name. In 1996, I founded Broadbent Selections. In the beginning, I wanted to compete only in the Port and Madeira fields. I also realised a longstanding dream immediately that year. I launched Broadbent Port, which was the legendary 1994 vintage. Later under the Broadbent name Madeira and Vinho Verde were created, says Bartholomew recalling that his father was dismayed about the matter: -When he saw the Broadbent Port, my father was at first shocked about seeing his own name on the side of a Port bottle. He quickly recovered, however, and today likes to offer it as a gift to his hosts when visiting Bordeaux. Since then, he has taken a very active role travelling to Madeira to choose the wines for the Broadbent Madeira. Today only 20 per cent of Broadbent Selections' offering comprises Ports and Madeiras, the rest being table wines from around the world. Bartholomew is constantly searching for new family-owned wine production companies for his portfolio, and currently is focusing on not-so-traditional wine countries. In addition, he is a part-owner of a winery. In 2006, Bartholomew Broadbent met David Henderson, a winemaker who asked him to be a partner in the Dragon's Hollow winery project with the goal of creating the topquality wines in China at his 6 000hectare estate in Ningxia Hui. The first white wines were produced in 2005. Bartholomew praises the 38 F I N E A M E R I C A N

CALL & LEARN MORE TODAY | 866.347.3684 | sentient.com At Sentient, we understand that no two trips are alike. So we've best meets your needs--delivering it with a level of personalized pioneered a unique Membership Program that's as flexible as your service designed to make every flight an extraordinary experience. lifestyle. Each time you fly, we provide you with the jet solution that Sentient Jet Membership is a program of Sentient Flight Group, Inc. ("Sentient"). All flights are operated by FAR Part 135 air carriers that exercise full operational control of charter flights at all times. Some flights will be operated by Sentient, an FAR Part 135 air carrier operating in full compliance with all FAA safety standards and additional safety standards established by Sentient. Some flights will be operated by other FAR Part 135 air carriers that have been certified to provide service for the Sentient Jet Membership Program and that meet both FAA and Sentient standards. (Refer to www.sentient.com/standards for details.)

We invest half a year of work to make an A. Lange & Söhne run flawlessly. The Langematik Perpetual. A masterpiece made for posterity. With its perpetual calendar and a moonphase display that remains accurate for 122 years, this watch ultimately takes more than a year to complete. T o make our watches one-of-a-kind, we assemble them twic.This applies to the Langematik Perpetual as well. During the first time-consuming assembly process, the master watchmakers ensure that the functions of all the mechanisms interact in perfect harmony, among them the patented zero-reset mechanism and the individually or collectively adjustable calendar displays. During these phases of maximum concentration, no existing technology can replace the hands of Lange's experienced master watchmakers. After months of patient work, the time finally arrives when they can verify that the Langematik Perpetual is running flawlessly. 40 F I N E

Then we take it apart again. But even then, it is too early to celebrate. The step that follows is unique in precision watchmaking: the movement is totally disassembled again. Now, the finisseurs take over to create those extraordinary finishing touches. Using time-honoured techniques, they decorate all movement parts with Glashütte ribbing, damascening, circular graining, or engravings ­ even those components that are later no longer visible through the sapphire-crystal back. These artistic accents make every "A. Lange & Söhne" watch a unique exemplarthat unites the classic craft of watchmaking with a constant quest for innovation. True to our claim: 41 W A T C H E S

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Photos: Pekka Nuikki Text: Juha Lihtonen Some legendary wineries flash past us as we drive along the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley. All of a sudden there is one which stands out from all the rest, and we take a look. A Persian palace full of oriental mystique is the intriguing sight that greets us at the end of a long drive behind high gates. Next to them is a sign which reads Darioush. A less-known winery in such splendid surroundings miserably often suggests wine of dubious quality. Is Darioush just one of those wineries built on megabucks or is there a real treasure waiting within? The next day I am seated in a stylish tasting room in subdued lighting in the wine cellar at Darioush. In front of me there are four glasses from which to sample the winery's best wines available. When one enters the building it is as if one has arrived in luxurious five star hotel rather than a winery. An interesting detail is provided by the Persian ambient music everywhere, including the cellars. ­It is great being able to make wine in surroundings like this, says Steve Devitt, who is responsible for wine making on the estate. ­I don't just mean the building, but the whole estate and our vineyards. The place was built in more or less seven years from scratch. The grounds were analysed, dried and drained. It took a long time to till the soil before we could plant. When the preliminary work was done we were able to get the best out of the soil and produce top quality grapes. At the same time we had to create proper facilities for producing top wines from quality grapes. We built firstrate cellars and finished it with proper reception areas. The estate was fully completed in 2004. The winery, which covers more than 22 000 square feet area, was built by its Iranian-born owner, Darioush Khaledi, with uncompromising precision. The aim was to create an architecturally unique winery in Napa that would reflect Persian culture and design. The estate's sales director, Dawn Dooley, explains: ­A good example of the way Khaledi doesn't compromise is the choice of rock material for the winery building. Only stone quarried at Persepolis would do. It was sent to Turkey and Italy to be cut and tumbled before it came here. 43 F I N E E S T A T E Fi n e Es tat e

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Bordeaux or Napa Darioush Khaledi, who made his fortune with a supermarket chain and a real estate business in California, had a passion for having a winery, but it did not emerge overnight. The dream of his own winery existed already when he was growing up near the city of Shiraz, in Iran, where he would watch his father pursuing his hobby of winemaking. Later on, Khaledi began a career as a civil engineer running his own company in Tehran. His business partner introduced him to the world of French wines and especially to Bordeaux, where they made trips together. In 1975 Khaledi realised that he was too limited business wise in Iran; he needed more freedom to develop. After seven years in civil engineering business, he decided to leave Iran together with his family. He believed that he could pursue his dreams in the United States where he would have more freedom and control over his own destiny. He and his family headed to Los Angeles where his brother-in-law was living. Being short of money with no English skills, he realised he needed to create a new career. Khaledi and his son-in-law bought a Spanish grocery store. It was the start of a successful chain of stores employing a staff of 1 500 people. His success allowed him in early 1980s to pursue the pastime, which had interested him from his youth: collecting wine. He was particularly keen on fine wines, mainly Bordeaux, where his preferences were La Mission HautBrion and Lafite-Rothschild. Currently Khaledi has around 14 000 bottles of fine and rare wine, of which over 50 per cent are from Bordeaux. Spending his anniversary at the luxury spa resort of Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley in the late 1980s, he asked the sommelier to bring him a wine whose origin he could see from the balcony. The waiter brought a bottle of Caymus Special Select 1984. The wine fascinated him and he could not at first believe it came from Napa Valley. The following day he went to meet Caymus owner Charlie Wagner. After talking to him, Khaledi was convinced of Napa Valley's potential for producing top wines. It was not until 1995 that he finally realized he was successful enough to purchase his own winery. He spent a year looking for one mainly in Bordeaux only to discoverer the endeavour too bureaucratic with taxation and inheritance laws. Suddenly Napa looked like a very rational option. Khaledi was keen on finding an estate from the coolest areas of Napa for producing elegant wines of European standard. He finally found the ideal spot from southern Napa Valley in 1997. ­Here we get the cooling fogs on the vineyards and the hangtime of grapes can easily be three to four weeks longer than in Calistoga or St Helena, Khaledi points out. Beside the Darioush estate, they nowadays have vineyards in the very cool Mount Vedeer and Oak Knoll districts. The deal for the estate included that the seller helps Khaledi in finding a good winemaker. Steve Devitt was introduced and he impressed Khaledi with his philosophy and competence. Khaledi made the goal clear from day one: ­We are out to make one of the most recognizable wines in America with a unique style. 46 F I N E A M E R I C A N

The secret of quality Steve Devitt says that when they started working the land, they discovered hard volcanic rock deep under the soil. The soil also contained very little organic material. ­An ideal situation for producing quality grapes: poor soil where the vines have to struggle to keep alive, and continues; ­To get the sort of organic material we needed to ensure the vines had a supply of nitrogen, we had to plant suitable crops between them, including beans and white mustard, Devitt explains. With winemaking, Devitt stresses the importance of cultivated land and says that, if the fields are not cared for properly and individually, it just is not possible to obtain the desired quality of grape. ­We firmly believe in natural farming and don't want to manipulate our vineyards. The fields are laid out in plots and each is tended individually. Thanks to the volcanic soil with its meagre nutrient content the vines produce very small grapes in small clusters. They are harvested carefully and put in small baskets so that they can remain intact. Selection of the grapes is carried out twice. First by cluster and then by individual grape. Grapes for red wines are cold soaked for four days to develop a full colour and to stop extensive tannin extraction. The wines are aged in 85 per cent new French Taransaud barriques for an average of 20 to 24 months. A variety of immense importance to Khaledi is Shiraz because of the link to Iran. Shiraz clones are half from old Australian vines and half from Northern Rhône vines. Though proud of their Shiraz, Devitt stresses that it is Cabernet Sauvignon they lavish their attention on most. It is their pride and joy. Apart from Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, Darioush produce Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Pinot Noir. Devitt has also managed to make a small amount of noble-rotted Shahpar Late Harvest Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc in two separate years. One of the peculiar wines is highly esteemed Viognier, which Khaledi decided to start working with after dining in The French Laundry with his wife in 1999. ­The sommelier recommended Viognier wine for some dish and it charmed especially my wife. I decided to produce very limited quantities of it, Khaledi explains. All the wines are produced by parcel in the spirit of Burgundy. As a result, the quantities produced are incredibly small, varying on average from 700 to 1 400 cases a year. But the greatest rarity might be considered to be the 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate's eight-acre Apadana Block. Only 100 cases were produced of the vintage 2004, released for sale in autumn 2007, and it was all sold out in just a few days. Small production volumes and surprisingly low prices are a guarantee that whatever Darioush releases is a sure sale. For one and a half hours I have been sitting in the tasting room at Darioush, lost in the enthralling world that Steve Devitt and Dawn Dooley oversee here, and it is time to taste the wines which have now conveniently opened up in front of me. I taste them and at last I have the answer to the question that was nagging me when I stopped by the gates. Inside this enchanting palace awaits a treasure of wines of which we will be hearing more. 47 F I N E E S T A T E Fi n e Es tat e

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TASTING NOTES: 2006 Darioush Chardonnay Signature (JL 90p) Moderately intense yellow green colour. Very pronounced nose with delicate complexity. Ripe pineapple and lemon tones enriched by refined toastiness. Dry wine with moderate level of acidity, very luscious fruit that turns elegantly restrained in lingering finish with lemony and mineral flavours. Extremely well balanced and supple wine. Drinking well now but will keep another 3 to 4 years. 2005 Darioush Merlot Signature (JL 91p) Dark, deep, ruby colour. Intense and complex nose with ripe dark fruit notes, lovely spiciness, licorice, and smoke. Fullbodied wine with moderate level of acidity, round and rich tannins, very spicy and toasty mid palate while the finish is restrained but very elegant with lovely coffee flavours. Very young wine still, but drinking amazingly already. Will definitely benefit from 5 to 7 years ageing and will keep much longer. 2005 Darioush Shiraz Signature (JL 95p) Deep, dark, purple colour. Amazing richness on the nose with very ripe bramble and cassis notes. Charming toastiness, perfumy, and butterscotch aromas with spicy, peppery and smoky nuances. Fullbodied, smooth and silky texture, supple velvety tannins, ripe dark fruit with brambles, Long and very persistent subtle finish with unique harmony. Drinking surprisingly well already but will evolve beneficially over next 8 to 10 years. 2005 Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon Signature (JL 94p) Deep, rich ruby colour. Dark and intense nose with cassis, vanilla and dark chocolate. Very intense full-bodied palate with vivid acidity and ripe cassis. Firm refined tannic structure and great concentration. Extremely long finish with polished style. Great potential for long-term ageing, being harmonious and drinkable already, but will definitely deliver its best after 10 to 15 years ageing. 49 F I N E E S T A T E Fi n e Es tat e

Antinori , Gaja, Sandrone and de Mar chi four musketeers of text: Es s i Ave llan MW photos: Pek k a Nuik k i The sparks of Italy's wine revolution in the 1960s spreads deep into the wine country well before high-profile producers stormed the barricades. A rural exodus, increasing poverty in wine-growing regions and archaic legislation conspired to lower the prices of wine and arable land. Classic areas such as Tuscany and Piedmont were plunged into crisis. In the midst of all this despair private producers came on the scene to enhance the level of quality and tilt at windmills. Four key revolutionaries and respected leaders in the Italian wine business, Piero Antinori, Paolo De Marchi, Angelo Gaja and Luciano Sandrone, share their stories and vision for the future with us. 50 F I N E

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sense of duty and concern surely weighed heavily upon the shoulders of young a aristocrat, Marquis Piero Antinori, the 26th generation patriarch of a Tuscan wine empire, when as a young man he joined the board of Agricola Antinori during one of its darkest hours. An inexperienced executive, his head must have been spinning with thoughts of bringing down a thousand-year wine dynasty, as the price and quality of Chiantis had all but collapsed. After the fact, it is easy to praise the Marquis' astute business decisions, but the risks that needed to be taken were certainly anything but easy. Time seems to have bathed Marquis Antinori's memories in a golden glow, as he begins on a very positive note: -I was lucky to have been born at this particular time. My friend Hugh Johnson always says that more has happened in the wine industry in the past 50 years than during the past 3 000 years combined. I've been able to see and experience all of it. I TA LY ' S four musketeers of wine We are sitting in Palazzo Antinori, the family's city residence and headquarters for the Antinori wine empire, located in Florence's Piazza Antinori. Marquis Piero Antinori, 68, has been gradually relinquishing control of the venerable wine house to his three daughters, Allegra, Alessia and Albiera. Signore Antinori graciously receives us, even though our visit comes on short notice and outside normal business hours. Meeting Marquis Antinori, the indisputable patriarch of the Italian wine business, aroused a wide variety of preconceptions. Fit and upstanding, Piero Antinori's very presence positively oozes peace and dignity. His inherited and earned-title shines through as a natural status and self-confidence, requiring no props or gew gaws to affirm. The Marquis continues talking about his beginnings: -In the 1960s the quality of Italian wines was in a sorry state. Wine was exclusively a food product, intended merely to provide energy as well as quench the thirst. The per capita consumption of wine in Italy was over 160 litres every year. Ever since then, consumption has steadily decreased and, in transition, moved toward higher quality wines. This declining trend in consumption further deepened the plight of small producers, as there was not enough demand for bulk grapes. This created the need to develop wine quality and look for markets abroad. Elsewhere in Tuscany, in the tiny Chianti Classico hamlet of Isole, we meet Isole e Olena's Paolo De Marchi, who is one of Tuscany's most respected wine personalities. An uncompromising pursuer of perfection, the intellectual and energetic De Marchi dispenses his knowledge, seasoned with a great deal of interest, stretching our originally planned morning visit well into the afternoon hours. Operating on a much smaller scale than Antinori, wine rebel De Marchi deepens our understanding of the Tuscany that was forty years before: -Tuscany still existed in a medieval economy. Subsistence farming was the norm, which ended in one fell swoop with the introduction of new laws. This resulted in an exodus of people from rural areas to the cities. Isole e Olena was originally two separate villages, which were joined after the World Wars. Within ten years, the villages were empty, the population plummeting from a hundred citizens to just fourteen. From 1967 to 1972 the region received funding for extensive replanting using extremely poor vine material, which led to a further decline in the level of quality and a serious recession in Chianti that lasted from 1970 to 1985. I arrived here at an ideal time, 1976, when things were at their worst. It was magnificent timing, because during this time of change, all doors were open and anything was possible. Rock-bottom prices for land made it possible to buy vineyards. 52 F I N E

"There was a dramatic shift in land ownership. The producers that emerged strongest from this period of upheaval were the ones who had the foresight to take advantage of such low land prices." Marquis Piero Antinori 53 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly

If Chiantis bottled in demijohns was the challenge facing Tuscany, things were not much better to the north in Piedmont. ( photo taken in Barolo) 54 F I N E

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-In the 1970s Barolo was a very different place than it is now. There was almost zero interest in the region ­ not here in Italy or abroad. Barolo wines were difficult. No one understood that the ripeness of grapes The veritable king of neighbouring village Barbaresco, Angelo Gaja, is a man who has undeniably done the most for the international renown of Piedmont wines. and smaller crop yields were important factors. Impurities were a problem. I come from the village of La Morra in Barolo, but my parents weren't in the wine business. I wanted to be a winemaker since I can remember, and still hold true to my vision of realising the full potential of Nebbiolo and Barolo. I worked as a winemaker for other producers until 1990, when my own garage wine business had grown to such proportions that I dared to take the plunge and start my own wine operation. The veritable king of neighbouring village Barbaresco, Angelo Gaja, is a man who has undeniably done the most for the international renown of Piedmont wines. Largely due to his efforts, the world knows that Italy produces high quality and high priced wines. A colourful and ebullient personality, Gaja is a third-generation winemaker, but before his arrival, the house of Gaja was just another small-scale producer among many. Gaja recalls the early days: -The land in Barbaresco was as good as free. My grandfather even got into buying land. My father, Giovanni Gaja, knew the terroir in Barbaresco, so he knew exactly where to buy the best plots and best grapes. If knowledge of terroir is the domain of ancestors, the key to Angelo Gaja's success is above all marketing savvy. He has studied both winemaking and business. Combined with his studies abroad, most notably in France, these paved Barbaresco's road to world success. Gaja's natural charisma, arrogance and the sheer volume and 57 I T A L Y Gaia Gaja Fi n e It a ly If Chiantis bottled in demijohns was the challenge facing Tuscany, things were not much better to the north in Piedmont. Having realised the American dream, small-scale producer Luciano Sandrone built his truly exceptional property from scratch, spending the first 17 years producing his wines in ascetic conditions: the "garage" of his city home. Sandrone is considered one of Barolo's first "modernists". He paints a vivid picture:

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Less is more The situation for raw ingredients was grim. High-yield clones were planted in both Piedmont and Tuscany instead of higher-quality, lower-yield vines. No one seemed to understand the correlation between quality and quantity. Increasing the level of quality required daring and financial risktaking. Luciano Sandrone recalls: -It was difficult to get growers to cut their crops prematurely by 50­70 per cent in order to achieve a sufficiently concentrated end result. A per hectare yield of 35­40 hectolitres is right for Nebbiolo. But just cutting the crop size wasn't enough because the quality of the clone material was poor. We started working in co-operation with the University of Turin to develop high-quality Nebbiolo clones. The same work had to be done for the Tuscan Sangiovese, but it, too, fell short due to restrictive legislation in the region. For example, it was mandatory to use not only Sangiovese grapes, but also weaker varieties, such as Canaiolo, and white varieties in the production of Chianti. The restrictions on Chianti forced producers to rebel, by producing their top labels as table wines, thus falling outside the DOC(G) classification. Luciano and Barbara Sandrone with the Editor. "Blending laws were outdated and didn't do a thing toward maximising or reforming wine quality. We found ourselves between a rock and a hard place." Arrival of international varieties Together with Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, Antinori developed the so-called "Super Tuscan" category of wines. Antinori's revolutionary vino da tavola, the Tignanello Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon blend first saw the light of day in 1974. -Blending laws were outdated and didn't do a thing toward maximising or reforming wine quality. Even though we found ourselves between a rock and a hard place, we still had the courage to launch the Tignanello as a table wine instead of a Chianti Classico. We started wine production tests already in 1970 and, after receiving encouraging feedback from international export market experts and our Florentine partners, we finally went ahead and launched the wine. Actually, my father had already tested Cabernet Sauvignon on the Tignanello plot in the 1930s, with promising results. For us, the Tignanello is a very important and emotionally-loaded wine, the symbol of a new age. Solaia, which is a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon along with Sangiovese, was the crowning touch to our line-up, enhancing our concept in 1978 soon after the Tignanello. Thus began the arrival of international varieties. In particular, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc found a new home in Tuscany. Isole e Olena's Paolo De Marchi was the first to plant Syrah vines in Tuscany in 1984. International varieties never played as important a role in Piedmont as they did in Tuscany. Angelo Gaja made it into the headlines with his Cabernet Sauvignon Darmagi, whose vines he planted in 1978. Gaja's father opposed the planting of Cabernet in Barbaresco, uttering "Darmagi" ("What a pity!") as he passed the vines, thus giving them their name. 59 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly force of his opinions have made him an instant media darling. The style and quality of his wines ascended to revolutionary heights, so the rest is, as they say, history.

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( photo taken in Tuscany) 61 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly "It's time to return to our roots. I have faith in Sangiovese and Chianti Classico as well as the new areas of Tuscany, such as Maremma. The character of wine will ascend to ever greater heights. In addition to the terroir, people, their approaches and in equal measure, tradition will all play a key role." Piero Antinori

"Maybe it wasn't the best idea to plant international varieties in Piedmont, but at the time planting had its historical reasons." Return to roots Now, nearly 30 years later, Angelo Gaja has a confession to make: -Maybe it wasn't the best idea to plant international varieties in Piedmont, but at the time planting had its historical reasons. Piero Antinori agrees: -International varieties did once play a crucial role. But we don't need them in the same way anymore ­ we can, instead, focus our attention on developing our own varieties. De Marchi of Isole e Olena supposes that international varieties were the answer to short-term problems caused by the poor vine material of local varieties and the weak international reputation of Italian wines. A longterm solution was found among De Marchi's own varieties, particularly the Sangiovese. In the wake of the first Super Tuscans came an enormous number of new competitors in this category. The appeal made by the Marquis and his partners had been accepted and laws changed, particularly where Chianti was concerned, thus reducing the need for unclassified wines. So, the question remains: What is the future of Super Tuscans? -At one point, just about any wine made using international varieties sold at very high prices, but those days are long gone. In the future only historical wines are probably the only ones that will retain their status, surmises Marquis Antinori. Classico as well as the new areas of Tuscany, such as Maremma. The character of wine will ascend to ever greater heights. In addition to the terroir, people, their approaches and, in equal measure, tradition will all play a key role. Paolo De Marchi represents a different measure of the small-scale producer, who fully understands that a wine's uniqueness is a competitive edge: -Our work is branded small-scale agriculture. The product is in close contact with its origin, and the people who drink Isole e Olena know it. But wine is also always the image of its maker. My son will undoubtedly make a very different wine than I do. Piedmontese excellence in single vineyard wines It is entirely apropos to call Tuscany the 'Bordeaux of Italy' for a variety of reasons. Wines are predominantly named after their makers, not the vineyards. The blending of different varieties and wine production processes follow the Bordeaux model. Barolo and Barbaresco, on the other hand, are comparable to Burgundy, with similarities in the smaller scale of wine production and refined style of their wines. In Burgundy plots are everything, as they are in the classical villages of Piedmont. The greatest Italian wine idol of all time, Veronelli, brought French teachings to Piedmont and introduced his concept of the single vineyard in 1961, leading the way for Bruno Giacosa, Renato Ratti and Prunotto. Angelo Gaja took to the concept and introduced his first single vineyard Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo in 1967, followed by the Costa Russi in 1978: -I wasn't so crazy about the 'cru' designation, so I looked for a local term to describe single vineyard wines. Indeed, in the local dialect 'Sorí' means the south face of a hill. Luciano Sandrone, on the other hand, adopted the single vineyard concept under a certain sense of obligation: -In 1978 I invested in a plot just under a hectare in size on Cannubi hill. My first vintage yielded 1,500 bottles, and when the time came to sell, I decided to try my luck at the Vinitaly wine show. I didn't think I would be able to sell a single bottle, but to my surprise I sold the entire lot­destined for America­on the first day. With increased confidence, I began to buy more vineyards and even lease land. The individual production of single plot wines has always been my philosophy. Sangiovese instils faith Paolo De Marchi set the tone for modern Tuscan wines when in 1980 he produced his Cepparello in Chianti Classico, made entirely of Sangiovese and classified as a vino de tavola. Cepparello was the first of this style, which is now one of the trendier and more promising iterations in Tuscany. Antinori's Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva is an example of a currently highly esteemed 100% Sangiovese, whose production was made possible after blending laws were amended in 1996. Other producers of interest in this category include Fontodi, Felsina and Volpaia. Piero Antinori shares his views of Tuscany's future: -It's time to return to our roots. I have faith in Sangiovese and Chianti 62 F I N E

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65 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly "There is no one right way to get your children to take over the family business. The desire has to come from them. I can only give my children the best possible cards to play for the future. They don't have to work for Gaja just to make me happy. They're more than welcome to join us here if it will make them happy!" Angelo Gaja ( photo taken in Barbaresco)

Room for growth All four of these enormously successful producers have had to take a stand on future growth challenges. Luciano Sandrone has kept his family operation firmly planted in the soils of Piedmont and invested in new wine production facilities and extended bottle maturation for his wines. Although Isole e Olena's De Marchi did not want to increase his production in Tuscany, either, he still could not resist the temptation to begin producing wines with his son at the family's historic vineyard in Northern Piedmont. Expect to hear things about the Proprietà Sperino. Gaja and Antinori both see expansion as a welcome challenge. Gaja, who is widely known for his rejection of joint venture offers made by, among others, Robert Mondavi, believes that Tuscany has the greatest potential for growth: -We're no longer interested in growing in Piedmont but, I still have energy and dreams. Tuscany is brimming with possibilities: a variety of terroir and grape blend alternatives. This is why we've decided to set up wineries in Montalcino and Bolgheri. Antinori's growth over the past few decades is unparalleled. The biggest problems he has encountered are the varying quality of grapes or, in the worst cases, false points of origin. This is why his company has focused on purchasing more of its own vineyards in Tuscany as well as elsewhere in Italy and abroad. Antinori owns a total of 2,000 hectares of vineyards in Italy, 1,200 of which are located in Tuscany. These figures make Antinori the world's largest winemaker, who produces his wines exclusively using grapes from his own vineyards. This is no longer a question of small-scale production; indeed, Antinori has taken an entirely new approach in the marketing of his wines. When the same brand offers wines ranging in price from 8 to 100 euros, caution should not be thrown to the wind. This is surely a challenge that Antinori's daughters will face in the future. In wine circles small is generally considered to be desirable, while 'commercial' wine production is less so, thus easily robbing a wine of its authenticity. Paolo De Marchi Luciano Sandrone is a small-scale producer, who has made an impression on the wine world, above all, by the exceptional quality of his wines. The man is the epitome of humility, a down-to-earth farmer of vines whose Barolos are among the most sought-after in the world. Sandrone has managed to achieve what other top vintners should aspire to. Indeed, since 1996 Sandrone has withheld 30% of his production stock in order to sell them later as mature vintages. This is precisely what should be done to ensure the long-term maturation of Nebbiolos, thus making it possible to realise the true potential of the wines. No place like away from home Traditionally, the reputation and styles of wine regions are created on domestic markets. The renaissance of Italian wines, however, was helped a great deal by international wine markets. It is astonishing to find that a majority of high-quality producers' wines are exported. Luciano Sandrone explains: -Italy still isn't a proper market for expensive wines like the Barolo and Barbaresco. Locals drink the more affordable Piedmontese wines, such as the Dolcetto or Barbera. The transition from the mass consumption of cheaper wines to a situation where people are willing to pay tens of euros for a bottle will take at least one more generation. 66 F I N E Changing of the guard All four revolutionaries are reaching the age where successors are being groomed to carry on in the footsteps of the masters. Fortunately all four have found their successors from within their respective families. All three of Antinori's daughters have decided to throw their lot in with the family's wine empire. They are also the first women in the nearly one thousand year history of the family business to assume leadership roles in its operation. Will this new matriarchy bring about major changes in Antinori?

-I'm very pleased about the whole situation. As the father of three daughters I wasn't at all sure whether I would be able to find a successor within the family. However, fortunately, this was the decision they made. The wine world is a friendly place. This product and business are easy to love. Women are, in general, outstanding employees. I can say the same thing about my daughters. They have both the intelligence and passion needed in this business, says Antinori, glowing with paternal pride. Paolo De Marchi's son has already worked as a winemaker on joint Proprietà Sperino projects, and Luciano Sandrone's children Luca and Barbara have been involved in the business for a long time. Angelo Gaja has three children: two adult daughters, Gaia and Rey, and a 13-year-old son. Gaia Gaja, who holds a business degree, handles Gaja's marketing and PR. She talks about her siblings: -My sister has studied both winemaking and psychology. Time will only tell which profession she'll decide on. Whatever my brother ends up doing, right now he's still focusing all his attention on kicking a football around! Angelo Gaja adds his views on his children's career choices: -There is no one right way to get your children to take over the family business. The desire has to come from them. I can only give my children the best possible cards to play for the future. They don't have to work for Gaja just to make me happy. They're more than welcome to join us here if it will make them happy! New traditions If anyone, these gentlemen have been the challengers and reformers of tradition. The guardian of 26 generations of Antinori family history, Marquis Piero Antinori feels that respecting existing traditions and building new ones are both equally important. Paolo De Marchi crystallises this thought nicely: -Traditions are transitions. Otherwise, they'd be history. It is easy to agree with this last sentiment, as one would be hard-pressed to find a foursome, which so impressively combined old and created new traditions that encompassed entire wine regions. 67 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly

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69 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly "Traditionally, the reputation and styles of wine regions are created on domestic markets. The renaissance of Italian wines, however, was helped a great deal by international wine markets." ( photo taken in Tuscany)

Barolo Le Vigne 2002, Luciano Sandrone 92 p (EA), 94 p (PN) A refined, mature medium brownish-red colour. A bold, rustic and lively aroma, tinged with hints of tar and rose. Robust structure, whose ample viscous mouthfeel works with the high acidity. Elegant, mature tannin structure and long, balanced finish. Cepparello 2003, Isole e Olena 90 p (EA) Nose dominated by an etheric perfume and spicy liquorice. The ripe range of berry aromas is open, but not very complex. The full, powdery tannic structure of Sangiovese is very much present. Oak aromas linger in the finish. Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2000, Luciano Sandrone 94 p (EA), 93 p (PN) Cepparello 2001, Isole e Olena 93 p (EA) A maturing, brick-red colour. Toasted, exceedingly charming nose. The body of this classic vintage is silky smooth and exceptionally refined, but backed up by a muscular tannic structure. A long finish, full of toasty and dark berry nuances. Balance now just coming into its own for drinking. Brownish, medium deep colour. Delightfully elegant and maturing floral nose, enriched by tar and asphalt aromas. A slight hint of oak. A stylish, solid tannic foundation. Otherwise, the mouthfeel is round and silky. An extremely vivacious wine that opens in the glass, providing a new experience with each scenting. A powerful delivery following a reserved and feminine first impression. Collezione De Marchi Syrah 2003, Isole e Olena 88 p (EA) Deep bluish hue. Youthful, meaty nose, seasoned with black pepper and herbs. Suitable developing earthiness. A full-bodied wine with mature tannin. Well-made and typical for the variety, but the lack of original character makes for a run-of-the-mill experience. Barolo 2001, Angelo Gaja 90 p (EA) Deep brown, iridescent colour. Nose strong with a cool touch of perfume. A tinge of tar and dark cherries give the wine depth. Excellent velvety mouthfeel, with just the right acidic brightness and a distinct tannic edge. A well-made, very concentrated and modernish Barolo. Barbaresco 1995, Angelo Gaja 91 p (EA) Collezione De Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Isole e Olena, 92 p (EA) Mature, brick-red colour. Bouquet already redolent with tertiary aromas: truffles and musk in addition to dried fruits. Softened tannic structure, but the fruitiness also feels somewhat dry. Acidity enlivens this warming, alcoholic wine. A surprisingly masculine wine, which needs more balance. No more significant cellaring potential. Maturing deep garnet colour. A cool, elegant aroma, reminiscent of blackcurrant and green pepper. The flavour has solid tannic backbone. The Cabernet Sauvignon's green aromas extend into the flavour. Suitably rich fruitiness and long finish. Isole e Olena Vin Santo 1999 92 p Sperss 2001, Angelo Gaja 89 p (EA ) (EA) Intense, decidedly roasted and deep colour. Alcohol and tannin seem more up front than in a Barolo of the same vintage. A fruity and straightforward wine, which must be drunk very soon. Brash and ample, this wine lacks true finesse and complexity. A medium deep, bright amber colour. The toasty and nutty aroma is accentuated by a slight oakiness. A soft and sweet raisin charachter can be detected in the full-bodied and concentrated flavour. The proper acidity and residual sugar give the wine a refreshing character. Long nutty finish. Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2004 88 p (EA) De Marchi's Chianti Classico has not only Sangiovese and Canaiolo, but also a touch of Syrah. The aromatic nose is refreshing with cherry aromas and just the right spicy edge. A hint of oak can still be made out in the nose. An elegant, coolly distant and restrained style, in which the wine's fruitiness lingers in the wings and its tannin and acid structure take front stage. Still holds the promise of balance - this vintage bodes well for the future of this elegant wine. 70 F I N E

Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2004 86p (EA) Youthful magenta colour. Consisting mostly of Sangiovese, this wine also contains Merlot and two per cent Syrah. The presentation is stylishly modern, with fresh berry tones and fruitiness. Plum aromas and a dusty and herbal nose. The flavour is medium-bodied and balanced. Mature tannins and moderate acidity make the wine eminently approachable. Antinori Tignanello 2003 89p (EA) Antinori Solaia 2003 90p Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 89p (EA) This 100% Sangiovese has a mature fruity and elegant nose of dark berries, sour cherries and liquorice. The flavour is still rather juvenile and the mild oak aroma has not yet been fully integrated in the flavour. Excellent robust tannic structure and lifting acidity. (EA) Deep, dark youthful colour. The nose is more guarded than the Tignanello, spicy and seasoned with liquorice. The flavour is powerful and the structure is flawless. The aroma of new oak is emphasised in the long finish. A well-made Cabernet-dominant wine made in the international style, it still lacks a certain amount of personality. Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2001 90p (EA) Maturing nose of dark berries and leather, with a dash of dustiness and floral aromas. Elegant mouthfeel: solidly tannic and acidic, with a very long finish. A stylish, classic vintage, which needs several more years of bottle maturation. Antinori Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2003 89p (EA) A rich, deep colour. A nose of dark berries accentuated by tobacco. Made using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in the international style, the wine has an extremely big and robust oaky flavour. The long fruity flavour and balanced, concentrated mouthfeel could, however, use more elegance and character. Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 91p (EA) In addition to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were also used in the Marchese Antinori. Their influence can be sensed in the wine: green pepper and coffee aromas. A maturing nose, but the flavour is still rather juvenile. Excellent harmonious mouthfeel, in which the ample acidity and tannins form the backbone of the wine. Best enjoyed after 5-10 years of cellaring. Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 1983 92p (EA) Mature brick red colour. In addition to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo were used in the wine. Promising nose of tar, coffee, herbs and perfume. The flavour closely mirrors the nose, even if the intensity leaves a little to be desired. Properly muted tannins and a straightforward, elegant acidity. An enjoyable wine, which will not improve any further with bottle maturation. 71 I T A L Y Fi n e It a ly Deep, dark red colour. This hot year Tignanello loses some of its elegance and original character. A soft and round berried nose, with tinges of tobacco and cherry. The palate is full-bodied and punctuated with soft, robust tannins. Although it needs time to reach its full potential, this Tignanello is not one of the superior vintages due to its soft structure.

PILOT'S WATCH HAND-WOUND INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC DA VINCI AUTOMATIC PORTOFINO HAND-WOUND

The Portuguese Hand-Wound. Just like the original from 1939 you never owned because your grandfather didn't just love sailing the seas. The IWC Vintage Collection: If you could only dream of owning this watch back then, here's your second chance to make that dream a reality. IWC is celebrating its 140th anniversary with an homage to its classic design and has reinterpreted the six legendary timepieces that founded today's watch families. The models bear impressive testimony to IWC's philosophy: "Probus Scafusia" ­ good, solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen. Ticking away inside the Ingenieur Automatic, the Aquatimer Automatic and the Da Vinci Automatic are the reliable IWC-manufactured movements from the 80000-calibre family with Pellaton winding. This pawl-winding mechanism, designed by Albert Pellaton especially for IWC, is also equipped with a shock absorption system. For the Pilot's Watch Hand-Wound, the Portuguese Hand-Wound and the Portofino Hand-Wound, history called for a pocket watch movement with a manual winding system. The result was a modern movement based on the legendary IWC 98 calibre. A see-through sapphire glass back cover provides a view of the nickel-silver three-quarter plate and the characteristic index. Despite their technical differences, all six models have one thing in common: their ancestors are milestones in the history of IWC, and are treasured and collected by watch connoisseurs the world over. When F. A. Jones moved from Boston to Switzerland in 1868 to found the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, he was fulfilling a dream. Now you have a chance to do the same. With the IWC Vintage Collection in stainless steel, or in platinum limited editions. IWC. Engineered for men. IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland. www.iwc.com.

text: Ja n- Eri k Pauls on photos: Pe k k a Nu i k ki 74 F I N E

O nce a year, a small group of wine professionals gather together in England to closely examine one Bordeaux vintage. Amongst them are experienced wine traders, journalists, and a few Masters of Wine. This is a report from the 1990 vintage tasting. times, and with regard to other weather conditions, the year was trouble free. The market hardly believed that there was another super vintage maturing in the barrels. At first, the interest was small, partly due to the depression and partly because the stocks were still full of the good vintages of 1980s. This led to an almost 20 per cent drop in prices compared to the en-primeur trade of 1989. Whoever bought then can be considered lucky, because the wines have developed magnificently. With regard to the volume, 1990 was a huge vintage. In the 1980s, records were beaten year after year. It is, however, a mistake to believe that vintages were enormous everywhere in Bordeaux. The most ambitious wineries decreased their production with green harvesting and strict choice. Thus, the number of bottles entering the market under the name Grand Vin was often notably smaller than in 1982. The summer was one of the warmest and driest of all TASTING FLIGHT I / MÉDOC The star of the group and one of the hottest tips in the vintage is the magnificent Sociando-Mallet. Other wines are good and offer a fine drink, except for Cantemerle, which does not come close to the quality of the 1989 vintage. Wine Sociando-Mallet Poujeaux La Lagune Chasse-Spleen Cantemerle My points 17 14.5 16.5 15 12 Jury´s points 15.77 15.67 15.27 14.97 13.73 FLIGHT III / MARGAUX This group includes a number of wines that are very drinkable but not at all exciting. Rausan-Ségla was the best again, and Malescot was surprisingly charming. The poor placing of Château d'Issan and Brane-Cantenac was not a surprise. Wine Malescot St. Exupéry Pavillon Rouge Rausan-Ségla Prieuré-Lichine Monbrison Palmer du Tertre Labégorce-Zédé Giscours Lascombes Braene-Cantenac d'Issan My points 16.5 15.5 17 16 15.55 16.5 16 15 14.5 14.5 13 Jury's points 16.03 15.96 15.70 15.63 15.63 15.50 15.13 15.13 14.20 13.80 13.30 FLIGHT II GRAVES Once again, Pape Clément proved the potential of the vineyard. La Mission Haut-Brion has all the richness of a concentrated fruit, but otherwise it is slightly lighter than the grand Mission of 1989. Other wines in this group are a bit tight and do not attract very much attention. Wine Pape Clément La Mission Haut-Brion Domaine de Chevalier Fieuzal Haut-Bailly Bouscaut My points 18.5 18 16 15 14.5 14.5 Jury's points 16.87 16.87 15.90 15.50 15.50 14.67 Final consumer prices incl. taxes Autumn 1991 1992 1994 1995 1997 2000 2005 2008 Latour m 35 m 45 m 58 m 84 m 220 m 320 m 580 m 910 Mouton m 35 m 40 m 40 m 45 m 85 m 155 m 160 m 270 75 B O R D E A U X Fi n e Vi n ta g e

FLIGHT IV / ST. JULIEN The wines of St. Julien were all elegant and offered great pleasure. Bewildered, I stated that Langoa-Barton was the best. However, I thought that its big brother Léoville was slightly more dense and elegant. Léoville-Las-Cases in its normal form is a fantastic wine, and its poor rating today was due to an atypical bottle. Besides impure Beychevelle and feeble Ducru-Beaucaillon, there were no other disappointments. Wine Langoa-Barton Gruaud-Larose Léoville Barton Branaire Clos de Marquis Talbot Lagrange Léoville Poyferré St. Pierre Ducru-Beaucaillou Léoville-Las-Cases Beychevelle My points 17 17 18.5 18 16.5 16 17 15.5 17 15 15 13.5 Jury's points 17.37 16.67 16.20 15.93 15.63 15.57 15.53 15.50 15.43 15.00 12.90 11.37 FLIGHT VI / ST. ESTÈPHE The year 1990 was very successful for St. Estèphe. Lovely, dense wines with wellbalanced fruit, without a trace of the tightness that is sometimes present in St. Estèphe wines. A major talking point in this flight was how Montrose would do, after all, Maryland's wine guru, Parker, had given it a fantastic 100 points. It is indeed a marvellous wine; dense, savoury and long. It seems that Montrose has the best terroir in St. Estèphe and that it is producing quality class wines again, as it did in the 1920s, 1940s and 1950s. Calon-Ségur has produced its best wine since 1961, and as always, Cos feels very elegant. Haut-Marbuzet has an exotic and enjoyable aroma. Wine Montrose Cos d'Estournel Calon-Ségur Haut Marbuzet Les Ormes-de-Pez My points 18 17.5 18 17 15.5 Jury's points 16.97 16.93 16.66 16.50 15.27 A major talking point in this flight was how Montrose would do ­ after all, Maryland's wine guru Parker had given it fantastic 100 points. A major talking point in this flight was how Montrose would do­after all, Maryland's wine guru, Parker, had given it a fantastic 100 points. FLIGHT V / PAUILLAC Pauillac's wines have always represented the exemplar of great Bordeaux wines for me. Even though three premier crus were evaluated as a separate group, they formed an excellent flight. I placed the almost exotic Lynch-Bages slightly before the very concentrated Pichon-Baron and Grand-Puy-Lacoste, of which I have tasted better bottles. The perfectionist producer of Pichon Lalande May de Lencquesaing, had explained to me some time before that, due to her husband's serious illness, she had not been able to monitor all production as usual. Perhaps that is why the wine did not reach its usual level in the tasting. Wine Pichon-Baron Lynch-Bages Clerc-Milon d'Armailhacq Carruades de Lafite Les Forts de Latour Grand-Puy-Lacoste Haut-Bages-Libéral Pichon-Lalande Haut Batailley My points 18 18.5 17 18 18 17.5 18 16.5 17 16 Jury's points 17.43 16.80 16.40 16.37 16.33 16.07 16.00 15.47 15.40 14.30 FLIGHT VII / ST. EMILION A lot happened in St. Emilion in the 1970s and early 1980s. Wines were usually thin and dull. Thanks to good work, the wines now have beautiful fruitiness and richness. The best St. Emilion in 1990 is Cheval Blanc. I had privately bought a case of half bottles, and I was so curious that as soon as I got them in the spring of 1992 I tasted one. Though I am not a friend of young wines, it was a revelation. The wine was so enjoyable and seductive that I have drunk twenty bottles of it so far. If I had to convert a person who does not enjoy wine, this would be the wine to succeed with. Very mature and sexy. Beauséjour-Duffau, TertreRôteboeuf and Angelus were lovely as well, all aiming for a similar, modern style. Ausone was surprisingly fruity and dense without any of the hardness that usually disturbs it. I have enjoyed Troplong-Mondot and Figeac from better bottles, and they were a disappointment. Wine Cheval Blanc Beauséjour-Duffau Angelus Pavie Tertre Rôteboeuf La Dominique Canon-La-Gaffelière Ausone Figeac L'Arrosée Pavie-Decesse Magdelaine My points 20 19 17.5 16.5 17.5 16.5 17 18 15 17 15 16 Jury's points 18.17 17.22 17.03 16.27 16.17 16.13 16.03 15.83 15.70 15.50 15.27 15.27 Bordeaux / Best Vintages 1870, 1874, 1899, 1900, 1920, 1921, 1924, 1928, 1929, 1934, 1937, 1945, 1947, 76 F I N E

Wonderful flight. Pétrus was the greatest wine for me, very well-balanced and multi-dimensional, but it needs a few more years. Le Pin has a charmingly open and wide aroma, and it is the most elegant of all the Pomerols. Great wines were also Clinet, Latour-à-Pomerol, Trotanoy, L'Église-Clinet and La Fleur-de-Gay as well as L'Enclos, which I evaluated higher than most of the other evaluators. Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan, which are usually among the best in evaluations, were now disappointments for me. Wine Le Pin Pétrus Trotanoy Clinet La Fleur-de-Gay L'Evangile Lafleur L'Eglise-Clinet Latour-à-Pomerol La Conseillante La Fleur-Pétrus Vieux Château Certan Gazin Bon-Pasteur Certan de May L'Enclos Le Gay Pensées de La Fleur M y points 19 19.5 17.5 18.5 17.5 16 16.5 17.5 18.5 15.5 16.5 15 16.5 16 16 18 15.5 14.5 Jury's points 18.70 18.37 17.73 17.70 17.63 16.73 16.70 16.40 16.37 16.23 16.13 15.97 15.93 15.83 15.10 14.77 14.20 13.53 FLIGHT VIII/ PREMIER CRU This was not the first time I have placed Haut-Brion in first place. Jancis Robinson was also present. She told us about a tasting where she and Michael Broadbent and Edmund Penning-Rowsell, among others, had evaluated all eight premiers (including Pétrus, Cheval Blanc and Ausone). Seven of eight jury members voted Haut-Brion as the best wine. Incredibly elegant and charming, it already provides great pleasure. It is hard to explain why Haut-Brion, except for the 1989 vintage, is often cheaper than other premiers, especially on the secondary market. Lafite is elegant, full of dense fruit and richness, which gives confidence in its future. Latour is very grand and concentrated but does not sing in its best voice at the moment as it did a few years ago. We will have to wait a few more years to experience the full splendour of this wine. Margaux, as well, is not as good as it could be when at its best. Certainly worth waiting. Mouton is the poorest of the great five in every evaluation, and it will probably stay so. It has a beautiful, savoury aroma and good fruit, but it lacks density and length. Wine Latour Lafite-Rothschild Margaux Haut-Brion Mouton-Rothschild My points 18.5 19 18 19.5 17 Jury's points 18.37 18.33 18.27 18.17 17.63 Indeed one of the great vintages of the century! In conclusion, I can warmly recommend the 1990 vintage. The wines have wonderful fruitiness, soft tannins and well-balanced acidity in common. Almost all of the wines are drinkable already. Don't be too hasty, however: the best wines offer enjoyment for a long time. The balance of the wines is so good that you do not have to worry about their durability. The left and right banks were both as successful as they were in 1982. Many small vineyards produced magnificent wines as well. Indeed one of the great vintages of the century! Bordeaux 1990 TOP 10 Le Pin Latour Pétrus Lafite-Rothschild Margaux Cheval Blanc Haut-Brion Trotanoy Clinet La Fleur-de-Gay 19 18.5 19.5 19 18 20 19.5 17.5 18.5 17.5 18.70 18.37 18.37 18.33 18.27 18.17 18.17 17.73 17.70 17.63 1949, 1953, 1959, 1961, 1964, 1970, 1975, 1982, 1986, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2003. 2005 77 B O R D E A U X Fi n e Vi n ta g e Wine Clos St. Martin Canon Troplong-Mondot Beauséjour-Becot Larmande Clos de l'Oratoire My points 14.5 16.5 15 14 14.5 15 Jury's points 15.27 15.07 14.57 14.57 14.07 13.47 FLIGHT IX / POMEROL

text: Juha Lihtonen and Pekka Nuikki The Italian winemaking tradition is considered to be one of the oldest in the world. However, when it comes to making fine wines, it is one of the youngest players in the Old World. With the exception of a few private producers, the making of fine wines did not begin until the 1960s. This marked the beginning of the Italian winemaking revolution, during which time the importance of vintage grew to play a more significant role. Today, Italy's fine wines are among the most sought-after in the world. However, the largest demand for vintage wines is limited to the regions of Piedmont (Barolos and Barbarescos) and Tuscany (Chianti Classicos, Brunellos and Super-Tuscans). We've put together a compendium that encompasses the past five decades, to see how the making of these wines has changed over the years, what vintages they offer and what bottle maturation potential each wine has at the moment. Italy's first fine wine s In relation to its millennia-old winemaking traditions, Italy's fine wines represent an astonishingly young culture. The quality classification of Italian wines has proven more controversial than that of any other country. The quality classifications legislated in the 1960s were based more on the authorisation of existing production methods than the actual classification of wine quality. Instead of quality, these methods focused on quantity and the highest-yield varieties. Naturally, the importance of vintage was essential to the successful production of wine, but even then a good vintage was determined based on crop yield. Although production was generally focused on quantity, there were producers in Italy whose intent was to make highquality wines rather than high-volume wines. Some of the first Italian fine wines include the Biondi-Santi's Brunellos, which laid the groundwork for producing fine wines already in 1888. The next generation of fine wines were produced by Giovanni Conterno, the creator of the legendary Barolo Montefortino 1920. In 1928 Niccolo Antinori gave the world its first fine wine from Chianti, the Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva. In 1931 the first fine white wines were introduced, when Antinori launched his Villa Antinori Bianco and Pieropan introduced the first estate-bottled Soave. The genesis of fine wines is partly the result of Italian emigration to the New World: New York, São Paulo and Buenos Aires. Emigrants soothed their homesickness with wines from their former country, whilst proudly introduc- ing them to new market areas. People were prepared to pay more for these premium export wines than what would be paid in Italy. The low prices of the domestic market were a consequence of the structure of wine production. Italian wine regions were formed by large landowners, nobility, who rented their vineyards out to tenant growers. In this arrangement the tenant grower was entitled to half of his production output in order to earn a living. Also known as mezzadria, this system encouraged tenant growers to plant tough, high-yield varieties, which were resistant to various diseases. Due to the high volume of production, the market prices for wine remained low, providing no incentive for vineyard owners to invest in their plantations or improving quality. When Piedmont was annexed by the House of Savoy, 78 F I N E

Italy's Italy's first fine wines of plantations into small plots made it possible for growers to purchase their own land, and they produced wines exclusively for themselves to sell. Interest in developing quality was also for their benefit. Improving the quality of Italian wines also required comprehensive reform: new production approaches, better knowledge of the terroir concept and grape clones, and new technologies. Pioneering reformers include Piedmont's qualityconscious producers along with a few members of Tuscan nobility, all of whom sought solutions for improving quality from France: Burgundy, Champagne and Bordeaux. The more goal-oriented development of quality did not begin until the 1960s. Prior to the period of real development in quality, the top vintages in Tuscany were: 1920, 1921, 1923, 1924, 1927, 1929, 1931, 1945, 1947 and 1955. Prime years in Piedmont were: 1931, 1945, 1947, 1952, 1958 and 1959. the distribution of land areas and production structure was, compared to Tuscany, in a better position in terms of quality development long before the 1960s. In Piedmont the subdivision The following is a list of the finest wines we have experienced from vintages before the 1960s: Piedmont 1892 Barolo 1892 Mg ­ unknown producer 1921 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 1924 Luigi Calissano & Figli Barolo 1936 Fontanafredda Barolo 1937 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1943 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1945 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1945 Fontanafredda Barolo 1945 Fratelli Minuto Barbaresco Riseva 1947 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1949 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1949 Pio Cesare Barolo 1951 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 1952 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1952 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1955 Fontanafredda Barolo 1958 Pio Cesare Barolo (PN 83 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 86 p.) (PN 85 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 94 p.) (PN 97 p.) (PN 94 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 95 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 98 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 94 p.) Piedmont 1958 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1959 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1959 Gaja Barbaresco 1959 Pio Cesare Barolo 1959 Fontanafredda Barolo (PN 90 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 88 p.) Tuscany 1891 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (PN 99 p.) 1925 Brolio Vin Santo (PN 88 p.) 1925 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (PN 93 p.) 1945 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (JL 89 p.) 1951 Antinori Vin Santo (PN 94 p.) 1955 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (JL 90 p.) 1957 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (JL 90 p.) 1958 Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Gallo Nero Riserva (PN 85 p.) 1959 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva (PN 89 p.) revolution revolutionary times v landowners, who had no farming experience, running the plantations. It was thought that the solution to this problem lay in a quality classification system, which was enacted in 1963. The law was drafted on the basis of production, taking into account the existing volume cultivated. This did nothing towards improving the quality of wines. Indeed, the inefficacy of the law was already evident at the outset, when in 1966 the first wine to receive the DOC was a Tuscan white wine, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The following year, the entire Chianti region was granted the DOC. Optimistically, producers planted 7 000 hectares of new plantations in the Chianti region from 1967 to 1972. As a result, only 10 per cent of the cultivated area in the region comprised vines planted before 1964. Nearly all Tuscan plantations were cultivated with low-grade, high-yield Rio Sangiovese clones, whose sugar, acidity and phenolic concentrations were significantly lower than those of other permitted Sangiovese clones. This in itself prevented the production of fine wines. At the same time, a handful of wine producers observed the situation with shock and dismay. 79 I T A L Y After having prevailed for centuries, the mezzadria system collapsed with ever increasing urbanisation. Labour disappeared as tenant growers surrendered their plantations, leaving the wine estates in a terrible position, with the Fi n e Vi n ta g e

They looked to France for new ideas on how to improve quality and decided to blaze their own trail. The Burgundian cru approach, improved vineyard hygiene, and shorter ripening periods to prevent oxidation and volatile acids were key factors in improving quality. Italy's first cru was produced by Prunotto Beppe Colla, whose Barolo Bussia was introduced in 1964. In addition to Prunotto, Renato Ratti, Barolo's Borgogno and Aldo Conterno and Barbaresco's Angelo Gaja were the representative proponents and pioneers of fine wines, establishing the principles for producing them in Piedmont during the 1960s. The legendary perfection of the 1961 vintage was tantamount to a starting shot for the new way. This hot year put Piedmont to the test. Aldo Conterno recalls how he had to put ice cubes in the fermentation vat to keep the wine cool and ensure its quality. The end result, however, was an exceptional vintage. Tuscany also enjoyed great success, if not of the exceptional variety. It was the ideal weather conditions of the following year­1962­that guaranteed Tuscany an outstanding vintage. Although Piedmont was unable to achieve that level of success, it was still a good year for the region. The finest vintage of the decade, however, was 1964, which was superlative in all areas. Following in its wake was the 1967, which was excellent in Tuscany and extremely good in Piedmont. Tuscany was blessed with one more excellent vintage­the 1968­before the decade was out. It was during this outstanding year that winemaker Enzo Morganti created the first 100 per cent Sangiovese "super vino da tavola", the Vigorello. This wine represents the first-ever Super Tuscan. The following vintages should be avoided: 1960, 1963, 1965 and 1966. Our favourite wines from the 1960s: Piedmont 1961 Gaja Barbaresco 1961 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1961 Marchesi di Barolo 1961 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1961 Pio Cesare Barbaresco 1962 Fontanafredda Barolo 1962 Gaja Barbaresco 1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1964 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1964 Fratelli Minuto Barbaresco Riserva Speciale 1965 Gaja Barbaresco 1966 Gaja Barbaresco 1967 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1967 Gaja Barbaresco 1967 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Delizia Riserva 1967 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Riserva Speciale 1967 Fontanafredda Barolo Riserva 1967 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1967 Pio Cesare Barbaresco (PN 94 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 92 p.) (JL 91 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 87 p.) (PN 95 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 93 p.) (PN 85 p.) (PN 98 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 88 p.) (JL 87 p.) (PN 86 p.) Piedmont 1968 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo 1969 Giacomo Conterno Barolo 1969 Gaja Barbaresco 1969 Marchese Villadoria Barolo Riserva Speciale (PN 93 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 86 p.) (PN 85 p.) Tuscany 1961 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva 1961 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1964 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva 1966 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 1967 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Il Poggione 1967 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva 1967 Brunello di Montalcino Fattoria dei Barbi Riserva 1968 Sassicaia 1968 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (PN 88 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 94 p., JL 94 p.) (JL 92 p., PN 88 p.) (PN 94 p.) (JL 87 p., PN 89 p.) (PN 87 p.) (PN 95 p., JL 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) Other 1965 Montresor Amarone Classico Superiore Recioto della Valpolicella (PN 89 p.) 1969 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella (PN 89 p.) The French assistance e giovese Rio was not only a poor clone, it also ruined the reputation of the Sangiovese grape. The legendary Biondi-Santi was the very epitome of the evolved Brunello variety, and its status was not threatened. Other producers, however, were forced to find new ways to stand out from the crowd, not only bringing new ideas from France to refine their wines, but also varieties. The most legendary of these was Mario Incisa della Rochetta of the Tenuta San Guido estate in Bolgheri. He had brought Château Lafite Cabernet Sauvignon cuttings from Bordeaux during the Second World War. He believed that they would be better suited to the stony soil of his plantation than common Italian varieties. In 1972 della Rochetta introduced Italy's first Cabernet Sauvignon­the Sassicaia 1968­which later became a symbol of the Italian wine revolution. Piero Antinori, along with his winemaker Giacomo Tachis and his mentor, the great French oenologist, Emile Peynaud, assisted in making the Sassicaia. The real international breakthrough for the Sassicaia came in 1978 in London at a Decanter Magazine Cabernet Sauvignon tasting, when the Sassicaia 1972 was picked as the best Cabernet of the tasting. Della Rochetta could barely comprehend that his approach to winemaking had changed the entire face of Italian wine production and that he was the true instigator of the wine revolution in Italy. Piedmont got a head start in the development of fine wines in the 1960s, but in the 1970s the attention shifted to Tuscany. Whereas producers in Piedmont focused on tidying up plantations and production, the leaders of the Tuscan revolution faced an even greater challenge. The new quality classification was limited to only two wine regions and commonly used San- 80 F I N E

The French assistance His example was followed in 1971 by Piero Antinori, with his Cabernet Sauvignon vino da tavola blend, the Tignanello, and Conte Ugo Contini Bonacossi of the Villa di Capezzana in Carmignano. He also brought the Lafite Cabernet Sauvignon vines to his own estate in Carmingnano. His work can be considered exemplary, as the DOC classification granted to Carmingnano in 1975 allowed for blends to use a maximum of 10 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. This was the first time an international variety was approved for use in blending DOC wines in Italy. Another major pioneer worth mentioning is the developer of the modern Chianti Classico and owner of Montevertine, Sergio Manetti, who introduced the first 100 per cent Sangiovese Chianti Classico, Le Pergole Torte in 1977. The wine was not granted the Chianti DOC due to its grape base, thus requiring its re-designation as a Vino da Tavola. At the same time, Angelo Gaja raised widespread ire in Piedmont when, based on a soil analysis conducted in Montepellier, he planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines on one of his plantations in Barbaresco. Even though Italy had quickly garnered a great deal of international renown with its modern, worldclass table wines, Italian politicians turned their backs on the trend. Like a counterstrike against the rebellious producers, an extension to the backward DOC classification was. In 1979 the law was made amended to include a new top-tier classification, the DOCG, in which production methods are even more restricted. Regions which would have already earned this classification from the beginning were then raised to this level: Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. When discussing vintages from the 1970s it be can said that 1970 itself produced good wines in both Tuscany and Piedmont. This major crop year was also characterised by its high quality. However, the best vintages from the 1970s in both Piedmont and Tuscany are 1971 and 1978. In 1978, although Piedmont suffered under an exceptionally brutal heat wave, it still managed to produce outstanding wines. In addition to these, 1974 turned out in all respects to be a very good year in Piedmont, whereas 1977 produced some of the finest vintages of the decade in Tuscany. Despite the fact that other regions in Tuscany turned in less than stellar results, the 1975 Brunello was excellent. Our favourite wines from the 1970s: Piedmont 1970 Gaja Barolo Gromis 1970 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí Tildin 1971 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Delizia Riserva 1971 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1974 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia Riserva 1974 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1974 Gaja Barbaresco 1974 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1974 Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Abbazia dell'Annunziata 1976 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí Tildin 1976 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1977 Gaja Barbaresco 1978 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi 1978 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1979 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1979 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi (JL 92 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 93 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 96 p.) (JL 95 p.) (PN 93 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 94 p.) (JL 89 p.) (JL 93 p.) (PN 91 p.) Tuscany 1971 Tignanello 1971 Sassicaia 1974 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 1974 Sassicaia 1975 Castello Poggio Alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 1975 Sassicaia 1975 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva 1975 Tignanello 1975 Avignonesi Vin Santo 1977 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 1977 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 1978 Sassicaia 1978 Solaia 1978 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva 1978 Tignanello 1979 Sassicaia 1979 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1979 Solaia (JL 92 p., PN 94 p.) (JL 87 p., PN 89 p.) (JL 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 88 p.) (PN 88 p.) (JL 90 p.) (PN 86 p.) (JL 89 p., PN 94 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 89 p.) (JL 93 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 88 p.) Tuscany 1970 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 1970 Tignanello Chianti Classico Vigneto Tignanello 1970 Tenuta Poggio Alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 1970 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva (PN 95 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 87 p.) (PN 87 p., JL 87 p.) Other 1975 Amarone Recioto Riserva delle Cantine Private Mazzi (PN 88 p.) With the exception of the very finest examples, wines produced prior to the 1980s have lost their edge. Although these will not improve with any further bottle maturation, the better wines may retain their character for another ten years. 81 I T A L Y Fi n e Vi n ta g e

the makers' decade ally used, temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for wine production, and malolactic fermentation were combined with increasing assuredness in the production of international and domestic varieties. However, even with all of this underway, the assistance of a top oenologist was still very much needed. Tachis' success as the creator of Super Tuscans provided him with the impetus to continue working on the development of new table wines. A collaboration with Antinori resulted in the super-wine Solaia in 1982. Soon after this, Tachis became a consultant to assist vineyards all over Italy. Along with Tachis, Montevetrine's winemaking consultant Giulio Gambelli was among the country's most highly esteemed oenologists. They laid the foundation for the next wave of winemaking gurus: Franco Bernabei, Maurizio Castelli and Vittorio Fiore. The early 1980s produced rather modest vintages. Incisa della Rochetta, however, managed to make an excellent vintage ­ the Sassicaia 1980 (JL 90 p.) Otherwise, the top vintage 1982 proved to be the first very good year of the decade. In Tuscany 1982 was a hot, sunny and dry year. In Piedmont grapes were blessed with light rains just before the October harvest. Both regions produced very high quality wines. The Barolos and Barbarescos still have the potential for further bottle maturation. The 1980s were characterised by the drive to produce better wines through a boundarybreaking, experimental programme of winemaking that started in the 1970s. The implementation of methods already used by Angelo Gaja in the 1960s proliferated as vineyards updated their equipment. Smaller French oak casks, which replaced the old barrels tradition- Our favourite wines from the 1982: Piedmont 1982 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1982 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi 1992 Gaja Barbaresco (JL 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) Tuscany 1982 Solaia 1982 Castello dei Rampello Sammarco 1982 Sassicaia 1982 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (PN 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) (JL 88 p.) (PN 87 p.) The following year, 1983, was an unstable one. In Piedmont although rains ruined the blooming phase, a dry end season saved the crop. The top producers succeeded in making a small quantity of excellent wines. In Tuscany the entire spring was mild and dry, thus guaranteeing a fairly early ripening of grapes. 1983 was especially favourable to the Chianti region, whilst in Montalcino the poor weather during the harvest lowered expectations. The wines are now at their prime drinkability, even if the best modern Chiantis could still do with more cellaring, along with the Barolos and Barbarescos. Our favourite wines from the 1983: Piedmont 1983 Gaja Barbaresco 1983 Gaja Darmagi (PN 90 p.) (PN 87 p.) Tuscany 1983 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 1983 Sassicaia 1983 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 1983 Villa Banfi Brunello di Montalcino (JL 88 p., PN 89 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 87 p.) (PN 88 p.) 1984 is only remembered for being the year that Chianti was promoted to DOCG. Nature gave the region her much-deserved attention: a cold start to the year and a rainy autumn. It was indeed ironic that the wines of top, quality-oriented Chianti Classico producers were classified at the same level as wicker-wrapped, mass-produced Chiantis. The year was a poor one everywhere in Italy except Sicily and Sardinia as well as the northernmost corners of Piedmont. 1985 more than made up for the weak year preceding it. An extremely cold winter ensured that the vines would enjoy a full hibernation, until a j y warm and dry spring woke them, well-rested, thus giving them the energy they would need for the varied summer weather. The dry autumn set the stage for the harvest of one of the best vintages of the decade, both in Piedmont and Tuscany. Although it had a low yield, 1985 was an outstanding vintage and is above all remembered for the genesis of modern wine production, particularly in Tuscany. Led by the Super Tuscans, this saw the beginning of rapid development in the production of modern fine wines. It also spawned a wine that has gone down in history as one of the world's finest ­ the Sassicaia 1985. Our favourite wines from the 1985: Piedmont 1985 Sassicaia 1985 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1985 Aldo Conterno Barolo 1985 Prunotto Barolo 1985 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1985 Gaja Barbaresco 82 F I N E Tuscany (JL 100 p., PN 100 p.) (PN 96 p.) (JL 95 p.) (JL 92 p.) (JL 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) 1985 Frescobaldi Mormoreto 1985 Solaia 1985 Summus Castello Banfi 1985 Tignanello 1985 Casa del Cervo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (EA 93 p.) (PN 93 p.) (PN 92 p.) (JL 93 p., PN 90 p.) (PN 88 p.)

Our favourite wines from the 1986: Piedmont 1986 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí Tildin 1986 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo (PN 91 p.) (JL 90 p.) Tuscany 1986 Sassicaia 1986 Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 1986 Michele Mascarello Barbaresco (PN 89 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 86 p.) Tuscany 1986 Castello di Ama Riserva La Casuccia 1986 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Merlot (JL 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) Other 1986 Granato (JL 91 p.) 1987 was a crop year that yielded average, rather short-lived wines. Following a cold winter, a dry, raw spring slowly brought vineyards to life. The entire summer and autumn were quite cool and dry, producing an average, but quality crop. In Tuscany the blooming phase occurred in magnificent weather until the rains at harvest time ruined what had been expected to be an excellent year. In Montalcino ripened grapes were harvested before the rains, thus resulting in a large crop of exceptional quality. However, the wines are presently at their best and will not improve in bottle maturation. The surprise of the year was the Castello di Ama L'Apparita Merlot 1987, when it placed first at a Swiss Merlot competition in 1992. The Château Petrus 1988 placed second. Our favourite wines from the 1987: Piedmont 1987 Gaja Darmagi 1987 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1987 Giacomo Damilano Barbaresco La Morra (PN 89 p.) (PN 87 p.) (PN 87 p.) Tuscany 1987 Castello di Ama L'Apparita Merlot 1987 Masseto 1987 Castello di Ama Riserva Vigneto La Casuccia (JL 95 p.) (PN 93 p.) (JL 90 p.) 1988 was an outstanding year in every respect, even if its crop yield was small. Piedmont struggled with chilly and rainy weather in the spring and early summer. However, beginning in July the weather became hot and dry, allowing the grapes to achieve their optimal ripeness, which was largely ruined by the rains that came at harvest time. As a result, the crop was small, but very high in quality. Tuscany was spared from the harvest rains, and a hot, dry summer made for an outstanding crop, even if it was the smallest in 25 years. Wines from this vintage can still mature favourably in the bottle for another ten years, but Sangiovese-dominated wines are in their prime right now. Our favourite wines from the 1988: Piedmont 1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1988 Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1988 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 1988 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo (PN 97 p.) (JL 90 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) Tuscany 1988 Sassicaia 1988 Masseto 1988 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto 1988 Solaia 1988 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 1988 Ornellaia (PN 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (JL 90 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) (PN 89 p.) 1989 was a low-yield and difficult year. Piedmont underwent a terrible ordeal in June when a hailstorm cut a swath across Barolo, destroying vineyards. Some producers lost as much as half of their crops, but both Barolo and Barbaresco still managed to produce small, high-quality crops. This vintage is generally considered to be the best for red wine. In Tuscany 1989 was one of the most widely varying on record. Some regions suffered from incessant rain, whilst others endured drought. Montalcino and Montepulciano fared the best. Indeed, these wines are generally light and fastmaturing. Our favourite wines from the 1989: Piedmont 1989 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1989 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche (PN 95 p., JL 95 p.) (PN 93 p.) 1989 Gaja Barolo Sperss 1989 Borgogno Barolo Riserva (PN 90 p.) (JL 87 p.) 83 I T A L Y Fi n e Vi n ta g e 1986 provided another excellent crop year right on the heels of 1985. Indeed, 1986 kept producers on tenterhooks. The second extremely cold winter in a row turned into a rainy spring. In May the whole of Italy was subjected to a heat wave, which was followed by variable summer weather and ruinous hail- storms in Piedmont. The most unfortunate producers lost their entire crops to the hail. Late summer and autumn were hot and dry. Chiantis and Super Tuscans enjoyed greater success than Montalcinos and Montepulcianos. In general these wines have matured quickly and are ready to drink right now.

the makers' decade e makers the Vino da Tavola category from the disgraceful Italian quality classification system. Conversely, a number of producers gave up their DOC or DOCG classifications and marketed their wines as IGTs, such as Angelo Gaja's Barbaresco and Barolo cru wines and Roberto Anselmi's Soave wines. Toward the end of the decade, the production of Italian wines had evolved to such an extent that each of the 20 wine producing regions boasted internationally competitive wines. Development of Southern Italian winemaking ushered in a golden era for Campanian, Apulian and Sicilian wines. The real gold fever, however, struck Tuscany's coastal regions, Bolgheri and Maremma. This development was largely brought about by the success of the Sassicaia, which was granted DOC status in 1994. 1990 was the ideal kickoff for this stunning decade. A hot and dry summer with cool nights and light rain set the stage for a small, but exceptional crop, perhaps the finest seen since the 1940s. Piedmont brought in an excellent crop for the third year in a row. However, the rains were distributed considerably more evenly in 1990. Tuscany enjoyed similar weather conditions, and, as in Piedmont, the grapes ripened earlier than usual. Overall, 1990 produced very elegant, nuanced, ripe fruited and concentrated wines, which still have great maturation potential. With the advent of the 1990s, Italian wine production finally entered the modern age. The pioneers of modern winemaking had succeeded in their efforts to show the world, not to mention politicians, the potential of Italian wine production. This was demonstrated in 1992 with the implementation of the new IGT classification, whose purpose was to lift the super wines out of Our favourite wines from the 1990: Piedmont 1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1990 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss (PN 95 p.) (PN 93 p.) (JL 95 p., PN 91 p.) Tuscany 1990 Solaia (PN 94 p.) 1990 Castello di Ama Riserva Vigneto Bellavista (JL 93 p.) 1990 Ornellaia (PN 92 p.) 1990 Pio Cesare Barolo (JL 92 p.) 1990 Sassicaia (PN 91 p.) 1990 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva (PN 87 p.) 1990 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino (PN 87 p.) Tuscany 1990 Masseto 1990 Tignanello (PN 97 p.) (JL 97 p., PN 92 p.) The following year, 1991, was drenched by rains in both Piedmont and Tuscany. If you have any wines of this vintage, they should be drunk as soon as possible. Our favourite wines from the 1991: Piedmont 1991 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1991 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1991 Gaja Barbaresco (PN 93 p.) (PN 90 p.) (JL 86 p.) Tuscany 1991 Ornellaia 1991 Solaia 1991 Sassicaia (PN 88 p.) (PN 87 p.) (PN 86 p., JL 87 p.) Tuscany 1991 Masseto 1991 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino (PN 94 p.) (PN 89 p.) Other 1991 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella (PN 90 p.) 1992 was year of struggle. Cool weather and rains in the early summer fortunately turned into a dry summer. But storms and heavy rains in the late summer and at harvest time served to drench the crops. In Piedmont the late-ripening Nebbiolo suffered, and the Barolos and Barbarescos did not perform great. For the second time in his life, Angelo Gaja decided not to produce any wine for the year; the previous instance was in 1980. Tuscany fared somewhat better than Piedmont, thanks to the early and selective harvest. Montepulciano and Montalcino wines enjoyed the greatest success. Our favourite wines from the 1992: Piedmont 1992 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche (PN 92 p.) Tuscany 1992 Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 1992 Masseto 1992 Sassicaia (PN 89 p.) (PN 88 p.) (JL 88 p., PN 85 p.) Tuscany 1992 Avignonesi Occhio di Pernice 84 F I N E (PN 94 p.)

Due to its heavy rains, 1993 was the third unfortunate year in a row for Piedmont, whilst the vintage showed promise in Tuscany. A hot and dry summer kept the grapes very small, concentrated and thick-skinned. Two weeks prior to the harvest, however, the rains came, thus bringing down the crop quality. Our favourite wines from the 1993: Piedmont 1993 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1993 Gaja Barolo Conteisa Cerequio 1993 Gaja Darmagi (PN 89 p.) (JL 89 p.) (PN 89 p.) Tuscany 1993 Ferré Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino 1993 Sassicaia (PN 90 p.) (JL 90 p.) Other 1993 Masi Amarone Classico Vigneto Mazzano (JL 90 p.) 1994 put the legendary regions of Piedmont to the test once again. Spring frost, mid-summer hailstorms and heavy autumn rains crushed any hopes for a good crop year. Tuscany, on the other hand, was blessed with ideal weather for the entire growing season. A warm spring and a hot, dry sum- mer with just the right amount of rain ensured an excellent vintage for wines that are at their prime drinkability right now, but can still be cellared for a few more years with good results. Our favourite wines from the 1994: Piedmont 1994 Gaja Barolo Sperss 1994 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 1994 Gaja Barbaresco (PN 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) (JL 86 p.) Tuscany 1994 Masseto 1994 Castello di Ama Riserva Vigneto La Casuccia 1994 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 1994 Sassicaia 1994 Frescobaldi Mormoreto 1994 Solaia (PN 95 p.) (JL 93 p.) (JL 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) (EA 89 p.) (PN 87 p.) Tuscany 1994 Avignonesi Vin Santo (PN 98 p.) 1995 marked the beginning of a series of strong vintages. Indeed, 1995 itself was a year that saw tribulations transformed into triumphs. Spring started off nicely with warm weather only to turn rainy during the flowering period, which effectively stopped fertilisation at its halfway point. An extremely hot July made a dramatic transition into a chilly August. Excess moisture also led to the spread of mold-related diseases. This moisture, however, was duly evaporated by the Indian summer that followed, thus saving the vintage. In Piedmont August hailstorms destroyed as much as 70 per cent of vineyards in some areas. Tuscany was spared from the hail and the hot topic of discussion that autumn was the 45-day stretch without rain just before the harvest. Wines from this vintage are very long-lasting and still require further bottle maturation to reach their full potential. Nevertheless, the Chianti Classicos should be drunk right now, even though they could do with a bit more maturation. Our favourite wines from the 1995: Piedmont 1995 Corino Barolo Vigna Rocche 1995 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana 1995 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1990 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí San Lorenzo 1995 Gaja Darmagi (PN 96 p.) (PN 94 p.) (PN 93 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 87 p.) Tuscany 1995 Solaia (JL 94 p.) 1995 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino (EA 90 p.) 1995 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi & Mondavi Luce della Vite (PN 90 p.) 1995 Tignanello (JL 90 p.) 1995 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino (PN 89 p.) 1995 Frescobaldi Mormoreto (EA 88 p.) 1995 Sassicaia (JL 87 p.) 1996 was an excellent continuation of the preceding year. Temperatures exceeding 30 Celsius at the beginning of June accelerated and balanced the start of the flowering period. The summer growing season enjoyed ideal conditions, in which the grapes were allowed to ripen slowly and evenly. The autumn rains did not present any mould problems due to the cool temperatures. Nebbiolo grapes were thick-skinned, very concentrated and ripe. The 1996 Barolos and Barbarescos are abundantly fruity, supple and robust wines, whose quality is on a par with the 1990 vintage. In Tuscany Chianti and Montalcino enjoyed extraordinary success. Montepulciano did not do quite as well, but producers in Tuscany considered 1996 to be nearly every bit as good as it was in 1995. Starting with this vintage Angelo Gaja classified his legendary single-vineyard Barbarescos and Barolos as IGTs. Gaja said that the reason for doing this was his desire to differentiate his previous modern single-vintage wines from his family's pride, the traditional Barbaresco, whose importance he wanted to emphasise as his only DOCG wine. The venerable Chianti producer, Castello di Ama decided that from 1996 on it would focus on the production of Chianti Classico, placing less emphasis on its single-vineyard wines, the Bellavista and La Casuccia. 85 I T A L Y Fi n e Vi n ta g e

The wines are still maturing very nicely, even if the Chiantis should, in our opinion, be enjoyed soon due to their sheer deliciousness. Our favourite wines from the 1996: Piedmont 1996 Ceretto Bricco Rocche (JL 97 p.) 1996 Ceretto Barbaresco Bricco Asili (JL 95 p.) 1996 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne (PN 94 p.) 1996 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate (PN 94 p.) 1996 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia (PN 93 p.) 1996 Paolo Scavino Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata Riserva (PN 92 p.) 1996 Gaja Sperss (PN 87 p.) Tuscany 1996 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (JL 90 p.) 1996 Masseto (JL 90 p.) 1996 Marchesato degli Aleramici Brunello di Montalcino (PN 89 p.) 1996 Antinori Guado al Tasso (JL 88 p.) 1996 Sassicaia (JL 87 p.) 1996 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino (PN 87 p.) In 1997 the entire Italian wine industry was rejuvenated by one of the greatest vintages of all time. The only negative aspect of the year involved sub-zero night temperatures in April and May that damaged the unusually early buds and flowering. As a result, the crop yield was smaller than desired. Otherwise, the summer season was graced with sunny, warm weather. Temperatures climbed higher in August and September and the grapes ripened two weeks earlier than normal. This caught Piedmont by surprise, as the Nebbiolo ripened ahead of the Barbera, which was unprecedented. The small grapes were so well concentrated that there were only four other Italian vintages like the 1997 in the 20th century. Otherwise, the acidity of the grapes fell below normal levels due to their ripeness. In Tuscany the situation was the same as in Piedmont ­ there had not been a crop of such quality since 1947. The wines can still take years of cellaring and as long as decades for the Barolos and Barbarescos. Our favourite wines from the 1997: Piedmont 1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1997 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Prapo 1997 Azelia Barolo San Rocco 1997 Prunotto Barolo Bussia 1997 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1997 Prunotto Costamiole Barbera d'Alba 1997 Gaja Darmagi 1997 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1997 Roberto Voerzio Barbera d'Alba 1997 Seghesio Barolo La Villa 1997 Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Arbonia 1997 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 1997 Molino Barolo Conca (PN 97 p.) (JL 96 p.) (JL 95 p.) (JL 94 p.) (JL 93 p.) (JL 93 p.) (PN 92 p.) (JL 92 p.) (JL 92 p.) (JL 92 p.) (JL 91 p.) (JL 90 p.) (JL 90 p.) Tuscany 1997 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva La Casuccia (JL 95 p.) 1997 Castello dei Rampolla Vigna d'Alceo (JL 95 p.) 1997 Fontodi Case Via Syrah (JL 94 p.) 1997 Podere Il Bosco Syrah di Manzano (JL 93 p.) 1997 Frescobaldi Mormoreto (EA 92 p.) 1997 Pertimali Brunello di Montalcillo (JL 92 p.) 1997 Frescobaldi Lamaione (JL 91 p.) 1997 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino (JL 89 p., PN 93 p.) 1997 Tenuta Caprzo Brunello di Montalcno La Casa (JL 91 p.) 1997 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (JL 89 p., PN 93 p.) 1997 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino (JL 90 p.) 1997 Avignonesi Desiderio (JL 90 p.) 1997 Sassicaia (JL 90 p., PN 90 p.) 1997 Antinori Guado al Tasso (EA 90 p., JL 89 p.) Tuscany 1997 Masseto 1997 Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 1997 Solaia 1997 La Massa Giorgio Primo Chianti Classico (JL 98 p., PN 94 p.) (JL 98 p.) (JL 98 p., PN 96 p.) (JL 97 p.) Other 1997 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 1997 Granato (PN 94 p.) (JL 92 p.) 1998 was overshadowed by the greatness that was 1997. A cold and rainy spring delayed flowering by as much as two weeks. Then a hot and dry summer nearly parched vineyards, which did not get any rain until the harvest. This vintage that favours French varieties has high sugar content and lower than normal acidity. In Piedmont the Barolos and Barbarescos managed some degree of success, whilst in Tuscany Montalcino and Bolgheri fared the best. Our favourite wines from the 1998: Piedmont 1998 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 1998 Quarum Barbera d'Asti 1998 Braida Ai Suma Barbera d'Asti 1998 Gaja Sperss 1998 Vietti Barbera d'Alba La Crena 86 F I N E Piedmont (JL 96 p.) (JL 95 p.) (JL 94 p.) (JL 93 p.) (JL 92 p.) 1998 Pio Cesare Barolo 1998 Braida Bricco dell'Uccelone Barbera d'Asti 1998 Ceretto Barolo Brunate 1998 Gaja Sorí Tildin (EA 91 p.) (JL 90 p.) (EA 90 p.) (PN 87 p.)

Our favourite wines from the 1998: Tuscany 1998 Capannelle & Avignonesi 50&50 1998 Le Macchiole Paleo 1998 Masseto 1998 Capannelle Solare 1998 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (JL 95 p.) (JL 94 p.) (PN 94 p., JL 93 p.) (JL 93 p.) (JL 92 p., PN 93 p.) Tuscany 1998 Sassicaia 1998 Fontalloro 1998 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 1998 Tignanello (JL 92 p.) (JL 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) (JL 88 p.) 1999 carried on the winning streak of outstanding vintages in Piedmont, Barolo and Barbaresco. This vintage was in all respects excellent, even though heavy precipitation in August did cause some mold problems on vineyards. Although the 1999s almost attained the same level as the 1995s, they did not match the excellence of 1996 and 1997. In Tuscany 1999 was an unusually hot year, even if the weather conditions were varied. Because autumn rains did not arrive until after the harvest, a large percentage of Sangiovese grapes could be saved. In Tuscany this vintage produced mature and abundantly fruity wines. Many Chianti producers felt that 1999 was a better year than even 1997. The 1999s also offer the buyer a better price-quality ratio compared to the high-priced 1997s. Our favourite wines from the 1999: Piedmont 1999 Conterno Giacomo Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1999 Gaja Costa Russi 1999 Gaja Darmagi 1999 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 1999 Gaja Barbaresco (PN 94 p.) (JL 94 p.) (JL 94 p.) (EA 95 p., PN 93 p.) (PN 87 p.) 1999 Castello di Fonterutoli Brancaia 1999 Isole e Olena Syrah 1999 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 1999 Castello di Brolio Casalferro 1999 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Tignanello 1999 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino (JL 92 p.) (JL 92 p.) (JL 91 p.) (JL 90 p.) (JL 90 p.) (JL 89 p.) (PN 88 p., JL 87 p.) (EA 88 p.) Tuscany 1999 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 Tua Rita Redigaffi 1999 Frescobaldi Mormoreto 1999 Isole e Olena Cepparello (PN 95 p.) (PN 95 p.) (EA 94 p.) 93 (JL 9 p.) Other 1999 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella 1999 Granato (PN 93 p., JL 94 p.) (JL 90 p.) The emperor's new clothes ny's Maremma. In Italy the field has been joined by a large number of new small-scale producers, which have the capital to realise ambitious aims, with the assistance of top consultants. The first vintage of the new millennium turned out to be a rather good one. Both in Piedmont and Tuscany, 2000 was a crop year of extreme proportions. The weather was very unpredictable, demanding a great deal of work on the plantations. The warm spring resulted in early flowering, which was followed by a fine, balmy period that boded well for a large crop. But July brought with it chilly, rainy weather. A hot and dry August neatly remedied the situation and record temperatures were posted in Piedmont. At the end of August vineyards were barraged with hailstorms. The 2000 wines are softer than the 1996s and resemble the more mature vintages of 1997 and 1999. In Tuscany this vintage was a good one throughout the region. The new millennium inspired the pioneers of Italy's wine revolution to set their sights on new regions. It was interesting to see how Antinori invested so heavily in Puglia, and Gaja in Tusca- Our favourite wines from the 2000: Piedmont 2000 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo 2000 Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra 2000 Gaja Barbaresco Sorí Tildin 2000 Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2000 Gaja Sorí San Lorenzo 2000 Barbaresco Ceretto Bricco Asili Faset (PN 95 p.) (PN 94 p.) (PN 92 p.) (EA 91 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 89 p.) Tuscany 2000 Antinori Guado al Tasso 2000 Argiano Suolo 2000 Sassicaia 2000 Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2000 Masseto 2000 Solaia 2000 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino (PN 93 p.) (PN 91 p.) (PN 91 p.) (JL 90 p.) (JL 90 p.) (PN 90 p.) (PN 88 p.) I T A L Y 87 Fi n e Vi n ta g e

In 2001 growers' fears concerning an early spring were realised. The new buds that were exposed to April's sub-zero temperatures suffered severe damage, which was apparent in the small crop size. The very hot and dry summer weather drove vineyards nearly to their breaking point, until, just in the nick of time, early September rains rescued the parched crops from dy- ing of thirst. The result was a very ripe and heavily fruity vintage, which is dominated by a high essence concentration, rich colour and firm tannins. All in all, Piedmont and Tuscany both produced an excellent long-lasting vintage. These wines can be matured for decades. Our favourite wines from the 2001: Piedmont 2001 Marchese Di Barolo Barolo Cannubi 2001 Pio Cesare Barolo (PN 90 p.) (JL 90 p.) Tuscany 2001 Frescobaldi Mormoreto 2001 La Massa Giorgio Primo Chianti Classico 2001 Tua Rita Redigaffi 2001 Sassicaia (EA 92 p.) (PN 92 p.) (PN 91 p.) (JL 91 p., PN 87 p.) Tuscany 2001 Masseto (JL 96 p.) 2001 Ornellaia (JL 94 p.) 2001 Castello di Rampolla Vigna d'Alceo (PN 94 p.) 2001 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva (JL 93 p.) 2001 Bibi Graetz Testamatta (JL 92 p.) Other 2001 Corte Sant'Alda Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (JL 93 p.) 2001 Granato (JL 88 p.) 2002 turned out to be the most trying crop year since 1992. Spring came late and May saw record rainfall; it was a cold and wet start. In Tuscany a hot June did not help very much, as the average temperatures from July to October remained below the normal mean and rains were heavier than usual. The crops were even harvested in the rain. For instance Antinori did not produce any Tignanello this year, instead all Tignanello grapes were used in Villa Antinori. In Piedmont the entire growing season was chilly, damp and plagued by hail. Piedmont's late-blooming Nebbiolo grapes, however, were saved by an indian summer, and the Barolos and Barbarescos ultimately did relatively well. Wines from this vintage should be drunk while young. Our favourite wines from the 2002: Tuscany 2002 Sassicaia 2002 Masseto 2002 Ornellaia (JL 94 p.) (JL 89 p.) (JL 88 p.) Tuscany 2002 Villa Antinori Rosso 2002 Ca'Marcanda Promis 2002 Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia (JL 89 p.) (JL 88 p.) (JL 87 p.) 2003 was extraordinarily hot and dry, as it was throughout Europe. In Piedmont a difficult four-month stretch of hot weather ended in the cooler temperatures of September. This was the only thing that ensured the vividness in aromas and sugar-acid balance of the grapes. Consequently, this vintage was saved by the skin of its teeth, ending up in some cases even slightly superior to the 1997 or 2000. In Tuscany the spring saw normal temperatures and rainfall. Freezing temperatures at the beginning of April did some damage, reducing the crop yield. This was followed by a long, hot summer, indeed the hottest in 150 years. The heat and absence of any moisture threatened to shrivel the vines, until the September rains saved the crop. These severe weather conditions made this crop yield one of the smallest ever. The ample fruitiness and robust, mature tannins of these wines give them the potential for maturation. In any case, with acid concentrations lower than normal suggesting not as long life span for these wines as, for example, the 1999 and 1997. Our favourite wines from the 2003: Tuscany 2003 Castello dei Rampolla Vigna d'Alceo 2003 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco (JL 93 p.) (JL 91 p.) Tuscany 2003 Castello dei Rampolla Chianti Classico 2003 Masseto (JL 90 p.) (JL 88 p.) 88 F I N E

2004 was the exact opposite of 2003: a long cold winter and wet spring pushed back the flowering period. An unusual long and warm summer and autumn as well as a surprisingly warm October with cold nights gave the grapes a stunning concentration, nuance and aroma. The end result was a bevy of exceptionally elegant wines, which looked forward to a long life, but could also be enjoyed young. Our favourite wines from the 2004: Tuscany 2004 Granato 2004 Masseto (JL 90 p.) (JL 89 p.) 2005 was a very difficult year for producers. A dry and chilly summer turned into a rainy August. Piedmont was battered by hailstorms and a disease affecting the hybrid variety Baco 22, which dries out and eventually kills the vine. Tuscany was also hit by chilly, rainy weather and the challenges these pose for vineyards. It can be said that 2005 was entirely a winemaker's year, even if it was somewhat desperate. As this compendium shows, Italian winemaking has undergone significant changes over the past 45 years. With the advent of new production methods, varieties, regions and countless new producers it can be expected that the Italian wine industry will change considerably more in the next ten years than it has in the last twenty. The next hot topic of discussion is the longawaited rise of Southern Italy, whilst Friuli and Alto-Adige as well as Lombardy have already proven their high quality. At the same time, the 'classic' regions are at their peak and continuing development. For example, Barolos and Chiantis have undergone a massive change in taste and texture compared to older vintages. How these modern wines will mature in the bottle and what they will offer in ten years remains to be seen. At least one thing is certain ­ based on the current trends things most certainly are not heading in the wrong direction.

Argentina is a fascinating country, so European in one way, yet so fundamentally different considering its vast diverse landscape, bright sky, clear air, and never-ending rows of vines against the dramatic backdrop of the Andes. The exuberant people display their European heritage yet maintain a distinctly South American flair. They are friendly, passionate and relaxed yet they are fiercely proud. discerning of wine lovers, and even less often is it the subject of an article in this very magazine, which tends to focus on FINE wines rather than on wines that are decent and offer value for money. So the question remains, can Argentina produce a fine wine? Indeed it has the potential to do so. Let us not forget that Argentina achieved its current Larsson Fine Argentine? Text: Andre a s L a rs s on Ph oto: Pe kka Nuikki The Argentines love their wine. They imbibe far less than they used to, but even the relatively "moderate" amounts they take in today still qualify them as big consumers. And that is not their only big appetite. The average Argentine eats approximately 70 kg of meat per person per year! Argentina truly is the El Dorado of quality beef­the steaks are not just big, they are enormous, and that is a very fine reason to drink wine! I've just come back to what seems a rather cold, grey and dull Scandinavia after the bright and sunny days I spent in Buenos Aires and Mendoza, where I attended the Masters of Food & Wine Festival. This was a festive gathering featuring great wine, intriguing tastings, extravagant lunches, and splendid dinners prepared and presented by leading chefs and sommeliers from around the globe. I brought back many wonderful taste memories, dominated I admit by the aforementioned great steaks that any carnivore would recognise as truly Grand Cru. Meat and tango aside, what about the wines? It is well-known that Argentine wines have enjoyed great success in most markets in recent years. This success is primarily due to the country's commercial-yet-well-made wines, mostly Malbec or Bordeaux blends with ripe fruit and good structure offering good value for money. Even so, the category rarely attracts the interest quality of wines only very recently, and the domestic industry is still learning and developing. Consider California. These days, few still question California's potential to produce fine wine. What was going on in California a few decades ago is happening in Argentina today. Certainly, Argentina has enough sun, and now it is developing vineyards in southern Patagonia as well as higher up on the slopes of the Andes. As a matter of fact, the highest planting in the world can be found in Salta, at an elevation of more than 3 000 metres! I believe that the wines merely need enough time to develop in the cellar. When they are young they can be very rich and rather tannic with pronounced alcohol. They can be everything but fine and elegant. However, having had the pleasure of imbibing some mature examples ­such as Nicolas Catena Zapata 1999, a marvellous wine with an amazingly complex structure, dark fruit, classy tannins, and an extremely long finish, Felipe Rutini Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, which exhibited some smoky notes, cedar wood, tobacco, and cassis and had a very smooth structure with well integrated tannins, and Trapiche Millennium 1995, from a rare 6 litre bottling which was redolent of walnuts, cassis and spices with great richness and well-integrated tannins­I have come to realise that these wines develop a very Bordeaux-like structure and complexity. Now, I am not saying that a wine must be Bordeaux to be good, but I do like it when the developed nose displays leather, cigar box and spicy notes, the palate softens, and the 90 F I N E

tannins take on a more velvety structure. Not only does this provide another dimension of richness and maturity, but the wine is highly drinkable (especially, dare I say again, with big steaks!). I will leave you with some potential "fine" Malbecs and Malbec blends which I tasted and would like to put in the cellar for a few years: Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira 2002 And then, of course, there is the Malbec. This very interesting grape, which has become Argentina's iconic varietal deserves special recognition. It can really stand out on its own, even though personally I feel it always gains from being blended, as do all "Bordelaise" varieties. Dark purple in colour, the nose is suggestive and shows some complexity, dark plums, sous-bois, cassis and wild raspberries. The palate is refined, showing some development, good structure, quiet silkiness with velvety tannins, nice sweetness of the fruit and a refined spiciness. It is very long, complex and balanced, and very drinkable as well. As elegant as an Argentine woman. Tapiz Reserva Seleccion de Barrica 2004 Very deep purple and almost opaque, the nose of this wine exhibits dark So the question remains, can Argentina produce a fine wine? Indeed, it has the potential to do so. fruits, plums, tobacco and roasted coffee beans. The palate is young and firm with good structure and balanced tannins. It has elegance and spice with roasted coffee and dark fruit. The finish is long and elegant, the balance good, and again there is a good notion of Bordeaux elegance. I would like to try this again in a few years. It has very good potential, already being balanced and full but not heavy with good freshness. Bressia Conjuro 2004 Again, young and dense purple, the nose is quite generous, quite Bordeauxlike, with cigar-box, leather and cassis aromas. The palate is well-concentrated with spicy oak, dark cherry, cassis and well-built tannins. It is young yet rounded, offering balanced freshness and a pleasant aftertaste with good fruit and spicy notes. C'est Bordelaise, c'est bon! Trapiche Malbec Viña Victorio Coletto 2004 Young, dense and purple with high viscosity. The nose is very ripe with dark cherry, chocolate and plum. It is very generous. The palate is immensely full and quite extracted, but it is not pleasant at present. It should definitely be given some time, and it is likely to develop well. It has good freshness, a lot of dark fruit, and clear length. Give it time! Viña Alicia Brote Negro 2005 Young with dark purple colour, the nose is still a little closed but it has good depth, plenty of berry, hints of leather and tobacco, and a certain complexity as well. The palate is very full and firm with more structure, very refined tannins, violet notes and dark berries. It is nicely backed up by good freshness and is well-built and very dense without being heavy. It has silky tannins and good spiciness on the long aftertaste. I liked this one very much. Highly structured and impeccably balanced. 91 L a r s s o n Fi n e L a r s s o n

Photos: Pekka Nuikki Text: Juha Lihtonen Far away from the biggest cities in the United States is the small idyllic town of Yountville in California's Napa Valley. The biggest tourist attraction in the town of fewer than 3,000 people is an old laundry. It is so popular that visitors can expect a few months' wait to get in. The French Laundry, however, does not offer laundry services but something very different ­ the world's best food. The restaurant has been voted the best in the world twice. It is no wonder then that we and thousands of others like us are willing to travel there, even from the other side of the world. But it is true, you really must reserve your table at least two months in advance. Fi n e R e s ta u r a n t

The mayor's restaurant After a fifteen-hour flight and the hour-and-a-half car ride from San Francisco Airport, we arrive at the barren Yountville main street where the two-story stone home of The French Laundry is located. The building blends inconspicuously into the street scene. In the inner court, we are greeted by the engagingly cheerful Kristine Keefer. She introduces herself as the head of PR! We do not recall ever visiting a place that had its own head of public relations. Kristine leads us directly through a small idyllic garden into a kitchen where people busily and without much expression are preparing for the night. The kitchen's sous chef, Devin Knell, opens dozens of Sevruga caviar cans while keeping an eye on his team's activities. The work of the kitchen team of twenty is highly organized with no unnecessary talk. On the wall of the kitchen is a large plasma TV streaming video from the restaurant kitchen. -The video is transmitted in real time from Thomas Keller's New York restaurant Per Se. In this way, kitchen staff is able to communicate new food production innovations more efficiently and quickly apply new techniques on their side of the country, Keefer says, adding that Thomas Keller is very dynamic in leading all of his restaurants and bakeries. Even though Keller's business ventures have expanded to eight locations, The French Laundry occupies its own special place in Thomas Keller's heart. The French Laundry is where Keller's success story began in 1992, when he arrived in Yountville on the initiative of a friend to inspect the place. He fell in love with the restaurant as soon as he set foot inside the rose-flanked garden. Keller, who had worked in numerous three-star Michelin restaurants in France, gave his heart to the French countryside kitchen. He had the feeling that he finally had found the place where he could fulfil his dream of offering modern American food from a classic French kitchen. Keller fell in love not only with the facilities, but with the unique atmosphere and history of the place. 94 F I N E The history of The French Laundry is an interesting one, extending all the way back to the end of the 1880s, when a saloon stood on the spot. When the Yountville town council banned alcohol from being served within a two-mile radius of the town, the saloon became a brothel. By the end of the 1920s, however, a French steam laundry had moved onto the site, and it operated there for a long time. In 1974, Yountville mayor Don Schmitt and his wife bought the building and renovated it as a restaurant. They decided to honour the history of the place by keeping the old name. For the Schmitts, the restaurant was like a home where they could invite customers to enjoy their hospitality. They offered only one four-course menu, which they changed daily. Since Keller bought the place in 1994, he has perpetuated the values of the Schmitts by continuing to honour the long-time name of the place.

Way to the stars Thomas Keller, 52, is a Californian who has had a long career and been awarded many notable prizes, each more prestigious than the last. Among the most recent is the award for best chef in the United States. He has been greatly recognised for his talent in his home country and abroad. He is the only American chef to own more than one three-star Michelin restaurant. The French Laundry and New York-based Per Se both are three-star. The French Laundry, moreover, is the only three-star restaurant in California and since 2002 has been named among the top five restaurants in the world. Keller bases his cuisine on American tastes, both modern and traditional, combining them uniquely with classic French cuisine. His goal is to stir strong feelings in customers through the ingenious mixing of taste sensations with stories about the origins of his dishes and their ingredients. Instead of gimmicks, he strives for simplicity, which is most difficult to achieve, he says. Firstrate ingredients are the foundation for everything he creates. The other critical factor is a knowledgeable staff tasked with transforming the ingredients into taste sensations which inspire emotion. One of Keller's trusted employees is The French Laundry's kitchen leader, 31-year-old chef de cuisine Corey Lee. Korean-born Lee earned his stripes in London and Paris in multistar restaurants. In the United States, he has been named a rising star among chefs. He started working at The French Laundry in 2001, went to New York to open Keller's new Per Se restaurant, and was there until Keller asked him to return to The French Laundry to assume responsibility for the kitchen. -I enjoy working here. California is a real mecca for food lovers. We have excellent ingredients available here from the entire spectrum ­ from vegetables and fruits to meats and fish and seafood. Best of all, it's all fresh, says Lee. Boldly combining the ingredients from nearby areas with modern production techniques and creative American thinking in a traditional French countryside kitchen, Lee says he is able to create the taste sensations The French Laundry offers. Lee cannot emphasise enough the importance of origin in the ingredients he uses, saying: -In Yountville alone there are two farms from which we acquire many ingredients. We get our delicious butter from the smallest dairy in the United States in Vermont, where seven cows produce the milk for the butter. Vegetables, spice flowers and fruit, including white strawberries, we pick up across the road, from the Jacobsen garden. Yoghurts and cheeses we get from the Andante Dairy, where Soyoung Scanlan exclusively develops whatever dairy products we ask for. On top of that, we cultivate two acres of farm land that we own. -We plan our dishes according to which ingredients are most usable. The ingredients determine what we produce. This is why we create new menus daily. We are innovative, of course, but for us innovation always refers back to the past. By this I mean that to innovate is not to make something completely new, but to be original and excited about what we were able to create earlier. In practice, it involves maintaining the nine-course menu concept and developing our dishes. We are always thinking of how we can create more flavourful sensations from first-rate ingredients. By way of illustration, Lee mentions his imitation of the nutty Iberico ham. He achieves it using local ingredients. Air dried Japanese beef is aromatised with low-tannin acorns from Valley Oaks oak trees. Grinding and soaking the acorns in milk with fat and serving the resulting mixture as a jelly accompaniment to the air-dried ham creates a taste sensation inspired by the authentic Iberico. The French Laundry also offers a fascinating ninecourse vegetarian menu. "It is homage to the wonderful vegetables from which we can produce delicious dishes. The menu is by no means made for just for vegetarians but it is offered specifically as a comparable alternative menu to the proteindriven menu," Lee emphasizes. Corey Lee says The French Laundry's success is based on three key factors: commitment to the product, experienced staff, and a clear vision for the place. At the same time, he cites the strong bond between the dining and kitchen staff and the holistic approach to creating a restaurant sensation. Referring to the philosophy of The French Laundry, he says it is a matter of providing not only an excellent meal and wines but a journey which transports the customer to taste memories or to pleasures never before experienced at all. 95 I T A L I A Fi n e R e s ta u r a n t

The French Laundry Lunch 14.3.2008 / Prix fixe US$ 240 Our lunchtime taste journey of nine course menu at The French Laundry lasted a whopping 4.5 hours. It is worth noting that not once did we notice the passage of time, the journey was so enjoyable. The dishes were beautifully presented, visually minimalist, with very refined flavours. The menu's biggest surprises were the appetizers, the most delicious being the beetroot pyre with its velvety structure and sour cream and nuts, the cold cauliflower pannacotta with its deeply subtle yet intense aftertaste, and ­ the most magnificent taste sensation on the menu ­ the egg flan made into bouillon spiced with truffle and served in an eggshell. Its silky texture and incredibly intense chocolaty taste were absolutely disarming. Of the warm foods, the slow-braised rabbit with truffle dressing transported our taste buds. The roasted lamb fillet, though flavourful and tender, was unsurprising. The local Tomme cheese was tasty, though the sides served with it stole some of the limelight. The sensations on the latter part of the menu included a salt tray brought to the table with four different salts on offer ­ a Japanese salt, a Hawaiian red and black salt, Camargue's sea salt and Montana salt from the Jurassic period 40 million years ago. The desserts provided a fine ending to the long menu: to begin with, a quite fresh buttermilk sherbet, followed by an intensely sweet chocolate praline dessert, and lastly a refreshingly light bavarois produced from Granny Smith apples. All the wines were exceptionally wellchosen even though none was particularly memorable. The most interesting wines were the ones created jointly by Thomas Keller and Paul Roberts. These were the Modicum Cabernet Sauvignon wines, the first two vintages of which ­ 2001 and 2002 ­ were offered for tasting together with the lamb. The wines were very good and concentrated but were still too young to stir any great emotion. Even though the wines by themselves were not spectacular they performed as fine complements to the food. All of the wines were especially well chosen to complement the dishes served, making the entire experience absolutely positive. The wines were excluded from the menu price. A journey to pleasure Unlike many other three-star restaurants, The French Laundry offers its guests a very cosy atmosphere. The cosiness of the place and the informal service create the perfect setting for a gastronomic adventure without unnecessary tensions. The informality makes it easy for diners to let their emotions rise uninhibited. Their emotions are stirred not only by the tastes but also by the stories the sensitive dining staff relate about the origins of ingredients when they introduce the dishes. The wine list is extremely comprehensive and is priced in keeping with a restaurant of this category. When selecting a wine, it is more interesting to stay with the offerings from the region's small producers and notice how well they complement the food offerings. The wine knowledge of The French Laundry's dining staff is superior thanks to a systematic training program conceived by Paul Roberts MS, one of the world's 120 Master Sommeliers, who is responsible for the beverage offerings at all of Keller's restaurants. -People come here after a long journey from places all over the world. We need to make sure that customers feel that we respect the time they give us. This can happen only if we can ensure a first-rate meal experience by providing outstanding service and unique products, Roberts says. Given the visit and lunch experience we enjoyed, we can confirm that Paul Roberts is a man of his word. Our experience at The French Laundry was positive in every respect ­ the food in itself was delicious and beautifully presented. With the help of the sommelier, we were able to select and enjoy fine wines which complemented our dishes perfectly. What then makes The French Laundry one of the best restaurants in the world? It is hard to say what raises the place above other top restaurants apart from the feeling which the staff inspires in the customer. Once the physical framework is in place and everything has been finetuned, the emotional aspects become central. This is where Keller and his team have succeeded at The French Laundry. Customers, subcontractors and staff cannot help but be impressed by the care The French Laundry gives not only to detail and execution, whatever the activity, but also to the effort it takes to continually cultivate its approach. Sadly, these things are rare in the modern world. Luckily, there are a few places left where they can be experienced with all of the senses. The French Laundry is definitely one of them. After travelling thousands of kilometres to one of the best restaurants in the world, many are surprised to discover that they have not reached their destination when they step into The French Laundry. On the contrary, it is at that point that the journey truly begins ­ the journey to pleasure. 96 F I N E

Th e Fr e n c h L a u n d r y 's v e g e t a b l e g a r d e n Wines Vilmart Champagne Brut 1999 Lazy Creek Anderson Valley Riesling 2004 D'Oliveira Reserva Terrantez 1977 Palmina Arneis 2006 Tablas Creek Vineyards, Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc Martinelli Three Sisters Chardonnay 2004 Modicum 2001 Modicum 2002 Calera Vognier 2006 Aida Late Harvest Zinfandel (JL 92p. PN 94p.) (JL 85p. PN 88p.) (JL 88p. PN 90p.) (JL 87p. PN 83p.) (JL 85p. PN 88p.) (JL 86p. PN 99p.) (JL 89p. PN 91p.) (JL 88p. PN 87p.) (JL 86p. PN 84p.) (JL 86p. PN 89p.) Contact information: The French Laundry 6640 Washington Street Yountville CA 94599 Tel: +707 944 2380 www.frenchlaundry.com

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text: Es si Avel l an M W photos: Pek k a Nuik k i rand Siècle is an enigmatic champagne. Laurent-Perrier's prestige wine, created by Bernard de Nonancourt, is cloaked in mystery. The origin of the grapes, the blending of the different varieties, and the age and production volumes of the wines are closely-guarded business secrets. What secrets does the prestige champagne Grand Siècle, hide? Is the wine whose name honours the great epoch LaurentPerrier's best weapon in the face of increasing competition? 100 F I N E

C H A M P A G N E 101 Fi n e C h a m p a g n e

t seems that the microclimate in Champagne is bad for men, since many houses have had strong champagne widows, whose husbands have died untimely deaths. One of these houses, whose history perhaps embodies that trend more than any of the others, is Laurent-Perrier. The history of the house has been written by Mathilde Emilie Laurent-Perrier as well as Marie-Louise de Nonancourt. Now two sisters from the owner's family, Alexandra and Stéphanie de Nonancourt, sit in the management group. It is no coincidence that Bernard de Nonancourt has chosen to produce champagnes with feminine elegance. I set off from the champagne capital, Reims, towards a little village called Tours-sur-Marne. The cellars of Laurent-Perrier have been located here, at the crossing of the three main winery areas of Champagne, since its foundation in 1812. It is almost as if the village equals Laurent-Perrier, so easily is the impressive main building of the house found. Before I turn in to the yard, I notice a huge pile of soil next to the house. I wonder what they are going to build here. I -Believe it or not, all eight million bottles of our yearly sales are sent off to the world from this dock. Our facilities have become hopelessly confined, and that is why we have a big investment project under way, to be finished during the coming year. We go and see what the huge pile of soil is hiding behind it. Impressively large production facilities that are built mainly underground are under construction. Soon Laurent-Perrier will be able to say goodbye to the confined work premises. The massive investment projects alone reveal the huge success of Laurent-Perrier's recent history. We start by seeing the production facilities. We walk through the inner court towards a small loading dock. The small, one-truck dock looks like a relic, but our host assures us: Widow and war widow The history of the estate dates back to year 1812, when the son of a cooper, Alphonse Laurent, began production in Tours-sur-Marne. His son, Eugene, and above all his wife, Mathilde Emilie Perrier, brought the house to fame. Eugene faced an early grave, being crushed to death in the champagne cellars, leaving his 29-year-old wife to manage the champagne house alone. The young woman did not lack ambition and enterprise. The widow of Laurent-Perrier changed the name of the house to Veuve Laurent-Perrier, under which name it was known till 1964. Mathilde Emilie Laurent-Perrier managed the house successfully for 38 years. After she died childless in 1925, the 102 F I N E

house declined for the next 14 years, hitting rock bottom in the bankruptcy of 1938. At about the same time, a champagne family heir, Marie-Louise de Nonancourt, was experiencing difficulty finding her own place in their family business. War widow Marie-Louise was raising her four children alone, but could not resist seizing her advisor's recommendation to buy Veuve Laurent-Perrier. This decision saved Laurent-Perrier, and the company has been owned by the same family ever since. Marie-Louise de Nonancourt meant to buy the champagne house to be left for her oldest son. The Second World War, however, fouled up the plans. Both elder sons were active in the resistance movement. Maurice died in a concentration camp, but Bernard de Nonancourt survived the hardships. He had a high position in the resistance movement, and was, among other things, the first officer to go to Hitler's Eagle's Nest to evaluate its huge collection of valuable wines. Great director Bernard de Nonancourt's merits in the Champagne Laurent-Perrier history are beyond comparison. -80-year-old de Nonancourt is still in the business. He has been a great director, who knows everyone and everything from top to bottom. After he returned from the war, he started in the cellars and vineyards of the Lanson champagne house, and in 1949 he was appointed as the chairman of the board of Laurent-Perrier. At that time the yearly sales were 80 000 bottles, and today they have reached 8 million bottles! Bernard de Nonancourt has raised Laurent-Perrier to its place as one of the most respected champagne houses. Formerly ranked at 98th place, it is now ranked among the five biggest champagne sellers. Bernard de Nonancourt also chose the Chardonnay-oriented, fruity and light style for the house instead of the once-predominant Pinot Noir. The creation of the luxury cuvée, Grand Siècle, has been one of de Nonancourt's most significant and far-reaching accomplishments as well. Great century The era of Sun King Louis XIV is known as Grand Siècle­the Great Century. Bernard de Nonancourt was inspired by this era of wealth in France. At its launch in 1960, Grand Siècle was bottled in wide-bottomed, narrownecked bottles, mimicking the era. With their luxury mix, Laurent-Perrier was one of the initiators of the category, preceded only by Moët & Chandon, Roederer and Taittinger. 103 C H A M P A G N E Fi n e C h a m p a g n e

L a u r e n t - P e r r i e r G r a n d S i è c l e 104 F I N E

De Nonancourt and Laurent-Perrier are together advocates of blending. Grand Siècle was the first non-vintage luxury champagne. De Nonancourt wished to demonstrate the art of wine blending in Champagne. He wanted to make it easy for the consumers to enjoy champagne. An ordinary wine drinker does not have to know the vintage differences of Champagne. What is more, Grand Siècle is matured in cellars for so long that it is ready to be enjoyed at the moment of its launching. Grand Siècle is usually a blend of three vintages. Due to the variable weather conditions in the Champagne area, differences, even with successive vintages, are great. Different vintages in the blend complement each other and create a harmonic result. Thus, the champagne is always a firstclass, guaranteed choice for even the most demanding of tastes. Yet Grand Siècle has also suffered from its blended nature. There is some magic in the vintage marking, because only vintage champagnes seem to find their place on the list of the most respected champagnes. Laurent-Perrier has been reluctant to mark the vintages included in the blend on the label. In this respect, the product is working against itself. Since the information of origin is not marked, it is impossible to follow its development and respect its aging. Exceptions make the rule A few times, Grand Siècle made exceptions to its wine blending policy which confused the consumer. During a few great years, originally targeting markets which idealize vintage champagne, a vintage Grand Siècle was produced ­ Grand Siècle Exceptionellement Millésimé. The production has now been given up, however, and according to the export manager, Guillaume Deglise, no new vintage champagnes are being produced. Deglise adds: -Grand Siècle is a blend of almost equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the best vintage years, but the exact blending ratio varies yearly. The wine is 105 C H A M P A G N E Fi n e C h a m p a g n e

Super luxury So that an exception can make the rule, there is an even more expensive, rarer and more luxurious product in the Laurent-Perrier product assortment the luxury rosé wine, Cuvée Alexandra Rosé. The first vintage of this wine, 1982, was launched for daughter Alexandra's wedding in 1987. Fortunately, a few bottles still remain for the rest of the world as well. Cuvée Alexandra Rosé is vintage champagne that is made only in the best years. Guillaume Deglise says: -All grapes come from Grand Cru vineyards. Eighty per cent of the mix is Pinot Noir and the rest is Chardonnay. Cuvée Alexandra Rosé is a rare rosé champagne because a method called saignée is used in its making. This delicate method means that the grapes are left to be extracted with their skins until the desired colour has been achieved. Deglise reminds us: -Making rosés by this method is highly demanding. I think our former cellar manager even slept next to the tank so as not to miss the moment when the colour and the aroma of the wine were at their best! Cuvée Alexandra Rosé is stored for a long time, over ten years, and it is deliciously ready to drink right after its launching, but it will certainly continue to develop exquisitely after that. In the midst of unprecedented sales and massive investment projects, the nearly 200-year-old house of Laurent-Perrier is thriving. Bernard de Nonancourt has done a fantastic life's work in order to give the treasure of the family to the next generation, to his daughters Alexandra and Stéphanie. The bubbling success story continues in the hands of women again. At the same tame, champagne is changing from a festive drink to a gastronomic top-quality wine. The interest in the origin and manufacturing details of wines is greater than ever. Since knowledge increases enjoyment, it would be a pleasure if the vintages used were finally marked onto the back labels of Grand Siècle. made exclusively from the grapes of Grand Cru villages, and we use mainly grapes from Ambonnay, Verzenay, Mailly, Avize, Cramantin, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The house style Laurent-Perrier owns about 150 hectares, that is about 10 per cent, of the vineyards that produce the grapes needed for the company. The small landholding in vineyards is one of the few weaknesses of the house. Guillaume Deglise reminds us: -We have over a thousand grape suppliers, some of whom have been our subcontractors for three generations. We reward our long-term suppliers with a premium. The price increase of the Champagne grapes in recent years has been enormous. Chardonnay from Grand Cru villages is the most expensive grape, selling for over six euros per kilo. Laurent-Perrier's wines are characterised by the great proportion of Chardonnay, and the pricing pressures are increasing. Another characteristic of the champagnes of the house is the pure and fruity aroma, which is achieved by minimising contact with oxygen in all phases of production. Guillaume Deglise adds: -We gave up using oak barrels in 1964, and we use them only for the production of the red wines needed in rosé champagnes. The maturing time of Grand Siècle is long­seven years minimum. Flacon bottles are uniquely shaped and do not fit into the gyropalette that is used for mechanical sediment removal. Therefore, traditional handwork must be used to handle the bottles. Guillaume Deglise explains: -We have two persons in the cellar for this work only. They turn 40,000 bottles every day, and the whole process for each bottle takes three weeks. We are a little bit worried as to whether we can find skilled replacements for them after they retire. This is not one of the favourite jobs of young people today! The deficit that is created in the bottles when the bottles are recorked is filled in with the same wine and 10 to 11 grams of sugar. After this, the bottles will rest three more months in the cellars before they travel out to the world. 106 F I N E

CHRISTIE'S - HOSPICE DE BEAUNE AUCTION 16TH NOVEMBER 2008 Would you like to take part in the oldest, most famous charity wine auction in the world? If so, you can purchase a barrel of top Burgundy, red or white, at the Hospices de Beaune wine auction, which takes place on Sunday 16 November 2008. Your wine will be from the 2008 vintage, and we will help you to have it carefully tended and bottled, for delivery to the address of your choice. Your barrel will yield 24 dozen cases of 12 bottles, or 6 magnums, per case (or you can opt for larger formats, or halves). With family and friends, you can choose to have the labels personalised, with your name as the buyer. This wine could make a perfect accompaniment for future celebrations - an anniversary, child's wedding or 21st birthday, or as a company gift. You can choose between 42 wines, suited to all budgets, and some of the world's greatest wine names Meursault, Beaune, Corton, Mazis-Chambertin, Volnay, Pommard, Batard-Montrachet, and many more. In supporting the Hospices de Beaune - whose traditions date back to 1443 - you will join an inner circle of Burgundy wine connoisseurs and generous benefactors, and become owner of some of Burgundy's greatest wines. Just send me an email, so we can keep you informed of the quality of the 2008 vintage, and advise you, step by step, on how to take part in the sale. I look forward to hearing from you Anthony Hanson, Master of Wine beaune@christies.com INTERNATIONAL WINE SALES CALENDAR July ­ December 2008 July Mon 14 Fines Wine and Vintage Port London, South Kensington Nov Sat 1 Wed 5 Mon 10 Wed 13 Sun 16 Tues 18 Fri 21 Tues 25 Fine and Rare Wines Fine and Rare Wines Fine Wines and Vintage Port Fine and Rare Wines Hospices de Beaune Fine Wines Fine and Rare Wines Vins Fins et Spiritueux Los Angeles Amsterdam London, South Kensington London, King Street Beaune Geneva New York Paris Sept Mon 8 Sat 13 Mon 15 Fine Wines and Vintage Port Fine and Rare Wines Highlights from the Superlative Millennium Vintage. An Unprecedented Offering from a Private Collection. Part I Highlights from the Superlative Millennium Vintage. An Unprecedented Offering from a Private Collection. Part II London, South Kensington New York London, South Kensington Thurs 18 London, King Street Dec Mon 1 Thur 4 Thurs 4 Thurs 11 Fine Wines and Vintage Port Finest and Rarest Wines Fine and Rare Wines Finest and Rarest Wines London, South Kensington Amsterdam New York London, King Street Oct Thurs 16 Sat 25 Tues 28 Thurs 30 Fine and Rare Wines Fine and Rare Wines Vins Fins et Spiritueux Fine and Rare Wines London, King Street New York Paris Los Angeles Sale dates may be subject to change or cancellation Contact: Antonia Essex Tel: +44 (0) 20 7752 3101 Fax: +44 (0) 20 7752 3023 Email: aessex@christies.com Christie's nearest office Wen Li Yang Tel: +65 6235 3828 Email: wtang@christies.com

FINE Dining Text: Jerome Bouix La Part des Anges 17 rue Gubernatis Nice, France Lunch Mon-Sat Dinner Friday and Saturday tually been there! The wine list features most of the Australian top wines, and to my delight I also discovered a comprehensive selection of Penfolds Grange Hermitage wines. The Granges age superb and on several successive visits I got to taste the 1975 (97p.) and 1980 (94p.) vintages. Prices were reasonable for such rarities (around 400 euros a bottle). This was also the only place in Australia and New Zealand where I found the very uncommon New Zealand Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005, with its splendid intensity and elegance, and long aftertaste (97p.). With a blindfold on I would have guessed a Grand Cru Burgundy from a top producer! Orlando only gets in three bottles of this little masterpiece a year. The Wolf Blass Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 was also surprisingly agreeable (93p.). There were plenty of Italian wines too, though not quite the most exquisite. The locale is one of Adelaide's most upmarket neighbourhoods, and the restaurant is in a pleasant street full of trendy clothes shops and bars. restaurant type: brasserie / TRENDY / fine dining s c o r e s (1­5. 6 = outstanding.) Food Wine list Service Surroundings 5 4 5 5 Total = 19 This is the place for lovers of wine. La Part des Anges (The Angels' Share, an expression lovingly used to describe that portion of the wine that is lost to evaporation in barrels) is one of France's top wine merchants, and the best at least in Nice. The shop also has a friendly restaurant serving excellent but simple food using local and seasonal ingredients. Olivier Labarde specialises in organic wines, and all France's first rate organic producers, such as Thierry Allemand (Cornas), Stephan (Côte-Rotie), Jamet (CôteRotie), Antoine Aréna (Corsica), and Prieuré-Roch (Burgundy, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti co-owners) are fully represented. There are also traditional top-notch wines, mainly French but also some Italians such as Angelo Gaja. There is a wide range of wines served by the glass for which the customer can choose a bottle off the shelf and drink the wine at the shop price in the restaurant with no additional charge. Olivier has a knowledgeable and friendly staff that show their passion for wine in an agreeable way without any of the arrogance one sometimes associates with the French. Whenever I visit Nice I go out of my way to have lunch or dinner here. It is a place for wine enthusiasts and a haunt of the local middle-class. Prices are reasonable (lunch 15-20 euros, dinner 20-40 euros), except for the traditional top-notch wines which are heavily marked up. I wonder if this is meant to encourage people to try out small, less familiar wine producers... restaurant type: BRASSERIE / trendy / fine dining s c o r e s (1­5. 6 = outstanding.) Food Wine list Service Surroundings 5 4 4 4 Total = 17 Restaurant Georges 20 Waymouth Street Adelaide, South Australia 5000, Australia Tel: +61 8 8211 6960 Ristorante Assagio 92­94 King William Road Hyde Park, Adelaide South Australia tel: +61 8 8272 4748 A fine lunch restaurant right in the heart of the shopping area. Greek-born George is so family-conscious that he prefers to keep his very popular restaurant closed in the evening so he can spend time at home. George is warm-hearted, dynamic and versatile, equally able in the kitchen and the dining room. The food is Aussie fine dining ­ excellent ingredients prepared and served up with a minimum of fuss. The wine list has interesting Australian wines at a reasonable price. I tried a Lake George Winery Pinot Noir 2002: a very Burgundy-inspired wine which is at its most enjoyable right now (91p). But to start with we had a bottle of Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 1997 (97p), which we had brought with us from Finland. George was so impressed by the champagne legend that he adorned one of the shelves in the dining room with the empty bottle! Prices here are reasonable (starters 5-10 euros, main courses 10-20 euros). The restaurant was named Adelaide's best lunch restaurant 2006, and little wonder. restaurant type: brasserie / TRENDY / fine dining s c o r e s (1­5. 6 = outstanding.) Food Wine list Service Surroundings 5 3 4 5 Total = 17 Adelaide is the capital of the state of South Australia. For many the city is known for its Formula 1 racing, which was held here before it went to Melbourne. For wine professionals, Adelaide is Australia's wine capital. The hills nearby are home to many of the country's best wine-growing regions, such as Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. Adelaide also has some splendid restaurants, and this is one of the most interesting. An Italian restaurant with excellent food and a first-rate wine list. Ambitious cooking but nothing gimmicky. Clear, generous and tasty portions. The service is incredibly friendly (several owners in the kitchen and the dining room). The inspiration for the place is the restaurant manager and sommelier Orlando Bagnara, with his roots in Italy, though he has never ac108 F I N E Tetsuya's Restaurant 529 Kent Street Sydney, NSW 2000 Australia Tel: +61 2 9267 2900

Tetsuya's is Australia's most highly acclaimed restaurant. It has also gained an international reputation, being ranked since 2002 among ten of the World's 50 Best Restaurants publication. The restaurant is owned by head chef Tetsuya Wakuda, who moved to Australia from Japan when he was around 20 in the 1980s. It is necessary to reserve a table well in advance ­ I booked mine eight months before my trip to Sydney. The wine list is also famous, though not quite as impressive as I had expected. Of course there are a few rarities: Romanée-Conti 1990, Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 1983, Château Trotanoy 2000, Roederer Crystal 1990, Dom Pérignon 1976. But the selection of Australian wines is exceptionally wide-ranging and includes most of the quality small producers which you do not easily find around the world. The restaurant offers a degustation menu consisting of 10 dishes for a total price of 195 AUD (123 ). The cooking is Japanese-French. The ingredients and the way they are put together are Japanese, but their preparation is French. It all looked and tasted fantastic. I was especially intrigued by the dynamics and balance of the portions and the fact that at no stage did I feel full, even though some portions were generous. The high points for me were the pea purée soup with dark chocolate sorbet, smoked ocean trout with avruga caviar, confit of Tasmanian ocean trout, and grilled Wagyu beef. The service was virtually perfect the whole time. The atmosphere is relaxed and everyone is attentive and friendly. There is a lot of staff and we could not help but admire everyone's professionalism. No matter who you asked, everyone could answer your questions, and in great detail. I had come to choose the wines the day before and decided on a number of Australia's most interesting producers from different regions. Those which stood out most were a Croser 1996 (an excellent and still crisp champagne-quality sparkling wine from the Adelaide Hills, 91p.), a Giaconda Nantua Les Deux Chardonnay 2004 (92p.), a Bass Phillip Pinot noir 2004 "For Tetsuya" (94p. when opened for 24 hours; sommelier's recommendation!), a Pizzini Nebbiolo Coronamento 2002 (94p. and an exact equivalent of Piedmonte quality and style). All in all, Tetsuya's remains in my memory as one of my best ever dining experiences. Dinner for four with sufficient quantities of wine cost a total of 1 200 euros, which can even be considered inexpensive, given the standard of this restaurant. acter, who introduces himself as the sommelier, recommends the house's classics. We choose glasses of Deutz Brut champagne from the serving trolley and I order two red wines: a Drouhin Pinot Noir 1999 from Oregon (89p.) and a Château La Dominique 1998 Saint-Emilion (90p.). Whilst we are waiting for the food they serve delicious bread, sea salt and Planeta olive oil from Sicily. The food was good in the main, but some dishes showed signs of too much effort and gimmickyness. For example, the goose liver ravioli was heavy and crammed with just too many different flavours. In Italy it would have been a lot simpler. Fortunately, our mouths were refreshed with a superb raspberry sorbet, prepared before us with liquid nitrogen and oak leaf syrup (they even told us the date on which the leaves had been harvested), sparkling water, and fresh raspberries. Amazing! All in all, a great experience. A four-course dinner for two with the wines mentioned came to around 500 euros. restaurant type: brasserie / TRENDY / fine dining s c or e s (1­5. 6 = outstanding.) Food Wine list Service Surroundings 4 3 4 4 Total = 15 Restaurangen Mathias Dahlgren Grand Hotel Stockholm, Sweden Tel: +46 8 679 35 84 restaurant type: brasserie / trendy / FINE DINING s c o r e s (1­5. 6 = outstanding.) Food Wine list Service Surroundings 6 4 (although a superb selection of Australian wines) 6 4 Total = 20 Vincents Restaurans Elizabetes Iela 19 Riga Latvia Tel: +371 7332634 Dahlgren's restaurant has gained more media attention than any other new restaurant in Sweden for a while. The restaurant, which opened in May 2007, is located in sumptuous surroundings within the legendary Grand Hotel. There are actually two restaurants, one more laid-back called 'Matbaren' (The Food Bar), open for lunch and dinner, and the other, more formal 'Matsalen' (The Dining Room), for dinner only. Dahlgren took a sabbatical for at least a year after he shut his former one-Michelin-star restaurant, Bob Lloc. By the way, Bob Lloc was my favourite restaurant in Stockholm: innovative Spanish cooking combined with a magnificent wine selection. I decided to try Matsalen. We chose the recommended six-course menu, which would hopefully throw light on Dahlgren's current day culinary philosophy. Excellent Swedish ingredients, locally sourced, innovatively prepared and presented. The first hors d'oeuvre consists of two pieces of bread to enhance the taste of certain kinds of butter. The second is a delightful serving of bacon and eggs. The six courses overall prove too heavy, however. The service is very friendly, but it is prone to needless errors. For example, on two occasions the staff ignored the fact that we have declared various allergies. The wine list is diverse and first-rate, although I would have expected a far larger range of Burgundy wines. Our favourite wines of the evening were Denis Mortet's Gevrey Chambertin "Au Vellé" 2001 (91p.) and Penfold's BIN 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 (94p.). The brasserie-style Matbaren is a very promising place to enjoy good wines and eating in a relaxed environment. restaurant type: BRASSERIE / trendy / FINE DINING s c or e s (1­5. 6 = outstanding.) Food Wine list Service Surroundings 4 4 4 4 Total = 16 Vincents Restaurant is regarded as one of Riga's finest. It is located in a pleasant area and on foot it is about 10 minutes away from the old city. The atmosphere is akin to that of a monastery or cellar, as the dining room is partly below street level. Latvian wine culture is only just beginning to emerge, and Vincents does its best to be at the forefront of this development. The wine list is adequate, though not fascinating in the global context. There are hundreds of wines to choose from but the producers are not among the very best. This is obviously due to the fact that the best producers' wines are still not imported into the country. The young, dynamic char- 109 R E S T A U R A N T S Fi n e D i n i n g

1978 SOLA SOLAIA A 94p 2008/2015 and acidity. This wine will not improve with more cellaring, but can be kept until at least 2013. Deep colour, rimmed in brownish tones. Mature, full nose, with intimations of soil, stables, leather, lead pencil and vegetation. Full-bodied flavour has ample fruitiness and ripe tannins. Long, balanced and complex finish, with traces of blackcurrant, cherry, ripe fruit in addition to mineral qualities 1979 SOLAIA SOLA A 91p 2008/now fresh acidity. This wine will not gain any more ground, but can be stored for a few more years. Deep, garnet colour. Extremely well-developed bouquet: pungent vegetation, earthy aromas, horsiness, cherry, spices, lead pencil shavings and dried figs. The rich flavour is imbued with ripe fruit, red berries and mature tannins. The finish is long, with tinges of cherries, red currants, cranberries and a Fine Solaia vertical tasting 1978­2003 Place: Vinoteekki, Helsinki Organiser: Jukka Viitanen Tasted by: Jukka Viitanen The vertical tasting offered 21 vintages of Solaia. The wines were tasted open. 1982 SOLA SOLAIA A 87p 2008/2012 lean toward dryness. Deep colour, with reddish and brown undertones. Great aromatic complexity. The nose offers soil, leather and vegetation. Medium-bod- ied palate is seasoned with ripe red berries in addition to mineral characteristics and a hint of liquorice. Fairly long finish. The fruity qualities 1985 SOLAIA SOLA A 91p 2008/2015 al, salmiak and liquorice, toffee, with a fine acidity. This wine can be drunk at least until 2020. Dark and deep colour, with a subtle violet tint. A big, fat nose: blackcurrant, chocolate, black cherries, earth, leather and ripe fruits. Full-bodied pal- ate has an intensive, ripe fruitiness and velvety tannins. The finish is nuanced and exceptionally long: black cherry, blackcurrant, ripe red berries, miner- 1986 SOLA SOLAIA A 87p 2008/2012 long finish. This wine will not improve with cellaring, but will keep for a couple more years. A deep, reddish colour. Developing nose contains leatheriness, horsiness and a dash of pepper and to- bacco. The medium-bodied flavour holds essences of blackcurrant, red berries and minerals. Fairly 110 F I N E

1987 SOLA SOLAIA A 87p 2008/2010 and vegetable aromas. Fairly long finish. Rather deep reddish-brown colour. Very complex aromatics. Bouquet of dried fruits, leather, barn- yard and toast. Medium-bodied palate with a delicate undertone of currants, black cherries, spices 1988 SOLA SOLAIA A 93p 2008/2012 for another ten years beginning now. Deep red colour. A rather ample and juicy nose: dark and red berries, earth, barnyard, a touch of walnut and tar and seasonings. Rich taste charac- terised by ripe fruitiness and soft tannins. Long finish: ripe red berries, a hint of salmiak, liquorice and spices. Still a young wine, which can be drunk 1989 SOLA SOLAIA A 83p 2008/2010 nied by a red berry essence. Deep red colour with tinges of brown at the edges. Nose made of complex barnyard aromas, toast, black pepper and green edges. A medium- bodied, somewhat watery flavour is characterised by fruitiness, cherries, a hint of toffee and greenness. The finish is quite long and accompa- 1990 SOLAIA SOLA A 94p 2008/2020 drinking, but will stay in excellent condition until around 2020. A deep, dark, slightly magenta colour. Bouquet of blackcurrant, blueberry, boysenberry, spices, lead pencil and a suggestion of barnyard and tar. Big flavour dominated by an abundant fruitiness and mature, fine tannins. The finish is long and complex: dark berries, minerality, just the right touch of liquorice and salmiak, cherry and a hint of seasoning. Just now coming up on the right age for 1991 SOLAIA SOLA A 84p 2008/2010 long. This wine's fruitiness is already slightly dry. Deep dark red colour. Mature nose offers aromas of earth, barnyard, toast and an undertone of cur- rant. The medium-bodied palate contains red berries, cherries and a touch of green. Finish quite 1993 SOLAIA SOLA A 88p 2008/2010 with cellaring; can be drunk until 2010. Deep dark red colour. Complex bouquet is earthy, curranty and tinted by dried fruits and barnyard aromas. Medium-bodied flavour has a balanced fruitiness, mature tannins, elegant minerality, liquorice and black cherries. Long and refined finish. This wine will not improve 1994 SOLAIA SOLA A 91p 2008/2015 cellaring; drinkable until 2015. Deep, youthful magenta colour. Bouquet dominated by leather, tobacco and toffee. Full-bodied palate offers dark berries, blackcurrant, offer blueberry, chocolatiness and liquorice. Mineral mouthfeel and soft tannins. A long, refined finish. This wine cannot be further improved by 1995 SOLA SOLAIA A 95p 2008/2025 flavour. The finish is very long and large. Drinkable until at least 2025. Dark, deep magenta colour. Developing nose: earth aromas, stables and blackcurrant. Black- currant, blueberry, boysenberry, a touch of walnut, toffee and chocolate can be discerned in the 111 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

1996 SOLA SOLAIA A 88p 2008/2017 The finish is long and seasoned with red berries. Will be at its prime from 2010 to 2017. Deep magenta colour of a young wine. Rather developed nose characterised by ripe red berries, cherry, toast, leather and spices. Multilayered nose. Full-bodied palate has a rather ripe fruitiness and strong acids and tannins. The flavour reveals minerality, cherry, red currant and a touch of green. 1997 SOLA A SOLAIA 94p 2008/2025 very long, with ripe fruitiness, dark berry essences and minerality. This wine is long-lived, in its prime from 2010 to 2025. A deep, dark magenta colour. Juicy, big nose has the aroma of dark berries: blackcurrant, blueberry and boysenberry. Multilayered nose. Under the berry aromas lies dark chocolate, vegetelness, liq- uorice and tobacco. The full-bodied flavour has an ample and very ripe fruitiness as well as abundant ripe tannins. The flavour also offers caramel and cream. The finish is intense, multilayered and 1998 SOLA SOLAIA A 90p 2008/2017 tuated by black cherry and red berries. Best drunk between 2007-2017. A dark, deep bluish colour. The nose has notes of ripe fruit, toast, dark chocolate and dark berries. The full-bodied palate offers excellent fruitiness and soft tannins along with blackcurrant, blueberry, mocha, cream, chocolate and just a whisper of minerality. The finish is balanced and long, accen- 1999 SOLA SOLAIA A 93p 2008/2025 An abundance of ripe fruits and soft tannins. Best between 2008-2008-05-28 A translucently deep magenta colour. The nose offers a ripe blackcurrant and blueberry berriness, leather, allspice, greens and dark chocolate. The rich flavour has a rather ripe fruitiness and stout tannins, tinged with a note of dark berries, liquorice and spices. The finish is bold, refined and long. 2000 SOLA SOLAIA AIA 88p 2008/2015 tle oak and both dark and red berries. The finish is long, acidic and dominated by green aromas. Deep, dark magenta colour. Bouquet slightly developed, leathery, spicy and blackcurranty. Full-bod- ied palate has rather ripe fruity notes and strong tannins as well as blackcurrant, vegetal notes, a lit- 2001 SOLA SOLAIA AI 92p 2008/2025 large, thus placing its ideal drinkability between 2010-2025. Deep magenta colour. Developing nose offers toffee and chocolate aromas, accompanied by big, ripe boysenberries and blackcurrants. The full- bodied flavour has ample fruitiness and soft tannins, followed by a continued ripe berriness, caramel notes and minerality. The finish is long and 2002 SOLA SOLAIA "ANNATA DIVERSA" AI 86p 2008/2013 finish is quite long, with ripe berry undertones. Ideal drinkability from now until 2013. A deep magenta colour. An earthy bouquet with notes of smoke and dark berries. Medium-bodied palate has a ripe fruitiness, with cherries, toffee, vegetal notes, liquorice and a touch of walnut. The 2003 SOLA SOLAIA AI 90p 2008/2020 mineral notes. Long finish. Best drinkability until 2020. Dark magenta colour. The nose is nuanced, berrylike, with notes of caramel and toast. These types of aromas convey a sense of maturity. The 112 F I N E palate offers ripe fruitiness and soft tannins, accompanied by cherry, blackcurrant, walnut, a dash of blueberry, mocha, dark chocolate and

Fine HIRTZBERGER TASTING Place: Tasted by: Weingut Franz Hirtzberger, Wachau, Austria Essi Avellan MW Franz Hirtzberger is one of the most highly esteemed producers in the Wachau Valley. The Hirtzberger family has made wine in the region for generations, but it was Franz Hirtzberger who raised the estate into the undisputed top five. In the wake of Austria's wine scandal in 1985, Hirtzberger and his colleagues established extremely strict quality parameters, thanks to which the valley's white wines are now among the best in the world. Weingut Franz Hirtzberger is located in the village of Spitz, which lies in the western part of the Wachau Valley, the coolest area in the region. This makes Hirtzberger wines lighter and more mineral-dominated, thus charming the drinker with their refinement and pure fruitiness. With 20 hectares of vineyards under cultivation, Hirtzberger is a small family business. The eldest of the family's sons, Franz Jr., shares responsibility for the vineyards and cellars with his father. Hirtzberger wines are rare finds ­ you must literally go to the estate door to acquire them. An astonishingly small percentage of the production output ­ merely 15% ­ goes to export. The wines were tasted open in the presence of the producer. 2006 GRÜNE GRÜNER VELTLINER FEDERSPIEL 89p 2008/now Cool fruitiness, open bouquet: pear and floral notes. Medium-bodied palate with just the right amount of minerality. A balanced and very clean wine, but not particularly multilayered. 2006 GRÜN GRÜNER VELTLINER FEDERSPIEL ROTES TOR 2006 91p 2008/2010 wine exceptionally elegant. Smoky, mineral and pungent nose. The palate continues the nuanced aromatics, and tones of white pepper as well as apple and pear bring intensity to the flavour. Fine, metallic acid structure makes this 2006 GRÜN GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD AXPOINT 89p 2008/2015 drink and different from other wines in this series due to its full-bodiedness and roundness. Compared to the wines above, a decidedly aromatic and perfumed nose. A fruit-driven wine, with a broad and round mouthfeel. A mildly acidic foundation. A fruity, if not very refined wine. Ready to 2006 GRÜN GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD HONIVOGL 94p 2008/2025 tic grapes. Very concentrated, peppery and elegant, with good acidity. 113 T A S T I N G S A big, ripened fruit nose; tropical fruit, apricots and floral notes. The alcohol in the long palate generates warmth, but still remains balanced. A touch of marmalade flavour brought out by botry- Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

HIRTZBERGER TASTING 2006 RIES RIESLING FEDERSPIEL SLI 90p 2008/2012 sive fruitiness. A straightforwardly fruity and exceptionally clean nose: floral aromas and white fruits. The pal- ate matches the nose: medium-bodied mouthfeel works well with the streamlined acidity and inten- 2006 RIES RIESLING SMARAGD HOCHREIN SLI 91p 2008/2020 wine exceptionally elegant. Smoky, mineral and pungent nose. The palate continues the nuanced aromatics, and tones of white pepper as well as apple and pear bring intensity to the flavour. Fine, metallic acid structure makes this 2006 RIES RIESLING SMARAGD SINGERRIEDEL SLI 94p 2008/2025 ing, tight and clean fruity wine. This wine can be bottle matured for a long time. Very powerful, floral nose: fruit aromas and roses. The palate is generous, open and stylishly mineral. Very ripe fruitness supports the outstanding edge of the wine's metallic acid structure. A long-last- Fine BIONDI-SANTI VERTICAL 1945­1998 Place: Tasted by: Fine Editorial Office, Helsinki, Finland Juha Lihtonen Italy's Biondi-Santi must absolutely be included among the world's most legendary wines. The truly unique character of these wines has been written about in history books more than any other Italian wine. Biondi-Santi's much-discussed wines have always symbolised the achievement of the impossible, which has enhanced their mystique. It was truly a momentous occasion to be given the opportunity to taste ten vintages of Biondi-Santi, the oldest dating back 60 years. The roster included the wine that Wine Spectator magazine listed as one of the greatest wines in the world in 1999 - the BiondiSanti Brunello Riserva 1955. The unique and glamorous tasting was, however, overshadowed by one thought: Would the wines live up to our high expectations? The wines were tasted open. Faults could be detected in two of the wines: the 1978 suffered from an unpleasant odour caused by brettanomyces and the 1967 had a minor case of cork taint. 1966 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO N 92p 2008/now x4 ality makes a powerful entrance, carried by an excellent concentration of the palate. A hint of oxidation can be sensed in the finish. An elegant, balanced and satisfying presentation. In its prime right now - no further cellaring. A medium-intensity brick red colour, with some fine sediment. The nose overpowers with its bigness and complexity. The floral notes, dark berries and walnut typical to this variety are brought out and augmented by the tertiary aromas achieved in bottle maturation: beef boullion, root vegetables and leather. The medium-bodied palate is nuanced. The refined acidity washes down the soft tannins and refreshes with the silky refinement of its mouthfeel. In the long finish the wine's miner- 114 F I N E

1968 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO N 86p 2008/2015 turbed by a strange lingering smell in addition to the vinegar note. I lowered my score due to these two factors. This wine is past its prime and should be drunk soon. However, variations from bottle to bottle are indeed possible. A medium-intensity brick red colour, with some fine sediment. The nose is somewhat strange, with notes of wax, sweaty horse and pungent smoke. The medium-bodied palate, however, is clean. A fairly high level of acidity nicely emphasises the aroma of red berries. The tannins are mature and softly rounded. The delicious fruitiness of ripe cherries and its intensity are carried along in the wine's medium-long finish. Vinegar aromas at the close break up the flavour's harmony. I was dis- 1978 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO N 82p 2008/2012 fault in the wine. An unbalanced presentation. If the wine were in good shape, it would still have the potential for longer cellaring, as reflected in its high acidity and robust tannins. The exceptionally dark, almost black, clear colalike colour was astonishing. The nose's odd chemical smell has glue and acetone notes and is also characterised by the strong scent of burnt embers. The medium-bodied palate is dominated by acids and tannins, accompanied by a ghost of fruitness. Instead, the palate's etherealness, volatile acids and mousy aroma revealed a brettanomyces 1983 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO N 88p 2008/2012 intense, with fresh mineral and berry notes. An elegant and balanced wine, which will reveal even more nuances with a short bottle maturation. A rather intensive clear dark ruby colour. The very slightly closed nose is extremely charming, refined and floral, with ripe plum aromas. The medium- bodied palate has a silky mouthfeel, with round tannins, medium acids and a ripe berry fruitiness working in perfect harmony. The finish is long and 1945 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO MONTALCINO RISERVA N 89p 2008/2015 finish is quite short, but balanced. The wine is distantly reminiscent of a Verdelho madeira, which makes it very different from other Biondi-Santis. Moreover, this is a delicious and intriguing wine. An inconceivably pale, mead-like colour, yellowish and cloudy. This wine contains a fairly large amount of fine sediments. The nose is beautifully moderate, slightly reserved, but delicious, with smoke, dried fruit and toast notes. The dry, medi- um-bodied palate is extremely balanced and delicious. Fairly high acidity lifts the wine lightly. The tannins are practically non-existent and the wine's fruit intensity is minimal. Alcohol gives the wine a pleasant glycolic sweetness and roundness. The 1955 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA N 90p 2008/2017 carried along into the finish, which bothers me. The wine is still extraordinarily vibrant and retains enormous maturation potential: I would estimate just over 10 years. A medium-intensity, clear ruby red colour. Intense nose dominated by a resiny herbalness-sage-along with a certain animalism. The somewhat closed bouquet keeps the wine rather one-dimensional. Medium-bodied, crispy acidic palate is augmented by fairly robust tannins and a pleasant fruitiness. The flavour is concentrated and long, but the resiny aroma already encountered in the nose is 1964 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA N 94p 2008/2015 recently reached its prime, it is eminently drinkable right now. The sublimely balanced structure and muscularity promises many more years of maturation, at least until 2015, if not beyond. A truly beautiful russet red, crystal clear colour. Exceptional throughout the vertical. The nose is very satisfying and nuanced - raw coffee, toast, ripe red berries and wood notes, such as teak and cedar. The big, medium-bodied palate is the most in- tensive of the tasting. Lively acids and round, ripe tannins form an excellent structure for the wine, bringing out the truly intensive ripe plum fruitiness. The concentrated and sinewy flavour is balanced, elegant and long-lasting. As this wine has 115 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

BIONDI-SANTI VERTICAL 1945­1998 1967 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA N 87p 2008/2012 Although the cork taint was so marginal that it did not compromise the wine, it still left the impression of great expectations unfulfilled - what if the wine had been in prime condition? This wine is definitely ready to drink right now - I would not recommend further cellaring. A slightly cloudy, rather intense ruby red colour, with a small amount of fine sediment. The nose reveals just a hint of cork taint, but the wine still has much to offer. The mature nose is dominated by earthy aromas, boiled vegetables and dry hay. The medium-bodied palate is extremely pleasant mild acids together with soft tannins leave room for a ripe sour cherriness. The presentation is juicy and finish is quite long. Even though this wine lacks finesse and concentration, it still possesses a certain charming je ne sais quoi. 1970 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA N 87p 2008/now prominent aromas. A lovely, medium-long finish tends toward a vinegariness at the close. In general a good Biondi-Santi, which will not improve with decanting. Should not be cellared anymore. A very deep, tawny red and clear colour; no sediment. The primary nose is very coquettish, with ripe blackberry notes and a roast coffee aroma: cappuccino. Once in the glass and exposed to the air, the wine retreats quickly. The medium-bodied palate has a foundation of crispy acids, around which ripe, mild tannins and a rather understated fruitiness are wound. The blackberry notes are the most 1998 BION BIONDI-SANTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA N 92p 2008/2025 finish is long. The wine is otherwise still closed, due to its young age, but holds great promise for the future. A medium-intensity ruby red colour with beautiful clarity. The nose has an emphasis of ripe dark berries and cherries. The aromas are very floral and aromatic. Oak is very prominent. In the palate the wine reveals its excellent potential: the flavour is extremely fresh, intensive and concentrated. The tannins, alcohol and oak are finely balanced with the medium-bodied blackberry fruitiness and the On the whole, the tasting was an extremely rare event, as ten vintages of Biondi-Santi wines are seldom tasted side by side. Generally speaking, the differences between various vintages were considerable. The ability of wines to keep while in the glass also varied considerably between the different vintages: for example, the 1945 kept for a couple hours in the glass, whereas the 1970 started to suffer after just ten minutes. Did the wines live up to expectations? Partly. The wines were certainly among the finest Italy had to offer in their youth, but in today's extremely wide-ranging selection good is no longer good enough - you have to be the best. The wines were not the best Brunellos I have ever tasted, but Biondi-Santi represents a legend, whose wines offer much more than just a taste experience: they are also seasoned with their unique history. This is what provided us with the greatest pleasure and I, for one, am all the happier for it. Fine Four times a year there is a great feast in one table with five gentlemen. The table is fulfilled with the world's most hunted wines and great en enthusiasm to experience something truly unique. This evening Place: Helsinki, Finland Organiser: Pekka Nuikki Tasted by: Juha Lihtonen PREMIER WINE CLUB TASTING was no exception. Once again the event was rewarding and memorable without one exception. Château L'Eglise-Clinet 1921 magnum was a fraud and thus not evaluated. All wines were evaluated openly. 1884 Moët Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial 96p 2008/now Very elegant texture and lingering vivid finish with lovely nutty aftertaste. Drink up in case you happen to still have this rarity! This rare bottle was in impeccable condition. Deep, golden colour with refined lovely bubbles. Pronounced, complex nose shows rich toasty and nutty aromas, with ripe peachiness and butter116 F I N E scotch. Dry and crisp wine with light-bodied mineral structure. Lovely broad yeasty and toasty flavour with intense peachy notes.

1964 Dom Pérignon 91p 2008/2015 Lovely lingering finish. Nice rich in style although not the best bottle I have enjoyed. Drinking lovely now. Bright, golden yellow colour, no bubbles detected. Moderately intense and evolved nose with dried , fruits, roasted hazelnuts, and yellow apples. Dry medium-bodied wine moderate acidity, and weak mousse. Still moderately intense with nutty and ripe apple flavours. 1945 Musi Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Comte de Vogüe ig 99p 2008/2012 Almost never-ending finish. Top burgundy as its best! Will keep but no will benefit for further cellaring. Clear, medium intense, tawny red colour. Very peculiar nose. Amazingly intense and very delicate aromas with great complexity. Licorice, tar, hints of toast, root vege o oot vegetables, earth, ripe wild strawber- ries and leather. Extremely refined medium-bodied palate. Lovely intensity with flavours of figs, ripe cherries, chocolate and licorice. Firm and energic taste with satin-like texture. 1959 La Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Ro o 94p 2008/2012 ture. Ripe dark fruits and forrest floor flavoursNot a great charmer with elegance, but truly masculine wine for Burgundy. No further ageing. Bright and intense cola colour. Pronounced nose with complex bouquet that changed when ever sniffed. Earthiness, orange peel, cooked vegetasniffed. Earthine bles, toasty, gamey, wild red berries, perfumey and smoky. Dry, medium-bodied wine with gently firm tannins, moderate acidity and intense tex- 1945 Chât Château Haut-Brion te 100p 2008/2015 with figs, dark chocolate, and nutty tones. Superb balance and elegantly rich wine that has a great charm. At its peak, but will keep still up to 2015. Moderately intense tawny colour. Pronounced, rich and evolved nose-horse saddle, manure, sweet root vegetables, and animal aromas. Broad, intense g velvety texture on palate. Medium-bodied structure with moderate acidity and firm but gentle tannins. Long, lingering, and smooth warming finish 1989 Domin Dominus 95p 2008/2017 Long supple finish with velvety texture. Still a youthful wine-enjoys well already but will evolve until 2015-2017. Moderately intense ruby colour. Opulent nose is full of dark fruits-blueberries and cassis, seductive vanilla aromas and hints of smoke. Round and aroma rich medium-bodied wine with firm tannic structure and intense ripe dark fruit and bell pepper flavours. 1985 Sassic Sassicaia 98p 2008/2020 Still the best Italian wine I have ever encountered. Drinking well now but will keep until 20152020. Deep dark ruby colour. Very intense nose shows pronounced cassis notes enhanced with cherry chocolate, hint of tar and smoke aromas. Dry and firm medium-bodied wine has lovely crisp acidifirm medium bod ty balanced with ripe dark fruitiness of blueberries and cassis. Extremely elegant and energetic wine with cedar and belle pepper tones. Long lingering finish. 1921 Chât Château d'Yquem te 91p 2008/now flavours. Not the best bottle of 1921 Yquem, but very enjoyable. Whenever you have access to this wine, I recommend to enjoy. Château-bottled. Very dark, brown colour with olive green rim. Oxidative medium-intense nose shows lovely spectrum of aromas dark chocolate, dried ap cots, co d ed apricots, cocoa, bee wax, and honey. Moderately sweet taste, balancing acidity and very concentrated, intense mouth-feel. Long oxidative finish with chocolate, dried apricots and praline 1945 Quin Quinta do Noval, Da Silva's nta 98p 2008/2025 Great concentration and intense finish. No rush to drink but serves great tasting experience at the moment. Will keep presumably until 2025. 117 T A S T I N G S Moderately intense tawny colour with refined sediment. Truly amazing rich and intense nose delivers dark chocolate, butterscotch, nuts and teak wood aromas. Lusciously sweet and intense tastefigs, prunes, and dark chocolate. Balancing acidity and silky tannins. Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

Fine MASSETO VERTICAL TASTING 1996-2004 Place: Speakers: Tasted by: Rheingau Gourmet & Wine Festival Serena Sutcliffe MW Masseto winemaker Axel Heintz Juha Lihtonen&Pekka Nuikki 2004 MAS MASSETO (vat sample - bottled in December 2006) SSE 89p 2008/2020 ture. The present lack of intensive fruitiness does not hold much promise for a long maturation potential. The wine's freshness does not do justice to the wine just yet. It will improve within a few years and reach its prime in an estimated ten years. An intense purplish ruby red colour. Extremely concentrated and stylish spicy nose, dominated by oak. Notes of ripe blackcurrant, fruitcake and coffee. Big and sophisticated structure comprised of medium acids, strong powdery ripe tannins and ripe berry. Long finish with undertones of spicy aromas, chocolate and coffee. Highly integrated alcohol in the mid palate emphasised almost to the point of distraction at the close. All in all, an elegant vintage, with excellent tannic and acid struc- 2003 MAS MASSETO SS 88p 2008/2015 hot year. On the other hand, this wine lacks delicacy and nuance precisely because of it. Matures at a fairly young age for drinking and will reach its prime in 3-4 years. Ruby red, medium-depth colour. Nose somewhat closed, with ripe fruit, plum, boiled cherry and smoke notes and a hint of medicine. Medium acids, fine, ripe and powdery tannins, and a very ripe fruitiness make for a very big mouthfeel, in which the alcohol is highly integrated. Long finish dominated by spicy tannins, with a cardamom undertone. The presentation is quite balanced for a super 2002 MAS MASSETO SS 88p 2008/2012 at a young age. This wine will always be characterised by its green aromas and somewhat coarse tannins, but, on the other hand, it is also fresher. At its prime in 3-5 years. Ruby red, medium-depth colour. The nose is elegant, open and giving, with notes of green, roasted coffee and an exciting dash of beef boullion. In the palate the wine's greenness is emphasised in the coarse tannins, robust acidity. Due to the cool crop year, the fruit structure remains a touch light in relation to the oak use and oakiness, and the tannins dominate the medium-long finish. Alcohol is also brought out at the close. A big, medium-bodied wine, which matures into drinkability 2001 MAS MASSETO SSE 96p 2008/2025 cohol is nicely integrated in the wine, thus giving it a long finish, with sweet undertones. The wine's presentation is very concentrated, velvety and elegant - it will need another ten years of bottle maturation to reach its prime. Extremely concentrated and beautiful ruby red colour. The nose is very intense and multilayered, but also very elegant. Roasted oak notes provide an excellent foundation for plum, flower and spice aromas. The full mouthfeel is positively delicious. A large, effervescent acid structure is complemented by an intense ripe fruitiness. Mature, extremely fine and ample tannins are sophisticatedly distributed throughout the mouth. The oakiness fills out the wine with a nuanced seasoning. Ample al- 118 F I N E

2000 MAS MASSETO SSE 90p 2008/2015 es through in the finish. On the whole, a tasty, balanced wine, which can be drunk right now, but will continue to mature for a few more years. A clear, medium-intensity and ruby red colour. A large, giving nose, with hints of chocolate, spices and toast. Full-bodied, juicy mouthfeel, with balanced acids and stout, fine tannins. Intensive ripe cherry fruitiness accompanied by earthy aromas - leather and spices. The high alcohol punch- 1999 MAS MASSETO SSE 87p 2008/2012 iniscent of a port wine. It lacks a certain degree of refinement and complexity. Do not cellar long. A clear, medium-intensity ruby red colour. The nose is generous, offering notes of ripe dark berries, walnut, smoke, spices and new oak. A fullbodied and very essential palate. Medium acids, soft ripe tannins and a very ripe fruitiness, which is complemented by toast and seasoned oak notes. In the finish the ample alcohol leaves a warm and glycerol-like trace. This wine is very juicy and rem- 1998 MAS MASSETO SSE 93p 2008/2025 ness. In the words of Serena Sutcliffe, a majestic wine. This wine is ready to drink right now, but will mature nicely over the next ten years. A clear, medium-intensity ruby red colour. The extremely open nose is layered and has a hint of maturity: herbal, raw coffee, cedar, earth notes. In the full-bodied and concentrated palate medium acids working together with slightly rounded, ripe tannins and an intense fruitiness establish an outstanding structure for the wine. There are liquorice, oak and blackcurrant notes, and the addition of vanilla in the finish. The ample alcohol is nicely integrated and gives the wine a glycerolic round- 1996 MAS MASSETO SSE 90p 2008/2012 Persistent long balanced finish with toasty sweet oak flawours, violets, tobacco and chocolate. In very mature condition. A clear, rather intense, slightly developed reddish-brown colour. Very well developed nose, with earthy root notes, fruit essences, ripe, dark berries, cedar, mocha and chocolate. This is a big, medium-bodied wine, with moderable acids, ripe, supple and soft tannins and a medium ripe fruitiness. Fine THE VINE CLUB 20TH ANNIVERSARY TASTING Place: Helsinki, Finland Hosted by: Pekka Nuikki Tasted by: Juha Lihtonen&Pekka Nuikki Founded by Pekka Nuikki, The Vine Club held its 20th anniversary banquet in the gala venue of a top flight Nordic hotel. The prestigious event was attended by some ten distinguished guests, dressed to the nines in their smoking jackets. The occasion was based on the horizontal tasting of legendary wines, which were savoured together with a unique seven-course dinner. 1997 ROE ROEDERER CRISTAL MAGNUM ED 88p 2008/2020 still closed and has not yet revealed its complexity, which it will inevitably acquire with bottle maturation. Not decanted. Lasts two hours in the glass. A bright, yellowish colour with energetic, persistent strands of pearl bubbles. The nose is quite closed, with hints of green apple, green asparagus and yeastiness. A mouth-filling mousse, crisp, fresh acids, lemon aromas and herbal notes. The finish is edgy, lemony green and mineral. The wine is 119 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

THE VINE CLUB 20TH ANNIVERSARY TASTING 1953 KRU KRUG COLLECTION UG 88p 2008/2012 ture. The present lack of intensive fruitiness does not hold much promise for a long maturation potential. An intense purplish ruby red colour. Extremely concentrated and stylish spicy nose, dominated by oak. Notes of ripe blackcurrant, fruitcake and coffee. Big and sophisticated structure comprised of medium acids, strong powdery ripe tannins and st ripe berry. Long finish with undertones of spicy aromas, chocolate and coffee. Highly integrated alcohol in the mid palate emphasised almost to the point of distraction at the close. All in all, an elegant vintage, with excellent tannic and acid struc- 1964 KRUG KRUG 93p 2008/2015 clearly reaching the end of its life. Depending on the bottle, it might still withstand a few more years of proper cellaring, ideally even longer. Serve immediately after opening. Improved with decanting. Lasts 15 minutes in the glass. Extremely developed, medium-intensity golden yellow colour, with brownish nuances. The wine appears slightly cloudy and has some sediment. No bubbles. The nose is truly juicy, round and nutty. The fruitiness is revealed by dried fruit notes, primarily apricot. The medium-bodied palate is crisp- ly acidic, slightly oxidised, but full and complex. The mouthfeel exposes the wine's pleasant mousse. Its aromas are freshly herbal and chocolatey - mint chocolate, that is! The wine develops beautifully in the glass and has a balanced, somewhat long finish. It is still exceptionally drinkable, even if it is 1975 KRUG KRUG 84p 2008/2020 ter Krugs from the same year that were still in good shape, so wines that are still in their proper condition could still have years of potential. Not decanted. Lasts 20 minutes in the glass. A clear, medium-intensity golden yellow colour. No bubbles. An extremely well developed and unusual rustic nose, whose floral, root and barnyard notes bring to mind a mature Pinot Noir. Dry, light mouthfeel; no mousse. A mere suggestion of mint changes to lemon and metal in the short fin- ish. This particular wine has unfortunately begun its decline and is no longer very enjoyable. The wine's surprisingly developed appearance and unusual nose hint at the poor condition of this specific bottle. The shortness and metallicness of the palate confirm our suspicions. I have enjoyed bet- 1976 KRUG KRUG 94p 2008/2015 A presently very delicious wine, which still has the potential for another 10 years of bottle maturation. Not decanted. Lasts 20 minutes in the glass. A clear, medium-intensity golden yellow colour. No bubbles. Intensive, full and attractive nose, with hints of cappuccino and nutmeg seasoning. A dry, pert, fresh palate and a lovely rich mousse in the mouthfeel as well as stout tannins. The multilayered aromatics offer creamy, yeasty and roasted coffee nuances. A long, elegant and harmonious presentation. 1989 KRUG KRUG 93p 2008/2017 Not decanted. Lasts one hour in the glass. Another Krug from the same year that I recently tasted was already very mature, heavily toasted, mildly acidic and creamy. I do not foresee any more long periods of bottle maturations for this wine. A clear, medium-intensity golden yellow colour, with lively, playful and small bubbles. An aggressively full and fresh nose, with notes of green apples and a touch of yeast and brioche. A dry, crisply fresh and mineral palate, whose ample mousse mine gives the wine a youthful appearance. Green, lemon and herbal aromas. The finish is long and intensive. This wine is still very juvenile, and its full complexity has yet to be realised. It will gain ground in the next 5-10 years. 1995 KRUG KRUG 92p 2008/2025 just yet. Although only time will tell how the wine will develop, bottle maturation is necessary for the wine to truly give more of itself. Not decanted. Easily lasts almost an hour in the glass. A clear, light yellowish colour. Abundant, fine bubbles. The nose is still rather closed, but in addition to a certain creaminess and brioche notes the delicious bouquet has a bit of herbalness to it. Extremely crisp acidity, together with mineral120 F I N E ity and a medium bodied mousse create a wonderful mouthfeel. Lemon and Jerusalem artichoke also come forth in the flavour. The finish is long, but quite short. This wine is still quite young, so it is unable to exhibit its bigness and complexity

1923 DRC ROMANÉE-CONTI CR 99p 2008/now A magnificent and harmonious presentation. It is still eminently drinkable and requires no further cellaring. Decanted just before serving. Lasts 15 minutes in the glass. Very pale and diaphanous cherry red colour, with orange tints. The nose is extraordinarily complex, developed and nuanced. The initial nose is very aromatic and perfumey - violets and rose petals. Underneath this, however, lies a succulent, earthy fra- grance, with notes of willow, tar and a breath of methol. The wine has a light, gossamer mouthfeel. Carried by tart acids and red berries, the elegantly mineral palate is silky smooth. The medium-long finish is exceptionally refined and delicate. 1952 DRC ROMANÉE-CONTI C 92p 2008/now The rather long, fat finish is no longer what it used to be. No further cellaring. Decanted 30 minutes prior to serving. Lasts 20 minutes in the glass. A clear, rather pale brick red colour. A rich, extremely smoky, even ashy nose, which offers floral notes. A medium-bodied palate, with medium acids and a slightly coarse character. Notes of cranberry, pungent smokiness, and burnt embers. 1957 DRC ROMANÉE-CONTI C 98p 2008/now Still in the full bloom of her beauty, this divine creature will no longer improve with maturation. Decanted 45 minutes before serving. Lasts 25 minutes in the glass. A clear, medium-intensity, black cherry red colour. A complex and giving nose, with notes of spice, toasted leather and a nuanced floweriness. The palate is broad and balanced by the right amount of refreshing acidity. The silky mouthfeel gives the wine an elegant air, but it lacks the complexity and harmony of a super-wine. Each time this 'meditation wine' is smelled, new nuances are discovered. 1976 DRC L TÂCHE C LA 95p 2008/2015 time. A charming, soulful wine at its prime, and perhaps even just a bit over the hill. Decanted for 1.5 hours. Lasts 30 minutes in the glass. A slightly cloudy cherry red colour with orange tints. The nose is developed, with powerful notes of ripe cherries and a very understated wood frap grance. The mouthfeel is refreshing, somewhat hollow and robust. The wine improved after opening in the glass, revealing new aromas time after 1978 DRC LA TÂCHE C 95p 2008/2020 At its absolute prime drinking age right now, but will keep its balanced structure intact for another 10-15 years. Decanted 1.5 hours. Lasts 30 minutes in the glass. A translucent, cherry red colour of medium-intesity. The surprisingly youthful nose is simultaneously fat and refined, retaining ripe red forest berries and floral notes. The youthful character is also found in the palate. The tannins are robust and acidity refreshing. The mouthfeel is still dominated by fruit. 1928 CHÂ CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS ÂT 90p 2008/now Having seen better days, this wine can still be enjoyed for a few more years. Developed, medium-intensity colour. The nose has a nuanced beef boullion-like texture, with notes of toast, coffee and lead pencil shavings. The nose promises greater flavour than the palate is capable of offering. A slightly watery and metallic wine, whose medium-long finish is very rustic. 1945 CHÂ CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS ÂT 94p 2008/2012 retains its elegance. However, it no longer has good cellaring potential. Decanted for 1.5 hours. Lasts one hour in the glass. 121 T A S T I N G S Château-bottled. A medium-depth, clear ruby red colour. Open nose, with nutty, balsamic vinegar and leather notes. Palate contains oxidised elements and an average fruity intensity. A long, pleasant finish enhances the wine's enjoyability. Even though this wine has seen better days, it still Fi n e Ta s t i n g s THE VINE CLUB 20TH ANNIVERSARY TASTING

THE VINE CLUB 20TH ANNIVERSARY TASTING 1966 CHÂ CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS ÂT 89p 2008/2015 Will not gain any more ground, but can be cellared for several more years without losing any. Decanted for approximately one hour. Lasts 45 minutes in the glass. A developing clear brick red wine. The palate is powerful, with accents of green pepper and vegetable aromas. The palate acidity is restrained, the aromas green, indicating a cold year, and the tan- nins somewhat brusque. A bony wine with a medium-long finish. Does not contain enough fruit to wait for the tannins to soften. 1975 CHÂ CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS ÂT 92p 2008/2015 Decanted 1.5 hours. Lasts two hours in the glass. Intensive ruby red hue, tinged with brick red. Big, succulent aromatics, with notes of liquorice and ripe blackcurrants. Fresh palate and meaty fin- ish. Soft, round tannins very reminiscent of a New World wine. An exceptionally rich, fruity wine at its prime right now. 1989 CHÂ CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS ÂT ­p No points awarded due to cork taint. 1986 CHÂ CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM ÂTE 87p 2008/2020 left, but the wine has passed its prime. Decanted just before serving. Lasts 30 minutes in the glass. A medium-depth brown, cola-like colour. The palate is closed, slightly nutty, with apricot and wool notes. A sweetishly concentrated, volatile, but warming alcohol taste. There is still some fruitiness 1950 CHÂ CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM ÂT 90p 2008/2012 Will not improve with ageing anymore. Decanted for 2.5 hours. Lasts one hour in the glass. A dark, deep brownish yellow colour. The closed nose offers a hint of botrytic, honeyish and marmaladey nuances as well as raisin. The palate is sweet and broad, toasty and plummy. The finish is very long, reminiscent of dried raisins. A drying wine with some degree of fruitiness left. 1959 CHÂ CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM ÂT 86p 2008/now modest presentation, which is past its prime. Decanted for 1.5 hours. Lasts one hour in the glass. A clear, intensive golden yellow colour, with amber highlights. Waxy, slightly flat apricot nose. The palate is sweetish and has a coarse structure. Botrytis, apricot and orange peel in the finish. A very 1990 CHÂ CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM ÂT 95p 2008/2030 bottle maturation. Decanted immediately before serving. Lasts 30 minutes in the glass. Decanted 2.5 hours. Lasts for several hours in the glass. A clear, deep yellow colour. The nose offers intensive honey notes with a reductive elegance. The apricot and marmal marmalade fruitiness will open in time. Stylish and layered. A sweet, freshly acidic and concentrated palate. Just now entering its prime drinkability, and will withstand another 10-20 years of 1931 NIEP NIEPOORT VINTAGE PORT P 92p 2008/2020 chocolatey finish and harmonious presentation. Decanted for 6 hours. Lasts an hour in the glass. A cloudy, brownish colour. The nose is characterised by almonds, nuts and plums. Light acidic feel. 122 F I N E The palate is sweet, spicy and its perceptibly high alcohol content has a warming effect. A pleasant

Fine ITALY TASTING Place: Tasted by: The editorial staff of Fine magazine and a few invited guests gathered to taste Italian wines, ranging from vintages past all the way to the present day trends. The tasting provided a large number of surprises; unfortunately, there was more cause for disappointment than Fine editorial office, Helsinki, Finland Juha Lihtonen cheer. In general the young Italians held promise for improvement, whilst the older vintages had all already given up the ghost. The wines were tasted open in two rounds. First came the mature vintages (1957-1969), followed by the younger vintages (1989-2004). 1966 GAJA BARBARESCO A 72p 2008/now the weak tannins and moderate acidity remaining. A short, metallic, and vinegar notes in finish. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 5 minutes in the glass. A translucent, cloudy and brownish colour with sediment. Juicy, s slightly oxidised nose, with earthy aromas and notes of plum and fig. The palate revealed the unpleasant effect of oxidation. This light-bodied wine had lost its fruitiness, with only 1968 LUIG LUIGI BARBARESCO G 75p 2008/now mouth-washing acid structure is still able to carry the wine. A short, tart finish. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 5 minutes in the glass. Clear, translucent and reddish-brown colour. The nose is extremely volatile: vinegar, balsamic and y vegetal notes. Light-bodied palate contains rather pronounced acidity and pleasantly ripe tannins. Although there is practically no fruitiness left, the 1957 VILL VILLA ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO LA 84p 2008/2020 The wine's volatility is brought out in its slightly coarse, medium-long finish. The structure, however, is still solid. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 10 minutes in the glass. Medium-intense and slightly cloudy, brownish colour. Vegetal nose has hints of bamboo shoots, soy, leather and nut. Freshly acidic, medium-bodied palate, with balanced tannins. 1971 FON FONTANAFREDDA BAROLO NT 80p 2008/now this a light-bodied wine. Vinegar flavours in short finish. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 10 minutes in the glass. Medium-intensite, cloudy reddish-brown colour. The nose is surpr surprisingly ample, nutty and earthy, The with notes of stearine waxiness typical of Barolos as well as a yoghurt-like aroma. Medium-level acidity, mild tannins and a thin fruit veneer make 1971 TERR TERRE DEL BAROLO R 80p 2008/now ish shows more decadent flavours. This wine still has a bit of life left in it, but its glory days are long since past. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 10 minutes in the glass. Very light, brick red colour with some sediment. The nose is vegetal and earthy, with a hint of ling gonberry. A crisp, vivid acidity and medium-bodied tannins give the wine a light mouthfeel. Hint of lingonberry flavours but the medium-long fin- 1974 BOR BORGOGNO BAROLO RISERVA BRUNATE RG 80p 2008/now The finish is short and metallic, showing some vinegar flavours. No cellaring. 123 T A S T I N G S Short decanting. Lasts 10 minutes in the glass. Dark, silty, cola-like colour. A juicy round and earthy nose, with boiled vegetable, stearine wax and yoghurt notes. Medium-level acidity with rather firm tannins need a withdrawn fruitiness. The wine is light-bodied and slightly metallic. Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

ITALY TASTING 1961 CAN CANTINE DIVER VINO SPANNA GATTINARA NT 76p 2008/now On a positive note with lean palate. Otherwise, this wine had a strange bouquet compared to the others. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 10 minutes in the glass. A clear, light, medium-intensity cola-like colour. A very giving, pure nose, with notes of stearine, smoke and sweet toasted nuances. An extreme- ly acidic, light wine, whose medium-bodied tannins work together with the acids to form a lively mouthfeel. There is no fruitiness and the mid-palate and finish fall far short of the mark. 1969 BRO BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO OL 81p 2008/now The finish is quite short, but balanced. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 15 minutes in the glass. A translucent, clear and brownish colour. The nose offered notes of boiled vegetables, earth and suc- culence. The light structure is characterised by marked acidity and tannins as well as a light berriness and minerality. 1979 CAST CASTELLO BANFI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 77p 2008/now this wine's fruitiness is drying out. A rather short, metallic finish. No cellaring. Short decanting. Lasts 15 minutes in the glass. An exceptionally deep, clear, reddish-brown colour. A gentle, closed nose, with a strange unpleas- ant odour. A light wine, with lively acidity and medium-intensity tannins dominating the palate. There is some intensity in the palate texture, but YOUNGER VINTAGES ­ 1989­2004 1998 CER CERETTO BARBARESCO BRICCO ASILI R 92p 2008/2030 the bottle for another 10 years and keep for a further 10 after that. Beautiful, clear, slightly developed cherry red colour. Elegant, complex nose, with notes of nut, stearine wax, violets, smoke and herbs, and a suggestion of eucalyptus. Lively acidity, refined tan- nins and a medium-bodied ripe berry fruitiness give the wine a very finely balanced palate, which is very long lasting. A silky and feminine wine, which will develop in 2000 PIO CESARE BARBARESCO CES 88p 2008/2015 Ready to drink right now. Will keep for another 5-10 years. A medium-intensite, clear cherry red colour. Ample, round, toasty nose, with notes of ripe red berries. Medium-level acidity, a ripe, mild berriness and soft, chunky tannins provide a generous, medium-bodied mouthfeel, which is dominated by toasted oak. Medium-long finish. Modern style. 2001 CERE CERETTO BAROLO BRICCO ROCCHE BRUNATE 91p 2008/2030 and lingonberry notes. Long finish. A young wine, which will see improvement with 15-20 years maturation. A ruby red, medium-intense, clear colour. A large, refined, complex nose, with hints of smoke, violets, blackberries and a whisper of new oak and al, cohol. High-level acidity, intensive berry fruitiness and firm tannins set the balance, which is nicely complemented by the high alcohol content. Anise 2001 PIO CESARE BAROLO C 87p 2008/2017 is lacking in elegance due to the generous use of oak. Medium-long finish. Can be cellared for another 5-10 years. Medium-intensite clear reddish-brown colour. A large nose, offering notes of ripe red berries and a toastiness, in which the new oak rolls over the wine's delicacy. A lively acidity, ripe, ample tan124 F I N E nins and overpowering new oak leave behind the fruit and the wine feels medium-bodied. The palate is very essential, with the fruit aromas revealing hints of raspberry and wild strawberry. This wine

2000 SANDRO SANDRONE LE VIGNE BAROLO 90p 2008/2017 ry and raspberry notes. This wine, however, could do with a bit more vivacious backbone. Should be cellared 5-10 years. A clear, ruby red colour. Lively, complex nose, with notes of raspberry and a touch of roasted coffee. Delicious and seductive. The medium-bodied palate is balanced, with the moderate acidity and ripe tannins working together with the ripe berriness to achieve a pleasant balance. The long finish is complemented by wild strawber- 1999 SANDRO SANDRONE BAROLO CANNUBI BOSCHIS 87p 2008/2025 short and the flavours seem to lack coherence. A short 2-4 cellaring could be helpful. Clear, intense, ruby colour. The pronounced muscular, toasty and caramel nose is augmented by ripe raspberries. Together with a surprisingly pun- gent oakiness, the wine's strong acidity and mature tannins steal the show from the medium-intense, cranberry-like fruitiness. The finish is surprisingly 1996 POG POGGIO ANTICO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO G 87p 2008/2014 for 5-7 years. Clear, medium-intensity ruby red colour. Intensive, somewhat closed nose, with ripe fruity notes. A truly effervescent acidity, robust tany nins and lots of red berries. The finish is long, but somewhat one-dimensional. Will most likely open up after further cellaring 1989 COL D'ORCIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO L 91p 2008/2012 rough close. Do not cellar for a long period of time - no more than 2-3 years. A clear, medium-intensity brownish red colour. Absolutely sophisticated, developed and deep nose, with aromas of ripe vegetables, refined toastiness - all in all, seductively coquettish. The elegant medium-bodied palate with crisp acidity is characterised by balanced tannins, a moderately intense fruitiness, heaps of red berries, mocha and peppers. The finish falls a bit short, with a slightly 2001 ARG ARGIANO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO GIAN 90p 2008/2015 ry and raspberry notes. This wine, however, could do with a bit more vivacious backbone. Should be cellared 5-10 years. A clear, ruby red colour. Lively, complex nose, with notes of raspberry and a touch of roasted coffee. Delicious and seductive. The medium-bodied palate is balanced, with the moderate acidity and ripe tannins working together with the ripe berriness to achieve a pleasant balance. The long finish is complemented by wild strawber- 2004 SANDRO SANDRONE BAROLO CANNUBI BOSCHIS 87p 2008/2014 al. Very modern style and wine would benefit for further ageing next 3-6 years. Extremely deep, intensive purplish colour. A slightly reductive nose, with notes of pepper, walnut, oak and kiwifruit. A strongly acidic, medium- bodied palate, with robust medium-intensity tannins. A rather intensive rip cherry fruitiness. The medium-long finish is somewhat one-dimension- 2004 FON FONTODI CHIANTI CLASSICO NTO 89p 2008/2012 mensional. Should be cellared for 3-6 years. A clear, medium-intensity ruby colour. The floral, intensive, somewhat peppery and smoky nose has rich dark berry notes. Exceptionally nuanced. High-level acidity and harsh tannins, moderately intense fruitiness and a long, warm and balanced alcoholic finish. Still a bit one-di- 125 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s ITALY TASTING / YOUNGER VINTAGES ­ 1989­2004

ITALY TASTING / YOUNGER VINTAGES ­ 1989­2004 2002 SERR SERRE NUOVE DELL'ORNELLAIA R 88p 2008/2013 balanced finish. Should be cellared for 3-6 years. The very deep, clear ruby red colour. Ripe fruit, floral, blackcurrant, smoke and even fried bacon notes. A medium-bodied wine with moderate acid- ity gets its backbone from the ripe, powdery tannins. Intriguingly pronounced fruitiness characterised by dark berries, anise and oak. A very long 2002 ORN ORNELLAIA NE 92p 2008/2018 delicacy of a good vintage. Mature 8-10 years. An extremely deep, intense magenta colour. Ample, refined nose, offering notes of coffee, blackcurrant and toast. A mouth-filling, full-bodied palate, with moderate acidity, firm, slightly green tannins, concentrated fruitiness and velvety long finish. A very well-made wine, but lacking the nuance and 2003 FON FONTODI FLACCIANELLO DELLA PIAVE NT 93p 2008/2018 ing finish with intense cherry flavours. Absolutely charming wine. Drinks well now but will reach its peak in 10 to 12 years. An exceptionally deep, clear, reddish-brown colour. Lovely Sangiovese nose with seductive complexity. Rich in sour cherry aromas, nuts and leath- er. Vivid acidity and supple tannins are balanced with elegantly intense fruitiness. Medium-bodied palate shows great concentration. Long linger- 2003 ARG ARGIANO SOLENGO GI 91p 2008/2017 a long peppery finish. Clear, deep, dark purple colour. The nose is unmistakably Rhône in character - smoke, bacon, violets and animal notes. With its full- bodied, moderate acidity and robust tannins as well as an intensive fruitiness, this wine has a velvety texture with lots of dark berries, and 1997 COL D'O L D'ORCIA OLMAIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 89p 2008/2010 wine. The finish is long, but very developed. Do not cellar for long. A clear, medium-intensity, developed ruby red colour. Aromatic and essential blackcurrant nose, with herbal and meat notes. This is a rather full- bodied and refreshingly acidic wine, whose tannins dry out the already dry fruitiness. I would like to see greater concentration in the 126 F I N E

Fine J.P. MOUEIX TASTING PRESENTED BY Edouard Moueix Place: Château Pay Latour, Bordeaux Organiser: Institute of Masters of Wine Tasted by: Phlip Tuck MW Perhaps it is as a result of the recent hot vintages and the influence of certain American wine writers that many of the best wines on the Right Bank in Bordeaux have a reputation for being somewhat extracted and overly powerful. Judging by a recent tasting of the wines from the JP Moueix stable, this is certainly not a criticism that can be levelled at their wines, even in one of the most successful vintages ever, 2005. Instead, these wines, by enlarge, exhibit freshness with discretion and elegance. None of the wines could be criticised for being pinched by too much new oak or for being overly hot and alcoholic despite the obviously low yields. Early harvesting is clearly the mantra here and it is done as quickly as possible, often with large enough teams to complete the job in a single day. They are ultimately very drinkable whilst also showing an authentic sense of place and all credit to them for this. Nor is the stamp of the vintage lost, such is the desire to intervene as little as possible in the vinification process. Each property possesses very subtle differences in style but they all try to entice. Indeed, the upright and suave Edouard Moueix is keen to point out that the drinkability factor is never lost in his wines. -Over extraction and over ripeness is our enemy. We look for balance; and with this balance comes both elegance and drinkability... The judicious use of French oak permeates through the range enhancing this drinkability factor, something with which I wholeheartedly concur, and this is not lost on the family either: -We drink a bottle of champagne every day and two bottles of red wines... I would hate a good bottle to change into a good glass due to too heavy wines! This philosophy permeates through all the wines in the group which now extends to ten chateaux in Pomerol and one in Saint Emilion. Having been started by Eduard's Grandfather, Jean-Pierre in 1937 purely as a wine merchant, he quickly realised that control of vineyards was the best way to secure quality in the bottle. Times were very tough economically and vineyards were literally being given away. In 1952 he bought Château Trotanoy and this was quickly followed by Château La Fleur-Pétrus, and, amongst others, their only investment in St Emilion, Château Magdelaine. This tasting focuses on Chateaux Magdelaine, Belair (not owned by Moueix), Lafleur-Pétrus, Latour à Pomerol, Hosana and Trotanoy from the 2001 and 2005 vintages. THE TASTING 2001 Chât Château Magdelaine t 91p 2008/2015 Fresh and clean with moderate to high concentration leading to seamless fine elegant finish. Best in the medium term. Drink now - 2015. 11 hectares. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. 35 year old vines. Early harvest. Lightish garnet red (only 18 days on skins) with slight sign of age. Lovely lifted scent of red cherry and dried tea. Some developed complexity on the nose. Well integrated oak. 2001 Chât Château Belair teau 90p 2008/2015 nearly half of the vineyard is on slopes where firmer tannins seem to be the norm. This is still immature with less evolved flavours. 2009 - 2015. 12.5 hectares. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 30 year old vines. Winemaker Pascal Delbeck has crafted a more full bodied and robust style than that of Magdelaine. Very plummy, ripe and a little more oaky also. Dry, medium bodied palate yet perhaps a little angular and diffuse. This has more structure as 2001 Chât Château Latour à Pomerol teau 92p 2008/2015 Excellent balance gives a long elegant finish full of class and sophistication. Approachable now but will keep well. Now - 2015. 7.5 hectares in two parcels. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Still quite deep and dark. Youthful colour yet quite open and expressive nose. Truffles, cassis and dried tea combine to give a very aristo- cratic complex aroma. 30% new oak is well integrated. This is soft and velvety in texture yet fresh and highly drinkable despite vibrancy of youth. 127 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s

J.P. MOUEIX TASTING / PRESENTED BY Edouard Moueix 2001 Chât Château Lafleur-Pétrus t 93p 2008/2018 vour. It is beautifully balanced again and not at all heavy despite impressive concentration for the vintage. 2010 - 2018. 13.5 hectares. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 30% new oak. This fine example displays very, very elegant tobacco, chocolate and cedar notes on the nose. Quite forward on the nose despite being one of the deepest wines of the tasting. Very long and concentrated with wave after wave of fine, pure fla- 2001 Chât Château Hosanna t 95p 2008/2015 The palate is medium full bodied and mouth filling with great length on the finish. Perhaps the most enticing and drinkable yet. Now - 2015. 4.5 hectares. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 45 year old vines. First vintage 1999. 50% new oak. Deepish unevolved colour with strong garnet rim. Q Quite bold and foursquare on the nose with plenty of creamy oak in evidence. Lots of depth with a very attractive beguiling, scent. Quite floral. Very concentrated and seemingly a little low in acidity. 2001 Chât Château Trotanoy t 96p 2008/2020 gant. Full bodied and gently voluptuous even. Fine grained fresh tannins on a beautifully balanced long finish. Lovely. 2010 - 2020. 7.2 hectares of 38 year old vines. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Deepest colour of all the 2001s. Slightly herbal and earthy with delicious purity and poise on the nose. This is all about bold black fruit and firm, backward unresolved tannins. Very impressive and classy yet still scented and ele- 2005 Chât Château Magdelaine t 93p 2008/2022 2012 - 2022. Deep dark garnet red. Youthful. Bold tight flavours with slight vaneer of vanillary oak. Impressive concentration of really pure red and black fruit flavours. Perhaps a little angular still but there is a lot of wine potential in this wine. Full bodied with seamless tannins on the finish. 2005 Chât Château Belair teau 94p 2008/2015 see greater concentration in the wine. The finish is long, but very developed. Do not cellar for long. No decanting. Lasts one hour in the glass. A clear, medium-intensity, developed ruby red colour. Aromatic and essential blackcurrant nose, with herbal and meat notes. This is a rather fullbodied and refreshingly acidic wine, whose tannins dry out the already dry fruitiness. I would like to 2005 Chât Château latour à Pomerol t 95p 2008/2015 This is dry, long and tight with fabulous potential yet delicious already. Beautifully made. Drink 2013 - 2025. Tight and closed initially with muted oak yet polished and silky on the early palate. Undoubtably concentrated with lovely ripe but not overripe fla- vours. The palate is held together with delicious fresh acidity and very fine grained tannins. 2005 Chât Château Lafleur-Pétrus t 94p 2008/2022 Full bodied with seamless tannins on the finish. 2012 - 2022. Deep dark garnet red. Youthful. Bold tight flavours with slight vaneer of vanillary oak. Impressive concentration of really pure red and black fruit flavours. Perhaps a little angular still but there is a lot of wine potential in this wine. 128 F I N E

2005 Chât Château Hosanna t 90p 2008/2025 There is the fruit concentration of the finish to last well even if it is in the drier spectrum. Drink 2023 - 2025. Again very slow to emerge but great underlying complexity and flashiness. Very poised and correct on the nose. Deep dark brooding and concentrated without being at all heavy. Lovely ripe fruit here if slightly "edgy". The acid seems a little higher here than in the other wines which has given a slightly angular feel to the wine but I'm sure it will integrate in time. 2005 Chât Château Trotanoy t 96p 2008/2028 tration. Tremendous potential again from this most impressive of vintages. Drink 2013 - 2028. Beautifully lifted and pure fruit perfume. This is undoubtably classy and fine. The oak just shows but is well integrated already. Very ripe and con- centrated again but not a hint of over ripeness or flabbiness. Freshness and drinkability ooze from this wine despite the obvious power and concen- Fine Château Pétrus Vertical Place: Helsinki 24.5.2008 Organiser: Jan-Erik Paulson & Pekka Nuikki Tasted by: Essi Avellan MW The specialists of fine and rare wines Jan-Erik Paulson and Pekka Nuikki organised together with FINE Magazines a remarkable Pétrus vertical of 20 vintages. This unique event in Helsinki set the sight in Pétrus from the period it has really made its breakthrough in the world markets between 1945-1990. Some of the bottles turned out to be faulty ones or poor bottles, such as 1945, 1947, 1949 and 1952 (37.5cl bottles). It is likely that p poor q quality of some of the wines was to due to inproper storaging y conditions rather than inferior wine itself. When saying that, we ought to remember that Merlot from Pomerol has no way as near the ageing potential of Cabernet Sauvignon from the left bank. That is why it was not surprising that the vintages from 1970-80's were in the best shape. The most recent wines 1988, 1989 and 1990 impressed with their current drinkability: refreshing and firm with ripe fruitiness and harmonious balance that make these wines very appealing already now. 1 1945 Chât Château Pétrus t 89p 2008/now Medium deep developed brick red colour. Roasted nose with red pepper, dried fruits, hint of tar, leather, and farmyard notes as well as some volatility. The nose is lifted and fresh, however the palate is unfortunately a bit loose and lacking concentration. Vivid acidity, dried raisiny fruit-character with leathery flavours. Hardly any tannins left while the alcohol is quite apparent on the palate making a little burning sensation in the aftertaste. Most likely this bottle has suffered from improper storage conditions. 1947 Chât Château Pétrus t ­ The bottle was out of condition. 1949 Chât Château Pétrus (NOT EVALUATED) t ­ The bottle was out of condition. 129 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s J.P. MOUEIX TASTING / PRESENTED BY Edouard Moueix

Château Pétrus Vertical 1950 Chât Château Pétrus t 92p 2008/now Deep brownish red developed colour. Elegant and very complex nose full of promise: bell pepper, leather, tar, mint, licorice, black olives, earthiness, beef stock and toffee. However, the medium bodied palate is already losing its fruit and charm. The tired mouth-feel is smooth with fully matured tannin. Enjoyable today but the wine will no longer improve. 1952 Chât Château Pétrus t 87p 2008/2012 The first bottle we tried was a château bottling. Weak, roasted and earthy nose with some ele- gant wood notes and spices. The palate medium-bodied with fully mature tannin and a short finish. Drink now or within the next 5 years. 1952 Chât Château Pétrus t 83p 2008/now This was an Avery bottled half bottle that had been resting in the Avery cellars until now. The bottle format had done no good to the wine though as it was clearly more developed and edgy than the château bottling. Roasted, high-toned nose with tar, plums and volatile notes. Not recommendable from half bottles any more. 1953 Chât Château Pétrus t 93p 2008/2017 Medium deep developed colour. The complex, meaty and vegetal nose is fascinating, intense and lively: tar, red pepper, dark chocolate, ripe plums, violets, smoke, pralines, spices and farmyard notes. The palate is still fruity with delicate acidity and some mature tannin left. Peculiar dark mint chocolate flavours in lovely lingering and elegant finish. The wine will no longer improve but it can be kept for 5 to 10 more years. 1955 Chât Château Pétrus teau 87p 2008/now Relatively pale brick red colour. The nose is dusty with vegetal notes, forest floor as well as roasted meat like aromas. The palate is smooth with velvety tannins. Low fruit intensity shows mainly dried fruits, like prunes. The acidity is not capable on refreshing the taste and the result is a plump taste with no real back bone 88p 2008/2012 present. The wine is on its way down but still enjoyable today. 1959 Chât Château Pétrus t This Lafite bottling was in a relatively good form with some delicate complexity on the nose, savoury notes, roasted smoky aromas and leather. The palate has accentuated acidity and the fruit is losing its intensity. Tight and firm palate that is alive but will no longer improve. Drink within the next 5 years. 1964 Chât Château Pétrus t 89p 2008/2015 Dark brick red colour. The dark-toned nose is soft, inky, tarry and fruity. Attractive combinay y tion of smoothness and firmness. Some maturing tannin left. Medium long fruity and roasted aftertaste. Drink now - 2015. 1970 Chât Château Pétrus t 98p 2008/2017 Deep brick red colour. Elegant, complex yet pronounced nose with bell pepper, earthy tones, tobacco leaf, black truffles and beef stock. Rich 130 F I N E and firm structured wine on palate. The big volume of mouth-drying tannin raises questions if it will ever soften. Full and alive, fruity with a charming combination of elegance and power. Drink within the next 15 years.

Deep brownish garnet colour. Endless complexity on the nose ­ toasty, sweet, dried fruit nose full of paprika, salted licorice, chocolate, walnuts, hint of blac truffles, violets, and dark black berries. Powerful yet super smooth even silky palate with the highest tannic grip so far. Full and round fruity taste which charms with its balance and elegance. Peaking now but the wine will keep for 10 to 15 more years due to the great harmony. 1973 Chât Château Pétrus t 91p 2008/2015 Beautifully developed brick red colour. The elegant nose is fragi and delicate with perfumery fragile notes and red fruit. The nuanced palate has matured tannin and refreshing acidity. Charming velvety mouth-feel with impressive depth and length. Today ­ 2015. 1975 Chât Château Pétrus t 90p 2008/2017 Medium deep brick red colour. The nose is voluptuous and bright: red berries, glue, licorice, tobacco and tar. The rich and thick palate has some tannic backbone left. Juicy and chewy, smooth texture. The wine is fully alive, however it has no great finesse or charm to it. Drink within the next 10 years. 1982 Chât Château Pétrus teau 94p 2008/2015 Deep ruby-brick red colour showing some development. The nose is more welcoming and open than the no of the 1985. Soft, spicy, rich nose and complex. Earthy and plummy with bell pepper and savoury notes. Voluptuous mouthfeel with a muscular body and tight back bone. Long and round yet refreshing. Drinking wonderfully today but there is no hurry. 2020-2025. 1983 Chât Château Pétrus t 90p 2008/2020 Deep dark red colour. Roasted nose with tar, cigar box and leath The rich palate is juicy and leather. there is pleasant volumes of firming smooth tannin left. Long lasting fruity finish. The wine drinks well from now until 2020. 1985 Chât Château Pétrus t 91p 2008/2020 Deep ruby-brick colour. The sophisticated nose is medium p medium-pronounced and restrained: bell pron pepper, cassis and earthy notes. The palate is medium-bodied with refreshing acidity con- tributing to good drinkability. Stylishly lean, long and harmonious. Drink now - 2020. 1988 Chât Château Pétrus t 94p 2008/2015 Deep developing ruby red colour. Open roasted earthy nose with plums, cassis, cedar, paprika, minerals and spic spiciness with rubber notes. The palate is attractively silky and substantially voluminous. However, it lacks some back bone and freshness leaving a bit harsh finish. Drinks perfectly today and in the next 5 to 10 years. 1989 Chât Château Pétrus t 96p 2008/2018 Deep garnet colour. Soft, plummy dark fruit nose with black olives, truffles, violets and also medicinal tones. The firm palate has some re- straint and firm chewy tannins, lovely cassis and spicy vanilla flavours. Elegant and intensely fruity, ready to reach its peak in the next 5 to 10 years. Complex with an elegant refreshing acidity and long lasting finish. 1990 Chât Château Pétrus t 97p 2008/2030 Deep developing dark red colour. Rich and pronounced licorice nose with red berry freshness, dust and bell pepper. Fascinating spectrum of aromas and positive development in the glass. Rich wine on palate with firm ripe tannins, ripe cassis and plums with blueberries, elegant touch of oak with vanilla, licorice and chocolate flavours. Also the palate drinks perfectly today: fresh and firm with voluptuous fruitiness and a substantial finish. Benchmark Pétrus. Drink within the next 25 years. 131 T A S T I N G S Fi n e Ta s t i n g s 1971 Chât Château Pétrus t 95p 2008/now

an-Erik Paulson loves wine and can not think of any other subject that he would rather spend his life dealing with. He started his company "Paulson Rare Wine" in 1986. Paulson was very fortunate to early on meet influential and knowledgeable wine professionals and has in the last 20 years had the opportunity to take part in and organise a large number of important wine tastings. During a long career of drinking wine he has tasted most legendary and great wines and is considered one of the most experienced persons worldwide in this field and highly qualified in his profession. Paulson is a contributing editor of "European FINE Wine Magazine" and "Scandinavian FINE Wine Magazine" and the book "The 1.000 Finest Wines ever made". He is also an Honorary Commander of the Commanderie du Bontemps Médoc et Graves Sauternes et Barsac as well as a Cavaleiro da Confraria do Vinho do Porto. A new way of dealing in wine has been his Broking Service where he is offering wine from private collections at fair prices. All the wines being offered here are physically present in the cellars of Paulson Rare Wine and have all been examined by Mr. Paulson before being cleared for sale. 132 F I N E

We are happy to offer a special selection of wines exclusively to the readers of Fine Wine Magazine. 1880 Madeira Malmsey ................................................ 495 1953 Château Petit Village ........................................... 175 1959 Château Doisy Vedrines ...................................... 125 1964 Château Calon Ségur Magnum ......................... 197 1966 Château Haut Bailly ............................................ 125 1966 Château L'Eglise Clinet ...................................... 150 1970 Château Trotanoy ................................................ 295 1975 Château Cheval Blanc ......................................... 275 1982 Château Lynch Bages ......................................... 250 1989 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande ............. 169 Paulson Rare Wine at www.rare-wine.com · eMail: paulson@rare-wine.com · Tel.: +49 (0) 8581 - 910 145 133 W I N E S

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text: Pe rry Si ms, author of; "The Home Wine Cellar" photos: Joh n R ickard E ver dreamed of having a wine cellar in your home? As our fascination with wine continues to grow, home wine cellars are becoming increasingly popular among wine lovers the world over. Varying from simple utilitarian storage to elaborate beautiful rooms, we can entertain in as well as store our prized collection. Having your wine collection close at hand has many rewards and advantages. While providing for your personal enjoyment now, a custom wine cellar also adds value to your home for the future. Add to that the convenience of having quality, properly aged wine readily accessible at home. On a larger scale, a wine room in the home can also become a gathering place for friends and family alike. The ambiance in the wine cellar can add an exciting if not romantic element to our entertaining. Security and protection of ones valuable fluid investment is another important advantage. 135 C O L L E C T I N G Fi n e C o l l e c t i n g

How do we know which wines will profit from an extended stay in the cellar? While many wines today are made in a style that is meant to be consumed sooner than in previous vintages, most wines will improve with some age. Certainly some are better suited for aging than others. Most white wines, with the exception of some white Burgundies and Chablis, are best consumed within a few years of release, while most robust reds will benefit from one to as much as more than twenty years of proper storage to reach optimal maturity. During the aging process, the wine's unique compounds change and integrate, to form the characteristics, (taste, aromas, colors, texture etc.) of each individual wine. How do we know which wines will profit from an extended stay in the cellar? And how long should we age an individual wine? Probably the most consistent factor in determining the age worthiness of a particular wine is it's pedigree. A producer's track record for making wines to lie down is the easiest and often surest method. Another factor would be a particular vintage's character and concentration. Varietals and appellations-down to certain vineyards themselves ­ can also be factors. Another aid in identifying a wine's potential is to find a wine writer whose tastes are in line with those of your own, and take their advice to heart, at least until you feel comfortable with your advancing abilities and palate. In general, robust, deep ruby red colored, tannic, yet well balanced wines will perform best in the cellar. With time the budding wine enthusiast will not only be more confident with these decisions, but will discover within his or her own tastes how much age they prefer on their wine. the proper environment for the controlled aging process for our precious wines. You will be well rewarded in the long run with properly and gracefully aged wines consumed at their peak of maturity. There are many influences that threaten to harm our wines. Heat, temperature fluctuations, air contact, light and vibration are most often the main culprits of our valued wine's demise. Of these, the primary destructive force would be heat, or more often, temperature fluctuations. As virtually any chemical reaction is accelerated by the addition of heat, rapid maturation is going to follow. When not stored in a controlled environment, the temperature can spike up, and drop down again many times over the life of the wine, or even in a given day. Each of these "cycles" will aid in the ruin of our prized collectable. As the liquid heats it expands, pushing air out through the cork. As it cools again the receding liquid pulls fresh, oxygen laden air back into the bottle, therefore re-oxygenating the wine. Which brings us to the next abusive influence, air contact. When air comes in contact with wine, it will oxidize the alcohol and begin changing it to vinegar. Light can also help to destroy wine. Photochemical reactions will accelerate and otherwise alter the normal and desirable aging process. Lastly on our list of undesirables would be vibration. This too will cause a wine's maturation rate to increase, and distort the preferable chemical reactions of slow, graceful, proper aging. Now that we know what to look out for, how do we avoid these damaging interactions with our wines? We just need to build a cellar with; consistent, optimum temperature (typically between 55­60 Fo/13-16 Co), that does not have constant or excessive light, has little or no vibration and has ample humidity ( in the 55­75 percent range). Sounds easy right? Not so fast ! I wrote a complete book on this subject and could still not completely cover every possible scenario. I could not begin to cover all aspects of the actual construction in an article of this size. If you are one of the lucky few that already has a facility that meets all of How big is your collection? The scale and style of an individual's wine cellar may mirror the devotion to their wine collecting hobby. For some, a large lavish cellar to store and showcase their wine would be in order. For others, a more utilitarian cellar, with the primary emphasis on the proper environment for wine storage would suffice. One collector may want a capacity of thousands of bottles, while another would be content with a few hundred. Whatever direction your personal desires and needs take you, the common denominator is creating 136 F I N E

the above criteria, i.e.; (basement, cave etc.), you're all set! For the other 95 percent, you will most likely have to create a conditioned space to comply with the needs for a proper cellar. So just what does it take to create this specialized condition? While there are as many potential variables as there are individuals, there are some consistent requirements to achieve this objective. A few points to consider when choosing a site for your future cellar would be -Space requirements for your anticipated collection, be realistic here, collections can grow rapidly. Do you wish to have a room large enough to congregate in with a few, or many friends? -Convenience, having your wines within easy reach, from close proximity of the areas in your home you gather and entertain in, is a real plus. You might even want to showcase the cellar from these high profile areas via insulated glass doors and windows. -Minimum temperature variation. When practical, choose a location that will be easier to keep at a cool, constant, set temperature, to avoid excessive energy consumption and the likelihood of cooling system stress and malfunction. Obviously here, the basement, if you should have one, would be a better choice than an attic location. -Accessability for mechanical system. Be sure it is practical to get any necessary refrigeration equipment and required electrical service to the site. Racking system. Now that you have selected a site for your new wine room, there are many items that should be addressed during the construction or remodeling phase of the project. If the project is to remodel a cellar, you will likely have to remove all of the wall covering (drywall or the like), to access the framework for the vapor barrier, insulation, electrical needs etc. It is important that there be a vapor barrier installed on the "warm side" of the insulated cavity, or wall. 137 C O L L E C T I N G Fi n e C o l l e c t i n g

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There are many ways to achieve this, (plastic sheeting, foil backed rigid insulation, a foil-heat reflective barrier, spray foam, bubble-foil, even a vapor proof paint coating), the most important things to remember are that the barrier be as uninterrupted as possible, and that it is on the WARM side of the insulation. This is the time to make any framing modifications, and to rough in any refrigeration equipment, and electrical needs. Then the new wall covering can go on, and although the humidity in the room is not extremely high, it is wise to use a moisture resistant wall covering. Next use a high quality enamel paint, (only if there is a properly installed vapor barrier), and any decorative finishes to your tastes. For the flooring, generally some type of hard surface (tile, stone, concrete, brick etc.), works best. The most functional lighting is some sort of track light. With one, small penetration, we can have many adjustable heads for our task and accent lighting as well. Accent lighting is most easily accomplished with rope light. Although much more costly there is now an L.E.D. rope lighting that generates less heat. Pendant fixtures and wall sconces add a nice effect. All lighting, with the possible exception of the rope lighting, should be on a dimmer to adjust the amount of light, and consequently heat. The door should be insulated and weatherstripped on all four edges. If it is glass, it should be dual pane for insulation and to keep from "sweating." Any windows should be treated the same, and be at least dual pane, if not triple for very large expanses of glazing. Then there is the most visible, and very important part of the cellar equation, the racking system. There are countless styles, types, arrangements, designs, quality levels, price points and materials to choose from when it comes to racking options. Capacity, aesthetics, displays, counter tops, lighting, rack height etc. are design specific items. I personally prefer the majority of the racking system to consist of 139 C O L L E C T I N G Fi n e C o l l e c t i n g

the individual bottle variety. For most private home collections this type of rack makes the most sense. With the single bottle rack, if you have one bottle or a full case, the organization is simple. Also, this type of racking is the most earthquake resistant, if you live in an earthquake prone area. Bin style racks that hold a full case of loose bottles are another option. Adding a small percentage of this type is fine, but for most collectors, you would not want to use too many in your design. This style makes sense if all of your wine is in full cases (highly unlikely), if not, you will be forced to stack one type or vintage wine on top of other mixed selections in the same cubicle. Another drawback to the bin or case racks is where you use the Burgundy type of bottle, (i.e. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Champagne, Rhone, and many Syrah brands), as these bottles have a tapered shape, and can slide right out of the bin on their own. Racking that extends the full depth of the bottle is preferable so the necks of the bottles do not stick out past the racking. These are but a few suggestions for the racking design. There just would not be enough space here to cover all of the racking possibilities. system. Split evaporator systems, which have two parts, the evaporator in the cellar, and the condensing unit located remotely via refrigeration lines to the outside or another mechanical area. This is the system I will use most often. The main advantage of this type of unit is we can get the noise and heat out of the house, and there are no obtrusive elements outside the cellar to have to look at. Split refrigeration systems require a professional to install and service, and therefore will cost more than the simple self contained units, but are well worth it in most situations. Self contained, through the wall units are the least desirable and least expensive types of system. They vent through a wall common to an adjacent, conditioned (or within about 25 degrees temperature differential of your desired cellar temperature, or, T.D.) location, that must be of equal or greater size than the cellar you are cooling to dissipate the heat. Drawbacks to this type of system are they can be quite noisy, they are not aesthetically pleasing, and vent heat into the adjacent room. On the plus side, if your conditions allow for these negative aspects, these systems are easy to install, and have simple electrical requirements as well. So wether you are an investment minded collector, or someone who only occasionally lays down a few bottles, the benefits of proper storage are obvious. One becomes spoiled by drinking even moderate red wines with a little time in the cellar. It may be difficult to "swallow" the current release vintages after having a cellar and drinking your wines at their full potential. Wines with softened, silky, integrated tannins that won't bite your head off. Maturity and complexity that only comes with age. Let's pop open a 25-year-old Bordeaux, or a 15-year-old Cab and celebrate! Heart of your cellar. The cooling system you choose is the "heart" of your cellar. Today there are many choices to consider. It must match the size of your room, the cooling capacity required, the size of your collection and the installation requirements. Here is a bullet list showing the pros and cons of each type of system; Air handler systems, are the duckted units where all the machinery is located outside the cellar, therefore eliminating all the noise and visual distractions inside the home and cellar. The units can be split systems with the remote condenser located some distance away if desired. This is the top of the line system and the cost will be proportionately higher than a standard split 140 F I N E

Stand apart from the rest. An exclusive membership club for those seeking only the very best. www.WineSpring.com 141 C O L L E C T I N G

The world´s finest wine bar The FINE Wine Bar alone is reason enough to book a first class flight to Finland. It is the only place where you can taste the 1000 finest wines in the world by the glass. Welcome to the FINEr side of life. The first international FINE Wine Bar is open every day 06:00-20:00 at Helsinki-Vantaa International Airport. ® ® Price range by the glass is 4.60 to 80.00. Some trilling examples of mature wines from our 2008 winelist: Ferreira Vintage Port 1864 Château d´Yquem 1899 Château Filhot 1928 Château Mouton-Rothschild 1934 Château Calon Ségur 1945 Château Pichon-Baron 1947 Château Pétrus 1947 Château Cheval Blanc 1947 Château Gilette 1947 Marques de Riscal 1954 Quinta Do Noval 1958 Clos Vougeot 1959 Chambertin 1961 Château Latour 1961 Château Lafite-Rothschild 1962 Château Haut-Brion 1966 Dom Pérignon 1966 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 1970 Tignanello 1971 Dom Ruinart Rosé 1973 Château Pétrus 1975 Krug Vintage Champagne 1979 Château Latour 1982 DRC Richebourg 1983 Jaboulet-Vercherre Montrachet 1985 Château Palmer 1988 Château Valandraud 1989 Leroy Chassagne-Montrachet 1990 Sassicaia 1990 Château Le Pin 1990

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from rags to riches text: Juha L ihtonen Jean LEón through dreams and returns to his roots in Catalonia to produce celebrated wines from illegally imported vines. Respected wines are still produced under his name, a book has been written about him and a film starring Dennis Hopper, Paul Newman and Robert Wagner has been directed about him. How did Jean León find his way from rags to riches, and how did his dreams come true? It is a breathtaking story of a boy who had lived an insecure childhood, who runs away from home, travels unbeknownst to himself as a stowaway to the United States, finds himself fighting in the Korean War, entertains Hollywood film stars and presidents in Beverly Hills, T he life of Jean León is the wine world's most incredible success story. 144 F I N E

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Tragic childhood Jean León was born into a poor northern Spanish family in 1928. He was given the name Ceferino Carrión. Life showed its shadowy side to Ceferino and his eight siblings when the family lost all its possessions in the destructive fire in their home town of Santander in 1941. The family moved to Barcelona where the father and the older brother got work on a fishing boat. Only two months later Ceferino received shocking news ­ his father and brother's boat had been torpedoed, and all the crew members had died. Mired in poverty, Ceferino decided to pack his bags when he was 19 and leave his mother and seven siblings in Barcelona. With three friends he traveled to Paris, where he worked as a waiter and interpreter. After two years spent in Paris, the friends intended to continue their journey to Guatemala. In Le Havre, Ceferino was missing a document, which he was forced to retrieve from Paris in order to board the ship. Upon his return, the ship and his friends had left. After he had tried to get on seven ships, pretending to be a crew member, he finally hid as a stowaway in the cargo hold of one of them. Soon Cefarino was, unbeknownst to him, on his way to New York. Thanks to help from a crew member, he was able to enter the country without papers aided by the four English phrases he had learned. Citizenship from ARMY Hollywood's show business glamour greatly fascinated the young Spaniard. He believed that all is possible in the city of the stars, also for him. To fulfill his dream he needed to get United States citizenship. The Korean War offered a solution to the problem. Americans were drafting volunteer soldiers to join the army with a reward the citizenship. Two years after signing up he gained an American nationality. Along with the big change and going with the spirit of the times, he also decided to change his name along with his nationality. From 1953 onwards, he was known by the name Jean León. "Among them was a young promise James Dean, who became Jean León's best friend and business partner." Waiter to the stars After he returned from the war, Jean León began work in Hollywood's famous top restaurant Villa Capri. The restaurant's owners included Frank Sinatra and the legendary baseball star Joe DiMaggio. In Villa Capri, life flowed with the stars at a constant pace many nights a week. At the end of filming days, film crews along with actors gathered to dine and celebrate at Villa Capri. Jean León became acquainted with a great number of Villa Capri's celebrities. Many of them were of the same age as Jean León, young actors only in the beginning of their careers. Among them was a young promise James Dean, who became Jean León's best friend and business partner. On the top of the business world In New York, he found his way to the bar of his father's second cousin and took on work washing dishes. After only two months spent in New York, he was robbed. After losing all his personal papers, he began using the name Justo Ramón León. A week later, he found work at a club restaurant in Rockefeller Center. He picked up dirty plates for the salary of four dollars a day. Customers made the work interesting. Daily he met high-ranking politicians and celebrities, the most famous of whom was Bing Crosby. After working in Rockefeller Center for half a year, León left the job. The constant fear of authorities and hiding from them made him travel to Los Angeles. 147 J E A N L E Ó N Fi n e L e g e n d

La Scala Own restaurant James Dean and Jean León quickly became best friends. James Dean promised to be the godfather of Jean León's first born, and soon they were planning a restaurant together in Beverly Hills. While Jean León managed practical matters regarding finding the restaurant, James Dean financed the project. On Friday, September 30, 1955, tragedy stepped into Jean León's life again. He received a message about James Dean's accidental death. They were due to sign the contract of sale for the new restaurant on the following Monday. Jean León, however, decided to fulfill their mutual dream. He financed the founding of the restaurant through loan, and on April 1, 1956, La Scala opened its doors in Beverly Hills. ducers. Warren Beatty, for his part, would always enjoy his dinner in the kitchen while dining alone. Other famous customers include Zsa Zsa Gabor, Fred Astaire, Marlon Brando, Robert Wagner and Gary Cooper. Jean León, who had become a famous restaurateur, quickly became acquainted also with American presidents from Lyndon B. Johnson to Ronald Reagan. He witnessed Richard Nixon's election loss together with Nixon. He met John F. Kennedy every time Kennedy visited Los Angeles. He praised President Ford as the friendliest of all the presidents he had met, and with Ronald Reagan he shared a mutual passion for wine. According to Ronald Reagan's wishes, Jean León's wines were served at White House functions. Restaurateur to the presidents Through Jean León's actor contacts, the small restaurant became the meeting place for Hollywood society. Famous actors, directors, influential producers and politicians all dined at La Scala. Marilyn Monroe always arrived when the restaurant opened its doors at 5:30 p.m. and always sat in table number 14. Paul Newman, for his part, always arrived at around 7:30 p.m. The most difficult customer at La Scala was Humphrey Bogart, who after dinner would regularly end up brawling and loudly bashing Hollywood directors and pro- Marilyn's death Tragic events in Jean León's close circle repeated themselves in 1962. In the evening of August 4, he received a phone call from Marilyn Monroe. She said she was not feeling well and asked Jean to bring her food to her home in Brentwood. When he delivered the food to Marilyn, she was accompanied by a man whom Jean León told he recognized to be prominent figure. The next morning Marilyn was found dead in her home. Jean León remained silent on the matter to avoid trouble. He was too closely connected to people around whom rumors swirled. Jean León successfully continued the operations of La Scala, and in time it developed into an indisputable Hollywood classic, which was capitalized on in extremely popular bestseller books. 148 F I N E

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A fondness for wine After Jean León had reached the position of a respected restaurateur, he developed a new dream - his own wine. While searching for a vineyard around the world, he turned to the University of California, Davis, Professor Maynard Amerine, a viticulture specialist, and to Beaulieu's famous wine maker André Tchelistcheff for help. Consulted by them, he finally found a vineyard in Spain. In 1963, he bought 150 hectares (370 acres) of extremely calcareous loam soil on a slope gently descending southward in Catalonia's heartland. After this, he was faced with finding the best grapevines. He traveled together with his winemaker Jaume Rovira to the best regions in France. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines were brought from Château Lafite-Rothschild and Château Lagune in Bordeaux. The Chardonnay vines, for their part, were brought from the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard in Burgandy. In addition, Cabernet Franc vines were brought along. The borders of nationalist Spain governed by Franco were tightly guarded, and the men knew they placed themselves at great risk when smuggling French varieties into the country. At the border, he lied convincingly that he was transporting garden plants to his back yard. He planted the first French varieties in Catalonia in 1963. The next year, he built a modern winery equipped with the latest technology imitating Bordeaux château concepts. The philosophy of the wines was based on the wines of one vineyard. Cabernet Sauvignon was chosen as the flagship of the vineyard, and it was planted on the 8-hectare (20 acres) La Scala plot. It was produced only during the best years, of which the first vintage which was 1969. To raise the wines on a pedestal that they deserved, Jean León asked Catalonian artists to paint the labels. These collectors bottles have been produced only in the years 1979, 1994, 1996 and 1997. Since the beginning, Jean León's wines have been awarded numerous prizes. Jean León's Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 1983 was ranked by International Wine Magazine as one of the eight best wines in the world. His wines have become famous for their exceptionally long ageing potential. Jean León returned to the United States and continued to grow his restaurant business. In the beginning of the 1990s, life, however, once again showed its shadowy side to Jean León - now for the last time. His condition weakened, and the reason turned out to be a malignant tumor in his throat. The treatments were begun too late, and after two unsuccessful operations he was said to have only a few more years left to live. He gave up his restaurants and searched for a successor for his winery. The pioneer of Catalonia's wine production, Miguel Torres, bought the winery in 1994. The men made a gentlemen's deal that Torres would continue Jean León's production as an independent, separate from Torres' brand. Jaume Rovira, who had made wine for Jean León for over 30 years, continued his long career under Torres with Miguel Torres Jr. leading the winery forward. The last journey After giving up all material things, Jean León fulfilled his last dream. He bought a big sailing yacht, which he named La Scala a Mare, and spent his last living days sailing the world´s seas. Jean León lived an eventful life. Even though he gave up everything, he left a success story as a legacy for future generations. A story which makes us believe that everything is possible. www.jeanleon.com Check out: "3055 Jean Léon" documentary film, Bausan Films S.L.; 2006 Jean León 'El Rey de Beverly Hills' book; Sebastián Moreno; 2002 Restaurant La Scala, 434 N. Canon Dr, Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills 150 F I N E

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FROM THE SHADOWS OF THE GREATS text and photos: Pek k a Nuik k i SWEET FRUIT OF REVOLUTION VEGA SICILIA UNICO 1936 96 POINTS The bottle was in good condition, dusted by time. The colour of the wine was very dark, and the surface level was first-class. Decanted 30 minutes. Preserved its best qualities in the glass for about two hours. Undoubtedly the rarest and, in my opinion, one of the best Unicos of the 1930s. While the grapes of this noble wine were ripening under the burning sun, on the hills of the Duero river, the youngest general of Spain, Francisco Franco, was planning a bloody coup d'état, which would lead the country into a civil war. The last time I had a chance to taste this same vintage was in the Vega Sicilia vertical tasting in New York, in 2001. By that time, the long journey of this almost noble wine, which had matured in the middle of the destruction of Guernica, was already starting to show. The wine was quite brown, even for its age, although it was stately and clear, and its purple shimmer was still present. The scent was typical for Unico - open and wide, elegant and berried. It had a hint of eucalyptus in it, and it was promisingly intense and pure. Very well-balanced, fruity and elegantly peaceful wine. The taste was rich and delicate. The aftertaste was perhaps a bit plain and dryish. Michael Bettane, who had dinner with me, said that the wine was divinely delicate but had fire in its soul ­ how right he was. Dinner in Hattenheim MATURED FOR 200 YEARS CHÂTEAU LAFITE 1812 96 POINTS The 375ml bottle is in good condition. The colour of the wine and the surface level are excellent. Decanted 30 minutes. Lasted well in the glass about 45 minutes. This Lafite was probably almost black when it was born, since it was still very dark red. The aroma was intoxicating - savoury, pure and powerfully seductive. Intensive but velvet soft tannins and the quite high alcoholic content were still present in the wine, but now well-balanced with the rich, almost jam-like fruitiness. Very pleasurable, majestic and deeply multi-dimensional wine. Long, soft and palate-tickling aftertaste was detectable in the mouth for a long time. Sometimes it can take over fifty years for a wine to become enjoyable, and I am not surprised by the critique this powerfully tannic wine and vintage received in the 1850s. Lafite must have been a marvellous wine later on, at the beginning of the 20th century, because it is still one of the best wines I have encountered, almost 200 years old. The Vine Club Fine and Rare Tasting 152 F I N E

KRUG VINTAGE 1936 97 POINTS The bottle was in a poor condition, nearly label-less, and the vintage marking was completely worn off. The colour of the wine was very bright and the surface level excellent. Decanted 10 minutes. Preserved its best qualities in the glass for about 30 minutes. I once asked Rémi Krug for his evaluation of the vintage. Rémi assumed that it was the last vintage of Krug that was bottled before the war in 1936. There was an extraordinary "Reserve de Wehrmach" label on the bottle. Perhaps it was one of the wines with which the German troops had intended to celebrate their victory and dominion over the world. The mere fact that it was not Hitler's troops but us, a group of friends in our independent homeland, who got to taste the wine, would make it unforgettable, no matter what it was like. Fortunately, the quality of the wine met all expectations. The colour was beautifully golden and bright. The aroma was very intensive, fruity and elegantly perfume-like. Typical of Krug, the bubbles were small and were moving slowly in close groups; like small pearls rising to the surface of the wine, giving it grace. The aroma was so generous that, in the mouth, the wine felt a bit restrained at first. But after a short delay the taste developed very favourably and created a rich and highly-flavoured experience. A perfectly refined, multi-layered and sophisticated wine! Dinner at home with friends. CHÂTEAU MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD 1875 98 POINTS The bottle was in a good condition, and the label was beautiful. The colour of the wine and the surface level were first class. Decanted 60 minutes. Preserved its best qualities in the glass for about 60 minutes. The Mouton with a youthful colour smelled very promising and pure right after uncorking, and there was none of the mustiness or impurity that is typical for wines that have been in a bottle for a hundred years. Had I not known it, I would have imagined it was a 1945 vintage, so powerfully perfume-like, open and soulful was the scent. The wine tasted opulent, sincerely mature and well-balanced. Acidity and fruitiness were still present, but what was the most pleasurable in this wine were the soft tannins that had blended perfectly with the structure of the wine, caressing my palate for a long time. A perfect example of the durability of a top quality Bordeaux generated by the way its components enrich each other. With time, the wine got even better in the glass, and it was at its best about two hours after opening the bottle. An experience coloured by rich scents from the past, dark colours, ripe fruits and long history, unique in its own way. The Vine Club Fine and Rare Tasting. STAR FROM SEA BOT TOM HEIDSIECK GÔUT AMERICAIN 1907 98 POINTS The bottle was in good condition and smelled like mud and seafood. The colour of the wine was very bright and the surface level was excellent. Decanted five minutes. Preserved its best qualities in the glass for about 30 minutes. The champagne that had risen to fame from the bottom of the sea had invoked some powerful feelings when the bottle was uncorked. It had been sealed tightly with a thick mass that had melted around the cork, hard as stone. Scissors and knives had no effect on the seal. Only with a surgeon's knife did I manage to cut it deep enough and started to remove it piece by piece around the cork. To my dismay, once I had removed the first piece, some black, foul-smelling liquid began trickling from underneath it. I was certain that the contents of the bottle would be absolutely ruined, but when I opened the cork, it gave a loud pop and the fresh scent of champagne woke up my senses. The wine was in perfect condition. The impurities that had stuck to the bottle at the sea bottom had had not penetrated into it. The scent was fruity, pure and full. The brightness of the wine, its golden colour and numerous, youthful bubbles were sure signs of a spry oldie. Full, intense sweetness that caressed the palate gave firmness and body to the bubbles. Now, almost a hundred years later, the champagne offered a perfect experience, combining the sweet and tight structure of the mature Sauternes wines with the fresh acidity and style of champagne. A harmonic and unique experience. Definitely one of the best champagnes I have ever enjoyed. Together with friends in Helsinki BELGIAN ROMANÉE- CONTI DRC ROMANÉE-CONTI 1923 97 POINTS A rare DRC bottled by Van der Meulen in Belgium. In good condition. Decanted 30 minutes and preserved its best qualities in the glass for about 60 minutes. Belgian Van der Meulen was one of the most well-known and most reliable wine merchants in the early 20th century, and they bottled all their wines themselves. They were especially well-known for their habit of choosing only the best vintages from the most significant producers. They also tasted all the wines, barrel by barrel, and bought the best of them. The most well-known wines bottled by Van der Meulen are Cheval Blanc 1947, Pétrus 1947 and Yquem 1921. The colour of Van der Meulen's Romanée-Conti 1923 was very dark, and the surface level was first class. Decanted 45 minutes. Preserved its best qualities in the glass for about two hours. The colour of the wine was slightly brown and even cloudy. There was something so magical in the aroma that it would melt the most hardened heart: an aggressive chocolateness, coffeeness and warmth. Definitely one of the most intoxicating scents that I have ever experienced. Extremely thrilled, I barely had the courage to taste this wine. Very parched, delicate and gentle, slightly overripe wine. Still excellent, though it was at its best about 20 years ago. The aftertaste was steady and pleasurable. A sensual experience. Dinner at Bordeaux 153 F I N E W I N E S Fi n e Nu i k k i TROPHY OF THIRD REICH ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF CLASSLESSNESS

S ummer in Rome is stiflingly hot and the city's bustling streets are dusty. There are massive crowds everywhere. Hundreds of tourist groups, mainly from eastern countries, fill the narrow streets and alleys. I make my way slowly towards Via Barberini, the Mecca of men's fashion. I pass through a congested Piazza di Spagna which is overlooking a gigantic movie poster of the latest James Bond. Dressed in an immaculate tuxedo, Daniel Craig follows my movements expressionlessly.

THE SECRET OF JAMES BOND CHIC I reach Piazza Barberini. The groups of tourists are behind me now and the Only a couple of blocks more now. The streets are quieter, with a few drivers of luxury cars whiling away their time there. Their passengers have disappeared inside the Dior, Versace and Ferragamo boutiques to try on the haute couture clothing they have ordered. And then there it is: number 79 Via Barberini and the Brioni flagship store. I squeeze between a parked Maserati and the Rolls-Royce next to it and step inside the shop. dust settles on the street. The air is circulating and it is easier to breathe. I walk past the many luxury hotels and I sense the judgmental glances of the doormen behind my back. The shop windows are a dazzle of Cartier diamond jewellery and Chopard watches. A copy of the New York Times lies on a gilt-edged café table. On its cover a smiling Kofi Annan, wearing a dark Brioni suit, is giving a speech to the UN General Assembly. text: Pekka Nuikki photos: Pekka Nuikki and Brioni Fi n e L i f e

Inside there are five sales assistants standing in a perfect row. They all look enquiringly at me. Evidently my shabby appearance on the upmarket streets of Rome has no great effect, as nothing happens. Sizing me up their cold, piercing looks seem to be saying that I have come into the wrong shop. posh hotels now quietly greet me ­ well, it is either me or the paper bag with big, red Brioni logo dangling from my hand. "You don't have to spend millions to look like a millionaire ­ just wear something by Brioni." A visit to Brioni is part of every gentleman's trip I quickly get myself together and say I am looking for a new shirt to go with my Brioni tuxedo. Establishing myself as an old customer seems to have an effect, and there are now definite signs of cool courteousness and even friendliness. Hours later I pay for the three shirts I have chosen and, with some relief, exit into the street, clutching a stylish white paper bag bearing the Brioni logo. Retracing my steps through the streets the formerly unsmiling doormen outside the to Rome. At the very least it is something to remember. This year Brioni has been chosen as the most acclaimed of all the luxury male fashion brands. Its ageless cut and superb materials have in their time earned the trust of the likes of Clarke Gable, Henry Fonda, Gary Cooper, John Wayne, Richard Gere, and actresses including Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor and Anna Magnani. That style guru of the world of film, James Bond, also wears Brioni. 158 F I N E

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A LONG WAY FROM SAVILE ROW 1945. Its founders, Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savivi, named their tailor's shop after a Croatian island. Before the Second World War, the island of Brijuni (pronounced Brioni) was a retreat for wealthy Europeans, where they might play golf or polo or indulge in other such 'extravagant' pursuits. The name was chosen for two reasons. Firstly, the word Brioni was already linked to the sort of luxury and extravagance associated with European aristocrats. The other reason was that it sounded anything but British. ishly, but subtly and elegantly. The job of Italian clothing is to show off and emphasise the wearer's unique qualities and individual personality. MEN'S HAUTE COUTURE Brioni fast gained a reputation in its country for being a skilled and innovative clothes store. In 1952 Brioni brought men to the catwalk in Florence as the first men's outfitters to stand alongside women's haute couture. The result was swift international success. In 1954 the firm held a fashion show in New York and in eight American cit- Then, and to some extent now, the yardstick for men's clothing was Savile Row in London, where many of the world-famous names in tailoring are to be found: Poole & Co., Anderson & Sheppard, J. Dege & Sons, H. Huntsman, Gieves & Hawks, and Chester Barrie. ies, the last of which, Hollywood, made Brioni its own look. In the film world, it was vital to stand out and the Brioni style suited this purpose perfectly. Towards the end of the 1950s Brioni merchandise, the choice of film stars, were on sale in more than 30 stores in America. Immediately it had established itself, Brioni wanted to get away from the traditional British style of Savile Row and create a new, continental alternative. In fact these days it is regarded as just as classic in style as its British rival version. For the British it is important to dress correctly and without flamboyance. The Englishman wants to blend in with the greater whole and is reluctant to express his own individuality. On the other hand, an Italian The huge growth in demand in the USA forced Brioni to review its production methods and the company found a manufacturing plant at the start of the 1960s in Nazareno Fonticoli's birthplace of Penne. There Brioni semi-automised its production. Actually, it was not a case of industrial production at all as almost all the manufacturing work was still done by hand. Today the fastest time in which a made-to-measure suit can be produced at Penne is 18 hours. At Barberini it still takes about 40 hours. Each stage of the work is the responsibility of a separate master craftsman, whilst at Via Barberini just one tailor is responsible for making a suit from start to finish. Brioni trains its own tailors itself. By the Seventies Brioni began to have difficulties in hiring qualified tailors. Therefore, as the firm grew, so there was a drop in the quantity of trained workers available and the lack of new tailors jeopardized the survival of the firm. Tailoring schools in Italy are not very flexible and often do not provide courses which are relevant to the changes in the industry. Brioni therefore virtually obliged to set up its own private training school. The human factor, which had always been central to its production ethos, was introduced yet again. In a training school in Penne, trainees study under the supervision of the old masters for four years before they are allowed to make clothes for customers on their own. Even the person who just sews the buttonholes on a cuff has to train for two years. 161 B R I O N I Fi n e L i f e Brioni has been an icon of men's fashion since man wants to stand out from the crowd, not gar-

1. Brioni US$ 6 000 (average price) 2. Kiton US$ 5 800 3. Canali US$ 4 200 4. Bottega Veneta US$ 3 800 5. Giorgio Armani US$ 3 595 6. Ralph Lauren US$ 3 295 7. Oxxford US$ 3 000 8. Jay Kos US$ 2 800 9. Issey Miyake US$ 2 800 10. Ermenegildo Zegna US$ 1 900 until it finds its place in history. These are actions, professions, ancient rituals that stand the test of time. They take strength from an expressivity approaching art. The workmanship is inimitable: at least 22 hours, 220 steps including 60 just for ironing, and 5 000 stitches placed by hand for every single jacket. Constant fabIn Penne they mostly make halfway house versions of made-to-measure, ric research in the form of about 50 studies for quality and design have allowed the Brioni Style Department to select from over 50 000 variations, including the 600 making up the collection. Today, "Made in Brioni" is the work of 400 master tailors and around 1 500 employees, working in eight workshops for Formalwear, Women's, and Leisurewear. Every new season Brioni's 400 tailors create around 200 new designs for 25 000 of their elite customers to choose from. which should not be confused with genuine bespoke tailoring. Brioni's former co-CEO Umberto Angeloni reminds us of this: -An authentic made-to-measure suit is made by hand from scratch according to the customer's measurements and wishes. The materials and smaller details are chosen by the customer. This is what we still do in Milan and Rome. Today everyone says they make genuine made-to-measure suits, but what they really mean is they make existing suits which are simply designed and cut to fit the customer. A Brioni suit is never cheap. Prices for an off-the-peg suit start at 3 000 euros and made-to-measures are anything between 6 000 and 25 000 euros, depending on the materials. Tuxedos cost from 6 000 euros and shirts from 150 euros upwards. In a recent report by Forbes, Brioni came out as the priciest manufacturer of men's made-to-measure suits. A PERFECT SUIT FOR AN IMPERFECT BODY Around 500 genuine hand-made made-to-measure suits are produced in Via Barberini a year. For each customer a design is created which matches his own individual measurements and wishes as well as his body shape and personality. Often when a customer who is used to putting up with the restrictions of ready-to-wear clothes visits Brioni, he feels for the first time in his life that he does not have to apologise for having an imperfect body. Even if his shoulders are too narrow and his backside is too wide, the suit will fit perfectly, giving the impression of a more ideal body shape. Brioni has pushed sartorial technique to the limits, working each fabric, leather or yarn with masterful skill, and turning out the boldest finishes that the human hand has ever confronted. To maintain this wealth of tradition unflinchingly requires a nearly religious repetition of gestures, a liturgy that lasts for generation after generation Brioni does not follow the latest superficial fashions and never rushes, as in our hectic world an unhurried pace also suggests luxury. Brioni's identity is perhaps best described by one of their master tailors, Signor Savarese: "For more than 50 years Brioni has been bringing a sense of Roman style and elegance to the most demanding clients. Many of the world's most prominent heads of state and businessmen choose Brioni for their own version of a 'power suit', showing their particular sense of style and individuality to the world." POWER SUIT Timeless chic is one of Brioni's secrets of success. Its look is ageless and it continues to make an irreplaceable and reliable contribution to a gentleman's wardrobe from one year to the next. The classic style and Brioni's own brand of service ensure that their suits and tuxedos are made to last. A Brioni should not be taken to the dry cleaner's ­ it should be sent to Rome. There it will be cleaned and pressed with the same degree of care as when it was being made. A few weeks later the suit comes back to its owner as good as new. Any possible alterations can also be attended to at the same time. 162 F I N E

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