Volume 4 Issue 4 Q4 2025 R 90 Dominican Rum Spirit with Memory Golgappas A Liquid Revelation Khasi Favourites Meghalaya Heritage

contents what’s inside Tradition Khasi’s Favourites Column Ruchira’s Pour 4 Liquid 12 Bar 26 Wine The Alchemy of Highballs In Defence of Wine 16 Rum 28 Bordeaux Dominican Rum 1855 Classification 22 32

contents New Delhi • Panaji Exhibition Vinitaly Roadshow India News Bar Goa’s Heritage 36 Tasting 56 Wellness Penfolds The Plant Protein Boom 40 Launch 58 India Cincoro Tequila Golgappas 42 Event Viva La Vino 44 Event Nebbiolo Prima 2025 48 Event A Preview of Seoul 50 Event Indian Single Malts 52 62 66 Liquid 5

advertisers Volume 4 Issue 4 Q4 2025 R 90 Dominican Rum Spirit with Memory Golgappas A Liquid Revelation Khasi Favourites Meghalaya Heritage 2-3 Lodhi - 2 Portrait Liquid 05 March 2026 16:27:40

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publisher’s Volume 4 Issue 4 Q4 2025 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Consulting Editor: Navni Kumar Design: Sandeep Kaul Cover: D-Cloud Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Press Registrar General of India (PRGI) Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the note W e are living in uncertain times. Conflicts are flaring up. Political leaders are being whimsical. Pillars of democracy are being tested. Markets are volatile, with bullion at an all-time high! India’s sustained growth story stands out as a contradiction to global trends. And better still, ‘protectionist’ India has chosen to ease trade barriers and blur borders with countries around the world. Tariffs, Quotas and Free Trade Agreements are not just buzz words – they are driving Heads of State to seek appointments with Seva Teerth. The most tangible benefit of these high-level bilaterals is the conclusion of long standing negotiations on free trade agreements with major trading partner countries. A new political will has dictated the pace of these agreements. India – United Kingdom is on course to ratification by the British Parliament. India – New Zealand was wrapped up within nine months. India – European Union was finally concluded after almost two decades of endless rounds of discussion. No sector, except some sensitive ones, can expect to retain protection. More concessions have been granted to alcoholic beverages, that fall under the watch of Liquid. The duty reduction on Australian wine a few years ago has paved easier access for Scotch whisky, English gin and wines from New Zealand and the European Union. The market has space for everyone. Local producers can expect knowledge sharing, technical exchanges and best practices to be globally competitive. The consumer will benefit from better access to world-class products. International brands can expect to establish a toehold in a high potential market. print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements. Liquid 7

contributors Rajiv Singhal studied Economics at Yale and consults on market access to India. Since 1997, he created the foundation for wine and wine culture in India. Decorated with civilian honours from France and Luxembourg, he is a proud owner of Champagne vineyards. Ritu Singhal trained as a textile designer at Sophia Bombay and cofounded Group Ritu in 1993. She pioneered luxury tableware import in India since 1996 and publishes India’s first officially recognised wine magazine since 2010. She volunteers to empower women artisans. Navni Kumar is a writer and editor who splits her time between stories, workouts, and beachside escapes. She has a passion for baking and is a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail. Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born lifestyle and luxury writer and cofounder of Elevenses, a hospitality consultancy. His work explores the intersections of travel, design and culinary culture, reflecting a nonchalant mind and a taste for the exploratory moods of life. Nandita Kaushik is a creative writer, content writer, blogger and poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Her books ‘Rediscover your Midlife Mojo’ and ‘Lifelines - Book of Little Truths’ are available pan India. Uday Varma retired as Secretary to Government of India after over forty years of distinguished public service. An alumnus of Banaras Hindu University and the Kennedy School of Government at Harvard University, he shares his experiences on his blog. Saket Joshi is cellar master and vineyard manager at a renowned SaintÉmilion Grand Cru estate. He draws on his extensive experience in viticulture and winemaking in Sonoma, Oregon and Central Otago and is passionate about nurturing vineyards and crafting exceptional wines. Ruchira Neotia DipWSET is Founder of Ruchira’s Table and the only Indian in UK’s Top 100 Most Influential Figures in the Drinks Industry (2025). She is a dynamic drinks consultant, judge and writer shaping global wine and spirits scene’s future. Devati Mallick is a Certified Sommelier and Founder of DWD Wine Solutions, a wine consulting and experiences platform. She curates tastings and community-driven consumer experiences that make wine more accessible and engaging Mohona Chowdhury is a wine consultant, educator and writer based in Burgundy. She was a sommelier at a Michelin-star restaurant in Paris and is a French Wine Scholar and WSET Level 3 certified. Liquid 9

tradition Photo: dofpmeghalaya.org Khasi’s Favourites Meghalaya Heritage T he Khasi are the largest indigenous tribe of Meghalaya, known for their distinctive matrilineal society, where lineage and inheritance pass through the female line – the youngest daughter assumes stewardship of the household. It seemed only fitting, then, that my chance encounter with beverages from the Khasi community in Shillong the Shillong Literary Festival to join celebrated renowned authors but also emerging talent from India and abroad. Amid the intellectual buzz of this literary extravaganza framed by cherry blossoms in full bloom, what caught my attention was the drinks counter serving Khasi rice beer and locally crafted fruit wines. would be guided by young women leading their family Stealing a few moments from the young women enterprises with amazing confidence. I was invited to entrepreneurs who were busy presenting traditional 12 Liquid

tradition Ka’iad um -- literally ‘alcoholic water’ -is integral to ritual dances, prayers and community gatherings of the Khasi Niam Tynrai faith. It is not just a drink. It is ceremony. crafted beverages, I tried to get a better understanding of the products, their heritage and their decision to take their family traditions crafts to market. KHASI RICE BEER: RITUAL & CRAFT At one stall, young Basilica Khashriyan was proudly presenting her family’s rice beer. As I engaged her in conversation, she revealed that red rice was preferred over white as the key ingredient. She told me that production of the home brew remained the domain of the elder members of the family, while she and her siblings had taken on the market facing roles. Further insights came from an elderly ‘uncle’ who described the traditional method of making Khasi rice beer which is called ‘bitchi’ in the Garo Hills. He explained that the process is multi-pronged and nuanced. Aromatic red varieties of rice are boiled until soft. The cooked rice is spread out to cool on bamboo mats or banana leaves. The powdered yeast starter cake made from rice flour blended with local herbs and leaves, known as Thap or Kshai, is mixed thoroughly into the rice. For the fermentation, this mixture is put in earthen pots or other containers, covered often with banana leaves, and left in a warm, dark space for several days to weeks, depending on desired potency. Once fermentation is complete, water may be added, and the liquid is strained through bamboo sieves or muslin cloth. The result is rice beer. My uninitiated palate found Khasi rice beer a very strong and powerful – something that can certainly not be ignored. It was definitely more tangy and less sweet, and Liquid 13

tradition of Winemakers, boosted fruit wine making in the region. Recent initiatives led by Chief Minister Sangma have allowed increased recognition and positioning as Meghalaya’s cultural heritage. At the festival, bottles neatly displaying the various flavours of wine were presented by Biolinda Marbaning, a young lady who was passionate and began experimenting with winemaking in 2016 under the guidance of her uncle. This was early enough that she could claim the brand ‘Khasi Wines’. Once her passion and love translated into a few batches of wine, friends and family encouraged her to evolve it into a business. The turning point came during the Cherry Blossom festival in 2017 when her brand received an overwhelming response that propelled Khasi Wines into most districts of Meghalaya. Focusing mostly on local fruits that she believes make her wine distinct from other fruit wines, she helps farmers who were losing most of their perishable harvests in the long transit to market. Ka’iad um had the potential for an instant high! An acquired taste, perhaps. Locally, rice beer is called ‘ka’iad um’, which literally means alcoholic water. It is integral to religious ceremonies and festivals and is deeply woven into the ritual dances, prayers, community gatherings and ceremonies of the local Khasi Niam Tynrai faith. KHASI WINES: VALORISING FRUITS I learnt that fruit wine production in Meghalaya dates back to 1947 when Captain Harold Douglas Hunt established a winery in Mawphlang. The Shillong Wine Festivals, initiated in 2004 by the Meghalaya Association Youth. Passion. Pride. And the strength of a matriarchal society. Khasi drinks have moved from festival curiosity to recognised craft category within India’s evolving alcohol landscape. Bitchi 14 Liquid

tradition More than 18 different wines have been introduced. They are named after the local fruits – Sohlang, Soyong, Sohphie, Sophinam – and ingredients – Pineapple, Peach, Mulberry, Ginger Honey, Ginger Lemon… Sohlang stands out as a popular variety – its sweetness draws immediate attention. The fruit itself is small, deep red, and intriguingly is used by locals as bait for catching fish! THE COMMON THREAD Coming back to Basilica and Biolinda, the connect between these women entrepreneurs became clear: Youth. Passion. Pride. And the strength of a matriarchal society. Khasi drinks have been inherited, protected and reimagined so that they can be presented beyond the state borders by the daughters of the soil. These indigenous drinks have moved from festival curiosity to recognised craft category within India’s evolving alcohol landscape. L Biolinda Marbaning Photo: culturetravel.in Nandita Kaushik is a writer and poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Her books ‘Rediscover your Midlife Mojo’ and ‘Lifelines - Book of Little Truths’ are available pan India. Liquid 15

bar The Alchemy of Highballs T here is something deeply ritualistic within Indian drinking culture when it comes to highballs – the There is a chemical shift that occurs when water is entire foundation rests on the simple whisky-and-soda it so much as open it up, releasing aromatics that conundrum. I uncover what really goes on behind its otherwise remain tightly bound. It’s the ultimate enduring appeal. combination when attuned to the right choice of 16 Liquid added to whisky; this act of dilution doesn’t weaken

bar mixer. The glass clinks with ice, often filled to the brim; a measure of warm, golden spirit is poured, and the drink is finally lifted by the effervescence of soda. I default to whisky because it remains the most familiar and comforting anchor, but the highball is far from monogamous. Gin, Tequila, rum, vodka – even fortified wines – form equally compelling foundations. What matters isn’t complexity, but balance. Highballs, emerged in the late 19th century, traced to Britain and the United States, where spirits were lengthened with soda for refreshment and Photo: the whiskyexchange.com The modern highball isn’t casual, and it isn’t complex. It’s designed to refresh, reset, and play its part of a long, languorous sip. Umami Highball approachability. Japan, however, elevated the form into ritual – post-war bars treated the highball as a craft, obsessing over ice clarity, glass temperature, dilution ratios and carbonation. They didn’t invent it, but they perfected it – and continue to do so. That philosophy is finding renewed expression at Idoru, a Japanese bar in Mumbai, where the highball is approached technically. Here, dilution is dictated by hard, dense ice chilled to just before cracking, carbonation is introduced, and even the space left at the top of the glass is deliberate – an aroma chamber designed to let flavour cut through in a music-first room. As their beverage consultant Koki Ito-san puts it, “A standard highball isn’t simply whisky and soda – it’s a complete cocktail. By controlling the technicalities, we allow the whisky’s aromatics to express themselves clearly.” Ironically, whisky itself has long been viewed as a spirit resistant to cocktails, too precious or too personal to Liquid 17

bar tamper with, for the most part, there are, but a handful. Yet the highball has always existed as its counterpoint, a respectful compromise and a veritable way to stretch the spirit without obscuring it – and make it highly repeatable. Rum and coke is a masterclass in balance, where caramelised sugar, spice, bitterness, and acidity align effortlessly. BEYOND WHISKY AND SODA World over, this combination of whisky and soda is sacrosanct to an individual’s taste, but it’s also the easiest pour. Grain and water go beautifully together, somehow soda doesn’t conceal flaws, it exposes them. and carbonation has long been treated as a way Their approach begins before bubbles ever enter the to soften and make it refreshing. But that ease is glass, building structure through wine, fortified wine, or precisely what has kept the highball boxed into a tea-based components that bring acidity, dryness and narrow definition. grip. The addition of these elements dictate a balance At Bar Sama, Bengaluru, shaped in collaboration of simplistic ritual and eventually, carbonation is with Singapore’s Cat Bite Club, the team pushes added in. Their cocktail – Eve’s Afternoon – conceived back against the idea of the highball as a shortcut. not as a traditional highball but as an aperitif, borrows In climates that punish excess – sweetness cloying, the format: vermouth softened with apple infusion, citrus acidity and the heaty lingering of alcohol, fortified wine for tension, sparkling wine for finesse. Eve’s Afternoon 18 Liquid Thai & Japanese highballs

bar philosophy of highballs designed to sit comfortably alongside food is where Japanese structure begins to intersect naturally with restaurant-led bars, and where flavour, rather than form, starts to take the lead. That idea finds a natural extension at Chaiyo, the new bar expression in Seefah Mumbai. Theirs is the perfect platform to explore an amalgamation of flavours given that Thai and Japanese come together conceptually. Chef-partner Karan Bane speaks of the highball as an exercise in control – a meeting point between two cultures that value balance in different ways. Just like their cooking, the drinks are layered: the first sip feels almost weightless, the next reveals depth, think the warmth of ginger, citrus oil, a flicker of umami, a floral note that lingers. Ginger-led and kombucha-driven highballs rely on temperature, fizz and acid for refreshment, while character comes from ingredients both Thai kitchens and Japanese bars understand with ease. That same food-first logic plays out at Kasper’s, Similarly, there are such incredible combinations which bring almost every nuanced flavour profile and spirit to come together – rum and coke is a masterclass in balance, where caramelised sugar, spice, bitterness and acidity align effortlessly. Gin and tonic follows a similar logic, bitterness vis-a-vis botanicals, while Photo: Michael Odelberth/unsplash.com where the highball is designed to complement the rich Floral highball Tequila and grapefruit is delicious through salinity and citrus. Even vodka and soda, often dismissed for its neutrality, works when mineral water, temperature and garnish are considered with care. These pairings are classics, and within good reason – that of being structurally sound. WHEN HIGHBALLS START THINKING LIKE FOOD Koki Ito-san approaches the highball as a flavour system that are structured around go-mi – the five traditional Japanese tastes – with spice introduced as a sixth. It’s a way of thinking that reframes the highball as something deliberately food-aware. He points out that the original purpose of drinks like lemon sour was palate cleansing and meal compatibility. That Liquid 19

bar cooking of Chef Will Aghajanian, whose creativity in the kitchen relies on rich sauces, savoury forward foods. “The highball should act like a palate-cleanser,” says Durgesh Singh of Food Matters Group. Base spirits are chosen to mirror the cuisine – light vodka and Lillet Blanc for floral profiles, or Campari, beer, strawberry and soft orange for fruit-forward dishes – with just one or two mixers to amplify the entire beverage. Scale that thinking up, and India’s luxury hotels – incubators for new drinking rituals – come into focus. At Fairmont Udaipur Palace, Dahaad – an immersive Grain and water go beautifully together, and carbonation has long been treated as a way to soften, and to make it refreshing. cocktail sanctuary within its walls, highballs are shaped by its arid climate and the languid pace of luxury. “A destination resort highball must cool, refresh and invite a second sip,” says beverage manager Ritesh Ray. Working with Rajasthani flavours like imli, ker and frangipani, the rule is to let one local ingredient lead. Introduced through clean infusions or distillates, these flavours enhance rather than dominate, preserving clarity and effervescence. Across bars and palaces, the message is consistent. The modern highball isn’t casual, and it isn’t complex. It’s designed to refresh, reset, and play its part of a long, languorous sip. L Imli highball 20 Liquid Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai born, food and beverage writer and consultant (Nonchalant Gourmand) who strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life.

rum T here are drinks which are inherited through generations – their flavours carried through spirit’s earliest whispers lie farther back in time – in centuries, weathered by wind, sea, sugar and their and China. These early cane spirits were primitive story. In the Dominican Republic, rum is not merely and sharp, nothing like the refined rums that have a spirit; it is the distilled memory of the Caribbean; it been lauded and embraced around the world. It’s the quietly underpins the rhythm of life – from the amber Caribbean that eventually gave rum its true identity – glow in a crystal glass to the warm sweetness rising and its soul. from aging barrels tucked away in quiet bodegas. the ancient sugarcane-fermenting traditions of India In the 15th century, European explorers brought Rum’s connection with this region is so deep that sugarcane to the Americas. Christopher Columbus it is often believed to have been born here. Yet the himself is believed to have carried it to Hispaniola. Dominican Rum 22 Liquid AI images: Sandeep Kaul Spirit with Memory

rum By 1630, British settlers in Barbados were already fermenting molasses, and by 1651 the traveller Richard Ligon referred to an intoxicating drink known as ‘rumbullion’, a term meaning tumult. The Barceló was founded in Santo Domingo by Majorcanborn Julián Barceló in 1929. What began as a family venture grew into one of the Dominican Republic’s most celebrated rum companies which established British shortened it to rum, the French to rhum, and the Spanish – including Dominicans – to ron. In a few decades, the Caribbean had embraced rum completely, transforming a colonial offering into an emblem of the islands – fiery, inventive and resilient. In the Dominican Republic, rum is a national emblem, a cultural inheritance and one of the country’s most globally recognized exports. Three great houses – Brugal, Barceló and Bermúdez – legends in a bottle – represent the backbone of the rum tradition in the country. Their histories are chapters in the story of how rum helped shape the Caribbean identity. Rum is not about intoxication; it is about continuity. It binds stories, milestones, and generations — an amber thread running through Dominican life. Liquid 23

rum There are drinks you sip, and there are drinks you inherit — flavours carried through centuries, weathered by wind, sea, sugar and story. secrets, techniques handed down through families for generations. Rum here is a craft shaped as much by intuition as by science. Rum is culture, companion and social glue. Punta Cana, on the east coast of the country, is a very popular and famous tourist destination. Here, rum is woven into daily life – it binds stories, milestones many export markets. The Barceló family also founded philanthropic institutions, weaving social responsibility into the brand’s legacy. and generations – an amber thread running through Dominican life. Fishermen gather around it after long days at sea; musicians sip it between melodies at beach bars; and families reserve cherished bottles for Brugal, established in 1880 by Andrés Brugal Montaner weddings, baptisms and holidays. Rum is not about after his move from Santiago de Cuba to Puerto Plata, intoxication; it is about continuity. remains a proud family-run enterprise. Brugal’s range – crisp whites, golden blends, deep-aged reserves – reflects five generations of refinement. The Brugal Foundation continues the family’s commitment to community welfare. Bermúdez, often regarded as the oldest rum house in the Americas, traces its lineage symbolically to Don Diego Bermúdez, a companion of Columbus. Today, Bermúdez produces an impressive portfolio of spirits, but its rums remain unmistakably Dominican – smooth, soulful and storied. The art and alchemy of making rum begins with molasses – that dark, viscous syrup left after sugar crystals are extracted from cane juice. Fermented, distilled and rested in wooden barrels – usually American white oak once used for Bourbon – and a transformation begins. Over years, the rum absorbs aromas of vanilla, caramel, dried fruit, cocoa and gently toasted wood. What elevates Dominican rum is not machinery but mastery. Every distillery carries its own blending 24 Liquid Punta Cana has transformed rum appreciation into an experience. Tasting tours have been created for

rum their own personal blend – a bottled memory of the visit. Everywhere, the message is the same: rum is not just to be tasted; it is to be understood. One evening at my resort, the very friendly bartender placed before me a glass filled with a deep mahogany liquid. “Sip, don’t gulp – and take in the story,” he advised. It tasted like nothing I had had before – warm, those who are keen to learn and at the same time, a bit adventurous. The Ron Barceló Historical Centre offers immersive tours through ageing cellars and historical archives, with samplings of rums at various stages of maturity. The Oliver Rum Experience, home to Opthimus and Presidente Martí, pairs rum with fine Dominican cigars, dark chocolate, artisanal cheeses and tropical fruits. On some tours visitors are even led through sugarcane fields; others invite enthusiasts to create layered, confident, with hints of vanilla and orange peel. What I realised is that rum encourages lingering conversations, the sort that stretch into twilight and match the unhurried rhythm of Caribbean evenings. What struck me most about rum in Punta Cana is how fully it reflects the character of the place – a glass full of Punta Cana. It has the friendliness of its people, the golden warmth of its sun and the slow, unhurried grace of its sea. It is, in many ways, the distilled landscape of the Dominican Republic. To understand Punta Cana is to understand its rum. And once you do, the place feels even more alive – warm, amber-hued and quietly magnificent. L Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as Secretary to Government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog. Liquid 25

column Ruchira’s Pour Salinity, Spice & Santorini W elcome to Ruchira’s Pour, where flavour meets flair. Born and raised in India and a bona fide Londoner, I’m here to share some of my memorable moments secret finds. We South Asians love flavours. Nothing riles me more than sommeliers choosing between 50 shades of Riesling to pair with anything Asian. As such, I look for any opportunity to prove a point that there are many wines that pair well with the complex flavours of the East. You need only look beyond the stereotyped pairing rules and focus on synergies of colour, texture, structure (of the wines that is). I have long held the view that Greek Island wines have the structural complexity to successfully link arms with Asian food – their inherent salinity as a pairing partner for the umami flavours – fish, soy, oyster sauce and the like. I teamed up with the Vietnamese supperclub in London – An Ði – to test what happens when you bring eastern and western winds together. The Greeks have a 5,000 year-old winemaking history, and 300 indigenous grape varieties to boot. I focussed on the windy Aegean for the wine choices – island wines have a mineral and acid advantage that is a foundational necessity for the pairings I was looking for. Let me break down the course-by-course magic trick. Course one: Bánh cuốn – steamed rice cake with minced pork, shiitake mushroom, runny egg yolk with a fish sauce, lime and garlic oil dressing. YUM! I paired with a 2024 Vassaltis Assyrtiko for its lip-smacking (khatta) salted lemon peel tang. It just sliced through the carb and protein morsel. The current owner Yannis gave up a successful career to restore the vineyards left to him by his late father. I mean, he swapped wet, grey, cold London for Santorini! 80-year-old ungrafted vines shaped into living kouloura baskets to protect from high winds and retain moisture on the Santorini caldera. Sounds like the plot of Russel Crowe’s ‘A Good Year’? Yes, but instead of Marion Cotillard, he had help from local oenologists to revive the property and build a state-of-the-art winery. The second course was a pièce de résistance for pairing. Papaya salad with beef jerky, fragrant lemon balm garlic and crunchy shallots & peanuts. I went with a dual pairing of Seiradi PFC’s 2023 Mousseux Rosé and 2024 Mandilaria. From Paros – the gorgeous Cyclades island with a very rugged landscape but is not as volcanic as Santorini. Think rolling hills, ancient marble quarries and breezy coastlines dotted with the unique Aplotaria ground crawling vine system (because of winds). Both wines possessed intense fruit character balanced by citrus laced mineral structure. The lightly chilled red Mandillaria surprised as a contradiction to 26 Liquid

column – famous for nebbiolo-style wines from indigenous xinomavro grapes; as age-worthy as top Barolo. A spectacular wine – macerated Moroccan roses, beguiling violets, ripe wild strawberries and heady spices like liquorice, cinnamon, vanilla with a cedar and dried fig finish. Truly extraordinary and a real match for the tangy and fiery sweet-sour sauce. I don’t believe in strict wine adherence and instead looked to the unique Chios Roots Mastic digestif for the sweet finale of home-made coconut pineapple ice-cream with caramelised sauce and pineapple chunks. Aptly named ‘Tears of Chios’ given its manner of harvest, it is made from the resin from the mastic tree on Chios Island. Hippocrates himself swore by it: a breath freshener, digestif and an antiseptic all rolled in one. Served chilled, on the rocks, to bring out its coconutty creaminess and herbal freshness – a great balancing act with the multi-textured ice-cream. So, that was my pour. If you like your food salty or seriously umami – Island wines are what you want to show off with. Tag @ruchneo on your pairing typical salad pairings with whites. Curious wines for experiments! Until the next pour! L curious minds… Ruchira Neotia DipWSET, founder of Ruchira’s Table, is a London based drinks consultant, writer and in UK’s Top 100 Drinks Influencers. The third course was a Chả Lá lôt – minced pork wrapped in betel leaf drizzled with a creamy yoghurt mayo and parmesan truffle sauce. I needed a dramatic, bold wine for this and the 2022 Vassaltis Alcyone Cuvée Mythologique was perfect! Named after Alcyone, daughter of the Greek God of wind, who turned into a bird to calm the seas. 100% old vine Assyrtiko is partially fermented in oak before long lees ageing. A Burgundian-style white – floral with tropical peach and zesty orange, Greek yoghurt creaminess and a sprinkle of white pepper. That is exactly the sort of taming action needed for this course. For the gregarious mains – crispy pork with a special fiery, fermented fish sauce; served with noodles and quail egg. Admittedly, one ‘quails’ at having to pair with this level of food complexity – but I found the answer a bit more inland in a 2017 Markovitis Xinomavro from the hallowed soils of Naoussa in the foothills of Mount Vermio. Markovitis is the first organic winery in Greece Liquid 27

wine A s Theseus slew the Minotaur and rescued the children, he fulfilled his duty to his kingdom. In the contemporary context, the blood of Christ has He sailed home on the ship that became a symbol shift – from the ‘French paradox’ and antioxidant of bravery and purity for Athens. This vessel was miracle to wine being labelled a la any alcohol, a leading preserved in the harbour and was sailed annually in carcinogen? When did an expression of terroir become honour of Apollo. Over the years, however, the ship a product stripped of alcohol, fortified with additives, and decayed, and its parts were gradually replaced. At the marketed as a functional beverage? When did a source parade following the repair of the last remaining original of joy turn into a rigid rulebook designed to constrain plank, a question arose: was it still the ship of Theseus? freedom? Wine finds itself in a similar paradox. Once a hedonistic PICK YOUR POISON symbol of Dionysus, later the blood of Christ at the Among all alcoholic beverages, fermented grape juice – altar, and a staple of everyday dinner tables, wine whether called wine or Drakshasava in the Indian context has endured an incessant, multifront crusade against – has traditionally been regarded as beneficial to health its existence and relevance. This crusade concerns when consumed in moderation. Recent regulatory accessibility, the nature of wine itself, and, ultimately, and policy changes, particularly those influenced by what wine means to society. the World Health Organization, have upended this become a poisoned chalice. When did the narrative AI images: Sandeep Kaul In Defence of Wine 28 Liquid

wine Wine has not emerged unscathed from this churn, as evidenced by a steady flight of consumers. indiscriminately lumped it together with all other forms of alcohol. Actor and vineyard owner Sam Neill aptly notes that policymakers rarely speak about the joy of sharing a bottle of wine with friends – or the measurable health benefits of social connection that accompany it. One wonders how philanthropic fundraising dinners at view. Blanket condemnation has placed alcohol in the policy-making events would fare without a bottle of Cru highest carcinogenic category, failing to acknowledge Classe Bordeaux or prestige cuvée Champagne. crucial nuances such as differences in alcohol source, RISE OF THE POPULISTS concentration and patterns of consumption. If alcohol were music, wine would be classical music, Under this logic, a single glass of wine with 13% alcohol which can delight even untrained ears – the pleasure is treated as equivalent to any spirits shot of 40% alcohol. deepens as one learns about notes, compositions The mathematics and the logic simply do not add up. and techniques. Wine offers a similar progression of Alcohol metabolism does pose risks to the human body an appreciation of regions, grape varieties, styles and enjoyment. It begins with curiosity and evolves into – but so does sugar metabolism, which contributes vintages. This learning is often passive, driven by to obesity, insulin resistance and a host of lifestyle interest rather than academic intent. diseases. Sugar is omnipresent – from baby formula to desserts – and life-threatening diseases are known to thrive on high sugar intake. Alcohol, by contrast, is agerestricted, allowing only adults to make a conscious decision about consumption. However, this pathway has been obstructed by rigid traditions, neo-elitism and barriers to accessibility. The rise of populist critics in traditional wine regions has at times, intimidated newcomers and discouraged experimentation. Dogmatic rules around tasting Policymakers haven’t quite understood the role techniques, food pairings and exclusivity have replaced wine has played in human civilisation and have allure with anxiety. Liquid 29

wine Blanket condemnation has placed alcohol in the highest carcinogenic category, failing to acknowledge crucial nuances. THE STUBBORN MULE The industry’s challenges are not solely external. Many are systemic, rooted in an entrenched resistance to change. Traditional gatekeepers often hesitate to adapt practices, fearing the loss of heritage. That fear is understandable – but the cost of inaction is far greater. This tension is visible in Bordeaux, where major properties are exiting traditional appellations. Producers worry that real-time challenges – climate change, Rebellion movements – natural wine, AI chaperons of wine industry and similar ideologies – began with the promise of inclusivity and renewal. Yet many have merely produced their own brand of populism. Self-appointed shifting consumer preferences and economic pressure – are not being addressed with sufficient urgency. Too often, responses are reactive rather than strategic. choosing Overproduction combined with changing preferences affordable wines. In an industry defined by subjectivity, has left regions from Napa to Bordeaux to Marlborough the focus has shifted from shared pleasure to narcissistic in difficult positions. Bordeaux’s response has included reformers now shame consumers for opinions and the pursuit of Instagram relevance. Some influencers portray dealcoholised wine as the saviour of wine. Yet it cannot be considered wine – either by nature or by law. So-called ‘zero-alcohol wine’ presents a misleading image of naturalness. In reality, wine is artificially stripped of alcohol through processes such as reverse osmosis, altering its organoleptic properties. Wine is therefore far from the accurate description of this category. On one side, pairing Chablis with pizza is considered sacrilege; on the other, discussing soil and terroir is dismissed as bourgeois posturing. It feels as though a great manthan – a churning of the ocean of opinions – is underway, with purists pulling from one end and rebels from the other. Wine has not emerged unscathed from this churn, as evidenced by a steady flight of consumers. Opinions are abundant, yet solutions remain elusive. Like self-styled gurus offering instant enlightenment, many influencers chase the next trend promising to ‘save’ wine, rather than rediscovering and celebrating its fundamental pleasure. 30 Liquid

wine uprooting vineyards rather than proactively permitting new grape varieties. While such measures may not reverse the decline, earlier adaptation could have helped growers preserve at least part of their heritage for future generations. At the same time, heavy reliance on mass production and collective winemaking has tightened margins, making continued operation economically unsustainable for many growers. Some producers have begun experimenting with disease-resistant hybrid varieties to reduce the use of phytosanitary chemicals; agroforestry techniques, such as planting fruit trees between vine rows to provide shade and reduce ambient temperatures (as seen in tea plantations) and regenerative agriculture practices to improve soil health. These relatively small steps are already having a significant impact – without altering the inherent nature of the wine and falling foul of the appellation. Sustainability and inclusivity risk becoming mere buzzwords unless grounded in foundational change. New partnerships must be built through an understanding of local food cultures and customs. Experiments may fail – but failure should not be defined in exploratory work? Accessibility will remain elusive if we do not explore new dimensions in wine, culture and cuisine. Queena Wong, Jane Anson and Chinedu Rosa are also actively expanding accessibility through inclusive wine education initiatives. The Comite Champagne – Group Ritu Award in India has amplified accessibility to the Champagne region for Indian wine professionals. Richard Hemming MW offers thoughtful guidelines on pairing wine with South Asian cuisine and considers regional cooking techniques and ingredients – opening an entirely new frontier for discovery. Efforts like these are materialising the changes in the industry. I left India with a suitcase, big dreams and an equally large education loan to become a winemaker. Now that I am finally there, the goalposts are shifting. Still, I refuse to believe in an apocalyptic end for wine – I just won’t let it happen! L Saket Joshi, a wine sciences graduate from Auckland University, is maître de chai et chef de culture in a Saint Emilion estate and has worked in 3 continents. Liquid 31

bordea ux 1855 Classification Bordeaux Grand Vin in Delhi T he expectation of a free trade agreement between India and the European Union following some very Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce to choose the most positive political announcements from both sides, des Courtiers de Commerce’ brokers assumed this ignited keen interest of some in the wine sector in the responsibility and on the basis of information from last quarter of 2025. reliable trade contacts, which ensured authenticity Against this backdrop, a group from Conseil des and authority, the selected estate was recognised famous Bordeaux wines for the show. The ‘Syndicat Grands Crus Classés en 1855 came to New Delhi: for its terroir and reputation. This Classification was eight châteaux from the key Left Bank Bordeaux published on April 18, 1855 and has largely remained appellations of Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, unchanged – it is a ‘living’ document that reflects the Pauillac and Sauternes. evolution of the Bordeaux wine market. They were all members of the renowned 1855 A series of events – masterclasses, tastings and classification which was requested by Emperor dinners were co-ordinated by Business France India Napoleon III who wanted to present the best French to further its mission to promote French wines in the wines at the Paris Universal exhibition. He entrusted the Indian market. With H.E. Thierry Mathou, Ambassador 32 Liquid

bordea ux welcomed more than 25,000 visitors. For some, cricket matches were played on the grounds – with wine served during the breaks. Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker, a Troisième Grand Cru Classé from Margaux. Represented by Marjolaine Maurice de Coninck, Directeur Général. Owned by the Perrodo family since 2006, this estate traces its origins to 1585. This is a ‘garden’ of just 15 hectares. Through extensive renovations, the family bridged its western and oriental cultures and presented its love of nature through the sensory walks and gustatory discoveries designed for visitors. Château Branaire-Ducru, a Quatrième Grand Cru of France in India, Estelle David, Director and Vianney Meynier, Chef de pôle Agrotech, welcomed the visiting chateaux led by President Philippe Castéja. Classé from Saint-Julien. Represented by President François-Xavier Maroteaux. Owned by the Maroteaux family since 1988, the property where the family live year-round to witness all four seasons of the vine’s During the presentation at the French Embassy in growth cycle, dates back to 1680. 15 micro-terroirs New Delhi, the Bordelais highlighted the importance are identified in the vineyards that are spread in 60 of terroir (the combination of the land, climate and hectares. A 100% gravity-fed vat room with 65 humans) in Bordeaux which is the largest vineyard in suspended vats reflects the commitment to precision. the world with red, rose and white wines. Château Lafon-Rochet, a Quatrième Grand Cru Casteja introduced the 1855 Classification – its history Classé from Saint-Estèphe. Represented by President and its relevance even today – and the distinguished Félix Pariente Lorenzetti. Owned by the Lorenzetti members of his delegation from the Medoc and family since 2021, the estate has a striking golden- Sauternes. yellow exterior that distinguishes it as the ‘sunlight’ Château d’Issan, a Troisième Grand Cru Classé from Margaux. Represented by Edgard Kappelhoff-Lançon of Saint-Estèphe. It is spread over 120 hectares. The family’s goal is to make the best wine to delight of the Cruse family. Its 68 hectares are spread across Margaux, Haut-Médoc and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. In 2013, proprietor Emmanuel Cruse welcomed Jacky Lorenzetti as a 50% partner. Historically, the wine was served at the royal wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry II of England in 1152. The main building was constructed in 1626 and marks its 400th anniversary. Château Giscours, a Troisième Grand Cru Classé from Margaux. Represented by Alexander Van Beek, Directeur Général. Owned by the Albada Jelgersma family since 1995, this is one of the bigger properties in the Medoc with almost 400 hectares – vineyards, parks and forests, stables, vegetable garden… Last year, Giscours celebrated its 450th vintage and Liquid 33

bordea ux Château Batailley, a Cinquième Grand Cru Classé from Pauillac. Represented by President Philippe Castéja. Owned by the Borie-Castéja family since 1924, when it was acquired by Marcel Borie – Philippe’s maternal grandfather. Named by the ‘bataille’ fought on its grounds between French and English forces in 1453, the chateau has had deep associations with British Royals – the 2022 vintage label was dedicated to Queen Elizabeth II. More than 100 years of vintage age safely in its private cellar. Château d’Arche, a Deuxième Grand Cru Classé from Sauternes. Owned by a corporate entity since 1996. Tracing its origins to 1611, the magical 70 hectares estate is in the heart of the Sauternes village. Yields are only 2,000 bottles per hectare. Designed by architects of the Monuments of France, the 2,500 sq.m cellar is 100% natural clad with acacia trunks and reflects the owners’ commitment to reducing their ecological footprint. At the Embassy’s walk-around tasting, each chateau presented their grand vin and at least a second wine. A series of dinners featured pairings with Indian cuisine at Baluchi, the speciality north Indian restaurant at The Lalit New Delhi carefully thought through by Corporate Sommelier Charles Donnadieu and his team of sommeliers along with Pascal Botrel, Administrator at the Embassy of France in New Delhi. Several vintages of the grand vin were presented including some gems going back a few decades. A grand immersion. L Rajiv Singhal consumers and keep it approachable by respecting the 500 years of historical traditions. Château Pédesclaux, a Cinquième Grand Cru Classé from Pauillac. Represented by President Félix Pariente Lorenzetti. Under the ownership of the Lorenzetti family since 2009, the 45 hectares estate is fully committed to sustainability and certified organic viticulture. Architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte’s work is a technological achievement – the striking glass-andsteel structure stands in seamless dialogue with the adjoining historic château. The winery is gravity-fed, so that grapes achieve fullest expression. 34 Liquid Charles Donnadieu & Pascal Botrel

Our cutlery elevates your dining experience. Celebrating over 120 years of quality design and craftsmanship. Exclusive in India • rajiv.singhal@groupritu.in • +91 9810008289

exhibition Vinitaly Opens Doors in India New Delhi • Panaji T he Vinitaly India Roadshow, organised by Veronafiere in collaboration with ITA – Italian Trade Agency, was Representative Italy at the Indian Chamber of held at Taj Palace in New Delhi and Taj Cidade de Goa for Tourism, Information Technology, Electronics and in Panaji in January 2026. This annual international tour Communications of the Government of Goa; Walter dedicated to promoting Italian wine in global markets Ferrara, Consul General of Italy and Srinivas Dempo, ahead of the 58th edition of Vinitaly Verona in April 2026, Honorary Consul of Italy in Goa joined the dignitaries marked its presence in India. and organisers. It was formally inaugurated by H.E. Antonio Bartoli, The day-long event in each city served as both a Ambassador of Italy to India; Adolfo Rebughini, marketplace and meeting ground. More than 30 Director General of Veronafiere; Antonietta Baccanari, Italian wine producers showcased their ranges that Trade Commissioner ITA; and Vas Shenoy, Chief represented Italy’s remarkable regional diversity 36 Liquid Commerce. In Goa, H.E. Rohan Khaunte, Minister

exhibition – from Veneto to Valpolicella – each bottle carrying term partnerships in this dynamic market, which a story of soil, climate and tradition. More than 300 would only be accelerated when the tariff barriers are wine professionals – importers, distributors, retail and progressively dismantled (Editor note: the India EU HoReCa professionals – registered to engage with the free trade agreement was announced a few weeks visiting companies with a palpable sense of discovery after). He added, “Our peninsula is steeped in cultures and intent. and languages. We have 500 different types of wine – Underlining the importance of this rapidly growing wine-consuming and wine-curious market, Rebughini said, “India has been a strategic market for Italian from plains to hills to mountains – an image of cultural diversity. There are so many Italian wine options to pair with Indian food.” trade One of the exhibitors, Brunelli Wines, presented a agreement (in its final stages) puts this market at menu pairing their wines with Indian favourites such the centre of attention among our stakeholders. as paneer tikka, butter chicken and masala dosa... An Beyond commercial promotion, we aim to develop exercise that was a thoughtful reminder that wine, at wine companies. The long-awaited free an Italian wine culture through training, education and wine tourism to connect our businesses and new international audiences.” Raising a toast with Italian wine, H.E. Bartoli welcomed the new younger urbanised wine consumers, who were more sensitive to health and sustainability. He Our peninsula is steeped in cultures and languages. We have 500 different types of wine – from plains to hills to mountains – an image of cultural diversity. confirmed that Italy was committed to building long Liquid 37

exhibition its best, is meant to adapt, converse and find harmony in 2023 with an annual growth rate of 12%. According across cultures. to IWSR, the wine consumption in India was US$ 415 The Amarones presented by the Consorzio Tutela million. Italy is among the top suppliers and the prospect Vini Valpolicella drew steady interest throughout the of reduced import duties on European wines under the day. Torre di Ferzolan 2018 was a personal favourite. long-anticipated India EU free trade agreement has Several producers leaned into fresh, approachable sharpened interest among Italian producers for whom Proseccos with lighter, fruit-forward styles that India represents not just a large population, but a resonate with Indian consumers. A Pinot Grigio market on the cusp of transformation, one where early caught attention. It was in a plain bottle (that looked investment in relationships and education can yield like a water bottle) – an easy, accessible format that long-term rewards. had appeared at Milan Fashion Week. India’s wine market, while still small by global standards, is steadily expanding. According to UIV–Vinitaly Wine Observatory, imported wine value was US$ 30.5 million The roadshow was purposeful rather than promotional, strengthened trade bridges and set the stage for deeper long-term collaboration across retail, hospitality and tourism through trade engagement and education. The emphasis was clear: building There are so many Italian wine options to pair with Indian food, as seen in pairings with paneer tikka, butter chicken and masala dosa. the Indian market is as much about knowledge as it is about availability. The focus was on building understanding of regions, styles and the evolving Indian palate – signalling a long-term commitment to the market. Italian wine sees a future in India and that future is being built now. L 38 Liquid

An initiative of the

tasting Penfolds Back in Delhi S ome wine houses define a category, others define history. Penfolds firmly belongs to the latter. After being away from the Delhi market for some time, the iconic Australian producer has made a confident return to the capitals wine scene. A tasting led by Joshua Yim, the charismatic Penfolds’ Brand Ambassador, was hosted at The Captain’s Cellar at Taj Mahal New Delhi for an invited audience of sommeliers, trade professionals, and wine enthusiasts. With his signature wit and deep- effortlessly the Penfolds legacy connects to its present-day relevance. Founded in 1844, Penfolds is an Australian powerhouse that has a globally revered range of wines that balance power with precision, structure with generosity, and consistency across vintages. The commitment to the house style lies at the heart of this approach. Famed for its multi-regional blending philosophy, deliberate choice has been made to allow winemakers to select rooted brand knowledge, Yim took the room through the best parcels from different regions, varieties, and Penfolds’ story – blending its 182 year journey with soil types to achieve the signature style year after year. the modern winemaking philosophy, and storytelling This approach ensures that each wine remains true to with technical insights. What stood out was how the brand, regardless of vintage variation. 40 Liquid

tasting restaurants, by-the-glass programmes and for nofuss home consumption. Five wines from the Bin Series truly represent the heart of Penfolds’ winemaking identity. These wines focus on regional and multi-regional blending, with each bin reflecting a distinct style and philosophy. These wines are designed not just to impress in the moment, but to reward time in the cellar, making them well worth exploring and investing in. The arrival of Penfolds wines on the shelves of Delhi retail and on luxury hotel wine lists is great news. The capital has one of India’s most dynamic winedrinking audiences, well informed consumers who are increasingly looking beyond labels and countries, and towards stories, craftsmanship and pedigree. Penfolds delivers on all three. Delhi, it’s safe to say, has much to look forward to. L Then there is the meticulous approach to maturation and ageing. Oak is used not to dominate, but to frame the fruit, enhance texture and build complexity over Devati Mallick, is a Certified Sommelier and Founder of DWD Wine Solutions, a wine consulting and experiences platform. time. The results lie in the wines that are immediately appealing, yet structured for graceful ageing – this rare balance has helped Penfolds maintain commercial success and critical acclaim for nearly two centuries. As Australian wines gain more foothold in India, specially after the significant reduction in the wine tariffs since the India-Australia Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement entered into force on 29 December 2022, Penfolds stands tall as the country’s flagbearer in the wine category. The Delhi registration through Walhalla Alcobev includes nine benchmark Australian expressions from their wide-ranging portfolio, selected to showcase the breadth and philosophy of Penfolds to a more receptive market. Four wines from the Koonunga Hill range are at the entry point. These wines are fruit-driven, balanced and incredibly food-friendly. They would be ideal for Liquid 41

event Viva La Vino S Season 2 eason 2 of the multi-city wine festival, Viva La Vino (VLV), brought wine, food, music and community together in eight cities across India – Bengaluru, eight cities across India – Bengaluru, Mumbai, Pune, Jaipur, New Delhi, Goa, Kolkata and Mysore. Organised by sommeliers Gargi Kothari and Devati Mumbai, Pune, Jaipur, New Delhi, Goa, Kolkata and Mallick, VLV was conceived to make wine more Mysore. of the multi-city wine festival, Viva La Vino (VLV), approachable and social, and yet offer a high-quality brought wine, food, music and community together in curated tasting experience. The idea: good wines, 42 Liquid

event zero intimidation, right ambience – a space where people feel comfortable asking questions (or not), discovering new bottles, or simply hanging out, and making new friends with a glass in hand. In every city, the response was consistent: packed venues, and a genuine community-led atmosphere. Depending on the city, an entry ticket got you the option to taste anywhere between 50 to 90+ wines that could be tasted/ enjoyed in quality wine glassware. Bengaluru, Mumbai and Delhi hosted larger editions of 300-350 guests, while the other cities offered more intimate experiences with 100-150 guests. What really set VLV apart was the way it placed wine within a larger lifestyle context. The festival offered wine lovers the chance to explore a wide variety of Indian and international wines. The flexible format was big enough to feel like a festival without becoming overwhelming. With a wide range of styles of wine and countries represented, it was an opportunity to revisit favourites, discover something new, and explore freely at one’s own pace, without pressure or pretence. Alongside wine, VLV integrated Indian artisans – particularly homegrown cheese and chocolate makers – to offer options for pairings and create a communitydriven experience. Born from a conversation between two sommeliers who wanted to move beyond conventional tastings, VLV is a festival that feels fun, inclusive and culturally vibrant, without compromising the wine experience. As India’s first wine festival with a truly multi-city presence, VLV stands as a marker of how India’s wine culture is truly evolving. L Liquid 43

Nebbiolo Prima 2025 Photos: Jolly Thompson event Tasting the Soul of Langhe N ebbiolo Prima, organised by the Albeisa Consorzio, is an annual event that gathers journalists, heritage of the Alba region. The distinctive Albeisa professionals from around the world to taste the bottle, born in the 18th century, is more than glass. newest releases of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. It represents unity, tradition and the pride of a region A preview of the region’s most iconic wines, it is an that has built its global reputation on nebbiolo grape. opportunity to appreciate and understand these Designed to reveal the personality of nebbiolo through wines at their very beginning, before time starts to blind tastings – the appellation, vintage, and vineyard shape them. details of the latest vintages are shared – sharpening Liquid sommeliers, and producers who safeguard both the quality and the wine 44 educators, The Consorzio plays a significant role to bring together

event the focus on what truly matters – aroma, structure, balance, identity. The event presented: Barolo 2022, Barbaresco 2023 and Roero 2023. While each year has its own climatic story, what stood out was the overall impression they created. The Barolo 2022 wines showed strength and confidence. They are youthful and structured, with firm tannins and concentrated flavours that will reward patience. Even in their early stage, many displayed expressive fruit and the kind of depth that hints at long future evolution. Barbaresco and Roero 2023 felt very different. These wines carried freshness, fragrance and a sense of harmony that made them immediately captivating. The aromatics were lifted and bright, and the balance between fruit and acidity created an elegant profile that is both approachable now and promising for the years ahead. Tasting Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero side by side is like listening to three musicians playing the same melody in their own style. Nebbiolo is always the lead instrument, but the tempo, tone and emotion shift from one region to another – a beauty of contrasts. Designed to reveal the personality of nebbiolo through blind tastings – sharpening the focus on what truly matters – aroma, structure, balance, identity. Barolo often comes across with power and depth, especially in a vintage like 2022. The structure is firmer, the tannins grip a little stronger and the aromas lean toward darker fruit, spice and earth. Barbaresco shows its personality with grace. In 2023, many wines displayed delicate florals, softer edges and a red fruit profile that made them feel refined and beautifully shaped. Roero adds yet another expression. The 2023 were charming, lively and aromatic. They had energy, transparency and a sense of ease that made them delightful to taste. Liquid 45

event Monforte d’Alba was a discovery. Even early in the morning, its wines showed fruit-forward aromas and a surprising generosity. In contrast, the Barolo wines leaned toward earthier notes like forest floor and mushroom. The contrast between communes where a few kilometres can completely change the personality of a wine, is one of the most fascinating aspects of the region’s favoured nebbiolo grape. Nebbiolo Prima is also an educational immersion in the region itself. Sessions on soil, climate and history were guided by experts who brought the landscape to life. Professor Edmondo Bonelli explained the geology and the complexity hidden beneath the vineyards. Professor Anna Schneider explained the genetics of nebbiolo and why this grape behaves the way it does. And Emanuele Coraglia explored the broader cultural and natural heritage of Langhe and Roero. These lessons continued outside the classroom. A visit to the Castle of Grinzane Cavour showed that Langhe’s wines are shaped as much by its history as its terroir. Joining a white truffle hunt opened a whole different sensory world. Sharing meals with producers and locals added warmth and stories to the experience that no tasting sheet could ever capture. With a deeper understanding of the wines, I know that when I revisit the Barolo 2022 and Barbaresco and Roero 2023 in a few years, I will be reminded of this tasting – the place where I discovered them for the first time. A meeting with the President of Albeisa Consorzio, Marina Marcarino, was a highlight. Her passion and humility brought the human touch to the event. Equally inspiring were the remarkable women – Carlotta Pasqua, Patrizia Vigolo and Cinzia Luxardo – who coordinated the event so smoothly. Their organisation, communication and hospitality created an atmosphere where every participant felt welcomed and valued. Nebbiolo Prima is not just a tasting event. It is a journey that brings you closer to the soul of Piemonte. Through young wines, shared knowledge, cultural experiences and the generosity of the people who call this region home, it becomes a reminder of why nebbiolo is one of the world’s most captivating grapes. L Mohona Chowdhury is a wine consultant and journalist based in Burgundy. She was a sommelier at a Michelin-star restaurant in Paris. 46 Liquid

event A Preview of Seoul S eoul Soirée – a culinary bridge designed to bring slice of Seoul to the capital – was hosted The Seoul Picante led the charge: a fiery yet playful in November by Le Meridien New Delhi in association and coriander leaves, its salted rim delivering the with Malaysia Airlines. Malaysia Airlines has launched perfect first sip to set the tone. From there, the mood its New Delhi-Seoul connection the event aimed to softened with the Moonlight Harmony – a serene mix offer a delicious preview of what awaits travellers of blueberry and thyme infused gin, homemade melon eager to deep-dive into Korean culture. liqueur, yuzu and tonic water; the kind of drink that The bar showcased a vibrant Korea-inspired selection, blend of tequila, pineapple juice, kaffir lime, jalapeños eases you deeper into the evening. each cocktail capturing a distinct mood of Seoul’s The Seoul Blossom added a touch of whimsy with drinking culture. its lilac tones, aromatic tea base, lavender syrup and 48 Liquid

event a velvety elderflower foam that gave it an indulgent, creamy finish. And then there was the Jeju Highball, a bright, tropical mix of white rum, yuzu extract, passion fruit purée and tonic water, which was refreshing, crisp and a nod to Korea’s growing love for highballstyle serves. The Kimchi Flame stole the show. Tequila shaken with cucumber kimchi brine, lemon, lemon salt and ginger ale created a bold, layered profile reminiscent of a Bloody Mary, but with a beautiful Korean twist. Many guests, especially fellow women, declared it their favourite. Each of these drinks was available as a mocktail, which ensured that everyone had a seat at the table. Le Meridien’s team welcomed all guests and highlighted the collaboration as a way to celebrate cross-cultural exchange through food and drink. Chef Sangil Lee from Le Meridien Seoul Myeongdong Chef Sangil Lee & Chef Shekhar Kiroula and Chef Shekhar Kiroula from Le Meridien New Delhi explained the menu, calling it a curation of their favourite dishes. They spoke about the challenge (and joy) of adapting Korean flavours for vegetarian diners – they created a well-rounded dining experience for Photo: Shivi Choudhary Delhi’s diverse palate. The food and beverage choices echoed Korea’s traditions and the evolving dining scene where citrusdriven spirits, infused liquors, teas and fermented notes are leading the modern palate while staying rooted in tradition. Seoul Soirée recreated this contemporarymeets-classic balance with authenticity and charm. The Deputy Ambassador of the Republic of Korea was the Guest of Honour. He framed the spirit of the evening – cultures meeting over food, hospitality and genuine curiosity. Dinner was a four-course feast: a mango-coconut amuse bouche; crispy kimchi rice balls and seafood pancakes; spicy Korean chicken with buckwheat noodles; and finally a soy-milk pudding. Vegetarians enjoyed bibimbap and Korean-style braised tofu crafted with thoughtful attention. Against the glow of Delhi’s skyline from the 20th floor, Seoul Soirée was a celebration of flavour, travel and connection. For anyone intrigued by Korean beverages from soju’s versatility to fruit infusions, tea blends and highball trends, the night offered more than a taste. It was an invitation to fly to Seoul and experience the culture first hand. L Liquid 49

Indian Single Malts A New Chapter I n a world-first, a showcase of all Indian Single Malt brands under one roof – ten brands, one nation – curated and led by Liveryman Ruchira Neotia, came to life under the banner of The Worshipful Company of Distillers with their corporate partner, Diageo UK playing gracious host at their Great Marlborough Street headquarters. Poetic, as the very first Indian Single Malt – Amrut – was launched in Scotland in 2004. It was only fitting that this next milestone moment in the history of the rapidly rising Indian Single Malt category take place back in the UK – the birthplace of whisky. Ruchira, drinks consultant and India expert, led the journey through India, highlighting how India’s varied terroir & craftmanship shapes a distinctive identity for every brand & bottle. The evening, attended by Captains of the British spirits industry, was defined by Indian pride and India’s whisky craftsmanship. Local craftsmanship and innovation have distilled 50 Liquid Photos: Jolly Thompson event

event From the Deccan Plateau to the Himalayas and tropical Goa, India’s terroir is shaping a distinctive single malt identity. Longitude 77 from the Indian grape capital of Nashik. The interactive evening allowed guests to discuss the intricacies of whisky landscape in India and the importance of Indian provenance as a distinct whisky identity. Craig Wallace, Master Blender of the Diageo World Whisky Portfolio, was a special guest for the evening, and shared first-hand insights into Asia’s rising whisky influence – and India’s unique place within that story. Master Daniel Szor advised the audience, “this distinctive identities into every bottle – each wowed the audience with its story and personality. Godawan and Dōaab from sun-scorched Rajasthan; GianChand in the misty Himalayas; Indri, Kamet and Rampur in booming category holds a bigger share of the world’s largest whisky market than all imported whiskies combined – so ignore it at your peril, or better yet, taste it for yourself.” the foothills; Paul John from tropical Goa; pioneers It’s the dawn of the Indian Single Malt era on the global Amrut from the Deccan Plateau; Crazy Cock and stage. L Liquid 51

la unch Cincoro C A New Standard incoro Tequila has arrived in India, and it carries some serious credentials in its corner. Founded sweetness and Lowland regions that lend earthy and in 2016 by the basketball legend Michael Jordan and 21%, Cincoro agave brix are typically 32%. The agave four rival NBA team owners, united by the shared is slow fermented for 72 hours with its own strain of pursuit of excellence, this ultra-premium tequila proprietary yeast in small clay ovens and artisanal realises their mission to create the gold standard, autoclaves. Double distilled in small copper pot stills transcend the ordinary and elevate experiences. at lower ABV, no more than 58%, the heart is aged Cincoro is a modern expression of tequila – rooted in heritage, elevated by innovation and designed vegetal characteristics. Against the average brix of in Tennessee whiskey barrels to achieve its signature smoothness, complexity and refined finish. to be sipped and savoured. It is crafted in Jalisco India’s rapidly evolving consumer tastes and rising using 100% Blue Weber agave that are at least 6 interest of more Indian consumers (read young) in the years old from both the Highland region that impacts premium and prestige tequila category got Quentin 52 Liquid

la unch Reposado is aged in distillery for 8-10 months. Golden hue. Vanilla, caramel, white chocolate. Long velvety finish. Añejo is aged in distillery for over 20 months. Amber with copper undertones. Toasted oak, maple, dried fruits, spices, dark chocolate. Long, complex, luxurious finish. Delhi, neighbouring Gurgaon and Mumbai will be the first markets, with the focus on five-star hotels, luxury resorts, private members’ clubs, premium lounges and high-end retail. A phased expansion into more potential markets is on the cards – the strategy mirrors Cincoro’s broader global positioning: it does not chase volume, it chases the right rooms and the right drinkers. A big shift is being seen in India’s spirits scene. Slow Job, Cincoro’s Managing Director – International, onto a plane to New Delhi to guide a tasting experience at the Erawan Tasting Studio at The Claridges. The audience of connoisseurs and experts affirmed that the delicious, smooth and refined taste profile was what Indians appreciate. Its India debut is through an exclusive partnership drinking, Collector’s Editions, and experiential luxury are sought after by those who find as much pleasure in the story behind a bottle as what’s inside. With its roots in sporting excellence, its Mexican terroir and its clear ambition to be sipped, Cincoro offers something different. Judging by the reactions in the room that evening, there is no doubt that India is ready. L with Mohan Brotherss, a leading importer of premium alcoholic beverages. Love Jain, Managing Partner, proudly presented the exceptional tequilas. “Cincoro’s global stature, craftsmanship and focus on sipping culture are perfectly aligned to the Indian luxury consumer. Our strength in luxury distribution channels will establish the brand in this complex, multi-tiered and regulated market.” The tasting was preceded by an admiration of the Mark Smith designed stunning bottle which has a distinctive 23° angle – a tribute to Jordan’s jersey number. Its hand-polished stopper, inscribed with ‘Share Truth’. The portfolio – Blanco, Reposado, Añejo – appealed to the discerning audience. Blanco is unaged. Brilliant crystal clear with silver hue. Citrus, grapefruit, jalapeño. Smooth. Complex. Liquid 53

news Carlsberg Unveils World’s Smallest Beer even the smallest quantity of liquid reflected the flavour profile of the company’s non-alcoholic beers. While the volume itself is symbolic, Carlsberg has positioned the project as a continuation of its belief that responsible drinking does not mean compromising on quality or taste. Creating the miniature beer required a highly specialised process. The green glass bottle was custom-made by glass experts, while the filling process relied on ultra-fine tubes adapted from fibre-optic technology to deliver a precise drop of beer. The bottle was then finished by hand, complete with a scaled-down label and metal cap, ensuring visual consistency with a standard Carlsberg bottle. Carlsberg has clarified that the world’s smallest beer will not be sold or distributed for consumption. Instead, it will be used across exhibitions, educational platforms, and brand storytelling to support conversations around moderation. The company has also collaborated with academic institutions in Sweden, inviting students to design even smaller beer bottles as part of a wider exploration of design, innovation, and responsibility. At a time when drinking cultures are evolving and moderation is becoming more mainstream, Carlsberg’s campaign positions restraint as a conscious choice Carlsberg has introduced what it describes as the world’s rather than a compromise. By choosing to minimise the smallest beer, a non-alcoholic brew contained in a bottle product rather than amplify it, the brewer reinforces its measuring just 12 millimetres in height. The miniature stance that responsibility and innovation can coexist. beer, unveiled earlier this year, holds a single drop of In presenting a beer designed to be considered rather liquid and has been created as part of the brewer’s wider efforts to promote moderation and responsible alcohol consumption. According to the company, the project is intended to act as a visual and physical symbol of restraint. By reducing a familiar product to its smallest possible form, Carlsberg aims to encourage reflection on drinking habits and the role brands play in shaping consumption culture. The beer contains no alcohol and is aligned with Carlsberg’s broader commitment to expanding its low and no-alcohol portfolio, a category the brewer has been investing in for over two decades. than consumed, Carlsberg uses scale as a clear and deliberate tool to communicate its approach to responsible drinking India’s First Beer Library When Berlin Brew opened in Andheri East in 2025, it entered Mumbai’s craft beer scene with an idea that went beyond brewing. Launched as a contemporary taproom inspired by post war Berlin, the brand’s The beer was developed at Carlsberg’s experimental strongest statement is its Beer Library, a concept that brewery in Sweden, with an emphasis on ensuring that rethinks how beer is consumed and experienced. 56 Liquid

news FSSAI Redefines Tea in India If you have been calling chamomile, hibiscus or tulsi brews tea, a vocabulary correction is due. The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India has clarified that Envisioned as a quieter alternative to high energy bars, the Beer Library places craft beer alongside literature and invites guests to slow down. Floor to ceiling shelves hold contemporary fiction, classics, graphic novels, and manga. The mix feels accessible rather than academic. Guests pick up a book, settle in, and spend time with both page and pint. only beverages made from the plant Camellia sinensis can be legally labelled tea in India. Black tea, green tea, white tea and oolong remain unaffected. Any floral, herbal, spiced or fruit blend without tea leaves must now be described as a herbal infusion or botanical blend. For years, the word tea stretched comfortably across The concept is anchored by a curated beer programme built for longer sessions. Lagers, wheat beers, fruit forward IPAs, and experimental pours sit alongside a gluten free pale ale brewed with jowar. Infusions of honey, cocoa, and citrus add nuance without overpowering the palate. The focus is balance, beers that suit reading and conversation. wellness shelves, covering everything from floral mixes A visual highlight is the beer tree, a sculptural draft installation that serves multiple beers at once. Popular with groups, it encourages shared tasting and reinforces the brand’s focus on exploration within a calmer setting. will need review. Products positioned for decades as Designed in an industrial European style, the space is softened by warm lighting and comfortable seating. Part taproom, part reading room, the Beer Library sets Berlin Brew apart in a crowded market by pairing craft beer with time, quiet, and a good book. label will be clearer about its contents. Tea growers to caffeine free bedtime brews. The drinks looked like tea and were brewed like tea, so the label felt natural. Under food safety regulations, though, products without tea leaves were incorrectly branded. For brands, the change goes beyond wording. Packaging, front label claims, listings and category tags herbal tea must rebuild identity as infusions or blends, without relying on the familiarity of tea. For consumers, the cup remains the same, but the gain assurance that unrelated brews will not share the name. In a country where tea is woven into daily life, the definition has now been drawn with precision. The brew stays. The branding evolves. Liquid 57

wellness The Plant Protein Boom F or years, whey protein has been the undisputed champion of fitness supplements, and for good a country as diverse as India, where vegetarianism reason. It is fast-absorbing, complete with all essential demand for effective alternatives has shot through the amino acids, and it helps build muscle like few other roof. sources can. But here’s the catch: a surprising number Enter plant-based protein drinks – a vibrant, growing of people simply can’t take whey. Some struggle with category that combines nutrition with accessibility, lactose intolerance or digestive discomfort. Others taste and conscience. But do they work? It turns avoid it due to dietary choices, most notably vegans out that, with the right formulation, they can be and those seeking cleaner, plant-forward lifestyles. In just as effective for muscle recovery, satiety and 58 Liquid isn’t just a preference but often a way of life, the

wellness overall wellness. The trick lies in smart sourcing and but when concentrated into powder form, it offers a thoughtful processing. gentle, grain-based alternative that’s easy on the gut. Most plant protein powders are derived from common The rice is milled and enzymes are used to break seeds, legumes and grains. Here’s a look at the key down the starches, leaving behind a protein-rich options: fraction that’s dried into a fine, slightly earthy-flavoured Pea Protein: One of the most popular plant proteins powder. today. Extracted from yellow split peas, it’s rich Hemp Protein: Hemp has a nutty character and a in branched-chain amino acids (BCAAs), easily boost of Omega-3s and fibre alongside its protein digestible and naturally hypoallergenic. content. It’s not as protein-dense as peas or soy, but Peas are cleaned and milled into flour. Water is added is nutrient-rich and whole-food based. to separate the protein from the fibre and starch. Once Hemp seeds are cold-pressed to remove oil, leaving the protein is isolated, it is dried and ground into a a protein-rich cake that’s ground into powder. Minimal fine powder. The result? A smooth, neutral base that processing preserves flavour and nutritional integrity. mixes beautifully in shakes. Yeast Protein: This is not the same yeast you use in Soy Protein: A longtime staple in vegetarian diets, your sourdough; it is a specially cultivated strains of soy protein boasts a complete amino acid profile, yeast that is high in protein and rich in micronutrients. making it one of the most nutritionally competitive plant proteins. This yeast is grown in controlled environments, harvested, and then processed to remove cell walls, leaving behind Soybeans are dehulled and defatted, then processed protein that’s soluble and palatable for drinks. to extract the protein, which is concentrated or isolated depending on the desired purity. The final powder dissolves well and supports muscle synthesis effectively. Brown Rice Protein: Brown rice might not be the Isolation and refinement turn everyday seeds and grains into smooth, mixable muscle fuel. first thing that comes to mind when you think protein, Pea protein Soy protein Liquid 59

Photo: Sattvic Foods wellness Brown rice protein Hemp protein The key across all these sources is isolation and refinement i.e. removing unwanted components (like excess carbs or fibres) while preserving protein quality and functionality. The result? A lineup of powders that dissolve well, mix smoothly and fuel your body with what it needs, without the dairy. for you. And as more brands innovate with flavours, The rise of plant protein drinks in India isn’t just about following a global wellness trend. It’s about making nutrition inclusive, respecting dietary choices, alleviating digestive limitations, and offering real alternatives that don’t skimp on quality. Photo: Tessin Biotechnology Whether you’re vegan, lactose-intolerant, curious about cleaner eating, or simply looking to diversify your protein intake, plant protein drinks have something formulations, and functional add-ins, today’s plant protein is no longer a compromise. L Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach). LIQUID’S PLANT PROTEIN PICKS Cosmix – Mahabaleshwar Strawberry A blend of pea and brown rice protein delivering 23g protein per scoop; the Mahabaleshwar strawberry flavour is light, fruity, and easy to digest. Super You – Chocolate Made with yeast protein, this smooth chocolate flavour offers 24g protein per scoop without feeling heavy or earthy. Yoga Bar – Coffee Using pea and rice protein, the coffee flavour packs 25g protein per scoop and is naturally sweetened with monk fruit. Oziva – Malabar Vanilla Powered by pea protein isolate, the Malabar vanilla flavour provides 30g protein per scoop with a clean, fuss-free finish. Yeast protein 60 Liquid Happy Cultures – Mango Made with brown rice protein, the alphonso mango flavour delivers 24g protein per scoop, with almond bits and a smooth, non-chalky texture.

india Golgappas A Liquid Revelation O ne of India’s most iconic street foods, golgappas has a fan following across the length and breadth of the country, and now even overseas. I am a die-hard aficionado of these puris (crisp hollow spheres) filled with a tangy spicy pani (water) – my internal GPS instinctively leads me by default to the nearest golgappa counter. Fuchka in Bihar; Gup Chup in Odisha; Paani ke Patashe in Rajasthan; Pani Puri in Maharashtra; Phulki in Jharkhand; Puchka in West Bengal... Each variation reflects local staples, taste philosophy and climatic conditions of the region. I have tried most and enjoyed Popping whole pieces – no one can have just one – into my mouth is a treat and the explosion of flavours is surreal. DISTINCTIVE REGIONAL STYLE What is called a golgappa in north India takes a different name and expression in different states: 62 Liquid Golgappas don’t need to prove anything. In a few seconds, they deliver surprise, balance and memory. Every time.

them, but my personal favourite is the classic Bombay pani puri, a piping hot ragda (soft, steamed, savoury white peas) filling in a crisp atta (wheat) puris paired with a cool, spice and chilli to one’s liking, mint water. Photo: Bhargavi Kothari india HISTORICAL FINDINGS Its origins are layered in lore. In the Mahabharata, Draupadi created phulki, an early version of the snack, for the Pandava brothers in exile. Ambassador to the court of Magadh King Chandragupta Maurya and the Greek historian, Megasthenes, refers to golgappas in his documentation of cuisine. Popular culture was not to be left behind. In the 1970s Bollywood film Amar Prem, actor Om Prakash refused imli (tamarind) pani and enjoyed golgappas with whisky. PANI: THE SOUL The soul of golgappas lie in its aromatic flavoured water, which creates a symphony that captivate the senses, dictates a rhythm and creates memorable culinary experiences. Across Indian regions, pani ranges from sharp and herbal to sweet, fermented, smoky, to creamy. This is exemplified in the Saat Pani Parampara (seven water tradition) – a kind of street food degustation – each sip being intentional, progressive and memorable that originates in Kanpur, the industrial town on the Pani is the soul Liquid 63

india Lahsun Pani (Garlic): Pungent, aggressive, unforgettable. Raw garlic paste, green chilli, lemon and salt. Fiery – this is a signature pani that separates casual tasters from true aficionados. Mirch Pani (Green Chilli): Crystal clear, explosively spicy, minimalist in style. Green chilli, lemon and salt. An expression of pure heat – no herbs, no sweetness, just the intensity of chillies. Sukha Pani (Dry Spice): Earthy, warm and soothing. Sonth (dry ginger), ajwain (carom seeds), saunf (fennel), black pepper, tamarind. Served as a digestif. INNOVATIVE TWISTS Golgappas are intricately woven into the social fabric. In the recent times, they have inspired creative culinary innovations. Chef Hemant Oberoi of Taj Hotels and the Delhi based Punjabi by Nature presented vodka shot golgappas in the 1990’s to runaway success. Chef Manish Mehrotra introduced an option for carnivores – chicken and minced lamb fillings with lamb stock flavoured pani. Manish Sharma of The Oberoi New Delhi serves avocado golgappas, alongside rasam River Ganges. This sequential progression goes from refreshing and acidic to spicy, sweet, umami, savoury and finally digestive. Khatta Pani (Tamarind): Sharp. Tamarind pulp, black salt, roasted cumin and lemon. Chilled, it primes the palate, awakens salivary glands and sets the stage for spices. Photo: Deja Vu Caterers pani. Meetha Pani (Jaggery - Date): Dark, rounded, sweet and gently spiced. Tamarind, jaggery, date paste, dry ginger powder and fennel powder. A balance between acidity and chillies. Teekha Pudina Pani (Mint - Chilli): Bright, green, sharply spicy. Fresh mint, coriander, green chilli, ginger, lemon. This north Indian classic delivers freshness with a fiery kick. Hing Jeera Pani (Asafoetida - Cumin): Savoury, aromatic, digestive with umami. A strong asafoetida infusion with roasted cumin, black salt and coriander stems. Deep and complex. 64 Liquid Vodka shot golgappas

india Michelin starred chefs have lent their endorsements. A hard core golgappa lover, I indulge you with a Himanshu Saini of Trèsind Studio Dubai, the first five-course meal that I created with it. Atta puri with Indian restaurant to win 3 Michelin stars, lets different guacamole and mint coriander chilli water to open. panis perform on his culinary stage. French Chef Followed by rice puri with instant noodle filling and Gregoire Berger featured a version in his 11-course tangy tomato pani. Suji (semolina) puri with aam degustation menu at the erstwhile Ossiano at Atlantis, panna (raw mango) pani and hot ragda filling as a The Palm. main. As a dessert option, a dark chocolate-coated Endless permutations and combinations are being puri with ice-cream soda pani. Finish with a warm rolled out as base for the pani – fruit juices; curries mint tea golgappa. and stock; chocolate and cream; colas and chasers; or the theatrical Nagpuri ‘fire’, where a flaming golgappa is gobbled in one go. AN EYE ON THE FUTURE The ongoing innovations are evolving. Loyalists say that new twists are further expanding horizons, while pessimists say that it is an attempt to keep golgappas In the 1970 Bollywood film Amar Prem, Om Prakash skipped the tamarind water entirely and washed his golgappas down with whisky. Some traditions are timeless. relevant! Let me be nonchalant – golgappas (read classics) don’t need to prove anything. In a few seconds, they deliver surprise, balance and memory. A ‘Golgappa Café’ showcasing tradition and experimentation could be the next trail blazing start-up. L Ritu Singhal Five-course golgappa meal Liquid 65

Heritage Bars Photo: Bars_of_Goa bar Still Pouring Strong G oa’s spirits portfolio may be lined with shiny new bottles – from home-grown gins like Greater Than and Stranger & Sons to exciting vodkas, agave derivatives and liqueurs, but the state’s love affair with alcohol began long before its rise as India’s modern spirit hub – locals have been sipping on Feni and Urrak for several generations. This coastal paradise in Western India has always had a deep cultural connection with drinking traditions. Amidst the shiny glass facades and glamorous rooftops in modern Goa, it’s easy to ignore that its true spirit lives elsewhere. Beyond the neon and newness are bars that have stood for a long time, some for nearly a century – no-frills watering holes where the drinks are honest, Look past the stereotypes and let the real Goa reveal itself, one honest pour at a time. the prices humble, and the atmosphere unmistakably Goan. Step inside and you’ll find cold beers, strong pours, plates of local delicacies, and a charm untouched by time. These are the places where the OG Goa lives and breathes. 66 Liquid

Here’s a guide to some of the oldest bars that have shaped Goa’s drinking culture. SILVA BAR & TAVERN, MARGAO Silva Bar is as grassroots as it gets. Run by Cruz Silva, the establishment is over 100 years old. From a distance, Photo: Mayola Fernandez bar you may mistake it for a chai stall. Blue walls in dire need of a paint job and a counter that display jars of biscuits and snacks – except when one looks closer, they are actually bottles of various spirits. A fridge from a bygone era stores a selection of sodas and other mixers. Come here for authentic coconut and kaju (cashew) Feni. Stay for Uncle Cruz. He is happy to tell you all about the drinks and his journey and the constant smile on his face makes you feel welcome and at home. Sit on vintage chairs surrounded by crates of Limca and Coke as you sip on your choice of poison. Take in the rusty ambience and sip your way to the Goa of the Photo: goenchosoro yesteryears. Joseph Bar Not a Feni fan? Ask him for an alternative. He usually stocks all the traditional local drinks and always stirs up a mean cocktail. Your experience here is bound to be completely unadulterated. JOSEPH BAR, PANAJI There is some debate around whether Joseph Bar first opened doors in 1930 or 1970 and whether it was founded by a Joseph Pereira or Joseph Fernandes. What we do know is that it’s been around forever. Current owner, Antonio Fernandes, revived this rustic, vintage bar around a decade ago and there has been no looking back. You will be surprised by its compactness – barely 3 tables seating not more than 3-4 people each. The vibes are friendly – even the most introverted often find themselves deep in conversation with complete strangers. The drinks are straight forward. You will find traditional brews like Feni and Urrak along with local Silva Bar & Tavern beers like Susegad and Eight-Finger Eddie. Goan gins Liquid 67

bar Photo: Susegado Beer from these bestsellers, they have the usual whisky and rum too. VIRAJ BAR, FERRY POINT Another quintessential Goan gem, Viraj Bar aka Vijesh Bar in Amona Village sits right where the old village ferry point once was. The seating is humble – think plastic chairs and old stone tables – but set up in a way that when you sit and sip on your drink here, you can simultaneously soak in panoramic views of the Mandovi River. It comes as no surprise that they offer excellent seafood snacks. It’s a popular spot among local elders who come here for a mid-afternoon or early evening beer or a Feni Gundu, barman Joseph Bar too have made it to the offering. The grub is local and the menu keeps changing – think chicken cafreal, pork Photo: Karishma Rawat No-frills watering holes where the drinks are honest and the charm untouched by time. sausages, keema pav – it’s spicy and authentic. The bar opens onto the road and often becomes a part of it, creating a buzzing atmosphere every evening, all along the street. AMANCIO BAR, SIOLIM Situated in the heart of Siolim Market, Amancio Bar was founded over 40 years ago by Jose and Rosita Amancio Fernandes. It exudes all the charm of a typical Goan residential home – yellow worn out walls, a humble counter behind which huge shelves hold bottles, ordinary everyday drinking glasses, crates of sodas and a bright red Coca Cola fridge. Amancio has an upstairs seating area – a balcony overlooking the busy little street complete with a yellow railing. They are known for their Feni and Feni cocktails and you can even choose the strength of your drink. Aside 68 Liquid Amancio Bar

accompanied by local delights such as Rawa Fish, Recheado Mackerel and Squid Rava Fry. TEJA BAR, DHARGAL About 30 km away from Panaji lies a quaint little village Photo: thatcheesygoan bar called Dhargal. And within this village is a sweet little bar run by a sweet old Aai who always welcomes you with a smile as you enter. The drink of choice here is Urrak or the smooth Cashew Feni. Enjoy your glass as you sit at an old wooden table and take in the sights: The vintage fridge, the chatter of the locals and the kind of greenery you will never find in the city. The vibes are warm and friendly and even as an outsider, you can’t help feeling part of this close knit Photo: goenchosos community. Photo: goenchosos Viraj Bar Aai, Teja Bar These local bars and taverns can be found in the nooks and crannies across Goa but as tourists, we often tend to miss them as to the untrained eye, they may look like mini grocery stores or just dingy little places we have been conditioned to steer clear of. So, the next time you’re in Goa, look past the stereotypes and step inside – let the real Goa reveal itself, one honest pour at a time. L Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach). Teja Bar Liquid 69