Volume 4 Issue 3 Q2-3 2025 R 180 THIRD ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL Seasonal Sips Recaliberated Refreshment Nashik India’s Wine Capital Arrack Sri Lanka’s Ancestral Spirit

contents what’s inside Tradition Arrack Cocktail Spice on Ice 4 Liquid 14 Tradition 28 Oak Tongba Oak & Spirit 20 Drink 32 Education The Magic of Cold The Sommellerie Landscape 24 37

contents Nashik India’s Wine Capital Wine Pouring Green News 42 Portugal 56 Launch 75 Coffee Oporto N•End Sake International Coffee Day 48 Bordeaux 61 Event 88 Kombucha Lafleur’s Bold Leap The FINE Table The Healthy Fizz 52 64 91 Liquid 5

contents Season Seasonal Sips Experience Alcohol Experiences Wine The Liquid Muse 6 Liquid 94 104 114 Water Functional Hydration Wine Does Wine Speak? 98 108 68 Event A Flavour Festival 72 Event New World Wines 74 Event Sake with Pan Asian 84 News PVR Home Wellness Hangover Elixir Column Ruchira’s Pour 101 112

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publisher’s Volume 4 Issue 3 Q2-3 2025 Publisher: Ritu Singhal Editor: Rajiv Singhal Founder & Advisor: Nadir F. Bilimoria Consulting Editor: Navni Kumar Contributing Editor: Bhisham Mansukhani Design: Sandeep Kaul Printed, Published & Owned by Ritu Singhal at 157, Vasant Vihar 1, P.O. New Forest, Dehradun 248006, Uttarakhand. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida 201306, Uttar Pradesh. Press Registrar General of India (PRGI) Registration: UTTENG/2006/16852 Contact Information M: +91 11 9810008289 E: info@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in any retrieval system or transmitted by any means without the prior written consent of the Publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees do not reflect the opinions of the Publisher or Editor. The editorial team do not accept any liability for any errors. In compliance with the law in India, Liquid does not accept any advertising of alcoholic beverages in the print publication. Liquid reserves the right to refuse note L iquid turns three! How time has flown by since we first presented the extremely diverse world of beverages to a community of passionate drink lovers. Every sip tells a story. Our contributors from around the world have helped us showcase a wide spectrum of drinks – spotlighting traditional recipes from grandma’s kitchen and indigenous ferments from tribal lands – and picking up the new trends shaping the emerging beverage culture such as ‘No & Lo alcohol’ and intriguing cocktail techniques and mixes. While automation and artificial intelligence dominate most customer contact today, we have chosen to keep our ear on the ground – we are listening. Your feedback has helped us evolve Liquid into a magazine that you want to hold, read and enjoy. For this milestone anniversary, we present our very first double issue. We hope that this special issue will amplify your reading pleasure. For the first time, we are indulging you with some more in-depth features. Don’t miss our new Contributors Page which celebrates those who share their perspectives with you. Our trail blazing journey has often been challenging – especially because we have proudly chosen to remain fully compliant with Indian law – but every challenge has further strengthened our resolve to excel. We are committed to treading new paths and adapting along the way, while upholding the high standards that we have set for ourselves. A big thank you to all our partners and well-wishers for their unstinted support. Together, we will continue to explore, grow and celebrate the everevolving Liquid World. Santé! or suspend advertisements. Liquid 9

contributors Ritu Singhal trained as a textile designer at Sophia Bombay and cofounded Group Ritu in 1993. She pioneered luxury tableware import in India since 1996 and publishes India’s first officially recognised wine magazine since 2010. She volunteers to empower women artisans. Rajiv Singhal studied Economics at Yale and consults on market access to India. Since 1997, he created the foundation for wine and wine culture in India. Decorated with civilian honours from France and Luxembourg, he is a proud owner of Champagne vineyards. Navni Kumar is a writer and editor who splits her time between stories, workouts, and beachside escapes. She has a passion for baking and is a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail. Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born lifestyle and luxury writer and cofounder of Elevenses, a hospitality consultancy. His work explores the intersections of travel, design and culinary culture, reflecting a nonchalant mind and a taste for the exploratory moods of life. Kamal Malik MS is India’s first and only Master Sommelier. Based in the Maldives, he loves to engage in thoughtful wine conversations and share knowledge through trainings. He is an avid traveller and culture enthusiast, searching the perfect wine and food pairing. Nandita Kaushik is a creative writer, content writer, blogger and poet who fell in love with words at age 9. Her first book, ‘Rediscover your Midlife Mojo’ has been launched online and at bookstores across India. Uday Varma retired as Secretary to Government of India after over forty years of distinguished public service. An alumnus of Banaras Hindu University and the Kennedy School of Government at Harvard University, he shares his experiences on his blog. Xenia Jamshyd Lam is a hotelier by profession and explorer by heart. She holds a Masters in Gastronomy from the University of Gastronomic Sciences, Pollenzo, Italy and is a published author. Travelling, writing, music and art are her passions. Saket Joshi is cellar master and vineyard manager at a renowned Saint-Émilion Grand Cru estate. He draws on his extensive experience in viticulture and winemaking in Sonoma, Oregon, and Central Otago and is passionate about nurturing vineyards and crafting exceptional wines. 10 Liquid

Fran Bridgewater is a drinks and travel writer and international judge with 20+ years’ experience. Founder of Drinks Network and member of British Guild of Travel Writers, she champions diversity and shapes the global drinks narrative through mentorship, education and engaging storytelling. Ruchira Neotia DipWSET is Founder of Ruchira’s Table and the only Indian in UK’s Top 100 Most Influential Figures in the Drinks Industry (2025). She is a dynamic drinks consultant, judge and writer shaping global wine and spirits scene’s future. Ranak Singh Mann is a writer, designer and PR professional based in Delhi. He enjoys art, fiction, dancing, and entertaining close friends, with a love for sunflowers and sundowners. Bhisham Mansukhani has 15 years of experience in business journalism in wines, spirits and hospitality. He has focussed on India’s nascent wine industry and travelled extensively. Bhisham explores cuisine and volunteers with student and rural communities. Sanghamitra Banik is an Indian origin French wine & finance professional based in Bordeaux. Her business advisory, WineSutra, identifies suitable partners to foster growth and serves as a bridge between the best of France and India. Jiaan Kris Jamshŷd Lam is a hospitality professional with a Master’s from ESSEC Business School, Paris. He is passionate about the arts, has a deep interest in horology and antiquities, explores cultures through cuisine and beverage, and capturing his travels through photography. Manasvi Kalra is a graduate in journalism and economics from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. She is a budding scriptwriter, assistant director and writer who is always down for coffee cold brew and matcha runs. Manya Kadiwala is a Fermentation Science undergraduate at Purdue University, fascinated by how taste, tradition and technology shape what we drink. Her work explores oenology, terroir and fermentation, and she reimagines beverages as expressions of time, place and memory. Mayuresh Joshi has a Master’s of Wine Business from Adelaide University and is a French Wine Scholar, Certified Sommelier and Champagne Specialist. Head Sommelier at Fugazzi Dining Room in Adelaide, he believes that wine is where knowledge, service, and storytelling meet. Liquid 11

Arrack Rising Photo: Shikha Tripathi tradition Sri Lanka’s Ancestral Spirit F or over a thousand years, Sri Lanka has quietly nurtured a spirit unlike any other. Distilled from the sap of coconut flowers – known locally as pol mal theli – arrack is a spirit of versatility, nuanced depth, and profound culture. One of the oldest documented alcoholic beverages in the world, with some sources aromatic complexity of a rum, and a character entirely its own. The story begins at dawn, when toddy tappers – skilled climbers of hereditary lineage – cross rope walkways strung between towering coconut palms to collect the fresh, sweet sap. Each toddy tapper tracing its production as far back as 800 BC, it predates carries a ‘kasa’, a simple yet vital clay or metal pot tied many ‘New World’ spirits. Once the preserve of locals, to the coconut flower stem. As the tapper deftly slices arrack is now capturing the attention of discerning palates the unopened flower, sap drips steadily into the kasa, worldwide, offering the refinement of a fine whisky, the capturing the day’s harvest. Fermentation begins 14 Liquid

tradition almost immediately, aided by the abundance of ambient yeasts, and what follows is a single distillation in a variety of copper pot or continuous stills. As one tree can yield upto two litres a day, the spirit is inherently small-batch and precious. Unlike many modern spirits, arrack is made not from molasses or grain but entirely from coconut flower sap and is aged in native Halmilla wood or steel vats. Halmilla (Berrya Cordifolia), Sri Lanka’s native timber, imparts the spirit with warmth, delicate florals, and mellow spice. Over time, it develops a complexity and mouthfeel. The wood interacts harmoniously with the arrack, its natural oils and tannins weaving nuanced layers into each drop, softening the alcohol while amplifying the coconut and tropical notes. Whether neat, over ice, with mixers or in cocktails, arrack adapts, rewarding both the adventurous and the connoisseur alike. AT ROPEWALK, GALLE FORT HOTEL Top of Sri Lanka’s arrack experiences is Ropewalk, the Galle Fort Hotel’s arrack-dedicated bar – the first of its kind on the island and, indeed, in the world. In 2023, it was proudly named one of the country’s Top 20 Bars by Condé Nast Traveler. Stretching from the polished counter to soaring ceiling of this 17th century boutique hotel, ladders enable bartenders to reach over 100 rare bottles, creating both a dramatic and theatrical tasting experience. Expertly led by the characterful Head Bartender Ruwan, each bottle has a distinct story to tell and every pour a vibrant connection to centuries of craft. “Before we created Ropewalk, no one had thought to focus on arrack as the defining central spirit of a bar,” recounts Claire Holman, General Cluster Manager Far from a passing trend, arrack is shaped by centuries of mastery, infused by the radiant warmth of the tropics, and inseparably tied to Sri Lanka’s landscape. Liquid 15

tradition at the hotel. “Arrack is the spirit of Sri Lanka, and Sri Lanka is the soul of arrack. It’s a heritage we’re proud of and it’s captured in every bottle.” Ropewalk specialises in curated tasting flights, pairing a dazzling array of arracks with traditional Sri Lankan bites, guiding guests on an immersive journey. The bar’s signature cocktail ‘Ropewalk’, crafted by Head Mixologist Nabeel, blends 45-day spice-infused Old Cask Arrack with velvety sous-vide ginger and lemongrass syrup, finished with a splash of fresh lime, creating a graceful interplay of spice and zesty brightness. The team at Ropewalk also showcase a duo of inhouse infused arracks: cinnamon and orange, offering a citrus lift and cherry with star anise, which is rich and subtly complex. Each expression brings its own distinctive character and depth, inviting guests to appreciate the versatility of arrack. A TAPESTRY OF TASTE AND TRADITION Arrack is best discovered in situ, in settings where historical provenance meets a quiet sense of comfort. is a journey in both flavour and heritage. It begins Every expression invites discovery. A tasting flight with White Arrack, matured in steel vats to preserve of the finest arracks at the colonial Galle Fort Hotel its delicate essence. Gentle florals and whispers of 16 Liquid

tradition The story begins at dawn, when toddy tappers cross rope walkways strung between towering coconut palms to collect the fresh, sweet sap. coconut dance on the palate, paired and enhanced by a mini coconut roti stuffed with caramelised onions. Next, Double Distilled Arrack reveals a silkier, more aromatic character with soft hints of cardamom and cinnamon. Paired with crisped sweet potato bites, its nuanced spice is heightened, offering a bridge from light to more complex expressions. The flight deepens with Vat 9 from Rockland Distilleries, mid-gold in the glass and steeped in history. Notes of honeyed molasses, tropical pineapple, and faintly smoky coconut unfold alongside delicate apricot and floral undertones. Drawn from the Rockland family’s private Vat No. 9, this century-old blend delivers a smooth, almost whisky-like mouthfeel, finishing with an elegant warmth that lingers on the palate. Old Reserve 47 Arrack, aged in Halmilla, is yet richer and more commanding, revealing apricot, jackfruit, and caramelised notes perfectly complimented by jackfruit fritters. Often referred to as the ‘King of Arracks’, it boasts the highest of all ABVs: 47% and its peaty depth and complexity hint at decades of patient ageing, inviting contemplation with every sip. One for the whisky aficionados, for sure. Then, from the northern tip of the island comes the elusive Palmyrah Arrack, distilled only in Jaffna. Earthy and rare, it carries notes of wild honey, almond, and spice, and is best savoured alongside boiled cassava and coconut chutney. Revealing a true taste of place, capturing the singular character of its provenance. The pinnacle of indulgence is Ultima, its goldenmahogany glow drawn from 150-year-old vats, Liquid 17

tradition GROWING GLOBAL REACH Arrack’s appeal is already global, with exports reaching Australia, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, and France, bringing a taste of Sri Lanka to discerning palates worldwide. Mixologists serve arrack-based drinks in top-tier bars across Colombo, Dubai, and Singapore. London has become a vibrant hub for arrack enthusiasts. At Hoppers Marylebone, the spirit takes centre stage in seasonal cocktails and immersive tasting dinners, while neighbouring Paradise Soho reimagines it in inventive, Sri Lankan-inspired mixes. For collectors and connoisseurs, specialist retailers such as Gerry’s Fine Spirits, The Whisky Exchange, and Amathus Drinks offer coveted limited editions, including the ultra-premium Ultima. SRI LANKA IN A GLASS Across the length and breadth of Sri Lanka, arrack reveals the island in abundance. From the smooth, Distilled from the sap of coconut flowers — known locally as pol mal theli — arrack is a spirit of versatility, nuanced depth, and profound culture. embodying generations of patient local artistry. “Best described as a blended single malt arrack,” explains Claire Holman of Ropewalk. Each sip is a layered revelation: honeyed and waxy, enriched with tropical florals, gentle spice, and subtle nuttiness. Paired with roasted cashews, the experience transforms into a sensory journey through history and tradition, capturing the very soul of Sri Lanka. 18 Liquid

tradition THE LEGEND OF VAT 9 Vat 9, the prized house blend of the family-owned Rockland Distilleries, is exquisitely balanced arrack whose bouquet hints at the tropics, with the palate unfolding layers of honeyed warmth, toasted coconut, and a touch of nutmeg. Graceful florals, soft spice, and subtle woody undertones lead to an elegant, lingering finish. In the early 20th century, the excise ordinance allowed distillers to reserve small quantities of spirits for private consumption. Born from a family reserve nurtured over decades, each bottle embodies generations of refinement, making Vat 9 both a tasting experience and a living legacy of Sri Lanka’s craftsmanship. With grilled prawns and tropical seafood, each bite echoes and enhances the spirit’s layered complexity. floral, and subtly nutty expressions from southern most refined menus. Rooted in its island landscape coconut to the rare, earthy, and spiced ones in the and produced in small batches by tradition rather than north, each bottle captures the essence of its origin trend, arrack speaks with honesty and authenticity, and the skill of its makers. While some distillers qualities that set it apart from many modern spirits. embrace steel vats for crisp clarity, others have stayed The Colombo Sour, a signature cocktail of lime, palm true to native Halmilla to impart depth, warmth, and sugar, and Old Arrack, with its balance of elegance centuries of wisdom and refinement. and tropical flair, is perfectly poised to become the Whether savoured alone, in a cocktail, or alongside a thoughtful pairing, each sip reflects the island’s next signature serve for visionary mixologists and influencers seeking a truly undiscovered gem. heritage and vibrant identity. Sipping arrack is a Far from a passing trend, arrack – with a lineage older journey in itself. Neat or over ice, it reveals layers of than whisky and distillation as intricate as Cognac florality, honey, and integrated spice; paired with soda, – is shaped by centuries of mastery, infused by the ginger beer, or cola, it comes alive with effervescent radiant warmth of the tropics, and inseparably tied to vibrancy. In cocktails, it steps effortlessly into the shoes of rum or whiskey, transforming classics like the Old Fashioned or Sour into something unmistakably Sri Lanka’s landscape. Timeless, and unmistakably authentic, it continues to embody the island’s flavours, and traditions, offering a spirit that leaves a lasting Sri Lankan. And in the company of the island’s cuisine, impression. arrack rewards the palate with harmonious interplay, a Arrack is, undeniably, the quintessential spirit of Sri true reflection of its heritage and terroir. Lanka: steeped in history, nurtured by nature, and Mixologists across the globe are now awakening to arrack’s elusive harmony of tropical vibrancy and layered complexity. In an era that celebrates sustainability and the revival of artisanal craft, this spirit feels destined for its moment: ready to shine on the world stage, from cutting-edge cocktail bars to the destined to be savoured and celebrated across the globe. Ayubowan! L Fran Bridgewater is a wine, spirits and travel writer and international judge with over 20 years experience. Founder of Drinks Network, she champions diversity. Liquid 19

Photo: Reina Gurung tradition A Himalayan Secret Tongba Tongba Chowk, Hile I n the Himalayan regions, tongba is more than just a drink – it’s a cultural experience that is intertwined and their centuries-old customs is felt. This moment with festivals, ceremonies, and social gatherings. hospitality, camaraderie, unity, and the rich cultural During the Losar festival in Tibet, families and friends heritage of the people of this region. gather to celebrate the Tibetan New Year and tongba is passed around. Similarly, in the villages of Nepal, for when people come together for the Maghe Sankranti festival to mark the end of winter. encapsulates the essence of tongba – a symbol of ITS STORY Tongba traces its roots to the Limbu community of Nepal, who have been brewing this beverage for centuries. The word tongba itself refers to the When the liquid is sipped through a bamboo straw, traditional wooden vessel used to serve the drink. an instant connection to the Himalayan communities Limbu’s believe that the drink was first created by 20 Liquid

tradition their ancestors to celebrate the harvest. Over time, tongba became an integral part of their social and cultural fabric. MILLET MAGIC What exactly is tongba? It’s a millet-based alcoholic beverage. Don’t let the ‘beer’ tag mislead you – it’s far from the average brew. Tongba isn’t ready-to-drink. Think of it as tea’s boozy cousin; instead of steeping leaves in hot water, you pour hot water over fermented millet seeds, let the flavours bloom. The best part? Sustainability. It’s traditional, eco-friendly, and perfect for travellers. After all, millet seeds are easy to carry – all you need is a kettle of hot water to bring this beverage to life. Those millet seeds aren’t one-hit wonders – you can reuse them up to four times. FROM THE PEAKS TO YOUR CUP Tongba’s journey begins in the Himalayas, where it has been a staple for centuries. While Nepal is its true home, this drink in found in Tibet, Sikkim, and parts of Assam. Some even call it a backpacker’s best friend, ideal for warming up after a chilly day of exploration. Sharing a warm mug of tongba is a gesture of friendship and a way to connect with Himalayan traditions. Whether enjoyed in a cosy home or a bustling market, it has a special way of making every occasion feel more festive. DRINKING TONGBA Tongba has a milky, mushroom-y flavour with a hint of breadiness. It’s earthy and warm, with a unique profile that grows on you with every sip. It doesn’t hit you like many other liquors would – it isn’t about over-the-top Whether you’re drawn to its unique flavour, low-key buzz, or the charm of sipping something with centuries of history behind it, tongba is a must-try. intoxication. With an alcohol content hovering at 2% to 5% (give or take), it offers a mellow, calming effect. Some even say the word tongba roughly translates to emptiness. And while that might sound deep, it perfectly describes the light, almost meditative vibe Photo: Munlom Nature Resort Photo: wideworldofwine.co you’ll feel post-consumption. Millet Making tongba Liquid 21

Photo: Binod Bhattarai tradition Tongba RTD MODERN DAY POPULARITY Tongba’s appeal has started to spread only recently. Adventurous tourists and travellers often seek it out as a way to connect with local culture. Some boutique cafes and lodges in Nepal and Northeast India have even introduced modern variations, pairing it with fusion snacks or serving it in trendy settings. This fusion of old and new ensures that tongba continues to thrive in contemporary times. Whether you’re drawn to its unique flavour, lowkey buzz, or the charm of sipping something with centuries of history behind it, tongba is a must-try. Its simplicity, sustainability, and rich cultural ties make it a beverage that’s as meaningful as it is enjoyable. So next time you’re craving a warm drink while you’re in the Himalayas or the Northeast, ditch the chai and go for tongba instead. Every sip will bring you a step closer to Himalayan zen. L Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach). 22 Liquid

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drink Shaping Drinks The Magic of Cold A s the snowflakes fall and the cold wind gushes through crevices, hidden cellars come alive with Winter’s cold clutches do not always halt life; they concoctions that will be sipped on, bringing warmth to patiently and magically, churning flavours that leave a the coldest of hearts. While winter is often associated wonderful warm aftertaste. Across the world, climate with long slumbers and short days, it is also a silent has influenced traditional methods that continue to collaborator for brewers, vintners and distillers. Its transformative chill shapes fermentation, slows stretch it. The enzymes and yeast work more be practiced today, proving that necessity and nature together can inspire excellent craftsmanship. maturation and enriches flavours, helping create some To help you understand these winter-driven traditions, of the world’s most iconic drinks – Japanese snow-aged here’s a closer look at drinks that bear winter’s signature. sake, Canadian and German ice wine, Bavarian lagers, JAPANESE SNOW-AGED SAKE Korean rice brews and Alpine spirits – proof that winter is Brewed in cold cellars insulated by walls of thick as much an ingredient as grains and grapes. snow, this drink is prepared in the Niigata prefecture 24 Liquid

drink in Honshu. These walls can sometimes weigh upto a thousand tons and the temperatures can go as low as 0°C, with high humidity. The sake – left in the cellar for months, resulting in a smooth, creamy texture with a touch of umami – is symbolic of the purity of the snow and the severe winters in Japan. CANADIAN OR GERMAN ICE WINE Ice wine credits its existence to the harsh winters of countries like Canada and Germany. The process of making it is interesting. Left to freeze on its vines, the frozen grapes are picked and pressed between eager fingers. This causes the small water crystals to separate, leaving the sweet nectar of sugars and acids – the main ingredient of ice wine. First made in the 18th century in Germany, ice wine from Canada is now very highly reputed. It is luscious, aromatic and laden with fruit like apricot, lychee and citrus. BAVARIAN LAGER A common ritual followed in ancient times continues to live in Germany and the Czech Republic. Bavarian Japanese Snow-Aged Sake The enzymes and yeast work more magically, churning flavours that leave a wonderful warm aftertaste. brewers cut ice from lakes and stored it in their hauntingly dark caves to cool their vats that then fermented at a slower pace, as patient as the winter that surrounded them. This process helped create a very popular beer that has a very crisp taste. It stands tall in its glass signifying the journey it made through the teeth-chattering cold. If you are walking through the cobbled streets of the Czech town of Plzeñ, do try their golden Pilsner. SCANDINAVIAN AQUAVIT When talking about cold countries, one cannot overlook the Scandinavian countries of Norway, Denmark, Finland and Sweden – known for their particularly cold temperatures. Traditional rituals Bavarian Lager are used to make Aquavit, a flavoured drink using Liquid 25

drink KOREAN DONGDONGJU & MAKGEOLLI Made from Korean rice, the Makgeolli and its countryside cousin, Dongdongju have a long history with winter. They require very low temperatures that control the fast fermentation and are stored in glass jars, left to mature in cool temperatures or buried deep into the ground. The brewers, often families, take advantage of the fact that winter allows them to mature their beverage at a very slow pace, and this results in creating the right amount of sourness, creamy texture and a beautiful wintery sparkle. COLD-FERMENTED NATURAL WINE In the countrysides of France, New Zealand, and Austria, cold-fermented natural wines are patiently nurtured through the season, taking until spring to reach readiness. By then, the departing winter leaves its subtle sillage in crystal glasses, transporting the connoisseur to a landscape shimmering with white sparkle. The wine has fruity and floral notes and is made in cold cellars with lovely acidic and fresh Aquavit ingredients such as caraway, dill and other local herbs that grow in Nordic winters. Aquavit stands out due flavours. L Ranak Singh Mann is a writer and designer based in Delhi. He loves sunflowers and sundowners. to its maturation process. Aged in sherry casks and loaded onto ships for voyages across icy seas – these casks sail the world and cross the equator twice! It is believed that the swaying, fluctuations in temperatures and humidity enhances the flavours beautifully. Often had as a celebratory drink, it is associated with winter festivals. ALPINE SPIRITS Remember Heidi, the happy mountain girl that ran through the rolling greens of the Swiss alps, exploring wild herbs, stone fruits and snow-chilled caves. The Alpine mountains of France, Italy and Switzerland have offered their bountiful ingredients to distillers to prepare the French Génépi, Italian grappa and Swiss Krischwasser – aged in oak casks in the mountains in cool conditions, carrying the crispness of the altitude. They contain floral and resinous notes and are enjoyed poured into crystals at snowbound chalets speckled across the mountain ranges. 26 Liquid French Génépi

cocktail Spice on Ice A sk any Indian what their comfort flavour is, and chances are it won’t be ‘sweet’ or ‘sour’ – it’ll be Talk to the baby boomers, loyal to their Black Label, ‘spice’. As Indians, we love a kick of spice in just about curl of smoke that reminds them of spice. That little everything – so why not in our drinks? Beyond the flicker of recognition is what’s cracking the code for a sprinkle of masala or a chilli garnish, there’s a world of distilled spirits that carry their own subtle, layered spice profiles. Familiar layers shape how we perceive spice. and they’ll tell you what they love isn’t peat but the faint new wave of spirits. A smoky mezcal that could pass for tandoor in a bottle. An aquavit with caraway that tastes like ajwain on a hot paratha. A slug of Fernet, its bitter edge recalls roasting methi on the pan. Together, We discover how to truly spice up your tipple – the right they form a ring of familiarity. And that’s where the fun way. begins – discovering how spice can live with the spirit. 28 Liquid

cocktail WHY SPICE CLICKS More often than not, it’s a subconscious flavour profile that creeps in, evoking nostalgia through tastes we are hardwired to recognise. Spice is coded into how we perceive flavour – and while heat is the most obvious association, the real pleasure lies in its warmth and familiarity. Ansh Bhatia, restaurant manager at Loya at the Taj Mahal Hotel Mumbai, sees this play out night after night. “We rely on spirits that carry spice, smoke, and warmth naturally – like mezcal, bourbon, tequila, and Indian single malts,” he says. “These bases bring in layers of earthy, smoky, or bitter-sweet spice, which we balance with fruits, botanicals, and citrus. This way, the ‘spice quotient’ is built into the drink, without adding heavy-handed masalas.” And that’s the key Masala Whisky Spice is coded into how we perceive flavour — and while heat is the most obvious association, the real pleasure lies in its warmth and familiarity. to unmasking true flavours of spirits in a cocktail – or even in a riff on a classic, where the foundations rely heavily on the base spirit. On Loya’s menu, already fixated on punchy Indian flavours through its focus on cuisines of India, this Brass & Bitters Liquid 29

cocktail approach translates into their signatures with ease. ‘Vintage Paloma’ uses smoky mezcal with bittersweet Aperol, mellowed by grapefruit, lime, and a punch of vintage chai, reminding guests of smoky tea tannins. ‘Masala Whisky’ starts with honeyed bourbon, lifted by orange bitters, and layered with smoked star anise, bringing in a touch of modern flair. The effect isn’t That curiosity for naturally spiced spirits extends well beyond rum. As Sameer Shaw, head mixologist at Aasmana, Ritz-Carlton Pune, notes: “We’ve seen growing appreciation for Indian single malts, which captivate with their distinctive profiles, often naturally spiced with cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg – flavours that feel familiar and elevated to the palate.” Discerning spirits like Amaro are steadily gaining popularity as a sophisticated ingredient. Mezcal, sparks interest for its smoky, herbal, spice-infused character. Even whisky has followed suit. Jack Daniel’s Cinnamon Fire and its ilk are built to slot into the Pineapple & Guava Aasmana novelty for novelty’s sake, but a defined expression of why spice-forward spirits feel so at home here. THE GLOBAL SPICE RACK Spice shows up everywhere in spirits, sometimes as part of the distillation, sometimes as an additive that lends comfort. The most obvious example is spiced rum. Its natural association with tiki cocktails and fruitheavy punches almost demands a touch of spice, which is why you’ll easily find brands like Bacardi putting out versions redolent with clove, nutmeg, or vanilla. seasonality of cold-weather drinking. We’ve borrowed those cues wholesale: think Thanksgiving, Halloween, and Christmas rituals that have made mulled wine, eggnog, and pumpkin-spice-everything more about a shot of cinnamon-spiked whiskey or rum than the holiday itself. The effect isn’t novelty for novelty’s sake, but a defined expression of why spiceforward spirits feel so at home here. Some spirits are built with spice from the ground up. Bombay Sapphire East, for example, adds black peppercorn and lemongrass to its base London Dry profile – a clever way to layer the spice. Closer home, 30 Liquid

cocktail Rajasthan guards a spirit that could not be more different in its approach. Kesar Kasturi, a traditional liqueur, historically consumed in royal courts and on festive occasions, is made with saffron and over 20 herbs and spices, including dry fruits, roots, and barks. It carries an almost medicinal punch, but also a regal luxury thanks to the saffron giving it a slightly sweet and resinous profile. BEHIND THE BAR COUNTER The story of spice begins with classic cocktails. The hot toddy – whisky, honey, lemon, and clove – has long doubled as comfort and cure. Punch, which originated in India, married tea, spirit, citrus, sugar, and spice into a communal bowl, becoming a template for balance that still guides bartenders. And the word is ‘balance’. At Ekaa Mumbai, bar manager Apurv Bhatwadekar says, “I treat spice the same way a chef would treat it – it’s all about layering. If I’m combining two or three spice-forward spirits, I let one take the lead and allow the others to play a supporting role. Then I bring in acidity, sweetness, or even texture to frame those spice notes.” His ‘Brahmi’ does exactly that with cinnamon upfront, but with a gentle, addictive personality which brings you back for sip two. Chilli On It’s the kind of thinking that makes spice more nuanced. Which is why at Yauatcha Mumbai, beverage head Merwyn Alphonso calls spice “a delicate yet intriguing flavour in cocktails” – one that defiantly overwhelms when overdone. He splits it neatly into sweet spice (ginger, cardamom, cinnamon) that flatters fruit, and heat spice (chilli, jalapeño, bell pepper) that adds boldness to spirits. Their ‘Mexican Stimulant’ is case in point: tequila and Ancho Chile liqueur, elevated by aero-pressed coffee, agave, chilli, smoke, bitterness, all in one sip, yet stops short of bullying the palate. And just when you think you’ve sipped every angle of spice, Bangalore throws a new card on the table. Sama in Ulsoor builds its entire philosophy on the word ‘balance’. Their ‘Chilli On’ – Patrón Silver, Creyente mezcal, watermelon shrub, sherry, citrus, saline comes with a spice tincture you add yourself – you decide how far you’re willing to go. Intriguing how balance is made personal. So be it spice in any form, the real deal lies in bringing the A-game straight from the bottle. After all, there’s a reason those spirits carry their character in the first place. L Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai born food and beverage expert, restaurateur & writer who strives to wed the flavours of food to the myriad moods of life. Liquid 31

oak Oak & Spirit “I A Patient Transformation n the cool hush of the cellar, time slows to the pace of a heartbeat. Rows of oak barrels breathe A PARTNERSHIP BEYOND TIME In the long, unhurried corridors of human quietly, their curved staves holding more than spirits – craftsmanship, some partnerships seem pre-ordained they cradle years, seasons, and the slow alchemy of – not forged by necessity but for a deeper, wordless transformation. Here, the forest meets the vineyard, harmony. Such is the enduring bond between oak the distillery, the dream. The oak does not boast; it and the world’s finest wines and greatest spirits. simply waits, letting the spirit ripen into something This relationship is steeped in history, chemistry and worth remembering.” culture, and a quiet composition of the senses. It is a 32 Liquid

oak union older than most dynasties, steadier than most treaties, and richer than most romances. It is not very clear as to when this partnership began. Perhaps it was a pragmatic choice – oak was abundant in Europe, and easy to shape into watertight barrels that were used to store the prized alcoholic drinks. But what started as convenience was seen to evolve into something much more far reaching. For somewhere between the filling of the first cask and the pouring of the first aged spirit, it was discovered that oak did not merely ‘store’ – it transformed its contents. “Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.” So said Lao Tzu, prophetically! It is, in the end, a story about trust – the oak trusting the spirit to be worthy of its gift, the spirit trusting the oak to shape it into something finer. Liquid 33

oak THE CELLAR AS A CHAPEL and spirits are the willing pupils. There is no haste. “In the dark belly of oak, time whispers to spirit until Months pass into years, and years into decades. The both emerge transformed – one mellowed, the other spirits grow wise. immortal.” DIALECTS OF OAK To walk into a wine cellar in Bordeaux or a whisky Traditional vintners say, “barrels are not just vessels; warehouse in Islay is to step into a ‘chapel’. The light they are storytellers” and this story is told in different is dim and golden, filtered through dust and the years. dialects. Oaks sourced from different continents The air is cool, heavy with the mingled scent of alcohol speak in unique whispers. French oak has a tight- and wood that could intoxicate without a single sip. grained structure, offers a touch whisper of spice, and Rows upon rows of barrels stand like silent monks, each guarding its own slow miracle. You hear the soft creak of staves adjusting to the liquid’s weight, the whisper of evaporation – ‘angel’s share’, as it is known to the industry. silkiness that feels like candlelight. American oak is generous and open-grained, imparts vanilla, caramel, and the golden sweetness of sunlit barns. Japanese Mizunara oak is rare and unpredictable, yields exotic aromas like sandalwood, coconut, and reminds THE CONVERSATION WITHIN Inside every barrel, an intimate conversation unfolds. The spirit seeps into the wood, dissolving secrets – vanillin, tannins, and a bouquet of spice and smoke. Oak responds, absorbing the spirit’s raw edges, Technology can mimic flavour, but not depth; it can recreate aroma, but not soul. Photo: Speyside Cooperage smoothing and deepening it. Oak is a patient teacher, 34 Liquid

Photo: Zak Cooperage oak a memory of temple incense drifting on mountain air. These woods are not mere containers; they are collaborators, co-authors of the final experience. SHARED TRIUMPHS History is filled with the shared triumphs of oak and alcohols. The great reds of Burgundy, the velvety ports of Douro, the peaty single malts of the Scottish islands, the dignified sherries of Jerez – all have their character etched with the influence of oak. Even the fiery bourbons of Kentucky, born in fresh-charred casks, owe their amber colour and sweet smokiness to the tree that once stood in a quiet forest, gathering sun and rain. THE PATIENCE OF PERFECTION And always, the poetry of patience endures. There is no shortcut to this magic. Technology can mimic flavour, but not depth; it can recreate aroma, but not soul. Oak teaches us that certain pleasures ripen only in their own time, and that the wait is as essential as the reward. As a famous proverb proclaims: “the best things in life are aged: friendships, wisdom, and fine spirits.” Nothing could be truer. Liquid 35

Photo: Barrique SA Photo: Old Pulteney Distillery oak or fermented into a single moment. You feel the wind Once the time comes to end the long sleep in the that once moved through the oak’s leaves, the rain cellar and the barrel is finally opened, it pours its heart that once soaked its roots… And in that taste, you out. Something astonishing happens. The drink is understand why this partnership has lasted through no longer an alcoholic drink – it is the memory of the centuries: because oak and the spirit together are forest and the memory of the years in oak, distilled greater than either could be alone. Photo: Holm Oak THE MOMENT OF REVELATION THE LASTING TRUST Across continents and cultures, this quiet collaboration has shaped some of the finest expressions of human indulgence. From the candlelit tables of Paris to the smoky taverns of Edinburgh, from the verandahs of Kentucky to the tea houses of Kyoto, the oak’s influence is poured and shared, toasted and treasured. It is, in the end, a story about trust – the oak trusting the spirit to be worthy of its gift, the spirit trusting the oak to shape it into something finer. A story about time – not measured in clocks but in slow breaths, cool shadows, and patient transformation. And above all, a story about the beauty of what happens when nature and human craft work not in opposition, but in harmony. One barrel at a time. L Uday Kumar Varma is a Harvard-educated civil servant who retired as Secretary to Government of India. He shares his travel experiences on his blog. 36 Liquid

education The Sommellerie Landscape Wine Education in India E ducation, whether by way of academic rigour or informal training, is the backbone of any profession. In India, as wine production and wine import grew in the It is the abiding belief of the practitioners, scholars and did not however keep pace nor was it accorded the the performers of any discipline that education is the priority it deserved even if brand tastings had been the blood that runs through any system and sustains its perpetual life. Wine is no exception. In fact, as wine itself gets better with age, the modern wine professionals last three decades, so did consumption. But education primary tool for boosting wine sales for importers and domestic producers alike. grow by the dint of knowledge they consume and It was the French Ministry of Agriculture that launched insights they gather. the first initiative for educating the Indian wine Liquid 37

education professional. In 2001, when the highest customs tariffs on wine were imposed by the Government of India, France responded by reposing their confidence on the Indian market and signed off to long term returns while all other wine countries withdrew from the Indian market to seek opportunities elsewhere. Under the Wines of France program that was established by Chargé de Mission Rajiv Singhal, sommeliers who had won international titles were invited to India for the very first time. For seven years, classrooms popped up across the length and breadth of the country to enlighten Indian wine professionals and laid the foundation for wine education in India. Meant to be a catalyst, it did just that. Wine importer Sanjay Menon got the ball rolling, so to speak, and established the KBR School of Wine to deliver learning modules and content to the teams of hotels he was supplying wines to. Soon, there was need for certifications for which the legacy wine educator, Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) was a natural choice, Sanjay recalled. WSET headquarters in London were reluctant but the late Steven Spurrier Rajiv Singhal Investments in wine education, not brand promotions, will drive the next phase of India’s wine industry growth. played a role to stitch an agreement. “I had hoped that the structured certified courses would be well received by the hotels but was disappointed. They didn’t believe the WSET courses were worth the financial investment and were more happy scheduling promotional trainings by importers.” Sanjay felt that the subsequent compromises by competitors augured badly. “WSET courses had a specific structure and set of wines mandated for each level. But some providers in India were tasting general varietal wines and, in some cases, students tasted only half the mandated wines, of which some were domestic – another digression from the prescribed syllabus.” Sanjay took a step back from providing WSET courses Sanjay Menon 38 Liquid in India and instead focussed on Maldives. He hasn’t

education Sawant saw when he returned from overseas in 2016 armed with a Court of Master Sommelier Advanced Level certification. The rigour of jumping through this incredible academic hoop made him appreciate the need to introduce service-oriented wine education. “Young professionals were keen but the need for international travel added to the financial burden. The first CMS courses delivered in Mumbai in 2018 were not without challenges. But the quality and depth of content and its trade centric focus was appreciated and many aspiring sommeliers enrolled.” This fuelled the success that CMS has enjoyed in India – they are now in their 10th year and more than 200 have cleared at least the Introductory level. Vikram Achanta however ruled out a return to the presently booming wine education segment in the near future. Having established itself in India as the first wine education platform that played a defining role, WSET appointed Tulleeho as an Approved Programme Provider in 2009. Vikram Achanta shared, “Sommeliers are a vital bridge between brands and consumers, translating the complexities of wine into approachable, engaging stories. Our WSET courses opened up a career avenue for young professionals as some hotels began to accept them as a credential.” But the lack of awareness about the role of a sommelier was still a concern. That was the scenario that Viraj Apurva Gawande The arrival of WSET and CMS created distinct pathways for theory-based and service-oriented wine learning. WSET Trainer Apurva Gawande echoed the significant change in the perception of the position of a sommelier and believes that the presence of both WSET and CMS in India augurs well for Indian sommeliers and wine education – notable when put in context of a time two decades ago when neither were offered in India. “The distinction between the two pathways is important. WSET takes a structured approach to theory and Viraj Sawant tastings and is ideal for those who see a career in media Liquid 39

education and marketing. CMS is tailored to individuals who work the shop floor i.e. the sommelier.” Devati Mallick, who has scaled stages of both WSET and CMS, reflected on how the arc of wine education and its importance to the trade has evolved. “The emphasis of CMS on service and skills training, specific to working on the floor and insights about guest interactions was an incredibly helpful dimension beyond learning about wine as a subject.” Another factor that made wine education more demanded was access to international scholarships to defray the daunting costs. The Gerard Basset Foundation named after the legendary Master of Wine, Hridhay Mehra Interestingly though, there remain a large number of ‘sommeliers’ who have don’t enjoy the defined role and are expected to work beyond their remit. And neither of this is necessarily a bad thing, said Hridhay Mehra, Sommelier at Masque Mumbai. Despite being both CMS and WSET certified, he believed that “if you’re working on the floor, you take the role of the sommelier. Some sommeliers don’t have substantial wine education but do know their stuff and are impeccable at wine service. Most have a keen awareness of their profession.” Hridhay also takes the contrarian view on the binary focus on the sommelier. “In the Indian Devati Mallick context, one can’t be a one trick pony. There are some evenings at Masque when some tables don’t order wine Master Sommelier and MBA is one such institution. A recent recipient, Amrita Singh co-founded in 2024 the Sommeliers Association of India (SAI) which secured affiliation to the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI). Amrita explained how SAI was founded on three pillars – education through curated courses in collaboration with WSET and CMS, ASI certification of sommeliers and membership for both the trade and consumers. She expects SAI to grow exponentially and empower the sommelier community in India, with scale and exposure. “SAI would give unprecedented access and international recognition to Indian sommeliers. The winner of our Best Sommelier India competition will represent India at the World Sommelier Championship.” 40 Liquid Amrita Singh

education The sommelier’s role in India now extends beyond wine to overall guest experience and service excellence. sommeliers, he said he will do more even if he is based in Maldives but believes that his achievement should itself be the trigger for others, “I am the first Indian MS, but will surely not be the only one.” Kamal believes that while many talented sommeliers have shifted overseas, it is imperative that some will return in the future. This hits a relevant note with Jai Kamal Malik MS Singh, the winner of the first SAI Best Indian Sommelier or might prefer cocktails. Real world guests don’t judge Competition and semi-finalist at the Best Sommelier sommeliers on the basis of the pins on their lapels but rather, all round skill and presence.” of Asia & Pacific ASI contest in Kuala Lumpur, who works in Italy. “My wine journey was not restricted by This finds Hridhay in agreement with an Indian sommelier who now sits at the very pinnacle of the CMS pyramid. Kamal Malik made history to become India’s first Master Sommelier. Kamal emphasised, “Sommeliers must make the connect between theory and their palate to deliver a wine experience to guests which is better than their expectation as well as recommend wines that will be the next best thing. Wine is meant to be savoured, not prescribed like a medicine.” When asked about the role he can play in supporting young Indian wine geographical boundaries. The exposure to wines and career opportunities are brighter overseas, but the Indian market continues to grow. At some point, I see myself returning and working here.” Indian sommeliers are leaning towards gleaning more knowledge from the infinite realm that is wine rather than just a notch on the CV. From the time that the word sommelier was unknown to the trade, it is commonplace in the wine ecosystem in India. More young aspirants are joining the grind and soon Kamal Malik MS should have company. Most stakeholders are headed in the right direction, when not guided by self-motivated individuals, and are on board as investments in wine education will be required to prepare more professionals. Brand promotions are no longer the key to open the door to wine listings. The thriving era of the Indian sommelier might be around the bend. L Bhisham Mansukhani has been a wines and spirits journalist for over 15 years and volunteers with Jai Singh student and rural communities. Liquid 41

nashik A little over two decades ago, I chose a career in wine around the time that wine in India was emerging on its foundation. I have been fortunate to visit so many wineries and vineyards in both the old our itinerary. I was joined by my colleague in Maldives, Jan Spener from Slovakia and dear friends, Ritu and Rajiv Singhal. world and new world – and in both hemispheres – but Information in the public domain about wine in India wine country in India had remained elusive. has always been a bit clouded by the data – Indians When my wife Sajitha was planning a sightseeing trip consume only some tablespoons of wine per year. for our son Samar to Ajanta-Ellora Caves, I seized this My friends in the industry always speak about how opportunity to add Nashik, the wine capital of India, to difficult the Indian market is. Nashik India’s Wine Capital 42 Liquid

nashik A pivotal shift in the varietal selection is needed — one needs to move past the ‘famous international varietals only’ approach. I approached this trip with an open mind. I expected to see Indians at cellar doors drinking Indian wines. But I was so pleasantly surprised to see the celebration and excitement – a mela – around wines. I saw groups of friends, couples and families – even three generations – enjoying their chosen wine at the very source. For me, this pivotal shift in thinking added a new dimension to responsible drinking. On this visit, I managed to cover some main wineries: VALLONNÉ VINEYARDS The first winery on the agenda – in fact the first Indian personified. His knowledge of his surroundings, the vineyards and winemaking made me confident that winery I have ever visited – I am definitely not proud there is a bright viticultural future. I learnt about the that it took me so long. Owner Shailendra Pai believed geography and topography of the planted area. that making high quality wine was possible in Nashik At the tasting in the tank room, I was offered plenty and chose the spot on which he and his team toiled hard to make this a reality. of interesting wines that constituted a wide range. I thought that some experiments in winemaking had The operation of this boutique winery is managed worked better than others, but there were some by Sanket Gawand who is an example of passion exciting ones there. Liquid 43

nashik I expected to see Indians at cellar doors drinking Indian wines. But I was so pleasantly surprised to see the celebration and excitement — a mela — around wines. Shendage led the tasting which covered the large range and barrel/ tank samples. My thoughts: they have something exciting on hand with the Viognier wines, and that the best representation of the terroir came from the Art Collection wines which were clean and crisp, well made, and fruit forward. I was alerted to the complexities of operating wineries GROVER ZAMPA in India. With operations in two Indian states – I was grateful that despite the heavy renovation, I Karnataka and Maharashtra – there could be an was able to see what one of the oldest wineries of option of blending wines covering different parcels to India had up its sleeve. The winemakers led by the make a multi-regional South-east Australia style to get flying Frenchman, Michel Rolland experiment with the kind of consistency of say, Yellow Tail or Jacob’s stainless steel, clay amphora, new and old oak casks Creek. This is not possible because only juice or and ‘foudre’ – maybe a bit too many options, but grapes can be trucked – wine cannot be transported Indian wines are in that phase. The winemaker Abhijit across state borders. 44 Liquid

nashik CHANDON INDIA I believe that this cellar door is a very important service French giant LVMH invested in India as one of the to Indian wine. It should be a lesson for wineries in six countries in the world where they make Chandon other states to follow. sparkling wine drawing on their know-how of making sparkling wines for over 250 years. Walking through the vineyards on site, I was excited to see different vines – Shiraz, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir side by side, a bit like Languedoc Roussillon in France. All wineries visited, except Chandon, make a lot of wines under different ranges. This can be expected because wine is still in an experimental stage and wineries are trying to see which grapes, styles and techniques showcase the best of the very unique I expected the wines to be in a different league – and Nashik terroir. they didn’t disappoint. Of the four sparkling wines Overall, I will remember this trip for many years. I found tasted with Amrut Vare, the rosé stood out as well made and balanced. India is the only country where Chandon makes a still wine – a red shiraz. ‘Aurva’ surprised me with its silkiness and elegance. It was well made with no rough edges. some very interesting things happening. Some good wines, but more is desired. I felt that the key is to understand the land and how to work it. A pivotal shift in the varietal selection is needed – one needs to move past the ‘famous SULA VINEYARDS international varietals only’ approach. The varietals The pioneer who put Nashik on the world wine map need to retain freshness in local conditions, work and the market leader who dominates the industry. with heavy summer rains and a dry winter when the Amritpal Singh guided the vineyard and winery tour crop is actually produced – all to yield high quality before leading a tasting of the wide range on the fruit. A lighter approach to ageing techniques, skin balcony overlooking the vineyards. Despite such a maceration etc. might help emphasize better what large operation, Sula has made some really exciting the land offers. Remember that great wines are made wines and has understood the palate of its Indian when vines do majority of the work. I am certain that customer very well. All the wines were clean, precise the hard working and smart people on the ground will and very drinkable, with some highlights. soon figure out the ‘Indian way’ of making great wines. Liquid 45

nashik I hail from a village in north India, so I am familiar with dirt tracks, unfinished connector roads and everything else that follows once you leave the main city. Reminiscing the simplicity of the villages on the way to the wineries, the agricultural landscape – the grain fields dominating and fruit orchards are also a reminder that grape is still a fringe crop and within, a larger part of the grape grown is not for wine but for the table. Probably another reason why wine doesn’t find favour with the government. Collectively, Indian wineries will need to ensure that wines join the GST regime for better supply chain co- ordination. It is a bit ironic that the Indian government is advocating free trade across international borders but have strict walled borders between the 36 provinces. India may be slightly behind on the wine scene, but I am sure collective wisdom will lead it to higher distinction. The eureka moment of Indian wines is coming soon… If you have not been to Nashik yet (I admit, I was very late), please do visit. My highlight wines, in no particular order: Chandon Rosé NV Aurva Shiraz 2021 Grover Zampa Art Collection Viognier 2023 Sula Vineyards The Source Grenache Rosé 2023 The Source Chenin Blanc Reserve 2023 Rāsā Syrah 2022 Vallonné Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2023 Anokhee Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Anokhee Syrah 2018 L Kamal Malik MS, India’s first Master Sommelier, is based in the Maldives and shares his love for wine, travel, and culture through training and conversation. 46 Liquid

An initiative of the

portugal I f the wine world is about show pony pageantry, Porto is an underdog. In my wine journey, I was not affected The Douro appellation is divided in three categories that by this wine – I was almost nonchalant – until I visited is Douro Superior, in the middle is the rugged terrain of this UNESCO World Heritage region. Its picture perfect Cima Corgo and the third subregion - Baixo Corgo is vineyards and sweet nectar took my breath away. near the ocean and has a flatter and accessible terrain. DOURO VALLEY REGIONS HARSH TERRAIN There are no vineyards for miles around Porto. The best The first glimpse of vines appears about 100 km way to absorb the beauty of the region is to follow the upstream near Peso da Régua, marked unmistakably river upstream, winding past two dams, and admire its by a giant cutout of Sandeman Port. As the journey unique mountainous terrain. The valley is a sub-tropical continues toward the central Cima Corgo around the paradise exploding with citrus trees, terraced gardens, tiny town of Pinhão, the landscape becomes even and vineyards clinging to steep and treacherous slopes. more breathtaking. The neatly trimmed vineyard rows cover the entire length of the river. The furthest inland Oporto The Port Gateway 48 Liquid

portugal following the mountainsides resemble Japanese karesansui gardens, where gravel is raked with meticulous care across a barren landscape on hard granite slopes. The air here is naturally sweet, filled with bright sunshine and the freshness of the flowing river. Port is a testament to the human spirit and its undying resilience. Every mountain here bears witness to sheer labour, sweat, and passion. In the early days before industrialization, granite was drilled by hand to plant vines. One stone was laid after another to construct No wonder that vines thrive in this extremely difficult terrain. It is here that critics claim that most of the highquality ports come from. PORT MAKING This hilly region is one of Europe’s three oldest officially demarcated wine regions – classified in 1753. The protected appellation of Port is primarily made from red grapes such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao and Tinta Roriz. White Port can be found made from white grapes such as Rabigato and Malvasia. The valley is a sub-tropical paradise exploding with citrus trees, terraced gardens, and vineyards clinging to steep and treacherous slopes. Liquid 49

portugal In the early days before industrialization, granite was drilled by hand to plant vines. One stone was laid after another to construct the terraced vineyards. SOME STYLES This fermented wine was then aged in barrels for varying lengths of time depending on the style desired by the house. Grape varieties, duration of crushing and ageing process created the different types of Port. Ruby is deep coloured and carries a fruit forward profile. Tawny is a classic oxidative and nuttier style aged in barrel for certain period of time. Rosé is the terraced vineyards. Men and women climbed and relatively new and is meant to enjoyed young. descended these mountains daily to tend their plots. HISTORY Vines were looked after in the fierce cold and wet In the 18th century, the Spanish saw rising conflict weather by workers who would put ponchos made between the English and French. Changing geopolitical from thatched hay to protect themselves. Grapes were hand harvested and then carried by porters or donkeys. Traditionally the grapes were crushed by humans with their feet in large open vats called lagars. When the ideal sugar level was achieved, a brandy or distilled grape alcohol was added midway through the fermentation to kill the yeasts and preserve the wine’s natural sweetness. This wine was transported by long nosed flat belly boats called ‘rabelos’, on a dangerous and often mortal journey to Vila de Gaia. 50 Liquid

portugal alliances brought the English and Portuguese Crown possession and the harsher the terroir and the more closer. The English increased tax on French wines sweat poured into it, the sweeter the nectar. This and concessions were granted to facilitate the hardship defines the singular reality of the Douro trade between Portugal and England. Opportunistic Valley. Here, the communion between man and merchants seized the moment, offering Port as a vineyard reaches its highest point—no pun intended. substitute for French wines to thirsty English nobles. Its increasing demand saw many English merchants carve out a conclave in Oporto and monopolise the Port trade. AN ICON Port’s evolution can be credited to a lady: Dona Antónia Ferreira. Widowed at 33, she assumed control of her family’s empire in a male-dominated world. AUGUSTO RED RESERVE A seductive deep orange-red colour and bursting with red fruits like cherries and black berries. It still hovers on its young primary flavours even after 8 years of ageing in wooden barrels. She invested heavily in the region, its vineyards, and RAMOS PINTOS TAWNY above all, its people. She championed innovation, new RP20 bottling methods, and vineyard improvements, but her A sun kissed tawny red decisions were always guided by humanity. During coloured the phylloxera crisis, when families faced ruin, Dona Aged for 20 years in barrels with vibrance. bought estates to keep them afloat, built hospitals – the ageing and primary for local communities, and expanded plantings. fruit are balanced. After the initial burst Her driving desire was always to serve the greater good. Today, her successors manage one of the few Portuguese family-owned estates – many others were acquired over the years by the British. Viticulturists and winemakers are immensely proud of their terroir. For them, this land is their prized of apricots, the aromas will transport you to a Goan bakery with bursting sweet caramel, almond, coffee and vanilla. L Saket Joshi, a wine sciences graduate from Auckland University, is maître de chai et chef de culture in a Saint Emilion estate and has worked in 3 continents. Liquid 51

bordea ux Lafleur’s Bold Leap Climate-Driven Revolution I n a move that has sent ripples through the wine world, the Guinaudeau family of Château Lafleur has regulatory constraints. Their choice to step outside the announced a historic departure from the prestigious marketing stunt. It’s a declaration of independence, appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux. Beginning with driven by necessity and guided by conviction. the 2025 vintage, the six wines of Societe Civile du Chateau Lafleur will be designated and labelled as ‘vin de France’. This decision, while ‘strong’, is not a rejection of tradition – it’s a courageous response to the existential Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system is not a A VINTAGE FORGED IN FIRE The 2025 growing season was one of the most extreme in memory. Rainfall in March was down 73%, followed by months of drought and scorching temperatures. In the vineyard, fruit exposed to direct threat of climate change. sunlight touched nearly 50°C. Vines faced severe For over 150 years, Château Lafleur has been Yet, through years of research and adaptation, the synonymous with excellence, expression of terroir, Lafleur team was prepared. They implemented a series and innovation. But in recent years, the accelerating of innovative techniques that defied convention but pace of climate disruption has forced the family to saved the vintage: 1. Reduced canopy height to limit rethink everything – from vineyard management to transpiration; 2. Increased foliage density to shade 52 Liquid water stress, and the risk of crop failure loomed large.

bordea ux fruit and preserve acidity; 3. Subterranean irrigation using sustainable water sources; 4. Early-season interventions to mitigate stress before irreversible damage occurred. The result? The grapes this year are of exceptional quality – small berries with vibrant aromatics, balanced acidity, and moderate alcohol levels. A vintage not just rescued, but reimagined. INNOVATION MEETS REGULATION Despite their success, Lafleur’s adaptive methods remain incompatible with current AOC regulations. The frustration is palpable in their open letters: “We now know how to adapt, but under the current regulations, we cannot.” The AOC system, designed to protect tradition and terroir, has become a barrier to innovation. Lafleur’s experience reveals a painful irony: of canopy shading to protect fruit from sunburn, the very rules meant to safeguard quality now prevent significant canopy height reductions to reduce water winemakers from responding to the realities of climate loss and flexible irrigation policies with sustainable change. sourcing and early-season deployment. These aren’t The Guinaudeaus have proposed some key reforms to modernize viticulture in the face of environmental stress such as lower planting densities tailored to theoretical suggestions – they’re proven strategies that saved the 2025 vintage. But the AOC rules, that prohibit any such action, ruled against. soil water reserves, authorization of mulching and A NEW CHAPTER, SAME SOUL full soil cover techniques to retain moisture, use By choosing vin de France, Lafleur gains the freedom to act swiftly and responsibly but this isn’t a break from heritage – it’s a reaffirmation of it. Lafleur has been defined by the same terroir since 1872. The same noble vine genetics, cultivated with care and precision and the same family, guided by humility, curiosity, and conviction. The Guinaudeau family remain committed to their five authorized local grape varieties. They reject the idea of introducing foreign cultivars, believing that true adaptation lies not in abandoning identity, but in evolving within it. Their philosophy is clear: terroir is not static. It is a living dialogue between nature and culture. And in the face of climate change, that dialogue must evolve. A VINTAGE OF CONVICTION As of late August, the 2025 harvest is already showing promise. Early tastings suggest a vintage of extraordinary character – one born not just of nature, Liquid 53

bordea ux what defines quality, authenticity, and tradition in an era of environmental upheaval. How can the reality of climate change be faced with precision and efficiency? In the words of the Guinaudeaus: “Together we shape the future, while remaining true to ourselves. The perennity of our vineyards, the quality and the identity of our wines – the future – is assured.” Château Lafleur’s bold move is more than a label change – it’s a philosophical pivot. It’s a reminder that climate change isn’t a distant threat – it’s here, reshaping the landscape of viticulture in real time. The Guinaudeaus have chosen courage over comfort, innovation over inertia. And in doing so, they’ve opened a new chapter – not just for Lafleur, but for all who believe that great wine must evolve to survive. As the wine world watches closely, one thing is certain: the 2025 vintage of Château Lafleur will be remembered not just for its quality, but for the conviction that made but of foresight and resilience. This is not a story of loss, it’s a story of transformation. Lafleur’s decision to leave the AOC system is a call to action for the entire wine world – it challenges all stakeholders to rethink 54 Liquid it possible. L Sanghamitra Banik, an Indian-origin wine and finance professional in Bordeaux, founded Winesutra, linking French and Indian partners for growth.

wine Pouring Green Keeping Vineyards Healthy I n today’s world, sustainability is more than just a buzzword, it’s become a responsible movement. For some winemakers, sustainable viticultural practices have become so significant, that they’ve Sustainable wineries have become an optimal choice become advocates in the culture of environmentalism. for consumers who value environmental conservation. The quality of the wine; its basic structure, aromas, As consumers become more cognizant of the and flavours is unescapably linked to chemicals in environmental influence of their choices, the demand for organic and biodynamic options have amplified greatly. Sustainable production offers a path forward that is economically viable, environmentally responsible, and the composition of the soil. Organic viticulture uses natural methods for pest control, fertilization, and soil management, avoiding the use of synthetic chemicals. Biodynamic viticulture takes a more holistic approach, seeing the vineyard as an interconnected ecosystem socially equitable. It is about making thoughtful decisions and incorporating practices such as the use of from grape to glass, warranting that the land remains biodynamic preparations and lunar calendar-based healthy for generations to come. planting. Both organic and biodynamic viticulture 56 Liquid

wine aim to endorse biodiversity, improve soil health, and decrease the environmental footprint of wine production. Even in packaging, more and more wineries are opting for materials from sustainable sources. Sustainable wine has become a worldwide culture and is generating thriving and self-maintaining ecosystems. Backed by a growing and diligent network of organizations that ensure accountability and transparency, many wineries are implementing these changes. As the industry evolves towards a healthier earth, let’s explore some interesting labels that have made wonder waves. BENZIGER FAMILY WINERY (USA) Widely recognized as a leader in sustainability, their wine portfolio is certified sustainable, organic, or biodynamic. Biodynamics treats the vineyard as a single, self-sustaining ecosystem and goes beyond conventional organic farming by employing methods to foster biodiversity and soil health by integrating Electric tractor at Bodega Torres animals like Scottish Highland cattle and sheep into their vineyard management. For natural pest control, they maintain a large insectary garden with a variety of flora and fauna to attract beneficial insects and birds. Together with composting, special homeopathic teas are prepared to nourish the soil. The winery recycles over one million gallons of water annually into its reclamation ponds, which is then used for irrigation, helping create a habitat for other wildlife. At Benziger, community too is an important vertical. Their educational vineyard tours teach visitors how sustainability enhances wine quality, making their merlots and cabernet sauvignons taste even better knowing the ethos behind them. BODEGA TORRES (SPAIN) One of the responsibility world’s leaders having invested in environmental considerably in From grape to glass, making thoughtful decisions ensures the land remains healthy for generations to come. Liquid 57

wine creating insect hotels in its vineyards. They practice regenerative agriculture methods, such as cover crops, to improve soil health, increase biodiversity, and sequester carbon. Telmont stopped producing gift boxes and other outer packaging to reduce its carbon footprint. In partnership with glassmaker Verallia, they developed the world’s lightest champagne bottle, which weighs just 800 grams, and reduces the carbon footprint by 4% per bottle. Another interesting campaign was ‘193,000 shades of green’, the winery uses bottles with slight colour variations, avoiding the waste of energy and resources that would be required to achieve a uniform shade. CHÂTEAU MARIS (FRANCE) Considered one of the greenest wineries in Europe; they are a leader in sustainable viticulture, earning numerous awards and certifications for its pioneering environmental and social initiatives. Certified biodynamic and organic, they built the world’s first hempcrete winery, which is carbon-negative and built entirely from hemp bricks, which are breathable, highly insulating, and biodegradable. The unique double-walled design and insulation maintain a stable reducing carbon emissions, using solar energy, and experimenting with drought-resistant grape varieties. To combat rising temperatures, Torres is recovering ancestral grape varieties like Forcada and Gonfaus that are naturally better adapted to heat and drought. An acclaimed Transition Plan outlining 14 sciencebased initiatives to accelerate its decarbonization efforts from the vineyard to the consumer is followed. In a pioneering circular economy project, Torres captures the CO2 produced during wine fermentation and reuses it as an inert gas in the cellar. Their wines gleam in both quality and innovation. Familia Torres aims to be a net-zero emissions winery before 2040, ahead of the industry-wide goal of 2050. CHAMPAGNE TELMONT (FRANCE) They have a radical and comprehensive sustainability plan, called ‘In the Name of Mother Nature’, that covers the entire production process, from farming to packaging and shipping. To enrich the ecosystem, the winery has been planting thousands of shrubs and 58 Liquid

wine The quality of wine – its basic structure, aromas, and flavours – is inescapably linked to the composition of the soil. cellar temperature year-round without air conditioning, which drastically reduces energy consumption. The winery’s efforts go far beyond standard organic practices, encompassing the entire winemaking process, from regenerative farming in the vineyards to a carbon-negative building and sustainable shipping. landscape. This is beautifully illustrated on their labels. Their winery is organic and focusses on harmonious co-existence with the environment, integrating vineyards with livestock farming and protecting the native fauna of the La Mancha region. Changes to the harvest cycle, such as moving it to the summer, have been implemented to protect the breeding season of the red partridge. Their syrah-based wines from Minervois are not only an oenophilic dream but also produced with deep respect and gratitude for nature. DEHESA DE LUNA (SPAIN) They are committed to environmental sustainability through practices such as using solar energy from its own photovoltaic park, implementing water saving irrigation systems as well as promotions biodiversity within its protected Mediterranean forest estate protecting species like imperial eagles and great bustards, and integrating the winery into the Liquid 59

wine FROG’S LEAP WINERY (NAPA VALLEY, USA) Certified organic since 1988, they pioneered organic farming and dry farming methods. With the focus on building healthy, living soil through composting, cover crops, and crop rotation, the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides is drastically reduced. The company believes that sustainable practices, especially building soil health, are essential for producing great wines that express the true terroir. These practices significantly conserve water, saving enough each year to fill almost forty Olympic-size swimming pools. This winery too, maintains biodiversity in and around its vineyards by committing its land to native habitats, edible gardens, fruit trees, and olive orchards. Emphasizing solar energy, they housed the first LEED-certified building in the California wine industry, which uses a geothermal heating and cooling system. YEALANDS ESTATE (NEW ZEALAND) Located in the stunning Awatere Valley and operating with the motto ‘Think Boldly, Tread Lightly’, this winery uses a 1,300-panel solar array which is one of the largest in the country, three on-site wind turbines, and sustainable farming techniques to minimize its footprint. The estate uses miniature Babydoll and Merino sheep to manage grass and weeds, reducing the need for tractors and pesticides. Chickens are also used for pest control. The winery’s 30-year biodiversity plan includes restoring waterways, creating wetlands, and planting over a million native trees and plants. The goal is to build a healthier, more resilient ecosystem that requires fewer chemical inputs. Their sauvignon blanc and pinot gris wines showcase the bright, zesty style that New Zealand is so famous for. Yealands aims to become carbon positive by 2050, with an interim goal of reducing emissions by 50% by 2030. L Xenia Jamshyd Lam has a Masters in Gastronomy from the University of Gastronomic Sciences, Pollenzo. Travelling, writing and art are her passions. 60 Liquid

la unch This limited-edition, groundbreaking sake was launched in Japan in 2023 as a flagship brand of the Takara Shuzo Group’s Shirakabegura brewery which is in the Nada region of the Hyogo Prefecture. Brewed with Yamadanishiki rice from Hyogo using the traditional kimoto method, the sake has been acclaimed for its craftsmanship. It also embodies sustainability – the makers have achieved a 90% reduction in methane emissions during cultivation through close collaboration with specialist farmers. The name N•End (然土, ‘nendo’) combines the characters for nature and soil, reflecting Takara Shuzo’s philosophy of honouring the land while creating bold, rice-driven sake with depth, complexity, and authenticity. Unlike the trend toward highly polished daiginjo styles, N•End embraces the principle of ‘less is not always more’, preserving the natural richness of rice. N•End Takara Shuzos A t the global launch in London this summer, Sho Chiku Bai Shirakabegura ‘N•End’ sake was unveiled by the Takara Shuzo International Co. at the Royal Automobile Club, Pall Mall. Mr. Kenichi Ohashi MW, the only person in the world to hold both prestigious titles of Master of Sake and Kenichi Ohashi MW & Rie Yoshitake Master of Wine and the most respected authority in This innovative approach has already won international Japan, was chosen to lead and present the specially acclaim. In 2025, N•End received the Trophy at the planned London events with Ms. Rie Yoshitake, a Sake International Wine Challenge (IWC) Sake Competition, Samurai who was recently honoured with the Order of one of the world’s most prestigious sake awards. the Rising Sun, Gold and Silver Rays by the Government N•End sake is full-bodied with about 16-17% alcohol. of Japan for her work to promote Sake internationally. It has a complex and elegant aroma that unfolds with Mr. Ohashi guided a masterclass for invited traders floral notes. The flavour profile is rich yet mellow and and journalists, and a specially curated lunch of N•End has umami highlights. sake carefully paired with European food. This was also Takara Shuzo’s N•End is now set to redefine premium attended by some Members of Parliament. sake on the global stage. L Liquid 61

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For over 135 years, Stölzle Lausitz has been a global leader in crafting high-quality, lead-free crystal glasses. Founded in 1889 in Weißwasser, Germany, the company has mastered the art of glassmaking, evolving from mouth-blown techniques to advanced machine production. Renowned for their seamless pulled stem glasses that appeal like mouth-blown, Stölzle Lausitz creates glasses of the highest precision, quality, and timeless elegance - made in Germany. Trusted by top sommeliers, chefs, and connoisseurs in over 120 countries, their glasses not only enhance the taste of wine but also elevate the entire drinking experience. As the official glass partner of the ASI, Stölzle Lausitz proudly shares its expertise in premium glassware with the world of sommellerie. stoelzle-lausitz.com

event A FINE Toast to Diplomacy T he FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table, co-hosted by FINE Publishing India’s Chief India – India’s first wine magazine approved by the Executive Ritu Singhal and The Lodhi New Delhi’s This year, Ambassadors and High Commissioners General Manager Abhimanyu Lodha, celebrated from 12 wine-producing nations – Australia, Austria, the 14th anniversary of FINE Wine & Champagne Brazil, 64 Liquid Government of India. Champagne, Chile, France, Hungary,

event Luxembourg, New Zealand, Portugal, Romania, and the United Kingdom – participated in this unique celebration of world wine. Each Head of Mission brought a presented a specially selected wine from their country. Notably, Australia, Champagne, and Portugal have participated in every one of the 12 editions of the FINE Table. Friends of FINE and wine gathered at Perbacco, the Ambassadors and High Commissioners from 12 wine-producing nations participated in this unique celebration of world wine, each presenting a specially selected bottle from their country. fine dining restaurant at The Lodhi, New Delhi, for a gastronomic experience that was carefully crafted by The Lodhi team. Ritu warmly welcomed all to “the most anecdotes – adding another dimension to the sensory sought-after wine evening on the diplomatic calendar, experience. where geographical borders are blurred by wine.” Abhimanyu affirmed that The Lodhi were delighted to collaborate with FINE to present a timeless toast to such fine wines from across the world. An exquisite six-course menu, crafted by Executive Chef Vijay Thapliyal and his culinary team, featured signature dishes that were beautifully plated on Bernardaud porcelain. The sommeliers dealt with the diversity of the wines and paired them with each course, ensuring that the wines were in perfect condition and poured in the right sequence. As their THE PAIRINGS With canapés. ‘Domaine de l’Etat Chardonnay Grand Premier Cru 2022’ from Luxembourg presented by Ambassador Peggy Frantzen – rich, full-bodied and well-integrated with lime and a touch of vanilla. On its own. Champagne Challiol & Charmetant Brut NV presented by Ambassador of Champagne to India, Rajiv Singhal – elegance and finesse, with persistent fine bubbles, lush pear and apple flavours with hints of spice and a lingering finish. wine was poured into the glasses, the Heads of With Burrata in Bloom (v) or Burrata with Parma Ham. Mission rose to defend it with engaging stories and Sharpham Dart Valley Reserve Madeleine Angevine Liquid 65

event Pinot Blanc 2022 from the United Kingdom presented by High Commissioner Lindy Cameron – ripe and rounded with peach, pear, and yellow apple and a touch of salinity – overall easy-drinking. With Gold Leaf Saffron Risotto (v). Pfaffl Hund Grüner Veltliner vom Haus 2022 from Austria presented by Ambassador Katharina Wieser – opulent and layered, with orange and pineapple notes, complex minerality, and a hint of pepper. And Valdivieso Valley Selection Pinot Noir Gran Reserva 2019 from Chile presented by Ambassador Juan Angulo – charming and wellbalanced, with notes of strawberries, subtle nuttiness, and a touch of spice. By themselves. Marchese Vinhos & Vinhedos Syrah Premium 2022 from Brazil presented by Ambassador Kenneth Nobrega – intense and earthy oozing plum and cherry flavours with hints of liquorice and powerful tannins but balanced acidity. 2 Milenii Feteasca Neagra Rosu Sec from Romania presented by Ambassador Sena Latif – rooted in tradition showing blackberry and plum notes with hints of clove, firm tannins, and a classic medium-bodied structure. With Forest Fold (v) or Summer Layers. Te Mata Awatea Cabernets Merlot 2019 from New Zealand presented 66 Liquid

event Australia, Champagne, and Portugal have participated in every one of the 12 editions of the FINE Table. by Acting High Commissioner Matthew Ayers – high energy and youthful with abundant dark berries layered over cedar wood and a touch of smokiness. And Henschke Keyneton Euphonium Barossa 2015 from Australia presented by High Commissioner Philip Green – aristocratic with plum, minerals and herbal notes accentuated by spicy tannins and silky texture. With Roman Reverie (v) or Ocean’s Embrace. Prats & Symington Prazo de Roriz Douro 2019 from Portugal presented by Ambassador Joao Almeida and Economic & Trade Counsellor Miguel Crespo – vibrant cherry, raspberry, and blackberry notes with touch of violet and fine tannins. And Château Lynch-Moussas by Cultural Counsellor Mariann Erdo vivacious and Grand Cru Pauillac 2009 from France presented by voluptuous shouting out tropical fruits and candied Head of Business France Estelle David – rich and fruity citrus with a perfect balance. with ripe cassis and touches of forest floor with supple tannins and a herbal finish. A guest remarked, “This was a wine dinner so perfectly crafted that Michelin took another tyre and Bacchus With the Chef’s Special dessert. Disznóko Tokaji blushed!” The FINE guests enjoyed the evening – Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2015 from Hungary – presented glasses were clinked and toasts were raised! L Liquid 67

Photos: Jolly Thompson event A Flavour Festival Pairings rewritten T he ‘Pays d’Oc Flavour Festival & Sommeliers’ Challenge’ in London this summer brought for the invited sommeliers, chefs, wine trade and together global cuisines with the versatile wines from pairing adventures with the specially chosen dishes the region. This masterclass at The Broadcaster in from five continents. White City, curated by Ruchira Neotia of Ruchira’s media to explore Pays d’Oc wines and craft their own Table in collaboration with Pays d’Oc, represented Ruchira led the masterclass, infused with a spirit of by Sarah Hargreaves, turned rules for wine and food discovery and inquiry, alongside esteemed industry pairings on their head. Eschewing a traditional tasting veterans. Guests mapped flavours and tackled pairing format, this challenge was an interactive playground challenges highlighting Pays d’Oc’s unique terroir 68 Liquid

event – spanning mountains, plateaus, and coastal soils shaped by diverse winds, generous sunshine, and an impressive roster of 58 grape varietals. THE WINE PLAYGROUND The Pays d’Oc wine region in the south of France covers a large vine growing surface of 110,000 hectares and has a history of bold innovation – which this afternoon was an example of – its distinctive climatic advantage is coupled with progressive philosophy. The winemakers are given the freedom to innovate. The bottles are labelled with varietals, which are easier to relate to. The wines are subject to a rigorous quality control regime (with 100% of its wines tasted by experts) – every bottle comes with a guarantee of reliability and expression. Guests found wines matching every palate and price point – offering a staggering value for money proposition, even at the premium end. Some attendees said that they would Guests found wines matching every palate and price point – offering a staggering value for money proposition, even at the premium end. reconsider their wine lists, specially the by-the-glass options. A FESTIVAL OF FLAVOUR Five renowned chefs were invited, and they showcased their signature dishes. Liquid 69

event Shoulder with Black Pepper and Kachampuli Vinegar; and a melt-in-the-mouth Lamb Galouti Kebab. Lalo Yishima from Mexico brought Charcoal-Grilled Chicken and Caramelised Plantain Skewers with cocoa laced Mole; Green Aguachile Tostada with Chilmole Emulsion and Salsa Macha; and a ChardWrapped Tamale with Oaxaca Cheese and Guajillo. Vanessa Doan focussed on Asian flavours, serving Vietnamese Hanoi Spring Roll (Nem rán) with Pork and Wood Ear Mushrooms; Pad Krapao with Minced Beef, Thai Holy Basil and Sichuan Pepper sauce; and Jokbal – Slow braised Pork with Kimchi and Fiery Samjang. Ronish Gurung ran a live Japanese sushi station with Salmon Roll, vegetarian Kanpyo, and Nigiris: Hamachi (Yellowtail) and Tuna. Opeoluwa Odutayo represented Africa, offering Plantain Croquettes with Roasted Red Pepper Mayo; PAIRING RULES The afternoon’s second act unfolded as guests moved to the interactive ‘Flavour Lab’. The invited chefs Fonio Salad with Butternut Squash, Pomegranate and manned their stations, and each offered three dishes Sumac Labneh; and freshly grilled Suya meat skewers (freshly prepared) that captured core regional flavours with a choice of Senegalese, Ayamase or Red Kaane dishes, inviting attendees to experiment pairings with sauces. any wine in real time. Avi Shasidhara tackled the breadth of India with This hands-on format fostered lively dialogue, inspiring Papadi Chaat with Mint and Tamarind Chutney, sommeliers and chefs to rethink pairing rules. Ruchira tomato and pomegranate; slow-cooked Coorg Pork emphasised, “Traditional wine pairing rules were 70 Liquid

event Traditional wine pairing rules were created around Euro-centric classics... we really need to think outside the box for bold flavour families from other continents. created around Euro-centric classics… we really need to think outside the box for bold flavour families from other continents.” Fresh, high-acid whites worked well with meaty creamy dishes, while lightly chilled reds surprised with spicy salads. Some standouts: Viranel’s Alicante Bouchet – a rare varietal – with tuna nigiri and wasabi. Chocolate-laced mole taco and Grenache Blanc. Fiery and umami Pad Krapao with the superb orange (skin contact) Yin Yang by Domaine Sauzet. Ruchira was bold and provocative – she excluded Rieslings from the tasting. “When depth of flavours and spices appear, everyone defaults to Riesling. In a room with Master Sommeliers and Masters of Wine, we can’t be boring. We’re here to shake things up.” Her message landed: this festival became a blueprint for the future of flavour, wine and hospitality. L Liquid 71

event New World Wines Exploring Blind A ‘New World Blind Wine Tasting’ was hosted by Nicholas McCaffrey, Deputy High Commissioner of Australia to India at the Henry Lawson Club on the grounds of the Australian High Commission. His Saint Clair 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough, New Zealand Tawse 2019 Riesling – Niagara Peninsula, Canada colleagues, the Deputy Heads of Mission from New Voyager Estate 2023 Chardonnay – Margaret River, Zealand, USA, Canada and South Africa, participated Australia to represent the major New World wine countries. Tuba Yargıç De Wilde, who calls herself a wine explorer, anchored the afternoon. The concept was simple but engaging: five captains Wente 2020 Pinot Noir, Riva Ranch Vineyard – Monterey, USA Ujva 2022 Pinotage Reserve – Western Cape, South were tasked with choosing a bottle from their Africa homeland. They formed their team with five guests – The bottles were wrapped carefully in several layers diplomats, colleagues, friends, and wine enthusiasts to mask any possible identification and poured into – whose mission was to score the wine and more challengingly, identify both the grape variety and the origin of the wines, all without the benefit of seeing the labels. the special tasting glasses that were placed on the tasting mat. The blind tasting revealed just how tricky blind judging can be. While the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Canadian Riesling offered their The line-up reflected the remarkable diversity of New classic aromatic signatures – bright citrus and passion World terroirs through single varietals: fruit for Marlborough and unmistakable kerosene or 72 Liquid

event discovery. For many, this was a rare opportunity to taste five different grapes and regions side by side, offering a snapshot of what makes New World wines so dynamic and exciting. From the cool breezes of Marlborough and Monterey to the coastal paradise of Margaret River, rugged landscapes of South Africa and the limestone-rich soils of the Niagara Peninsula, each wine told the story of its place of origin. The success of the evening was not just in the wines but also in the spirit of connection it fostered. Blind tastings strip away preconceived notions of brand and label, allowing conversation to flow freely around petroleum in the Niagara Peninsula, the warmerclimate Australian Chardonnay and American Pinot Noir introduced complexity, oak, and subtle spice aroma, structure, and flavour. It created an atmosphere where seasoned wine lovers and casual drinkers alike could engage, learn, and most importantly enjoy notes that tested participants’ palates. The South themselves. African Pinotage, with its bold dark fruit, smoky As glasses were raised, Nick thanked everyone for undertones, and earthy finish, stood out. participating in the fun. There was a shared sense The tasting was as competitive as it was convivial – that this event had sparked something special. there was much discussion, laughter, and spirited With its combination of education, competition, and debate within the teams. Each team scored the wine, camaraderie, the ‘New World Wine Blind Tasting’ and some were precise to the decimal! Tuba and is well on its way to becoming a cherished tradition her team had a system to tally the scores to identify the winning wine – the Ujva 2022 Pinotage Reserve among this circle. from South Africa, a wine that impressed with both Cheers to good wine, good company, and many more character and balance. DHOM Crowley accepted the blind tastings to come. L first prize for his chosen wine. The teams had called out the wines and the tally revealed that two teams – Australia and New Zealand – had correctly identified four wines (both grape and country). Australia were declared winners because they got the grape of the fifth wine correct, and were awarded the special prize of a Spiegelau decanter and wine glasses, a fitting gift for those who had proven their tasting skills. Beyond the friendly rivalry, the evening highlighted the joy of Liquid 73

event Sake Pan Asian Pairings “A n Evening of Soulful Conversations” was hosted by Meena Bhatia, Vice President & General Manager of Le Meridien New Delhi at the newly launched pan Asian restaurant and bar XO & Mi @ Le Belvédère for a group of women leaders, diplomats, and cultural influencers. Against the stunning backdrop of Delhi’s panoramic skyline, a sake pairing was presented by Mika Eoka, a certified sake expert who has been promoting sake in India in the recent years. She is also known as ‘Sake Mom’, inspired by the fermentation process, ‘Sake Ma’. Welcoming guests who were sipping on a Sandy Coast sake cocktail, Meena said, “We believe food and drink are not just about taste; they are about discovery, stories, and bringing people together. XO & Mì @ Le A toast was raised – ‘Kanpai’ – with Hakutsuru Awayuki Sparkling Sake that was paired with Tamarind Prawn & Glass Noodles (nv) or Chilled Tomato & Burrata. Cold Plates of Chilled Salmon Tartar or Avocado & Jalapeno Carpaccio (v) were paired with Princess Marriage – Ikus Shiro in a clear shot glass. Next, Chicken Coriander Dumpling or Shitake & Water Chestnut Dimsums (v) were paired with a warm vegan certified Sake Sandy Coast Classic Kasen that had distinct umami flavours and was served in a stoneware sake cup. Yakushika Yamadanishiki Honjozo Sake paired with a personal favourite – Tempura Asparagus Sushi Rolls (v), with the option of Torched Tuna Hot Hot Sushi Rolls. Belvédère is a space that is bold, vibrant, and rooted For the mains, Japanese Miso glazed vegetables or in exploration. The pairing of sake traditions and our Korean Bulgogi with grilled New Zealand lamb chops contemporary offerings celebrate friendships that (nv) was paired with the robust Masumi Kaya Junmai transcend borders.” Sake. Mika, dressed in a beautiful salmon pink Kimono The evening ended on a sweet note with Matcha introduced us to sake, which is made from polished rice Tiramisu and yeast, highlighting its umami flavours and health exchanged between the hosts and guests to meet benefits for the gut and skin. again soon – mata amiasu. L 74 Liquid before arigatos and sayonaras were

news India Shines at Asia’s 50 Best Bars reputation as India’s cocktail capital. Soka champions youthful creativity and a sense of discovery in every pour. ZLB23, housed in The Leela Palace, infuses Japanese aesthetics with contemporary flair, creating a space that’s equal parts tranquil and electric. Bar Spirit Forward follows narrative-led mixology and focusses on its strong local identity. Boilermaker Goa (No. 30) has an easy-going vibe, rumforward drinks and Goan soul that make it the choice for those who prefer their sophistication unpretentious. And the honours didn’t stop there. The 51-100 list had four more: Bar Outrigger Goa (No. 55), Sidecar New Delhi (No. 62), Bombay Canteen Mumbai (No. 69) and Hideaway Goa (No. 94) taking India’s total count to nine bars in the Top 100. Together, they represented India in full creative bloom. This unprecedented recognition signals an evolution from imitation to innovation and where India is leading the conversation on world class mixology: the focus on homegrown ingredients, indigenous spirits, and cultural nostalgia. Indian bars are now telling their own stories, one drink at a time. Asia’s 50 Best Bars celebrates the finest drinking destinations across the continent – places that define craftsmanship, creativity, and culture in a glass. Launched in 2016, this list is curated by over 300 industry experts, Indri Lights Up Las Vegas from bartenders to drinks journalists, and has grown to become the ultimate benchmark for excellence among bars in Asia. In the 2025 edition, Bar Leone Hong Kong was crowned Asia’s best, followed by Zest Seoul and Jigger & Pony Singapore. They were celebrated for mastery of balance and bold innovation. What’s exciting is that India made an extraordinary mark – five bars earned place of pride on this coveted list. Leading the charge in the Top 10 was Lair New Delhi (No. 8) – a sleek speakeasy that reimagines the art of indulgence through a sensory experience and understated glamour. Soka (No. 28), ZLB23 (No. 31) and Bar Spirit Forward (No. 37), all from Bengaluru, reflected the city’s growing At the 2025 Las Vegas Global Spirits Awards (LVGSA), Indri’s Diwali Collector’s Edition Marsala Cask was crowned Best World Whisky, earning a whopping 99.1 points out of 100. Distilled by Piccadily Distilleries in Indri, Haryana, this expression captures the distinctive terroir of the Yamuna Liquid 75

news river plain. Crafted from six-row Indian barley, matured in oak and Marsala casks, and bottled at cask strength (60% ABV), the resulting whisky bridges the warmth of the Indian plains and the sweet, nutty complexity of fortified wine from Sicily. On the nose one gets notes of candied orange, fig jam, honeycomb, layered with toasted almonds and cocoa. The palate unfolds in waves – toffee, red berries, gentle spice – finishing long and textured, like a Diwali spark that refuses to fade. The LVGSA is a blind-tasting competition judged by distillers, bartenders, buyers, media and educators from around the world. Each spirit is assessed solely on its liquid merits, such as appearance, aroma, palate, balance, and finish, eliminating bias and marketing influence. That Indri won this title twice in three years is extraordinary. “Indri is rewriting the Indian single malts story by proving that world-class and acclaimed whisky doesn’t need Scottish weather to be born,” said Shalini Sharma, Marketing Head at Piccadily Distilleries. “This win belongs not just to Indri, but to India.” This year’s results underline that sentiment. Four of the five finalists were Indian – the other three that made the finals were versions of GianChand Single Malts from the DeVans Modern Breweries in Jammu – Manshaa Peated, Signature Indian and Adambaraa Unpeated. In a field once dominated by the Scots and Japanese, Indian whiskies are finding acclaim. Indri’s triumph in Las Vegas is poetically timed – Diwali mirrored by a bottle that glows amber in the glass. For a nation long known as a consumer of whisky, Indri’s victory confirms that India no longer merely drinks the world’s best, it makes it. cleared by the Competition Commission of India marks a significant shift in India’s alcobev sector, signalling growing confidence in the domestic industry’s scale and ambition. The deal is valued at approximately L4,150 crore, which is one of the largest transactions ever in the Indian Made Foreign Liquor segment. Imperial Blue is among the top three whisky brands in India by volume, with annual sales of over 12 million cases, and is well known for its ‘Men Will Be Men’ advertising campaign. The brand enjoys strong recall among midsegment consumers and holds a commanding presence in both urban and semi-urban markets, supported by consistent visibility, wide distribution, and competitive pricing across key states. India is the second-largest market for Pernod Ricard and according to Alexandre Ricard, Pernod Ricard’s Chairman and CEO, ‘is a priority’. He confirmed that the sale was a strategic move to sharpen the group’s focus in India. “It fuels our ambition to succeed even further. We will continue to invest in India’s outstanding growth.” According to CEO Jean Touboul, Pernod Ricard India Pernod Ricard Sells Imperial Blue Whisky will be able to sharpen its focus on premiumization and The sale of Imperial Blue Whisky from French multinational Pernod Ricard to Indian spirits major Tilaknagar Industries that was inked in July and was recently Besides inheriting the brand’s loyal consumer base in 76 Liquid innovation. Tilaknagar Industries was founded in 1933 and has established a very strong legacy as a brandy powerhouse with its ‘millionaire’ brands – Mansion House and Courrier Napoleon. This ‘transformative’ acquisition catapults the company in India’s top five spirits producers by volume. states like Maharashtra, Uttar Pradesh, and Karnataka, Tilaknagar’s manufacturing footprint of 21 units across

news 12 states will be further strengthened by Imperial Blue’s bottling and distribution infrastructure. “We are excited to take Imperial Blue – one of India’s most trusted and admired brands – to new heights,” said Amit Dahanukar, Chairman and Managing Director of Tilaknagar Industries. To finance the acquisition, the company’s board has approved a preferential issue of securities worth L2,296 crore. After decades of global multinationals dominating the Indian spirits landscape, Indian companies are now stepping forward to lead the segment. As the barrels roll and the dust settles, Imperial Blue now has an Indian heart and Tilaknagar is raising the glass. Diageo India Acquires NAO Spirits provenance. The company’s flagship brand, Greater Than, holds the distinction of being India’s first craft gin, crafted from nine botanicals sourced from India and internationally. Hapusa, their premium offering, stands out as one of the few craft gins globally made with foraged Himalayan Juniper and unique botanicals. The portfolio expanded in 2024 with PIPA, an aged spiced rum crafted from jaggery spirit and matured in specially imported casks. Praveen Someshwar, MD and CEO of USL, explained that the acquisition “represents a pivotal step in exploring future growth opportunities in Indian craft spirits,” emphasizing his company’s commitment to meeting evolving consumer preferences through its Ventures Investment arm. The deal comes at a time when India’s premium spirits market is experiencing robust growth, with the craft spirits segment expanding rapidly due to rising disposable incomes in urban India. As consumers shift towards experimentation and casual drinking occasions, demand for local, yet authentic craft-oriented brands continues to rise. This acquisition aligns with India’s broader ‘Make in India’ initiative, showcasing how local craft brands can achieve global recognition while maintaining their Indian identity. NAO Spirits has emerged as a category leader, positioning itself well to capitalize on these trends alongside USL’s existing premium gin portfolio, which includes international brands like Tanqueray. Virmani will continue to lead NAO Spirits as part of the Diageo family. He said, “this acquisition by Diageo India is a powerful validation of something that we have always believed in – that India can create great world Diageo India – United Spirits Limited (USL) has acquired a majority controlling stake in NAO Spirits, the maker class craft spirits.” He emphasized that the brand’s DNA and innovative approach will remain unchanged. of premium Indian craft gin brands ‘Greater Than’ and The acquisition enables NAO Spirits to leverage ‘Hapusa’, for an enterprise value of L130 crore (US$15.2 USL’s million). This acquisition makes NAO Spirits a subsidiary capabilities, and industry expertise while maintaining of the alcohol beverage multi-national giant. extensive distribution network, production its artisanal approach and consumer connection. With 35 manufacturing facilities across the country and Founded in 2017 by Anand Virmani, NAO Spirits established market presence, the partnership promises pioneered India’s craft gin movement with a vision to accelerate NAO Spirits’ growth trajectory in India’s to create botanical-infused spirits showcasing Indian expanding premium spirits segment. Liquid 77

news Japanese Sake With Italian Cuisine Itameshi – the fusion of Italian cuisine and Japanese sake – was presented by sake expert Mika Eoka at Toscana Delhi in Saket on the occasion of World Sake Day and Japan Month. In his opening remarks, Ambassador H.E. Kenichi Ono said, “while sake traditionally pairs best with Japanese cuisine, today we transcend those boundaries to explore the exciting possibilities with Italian cuisine. Sake, a fermented beverage and the national drink of Japan, offers complexity and versatility across global cuisines.” The sakes selected for the afternoon were from Tottori Prefecture (known for Sandy Dunes), Nagano Prefecture (Roof of Japan), and Hyogo Prefecture (the capital of sake) – highlighting the geographical variations. Antipasti – Avocado & Stracciatella Crostini (v) and Gamberi Saltati, Pomodorini e Olives – was paired with Junmai Daiginjo Princess Marriage Ikus Shiro fermented in the unique ‘Sake Mom’ style. Insalata – Burrata (v) or Burrata with Parma Ham was paired with Masumi Junmai Daiginjo Sanka Sake from the foot of the Alps. Primo Piatto – Penne alla Romano (v) or Ravioli di polo e Salsa Rosa was paired with a warm and very nutty Hakushika Tokubetsu Yamadanishiki Honjozo sake served in a broad cup. Mika informed that sake loses its bitterness after warming and the umami and sweet flavours open up. Secondo Piatto – Melanzane alla parmigiana (v) or Chicken di Toscano was paired with Masumi Junmai Kaya sake brewed with local rice and Yeast No. 7. Dolce – the final course of Alphonso Mango Chia Seed Panna cotta was paired with Hakutsuru Awayuki sparkling sake. Awa means sparkling/ light and Yuki means snow. This sake gets its sparkle from a gas injection with originally developed yeast. According to Mika and some Japanese officials, Indians were taking a liking to sake and the imports into India were growing – a very encouraging development. Liquid hopes that the key stake holders will not be scared by the enormity of the very difficult task and will continue to put sustained efforts to boost sake consumption. The five course pairing menu was driven by ingredients and flavour profiles. The opener was a bouncer. Sandy Coast Classic Kasen sake and Domaines Barons de Rothschild Les Légendes ‘R’ Blanc 2023 wine were served together to allow comparison for umami, saltiness and sulfites. This exploration was accompanied by Blue Cheese on Toasted Brioche (v) or Salmon Gravlax, Balsamic Caviar with Mustard Cream Cheese. 78 Liquid A Toast to Latin America in Delhi Geeti Bhagat of the Ambassadors Forum India in collaboration with the Embassies of Ecuador, Guatemala, Paraguay, Peru and Uruguay hosted a vibrant Latin Cocktails evening in New Delhi. Uniting culinary artistry with cultural diplomacy, the event showcased the rich gastronomic traditions of Latin America – served with elegance and a spirit of connection. Guests were treated to a curated tasting

news experience, each dish and beverage representing the heart of a nation. From Ecuador came the bright, citrusy ceviche de camarón and crispy banana chips, while Guatemala offered handmade dobladas and the internationally acclaimed Ron Zacapa – a rum aged in the highlands. Paraguay presented comforting vegetarian chipitas, paired with Ron Aristócrata, bringing a mellow warmth to the evening. Peru’s culinary pride shone with causa de atún, melt-in-your-mouth alfajores, and the everpopular pisco sour, which offered a tangy balance of tradition and refreshment. Uruguay completed the menu with golden, flaky empanadas, adding depth and soul to the table. intricate balance of temperature, flow, and spirit strength which removes the hue while preserving the depth Chivas is famous for. Ambassadors Fernando Xavier Bucheli Vargas of Ecuador, Omar Castañeda Solares of Guatemala, Fleming Raul Duarte Ramos of Paraguay and Alberto A. Guani of Uruguay, alongwith the Deputy Chief of Mission from Peru graced with their presence. Regulations require scotch whisky to retain the colour it gains from barrel ageing. So, Crystalgold with an ABV of 40% enters the market as a ‘spirit drink’. It challenges conventions while honouring Chivas’s heritage. The evening was a celebration of diplomacy at its most human – where fine food and drink became a bridge between nations. Chivas hasn’t released another limited expression. It’s staking claim to new drinking occasions. Master Blender Sandy Hyslop’s experimentation over years made Crystalgold a reality. According to him, innovation must amplify tradition, not override it, hence the painstaking filtration process that retains texture and character while offering a clearer pour. Crystalgold – A Clear Chivas Rather than waiting for late-night whisky pours, Crystalgold is positioned for earlier moments, when gin, tequila, or lighter spirits traditionally dominate. It has been crafted to shine on backbars, retail shelves, and in curated settings alike. Limited distribution to premium venues and select retailers further reinforces its exclusivity. Chivas Regal, synonymous with Scotch heritage, has introduced Crystalgold – a crystal-clear spirit born from oak-aged whisky. To the eye, it looks like water: elegant, illuminating, minimal. But on the nose and palate, it reveals the full heart of whisky with notes of vanilla, toffee, orchard fruits, apple pie, butterscotch, and citrus. This bold alchemy is made possible by a bespoke filtration system – an Crystalgold was launched at the Singapore Grand Prix in October 2025. The brand’s global ambassador, Formula 1 driver Charles Leclerc, lent a creative voice to a signature cocktail – ‘Leclerc Spritz’ – combining citrus, elderflower, mint and sparkling wine with Crystalgold. This is a ground-breaking statement from Chivas, proof that whisky’s story is still evolving, that tradition can be playful, and that clarity, sometimes, speaks volumes. Liquid 79

news Powdered Beer – A New Form reconstitution to lower inventory. But there are technical and regulatory questions. Presently it is available only in a non-alcoholic form. Efforts are underway to stabilize ethanol in powder form while retaining flavour integrity and safety compliance. Furthermore, carbonation via powder form remains a challenge in terms of carbon dioxide solubility and mouthfeel. While purists, particularly within Germany’s Reinheitsgebot tradition, are raising concerns on whether this powdered version qualifies as ‘beer’ in a legal or cultural sense, NZ is prepping to distribute pilots of the lightweight, space-saving format in Asia and Africa, where transport infrastructure and import duties often impede the growth of premium beer. Neuzeller Klosterbräu (NZ) brewery in Germany has created what may be the world’s first carbonated powdered beer – designed to be reconstituted with water like instant coffee – that mimics the look, taste, and even the effervescence of conventional beer. NZ was founded over 400 years ago and has a long In a world where sustainability, portability and modular consumption are embraced, powdered beer may be the next frontier – not to replace but to complement craft cans or draught. Sula Unveils Muscat Blanc history of experimentation. They spent most of the last two years refining the formula that delivers foam, flavour, and freshness. “We want to rethink how traditional beer is produced, transported and consumed,” says Stefan Fritsche, Managing Director of NZ. “We have responded to environmental pressures and logistical inefficiencies in global beverage distribution.” The implications are significant for sustainability in breweries. By removing water – which can comprise up to 95% of beer’s volume – NZ believes that transportation weight can be cut very substantially to over 90%, which will reduce shipping costs and emissions. Sula Vineyards has launched Muscat Blanc, India’s first aromatic, low-alcohol still white wine made with Muscat grapes grown in Nashik. At 7.5% ABV, this latest offering A traditional brewing process is at the base of the water- brings a lighter, more contemporary dimension to the soluble, shelf-stable powder. Once mixed with water, it growing range of Indian wines. forms a golden, foamy drink that replicates the sensory cues of a lager. The foam effect has been designed to simulate the head retention beer lovers expect. Muscat Blanc is lighter, brighter, and infinitely more expressive – litchi, citrus and rose – its sweetness balanced by refreshing acidity. Crisp and refreshing, this The potential is tremendous: extended shelf life; reduced versatile wine is meant for easy enjoyment – it’s your packaging waste, lower freight costs and on-demand perfect pick for sunny afternoons. 80 Liquid

news Currently available in Maharashtra, Muscat Blanc will soon make its way to Karnataka and other key markets across India. It is quite accessible at a price point of around L875 for a 750 ml bottle. The launch marks another milestone for Sula, a brand that dominates India’s evolving wine landscape. According to the winemaking team, the goal was to craft a wine that embodies India’s terroir and the contemporary lifestyle with ultimate respect for the environment, following strict sustainable practices. The result is a wine that reflects how India drinks today where moderation, mindfulness, and flavour coexist beautifully. Reliance Enters Packaged Bottled Water Campa Sure is backed by a newly commissioned 600,000 sq. ft bottling facility in Guwahati, Assam designed with an annual capacity of 18 crore litres and partnerships with regional stakeholders to support production. The group’s retail footprint (Reliance Retail network and JioMart) will be leveraged to create distribution muscle. The purification process that meets Bureau of Indian Standards norms is based on reverse osmosis and UV treatment, and essential minerals are retained. Households seeking safe and cost-effective drinking water are the target. The company aims to offer branded hydration to urban, semi urban and smaller towns alike – its rollout will be in Northern India with other regions following soon. Success will depend on how the company maintains consistent quality, remain regulatory compliant – packaged drinking water has a ‘high risk food’ status – and manage logistics in the heartlands and urban centres. Campa Sure brings more choice in the value segment of packaged drinking water – without premium pricing. Mango Love Driving Bottled Beverages In India, mango is not just a fruit – it’s a season, an addiction, a memory, and increasingly, a booming Reliance Consumer Products Ltd (RCPL) has launched a mass market mineral-enriched packaged drinking water – Campa Sure – with the aim to gain consumer trust and make quality hydration affordable and accessible to all. business. From fizzy mango sodas to pulp-rich juice blends and mango-flavoured milk, the fruit’s unmatched popularity powered the ready-to-drink (RTD) beverage sector across price points and platforms. Industry insiders An aggressive pricing (L15 for 1 litre) undercuts by almost pointed to a consistent spike in mango sales every 30% the current leaders – Bisleri, Kinley by Coca Cola summer – the segment contributed over 35% of overall and Aquafina by Pepsi – in a market currently valued fruit-flavoured beverage revenues for many major at around L30,000 crore. The expectation is to mirror brands. the very successful Reliance strategy of disruptively low Legacy giants like Frooti and Paper Boat have had price to gain scale in other sectors like telecom. to contend with newer introductions such as Lahori Liquid 81

news The mango trend was also seen as fermenting in new directions. A handful of boutique wineries in Goa and Maharashtra have experimented with mango wines, bringing a tropical twist to India’s nascent fruit wine scene. Yet, this mango mania also highlighted a seasonal vulnerability. Brands struggled to maintain the same traction post-monsoon, forcing them to diversify or reformulate. For now though, the king of fruits reigns in PET bottles, tetra packs, glass jars, and cold store fridges. If mango is India’s summer obsession, the bottled beverage market is riding its golden wave. Mango and local cold-pressed startups. Coca-Cola owned Maaza continued to dominate shelf space and roadside stalls alike, giving proof that mango’s hold on the Indian palate was enduring and lucrative. But as new launches and revamped labels graced the shelves, the mango wars got juicier. Zero Proof at Starbucks Reserve® What drove this mango rush? Part of the answer lies in the deep emotional connect. Mango evoked nostalgia, summer vacations, and regional pride, whether it was Alphonso in Maharashtra, Banganapalli in Andhra Pradesh, or Dussehri in Uttar Pradesh. But the rest of the answer was pure market logic. According to data from major beverage retailers, mango-flavoured drinks outsold all other single-fruit variants combined during the March-July window, and sales peaked mid-summer. One brand reported that its mango SKU alone accounted for 70% of its total RTD fruit beverage sales in Q2 2024. Brands responded with aggressive pricing, mini-pack launches, and even regional mango tie-ins to appeal to local tastes. Some also used the mango variant as an entry-point SKU, launching with it first before rolling out more complex blends. Starbucks Reserve ® is the new experience centre in Mumbai that is inspired by boundless curiosity and Interestingly, mango drinks also performed well on passion for all things coffee. A new set of drinks has e-commerce, where impulse beverages usually lag. been introduced – the Zero Proof Cocktails – a collection “It’s the one flavour people will go out of their way to of hand crafted, non-alcoholic, coffee-base serves that buy in bulk,” said a category manager at a major quick aims to elevate the multi-sensory coffee experience. commerce platform. “We’ve even had to cap discounts The range reflects a wider trend in the space, where during peak weeks.” consumers are increasingly seeking premium, non- 82 Liquid

news alcoholic options that don’t compromise on flavour or craft. By blending mixology techniques with specialty coffee, Starbucks has created a menu that bridges the gap between cafe culture and cocktail bars. Four drinks are being offered. An ‘Espresso Martini’, based on Starbucks Reserve Espresso, cherry vanilla syrup and a touch of orange, takes its cue from the classic cocktail but skipping the alcohol. The ‘Reserve Nitro Cold Brew Ale’ mimics the body and creamy head of a classic stout using nitro cold brew on tap. ‘Gin Coco Botanica’ combines coconut water, citrus and gin-flavoured syrup for a tropical-style serve, finished with pickled ginger. ‘Jamaican Rum Stardust’ leans into spiced and citrus notes with flavours of jaggery and calamansi, poured over ice and topped with smoked star anise. Speaking at the launch, Tata Starbucks CEO Sushant Dash said the zero proof cocktails aim to reflect changing preferences, with more people looking for ‘lighter, more mindful choices’ alongside traditional coffee formats. He also noted that the first-of-its-kind initiative is fresh, flavour forward, and distinctly Starbucks – and allows the Reserve outlet to be reimagined as broader and versatile social spaces, where coffee can be experienced around conversations in unexpected ways. For now, the Zero Proof Cocktails are available only at the Starbucks Reserve in Mumbai. While the company has not indicated whether the menu will expand to other locations, the move underscores how international coffee chains are experimenting with new formats to respond to India’s evolving café culture. Savannah Bar’s New Launches The Savannah Bar at Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi Airport has been redefining its offer and experience with new cocktail offerings. ‘Where indulgence meets mindful living’ is a refreshing new way to sip and socialize. It recently hosted ‘Splash, Sweat & Sparkle’ – a sundowner that glamorously blended fitness, indulgence, and celebration to launch Cocktail 2.0. Mixologists reimagined signature concoctions with a modern twist with the aim to create an experience that is not just about drinks, but about lifestyle – a perfect mix of wellness, indulgence and celebration. Now, it unveiled a premium alcohol-free cocktail experience in collaboration with Sober, India’s first distilled non-alcoholic range of drinks. Guests were invited to ‘sip the experience – skip the hangover’ and step into a world where cocktails dazzle without the compromise – where the mornings after a night out won’t be spent recovering. With Sober, every glass celebrates taste and craftsmanship and is meant to inspire and energise. From zesty citrus blends and botanical medleys to tropical creations on ice, each cocktail presented was a work of art, curated to delight the senses while keeping wellness in mind. “Sober elevates the craft mixology experience without compromising on style or wellbeing,” says Ashwni Kumar Goela, Vice President Operations, Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi Airport & Area General Manager, Radisson Hotel Group South Asia. “We wanted our guests to indulge, connect, and savour every moment – guilt-free.” The reimagined cocktail offering in the classy ambience, cozy elegance and vibrant energy of the Savannah Bar are meant to spark conversation, celebrate flavour, and redefine the way Delhi enjoys a night out. Liquid 83

news PVR HOME Hitting the Right Notes P VR Inox’s luxury lounge, HOME at Ambience Mall in Vasant Kunj, has launched a new cocktail menu and we got a taste. Curated by the ever-innovative Santanu Chanda – mixologist, storyteller, and winner of the Macallan Creative Collective 2025 – ‘Harmony’ is not just a new cocktail and mocktail list. It’s an immersive experience in every sip that blends the art of mixology with music and mindfulness – a journey through musical eras, chakra energies, and flavour-forward intuition. Each of the twelve cocktails is composed like a track Harmony is an invitation to slow down, taste with intention, and let a drink be more than a combination of ingredients – it can be a story, a memory, even a song. on a record. From the smoky brass of swing to the hypnotic beats of electronica, from the velvet of soul to the raw edges of grunge – each one captures the emotion of its era. If you’ve ever wondered what the psychedelic rock of the Beatles or Pink Floyd might taste like, ‘Not A 84 Liquid

news Rocket Science’ (vodka, banana, caramel, rocket leaf) brings that mind-expanding vibe with lingering soft sweetness and a dash of surprise – this was an immediate standout. For something more poised and structured? ‘Rise of Opera’ (makrut lime leaf macerated rum, timur berry cordial, and citrus) is inspired by the golden age of classical music – extremely elegant, sharp, and oh-so-refined. where the rhythm often flows before the drinks do, and where music is just as much a part of the vibe as the velvet chairs and curated cocktails. Which is why Harmony feels less like a concept and more like a natural evolution – one where the curator has seemingly effortlessly fused the venue’s signature sound with what’s in your glass. Some others were ‘Four on the Floor’, a bold tequilabased number mellowed with apricot and egg white, and ‘Analog Affair’, which blends whiskey, peanut butter, cacao vermouth and jam. The sonic inspiration of the cocktails doesn’t come out of nowhere. HOME has long been known for its love affair with live music – hosting everything from jazz nights to indie acts and soul sessions. It’s a space Liquid 85

news Each of the twelve cocktails is composed like a track on a record. From the smoky brass of swing to the hypnotic beats of electronica, from the velvet of soul to the raw edges of grunge – each one captures the emotion of its era. in mind. For sure he kept the room excited and at ease, with constant engagement. The clarified cocktails have a clean, almost glowing appearance – something that looked extra magical adjacent the stained-glass alcove tucked into the back of HOME. Light bites – cheese, cold cuts, dim sums, sushi – all complement the drinks and don’t overpower them. Ultimately, Harmony is an invitation to slow down, taste with intention, and let a drink be more than a combination of ingredients – it can be a story, a memory, even a song. L And then there’s the mocktail section – a chakrainspired collection of seven non-alcoholic drinks designed with intention and balance for mindful, conscious indulgence. Each aligns with an energy centre of the body. A favourite? ‘Crown Light’, a jamun-spice blend that’s equal parts crown chakra and crowd-pleaser. One to watch for next time: ‘Seat in Florence’, a refreshing grunge-inspired number that combines strawberry gelato-washed gin with yuzu and mint soda. Bound to transport you to summer in Italy. Others like ‘Root Revival’ and ‘Solar Spark’ bring their own mix of earthy tones and bright, refreshing flavours. The preview and launch wasn’t an average tasting. Santanu walked us through the story behind each concoction, telling us how he kept guest preferences 86 Liquid

coffee International Coffee Day 1 st October is celebrated as International Coffee Day since 2014, when the UK based International The Coffee Board and Ministry of Commerce & Coffee Organisation made the announcement to raise at Bharat Mandapam Convention Centre in New awareness for coffee around the world. In 2025, the Delhi putting Indian coffee in the spotlight. A ‘Coffee theme chosen was sustainable development in the Experience Zone’ and Expo was set up, a technical coffee industry around the world. session “Embracing Collaboration for Collective Action Industry, Government of India organised a symposium – The Way Forward” was presented by stakeholders International Coffee Day in Delhi celebrated the rich culture, the contributions of the industry that has offered livelihood to farmers and stake holders. to highlight success stories and challenges faced by the farmers, and the events were wrapped up with a ‘High Coffee’. The expo was inaugurated by Mr Rajesh Agarwal, Secretary, Ministry of Commerce in the presence of Mrs. Kesang Y Sherpa, Joint Secretary, Department of 88 Liquid

coffee Commerce and Mr M. Kurma Rao, CEO & Secretary, Coffee Board. India is the seventh largest producer of coffee in the world and fifth largest exporter. In 2024-25, India exported coffee worth US$ 185 billion to more than 120 countries. A coffee lover, Mr Agarwal congratulated the industry that the exports of coffee had doubled in the past few years and encouraged them to build Brand India to position India better and stronger on the global platform. Hon’ble Minister of Commerce Mr Piyush Goyal, joined in and emphasised, “Indian Coffee is unbeatable. Nothing matches its rich aroma and taste.” Officials highlighted the commencement of the India-European Free Trade Association (EFTA) Trade and Economic Partnership Agreement (TEPA) which is expected to open new opportunities for Indian coffee to access the markets in four European countries – Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein. The Coffee Board is headquartered in Bengaluru, the to cups, and the diversity of Indian coffee with a capital of the largest coffee bean producing state in glimpse of the traditional and modern culture. India. They curated displays to share the tale of coffee The coffee producing regions in India are mainly in in India showcasing the different stages – from berry southern India – Karnataka is the leader followed by Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Odisha, and Telangana. The seven sisters in the northeast claim a share of 10% in total production. The quality and style of the coffee beans produced across these regions is distinct and some are protected as Geographical Indications. At the Coffee Expo, 18 exhibitors from around the country – large producers, exporters and startups – participated. This also included environment friendly products like mugs and biodegradable bottles produced from coffee waste. WAE (Water Air Energy) is a new entrant in the coffee sector. CEO Mr Deepak Panwar told us that they have chosen to source their coffee from high-altitude regions, specifically on and above the Tropic of Cancer, mainly from Northeast India and Nepal. To ensure ethically sourced and high-quality beans, they have direct relations with the farmers, mainly tribals and they produce speciality coffees in house. Liquid 89

coffee Several senior stake holders – producers, traders, media and coffee lovers – participated in the technical afternoon. The panel discussion with stake holders presented way forward for the Indian coffee industry. Ms. Chandni Purnesh, the 5th generation coffee grower and producer representing Harley Estate, spoke on the importance of co-existence with nature as the route to a sustainable future. Mr Sushant Challa of Continental Coffee Ltd., a large exporter of private label instant coffee from India and proud owner of the English brand ‘Percol’ focussed on the importance of growing export and how the Indian coffee exports had grown. “Our industry has undergone a significant transformation, evolving into one of the largest producers of instant coffee in the world.” He attributed this to government policies that allow raw materials to be imported for processing and re-export. Overall, International Coffee Day in Delhi, presented coffee as more than just a drink. It celebrated the rich culture, the contributions of the industry that has offered livelihood to large population of farmers and stake holders that have accelerated the growth of the sector to assure its sizeable contribution to the Indian story. This celebration will further strengthen global partnerships in the Indian coffee industry. L 90 Liquid

kombucha The Healthy Fizz Kombucha Anyone? K ombucha is an ancient beverage that dates back as early as 220 B.C. According to folklore, brought the drink to Japan as a curative for Emperor it was originally brewed in the Manchuria province sparked a debate on Kombucha’s origin – Chinese, in Northeast China and was prized for its healing Korean or Japanese? properties. The name ‘Kombucha’ seems to be a Even though the origin is a puzzle, the popularity is merger of the Korean physician, Dr. Kombu, who definitely not. Kombucha has mesmerized audiences Ingyo with the word ‘Cha’ meaning tea in Korean. This Liquid 91

Despite the buzz, 22% of urban Indians have never heard of Kombucha, and even among those who have, only 56% have actually tasted it. Photo: healyourgut.in kombucha in Europe and USA with stories of its benefits. According to Kombucha Brewers International, in the US, this category grew to $1.8 billion in sales in 2019 from a modest $1 million in 2014. The pandemic focus on immunity boosters and wellbeing created a bigger appetite for wellness drinks and home-kits provided by e-commerce majors helped. Kombucha is a rich probiotic and antioxidant. It supports gut health and the immune system and aids good digestion along with blood sugar and cholesterol management. Indians like complex drinks and have a history of popular probiotic drinks like kanji, so incorporating this versatile drink to neutralise spice and oil dominance in our cuisine is a no-brainer. If the taste for Kombucha is acquired, it serves as a healthy replacement for sugary drinks. Not surprisingly, it may also have a small alcoholic content by virtue of the fermentation. Kombucha SCOBY HOW TO MAKE KOMBUCHA? One portion of SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast) About 200ml of starter tea 2-3 tea bags Sugar 2-3 litres bottled water A large glass container A large sieve cloth to cover A rubber band Flavours of choice Boil the water and let the tea bags brew about 20 mins and then remove the tea bags. Add sugar. Let it cool down. Pour into the glass container and add the starter tea, which could be a previous batch of Kombucha or raw Kombucha. Slowly add the SCOBY and allow it to sink or float. Take the container to a cool place, away from direct sunlight, cover it with the cloth and secure with the rubber band so that it becomes a lid. Wait patiently for a week or better two. If the Kombucha tastes tangy, i.e., the balance between flavour and acidity is good, it is ready for consumption – else allow it to ferment some more. Add flavours of choice. Use fruit, honey, or sugar. It also goes well with ginger, tulsi and other spices. Chill the concoction and voilà you have crafted a refreshing artisanal Kombucha. 92 Liquid

kombucha Kombucha is a probiotic powerhouse that supports gut health and neutralises the spice and oil in Indian cuisine. In Delhi NCR, bars are dedicated to producing flavoured and exciting variants of Kombucha – places like ‘Atmosphere’, ‘Bhu Kombucha’ in South Delhi, ‘Stoked Kombucha’ in Gurugram and the home brewery ‘Bein’ in West Delhi, welcome patrons with ever tasted it. So, for a substantial number of people, Kombucha is a distant drink. When asked, taste connotations of a fermented drink did not seem to be their cup of tea (pun intended)! Despite all its exotic flavours, Kombucha is perceived their delicious concoctions. more as an acquired taste and consumed for its health Despite the growing fame, Kombucha is still not doesn’t sit well with all. The youth disdainfully refuse a household must-stock. A virtual poll conducted having it, “at our age, we don’t need to have a less amongst 100 men and women aged 30+ years tasty drink for health reasons.” from upper income strata, across the metros of Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai showed that a substantial 22% had never heard of the drink. Even amongst the 78% who had heard of it, about 56% had and wellness benefits. The tangy and tarty taste A word of caution, too much of anything is bad and Kombucha has caffeine. Too frequent or large a quantity can also cause bloating and indigestion issues. Also, if buying Kombucha commercially, do have a look at the alcohol levels. Nevertheless, ‘Boocha’ deserves its place under the sun or rather its ferment under sunshine, if it makes the body sing with the happiness of good health. Skip that plain iced tea, sugary artificial cold beverage and dance a healthy jig with mango flavoured, cinnamon spiced Kombucha. L Nandita Kaushik, writer and poet, fell in love with words at nine. Her book Rediscover Your Midlife Mojo is available across India. Liquid 93

season Seasonal Sips Recaliberated Refreshment A brass tumbler sweats quietly on a verandah in the afternoon heat, the scent of crushed mint and jaggery wafting through the nearby mango trees on which the cicadas are humming. In a world of instant refreshment, sugary sodas, and commercial mixers, age-old sips serve as reminders. In an age when hydration comes bottled and body clocks are wound by screens, beverages from India’s ancient past offer not just refreshment but recalibration. monsoons, every fruit ripens and every drink is shaped They are heirlooms passed through steel glasses, each by the season that births it and with purpose. sip echoing the land, the body’s needs and the weather. Drinks are a delicate confluence of agricultural cycles, India drinks with its weather, not against it and not ayurvedic wisdom, and cultural practices. Far from just to hydrate, but to align with it by either softening being customs through generations, they reflect its extremes or partaking in its gifts. There is a quiet a continuing understanding of food as functional, logic to these seasonal sips – a rhythm stitched into soil symbolic, and sensorial medicine – and are offered to and memory. In the midst of heat and cold waves and deities, to guests, and finally, to the self. 94 Liquid

season SPRING into a drink of serene sweetness, village women can be As new year festivities calm down and temperatures seen at gates of temples with earthen pots, ladling Bel start to rise, spring tiptoes in and marks auspicious Panna out as prasad to those braving the April heat. beginnings. Urban cafés now reinterpret it with kefir or coconut In South India, panakam is prepared with lime, dry ginger, and jaggery for Ram Navami and offered as water, yet its essence endures: a sheeta – a cooling property in ayurveda that helps reduce internal heat and prasad to devotees in temples. For temple rituals such calm digestive inflammation – disguised as celebration. as Vaikhanasa Grhya Sūtra, the sweetened water of SUMMER panakam is the purifier offered to Lord Vishnu. Ayurvedic Spring warmth soon transforms into heat – first tentative, treaties classify jaggery and ginger as energy boosting then tyrannical. Kitchens turn to cooling agents. Aam and warming, digestion-kindling ingredients that steady the body during the transition between seasons when vata and pitta – ayurvedic bioelements governing the nervous system and metabolism respectively – are most unsettled. Panna has been cooling the body for centuries. The hands that till a few months ago stirred Panakam and Bel Panna now reach for raw mangoes, still green and acrid. Traditionally stored in matkas (earthern pots) to preserve their potency, the raw mangoes are roasted on open flame until their skins char and the air has Sankranti – Odisha’s new year. The bel fruit (Aegle the faint smells of smoke and sugar. The pulp, beaten marmelos) is offered to Lord Shiva and mentioned in with jaggery, black salt, and cumin, becomes an elixir the Charaka Samhita for its cooling and gut-soothing of electrolytes. Ayurveda prescribes it to pacify pitta properties. Blended with jaggery, banana, and coconut and to replenish the body’s mineral salts lost to heat. Photo: smithakalluraya.com Photo: Getty Images/Anantaradhika In north India, Bel Panna, marks Maha Vishuba Panakam Bel Panna Liquid 95

Photo: Miansari66 season Drinks are a delicate confluence of agricultural cycles, ayurvedic wisdom, and cultural practices. lemon, jamun juice is both astringent and antibacterial. Ayurveda classifies jamun as grahi – an agent that absorbs excess moisture and controls diarrhoea. The fruit is also packed with vitamin C, iron, and jamboline, a compound that stabilizes blood sugar, earning it superfruit status among diabetic wellness circles. In Hindu tradition, it is associated with Lords Krishna and Shiva, and features in regional rituals during Nag Panchami. Historically, the subcontinent’s ancient name, Jambudvipa means ‘the island of the fruit of the jamun tree’ – the tree that symbolizes abundance, vitality, and spiritual significance. This is a nod to the Aam Panna fruit’s deep-rooted presence in early India. Kālidāsa’s Ritusamhara sings of mango trees bending Prepared simply as a sharbet or fermented into vinegar, heavy with promise and the relief of tart drinks in the jamun drinks are experiencing a gentle resurgence. scorching midday sun. Urban interest in native antioxidants and heritage produce has made jamun a seasonal staple at farmers’ different idiom of coolness. The deep-purple Garcinia markets and health stores. indica fruit ripens just as the Konkan region begins to burn. Ayurvedic compendia such as the Bhāvaprakāśa Nighantu describe this tangy-red drink as amla rasam: sour and heat-quelling, rich in anti-inflammatory and digestive properties. Its cousin, Solkadhi, blends kokum’s tang with coconut milk, and is poured at Photo: kannanskitchen.com Along India’s western coast, Kokum Sherbet offers a seafood feasts. Today, kokum is a cultural anchor and ingredient of modern gastronomy for chefs, proof that the wisdom of seasonality never really leaves the palate. MONSOON The monsoon brings relief from the heat but brings with it a sluggishness as humidity tamps down digestion, and waterborne illnesses proliferate. After the first downpour, children race toward the ripest jamuns (Syzygium cumini – the Indian blackberry), staining their palms purple but trusting them more than the thermometer. Infused with black salt, ginger, and 96 Liquid Jamun Drink

season WINTER As the monsoons retreat and winters set in with marked drops in temperatures, the palate shifts from tangy to tonic. Fruits take on thicker skins, sweeter cores, and deeper colours as nature’s quiet response to the cold. Winter drinks are slower, denser, and restorative, designed more to nourish than quench. The new classic, ABC juice – a vivid blend of apple, beetroot, and carrot – captures winter in a glass. Its colour recalls fresh tilak applied in a temple and pomegranate seeds, its flavour very earthy. Beetroot’s antioxidants strengthen blood and immunity; carrots bring warmth and vision; apple ties it all together with gentle sweetness. Ayurveda reads the blend as ojasbuilding – restoring energy and aiding digestion when the body turns sluggish. Vendors serve it with a pinch of black salt or ginger to pronounce an earthy echo of ancient herbal tonics disguised as juice. Far north, where orchards sleep under frost, Ladakh’s apricot juice tells another story. Pressed from chulli, the wild Himalayan apricot, it is amber, silken, and faintly tart. Long before it found its way into glass bottles, families sun-dried the fruit to last the cold months. Reconstituted in warm water, it became both drink and Photo: kannanskitchen.com memory. When nights draw close and the body slows, each carries the same quiet intent – to feed warmth where the sun withdraws. By the time spring edges back, the cycle has already reset, with weather, fruit, and body conversing once more. India’s beverages are not separate chapters but one unbroken verse, recited differently with each turn of season. They are more than rustic charms; they are fluid expressions of ecological intelligence, spiritual heritage, and physiological care. They are blueprints drawn from centuries of observation of how wind shifts, how the body falters, how fruit ripens not just in the fields, but in collective wisdom. In a world of instant refreshment, sugary sodas, and commercial mixers, age-old sips serve as reminders. They whisper of matkas and grinding stones, of temple courtyards and grandmotherly hands, of recipes recited without ever being written. They speak in the language of turmeric-stained fingers, sun-dried ingredients, and the patience of steeping. To rediscover them is to drink with purpose, to accept the invitation of the season and respond with a drinking vessel in hand or even cupped hands. For as tradition states, ‘what grows in the season, heals in that season.’ And somewhere, a brass tumbler sweats again, the season once more finding its voice. L ABC Juice Manya Kadiwala, a Fermentation Science student at Purdue University, studies how taste, culture, and science shape drinks and their stories. Liquid 97

water Functional Hydration Beyond Water W e once thought hydration was simple: drink a specific number of glasses of water every day. The shift didn’t happen overnight. It came with our If you’d run a marathon or play sport, maybe add a booming fitness culture was discernible, and the sports drink. Today, that feels outdated. Hydration consumer studied the legally compliant labels with has moved beyond quenching thirst into something more deliberate, more functional. Call it Functional Hydration 2.0 – where the bottle in your hand isn’t lifestyle – cities got hotter, and workdays longer. A the eye of a nutritionist. People no longer want to know just what’s missing from a drink (less sugar, no additives), but what’s been added. Botanicals that calm. Electrolytes that replenish. Collagen that just about fluids, but about energy, immunity, focus, promises glow. Adaptogens that take the edge off mood, and as specific as skin health. stress. Water, once passive, is now purposeful. 98 Liquid

water The pandemic accelerated this consciousness. Immunity suddenly mattered more than indulgence, and ‘clean’ became non-negotiable. That’s when hydration quietly evolved: Vitamin waters replaced sodas, electrolyte sachets slipped into gym bags, and Instagram feeds filled with pastel-tinted cans claimed stress relief or digestive support. What started with sports drinks has grown into an entire ecosystem of waters, tonics, teas, and even functional coffees. At its heart, Functional Hydration 2.0 is about choice. For runners and commuters, there are electrolyte-rich formulations. Adaptogen blends with ashwagandha or L-theanine could ease that much dreaded post lunch slump. Collagen-infused drinks came handy for those chasing skin radiance. And for purists, coconut water and plant-based infusions help keep it natural while still promising more than plain hydration. The sensory Functional Hydration 2.0 makes water feel vital again – not just for thirst, but for energy, clarity, and knowing what you drink works for you. experience matters too – flavour, fizz, even the ritual of opening a sleek, minimalist can. Hydration has become a lifestyle marker as much as a health choice. India isn’t far behind. Once dominated by packaged water and glucose drinks, the landscape now includes Liquid 99

water BRANDS TO TRY Evocus Hydration IV (India): Clean-label electrolyte drink in flavours like Blueberry and Lime & Yuzu. Liquid I.V.: Powder sachets for rapid hydration and electrolyte balance. Aquarius Glucocharge (India): Hydration with glucose and minerals, designed for hot climates. Recess (US): Sparkling water infused adaptogens and hemp for stress relief. with OLIPOP (US): A gut-friendly soda alternative with prebiotics and botanicals. black alkaline water, vitamin-enriched sippers, and clean-label electrolyte mixes that cater to both weekend joggers and boardroom regulars. Globally, brands like Recess or OLIPOP lead with moodenhancing and gut-friendly formulations; in India, newer entrants are beginning to carve a space by blending science, tradition, and taste. And this is only the beginning. Expect hydration to get more personalised – a morning drink that sharpens focus, a post-workout sachet that restores balance, a fizzy tablet that assures better gut, a nighttime infusion that aids sleep. Sugar will become an Because in the end, drinking better isn’t about buying afterthought, while ingredient science steps into the into every new claim. It’s about noticing what your spotlight. Technology may even join the story: your body asks for, reading the fine print, and choosing devices nudging you to sip when your body needs it rituals that actually work for you and support you. most. Hydration is no longer be one-size-fits-all; it is as Functional Hydration 2.0 is less about trends and thoughtfully curated as your playlist. more about making something as simple as water feel vital again – not just for thirst, but for energy, clarity, The effect isn’t novelty for novelty’s sake, but a defined expression of why spiceforward spirits feel so at home here. 100 Liquid and the quiet pleasure of knowing that what you drink is working for you. L Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach).

wellness Hangover Elixir Enjoy Your Drink “S o what is the cure to a hangover?” “More alcohol!” tequila to get rid of the dread (and an angry stomach) One of my friends was spontaneous as he opened his For all you alcohol lovers out there, the following can of beer to start off the night. paragraph might turn you off, but please bear with me. Oftentimes, I have found myself nursing killer A hangover is your body’s way of revolting against hangovers the morning after. A headache, dry throat, what you did the previous night (even if your mind may and dehydration present themselves as just few side not remember). Alcohol is like a thief in disguise. While effects of having a fun night out. But I’m going to let you’re dancing your heart out, it slowly robs your body you in on a little secret… you don’t need a shot of of water, emptying out electrolytes and consequently, the mornings after. Liquid 101

wellness Hydration is key, key, key! Although this might be a little extreme, I try to sneak in a sip of water for every couple sips of any drink that I take.” leaving you dehydrated. Your liver, bless it, tries its best to break down a chemical called ‘acetaldehyde’ in the meantime. Your stomach lining grows irritated, blood sugar drops, and the inflammation that follows is what leads to the marching band practice in your head the morning after. Some don’t suffer from poor sleep after drinking, maybe they are God’s favourites. When you do wake up after a long night of partying with that ‘little bit’ to drink, your body feels the need to hyperbolize its protest in all forms that it can – nausea, arguably, being the worst. The only way to make your body feel better, as is for any protestor, is to give it what it’s lost – simple restorative products for which you don’t need to rush to the pharmacy – they are in your kitchen. So you can go out without ruining the day after. I’ll give you some options that have worked for me (but tastes are different and impact of different alcohols is different. THE HARD RESET You need coconut water to replenish your electrolytes, juice of half a lime, mint leaves to cool your overheating system, a teaspoon of honey, and a few pinches of salt for sodium. THE FRUIT PUNCH For those of you who prefer a more fruity kick in the mornings. A cup of fresh orange juice to get in your Vitamin C, some grated ginger for the nausea that haunts all of us, and a pinch of turmeric for its antiinflammatory properties. I am sure my mother never expected me to use turmeric for this purpose. GENTLE HUG FOR YOUR INSIDES The most comforting option is a cup of warm water with a tablespoon of honey, a teaspoon of freshly 102 Liquid

wellness Alcohol is like a thief in disguise. While you’re dancing your heart out, it slowly robs your body of water, emptying out electrolytes and consequently, leaving you dehydrated. Take it Slow! You have the whole night ahead of you, why not pace yourself? I’ve always preferred a slow and smooth come-up, compared to blinking and suddenly finding yourself more intoxicated than you’d bargained for. While it’s always better to count your drinks and cut yourself off when you’ve had enough, complete abstinence is a tough rule to live by… especially when Saturday nights tend to be worth the chaos. grated ginger, and a dash of lemon juice; the hug at the very least makes the guilt go away, I guarantee. THE PILL APPROACH Some options that you should readily find available at your pharmacy to kick your body right back into action: Fast&Up Reload Instant Electrolytes; Himalaya Here’s hoping that these tips and tricks will come in handy for you. Think of them as your weekend survival kit, helping you make it through the hangover haze and easing the crash before the Monday blues roll in. L Manasvi Kalra, a University of Massachusetts, Amherst graduate in journalism and economics, is a writer who is always down for matcha runs. PartySmart ®; Slip Slips Hangover Relief; Wild Foods Activated Charcoal Capsules; Hydrasalt Electrolyte Powder… If you’re still feeling like regret’s kicking in right as you’re looking at your first drink, here are some personal drink tips! Drink smarter, not harder, and your body will thank you for it. Hydration is key, key, key! Although this might be a little extreme, I try to sneak in a sip of water for every couple sips of any drink that I take. It helps without you even realizing it. Pro tip: Chug a glass of water, like you did that beer, before you sleep! Eat without guilt! That plate of pasta you’re probably contemplating the calories of might just help you the next morning. Lining your stomach before drinking is one of the better ways of reducing irritation from alcohol. Supper is always before the pilgrimage to the pub. Liquid 103

experience Soak, Don’t Sip Alcohol Experiences W hen we travel, enjoying local drinks is a priority on the bucket list and we tend to go the extra mile to find them. A crisp beer in Prague, a sangria in Barcelona, a warm sake in Tokyo — these indulgences Here are some places where you can soak in the alcohol — quite literally. BJÓRBÖÐIN BEER SPA, ICELAND root you to the place. But around the world, alcohol On a windswept corner of North Iceland, in the fishing is being poured in more unexpected ways: not just village of Árskógssandur, lies Bjórböðin – the country’s into glasses, but into baths. It is no longer about first dedicated beer spa. The experience begins with a intoxication, but immersion. A tactile way of letting private wooden tub carved from Kambala wood, filled hops, grapes, or rice sink into your skin. with warm water enriched with young, unfermented 104 Liquid

experience beer, live yeast, aromatic hops, and mineral salts. For thirty minutes, you sink into this frothy brew — the temperature is kept high enough to relax muscles, the surface carrying the aroma of beer in its infancy. The yeast is rich in B-vitamins and proteins, believed to nourish hair and soften skin; the hops, with their antioxidants, calm irritation and tighten pores. Once the soak is completed, guests are wrapped in silence for 20 minutes so the nutrients can continue working. Outside, hot tubs overlook the fjord, and fixed to each tub is a tap of Kaldi craft beer – so that you don’t miss sipping while you soak. AIRE ANCIENT BATHS, BARCELONA The wine therapy experience at AIRE begins with a slow circuit through thermal pools of varying Often, the most unforgettable part of travel isn’t what you taste, but what you feel. temperatures — a sequence that loosens the muscles and sharpens the senses to ready the body. From here, you move into a private chamber where a deep bath has been prepared with red wine concentrate and grapeseed oils. The polyphenols in the grapes, celebrated as powerful antioxidants, brighten the complexion and smoothen skin texture, while the oil is for deep hydration. During the soak, attendants apply a honey-infused cranial mask, which is a tribute to ancient beauty rituals. The treatment typically ends with a full-body massage using grapeseed oil, which has a faint fruity aroma. Guests are offered a glass of Spanish red wine — often a Matarromera — paired with cheese, making it a truly decadent experience. HAKONE KOWAKIEN YUNESSUN, JAPAN In the mountains of Hakone, Yunessun is an onsen unlike any other: part traditional hot spring and part theme park of unusual baths. Among its many pools — including green tea, coffee, and even red wine — the sake bath stands out. At scheduled times, attendants arrive carrying a wooden sake barrel, tipping its contents into the steaming water. The liquid clouds the pool, releasing the unmistakable fragrance of rice wine. Liquid 105

experience Sake was traditionally used to soften skin and brighten its tone. Its kojic acid is known to gently exfoliate and even work on pigmentation, while amino acids help hydrate. The experience here is half-spa, half-spectacle. It’s playful, almost theatrical, but also steeped in genuine wellness practice. Beyond Hakone, some ryokans (traditional Japanese inns) in Niigata — still offer smaller, more intimate sake baths, where the ritual feels closer to its traditional roots. GRAND VELAS RIVIERA NAYARIT, MEXICO Mexico’s native agave has long been a plant of ritual — harvested for food, fibre, and, of course, distilled into tequila. At the Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit, agave is reimagined as a full-body spa treatment. The experience begins with a tequila-infused foot bath, the warm water scented with citrus and herbs to cleanse and open the senses. After this, therapists use a blend of blue agave extract and tequila oil in a slow, rhythmic An agave-based body scrub follows, the fine sugars massage that is said to stimulate circulation and relax gently exfoliating to reveal smooth, supple skin. To deep muscle tension. close, a cooling mask of agave nectar and clay is applied, balancing the warming effect of the tequila It is no longer about intoxication, but immersion. A tactile way of letting hops, grapes, or rice sink into your skin. 106 Liquid oil. The experience is topped off with savouring some reposado tequila. L Navni Kumar is a writer and editor, an avid baker and a self-declared food and drink explorer who enjoys a well-crafted cocktail (preferably on the beach).

Does Wine Speak? AI Illustration: Sandeep Kaul wine Tasting as a Language I n its purest form, tasting is a dialogue between the wine, the person pouring it, and the one drinking has something to say, but in the way we’re not so used it. I grew up in India, a country where the language – it feels tense, like it’s holding back. A cool-climate changes every few hundred kilometres, and realised Chardonnay might speak in calm and measured that comprehension isn’t solely about words, but also tones, while a skin-contact Pinot Grigio often feels like the tone, intent, and presence. As a sommelier in it’s challenging you to pay closer attention. Australia, I find myself translating not just flavours but feelings across cultures, palates, and expectations. to hearing. A young Nebbiolo doesn’t just taste tannic WINE NEEDS TRANSLATION Each bottle of wine carries a message shaped by its Tasting wine isn’t just about identifying flavour notes or origin, its winemaker, and the season it was born. But guessing the region – it’s about listening. Every bottle the voice of the wine often needs help to be heard 108 Liquid

wine and that’s where someone like me steps in. Rather than reciting the whole fruit basket and oak notes, I’d say “imagine biting into a plum while sitting near a campfire.” I described a lean, electric, and precise Clare Valley Riesling with the line, “it’s like sipping lemonade on a hot day, but you forgot to add the sugar,” instead of sharing usual notes such as ‘high acid’ or ‘lime-driven’. The guest laughed but instantly understood. This kind of storytelling isn’t just fluff. Studies by Brochet and Dubourdieu show that expert tasters use what they call ‘mental prototypes’, not a checklist of aromas, but emotional and sensory imagery that captures a wine’s essence. Kristian Kielmayer’s work goes a step further, showing how wine language has always been shaped by culture and metaphor, not just chemistry. Elena Manca’s research found that wine language changes dramatically between cultures. What’s ‘muscular’ in one country might be ‘bold’ in another. A wine can’t be understood unless its story is told in a way that fits the listener’s world. translated, it connects the winemaker’s intent and the That’s why I adapt what I say based on who I’m drinker’s experience. speaking to. It’s not about sounding impressive but INTERPRETATION, NOT EVALUATION about building a bridge between what’s in the glass and who’s holding it. Because when wine is truly There’s a moment in service – just after I pour the wine in the guests’ glass, when I find myself watching them quietly with curious intent – to see their reaction to what the wine said to them. No scores or tasting notes, simply a look that tells me how it landed. For me, tasting isn’t an evaluation, it’s an interpretation. Of course, I was trained to break a wine down into acid, tannin, fruit, oak, and finish. But the more I spent time with wine, the more I realised that no one falls in love with acidity levels. It’s what the wine evokes that matters. Sometimes, a wine takes me back to peeling oranges with my grandmother in my ancestral home. Or to Wine is ‘a liquid geography’, turning landscapes and climates into something a guest can understand. Liquid 109

wine wet stone pathways of Puymirol in France. My guest stone, not ‘mineral-driven’. I won’t describe fruit notes doesn’t know those places, but I try to connect out of a textbook, I’ll say it reminds me of biting into my feelings with what they might know – that’s an a ripe guava in the market, or the tang of kokum (a interpretation. tropical evergreen tree, its fruit is used for its sweet Philosopher Barry Smith talks about this in ‘Questions of Taste’ – how tasting wine is more like listening to music or viewing art. Yes, a wine can be judged technically. But what we recall from that moment is the mood it created, how it spoke to us, what are our memories. and sour flavour). But when I’m working the floor in Adelaide, the vocabulary shifts. The descriptions become more architectural, more structured. This duality is something I carry every day. The wine in the glass is the same, but its meaning changes with the tongue that tells its story. Elena Manca’s research mirrors this, showing how Cain Todd also writes that tasting isn’t just about wine descriptors shift dramatically across cultures. preference, but about ‘trained perception’. That’s What makes sense in France might confuse in the why the more we taste, the more fluently we speak United Stated, not just because of translation, but the language of wine. But like any language, it only because of cultural framing. For instance, terms like matters if it’s understood and connects, which comes generous, sharp, or elegant can evoke wildly different through context. responses depending on the listener’s background. SPEAKING IN A MULTILINGUAL WORLD I’ve travelled a fair bit. I speak a few languages. The Even imagery we take for granted, like ‘forest floor’ or ‘wet stone’, may be completely unfamiliar to someone language of wine shifts, depending on where you are, who you’re with, and how you choose to speak it. Back home in India, when I describe wine in Marathi to someone I grew up with, I reach for different references. I say it feels like the first drops of rain hitting a warm 110 Liquid Tasting wine isn’t just about identifying flavour notes or guessing the region; it’s about listening.

wine who hasn’t grown up around those reference points. Manca highlights how tasting notes are often written with assumed cultural knowledge, which can create a gap between the writer and the reader, or between the sommelier and the guest. A STORY, NOT A DICTIONARY If there’s one thing I’ve learned on the floor, it’s that guests don’t come to decode. They come to feel. And most of the time, they don’t need a dictionary, they just need a story. I used to think I had to know the textbook by heart – malolactic fermentation, residual sugar, and diurnal shift… But I quickly realised that while I might find those details fascinating, my guests were asking different questions: what is this wine going to feel like? Will I enjoy it? Oz Clarke MW describes wine as ‘a liquid geography’ in his book, ‘New Wine Atlas’. This has stuck with me because the more I pour, the more I feel like I’m turning landscapes and climates into something a guest can understand better. When I pour a glass of Falanghina from Campania, I don’t elaborate fermentation. I tell them, “Imagine you’re on a beautiful beach, biting into ripe pear and apricot, with the Mediterranean does more than a flurry of tasting notes ever could – it Sea breeze lifting everything just slightly.” That image transports them to the Amalfi coast and to the heart of Campania. Rigid or overly coded language, especially when not rooted in the local culture, often alienates rather than inform. Words like ‘muscular’ or ‘brooding’ can be very confusing because they carry entirely different connotations across different continents. I once described a wine as ‘masculine’ – very common in the wine world. But my guest looked puzzled. “So... is it strong? Or just not for me?” I was reminded that people don’t come with a wine glossary in their back pocket. What they do come with is imagination, emotion, and experience. That’s why context and metaphors matter. It’s how we bridge the gap between what the wine is and what someone might feel. L Mayuresh Joshi, Head Sommelier Fugazzi Adelaide, is a Master in Wine Business, French Wine Scholar, Certified Sommelier and Champagne Specialist. Liquid 111

column Ruchira’s Pour Brussels, Shaken & Stirred AN OMAKASE AWAKENING AT DRAGON BAR Hidden on the mezzanine of Yi Chan restaurant, Dragon Bar is Yen Pham’s homage to Tokyo with a Brusselesque spin. Dragon is a tiny six-seater speakeasy – only for those in-the-know. Yen was travelling when I visited, but we were looked after by the effervescent Audrey who did a great job in her debut as the Dragon Mother. Every few months, Yen creates an exciting new drinks concept brimming with wild creativity, rooted in exquisite balance and a fantastic backstory. ‘Liquid storytelling’, is what he calls it. Chapter I. ‘Madeleine de Proust’, a literary metaphor from Marcel Proust’s novel was the liquid act on show, meaning ‘memory-triggering taste from childhood’. And so it was. Elemental memories magicked into liquid existence – Apple Tart Treat, Sea Spray, Snowflake – nostalgia manifested in each well-chosen vessel. Each sip proved to be a sensorial explosion. Every W elcome to Ruchira’s Pour – the very first – where flavour meets flair. Born and raised in India and a bona fide Londoner, I’m here to share unforgettable drinks moments and fabulous finds. Let’s raise a glass to bold tastes and vibrant stories ahead! BRUSSELS - THE NEW MIXOLOGY FRONTIER A dramatic statement, but very true! Brussels has been busy painting outside the usual cocktail lines. Forget those Belgian beer clichés, next-level cocktails are what’s in, made with the kind of restless creativity you’d expect in London or Tokyo, but without the corresponding price tag. Brussels is, comparatively, very affordable and an easy hop from pretty much anywhere in Europe (or beyond). So, this summer I nosedived into the Belgian capital’s bar circuit and am sharing a snippet of my experience. 112 Liquid

column Brussels offers next-level cocktails with London/Tokyo creativity at affordable prices, forgetting Belgian beer clichés. Indian knows that glorious smell of petrichor after the first rain – earthy, smoky, sweet – brought to life in the ‘Rain’ cocktail with beetroot, coconut and galangal. Or the sweet smell of autumn and its apple bounty in the ‘Apple Tart Treat’ with apples, butter, Koshu sake and Pedro Ximenez. Dragon’s Chapter III is, drumroll please, Fast Food!! Yes, you heard me. We’re talking burgers, pizzas, tacos et. al… in liquid form. Yen has somehow managed to distil a Big Mac amongst other such fares and I am, personally, desperate for a test drive and will be booking my Eurostar ticket this weekend… If you’re planning a European jaunt, get Brussels on your travel menu. @dragonbrussels FOX DEN: AROUND THE WORLD IN 20 DRINKS The second outing of Harouna Saou and Karoline Vik of ‘Life is Beautiful’ bar fame, Fox Den is a newbie on the Brussels bar circuit but designed as one where you never sip alone. Here, every seat is the best seat – you get to sit at the rather large bar counter and trade tasting notes with strangers who turn into new friends. For those of us who suffer from a serious case of wanderlust, this really is the place to be. The cocktail menu is a world tour where each cocktail mimics the essence of the country in question. Peruvian Pisco with Tomatillo & Chicha morada; a French riot of calvados, pastis, and peppery Dijon espuma, and – because Brussels loves a dare – Limoncello with parmesan, pomegranate and arugula representing Italy. Unsurprisingly, I had to see what ‘India’ tasted like – Turmeric, Chai cordial, coconut cream and lemon – a delightful concoction of spicy creaminess served in an earthen cup. Yum. Each drink earns you a stamp on the Fox Den cocktail passport with drinks on the house once you’ve travelled the world. If you want a riff on something classic, the bartenders happily improvise. Fox Den’s spirit is community, and every night is an invitation to the table. @foxden_cocktailbar So, that was my pour. If you think you know Brussels, you don’t. And if you like your cocktails clever, weird, or wonderful, Brussels is where you want to be sipping right now. Until the next pour! L The ‘India’ taste Ruchira Neotia DipWSET, founder of Ruchira’s Table, is a London based drinks consultant, writer and in UK’s Top 100 Drinks Influencers. Liquid 113

wine The Liquid Muse F or as long as humans have gathered, they have poured, shared and drunk together. Wine and its kin have always been more than drink. Across art history, they have symbolised both the divine and the dangerous: an emblem of joy, communion and surrender. To study the painted cup, jug or chalice is to trace civilization’s emotional history in liquid form. Vincent van Gogh, ‘The Red Vineyard’, 1888 – it becomes the protagonist: a medium through which painters have explored what it means to taste life. Turners, Dürers, or Bellinis Do not spring from dry Martinis. Goya’s genius, Rubens’ powers Did not stem from whiskey sours. Fumy brandies, potent ciders From Bacchus’ vine to Christ’s chalice, from Caravaggio’s Make no Holbeins, make no Ryders. goblet to Velázquez’s amphora, the drink is muse and Alcohol’s ingurgitation mirror – a symbol of mortality and miracle alike. In the Is, in short, no substitution hands of great artists, wine ceases to be background For creative inspiration 114 Liquid

wine Or artistic execution. Bacchus to explore pleasure, faith, and mortality. Later, Guzzle vino Dutch and English artists turned taverns into theatres of Till you’re blotto laughter and moral warning. Splotches will remain but splotches. Perugino, Ingres, Giotto Were not born of double Scotches… Across ages, wine has remained an artistic constant with symbol, substance, and subject. The three masterpieces below, each reveal how wine, whether sacred or profane, When humourist Arthur Kramer published ‘Homily for Art speaks of desire, transformation, and the fleeting Students’ in The New Yorker in 1946, he playfully warned intoxication of being alive. that no Martini ever made a Turner and no Whisky Sour ever birthed a Giotto, yet conceded that total sobriety wouldn’t either. His jest captured the paradox that has haunted studios and taverns for centuries: alcohol as both liberation and crutch, communion and undoing. THE TRIUMPH OF BACCHUS – DIEGO VELÁZQUEZ (1628-29) Wine as equality, inspiration, and divine fellowship. Velázquez elevates wine from intoxicant to an emblem of human communion. The scene appears humble – a god From ancient Greece to modern ateliers, the drink has carried mythic resonance. The ancients celebrated Dionysus as God of Transformation, where grapes became wine and mortals, for a moment, became divine. The Renaissance reinterpreted these myths, with To study the painted cup, jug, or chalice is to trace civilization’s emotional history in liquid form. painters like Titian, Michelangelo, and Caravaggio using The Triumph of Bacchus Liquid 115

wine The Last Supper seated among peasants – but its message is profound. and emotion, but its true heart lies in the cup. The wine Bacchus, glowing against his followers’ sun-worn on that table is not merely vintage: it is all – covenant, faces, offers not mere drink but an awakening. The ivy essence, and exchange. When Christ lifts the chalice, crown (not grapes, notably) he places on a man’s head wine becomes a language – its crimson hue signifying symbolises poetic inspiration – ‘the creative spark’ born both nourishment and sacrifice. from shared intoxication. The apostles’ shock at the announcement of betrayal Here, wine is democracy in liquid form. Bacchus’ cup is mirrored by the unsettled stillness of the wine. In Da and the peasants’ clay jugs unite labourers and divinities Vinci’s hands, the drink is both symbol and substance: by the same pour. Wine becomes the equaliser, the pressed from crushed fruit, transformed by time, and philosopher’s stone of the everyday, turning sweat into offered as salvation – it embodies the cycle of death grace and conversation into art. Velázquez’s Spain and renewal, echoing the vineyard’s rhythm. For the distrusted drunkenness, yet the painter shows dignity gourmet mind, this is the moment when drink becomes and fellowship in drink. ceremony, where sustenance turns sacramental. For the oenophile, this is an allegory of balance. The still Da Vinci’s use of ordinary fare, coarse bread and wine in Bacchus’ glass reflects that brief perfection when communal cups reminds us that meaning requires no the chaos of fermentation yields harmony. The divine excess. The meal’s simplicity deepens its universality. radiance is wine’s own transformative light. Velázquez The wine’s glow, faint yet resolute, suggests a divine suggests that to drink is to participate in creation itself, that every toast is a momentary triumph over toil, presence within material pleasure. hierarchy, and time. THE LAST SUPPER – LEONARDO DA VINCI (1495-98) Wine as revelation, sacrifice, and shared transformation. The Last Supper is often remembered for its geometry 116 Liquid Wine becomes democracy in liquid form, uniting labourers and divinities by the same pour.

wine The experimental medium, oil and tempera on dry plaster, mirrors wine’s fragility: beautiful, unstable, always at risk of fading. Yet, like a bottle opened at the right hour, it reveals its depth precisely because it will not last. In The Last Supper, wine is a revelation itself, the Blood of Christ: truth emerging through taste and community forged through the act of sharing. BACCHUS – CARAVAGGIO (C. 1596) Wine as seduction, mortality, and the art of surrender. Bacchus is an intimate study of temptation, not of the flesh alone, but of the senses. The wine god leans forward, offering a goblet that glows like an enchanted living ruby and in that gesture lies the essence of the beverage: an invitation to dissolve boundaries, to taste the ephemeral. Christ’s chalice The youth’s gaze is not divine command but human The fruits surrounding the wine god tell a deeper enticement. Wine here is knowledge veiled in pleasure, truth. Grapes begin to wrinkle, apples bruise, and pomegranates bleed open – reminders that every act of creation involves decay. Fermentation, like art, is controlled ruin: what dies becomes sublime. Wine, the understanding that surrender can be wisdom. The reflection of the artist in the carafe transforms the painting into a self-portrait of process: Caravaggio, like the vintner, transforms base matter into spirit through poised between vitality and rot, embodies the very labour and risk. tension Caravaggio paints in light and shadow. The black ribbon at Bacchus’ waist is part adornment, part memento and functions like tannins in a grand wine, structure beneath seduction. What Caravaggio offers is not intoxication but awareness: that beauty and mortality share the same cup. To drink is to accept impermanence; to savour it is to live artfully. EPILOGUE: THE ETERNAL GLASS Across centuries, artists have painted wine as muse, medium, and mirror. In Bacchus’ laughter, in Christ’s chalice, in Caravaggio’s shadowed goblet, drink becomes the grammar of existence expressing joy, mortality, and transcendence with equal measure. For the lovers of wine and art, these images remind us that every glass raised is more than indulgence. It is participation in a ritual older than language: the transformation of earth into spirit, of labour into pleasure, of the fleeting into the eternal. L Bacchus Jiaan Kris Jamshyd Lam, a hotelier with a Master’s from ESSEC Paris, loves music, travel, and global cultures. Xenia Jamshyd Lam, a hotelier with a Master’s in Gastronomy from Italy, blends her love for travel, cooking, and art. Liquid 117